Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Gemma Rasmussen
WELCOME TO FLURO
gemma@fluromag.com ISSUE 2: THE RAG TRADE
CO-EDITOR September 17th-23rd; the only week in which New Zealand is
Courtney Sanders set-upon by the fashion crowd. Issue Two, ‘The Rag Trade’ profiles
courtney@fluromag.com our fashion icons; from leading, established designers Nom D,
FASHION EDITOR Miss Crabb and Des Rusk to fashion icons of the future Two White
Chris Duncan Buddies, Involved, Another Boy and Bird, to gain an insight into
chris@fluromag.com the minds of those creating the look for the week. Ex-Wellington,
FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER Australian based illustrator Jason Lingard demonises the models
Rebecca Ambler in our photo shoots creating a creepy zombie like vibe that fits in
surprisingly well with the profiled labels and we were lucky enough
ART DIRECTION & DESIGN
Jay Johnson
to have talented local artist Kelly Thompson illustrate our cover. We
jay@fluromag.com wanted to represent more than just the throwaway culture of buying
and selling clothing, rather the way in which it is a cultural signifier
CONTRIBUTORS
of our times. Aside from fashion we profile two Wellington bands
Kelly Thompson
kellythompson.co.nz Fighting the Shakes and Little Pictures releasing EP’s this month,
Jason Lingard check our website for tour dates.
killdesign.com
Enjoy!
PRINTER
Lithoprint Ltd. Chris, Courtney, Gemma and Jay.
service@lithoprint.co.nz
COLOUR CONTENTS
Pantone 812C
0002..................................................................Welcome!
TYPEFACE 0004..........................................................Op Shop Finds
Oragasm, Fluro Custom 0008....................................................... Up and Comers:
Bird Clothing
CONTACT
Two White Buddies
contact@fluromag.com
myspace.com/fluromag Involved
www.fluromag.com Another Boy
0016................ Women of your Dreams - Kelly Thompson
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES 0018......................................................... The Rag Trade:
Sam Flaherty Miss Crabb
sam@fluromag.com Nom* D
Des Rusk
All material Copyright
FLURO Magazine
0028........................ Fighting the Shakes & Little Pictures
2007 0030.................................................................... Mixtape
Please Recycle
Dont throw me away, THANKS!
show your friends!
Special thanks to all the featured artists, Huge thanks to Jason for
the amazing images, Kelly for the awesome cover art, Bridget from
Ruby for the party, Jeane from Shock records, Sam, Rich & Sally
from Mighty Mighty, Rod and Kristina from Epic for the humour
and the shots, Margie from Nom*D, Kristine and Katie from Miss
Crabb, Des Rusk, Trav and Jo from Involved, Two White Buddies,
Mic and Sean from Material Boy, Kylie from Bird, Fighting the
Shakes, Little Pictures and all our friends and family for chewing
through the tab in record time.
~Gemma Rasmussen presents~
MEN AT SEA
What’s the deal with paint by numbers anyway?
Everyone knows that it’s not real art. It makes painting
as methodical as algebra, which is horrific and just
plain wrong. So, you buy one and open up the little
paint pottles but there isn’t enough paint to finish
the painting, which is annoying because you have no
other ‘poolside blue’ available. Either that or they are
as dry as the Sahara desert and when you try to mix it
with water it turns to clumpy lumps of unpaintability.
When I stumbled upon ‘Men at Sea’ I was pleased as
I fast tracked my way past all that anxiety and arrived
at the glorious final stage, wall hanging. Always fun to
display because people think you are proud of your
‘masterpiece’. Purchased at Feilding’s Salvation Army
for $1 it’s worth every cent.
