3D PRINTER MANUAL

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. SAFE OPERATION 3
2. ABOUT MAKEiT 3D PRINTER 4
2.1 Overview 4
2.2 Accessories 5
2.3 Tool Kit 5
2.4 Printer Data Sheet 6
2.5 Menu Operation Flowchart 7
3. SETUP 8
3.1 Printer Setup 8
3.2 Printer Calibration 9
3.2.1 Calibrate X-Axis 9
3.2.2 Calibrate Y-Axis 10
3.2.3 Calibrate Nozzle Distance to Build Plate 11
3.3 Loading Filaments 12
3.4 Software Setup 12
4. PRINT 15
4.1 Basic Print with Single Nozzle 15
4.2 Advanced Print With Dual Nozzles 16
4.2.1 One Model In Two Colors Or Materials 16
4.2.2 Digital Batch Production 19
4.3 SD Printing And Manual Duplication Option
24
4.4 On-The-Fly Tuning During Print 25
4.5 Finishing A Print With Auto-Shutdown 27
5. MODEL REMOVAL 28
5.1 Removing Models From Build Plate 28
5.2 Removing Supporting Materials 28
6. MAINTENANCE 30
6.1 Cleaning Filament Feeders 30
6.2 Lubricating X, Y, And Z Axes 31
6.3 Removing And Replacing Nozzles 31
6.4 Automatic Nozzle Cleaning 31
6.5 Manual Cleaning For Clogged Nozzles 31
6.6 Cleaning Build Plate 32
6.7 Manual Leveling of Build Plate 32
6.8 Professional Service and Maintenance 33
7. TIPS, TRICKS, AND TROUBLESHOOTING 34
7.1 General Temperature Guidelines 34
7.2 For Printing With PLA 34
7.3 For Print With Single Nozzle 34
7.4 For Shell/Wall Thickness (Cura) 34
7.5 Tricks For Overhang Support (Cura) 34
7.6 FAQ For Common Print Issues 35
8. SUPPORT AND UPDATE 43
8.1
Firmware Updates 43
9. TERMS OF SERVICE 44
9.1 Limited Warranty 44
9.2 Return Policy 44
9.3 Limited Liability 44
10. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 45
1
SAFE OPERATION
The MAKEiT printer uses the Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) method
of production (also knowns as FDM) which requires heating of the print
material to near its melting point. The extruder module of the MAKEiT
printer can reach temperatures up to 275°C/527°F, and the build plat-
form up to 120°C/248°F. Working with such heated equipment, cautions
are always needed during operation.

1. To avoid personal injury and part deformation, wait until the extruder module and build
platform have cooled considerably before attempting to remove the printed part. Do
not touch the extruder module, build platform, or part at any time during the print or
immediately after the printer has finished printing.
2. In cases where it is necessary to operate the printer while it is hot, such as exchanging
printer nozzles, use heat-resistant safety gloves and proper tools.
3. Any exposure to water or other fluids is likely to cause damage to the printer.
4. The operational ambient temperature range is between 60°F and 90°F [15°C and 32°C],
humidity between 20% and 50%. Attempting prints outside of these ranges will result in
reduced final quality.
5. Place your MAKEiT printer on a hard and sturdy surface, never leave it on fabric surface or
carpet.
6. Operate in a well vented area to ensure adequate airflow to avoid printer overheating, and
ABS fume. However, excessive airflow such as operating the printer under an air vent, can
affect printer performance negatively.

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 2
ABOUT MAKEiT 3D PRINTER

2.1 OVERVIEW

1 X-Bar
8 2 7 2 Y-Axis
3 Z-Axis
4 Extruder Module
1 5 Nozzle 1
6 Nozzle 2
9
7 Feeder 1
4 8 Feeder 2
10 9 Encoder Switch
13 10 LCD Display
11 14
11 SD Card
12 Heated Bed
13 Build Plate
14 Power Switch

3
3

8 7

1
1
4 4

13
5 6 9
13 2

12 12

9
11 14

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2.2 ACCESSORIES

Power Cable USB Cable Filament Guiding Tubes

Build Plate Extra Guiding Tube and

Nozzle
SD Card Contents: MAKEiT Printer Manual, MAKEiT custom .ini files, printable sample files,
presliced GCode print files.

2.3 TOOL KIT

Metal Brush 7mm Socket Driver
2.5mm Hex Driver Lubricant
Putty Knife

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 2.4 PRINTER DATA SHEET

PRINTING
Print technology: FFF, Filament Fused Fabrication (also known as FDM)
Build volume (LxWxH): 20 x 24 x 20 cm [7.87 x 9.45 x 7.87 in]
Print quality / layer height: >50 microns [0.05mm or 0.002in]
Positioning precision: X axis: 10 microns [0.0003937 in, 0.01mm]
Y axis: 10 microns [0.0003937 in, 0.01mm]
Z axis: 0.5 microns [0.000019685in]
Filament diameter: 1.75 mm [0.069in]
Filament spool holder: max spool width 83mm (3.25”)
Number of nozzles: 2
Nozzle size: factory default 0.4 mm [0.015in].
compatible with nozzle sizes ranging 0.25mm –1mm.
*Smaller nozzles are more likely to clog
Build platform: Heated platform of cast aluminum, with embedded magnets
Tested printing materials: ABS, PLA, HIPS, Laywood, PET+, T-Glase/PETT, Nylon, NinjaFlex/TPE,
Rubber, TPU
Display: 4 x 20 character LCD display
Control: encoder with switch

MECHANICAL
Chassis: powder coated 1/8” thick aluminum
Xyz bearings: linear axis ball bearings
Stepper motors: 1.8° step angle
Extruder module: exchangeable magnetic snap-on module
Build plate: removable zinc-plated steel with BuildTak film

DIMENSIONS
Product weight: 8.61 kg [19 lbs]
Product dimensions: 41L x 33W x 45H cm [16.14 x 13 x 17.72in]
Moving platform: 21L x 37W cm [8.27 x 14.57in]
Required front space for
moving platform: at least 27cm [10.63in] from the front of the metal chassis base

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 SOFTWARE
Software: Customized MatterControl from MatterHackers, Cura from
Ultimaker, other open source compatibilities
File types: STL, OBJ, DAE, AMF, GCode
Operating systems: Windows, OSX, Linux
Connectivity: USB, SD card, MatterControl Touch touchscreen add-on

ELECTRICAL
AC input: 100–240v, 50–60 hz
Built-in power supply: Silverstone 450w, 80-Plus Bronze Certified efficiency

OPERATING ENVIRONMENT
Storage temperature: 0°–32° c [32°–90° f ]
Operating temperature: 15°–32° c [60°–90° f ]
Humidity: 20% – 50%

2.5 OPERATIONS FLOW CHART

STARTING A PRINT FROM SD CARD:

Open your .STL or Enter desired print Save .GCODE file Eject SD Card from Insert SD Card into
.OBJ file in print software settings to SD Card computer MAKEiT printer

Press down on Turn encoder dial to Press down on Turn encoder dial to Press down on
encoder dial to bring “SD PRINTING” in encoder dial to select select your desire part encoder dial to start
up SETUP menu SETUP menu “SD PRINTING” from list your print

Done!

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 3
SETUP
3.1 PRINTER FIRST-TIME SETUP

Step 1 Place your MAKEiT printer on a sturdy, smooth surface.

Step 2 Check to see if the nuts on the Z-axis threaded rods are properly
seated into the pockets on the X-bar, see below for more info.

On each vertical or “Z-Axis” threaded rod there is a hidden nut located inside
X-bar. The two nuts inside both left and right side of X-bar function as lifting
agents for X-bar, enabling the X-bar to move up or down as the threaded rods

!
rotate. So we need to make sure both left and right side of X-bar sit correctly
on the nut, ie. the nuts should be completely seated inside each end-cap piece,
and not visible under normal conditions. Otherwise the printer will malfunc-
tion. We can follow Chapter 7 troubleshooting to manually return these nuts
back to the proper location.

Step 3 Snap the print head module into place on the X-bar.

