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Journal of Textile Science & Engineering

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ISSN: 2165-8064

Research Article
Research Article Open
OpenAccess
Access

Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter

Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton Spandex Woven
Fabric
Islam S*
Sinha Textile Group as a Fabric Technologist, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Abstract
The aim of this project is to support the cotton spandex woven industry by manufacturing a wide variety of
stretched clothes where, some friendly performance like wearer comfort, super stretch, elasticity and recovery can
be achieved powerfully. This project is a practical based project, which can help not only the textile learners but
also the fabric developer in a massive way to manufacture cotton spandex fabric and also to control their properties
strongly. The difficulties found during manufacturing cotton spandex woven fabric were enlisted them cordially and
after that all of them were solved earnestly. Cotton spandex woven fabric cannot be manufactured without trial,
all of which are strongly discussed in this project briefly. This project work is just not a paper work, but it is an
achievement, which has been achieved by working strongly in the textile mills. It is to be mentioned that, “stretch
or super stretch” is a welcoming property which can increase the comfort level of wearer, on the other hand there
remains another paradoxical property named “growth” which has some de-welcoming properties on fabrics for which
it is strongly needed to be controlled and all these things are carefully discussed in this project. Growth basically
has an increasing relative property with the increment of stretch, but at a stage, this increased growth brings about
some negative effect in fabric which creates some bad impression to wearer. Although, growth is proportional to
its stretch but this growth should not be increased with the increment of stretch due to which, it is required to be
controlled through some additional but necessary treatment like heat setting through stenter machine at fabric’s wet
processing zone. What actually happened due to heat setting the cotton spandex woven fabric and what changes
happened in its internal structure that is also seen in microscope and analysed the differences and discussed it here
in this project work.

Keywords: Heat setting; Stenter machine; Heat setting procedure;
Raw materials; Changes due to heat set; 3rd Party lab testing; Time and
temperature curve; Equation; Microscopic view
Introduction
The importance of this project work is tremendous in the field
of cotton spandex woven industry. Much efforts were given while
experimenting it in the industry through hundreds of trials from which,
some successful trials are included in this project work. Different
temperature from higher to lower were applied while heat setting the
cotton spandex woven fabric. Actually, heat setting is an application
of heat by high temperature, due to which, resilience, elasticity, shape
retention, crease resistance of fabrics is controlled. It enhances the
strength, pilling performances and stretch ability of fabrics. It is necessary
for the fabric of cotton spandex, polyester spandex, thermoplastic fibres,
triacetate, synthetic fibres, elastomers and PAC fibres for dimensional
stabilization. It also increases the crease proof properties. Basically,
heat setting is a process, by which, heat is applied on a fabric to control
some properties like stretch, growth, shrinkage, elastic recovery and
extension etc. It is a thermal procedure that happens habitually in either
a dry heating chamber or in a steam compartment. This process also
provides the fibres, yarns or fabrics a dimensional stability and a little
bit wrinkle resistance property those are also discussed in this project.
It is also observed from the project that, due to heat setting the cotton
spandex yarns, it strongly attached with the cotton fibre and also it also
gripped the cotton fibre. Due to heat setting, the structural pattern of
various materials was rearranged. Thermal shrinkage happened due to
heat set the cotton spandex woven fabric which reduced creep, crimp
and growth in normal condition [1-3].
Stretch and Growth
Due to the application of load on a fabric it will demonstrate a
property like springiness, which is called stretch. The fabrics whose
are made by mixing with elastane and have a property of elasticity or
springiness is called stretch fabric. Fabric’s elasticity can be of many
types like cross-elasticity, longitudinally elasticity and bi-elasticity.
Mono-stretch is the stretch ability of a material that can stretch only
in one direction, either in the warp direction or in the weft direction.
Bi-stretch is the stretch ability of a material that can stretch in both
two directions like in the warp direction and in the weft direction.
Super stretch is the fabric which has a large volume of elasticity in both
directions due to having high percentage of elastane. Stretch ability of
a fabric is measured by calculating the length difference in between the
application of load/tension and after releasing the load. Fabric will be
stretched due to the application of load, but after releasing the load
and after relaxing the fabric, it will try to shrink to its earlier original
position. However, due to the application of load this fabric cannot go
back to its earlier original position, this increment of length is called
growth [4-5].
*Corresponding author: Islam S, Sinha Textile Group as a Fabric Technologist,
Bangladesh University of Textiles, Dhaka, Bangladesh, Tel: +880 2-9114260;
E-mail: sharifultextiles@gmail.com
Received September 14, 2017; Accepted September 21, 2017; Published
October 15, 2017
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting
in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton Spandex Woven
Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319
Copyright: © 2017 Islam S. This is an open-access article distributed under the
terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted
use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and
source are credited.