0004
~Gemma Rasmussen presents~
FRIAR TUCK
I found this chubby man with his rosy cheeks and
brown tunic quite lovely and envisioned him residing
quite happily amongst my knick-knacks. Imagine my
surprise and delight upon the discovery that the Friar
has a detachable head and was in fact made for the
purpose of storing alcohol. No wonder he looked so
merry and his cheeks had a rosy glow. Taking him to
parties you would be unchallenged in having the best
drinking vessel on premises. If you were an alcoholic in
detox he would prove to be your final saviour. If you’re
just not that into alcohol you could go for a casual
jog around the block and fill him up with some thirst
quenching water. There is the unfortunate risk factor
that Friar Tuck’s is highly breakable so if all else fails he
makes a beautiful display piece. $3 at Petone Salvation
army he’s better looking than any beer jug I’ve ever seen.
CARTOON COUTURE
Feel the need to look utterly ridiculous? Fear not, I have
the answer. You can put away the MC Hammer pants
and fish net bra. Once you’ve worn this gorgeous silver
top you’ll be grabbing attention en masse. Never been
famous? Just pop on this top. People may ask for your
autograph, or perhaps to pose for a photo. Take it in
your stride. Perfect for a night out on Courtney Place
you can bump and grind to J.T’s ‘Sexy Back’ knowing
the song was written about you. Just team with leggings
and heels and you’ll be so hot right now. The talk of the
town, literally. First date? Please wear it. I feel this top is
perfect for pretty much any event. Whether it’s a picnic,
disco or your wedding you’ll be ahead of the times and
truly unforgettable. Purchased for $3 at the Petone
Salvation Army it’s the steal of the century.
0006
~Courtney Sanders~
I read an article recently about a London collective – is always good…Pocket money (Rosie, Mailee and me)
three young art directors-slash-fashion designers-slash have done every DUMB so far and they are always a crowd
everything-creative-under-the-sun – who were embarking fave. We also do a radio show on George FM now that they
on another venture which actually happened to be a rave nicely asked us to do.”
zine called SuperSuper with CassettePlaya designer Carri
As in London, so in Auckland. McKenzie, successful DJ
Munden. Whether this pro-active philosophy is a result
night under belt, also re-launched her visually creative side
of Generation Y’s distaste for authority or MDMA usage
this year in the form of Bird Clothing.
is unclear, but Auckland creative extraordinaire Kylie
McKenzie, A.K.A Bird clothing and curator of It’s Time To “I started Bird in my final year of studying graphic design,
Get Dumb (I.T.T.G.D) DJ night is certainly New Zealand’s then wore my designs around and my friends all loved them.
foremost proponent. NZ designer Adrian Hailwood loved them and asked me to
put some in his Auckland shop.” Influenced by “millions of
“I don’t like 90% of New Zealand bands so it’s hard for me
different things” (the list that accompanied that quote was
to go out to gigs every week and have fun! That’s why we
indeed lengthy) McKenzie “wants to mix everything up –
started I.T.T.G.D – out of boredom and having nowhere
appearance, art, literature, music, colours, shapes, patterns.”
we could go out and dance all night!” I.T.T.G.D is run by
The result is a line of well-considered, unique, covetable tees
Kylie and fellow fashionistas Alex Le Feuvre, Chris Lorimer
that scream of extremely late, loud, bright nights – prints
(Mint Condition PR) and James Dobson (of label Jimmy
reflected in a mirror-ball across a smoke-machine filled
D) and, for only having had four outings in the city, has
dance floor, probably at I.T.T.G.D.
built up a devout following. “The night’s have been going
really well! People are loving it and they come and dress Bird is stocked in Saturday Shop, Hailwood, Stenbeck and
up and dance all night…we have lots of amazing friends Morse (Auckland), Artikel (Wellington) and Dirt Box
that are into the same music and ideas of fun so the music (Australia).
www.myspace.com/a_castle_in_the_sky
How are you different to clothing labels both nationally and Have you found working on clothing in your store to be
internationally? positive experience?
It is art and crafts as well as fashion and design, so we’re not Yep, people like to watch it coming together and all the
a big machine pumping out products that all look the same. ‘missed a spots’ get to put their bit in.
each piece is hand-printed. Each stencil hand cut. We cut What do you want your customers to know about Involved?
our hands cutting stencils. There’s a lot of love and blood Involved is a product of doing something the way people
goin on in each garment. Thats how we get the red prints, think it not supposed to be done. But what we’re doing is
lots of love and blood. working. Try it with your own thing, risk it cos there’s only
What’s your favourite piece of clothing from the range at this life to get involved.
the mo? And now for some more personal questions:
I really like the new shorts we’re developing for summer. Stuck on a desert island what 3 things would you take?
