Professional Documents
Culture Documents
109
Im SHOP TALK: Mexx-CEO Thomas Grote über die Umdasch und Assmann servieren zur EuroShop
Zukunft der Weltmarke – Seiten 48 – 49. Leckerbissen à la carte – Seiten 14 – 19.
In Shop Talk: Mexx CEO Thomas Grote on the future Umdasch und Assmann serve treats à la carte
of the world brand – pages 48 – 49. at the EuroShop – pages 14 – 19.
Die nächste Generation der Shopping Center ist urban Shop Report: Die Pyramiden des Elektro Haas –
und wertig – Seiten 6 – 13. The next generation of Seiten 20 – 25. Shop Report: The Pyramids of Elektro
shopping centres is urban and exclusive – pages 6 – 13. Haas – pages 20 – 25.
Inhalt
Contents
SHOP INSIDE
Editorial, Masthead, Reader service 4 – 5
SHOP DESIGN
EuroShop: Treats à la carte 14 – 19
SHOP REPORT
Elektro Haas, Shopping City Süd and Plus City 20 – 25
SHOP PANORAMA
Möbel Hubacher, Intersport Eybl, Kastner & Öhler,
Niketown London, Stockmann, Swisscom, Billa Corso,
Nico, Thalia, Hannspree, Blue Tomato, Eric Bompard,
Pharmacie Riat, Esprit, Orex, Coop City, Dublin Airport Terminal 2 26 – 47
Mit der Eröffnung des SHOP TALK
erweiterten Grazer
Stammhauses am 20. 10. 2010 Thomas Grote on the future of Mexx 48 – 49
schrieb Kastner & Öhler über
die österreichischen Grenzen SHOPFITTING
hinweg Einzelhandels-
Geschichte. Mehr darüber im Encyclopaedia of Shopfitting and Shop Marketing 56 – 59
Shop Panorama auf den
Seiten 28 und 29. RETAIL REPORT
With the opening of the
extended headquarters in Graz Shops & shopping in Düsseldorf and Cologne 60 – 63
on 20.10.2010, Kastner & Öhler
made retail history beyond the SHOP EVENTS
borders of Austria. Read more
about it in Shop Panorama on Umdasch Shop Academy, “Philip Morris on image tour”,
pages 28 – 29 . calendar of events, new books 64 – 67
When it comes to urban planning, the Skyline Plaza between the main station
and the trade fairground in Frankfurt/Main is one of ECE’s most interesting
future projects. The opening of this 38,000 m² shopping centre is planned for
2013 (large photo). Also developed by ECE, the Bahnhofcity Wien West in
Vienna is due to open in autumn 2011 (small photo); the Bahnhofcity at the
new central station in Vienna will follow in 2014.
The economic framework conditions for the retail sector in It is a truism that in the retail sector, it is the location that is
Europe are not as bad as in often claimed. In many countries the decisive success factor. In this respect there will even be a
the retail sector has survived the crisis without major dam- further polarisation, with a concentration on absolute top loca-
age, and in some places it has even served as a motor for tions. “1B locations, not to mention the odd specialist market
the domestic economy. And the medium-term prospects are location, are in danger of collapsing”, says Klaus Striebich,
judged to be quite positive, although a differentiated assess- Managing Director for Leasing with ECE, the European market
ment of the individual markets is necessary. leader in shopping centres in Hamburg. After all, retailers are
mobile; they will go where the location is right.
How will the competition between concrete and digital concepts area). Furthermore, the retail turnover in shopping centres devel-
develop – in other words, between bricks-and-mortar retail and ops better in the long term than in other locations. However, the
online retail? Here, too, Klaus Striebich has an appropriate big boom in shopping centres in countries like Germany and
answer at the ready: “Concepts will be especially successful if Austria is already over. Nonetheless, new projects are still under
they are suitable for a multi-channel approach”. Presence in a development (see also the table of shopping centre openings/
number of channels, especially in the internet as well as a shop, redevelopments). At ECE, for example, malls in Oldenburg (2011),
is precisely what customers expect today. Dortmund (2011), Koblenz (2012), Aachen (2013) and Frankfurt
(2013) are in the pipeline. In Vienna ECE is involved in the railway
Shopping centres continue to gain market shares station shopping centres in Vienna: West Station (2011) and the
new Central Station (2014). As regards Austria, experts assume
Experts agree that the market share of shopping centres, even that the G3 Shopping Resort Gerasdorf in the north of Vienna,
in saturated markets such as Central Europe, will continue to which is due to open in 2012, will be the last inter-regional centre
grow. The reason is easy to see: for the foreseeable future. There
there is still space available for were a number of developments
upward expansion. In the USA in 2010, however. Kaufhaus Tyrol,
the market share is around 60 a very high-quality shopping cen-
percent; in the UK it is more than tre with high-quality architecture
15 percent; and in Germany, for and attractive design, opened
example, it is no more than 7 to in Innsbruck. The 32,000 m²
8 percent (measured by sales Varena shopping centre in
“Concepts will be especially successful Mag. Marcus Wild, CEO of SES: “The
if they are present in several channels,” greatest sustainability can be found
says Klaus Striebich, Managing Director when a shopping centre is located in
of ECE. the right place.”
Opened in August 2010, the SES Varena shopping centre in the Upper Austrian
district capital of Vöcklabruck has exceeded all expectations in the first
months. The Spar sister company SES operates shopping centres with a total
area of 380,000 m².
the regional capital of Upper Austria, Vöcklabruck, is also very In spite of the relatively high existing stock (150 malls with a
impressive. Behind this project lies SES (Spar European Shop- total area of approx. 2 million m²) a further 20 shopping centres
ping Centers). The Donauzentrum in Vienna has expanded its are planned in Switzerland, with an area of approx. 500,000 m².
area by about 30,000 m² to 130,000 m² and is now the second “The number of empty properties in Swiss shopping cen-
largest shopping centre in Austria, after the Shopping City Süd. tres remains marginal. We can assume that spaces in shop-
And there have also been a number of modernisations. ping centres will continue to be highly desirable,” observes
Marcel Stoffel of the office of the Swiss Council of Shopping
Centers. Incidentally, with a productivity of CHF 8,150.-/m² the
Comparison of the development of sales area size
(Germany) Swiss malls achieve a top figure internationally.
2000 = 100 Index of Sales areas: Index of Sales areas:
shopping centres retail stores Focus on revitalisation and modernisation
The former department store Kaufhaus Tyrol (large photo) in Innsbruck was
rebuilt as an elegant inner-city shopping centre. The man behind this project is
the 33-year-old property investor René Benko, who is now also pursuing
ambitious plans in the city centre of Vienna. The Donauzentrum in Vienna was
also extended by 30,000 m² in 2010 and now has a sales area of 130,000,
making it the second-largest shopping centre in Austria after the SCS.
of land in city locations is limited has also resulted in the “trend” conclusion to be drawn from an elegant statement by Thomas
to smaller projects. Whereas in 1998 the average size of a shop- Fox, Chief Restructuring Officer of Karstadt Warenhaus AG, at
ping centre in Germany was 34,000 m², the centres planned up the German Retail Congress in Berlin in mid-November. Fox
to 2012 now have an average area of only 27,000 m². said: “Department stores are shopping centres without walls,
with the best specialists under one roof.”
Some of the shopping centre developers and operators are
currently thinking out loud about whether, and if so, in what The next generation: urban third places
way, potentially available space previously occupied by depart-
ment stores might be used. This is sure to be an exciting devel- Cities are experiencing a renaissance as a form of life and cul-
opment. However, the department stores themselves also want ture. They are continuing to expand and are becoming de facto
to be involved in providing the answers. That, at least, is the a city region. The “decentralisation of the centrality” (quotation
from a GDI study) continues. Several city centres exist side by
side. This increases the competition for inhabitants, visitors,
Shopping Center Ranking 2010 (Austria)
investors and consumers. Artificially staged centres where
1 Europark, Salzburg shopping, experience and urban lifestyle crystallise are created
2 dez, Innsbruck Source: Vienna – “maximum kicks in minimum time”. It is less a question of
3 SCS (mall and multiplex), Vösendorf University of Economics
and Business, Institute
pure shopping, and more a matter of opportunities for socialis-
4 Donauzentrum/Donauplex, Vienna of Retail & Marketing, ing. Places arise in which real and virtual worlds intersect. It
based on a survey of
5 Shoppingcity, Seiersberg occupants (tenants). is in settings like these that the shopping centres of the future
6 PlusCity, Pasching
Survey criteria: will prosper. What will be required will be urban third places,
Turnover, turnover/
7 Millenium City, Vienna m² sales area, no. of which offer constant variety and at the same time give people
shops, appearance and
8 Haid Center, Ansfelden atmosphere, centre and the impression that they can “feel at home”. Living, working,
9 ATRIO, Villach
facility management, leisure and shopping will become fused. A central location is not
rent/ additional costs/
10 Messepark, Dornbirn advertising cost absolutely necessary for this new form of urban living. Thanks
allowance.
