Ruby Mills - Priya, Nihaarika, Joushita and Anamika

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
CHENNAI
A STUDY ON TECHNOLOGY OF YARN AND FABRIC MANUFACTURING
AT
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
Submitted by:
PRIYA B BALURKAR,
NIHAARIKA KAPOOR
JOUSHITHA NARAYANA
ANAMIKA PANDEY
DECLARATION
We (Priya B Balurkar, Nihaarika Kapoor, Joushitha Narayana, Anamika Pandey) from Apparel
Production Semester 5 hereby declare that the textile internship report submitted to the
department of fashion technology ,NIFT, Chennai as a part of my academic requirements is an
original work done by us under the guidance of Mr. Murugan Thangaraj DFT. NIFT, Chennai
(Mentor)
Mr. Murugan Thangaraj
Assistant Professor
DFT, NIFT, Chennai

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AKNOWLEDGEMENT
We wish to thank the vice president of the Ruby mils for arranging this internship at premier
spinning and weaving mills. We would like to express our gratitude to Mr. RO Singh and Mr. Nair
for his support, as a mentor and motivator for this feedback. I would like to extend my thanks to
all staff members and operators, for their patience and clear answers and explanations. We are
particularly grateful to all the general managers of all the departments for guiding us.
A word of gratitude is also extended to all the employees at the staff quarters, for sharing their
material and time with me even after mill hours. We would also like to thank Mr. Murugan
Thangaraj, NIFT, Chennai, for guiding me throughout the course of the internship.
We greatly appreciate the sincerity, dedication and courage of all the brilliant people at Ruby
Mills. Their company was a constant source of hope and inspiration for us.
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CONTENT
 Objective of internship
 Introduction
 Company profile
 Organization flow chart of the company
 Spinning
i. Process flow
ii. Raw material
iii. Blow room
iv. Carding
v. Sliver lap
vi. Ribbon lap
vii. Combing
viii. Draw frame
ix. Roving
x. Ring frame
xi. Winding
xii. Conditioning
 Weaving
i. Warping
ii. Sizing
iii. Drawing In
iv. Loom - 1.Rapier loom
2. Air jet loom
v. Fabric Inspection
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 Preparatory process
i. Grey department
ii. Singeing + desizing
iii. Souring
iv. Continuous bleaching range
v. Mercerizer machine
 Dyeing department
i. Jet dyeing
ii. Jigger dyeing
iii. Thermosol dyeing
iv. Soft flow dyeing
v. Washing and drying machine
 Finishing department
i. Stenter
ii. Curing
iii. Calendering
iv. Raising
v. Shearing
vi. Sanforizing
vii. Woven fusing
 Quality control and testing
i. Uster tester
ii. Warp reel
iii. Lea yarn strength tester

iv. AFIS pro
v. High volume instrument
vi. Yarn Twist Tester
vii. Yarn appearance board

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 Fabric testing
i. Crockmeter
ii. Fabric Tear Strength Machine
iii. Pilling test
iv. Peel bond test
v. Yarn count test
vi. Fabric tensile strength test
vii. Shrinkage test
viii. Stiffness test
ix. Fabric GSM test
 Packing department
i. Stamping
ii. Inspection
iii. Plaiting
iv. Manual inspection after plaiting
v. Barcode
vi. Sticker attachment and labeling
vii. Polyethene packing
viii. Cartoon packing
ix. Dispatch
 ETP
 Conclusion
 Reference
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Objective of Internship
The objective of this internship is to understand the concept of spun yarn production, woven grey
fabric production, dyeing and finishing of fabric, textile testing and quality control procedure, and
the final folding, packing and dispatch techniques of the textile industry.
Introduction
As a part of our 5th semester curriculum we have conducted a summer internship of a duration of
12 days from 24th May 2016 to 4th June 2016 including Saturday and Sunday as working days.
We completed our internship at Ruby Mills, Khopoli. This is a composite textile mill, with two
separate plants located within 2km of each other on the Mumbai-Pune highway, in the Khalapur
district.
The two units are:
Dhamni Unit – Spinning and Weaving. (Weekly off on Tuesday)
Kharsundi Unit – Finishing and packing (Weekly off on Sunday)
Both the units work in 8hr shifts. There are three shifts per day. Hence the factory is operating
24x7, 6 days a week.
We reported at the factory at 8:30am in the morning and completed our work by 12:30pm in the
afternoon with a break of 15mins in between. We resided at Chembur in Mumbai and our travel
time was approximately 90mins.
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Company profile
The ruby mills ltd. the Flagship Company was established in 1917 as a composite textile mills.
The company has been under the dynamic leadership of Chairman Shri.Manharial C.Shah since
1953.with his rich experience of over 59 years, he has been held in high esteem in the Indian
textile industry. He has been the chairmen of Bombay mills owners association and the chairman
of Bombay textile research association and the chairman of confederation of India textile industry.
The company is a highly modernized Composite Textile Mill in Bombay. The plant is involved in
spinning, weaving, processing of textile fabrics. The company’s installed capacity comprises of
21,024 spindles, 65,000 Mts. of woven fabrics. The processing capacity is on an average 1.25
lakh meters.
The plant is manufacturing yarns and fabrics of Cotton / Polyester / Rayon & Blends. The plant
has latest generation of machines comprising of Super High Production Cards, Auto Leveler,
Draw Frames, Auto Coro Open End Spinning Machines, Auto Coner Winding Machine, and Wide
Width Picanol Air Jet & Rapier Weaving Machines. The plant has its own Process House, which
is capable of Bleaching, Dyeing & Finishing complete production.
The factories are located 70kms. South East of Bombay has advantages in terms of easy
accessibility, availability of transportation of raw materials and finished goods, well established
communication facilities and availability of adequate semi-skilled labor force. The plant at Dhamni
is a modernized composite unit with 21024 spindle, 744 rotor spindle, 96 air jet Picanol looms
and 32 rapier looms. The complete production of fabric is processed at Kharsundi unit.
The group manufacturers and markets following products
 Cotton Yarn 100 %

 cotton carded yarn- 16s to 40s count,
 100% combed yarn up to 100s count.
 100% Cotton Fabrics and poplin
 100% Cotton Sheeting
 100% Cotton Dobby
 100% Cotton Basic Fabric
 100% Cotton Micro Dot coated ( HDPE/LDPE ) Interlining.
The company has been exporting small portion of fabric production to UAE and its product are
well accepted in export markets. The company has been conferred following awards as
recognition to producing international quality.
 Gold star (Spain) 1990.

 Euro Market Award (Brussels) 1992& 1993.
 International Europe award for Quality -1993.
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The company was ranked amongst “India’s most valuable companies” by Business Today.
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Organizational Flow Chart of Company
Company Name: - The Ruby mill ltd.
Product: - 100 % cotton, Polyester blend woven fabric.
Located at – Dhamni Tal: Khalapur. Dist.: -Raigad
Managing Director
(Production & Technical)
Vice- President Vice- President Vice- President Vice President

(Marketing) (Finance) (Production & Technical) (H.R.D)
G.M. Technical & Production
Head Officer
Preparatory Weaving Maintenance & Q.C

Spinning
Process Manager Engineering Manager
Manager
Manager
Assistant
Manager Supervisor Supervisor
Supervisor Operator Operator
Operator
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Located at – Kharsundi Tal: Khalapur. Dist.: -Raigad
Managing Director
(Production & Technical)
Vice- President Vice- President Vice- President Vice President

(Marketing) (Finance) (Production & Technical) (H.R.D)
G.M. Technical & Production
Head Officer
Preparatory Dyeing Finishing Maintenance & S.Q.C

Bleaching
Processes Manager Manager Engineering
Manager
Manager
Assistant
Manager
Supervisor
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Operator
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Spinning
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PROCESS
Raw Material
(Cotton and synthetic fiber in bales)
Mixing
(Bale opening)
Blow room
(Opening and cleaning)
Carding
(Parallelization of fibers)
Ribbon lap
Comber
Draw frame
(Lap)
Roving
(Speed frame)
Ring frame
(Yarn)
Auto Coner
(Cone yarn)
Warping
(Warp beam)
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RAW MATERIAL
Variety of bale import in mills
Bale Bale Station/company Type/quality

weight(kg)
Botad S/6
PCK Pvt Ltd -
Pulgaon MECH-1
Cotton 160- 170 Chopda MECH-1
Kalmeshwar (Nagpur) MECH-1
Georai (Madhav cot.Pvt Ltd.) DCH-32
Adilabad(om Shakti Pvt Ltd.) MCU-5 ( B )
Mantha H-4
Bailhongal DCH-32
Reliance industry Ltd.(surat) 1.0 x40 mm

Polyester 250-260
Micro x 40 mm
Viscose 400-410 Birla cellulose (Gujarat ) 1.2 x38 mm
Raw Material Inspection
On the arrival of raw materials, no. of bales, weight of the bale, quality of the fiber, etc. are
inspected by the supervisor.
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Variety of bale import in mill
Station Type Party lot no. Mill lot no.
Botad S/6 43 13
Pulgaon MECH-1 167 19
Chopda MECH-1 228 12
Kalmeshwar ( MECH-1 536 17

Nagpur )
Georai ( Madhav DCH-32 88 24

cot.private Ltd. )
Mantha H-4 97 55
Bailhongal DCH-32 30 51
Adilabad ( om shakti MCU-5(B) 159 8

private Ltd.)
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BLOW ROOM
Objectives: 1. to open the baled fibers into small tufts which will allow foreign matter to separate
from fibers and prepare the material for easy carding.
2. To mix different component fibers thoroughly for homogenous blending.
3. To feed the material to a chute feed system
Basic parameter to be consider in blow room process:
1. No of opening machines
2. Type of beater
3. Type of beating
4. Beater speed
5. Setting between feed roller and beater
6. Production rate of the entire line
7. Production rate of individual machine
8. Density of the feed web
9. Fiber in the feed
10. Type of clothing of the beater
11. Point density of clothing
12. Type of guide and guide setting
13. Air flow through the mc in the sequence
14. Amount of trash in the material
15. Type of trash in the in the material
16. Temperature and relative humidity in the blow room department
1) Opening: - Volume of flock is increased while the number of fiber remains constant that is
specific density of material is reduced.
2) Cleaning: - To remove trash particles from the fibers. Trash includes leaf, stones, seed
particles, grass, sand, dust.
3) Mixing: - Mixing is in an operation where different cotton of certain known physical properties
that is staple length & grade are combined together to achieved a mix with average
characteristics.
4) Even feed to card: - Clean the fibers by removing trash particles from the cotton & prepare
the material for easy carding through the chute feed system for easy carding.
Chemical used in mixing

• LV-40 :-0.04/1000kg
• Shaftcose :- 0.01 %
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• Water: - 1. 5 ltr/1000kg
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Blend percentage
S.NO MIX COLOUR FIBER NAME LENGTH(in DENIER(in BLEND

mm) mm) PERCENTAGE
1 PV MIX PINK Polyester 1.0 40 48%
Viscose 1.2 38 52%
2 TV MIX GREEN Polyester 1.0 40 65%
Viscose 1.2 38 35%
3 18 TV MIX BLUE Polyester 1.4 38 65%
Viscose 1.5 38 35%
4 TC ORANGE Polyester 1.0 40 65%
Cotton 40cb fleece 35%
5 MTC Polyester 0.8 40 60%
Cotton 60cb fleese 35%
6 20TC KD Polyester 1.0 40 65%
7 20TC Polyester 1.4 38 65%
COMB
FLOW CHART OF BLOW ROOM
COTTON LINE SYNTHETIC LINE
MBO MBO
UNIMIX CARDING
CVT
SP-FPU
DUST TAGE
CARDING
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Machine Bale Opener (M.B.O)
To open the tuft size of cotton in open form by help of disc type beater & also remove heavy trash
particular.
Machine specification:-›
Brand. = Trutzschler
Make = India
Year. = 2001
Beater speed: - 550 - 850 rpm
Beating point: - 1.
Cleaner roller motor speed: - 900 -1300 rpm.
Machine bale opener

Unimix
 Make. = Lakshmi
 Model =T. B 7/3
 Year. =1992
 Storage capacity: - 300 -500 kg.
 Beater speed: - 550 - 850 rpm.
 St riper roller speed :- 720 rpm
 Take up roller speed :- 710 rpm
 Chamber: - 6.
The machine is made up of three part.

1) Storage section
2) An intermediate chamber
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3) Delivery section.
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Flocks are feed pneumatically & simultaneously into six chambers arranged, one behind a
storage section. A conveyer belt at bottom of the all chamber lead the stock through intermediate
chamber to the takeoff unit. Material is extracted from the intermediate chamber & subjected to
further opening step between an included spiked lattice & evener roller.after the spike lattice
there is either a simple pneumatic section feed to next machine.
CVT 3
Brand. = Trumac
Make = India
Year. = 2004
Machine parameter
1st cylinder speed :- 800-1056 rpm Ratio :- + - 100 rpm
2nd cylinder speed :- 1600 - 1864 rpm Ratio :- + - 100 rpm
3rd cylinder speed :- 2000 - 2480 rpm Ratio :- + - 100 - 150 rpm
Pressure :- 450 pascal. 18
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CVT 3 Machine
Shikura
 Machine specification:-›
 Make. = Trutzschler
 Made in India
 Year. =2010
The shikura is color contamination cleaning machine. analyzes the cotton moving in the
illuminated zone by the ejected out by the nozzle driven by the electro valve using the
compressed air , the continuous running contamination collection fan sucks the ejected material
and thrown into the collection bag
Beating point
The objective of beating is to open the material such that there should not be any fibers
rupture. In beating operation of block are subjected to sudden strong blow. There is point to
point action strong blow is known as beating.
1) M.B.O. :- Disc beater

2) Unimix :- Striper roller
3) CVT 3 :- 3 Cylinder
Types of Beater
1) R.K.beater.
2) Saw tooth type beater.
3) Pin type beater.
4) Spikes type beater.
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CARDING
Objectives
1) To eliminate the foreign particle, seed coat, heavy leafy particle.
2) Fiber to fiber state separation.
3) Continuation of cleaning process
4) Removal of short fiber & neps
5) Conversion of lap into sliver.
Total no. of machines = 20

 Machines for cotton line = 12
Operators for 1 machine in cotton line = 1
 Machines for synthetic line = 8
One operator for 8 machines in synthetic line
The passage of material is divided into 3 parts

1) Back zone
2) Carding zone
3) Front zone
Back zone
This zone consist of feed roller, feed plate, licker-in, mote knife, combing segment & autolevellar.
The feed roller having the diameter of 80 mm is placed above the feed plate. Material is passing
through this & feeding to licker-in.
The feed plate is of two types long nose & short nose .The licker-in is having the diameter of 9’’ is
covered with the metallic wire. The wire to be used in the licker-in will be depend upon the kind of
the material to be process. Generally the surface speed ratio of 1:2 or 1:2.2 is kept between the
cylinder & licker-in for better carding action.
Carding zone
This zone is consisting of cylinder, flats, stationary flat, back plate, front plate, under casing. The
surface of the back plate should be smooth. The stationary flats are divided in two front & back
stationary flats. These flats are not revolving, these flats are giving pre combing to the fiber &
helps to improve the carding action. The cylinder having of 50’’ diameter & is covered with
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metallic wire. The no. of wire points & the no. of angle of wire & the height of the wire to be used
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depends on the material to be process.