J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal Volume 7 • Issue 5 • 1000319

ISSN: 2165-8064
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton
Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319
Stages of Heat Setting
Heat setting is done in three different stages like grey fabrics,
scoured fabric (after scouring) and after mercerization. Heat setting of
mercerized fabric is best suited for good dimensional stability, good
dyeing actions, better crease resistance properties and for better pilling
performances.
Temperature for heat setting
Temperature varies for the construction of different types of
fabrics. Higher temperature like 200°C is applied for heavy weight
fabric, 170°C to 180°C is applied for medium weight fabric and 160°C
is applied for light weight fabric.
Machine for heat setting
Generally, in industries, Stenter machine is used for heat setting,
stretching, drying and finishing of Fabrics. It has two endless chains,
which have an adjustable distance within them. Basically, it has a length
of 80 to 120 feet and a width of 80 to 100 inches.
Fabric is heated with a blast of hot air. Speed of this machine may
be from 15 to 50 meter/minute with a temperature of 160 to 220°C that
depends on the type, nature and thickness of fabrics.
Stenter Machine
It is a machine that is used to do some activities like-chemical
finishing treatment, curing treatment, heat setting, adjusting width,
controlling GSM, controlling shrinkage etc. Stenter machine has some
components like bath, stenter chain, burner, circulating fans, exhaust
fans, winder, pin etc.
Heat setting procedure in a stenter machine
Batcher is used to collect the fabric and to feed it into the stenter
machine. There is a padder where only water is used to damp/wet
the fabric otherwise it can be damaged while heat setting. There is an
endless stenter chain with its spiky pins at the edge to grip the fabric at
selvedge and to draw it forward. Basically, in a stenter machine, there
are 8 to 10 chamber, which contain burners, circulating fans to blow
air, exhaust fans to suck all the hot air within the chambers. Warp
elongation is done by attraction roller. Burner increases temperature
inside it for heat setting [6,7].
Heat Setting Parameters
• Name of the machine: M-4136 Santex Stenter Frame Year
2003
• Width: Up to 3400 mm or 133.85”
• Type: Vertical pin chain
• Temperature: 230° C heating (maximum)
• Speed: 20 Meter/Minutes to 40 Meter/Minutes
• Temperature taken: 160°C to 220°C
• Width Taken: Practically fabric is stretched by ½ inches than
its original width for heat setting properly
• Bath chemicals: Water for dampening the fabric, otherwise
fabric may be burnt while heat setting. 5 g/litre of acetic acid
is also applied if fabric is taken after mercerization due to
controlling of pH.
J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal
ISSN: 2165-8064
Page 2 of 9
Materials and Methods
Basically, Lycra is a registered trademark that is used for DuPont's
elastane filament. Elastane is a generic term, like polyamide or polyester.
It is a manmade fibre, where the fibre forming material is a synthetic
chain polymer that contains minimum 85% segmented polyurethane.
Heat setting of cotton spandex fabric is a critical procedure. During
heat setting process, fabric is passed through the stenter machine
continuously. Any stoppage or minute changes in the machine
parameters will affect the stretch property of fabric. The measurement
of stretch and growth is measured in ASTM standards. It is not possible
to control the stretch and growth of cotton elastane fabric without heat
setting. The best technique to heat set the fabric after mercerization, as
in this stage heat can be applied properly.
Raw Materials
Cotton spandex woven fabric is the fundamental raw material for
this project. Most of the industrial engineers refer different types of
fabric with different weave and construction with a view to investigate
them properly and come back with a logical fruitful result. In this
project, three types of fabrics were tested for this process mentioned
below:
1. Cotton spandex fabric of construction 10 × (10+70D)/78 × 50
2. Cotton spandex fabric of construction 20 × (12+70D)/136 × 60
3. Cotton spandex fabric of construction 32 × (32+70D)/190 × 80.
Experiment 01
Fabric details
• Fabrication: 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Solid Dyed Twill
• Construction:10 × (10+70D)/78 × 50
• Weave: 3/1 LHT
• Weight: 9.5 OZ/YD2
• Cut-able width: 51 inches
• Colour: Black.
The procedure
Fabric of composition 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Solid Dyed Twill
of construction 10 × (10+70D)/78 × 50 of weave 3/1 LHT of width
51 inch is taken for heat setting and applied different temperature
for controlling stretch and growth in a stenter machine. The standard
for stretch and growth is given in the below chart according to buyer.
Temperature was also different like 160°C, 180°C and 200°C during
trial. After heat setting is done, samples of “25cm × 5cm” are cut and
then hang it for measuring stretch and growth in testing lab as per
ASTM method.
Buyer’s standard for measuring stretch and growth of woven
non-denim bottom fabric
Every buyer has a standard for measuring the stretch and growth.
This chart describes what the maximum growth can be in contrast with
the stretch of a fabric.
Chart explanation
It is understood from this chart that, there is a range for growth
rate for a certain stretch percentage. This stretch and growth rate is
Volume 7 • Issue 5 • 1000319
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton
Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319

