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Hamilakis, Yannis. "Eating the dead: mortuary feasting and the politics of memory in the
Aegean bronze age societies", from Branigan, K. (1998) Cemetery and society in the
Aegean bronze age. Sheffield: Sheffield Academic Press, pp.115-132.

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OF 220 BRA
8
Eating the Dead: Mortuary Feasting and the
Politics of Memory in the Aegean Bronze Age
Societies
Yannis Hamilakis

Introduction Eating, Dying, and the Memory of the


Body
What I am hoping to do in this paper is first,
to investigate the social meaning of food There is now a growing body of literature in
and drink consumption in a mortuary con- anthropology which shows that in peoples'
text and secondly, in the light of that mean- cosmologies and perceptions, eating and
ing to look at some of the Bronze Age dying, food and death are closely con-
Aegean evidence and attempt to produce nected, both homologically and antitheti-
some alternative stories on dying (or din- cally. Humans are consumed by death,
ing?) in the Aegean during the Bronze Age. I vanish as does food and drink consumed in
therefore hope to use the Aegean data more a mortuary context. Eating and digestion,
as a case study within a more widely rele- therefore, is a metaphor for death (cf. Foster
vant framework, rather than as the main 1990; Parry 1985). Moreover, during food
theme of the paper. In other words, my consumption humans do not simply con-
rather optimistic venture could be also read sume food, they are at the same time con-
as an implicit statement on what I think we sumed, are incorporated within a
should be doing with Aegean data. community: food acqUires an active role in
I am not a specialist in mortuary archaeol- embodying humans within a social group
ogy (if there is such a thing) and my excuse which is defined by commensality (Fischler
for participating in this volume, together 1988: 281). The homology, however, works
with people who have spent many years at another level, as well: as Foster put it with
studying burial eVidence, in the hope that I reference to practices and stories in New
might have something to contribute, has to Ireland, 'being fed is logically eqUivalent to
do first, with the fact that recently, while being cannibalized' (1990: 439). Eating
doing other research, I have re-discovered incorporates an aggressive element and to
how fascinating Aegean mortuary data are, feed others and at the same time abstain
and secondly, with my long-term interest on from eating, is to exercise control not only
and engagement with the anthropology over your body but also over the bodies of
and archaeology of food and drink con- others, since you reduce them to passive
sumption. I therefore thought that it would consumers-consumables. The cultural logic
be potentially interesting to try and marry of eating, therefore, is close to the cultural
the two. logic of death in many ways.
116 Yannis Hamilakis

The two phenomena are also connected to reify human agency and its embodied
as oppositions. Let me elaborate on this: it is properties (e.g. Meskell 1996; Yates 1993).
now commonplace in anthropology and While the archaeology of embodiment is
social theory that food and drink consump- still a project to be developed, it is becom-
tion does not simply sustain life in the bio- ing more widely acknowledged that we
logical sense, it does not simply make should try and comprehend humans in the
humans biologically. It also makes humans past as embodied social relationships, with
sOcially (cf. from a rapidly growing litera- sensory and emotive properties (e.g. Tarlow
tureAppadurai 1981; Falk 1994; Curtin and 1997). In other words, to think in terms of
Heldke 1992; Lupton 1996; Fischler 1988; what can be called somatic modes of being
Caplan 1994; Sherratt 1995; Hamilakis in and attending to the world (Seremetakis
1995, in press). In contrast to the dominant 1994; Falk 1994; Shilling 1993; Csordas
western perceptions which see humans as 1990,1993).
bounded individual entities in opposition to Still, however, I cannot claim that I have
the world of material things which are con- satisfactorily demonstrated the social role
sumed by humans in an objectified manner, and meaning of eating and drinking in a
it is now clear from many studies that in mortuary context. That missing link is, I
many societies' cosmologies such a rigid think, provided by a rich body of ethnogra-
separation between humans and things (in phy especially from Melanesia. I am talking
this case food) simply does not exist about the work of Munn (1986), Kuchler
(Appadurai 1986; Miller 1987, 1995a, (1987, 1988), and especially, Eves (1996)
1995b). Humans as social entities make and Battaglia (1990). It is well known that
themselves through the consumption of mortuary ceremonies are one of the most
food and drink. They construct themselves important institutions in Melanesian soci-
as social persons through eating and drink- eties, and the above researchers have
ing. If, therefore, eating and drinking makes shown that mortuary feasting has to do
humans biologically and SOcially, death with a process crucial in the constitution of
runs in the opposite direction, unmaking social life in these societies: the construc-
humans as bodies and as social persons. tion of memory and forgetting. It is now
In addition to this homological and anti- more or less generally accepted that mem-
thetical connection, however, there is ory is a social rather than an individual pro-
another closely related link: in both cases cess and that all memory is collective
the locus of social action, the arena in memory, is structured by group identities
which humans are made and unmade is the (Halbwachs 1980; Fentress and Wickham
human body, or to put it in another more 1992). Memory should not be treated as a
. constructive way, the condition of human passive container of experience but as an
embodiment. Parenthetically, let me just active process of recording, retaining,
note that it is only very recently that some restructuring, suppressing and erasing
archaeological writings, following the resur- (Connerton 1989; Fentress and Wickham
rection of interest on the body in the social 1992; Melion and Kuchler 1991). I must
sciences in general, have started exploring also stress that I am mostly talking here
the issue of embodiment. They attempt to about incorporating mnemonic practices, as
go beyond the Foucaultian notions of the defined by Connelton (1989), as opposed to
body as instrument and passive object of inscribing practices such as textual, icono-
suppressive power (e.g. Foucault 1979) and graphic, artefactual, and monumental rep-
Eating the Dead 11 7