Step 4 Insert the two filament guide tubes which connect the filament feeders on the X-bar
to the print head module. When viewing from the front, Filament 1 is located on the
right of the X-bar while Nozzle 1 is located on the left print head. Because of this it is
important to make sure the feeder cables are crossing over each other, such that the
right-side filament is properly connected to the left nozzle. Make sure each is firmly
seated and inserted fully into place.

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Step 5 Plug the power cable into the power supply located on the back of the printer. Plug the
power cable into a standard 120 V wall outlet. Switch on the main power switch, located
on the power supply on the back of the printer nearby the power cable socket.
Step 6 Turn the printer on by pressing upward on the ON-OFF switch, located on the front
of the printer. The menu backlight, print head lights, and chassis fan should turn on,
followed shortly by motion of the print head. After 2-5 seconds the menu display should
read out the main info screen and display “MAKEiT Pro Ready” at the bottom.
Step 7 Press down on the silver control dial and turn the dial to highlight Auto-home. Press to
select Auto-home. The print head will move downward until contact is made between
the print bed and the green height sensor probe located between the two nozzles on
the print head module.
From here, we need to follow the calibration instructions located in Chapter 3.2

3.2 PRINTER CALIBRATION

Calibration with MAKEiT Pro is a simple process with easy to use, semi-automated features.
We should calibrate our MAKEiT printer after every time it has been moved significantly, after
changing or adjusting nozzles, or whenever leveling issues are otherwise noticed.

Always perform calibration with the print bed clear, there should be no print plate or debris on
the print bed.

3.2.1 CALIBRATE X-AXIS

Step 1 Remove the print plate from heated bed and ensure heated bed is clear.
Step 2 Press down on the control dial located next to the display LCD. This will bring us to the
SETUP menu. Turn the dial to select “Calibration”, and press down on the dial to open the
Calibration menu.
Step 3 Turn to highlight X-Axis Calibration, and press down to select. The printer will now
automatically level the X-Axis by taking measurements along the back end of the hot
bed. The left and right Z-Axis motors will automatically make adjustments to level the
X-Axis.
Step 4 When complete, “Left and Right are leveled” will be displayed on the menu screen. Press
down on the control dial to return to the Calibration menu.

Height Sensor

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 3.2.2 CALIBRATE Y-AXIS

The mounting/adjustment screws along the back edge of the hot bed should not require
adjustment under normal circumstances. After X-Axis leveling has been completed, we will
only to adjust the two screws along the front edge of the hot bed for Y-Axis leveling.

Step 1 Select Y-Axis Leveling from the Calibration menu. The printer will now take measurements
from each corner of the print bed.

Step 2 Once measurements are completed, the printer will display two readings on the LCD
screen, such as “Front left Hi: 0.25”and “Front right lo: 1.00” . These measurements (in
millimeters) indicate how much to adjust the front end socket screws.

One full turn of the adjustment screw moves that particular corner of the hot bed up or down
by 0.5mm.

Example 1: The display shows “Front left Hi: 0.25”: This means front-left corner is 0.25mm
higher than the back-left corner.
Solution 1: We tighten the front-left screw by turning it clockwise for one half revolution.
Example 2: The display shows “Front right Lo: 1.00”: This means front-right corner is 1mm
lower than back-right corner.
Solution 2: We loosen the front-right screw by turning it counter-clockwise for two full
revolutions.

Step 3 After making the proper adjustments, we need to run “Y-axis leveling” from the
Calibration menu again. When the Y-axis is properly leveled, we will see the following
message on the printer screen:
LEFT EDGE LEVELED
RIGHT EDGE LEVELED
CLICK TO PROCEED

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 3.2.3. CALIBRATE NOZZLE DISTANCE TO BUILD PLATE (NOZZLE HEIGHT)
Step 1 Make sure there is no plastic or any other debris on the heated bed and that the build
plate is removed.

Step 2 From the Calibration submenu, choose Nozzle Distance. The nozzles will heat up to
soften any residual material, then go through the auto cleaning motion before position
in the center of the print bed.

Step 3 Place a piece of clean copy paper (regular copy paper is 0.1mm thick) on the build plate
and slide it underneath the nozzles. By sliding the paper back and forth and side to side,
we should get a feel for the level of the nozzles.

We may encounter a few possible scenarios:

Scenario 1: Only the left nozzle touches the paper.

Especially when we swing the paper from side to side, we can feel that swing rotation is
focused on the tip of left nozzle. This tells us the right side nozzle is higher than the left
size nozzle.
Solution: To bring down the right nozzle, we can use the hex driver in the tool kit to loosen
(counter clockwise) the screw located inside top right corner of the extruder module.

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 Scenario 2: Only the right nozzle touches the paper.
When we move the paper from side to side, we only notice the rotation focus point
is concentrated on the tip of right nozzle. This shows left nozzle is higher than right
nozzle.
Solution: To bring down the left nozzle, we can use the hex driver to tighten (clockwise) the
screw inside the extruder module.

Scenario 3: Both nozzles touch down on the paper.

The friction of the nozzles should focus around a central point in between both nozzles.
This is the correct nozzle position, meaning both nozzles are leveled horizontally.

Step 4 Once the two nozzles are leveled, the next thing is to set the nozzle distance manually,
again using the copy paper method. To start, let’s try sliding the paper gently back and
forth to sense the dual nozzle frictions. We may encounter a few different scenarios:

Scenario 1: The copy paper is locked in place and hard to move.

This indicates that the nozzles are too close to the build plate. This may cause our printed
parts stick too well onto the build plate, extreme difficult to be removed. It also may put
undue strain on the feeder motors as the filaments cannot flow properly.
Solution: We can turn the printer’s control dial clockwise slowly to raise the extruder module
up a little until the copy paper can be slipped back and forth, while retaining some level
of resistance.

Scenario 2: There is no friction at all while moving the paper.

The two nozzles are too far from the build plate. The first layer of the print likely will not
stick to the build plate, causing an unsuccessful print.
Solution: We need to turn printer’s control dial counter clockwise to bring the extruder
module down until both nozzles touch down the paper. The sweet spot is somewhere
we can sense the nozzle friction and the copy paper still slide back and forth.

Besides nozzle distance, the filament quality can also affect the first layer quality/stickiness.

We should re-calibrate the machine after any event that may place outside physical forces on
the machine, such as moving or traveling, changing nozzles, changing guide tubes. It is also a
good practice to calibrate after switching different filaments.

Please refer to Chapter 7 “Q&A” for more about a good indicator for correct nozzle distance in
prints.

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 3.3 LOADING FILAMENTS
The procedure to load or change filaments for dual nozzles is the same as the procedure to load
filament into single nozzle. When viewing the machine from the front, Nozzle 1 (marked 1 on
the top left filter cover) is on the left side of the extruder module, the corresponding filament
feed, Feeder 1, is on the right side of the X-bar. Conversely, Nozzle 2 is on the right side of the
extruder module, while the corresponding Feeder 2 is on the left of the X-bar. It is important
that the filaments properly cross over in an X pattern, otherwise the printing may not function
properly.

Step 1 Ready your filament spool by placing the spool on the rollers of the filament holder,
with the end of the filament coming from underneath the spool
Step 2 Press down on the encoder dial and turn to select FILAMENT. The print head will now
reposition itself.
Step 3 Choose either FILAMENT 1 or FILAMENT 2
Step 4 Around the back of the X-bar, insert the end of the filament in the corresponding hole
for the desired filament feeder
Step 5 From the LCD menu, select INSERT FILAMENT. The filament will now pull through the
feeder tube up to the print head module
Step 6 From the FILAMENT menu again, choose MOVE FILAMENT. Turn the encoder dial to
move the filament through, ensuring that filament is feeding smoothly through the
print nozzle.

3.4 SOFTWARE SETUP

The MAKEiT Pro printer works with a variety of slicing and printing softwares. Matter Control
Pro is a recommended software package from MatterHackers, a MAKEiT-customized is available
for at our website at, for Mac and PC: MAKEiT-3d.com/index.php/download
Further documentation is available from MatterHackers at the following URL: MatterControl.
MatterHackers.com
The MAKEiT Pro is also compatible with the open source software Cura, developed by Ultimaker.
However Cura has not been customized to work with your MAKEiT printer, so some manual
installation tasks are necessary.
As of this writing, the MAKEiT Pro is not compatible with the newest 15.06

! version of Cura. Ultimater still provides 15.04 for download from their website,
MAKEiT users should only download the 15.04 version until further notice.