The cylinder and flats are revolving in the same direction but the cylinder wire points apposite to
the flats wire points. In this stage carding action take place for individualization take place.
The air current produced due to revolving cylinder helps to transfer the fiber from the cylinder to
doffer, only 27 to 30 % fiber from the surface of the cylinder gets transfer to doffer at every
revolution.
Carding Action
Front zone
Front zone consist of doffer, redirecting roller, crush roller, brush roller, calendar roller, coiler,
condenser. The doffer is having the diameter of 27’’ is covered with metallic wire. The fiber
transfer from the cylinder is take up by the doffer & transfer to crush roller with the help of
redirecting roller. The material comes out in a sheet form called as web. This web is then
condensed with the help of condenser. The size of the condenser will depend upon the wrapping
hank. The condensed web is called as sliver then transferred to the can with the help of coiler.
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Main motor speed 1410rpm 1455rpm 1430rpm
Licker in 884-1144rpm 884-1144rpm 880rpm
Cylinder 449-549rpm 449-549rpm 350rpm
Doffer 100-130mpm 100-130mpm 30-40mpm
Flat 80-320mm/min 80-320mm/min 150-180mm/min
Delivery speed 100-130mpm 100-130mpm 40-60mpm
Starting speed 10-30mpm 10-30mpm ---
Slow speed 20-60mpm 20-60mpm ---
High speed 40-330mpm 40-330mpm ---
Liker in, cylinder, & doffer wire mounting

Parts & parameters Licker in Cylinder Doffer
Machine speed 7rpm 8-12rpm 8-12rpm
Pressure 6 kg 1. 5 kg ---
Start tip joint by Welding Feviquick Welding
End tip joint by Bronzotectic powder Welding Welding
Setting & parameters of carding machine
Checkpoint DK-780 DK-800 DK-800

Material Cotton s/6 TCCB PV Mixing
Hank of sliver 16OE 20 TCCB 45 PV
Fineness Ne 0. 110 0. 090 0. 130
Delivery speed 105 mpm 148 mpm 140 mpm

Draft 60 90 90
Prod. Kg /hour 32. 5 kg/hr 55 kg/hr 38. 1 kg/ht
Metal detector to be (Y/N )=Y (Y/N )=Y (Y/N )=Y
switch on
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FBK Pressure pa 275 pa 160 pa 150 pa

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WASTE PERCENTAGE IN BLOW ROOM AND CARDING PROCESS
Blow room Waste (%) 3.0 - 3.25
Card Waste (%) 5.5 - 5.75
Blow room + card Waste (%) 8.5 - 9.0
Atmospheric condition Fire prevention system Metal Detector
Wet bulb :-88' f Fire extinguisher cylinder :- 8 Polyester :- 2

dry bulb :-86' f Water pipe :- 3 Cotton :- 4
Production Calculation
• 20 OE
Prod = Speed x 60 x 8 x efficiency
840 x 2. 204 x delivery hank
=102 x 60 x 8 x 0. 85
840 x 2. 204 x 0. 110
= 130 kgs/shift
 45 PV
Prod = Speed x 60 x 8 x efficiency
840 x 2. 204 x delivery hank
=130 x 60 x 8 x 0. 85
840 x 2. 204 x 0. 120
=163. 3 kgs /shift
Maintenance Schedule
1 Cleaning checking & lubrication 1 months
2 Belt tension and condition checking 1 months
3 Chute feed cleaning and sensor cleaning 1 months
4 Chain cleaning and lubrication 1 months
5 Flat loading and adjusting 1 months
6 Wire cleaning 1 months
7 Coiler unit 1 months
8 Cylinder, doffer, flat grinding 6 months
9 Liker-in wire mounting 1 years
10 Flat tops wire mounting 1 years
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11 Cylinder wire mounting 1 years

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SLIVER LAP
Objectives
1. Uniform thickness of the sliver.
2. Preliminaries of ribbon lap machine.
3. To produce the equal group of sliver.
Passage of material through machine

The sliver lap machine unite to the fed the 13 - 14 sliver are doubling through creel, then sliver are
drafted through 4 over 6 pneumatic drafting system. Finally ribbon wound into a lap. Due to
following reasons machine can be run high speed with minimize maintenance.
Features of the machine

1. Anti-frictional bearing with continuous lubrication have been used wherever possible.
2. Lap weighting is performed by pattern, automatic system.
3. The drafting arrangements are pneumatic weighted.
RIBBON LAP
Objectives
1. To drafted the sliver group into ribbon lap.
2. Equalization of lap.
3. To produce the even width of lap
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Passage of material through the machine

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On the ribbon lap machine is six lap head are drafted & equalize fiber in lap. & drafting arrangement
laid .Exactly one upon the other on deli table & finally wound into a lap on the lapping apparatus.
Many of part of ribbon lap machine same design as that of sliver lap.
Drafting arrangement
Three row of top roller with synthetic covering are loaded over four row of bottom flueted roller.
The Nipping distance are adjustable between 30 × 54 mm in the main zone & between 31 & 35 mm
in break draft zone.
Machine specification
• Make :- Lakshmi Rieter
• Model :- E 4/1 a
• No.of head :- 6
• Deli speed :- 50 - 65 gm/mtr
• Drafting system :- 3 over 4
• Drafting type :- Pneumatic
• Weight of lap feed :- 50 - 75 gm/mtr
• Weight of lap deliver :- 50 - 75 gm/mtr
• Draft :- 5 - 8Max 8Max
• lap dia :- 450 mm
• Lap width :- 300 mm
• Gauge :- 4 - 6
Ribbon
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COMBING
Objectives
1. Elimination of predetermined length of short fibers and impurities.
2. Elimination of naps generation (not all).
3. Improve fiber parallelization & fiber to fiber separation & minimize fiber entanglement &
disorientation.
Combing process upgrade the row material and influences the following yarn quality
1) Yarn evenness
2) Strength
3) Cleanness.
4) Smoothness
5) Visual appearances
Sequence of operation in a comber

1. Lap is fed by roller.
2. Fed lap is gripped by nipper.
3. Gripped lap is combed by circular comb.
4. Detaching roller grips the combed lap and moves forward.
5. While the detaching roller delivers the material, the top comb comes in to action further clean
the lap.
6. While going back, nipper opens and receives a new bit of lap.
Backward feed
As already stated, the lap is fed whilst the nipper is rocking backwards, i.e., after detaching, but
before the circular comb combs the fringe of fibers.
Immediately after detaching, the length of the fiber fringe protruding from the nipper amounts to L
mm. The length of the fringe is increased further by the amount a fed before the action of the
circular comb. Thus a fringe measuring L+A in length is presented to the circular comb
Forward feed
In contrast to feeding during the backward stroke, the material is fed during the forward motion of
the nipper, i. e., during detaching. The fringe of fibers protruding from the nipper has a length L
when the nipper moves backwards. Therefore all fibers shorter than L are extracted by the
circular comb and subsequently passed into the waste. The material is fed as the nipper swings
forwards again and during detaching. All fibers longer than L-A is seized by the detaching rollers
and passes into the sliver.
Factors influencing the Combing efficiency

1. Fiber length distribution in staple diagram.
2. Amount of waste extracted.
3. Comber lap preparation.
Production calculation
= Nip/min × feed/nip × feed gm/mtr × 60 × 8 × effi × no.of head × noil %
1000 × 1000 × tension draft
= 190 × 4.5 × 50 × 60 × 8 × 8 × 0.85 × 0.83

1000 × 1000 × 1.1
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= 105.28 kg/shift
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Machine Specification
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DRAWFRAME
Objectives
1. Parallelization of the fiber.
2. Equalization of the sliver.
3. Removal of the dust and short fibers.
4. Mix the different types of fibers so as to give a homogeneous blending.

Six to eight card cans are fed to the drafting arrangement with the help of creel. A feed roller pair
is located above each can to enable the feed step to be performed in a controlled manner without
false drafts. The feed roller pairs are carried in creel which is positively driven the sliver running
into the drafting arrangement leave. In avoid to disintegration of the web, which would otherwise
be unavoidable at the high operating speeds. Currently in use it is condensed into a sliver
immediately after the drafting arrangement. Then sliver is guided through a tube via passage of
the tube gear into a can which is it must be laid in clean coils with optimal utilization of the space
in the can.
Fig. Passage of material through draw frame

Auto leveling in draw frame
Auto-leveling is an additional device which is correcting the linear density variation in the
delivered sliver by changing either the main draft or break draft of the drafting system according
to the feed variation.
This system is electronic leveling system. The major components in this system are
1. Scanning roller
2. Signal converter
3. Leveling CPU
4. Servo motor
5. Differential gear box
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\
Fig. Auto leveling System

There are two types of auto leveling
1. Open loop system
2. Closed loop system
Open loop system
In open loop autoleveller, sensing is done at the feeding end and the correction is done by
changing either a break draft or main draft of the drafting system.
Closed loop system
In closed loop system, sensing is at the delivery side and correction is done by changing either
a break draft or main draft of the drafting system. Most of the draw frame auto-leveler is open
loop auto-leveler. Open loop system is very effective, because the correction length in open loop
system is many folds lower than closed loop system. But in case of closed loop system, it is
confirmed that the delivered sliver is of required linear density.
No.of m/c, make, model & specification

1. Drawframe breaker :-
1. Make: - Rieter
Model: - RSB - 1
No.of m/c: - 2
2. Make :- Lakshmi rieter
Model :- RSB - 851
No.of m/c :- 3
Deli speed :- 400 - 500 mtr/min
Drafting system :- 3 over 3
Drafting type :- Spring loaded
Bottom roller :- Axial flueted
Top roller :- Synthetic rubber coated
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Top roller dia :- 38 mm

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Bottom roller dia :-

1st & middle :- 30 mm
Deli roller :- 40 mm
2. Drawframe finisher:-
1. Make: - Rieter
Model: - RSB D - 40
No.of m/c:- 2
2. Make: - Rieter
Model: - RSB D - 45
No.of m/c :- 2
Deli speed: - 400 - 500 mtr/min
Drafting system: - 3 over 4
Drafting type: - Pneumatic loading
Bottom roller: - flueted
Top roller: - Synthetic rubber coated
Drawing
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ROVING (SPEEDFRAME)
Objective: 1. To draft the sliver into roving with required hank with the help of effective drafting
system.
2. Twist the drafted strand using flyer.
3. Finally wind the twisted roving on a bobbin for easy handling of material.
Passage of Material through Machine
The 120 cans of creel are feed to the machine and the sliver are provided to the drafting system
with the help of positive driven roller of creel zone.
In drafting zone draft the material with draft between 5-15 with required hank are drafted and the
material is passed through inlet condenser. In the drafting arrangement in drafting system double
apron is use.
Then drafted strand is passed through false twister in the flyer. False twister is top on the flyer to
add the false twist in roving.
Flyer inserts the twist in the roving. Flyer reduced the roving length flyer and spindle is help to
winding of roving on to bobbin peripheral speed difference between flyer and spindle is help to
winding.
Machine Specification
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RING FRAME
Objective
 Drafting: - To draft the material until the required fineness achieved.

 Twisting: - To impart the strength to the yarn by inserting twist.
 Winding: - To wind the twisted strand in a form suitable for easy transportation.
Roving bobbin are feed in the creel in bobbin holder then roving stand are passed through 3 over
3 drafting system. Roving strand are drafted until the required fineness are achieved then it
passed through lappet, traveller & wound on cops. Twist are inserted by help of differential speed
of traveller & spindle.
No.of m/c, make, model & specification
Model: - RXI 240
No.of m/c: - 20 + 2
No.of spindle: - 20160 + 864
Total spindle: - 21024
Spindle speed: - Maximum 23500 rpm
Lift: - 185 mm
T.P.I:- 8.1 - 50.9
Ring diameter: - 36 mm
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WINDING
Objectives: - 1. To convert smaller cops of yarn into larger package.
2. To remove objectionable yarn faults.
3. To form continuous length of yarn package.
4. To form a cone packages of suitable dimension of specific use.
Parts of the machine
Package cradle
The package cradle is holds the delivery package. The package is chucked between the two
adaptors. The cradle is used to move the RH adaptor laterally. The package cradle is mounted on
cradle carrier which seated cradle shaft.
Balloon control
Its function is to control the balloon formation during unwinding of the yarn from bobbin by
dividing it into two nodes ultimately it reduces the excessive tension.
Yarn tensioner
The function tensioner is to maintain the package density by providing the tension on the yarn. In
auto Coner 338 type the tensioner is working on magnetic principle as shown in figure.
Splicer
The function of splicer is to form the knotless joint in the yarn. The splicer is worked with the
compressed air. Injection splicer and thermo splicer are the two types of splicer. The compressed
air flows in the prism of the splicer and open the twist in the both ends of the yarn and whirls the
fibers. The open fibers are again twisted by air and forms knotless joint.
Electronic yarn clearer
The function of EYC is to remove the objectionable yarn faults as per the setting and it monitors
the running yarn for evenness. Thick and thin places as well as double ends are cut out. There
are two types of EYC Principle.
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1. Photoelectric principle
2. Capacitance principle: - Autoconer 338 types.
Capacitance principle
It monitors the diameter of the running yarn and if any variation in the yarn dia, it changes the
capacity and transfer the signal to microprocessor. It takes action as per the setting.
Magazine
During the trap doors, closing motion the magazine cylinder rotates for transfer of the neat bobbin
to the bobbin peg. The magazine cylinder rotated at 60 degree.
Auto Coner 338 type 6 bobbins per magazine.
Auto Coner AC 5 type 9 bobbins per magazine.
Auto tense
The yarn tension sensor auto tense permits constant yarn tension progression throughout the
complete unwinds process of bobbin. After each yarn break a new zero tuning performed
automatically in order to prevent unreliable measurements.
Advantages of auto tense
 In many application production increase due to higher average winding speed.