to their efficient organisation and intensive management,
shopping centres will find it easier than other locations to create used as a cabaret. Or a gourmet restaurant (“the prestige of a
such worlds. The basic requirement will be the uncompromising shopping centre is defined to a considerable extent through its
orientation towards the wishes of the customer, since this is the gastronomy”). And then there is the nursery school. “Nursery
only way that a unique quality of experience can be created. schools often close at 6.00 p.m. Here it closes at 8.00 p.m. That
relieves the retail employees of a great deal of pressure and
“Every day with your finger on the pulse” stress.” Of course, the customers of the Europark also appreci-
ate this service. The attractive trees, which contribute much to
But how can one create a quality of experience in a shopping the atmosphere, are only possible if you think about them before
centre? How can people experience it as being in their own liv- building starts. Because where will proper trees be able to take
ing room, where visitors become friends? It is, indeed, very hard root? Customers’ length of stay will also increase with plenty of
work, a real struggle over every detail, no matter how small. This fresh air and attractive acoustics.
is the impression Mag. Marcus Wild gives in a fascinating con-
versation. Wild is the CEO of Spar European Shopping Centers
Need for revitalisation of German shopping centres
GmbH (SES) in Salzburg, the biggest Austrian shopping-centre
(by location/position)
operator, and a man with extensive retail experience. A tour
of the Europark in Salzburg, winner of numerous international Location category Shopping centre Share in %
awards and the “flagship” of SES, designed by the Italian star Turnover
Location ... Absolute In m² In m² in %
in %
architect Massimiliano Fuksas, becomes a glimpse behind the
... in the city centre/ 65 1.268,766 32.66 24.23
scenes of successful shopping centres. Easy accessibility, good on the outskirts
links to the public transport network, a generously spacious ... in district 77 2.097,248 38.69 40.05
multi-storey car park, quality architecture, plenty of daylight,
easy-to-follow, transparent route guidance, a garden landscape ... in green belt 57 1.870,945 28.64 35.73
with lots of trees … these features may well be found in other 199 5.236,959 100 100
Overall
shopping centres too. Here it is more the details which we find
(Source: GMA 2010) approx. values; differences may arise due to rounding up or down
surprising. A small theatre, for example, which is permanently
“In order to have your finger on the pulse every day, and to get these innovative concepts into a fully-occupied and successful
feedback every day if possible,” a shopping centre should have shopping centre. A good deal of sensitivity will be required.
the spirit of retail in its genes. At SES, with Spar and the associ-
ated retail experience forming the background, this is certainly The space requirements of sector leaders, for example in
the case. “For us, centres are not short-term speculative prop- sports or book retail, continue to increase modestly (“exper-
erties, but the emphasis is on sustainable quality,” says Wild. tise needs space”). On the other hand, variety is also required,
The same also applies, incidentally, to ECE, where the corporate because customers like to have a choice between large and
structure also means that the company is firmly anchored in the small shops, or between big brands and no-name prod-
retail business. And so it is no coincidence that ECE and SES ucts. And the occasional local hero can have an invigorating
plan to develop activities on the Italian market as partners in the effect too.
form of a joint venture.
Sustainability as a matter of necessity
Name before size
Sustainable development and the sustainable operation of shop-
The “right” blend of tenants remains an essential factor in the ping centres are increasingly being transformed from being a
success of a shopping centre. This starts with the anchor ten- cost factor to becoming a matter of necessity. Sustainable prop-
ants. These were formerly virtually always a consumer market, erty development in the shopping-centre sector is becoming a
large-area sector leaders or department stores. Today it is also standard for investors, project developers, tenants and custom-
a matter, above all of big, attractive names which should not be ers. “The greatest degree of sustainability can be found at the
missing from the cast list. Brands like Apple, Hollister, De igual outset if a shopping centre is in the right location,” observes
or tomorrow’s shooting star, still unknown today, will turn a Marcus Wild, well aware that the subject has many aspects. In
shopping centre into a conversation topic. For this reason, it is any case the SES-Center Europark, Q 19 in Vienna-Döbling and
imperative to recognise innovations and developments in retail ATRIO in Villach have already secured numerous international
and allied fields as early as possible. And once they have been awards when it comes to sustainability, including the ICSC
won over as tenants, it is an additional challenge to incorporate ReSource Award 2008.
Shopping Centres: New openings and rebuilding projects 2011/2012 (Selection: Germany and Europe)
New opening/
Centre Centre type Shops Area in m2 Date of opening
rebuilding etc.
Überseequartier, Hamburg Shopping centre 150 40,000 New 2010/2012
RATIO Land, Baunatal Shopping centre 60 35,000 New Spring 2011
Hofgarten, Solingen Inner city centre 70 30,000 New Spring 2011
Allee-Center, Essen-Altenessen City district centre 80 20,000 Rebuilding Spring 2011
A10 Center, Berlin Regional centre 200 66,000 Rebuilding Spring 2011
Rheinpark-Center, Neuss Regional centre 140 37,300 Revitalisation Spring 2011
Altmarkt-Galerie, Dresden Inner city centre 200 44,000 Extension Spring 2011
Opel-Forum, Rüsselsheim Inner city centre 140 36,500 New Summer 2011
Thier-Galerie, Dortmund Inner city centre 150 33,000 New Autumn 2011
Königsgalerie, Duisburg Inner city centre 50 20,000 Rebuilding/ new Autumn 2011
Main-Taunus-Zentrum, Sulzbach Regional centre 170 91,000 Extension Autumn 2011
Kö-Galerie, Düsseldorf Inner city centre 90 20,000 Revitalisation Autumn 2011
Árkád Szeged, Szeged (HU) Inner city centre 130 40,000 New Autumn 2011
TerraCity, Antalya (TK) City district centre 140 48,000 New Autumn 2011
Bahnhofcity Wien West (A) City district centre 90 17,000 New Autumn 2011
Galeria Kaskada, Stettin (PL) Inner city centre 140 43,000 New Autumn 2011
Nikea Park, Larisa (GR) City district centre 110 28,000 New 2011
Erlenmatt-Galerie, Basel Inner city centre 70 27,000 New 2011
Le Terrazze, La Spezia (I) City district centre 107 38,460 New November 2011
Gropius Passagen, Berlin-Neukölln Inner city centre 180 80,000 Revitalisation 2011
Glacis Galerie, Neu-Ulm Shopping centre 105 25,000 New Early 2012
Arneken Galerie, Hildesheim Inner city centre 90 27,000 New Spring 2012
Boulevard Berlin, Berlin Inner city centre 180 81,000 New Spring 2012
Quartier am Markt, Recklinghausen Inner city centre 90 30,000 New Autumn 2012
Forum Mittelrhein, Koblenz Inner city centre 90 20,000 New Autumn 2012
Neuer Markt, Neumarkt Inner city centre 45 27,000 New Autumn 2012
Höfe am Brühl, Leipzig Multi-functional centre 130 44,400 New Autumn 2012
Centrál, Bratislava Inner city centre 140 33,000 New Autumn 2012
Citti-Park, Lübeck Shopping centre 50 30,000 Extension 2012
(Source: German Council Magazine)
The ECE has even initiated its own research project in the London, Las Vegas, Astana
field of sustainability. After a year of intensive research the
University of Karlsruhe and the ECE presented the first com- With regard to the quality of its shopping centres, Europe has
prehensive book on the subject of sustainability for shopping clearly overtaken the USA. In recent years virtually no new shop-
centres at the Expo Real. It addresses the six main subject ping centres have been completed in the USA which attracted
areas Ecology, Economy, Social and Functional Aspects, the attention of European trend scouts. One exception is the
Technology, Processes and Location in the form of 42 sus- Crystals Shopping Mall at CityCenter in Las Vegas. Designed by
tainability criteria. Of course the ECE also puts these criteria Daniel Libeskind and other high-profile architects, it is a mixed-
into practice in its daily work. use project of gigantic dimensions. The mall is reserved exclu-
sively for luxury brands; you will search in vain here for a casino
Shopping centre density in Europe or gift shops. And that is very atypical of Las Vegas. Instead,
(per m² per 100 inhabitants) the entire mall is dominated by pure elegance. An architectonic
highlight is the modern interpretation of the Spanish Steps in
Sweden
Rome. Thanks to the Westfield Mall, London has become one of
Estonia
the prime addresses in Europe when it comes to shopping cen-
Denmark
tres. And the British capital will continue to improve its image
Austria
on the shopping scene in view of the forthcoming Olympic
Switzerland
Games in 2012.