The following setup instructions are for Cura.

Located on the included SD card is a settings file labeled “MAKEiT Pro.ini”. This file allows Cura
to successfully communicate with our printer. To integrate the MAKEiT machine settings we can
follow these steps:
For MAC user:
Open Applications folder, right click (or command-click) on Cura folder
Go to “Show Package Content”
Click on “Resource”
Open “Machine Profile” folder
Find and copy “MAKEiT Pro.ini” file located on our SD card
Paste this file into Machine Profiles folder.
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For PC user:
Find “MAKEiT Pro.ini” file on our SD card
Copy this file
Paste this file into C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.04\resources\machine_profiles (where ###
will be replaced by the version number of your Cura installation, for example Cura_15.04 at
the current time of writing. If you chose a custom installation folder when installing Cura,
your folder directory will be different)

Initializing Cura for the first time brings up a setup dialog with a few pre-configured printer
settings. At the first dialog, choose “other”, in the second dialog that follows we should see
“MAKEiT Pro” available as an option. Alternatively, if we have already started Cura and setup
another printer, we can follow these steps to add our MAKEiT printer.
Add “MAKEiT Pro” machine
Click on “Machine Setting”
Choose “Add New”
Click on “Next”
Select “Other” and go “Next”
Click on “MAKEiT Pro” and go “Next”
Click “Finish” button
Click “Ok” under “Machine Setting” window

Now we are ready for printing!

MAKEiT Pro printer can be used for single and dual nozzles regular printing. In addition, it en-
ables digital patch production (single-color parts in quantities) when “Duplicator” mode is on.
This is accomplished by selecting “MAKEiT Duplicator Profile.ini” file; For non-duplication task,
we can utilize “MAKEiT Pro Profile.ini” file. We can find detailed discussion on duplication print-
ing in Chapter 4, under the section for Advanced Printing

Note: Cura will include a default printer as an option among your Machine Settings. Although
we should not use this default, we should not erase it either, as this will cause errors in our other
configuration file settings. This is a current bug in the Cura software.

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4
PRINT
4.1 BASIC SINGLE-NOZZLE PRINTING
There are two ways to get our prints running once the design file is loaded
into software. We can print directly from computer using “Print with USB”
function, or save the GCode into SD card and print the file without the
computer.

Printing from SD card is the more reliable and adjustable method for printing. Using SD printing
gives us more control over the print by allowing us to adjust a greater number of settings during
a print, settings which are locked by the PC software if printing via USB. On-The-Fly tuning is
not available while printing via USB. Also printing via SD allows us to shut off our computer
during long prints.

Step 1 First we import our .stl, .obj, or other file type into the software and adjust desired
settings accordingly

Step 2 Insert the including USB/SD combination card into the USB port of your computer

Step 3 Once the USB/SD is inserted into your computer, select the option to Save GCode. This
will save a .gcode file onto SD with the original filename from the imported part (“part1.
stl” gets saved as “part1.gcode”)

Step 4 Alternatively, we may wish to specify the name of the .gcode file that gets created, as
long filenames will be shortened by the printer’s display.

Step 5 Now we properly eject the SD using the proper method from Windows or MacOS, and
insert the card into the front slot of the MAKEiT machine

Step 6 Press down on the silver encoder knob located next to the LCD screen to bring up the
“SETUP” menu.

Step 7 Turn the knob to highlight “SD PRINTING”, and press down on the encoder knob to
select

Step 8 We are now presented with a list of files contained on the SD; the most recently saved
file should appear at the top of the list. We use the encoder knob once again to highlight
and select our desired file. After selecting the file, the printer will heat up to the preset
temperatures and our print will start

To print with USB, we must link MAKEiT printer with our computer using the included USB cable.
After loading our design file into the software and setting up all the variables as mentioned
on Step 1, we may print from USB interface, either by clicking on “Print with USB” icon on the
graphic interface, or by clicking on “Print” command from the pull down menu.

With PC printing method, It is important to make sure our computer’s “Sleep” or “Power Saver”
settings are set such that the computer will not power down, sleep, hibernate, etc. during our
print, otherwise the connection will be lost and the print will fail.

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 4.2 ADVANCED PRINT WITH DUAL-NOZZLES

The variability of dual nozzles gives us the option to use the printer a number of different ways
to serve the needs of our print. We can use filaments of the same material in similar or different
colors to duplicate prints for batch production, we can use different color filaments to print one
item in two color patterns, we can print in two different materials for different material proper-
ties in different portions of the part, or we can use one material for support and one for the final
part (such as HIPS support for ABS).

The first thing to do before we print with dual nozzles is to double-check we have both nozzles
properly loaded with the desired filaments. We should take care to select filaments that share
similar extrusion temperatures. Note that different colored filaments even within the same fam-
ily of plastics may require different extrusion temperatures ranging as much as 40°C. It is wise
to test first with a single nozzle to find out the best extrusion temperatures for the particular
filaments before doing dual color prints.

4.2.1. ONE MODEL IN TWO COLORS OR MATERIALS (CURA SOFTWARE)

Step 1; Export the design files: When preparing an object for printing with two colors or dif-
ferent materials, we should design it in our CAD software as a single file with two sepa-
rate bodies. From the single file, we then export the different color/material as separate
.STL files. For example, we have a two-color blue and red object (one CAD file). From our
CAD software we will save/export the red portion as “RedPart.STL”, and blue portion as
“BluePart.STL”. If these two separate .STL files are exported from the same CAD file, Cura
will be able to properly realign them.

Step 2; Designate materials: Properly designate materials for the two different parts: The .STL
file that is loaded first will be printed from Nozzle 1, the file loaded second will be print-
ed from Nozzle 2.

Step 3; Matching material to nozzles: In this case, we have loaded blue filament into Nozzle
1, thus we need to first load the file “BluePart.STL“. With red filament loaded into Nozzle
2, we correspondingly need to load the part “RedPart.STL” second. Make sure the colors/
materials of the filaments on your printer are set accordingly.

Step 4; Load .STL files in Cura: BluePart.STL is loaded first on Cura bed.

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 Then the cylinder RedPart.STL is loaded to Cura bed:

Step 6; Dual Extrusion Merge: Once the “BluePart.STL” and “RedPart. STL” are loaded in Cura
bed, we right click on either item to bring up a dialogue window. When we select “Dual
Extrusion Merge” the two models should merge automatically back to their arrange-
ment from our original design in our CAD software. The object on Cura bed is now
shown in two different colors.

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For optimal print of this test object, we need to make the following setting changes in Cura in
each menu of the Basic, Advanced and Expert settings:

Basic Menu
2nd Nozzle Temp (under “Speed and Temperature”): enter “0”. Printer will assume 2nd nozzle
temp the same as the 1st nozzle.

Support Dual Extrusion ( under “Support”): enter extruder /nozzle number. This is the extrud-
er / nozzle we want to use to print support material. Usually extruder 1 is for primary
building, extruder 2 is for support.

Diameter and Diameter 2 (under “Filament”): If possible, we should use a caliper to measure
the exact diameter of each filament, though sometimes it may be safe to assume an
expected diameter of 1.75mm. Enter “1.75” for “Diameter”, if your second filament is the
same type as the first, you can enter “0” for “Diameter2”. If you have measured a different
diameter for your second filament, you may specify it here.

Advanced Menu
Retraction
Speed (mm/s): 100
Distance (mm): 4.5
Dual Extrusion Switch Amount (mm): 15
Cool: enable cooling fan to prevent dripping of material to the printed parts

Expert Menu (click on “Expert” tab and “switch to full setting”)

Z hop when retracting” under “Retraction”: usually it’s set around “0.3 - 0.5”, we use “0.3”mm
often.
Fan speed: min 50% max 75% for ABS; 100% for PLA

We are now ready to run our first dual-color print!