Page 3 of 9

nearly same for most of the buyers in case of cotton spandex woven
non-denim bottom fabric. If the stretch% is from 01% to 10% the
maximum growth rate is 2%, that means, growth rate cannot be more
than 2% when stretch is from 01% to 10%. If the stretch% is from
11% to 20% the maximum growth rate is 4%, that means, growth rate
cannot be more than 4% when stretch is from 11% to 20%. Like this, if
the stretch% is from 21% to 30% the maximum growth rate is 6%, that
means, growth rate cannot be more than 6% when stretch is from 21%
to 30%. Moreover, if the stretch% is from 31% to 40% the maximum
growth rate is 8%, that means, growth rate cannot be more than 8%
when stretch is from 31% to 40%. It is to be noted that, if stretch and
growth are passed as per buyer’s standard, it will also give a good result
for recovery% (Table 1).
We can find out the stretch and growth by below formula:
Stretch%={(Loaded Length–Initial Length)/Initial Length} × 100
Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/Initial Length}
× 100
Recovery%={(Stretched Length–Length after Relaxing)/(Stretched
Length–Original Length)} × 100.
By applying this formula, we have measured stretch and growth
and have mentioned in the chart.
recovery is [{(30.3 cm - 26.75 cm)/(30.3 cm–25 cm)} × 100] or 66.98%.
As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 21% to 30%, the growth
should be maximum 6%, but here growth is more than standard that is
7% so it is failing (Table 2).
When we heat set the fabric at 160°C temperature with speed
of 20 MPM having width of 51.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches
practically), then we found stretch 19%, growth 6% and recovery was
68.42%. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 11% to 20%, the
growth should be maximum 4%, but here growth is more than the
standard that is 6% so it is failing.
When we heat set the fabric at 180°C temperature with speed
of 20 MPM having width of 51.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches
practically), then we found stretch 12.8%, growth 2% and recovery was
84.37% which was excellent. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is
from 11% to 20%, the growth should be maximum 4%, and here growth
is within the range that is 2% so it is passing all the parameters of buyers.
When we heat set the fabric at 200°C temperature with speed
of 20 MPM having width of 51.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches
practically), then we found stretch 4%, growth 4% and recovery was 0%
which was worst. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 01% to
09%, the growth should be maximum 2%, but here growth is more than
the standard that is 4% so it is failing.

Chart explanation
It is seen from the chart that, when we tested for stretch and growth
of a non-heat set cotton spandex woven don-denim fabric, the initial
length of the sample was 25 cm. We used a load of 3 pound for hanging
the sample. After it was hung for 30 seconds, the sample was increased
up-to 30.3 cm due to weight. We hang it for 30 min and then we relaxed
the sample for one hour. After it was relaxed for one hour, it increased a
little bit due to hanging, from its initial length and the new length after
relaxation was 26.75 cm. As per formula [Stretch%={(Loaded Length–
Initial Length)/Initial Length} ×100], the stretch becomes, [{(30.3
cm–25 cm)/25 cm} × 100] or 21.20%. If we calculate the growth as per
formula [Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/Initial
Length} × 100], the growth becomes [{(26.75 cm–25 cm)/25 cm} × 100]
or 7%. Therefore, by formula [Recovery%={(Stretched Length–Length
After Relaxing)/(Stretched Length–Original Length)} × 100], the
Third party lab testing: After testing internally in Opex and Sinha
Textile Group, for proofing the internal test, the fabric (which passed
all the parameter for a specific heat set temperature) was sent to a 3rd
party lab testing organisation in Bureau Veritas BD PVT LTD and
measured stretch and growth there and collected the data. The report
number of BV BD is: BVBD17028627. This chart shows the test report.
Chart explanation
We sent the fabric to Bureau Veritas BD PVT LTD, which was
heat set at 180°C temperature with a speed of 20 MPM having width
of 51.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches practically). When we tested
for stretch and growth of the fabric, the initial length of the sample was
25 cm. We used a load of 3 pound for hanging the sample. After it was
hung for 30 seconds, the sample was increased up-to 28.20 cm due to
weight. We hang it for 30 minutes and then we relaxed the sample for
one hour. After it was relaxed for one hour, it increased a little bit due

Buyer Stretch Growth Stretch Growth Stretch Growth Stretch Growth

Levis 01%-10% Max 2% 11%-20% Max 4% 21%-30% Max 6% 31%-40% Max 8%
H&M 01%-10% Max 2% 11%-20% Max 4% 21%-30% Max 6% 31%-40% Max 8%
VFA 01%-10% Max 2% 11%-20% Max 4% 21%-30% Max 6% 31%-40% Max 8%
Sears 01%-10% Max 2% 11%-20% Max 4% 21%-30% Max 6% 31%-40% Max 8%
JC Penny 01%-10% Max 2% 11%-20% Max 4% 21%-30% Max 6% 31%-40% Max 8%
Table 1: Buyer requirement for stretch and growth.