Slovenia
Finland
Project developers like ECE and SES are cautiously but deter-
Lithuania
minedly expanding their core markets. Further engagements are
Portugal
ultimately dependent on the approval practices in the countries
Spain
concerned. “We go to those places where the basic conditions are
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 right,” insists Klaus Striebich. In addition to the co-operation with
(Source: RegioPlan Consulting) SES in Italy, ECE will also be moving into the Spanish market.
The situation within the CEE area is becoming less fraught. 2010. A transparent tent construction measuring 150,000 m²
Countless projects were brought to an abrupt halt by the crisis. forms the framework for this landmark, which is visible from
Now the cranes are operating again on many of the building afar. Covering an area the size of ten football pitches, the tent is
sites. In many cases the crisis was like a thunderstorm which 150 metres high and contains on five floors a shopping centre,
has cleared the air. “The soldiers of fortune have disappeared; gastronomy oases and a luxurious spa including a swimming
these days projects are being developed in a highly profession- pool with sand from Malaysia. It is claimed that so many guests
al manner,” says Reinhard Winiwarter of the Vienna Location invaded the tropical setting during the first days after it was
Marketing Agency, an expert when it comes to Eastern Europe. opened that since then an entrance fee has been charged in
“However, the markets must be seen in a differentiated manner order to be able to cope with the number of visitors.
because each country operates in a different way,” he warns.
In any case, things are definitely booming again in the gigantic
shopping temples in and around Moscow. “The Russian bear
is dancing again,” comments Mag. Arndt Traindl from Retail
Branding, a consultancy firm with good contacts in Russia.
“There are a number of obvious similarities between excellent and offering guests exciting glimpses of the world of gourmet
cuisine and successful shops. In both cases carefully select- pleasures. The undoubted highlights will be the two gourmet
ed ingredients, creative recipes and professional preparation evenings to be held directly at the stand.
lead to unique results. Cooking wins people over, and so does
inspiring product presentation. Those were the ideas behind our Sustainable shopfitting and professional project
EuroShop concept,” explained Dipl.-Volkswirt Helmut Neher, management
the Executive Director of the Umdasch Concern who is respon-
sible for the shopfitting section. The focal point of the stand, Of course, visitors can also expect to find à la carte quality when
which will cover an area of about 800 m², will therefore be a it comes to shopfitting. Umdasch and Assmann will present
spacious communication area with a “Cooking Arena” in which their current products and service modules in an attractive way
guests will be plied with culinary specialities as well as first- within the two theme areas. One of the major focal points at
hand information. Assmann Ladenbau will be the subject of sustainability. Indeed,
the slogan “We fit out shops. With Responsibility” seems all
On all five days during the fair, Sarah Wiener and her team will the more credible with the current certification according to
be presenting a daily cookery show at 1.30 p.m. The starred ISO 14001:2004. In concrete terms the company will be pre-
chef, famous for her authentic approach, will be passing on tips senting its “Green Shelf”, the shelf with the smallest ecological
The floor area of the stand provides a good overview of the individual contributions of Umdasch and Assmann at the EuroShop.
The main focus of attention is provided by the “Cooking Arena,” in which specialities of various kinds will be served.
The spacious entrance area to the stand of Umdasch and Assmann at the EuroShop.
In the design of the stand emphasis was laid on the use of sustainable materials.
“HangingFrame” is one of the new systems presented by Umdasch Shop-Concept at the EuroShop. Thanks to its understated elegance it is especially
suitable for the presentation of exclusive ranges in the fashion and accessories sector.
published by the Umdasch Shop Academy, will be presented it particularly suitable for the presentation of exclusive ranges in
punctually to coincide with the EuroShop. the fashion and accessories sector.
A further contribution is devoted to the presentation of the serv- Italian Delicacies by AlGate
ice modules “Brand Strategy”, “Brand Design” and “Store Plan- Reduced to the essentials but distinguished, noble and elegant,
ning” by ShopConsult by Umdasch. The team of the consultancy with an exclusive finish – like Italian fashion. This system is also
firm consists of 30 experts from various disciplines located in a good example of variability. It consists of a moulded aluminium
Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Thinking and working within structure and can either be fitted with back elements or used as
a network is part of the daily routine for the ShopConsult staff. an open framework.
The new Umdasch system AlGate is a good example of variability. It consists Variety is the common element linking the StackEasy table programme to
of a moulded aluminium structure and can be used either with or without Japanese culture.
back elements.
Lighting accents by Philips provide an even overall lighting which, together with the strip
lights providing backlighting for areas of translucent concrete
The subject of lighting is of enormous impor- and wood, ensure that the shelving and shopfitting systems
tance in shop presentations, but it is also stand out clearly from their surroundings. In the entrance and
essential for a successful trade fair pres- event areas modular lights with innovative LED technology, con-
entation too. Umdasch has joined forc- cealed in the reception desk, the bar and the show kitchen, cre-
es with Philips as a lighting partner ate subtle but attractive islands of light which attract visitors’
for the EuroShop. Apart from the attention.
basic lighting, lighting solutions
have been developed which Professional performances in various disciplines
reflect the trends in pio-
neering shop lighting. The EuroShop presentation of Umdasch and Assmann was
On the one hand it was developed by the Hamburg-based design agency Syndicate,
To emphasise
the clean lines of
a question of underlin- which was the successful winner of an international ideas com-
the stand architecture, ing the clean lines of petition. The design professionals at Umdasch and Assmann
Philips used the LED-based
eW Cove Powercore cove
the spacious stand were responsible for planning the specific theme contributions.
lighting. architecture. This has Apart from Philips, further famous partners were involved in
been achieved along the the realisation of the stand. These included, for example, Neff
open long sides by means of an LED-based cove lighting which (kitchen equipment), Procedes (gauzes), Team 7 (custom-made
traces and heightens the contours of the stand architecture. On natural wood furnishings in the central area) and terHürne
the two shorter sides, by contrast, a homogenous, overall light- (parquet flooring).
ing effect using linear uplights provides additional accents on the
diagonally positioned logo walls which are covered with trans-
lucent gauze. This provides the overall structure of the stand Links:
with more transparency on the closed sides and thus permits www.euroshop.de www.philips.de
tantalising glimpses of what is happening inside the stand. www.a-la-carte.cc www.procedes.de
www.umdasch-shop-concept.com www.team7.at
At the same time it was important to direct the attention of the www.assmann.at www.terhuerne.de
fair visitors inside the stand specifically towards the fair high- www.shop-consult.com www.neff.de
lights and services. To this end the linear, steerable wallwashers
Wolfgang Pelz in conversation with SHOP aktuell: “We combine the range of
products of the big stores with the service found in the small ones”.
In autumn 2010, Haas opened two stores with sales areas of our expansion would certainly have been difficult,” observes
some 5,000 m² on the former Motor City site of the Shopping Wolfgang Pelz, Managing Director of Haas, who acquired the
City Süd on the southern outskirts of Vienna and in PlusCity electrical goods retailer five years ago together with Josef Gass
west of Linz. Both are prestigious locations in or near success- and Martin Pohl within the framework of a management buy-
ful shopping centres with a high purchasing-power clientèle out. With the two new locations the turnover is expected to
in the catchment area. “Without the bankruptcy of Cosmos double to over € 100 million. This represents a market share
As in the headquarters in Seyring, the Haas concept in PlusCity also operates on two levels.
The panorama picture shows clearly the straightforward store structure and the low-level furnishings in the centre of the store.
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Television Entertainment electronics Television
Video
Accessories
Television
Car HIFI
MP 3 Bose
Entertainment SKY
electronics HIFI
LOEWE
Studio
Customers’ restaurant
LERY Store
GAL
Built-in appliances
Dyson
Show kitchen
Laundry appliances
Kitchen appliances
The third Haas pyramid stands on the Shopping City Süd site as a spacious This is how the Haas pyramid in PlusCity functions. The pyramids have now
entrance for a 5,000 m² sales area on a single level. found their way into the logo too.
here. And the customer restaurant caters to the overall well- and Ing. Gerald Haider and their team made further improve-
being. An upgrade across the board, in fact. ments to the plan developed for Seyring in 2007. While it was
possible to plan across a single level at SCS, at PlusCity it
The little tricks of product presentation was necessary to adapt the concept to two floors. For each
department product-specific “settings” were created, and
As shopfitting partner Wolfgang Pelz once again called on the product-specific advantage for the customer was under-
the services of Umdasch Shop-Concept. Ing. Franz Heinzl lined by the form of the presentation or additional visual
This is what white goods look like if they are presented in a cosy atmosphere.
information. For many articles special units and shelving were customer’s right to this advice is strikingly demonstrated by
developed to enable the customer to get hold of them, also the clearly marked advice centres. The carpeted floor makes
literally. Emphasis was placed on tidy electrical cables on the for a cosy atmosphere, together with soft shades of beige and
presentation units. Order and functioning appliances are thus wood surfaces in Cordoba olive. The lighting design is based
guaranteed even at peak times. on LED units and supports this concept. The lighting mood
can be adjusted by department or seasonally to achieve the
Particularly noticeable in the Haas stores are the low-level desired mood.
units in the centre of the store. This facilitates orientation for
customers and allows them to “navigate efficiently” (a major Worth a story in itself is the record speed with which these two
factor in ensuring that they feel at ease). But the generous projects were executed. In the SCS it took just four months
overview is useful for the staff as well, because the advi- and three weeks, including the alterations to the building. “We
sor can be on the spot quickly whenever he is needed. The only achieved this remarkable feat because we had such a
Special presentation solutions were developed for numerous articles. Here are
some of these stars of professional product presentation.