They’re this lo-crotch cloth thing with wrap around pockets Rebeccah (Fiancee), a long board so we could both ride
that just makes you want to go surfing so you can throw waves at the same time, and a super 8 with lots of film.
them on and lie on the dunes after you’ve done carving out
some sweet lines. If you were a super hero would you choose invisibility or
x-ray vision?
What are your thoughts on New Zealand fashion week and/ Invisibility. Its pretty much a combo of both, but you don’t
or the New Zealand fashion industry? have to wear the x-ray glasses. I hate x-ray glasses.
I think that fashion week is an important part of showcasing
that part of our fashion industry to NZ and the world. I www.involved.co.nz | www.myspace.com/involvednz
The Stencilship: Shop 29, Upstairs St Kevins
Arcade, 179 K Rd Newton, Auckland
0012 UP AND COMERS: INVOLVED
~Gemma Rasmussen~ hoodies the clothing is more casual and surf orientated than
predecessor Material boy, and a welcome change to the sea
of mass produced surf clothing labels with logos splattered
Australian designer Mic Eaton is blowing minds with mindlessly in every available space. With much working
clothing label ‘Material Boy’ but the fun doesn’t end time spent in Bali as well as Australia it is little wonder his
there. With the introduction of diffusion line ‘Another clothing is so freshly inspired.
Boy’ there are more great clothes to get excited about.
Mic decided to create Another Boy to enable him to
Mic describes Another Boy as “a little more street, easier channel inspiration into a new collection as well as give
to wear (for some) and less offensive” than Material Boy. a new audience great clothes to wear. The lesser known
While still retaining glorious amounts of individuality and of the two labels ‘Another Boy’ is a little like ‘Material
eccentricity the pieces from Another Boy are more urban Boys amazing little brother who doesn’t steal his style but
in style. reinterprets it into a exciting and fun new direction. Sure to
raise your grandma’s eyebrows at Christmas time with your
With slim fits the pieces can be worn by girls as well, but
‘new fangled clothes’ Eaton’s creations are not made for
whoever the wearer the clothes are sure to turn heads and
those who wish to fade into the background. Instead they
retain a strong sense of identity. This can put down to the
bring an exciting punch to a sometimes, tentative fashion
heavy applications of futuristic patterns and amazing colour.
industry. It seems however this eccentric new injection of
Each piece is good enough to slap on and transform any
clothing is making both the fashion industry and public
old outfit due to the dazzling X factor that so many clothing
stand up and take notice, and with the successes of Material
pieces these days seem to lack. Formally a pro surfer, until
Boy it can be certain that Another Boy is not far in tow.
injury took its toll Mic has an understanding that clothes
are not just for looking good but need to be functional
and well fitting. With board shorts, t-shirts and oversized www.materialboy.com.au | www.myspace.com/yeahboiii
Effortless luxury. The clothing of Miss Crabb can be to women of many different tastes, age groups and body
summed up quite perfectly into those two words. With a shapes. There is a real element of adventure to the clothing
unique twist of clothing Miss Crabb offers ladies the chance without taking it to the dreaded costume hire level. I get the
to wear elegant, modern and a tad risque clothing. When sense that Kristine Crabb wants women to have fun with
young girls dress up in their mothers clothes on Sunday the way they dress and feel free to dabble and experiment
afternoons and imagine their future selves in a sophisticated with various looks without fear. This for many woman (and
manner Miss Crabb’s clothing probably isn’t far from the men) a challenge especially when we get stuck in the rut of
fantasy. throwing the same clothes on day in day out and not being
particularly excited or proud about the way they look. Miss
After graduating from Wanganui, Kristine Crabb made the
Crabb gives a gentle nudge in the right direction and if
move to the big smoke of Auckland and opened ‘Rip Shit
anything, inspires.