 Quality improvement of yarn e.g. better evenness of waxing and less variations in density of
package.
 Reduction of yarn breaks when unwinding from bottom portion to the bobbins.
Waxing device
The waxing device applies minute wax particles on the running yarn. Wax rolls seated on the
square shaft and runs continuously against the direction of the running yarn wax % up to 0.2 -0.6
%
No.of machine, make, model & specification
Brand: - Saurer
Model: - Schalafhorst 338
No.of m/c: - 8
No.of drum per m/c: - 60
Count capacity per m/c: - 6
Yarn clearing system: - Loephee
Winding speed: - 800 - 1600 mpm
Package diameter: - 40 - 326 - 180 mm
Package length: - 5000 - 650000 mtr
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C o u n t Lot number S p e e d L e n g t h m/c number
20 TCKD 3 8 3 1200 mtr/min 103000 mtr 8
20 TCCB 3 8 2 1200 mtr/min 103000 mtr 5
3 0 C B 2 0 1 1200 mtr/min 103000 mtr 1
4 0 C B 2 2 1 1000 mtr/min 206000 mtr 1
4 0 C L C 9 1 7 1200 mtr/min 141000 mtr 8
4 0 T C 4 0 3 1200 mtr/min 170000 mtr 2
4 5 P V 8 6 1 1200 mtr/min 247000 mtr 6
4 5 T V 5 2 1 1100 mtr/min 230000 mtr 7
55 TCHT 4 8 3 900 mtr/min 188000 mtr 1
8 0 M T C 7 4 4 900 mtr/min 272000 mtr 5
Production calculation
Formula = Winding speed in mtr/min × 60 × 8 × effi × No.of drums
840 × 2.204 × Count
Eg.
45 PV = 1200 × 60 × 8 × 0.98 × 60
840 × 2.204 × 40
= 457.35 kg/shift
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CONDITIONING
Objectives
1. To increase the moisture % of the cone/cheese.
2. To increase the weight of the package up to the 2%
3. To improve yarn quality by reducing the hairiness.
Process of yarn conditioning

First U.V lamp checking is done. For the detection of count mixing, contamination, black ring etc.
The conditioning is done in the XORELLA machine made in Switzerland according to requirement
of conditioning. The conditioning is done for increasing the moisture and weight of cone. Near
about 25-30gm weight is increased in conditioning per package. It also increases the tightness of
cone. After that table checking is done. It checks package faults like without tail end, dirty cone,
without sticker, damaged paper cone, cross end, cut end, loose cone.
Staming up to 85' c : - 15 min

Steaming over 85' c: - 15 min
Conditioning up to 55' c: - 15 min
Brand: - SARA ELGI
Model: - Profix
Temperature: - 120' c
Operator: - 1
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WEAVING
DEPEARTMENT
37
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WEAVING PROCESS FLOW CHART
WARPING
(Preparation for sizing)
SIZING
(Beam preparation for weaving)
DRAWING
(Reed preparation)
LOOM
AIRJET LOOM RAPIER

LOOM
FOLDING
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WARPING
Objective: i) convert number of yarns end to required fabric.

ii) Winding specific type of package required by the beam
iii) To prepare the weaver’s beam to be placed and set up on the weaving machine.
In this stage warp beam is prepared according to order received. The desirable length and
number
of warp yarns are arranged in the desired sequence and placed on a beam. There are two types
of
Warping- Direct and sectional warping.
Direct warping (beam warping)
Direct warping also called beam warping / high speed warping. The yarn are being unwound from
packages to a temporarily beams, at a certain length, number and density and is wound parallel
on the warping beam. Then these beams will be assembled in the sizing stage to produce the
weaver’s beam.it is a very high speed process and is used for making fabric of single color.
Flow of work.
Creel
Beam for sizing
Weaver’s beam
Make Benninger
Model Ben-Direct
Max Capacity 832 cons
Min Capacity 570 cons
No. Colum in the creel 52
No of Colum carried the max. 8 cons
Max Speed 1200 mtr/min
Features of direct warping
It is used to make common fabrics in large quantities .It is used to produce weavers beam from
single yarn and the production rate is high.
Sections of direct warping
 Creel (7 creel on 1 stand)


39
Warp break sensor

 Beam
Page
 Monitor (real time feedback)

 Expanding comb
 Pressure roller
 Warping machine speed as per practices:-
COUNT SPEED
20s to40s Ne 950 mpm
20s to30s Ne 900 mpm
40sto 50s Ne 850 mpm
60s Ne 800 mpm
80s Ne 750 mpm
Warping production
= Speed X 60 X 8 X efficiency X creel capacity X 0.9/840 Xcount X 2.204
Actual production – 225000 mtr
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Parameters and real time production diagnostics
Warping room layout

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 Sectional warping
In this warping the yarns of equal length are being unwound from the packages to a conical drum.
Then from the drum it is being transferred to the beam. This is a two stage process and weaver’s
beam is obtained directly. This method is used for making fancy fabric and when sizing of the
warp yarn is not necessary.
Flow of work
Creel
Drum
Weaver’s beam
 Machine specification:-
Make Prashant Gamatex

Model ESP-801
Year 2006
Creel type Mobile type
Stop mechanism Electronic.
Machine speed.,
800 m/min
Number of worker in department:
- Warper 1
- Helper 3
Features of sectional warping
 This is suitable for making checked fabric, striped or other fancy fabric.
 Less number of ends of warp in the sheet.
 The production is less in sectional warping
 Less efficient than direct warping.
 Creel capacity is less
 It is not widely used for production
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SIZING
Objective: To give strength and smoothness to the warp yarns

To endure the tensions on the weaving machine.
To increase yarn elasticity and decrease hairiness
To decrease the generation of static electricity
Sizing is the process of application of size material (gelatinous film forming substance) on the
warp yarns. To bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during
weaving.
Process
The 10 to 12 warp beam are placed on the holder, the warp yarns of all beam are taken together
and is passed through sizing box. The sizing machine in the factory has two sizing box to reduce
the production time. Depending on the size of order the sizing box are used. Mostly the right side
sizing box is being used. The warp yarns are feed to the sizing box which passes through
padding mangle containing sizing solution then to squeezing roller and then to drying section . At
last the warp yarns are wound onto a beam which is known as weaver’s beam. The dwell time of
the sized beam is one day and is kept in the warehouse till then. The time , pressure and heat is
controlled the machine.
Creel zone
Sow box zone
Dying zone
Splitting zone
Winding zone
Passage of sizing machine:
Ingredients of sizing
 Adhesive – chemical starch and p.v.a

 Softners - softelo- y
 Antistatic agent – filawax - ACN
43
 Antistatic agent – filawax - HV

 Wetting agent – novapol – WT
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Size recipe
Count 45 pv 60 cb 16 OE
Anilose 55 kg 65 kg 55 kg
PVA 13 kg 11 kg -
Bill Bind 5 kg 12 kg 13 kg
Nova Pol 60kg 0.750 kg 0.500 kg
Filatex HV 1 kg 0.750 kg 1 kg
Soft Tallow –y .500 kg 3.5 kg 2.500 kg
Water 16.5 “ 17.5” 17 “
Brand Benninger (karl mayer)

Machine name Ben-sizetec
Make Switzerland
Year 2009
Creel capacity 24 beams
Creel breaks hydrolic band break
Machine speed 70 mpm
No. of cylinder 12 (8 negative drive /4 positive drive)
Process parameters in sizing:-
1. Viscosity
2. Temperature
3. Speed
4. Solid content
5. Squeeze rolls pressure
 Sizing Defects:-
1) Soft beam
2) Cut ends in beam
3) Size patch
4) Sizing crystal
5) Crossing ends
6) Sticky ends
Sizing Production;
= m/c speed X 60 X 8 X8 X Effi X 0.9 X no.of ends

840 X warp count X 2.204
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Warp beam in sequence for
weaver’s beam after sizing
2 bowl padding Sizing solution

mangle
45
Sizing bath
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DRAWING IN
Objective: To draw the warp through drop pin, heald and reed as per the draft based on design
on the fabric and preparing frame for weaving
In this process warp yarns are threaded through the drop wires, healds eyes and reed dents.
Depending on the style, the threading sequence will differ. This operation can be carried out
manually or by automatic drawing –in machines. The process start by placing the harness and
the row of healds on the proper anchor of brackets, the program is feeded into computer and the
machine is started .A sort of long needle picks in sequence the threads and inserts them with
only one movement into the drop wires, the healds and the reed dents , which are selected each
time and lined up to that purpose .The compute controls the different functions and supervises
them electronically, ensuring the exact execution of the operation and interrupting it in each case
of defects.
Types of heald wire
1.simplex heald wire

2. duplex heald wire
Types of drop pin
1.open type drop pin

2. close type
Trying in -The machine knot the old yarn s on the weaving machine to the new warp yarns set on
the new weaver’s beam.
46
Drawing-inn room
Page
Thread take
up
Pulley
Sensor
Sensor
Threading blade
Heald
47
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LOOM
There are two types of loom available in the factory – Air jet loom and Rapier loom.
No. of rooms – 3
Room 1
Type of loom - Rapier loom
No. of lines - 8
No. of looms – 46 (line 1 = 4 looms, other lines = 6 looms)
Room 2
Type of loom - Airjet loom
No. of lines - 8
No. of looms – 46 (line 2 = 4 looms, other lines = 6 looms)
Room 3
Type of loom - Rapier loom
No. of lines - 8
No. of looms – 48 ( 6 looms per line)
Mechanisms in weaving
Primary motion
 Shredding
 Pick up
 Beating
Secondary motion
 Let – off
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 Take up
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RAPIER LOOM
Rapier loom is a shuttle less weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of
warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger like carriers called rapiers.
Working principle
As in the projectile loom, a stationary package of yarn is used to supply the weft yarns in the
rapier machine. One end of a rapier, a rod or steel tape, carries the weft yarn. The other end of
the rapier is connected to the control system .The rapier moves across the width of the fabric,
carrying the weft yarn across through the shed to the opposite side. The rapier is then retracted,
leaving the new filling in place. In double rapier machine, two rapiers are used, each half the
width of the fabric in size. One rapier carries the yarn to the center of the shed, where the
opposing rapier picks up the yarn and carries it the remainder of the way across the shed.
The housing for the rapiers must take up as much space as the width of the machine. To
overcome this problem, looms with flexible rapiers have been devised. The flexible rapier can be
coiled as it is withdrawn and will therefore require less space. However, if the rapier is too stiff, it
will not coil; if it is too flexible, it will buckle. The double rapier is used more frequently than the
single rapier.
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Stages in filling
Operator
Take- up
Left-off
selvedge
waste
50
Side-view of rapier loom

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Technical details
Brand- Picanol
Model no. – Grammax
Speed – 600 rpm
Colors- 8
Rapier - 2
Heald frames – 12
Width – 230cm
WIR – 1160 m/ min
Reed width - 190, 220 and 340 cm
Machine drive - Sumo main motor with direct machine drive
Pick stop motion - In case of a broken pick the machine stops and only the harness frames are
brought in motion – automatically – so as to free the broken pick, without the reed touching the
beat-up line.
Safety - Light curtain (depending on country of delivery)
Protection guard over take-up rollers
Selvedge formation - Tucked selvedges, Hot wire cutter
Features
 Guided gripper system

 Free flight system
 8 color insertion
 Double backrest and take –up
 The unique Electronic Selvedge System ,full leno selvedge motions are electrically driven
by individual stepper motors
 Electronic take- up and left- off
 Automatic full pick finding
 Ergonomic machine - Machines are tilted slightly to the front, providing easy access for the
weaver. The push-buttons are within reach at all times.
 Lubrication is by means of a central oil circulation system.
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AIRJET LOOM
A shuttle less loom in which filling yarns are propelled through the shed by jet of air .
Working principle
The measuring disk removes the length of yarn applicable to the dimension of the material being
woven. A clamp holds the yarn in insertion cargo deck, wherever auxiliary air nozzle forms it into
the form of a pin. The clamp opens as the main nozzle processes the air to put yarn in motion by
propulsive force. The yarn is blown into the guiding channel of the reed with shed open. The filing
yarn is carried through the shed by the air currents emitted by rely nozzles on the channel.
Electronically controlled relay nozzles offer extra booster jets to hold the yarn across the shed.
Insertion cycle starts with closing of clamp; filing of yarn in and then the yarn is cut when the shed
closes. Once more some selvedge forming device is needed to supply stability to the sides of the
fabric.
52
Air-jet loom
Page
Technical details
Brand – Picanol
Model - Omniplus Summum
Machine drive - Sumo main motor with direct machine drive
Relay nozzles – 8
Fabric Specifications
Useful widths : 190, 220, 250, 280, 340, 360, 400 cm

Width reduction (Both symmetrical :190 cm: up to 70 cm
and asymmetrical width reduction) 220 and 250 cm: up to 90 cm
280, 340, 360 and 400 cm: up to 96 cm
Filament yarns: 10 denier - 1000 denier
Warp beam
Warp beam diameter: 805, 1000 or 1100 mm Standard

Double warp beam: for reed width 280 cm and more
Warp stop motion: Electrical, toothed electrodes and search handle Standard
Detection per electrode or per zone
Reed motion: Conjugated cams with cam followers Standard
Shedding motion: Positive cams for up to 8 or 10 harness frames Standard
Positive dobby for up to 16 harness frames Standard
Electronic Jacquard Control Standard
Automatic Crossing Moment (ACM)
Features
 Interactive display
 Pressure for main and relay nozzles set from display
 Centralized lubrication
 Weft feeders with mechanical and electronical adjustment of the yarn
 Quick gear beam lock
 Machine speeds can be set and adjusted on the machine display. Changing the speed can
be done in real time using Multispeed or automatically following a preprogrammed speed
pattern.
 In case of a machine stop (filling stop), the new PRA II Plus system automatically removes
the filling from the shed and starts the machine again if conditions allow this.
 Electronic pressure regulators and built in pressure sensor
 Unique relay nozzle design
 Electronic leno system - With individual programming of the weaving pattern. Creating
unlimited possibilities for weaving the fabric selvedge.
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Heald frame
Reed
Blade
Selvedge
cut-off
Loom
Vacuum
cleaning
the floor
54
Loom layout
Page
In weaving end breakages occurs due to
 Soft end/ bad piecing