The prominent advice centres indicate the customer’s right to first-class service.
fantastic team at our side,” says Wolfgang Pelz. At PlusCity it pyramids within a shopping centre like PlusCity. The solution
was a similar story; Haas was only offered the location on the was found in the form of an elegant entrance portal. Here it
Tuesday after Easter. can be seen that the pyramids have now also found their way
into the new Haas logo. And Wolfgang Pelz is secretly think-
Pyramids as a landmark ing about where there might be room for more pyramids in the
Austrian retail landscape.
Pyramids have become the trademark of Haas. In Seyring the
entire building complex consists of two pyramids which are
visible from afar, while the third pyramid (“only slightly smaller
than the Pyramid of Mykerinos, the smallest of the three great
Egyptian pyramids of Giza”) now forms the spacious entrance
to the SCS. It was somewhat more difficult to find space for the
Möbel Hubacher
Room for accents
Infobox
Location: Rössliweg 43
4852 Rothrist
Switzerland
Contact: www.moebel-hubacher.ch
Sales area/ no. of floors: 35,000 m² / 5 (total), 4,500 m² / 1
Opening: October 2010
Sector: Furniture
Planning: ShopConsult by Umdasch, Switzerland
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Switzerland
Shopfitting system: Classic & brand-specific
development
Lighting: Finnor Project
Floor: Fetaxid
Intersport Eybl
Authentic lifestyle worlds
The premium sports retailer Intersport Eybl stands for com-
petence in the breadth and depth of its product range as well
as high quality in both advice and service. Eybl operates 10
megastores and 15 shops throughout Austria. In order to
strengthen its presence in the west, the company opened a
sports store in Hohenems/Vorarlberg. It employs a new life-
style concept that subdivides the POS into individual worlds
of experience (Outdoor, Fashion, Fitness…). The entire store
was optically darkened through the use of floor, wall and
furniture design, which focuses attention on the spotlighted
products.
Infobox
Contact: www.eybl.at
Sales area/no. of floors: 3,047 m² / 2
Opening: October 2010
Sector: Sports
Planning: Umdasch Shop-Concept Planning &
Sales Office, Traun; Intersport Eybl
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Austria
Shopfitting system: Classic, Quadra, Independent
Lighting: Zuchna & Taferner
Authentically staged experience zones make Eybl in Hohenems into a new top
address in Austrian sports retailing.
national flair. The extensive product range in the main store is Planning: Blocher Blocher Partners
Not the individual brands but the style worlds, authentically presented with first-class product images and decorative elements, form the focal point of the
Fashion Department Store.
Niketown London
Brandland no. 1
In the Niketown stores the sports article giant Nike’s inimitable of experience. A glimpse at the recently completed second
feeling for innovation and staging are demonstrated to good and third floors of the Niketown in London shows a consistent
effect. New marketing strategies are tested and pioneering approach in the selection of materials. Black metal sheeting,
trends set. The Niketown concept was born in 1990 in Port- painted to retain its natural colour, and stained antique-look
land. Today about a dozen brandlands are among the stars of oak surfaces have been employed. Many details such as, for
the international retail stage. The re-opening of the Niketown example, basketball lines on the wall and tables with artificial
in London in October 2010 attracted worldwide attention. grass surfaces allow the visitors to immerse themselves in the
For more than a decade the building at Oxford Circus has individually designed sports worlds.
been a magnet for the general public. The complete rebuild-
ing was carried out in stages; together with the fourth sales Infobox
floor which has thereby been created, it has transformed the
Location: Oxford Circus
Niketown in the British capital into the biggest and thus the London W1N 9DS
most important Nike store in the world. The rebuilding forms UK
part of an ambitious expansion strategy.
Contact: www.nike.com
Sales area/no. of floors: 3,600 m² / 4
The US sports article concern demonstrates the current state
Opening: October 2010
of the art in the fields of design and branding through uncom-
promising staging and regular transformations of its worlds Sector: Sports
Planning: Nike Global Brand Design, HMKM
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, UK
Shopfitting system: Carré & brand-specific development
Lighting: Nike Brand Design
Umdasch Shop-Concept is responsible for the entire shopfitting in what is now the
world’s biggest Nike store in London. The attitude towards life of the various sports
disciplines is conveyed in an impressive manner.
Stockmann
Delicatessen with a new look
The headquarters of Stockmann, the traditional Finnish firm in
the heart of Helsinki, offers everything that makes up a depart-
ment store: fashion, cosmetics, books, stationery & office
supplies, pharmacy, banks… The biggest department store in
Scandinavia was modernised and extended in stages over the
past four years. To add the finishing touch, the delicatessen
department in the basement now shines in new splendour. In
addition to an extensive range of fresh and high-quality foods,
new zones were created to house theme-related cuisine and
seasonal specialities. Mid-store units on wheels ensure flex-
ibility in the product presentation.
Infobox
Location: Aleksanterinkatu 52
00381 Helsinki
Finland
Contact: www.stockmann.com
Sales area/ no. of floors: 50,000 m² / 8 (total),
3,700 m² / 1 (Delicatessen)
Opening: September 2010
Sector: Department store / food
Planning: Stockmann Delicatessen
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Austria
Shopfitting system: Brand-specific development
Oak stained and coloured with different finishes, dark grey faced chipboard
and elements in matt and shiny chrome provide a varied appearance.
Swisscom
Pilot projects with wellness effect
Swisscom, the leading telecommunications company in Swit-
zerland, shows its true colours in its own shops as well as in
franchise stores. In order to offer its customers a contempo-
rary shopping experience, the company is currently putting the
finishing touches to its new presentation. The aim is to create
a feeling of wellness by combining current design trends and
“Swissness”. Six test shops were launched onto the shopping
world in 2010, including the store in Aarau in August. After fur-
ther pilot projects in 2011, in which different concept variations
will be tested, a country-wide rollout is to follow.
Infobox
Location: Bahnhofplatz 38
5000 Aarau
Switzerland
Contact: www.swisscom.ch
Sales area/ no. of floors: 75 m² / 1
Opening: August 2010
Sector: Telecommunications
Planning: instinct laboratory
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Switzerland
Shopfitting system: Brand-specific development
Lighting: Delta Line & Light
Billa Corso
Exquisite temple of gourmet
pleasures
Billa is the largest retail organisation within the Rewe Internation- domed rooflights and pillars were restored. Baroque wallpa-
al AG, an umbrella concern which also includes Merkur, Bipa, per patterns and chandeliers recall the history of the build-
Adeg and Penny. With some 1,000 branches, Billa positions itself ing. A high-end material mix creates an exciting interaction
on the Austrian home market as “Supermarket No. 1”. The com- between tradition and modernity.
pany recently became the talk of the town with the opening of
a new flagship store in the venerable Herrnhuterhaus in Vienna Infobox
city centre. The new Billa Corso, as the supermarket chain’s flag-
Location: Neuer Markt 17
ship store is called, sets new standards in food retailing when 1010 Vienna
it comes to design and service. In order to make this branch Austria
into a meeting place as well as a temple of gourmet pleasures,
the inhabitants of the inner city were asked about their wishes Contact: www.billa.at
and expectations. The results – which included changing food Sales area/no. of floors: 990 m² / 3
stations, a gourmet area, a gift packaging service and longer Opening: October 2010
opening times – were included in the design of the new Billa Sector: Food
Corso. And the exclusive range of products, from a comprehen- Planning: Billa, Schaberl Artwork,
sive champagne range to Italian delicatessen and the staff, well Assmann Ladenbau
trained in relevant topics and etiquette, are targeted at a high- Shopfitting: Assmann Ladenbau
income, demanding clientèle. Shopfitting system: Europa & brand-specific
development
Lighting: Molto Luce, Zumtobel
Much attention was paid to a careful treatment of the original
architecture of the historic Herrnhuterhaus. Stucco ceilings,
The new Billa flagship store in the Herrnhuterhaus spotlights the history of the location in an impressive
manner and aims to become a new meeting point in the heart of Vienna.