and Bust’ Fashion Gallery on K Road selling both friends
and her own clothes. Come 2005 she began focusing on her The collection dabbles in bright colour as well as manda-
own individual label hence the birth of ‘Miss Crabb’ which tory shades of black but stays away from anything on the
can now be found in her store on Ponsonby Road. With dull side. Using luxurious fabrics and challenging the
a lot of attention going into each piece there are smaller conventional cut and shape of dresses, tops, coats and skirts
runs of clothing and even one off pieces allowing you to the materials used drape elegantly from the body and with
throw away fears of turning up to a party in a dress identical the mere addition of a belt to any given piece an outfit is
to four other party goers. It seems Miss Crabb has a very transformed. There is an element of interpretation to each
distinct personality and is largely unaffected to the fashion piece of clothing allowing the wearer to play around with
circus that continues around her, allowing clothing pieces their outfit until they find a way of wearing that suits their
to be relevant and original season after season, rather than own style.
passing with the trends. Staying true to an artistic individual
If anything Miss Crabb inspires women to take risks in fash-
approach is crucial to Kristine Crabb’s ideals with collabora-
ion and try new colours, cuts and styles while retaining their
tions from other artists such as Maiangi Waita of ‘Who is
own taste and sense of individuality. The fine line between
Dead Martin?’ allowing for fresh inspiration and exciting
innovative originality and recycled imitation is a tricky one,
influences to reach the clothing collection.
but it seems Miss Crabb stays on the right side.
Looking through Miss Crabbs collections it is obvious
Also look out for Kristines’ design assistant, Kate Megaws’
that each piece of clothing is open to interpretation and
up and coming label ‘Penny Sage’
does not have to be worn a specific way thus appealing Him:Des Rusk Shirt and Trousers, Nom*D Waistcoat.
Her:Miss Crabb Dress.
misscrabb.com
0018 THE RAG TRADE: MISS CRABB THE RAG TRADE 0019
Him: Des Rusk Singlet & Parka, Nom*D Him: Des Rusk Shirt & Trousers, Vintage gloves @
Eyelet Vest, Jeans and Shoes Models own. Ziggurat, Jacket & Shoes Models own.
Her: Miss Crabb Dress, Shoes Models own. Her: Miss Crabb Dress, Vintage Gloves @ Ziggurat
STYLIST: Chris Duncan “The plan from here is keep building the label and growing
PHOTOGRAPHER: Rebecca Ambler at a sustainable rate. I’ve new buyers in New Zealand who
MANIPULATOR: Jason Lingard - killdesign.com want to view Winter 2008 and I’ve picked up an Australian
MODELS: James Houston & Nina Symons-Rusbatch agent who will be representing me from next season which
Him: Nom*D Tshirt, Des Rusk Hooded Vest and
Ziggurat: 144 Cuba St, Wellington 04 385 1077 will be great, so am looking forward to growing the business Trousers, Shoes Models own.
For all other stockist enquiries see designers websites. both here and in Australia.” Her:Miss Crabb Bomber Jacket, Nom*D Dress, Vintage
Gloves and Necklace @ Ziggurat, Shoes Models own.
www.desrusk.com
0024 THE RAG TRADE: DES RUSK THE RAG TRADE 0025
Him: Nom*D Vest, Vintage Gloves @ Ziggurat, Jeans &
Shoes Models own.
Her: Nom*D Dress & House Coat, Vintage Necklace and
Gloves @ Ziggurat, Shoes Models own.
There is one obvious characteristic that identifies a Fight- I couldn’t really pinpoint it.” Explaining the balancing act
ing the Shakes live show; the immediacy of their sound. The between heavy, noise-rock and the lyrically strong, melodic-
band are capable of straddling the line between in-your-face, ish tracks scattered through their live sets and EP Jayesh
everything-all-at-once punk and well developed, angular notes; “every week I’ll be listening to lots of different things.
post-punk, the result being an intrusive, intense but highly Lately it’s been lots of Motown and Stax as well as TV on
listenable live experience. And now they’ve bottled it - the Radio. I’m working more on melody and making a song
finally. The first release from the trio (guitarist Jayesh Ravla, fit together rather than just having heaps of crazy parts for
“All My Friends Are Electric”
www.myspace.com/fightingtheshakes
bassist Hadlee Donaldson and drummer Chet Parbhu), All the sake of a song being messed up.”