resentations. Incorporating mnemonic prac- monies are also about social forgetting,
tices may include some inscribing practices about 'finishing' or 'killing' the memory,
(such as the use of iconography or artefacts) where the social relationships with the
but they mainly involve performative cere- deceased are severed and new relationships
monies which generate bodily sensory and with the living are initiated. The dead are
emotional experiences, resulting in habitual finished as social persons since they cease
memory being sedimented in the body. to participate in the networks of exchange,
Food and drink consumption is the classic sharing and commensality which define
and most obvious case in point. Even if we and construct sociality. What is 'killed' is
did not have the ethnography, we would not the memory of the person itself, but the
only need the much quoted passage from memory of the social person as player and
Marcel Proust, where the madeleine cakes participant in the construction of social
were enough to evoke and awake the experience. The 'killing' of memory leaves a
senses and create sensory memory in a 'positively valued negative space' (Battaglia
synaesthetic manner, where one sense is 1990: 196) which can be filled with the new
stored in another (Seremetakis 1994; Sutton social relationships. Mortuary feasting,
1997), leading to the recollection of the therefore, is a mode of generalised con-
pieces of a fragmented past: sumption, where food, bodies, persons and
And suddenly the memory came back to me. memories are consumed. In MelaneSia, this
The taste was that of the little piece of involves in addition to the consumption of
madeleine cake which one Sunday morning food, the consumption of objects such as
at Cambray ... when I had gone to her room to axes, which like food, vanish in the commu-
say good morning to her, my aunt Leonie had nity; they are taken away by the partici-
offered to me after dipping it in her lime- pants without any obligation for reciprocity.
flower tea. The sight of the petite madeleine Together with food, they fonn a 'corpse'
cake had not reminded me of this before I had which has been accumulated with the sole
tasted it ... But when, out of a former past,
aim to be consumed (Battaglia 1990). I
nothing any longer remains, after the death of
humans, the destruction of things, alone,
would also argue that the Widely recorded
frailer but more alive, more immaterial, more practice of metaphorical or literal endocan-
perSistent, more faithful, the smell and the nibalism, the eating of the dead body, either
taste still remain for a long time, like souls, to part of the flesh, or the pounded bones, in
be recalled, to wait, to hope, on the ruin of many cases has to do with the 'killing', the
everything else, to carry without yielding, on erasing of memory. This is the reason given
this almost impalpable droplet, the immense by Amahuaca Indian in the Andes for the
edifice of memory (Proust 1987: 46 cited in practice for en do cannibalism (Dole 1962):
Caplan 1994, her translation). Amahuaca consume the pulverised bones
If incorporated practices such as eating of the deceased and drink its ashes in 'an
and drinking have such a mnemonic power, attempt to banish the spirit ... to forget the
these same practices in a mortuary context, dead' (Dole 1962: 570; for similar meanings
where the emotions and sensory stimula- attributed to metaphorical endocannibal-
tions generated by food are combined with ism see Young 1989: 197-98).
those generated by the embodied experi- The processes of remembering and for-
ence of death, a much more powerful getting in a m0l1uary context, however, do
mnemonic device would be produced. But not focus only on the dead. The ceremonies
the Melanesian data show that these cere- and the rituals themselves become impor-
118 Yannis Hamilakis