 Weak place
 Slubs
 Snarls
 Edge cut
 Hand waste
 Sloughing off
 Loose knot
 Entanglement
 Cut ends
 Loose ends
 Foreign matters
 Package damage
 Others
Loom production
Loom speed X 60 X 8 X effi / ppi X 39.37 = mtr/min
1) Loom production in shift- 750X60X8X.84 / 45 X 39.37

= 170 mtr/shift
2) Efficiency = actual ick/calculated pick X 100

Calculated pick = speed X 60 X 8
750 X8 X60
360000 Mtr
Effiiency = 3000848/360000 X 100
= 83.56%
55
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Fabric Inspection
Quality can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw material / fabric which would be
inspected .some faults are generated in fabric due to man, machine, and material to overcome
this fault is numbering but producing of qualitative fabric hence. It should require to know the of
faults and intensity and this is given by point system mostly popular American 4 point grading
system.
Defect size Point

0-3” 1
3”- 6” 2
6”- 9” 3
9”- above 4
EXAMPLES OF DEFECTS FOUND IN GREY GABRIC
Sr.No DEFECTS Sr.no DEFECTS

1 Thick place 14 Size stain
2 Temple crack 15 Mending holes
3 Temple mark 16 Fluff mark
4 Snarls 17 Weft loops
5 Smash 18 Double end
6 Rubbing mark 19 Single end
7 Holes 20 Neps
8 Gout 21 Splice
9 Yarn defects 22 Warp knot
10 Reedline 23 Weft knot
11 Selvedge burst 24 Slub
12 Wrong drawing 25 Rust stain
13 Hitch Back 26 Oil gout
27 Oil stain
The production of the day before is inspected on the present day and close to 50,000meters of
fabric is passed per day.
56
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Inspection Machine Inspection sheet

Grey fabric
Singeing + Desizing
T/L Scouring CBR Mercerize
Drying
BPHS CBR II Finishing
Finishing for Heat Set
Calender Shearing Sanforize Raising Polymerize(I/L)
Sanforize Sanforize
Sanforize Shearing
Dyeing
Dot Coating Sanforize
Folding
Jet dyeing CBP dyeing Jigger dyeing Thermosol dyeing
Mapping
Dry singeing Finishing
Calender Shearing Sanforize
Folding
Slitter + Stampping
Inspection
Mapping
Plaitting Cutting Dispatch

57
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PREPARATORY PROCESS
58
Page
General sequence of flow chart -
Grey fabric
Singeing + Desizing
Mercerizing
Bleaching (CBR)
Finishing Dyeing
Folding
Inspection
Mapping
Platting & Cutting
Packing
Dispatch
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GREY DEPARTMENT
Objective - Small rolls of fabric is converted to the big rolls (Batcher)

No. of machines in grey department - 2
M/C No. 1 - (Batcher m/c)
Company name – Bianco & Machine carusr (Brusher)
Made in Italy
Year of construction – 2009
Model - SP-S4
M/C No. 1I - (Batcher m/c)
Company name – Bianco & Novatech (Brusher)
Fabric qualities in grey department -

a) Cotton (100%)
Sort Construction GLM Warp Weft Grey width

No. (cm)
5116 16 OE x 16 OE 375 56 54 194
5117 20 COE x 16 COE 375 56 46 194
4676 20 OE x 20 OE 180 52 44 125
4442 39SCB x 24 KD 260 72 56 194
4777 100 CB x 100 CB 100 120 104 110
1709 40 CB x 20 CB Slub 260 80 52 100
Dobby
4363 39 SCB x 40 CB 170 52 50 125
4811 24 OE x 24 OE 160/17 56 54 121
0
4513 40 CB x 39 SCB 160 88 84 121
4830 100 CB x 100 CB 100 120 104 132
4563 40 CB x 30 CB 150 88 64 123
4639 40 CB x 40 CB 150 120 72 98
4839 40CBx40CB 200 80 72 170
+20CBDobby
4826 40 CB x 40 CB 210 120 72 160
4519 60 CB x 60 CB 180 120 94 170
4554 40CBx40CB +20CB 150 72 68 100
4790 80 CB x 80 CB 180 88 80 171
4576 60 CB x 100 CB 180 120 102 171
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c) Polyester Viscose blends
Sort Construction GLM Blend Warp Weft Grey

No. % width cm
5006 45PV x 45 PV 220 48P+52V 84 80 100
5001 45TV x 30TV 150 48P+52V 80 82 124
5100 45TV x 30TV 150 67P+33V 84 68 100
4707 18TV x 18TV 220 67P+33V 52 50 124
5102 45PVx2/45PV+135 220 38P+41V+2 80 60 102
D 1F
5062 45PV x 45 PV 220 48P+52V 80 76 100
4748 45TVx45TV Satin 220 65P+35V 5/56 74 125
4751 45PV x 45 PV 220 48P+52V 88 80 158
4744 30TV x 30TV Twill 220 65P+35V 3/72 64 103
5096 30TV x 30TV 160 67P+33V 80 72 100
d) Other blends%
Sort Construction GLM Blend Warp Weft Grey

No. % width cm
1582 40M+20+20x40M+20+2 200 30P+70 64 64 170
0 M
4849 40CB+30 Rimp+20 BTR 200 29P+36C 64 64 160
+35V
4861 60CB x 70Linen 200 48C+52L 84 60 168
1796 60 CB x 60 Linen 200 48C+52L --- --- 159
1657 50 Linen x 50 Linen 230 100 % L 48 48 160
1715 70 Linen x 70 Linen ----- 100 % L 56 56 173
1737 40 CB x 36 NM Remie 160 42C+58 72 52 130
R
1797 60 CB x 48 NM Remie 190 50C+50 128 644 158
R
4865 33 Linen x 33 Linen 360 100 %L 96 44 170
1772 42 Remie x 42 Remie 150 100 % R 72 64 151
1767 60 Modal x 60 Modal --- 100 % M 64 84 160
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Left- off roller Dust removal and
accumulation of fabric
Vacuum and converting

small roller into big
62
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SINGEING + DESIZING MACHINE
Objective of Singeing -
 To remove the protruding or small fibers or hairy fibers from the surface of the fabric
 To make the fabric smoother.
Specification of m/c -
No. of machines – 1
Name of m/c Singeing + Desizing m/c

Company name Osthoff Senge
Made in Germany
Model VP99-H/FO-02/2
Year of construction 2008
Type of singeing Gas singeing
No. of burners 2
Ratio of singeing 1 : 3 (1 gas + 3 air)
Source of flame L.P.G
Pressure of L.P.G. 1.5 bar
Color of flame Blue
Flame Intensity Depend upon fabric GLM
Interlining 100% PC/TC PV White PV Dyed 100%

SINGEING fabric Cotton Polyester
White
m/c speed 100mt/min 120mt/min 120mt/min 120mt/min 120mt/min 120mt/min
Entry cloth 1 Bar 1 Bar 1 Bar 1 Bar 1 Bar 1 Bar

guider
pressure
Pre brushing Manual acc to fabric quality (-3 to +3)
Flame width 100 cm to 210 cm (as per quality)

setting
Cooling
water 4-6bar 4-6bar 4-6bar 4-6bar 4-6bar 4-6bar
pressure
FLAME
SETTING
Position 2 2 2 2 No 2
Intensity 12 10 10 10 No 10
Distance 12 15 15 10 No 10
63
Hairiness 180 180 180 Manual Manual 180

measurement
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DESIZING -
Objective of desizing – to remove size from the grey fabric
.
Machine specifications –
Type of desizing Enzyme desizing

Type of Enzyme Bacterial enzyme
Desizing method Hydrolytic method
Temp. Of desizing bath 70 degree C
Speed of m/c 100 to 120 m/min
PH of desize bath 6–7
Batch rotation time 8 hrs.
No. of stock tank 2
Capacity of stock tank 2000 ltrs
Capacity of Desizing bath 800 ltrs
Dwell time of each desize bath 20 sec
Nip pressure of I chamber 2 kg/cm2
Nip pressure of II chamber 0.5 - 1.5 kg/cm2
Dancer roll pressure 3.5 – 4 kg/cm2
Batching pressure 1.5 to2 bar
Chemicals used in desizing process -
Chemical Name Agent Color of chemical PH (1%)

Bioamylase L4T Desizing agent Light brown liquid 6
Kieralon Wash F-ALB Wetting agent Colorless turbid liquid 5.5
Lufibrol Extract MSD Sequestering agent Brownish liquid 7
Cellusoft CR Biopolishing agent Colorless liquid 6
Neutracid Neutralizin agent Colorless liquid 5
1) Bio amylase L4T -It is desizing agent. Multi component alpha amylase having flexible
temperature and PH profile.
2) Kieralon Wash F-ALB -Multifunctional, low foaming wetting agent. It is co-stabilizer in
peroxide bleaching.
4) Lufibrol Extract MSD -Extraction agent and dispersant with stabilizing agent and anticatalytic
effect in the alkaline peroxide bleach, used to improve the degree of whiteness and absorbency.
5) Cellusoft CR -It is a bio-polishing agent, to make smooth surface of the fabric. It is used
64
specially for P/V goods. But it is sensitive to high temperature, hence it works at temperature
Page
about 50 degree C.
DESIZING Interlining 100% PC/TC PV White PV Dyed 100%
fabric Cotton Polyester
White
Bioamylase
L4T 6 GPL 2.5GPL 2.5GPL 2.5GPL 2.5GPL 2.5GPL
Wetting
agent 6GPL 3GPL 3GPL 3GPL 3GPL 3GPL
Chelating
agent 1GPL 1GPL 1GPL 1GPL 1GPL 1GPL
Cellusoft CR - - 5GPL 5GPL 5GPL

Chemical
bath temp. 60°C 60°C 60°C 50°C 50°C 50°C
pH 6.5TO 7 6.5TO 7 6.5TO 7 6.5TO 7 6.5TO 7 6.5TO 7
Size content on grey fabric -
Sized fabric – Desized fabric

= ----------------------------------- x 100
Sized fabric
= --------------------- % size content of fabric.
Wet Pick up %
Wet fabric – Dry fabric

= ---------------------------- x 100
Wet fabric
0.399-0.014
= ----------------- % pick up.
0.399
= 96.49
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Singeing
Desizing unit
Singeing and desizing machine layout
66
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Operation checklist
SCOURING
Objective –
 To remove natural as well as added impurities
 To increase absorption of fabric
 To make suitable for removing the natural coloring matter of the cotton during the
subsequent bleaching process.
Process in scouring –
1) Saponifiable oils are converted into soaps

2) Proteins are hydrolysed into soluble degradation products
3) Simpler amino compounds are dissolved or hydrolysed to ammonia
4) Pectose and pectin are changed into soluble salts of pectic or metapectic acid
5) Mineral matter is dissolved
6) Unsaponifiable oils and waxes are emulsified by the soluble soaps formed from the
Machine Sepcification –
No. of machine – 1
Machine Name TL Scouring

Company Name Harish
Made in India
No. of chambers 5
Pre – chambers 2
Post – chambers 3
Volume of chambers 1200 Ltr
Volume of Steamer 3000 Ltr
No. of Squeezers 6
Volume of Stock tank 450 Ltr
Volume of Addition tank 60 Ltr
Volume of chemical bath 400 Ltr
Process parameters -
Speed of machine 45 to 50 mpm

Temp. Of chambers 90 degree C
Steamer temp. (Relax zone) 100 degree C
Steamer bath temp. 100 degree C
67
Squeezer pressure 2 to 3 kg/cm2

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Layout of scouring machine
68
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CONTINUOUS BLEACHING RANGE (C.B.R.)
Objective –
 The destruction of natural coloring matter from the textile materials in order to achieve a
clean white end product.
 To get sufficient high and uniform degree of whiteness in the textile materials.
Specification of m/c -
Machine name CBR m/c
Company Name Menzel
Made In Germany
PH of bleaching bath 10 - 12
Temp. Of bleaching solution 30 – 32 DC
No. of stock tank 5
Volume of peroxide & caustic tank 1500 Ltr
Volume of stb / wet. agent /seq. agent tank 200 Ltr
Volume of addition tank 50 Ltr
No. of washers 7
Pre -washers 3
Post- washers 4
Water flow in washer 4 to 5 Ltr/KG
Fabric in washer 24 mtr
Volume of washer tank 1400 Ltr
Temp. Of washer no. 1 to 6 95 DC
Temp. Of washer no. 7 RT (Neutralizer)
Steamer Temperature 100 DC
Volume in steamer 3200 Ltr
Capacity of fabric load in steamer 400 kg
Steam pressure of Steamer 3.5 – 4 kg/cm2
No. of dryer range 2
No. of dry cans 24
Temp. Of dryers 120 – 150 DC
Steam pressure of dryers 3 kg/cm2
M/C speed (m/min) 60 for dyed & 70 – 80 for white
Dancer pressure 3 - 4 kg/cm2
Guider pressure 0.5 - 1 kg/cm2
Nip pressure 1 & 2 washers 2 – 3 kg/cm2
Nip pressure of Optimax (Applicator) 3 (upper) & 4 (lower mangle) kg/cm2
69
Length of Applicator squeezer I(Lower) 220 cm

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Diameter of squeezer I (Lower) 34 cm

Circumference of squeezer I (Lower) 112 cm
Thickness of applicator squeezer I (Lower) 1 cm
Diameter of squeezer II (Toper) 25 cm
Length of Applicator squeezer II(Toper) 220 cm
Circumference of squeezer II (Toper) 75 cm
Batching pressure 1 – 2 kg/cm2
No. of motors in m/c 95
Chemicals used in bleaching process -
Chemicals Agent Company

Hydrogen peroxide Bleaching agent --------
Prostogen stabilizer D Stabilizer BASF
Kieralon Wash F-ALB Wetting agent BASF
Lufibrol Extract MSD Sequestering agent BASF
Caustic soda Scouring agent --------
Specific gravity / Density (gm/cc) Chemicals

1.195 Hydrogen peroxide (50%)
1.133 Prostogen stabilizer D
0.981 Kieralon Wash F-ALB
1.170 Lufibrol Extract MSD
1.50 Caustic soda (50%)
Layout of CBR and Mercerizing machine