Sample Size: “25 cm × 5 cm” Initial Length Length with Length After Stretch (%) Growth (%) Recovery (%) Result
Load Relaxation
Without heat set 25 cm 30.3 cm 26.75 cm 21.20% 7% 66.98% Fail
Heat Set 160°C, 20 MPM, 51.25" 25 cm 29.75 cm 26.5 cm 19% 6% 68.42% Fail
Heat Set 180°C, 20 MPM, 51.25" 25 cm 28.20 cm 25.5 cm 12.8% 2% 84.37% Pass
Heat Set 200°C, 20 MPM, 51.25" 25 cm 26 cm 26 cm 4% 4% 0% Fail
Table 2: Stretch and growth test is done in opex and sinha textile group, Report number: STG 08242017-0012.

Sample Size: “25 cm × 5 cm” Initial Length Length with Length After Stretch (%) Growth (%) Recovery (%) Result
Load Relaxation
Heat Set 180°C, 20MPM, 51.25" 25 cm 28.20 cm 25.50 cm 12.8% 2% 84.37% Pass
Table 3: Stretch and growth test in bureau veritas BD PVT LTD, Report number: BVBD17028627.

J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal Volume 7 • Issue 5 • 1000319

ISSN: 2165-8064
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton
Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319
to hanging, from its initial length and the new length after relaxation
was 25.50 cm. As per formula [Stretch%={(Loaded Length–Initial
Length)/Initial Length} × 100], the stretch becomes, [{(28.20 cm–25
cm)/25 cm} × 100] or 12.8%. If we calculate the growth as per formula
[Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/Initial Length} ×
100], the growth becomes [{(25.50 cm –25 cm)/25cm} × 100] or 2%.
Therefore, by formula [Recovery%={(Stretched Length–Length After
Relaxing)/(Stretched Length–Original Length)} × 100], the recovery is
[{(28.20 cm–25.50 cm)/(28.20 cm–25 cm)} × 100] or 84.37% which was
excellent. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 11% to 20%,
the growth should be maximum 4%, and here the growth is within the
range that is 2%, so it is passing all the parameters of buyer’s (Table 3).
Result and discussion
Here it is proved that, lycra without proper heat set is very difficult
to control the stretch and growth. We gave three trial in stenter
machine with temperature of 160°C, 180°C and 200°C. Whenever, we
heated the lycra fabric with 180°C, then all the parameters like stretch
and growth were passed. For proofing our test result, we have done this
test in a 3rd party lab named “Bureau Varitas testing Bangladesh PVT
LTD”, Report number: BVBD17028627, where the parameters like
stretch and growth were also passed. Therefore, we can say that, if we
heat set a non-denim woven bottom weight fabric of composition 98%
Cotton 2% Spandex Solid Dyed 3/1 Twill weave fabric of construction
10 × (10+70D)/78 × 50 at width 51.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches)
in stenter machine with 180°C temperature at 20 RPM then it will pass
all the parameters like stretch and growth.
Experiment 02
Fabric details
• Fabrication: 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Solid Dyed Twill
• Construction: 20 × (12+70D)/136 × 60
• Weave: 3/1 LHT
• Weight: 9.3 OZ/YD2
• Cut-able width: 53 inches
• Colour: Dark Green.
Procedure
Construction of 20 × (12+70D)/136 × 60, 3/1 LHT, CW: 53” fabric is
taken for heat setting and applied different temperature for controlling
stretch and growth in a stenter machine. The standard for stretch and
growth is given in the above Table 1, according to buyer. Temperature
was also different like 160°C, 170°C and 180°C during trial. After heat
setting is done, samples of “25 cm × 5 cm” are cut and then hang it for
measuring stretch and growth in testing lab as per ASTM method.
We can find out the stretch and growth by below formula:
Stretch%={(Loaded Length–Initial Length)/Initial Length} × 100;
Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/Initial Length} × 100;
Sample Size: “25 cm × 5 cm” Initial Length Length with
Load