tant additional parameters (Eves 1996). The utilised in the poetics and politics of social
embodied practices of eating and drinking contestation. Mortuary ceremonies due to
will evoke to the participants memories of their emotive force, have the ability to bring
other similar events and naturally, a process together people from different social groups
of comparison will come into play. Through who do not usually interact in other social
the selective process of remembering and contexts or may even have been opponents
forgetting, previous occasions of mortuary (cf. Parkin 1972: 77): such interaction
feasting may be recalled, they will come would have been problematic in the space
into play and threaten the current social of everyday life but in the heterotopic space
nexus or may be disregarded as inferior of death it becomes possible, although it
(together with their agents) and be erased may be subject to certain rites of passage
from the social memory (see below). (see below). Nachman (1978) prOVides a
It should not be forgotten that these good example here in the context of the
social practices create certain spatialities, analysis of mortuary feasting among the
produce a specific type of space, a distinc- Nissan in Melanesia. He argues that mortu-
tive heterotopia. Foucault (1986) has noted ary feasting (and other embodied practices
that cemeteries are one of the most charac- performed in the mortuary context such as
teristic such 'other places' which operate in dancing and speech making) expresses and
another temporality, the heterochrony of incorporates what he calls 'moral aggres-
death, which disrupts the experiental social sion' , sy.mbolic violence which remains
time of everyday life (1986: 26). This dis- impliCit, being at the same time extremely
tinctive spatiality and temporality of the effective since the subordinating power of
experience contributes further to the inten- the embodied experiences of death, diges-
Sity of the sense of bodily memory. tion and bodily expression, prevent people
Memory and forgetting, however, is a from questioning motives and challenging
field of contestation, a discourse of power. intentions (1978: 767-75). As Foster has
The fabrication of memory and forgetting observed, the lOgiC of mortuary feasting
constitute a distinctive 'political economy', 'constructs food giving not as reCiprocal
a process with important social implica- nurturing but rather as unilateral force-
tions. Le Goff has noted (with reference to feeding' (1990: 444). Social actors may
historical societies but it is equally applica- allow themselves to be victimised in this
ble to prehistoric ones) that, case, but they are in full knowledge that
collective memory has been an important challenge and response will follow using
issue in the struggle of power among social the same media, embodied practices.
forces. To make themselves the master of Moreover, the heterotopia of the ceme-
memory and forgetfulness is one of the tery or the tomb is a controlled space, a
great preoccupations of the classes, groups source of social power with restricted
and individuals who have dominated and accesses.
continue to dominate historical societies
(1992: 54). Heterotopias always presuppose a system
of opening and closing that both isolates
As Connerton has observed (1989), bod- them and makes them penetrable. In gen-
ily mnemonic practices, unlike discurSive, eral, the heterotopic site is not freely acces-
inscribing practices are more difficult to sible like a public place. Either the entry is
question, they carry emotive subordinating compulsory, as in the case of entering a
and subversive powers which can be barracks or a prison, or else the individual
Eating the Dead 119

has to submit to rites and purifications. To as well as chronologically. There is matelial


get it one must have a certain permission evidence of food remains in many cases,
and make certain gestures. (Foucault 1986: although this is the most problematic cate-
26). gory of material due to preservational and
It follows, therefore, that control over the recovery obstacles. Animal remains could
ritual entering into the mnemoscapes and have been easily mixed with human skele-
heterotopias of death constitute a power tal remains, and systematic recovery of
mechanism. Moreover, parameters such as plant remains requires specific field tech-
the quantity and elaboration of food and niques, rarely practised, especially in the
drink consumed, the processes of competi- excavation of mortuary contexts. In addi-
tive consumption, the intensity of the other tion, the remains may have been destroyed
bodily practices carried out in the mortuary or swept away during the regular "clean-
context and the number of participants, are ings" of the tombs, of which more below.
some of the cards played in this game of Nevertheless there are many cases where
remembering and forgetting (cf. Kirsch animal remains have been noticed. Here are
1973, among many others). some examples.
From Crete, at Lebena, Alexiou (1960:
226) found teeth and bones of large and
Mortuary Feasting, Remembering and
small animals, and similar finds from other
Forgetting in the Bronze Age Aegean
Early Minoan tholos tombs at Ag. Triadha,
Let me now tum to the Aegean data: I Krasi and Archanes have been reported
would like to attempt and offer some very (Branigan 1993: 77; Marinatos 1929: 124).
brief answers to three interconnected ques- There are also many cases from later tombs
tions: (1) What is the evidence for mortuary of all kind (e.g. the MM I tomb 19 from the
feasting in the Aegean during the Bronze Fourni cemetery at Archanes - Maggidis
Age? (2) Does the Aegean evidence fit with 1995; also this volume). From the main-
the ideas discussed above on the meaning land, it is well known that animal remains
of mortuary feasting? (3) Can we recon- were recorded in shaft graves, in
struct at least some aspects of the political Mycenaean tholos tombs, and very often in
economy of mortuary feasting in the Bronze chamber tombs. From Lerna some remains
Age Aegean? It must be stressed that I have of plants (cereals and pulses) have been
not done an exhaustive research of the found (Blackburn 1970). From Mycenae,
extremely rich Aegean mortuary database; I animal remains have been found in ten
have surveyed part of this vast literature cases in the Shaft Graves (Voutsaki 1993),
and I have chosen some examples which I and in several chamber tombs (e.g. in tombs
believe illustrate my points, and, hopefully, IS, 24, 78, 79, 81 and 100, bones of
will demonstrate the need for further analy- sheep/goat, cow and pig have been
sis and empirical research in the light of the recorded, some of them burnt - Xenaki-
present theoretical framework. Sakellariou 1985). In Perati many tombs
Starting with the first question, even a contained animal bones (the excavator
cursory survey of the evidence WOllld identified sheep/goat and birds among oth-
reveal that mortuary feasting was indeed ers), many of them burnt (e.g. Iakovidis
practised in the Aegean Bronze Age, 1969: 279, 280, 283, 276, 160, 169, 287).
although its intensity, character and scale of From the LH III tholoi at Myrsinochori and
participation seem to have varied spatially Voidokoilia near Pylos, bones of young
120 Yannis Hamilakis