My Friends Are Electric was a “long iterative process because
Since day one, Fighting the Shakes have been invited to
we kept coming to a certain part and rerecording them.
play with the foremost bands in New Zealand post-punk.
Trying to capture the way we wanted to sound was difficult
“Being asked to play This Night Creeps last ever show – and
since we hadn’t done any proper recording or production
it was with The Mint Chicks too – was pretty amazing.” In
before.” The result is a collection of six tracks that demon-
terms of touring, “going to Auckland for three weekends in
strate Fighting the Shakes songwriting capabilities as well as
a row back in May was probably my favourite tour, if you
their live potential.
can call it that. We managed to pretty much go through the
The title and theme were unintentional: “the EP is titled highs and lows of playing a tour, such as playing to an ap-
All My Friends Are Electric after one of our songs that didn’t preciate crowd at the BFM new band showcase (which they
end up making the cut”, notes bassist Hadlee Donaldson. headlined) meeting nice people and putting 91 into a diesel
Guitarist Jayesh Ravla notes the ideas for their songs and van. We had to also work full time jobs during the weeks
lyrics “refer to little anecdotes about certain situations or through the tour so it was exhausting but I think it was a
observations we have made in our daily lives.” And the credit to everyone else in the band that we actually held it
immediacy thing arises again; this unbound directness and together for that month.”
energy that is not only obvious in their live performance
So what’s next? “We don’t have any set plans just yet. I
but comes across both in the title and the directness of the
think playing music can be unpredictable and you never
songs on the EP.
know what is going to happen next.” Hardworking and
The band cite natural influences; “in the early days, it’d be determined, with a unique racket to boot, Fighting the
fair to say At the Drive-In and The Mint Chicks were pretty Shakes might just find they have something electric on their
big influences, but over time its gotten to the point where hands too.
If a bunch of juvenille delinquints (in the Weasley twin Architecture in Helsinki’s Places Like This is a middle-
(from Harry Potter, of course) mischeif making type aged date that starts out all teenage awkwardness and
way) were forced to attend a band camp slash musical turns into a riotously debaucherous affair. Cameron
retreat to sort out their attitude problems and were left Bird’s vocals tremor somewhere between muppet-
together in a room full of trumpets, keyboards, and com- esque screamo-pop and sumptuous soundscapism,
puters, with one particularly loud and outspoken (again, complementing his female compatriot perfectly, and
in the best possible way) black girl, the result would when singing lines like “the blood keeps flowing to your
resemble something like The Go Team’s Proof of Youth. hea-ah-ah, yah-yah-yah” personifies the tumultuousness
of many a dating scenario.
Although 2004’s Thunder, Lightening, Strike was com-
pelling and fun, it was effectively entirely the work of the Track three “Hold Music” is a mainstream crossover,
groups’ musical mastermind Ian Parton, and as a result all anthemic choruses and trumpets, while “Debbie”
lacked, well, the team spirit that this effort encom- continues the bands destruction of obvious composi-
passes. The members, particularly vocalist Ninja, have tions. More subtle tracks like “Underwater” demonstrate
really flexed their muscles and the result is the musical the capability of Architecture in Helsinki to stretch their
equivalent of bottled enthusiasm – Proof of Youth is the sound into often ominous ballad territory, and “Like it
school cheerleading team, only wasted and cheering for or not” bongo drum’s its way into some sort of teenage-
far more powerful things than the football team. angst African dance party.
Like their previous hit track, Places Like This does the
whirlwind on the boy-meet-girl, girl-breaks-up-with-
girl, girl-and-boy-find each other again plotline, and
concludes happily married, or at least in some sort of
Cheers for the beers (C.D.’s)
www.myspace.com/shockrecordsnz psychedelic dysfunctional de-facto relationship.
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