Nico
Shopping-park première
During the past 50 years Nico has developed into one of the
most successful top addresses in northern Italy. With a prod-
uct range that includes fashion, accessories and shoes for
women, men and children, Nico is positioned in the medium
price and quality category. To date, stand-alone shops with
large sales areas near the city were chosen as locations. By
contrast, the store in Castenedolo is the first to be located in
a shopping park. In spite of its large size, the extensive range
is clearly and neatly presented.
Infobox
Contact: www.nico.eu
Sales area/no. of floors: 3,000 m² / 1
Opening: September 2010
Sector: Textiles / shoes
Planning: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Italy
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Italy
Shopfitting system: Arena Alu, Classic & brand-specific
development
Lighting: Zumtobel
Thalia
Just like home
Thalia, the Number One in general book retailing in the Ger-
man-speaking region, invites visitors to browse and relax in
its 300 shops. The latest store concept takes up prominent
local features both in the design of the range and in the over-
all design. This also applies to the new bookshop in Dorsten.
Literary aspects of the town have been included in the range
and an event programme tailored to suit the region has been
developed. The bookshop as a whole presents itself as a
world of comfort with a lounge, reading corner, dining room,
living room and children’s room in which the customers will
almost feel that they are at home.
Infobox
Contact: www.thalia.de
Sales area/no. of floors: 1,100 m² / 2
Opening: October 2010
Sector: Books
Planning: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Germany
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Germany
Shopfitting system: Brand-specific development
Lighting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Germany;
MyLight
Hannspree
Take One!
Infobox Hannspree is a Taiwanese manufacturer of LCD-TVs and moni-
tors. The company stands for leading technology and distinc-
Location: Westfield, Unit 1068
London W12 7SL tive design. There are virtually no bounds to its creativity − the
UK palette extends from television sets with covers in the shape of
Contact: www.hannspree.com soft toys to monitors integrated into footballs. The company’s
Sales area/ no. of floors: 113 m² / 1
sponsorship of various European football premier league clubs
aims to underline further its positioning as innovative, sporting
Opening: November 2010
and forward-looking. Now Hannspree is conquering the Euro-
Sector: Electrical goods
pean market with its own stores. And so it was a matter of
Planning: ShopConsult by Umdasch, Germany
“Take One!” for the new store concept in November 2010 in the
Complete development: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Germany
Westfield Mall, Europe’s biggest inner-city shopping centre. A
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Germany rollout in further European capitals is planned.
Shopfitting system: Brand-specific development
Lighting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Germany The Hannspree logo, in gleaming chrome and the CI colour,
and the displays integrated into the pillars characterise the
inviting façade design. Inside the shop, the products are dis-
played to good effect in an understated manner on white pres-
entation surfaces with backlit image pictures mounted above.
The eyecatcher is the branded focus back wall to which the
arching Apple presentation niches are connected. The cylindri-
cal lights and the warm oak woodblock flooring round out the
new presentation. The ceiling height of 4.50 metres heightens
the impression of space within the shop.
The new shop concept of the LCD-TV specialists from Taiwan celebrated its
début in the Westfield Mall in London, where it impresses customers with the
professional execution of the store branding.
Blue Tomato
Trendy rendezvous
The Styrian board sports and lifestyle specialist Blue Tomato
is a professional multi-channel player. The company’s founder,
Gerfried Schuller, has built up within the past decade the
world’s largest online boarder shop. The huge demand in the
internet from Vienna and surroundings has resulted in the open-
ing of the first store in Austria. With fashionable labels (Burton,
Nixon, Billabong…), trendy design, information terminals and a
lounge, Blue Tomato aims to win over the boarder scene in the
Austrian capital. The special highlight: the airspace linking all
three floors.
Infobox
Location: Neubaugasse 3
1070 Vienna
Austria
Contact: www.blue-tomato.com
Sales area/ no. of floors: 900 m² / 3
Opening: October 2010
Sector: Sports
Planning: Umdasch Shop-Concept Planning and
Sales Office, Innsbruck; Architect: DI
Gerald Diechler
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Austria
Shopfitting system: Arena & brand-specific development
Lighting: XAL
Floor: ARDEX-Pandomo
Eric Bompard
Elegance at the
highest level
Infobox
Contact: www.eric-bompard.com
Sales area/ no. of floors: 400 m² / 3
Opening: September 2010
Sector: Fashion
Planning: CITTI, Umdasch Shop-Concept,
France
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, France
Lighting: Looom
Pharmacie Riat
New presentation full
of history
Infobox
In its Frankfurt flagship store, Esprit uses a sophisticated lighting system which provides
individual lighting effects for each of the separate style worlds.
Esprit
The Best of
Over 12,000 points-of-sale with a total area of over 1.1 million m² Infobox
and 1,100 own stores: the figures released by Esprit in the
Location: Zeil 121
summer of 2010 show the importance of the global player in 60313 Frankfurt
the fashion business. Recently the lifestyle brand, which is Germany
listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange, has increasingly
Contact: www.esprit.com
invested in its own shops. The re-opening of what is now the
Sales area/ no. of floors: 3,600 m² / 5
world’s largest Esprit flagship store in Frankfurt guaranteed
Opening: September 2010
smiling faces all round. The location on Zeil, in the immedi-
ate vicinity of the MyZeil shopping centre, is considered an Sector: Fashion
Esprit. The existing store was extended by two additional Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Germany
floors and now offers (except for Esprit Sport Men) the entire Shopfitting system: Carré & brand-specific development
fashion range of the global brand, including all accessory Lighting: Ansorg
ranges. In-store decoration: Ben Hur
Orex
Austro-Hungarian splendour
Many Austrians are familiar with the Dorotheum as a pawn-
broker’s shop. However, the long-established firm has also
established itself as a top address for jewellery and watches
under the brand name Dorotheum Juwelier with 28 branches
in Austria. The company expanded into neighbouring Hungary
in 2004 with the purchase of Orex, the leading Hungarian jew-
eller’s chain. A branch of Orex in the main shopping street in
Budapest, the Vaci Utca, was refurbished in autumn 2010. As
in the branches of Dorotheum Juwelier, various constellations
of tables and glass cases serve as the tried and tested means
of presentation for the exclusive items on sale.
Infobox
While eleven famous watch brands are presented on the lower floor,
on the ground floor customers will find the extensive range of Orex
jewellery (see photo).
Coop City
Heaven on earth
Coop, the second-largest detail retail company in Switzerland,
encourages the shopping mood in 33 locations with its Coop
City chain of department stores. St. Annahof is a protected
historic building and is one of their most prestigious stores.
The shoe department there has been redesigned and presents
about a dozen famous brands (Högl, Geox, Gabor…). The
most attractive models are literally brought down from heaven
for customers to try. White lacquer women’s and men’s shoes
float down from cloud-like sails on the ceiling. This highlight
makes creative use of the four-metre ceiling height.
Infobox
Location: Bahnhofstrasse 57
8001 Zurich
Switzerland
Contact: www.coop.ch
Sales area/no. of floors: 242 m² / 1
Opening: August 2010
Sector: Department store / shoes
Planning: ShopConsult by Umdasch,
Switzerland
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Switzerland
Shopfitting system: Brand-specific development
The hovering product presentation, elliptical forms and the decorative oval
framed in high-quality artificial leather characterise the new appearance.
cosmetics, perfumery and spirits. The ceil- Planning: The Design Solution;
Pascall + Watson
ing elements are backlit with coloured LEDs;
General contractor: P. J. Hegarty
together with the light and dark stone
Shopfitting: Umdasch Shop-Concept, Ireland
floors they support the subtly designed
route guidance. Organic shapes domi- Shopfitting system: Brand-specific development
Within a special area the Dublin Travel Retail Store “The Loop” tells the story of the Irish whiskey
tradition as well as displaying select vintages for travellers.