sheep/goats and cow have been reported such as dancing, as Branigan has suggested
(Marinatos 1957). From the tholos tomb (1991: 187; 1993). Examples here include
and the chamber tomb 2 at Dendra, many the outer chambers at the Early Minoan
animal bones (sheep/goat and cow), some tombs of Ag. Triadha A, Apesokari B, Lebena
of them burnt, have been reported (Persson Y2 and Ag. Kyriaki, all filled with masses of
1931: 29, 80). From the Mycenaean cham- conical cups (Branigan 1993: 77-78); paved
ber tomb at Galatas, Northeast Pelopon- areas (which seem to be a Widespread fea-
nese, I analysed bones of sheep/goat, hare, ture in Minoan, especially EM, tombs d.
roe deer and birds, which indicate mortuary Soles 1992: 223-24) outside tholos tomb E
feasting (Hamilakis 1996a). Finally, Tsountas at Koumasa (Xanthoudides 1924: 6; Brani-
has noted remains 'of a funeral banquet' in gan 1993: 138; Figure 8.1) and Platanos B
front of the entrance of the tholos tomb at (Xanthoudides 1924: 90; Branigan 1993:
Menidi (cited in Kontorli-Papadopoulou 94), at the area in front of the chamber
1995: 119). tombs N-V-VI at Mochlos (Seager 1912: 40;
More illuminating evidence is offered, Soles 1992: 56-57), at Apesokari (Davaras
however, by the pottery and other vessels 1966: 441) and Archanes (burial building
and implements associated with food and 6), where animal bones and many cups
drink consumption. For example, it is well were also found (Sakellarakis 1975: 172-
known that the commonest pottery shape 74); the 'altars' at Apesokari (Branigan
from the Mesara tholos tomb is the conical 1993: 62), Kamilari A (Branigan 1993: 128),
cup, and most of the other shapes (such as tomb 19 at Phourni (Maggidis 1995: 573);
jugs, plates and bowls) indicate food and and the platform and the peribolos wall at
drink consumption, as has been noted by Ag. Kyriaki (Blackman and Branigan 1982:
Branigan (1993) and Walberg (1987: 60 and 45) and Kamilari (Branigan 1993: 128).
passim), among others. Broken kylikes and Similar platforms have been reported from
other drinking shapes are one of the com- early Cycladic cemeteries (Doumas 1987).
monest remains in Mycenaean burials, both And I would also mention the Archanes
in the mainland and in Crete. For example, neopalatial building 4 in the Fourni ceme-
at the Mycenaean settlement at Prosymna, tery, with its wine press and the masses of
from the 1068 pots recorded by the excava- conical cups (Sakellarakis and Sakellarakis
tor, drinking vessels such as kylikes and 1991: 86-88). It seems, therefore, that there
goblets form the largest group (ca 400), is plenty of evidence for mortuary feasting,
with the group of pouring vessels such as although it seems that drinking was a more
jugs and mugs coming second (ca 245). The commonly practised activity and involved
rest of the assemblage consist of jars, more participants than eating.
amphoras, stirrup-jars, 'feeding bottles' and One possible objection and a method-
alabastra (Blegen 1937: 259). ological difficulty with regard to the above
Finally, the existence of many outer evidence concerns the idea that at least
chambers, paved areas, platforms, 'altars', some of the remains of eating and drinking
and delimited spaces with enclosure walls may represent libations and offerings to the
outside tombs (in many cases with finds of dead, an explanation very commonly found
drinking and eating vessels, cf. Branigan in the narratives of Aegean Bronze Age mor-
1991: 187), indicate ritual ceremonies most tuary archaeology. It is quite likely that
likely to involve eating and drinking, as some of those practices were indeed taking
well as other forms of embodied practices place, but that still does not invalidate my
Eating the Dead 121

r.