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 4.2.2. DIGITAL BATCH PRODUCTION (CURA SOFTWARE)

It is usually rare to use a 3D printer for quantity productions of end-use parts due to slow speed
and lack of precision. However the unique features of our MAKEiT printer, such as producing
SLA-like precision quality parts using FFF technology with wider choices of building materials,
enable us access to digital production in batches of meaningful quantity and uncompromised
quality. Here is an example shown below. We at MAKEiT frequently use the MAKEiT printers to
produce multiple parts in once.

In the first picture 32 parts were printed on one build plate by one printer in 8 hours, ie. it took
only 15 minutes per each part. If printed individually with only a single nozzle, it would take
many hours longer, requiring significantly more operator effort. These end parts are enough for
8 MAKEiT printers. In the second picture 24 reel holders were produced by one printer in one
production run.
It is this duplication and simple production process that opens the door to future digital batch
manufacturing.

Enabling these time-effective batch prints is the printer’s key function of “Duplication”. Our
MAKEiT printer is capable of duplicating individual parts to make entire batch prints. The only
limitation is that the copied item’s width is within 48mm (due to the fact that the distance be-
tween two nozzles is 50mm.)

The duplication printing sequence depends on the specific machine setting we input at the
beginning of Cura setup. Safe way to start is to print from front row to back row. The Tool Path
display option in Cura is a very good indicator to check first before we hit the print/save button.
Tool Path shows us in detail where and how our nozzles extrude filaments. Below is a step-by-
step instruction for duplication, using a printer part example.

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 4.2.2.1. PREPARING DUPLICATED ITEMS

We will use a printer part (30mm long 7mm wide) as an example.

Step 1; Preparation In design software: CAD software may vary slightly, but in most software
similar functions are available so this method should be adaptable.

Step 2; Pattern (or Array): We will use “Linear Component & Pattern Direction” features under
“Assembly” window in our design software to make the proper layout. A proper pattern
(sometimes also called an “array”) is set up as follows.

Step 3; Calculating Pattern Spacing: Since our build plate is 200mm wide, the distance be-
tween two nozzles is 50mm, and the width of the part is 7mm, so to figure out how
many possible parts to print in one row, we need to calculate as this:
50mm / (part width + gaps between two parts) = 50mm /(7mm+1mm) = 6pcs approxi-
mately. Since we will have 4 columns (200mm wide / 50mm nozzle distance) in a plate,
The number of parts we can possibly print is 6x4 = 24pcs. So a row of 20 parts across the
width of the build plate is appropriate.

Step 4; Making Space for Nozzle 2: Our assembly components should now appear aligned as
above. To make use of the duplication feature, we need to remove the parts from the ar-
ray that will be printed by the second nozzle. Counting from the left, in our case we keep
the first 5 items, delete the 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, and 10th items; keep the 11th through 15th
item, delete the 16th, 17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th items.

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 Now we have two columns, 5 items in each column. These items are deleted to allow
space for Nozzle 2 duplication, which will be explained more further on.

Step 5; Saving Your Pattern; Save this whole assembly of parts with a new filename, then
export it all as a single .STL file.

Please note, it is important that we export our multiplied parts as a single .STL file, so
that the slicing and printing software Cura will treat it as one object and take action
accordingly. Otherwise we will not see the full benefits of duplication features.

4.2.2.2 PREPARING CURA FOR BATCH PRINTING

Step 1; Cura Machine Settings: From the “File” menu in Cura, we need to select “Open Profile”
then find our “MAKEiT Duplicator Profile.ini” and open it. We should also double-check
that “Machine Settings” in Cura is set as shown below:

21
 Head Size Towards Y Min: 32mm
This is the clearance needed for the head to move freely while printing a second part,
behind a part already completed on the print bed. The distance between two rows on
print bed should be kept at least 32mm apart, or three and half checker boxes away.
Otherwise the printed item will be knocked by the extruder module’s filter cover as it
moves to the next row of printing.

Serial Port: When printing with MAKEiT via USB cable, the serial port listed in Machine Set-
tings should read as COM”X”, where “X” is the unique number assigned by our computer
to the MAKEiT printer

Step 2, Multiplying Parts: Load the .STL file into Cura’s bed.

Right-click on any object to bring up

a popup window. Choose “Multiply
object” and input the number of parts
desired.

22
Step 3; Arranging Multiples: On Cura screen we see two columns visible with multiple rows.
Actually, it is one visible column followed by an invisible column, so there are total four
columns of parts to be printed in this particular file.

Step 4; X-Axis Columns: Why do we erase some of the items earlier in the design software?
This is to allow clearance for Nozzle 2 to do the work of duplication, that is to print those
copies which we removed. Nozzle 2 will move in the same locations where 6th-10th and
16th-20ths items are, and will print them simultaneously with Nozzle 1. Even though
they don’t appear in Cura, these items will be printed when we select the “Duplicate”
feature on our printer.

At this stage we need to make adjustments so that the last invisible column at far right
will have enough space on the build plate and can be printed well.

As a rule of thumb, each checker box represented in Cura’s software is 10mm

by 10mm. Start from the right edge and count 5 checkers (or 50mm) to the left,

! this will be the starting place to print the second invisible column. If any item
appears as dark grey in Cura, it means there is not enough space for that item
to be printed.

Step 5; Y-Axis Rows: Now we need to properly arrange our rows of parts in the Y-axis, front
to back. As we spread the multiplied rows out, we should take care to leave the proper
amount of spacing between them. Remember that if a row becomes dark gray, we need
to drag that row toward front, but still keep the right gap between rows.

If we have removed the filter cap from the extruder module, the gap between

! two rows should be at least 22mm apart. With the filter cap attached to the
extruder module, the rows should be spaced at least 32mm apart.

23
Step 6; Cura Print Settings: Choose all the necessary settings in “Basic”, “Advanced” and
“Expert” menu in Cura.
Select the “Tools” drop-down menu from the Cura window, then select “Print

! one at a time” command. This will set the printer to finish the first front row
(which we actually loaded as one part) before moving to the next row.

4.3 SD PRINTING AND MANUAL DUPLICATION OPTION

After completing the preparation work for our print (4.2.2.1), bring down the “File” menu and
choose “Save GCode”, or use the shortcut on the screen to save GCode to SD card.

Step 1: Insert SD card with print file into the printer.

Step 2: On the printer, bring up the SETUP menu by pressing down on the encoder button, and
select “Duplication”.

Step 3: Select SD printing

Step 4: Locate the desired file utilizing the encoder dial

Step 5: Press down on the encoder to select the particular file

Step 6: Print will start once the printer is warmed up

As an example, let us presume we have already set a file in Cura and saved onto our SD card.
There may be a case where we have to change temperatures for either the nozzle, bed, or both.
Perhaps we are testing a new filament that requires a significantly different temperature than
we previously set in Cura.

In this case, we don’t need to go back to Cura and resave the file. Instead we can use the existing
.gcode file on the SD card, and use the tuning menu to change nozzle/bed temperature
immediately after we have set the file to print.

SD Card Printing mode has to be selected first, then we can utilize tune features.
The new settings will proceed the original settings stored in SD card. If we tune

! first before starting the SD Print, settings stored in SD card will override the
tuned ones. The new temperature setting will be used throughout the printing.
However we should note that, once the print is finished, the old temperature
settings in SD card will remain since the printer doesn’t have a saving function.

24
If we desire a large quantity batch with more than one print we can do so quickly with multiple
print plates. After the first run of 20 parts are printed on the print plate, we can take this full
sheet off the hot bed and put on a new built plate. Simply choose SD Printing again and choose
your GCode file. The duplication process starts once more, another 20 parts can be produced
easily.

4.4 ON-THE-FLY TUNING DURING SD PRINT

After we load our STL file in our software, it is required to input numerous variables, such as
speed, temperature, infill, flow rate, etc, before it can “slice” the STL to produce the GCode for
MAKEiT printer to print the file.

These settings are given based on our earlier printing experience, manufacturer recommen-
dations, or trial and error. Once the print job begins all of these values are fixed and cannot be
changed through the computer software, unless we cancel the print in order to change the
values. This is notably suboptimal.

To have a better printing experience, our MAKEiT printer provides a series of on-the-fly adjust-
ment functions, that are grouped under TUNE menu. This allows us to correct or fine tune the
values we set earlier in the print software.