Thomas Grote was greeted by accolades from the American Benz or BMW. The name simply doesn’t have the right magnet-
umbrella company Liz Claiborne. “Thomas Grote is better quali- ism for that. After all the muddle of the past years, sometimes
fied than anyone else to take on the challenges at Mexx. He is young, then exclusive again, for us “Metropolitan Casual” is quite
a marketing and product-oriented CEO and has a great deal of definitely at the centre of our design development once more.
experience in the retail and wholesale sectors”, was the comment
in a message. The native of Westphalia, now 47 years of age, You made a comparison with cars and you named middle-
gained his first experience in a textile company at home in Stein- class brands – quite intentionally, I am sure. You see your-
furt. His rapid ascent of the career ladder at Esprit began when self positioned in the middle, but that means you want to
he was 25. A short interlude occurred when he joined the fashion be at the top of the middle?
brand “InWear”. In 1996 Grote returned to the Esprit headquarters
in Ratingen to take charge of women’s wear. In 2006 he became Yes. Traditionally, Mexx was always a good brand in the mid-
CEO. And in 2009 came the change from Esprit to Mexx. dle, as we could put it. A brand that wants high sales volumes
but which also provides its customers with a good image and
What are the main reasons when a brand loses its magnet- high prestige. But we are not Prada, we’re not Gucci and we are
ism to the extent that Mexx did? not H&M either. People used to say, irrelevantly, well, anyone in
the middle has a problem. To be honest, I see that quite differ-
In our case the reason was clearly that over the years there ently. We can observe all over the world that the middle class will
had been a marked deterioration of performance. The com- always remain strong. There are enough people who want to pay
pany neglected its target customers and continued to design a fair price, but who are merciless when it comes to demanding
the products that it wanted to sell without any consideration quality. We have to be so good that our quality is comparable
for its target customers; and what is more, the products no with BMW but we only demand the price of a Volkswagen.
longer matched up to the expected quality. I would compare it
like this: if a car manufacturer which is a “Shining Star” today The new purple logo is a very noticeable element in the new
suddenly starts to produce only cars which grind to a halt at Mexx presentation. What does it stand for and what other
the next corner, then the brand will very quickly fail. In the case changes are visible and tangible?
of Mexx, after the exit of the founder Rattan Chadha there was
a gradual loss of product culture, product philosophy and a It is obvious that we have to change our entire business mod-
culture of quality. el as regards product development, organisation, sourcing, in
other words everything surrounding the product itself. The sec-
What is the new target positioning of Mexx as a brand and ond point is that we have to design our image again to make it
where are the biggest changes? fresher, newer, more inviting. Nothing has been done for the past
15 years. There are designer brands which are black or grey.
We haven’t really done anything except to position the brand And then, in the commercial segment, there are Zara and Mexx,
back where it became famous. In the late 1980s and early 1990s and they are black or grey too. And then there is the red group;
Rattan Chadha created the style known as “Smart Casual”, a that includes Esprit, S.Oliver and H&M, which are more casual
combination of leisure fashion and office look. Today we call it brands. And then there are the greens, which means Springfield,
“Metropolitan Casual”, because we decided that “Smart Cas- Benetton etc. And there are blue brands like GAP, Tom Tailor and
ual” is now a term which everyone uses. And Metropolitan is Banana Republic. And I said to myself, really it would be a good
really only a more glamorous word for “City” or for “Smart”. idea strategically if we had a colour of our own. And so we said,
We thought the expression “Metropolitan Casual” was so good the colour of Moustache was blue and the colour of Emmanuelle
because it has not been used until today. But it doesn’t mean was red. And then we said, let’s just mix the two and find a pur-
anything different from our original positioning. I should like to ple colour. Purple is not used very frequently in our retail sector.
draw another comparison with the automobile industry. If Opel And so we decided to take purple as our colour and it sparked
wants to be successful it simply has to build better cars than VW off a huge positive response. And at the same time we made the
and Toyota. The goal is not suddenly to compete with Daimler lettering more dynamic and developed a clear visual language
and a clear marketing concept. The current campaign is an Nowadays, if you want to supply and operate franchise stores,
important part of it, in which we communicate our look clearly partnership stores or shop-in-stores sensibly, you need to be a
through good personalities. At the start it was Heike Makatsch. good retailer yourself. And so for the first time we have changed
The feedback is fantastic, the styles from the campaign are sold the entire purchasing and inventory management model in such
out; the products are gone. a way that it is really is focused on efficient use of space for
all 365 days a year, all the year round. What still often happens
How do you translate the term “Metropolitan Casual” in in the industry is that so-called wholesale companies basically
the shop? offer 6 or even 4 collections and they are not geared towards
purchasing patterns. For example, if – as in the past – I deliver
Our starting point was that we said, if we can be “Metropoli- 80 % of my outdoor products, in other words my jackets, in July
tan casual” and our customers look like that, how would our and August, then I can work out that in October or November the
customers live and where would they want to be? And then we products will be old. And then the customer has already seen
throught of the names of metropolises like Berlin, Barcelona and the products 25 times. Or the products are sold out or they have
New York. And from that arose the central idea of the loft, which to be sold at a reduced price, which is even worse. So now we
we have carried through in our new presentation, consistently have arranged things so that our products each month really
and in all its facets, from the solid wooden door at the entrance are organised to suit the retail situation, in line with the sales
to small but important details in the product presentation. curve. And the number of style developments is also governed
by sales. In months when the turnover is high we have larger col-
How intense is the product concentration? lections than in months when it is lower.
Of course there are locations where one has to show more prod- Is there an ideal size for your shops in the case of shop-
ucts and others where fewer products are called for because the in-shops ?
productivity is different. But basically we have 25 items on show
per square metre. Then we are also in a position to achieve a cor- The best size for us to occupy is an area between 400 and 600
responding turnover. Of course the product supply is an ongoing square metres. Then we can stock it with men and women’s
process, that is to say we create 12 collections per year which fashion, accessories and shoes. In absolutely top locations it
are delivered every two weeks. In practice, in fact, every shop could be as much as 1,000 square metres. For franchise shops,
receives new products every week. And if everything is sold by for examples only women’s fashion, even around 200 square
then, then other styles are brought forward to fill the space. How- metres can also be a good size.
ever, we do have a clear zoning system, which means that the
latest products are usually at the front of the store. Then, when
the products are older after a month or so, they move through
the store towards the back.
The relaunch of a
world brand
START 01 STORE CHECK
BRAND STRATEGY
Typical development of a Store Branding Process. (Source: ShopConsult by Umdasch) 02 Market analysis
The product philosophy “Metropolitan Casual Lifestyle” is the central message at Mexx. A loft ambience provides the ideal stage.
The wooden floors and partially open ceiling are typical.
The fashion label Mexx carried out a wide-ranging brand relaunch in 2010. The new concept was introduced
during the summer in the Rhein Center in Cologne-Weiden. SInce then a number of other shops, including
those in Vienna, Hamburg, Stockholm, St. Petersburg and Brussels, have opened in the new style. The new
presentation is to be gradually transferred to the entire Mexx universe. SHOP aktuell has studied what lies
behind the relaunch and how consistently and professionally the branding has been developed and realised.
04 Product range
Box shelving is a typical sales unit at Mexx. When cleverly divided up it is ideal for the presentation of accessories.
The real birth of Mexx can be traced back to 1986. That was started his new job in the Amsterdam headquarters of Mexx
when Rattan Chadha amalgamated the brands Moustache in October 2009 (see also SHOP TALK on pages 48/49). He
(men’s and boys’ suits) and Emanuelle (women’s wear), which located the real weak spots in both products and presenta-
had been launched in 1980 with two kisses (symbolised tion. He has brought together a new, dynamic team to man-
by XX), and renamed the brand Mexx. The company expand- age the brand relaunch.
ed rapidly over the next 15 years from its base in the Nether
lands, establishing itself in a number of other countries and “There must be not even a hint of shopfitting”
creating various additional product lines. In 2001 the US
clothing corporation Liz Claiborne took over Mexx Interna- Mexx entrusted the store branding of the new concept to the
tional BV. In 2003 the first Mexx shops were opened in the consultancy firm ShopConsult by Umdasch. The new product
United States. At the end of 2006 Mexx founder and CEO Rat- philosophy laid down the “Metropolitan Casual Lifestyle” (as a
tan Chadha withdrew from the operative business. Not least central statement) and the new CD in the form of a striking pur-
through the withdrawal of Chadha, the product culture, prod- ple which from now onwards will be carried through Mexx com-
uct philosophy and culture quality disappeared. The brand’s munication as a leitmotif. Moreover the new presentation is not
glamour faded. The company turnover collapsed by about to be seen as just any system shop, but as an individual and
a third and was listed for the business year 2009/2010 at very personal boutique with charm. Under no circumstances
US$ 832 million. In this difficult situation Liz Claiborne brought should there be even a hint of classic shopfitting. That, at least,
in Thomas Grote, a proven brand professional, as CEO. Grote, is how Ansgar Hellmich, Vice President Global Architecture at
equipped with wide-ranging powers and a great deal of trust, Mexx, put it.
BRAND DESIGN
07 Mood concept 09 Detailed planning
The actress Heike Makatsch is the face of Mexx in 2010/2011. Her presence
is ideally suited to the style of the Metropolitan Casual collections.
A glance at the development of the mood concept shows the meticulous care with which the store branding for Mexx was designed.
Modern urban architecture formed, for example, the background for the design of the till area.
Shelving made of water pipes must also be adaptable to suit the various area requirements.