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BLEACHING UNIT
71
FABRIC END STITCHING SEWING MACHINE

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MERCERIZER MACHINE
Objective -
 Mercerizing is the treatment on cotton fabric with a strong caustic alkaline solution under
fabric tension.
 To make fabric surface smooth.
The effect of mercerization –
1) Improved luster
2) Increased ability to absorb dye
3) Improved reactions with a variety of chemicals
4) Improved the dimensional stability, strength / elongation.
5) Improved smoothness.
If the cotton hair is dipped in different alkaline solutions, no change in appearance will be visible
up to 10 Be, but above 11 Be, the hair slowly loses its natural twist. Above 13 Be, untwisting and
shrinkage in the longitudinal direction gradually starts to increase and as the concentration nears
16 Be untwisting and shrinkage advance rapidly. Between 18 to 22 Be shrinkage of the length
reaches at minimum time. The mercerizing cotton is that in the swelling of cellulose fibers due to
exposure to alkalis, the natural crystalline structure of the cellulose relaxes and under appropriate
tension, the dimensions can be set by the conditions, and rinsing with water while these
conditions are maintained removes of alkali and converts the cellulose to a new crystaline
structure, fixing the dimensions.
Mercerizer m/c specification -

M/C Name Mercerizer m/c

Company Name Benninger
Made in Germany
Year of construction 2009
No. of Washers 6
Pre – Washers 2
Post –Washers 4
Volume of washers 1200 Ltr
No. of motors in m/c 55
No. of Squeezers in m/c 9
Volume of mercerization bath 2000 Ltr
Type of mercerization Cloth mercerization
Type of machine Chain mercerization (stenter mercerization)
Mercerize condition Wet mercerization
Tension Tension mercerization
72
Type of alkali Caustic soda

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Parameters of m/c –
Speed of m/c 60 m/min

Temp. Of washers 90 DC
Squeezers pressure 1 – 1.4 Kilo Newton (KN)
Load cell tension 150 to 200 N
Fabric Dwell time 22 sec (60m/min)
Impregnation tank (caustic bath) temp. 60 DC
Stabilization tank temp. 90 DC
Process Hot mercerize
Entry guide pressure 0.5 to 15 bar
Pre washer 11 & 12 temp. 90°c
Impregnation tank temp 60°c
IP Tank Caustic GPL 100 – 267 GPL
Rotary filter on/off ON
Post washer 19 to 21 temp 90°c
Post washer 22 temp 60°c
Exit J scary nip pressure 1-2 kg/cm²
Exit J scary dancer pressure 3-4 kg/cm²
Exit J scary guider pressure 5-1 kg/cm²
Batching pressure 1-2 kg/cm²
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DYEING
DEPARTMENT
74
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Dyeing is the process of adding color to the fabric. There are two key factors in dyeing
temperature and time controlling.
Objective of dyeing department – Uniform dyeing
To no. of dyeing machines –
Jigger – 5
Jet dyeing- 4
Soft flow dyeing -2
Thermosol dyeing- 1
Washing and drying machine- 1
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Dyeing department
JETDYEING
Jet dyeing machines consist of a closed tubular system where the fabric is placed. For
transporting the fabric through the tube a jet of dye liquor is supplied through a venture. The jet
creates turbulence. This helps in dye penetration along with preventing the fabric from touching
the walls of the tube.
The solution is filled in the dye tank and it reaches the heat exchanger where solution can be
heated which then pass onto the centrifugal pump and then to the filter chamber. The solution is
filtered and reaches the tubular chamber. Here the material to dye will be loaded and the machine
is rotated.
FLOW OF FABRIC
Manufacturer FONG’S
Model ECO-8-ST
Liquor ratio 1:5-1:8
Max fabric capacity 200 kg
Fabric Speed 60-600 (m/min)
Max working temperature 1400C
Suitable for fabric 200 ~700 g/m
Heating gradient 1000C ~1300C
Cooling gradient 1000C ~ 800C
Max working pressure 0.40Mpa
Main pump power 14.7 KW
Ingredients
 Disperse dye
 Dispersing agent
 Leveling agent
 Acetic acid
 Water
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Advantages
 Dyeing time is short compare to beam dyeing

 While at the dye within two rope- like fabric of a lightweight fabric can increase the load of
high speed to ensure even dyeing cloth and prevent the formation of creases
 Low fabric tension – tension sensitive fabrics suitable for inclined cylinder fabric smooth
movement
 gentle flow ensures smooth fabric surface of the fabric quality fabric washing clean surface
of the continuous, uniform temperature distribution at the same time reducing the crease
 CU sprinkler systems to clean the fabric surface dirt while the cylinder volume temperature
uniformity
 Low consumption of water
 Short dyeing time
 Comparatively low liquor ratios, typically ranges between 1:4 and 1:20
Parts of the machine
 Main vessel
 Reel
 Heat exchanger
 Nozzle
 Reserve bank
 Chemical dosing tank
 Utility lines
 Controlling unit
 Different types of motors and valves
Jet dyeing machines

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JIGGER DYEING
The fabric passes from one roller to other roller through dye solution at the bottom of the
machine. When all the fabric has passed through the bath, the direction is reversed. After dyeing,
the material is rinsed to remove unfixed dyes and if needed additional washing is also done in the
jigger dyeing machine.
Parameters
 Trough
 Stainless steel compartment
 Take up and let off roller
 Pump for liquor circulation
 Quick liquor discharge
 Stainless steel guiding frame
 Stainless steel side tank

No. of machine 5
Make India
Manufactured Harish
Year of Manufacture
Speed 10-100 m/min

Fixed speed of loading and unloading 60 m/min
Maximum temperature 980c
Fabric tension in practice Depends on fabric type
Max. batch diameter 700 mm – 1100 mm
Advantages
 Suitale for all kind of shades.

 Excellent colour fastness properties are achieved in jigger.
 The jigger is a short liquor dyeing machine for textile fabrics in open-width form.
 Small lots can be easily processed in jigger machine.
Reactive dyes 2-4 %

Wetting agent 0.5 %
Sodium chloride(exhausting agent) 5%
Sodium carbonate(fixing agent) 1-2 %
Soap 0.5 %
Water Remaining
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Layout of Jigger dyeing machine
Dyeing of half width fabric Control panel

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Jigger dyeing machine

THERMOSOL DYEING
Thermosol dyeing is a continuous dyeing process for synthetic fibers and their blends. Various
auxiliaries are used in thermosol dyeing, including buffers, anti-migrants and wetting agents.
Manufactured MONFORTS
Model OPTIDYE WF
Year of Manufacture 2010
Speed 169 m/min
Temperature 180-220 °C
Padder Menzel
Length of each chamber 3mtr
Chambers 5(3 for drying and 2 for curing)
Drying units heating Oil Heating System
Liquor Change after 3-4min
Padder capacity 100-150liters
Padding bath volume 100 - 150 ltr
IR drying units 2
Process
At first fabric is padded with dye solution using above recipe in a three bowl padding mangle.
Then the fabric is dried at 100°C temperature in dryer. For dyeing,infra-red dying method is an
ideal method by which water is evaporated from fabric in vapor form. This eliminates the
migration of dye particles.
Then the fabric is passes through thermosol unit where thermo fixing is done at about 205°C
temp for 60-90 seconds depending on type of fiber, dye and depth of shade.in thermosol process
about 75-90% dye is fixed on fabric. After thermo fixing the unfixed dyes are washed off along
with thickener and other chemicals by warm water. Then soap wash or reduction cleaning is done
if required.
Sequence of dyeing
Fabric inlet
J-Box
Dye padding
VTGR
IR Dryer-1+2
Drying Unit
Curing
Cooling cylinder
80
J-Box
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Fabric outlet
Parts of machine
 Fabric inlet section
 Cooling roller
 Chemical mixing
 Dye padding unit
 VTGR(airing zone)
 Pre dryer (IR dryer)
 Hot air flow drying unit
 Curing chamber
 Cooling roller
 J-Box
 Fabric outlet
 Control panel
Reactive dye Disperse dye

Nova yellow CRG 0.76 gm/l Nova yellow 4.80 gm/l
Nova red C-2 BL 0.72 gm/l Nova red C-2 BL 0.72 gm/l
Nova blue CR 0.53 gm/l Nova blue CR 0.53 gm/l
Primasol-v 10 gm/l Primasol-v 10 gm/l
Primasol-NF 2 gm/l Primasol-NF 2 gm/l
Urea 50 gm/l Urea 50 gm/l
Soda ash 10 gm/l Soda ash 10 gm/l
Fabric speed 50 m/min Fabric speed 50 m/min
Temperature 120-130°C Temperature 120-130°C
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Control panel
Layout of thermosol dyeing machine
Fabric left –off motion chemical storage tanks

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SOFT FLOW DYEING
The water is used for keeping fabric in circulation.it operates with a hydraulic system and the
fabric robe is kept circulating during the whole processing cycle. There is no stopping of liquor or
fabric circulation for usual drain and fill steps. There is a system for fresh water to enter the
vessel via a heat exchanger to a special interchange zone. at the same time the contaminated
liquor is allowed channel out through a drain without any sort of contact with the fabric or for that
matter the new bath in the machine.
No. of machines 2
Manufactured SCLAVOS
Model Athena 3A
Capacity 1200 Kgs
Temperature 3 °C /Min upto 135°C
Steam pressure 6 Bar
Cooling rate 4°C/Min
Maximum working temperature 135°C
Maximum working pressure 3.2 Bar
Features
 Double soft floating systems

 Open plaiting system with liquor by pass
 Double rope operation system
 To know liquor ratio system – unique SCLAVOS system measuring the liquor ratio during
dyeing process precisely.
83
 Variable loading system

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 Operation by automatic adjustments

Advantages
 The vigorous agitation of fabric and dye formulation in the cloth increases the dyeing rate
and uniformity.
 The soft flow machines are gentler on the fabric than conventional jet machines .
 It minimizes creasing as the fabric is not held in any one configuration for very long.
 The fabric is transported by a stream of dye liquor.
Machine Size: A = 5730 B = 4300 C = 1230 D = 930 E = 3380 F = 4530
84
Soft flow dyeing machines in the factory

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WASHING AND DRYING MACHINE
It is based on the combination of air-only fabric transport that delivers a strong and delicate action
at the same time, and the high speed crashing of the material against a special grid. This
provides a mechanical and permanent effect of softening and natural compaction of the fibers.
Process:
The fabric in the rope form is pneumatically introduced into an ejector tube where it receives a
considerable thrust which carried it through the ejector tube and with the accumulated kinetic
energy crashes it against a grid positioned in the rear of the machine.
The fabric falls onto a Teflon – coated slide that carries it to the treatment vat, where appropriate
rollers guide the fabric to the beginning of a cycle.
No. of machine 1
Make Europe
Manufactured AIRO
Model DUE
No. of channels 2
Loading capacity 600 m/channel
Processing Speed 1000 m/min
Drying capacity 175 kg/h
Form Rope
Width 350 cm
Maximum treatment temperature 170°C
Maximum water temperature 95°C
Production 1200m
Efficiency 75.00%
Features
 Air flow drying and softening on any kind of fabric.
 Mechanical chemical- free softening on dry fabric and with steam application, or after application
of chemical products.
 Softness, drape, volume, dimensional stability, elasticity and sewability..
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Finishing
department
86
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What is finishing-
The process by which textile materials are made suitable for marketing to satisfaction or
attraction of buyer is called finishing.
Objective of finishing-
1) To improve feel of the fabric.

2) To improve appearance of the fabric.
3) To improve wearing properties of fabric.
4) To impart functional properties.
5) To increase sale value of the fabric.
Classification of finishing-
Finishing
Mechanical finishing chemical finishing
Temporary Permanent Stiff, Soft, Resin finishing

Finish Finish
1) Calendering 1) Raising
2) Sanforizing
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Chemical use in finishing department-
Finishing Nature PH Appearance 100% / 50%

chemicals
Ultrawhite RNI OBA for Synthetics 6.5 Liquid 100.00%
Ultrafix URN OBA for Synthetics 6.5 Liquid 100.00%
Skay white OBA for Cellulose 8.5 Liquid 100.00%
BMF OBA for Cellulose 8.5 Liquid 100.00%
Reactofine Reactive Softner 6 Liquid 50.00%
Alvin B2 Non-ionic Softner 6 Liquid 50.00%
Revolux 500T Softner 6 Liquid 50.00%
Volvoxil IQ Softner 6.5 Liquid 50.00%
Fibrosoft HSS Softner 6.5 Liquid 100.00%
24E Softner 6 Liquid 100.00%
Fibrosoft SPL Softner 6.5 Liquid 100.00%
PL-126 Softner 6 Liquid 100.00%
Softgel Softning agent 6 Liquid 25.00%
Glycerin Softning agent 6.5 Liquid 100.00%
Cybersoft Softner + Body 6 Liquid 50.00%
UVH Stiffner 6 Liquid 50.00%
Metacol Conc. Stiffner 6.5 Liquid 100.00%
Fibrotex PFW Stiffner 7.5 Liquid 50.00%
Sarcot (PVA) Stiffner 6.5 Liquid 50.00%
Arkofix Resin 6 Liquid 100.00%
URK Resin 01/02/15 Liquid 100.00%
Resin UF Resin 6 Liquid 100.00%
Emditex MB Body 6.5 Liquid 50.00%
UPE Poly Emulsifier 7.5 Liquid 100.00%
Polysol-EM Plastisizer 6 Liquid 50.00%
Acetic Acid Neutralizer 2 Liquid 100.00%
NIWLF-9 Weting agent 6 Liquid 100.00%
DMH Crosslinking agent 6 Liquid 100.00%
Fixer-CCL 8 Liquid 50.00%
Anti slipping agent
Fornax-W Anti Slipping agent 6 Liquid 100.00%
Triquest Sequestring agent 10 Liquid 100.00%
Magnesium Catalyst 6 Solid 100.00%
88
(MgCl2)
Page
No. of Machines in finishing department - 12
A) STENTER -- Cotton fabrics, after bleaching process, shrinks widthwise and weft gets
distorted. The main function of the Stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the
uniform width of the fabric.
Objective of Stenter Machine –1) Finishing of fabric i.e. Soft, Stiff, Resin.
2) Heat setting of synthetics.
3) Drying of the fabric.
4) Stretching of fabric into uniform width.
Process control parameters-
 Guide rollers & expanders.
 Concentration of chemicals.
 Nip pressure.
 Chamber temperature.
 Dwell time.
 Blower fan.
 Overfeed.
 Underfeed.
 Width of the fabric in exit.
 Inspection of pins/clips.
No. Of Stenter – 3 1) Harish Stenter (5 Chamber)