At any time during a print we can rotate the encoder dial in either direction to access the TUNE
menu. Any changes made here happen in real-time for the current print, giving us the flexibility
to make adjustments in key areas such as fan speed, print speed, nozzle temperature, bed tem-
perature, flow rate, and nozzle height, without the time cost of restarting the print.

It is important to note, starting a new print will override any changes to our tuning settings. If
we wish to adjust settings for a print that is already stored on the SD card, we must start the
print first and change settings after the display reads “MAKEiT Pro Heating”.

Here are some examples of fine tune functions.

Nozzle temp: When we see whisker on the printed object, we can raise the nozzle temperature
5°C higher. Each nozzles’ temperature can be adjusted individually.

Bed temp: If some of the first layer print does not stick well, we can increase bed temp by
5c incrementally after we finish nozzle height adjustment. Usually bed temperature
settings are between 80°C-90°C, occasionally 95°C depending on the building material
and how much contacting area our model has on the bed. If the object has small contact
area, we tend to raise bed temp a little higher; if object has large contact area, we can
bring the temp down a little for easier removal once the print is finished.

Fan speed: When we build single object in small size, for example, a M4 screw, we can increase
fan speed. For PLA printing we always run the fan speed to max. For dual PLA printing
it is recommended to have fan on full speed. It is also possible for us to remove the fan
cover and carbon filter on the front of the extruder module to enable extra cooling.

25
Printing speed: Depending on our need, we can speed up the printing time if resolution is
not the highest priority, or we can slow down the printing speed to have a finer, higher-
quality part. We may explore to find the right speed for certain print, or certain materials.
It is also possible to adjust speed for different portions of a single part, if we have variable
levels of detail in the same part.

Flow rate: Flow rate controls how much filament is extruded and is extremely import for a
successful print. When too much filament is extruded within certain time, we will notice
things like bulging area, bubbles, droplets, or extra grooves, causing our print surface
uneven. If too little filament is extruded, the outer walls can be too thin, the infill may
not properly connect with the walls, gaps may be found between each layer, or yet
other defects. Being able to adjust the flow rate on-the-fly, we can correct or re-enforce
our print.

Nozzle Distance: In addition to the nozzle calibration at the setup time, we have the
opportunity to fine tune the nozzle height at any time when it is necessary by selecting
“Nozzle distance” at “TUNE” menu. This feature enables us to double-check for proper
nozzle distance at the beginning of a print to ensure we have a good solid first layer
foundation.

We can also utilize the “brim” or “skirt” feature in Cura to check out the right nozzle distance.
Since brim or skirt is printed first before the real object, we can use them to see how the first
layers are extruded, then easily adjust the nozzle distance accordingly before the actual part
starts printing.

26
 4.5 FINISHING A PRINT WITH AUTO-SHUTDOWN

Once a printing job is done, the extruder module will move back to the home position. We
may keep the printer on for another print job or switch it off manually. For convenience,
especially with overnight printing, our MAKEiT printer has an auto-shutdown feature to power
off automatically after the job is done.

To set up the auto-shutdown option, we need to add a line of code to the end.gcode file in Cura:
Under “Start/End GCode” menu:
For single nozzle printing, click on the “end.gcode” file
Add “M81” as the last line by typing in the bottom field;
For dual nozzles printing, repeat the above step for file labeled “end2.gcode”

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 5
MODEL REMOVAL AND
FINISHING
5.1 REMOVING MODELS FROM BUILD PLATE

It is always recommended to remove the build plate from the print bed
before removing your print from the build plate. Attempting to remove the
part from the build plate while it is still on the print bed can affect leveling
of the bed or cause damage to the printer.

When we have a plateful of items, objects that are densely built or large in size, it is recommended
to remove the build plate from the printer while it is still warm, being sure to use safety gloves
when necessary. We can then utilize the putty knife provided in the tool kit to gently lift up the
prints, little by little.

If the plate is allowed to cool before removal, sometimes it can be additionally difficult to remove
our prints from the cold build plate, as the prints can be stuck onto the plate quite firmly. In
this case, strong use of the putty knife may damage our print or the build plate. It is better to
heat up the plate on the hot bed to the same temperature used to print these objects before
removal. It will then be easier to remove our printed objects off the plate without unnecessary
wear.

It is NOT recommended to pop or pull up printed parts by hand. This can lift
up the print surface material off the build plate, causing air bubbles to form
underneath. This causes premature wear and can create uneven surfaces on

! the build plate.

Additionally, it is NOT recommended to attempt to remove parts from the build

plate while it is still on the printer. Always remove build plate from hot bed
before removing parts.

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 5.2 REMOVING SUPPORT MATERIAL
Depending on the object’s shape and geometric structure, supporting materials may be printed
and bonded to the object itself. Here is a picture of MAKEiT printer parts on the build plate.
These four parts are built with supporting materials, indicated in the above image by orange
labels. These supporting attachments are thinly built and can be easily broken away by hand,
or removed with a handy tool. When support structure is printed with the same material as our
actual part, no liquid solutions of any kind are necessary to clean up these parts.

After the supporting materials are peeled off cavities are revealed, as shown below. Now these
parts are ready to be installed on the next MAKEiT printer.

29
 6
MAINTENANCE
No matter the brand, all 3D printers have moving parts and thus require
a certain level of maintenance. The MAKEiT printer was designed to make
maintenance activities as easy and convenient as possible, to ensure we
get the most out of our investment. Regular care of our MAKEiT print-
er will not only improve the quality of prints, but also extend the life of
wearable components in the printer.

6.1 CLEANING THE FILAMENT FEEDERS

There are two feeders inside X Bar. We can access these filament feeders for cleaning through
the tunnels located on both left and right end of the X-bar using a metal brush.

Step 1 Press down the control dial to bring up the SETUP menu.
Step 2 Select “Filament”, then select“Filament 1”
Step 3 Choose “Move filament”
Step 4 Turn the control dial in either direction to move filament 5mm.
Step 5 Once the filament has stopped moving, insert the cleaning brush (provided in the tool-
kit) into the cleaning tunnel. Move the brush back and forth a few times to clean the
feeder.
Step 6 Remove brush from the cleaning tunnel. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE FILAMENT
FEEDER WHILE BRUSH IS INSERTED!
Step 7 Repeat steps #4, #5 and #6 a total of 8 times to complete cleaning the feeder.

30
 6.2 LUBRICATING XYZ AXES

It is recommended to lubricate all rods on X, Y and Z-axes every two to three months. A lubricant
is provided in the tool kit. Apply thin layer of it on all rods, including the two Y direction rods
under the hot bed, and the threaded rods for Z-axis.
6.3 REMOVING AND REPLACING NOZZLES
Step 1 Select “Maintenance” from the printer’s LCD display menu.
Step 2 Select “Nozzle Exchange”
Step 3 Printer will automatically heat up the nozzle and raise the extruder module to the proper
height for easy access. Wait until LCD screen’s prompt when it’s ready to proceed.
Step 4 Be sure to wear safety gloves and use hex nut driver included with the toolkit to take out
the hot nozzle.
Step 5 Using the same hex driver and still wearing safety gloves we can now screw in the new
nozzle.
Step 6 After replacing old nozzle with new one, press down the control dial, and the extruder
will go back to the home position.
Step 7 Complete the nozzle exchange by recalibrating the nozzle height, from the calibration
menu.
6.4 AUTOMATIC NOZZLE CLEANING
The MAKEiT printer has the ability to clean away any residual filaments on the nozzle, utilizing
the built-in metal brush. We can do this by programming G-code in Cura:
Step 1 In the Cura window, select the tab “START/END GCode”
Step 2 Select the “start.gcode” file
Step 3 Where you see “G28” in the code, change it to “G28 SC”.
Step 4 Save the GCode.

6.5 MANUAL CLEANING FOR CLOGGED NOZZLES

First, we follow the steps from 6.3.1 again in order to remove the nozzle for cleaning. After
removal, we can either soak the clogged nozzle in acetone/solvent liquid (it may take quite
some time to dissolve completely), or burn out the old debris on hot flames.