The size ranges from shop-in-shops, through pure women’s
The design of the sales furniture shows the same attention to fashion shops (approx. 200 m²), full-range shops (approx. 600
detail. The basic product line was developed using water pipes m²) to flagship stores (1,000 m² and more).
which are used either standing or suspended. Clamps are used
to adjust the height. In the accessories area specially designed “In order to ensure that the concept really acquires its own indi-
wire hooks have been used. The tables in the central area, with viduality, a harmonious warmth and atmosphere, we use dif-
the addition of benches, are mobile and can thus be used in a ferent lighting levels in addition to the overall lighting to create
flexible manner. The formats and surfaces vary. Sometimes they an almost dramatic mood. The focus thereby remains on the
are plain and rectangular and sometimes ornate and oval, and products. For example, we focus a spotlight on a T-shirt, which
sometimes they are equipped with light-coloured legs or ribbed then really shines. And then it tails off again a bit before the
glass panels. “Although the project does not look anything next highlight comes”, was how Ansgar Hellmich explained the
like shopfitting now, nonetheless a certain modular approach important lighting concept realised by RZB. The details include
was used when we were planning the units. Because it is also specially created spotlights with a metal shade, clamp lights
important that they can be produced at low cost”, was how with iron flexes and various decorative lighting. Power-saving
Maik Drewitz explained his deliberations. After all, the concept 35-watt CDM lighting is employed.
STORE PLANNING
15 Preliminary design store 17 Consent planning
It is often the many little details in particular which transform an ordinary shop into a loft atmosphere.
In addition to the colour purple with the “dynamised” logo, Broad range of services
in future an appropriate face is also to become a recognition
feature of Mexx. Für the collection 2010/2011 it is the popu- In addition to the development of the brand design, Shop
lar actress Heike Makatsch. Her presence makes her a highly Consult by Umdasch supplied a very wide-ranging palette of
credible representative of the Metropolitan Casual Style. Pho- services for Mexx in the shop planning sector within the frame-
tos of Makatsch adorn the shop windows and shops in promi- work of this store branding process: detailed planning of the
nent positions and she also presents the collection in a manner furnishings, compilation of a store book, detailed design for the
which is sure to encourage sales in the brochure ME+XX. The store, co-ordination of the aroma and lighting concepts, area
styles from the campaign sold out very quickly. Equally posi- planning, quantity calculations for products, drywall construc-
tive are the reactions to the relaunch of the brand as a whole tion, planning of the painting and electrical works, construction
and Mexx will soon be back in the fast lane again. The aim is management of the architectonic works and façade planning.
to return Mexx within the next few years to the position which The shopfitting partner for these projects was Jonas Ladenbau
the brand once occupied: at the head of the European casual in Oberhausen.
and lifestyle brands.
Shopfitting, or shop construction, has always been a complex, as possible. The number of disciplines involved in shop con-
interdisciplinary task. Professionals from a wide range of fields struction continues to grow. Think of new topics such as neuro-
work together in order to design and build as perfect a shop marketing, shop dramaturgy, store branding and multi-channel
retailing. And then there are the longer-established specialist listed or the umbrella terms for shopfitting systems explained.
areas and trades such as architecture, shop design, shop light- There is also an overview of important events and specialist
ing, business type and location development, project manage- publications for the retail sector. Readers will also find a com-
ment, POS marketing, visual merchandising and of course plete list of the members of the Deutscher Ladenbauverband
shopfitting and shop marketing. Knowledge and information (dlv – German shopfitting network). Overall the book is very
about these specialist fields are mostly conveyed within the attractively illustrated.
disciplines themselves. There are virtually no interdisciplinary
publications. Top-class authors
The “Encyclopaedia of Shopfitting and Shop Marketing” aims In the second part, containing the specialist essays, the occa-
to provide a source of information and assistance with ori- sional controversial topic is tackled. For example, the continu-
entation for all those involved in the planning and execution ously growing influence of online retailing on the bricks-and-
of retail concepts and/ or shop investment. The encyclopae- mortar shopping world or the necessity for combining digital
dia section covers terms from the specialist areas described and physical concepts. Contributions on the subject of shop
above – from “1-A location” to “second public offering”. The architecture come from the two top retail design addresses in
publisher has had the courage to leave certain gaps and con- Germany: Schwitzke & Partner and Blocher Blocher Partners.
centrates above all instead on those terms from the individual And of course the subject of Green Design has been included.
disciplines which are especially relevant for the core subjects The top-class authors, many of whom belong to the network of
shopfitting and shop marketing. For some keywords there are lecturers of the Umdasch Shop Academy, cast light on the vari-
detailed tables providing additional information. For exam- ous topics from their own personal point of view, sometimes
ple the future prospects of selected types of business are contradicting each other. That is certainly the intention of the
presented in a very clear manner, selected retail key figures publisher, in the interests of a lively discussion.
Retail is synonymous with change, and will continue to be so. In The shop price of the “Encyclopaedia of Shopfitting and Shop
this respect the meaning of terms and topics will change in the Marketing,” produced by the Umdasch Shop Academy and pub-
short to medium term. Therefore the “Encyclopaedia of Shopfit- lished by Callwey, is € 49.95. Subscribers to SHOP aktuell who
ting and Shop Marketing” is not a finished book, but a snapshot of order via the e-mail address shop.aktuell@umdasch.com will pay
a continuous process. It is planned that the encyclopaedia should a special price of € 35.-- (plus VAT, postage and packing). For
be revised every three years, on the occasion of the leading global participants at the events and seminars of the Umdasch Shop
fair of the shopfitting sector, the EuroShop. With the latest terms Academy a special price is also available. The Encyclopaedia is
from the world of the retail and shopping business and with new, currently only available in German.
exciting contributions by international experts.
As a trade-fair centre, Düsseldorf is regarded as a top shopping the work is finished the mall, which first opened 25 years ago,
centre and as one of the most elegant cities in Germany. A tour will house about 90 shops, cafés and restaurants on three levels
of the city centre shows the variety and range of market positions and over a sales area of some 20,000 m².
occupied by the shops. The eye-catching starting point of our
shopping tour is Galeria Kaufhof at Königsallee 1. The sandstone Not far from the Kö-Galerie we can take the Grünstrasse
façade of the six-storey building dating from 1909 still radiates entrance to the Stilwerk theme centre, where some 45 special-
the glamour of past times today. ist shops relating to the subjects
Inside, the latest Galeria concept of design and furnishings will be
of the department store concern found. Behind its airy-looking,
has been consistently carried out 1 transparent glass façade, five
and developed. On the occasion 4 levels of shops are grouped
3
of the EuroShop 2011 Galeria 10 2 around an atrium with galleries
Kaufhof is presenting itself with in an elegant elliptical form.
unusual shop windows deco- 9
rated with topics illustrating this On our way back to Galeria
major event. 11 12 Kaufhof we should cross to the
other side of the Königsallee on
8 5
Before we dive into the Königs the level of Königsstrasse. Here
allee, Düsseldorf’s fashion- 6 many of the buildings are banks,
able promenade, let us make a but we will also encounter a
detour to the Schadow-Arkaden 7 number of interesting niche con-
and into Schadowstrasse. cepts. Milian fuses art, archi-
Nominated by the ICSC as the tecture and fashion to create a
best inner-city shopping mall futuristic aesthetic experience.
© Stadt Düsseldorf - Vermessungs- und Liegenschaftsamt - Lizenz Nr.: 9 2011
in Europe in the 1990s, today Fashion from Maison Martin
Our tour in Düsseldorf: (1) Galeria Kaufhof, (2) Mayersche
the Schadow-Arkaden provide Buchhandlung, (3) Schadow-Arkaden, (4) Peek & Cloppenburg, Margiela and Demeulemeesters
“consumer-oriented” variety (5) Sevens, (6) Kö-Galerie, (7) Stilwerk, (8) Bankenseite, (9) Jades, to Yoji Yamamoto complement
(10) Carsch-Haus, (11) Carlsplatz, (12) Benrather Strasse.
for a wide range of tastes. The the German designer Annette
architectonic highlight among Görtz’s own collection. Fools-
the retail properties on Schadowstrasse is the 14,000 m² fash- gold is a unique jeweller’s shop which presents the work of
ion house Peek & Cloppenburg. An abundance of glass and international artists in a sophisticated setting. In two stores
spacious departments make the six-storey store a premium facing each other on Heinrich-Heine-Allee, Jades presents a
design fashion centre. wide-ranging selection of contemporary international fashion
trends.
At the intersection of Schadowstrasse and Königsallee, let us
decide in favour of what must be the most famous shopping Beyond Heinrich-Heine-Allee the main flow of shoppers, espe-
street in Germany. A “Königsallee” address is worth its weight cially the younger ones, heads straight ahead towards the Old
in gold for the corporate image, especially for exclusive and Town. Flingerstrasse is a narrow, bustling pedestrian zone
fashion brands like Armani, Chanel, Gucci, Jil Sander, Louis which houses the shops of the well-known brands which the 15
Vuitton and Prada. The handful of long-established family to 35-year-olds like to wear. At the beginning of Flingerstrasse
firms which still maintain their position on the “Kö” include the stands the Carsch-Haus with its neo-classical façade. Seen
luxury fashion store Eickhoff and Franzen, a specialist shop from the outside, the four-storey premium department store
for tableware, decoration and home accessories. modestly understates its real size.