---13

t
MTS,

Figure 8.1 Plan of the prepalatial cemetery at Koumasa, showing the paved areas (after Xanthoudides 1924).

argument. First, the idea that most evidence (hence their disarticulated form and the
for feasting and drinking represents liba- presence of cut marks) and pottery and
tions and offerings to the dead is very com- other vessels seem to have been used. More
monly founded on the extrapolation of later importantly, in many cases the masses of
perceptions about death and the Under- food and drink serving vessels testify to the
world (Homeric epic, Classical era) to the participation of a large number of people, as
Bronze Age. So for some authors, food offer- does the provision and the organisation of
ings are to accompany the dead in her/his space in and around the tombs. This evi-
journey to the 'Underworld'. This idea, dence does not exclude, of-course, the pos-
therefore, makes assumptions about Bronze sibility of libations but that would have
Age attitudes towards death, which are not been only part of a series of ceremonies and
at all justified and empirically supported. rituals involving embodied practices with
Secondly, the nature of the evidence in the living participants.
most cases argues against them being The second question (does the Aegean
exclusively or mostly for libations and evidence fit with the ideas on mortuary
offerings to the dead: for example, animal feasting explored in the first part of this
bones seem to be the remnants of meals paper?) requires more discussion, but I
122 Yannis Hamilakis

would like to suggest that there is plenty of Widely recorded (cf. Grinsell 1961, 1973;
evidence which indicates that the fabri- Fossey 1985, for some examples). Inten-
cation of remembering and forgetting tionally broken kylikes have been repeat-
through bodily mnemonic devices involv- edly reported from LBA tombs at Armeni in
ing feasting and other bodily practices, was Crete, where they were found in the dromos
one of the main features of Aegean Bronze associated with cooking ware, and in a
Age mortuary ceremonies. The main ele- small paved area linked to the dromos
ments known from ethnographic accounts (French 1990: 77), and from many Mycena-
are all there: eating and drinking; dancing, ean tombs in the mainland (Astrom 1987:
and I would suggest other bodily sensory 215; Kontorli-Papadopoulou 1995: 118). At
experiences such as consumption of nar- Prosymna, Blegen reports broken kylikes or
cotics, as indicated by the many finds of the cups at every dromos and he envisages a
so-called incense burners; (for some Cretan ceremony where the survivors used to
post-palatial examples see Evans 1905); and 'drink a toast in farewell to the dead, or to
many different practices which could be pour a libation, and then to shatter the gob-
taken as an attempt to erase memory, to fin- let against the door of the tomb' (Blegen
ish and kill the dead as social persons. One 1937: 238). According to Voutsaki broken
such practice· is that of 'secondary burial' kylikes were found in 67 out of 232 cham-
(e.g. Cavanagh 1978) which in fact amounts ber tombs (Voutsaki 1993: 86). Incidentally,
to the removal of bodies from their original it is tempting to suggest that the occurrence
burial and their accumulation into anony- of broken kylikes in the dromos may repre-
mous piles. The practice, which is described sent a rite of passage before entering to the
sometimes as 'clearance', was widely used ritually controlled heterotopic space of
in Early Minoan tholos tombs where the death.
piles of disarticulated skeletons were Examples of other artefacts include the
removed from the tomb proper and were stone figurines from the EBA tombs at Ag.
deposited to the adjoining rooms (Branigan Kosmas and Amorgos (Astrom 1987: 215);
1987: 47). The same social logic may explain the cmshed bronze bowls from Mycenaean
some practices in collective burials, such as chamber tomb 7 (Persson 1942: 35-36),
the coveting of the accumulated skeletons and the bronze hydria and cauldrons from
with a cmst of limestone or a layer of soil, a tomb 2 at Dendra ( Persson 1931: 98); the
slab or a layer of small stones: examples bent swords and daggers from tombs such
here include tomb E at Koumasa (Branigan as the tholos at Nichoria (Wilkie 1987:
1987: 47), the tomb A at Vravron-Lapoutsi 132), the Mycenaean tombs at Ialysos
(Kontorli-Papadopoulou 1987: 155), and (Rhodes), Pylos, Miletos (Astrom 1987:
tombs at Perati where the burials were form- 215), Myrsinochori, Kakovatos, Peristeria,
ing layers covered by soil (Iakovidis 1969: Eglianos: Vagenas (Korres 1984: 96), and
76). the Early Minoan HI cemetery at Ag.
I would suggest that in the same interpre- Photia, Crete (Davaras n.d: pI. 10; Figure
tative framework we could include phe- 8.2). The deposition of artefacts with the
nomena such as the intentional destmction dead is in itself a form of 'killing', of death,
of pottery (mainly drinking vessels), as well of termination of the social life of the spe-
as the destmction, the 'killing' (or the sacri- cific object (Chapman 1994: 52; cf.
fice?) of other objects such as bronze ves- Kopytoff 1986), but the destruction of the
sels, figurines and weapons, a practice object adds a more dramatic element to the
Eating the Dead 123