NOTICE: Take care when using blow torch, stove, or other high source; safety gloves and a long
handle plier are needed to prevent any injury.

Once nozzle is cleaned with either heat or chemical, we can finally use a 0.4mm drill bit to
ensure the hole is clear. Please note, 0.4mm is the default nozzle size for the printer. If you have
changed your nozzle to a different diameter it is important to use an equal size drill bit.

Lastly, we reinstall the cleaned nozzle and once again run the nozzle leveling procedure.

Other nozzle cleaning methods can be found on Internet, user discretion is advised.

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 6.6 CLEANING BUILD PLATE
To clean the build plate, it is recommended to use a 70% rubbing alcohol, or dish

! soap, and nothing stronger. This is very important, as solvents like acetone can
damage the print surface on the print plate.

With the build plate removed from the printer it is safe to wash the build plate. Begin by using
typical household dish soap and a sponge. Dish soap is particularly effective at cleaning residue
left by any water-based glue we might use for bed adhesion. After washing with soap we can
wipe down the bed with a soft cloth and rubbing alcohol to clear it of any remaining residue.

Make sure both sides of the build plate are clean and clear of residue or debris before returning
it to the hot bed. Any plastic or other debris on the back of the build plate will cause issues with
leveling, bed adhesion, or damage to the print surface. Take care not to bend the build plate
during cleaning.
6.7 MANUAL LEVELING OF PRINT BED
Step 1 With the printer powered off and the build plate removed from the hot bed, use the hex
screw driver provided in the toolkit to tighten the four socket screws in each corner of
the hot bed. Tighten each screw all the way until it stops, then loosen each screw by four
complete revolutions. With a visual check, the back end of the hot bed should appear
parallel to the chassis body. Leave the build plate aside for the time being, we will place
it on the hot bed later on.
Step 2 Slide the extruder module to the far right end of the X-bar. Take note of the four
semicircular cavities in the hot bed. These are for nozzle clearance while levelling. Using
a digital caliper, we need to measure the distance from the back-left nozzle clearance
cavity to printer base; and the distance from back-right nozzle clearance cavity to printer
base. See photo for reference.

The desired measurement between the bottom of the nozzle cavity and printer base should be
37.5mm to 38mm. If not, we need to either tighten or loosen the corresponding socket screw
on the hot bed. One full turn of the screw moves that corner of the hot bed up or down by
0.5mm.

32
The desired measurement between the bottom of the nozzle cavity and printer base should be
37.5mm to 38mm. If not, we need to either tighten or loosen the corresponding socket screw
on the hot bed. One full turn of the screw moves that corner of the hot bed up or down by
0.5mm.

Example 1: If the caliper measurement shows 36mm, we need to move the bed up 1.5mm.
We can do this by loosening the screw, turning it counter-clockwise three complete
revolutions.
Example 2: If the caliper measurement shows 40mm, the bed is 2mm higher than required
distance (ie, 38mm). We can lower the bed by tightening the screw, turning it clockwise
four complete revolutions.

Importantly, the metal brush and aluminum plate have to be levelled when we
adjust the hot bed. If the hot bed is placed lower than the metal brush, it can
block the extruder module from lowering down in Z direction, preventing the

!
green sensor on underside of extruder module from sensing the hot bed. This
can lead to constant rotation of threaded rod in an effort to lower the X-bar,
causing the lifting nuts inside the X-bar (mentioned in 3.1) to rotate out of the
original location. Thus, the X-bar may later drop abruptly on to models or the
hot bed.

6.8 PROFESSIONAL SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE

Professional service and maintenance can be arranged to save user’s time. MAKEiT Inc. is proud
to offer local users in Southern California extra services such as customized 3D design and
machine solution, on-site maintenance and networking.

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7
TIPS, TRICKS, AND
TROUBLESHOOTING
7.1 GENERAL TEMPERATURE GUIDELINES

Temperature settings vary for different materials, and manufacturers,

and colors. It is highly recommended that we practice with the existing
material and use TUNE feature to find the right temperature.

MATERIAL NOZZLE TEMPERATURE BED TEMPERATURE

ABS 210-250°C 80-110°C
PLA 170-225°C 40-50°C
Nylon 618 220-235°C 50-65°C
T-Glase/PETT 220-235°C 70-80°C
HIPS 235-265°C 85-110°C
Rubber 190-230°C 40-50°C
PET+ 250-270°C 70-90°C
Conductive PLA 215-230°C 40-50°C
Temperatures can be set for each individual nozzle independently to allow for printing of
different materials together in one part, or use of different support material for prints.
7.2 FOR PRINTING WITH PLA

1. While printing via USB, pre-set fan speed to maximum in slicing/printing software
2. While printing via SD, set fan speed to maximum via the TUNE menu, select Fan Speed and
set value to 255
3. PLA material may require slower print speeds to achieve high quality prints.
7.3 FOR PRINTING WITH SINGLE NOZZLE

1. Raise Nozzle 2 slightly higher than Nozzle 1 to remove any possibility of interference. This can
be done using the hex driver in the adjustment hole on the print head module
2. Alternatively, Nozzle 2 may be entirely removed
3. In our slicing/print software, specify that “support extrusion” or “support material” is from
Nozzle 1

7.4 FOR SHELL/WALL THICKNESS

The shell/wall thickness should be set at multiples of nozzle diameter. For an example, our
printer’s default nozzle size is 0.4mm, wall thickness should be set at 0.4mm for 1 shell; 0.8mm
for 2 shells; 1.2mm for 3 shells, etc.

If it wall thickness is not set at multiples of nozzle size, for an example, if we set at 0.9mm, slicing
software will only use 0.8mm, our print will be made with 0.8mm wall thickness, NOT 0.9mm.

34
 7.5 TRICKS FOR OVERHANG SUPPORT (CURA)

1. At Cura “Basic” window under “Support” section, select “everywhere”

2. Pull down “Expert” menu, input “0” at “support overhang (degree)”: the smaller angle, the
more support under overhang part.
3. Set “Distance X/Y mm” at 0.7mm. This covers all area of overhang.
4. Set “Distance z mm” at 0.15mm
5. Set “Fill amount” at 15%
Tip: use “Visual” button on the top right of Cura screen to see how the support material is print-
ed before hit “Print” button.
7.6 Q & A FOR COMMON PRINT ISSUES

What happens when my computer goes to sleep in the middle of a print?

This only matters is we are printing via USB. Especially when we have a large model and
long time to complete, if computer goes to sleep mode,this will ruin our print. To avoid
this problem, we need to disable “sleep” in control panel before we start printing. We
frequently choose to use SD card printing to avoid this, and to increase reliability by
cutting out the possibility of other USB communication interruptions such as software
or driver errors.

How come my printer can not link with Cura?

Sometimes the communication link is missing. We need to re-set the link by following
the steps here:
1. Re-connect the USB cable
2. Select “Machine setting” in Cura
3. At “Communication setting” select the serial port number given by our computer:
such as “COM14”. Baudrate “250000”. Sometimes “AUTO” setting does not find the
correct port and baudrate for the printer.

What is the filament diameter for MAKEiT Printer?

MAKEiT printer works with 1.75mm, with tolerance of +- 0.05mm.

How far does guiding tube be inserted into the extruder module?
When we insert the guiding tube into press fit on top of the extruder module, the
insertion needs to go deep until it reach to the very end, about 45mm (1.75”) long. If
this length is NOT reached, the guiding tube is not properly installed, which will cause
filament extrusion problem, such as no filament coming out; false impression of nozzle
clogging, etc.

How can I prevent cracking/delamination between layers?

1. Increase nozzle temp by 5c increments
2. If it’s a large part, increase speed, increase layer height
3. Increase wall thickness, increase infill amount, and/or flow rate
4. For ABS, print with extruder fan at minimum. If still cracking with ABS, try placing the
printer inside an enclosure.
5. Large parts built by ABS tend to crack or warp. In our practice we have built large parts
with PC-ABS (polycarbonate blend) and HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene,used for low-
strength structural components, housings or covers due to its excellent dimensional
stability, easy to paint and glue. )

35
Why is my print’s corner lifting up from hot bed?
1. Not enough heat on hot bed: increase bed temp using tuning menu while printing is
going on, or set a higher bed temp for the next print.
2. Reduce the printing speed. Usually we have selected printing speed at 70mm/s.
3. For models with a small amount of surface area touching the print bed, we can try
using “Brim” or “Raft” to hold down the model
4. Under “Initial Line Width” in the Advanced Cura menu, set 110% to 120% so that extra
filament will be extruded out to strengthen the stickiness on build plate.