1) Harish Stenter (8 Chamber)
2) Monfort Stenter(7 Chamber)
1) Harish Stenter (5 Chember) - Efficiency:-75%

Make India
Manufactured HARISH
Model DLXin
Speed 30m/m for stiff finish, 50m/m for regular
finish
Heating medium Oil
No. of Chambers 5
Length of each chamber 3 mtr
No. Of exhaust 2
No. Of blower 10
RPM of blower fans 100% - 1440 rpm
Padding 2 Deep 2 Nip
Padding bath volume 150 lit
No. Of pins 678
89
Actual production 14400mtr (8 hrs)

Page
Std. Production 19200mtr

Flow Sequence of Machine-
Tension roll
Guide roller
Guider
Padding Mangle
Guide roller
Bianco
Guide roller
Chain
Chamber
Cooling cylinder
Guide roller
Guider
Batcher.
2) Harish Stenter (8 Chember) – Efficiency:80%
Make India
Manufactured HARISH
Model DLXin
Year of Manufacture March 2009
Speed 75 mtr/min
Heating medium Oil
No. of chembers 8
No. Of exhaust 2
No. of blower 16
RPM of blower fans 100% -1440 rpm
Padding 2 Dip 2 Nip
Padding bath volume 150 ltr
No. Of pins 1014
Actual production 20000mtr (8hrs)
Std. Production 24800mtr(8hrs)
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Page
Feed roll
Entry Scray
Bianco
Guider
Padding Mangle
Bianco
Guide roller
Chain
Chamber
Cooling cylinder
Draw roll
Exit Scray
Guide roller
Guider
Batcher.
3) Monfort Stenter (7 Chember) – Efficiency:90%
Make Germany
Manufactured Monforts
Model Montex6500 7F
Speed 70-80m/m
Heating medium Oil
No. of Chambers 7
No. Of exhaust 2
No. Of blower fans 14
RPM of blower fans 100%-1440 rpm
Padding 1 Deep 1 Nip
Padding bath volume 150ltr
No. Of pins 926
Actual production 23600mtr (8hrs)
91
Std. Production 27800mtr (8hrs)

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Feed roll
Entry Scray
Guider
Guide roller
Padding Mangle
Guide roller
Bianco
Guide roller
Chain
Chamber
Cooling cylinder
Draw roll
Exit Scray
Guide roller
Guider
Batcher.
92
Stenter machine Control panel

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B) CURING / POLYMERIZER - Efficiency:-70%
Make India
Manufactured HARISH
Model RESINEX
Year of manufactured 2009
Speed 40m/m (D.T.:-4min)
Heating medium Oil
No. Of chambers 8
No. Of exhaust 2
No. Of blower fans 16
Std. Production 21216mtr (8hrs)
Actual production 14960mtr (8hrs
Tension roll
Guide roller
Feed roller
Entry Scray
Guide roller
Guider
Guide roller
Chamber
Cooling cylinder
Draw roll
Exit Scray
Guide roller
Guider
93
Batcher.
Page
C) CALENDERING-It is defined as modification of surface of fabric by action of Heat &
Pressure.
Objective of Calendering- 1) To improve lusture of the fabric.
2) To improve feel of the fabric.
3) To increase the opacity of the fabric.
4) To increase coverage of the fabric.
 Nip pressure.
 Speed.
 Metal detector.
 Selvedge detector.
 Width of the fabric.
 Threading.
 Roller surface.
 Temperature of steel bowl.
Make Italy
Manufactured Ramisch Guarneri
Model RGK.NIPCO L2000
Type of calendaring Compact calendering
Speed 50m/m
Temperature of steel roll 1500c
Heating medium Oil
Nipco/steel pressure 200N/mm
Nipco/cotton pressure 250N/mm
Std. Production 24000mtr
Actual production 18000mtr
Efficiency 75.00%
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Calendaring machine control panel

Tension roll
Guide roller
Guider
Metal detector
Selvedge detector
Guide roller
NIPCO & Steel roller
NIPCO & Cotton roller
Guide roller
Batcher
.
95
Routine checking of machine

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D) RAISING-
Objective of Raising –
Raising is the technique use to produce brushed or napped appearance. In this process the
fibres are deliberately pool down from the yarn structure to get raised effect.
Make Italy
Manufactured Lafer
No. of drums 2
No. of brush rollers on each drum 24
Drum speed 100 mtr/min
Machine speed 10 mtr/min.
Upper drum tension 7%
Lower drum tension 7.5%
Tension roller
Guide roller
upper drum
brush roller
guide roller
tension roller
guide roller
lower drum
brush roller
guide roller
tension roller
guide roller
96
batcher
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Brush roller of raising machine
E) SHEARING-
Objective of shearing-
 To reduce hairiness on fabric.
 To improve feel of fabric.
Make Germany
Model Peerless xs2-2000

Manufacture Xetma
Year of manufacturing 2009
Speed 18mtr/min
No. of cutters 4
 Metal detector
 Seam detector
97
 Abrasion
Page
 Cut or hole formation

 Shearing efficiency
 Machine efficiency
Flow sequence of machine-
Tension roll
Metal detector
Drag roller
Tension roller
Selvedge detector
Guider
Guide roller
Tension roller
Cutter
Guide roller
Tension roller
Cutter
Guide roller
Tension roller
Cutter
Guide roller
Tension roller
Cutter
Guide roller
Tension roller
Batcher
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F) SANFORIZING-
Objective of Sanforizing- 1) In this process shrinkage is given to the fabric.
2) It gives the soft feel of fabric.
Principle of Sanforizing-
In Sanforizing first fabric is passed in the damping unit to add the moisture where it absorb water
from the damping then the same fabric is passed into the rubber unit. In rubber unit the shrinkage
is given to the fabric. After rubber unit fabric goes to felt unit. In felt unit the fabric passed
between woolen felt & hot role.
Different Quality use in finishing -100% Cotton, PV, PC etc.
Tension roll
Feed roller
Entry Scray
Tension bar
Guide roller
Guider
Drag roller
Weko
Moisture roll
Guide roller
Rubber belt
Woolen Blanket
Cooling cylider
Guide roller
Draw
roller
Exit Scray
Guide roller
99
Guider
Page
Batcher.
Make Germany
Manufactured Monforts
Model Monfortex
Speed 40-50mtr/min
Rubber unit temperature 1150c
Felt unit temperature 1250c
Rubber pressure 1-10mm
Process control parameter set for the different sort on stenter-

Sort Blend% O/F Speed( Process In width Out width Temp GLM
no. % m/m) (cm) (cm)
6016 100% Cot 12.00% 15 Stiff finish 152 155 190 380
5116 100%Cot 13.00% 19 Stiff finish 170 181 180 370
5117 100% cot 12.00% 20 Medium 170 182 180 301

Stiff
4777 100% cot 4.00% 55 Medium 86 91 160 67

Stiff
1707 100% cot 9.00% 45 Medium 111 113 150 152

Stiff
5096 67Pol,33Vis 4.00% 45 Soft finish 175 184 180 288
5097 67Pol.,33Co 3.00% 40 Soft finish 175 184 160 142

t
4554 100% Cot 3.00% 40 Stiff+Resin 160 182 160 123
5100 67Pol,33vis 3.00% 50 Soft finish 170 184 160 115
4861 52Lin,48Cot 4.00% Soft+Resin 143 152 160 199
5102 38Pol,41vis, 3.00% 40 Soft finish 182 184 160 224

21fil
4869 67Pol.,33Co 2.00% 50 Soft finish 88 91 120 138

t
100
4707 67Pol,33vis 2.00% 45 Medium 106 115 180 203

Stiff
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4873 30Pol,35Cot 2.50% 55 Medium 142 149 150 161
,35Vis soft
4577 100% Cot 2.00% 40 Medium 172 184 150 126

Stiff
1744 80 Pol,20 2.00% 50 100% 145 149 210 200

Cot BPHS
5102 38Pol,41vis, 3.00% 45 Heat Set 178 182 210 224

21fil
5001 48 Pol,52 3.00% 55 Heat Set 108 114 210 130

Vis
5078 65 Pol,35 2.00% 45 100% 176 182 210 117

Vis BPHS
Process & conditions-

Process Finish Shearing Sanforizing
Speed 55m/m 18m/m 45m/m
Stiff Finish
EM-335gpl
Fixer ccl-65gpl
BMF-6gpl
Acidic acid-1gpl
NIWLF-1gpl
Process & Condition-

Process Finish
Speed 20m/m
Pressure 5/5(mangle pressure)
Temperature 1800c (chamber)
Soft + Resin Finish-

UF-130gpl
101
Acrylic-110gpl
Page
Cybersoft-9gpl
Mgcl2-26gpl
Softgel-2gpl
BMF-3gpl
Acidic acid-1gpl
NIWLF-1gpl
Soft + Stiff + Resin Finish- NIWLF-1gpl

URK-30gpl M.tex-22gpl
Sarcot-45gpl BMF-6gpl
Acrylic-45gpl Acidic acid-1gpl
Control panel display of Sanforising machine
102
Layout of sanforising machine

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WOVEN FUSING
Objective : To make uniform thickness woven fusing

 Uniform spreadering of HDP powder on fabric
Dot coating line used for coating fabric for interlining. Dot coating hopper is used in dot coating
interlining machine. Hopper made from S.S.304 grade material with agitator drive for powder
scattering. Chilled water cooling jacket ,doctor blades, one fixed and one adjustable for metered
quatity of powder loading , air duct for suction provided.
Manufactured Novatech
Model Vellars
Speed 25-35 m/min
Coating mode Powder dot
Coating material High density polymer
Heating mode Conduction oil heating
Effective width 1650 mm
Base cloth orientation
Opening
Selvdge justifying
Coating
Curing
Flat padding
Cooling
winding
Parts
 Un-winder
 Pneumatic compensator
 Fabric centering device
 Coating head
 Hopper
 Infrared zone
 Calendar
 Winder
Features
 Compact structure,easy operation,reliable fuction
 Hot melt powder transfer coating machine is used in garment industry.
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 It coats PA or HDPE in hot melt dot form onto the fabric.

 Use hot melt powder, 100% solid without any pollution
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 Conduction oil heating is used

 Hot melt powder transfer coating machine transfers the powder to coat smooth and
frugally.
Powder dot fusing machine6
Routine checkpoints of the machine

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S.Q.C (Spinning Quality Control) Department
There are three types of inspections that are carried out;
1. Raw Material Inspection and approval Length, Strength and Micronair are tested.
2. In Process testing
3. Final Inspection of the yarn.
There are two types of faults;
1. Imperfections – which occur frequently but are very small Eg : Thick and thin places ,
neps, etc. These faults are measured over a length of 400mts and are expressed per
kilometer.
2. Classified faults – which are very big faults but occur less frequently. These faults have
to be completely cleared.
3.
YARN DEFECTS
1. Thick place
2. Thin place
3. Chaff in yarn – yarn exhibits a scissor like cut of which the reason is unknown.
4. Cut ends – yarn gets cut due to damage to the cone(cone falling and hitting a sharp
surface)
5. Slub
6. End breaks after knot
7. Yarn remnants wound in
8. Tip Damage
9. Snarl
10. Fly in comb(direct warping comb)
11. Triple end knot
12. Back winding
13. Multiple breaks
14. Damaged cones
15. Foreign matter
16. Unknown defects
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Humidity: - 65±2% relative humidity
Temperature: - according to ISO 139.1973 or DIN 53 802 20±2 °C for temperate climates 27±2
°C for tropical climates
1. Uster tester - 5
-Determination of the mass unevenness by help of the irregularity.

-Determination of the mass unevenness by help of the coefficient of variation.
-Determination of the unevenness for cut lengths of 1, 3, 10, 50 or 100 m.
Speed, time & material test
Machine Test Sliver Roving Yarn

Speed 25mtr/min 50mtr/min 400mtr/min
Time 2.5min 2.5min 1 min
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2. Wrap Reel
Wrap Reel is used to check denier/count of yarn or to prepare lea.
Features of Wrap Reel:
 The equipment consists of solidly constructed swift/wheel.

 It has traverse mechanism.
 Wrap reel is fitted with a digital counter.
 It is powered by a special geared motor.
 It is automatic.
Specifications of Wrap Reel:
Swift Perimeter : 1 Meter (optional) or 1.5 yards

Number of leas made at a time :6
Spread of each lea : 20 mm
Overall Dimensions of the main Unit : 450mm (L), 260mm (W), 360mm (H).
Net Weight of the main Unit : 4.000 Kg.
Overall Dimensions of the cone Unit : 280mm x 260mm x 500mm
Net Weight of the cone Unit : 2.200 Kgs (approx).
Controls : MAIN, ZERO/RESET CONTROLLER.
How Wrap Reel Works?
Bobbins/Yarn Cones are placed on the Yarn Cone Stand.