Figure 8.2 The bent bronze dagger (top) from the EM cemetery at Ag. Photia, Sitia (Davaras n .d. pI. 10; per-
mission requested).

ritual, a more powerful performative Mochlos and Lema (tomb 220 - Blackburn
embodying experience. 1970); the small cooking pot from Vorou
In the same social lOgic we should also with the skeletal remains (including the
include the tantalizing hints for endocanni- jaw) of a child in it (Branigan 1987: 48), and
balism, the consumption of dead bodies: I finally the plentiful remains of burnt bones.
refer here to finds such as : the chopped and In attempting to answer the third ques-
deliberately broken bones from Ag. KyTiaki tion (can we reconstruct some aspects of
(Blackman and Branigan 1982 : 53; Branigan the political economy of mortuary feasting
1987: 49), where in a sample of less than a in the Bronze Age Aegean?), I will briefly
hundred bones with the largest being 6 cm discuss a couple of examples. As I said ear-
in length, the majority of them appear to lier, it seems that the intensity, scale and
have been deliberately broken, and five most probably the social meaning of bod-
were clearly chopped or cut at both ends; ily mnemonic devices involving feasting,
the small fragments of bones found in close seems to have varied chronologically and
association with conical cups from the same spatially. In the case of Ag. Kyriaki, for
site (Blackman and Branigan 1982: 8, 25; example, we witness a significant increase
Branigan 1987: 49); the quem stone with in the proportion of cups in relation to
the remains of pounded bones in the saddle other vessels, in the later and shorter
from Kaminospelio (Blackman and phase of its use (EMIII-MMI). This propor-
Branigan 1973: 202-206; Branigan 1987: tion doubles from 39 .7% in the earlier
50); the similar frods of saddle querns from phase (EMI-II) to 79 .2% in the later (EMIII-
124 Yannis Hamilakis

Table 1. Ag. Kyriaki. Quantitative expression of pottery shapes and individual pots per functional category. In the
category 'other' the following shapes are included: lids, pithoi, lamakes, cooking pots, double base and crucible
(based on Blackman and Branigan 1982). NB. The totals refer to the overall number of shapes and pots used in this
analysis and in this table are the sum of the 'food and drink/liquid serving vessels' and' other' vessels (Hamilakis
1995).

AG.KYRlAKI

Functional categories Number of shapes Number of pots %(*)

Food and drink/liquid serving vessels 49 1834 93.7


Pouring Vessels 21 483 24.7
Drinking vessels 15 1058 54.1
Othff 6 123 6.3

TOTAL 55 1957 100

* Percentage out of the total number of pots (1957).

MMI) (Tables 1,2; Figure 8.3). A chi-square Table 2. Ag. Kyriaki. Quantitative expression of the
test showed that this difference is highly main vessel forms in raw counts and percentages.
Based on Blackman and Branigan 1982, table 4.
significant statistically (Table 3). This pat- Percentages calculated out of the total number of pots
tern may indicate participation of a larger for each chronological phase. Pedestal bowls and large
number of people in the ceremonies. This bowls in Blackman and Branigan's table are included
in the 'bowls' category here. The category 'other'
could have been connected to the intensi- includes lids, a double vase, a crucible (EM I - II),
fication of competition among the elites, a pithoi, larnakes and cooking pots (EM III - MM I)
process which will lead to the establish- (Hamilakis 1995).
ment of palatial authorities. The presence AG.KYRIAKI
of larnakes and pithoi fragments at that
period, which according to Branigan Shape category EM 1- II EMill-MMI
denotes the emergence of the individual
Cups 494 (39.7 %) 564 (79.2 %)
above the communal level (in contrast to Jugs 325 (26.1 %) 47 (6.6 %)
the previous communal and undifferenti- Bowls 234 (18.8 %) 51 (7.2 %)
ated burial practice - Branigan 1993) may Jars 105 (8.4 %) 14 (2.0 %)
Spherical pyxides 32 (2.6 %)
have been related to the change in the Other 55 (4.4 %) 36 (5.0 %)
drinking pattern. Even in that second
phase, however, the number of partici- TOTAL 1245 712
pants must have remained small, given the
time span of the use of the tomb. The
assemblage is more likely to represent
Table 3. Ag. Kyriaki. Chi-Square test for the difference
repeated drinking ceremonies involving a in the relation between the quantity of cups and all
relatively small number of people, a other vessels in phases EM I-II and EM III-MM 1. Data
hypothesis further supported by the low from Table 2. Chi-Square value: 285.071; p:s; 0.001
ratio of pouring to drinking vessels. The (Hamilakis 1995).
use of a large number of shapes for drink- Shape categories EMI-II EMill-MMI
ing (most of them with features such as
handles, elaborated bases, rims, and gener- Cups 494 (39.7 %) 564 (79.2 %)
All other vessels 751 (60.3 %) 148(20.8 %)
ally elaborated bodies) and many of them
Eating the Dead 125