How do I insert PTFE filament guiding tubes into the quick connectors?
1. Insert one end of the tube into the connector labeled 1 on the top surface of the X-Bar
2. Insert the other end of that tube into the connector labeled 1 on top of the extruder
module
3. Insert the second tube into the connector labeled 2 on the top of the X-Bar
4. Cross the second tube over the first and wrap it around the first tube twice, as shown
below:

5. Insert the other end of the second tube into the connector on the extruder module
labeled 2
6. Make sure both guiding tubes are fully inserted in the extruder module so that their
ends rest flush against the top of print nozzle. A good reference for insertion length
is approximately 45mm/1.75”

How do I remove a guiding tube from a quick connector?

While pressing and holding down the tab of the
quick connector on top of the extruder module pull
the guiding tube upward. Do not release the tab until
the guiding tube is completely out of the connector.
Otherwise, the tube will be damaged by the biting
teeth inside the connector, while we forcefully pull
it out. The picture at right shows damage that is
indicative of improperly removed guiding tubes,
where the locking teeth of the connector have dug
into the PTFE tubing.

36
During printing I hear a rhythmic knock/thump from my printer. What is it and what do I
do?
Problem: The nozzles are positioned too close to the build plate, blocking filament flow.
Solution: select Nozzle Distance from the on-the-fly tuning menu, turn the dial to
increase nozzle height by a small amount until filament flow is visible and smooth.
Run nozzle height calibration again before the next print.

Problem: The nozzle is not hot enough to extruder a proper amount of filament
Solution: Go to the tuning menu and select Nozzle Temp, turn the dial to increase
extrusion temperature until a proper amount of filament can flow through easily.

Problem: Nozzle is clogged.

Solution: From the main setup menu select Nozzle Exchange from the Maintenance
menu. Printer will automaticaly heat nozzle to 225C. Always use the hex socket driver
provided in the tool kit and proper safety equipment to remove the clogged nozzle
and install the new/cleaned nozzle. Never attempt nozzle removal with bare hands.
The nozzle may be cleaned in acetone or other solvent, or cleaned with flame torch.

Problem: Guiding tube is not positioned correctly inside the extruder module
Solution: If there is a little gap between the end of guiding tube and the top of nozzle,
as indicated by the red arrow in the picture below, incoming filament will fill this gap
and cause a blockage inside the extruder module.

To solve this problem we can follow these steps:

1. Remove the nozzle; from the SETUP menu select Maintenance, then Nozzle Exchange.
Use the included hex socket driver and follow all safety precautions.
2. Push the guiding tube down further, all the way through the extruder module to
remove any melted filament residuals.
3. Pull the guiding tube all the way out of the extruder module.
4. Put nozzle back, again using the hex socket driver and safety precautions.
5. From the SETUP menu choose Filament, choose the corresponding filament for the
nozzle that was clogged, then choose Move Filament. With the end of the guiding
tube free of the extruder module, turn the dial to move extra filament through to
ensure it is flowing freely through the tube.
6. Clip off the extra filament that was extruded.
7. Reinsert the guiding tube back into the extruder module. Make sure it is positioned so
that it sits flush against top of the print nozzle.
8. From the Filament menu again, move enough material forward to ensure smooth
flow through the nozzle.
9. Recalibrate nozzle distance.

37
What do I do if the filament stops latching onto the feeder gear after a period of thumping/
knocking?
The knocking sound is the extruder motors skipping steps due to excess pressure in
the system. This sound is not bad and will not damage the printer, the motors’ voltage
is calibrated to intentionally allow this skipping at a certain pressure. It does however
indicate there is a problem in the feed system that needs to be corrected. This could
result from the nozzle being too close to the print bed on the first layer, a high level of
over-extrusion of material, retraction settings that are too aggressive, a blockage in the
filament gears, or a clog in the nozzles or guide tubes.

It is best to remove the filament and check the surface of the removed portion for
deformities or wearing away. Whether or not filament is ground down, worn away, or
broken, will help diagnose the inital cause of the feed issue. It is best to discard the
affected portion of filament. From there you will need to check which of the above
situations applies to you, then find the corresponding instructions elsewhere in this
manual.

What should I do if my print doesn’t stay on the build plate?

1. The nozzles might be too far from the build plate. Either use the on-the-fly tuning
menu to adjust nozzle distance during the first layer of your print, or recalibrate nozzle
distance from the calibration menu.
2. Try using settings for either “brim” or “raft” in your slicing software. Brim creates an
extended flange of material around the outside of your part to allow more surface
area for bed adhesion on small parts. Raft can also create more surface area, but prints
a few layers underneath your part which may help for large parts that tend to warp.
3. Vary the location where you set your prints on the print plate. This will extend the life
of your print plate, as repeated use of the same part of the print plate can wear that
portion of the surface faster.
4. Apply a thin layer of washable, glue from a glue stick (such as Elmer’s or Uhu) to the
print area. This can be easily cleaned off in the sink with water and normal dish soap.

How can I make Nylon or other difficult materials stick to the build plate?
1. Immediately before starting the print, apply a layer of washable glue to the print plate
where your print will be located.
2. Use a large brim of extra material to increase the contact patch.
3. Use a raft of a different material type, such as ABS, HIPS, or PVA underneath your
Nylon part. You will need to load this different material into your second nozzle, and
make sure “support material” is set to print from the nozzle 2 in your slicing software.

38
What should I do if the X-Bar drops down abruptly?
This is due to improper operation causing a problem with the Z-Axis nuts and threaded
rods. See image below for reference, or refer to chapter 3.1:

As shown to the right, there

is a nut on each threaded rod
that must seat inside the X-Bar
ends. These nuts act as the
lifting agents for the X-Bar, and
in a normal situation they are
completely out of sight.

However, if something such

as print debris, the cleaning
brush, an improperly placed
print plate interferes with
the Z-height sensor (the
green probe at the bottom of
extruder, shown at right)it will
receive incorrect information.

The printer will make multiple

rotations of the threaded rods,
attempting to lower the X bar),
the X bar won’t be properly
levelled, then the hex nut (or
both) might come out of the
original place, like the pictures
shown below:

Proper alignment of nut inside X-Bar Improper alignment of nut, not seated
end; nut is not visible: within X-Bar end; nut is visible.

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 Under the abnormal situation above, the X-Bar loses proper support from the nuts.
Abrupt dropping of the X-Bar is indication that the hex nut is totally out of place. To
solve this problem we can follow these steps:

1. Switch the printer’s power off

2. Make sure the hot bed and the nozzle clearance cavities are clean of any debris. (These
cavities are specifically designed for nozzle clearance while leveling. Any foreign
objects on the bed and it’s cavities can prevent accurate calibration)
3. Lift the X-Bar up with one hand, and rotate the hex nut upward along the threaded
rod with the other hand. Position the nut such that it is level with the opposite side
hex nut, as near as possible from a visual check.
4. Let the X-Bar down gently and ensure the nuts properly seat inside their corresponding
cavities. It may be necessary to rotate the nut slightly such that it aligns properly
with the hole in the X-Bar end. Refer to the photo on previous page for how properly
inserted nuts should appear.
5. To test the fitting, manually tap down on either end of the X-Bar. If a springy, up and
down motion is noticed at either end, then we need to adjust the nut positions more
until the X-Bar sits firmly on both sides.
6. Run the full calibration procedure for X-Axis, Y-Axis, and nozzle distance.

Why isn’t filament extruding?