Without heat set 25 cm 32 cm
Heat Set 160°C, 20 MPM, 53.25" 25 cm 30.25 cm
Heat Set 170°C, 20 MPM, 53.25" 25 cm 29.80 cm
Heat Set 180°C, 20 MPM, 53.25" 25 cm 27.50 cm
Table 4: Stretch and growth test is done in sinha textile group, Report Number: STG 08242017-0013.
J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal
ISSN: 2165-8064
Page 4 of 9
Recovery%={(Stretched Length–Length After Relaxing)/(Stretched
Length–Original Length)} × 100.
By applying this formula, we have measured stretch and growth
and have mentioned in the below chart.
Chart explanation
It is seen from the chart that, when we tested for stretch and growth
of a non-heat set cotton spandex woven don-denim fabric, the initial
length of the sample was 25 cm. We used a load of 3 pound for hanging
the sample. After it was hung for 30 seconds, the sample was increased
up-to 32 cm due to weight. We hang it for 30 minutes and then we
relaxed the sample for one hour. After it was relaxed for one hour, it
increased a little bit due to hanging, from its initial length and the new
length after relaxation was 27 cm. As per formula [Stretch%={(Loaded
Length–Initial Length)/Initial Length} × 100], the stretch becomes,
[{(32 cm–25 cm)/25 cm} × 100] or 28%. If we calculate the growth
as per formula [Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/
Initial Length} × 100], the growth becomes [{(27 cm–25 cm)/25} ×
100] or 8%. Therefore, by formula [Recovery%={(Stretched Length–
Length After Relaxing)/(Stretched Length–Original Length)} × 100],
the recovery is [{(32 cm–27 cm)/(32 cm–25 cm)} × 100] or 71.42%.
As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 21% to 30%, the growth
should be maximum 6%, but here growth is more than the standard
that is 8% so it is failing (Table 4).
When we heat set the fabric at 160°C temperature with speed
of 20 MPM having width of 53.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches
practically), then we found stretch 21%, growth 6.4% and recovery was
69.52%. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 21% to 30%, the
growth should be maximum 6%, but here the growth is more than the
standard that is 6.4% so it is failing all the parameters of buyers.
When we heat set the fabric at 170°C temperature with speed
of 20 MPM having width of 53.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches
practically), then we found stretch 19.20%, growth 4% and recovery
was 79.16% which was excellent. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch
is from 11% to 20%, the growth should be maximum 4%, and here
growth is within the range that is 4% so it is passing all the parameters
of buyers.
When we heat set the fabric at 180°C temperature with speed
of 20 MPM having width of 53.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches
practically), then we found stretch 10%, growth 5% and recovery was
50%. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 01% to 10%, the
growth should be maximum 2%, but here the growth is more than the
standard that is 5% so it is failing.
Third party lab testing: After testing internally in Opex and Sinha
Textile Group, for proofing the internal test, the fabric (which passed
all the parameter for a specific heat set temperature) was sent to a 3rd
party lab testing organisation by name Bureau Veritas BD PVT LTD
and measured stretch and growth there and collected the data. The
report number of BV BD is: BVBD17022017. This chart shows the test
report.
Length After Stretch (%) Growth (%) Recovery (%) Result
Relaxation
27 cm 28% 8% 71.42% Fail
26.6 cm 21% 6.4% 69.52% Fail
26 cm 19.2% 4% 79.16% Pass
26.25 cm 10% 5% 50% Fail
Volume 7 • Issue 5 • 1000319
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton
Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319