80%

60%


II
Cups

Jugs

40% 1m Bowls

m Jars
0 Spher. pyxides

20% • Other

0%
1 2 Phases

Figure 8.3 Ag. Kyriaki: percentages of pottery shape categories in EMI-II (1) and EMIII-MMI (2) (Hamilakis
1995; data from Blackman and Branigan 1982).

with painted decoration, indicates a low the period as a whole (Hamilakis 1995). Of
degree of standardisation of form and a rel- course some serving vessels - the ones
atively large amount of energy devoted to with elaborate shapes - tended to be
their production. By contrast, in the painted, were decorated with a vast variety
neopalatial, high status chamber tomb at of elements and generally received a great
Poros (Table 4; Muhly 1992), the drinking amount of investment in time, skill, labour
vessels indicate mortuary feasting with a and material. As I have suggested else-
large number of participants: the vast where, these developments reflect the
majority of vessels found at the tomb political tensions in neopalatial societies
come in drinking shapes, and although the with severe competition among the differ-
period of use is much shorter, probably ent factions - the vertically divided social
only a couple of centuries (Muhly 1992: groups with a diverse make-up including
105), the relative proportion of the drink elites and their followers but with a com-
serving vessels is higher. Also, drinking mon allegiance (Hamilakis 1995, 1996b;
shapes were much more standardised, the for discussion on social competition in
vast majority of drinking cups were plain mortuary expressions cf. Cannon 1989; on
undecorated (Hamilakis 1995: 262), and factional competition cf. Brumfiel 1989).
their manufacture reveals signs of mass The pottery data from Poros testify to the
production, a more general tendency for participation of a large number of people
126 Yannis Hamilakis

Table 4. Poros, Heraklion. Quantitative expression of pots in general and of painted pots in particular per func-
tional category. Data from Muhly 1992. The category 'other' includes: pithos, tripod cooking pot, burners, stirrup
jar, amphora, amphiconic small amphora, alabastron and flask (Hamilakis 1995).

POROS

Functional Number of Number of Number of


category shapes pots % (*) painted pots % (")

Food and drink/


liquid serving vessels 13 221 94.8 80 36.2
Pouring vessels 5 34 14.6 21 61.8
Drinking vessels 7 185 79.3 57 30.8
Other 8 12 5.2 8 66. 7

TOTAL 21 233 100 88 37.8

NB. The totals refer to the overall number of shapes and pots used in this analysis and in this table are the sum of
the 'food and drink/liquid serving vessels' and 'other' vessels.
* Percentage of pots out of the total number of pots used in this analysis (233).
** Percentage of painted pots for each functional category.

in the drinking mortuary ceremony and at would have vanished. Bodily mnemonic
the same time indicate that status distinc- devices such as feasting and drinking cere-
tions were maintained and signified by the monies seemed to have played a key role
presence of a few highly decorated vessels, in the negotiations of power among the
in addition to the vast majority of plain competing elites and their factions, before
undecorated ones. I could go on referring and after the development of palatial insti-
to other examples such as the evidence for tutions. Alcohol consumption must have
a restrictive character of feasting in some contributed to the intense emotional
Cretan post-palatial burial contexts (in a experience of the participants in the
period marked by centralisation of power mortuary feast. Power was contested over
- cf. Bennet 1990 - which may imply and through bodies, bodily senses and
decrease in the intensity of factional com- emotions.
petition), where the masses of simple
drinking cups of the neopalatial period
Conclusions
have been replaced with drinking sets of
elaborate vessels (e.g. tombs at Zafer It is well known that it is extremely diffi-
Papoura and Milatos - Evans 1905; Figure cult to express with discursive practices,
8.4, 8.5), but I think that the discussed experiences which are not meant to be rep-
examples suffice to illustrate the point: resented with words, but to be felt, sensed,
that individuals and social groups with incorporated, embodied. I have no illu-
conflicting interests and claims and aspira- sions and I am fully aware of the fact that
tions to power, were aware of the powerful in this article I have reduced the multiplic-
effect of habitual memories sedimented in ity, fluidity and complexity of emotional
the body: the bodily memory of a big bodily experiences of food, digestion and
funerary feast would have persisted death into a dry, homogenised, inscribing
together with the generosity of the host, edifice. My only hope is that this text does
when many other things and persons more justice to such rich and complex
Eating the Dead 127

C l~t cut in Ftoo...


"W"it"- d.eca.ved. Bones
( 'tS .....' d.~et'-)

R~mo.;ns.'
of
Tvo,.'!!
Casket

a. TYll'ocl +teQrt~
ot
Pra5oter W' it fL
C~a'rcoa.e aGave

Figure 8.4 Plan of the post-palatial chamber Tomb of the Tripod Hearth', showing
among other features, the single set of elaborate bronze serving vessels
and artefacts possibly used for incense burning (after Evans 1905).

phenomena than some previous stories in on a crucial and fundamental one, which is
the archaeological literature. I hope to have very rarely acknowledged in the archaeo-
shown that the fabrication of remembering logical discourses.
and forgetting and the political economy of This discussion should be situated
bodily memories, offer a more interesting within an epistemic framework which
way of thinking and writing about some breaks away from the conventional archae-
mortuary practices, including mortuary ological treatment of food consumption,
feasting, than many of the conventional material world and the human body. I have
stories revolving around anachronistic tried to theorize food consumption as an
concepts. I am not suggesting that other active, multifaceted social phenomenon
parameters do not come into play in this which is implicated in the construction of
phenomenon, but I have chosen to focus social persons and evokes senses, emotions
128 Yannis Hamilakis

Figure 8.5 Drawing showing the group of bronze vessels and the tripod hearth in the south-west comer of
the interior of the post-palatial 'Tomb of the Tripod Hearth' (after Evans 1905).

and feelings. As such, it is intimately linked The Bronze Age Aegean offers plenty of
with the condition of human embodiment evidence for mortuary feasting and mainly
in all its aspects and forms, including that drinking ceremonies, in the form of animal
of death. Moreover, I have tried to show and plant remains, food and drink serving
that food, being one of the most powerful vessels, and sUitably arranged delimited
embodied mnemonic devices, can play a spaces around the tombs. Food and drink
key role in the production of remembering consumption seemed to have been only
and forgetting associated with the pro- one of a whole range of devices aimed to
cesses of death. Finally, I have suggested generate remembering and forgetting.
that the mnemoscapes of death offer a Others included dancing, consumption of
unique arena for the re-enactment of the psychoactive substances, and the 'killing' of
contestations of power. Gastropolitics and memory with practices such as the 'sacri-
the politiCS of memory are played out in fice' of pottery, weapons and other objects,
the arena of the human body and in a het- the removal and the deposition of the disar-
erotopiC (and heterochronic) space, the ticulated body into anonymous piles, and
access to which is subject to ritual control possibly the consumption of parts of the
but which also permits and invites interac- dead body. This picture which has been
tions which are impossible in other spaces. painted here with a fairly coarse brush, can
Eating the Dead 129

start revealing details of the dynamics of A.strom, P.


power and their diachronic fluctuations, 1987 Intentional destruction of grave goods. In
once we start paying closer attention to the Laffineur 1987: 213-17.
active role of mortuary feasting and drink- Battaglia, D.
ing and the material culture associated with 1990 On the Bones of the Serpent: Person, Mem01Y
and Mortality in Sabarl Island Society.
it. By way of example, I have suggested here
(Chicago and London).
that embodied memory was one of the
Bem1et,].
resources used by the elites and their fac-
1990 Knossos in context: comparative
tions before and especially after the estab- perspectives on the Linear B administration
lishment of palatial institutions, when of LM IBII Crete. AJA 94(2): 193-211.
factional competition was severe. In an Blackburn, E.T.
extremely fluid political landscape with 1970 Middle Helladic Graves and Burial Customs
constant negotiations of power, the genera- with Special Reference to Lema in the
tion of bodily memories was an essential Argolid. phD Dissertation, University of
resource. Some, and possibly the most pow- Cincinnati. (Ann Arbor: University
Microfilms International).
erful, bodily memories were produced and
Blackman, D. and K. Branigan
consumed at the same time in the
1973 An unusual tholos tomb at Kamenospelio.
mnemoscapes of death. Kr Chron29: 199-206.
1982 The excavation of an Early Minoan tholos
Acknowledgments tomb at Ayia Kyriaki, Ayiofarango, southern
Crete. BSA 77: 1-57.
Many thanks to Keith Branigan, not only for
Blegen, C.
inviting me to participate at the Rount Table,
1937 Prosymna: The Helladic Settlement
but also for all the help and encouragement Preceding the Argive Heraeu11l.
over the years. Part of the work discussed in (Cambridge).
this paper derives from my PhD dissertation Branigan, K.
for which Keith acted as advisor. Thanks are 1987 Ritual interference with human bones in
also due to the participants of the meeting the Mesara Tholoi. In Laffineur 1987: 43-
for their comments and for the stimulating 51.
discussion, to David Sutton who kindly sent 1991 Funerary ritual and social cohesion in Early
Bronze Age Crete. Joumal ofMediterranean
me his unpublished paper, and to Bill Sillar Studies 1(2): 183-92.
and Peter Day for discussions during the
1993 Dancing with Death: Life and Death in
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