There are a few likely situations:
1. The filament did not travel completely into the head when loaded. Use the manual
MOVE FILAMENT control to advance it.
2. If the nozzle height is not calibrated properly, the first layer may be too close to the
print bed, preventing the nozzle from extruding.
3. The nozzle itself might be clogged and may need cleaning
4. Your filament might have a flat spot where it should be contacting the extruder motor.
Try advancing the filament with the manual MOVE FILAMENT control while proving
slight extra pressure, by hand, onto the filament itself before it enters the extruder.
What does a good first layer of print look like?
A proper first layer should be smooth and uniform, with each pass of the nozzle lining
up evenly and merging into the adjacent bead of plastic. This requires the nozzle to very
slightly push the material into the print bed, but not so much that it oozes sideways.
If your first layer has bare/empty spots, it might be because your bed is not level or
there is an uneven application of glue on the print bed. A nozzle that is too close to the
print surface will cause bubbled and inconsistent layer with ridges, which may affect
subsequent higher layers.

When do I adjust nozzle height?

You can use the nozzle height adjustment from the tuning menu on the printer to
account for levelling issues dynamically at the start of each print. However, if you
find you are regularly using this feature to make the same adjust, it might be time to
recalibrate nozzle distance from the calibration menu. Recalibrate nozzle height if:
1. The first layer does not print close enough to the bed, and doesn’t stick.
2. The first layer printed is too thin or not at all, due to the nozzle being to close to the
bed. This will likely be accompanied by the extruder clicking as it attempts to push
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I’m having trouble with very small parts, what can I do?
For problems relating to quality of prints with small parts, try the following:
1. Lower your print speeds (Yes, even further. Sometimes the finest parts require speeds
as low as 10mm/s)
2. Test the temperature capabilities of your filament by lowering nozzle temperatures
until the material will not feed. Try printing with the lowest temperature that will
extrude consistently at your chosen print speed
3. Turn the fan speed on maximum, or use an additional external fan.
4. Try printing multiples at once. Very small parts might benefit from additional cooling
time between layers, which can be added without slowing down print speeds by
printing a second copy.

If you are having difficulty with bed adhesion, try the following:
1. Print with an extra long skirt to ensure proper material flow before your part begins
to print.
2. Increase the height of the first layer. Even when printing at fine resolutions down to
0.02, it is best to use a 0.1mm first layer at minimum.
3. Increase the nozzle temperature for the first layer by 10 degrees, then lower it 10
degrees after first layer completes.
3. Try using a brim to increase the contact patch with the print bed.
4. Use a water-based glue, such as Elmer’s glue stick

I’m having trouble with very large parts, what can I do?
Some materials are more suited to large prints than others. PET, PETG, HIPS, and PLA are
good materials for printing large scale parts. It is possible to print ABS in larger sizes but
it may require a warm, temperature controlled room or some type of enclosure for the
printer. It is OK to enclose the printer and maintain ambient temperatures up to 60C.
A cabinet, cardboard box, or other custom construction that allows full motion of the
print bed may be sufficient, until MAKEiT can release an official enclosure upgrade.

For problems with bed adhesion on large parts, try:

1. Increase print nozzle temperature 10 degrees, then lower it 10 degrees after the first
layer completes.
2. Increase the bed temperature 5-10 degrees for the first layer, then lower it 5-10
degrees once the first layer has completed.
2. For taller parts, try lowering the bed temperature another 5 degrees once the print
height has reached 2 cm or higher.

There is a new version of Cura, can I download it?

Unfortunately, Ultimaker discontinued open support for other brands printers. The
most current version of Cura that is tested compatible for the MAKEiT Pro is Cura version
15.04.2 . Any newer versions of Cura either will require some custom gcode programming
or will simply not work.

If you are looking for improved control over your slicing from software, try MatterControl
or consider purchasing a license of Simplify3D for the highest quality print capabilities.

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How do I adjust X and Y offsets for nozzle 2 if two-material prints don’t line up accurately?
It is best not to adjust these in software, as these settings can be adjusted on the printer
itself using the on-board Setup menu.
1. From the printer’s Setup menu, select Maintenance, then select Motion.
2. From here X and Y offset can be set individually
3. Turn the silver dial clockwise to add, or counter-clockwise to remove offset steps.
4. After adjusting settings, return to the MAINTENANCE menu and select Save Settings
near the bottom. If settings are not saved, they will revert to previous state upon printer
restart.
How do I tighten/fasten the belts on the MAKEiT printer?
The belts for both X and Y axis motion can be loosened and tightened using the hex
driver included with the accessory kit. However, the belt tensioners for the X axis are
reverse threaded, and should be turned clockwise to loosen, counter-clockwise to
tighten.
Once the tensioner is loose, tighten the belts with pressure from one hand, the retighten
the tensioner screw.

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8
SUPPORT AND UPDATE
On line support:
Trouble shooting and printing tips will soon be available online via a se-
ries of short video clips at www.makeit-3d.com. MAKEiT user group is an-
other helpful place to find support.

By phone: 626 470 7938

Email: support@makeit-3d.com
8.1 FIRMWARE UPDATE

MAKEiT, Inc. will keep users notified and updated once new firmware release is available.
To update we can follow these steps listed below:
1. Download firmware to known location into your PC.
2. Turn power off from the printer.
3. Start Cura and goto “Machine” menu and select “Install custom firmware...”.
(Ignore warnings)
4. Keep printer power switch in off position (down) manually approximately 10 seconds and
after that switch printer on.
5. Select downloaded firmware (MAKEiTPro.hex).
6. Cura starts to send code automatically to the printer and indicates when it’s ready.

After firmware update, it is good to save new settings in the printer’s menu:
Select “Maintenance”
If we don’t see “maintenance” command under “Setup” menu, we can add Gcode “M809” on the
Cura’s “connect/print” window.

FIRMWARE UPDATE PHOTO GOES HERE

Select “Factory settings”

Select “Save settings”
Calibrate printer before any new prints.

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 9
TERMS OF SERVICE

9.1 LIMITED WARRANTY

One year product and labor warranty is given to any original purchaser from
original purchase date, under normal use and service, against defective
workmanship and materials. All original parts installed and replaced by
MAKEiT Inc. or its’ service provider will be warranted. Any after market modification will not be
warranted. Original invoice must be presented at the time of warranty service.

MAKEiT, Inc. is not responsible for loss of work caused by product that requires service. This
warranty will be void if the product has been damaged by accident, or unreasonable use,
neglect, abuse, immersion in water, improper installation, improper service, or other causes
not arising from defective workmanship and materials. The warranty and remedies set forth
are exclusive and in lieu of all others, oral or written, expressed or implied. No reseller, agent or
employee is authorized to make any modifications or extensions to this warranty without the
prior written consent of MAKEiT, Inc.

Extended warranty can be discussed to meet specific needs.

9.2 RETURN POLICY

Any unopened package can be returned within 30 days of purchase with a valid proof of pur-
chase. A refund minus 10% re-stocking fee will be returned to customer’s account. Please con-
tact MAKEiT, Inc. first to get a RMA number before sending the return.

9.3 LIMITED LIABILITY

MAKEiT, Inc. makes no other warranty, either express or implied, including, but not limited to,
implied warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, or conformity to any
representation or description, with respect to its printers other than as set forth herein. MAKEiT,
Inc. makes no warranty or representation, either express or implied, with respect to any other
manufacturer’s product or documentation, its quality, performance, merchantability, fitness for
a particular purpose, or conformity to any representation or description.

MAKEiT, Inc. has limited liability that shall not exceed the purchase price less shipping and tax-
es. MAKEiT, Inc. shall not be liable for any direct or indirect loss, cost, expense, inconvenience or
damage that may be associated with its product usage.

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10
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
MAKEiT Team is most grateful to everyone at the workshop, the graduate
student studio, of Art Center College of Design, especially Mr. David
Cawley (Director of Rapid Prototyping and Model Shops), Mr. Bruce
Dominguez,(manager, Rapid Prototyping) Mr. Tim Huntzinger (Designer
and Professor of Graduate Transportation Design), Geoff Wardle (Dept.
Chair, Transportation) and students at Art Center, College of Design
Pasadena for countless hours of using our printers, providing us valuable
feedbacks.

We also want to extend our appreciation to Mr. Powert from Carver

Elementary School; Miss Renee Yang and Mr. Craig Christesen from
Arcadia Creative World.

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