The beginning of 2011 saw the start of a rebuilding phase which Here, at the interface with the Old Town, we should ignore the
will last for several months for the Sevens shopping mall. Some ubiquitous fashion chains and head instead towards Carlsplatz
of the 40 shops across seven sales levels will remain and many in search of individual shop concepts. Jaspers, for example,
interesting new labels will be joining them. In spite of the rebuild- presents labels like Kuichi, Elliot Men, Matta and Tigha in a warm,
ing it is worth taking a look at the passages, if only because of rustic setting. Identitá Italiana is the top address in Düsseldorf
the unique architecture of the building. It is also “business as for collections of labels like Patrizia Pepe and Woolrich. We can
usual” at the Kö-Galerie, in spite of the current rebuilding. Once also take in Loud and Apropos, two noteworthy stores in the
avant-garde category on Benrather Strasse, before turning back Opened in 2009, the almost 1,000 m² flagship store of Tommy
along Benrather Strasse in the direction of Königsallee. Hilfiger focuses on unusual decorative ideas. Examples include
an aircraft suspended in the children’s department and chan-
Cologne – metropolis on the Rhine deliers made of cables and microphones in the denim section.
Outstanding among the shoe shops on Schildergasse is the
Cologne, just 40 kilometres to the south of Düsseldorf, offers 3,000 m² store of the Austrian chain store Humanic. Diagonally
not only cultural history from two millennia, but can also claim opposite, the vertical-merchandising women’s fashion chain
– as the main centre for a region with three million inhabitants from Munich, Hallhuber, has recently opened its third store in
– a varied and dense retail scene. A stroll through the shopping Cologne.
scene of Cologne starts on Hohe Strasse – the oldest pedes-
trian zone in Germany – and then leads via Schildergasse to The centrally located Neumarkt-Galerie at the other end of
Neumarkt, from there into Breite Strasse and Ehrenstrasse and Schildergasse is the classic starting point for a leisurely shop-
on into the “Belgisches Viertel”. ping tour for most Cologne citizens because of its connections
with the tram and underground network. The main attraction
On Hohe Strasse you will find all the fashion stores which deter- of the shopping mall built in the 1990s on the site of the former
mine the tastes of young shoppers, such as H&M, Zara and Hertie department store is the vast Mayersche Buchhandlung.
New Yorker. New additions here The concept of the depot store,
are, for example, Review, an which extends over 900 m²,
own label for young casual fash- consists of a house-in-house
ion from P&C West, which since architecture with alternating
2008 has also been expanding 12 lifestyle settings and closely
with mono-brand stores in the packed product presentation.
wake of their shop-in-shops. Designer fashion at rock-bottom
prices is the business model of
At the intersection of the two 11 the fashion discounter TK-Maxx
shopping streets Hohe Strasse in a top pedestrian location
and Schildergasse stands the 10 on Neumarkt. Customers can
flagship store of Galeria Kauf- use a shopping trolley to col-
hof. Its sales area of 36,000 m² 7 lect up the items from bought-
9 8 6 3 5
makes it the biggest department 2 4 up stock across 3,400 m² and
1
store in the cathedral city. The three floors. Opened in 2006,
Italian architect Renzo Piano set the branch of the outdoor spe-
a milestone of retail architec- cialist Globetrotter in the Oli-
ture for Peek & Cloppenburg. vandenhof is a “lighthouse” on
© Kommunale Geodaten: Stadt Köln, Amt für Liegenschaften, Vermessung und Kataster, KT 2011/001
Opened in 2005, the “Welt Cologne’s retail scene. To arrive
On tour in Cologne: (1) Galeria Kaufhof, (2) Peek & Cloppenburg,
stadthaus” recalls a glass whale (3) C&A, (4) Jeans Palast Görgens, (5) Gina Tricot, (6) Humanic, at its 7,000 m² sales area Globe-
with its vast 5,500 m² elongated (7) Neumarkt Galerie, (8) Mayersche Buchhandlung, (9) Depot und TK trotter rebuilt a former shopping
Maxx, (10) Olivandenhof, (11) Ehrenstrasse, (12) “Belgisches Viertel”.
and arched glass façade and centre which previously housed
“wooden ribs”. Across a sales 60 individual shops.
area of 14,400 m² the store presents a broad fashion mix of
almost 300 brands. On the other side of the street, the fash- At the exit from the Olivandenhof we enter Breite Strasse
ion house C&A celebrated the re-opening of its biggest branch and follow it into Ehrenstrasse towards Ringe. Interesting
with a sales area of some 13,000 m² just a few weeks ago. The new openings include True Religion Store, the first German
main features of the new store design are the segmentation monolabel store of the US premium jeans brand, Weekday, a
into so-called style worlds and a new, trend-oriented colour progressive urbanwear concept from the H&M concern and
concept. Estella Kochlust, a concept store focusing on cooking and
gourmet pleasures. The shop, which was awarded the Ger-
The 2,000 m² cult branch of the Görgens group embodies man retail prize as “Store of the Year” in 2010, sells design-
modern urban style in fashion retail. The entrance to the former oriented cooking utensils and stages cooking parties after
Wehmeyer-Haus cannot be missed although it is slightly set closing time.
back from the road. Modern LED technology illuminates the
entire width of the entrance and points the way for the mostly Beyond the Kölner Ringe, the “Belgisches Viertel” has recently
youthful clientèle. The Swedish fashion brand Gina Tricot has developed into a district for young and unusual Cologne fashion
also just opened its first German branch on Schildergasse. (www.chicbelgique.de) and individual niche concepts.
© iStockphoto.com/Hanquan Chen
(Shop Dramaturgy LIVE!) of the sightseeing tour will
have already become a tra- be Treasure Island, Caesar’s
dition and are extremely Palace incl. Forum Shops,
popular. And now another Bellagio, Mandalay Bay,
première is about to take Venetian incl. Grand Canal
place: from 25 − 29 May Shoppes and the extension
2011 the destination will be The Palazzo, The Wynn with
the dynamic Chinese busi- the extension Encore and
ness metropolis Shanghai, last but not least the new city
which in 2010 was the set- centre with the Crystals mall,
ting for the World Exhibition. designed by star architect
Dr. Christian Mikunda and Daniel Libeskind.
Mag. Denise Mikunda-Schulz
have planned for Shanghai Detailed programmes and
a magical journey back in enrolment information are
time through the history of shopping. and product images and the unusual already available for both shop expedi-
entertainment in the “Bund Sightseeing tions and for “In 18 Tagen um die Welt”
The shop expedition will show in four Tunnel”. The base camp for participants (Around the Shopping World in 18 Days).
stages how the art of staged product will be the Grand Hyatt, the hotel with the You can obtain further information from
presentation has developed. The stages most spectacular views in Shanghai. Regula.Wirth@umdasch.com (Tel. 0041/
are entitled “The product is the hero”, 62 737 2520), from Sonja.Scheidl@
“Keeping up appearances”, “The new From 20 − 24 October 2011 “Laden- umdasch.com (Tel. 0043/7472 605 1957)
worlds of experience” and “Sales as an art Dramaturgie LIVE!” will set off again to Las and on the website www.umdasch-shop-
form”. All the important shopping streets, Vegas. Nowhere else can one see more concept.com (Shop Academy).
shops and malls of Shanghai will be vis- clearly the complete fusion of shopping,
ited. The group will also study the rela- gastronomy and entertainment. Because
tionship between Chinese garden design of the additional attractions this shop
* Ladenpreis: € 49,95. ISBN 978-3-7667-1880-8. Format 17 x 24 cm, gebunden, 304 Seiten. Lieferbar ab 26. 2. 2011.
Sonderpreis für Abonnenten des internationalen Fachmagazins SHOP aktuell: € 35,00 zzgl. MwSt., Porto und Versandkosten.
(Bestellungen über shop.aktuell@umdasch.com oder www.umdasch-shop-concept.com)
www.umdasch-shop-concept.com
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Umdasch Shop-Concept and the Umdasch Shopfitting Group are also available in the following planning and sales offices as well as at the following locations (selection). Austria: Vienna, Traun/
St. Martin, Innsbruck, Leibnitz. Switzerland: Münsingen (Berne), Renens (Lausanne). Germany: Hamburg, Oberhausen, Monheim, Bamberg. Italy: Parma, Milan. Norway: Oslo, Stavanger. Slovenia:
Zgornja Polskava. Croatia: Zagreb. Serbia: Belgrade. Poland: Warsaw. Russia: Moscow. Canada: Toronto. USA: New York, Newport Beach/CA. And wherever else your business takes you!