The end of the yarn has to be passed through the Tensioning Device into the ceramic eyelids,
through to the ceramic pigtail and finally onto the plate with screw heads. The free end of the yarn
has to be tied on the screw head by making few rounds.
The main is put on and the counter is set at desired setting (90 for Denier) with the help of thumb
wheel setting. After the required revolutions, Wrap Reel will stop automatically. The free end of
each of the Leas has to be united with the other end of the same Leas. The Bobbin side near the
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knot has to be cut.The collapsible mechanism is lowered in the swift/wheel. The made-out leas
can be used for determination of count or strength of the yarn etc.
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3. Lea yarn strength tester
Tensile Testing / Lea Strength is to determine the tensile strength and elongation of metal
threads, metal wire, ropes, lea & fabric.
Tensile Testing / Lea Strength consists of lower stationary base plate, a fixed cross tie on two
supporting columns and a movable crosshead using a lead screw and nut mechanism. The
Tensile Testing Machine has been designed in such way that one testing space is suitable for
extra-long test sample, having long elongation.
Features of Tensile Testing / Lea Strength:

 The facility of controlling the test via Microcontroller with Max-force, Tenacity & elongation.
 Data safety facility is also available.
 Max hold test can be carried very effectively.
 Extremely powerful internal software makes the machine versatile.
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Specifications of Tensile Testing / Lea Strength:
Force Rating : 000.0 - 9.999, 00.00 - 99.99 & 100.0 - 999.9 Kg

Force Resolution : 1gm below 10 Kg, 10 gm upto 100 Kg & 100 gm up to 1000 Kg
Force measurement accuracy : ±0.5% of FSD
2 Grips included : Pneaumatic Grip, Mechanical grip
Power Supply : 230 V AC, 50Hz, Single Phase
Size & Weight : 18" x 18" x 48", 100 Kg
Count CV, Strength report of Lea Tester
Count Lea Avg Count CV Strength Strength CV C.S.P

weight in Count % %
gm
16.5 OE 3.935 16.46 0.72 111 5.06 1829
20 OE 3.262 19.86 1.09 96 4.77 1909
20 TCKD 3.19 20.31 1.04 206 4.7 4187
20 TCCB 3.17 20.44 0.88 185 4.29 3781
30 TV 2.164 29.94 1.41 144 5.91 4324

30 TC 2.141 30.27 1.77 128 4.68 3884
40 TC 1.625 39.87 1.65 90 5.78 3576
40 CB 1.614 40.13 0.92 64 5.42 2548

40 CMP 1.623 39.92 0.87 88 4.31 3496
40 CLC 1.599 40.54 1.74 71 5.99 2893
45 PV 1.427 45.41 1.19 76 4.8 3450
45 TV 1.426 45.42 1.04 86 4.54 3915
50 MPCM 1.291 50.18 1.22 80 5.01 4020
55 TCHT 1.171 55.32 1.08 55 4.92 3042
80 MTC 0.808 80.17 1.78 39 5.76 3156

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4. AFIS pro
Features of the machine
1. Optimizing card maintenance cost by monitoring card sliver nep levels to manage grinding
and reclosing schedules better
2. Optimizing comber noil removal by monitoring short fiber, trash and nep removal
efficiencies
3. Optimizing cleaning efficiencies by monitoring trash removal efficiency in the blowroom
and carding machines
4. Optimizing machine settings by monitoring variability and reduction in fiber quality
properties throughout processing
5. Reducing yarn imperfections by monitoring short fiber, fiber fineness, and nep level
variability throughout processing
6. Improving spinning efficiency by monitoring short fiber, trash, neps, seed coat neps, fiber
fineness level and variability throughout processing
7. Reducing fabric dyeing defects by monitoring fiber maturity level and variability throughout
processing to prevent fabric barré faults.
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Nep removal efficiency report of AFIS PRO
1. Count :- 16.5 OE
Card :- DK - 780
Cotton :- MECH - B
Card mat :- 740.7
Card sliver :- 528.1
Neps removal efficiency :- 28.70 %
Identifier Sample type Nep cnt/g Nep um

Bale opener Mixing 288 717
Bale opener After MBO 511 743
Bale opener After CVT3 413 753
Card no. 1 Card mat 753 748
Card no. 1 Card sliver 702 706
Mean 593 714
S.D 163 52
C.V % 27.5 7.3
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2. Count :- 60 CB
Card: - C 1/3
Card mat: - 199.2
Card sliver: - 83.7
Neps removal efficiency: - 57.98 %
Identifier Sample type Nep Nep

cnt/g um
Bale opener Mixing 91 720
Bale opener After RK 164 713
Card no.17 Card mat 211 684
Card no.17 Card sliver 90 658
Card no.18 Card mat 180 690
Mean 138 690
S.D 59 45
C.V % 42.8 6.5
um – micro meter
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5. H.V.I ( High Volume Instrument)
Span length, uniformity & micronair report

Samp Length Length Uniformity Strength % Elongation Amount S.F.C Micronair
le no. 1 (mm) 2 (mm) %
433 13.81 29.33 47.1 22.27 9.2 642 4.7 3.6
434 15.06 29.76 50.6 23.66 9.1 674 3.5 3.7
435 15.54 30.41 51.1 24.47 9.7 689 3.5 3.8
436 15.07 30.61 49.2 23.07 9.3 782 3.5 4
437 17.79 35.45 50.2 30.21 11 592 3.5 3.2
438 18.35 35.74 51.3 28.63 10.8 681 3.5 3.3
439 17.61 35.45 49.7 27.94 10.4 696 3.5 3.1
SFC – Short Fiber content

6. Yarn Twist Tester
Electronic Twist Tester is used to test single yarn and double yarn. Specimen length adjustable
from 0 to 20 inch or 0 to 50 cms.
 Provision to test S and Z twist

 Results are displayed in TPI (twist per Inch)and TPM(twist per meter). Minimum number of
control switches for complete use
The instrument has facility of both untwist/twist methods for measurement of TPM of twisted yarn.
Features of Automatic Twist Tester:
 Micro-controller based electronic twist tester.

 Motor driven fully automatic instrument.
 Auto stop facility for motor.
 In-built sensor.
 Alphanumeric backlit LED display unit.
 Keyboard with 16 soft touch keys.
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Specifications of Automatic Twist Tester:
– Yarn test length: 25mm to 500 mm adjustable (metric unit). The test length is
automatically taken into account for calculation and final reading is displayed directly
in TPM.
– Range: Up to 9999 TPM.
– Resolution: 1 TPM.
– Elongation Range: Up to 9999 TPM.
– : With tolerance of -15mm or 0.6 inch for movement in other direction.
– Motor Speed: Up to 1000 RPM
– : Manual control of rotation is possible by hand.
– Clamps : Spring loaded clamps at motor end for easy clamping of yarn.
– : Toggle clamp at spool end for easy, quick and continuous clamping of yarn through
spool.
– Averaging : Reading of all samples can be stored and average TPM/TPI value is
calculated through computer.
– Supply : 230 V AC, 30 Watts.
– Size : 1000mm x 150mm x 200mm (approx).
– Suitable for S/Z type of twisted yarns.
 Electronic sensor for sensing zero (starting) position.
 Tension weight up to 100 gms adjustable in step of 5 gms.
 Yarn spool mounting arrangement at one end of the twist tester.
How Automatic Twist Tester Works?
The first step is to select the method/mode to be chosen. The yarn has to be clamped
between 2 clamps. ‘S’ or ‘Z’ key has to be selected depending upon twist direction. The
stopper at the left front side of the Automatic Twist Tester has to be set at approx. 50% of
expected elongation. The motor has to be started by pressing the ‘START’ key. The motor
will start untwisting the yarn and LED display will start counting. Reading will be stored in
connected computer automatically in specific serial number.
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6. Yarn Appearance Board Machine
Yarn Appearance Board Winder is used for wrapping the yarn in equally spaced parallel wraps
over a board for visual examination.
Features of Yarn Appearance Board Winder:
 Manually operated.
 Checks the evenness & appearance of yarn.
 Precise preparation for accurate assessment of imperfection to grade the yarn against
photographic comparison standards.
 Is used for winding the yarn on the blackboard for visual examination and grading the yarn as
per ASTM standards.
 Choices of wide range of rectangular and tapered boards.
Specifications of Yarn Appearance Board Winder:
Over all Dimension of the Unit : 61 (W) cm x 35 (D) cm x 27.5 (H) cm.
Size of Tapered Board : 28.5cm x 18 cm.
Size of Rectangular Board : 28.5cm x 18 cm
Standard Yarn Spacing : 20, 22, 26, 32, 38, and 48 WRAPS per INCH
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Net Weight of the Unit : 21 kg

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How Yarn Appearance Board Winder Works?
Wrapping Boards:
 Yarn number of the yarn to be tested has to be determined. The appropriate spacing of the
yarn wraps on the boards has to be found from the table.
 A parallel/tapered board has to be fixed onto the short stubs.
 The spacing of the yarn on the board has to be checked by making a small sample wrapping
on it.
 The moving block has to be raised. It is taken to the right side and released. The yarn guide
fixed on this block has to be in alignment with the point from where the winding will start. To
ensure this, a red mark is present on the guide road.
 The bobbin containing the yarn to be tested has to be placed on the stand. The yarn has to
be passed through the tensioning device and the eyes on the front bracket and moving block.
 The tension on the yarns has to be adjusted so that it moves freely onto the board as it is
rotated. Wrap the yarn over the board till a sufficiently wide band is formed.
 Cut off the yarn and remove the board from the apparatus.
Evaluation:
 Evaluating the evenness rating of the yarn by comparing the board against the master
photographs of the same spacing. The standard has 4 master photographs: A, B, C, and D in
each spacing.
 Comparing the specimen with the different ASTM Cotton Yarn Appearance Standards.
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Fabric Testing and Quality Control
Defects in warping
Snarling and Overlapping

These are caused by irregular yarn tension. The broken end is not tied-up by the operative with
the yarn end on the drum.
Different lengths of sections, High Wastage Rate

This is caused by over-or-under warping of sections, untimely laying of lease cords due to faulty
operation of the counter and the carelessness of operative.
Overlapping/Excessive Distance
The sections overlap each other or there is an excessive distance between them. This is caused
by support improperly set and the careless of warper operative.
Stripiness in the Warp

This is caused by improper mixing of raw material
Irregular Winding
Irregular winding on the warper's beam which is displaced towards one end. This is due to
improper position of the weaver's beam in warp beaming.
Different lengths of Ends

It also includes irregular distribution of the section in the weaver's beam width. This is caused by
improper fixing of section ends to the weaver's beam.
Excessive or insufficient number of yarn ends in the warp

This is caused by improper calculation at gaiting.
Warp Beaming on a defective weaver's beam

This is caused by carelessness of the assistant foreman and the warper operative.
Incorrect Laying of lease cords, or their absence in some sections

Again this is caused by carelessness of the warper operative.
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Defects in sizing
Density of sized beams: A loosely packed weaver's beam does not work well. The density is
mainly influenced by two factors:
a. effectiveness of the friction clutch or the DC drive
b. effectiveness of the bream pressing motion.
Broken ends, missing ends, crossed ends, sticky ends:

The major sources of all these faults are
a. lappers
b. invisible breaks during sizing
A lapper is an accumulation of layers of yarn on the warper's beam. Those end breaks during
sizing that do not form lappers are called invisible breaks. Both lappers and invisible breaks result
in missing and broken ends in the sized beams.
Crossed Ends- these are formed during weaving whenever the leading end is not available in
the appropriate place on the beam and, therefore, the weaver has to knot the trailing end to an
end that is far away. This happens because in some cases the leading end of an invisible break
migrates to a distant place.
Sticky ends - These are caused when broken ends from the warper's beam migrate to the yarn
of another warper's beam.
In order to control these faults, it is necessary to control the incidence of lappers and invisible
breaks.
Factors affecting lappers:

- End breakage rate at warping
- Efficiency of warp stop motion at warping
- condition of beam flanges (warper's)
Factors affecting invisible breaks

- High stretch at sizing
- weak places in the yarn
Defective selvedges
There are two types of defective selvedges that cause more difficulty in unwinding during
weaving than the ends of the beam. These are:
1. Sunken selvedges
2. Bulging selvedges
These defects can be controlled by

a. correctly setting the expandable comb at the headstock
b. Using the correct size of beam pressing roller so that it reaches both the beam flanges.
c. Ensuring that beam flanges are true.
Formation of ridges on the Beam
Ridges on the beam are formed when the ends that are taken in one dent of the comb do not
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spread out. To minimize the fault the eccentric dancing rollers at the headstock should be
adjusted properly.
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1. Crockmeter (Color fastness testing)
Crockmeter is used for testing the transference of

color from the surface of one material to another
by either wet or dry rubbing.
In addition to color transference tests, the
Crockmeter performs scuffing, wet / dry abrasion,
flexing, powdering, dry-cleaning, ink
abrasiveness, and other tests. Test conditions are
controlled and reproducible through the use of
standard pressure and motion.
Features of Crockmeter:
 To determine the Color Fastness of

Textiles.
 The equipment consists of a counter.
 It is provided with a flat peg.
 It also consists of an operating handle.
 Tests the color fastness of the textile in a
very accurate manner.
 It gives not only accurate but quick results
also.
Specifications of Crockmeter:
 Diameter of the Rubbing Finger : 16 mm & 25 mm

 Force on the Finger : 9 N & 20 N
 Size of Crocking Cloth : (5 x 5) Cms & (7 x7) cms
 Length of the Traverse : 100 ±5 mm
 Counter (Re-settable) : 4-Digit Counter
 Size of Test Specimen : 25 x 5 Cm
 Overall Dimension of the Unit : 600 (W) x 190 (D) x 200 (H) mm
 Net Weight of the Unit : 4 Kg. (9 lbs.)
 Construction : Cold-rolled steel
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2. Fabric Tear Strength Machine – Elma tear^2 Digital tear tester 855
The James Heal Elma tear tester is a powerful tester testing upto 128N.
It consists of a pendulum, a pendulum weight, check weights and specimen preparation
templates.
It is a digital machine and provides guidance and warnings throughout the process to help in
maintaining minimum User error.
The Elma Tear performs pendulum self-verification in one swing, a significant reduction in time on
the previous model and other similar products in the market. A two hand release mechanism
ensures the user is clear of the pendulum swing, and the blade is covered by a safety guard for
extra protection.
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3. Pilling test
Martindale Abrasion and Pilling machine by James Heal -This machine is used for testing the
abrasion resistance and pilling properties of textiles. This model has 9 testing stations.
Samples are rubbed against known abrasives at low pressures and in continuously changing
directions. The amount of abrasion or pilling is compared against standard parameters.
The individual sample holders for examination without lifting the top motion plate. It provides
individual counters and parking function, interval time settable and a large touch-screen display.
 Abrasion test
Max stroke of movement: 60.5+/-0.5mm
Weight of holder and spindle: 200+/-1g
 Pilling test
Max stroke of movement: 24+/-0.5mm
Weight of holder and spindle: 155+/-1g
4. Peel bond tester
This machine is used to test the strength of the bond

applied on interlining fabrics. This process is done by
peeling the interlining which is fused with another
fabric from each other, the strength required for
peeling is noted down.
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5. Yarn count test
Yarn count tester, automatically calculates count systems used for sliver, roving and yarn, and
can also be used for fabric yield. Yarn Count Tester consists of an accurate electronic balance
with a capacity of 400g or 200g x 0.001g and built-in calculating program.
Specifications:
 Display: Liquid Crystal Display (LCD ) with Backlight