Page 5 of 9

Chart explanation • Colour: Dark grey.

We sent the fabric to Bureau Veritas BD PVT LTD, which was
heat set at 170°C temperature with a speed of 20 MPM having width
of 53.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches practically). When we tested
for stretch and growth of the fabric, the initial length of the sample was
25 cm. We used a load of 3 pound for hanging the sample. After it was
hung for 30 seconds, the sample was increased up-to 29.80 cm due to
weight. We hang it for 30 minutes and then we relaxed the sample for
one hour. After it was relaxed for one hour, it increased a little bit due
to hanging, from its initial length and the new length after relaxation
was 26cm. As per formula [Stretch%={(Loaded Length–Initial
Length)/Initial Length} × 100], the stretch becomes, [{(29.80 cm–25
cm)/25 cm} × 100] or 19.20%. If we calculate the growth as per formula
[Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/Initial Length}
× 100], the growth becomes [{(26 cm–25 cm)/25 cm} × 100] or 4%.
Therefore, by formula [Recovery%={(Stretched Length–Length After
Relaxing)/(Stretched Length–Original Length)} × 100], the recovery is
[{(29.80 cm–26 cm)/(29.80 cm–25 cm)} × 100] or 79.16% which was
excellent. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 11% to 20%,
the growth should be maximum 4%, and here the growth is within the
range that is 4%, so it is passing all the parameters of buyer’s (Table 3).
Result and discussion
Here it is proved that, lycra without proper heat set is very difficult
to control the stretch and growth. We gave three trial in stenter
machine with temperature of 160°C, 170°C and 180°C. Whenever, we
heated the lycra fabric with 170°C, then all the parameters like stretch
and growth were passed. For proofing our test result, we have done
this test in a 3rd party lab named “Bureau Varitas testing Bangladesh
PVT LTD”, Report number: BVBD17022017, where the parameters
like stretch and growth were also passed. Therefore, we can say that, if
we heat set a non-denim cotton spandex woven bottom weight fabric
of composition 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Solid Dyed 3/1 twill weave
fabric of construction 20 × (12+70D)/136 × 60 at width 53.25 inches
(by stretching 0.25 inches) in stenter machine with 170°C temperature
at 20 RPM then it will pass all the parameters like stretch and growth.
Experiment 03
Fabric details
• Fabrication: 99% Cotton 1% Spandex Solid Dyed Twill
The procedure
Construction of 32 × (32+70D)/190 × 80 of weave 3/1 LHT of
width 52.25-inch fabric is taken for heat setting and applied different
temperature for controlling stretch and growth in a stenter machine.
The standard for stretch and growth is given in the above chart (Table
3) according to buyer. Temperature was also different like 160°C,
170°C and 180°C during trial. After heat setting is done, samples of size
“25 cm × 5 cm” were cut and then hang it for measuring stretch and
growth in testing lab as per ASTM method.
We can find out the stretch and growth by below formula:
Stretch%={(Loaded Length–Initial Length)/Initial Length} × 100
Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/Initial Length}
× 100
Recovery%={(Stretched Length–Length After Relaxing)/(Stretched
Length–Original Length)} × 100.
By applying this formula, we have measured stretch and growth
and have mentioned in the below chart.
Chart explanation
It is seen from the chart that, when we tested for stretch and growth
of a non-heat set cotton spandex woven don-denim fabric, the initial
length of the sample was 25 cm. We used a load of 3 pound for hanging
the sample. After it was hung for 30 seconds, the sample was increased
up-to 32.25 cm due to weight. We hang it for 30 minutes and then we
relaxed the sample for one hour. After it was relaxed for one hour, it
increased a little bit due to hanging, from its initial length and the new
length after relaxation was 27 cm. As per formula [Stretch%={(Loaded
Length–Initial Length)/Initial Length} × 100], the stretch becomes,
[{(32.25 cm–25 cm)/25 cm} ×100] or 29%. If we calculate the growth
as per formula [Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/
Initial Length} × 100], the growth becomes [{(27 cm–25 cm)/25} × 100]
or 8%. Therefore, by formula [Recovery%={(Stretched Length–Length
After Relaxing)/(Stretched Length–Original Length)} × 100], the
recovery is [{(32.25 cm–27 cm)/(32.25 cm–25 cm)} × 100] or 72.41%.
As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 21% to 30%, the growth
should be maximum 6%, but here growth is more than the standard
that is 8% so it is failing (Table 5).

• Construction: 32 × (32+70D)/190 × 80 When we heat set the fabric at 160°C temperature with speed of 20
MPM having width of 52.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches practically),
• Weave: 3/1 LHT then we found stretch 21.4%, growth 6.4% and recovery was 70.09%. As
• Weight: 5.7 OZ/YD2 per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 21% to 30%, the growth should
be maximum 6%, but here the growth is more than the standard that is
• Cut-able width: 52 inches 6.4% so it is failing all the parameters of buyers (Table 6).

Sample Size: “25 cm × 5 cm” Initial Length Length with Length After Stretch (%) Growth (%) Recovery (%) Result
Load Relaxation
Heat Set 170°C, 20 MPM, 53.25" 25 cm 29.80 cm 26 cm 19.2% 4% 79.16% Pass
Table 5: Stretch and growth test in bureau veritas BD PVT LTD, Report number: BVBD17022017.

Sample Size: “25 cm × 5 cm” Initial Length Length with Length After Stretch (%) Growth (%) Recovery (%) Result
Load Relaxation
Without heat set 25 cm 32.25 cm 27 cm 29% 8% 72.41% Fail
Heat Set 160°C, 20 MPM, 52.25" 25 cm 30.35 cm 26.6 cm 21.4% 6.4% 70.09% Fail
Heat Set 170°C, 20 MPM, 52.25" 25 cm 28.45 cm 25.33 cm 13.8% 1.32% 90.43% Pass
Heat Set 180°C, 20 MPM, 52.25" 25 cm 27.75 cm 26.25 cm 11% 5% 54.54% Fail
Table 6: Stretch and growth test is done in sinha textile group, Report Number: STG 08242017-0014.

J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal Volume 7 • Issue 5 • 1000319

ISSN: 2165-8064
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton
Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319
When we heat set the fabric at 170°C temperature with speed
of 20 MPM having width of 52.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches
practically), then we found stretch 13.8%, growth 1.32% and recovery
was 90.43% which was excellent. As per buyer’s standard, if the
stretch is from 11% to 20%, the growth should be maximum 4%, and
here growth is within the range that is 1.32% so it is passing all the
parameters of buyers.
When we heat set the fabric at 180°C temperature with speed
of 20 MPM having width of 52.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches
practically), then we found stretch 11%, growth 5% and recovery was
54.54%. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 11% to 20%, the
growth should be maximum 4%, but here the growth is more than the
standard that is 5% so it is failing (Figures 1-5).
Third party lab testing: After testing internally in Opex and Sinha
Textile Group, for proofing the internal test report, the fabric (which
passed all the parameter for a specific heat set temperature) was sent to
a 3rd party lab testing organisation by name Bureau Veritas Bangladesh
PVT LTD and measured stretch and growth there and collected the
data. The test report number of Bureau Veritas BD is: BVBD16064103.
This chart shows the test report (Table 7).
Figure 1: Stenter machine.
Figure 2: Heat setting process is going on in a stenter machine (Mercerized
fabric).
25 cm
5 cm
Sample fabric in weft direction
Figure 3: Sample cutting standard size for measuring stretch and growth.
J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal
ISSN: 2165-8064
Page 6 of 9
Figure 4: Stretch measurement process.
25 cm
5 cm
Sample fabric in weft direction
Figure 5: Sample cutting standard size for measuring stretch and growth.
Chart explanation
We sent the fabric to Bureau Veritas BD PVT LTD, which was
heat set at 170°C temperature with a speed of 20 MPM having width
of 52.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches practically). When we tested
for stretch and growth of the fabric, the initial length of the sample was
25 cm. We used a load of 3 pound for hanging the sample. After it was
hung for 30 seconds, the sample was increased up-to 28.45cm due to
weight. We hang it for 30 minutes and then we relaxed the sample for
one hour. After it was relaxed for one hour, it increased a little bit due
to hanging, from its initial length and the new length after relaxation
was 25.33 cm. As per formula [Stretch%={(Loaded Length–Initial
Length)/Initial Length} × 100], the stretch becomes, [{(28.45 cm–25
cm)/25 cm} × 100] or 13.80%. If we calculate the growth as per formula
[Growth%={(Length after relaxation–Initial Length)/Initial Length} ×
100], the growth becomes [{(25.33 cm–25 cm)/25 cm} × 100] or 1.32%.
Therefore, by formula [Recovery%={(Stretched Length–Length After
Relaxing)/(Stretched Length–Original Length)} × 100], the recovery is
[{(28.45 cm–25.33 cm)/(28.45 cm–25 cm)} × 100] or 90.43% which was
excellent. As per buyer’s standard, if the stretch is from 11% to 20%,
the growth should be maximum 4%, and here the growth is within the
range that is 1.32%, so it is passing all the parameters of buyer’s (Table 3).
Result and discussion
Here it is proved that, cotton spandex bottom weight woven fabric
without proper heat set is very difficult to control the stretch and
growth. We gave three trial in stenter machine with temperature of
160°C, 170°C and 180°C. Whenever, we heated the lycra fabric with
170°C, then all the parameters like stretch and growth were passed. For
proofing our test result, we have done this test in a 3rd party lab named
“Bureau Veritas testing Bangladesh PVT LTD”, Report number:
BVBD16064103, where the parameters like stretch and growth were
also passed. Therefore, we can say that, if we heat set a non-denim cotton
spandex woven bottom weight fabric of composition 98% Cotton 2%
Volume 7 • Issue 5 • 1000319
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton
Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319

Page 7 of 9

Sample Size: “25 cm × 5 cm” Initial Length Length with Length After Stretch (%) Growth (%) Recovery (%) Result
Load Relaxation
Heat Set 170°C, 20 MPM, 52.25" 25 cm 28.45 cm 25.33 cm 13.80% 1.32% 90.43% Pass
Table 7: Stretch and growth test in bureau veritas BD PVT LTD, Report number: BVBD16064103.

25 cm

5 cm
Sample fabric in weft direction

Figure 7: Sample cutting standard size for measuring stretch and growth.

Figure 6: Stretch measurement process.

Spandex Solid Dyed 3/1 twill weave fabric of construction 20 × (12+70

D)/136 × 60 at width 52.25 inches (by stretching 0.25 inches) in stenter
machine with 170°C temperature at 20 RPM then it will pass all the
parameters like stretch and growth (Figures 6-10).

Changes Due to Heat Set

What actually happened after heating, the spandex inside the
cotton fibre is becoming harder and it is gripping the cotton fibre. As a
result, the lycra cannot be stretched as much as it could before. Prior to
heat set, the yarn was thicker but after the lycra is heated, it is becoming
Figure 8: Stretch measurement process.
thinner and harder. The lycra filament is attaching with the cotton
fibre. And also it is gripping the cotton fibre. The structural pattern of
various materials will be rearranged due to heat-set. Internal tension in
yarn that was generated in spinning or in twisting will be removed and
it will be stabilized, thus it will control stretch. Thermal shrinkage is
also happening due to heat set that is reducing creep, crimp and growth
in normal condition.
Heat setting eliminates the tendency of undesirable torqueing. Figure 9: Due to heat set fibres in the yarns becoming stable.
Heat setting creates the structural change of fibre orientation. Heat
setting also decreases the strength and elongation. It can also be said
that heat setting normally causes restructuring or rearrangement of
fibres and yarns (Figures 11-15).

Time and Temperature Curve

Strength
Whenever we are heating the cotton spandex yarn, the strength
of that yarn at first increasing. After heating for a certain time, then
the strength will not be increased. Then the strength will start falling
down. This is shown in the figure with a curve. Here the straight up
line designates strength and the horizontal or parallel line designates
temperature. The graph also expresses that, strength increases for a
certain time after that it start falling down. This can be expressed with a Temperature
quadratic equation of curve that is, y=ax2+bx+c.
Figure 10: Temperature verses strength curve.
Mathematical Equation
Temperature verses Strength curve can be expressed in standard In the simplest case, Y=constant, (y=c)
form, a quadratic function is written as, y=ax2+bx+c. If a, b, c all are zero (0), then the equation is, y=0x2+0x+0, y=0
We know the quadratic equations with the three coefficients a,b c. If a=1, then y=1x2+0x+0, y=x2.

J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal Volume 7 • Issue 5 • 1000319

ISSN: 2165-8064
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton
Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319

Page 8 of 9

Figure 11: Microscopic view of yarn (Before heat set), 20 × (12+70D)/136 × 60. Figure 14: Microscopic view of yarn (after heat set), 32 × (32+70D)/190 × 80.

Figure 12: Microscopic view of yarn (After heat set), 20 × (12+70D)/136 × 60. Figure 15: Microscopic view of yarn (before heat set), 10 × 10+70D/78 ×50.

Figure 13: Microscopic view of yarn (before heat set), 32 × (32+70D)/190 × 80. Figure 16: Microscopic view of yarn (after heat set), 10 × 10+70D/78 × 50.

If b=2, then y=0x2+2x+0, y=2x
If c=3, then, y=0x2+0x+3, y=3.
Microscopic View
Length wise view
It is clearly noticed in the figure that, before the spandex yarn was
heat set, the protruding fibres were much more visible in the yarn
surface. But after the heat set is done, the protruding fibres goes up.
What actually happened here, during heat setting, the protruding fibres
were burnt by stenter machine through its heated chamber. Heat set
machine provides hot air blow with heavy temperature that removes or
burnt the unwanted fibres of yarn, due to that, the yarns after heat set is
looking much clearer (Figures 16 and 17).
Cross section
We placed the fabric in an electron microscope (Projectina
Microscope DMM 2000) and find the assessment in before and after
heat set. Due to heating, the molecular structure both in amorphous
and crystalline phase is changing. Due to heat-setting, the distance
in between crystalline centres and the number of bonds between
molecules in fibres is decreased. It is said that, the decreased tensile
properties were correlated with more un-oriented chains in amorphous

J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal Volume 7 • Issue 5 • 1000319

ISSN: 2165-8064
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a Cotton
Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000319
Figure 17: Before heat set (yarn cross section).
Figure 18: After heat set (yarn cross section).
and crystalline region, and more irregular yarn structure. This process
of heating, changes the orientation of fibre. Structural change also leads
to the change in strength, elongation subsequently it is affecting the
stretch and growth.
Conclusion
From this total project, we got to know that, heat setting stabilizes
the cotton elastic yarn that controls the elasticity, stretch, growth and
also controls the shrinkage properties of woven fabric. Heat setting of
Citation: Islam S (2017) Investigating an Appropriate Temperature for
Heat Setting in a Stenter Machine to Control the Stretch and Growth of a
Cotton Spandex Woven Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 7: 319. doi: 10.4172/2165-
8064.1000319
J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal
ISSN: 2165-8064
Page 9 of 9
cotton spandex yarns, closely attached the cotton fibre with elastane
which gripped the cotton fibre. It is known to us that, cotton spandex
woven fabrics have a tendency of curling during dyeing and colour
fixation process but if the cotton spandex is heated properly, this
curling problem can also be reduced while controlling growth. Cotton
spandex yarns have a tendency of torqueing due to its rotating force,
but due to hearting properly through the application of hot air blow
from stenter this tendency reduced while controlling growth. It is
also noticed that, the total core structure of yarn was rearranged due
to heating and subsequently it reduced creep, crimp and growth in
normal condition of fabric. Basically, heat setting is deeply connecting
the cotton fibres with spandex, for that reason, elasticity, stretch ability
and growth are coming under control. In final closure we can say that,
this project work can help the textile cotton spandex industry to control
stretch, growth, shrinkage or dimensional stability, elastic recovery
and extension, resiliency, elasticity, shape retention, crease resistance
properties, enhancing strength, pilling performances and also crease
resistant properties.
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