 Operation: AC Adapter
 Construction: Metal base, ABS top housing, stainless steel pan, glass draft shield with
sliding top door, replaceable in-user cover
 Unit: tax, den, Nm
6. Fabric Tensile strength Test
Textile Tensile Testing Machine is designed to test a wide range of materials in tension, bursting,
tear, elongation, constant load, elastic, thread slip, peeling and other mechanical properties
Specifications:
 Test capacity: 500kgf (5000N)
 Test space: Width 400mm x Height 600 mm
 Load measurement accuracy: +/-0.2% (1%-100%FS)
 Resolution of load: 0.1N
 Speed range and accuracy: 0.01 - 1000mm/min, error ≤ ±

2%
 High-resolution digital closed-loop controller
 Operating temperature range: 0 to 38 degrees C
 Storage temperature range: -10 to 45 degrees C

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7. Shrinkage test
The shrinkage tester is used for testing the dimensional stability of fabrics, clothing and other
textiles after washing.
Specification:
 Revolution speed : Washing:52r/min, Dehydrating:(500±20)r/min;

 Water Level Control: low level:10cm high level:13cm
 Heating power: 5.4±2%KW
 Rated loading capacity:5kg
8. Stiffness Test
Fabric Stiffness Tester is used for testing the stiffness of fabric by the bending cycle test method
of ASTM.
Test Procedure
A plunger of 25.4mm (1 in) diameter pushes the fabric through a 38mm (1.5 in) diameter orifice
for a distance of 57mm (2.25 in) in 1.7 seconds and the maximum force is recorded.
Specification: Digital force gauge: 50 kg, 500N or 100lb (switchable) with peak-hold facility.
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8. Fabric GSM test
GSM testing machine is used for determining the weight per square meter of various materials
like woven, nonwoven, knitted fabrics, films, papers etc. We manufacture GMS Testing Machine
using high quality materials and supply them at specified requirements. This instrument cuts out
rapidly and accurately 100 square centimeter piece of various materials. This GSM Testing
Machine is made of high grade aluminum.
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Packaging
department
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PACKAGING
After all the dyeing and finishing processes are done, the fabric is inspected followed by platting,
cutting, pre-folding manual inspection and then folding. After the fabric is folded in sizes given by
the buyer, the fabric is given the branding of the mills using pre-made stencils. Each pack has a
barcode for the purpose of keeping track of the total number of packages using their unique
code. The fabric packages are then counted carefully and placed into big carton boxes to be
ready for shipping to the buyer
Process
Packaging Stamping Inspection Folding
Barcode Sticker Attachment and Labeling Manual Inspection after Folding
Polyethylene Packing Carton Packing Dispatch
STAMPING
The fabric after finishing process goes for stamping in which the name of the company and fiber
contented are stamped on the fabric selvedge using golden paint. It is done by the help of
machine. The machine consists of two wheels which carry paint and let – off and take –up roller.
The distance between two wheels can be adjusted according to width of the fabric.
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INSPECTION
.
The following categories of defects are looked out for during the inspection.
I. A narrow or fine-lined length or warpwise defect of a continuous or lengthy nature.
II. A narrow or fine-lined width or filling wise defect.
Ill. Isolated defects, such as general unevenness, neppy, fuzz balls, oil spots, color fly, knots,
slubs, etc.
IV. Pattern defects such as miss-selection of pattern, color misdraw, broken color pattern,
improper cover, etc.
V. Finishing defects.
VI. Printing defects.
The method is similar to the 4 point inspection system.

Rolls or bolts of fabric are visually inspected and individually graded at an examination station
using an agreed upon point system. Inspect and grade the total length of each roll or bolt
sampled. Fabrics shall be inspected full width and are passed longitudinally through the
inspection area at a visual inspection speed. Fabric may be stopped to grade when necessary to
affirm marginal defects and for defects flagging (marking). All defects visible at normal inspection
speed and distance of one yard or one meter shall be counted. Fabric is normally inspected and
graded on one side only. Certain types of end use fabrics may be inspected and graded on both
sides as agreed upon between the purchaser and supplier.
Apparatus:
It is recommended that a suitable fabric inspection machine that provides a flat viewing area and
a variable speed controlled fabric rewind with forward and reverse. It is at an angle for better view
of the inspector
Direct overhead lighting is used.
Lighting:
The overhead direct lighting source is mounted parallel

to the viewing surface to illuminate with direct
perpendicular impinging light rays. The illumination of
the surface has a standard value expressed in "lux''
The lighting source should be cool white preheat rapid
start fluorescent lamps having a correlated color
temperature of 4100 to 4500 K with white reflectors and
without baffles or glues, or other source by agreement
between the purchaser and supplier.
Back lighting (transmitted) light is used.
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FOLDING
Features:
 Suitable for all kinds of fabric.

 Variable speed from 0 – 30 mtrs/min.
 Selvedge guider for uniform plaiting.
 Tensionless handling of fabric through positive drive.
 Adjustable fold length 75 – 110 cms.
 Adjustable table lowering through special electro- mechanical controls depending upon the
fabric thickness.
 Table up down movement through electrical controls.
 Available for different width of fabric.
Plaiting Roll form
MANUAL INSPECTION AFTER FOLDING
This inspection is done by the workers, using the naked eye

to eliminate any further visible defects.
They maintain a handwritten record of the fabric as they
inspect it and then send it for packaging.
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BARCODE
Barcodes are attached to each package for easy identification and for
keeping a record of each and every package dispatched. This helps in
the final tally of the shipments ready to be dispatched, and
computerized records are easily made, they are also easily accessible
and time saving than manual records.
STICKER ATTACHMENT AND LABELLING
Labels Information of buyer and fabric
Stickers contain the branding of Ruby mills and are attached manually to the packages
individually. They form a major part of the final packaging because they contain the brand and
logo of Ruby mills.
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POLYETHENE PACKING
After sticker attachment, each package is wrapped in polyethylene bags which are transparent
and hence facilitate easy view and handling of the package while also protecting it from dust and
abrasion.
CARTON PACKING
The barcode is scanned and each package is packed in cartons which are labeled with the
necessary information and are ready to be dispatched. The information is hand written with black
ink or in cased of exports, it is painted using stencils in red color.
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Warehouse
DISPATCH
The Company has been exporting fabrics and yarn mainly to USA, Europe and UK, and its
products are well accepted in the Export Markets.
Warehouse Loading of final goods into the truck
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Warehouse entrance for dispatch for shipment

EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
Effluent treatment plant or ETP is essential to purify the waste water which comes from the
various processes like dyeing and finishing in the textile industry. The ETP of Ruby Mills is
located in the Kharsundi unit. The majority of the water consumption (72%) takes place in the
chemical (wet) processing of textiles. The water is required for preparing the fabric for
preparatory, dyeing and finishing operations, Intermediate washing / rinsing operations and
machine cleaning.
Textile dyeing industries need huge quantity of water for textile dyeing, which they normally pump
out repeatedly from the ground or natural water sources resulting in depletion of ground water
level.
In the dyeing process textile industries generate huge quantity of toxic effluent containing colors,
sodium sulphate, sodium chloride, sodium hydroxide and traces of other salts. These are
generated after dyeing and after washing of garments / fabrics. After dyeing the waste water
produced is called Dye Bath water and after washing the waste water generated is called wash
water. Dye Bath contains higher solids in the range 4-5% whereas wash water contains only 0.5-
1% solids
.
Effluent Treatment Plant Design
Textile industries (fabric dyeing and chemical treatment industries) are classified according to the
Environmental Conservation Rules 1997 as Red category industries, and therefore an ETP must
be designed and constructed to treat plant effluent. The effluent from the plant must meet the
national effluent discharge quality standards, including the “Quality Standards for Classified
Industries”, before discharge to the environment. These quality standards must be ensured at the
moment of beginning trial production. The waste discharge standards differ according to the final
disposal place of the effluent. The effluent standards are presented in Tables 4.3 and 4.4 (also
included in Part 1). It is the DOE’s mandate to enforce this legislation, and this guide provides the
tools required to assess the ETPs proposed by textile industries in the EMP/EIA.
There are generally four levels of treatment, as described below:
 Preliminary: Removal of large solids such as rags, sticks, grit and grease that may result in
damage to equipment or operational problems (Physical);
 Primary: Removal of floating and settable materials, i.e. suspended solids and organic
matter (Physical and Chemical);
 Secondary: Removal of biodegradable organic matter and suspended solids (Biological
and Chemical);
 Tertiary: Removal of residual suspended solids / dissolved solids (Physical, Chemical and
Biological)
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Process flow chart of the Effluent Treatment Plant:
 Primary filtration –
It is the first stage of effluent treatment plant, where effluents come from the various units of the
mill. This process is performed to remove solid waste particles.
 Cooling & Mixing
After primary filtration, the liquor passes to cooling and mixing tank in which uniform mixing of
effluents from various process takes place. A paddle mixer is provided for mixing. Cooling of the
effluent may be done with the help of cooling tower.
 Neutralization
The effluent is pumped to a tank in which it is neutralized by acid or alkali dozing. The tank has
an automatic dosing controller which at automatically control the dose of acid or alkali to maintain
the required PH. A pH meter is placed in the neutralization tank.
 Co-Agulation
The effluent is then transferred to a co-agulation bath where the effluent is made into a semi-solid
state.. Chemical co-agulation very effective for removal of color and suspended materials,
aluminum, ferrous sulphates, ferric chloride, chlorinate copper etc. to increase the efficiency of
co-agulation, co – agulation gain may be added for example polyacrylate.
 Setting & Separation of Sludge
Some of the soluble organic matter and light suspended solids will form a blanket of flocculent
matter with the co-agulants. The blanket is skimmed of to another tank and the remaining solution
is moved to pressure filter. The water is separated from the effluent which in turn becomes like
sludge. It is left in the sun to dry.
 Pressure Filter
Pressure filtration and carbon filtration are performed to remove further impurities. For pressure
filtration vacuum pumps may be used to force through the filter and suspended flocks are
collected in the pressure fine filter.
 Discharging
After all the processes are complete, the water is safe to be drained out. It is then let out in the
river from where it was pumped in. Before discharge into the river, it is also treated in an RO filter
.And the concentrated waste is dried under the sun and can be used for other purpose.
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Settling and coagulation of sludge Degradation of BOD by means of microbes
Concentrated waste dried under sunlight
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CONCLUSION
The textile internship which spanned over two weeks was a unique learning experience. It
perfectly complimented the knowledge we have gained in previous four semesters of our course.
Getting first hand practical experience in the mill helped us improve our understanding of the
concepts and understand commercial production and its various aspects in a better and clear
way. The management has high knowledge and are experienced and have problem solving skills.
The company is planning to widen its product range due to increasing demand
Our best experience during this whole term was seeing the worker’s side of production and living
their life. We travelled 2.5 hours to report to the factory at the same time as the other employees
and spent the day just like any other employee rather than a student. They treated us as their
own, even taking care of our food and facilities just like that of their employees.
On the whole, we had a great experience at Ruby Mills. Pvt. Ltd
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REFERENCE
 http://www.rubymills.com/
 http://www.texprocil.com/members/307.htm
 http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/
 http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/search/label/Finishing%20M%2FC
 http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6333/quality-assurance-in-garments
 https://www.textiletestingequipment.com/instrument-107/Fastness-Testing-
Equipments/textile_crockmeter_rubbing_fastness_tester.aspx
 https://www.textiletestingequipment.com/instrument-22/Strength-Testing-
Equipments/cable-wire-fabric-tensile-testing-lea-strength.aspx
 http://www.rubymills.com/products
 http://www.business-standard.com/company/ruby-mills-1437.html
 https://www.uster.com/fileadmin/customer/Knowledge/Textile_Know_How/Quality_
management/UT5-S800_TechnData-e.pdf
 https://www.uster.com/en/instruments/fiber-testing/uster-afis-pro/
 https://www.uster.com/en/knowledge/textile-know-how/
 https://www.james-heal.co.uk/en/elmatear
 https://www.james-heal.co.uk/en/pilling-snagging
BIBILOGRAPHY
 Textile Machines - Anna P. Benson
 Encyclopedia of textile finishing
 Textiles: Fiber to Fabric - B.P Corbman
 The Complete Technology Book on Textile Spinning, Weaving, Finishing and Printing (2nd
Revised Edition)
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Ruby Mills - Priya, Nihaarika, Joushita and Anamika

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Ruby Mills - Priya, Nihaarika, Joushita and Anamika

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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

A STUDY ON TECHNOLOGY OF YARN AND FABRIC MANUFACTURING

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Mr. Murugan Thangaraj

DFT, NIFT, Chennai

 Organization flow chart of the company

ii. Raw material

iii. Blow room

vi. Ribbon lap

viii. Draw frame

iv. Loom - 1.Rapier loom

2. Air jet loom

ii. Singeing + desizing

iv. Continuous bleaching range

ii. Jigger dyeing

iii. Thermosol dyeing

iv. Soft flow dyeing

v. Washing and drying machine

vii. Woven fusing

 Quality control and testing

ii. Warp reel

iii. Lea yarn strength tester

vi. Yarn Twist Tester

vii. Yarn appearance board

ii. Fabric Tear Strength Machine

iii. Pilling test

iv. Peel bond test

v. Yarn count test

vi. Fabric tensile strength test

vii. Shrinkage test

viii. Stiffness test

ix. Fabric GSM test

iv. Manual inspection after plaiting

vi. Sticker attachment and labeling

vii. Polyethene packing

viii. Cartoon packing

The two units are:

Dhamni Unit – Spinning and Weaving. (Weekly off on Tuesday)

Kharsundi Unit – Finishing and packing (Weekly off on Sunday)

The group manufacturers and markets following products

 Cotton Yarn 100 %

 Gold star (Spain) 1990.

Company Name: - The Ruby mill ltd.

Product: - 100 % cotton, Polyester blend woven fabric.

Located at – Dhamni Tal: Khalapur. Dist.: -Raigad

Vice- President Vice- President Vice- President Vice President

G.M. Technical & Production

Preparatory Weaving Maintenance & Q.C

Supervisor Operator Operator

Vice- President Vice- President Vice- President Vice President

G.M. Technical & Production

Preparatory Dyeing Finishing Maintenance & S.Q.C

Bale Bale Station/company Type/quality

Reliance industry Ltd.(surat) 1.0 x40 mm

Viscose 400-410 Birla cellulose (Gujarat ) 1.2 x38 mm

Raw Material Inspection

Station Type Party lot no. Mill lot no.

Pulgaon MECH-1 167 19

Chopda MECH-1 228 12

Kalmeshwar ( MECH-1 536 17

Georai ( Madhav DCH-32 88 24

Adilabad ( om shakti MCU-5(B) 159 8

Basic parameter to be consider in blow room process: