MARTIN STOREY • LOUISA HARDING • SARAH HAZELL

27
WINTER
KNITS

SCANDI
STYLE
nordic designs for that hygge feeling
IFC_KNIT_176.indd 1 11/16/17 11:53 AM
 Knitting is published 13 times
a year by GMC Publications Ltd,
86 High Street, Lewes,
East Sussex BN7 1XN
T: 01273 402838
ISSN 1740 6943
EDITOR Christine Boggis
T: 01273 402824
christine.boggis@thegmcgroup.com
CONTRIBUTORS
Jeanette Sloan, Jen Neal,
Jane Roe
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS
Lauren Goodchild

Editor’s letter
lauren.goodchild@
thegmcgroup.com
Abby Costen
abby.costen@thegmcgroup.com
PATTERN EDITORS Rachel Vowles,
Carol Ibbetson Please don’t think less of me, but I’ve given
patternqueries@thegmcgroup.com
DESIGNER Claire Stevens
up making new year’s resolutions. A few
PHOTOGRAPHERS years ago I realised that despite making
Laurel Guilfoyle, Anthony Bailey, extensive lists, I wasn’t keeping them. So I
Louise Clarkson
MODELS decided to lower my expectations and just
Anna Hudson, Jake Brewer make a couple of really simple resolutions.
HAIR AND MAKE-UP
Jeni Dodson When I couldn’t keep even those, I started
PRODUCTION MANAGER wondering if there was some kind of weird
Jim Bulley
jimb@thegmcgroup.com reverse psychology going on that made me
PRODUCTION CONTROLLER subconsciously rebel against my resolutions, so I resolved: no more
Amanda Hoag
amanda.hoag@
resolutions. Instead I make resolutions on a regular basis year-round
thegmcgroup.com – and I don’t keep them either.
MARKETING Anne Guillot
When I do make resolutions, they’re often about trying to make
PUBLISHER Jonathan Grogan
DISTRIBUTION my home nicer – cleaner, tidier, better-organised – and what
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PRINTER Precision Colour Printers colourwork of Scandinavian knitting, which is our main theme
ADVERTISING Russell Higgins this issue. I’m really excited about Bronagh Miskellly’s beautiful
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russellh@thegmcgroup.com
Isblomma shawl in gorgeous Ullcentrum yarn from Öland in
Guy Stockton Sweden (page 52) and Pat Strong’s yoked sweater Starry Night in
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guy.stockton@thegmcgroup.com
Debbie Bliss Fine Donegal (page 61). We’ve also got a bumper crop
SUBSCRIPTIONS Helen Johnston of home knits in colourwork and cables (from page 69), and if your
T: 01273 402873 new year’s resolution was to use up some of your yarn stash, have a
helenj@thegmcgroup.com
Subscribe online at: look at my One Ball Challenge cabled mittens, Idunn (page 87).
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a technique cropping up that I’d love to learn, or a new tip I pick up
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Rest of World £161.01 practise those skills. I thought you might feel the same, so I’ve asked
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knitting and yarn experts from across the globe for their top tips to
Every 6 issues £25.16 make you better knitters – read all about them on page 18.
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Current subscribers will If you’re reading this before Christmas, have a wonderful, woolly
automatically receive a festive season; if you’re reading it after, I wish you a happy New
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See page 15 for more details remember not to be too hard on yourself – and always make time
Galleries photographed on for your knitting.
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East Sussex, available to let from Christine
mulberrycottages.com

Next month: Geek chic – 27 knits inspired

Views and comments expressed by
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by our favourite obsessions, from sci fi and

those of the publishers and no legal
responsibility can be accepted for the
result of the use by readers of information
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this publication, either in editorial or
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• Meet Lola Johnson of Third Vault Yarns
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• Techniques • Shopping • And much more
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Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd.
ON SALE JANUARY 11

K176_P01_Eds Letter.indd 1 21/11/2017 13:05

 Contents...
ISSUE 176 JANUARY 2018

52

87 72
76 74

REGULARS FEATURES
1 Editor’s letter 13 Guest column:
5 News Louisa Harding
11 Spotlight on 16 Profile: Ysolda Teague
36 Style file 18 Top tips for knitters
46 Your views
93 Coming next month HOW TO
96 Purl about town
48 Techniques A-Z:
Bands and facings
REVIEWS 55 Masterclass:
Buttonholes
20 Books etc
NEVER MISS AN ISSUE!
Find your nearest shop that stocks Knitting 23 Yarn review
with this handy postcode finder and never
miss an issue again! seymour.magzene.com
GALLERIES

Join Knitting on.. 27 Fashion

38 Home and gifts
75
2 knit tingmag.com

K176_P02-03_Contents.indd 2 21/11/2017 13:09

 Knitting Welcome

78 66

85 88
PATTERNS CHILDREN & TOYS
50 Big cosy jacket 83 Penguin jumper
53 Sillvie 85 Seiland jumper, hat
58 Morning Glory and socks
61 Starry Night 88 Fred the mouse
64 Juno
66 Astrid HOME
68 Mackintosh
69 Rune bed runner
70 Fireside blanket
ACCESSORIES 72 Scandi tea cosy
and cushion
52 Isblomma
74 Winter cushion cover
57 Russell
75 Dalarna cushion cover
63 Fanø
76 Scandi-style blanket
87 Idunn wrist warmers
77 Celtic cable cushion
cover
MEN’S
78 Discretion
80 Troyer
81 Tomder Gwavek
50
3

K176_P02-03_Contents.indd 3 28/11/2017 11:28

 Beautiful designs for
you, from the world’s
best designers.

From international names,

to newly emerging talent.
Inspired by the brand, our
designers create patterns
with you in mind.

004_KNIT_176.indd 4 11/16/17 11:54 AM

 NEWS
We catch up on the latest yarns
PHOTOGRAPH: GABCZI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
GENERATION Z IN STITCHES
Yarn brands Wool and the Gang and DMC
have seen a surge in sales to 17 to 24-year-
olds – the so-called Generation Z.
Generation Z – the demographic cohort
after Millennials, typically born from the
mid-1990s to the mid-2000s – is the first
generation to have had access to the internet
at a very young age.
Wool and the Gang founder and DMC
creative director Jade Harwood says: “Over
the past year we have been noticing a rise in
new 17 to 24-year-old users, we think a lot of
this is to do with Generation Z turning away
from a wholly digital lifestyle and seeking out
in-real-life fulfilment.
“They are mindful activists
vists of the
craftivism movement and joining
communities that are likeminded
eminded -
they see needlecraft as ann art form
and a way to get their voices
ces heard.”
She tells Knitting: “GennZ
are looking to experience e new
things and are defined byy their
interests over their sexuality,
ality,
according to the Protein
Youth Report 2017.
“In keeping with this trend
end
we’ve also seen a rise in
demand for beginner and d Downey, AKA Badass Cross
starter kits, which supports
rts
this search for new skills
and interests.
“This season we’ve
launched our very first
beginner sweater and
our starter kits are the
best sellers throughout
our site.
K176_P05_In Stitches.indd 5
E
O
A DER
R FFER
Everyone needs an elephant to help
them remember to swatch before they
cast on for their next project – and we
have six of these cute needle and swatch
gauges from KnitPro to give away. As
well as helping check your tension and
needle size, these animals have a handy
yarn cutter thrown in. For your chance
to win, visit our Competitions page at
knittingmag.com.
“Social media still reigns supreme in terms
of how Gen Z are engaging with crafts, there
is a huge community where works are shared
on Instagram and Pinterest, with the ‘I made
this’ movement, rather than ‘I bought this’.
“We have 103,000 subscribers on our FIRST KNITTING
NITTING KITS
YouTube channel and our how-to-knit-a-scarf Trimits has launched a kit for budding
tutorial has more than 725,000 views. We knitters including everything they need
also know that our ‘in real life’ experiences to knit their own stripy clutch purse and
are hugely popular. There’s never been bow hairbands. The packs include pink
a time when we haven’t had one of our and white yarn, 4mm plastic knitting
workshops sell out.” needles, two hairbands, hook-and-loop
According to online newsletter tape, a plastic sewing needle, plastic
fastcompany.com, Gen Z-ers are frugal, hoops and full instructions, and retail
brand-wary, more collaborative and simply for £6.15.
“nicer”
nicer than their Millenial
Mill predecessors. It
adds that in the US, this cohort outnumbers
Millenials by some 1 million people. FAUX-FURRY FRIEND
The rise in popu
popularity of online Rowan has launched a range of super-
marketplace Etsy points to the group’s soft, hand-made, vegan faux fur
of crafts.
collective love o pompoms. The stylish accessories are
Craftivism is aanother element that made from 50% acrylic, 34% modal and
appeals to GeGeneration Z crafters, 16% polyester and come in five foxy
and WATG’s Jade says there is shades: Fox Cream, Fox Steel Grey, Fox
craftivism opportunity
“a huge cra Black, Fox Camel and Fox Coffee. Each
knitting”.
within kn has a ribbon to make it easy to attach to
DMC aalso sells embroidery garments and retails for £24.
threads, and has teamed up
threads
Chicago craftivist Sharon
with Ch
Downe
Stitch, to release a free
Stitch
pattern for her Boys
pa
Will Be Boys motif, one
W
of the most reposted
o
aand shared images
on Instagram amid a
worldwide debate on
wor
sexual harassment in circles
sexua
power.
of pow
knit tingmag.com 5
16/11/2017 14:43
 NEWS

SEAFARING SHEEP LAUNCH 4 PLY LINE

The seafaring sheep of the Birlinn Yarn Last summer Meg ran a design competition
Company have produced a brand new wool – and as a result designer Emma Vining has
a 4 ply in natural and dyed shades that joins teamed up with the brand to design two
the existing DK. accessories: the Machair Wildflower Shawl
The sheep are based on the remote island (pictured) and Storm Cast Cowl, which were
of Berneray in the Outer Hebrides but spend due to be released in December.
the summer being taken by boat to graze
uninhabited islands in the Sound of Harris.
Owner Meg Rodger says: “Living in this
wild and special place, we are constantly
reminded of how important it is to care for our
environment. Therefore, for our Hebridean
colour range we have used organic dyes to
over-dye our Storm Grey. The resulting colours
are beautifully subtle and broken, relating to
our rustic, wilderness environment.”
Meg is also working with her neighbours in
local crofts to buy in white Cheviot shearling
fleece to create Birlinn Yarn’s Storm Grey and
Speckled Hen yarns.
She says: “It feels good to be involving our
neighbours in Birlinn Yarn and to be adding
value to a local raw material which for years
brought virtually no income to crofters in
the islands.”

BUMPER CROP OF WINTER SUPER-SIZE ME

YARNS AND DESIGNS
Stylecraft has released two new yarns and a range of patterns for winter.
Batik Swirl comes in 200g cakes with a subtle dappled effect to
create a sense of texture and block tonal transitions to create colour
changes as you work.
It comes in six shades at £9.99 per cake and is backed by a collection
of knitting and crochet patterns for women and girls.
The company has also launched a collection of babies’ and
toddlers’ designs in Wondersoft DK, including jumpers, cardigans,
hats and mittens.
And Stylecraft has tapped into the trend for princess blankets –
sleeved blankets that make you look like a princess as you relax on
your own sofa. It has launched two designs in Special Aran and Special
Chunky sized for women and girls.
Chunky knitter extraordinaire Lauren Aston has launched her latest
collection, including super-bulky yarns, kits from her recently published
book Super Chunky Knits and a range of ready-knitted goods.
Lauren says: “I’m so excited to launch the new collection and see
what you think, I’ve been working on it for just under a year and
pulling it all together. It’s a real divide of both sides of the business
with loads of new DIY products – that go hand in hand with my new
book – as well as some capsule ready-made items.
“I’ve tried to focus on doing a few things well rather than getting
too distracted so there’s a few select additions that I hope you’ll love.”
DIY launches include Giant, Jumbo and Super Chunky Merino
wool yarns (to be knitted with 40mm, 25mm and 10-12mm
needles respectively).
Lauren says: “The Super Chunky is a new ‘smaller’ yarn that I used
a lot in the book. The new Jumbo yarn is also used for a number of
projects in the book, it’s a lovely middle ground for chunky without
being gigantic. Ideal for both soft furnishings and accessories, it grows
really quickly and the needles (also out now) are easy to use once you
get going. Like the giant ones they can feel a little clumsy to begin with
due to the larger size but you soon get used to the feel of them and then
you’ll be away, whipping up scarves, cushions and santa hats in no time!”
Find out more at laurenastondesigns.com.

K176_P06-07_In Stitches.indd 6 16/11/2017 14:49


A YARN STORY
Y
GETS SOAK-ED
D
Carmen Schmidt, owner of Bath shop A Yarn
Story, has set up a distribution business and
signed up luxury delicates wash brand Soak
from Canada and Lazadas blocking wires and
accessories from Israel.
A Yarn Story was already the distributor of
Cocoknits tools and accessories and Purl &
Loop weaving kits, which join Soak and Lazadas
under the new banner Octagon Distribution.
Carmen says: “A Yarn Story specialises in
those hard-to-find notions and yarns from
overseas, and since we were importing
them already for the shop it made sense to
distribute some of them as well.”
Soak owner Jacqueline Sava says: “Knowing
that Carmen operates a successful retail
business in Bath shows that she is very
familiar with the needs and desires of our
retail partners. We’re looking forward to
continuing to build strong partnerships with
our stockists as we grow the Soak business in
the UK.”
BRIT THEME FOR WILLOW & LARK
LoveKnitting has released a new yarn range
celebrating British design and inspired by the
colours of Britain’s natural landscapes.
Willow & Lark launches with four yarn
lines: Ramble is a 100% wool yarn that comes
in 50g balls priced at £4.79; Nest is a super-
soft blend of Merino, cashmere and tencel at
the same price; Plume is a silk and mohair
blend priced at £8.29 for a 25g ball and
Woodland is an alpaca-blend tweed yarn that
retails at £6.79 for 50g. All four come in a wide
range of colours, from neutrals and pastels to
bold brights.
The yarns launch along with a range of
garment and accessory patterns for women
and children inspired by classic British design.
K176_P06-07_In Stitches.indd 7
NEWS
My Yarn Shop
MIDWINTER YARNS
If you’ve been to a yarn fair in the past
few years or been hunting online for
Scandinavian yarns, chances are you will
have had the pleasure of coming across
Midwinter Yarns.
The business was launched four years
ago by Estelle Hughes – originally from
Sweden, more recently from Wales and
now based in Edinburgh. Estelle travels
the country selling her wares at fairs and
online, but stopped briefly to tell Knitting
all about her business.
She says: “I had orginally intended to
work with dyeing yarns, but realised that,
at the time, almost all undyed yarns were
supplied to dyers by two large companies –
meaning that although there was a wealth
of colours and styles out there, they were
essentially all the same yarn.
“This led me to search elsewhere for
different bases, eventually leading me to
my native Sweden, where I discovered a
wealth of beautiful, natural fibre yarns that
weren’t being marketed abroad.”
Midwinter Yarns’ most popular brand is
what Estelle calls a “workhorse yarn” made
by Ullcentrum on the island of Öland
in Sweden, while Finland’s Tukuwool is
another brand she is proud to stock.
The company is set to launch its own
yarn, Black & Blue – a blend of white
and black Bluefaced Leicester wool from
a single flock in North Wales. Estelle
says: “We had a batch of it very briefly
in the spring, but sold out of it all in one
weekend, so I am really looking forward to
working with it again.”
Because textile crafts and woodworking
are taught in schools in Sweden, knitting is
less of a niche hobby – and that is a culture
Estelle would like to import to Britain.
ourite
Nominate your fav
p an d wi n a copy of
yarn sho ilities
ver Pos sib
6000+ Pullo it
ma n if
by Melissa Leap
featu re d – si mpl y em ail
is
theg mcgroup.com
christine.boggis@
p’s det ails and a
with the sho love it.
you
brief note on why
knit tingmag.com
She says: “My first aim is to share some
of the rich knitting traditions we have in
Scandinavia, where knitting is much more
part of everyday life. Scandinavia also has a
very close relationship with nature and this
again is reflected in the yarns they produce.
When sourcing yarns for the shop, the
very first criteria for me are natural fibres,
first and foremost, and supporting smaller,
less well known companies. I also want to
show that natural fibres don’t have to be
expensive (our average price per 100g is just
around £10), and that they make healthy,
lasting garments.”
So what is it Estelle loves about
Scandinavian yarns and knitting? “I love
the appreciation of the natural fibre.
Scandinavian yarns are often quite rustic
with the lanolin left in so you can really
feel the connection between them and the
sheep they came from,” she says. “I also
love the colours – a lot of people think
Scandinavian style is all pale neutrals, but
actually we have some wonderful rich
shades which stand out so beautifully
against the natural greys.
“Finally I love that Scandinavian knitting
is designed to be lived in. It’s about yoked
sweaters passed down through generations
and thick slipper socks to slide around
on wooden floors. There is a mitten worn
in Lapland called the Lovikka, which is
intended to felt as it’s worn in snow and
bad weather, eventually making it perfectly
waterproof. I think that’s a great description
of the role of knitting in Scandinavia.”
Find out more at midwinteryarns.com.
7
16/11/2017 14:50
 What’s on
JANUARY 2018 MARCH
12-14 1-4
VOGUE KNITTING LIVE THE SPRING KNITTING
NEW YORK & STITCHING SHOW
This long-standing event brings Spend the day re-stocking your
together thousands of knitting yarn stash, learning to knit,
enthusiasts for a weekend show mastering the art of tailoring
filled with fashion, fibre and and more in London.
education in the United States. theknittingandstitching
vogueknittinglive.com show.com

21
WALTHAM ABBEY
WOOL SHOW
Find a wealth of workshops
including Knitted Wire Necklaces
and Patchwork Weaving as well
as a variety of exhibitors in Essex.
walthamabbeywoolshow.co.uk
8-11
THE SCOTTISH QUILTING
SHOW
Enjoy a great day out with
quilting competitions and
demonstrations, talks and
workshops in Glasgow.
thequiltingshow.co.uk

FIBRE FANS OF THE FUTURE JAN 20 – FEBRUARY 6 15-17

Luxury yarn brand The Fibre series of video tutorials on the MADEIRAN KNITTING EDINBURGH YARN FESTIVAL
Co has launched a design series company’s YouTube channel. & CROCHET RETREAT Fire up your imagination
that aims to take novice knitters Fibre Co founder Daphne Explore the subtropical island at the UK’s premier urban
to the next stage of their Marinopoulos says: “I wanted of Madeira on this seven-night hand knitting show in
crafting journeys. this Foundations series to knitting and crochet holiday in Scotland’s capital.
The eight-strong collection represent not only the face the company of Carol Meldrum. edinyarnfest.com
is called Foundations and the value of that word as it relates arenatravel.com
fi rst projects were launched in to the simple patterns, but also 15-18
The Fibre Co Road to China the deeper meaning that the FEBRUARY SEWING FOR PLEASURE
Light, a sport-weight blend of foundation of life is built on love, A three-day festival featuring
baby alpaca, silk, camel and just as each stitch in a hand knit 1-3 an array of the latest supplies,
cashmere, followed by patterns piece comes from the power THE CREATIVE ideas, demonstrations and
for baby alpaca, Merino and silk that hands have to create and CRAFT SHOW workshops designed to inspire
blend Tundra. pass on their love to the wearer, Browse new products your creativity in Birmingham.
Foundations aims to appeal to including oneself.” and innovations, watch sewingshow.co.uk
more experienced knitters as well The patterns are available demonstrations and take part
as beginners, and comes with a on Ravelry. in a range of workshops at 15-18
EventCity, Manchester. FASHION & EMBROIDERY
stitchandhobby.co.uk This event showcases astounding
INTRODUCING UMA KNITS exhibitions as well as workshops
A mother and daughter have teamed up to launch UMA Knits, a 16-18 and embroidery suppliers’ stands
York-based knitting kit business that debuts with The Hooty, a cute UNRAVEL in Birmingham.
newborn hat kit aimed at beginners. Discover a range of bookable fashionembroidery.co.uk
Mandy Brewer and Becky Allen created the business to spread the workshops, talks and
therapeutic power of knitting and crochet. Mandy says: “Knitting allows demonstrations as well as a APRIL
me to switch off from the stresses and strains of everyday life, I become vibrant marketplace at this
LTD

lost in the rhythmic repetitive movements of doing the same stitches.” annual yarn festival in Surrey. 7-8
PHOTOGRAPH: SUSAN MAC FARLANE FOR EDINBURGH YARN COMPANY

The kits include a luxury Merino and silk yarn, bamboo needles, craft.farnhammaltings.com SPRING INTO WOOL
COMP

easy-to-follow instructions and

nd a pattern tracker. A celebration of all things
You can follow UMA Knits on Instagram @uma_knits related to knitting, crochet, felt-
and Facebook @umaknitskits, s, and making, weaving, spinning and
a dedicated website is coming g soon. dyeing in Leeds.
springintowool.co.uk

29
KNITTING WITH COLOUR
WORKSHOP
Join Gwen Wagner-Adair to learn
two different techniques for
knitting with colour – Fairisle
Edin burgh and intarsia – in Leeds.
Yarn Festival petitchoufleurknits.co.uk

8 knit tingmag.com

K176_P08_In Stitches.indd 8 21/11/2017 13:11

009_KNIT_176.indd 9 11/16/17 11:55 AM
 SHOPPING

I KNITTING
This month’s makers’ must-haves

Clothing tag Phone case Blanket

£31.50, JSLaserCraft on etsy.com £12, JennyLemonCo on etsy.com £98, persora.com

Vintage project bag Weathering Journal by Hannah Viano Stamp set

Small £8, medium £16, large £26, £14.99, published by Sasquatch Books £12.62, talktothesun on etsy.com
sarah-hazell.com available from thegmcgroup.com

Scented candle Cushion Storage basket

£29, nest.co.uk £38, LittleKnittedStars on etsy.com £29.99, berryred.co.uk

10 knit tingmag.com

K176_P10_I Heart Knitting.indd 10 16/11/2017 14:52

 PAUL COSTELLOE
PHOTOGRAPHERS: ZOE LOWER, VIC LENTAGENE, NIGEL PACCQUETTE,
EEVA RINNE/BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL

Tweed is it right now. Quite apart from the range of gorgeous

tweed yarns that have launched recently, the classic fabric has
hit the runways in top designers’ autumn and winter collections

HAIZHENWANG
this season. There are tweedy fabrics from Haizhenwang,
Paul Costelloe and Shrimps, tartans and plaids from Osman,
Mulberry and Toga and classic wool coats from Antonio Berardi,
M
Edeline Lee and Palmer Harding. And tweed isn’t just for coats.
E
on
Spotlight
Style a tweed skirt with a classic white blouse à la Eudon Choi,
S

TWEED
wear it cropped like Natasha Zinko or sleeveless like Topshop.
w

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
OSMAN

TOPSHOP
MULBERRY

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
PALMER HARDING
NATASHA ZINKO

HALPERN
TOGA

ook
Get the L kshire
West Yor The Croft
s
Spinner

re Co
The Fib t
m ore Ligh
A r ra n

rris DK
Wendy Ha chunky
r
and supe

Dress £90, Laura Ashley • Jacket £44, Cotton Traders

d • Blouse
l £38,
3 Very
Bag £98, Jigsaw • Boots £170, Dune
11

K176_P11_Spotlight On.indd 11 16/11/2017 14:53

012_KNIT_176.indd 12 11/16/17 11:57 AM

Knitter s just want to have
FANØ
Louisa Harding and her husband Stephen took their yarn adventure,
Yarntelier, to Danish yarn and knitting event Strikkefestival. She takes
us with her on their road trip across Europe
W ith our van fully loaded, we are
taking Yarntelier from Yorkshire,
via the Channel Tunnel, Bruges
and Bremen, up the German autobahn to
Fanø, Denmark, to show our collection at the
three-day-long Strikkefestival. The weather is
atrocious: hurricanes are hitting the USA and
Caribbean and we are driving through the
fringes of this weather front.
En route we receive panicked emails from
Strikkefestival organiser, Danish designer
Christel Seyfarth, and her husband Jørgen.
They are expecting a storm on Fanø and
cannot put up the marquee because of
the strong winds. Fanø is the westernmost
island of Denmark and only accessible by
a ferry from the mainland. We make the
crossing – just. Driving from the ferry to our
K176_P13-14_Guest Column.indd 13
GUEST COLUMN
accommodation we spot the bare bones of
the marquee, the wind and rain lashing the
steel structure.
Another email: they are expecting the
storm to pass by morning and will do
everything possible to put the marquee up
and get back on track for set-up the following
day. That evening the wind blows open all
the doors and windows of our beachfront
accommodation, and we go to sleep to the
heavy beat of rain.
Christel and Jørgen organised the first
Fanø Strikkefestival in 2005 as an extension
of Christel’s design business, to bring
together designers, teachers, knitters and
yarn companies. The fi rst festival had 600
visitors, but this has grown to about 10,000.
It has been held in September since 2012,
knit tingmag.com
because the weather is normally perfect.
Waking the following day, we sense calm:
our accommodation is flooded not with water
but with crisp sunlight. Fanø has the North
Sea as its closest neighbour and is part of the
Wadden Sea National Park, recently elected
a Unesco World Heritage site. We don our
walking boots and take the short walk to the
beach, a great expanse of sand with the sea
a mere glint on the horizon. Fanø is a very
special place indeed, and over the centuries
has been home to a great number of artists
who have found their inspiration in its
impressive nature.
We take the short drive to the
Strikkefestival site, where the marquee is up,
but set-up is delayed until after lunch, giving
▼
us the opportunity to explore the island
13
16/11/2017 14:54

a little. We park the van and take a wander
around Nordby, the capital of Fanø. This town
is the heart of the festival in which Christel
and Jørgen have united events, workshops,
exhibitions, talks, fashion shows, live music,
good food and entertainment. Visitors say
Strikkefestival has more inspiration than you
could ever dream of, and we even find knitted
welcome signs dotted among thatched
fishermen’s cottages and hanging from walls
and gate posts.
True to the island’s artistic heritage,
many of Nordby’s shops are run by local
artisans: there is a glass-blowing workshop,
silversmiths specialising in amber jewellery
collected from the beaches and Christel’s
amazing design studio, with floor-to-ceiling
yarn, the colours intoxicating, her shawls
and sweaters intricately knitted to create
stunning displays. We stop for a coffee and
Danish pastry and watch the progress of the
marquee. With an hour or so before set-up
can begin, we take a 15-minute drive to the
southernmost tip of Fanø – to Sønderho,
a truly picturesque old town, the thatched
houses here bedded into the earth for shelter;
having experienced the previous night’s
storm, we understand why. We stumble upon
fabulous restaurants and coffee houses,
all with music and food events planned to
inspire the visiting yarn addicts. We stop for
14
K176_P13-14_Guest Column.indd 14
GUEST COLUMN
more coffee and Danish apple cake and sit
in the warm sunshine, the storm a distant
memory. We chat to the lovely enthusiastic
waitress who tells us how the local businesses
embrace Strikkefestival, with all the island’s
accommodation having been booked up for
months, and we gather how important this
event is to the people of Fanø.
Sightseeing over, we head back to Nordby
and the Strikkefestival marquee, where we
unload our van and arrange our stand. We are
one of 65 retailers at the show: many are from
Denmark, but there are a couple who have
also made the journey from the UK, including
Di Gilpin from Fife and Emma and Neil Boyles
from The Little Grey Sheep in Hampshire.
We are up bright and early on Friday
morning, excited to showcase our collection
of Yorkshire-spun cashmere yarns and
patterns, and learn that there is a queue of
“yarnies” waiting for the doors to open which
snakes right around the marquee. As well
as yarn sales, the festival offers a wide range
of workshops including classes on Faroese
shawls, designing your own patterns, men-
only events and colour knitting masterclasses
with instructors speaking Danish, English,
German, Norwegian, Faroese and Icelandic.
It truly feels like a harmonised mix of
participants, all brought together by a
common passion for yarn, knitting, spinning
knit tingmag.com
and crochet. Everywhere you look, people
are crafting: benches, beaches, coffee shops
and even the local microbrewery. As well as
yarn and knitting workshops, Strikkefestival
has a huge itinerary of things to do over the
weekend, all of which champion and celebrate
the local people of Fanø. On Saturday Christel
and Jørgen host a gala meal accompanied
by folk bands and a fashion show of
contemporary designs and national costume.
A Scottish folk band plays as the festival winds
down on a beautifully sunny Sunday afternoon,
making breaking down more an event than a
chore. What a whirlwind of a weekend it has
been. After the initial setback of the storm we
have met fabulous and enthusiastic knitters,
spinners and crocheters from all over northern
Europe. Early on Monday morning we are back
on the road, with only 920 miles to go to get back
home to Yorkshire.
I would thoroughly recommend a visit
to Strikkefestival Fanø to any knitter. It is
inspiring not only for the love of yarn, but
also the beautiful island scenery and the
warm welcome from the Fanø Islanders.
Louisa Harding is a designer and the
owner and creator of luxury cashmere
brand Yarntelier. Find out more about
Strikkefestival Fanø 2018 at
strikkefestival.dk/en and learn more
about Louisa at yarntelier.com.
16/11/2017 14:54
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17-285 knitting subs gift V2.indd 15 11/27/17 3:28 PM

 Nice work if you can get it
Edinburgh-based designer and retailer Ysolda Teague shares how she
turned her love of knitting into a successful business
T here is a handful of stars so famous that
you can say just their first name and
everyone knows who you mean: Elvis,
Madonna, Elton, for example. There are a few
of these stars in the knitting world too: there’s
Romi, Bristol, Jared – and there’s Ysolda.
Ysolda Teague is a young, Edinburgh-
based designer who now runs an online
shop selling, quite simply, things she loves.
“I assume if I really love something, other
people might too – and mostly that works
out,” she explains.
A quick browse of Ysolda’s Ravelry pages
leaves you in no doubt why she has become
a household name in stitching circles.
Modern, neat designs feature intricate lace,
cables and colourwork that intrigue knitters
and look great when they’re worn. Her Ishbel
shawl is one of the most popular designs
on Ravelry, with more than 14,000 projects
registered on the site.
Ysolda learnt to knit as a child, but didn’t
really get the bug until she was studying
16
K176_P16-17_Ysolda Profile.indd 16
English Literature at Edinburgh University.
You could say wool is in her blood – both
her grandfathers came from sheep farming
families, and one of them was a keen knitter.
“He passed away when I was seven so he
didn’t teach me,” Ysolda says. “When I was
getting into knitting my grandmother passed
away, and my aunt found these black bin bags
of yarn in the loft – my grandfather’s yarn.
He was really into Fairisle, so it was mostly
Jamieson & Smith from when it was sold
in 1oz skeins. There is a shade card in the
Shetland Textile Museum at Lerwick, and we
had that. I even found big bags of pompoms
I had made with him when I was little.”
Ysolda inherited her grandfather’s stash
and ended up designing her first commercial
pattern in the yarn.
She says she got into knitting “by accident”.
“I’ve never really had a job,” she admits.
When she was at university knitting blogs
weren’t quite the thing they are now, but
instead knitters and designers had their own
knit tingmag.com
websites. Ysolda picked up a few knitting
patterns online and then her friends started
asking if she would make things for them.
“I used a single ball of yarn to make hats
for all my stoner friends and charged them
£10 a hat so I could buy more yarn. It was just
before the social media culture so there are
no pictures of the hats I made and I’m really
glad,” she says.
She started posting things she knitted
online and getting comments from people
who wanted her patterns. “I was 18 or 19, at
which point you think: I can do anything.
It didn’t occur to me that this was a thing
people did as a job that might require some
sort of skill or training.” Print magazines like
the Rowan magazine she found intimidating,
but then she found online publication Knitty.
“I wrote a sweater pattern made from my
grandfather’s stash of Patons 3 Ply, priced
before decimalisation. It didn’t occur to me
that they would want a yarn people could
buy. The only way it occurred to me to grade
21/11/2017 13:14

it was to draw every stitch up on graph
paper and count the squares.” The Knitty
submission form said you could include a link
to your blog – so Ysolda started one.
“The first pattern I posted was a cushion
based on a 1970s Playboy cover. I had no idea
people were going to read this magazine or
follow the link, then I had about 10,000 hits
saying: I love your pattern, where are all your
other ones?
“I was at Edinburgh University doing
English, which meant I spent a lot of time
reading. I taught myself to knit while reading.
I knitted in lectures because I realised I was
taking notes I was never going to read. When
I was knitting I realised I was listening to
what they said and thinking about it rather
than just copying it out,” she says.
By the time Ysolda graduated in 2007 she
had released a couple of PDF patterns. Ravelry
started the same year. “It was kind of the
perfect timing,” she says. “When I put my first
PDF pattern up there were maybe three to four
people selling PDF patterns online. My first
customers were very sweet and very tolerant.”
After graduating she gave herself three
months to make a living from her knitting.
“I told myself: if at the end of three months
I’m not making minimum wage, I will figure
something else out. I think it took six weeks.”
She started with a club, selling yarn,
patterns, project bags and kits, then moved
into books – both self-published design
collections and books she bought in. “I had
some infrastructure in place for shipping
stuff, but with a club you don’t send anything
for months, then send hundreds of parcels.
Two years ago I decided it was going to be
easier to just send stuff every day.”
Today her product range includes yarn
custom-spun by John Arbon, blocking wires,
Japanese stitch dictionaries, knitting kits
including quite a few Fairisle ones with yarn by
Jamieson & Smith, other yarns and also non-
knitting-related books such as Dead Feminists
by Chandler O’Leary and Jessica Spring and
Colour: Travels through the Paintbox by
Victoria Finlay, a travel book about the history
of pigments and dyes. “Travel books about
nerdy research are my favourite genre,” says
Ysolda. “We mostly don’t sell pattern books
or things that are really trend-based. I want
things that are going to be part of your core
library for years. We have this amazing book
that is currently only in Norwegian and people
still buy it for £54-56.”
“The working title of the store was Stuff
Ysolda Likes,” she explains. “I like being able
to introduce people to things and it makes
sense from a business point of view too.”
The shop’s expansion and official launch
last year has led to Ysolda taking on staff
to help her out. She says: “I have learned I
don’t like working by myself, it’s been really
K176_P16-17_Ysolda Profile.indd 17
PROFILE
Top shops
enjoyable having a small team. It gets a bit Ysolda picks five favourites from her
scary when you are responsible for someone range at ysolda.com
else’s mortgage and feeding their children, so
I’m kind of motivated to keep being able to
pay people.
“There is not a lot of time left for designing
patterns anymore, but I really like doing
lots of different things. Selling patterns is
getting harder and harder, the market is really
saturated. It is really exciting that there is so
much creativity and so many people have
been able to get into it, but it is not like it was
in 2010 and it’s hard to make a living when
everything you sell is £4-5 and people only
A Shetlander’s Fairisle
need to buy one.” Graph Book, £20
Looking ahead, Ysolda’s goal is
sustainability – both in wool production and
knitwear. She has a custom-spun yarn in the
pipeline that aims to make use of fleece that
would otherwise go to waste.
She says: “As much as there is a resurgence
in sales of local wool or wool from the UK,
there is still a lot that just isn’t being used.
People are slowly becoming interested in not
just the idea of a local yarn, but the idea that
they would want something that isn’t BFL and
super-soft, and that different types of fibre
have purposes. cocoknits sweater care kit, £75
“A lot of farmers find the cost of shearing
is higher than what they can get for the
fleece, which is really depressing. There are
farmers shearing sheep themselves, badly,
and burning or burying the wool because
that makes economic sense. Margins are tiny
and on a bad year for wool a small farm can’t
spend money on shearing if it’s not going to
pay for itself.”
She goes on: “I’m thinking a lot about
how we as a whole industry can keep things
sustainable as trends change, and I don’t want saudade knitting kit, £18.75
everything to be about impulse-buying the
latest thing. I don’t really teach anymore, but
when I did teach sweater knitting a lot of it
was about yarn choices, and that if you want
something that is durable, that you are going
to wear for 10 years then pass on to your
children, superwash Merino is not your friend.
“We also need to look at what is sustainable
for individual knitters. There are people
who are obviously hardcore into knitting,
who buy every book and magazine and go
to every show, but that is a pretty small
1,000 knitting patterns book
segment of knitters. by t seto, £54
“I think it is a sustainable industry if
there is something a lot of people pick up
sometimes when they see something they
really love, or they want a garment. We have
sort of lost that culture where everyone could
knit, and maybe it wasn’t a passion but it was
something we enjoyed doing sometimes. I
want people to be able to access that without
selling their life out, and I want them to be
able to make stuff they are satisfied with a few
years from now as well as when they started.”
katrinkles accessories
£1.75-16
knit tingmag.com 17
21/11/2017 13:14

Getting better
Is your new year’s resolution to make your knitting even better?
We’ve asked knitting experts for their top tips on how to do just that
I can’t say this enough: gauge swatch and
block! Avoid disappointment and just do
it. The only way you can get a well-fitting
garment is to swatch, and there are no
shortcuts. Accept that these tasks are an
indispensable part of knitting, embrace
them and learn to love them.
Get the best blocking tools you can
afford or fi nd tutorials on how to block
using string. You won’t regret it, as your
fi nished projects will fit you properly, you
won’t run out of yarn and the project will
look amazing.
Linda Lencovic, Kettle Yarn Co
It is all in the finishing off. Don’t rush the
finishing. We have spent so much time
knitting something, but if we rush it right
at the end we are never going to be happy
wearing it. Block properly and enjoy the
sewing together: it is like breathing life into
a three-dimensional thing. A lot of knitters
don’t like seams, but they are there for a
PHOTOGRAPH: KOSTIKOVA NATALIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
reason – to give a garment structure. It will
give it longevity if it has good seams. Make
sure the back is tight. Cast off stitches on
the back neck quite tightly, that is going to
give you some rigidity.
Louisa Harding, Yarntelier
True inspiration will keep you going until
the end. The more you love what you are
doing, the better you will get at it.
Rachel Buckvold, marketing
and sales director, Blue Sky Fibers
18
K176_P18-19_Be a Better Knitter.indd 18
SKILLS
Find an in-person instructor to mentor you
as you try new techniques. Most local yarn
stores have experienced knitters on staff and
many offer classes and knitting groups where
you can connect with other knitters to share
wisdom and ideas.
A popular way to learn new techniques is to
try a sampler afghan. In honour of our 30th
anniversary, we hosted the Knitterati Afghan
Knit Along blanket, which has 30 blocks, each
designed by a different top designer using
a variety of techniques. An afghan block is
a quick way to try a new technique without
committing to making an entire garment.
Rob and Shannon Dunbabin,
owners of Cascade Yarns.
Don’t be afraid to try! At the end of the day,
there are only two stitches to learn, knit
and purl. It’s all just a matter of how you put
them together. Will you make mistakes? Sure!
But that’s OK, just rip back and try again.
This isn’t brain surgery, it’s just good, old-
fashioned fun.
Beth Casey, Lorna’s Laces
I have just two tips: practice and progression!
Do a little bit every day to keep your skills
up and keep practising. From there, keep
pushing yourself with each project. Push
yourself a little more out of your comfort
zone each time to create that progression in
your learning.
Felicia Lo, SweetGeorgia Yarns
knit tingmag.com
Don’t be afraid to try new things and to
experiment – the more you know, the more
options you will have.
Oejong Kim, Loopy Mango
Keep knitting! Practice makes perfect, and
don’t be afraid to rip out knitting you don’t
like and start over. For me it’s about the
journey – having something to wear at the
end of the journey is a bonus.
Betsy Perry, president, Classic Elite Yarns
Knitting is like writing. If you want to get
better at it, you have to do it every day. I also
think a lot of knitters are afraid of certain
techniques and are almost paralysed by the
thought of trying them. We did an informal
poll on our Facebook page and the knitters
told us they were afraid of cables (which just
baffles me), lace knitting, colourwork and
steeking. OK, the steeking I understand!
It was really interesting because there
were knitters who had zero fear of really
complicated lace but wouldn’t dream of
casting on for a colourwork project.
So I think in addition to knitting every day,
we become better knitters by facing those
anxieties and trying something new every
couple of months. After all, what’s the worst
that can happen? Having to rip out your work
and start over only makes you a better knitter
in the end.
Susan Gibbs, Juniper Moon Farm
16/11/2017 14:57

all the time
Be fearless! I deliberately don’t put skill levels
on my patterns as I think with enough time
even a new knitter can master more advanced
skills. All it needs is time, patience and a
willingness to make mistakes.
Carol Feller, designer
Try something you’ve not knitted before,
either a new stitch pattern or a different sort
of project. And if you get stuck, look online or
ask one of your knitting friends.
Jo Allport, designer
My top tip would be: take time to check
tension. I know people hate doing it, but
I think they would be surprised at how
different people can have such varying
tension. I recently made a Fairisle slipover
vest for a retro festival for my other half,
and I had to go down two sizes from what
was stated in the pattern for his size to get
the actual size needed. My tension was way
different from the designer’s, and this was
the only way I could get near to the size
I required.
Carol Ibbetson,
knit and crochet pattern editor
When working from a knitting or crochet
pattern, follow the order of the pattern,
where the back normally comes first. If it is
not written to rows but measurements, count
and mark with a coloured thread how many
rows you are working in each section. This
“True inspiration will keep you going until the end. The more
you love what you are doing, the better you will get at it.”
K176_P18-19_Be a Better Knitter.indd 19
SKILLS
makes it much easier to work the correct
number of rows on the front.
When picking up stitches for front bands,
pick up three stitches for every four rows. For
some reason this is a fairly good guide. If you
are only a couple of stitches out these can be
decreased or increased on the first row.
For shoulder shaping, instead of casting
off groups of stitches, work the stitches
but do not cast them off. On the following
row do not work the stitches. When joining
the shoulders, place the pieces right sides
together and use the three-needle cast-off
method. This will ensure a neat flat seam over
the shoulder.
Penny Hill, designer
My one tip would be: learn how to sew your
knitted pieces together! There’s the fun of
buying the yarn and the enjoyment of the
knitting, then that cheery smile fades as the
sewing together does not do the work justice.
I invested in a one-day finishing course years
ago at my local yarn shop, and it transformed
my knits.
Pat Strong, designer and yarn shop owner
Always do a tension square! Slip the first
stitch and knit the last stitch of every row
to make an even edging. Learn how to do
mattress stitch, and always press your pieces
before sewing up.
Rachel Vowles, pattern editor
knit tingmag.com
The actual knitting is of course really
important, but so is the finishing off – and
especially any borders which need either
stitching on or require the stitches to be
knitted up from an edge.
For a separate knitted border, often in
rib or garter stitch, after you have cast
on the stitches stated, work the first strip
(this could be for a front edge border for
example) until you think you have roughly
the correct length. Don’t cast off yet but
leave the ball or a long end hanging. Now
tack the border in place, ensuring that it
lies flat with the edge you are working on,
and does not droop. You can now adjust
the number of rows and cast off. If the
border needs buttonholes, you will now
be able to work out the number of rows
between each.
If you are picking up and knitting
stitches from an edge, I always like to pick
up by inserting the needle one stitch in
from the edge. You can also pick up from
the very edge stitch, but this is harder to
do and I think does not give such a neat
finish. Happy finishing off!
Pat Menchini, designer
My top tip would be to get a good blocking
mat, preferably one that is marked up as
a grid and also with circles and curves.
Makes sewing up a breeze!
Sarah Hazell, designer
19
16/11/2017 14:57
 REVIEWS
Christine Boggis and Jen Neal try out the latest releases
KNIT LIKE A LATVIAN
MITTEN KIT
If you’ve seen Hobbywool’s Knit Like
a Latvian mitten kits at shows, in
shops or online I expect that, like me,
you’ve been salivating over them. The
colourwork designs are so intricate and
beautiful that when you’ve got them all
in front of you it’s almost impossible to
choose just one. The kit includes a pattern
(or “recipe”) including a colourwork chart and
the yarn, but not the needles – which worked
out well for me as I needed to go up a size from
the recommended 1.5mm. The written pattern
itself is not for the faint-hearted: instructions are
not spelt out but leave the knitter to work out
how many stitches are required by swatching,
and some of the instructions needed to be
taken with a pinch of salt. However, the charted
section is very straightforward to follow and in
the version I knitted only one line in the repeat
had all three colours, with most worked in two
colours per row – making it accessible even to
Fairisle novices. In spite of the thin yarn, the
mitten knits up quickly with plenty of interest
per row, and once it was finished, woven in and
blocked I almost couldn’t believe that I had
knitted this beautiful item myself! CB
Latvian mittens DIY knitting kit, £17.48,
HobbywoolRiga on etsy.com
20
K176_P20-21_Reviews.indd 20
THE KNITTING ALL AROUND
STITCH DICTIONARY
Wendy Bernard
This comprehensive stitchionary is Wendy
Bernard’s follow-up to her first book, the
Up, Down, All-Around Stitch Dictionary.
Every knitter needs at least one good stitch
dictionary, but most of the classics only offer
back-and-forth, one-way options for their
designs. This one, however, has each and
every stitch pattern written out and charted
both for back and forth and in-the-round
knitting, and of the 150 stitches featured
only four basics are repeated from the
original volume. There are textured stitches,
ribs, twisted and fancy stitches, lace, cable
and a big section on mosaic knitting with
20 inspiring patterns. As well as featuring
a beautiful design to illustrate each section
in the book, it concludes with customisable
designs for socks, hats and shawls – each
workable from the top down or the bottom
up. All this is in an attractive spiral-bound
hardback volume that will stay open as you
knit, a perfect gift for any crafter. CB
£18.99, Abrams
THE WOOLLY HAT
KNITTING CLUB Poppy Dolan
Meet ambitious, driven management
consultant Dee Blackthorn, who steps in to
rescue her brother JP when he breaks both
his wrists and can’t run his independent yarn
shop on his own. Dee moves back to the
town she grew up in, rebuilds old friendships
and, of course, learns to knit. This is a sweet,
entertaining, feelgood read that is more
about Dee getting to know herself and
learning the joys of life in the slow lane than
about the gentle romance that unfolds as she
does so. It’s also all about how knitting can
spread warmth and love, a great easy read
for a spot of winter escapism. CB
Ebook £1.99, Amazon
knit tingmag.com
16/11/2017 14:58
 REVIEWS

50 TIPS FROM SHETLAND KNITTERS

Hazel Tindall and Elizabeth Johnston
Once you pass the age of 18 you can’t expect to have films vetted because they’re too scary,
but just a word of warning to any fellow steeking virgins: this DVD shows scenes of people
cutting up bits of intricate knitting. With scissors. Also, there are boot-quaking sections where
whole groups of stitches are dropped off needles and undone, barely assuaged by a calming
Scottish voice telling you: “Those stitches aren’t going anywhere.” Shetlanders Hazel Tindall
and Elizabeth Johnston have been knitting since before they can remember, and have come
together to share 50 tips from their long experience, ranging from basics like casting on,
knitting and purling to a whole host of extras like thumbs, pockets and heels, changing colours
in Fairisle and plenty of finishing techniques. It’s particularly intriguing for a southern, English-
style knitter to watch the pair using long double-pointed needles and a knitting belt. With more
than three-and-a-half hours of tips, it’s a comprehensive overview that offers beginners and
advanced knitters alike plenty to learn. CB
DVD £25 from hazeltindall.com, download US$30 (approx £23) from vimeo.com

GRANNY SQUARES HOME:

20 CROCHET PROJECTS WITH A VINTAGE VIBE Emma Varnam
The humble granny square will always have its place in crochet: it’s versatile and there is no
project you could apply it to without success. Emma proves this point with her 20 vintage-
inspired crochet projects in Granny Squares Home, with everything from the traditional
granny square blanket to children’s toys. She’s also applied granny squares to a baby mobile and
matching cuddly toys as particular favourites. Emma’s use of bright colours really catches the
eye, and makes each pattern pop and inspire. Accessible to novice crocheters, this book has an
extensive techniques section that applies to all the projects in the book, as well as useful guides
on tools and materials. It will make the perfect gift to somebody who is just picking up their
hook for the first time. Accompanied by clean, gorgeous photography, it is easy to say there will
be something for everyone in Emma’s book, but chances are it will be a case of everything for
everyone, as it is hard to pick which project to start with! JN
£14.99, GMC. Available from thegmcgroup.com

SLOW KNITTING Hannah Thiessen

The slow food movement taught food-lovers to appreciate everything about their food, from
the land it was raised on to the way it was prepared. Slow Knitting aims to do the same thing
for knitting. Author Hannah Thiessen encourages knitters to create a slow wardrobe by
savouring their knitting and their yarn – and getting as much out of them as they can. She
believes knitters should know more about where their yarn comes from, and over the course
of the book introduces inspiring companies such as Green Mountain Spinnery, O-Wool and
Brooklyn Tweed, each with a design to showcase its yarn. Designers include big names like
Bristol Ivy, Carol Feller and Nora Gaughan. Favourite patterns include a super-soft longline
cardigan called Luma by Véronik Avery in Woolfolk Får and gorgeously cabled jumper Russian
Sage by Julia Farwell-Clay in Sincere Sheep Cormo Sport. This beautifully photographed
hardback is packed with mouthwatering yarn images, but the best thing about it is its mindful
approach to the whole process of knitting, literally from the grassroots munched by the sheep
to the clothes on your back. CB
£21.99, Abrams

A YEAR OF TECHNIQUES Jen & Jim Arnall-Culliford

You might think that with so many techniques books, videos and blogs available we might get
tired of looking at new ones – but you’d be wrong. In fact, as Jen and Jim Arnall-Culliford put it so
aptly on the cover of their new book, there’s always something new to learn. Every now and again
I’ll think that I’m reviewing a book and suddenly find that I’m on my hands and knees rummaging
through my stash or half way (or all the way) through buying yarn from a website – and this
book got me doing just that. There are 12 new techniques divided into seasons, with a design
to practise each technique – and I think it’s this partnership of techniques and designs, many of
which are little, potentially stashbusting projects, that makes this book so irresistible. And that
is even before you see the illustrious line-up of designers featured, including Rachel Coopey,
Martina Behm, Romi Hill and Tin Can Knits. All the designs are gorgeous, and the techniques
range from a simple trick to avoid jogs on in-the-round stripes to the dreaded steeking, with clear
photo instructions. Excuse me, but I can’t write any more – I’m off to cast on. CB
£20, acknitwear.co.uk

knit tingmag.com 21

K176_P20-21_Reviews.indd 21 16/11/2017 14:58

 ‘G l d i l’ project
‘Galadriel’ j t
available to buy as a
kit from Amazon

QUALITY YARNS & EYE CATCHING

DesignEtte.dk PATTERNS FOR OPTIMAL FIT

022_KNIT_176.indd 22 11/20/17 10:10 AM

 REVIEWS

YARN REVIEW
Jeanette Sloan tries out some new yarns for the New Year

knittingmag.com 23

K176_P23-25_Yarn Review.indd 23 16/11/2017 14:59

 YEOMAN YARNS
PANAMA DK
Yeoman Yarns Panama DK is a
blend of 50% cotton and 50%
acrylic with a firm, cord-like feel.
This fibre combination creates a
light-reflecting contrast of matt
and shine which adds lots of
interest to an otherwise solid-
coloured yarn.
There’s no natural give in
this yarn, so while knitting you’ll
need to avoid pulling too tightly
so you don’t end up with a rigid,
lifeless fabric.
Once knitted and given a
gentle steam, however,
it loosens up, becoming a
much more fluid fabric with a
slightly open texture and good
stitch definition.
The palette of 14 shades
focuses on classics like navy and
black with neutrals like cream,
white and beige, but there are
also pops of brighter colours
like Lime and the fiery red Fiesta
(shown here). This yarn may be
machine-washed at 40ºC or
hand-washed.
Composition: 50% cotton,
50% acrylic
Weight: 100g Length: 200m
Rec needle size: 4mm
Tension (10cm): None given
RRP: £2.95
Contact: Yeoman Yarns
T: 0116 240 4464
E: sales@yeomanyarns.co.uk
W: yeoman-yarns.co.uk
24
K176_P23-25_Yarn Review.indd 24
ROWAN VALLEY TWEED
Rowan Valley Tweed is a fine
4 ply 100% wool yarn that’s both
spun and dyed in Huddersfield.
If you’re a long-standing fan of
the brand, this yarn reminded me
a little of Rowanspun 4 Ply from a
few years back.
It has a slightly uneven texture
along the length of the yarn and
there are tiny flecks of accent
colours adding interest and
giving the yarn a rustic look and
plenty of tweedy character when
knitted up.
It has a lovely fine quality that
you’ll feel as it passes through
your fingers and produces
neatly formed stitches and a
lightweight fabric with a soft,
airy feel. There are 10 shades
including grey-beige 102
Littondale (shown here), and
a selection of seven ladies’
patterns available to download.
Designed by Lisa Richardson,
they’re just the sort of projects
you’d wrap yourself in for a
Sunday afternoon stroll, so think
drop-shoulder sweater, cropped
textured cardigan and turtle-
neck poncho. This yarn should
be hand-washed then dried flat.
Composition: 100% wool
Weight: 50g Length: 207m
Rec needle size: 3.25mm
Tension (10cm): 24 sts x 36 rows
RRP: £8.95
Contact: Rowan
W: knitrowan.com
knittingmag.com
CASCADE YARNS
LLAMERINO
Cascade Yarns Llamerino is a
luxurious blend of 50% baby
llama and 50% Merino wool. It
knits up evenly as a sport-weight
yarn (between 4 ply and DK),
producing a fine, lightweight
fabric with neat stitches and
just a touch of haze that gently
blurs the stitches without losing
all definition.
This yarn has a buttery-soft
handle and is not only gentle
on the skin but delightfully soft
and warm to wear, making it
ideal for accessories like cowls,
fingerless mitts and hats. That
said, it would also work well for
knitted lace structures worked
on a slightly larger needle or, if
you prefer, dense crochet fabrics
or crocheted lace.
There’s a palette of just six
undyed, natural shades which
will match pretty much any
outfit, including 6 Charcoal
(shown here). You’ll find pattern
support for both knitting and
crochet on the website. This
yarn should be hand-washed
cold then laid flat to dry.
Composition: 50% baby llama,
50% Merino wool
Weight: 100g Length: 267m
Rec needle size: 3.75mm
Tension (10cm): 24 sts
RRP: £12.39
Contact: Cascade Yarns
W: cascadeyarns.com
NORO KOTORI
Noro Kotori (“bird of luck” in
Japanese) is a richly coloured
blend of 75% wool, 10% cotton,
8% viscose and 7% silk. I was
surprised to see it described
as a DK-weight because this
slubby yarn widens from being
regularly twisted and around
2mm thick to around 8mm with
a much looser twist.
There’s so much going on in
terms of colour and texture that
there’s no chance of getting
bored, even if all you’re knitting
is stocking stitch.
It produces a beautifully
light fabric with countless pops
of colour throughout, and if
you’re knitting a project like an
accessory where fit isn’t an issue
you might even like to try a 5mm
needle for a more fluid feel.
There are five shades including
green-based 7 Labyrinth (shown
here), and pattern support in
the brand’s magazine 11. Do not
wash or tumble-dry, dry flat in
the shade. May be dry-cleaned
with care.
Composition: 75% wool,
10% cotton, 8% viscose, 7% silk
Weight: 100g Length: 280m
Rec needle size: 4-4.5mm
Tension (10cm): 16-18 sts x
24-26 rows
RRP: £24.95
Contact: Designer Yarns
T: 01535 664222
W: designeryarns.uk.com
23/11/2017 11:34
 SUBLIME ELODIE
Sublime Elodie is made from
100% extra-fine Merino wool with
multiple ends of soft, smooth
fibre plied and twisted together
to give a lovely rounded feel. The
printed effect is understated,
giving the fabric an all-over
mottled look when knitted.
It has a bouncy texture which
ensures stitches sit snugly next
to each other and textures like
moss stitch, twists and cables
are beautifully pronounced.
There are eight cool shades
focusing mainly on green, purply
and brown mixes. The only
pink-based shade is 596 Serenity
(shown here), a gently dappled
magenta lifted by touches of
mint and peach.
Pattern support can be found
in the Elodie Design Book of
15 ladies’ patterns. It features
simply-shaped garments and
accessories where colours are
blended. Machine-washable at
30ºC on a wool cycle, do not
tumble-dry or iron. The sample
has been very carefully steamed.
May be dry-cleaned with care.
Composition: 100% extra-fine
Merino wool
Weight: 50g Length: 116m
Rec needle size: 4mm
Tension (10cm): 22 sts x 28 rows
RRP: £6.54
Contact: Sublime
E: contactus@sublimeyarns.com
W: sublimeyarns.com
K176_P23-25_Yarn Review.indd 25
WEST YORKSHIRE
SPINNERS THE CROFT
The Croft Shetland Tweed has
given West Yorkshire Spinners
the opportunity to work with
Jamieson & Smith to produce
this extremely high quality,
durable yarn spun from 100%
Shetland Island wool.
It has a wonderful springy
texture and although the term
“tweed” may make you think of a
nubby fibre with a rustic texture,
this plied and twisted yarn has a
lovely smooth handle with a dye
effect printed on the surface.
It knits to an aran weight,
producing a dense, warm fabric
with light freckles of colour and
great stitch definition so any
ribs, cables or textured stitches
won’t get lost. There are eight
ecru-based shades to choose
from including 762 Clousta
(shown here). The Croft Pattern
Book features 14 sweater,
cardigan and accessory designs
for men and women by Sarah
Hatton. Machine-wash at 30°C.
Re-shape while damp but do not
tumble-dry.
Composition: 100% Shetland
Island wool
Weight: 100g Length: 166m
Rec needle size: 5mm
Tension (10cm): 18 sts x 24 rows
RRP: £8.50
Contact: West Yorkshire
Spinners
W: wyspinners.com
knittingmag.com
BROOKLYN TWEED VALE
If the sight of a lace yarn makes
your blood run cold, this could
be the one to tempt you.
Brooklyn Tweed Vale is a
plied and twisted lace-weight
yarn made from 100% American
Rambouillet wool. Like the rest
of the BT range it’s a truly North
American product, with every
part of the process, from the
fleece to dyed skein, taking
place in the US.
Rambouillet sheep (also
known as French Merinos) are
raised in Wyoming and produce
a 21.5-micron fibre that’s
scoured and combed in South
Carolina before being worsted-
spun and eco-dyed in Maine.
The resulting yarn is extremely
strong, with a smooth hand-feel
and a lovely crimpy texture.
The palette of 14 shades
covers almost every taste and
you’ll find lots of pattern support
on the website, where the Vale
Collection includes lacy shawls,
stoles and cowls for a range of
skill levels. Soak in cold water
for 10 minutes with minimal
agitation then gently squeeze in
a towel before drying flat.
Composition: 100% American
Rambouillet wool
Weight: 50g
Length: 411m (450 yds)
RRP: US$13.75 (approx £10.49)
Contact: Brooklyn Tweed
W: brooklyntweed.com
WOOL AND THE GANG
OUT OF SPACE DYED YARN
Multiple ends of fine cotton
fibre are twisted together to
produce Wool and the Gang
Out of Space Dyed Yarn, a
colour addition to the well-loved
Shiny Happy Cotton. Made from
100% Peruvian Pima cotton
hand-picked on the north coast
of Peru, this strong, beautifully
rounded yarn has an ultra-
smooth handle and a dreamily
soft, doughy texture.
It has a rich lustrous
appearance but without the
crisp handle of a mercerised
cotton and knits to an aran
tension, producing a cool,
supple fabric with beautiful
drape. Shade 101 Spots (shown
here) has randomly occurring
flecks of black dotted along
the length of a pristine white
base – just think of a Dalmatian
dog and you’ll get the idea –
and is one of a range of four
space-dyed shades. There are kits
and patterns in the Shiny Happy
Cotton collection. Hand-wash at
30ºC then dry flat, do not tumble-
dry. May be dry-cleaned.
Composition: 100% Peruvian
Pima cotton
Weight: 100g Length: 142m
Rec needle size: 5mm
Tension (10cm): 16 sts
RRP: £9
Contact: Wool and the Gang
W: woolandthegang.com
25
28/11/2017 11:40
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026_KNIT_176.indd 26 11/22/17 10:23 AM

 BIG COSY JACKET
Sian Brown
Yarn Noro Silk Garden
Skill level Beginner Plus
Pattern page 50

Wrap up in this simple self-patterning

cardigan with beautiful colour effects
to warm your cockles.

NORDIC
KNITS
With its sleek simplicity and
beautiful Fairisle designs,
Scandinavian knitting is
perfect for winter. There’s
colourwork to brighten up This month
’s gallerie
the darker days and cosy photograph s were
ed on loca
Sea breeze tion at
chunky designs to add a bit holiday co
Hastings, tt
East Susse age,
of hygge to your wardrobe Availa ble x.
to let fro
for the colder months. mulberryco m
ttages.com

27

K176_P27-34_Gallery 01.indd 27 16/11/2017 15:00

 ISBLOMMA
Bronagh Miskelly
Yarn Ullcentrum Lace 1 Ply
Skill level Advanced
Pattern page 52

This beautifully intricate lace

shawl is worked in segments,
using short row shaping to
create the wedge shapes.

28

K176_P27-34_Gallery 01.indd 28 16/11/2017 15:00

 s
Masterclas55
See page

SILLVIE
Jo Allport
Yarn Sublime Superfine Alpaca DK
Skill level Beginner Plus
Pattern page 53

Simple and elegant, this stylish

jumper with trendy button side
details epitomises the plain but
effective Scandi ethos.

29

K176_P27-34_Gallery 01.indd 29 16/11/2017 15:00

 RUSSELL
Sarah Hazell
Yarn Erika Knight British Blue 100
Skill level Beginner Plus
Pattern page 57

An oversized colour block scarf

worked in a Scandi-inspired slip
stitch pattern, Russell is the perfect
neckwear for men or women.

MORNING GLORY
Designette
Yarn DesignEtte Boticelli or
Naturino and Andrea di Bonaiuto
Skill level Advanced
Pattern page 58

This beautiful, intricate stranded

colourwork jumper is knitted in a
traditional Norwegian technique
with the armholes cut by steeking –
not for the faint-hearted!

30

K176_P27-34_Gallery 01.indd 30 16/11/2017 15:00

 STARRY NIGHT
Pat Strong
Yarn Debbie Bliss Fine Donegal
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 61

This beautifully simple yoked sweater in

just two shades of a textured, tweedy yarn
makes a great introduction to stranded
colourwork jumpers.

31

K176_P27-34_Gallery 01.indd 31 16/11/2017 15:00

 LEFT ABOVE
FANØ JUNO
Louisa Harding Debbie Bliss
Yarn Yarntelier Cashmere Gilli Yarn Debbie Bliss Aymara
Skill level Intermediate Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 63 Pattern page 64

This cute stranded capelet was With bright, bold colours and
inspired by Louisa’s love of super-soft yarn, this pattern
Nordic knitting. is the perfect antidote to the
winter blues.

32

K176_P27-34_Gallery 01.indd 32 16/11/2017 15:00

 ASTRID
Pat Menchini
Yarn King Cole Indulge Chunky
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 66

This super-soft jumper with side splits

and a flattering longer back is designed
to boost your hygge levels this winter.
Its impressive colourwork design is
made achievable thanks to a simple
pattern repeat and easy-fit shaping.

33

K176_P27-34_Gallery 01.indd 33 28/11/2017 11:22

 MACKINTOSH
Martin Storey
Yarn Rowan Cashmere Tweed
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 68

Practise your Nordic-style

colourwork with just two shades
in this classic striped design.

RUNE
Martin Storey
Yarn Rowan Big Wool
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 69

Martin Storey has such a love of

Scandinavian knitting that he
has written several books on the
subject. Rune, from Martin Storey's
Scandinavian Knits, is the cosiest
throw you could imagine, perfect
for your sofa or your bed.

34

K176_P27-34_Gallery 01.indd 34 16/11/2017 15:01

035_KNIT_176.indd 35 11/16/17 12:03 PM
 FASHION

STYLE FILE ASTRID IN KING COLE INDULGENCE CHUNKY

CAPRI COPPER CARMINE

SILLVIE IN SUBLIME SUPERFINE ALPACA DK

AURORA HARDY SERGE

STARRY NIGHT IN DEBBIE BLISS FINE DONEGAL

EMERALD PUNCH TERRACOTTA

36 knit tingmag.com

K176_P36-37_Style_File.indd 36 21/11/2017 15:12

 FASHION

Abby Costen suggests alternative colourways and styling ideas

for three knits from this month’s gallery.
It’s time to step out in style with these easy breezy Scandi-inspired outfits. With its graphic pattern, Astrid is the real deal when it comes
to Nordic fashion. Add contrasting fabrics like light chiffons and silks for an effortlessly chic look. Everyone loves a turtleneck jumper and
Sillvie is no exception. Team with a flirty skirt and minimal pointed flats to really keep it cool. Starry Night looks great with slim trousers
and low kitten heels, its celestial blue matching yellow tones perfectly.

SKIRT SHIRT SCARF SHOES

£12, George £85, Dubarry of Ireland £24, Oliver Bonas £12, JD Williams

COAT SKIRT SHOES WATCH

£50, Wallis £45, Jasper Conran £29, Accessorize £165, Amara

TROUSERS TOP BAG SUNGLASSES

£59, Monsoon £39, House of Fraser £15.99, New Look £12, Accessorize

knit tingmag.com 37

K176_P36-37_Style_File.indd 37 16/11/2017 16:39

 Hygge
home
There’s nothing like knits to give your
home that wonderfully warm, cosy,
comfortably convivial feeling that
doesn’t have a name in English but
is known to the Danes as “hygge”.

38

K176_P38-45_Gallery 02.indd 38 16/11/2017 15:02

 THIS PAGE
SCANDI
CUSHION AND
TEA COSY
Pat Strong
Yarn New Lanark Pure Wool
Chunky
Skill level Beginner Plus
Pattern page 72

Tree motifs and geometric

designs in stranded colourwork
create a great winter look for
your home, and in a quick-knit
chunky yarn they make a good
introduction to Fairisle knitting.

OPPOSITE PAGE
FIRESIDE
BLANKET
Pat Strong
Yarn New Lanark Pure Wool
Chunky
Skill level Beginner Plus
Pattern page 70

A chunky textured blanket

perfect for the bedroom or the
living room, with leaf, tree and
star motifs worked in knit and
purl stitches.

GET THE LOOK

scandi style

Into The Wild wallpaper Retro Tube II bedstead Tonfisk Reuna serving tray
£59.95 per roll, bobbyrabbit.co.uk £695, bedmonkey.com £43, carolinemcgrath.co.uk
39

K176_P38-45_Gallery 02.indd 39 16/11/2017 15:03

 WINTER
Sian Brown
Yarn Rico Essentials
Soft Merino Aran
Skill level Beginner Plus
Pattern page 74

Nothing says Scandi

like a red and white
Fairisle design, and this
cushion is the perfect
accessory to brighten
up your home on dark
winter days.

DALARNA
MillaMia
Yarn MillaMia Naturally
Soft Merino
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 75

Get to
t grips with
multi-colour
colour stranded
multi-col
knitting in thi
this pretty
Nordic cushion cover.
co

40

K176_P38-45_Gallery 02.indd 40 16/11/2017 15:03

 CELTIC
Christine Boggis
Yarn Cascade Spuntaneous
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 77

Our own Celtic traditions are as

interwoven with Scandinavia’s
history as these intricately twisting
cables in softest roving Merino.
SCANDI-STYLE
BLANKET
Jo Allport
Yarn Wendy Merino Wool
Chunky and Eider Chunky
Skill level Beginner
Pattern page 76

If you can knit and purl, you

can knit this gorgeously soft
snowy throw, perfect for
snuggling – why not try it today?

41

K176_P38-45_Gallery 02.indd 41 16/11/2017 15:03

 DISCRETION
Pat Menchini
Yarn Stylecraft Swift Knit
Super Chunky
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 78

This gloriously chunky quick-

knit cardigan is perfect for
keeping the man in your life
warm this winter – that is, if you
haven’t borrowed it for yourself.

ju m per?
Love this
ttern
Get the pa 175,
g
in Knittin com
ng m ag.
knitti

42

K176_P38-45_Gallery 02.indd 42 28/11/2017 11:41

 TROYER
Rico Design
Yarn Rico Essentials
Soft Merino Aran
Skill level Beginner Plus
Pattern page 80

With a chunky knit Fairisle

band and a zip at the neck, this
easy-to-wear sweater shows off
Scandi knitting at its trendy best.

TOMDER
GWAVEK
Sarah Dennis
Yarn Schachenmayr
Regia 4 Ply
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 81

Tomder Gwavek means

“winter warmth” in
Cornish, and these
beautiful cabled top-
down woollen socks will
certainly provide that.

43

K176_P38-45_Gallery 02.indd 43 16/11/2017 15:04

 PENGUIN
Maisie Smith
Yarn Debbie Bliss
Baby Cashmerino
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 83

This cute band of

penguins will brighten
up a winter’s day.

LEFT OPPOSITE
FRED THE MOUSE IDUNN
Emma Varnam Christine Boggis
Yarn Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino Yarn Rico Fashion Bisous
Skill level Intermediate crochet Skill level Beginner Plus
Pattern page 88 Pattern page 87

Give your crochet skills a workout by Idunn is a gentle, kindly Norse

making Fred Mouse and his whole
wardrobe too.
goddess who keeps the apples of
immortality that preserve the youth of
the gods of Asgard. These super-soft
mittens with a pretty horseshoe cable
design will give your hands the same
gentle care.

44

K176_P38-45_Gallery 02.indd 44 28/11/2017 11:41

 SEILAND JUMPER,
HAT AND SOCKS
Drops Design
Yarn Drops Merino Extra Fine
Skill level Intermediate
Pattern page 85

Named after the eighth-largest

island in mainland Norway, this
jumper, hat and socks set with
a pretty Fairisle design makes a
fantastic gift. And with plenty of
shades to choose from, you can
mix your own colour palette.

On
cha e bal
llen l
ge

45

K176_P38-45_Gallery 02.indd 45 16/11/2017 15:04


ASK JEANETTE
Your queries answered by Jeanette Sloan
STARER
T
LET
ALL IS NOT AS IT SEAMS
Please could you recommend a pattern for two
4 ply, old-fashioned pullovers – both a seamed
one and a seamless. The fit is really important.
The seamless one will need shaping under the
back of the neck. I intend to knit both so that
I can make a direct comparison after enjoying
Purl About Town Laura Parkinson’s column on
seamless and seamed designs in Knitting 174,
November 2017. Perhaps other knitters may
want to try this too.
Lottie Brookfroth, by email
As you haven’t expanded on what you mean
by “old-fashioned”, I’ve taken it to mean a
standard-length garment with set-in sleeves
and perhaps a little waist shaping, largely
worked in stocking stitch. Despite much
searching, I’ve not had a lot of luck finding
two patterns that you could knit and then
make direct comparisons between. What
you may find more useful is to knit a seamed
design and then re-knit it in the round. This
means you could get to grips with the basics
of the seamed pattern and make notes of
where you might need to make adjustments
to the fit, for example at the back neck,
sleeve length etc. You could then make these
changes to the second sweater when you’re
working it in the round.
The first design I’ve found is the lovely Lily
Twinset from Knitting 173, October 2017,
designed by Bronagh Miskelly. This is a classic
addition to the wardrobe, but also offers
46
K176_P46-47_Casting On & Ask Jeanette.indd 46
YOUR VIEWS
scope for adjustment to give you a short-
sleeved sweater, cardigan and, if you make
a couple of tweaks to the stitch count of the
body, a long-sleeved sweater too.
The second design I’ve found is Seguin
by Amy Herzog. It’s worked in stripes but
you could easily knit it in a single colour. It
particularly caught my eye because, rather than
using side seam shaping, Amy has used darts
to give this scoop-neck, long-sleeved sweater a
really flattering silhouette. It’s available in two
formats: as a traditionally-written PDF pattern
for 12 sizes using a single weight of yarn, and
as part of Amy’s CustomFit collection, which
offers basic sweater patterns for men, women
and children that can be knitted in any yarn
weight to any stitch tension. There are four
basic silhouettes which can be customised
to your individual measurements before the
system creates a pattern for you with a perfect
fit guaranteed. This means that once you’ve
achieved the ideal fit you could potentially
translate it for any weight of yarn in your stash.
Find out more on Ravelry or on Amy’s website,
amyherzogdesigns.com.
PHOTOGRAPH: SORAYUT/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
WEIGHED IN THE BALANCE AND
FOUND WANTING
Can you explain why some balls or hanks of
yarn weigh a couple of grammes less than
stated on the ballband? I have bought balls that
were supposed to be 50g, but have turned out
to be 48g or 49g instead. Am I being short-
changed? And do I have any kind of comeback
to the yarn company as a customer?
Iris Truss, by email
knit tingmag.com
Just a few things to remember when
converting a flat pattern to one that’s worked
in the round. First off, have a good look at
the pattern to see if it can be done! It may
be that you work in the round up to the
armholes, then work the remainder of the
garment in rows.
Whether you’re knitting all or part of the
garment in the round, make sure you knit a
new tension swatch in the round. There will
be a difference in tension, so use the round
tension from the cast on to the armholes and
the row tension for the rest of the garment.
Check to see if there are any instructions
that won’t work in the round. Remember
that on “wrong side” rounds you’ll probably
be doing the opposite to what you’d be
doing working in flat rows, so if you should
be purling on the WS row, you’ll actually be
knitting all stitches when working in rounds.
Lastly, use plenty of stitch markers to mark
where your “side seams” would occur, and
as you will be knitting the garments without
seams don’t include any selvedge stitches in
your stitch count. Good luck!
As an ex-design consultant for Rowan and
an ex-yarn shop owner, I can’t tell you
the number of times I’ve been asked this
question. I thought the best way to get a clear
explanation would be to ask someone who
is truly in the know – so I got in touch with
Graeme Knowles-Miller of Designer Yarns,
the company which distributes brands like
Debbie Bliss, Noro, Lotus Yarns and Amano.
He gave me this explanation:
“When spinning a yarn, the machine that
measures the amount into a ball or hank does
not work on weight but measures metreage.
This means that unless there is an issue such
as breakage or malfunction, each bulk-spun
item is exactly the same length. From this bulk
around 30 balls or hanks are taken and dried
in an industrial oven to remove any moisture,
the weight is taken and a composition-specific
percentage is added to take into account the
‘correct condition factor’ for pure wool (this
percentage varies for different fibres).
16/11/2017 15:06

ASK JEANETTE
STAR LETTER PRIZE
Lottie Brookfroth asked this
month’s star question. Lottie wins
a copy of Drift by Sue Batley-Kyle
and the yarn to knit girls’ cardigan
Shingle, courtesy of Yarn Stories.
If you have a question for Jeanette,
email jeanettes@thegmcgroup.com
or write to Ask Jeanette, Knitting,
GMC Publications, 86 High Street,
Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN.
Note: Jeanette regrets that she
cannot enter into any personal
correspondence with readers and
can only answer letters that are
chosen for publication in Knitting.
“This means that there is a range of
weights that are acceptable for a yarn of
the correct length, allowing for climatic
differences at point of sale. For example,
what may be 100g in the mill in Italy may
be 99g in my office here at DY HQ because
it’s quite a dry atmosphere, but may only
measure 95g in a wool shop in Arizona
where surroundings are even drier. On
average the industry standard is usually
plus or minus 5% on a yarn.”
So if you get home, set your yarn on the
kitchen scales and find it’s not as heavy as
the ballband says it should be, don’t worry
that you’ve been cheekily short-changed –
there are very technical reasons why your
hank of yarn, labelled as 100g, may be just
a little under or over that weight. The main
thing is that it doesn’t affect the inherent
quality of the yarn or the length per ball
or hank. However, it is an ideal excuse for
buying that extra hank, just in case.
K176_P46-47_Casting On & Ask Jeanette.indd 47
YOUR VIEWS
STAR
YOUR LETTERS LETTER
PRIZE
Share your thoughts through Facebook,
Twitter or email for your chance to win Rhona L Harman wins a
copy of MillaMia’s High Society
ST book, and the yarn to knit
LET AR Bo Wrist Warmers, courtesy
TER of loveknitting.com
CRAFTY BUCKET LIST
I was very fortunate to
win two complimentary
tickets from Knitting to the
recent Knitting & Stitching Show
at Alexandra Palace in London. Thank you! As I live in
Scotland, this was a perfect opportunity to visit my niece,
Vicky, who was able to come with me to the event. We
had an absolutely wonderful time and were inspired by
the variety of exhibitors and the high standard of ideas
and craftsmanship. I also had a fabulous time with my TOP-DOWN OR
great-nephew and would like to thank Knitting so much BOTTOM-UP
for the opportunity to visit a venue on my bucket list, be Knitting readers mainly are
inspired and create happy family memories. bottom-up knitters, according
Rhona L Harman, by email to our latest Facebook poll.
63% said they prefer knitting
jumpers from the bottom up,
LAUNDRY TIPS compared to 37% from the
I am delighted with my recent return subscription, back bottom up.
to Knitting. It really is the best. As a matter of fact I hardly Knitting editor Christine Boggis
ever knit from the patterns in magazines, but I like to says: “This poll has given us
keep up to date, read the articles, follow the trends and food for thought. The bulk of
see what other knitters are up to. our garments are knitted in
In Knitting 172, Autumn 2017, Purl About Town Laura pieces from the bottom up, but
Parkinson describes various ways to, or not to, wash readers are increasingly keen on
knitwear. Further to this, may I recommend chapter 6 seamless and top-down designs,
of Knitting Without Tears by Elizabeth Zimmerman. She so we’re going to be looking to
basically advises gentle hand-washing, followed by a short include more of these in the
spin. This method has liberated me to enjoy wearing future. Watch this space!”
woollen hand knits throughout the winter months Top-down own or bottom-up?
bottom up?
without them lying around damp for too long, usually
drying in less than 12 hours.
Lottie Brookfroth, by email ail
top-down
Show us what you’re knitting on Favourite Make
37%
Fridays at facebook.com/KnittingMagazine.
Twitter: @KnittingMag Pinterest: knittingmag1 bottom-up
Facebook: KnittingMagazine Instagram: knittingmagazine
Email: christine.boggis@thegmcgroup.com Post: Christine Boggis, Knitting,
g,
63%
GMC Publications, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN
knit tingmag.com 47
21/11/2017 15:37
 JEANETTE SLOAN’S A-Z OF KNITTING TECHNIQUES

Jeanette
Sloan’s
A-Z of Knitting
Techniques

H is for hems and facings Part 3: Beads and lace

Beaded hem Beaded facing

This edge adds a little bling to a basic turned-up hem by increasing
the depth and adding beads on every fourth stitch of every alternate
RS row. You could use beads in a single colour or alternate the
colours as shown to create diagonal lines.
Thread the beads on to the yarn before you cast on, then knit the
required number of rows, ending with the WS facing. Knit the next
row to create the purl fold line. Knit two rows, then place beads as
shown on chart for enough rows to match the length of the first side.
To join, fold the edge upwards, insert the tip of the needle into the
base of the cast-on edge and place the loop on the needle next to
the first stitch. Bring the yarn to the front of the work, then purl the
two stitches together. Repeat for each loop in turn along the cast-on
edge until you come to the last stitch. Starting with a purl stitch,
continue in stocking stitch as required.
Based on a basic vertical facing, this has two columns of beads
placed on every RS row to highlight the opening edge of the piece
once it’s been cast off and the edge is folded back and sewn in place.
Thread the beads on to the yarn before you cast on, then (k7,
bead 1) twice, knit to end, then purl the next row. Repeat these two
rows as required, then cast off. Block and press the piece lightly and
allow to cool. To complete, fold the facing to the WS of the work so
that the right column of beads sits on the edge of the piece. Finally,
slip stitch the facing in place on the WS of the work.

RS: knit
WS: purl

Pattern repeat

knit and bead

48 knit tingmag.com

K176_P48-49_A-Z Techniques.indd 48 16/11/2017 15:07

 JEANETTE SLOAN’S A-Z OF KNITTING TECHNIQUES

Lace contrast hem Lace contrast facing

This edge is also based on the simple turned-up hem, but contrasts
plain stocking stitch on one side with a lighter-coloured lace stitch
that allows the darker shade to show through.
The enlarged lace holes make the contrast between the two
colours much more pronounced without causing too much spread
in terms of width on the lace side of the hem. Just be sure to work
(p1, k1) into the double yarn over on the following WS to restore the
stitch count. This technique will of course work with other, more
open lace stitches, but as they spread more widthways than stocking
stitch, you’ll need to swatch and work a decrease row before starting
to work the lace pattern.
Using shade A, work 11 rows in stocking stitch, then change to
B and knit one row to create the purl fold edge. Then using shade
A and beginning at the bottom right of the chart, work rows 1-8
once, then repeat rows 1-4 and break yarn. Using A, fold the edge
upwards, insert the tip of the needle into the base of the cast-on
loop in A and place it on the needle next to the first stitch in B. Knit
the two stitches together, then repeat for each loop in turn along the
cast-on edge until you come to the last stitch.
This edge combines the basic vertical facing with intarsia to create
a lace detail that allows the darker contrast underneath to show
through, creating a delicate and subtle effect.
On the sample shown the facing is 10 stitches wide, so fi rst cast
on the required number of stitches in the main yarn (A), then
cast on 10 sts in the contrast colour (B). Now using the intarsia
technique, p10 in B then knit to the end in A. Take particular care
where the colours meet, ensuring you twist the yarns enough to
avoid any gaping holes, as this point will sit on the opening edge
of the fabric. On the next row do the opposite: purl in A and knit
in B. Now working from the chart, continue placing lace holes as
instructed for the required number of rows, then cast off. Block
and press the piece and allow to cool, then fold the facing to the
WS and slip stitch the edge in place.

RS: knit
WS: purl
RS: k2tog
WS: p2tog
RS: sl1, k1, psso
RS: knit WS: p2tog tbl
WS: purl
RS: k2tog yo
WS: p2tog RS: purl
RS: sl1, k1, psso WS: knit
WS: p2tog tbl
red
yo
RS: purl green
WS: knit
Pattern repeat

knit tingmag.com 49

K176_P48-49_A-Z Techniques.indd 49 16/11/2017 15:07

cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2
1

BIG COSY JACKET BY SIAN BROWN

3

These 2 rows form rib. Shape raglan armhole and neck

4

Work a further 8 rows in rib, inc 2 sts evenly
across last row on 2nd, 4th and 6th sizes
only. 74[80:86:92:98:104] sts.
5
2
Next row (WS): Cast off 5[6:7:8:9:10] sts,
p to end. 36[40:42:46:48:52] sts.
Next row: K1, skpo, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3.

Change to 4.5mm needles. Work 1 row.

Beg with a k row, work in st st until Rep last 2 rows 7[10:11:14:15:18] more times.
Back meas 50[51:52:53:54:55]cm 20[18:18:16:16:14] sts.
6

(19¾[20:20½:21:21½:21¾]in) from cast-on Next row (RS): K1, skpo, k to last 5 sts,
edge, ending with a WS row. k2tog, k3.
7

Shape raglan armholes Work 3 rows.

Cast off 5[6:7:8:9:10] sts at beg of next Rep last 4 rows 6[5:5:4:4:3] more times (6 sts).
3

2 rows. 64[68:72:76:80:84] sts. Next row: K3tog, k3.

8

Next row: K3, skpo, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3. Work 3 rows.
Work 1 row. Cast off rem 4 sts.
9

Rep last 2 rows 7[10:11:14:15:18] times.

48[46:48:46:48:46] sts. SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
Next row: K3, skpo, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3. With 4mm needles cast on
10

Work 3 rows. 42[46:50:54:58:62] sts.

4

Rep last 4 rows 7[6:6:5:5:4] more times. Rib row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) to end.
11

Cast off rem 32[32:34:34:36:36] sts. Rib row 2: P2, (k2, p2) to end.
These 2 rows form rib.
LEFT FRONT Work a further 8 rows.
12

With 4mm needles cast on Change to 4.5mm needles.

39[43:47:51:55:59] sts. Beg with a k row, work in st st.
5

Rib row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) to last 5 sts, Work 4 rows.
13

p2, k3. Inc row: K4, m1, k to last 4 sts, m1, k4.
Rib row 2: P3, (k2, p2) to end. Work 7 rows.
14

SIZES These 2 rows form rib. Rep last 8 rows 9 times then inc row again.
To fit: UK 8[10:12:14:16:18] Work a further 8 rows, inc 2[3:2:3:2:3] sts 64[68:72:76:80:84] sts.
81[86:91:97:102:107]cm (32[34:36:38:40:42]in) evenly across last row. 41[46:49:54:57:62] sts. Work straight until Sleeve meas 45cm (17¾in)
15

Actual measurement: Change to 4.5mm needles. from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.
6

90[98:106:113:121:128]cm Beg with a k row, work in st st until Shape raglan

16

(35½[38½:41¾:44½:47½:50½]in) Front meas 50[51:52:53:54:55]cm Cast off 5[6:7:8:9:10] sts at beg of next
Length to shoulder: 70[71:72:73:74:75]cm (19¾[20:20½:21:21½:21¾]in) from cast-on 2 rows. 54[56:58:60:62:64] sts.
(25¾[26:26½:26¾:27¼:27½]in) edge, ending with a WS row. Next row: K3, skpo, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3.
17

Sleeve length: 45cm (17¾in) Shape raglan armhole and neck Work 3 rows.
Figures in square brackets refer to larger Next row: Cast off 5[6:7:8:9:10] sts, k to end. Rep last 4 rows once more.
7
18

sizes: where there is only one set of figures 36[40:42:46:48:52] sts. 50[52:54:56:58:60] sts.
this applies to all sizes. Work 1 row. Next row: K3, skpo, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3.
Next row: K3, skpo, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Work 1 row.
19

YOU WILL NEED Work 1 row. Rep last 2 rows 19[20:21:22:23:24] times
Noro Silk Garden 45% silk, 45% mohair, Rep last 2 rows 7[10:11:14:15:18] more times. (10 sts).
10% lambswool (approx 100m per 50g) 20[18:18:16:16:14] sts. Cast off.
20

13[14:14:15:15:16] x 50g balls in shade 426 Next row: K3, skpo, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
8

1 pair each 4mm and 4.5mm needles Work 3 rows. LEFT FRONT BAND AND COLLAR
21

Stitch holders Rep last 4 rows 6[5:5:4:4:3] more times (6 sts). Mark centre back neck.
Row counter Next row: K3, sk2po. With 4mm needles, cast on
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on Work 3 rows. 30[31:32:33:34:35] sts, with RS facing pick up
22

average requirements and are approximate. Cast off rem 4 sts. and k40[41:43:44:46:47] sts to beg of neck
shaping and 96[98:99:101:102:104] sts to
23
9

TENSION RIGHT FRONT cast-on edge. 166[170:174:178:182:186] sts.

16 sts and 24 rows to 10cm over st st using With 4mm needles cast on Row 1 (WS): P2, (k2, p2) to end.
4.5mm needles. 39[43:47:51:55:59] sts. This row sets rib.
24

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary Rib row 1 (RS): K3, (p2, k2) to end. Next 2 rows: Rib 30[30:34:34:38:38], turn,
to obtain correct tension. Rib row 2: P2, (k2, p2) to last 5 sts, k2, p3. rib to end.
25

These 2 rows form rib. Next 2 rows: Rib 34[34:38:38:42:42], turn,

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 Work a further 8 rows, inc 2[3:2:3:2:3] sts rib to end.
10

evenly across last row. 41[46:49:54:57:62] sts. Next 2 rows: Rib 38[38:42:42:46:46], turn,
26

BACK Change to 4.5mm needles. rib to end.

With 4mm needles cast on Beg with a k row, work in st st until Next 2 rows: Rib 42[42:46:46:50:50], turn,
74[78:86:90:98:102] sts. Front meas 50[51:52:53:54:55]cm rib to end.
27

Rib row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) to end. (19¾[20:20½:21:21½:21¾]in) from cast-on Next 2 rows: Rib 46[46:50:50:54:54], turn,
Rib row 2: P2, (k2, p2) to end. edge, ending with a RS row. rib to end.
28
11
29

50 for pattern updates see knittingmag.com

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 50 16/11/2017 16:49

 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
Next 2 rows: Rib 50[50:54:54:58:58], turn, BELT

1
rib to end. Using 4mm needles cast on 10 sts.

3
Cont in this way, working 4 more sts on each Rib row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) twice.
turning row for a further 10 rows. Rib row 2: P2, (k2, p2) twice.

4
Work 9 rows across all sts. These 2 rows form rib.
Cast-off row: Cast off first Cont in rib until Belt meas
86[88:89:91:92:94] sts in rib, then cast off 150[155:160:165:170:175]cm

5
2
rem sts kwise. (59[61:63:65:67:69]in).
Cast off in rib.
RIGHT FRONT BAND AND COLLAR

6
With 4mm needles and RS facing, pick TO FINISH
up and k96[98:99:101:102:104] sts to beg Join raglan seams.

7
of neck shaping, 40[41:43:44:46:47] sts to Join collar seam.
top of Front, cast on 30[31:32:33:34:35] sts. Sew collar to back neck and top of sleeves.

3
166[170:174:178:182:186] sts. Join side and Sleeve seams. ●

8
Working in p2, k2 rib work as folls:
Next 2 rows: Rib 30[30:34:34:38:38], turn,

9
rib to end.
Next 2 rows: Rib 34[34:38:38:42:42], turn,
rib to end.

10
Next 2 rows: Rib 38[38:42:42:46:46], turn,

4
rib to end.

11
Next 2 rows: Rib 42[42:46:46:50:50], turn,
rib to end.
Next 2 rows: Rib 46[46:50:50:54:54], turn,

12
rib to end.
Next 2 rows: Rib 50[50:54:54:58:58], turn,

5
rib to end.

13
Cont in this way, working 4 more sts on each
turning row for a further 10 rows.

14
Work 10 rows across all sts.
Cast-off row: Cast off first
80[82:85:87:90:92] sts kwise, then cast off

15
rem sts in rib.

6
16
17
7
18
19
20
8
21
22
23
9
24
25
10
26
27
▼

Measurements are given in cm

28
11
29

for pattern updates see knittingmag.com 51

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 51 16/11/2017 16:49

cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2
1

ISBLOMMA BY BRONAGH MISKELLY

3

as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over Row 12: P1, (p2tog, yo) three times, p2tog,
4

ssp = sl1 kwise, sl1 kwise, slip sts back to LH p7, (ssp, yo) twice, p4, (ssp, yo) twice, p9, yo,
needle and p2tog tbl p2tog, p2, yo, p2tog (42 sts).
For more abbreviations see page 91 Row 13: (K2, yo, ssk) twice, k8, (yo, ssk)
5
2

twice, k4, (yo, ssk) twice, k5, (k2tog, yo)

PATTERN NOTES three times, k2tog, k1 (41 sts).
The shawl is worked in segments, using Row 14: P1, (p2tog, yo) three times, p2tog,
6

short row shaping and wraps and turns. Each p3, (ssp, yo) twice, p4, (ssp, yo) twice, p11,
WS row in each segment is shorter than the yo, p2tog, p2, yo, p2tog (40 sts).
7

previous one, to create the wedge shapes.

SHAWL
3

LACE PATTERN With scrap yarn and 3.5mm needles

8

Row 1 (RS): (K2, yo, ssk) twice, k7, (k2tog, yo) provisionally cast on 107 sts.
twice, k4, (k2tog, yo) twice, k7, (yo, ssk) three Change to main yarn.
9

times (40 sts). Set-up row (WS): P40, pm, p to end.

Row 2 (WS): P1, (yo, ssp) twice, yo, p9, Row 1 (RS): K to m, sm, work row 1 of Lace
(yo, p2tog) twice, p4, (yo, p2tog) twice, p8, Patt from chart or written instructions.
10

yo, p2tog, p2, yo, p2tog (41 sts). Row 2: Work row 2 of Lace Patt, sm, p to
4

Row 3: (K2, yo, ssk) twice, k5, (k2tog, yo) 4 sts before end, w&t.
11

twice, k4, (k2tog, yo) twice, k11, (yo, ssk) Row 3: K to m, sm, work next Lace Patt row.
twice, yo, k1 (42 sts). Row 4: Work next Lace Patt row to m, sm,
Row 4: P1, (yo, ssp) twice, yo, p4, ssp, yo, p1, p to 3 sts before wrapped st, w&t.
12

(yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog) twice, yo, p2tog, Rep rows 3 and 4 until 41 Lace Patt rows are
p6, yo, p2tog, p2, yo, p2tog (43 sts). complete (2 whole reps and 13 rows of one
5

Row 5: (K2, yo, ssk) twice, k3, ((k2tog, yo) more rep).
13

SIZE twice, k4) twice, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4, Row 42: Work next Lace Patt row to marker,
Wingspan: 170cm (67in) (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 (44 sts). sm, p to end picking up and working wraps
14

Depth: 75cm (29½in) Row 6: P1, (yo, ssp) twice, yo, p3, ssp, yo, p1, with sts (107 sts).
yo, p2tog, p1, ssp, yo, p1, yo, p2tog, p3, Rep rows 1-42 twelve more times.
YOU WILL NEED (yo, p2tog) twice, p4) twice, yo, p2tog, p2, Break yarn, leaving sts on needle.
15

Ullcentrum Lace 1 Ply 100% wool yo, p2tog (45 sts). Edging
6

(approx 600m per 100g) Row 7: (K2, yo, ssk) twice, k1, (k2tog, yo) With RS facing undo provisional cast on and
16

2 x 85g skeins in 6/1-43 Sky Turquoise twice, k4, k2tog, yo, (k2tog, yo, k3) twice, place 106 sts on circular 3.5mm needle,
3.5mm needles yo, cdd, yo, (k3, yo, ssk) twice, yo, ssk, yo, k106 sts from provisional cast on, pick up
3.5mm circular needle 200cm long k1 (46 sts). and knit 18 sts across centre of shawl, k107
17

Smooth scrap yarn Row 8: P2, (yo, p2tog) three times, p1, (p1, across rem shawl sts (231 sts).
Stitch markers yo, p2tog, p1, ssp, yo) twice, p2, (ssp, yo) Row 1 (WS): Knit.
7
18

Row counter twice, p4, (ssp, yo) twice, p5, yo, p2tog, p2, Row 2: K2, *yo, cdd, yo, k1; rep from * to last
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on yo, p2tog. 5 sts, yo, cdd, yo, k2.
average requirements and are approximate. Row 9: K2, yo, ssk, k2, (yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk) Row 3: Knit.
19

twice, yo, ssk, k2, yo, cdd, yo, k3, yo, cdd, yo, Row 4: K1, k2tog, yo, *k1, yo, cdd, yo;
TENSION k2, (k2tog, yo) three times, k2tog, k1 (45 sts). rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
22 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over st st Row 10: P1, (p2tog, yo) three times, p2tog, Row 5: Knit.
20

unblocked. p3, yo, p2tog, p1, ssp, yo, p3, (ssp, yo) twice, Cast off as foll: K1, *k1, sl2 sts back to LH
8

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary p4, (ssp, yo) twice, p7, yo, p2tog, p2, yo, needle, k2tog tbl, rep from * to end.
21

to obtain correct tension. p2tog (44 sts). Fasten off.

Row 11: (K2, yo, ssk) twice, k6, (yo, ssk)
ABBREVIATIONS twice, k4, (yo, ssk) twice, k3, yo, cdd, yo, k3, TO FINISH
22

cdd = central double decrease: sl2 sts (k2tog, yo) three times, k2tog, k1 (43 sts). Block shawl to size. Weave in ends. ●

RS: knit
23
9

WS: purl
RS: ssk
WS: ssp
24

RS: k2tog
WS: p2tog
25

RS: kfb
WS: pfb
10

grey no stitch
26

yo
RS: Central double decrease
27

WS: Central double decrease purl

28
11
29

52 for pattern updates see knittingmag.com

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 52 16/11/2017 16:49

 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
1
SILLVIE BY JO ALLPORT

3
Row 1 (RS): K1, (p1, k1) to end.

4
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
These two rows form Broken Rib and are
repeated.

5
2
Cont as set until work meas 5cm (2½in),
ending with a WS row.
Set main patt

6
Change to 4mm needles.
Row 1 (RS): K1, (p1, k1) 4 times, k to last 9 sts

7
k1, (p1, k1) 4 times.
Row 2: Purl.

3
Rep these 2 rows until work meas 36cm

8
(14¼in), ending with a WS row.
Shape armholes

9
Cast off 9 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
95[103:109:115:121:129:135:141] sts.
Working only in st st, dec 1 st at each end

10
of next 3 rows.

4
89[97:103:109:115:121:129:135] sts.

11
Work one row.
Dec 1 st at each end of next and every
RS row to 87[93:97:101:105:109:111:115]

12
sts. Cont straight in st st until work
meas 55[56:57:58:59:60:61:61]cm

5
(21¾[22:22½:22¾:23¼:23¾:24:24]in),

13
SIZES measured from cast-on edge and ending
To fit: UK size 8[10:12:14:16:18:20:22] with a WS row.

14
81[86:91:97:102:107:112:117]cm Shape shoulders
(32[34:36:38:40:42:44:46]in) Cast off 5[6:6:7:7:7:7:8] sts at beg of next
Actual measurement: 2[6:4:8:6:2:2:6] rows.

15
93[99:105:111:117:123:129:134]cm 77[57:73:45:63:95:97:67] sts.

6
(36¾[39:41½:43¾:46:48¼:50½:53]in) Cast off 6[7:7:0:8:8:8:9] sts at beg of next

16
Length to shoulder: 6[2:4:0:2:6:6:2] rows.
55[56:57:58:59:60:61:61]cm 41[43:45:45:47:47:49:49] sts.
(21¾[22:22½:22¾:23¼:23¾:24:24]in) Put rem sts on a holder.

17
Sleeve length: 43[46:46:46:46:47:47:48]cm
(17[18:18:18:18:18½:18½:19]in) FRONT

Figures in square brackets refer to larger
sizes: where there is only one set of figures
this applies to all sizes.
7
18
Work as for Back until work meas 21cm
(8¼in), ending with a WS row.
Cont in patt as set and work foll

19
buttonhole row:
YOU WILL NEED Buttonhole row (RS): K1, p1, k1, **wyif, sl1p
Sublime Superfine Alpaca DK 100% alpaca to RH needle, take yarn to back, (sl1p to RH

20
(approx 120m per 50g) needle, pass first slipped st over next slipped

8
10[10:11:11:12:12:13:13] x 50g balls in 430 Tusk st) twice more, move last st back to LH needle.

21
3.25mm and 4mm needles Turn work, using a knitted or cable method,
2 stitch holders cast on 4 sts, turn work again. Wyib, sl first st
2 x 2.5cm buttons to RH needle, pass the extra cast-on st over
22
Row counter this st**, p1, k97[105:111:117:123:131:137:143] sts,
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on p1, k1, work ** to ** as before, p1, k1.
23
9

average requirements and are approximate. 113[121:127:133:139:147:153:159] sts.

Cont in patt as set (first and last 9 sts in
TENSION Broken Rib and rem sts in st st) until work
24

22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over st st using meas 36cm (14¼in), ending with a WS row.
4mm needles. Shape armholes
25

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary Cast off 9 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
to obtain correct tension. 95[103:109:115:121:129:135:141] sts.
10

Working only in st st, dec 1 st at each end of

26

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 next 3 rows.

89[97:103:109:115:121:129:135] sts.
BACK Work one row.
27

With 3.25mm needles, cast on Dec 1 st at each end of next and every RS
▼

113[121:127:133:139:147:153:159] sts. row to 87[93:97:101:105:109:111:115] sts.

28
11
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Cont straight in st st until work Next row (inc) (RS): K1, m1, k to last st, m1,
1

meas 47[48:49:50:51:52:53:53]cm k1. 49[49:51:51:53:53:55:55] sts.

3

(18½[19:19¼:19¾:20:20½:21:21]in), measured Inc as set on every foll 6[6:6:4:4:4:4:4]th row

from cast-on edge and ending with a WS row. to 77[81:85:87:91:93:95:99] sts.
Shape left neck and shoulder
4

Work straight until Sleeve meas

Next row: Patt 28[30:31:33:34:36:36:38] sts, 43[46:46:46:46:47:47:48]cm
turn, put rem sts on a holder. (17[18:18:18:18:18½:18½:19]in), ending with
5
2

Work one row. a WS row.

Dec 1 st at neck edge of every RS row to Cast off.
23[25:26:28:29:31:31:33] sts.
6

Work straight until Front meas same as Back NECKBAND

to shoulder, ending with a WS row. Sew left shoulder seam. With 3.25mm
7

Cast off 5[6:6:7:7:7:7:8] sts at beg of next needles, RS facing and starting at Back,
1[3:2:4:3:1:1:3] RS rows. k41[43:45:45:47:47:49:49] sts from Back stitch
3

Cast off 6[7:7:0:8:8:8:9] sts at beg of next holder, pick up and k18 sts along left Front
8

3[1:2:0:1:3:3:1] RS rows. neck, k31[33:35:35:37:37:39:39] sts from Front

Shape right neck and shoulder holder, pick up and k18 sts along right Front
9

With RS facing leave centre neck. 108[112:116:116:120:120:124:124] sts.

31[33:35:35:37:37:39:39] sts on a holder and Next row: Purl.
work with rem 28[30:31:33:34:36:36:38] sts. Work in Broken Rib patt as folls:
10

Join yarn at neck edge, patt to end. Row 1 (RS): (K1, p1) to end.
4

Next row (WS): Patt to end. Row 2: Purl.

11

Dec 1 st at beg (neck edge) of each RS row Rep these 2 rows until Neckband meas 12cm
to 23[25:26:28:29:31:31:33] sts. (4¾in), ending with a RS row.
Work straight until Front meas same as Back Cast off.
12

to shoulder, ending with a RS row. Sew right shoulder and neckline.

Cast off 5[6:6:7:7:7:7:8] sts at beg of next
5

1[3:2:4:3:1:1:3] WS rows. 18[7:14:0:8:24:24:9] sts. TO FINISH

13

Cast off 6[7:7:0:8:8:8:9] sts at beg of next Taking the body, overlap Broken Rib
3[1:2:0:1:3:3:1] WS rows. side sections on Front and Back so that
14

buttonhole is on top of Broken Rib section,

SLEEVES (MAKE 2) and Broken Rib sections are double. Insert
With 3.25mm needles, cast on Sleeve cap and sew in place.
15

47[47:49:49:51:51:53:53] sts. Sew button to back Broken Rib section so

6

Work in Broken Rib as for Back for 5cm that it fastens with the buttonhole.
16

(2½in), ending with a WS row. Rep for other side and Sleeve. Sew Sleeve
Change to 4mm needles and beg with a k seams. Block lightly if required.
row, cont in st st. Weave in ends. See ball band for further
17

Work 4 rows. care instructions. ●

7
18
19
20
8
21
22
23
9
24
25
10
26
27

Measurements are given in cm

28
11
29

54 for pattern updates see knittingmag.com

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 54 16/11/2017 16:49

 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
Quick

2
technique by

1
KNITTING MASTERCLASS BUTTONHOLES Jo Allport

3
Buttonholes can be key to finishing off knitted designs, and they are such a useful technique to learn. As usual with

4
knitting, there are many different ways of creating buttonholes and I have tried out most of them. This version is my favourite:
it creates a firm buttonhole that has many uses. I use it to create shaping for handles for bags and purses, and for thumbholes in fingerless
mitts. The possibilities are endless…

5
2
6
7
3
8
9
1 2 3

10
4
1. On row 1, a RS row, after working the first 2. Slip the first stitch pwise from the LH 3. Now take the yarn to the back of your

11
three stitches (k1, p1, k1) for the panel, bring needle to the RH needle. You will see the work, round the slipped st that is the last st
the yarn to the front of your work. yarn still at the front of your work between on the RH needle.
the last 2 sts on the RH needle.

12
5
13
14
15
6
16
4 5 6 7

17
4. Slip the first stitch on the LH 5. Slip the next st on LH needle 6. Turn your work so the WS is 7. Still with the WS facing, cast
needle to the RH needle, then to RH then pass second st over facing. The yarn is at the front. on 4 sts. The cable cast-on

pass second stitch on RH needle
(the first slipped stitch) over it.
it. Rep once more, then pass the
first stitch on the RH needle to
the LH needle. This casts off 3
7
18
Take the yarn back, ready to cast method is shown here. Then
on 4 sts using a cable or knitted turn your work.
cast-on technique, to replace the

19
sts. You will see a gap between stitches that have been cast off.
the first 3 sts and the sts on
the LH needle. This shows the

20
bottom edge of the buttonhole.

8
21
22
23
9
24

8 9 10 11
25
10

8. With the RS facing, here are 9. Next pass the first stitch on 10. Pass the last cast-on st on 11. This image shows the
26

the 4 sts on your RH needle, the LH needle to the RH needle. the RH needle over the stitch finished buttonhole.
with the buttonhole edge that has just been slipped to
shown and the yarn at the back. the RH needle to close the
27

buttonhole. Then p1, k1 to finish

▼

off the panel.

28
11
29

for pattern updates see knittingmag.com 55

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 55 16/11/2017 16:49

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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
1
RUSSELL BY SARAH HAZELL

3
cast off knitwise on the WS of the work. Row 45: Knit.

4
Rows 46-72: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1.
SECTION 1 Row 73: In E, k1, (sl2 wyib, k2) to last st, k1.
Using B, cast on 82 sts. Row 74: K1, (p2, sl2 wyif) to last st, k1.

5
2
Row 1 (RS): K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1. Row 75: Knit.
Rows 2-4: As row 1. Rows 76-90: K1, (p2, k2) to last st, k1.
Row 5: In C, k1, (sl2 wyib, k2) to last st, k1. Row 91: In A, k1, (k2, sl2 wyib) to last st, k1.

6
Row 6: K1, (p2, sl2 wyif) to last st, k1. Row 92: K1, (sl2 wyif, p2) to last st, k1.
Row 7: Knit. Row 93: Knit.

7
Rows 8-18: K1, (p2, k2) to last st, k1. Rows 95-132: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1.
Row 19: In D, k1, (k2, sl2 wyib) to last st, k1. Row 133: In B, k1, (sl2 wyib, k2) to last st, k1.

3
Row 20: K1, (sl2 wyif, p2) to last st, k1. Row 134: K1, (p2, sl2 wyif) to last st, k1.

8
Row 21: Knit. Row 135: Knit.
Rows 22-28: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1. Rows 136-162: K1, (p2, k2) to last st, k1.

9
Row 29: In E, k1, (sl2 wyib, k2) to last st, k1. Row 163: In C, k1, (k2, sl2 wyib) to last st, k1.
Row 30: K1, (p2, sl2 wyif) to last st, k1. Row 164: K1, (sl2 wyif, p2) to last st, k1.
Row 31: Knit. Row 165: Knit.

10
Rows 32-34: K1, (p2, k2) to last st, k1. Rows 166-180: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1.

4
Row 35: In A, k1, (k2, sl2 wyib) to last st, k1. Rows 181-222: As rows 1-42 in D.

11
Row 36: K1, (sl2 wyif, p2) to last st, k1. Rows 223-252: As rows 43-72 in E.
Row 37: Knit. Rows 253-270: As rows 73-90 in A.
Rows 38-48: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1. Rows 271-312: As rows 91-132 in B.

12
Row 49: In B, k1, (sl2 wyib, k2) to last st, k1. Rows 313-342: As rows 133-162 in C.
Row 50: K1, (p2, sl2 wyif) to last st, k1. Rows 343-360: As rows 163-180 in D.

5
Row 51: Knit. Rows 361-402: As rows 1-42 in E.

13
SIZE Rows 52-58: K1, (p2, k2) to last st, k1. Rows 403-432: As rows 43-72 in A.
220 x 34cm (86½ x 13½in) Row 59: In C, k1, (k2, sl2 wyib) to last st, k1.

14
Row 60: K1, (sl2 wyif, p2) to last st, k1. SECTION 3
YOU WILL NEED Row 61: Knit. Row 1 (RS): In B, k1, (sl2 wyib, k2) to last st,
Erika Knight British Blue 100 Rows 62-64: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1. k1.

15
100% Pure British Bluefaced Leicester Wool Rows 65-78: As rows 5-18 in D. Row 2: K1, (p2, sl2 wyif) to last st, k1.

6
(approx 220m per 100g) Rows 79-88: As rows 19-28 in E. Row 3: Knit.

16
2 x 100g skeins in 605 French (A) Rows 89-94: As rows 29-34 in A. Rows 4-6: K1, (p2, k2) to last st, k1.
1 x 100g skein in 602 Regent’s Park (B) Rows 95-108: As rows 35-48 in B. Row 7: In C, k1, (k2, sl2 wyib) to last st, k1.
1 x 100g skein in 603 Kanoko (C) Rows 109-118: As rows 49-58 in C. Row 8: K1, (sl2 wyif, p2) to last st, k1.

17
1 x 100g skein in 607 Cloak (D) Rows 119-124: As rows 59-64 in D. Row 9: Knit.
1 x 100g skein in 604 Mrs Dalloway (E) Rows 125-138: As rows 5-18 in E. Rows 10-12: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1.

7
18
4mm needles Rows 139-148: As rows 19-28 in A. Continue in patt as set in the following
3.5mm crochet hook Rows 149-154: As rows 29-34 in B. stripe sequence.
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on Rows 1-6: D.

19
average requirements and are approximate. SECTION 2 Rows 7-12: E.
Row 1: In C, k1, (sl2 wyib, k2) to last st, k1. Rows 1-6: A.
TENSION Row 2: K1, (p2, sl2 wyif) to last st, k1. Rows 7-12: B.

20
26 sts and 26 rows to 10cm over pattern. Row 3: Knit. Rows 1-6: C.

8
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to Rows 4-42: K1, (p2, k2) to last st, k1. Rows 7-12: D.

21
obtain correct tension. Row 43: In D, k1, (k2, sl2 wyib) to last st, k1. Rows 1-6: E.
▼
Row 44: K1, (sl2 wyif, p2) to last st, k1. Rows 7-12: A.
ABBREVIATIONS 22
Sl2 wyib = slip 2 sts pwise, with yarn to the
back of the work.
23
9

Sl2 wyif = slip 2 sts pwise, with yarn to the

front of the work.
FPdc = front post double crochet: insert
24

hook from front to back and then to front

around the next post, continue to work dc in
25

usual way.
10

PATTERN NOTES
26

The scarf is worked in three colour-block

sections. It has a crocheted edging.
Alternatively, you could pick up sts evenly
27

along row end edges, with the RS of the

work facing, knit a further 4 rows and then
28
11
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Rows 1-6: B.
1

Rows 7-12: C. MORNING GLORY BY DESIGNETTE

3

Rows 1-6: D.
Rows 7-12: A. 1[2:2] x 50g balls in 80 Baby Blue (I)
4

Rows 1-5: B. 1[2:2] x 50g balls in 502 Peach (J)

Cast off in pattern on WS of work. 2[3:3] x 50g balls in 400 Sandstone (K)
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 205 Eggplant (L)
5

TO FINISH
2

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 837 Linen (M)

Weave in any loose ends and block 1[2:2] x 50g balls in 155 Mauve (N)
according to ball band instructions. 1[2:2] x 50g balls in 417 Colonial Blue (O)
6

AND (for both)

EDGING DesignEtte Andrea di Bonaiuto 70% super
7

With RS of work facing and A, work a kid mohair, 30% silk (approx 220m per 25g)
standing dc using a 3.5mm hook. 1[2:2] x 25g balls in Dark Red (P)
3

Row 1: Work a row of dc evenly along row 1[2:2] x 25g balls in White (Q)
8

end edge. Fasten off. 3.5mm circular needles 40cm and 80cm long
Row 2: Join A to first dc on row 1 as before, Stitch marker
9

1dc in every st to end of row, turn. 85[100:120]cm length of 2cm (¾in) satin ribbon
Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in Row counter
every st to end of row, turn. Note: Yarn amounts given are based on
10

Row 4: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc into average requirements and are approximate.
4

back loop only of every st to end of row.

TENSION
11

Fasten off.
Repeat for other row-end edge. ● 27 sts and 31 rows to 10cm over st st in patt
using 3.5mm needles.
12

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary

to obtain correct tension.
5

SIZES
13

To fit: S-M[L-XL:2XL-3XL] ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91

Actual measurement: 89[118:148]cm
14

(35[46½:58¼]in) PATTERN NOTE

Length to shoulder: 64cm (25¼in) This jumper is knitted in a traditional
Sleeve length: 50cm (19¾in) Norwegian technique, with the Body worked
15

Figures in square brackets refer to larger in the round, then divided a few centimetres
6

sizes: where there is only one set of figures from the top and decreases worked towards
16

this applies to all sizes. the neckline. The armholes are cut by
steeking. Unless you are very familiar with
YOU WILL NEED steeking, we would advise watching a tutorial
17

DesignEtte Botticelli 70% extra fine online before following the instructions below.
Merino, 30% silk (approx 175m per 50g) Charts
7
18

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 100 White (A) When working from Charts, after rib
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 849 Desert Sand (B) sections knit all rows reading Chart from R
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 808 Sangria (C) to L. After body is divided for neck, k all RS
19

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 847 Tea Rose (D) (odd) rows reading Chart from R to L and p
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 04 Graphite (E) all WS (even) rows reading Chart from L to R.
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 765 Lapis (F) Coloured boxes show pattern repeats in
20

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 846 Deep Cerise (G) each chart. Charts 1, 3, 5 and 7 are worked
8

2[3:3] x 50g balls in 170 Cerulean (H) over 40 sts repeated 6[8:10] times around.
21

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 80 Baby Blue (I) The other charts are worked over 6 sts: for
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 502 Peach (J) size 1 work patt rep 40 times around; for
2[3:3] x 50g balls in 718 Sandstone (K) sizes 2 and 3 work first 2 sts of Chart then
22

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 572 Eggplant (L) work 6-st patt rep 53[66] times around,
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 831 Linen (M) working 2 extra sts at end on size 3 only.
23
9

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 155 Mauve (N)

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 417 Colonial Blue (O) BODY
OR Using longer 3.5mm needle and H, cast on
24

DesignEtte Naturino 100% extra fine 240[320:400] sts, join to a rnd being careful
Merino, (approx 175m per 50g) not to twist sts, pm to denote start of rnd.
25

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 100 White (A) Rnds 1-12: Working in k1, p1 rib, work first
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 300 Desert Sand (B) 12 rows of Body Chart, working four rows
10

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 808 Sangria (C) each in H, C and E.

26

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 145 Tea Rose (D) Rnds 13-42: Work according to Chart 1,
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 800 Graphite (E) using K, C, J, B and A.
1[2:2] x 50g balls in 765 Lapis (F) Rnds 43-57: Work according to Chart 2,
27

1[2:2] x 50g balls in 287 Deep Cerise (G) using H and I, C and G, L and D.
▼

2[3:3] x 50g balls in 722 Cerulean (H) Rnds 58-90: Work according to Chart 3,
28
11
29

58 for pattern updates see knittingmag.com

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 58 27/11/2017 15:52

 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
Sleeve Chart Body Chart

1
3
Sleeve 2XL/3XL
Sleeve L/XL
Sleeve S/M

4
Pattern repeat

5
2
6
7
3
8
9
10
4
11
12
5
13
14
15
6
16
17
7
18
19
20
8
21
22
23
9

Key
24

Yarn Stitches
White (A) Cerulean (H) RS: k, WS: p
25

Desert Sand (B) Baby Blue (I) RS: p, WS: k

10

Sangria (C) Peach (J)

26

Tea Rose (D) Sandstone (K)

Graphite (E) Eggplant (L)
Lapis (F) Linen (M)
27

Deep Cerise (G) Mauve (N)

Colonial Blue (O)
28
11
29

for pattern updates see knittingmag.com 59

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 59 27/11/2017 15:52

cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

using E, H, K, B and A. SLEEVES (MAKE 2) Rows 63-64: M.

1

Rnds 91-105: Work according to Chart 4, Using 3.5mm needles and H, cast on Row 65: L.
3

using E and I, C and M, G and N. 44[50:58] sts. Rows 66-67: K.

Rnds 106-135: Work according to Chart 5, Rows 1-12: Working in k1, p1 rib, work first Row 68: D.
4

using K, L, J, B and A. 12 rows of Sleeve Chart, working four rows Row 69: G.
Rnds 136-150: Work according to Chart 6, each in H, C and E. Rows 70-71: I.
using O and I, C and M, L and D. Beg with a k row, cont in st st working in Rows 72-73: Q.
5
2

Rnds 151-183: Work according to Chart 7, stripes as folls while AT THE SAME TIME inc Row 74: E.
using K, H, J, B and A. 1 st at each end of every 6th row 22 times Rows 75-76: P.
Divide for neck [5th row 9 times and 6th row 15 times: 5th row Row 77: F.
6

Rnd 184: Work 39[59:79] sts according to 25 times and 4th row 3 times] 88[98:114] sts. Rows 78-79: K.
Chart 8, using E, cast off 42 sts, work 159 Rows 13-15: Q. Row 80: N.
7

[219:279] sts. Rows 16-17: O. Row 81: L.

Left front Rows 18-19: I. Rows 82-83: G.
3

Rows 185-186: Work 39[59:79] sts according Rows 20-21: C. Rows 84-85: K.
8

to Chart 8, using E and I, turn, cast off 4 sts, Row 22: G. Row 86: B.
p35[55:75]. Rows 23-24: L. Row 87: D.
9

Rows 186-188: Keeping patt correct, Rows 25-26: M. Row 88: Q.

k35[55:75], turn, cast off 4 sts, p31[51:71], turn, Rows 27-28: E. Rows 89-90: E.
k31[51:71]. Row 29: H. Rows 91-92: I.
10

Rows 189-193: Using C and M work according Rows 30-32: J. Rows 93-94: P.
4

to Chart 8, cast off 4 sts, p27[47:67], turn, k to Row 33: Q. Rows 95-96: Q.
11

end, turn, cast off 2 sts, p25[45:65]. Row 34: N. Rows 97-98: L.
Rows 194-198: Work according to Chart 8, Row 35: L. Row 99: K.
using G and N. Rows 36-37: Q. Row 100: I.
12

Cast off. Rows 38-39: O. Row 101: H.

Right front and back Rows 40-41: C. Row 102: D.
5

Attach yarn to WS of work. Row 42: D. Rows 103-104: G.

13

Rows 185-186: Work 159 [179:279] sts Rows 43-45: K. Row 105: F.
according to Chart 8, using E and I, turn, cast Row 46: I. Rows 106-107: M.
14

off 4 sts, p155[175:275]. Rows 47-48: L. Rows 108-110: J.

Rows 186-188: Keeping patt correct, Row 49: G. Rows 111-112: O.
k155[175:275], turn, cast off 4 sts, p151[171:271], Row 50: J. Row 113: Q.
15

turn, k151[171:271]. Row 51: H. Rows 114-116: P.

6

Rows 189-193: Using C and M work according Rows 52-53: E. Rows 117-118: I.
16

to Chart 8, cast off 4 sts, p147[167:267], turn, Row 54: Q. Row 119: E.
knit, turn, cast off 2 sts, p145[165:265]. Rows 55-56: N. Rows 120-121: N.
Rows 194-198: Work according to Chart 8, Rows 57-59: P. Rows 122-124: J.
17

using G and N. Rows 60-61: O. Row 125: K.

Cast off. Row 62: Q. Row 126: G.
7
18

Row 127: D.
Rows 128-129: L.
Rows 130-131: J.
19

Row 132: F.
Rows 133-134: O.
Rows 135-136: P.
20

Rows 137-138: M.
8

Rows 139-140: I.
21

Rows 141-142: N.
Row 143: E.
Rows 144-145: G.
22

Rows 146-147: D.
Row 148: J.
23
9

Row 149: K.
Rows 150-151: L.
Rows 152-154: Q. Start shaping Sleeve on
24

Row 154 as below **

Sleeve Cap
25

Work stripes in st st and pattern according

to Chart C, as foll:
10

Rows 155-159: O and I.

26

Rows 160-164: C and M.

Rows 165-169: L and D.
Rows 170-171: K.
27

Rows 172-173: J.
Measurements are given in cm Rows 174-175: G.
28
11
29

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K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 60 22/11/2017 16:01

 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
Rows 176-177: Q.

1
Row 178: I. STARRY NIGHT

3
Row 179: E.
Rows 180-181: M.
BY PAT STRONG

4
Rows 182-183: N.
Rows 184 to end: Q.
**At the same time cast off at each end of

5
2
row for Sleeve shaping as folls:
Row 154 (RS): 4[5:6] sts.
Row 156: 3[3:5] sts.

6
Row 158: 2[3:3] sts.
Row 160: 1[2:2] sts.

7
Row 162: 1[1:2] sts.
Row 164: 1[1:2] sts.

3
Rows 166, 168, 170 and 172: 1 st.

8
Rows 174 and 176: 2[2:1] sts.
Rows 178, 180 and 182: 2 sts.

9
Row 184: 3[2:2] sts.
Row 186: 4[3:2] sts.
Row 188: 4[4:3] sts.

10
Row 190: 14[4:4] sts.

4
Row 192: 0[14:5] sts.

11
Row 194: 0[0:20] sts.

TO FINISH

12
Block work.
Steeking

5
Mark openings evenly on both sides from top

13
of the Body part to the armholes, measuring
down 21[24:27]cm (8¼[9½:10¾]in). Using

14
contrast yarn baste the lines in between first SIZES
and last sts of rnd and after 120[160:200] sts. To fit: UK 10[12:14:16:18:20:22]
Using a sewing machine zigzag on both 86[91:97:102:107:112:117:122]cm

15
sides of the basted thread with 1 st held free (34[36:38:40:42:44:46:48]in)

6
on both sides of the marking. Sew a straight Actual measurement:

16
zigzag seam and a short curved line where 94[98:102:106:110:114:120:126]cm
the baste thread ends. Turn the work to sew (37[38½:40¼:41¾:43¼:44¾:47¼:49½]in)
from bottom to top and continue along Length to back neck:

17
other side. It is a good idea to keep a piece 67[67:67:69:69:71:71:71]cm
of newspaper on the back of your knitted (26¼[26¼:26¼:27¼:27¼:28:28:28]in)

7
18
fabric when sewing. Sleeve length: 48[48:48:50:50:51:51:51]cm
When the sewing is done, make an extra (19[19:19:19¾:19¾:20:20:20]in)
check that the zigzag is complete, with no Figures in square brackets refer to larger

19
openings for any knitted stitches to run, sizes: where there is only one set of figures
then use scissors to cut along the basted this applies to all sizes.
line. Remove all baste threads.

20
Sewing up YOU WILL NEED

8
Join shoulder seams. Sew Sleeve cap sides Debbie Bliss Fine Donegal 95% wool,

21
into armholes and pin top of cap to shoulder 5% cashmere (approx 380m per 100g)
seam. Align seams, making sure that Pattern 3[3:4:4:4:5:5:5] x 100g balls in shade 54031 (A)
C of Body matches Pattern C on Sleeve. 1 x 100g ball in shade 54001 (B)
22
Sew Sleeves accurately to fit. Sew remainder 3.5mm circular needle 80-100cm long
of Sleeve seam. Sew binding on to armhole Set of 3.5mm dpns
23
9

seams. Use a 2cm (¾in) satin ribbon to OR for magic loop method use 2 x 3.5mm
fold around and sew from both sides using circular needles 150cm long
whipstitch. 4 stitch holders
24

Neckband Stitch markers

Using 3.5mm needle and A, with RS facing, Row counter
25

beginning at shoulder edge, pick up 85 sts Note: Yarn amounts given are based on
from front neck edge and 75 sts from back average requirements and are approximate.
10

neck edge (162 sts). If adjusting the length of the garment, more
26

Work 6 rnds in k2, p2 rib. yarn will be needed.

Cast off. ●
TENSION
27

23 sts and 35 rows to 10cm over st st using

▼

3.5mm needles.
28
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Due to the textured nature of the yarn it is Work 9 rnds in st st. Knit 2[2:2:3:3:4:4:4] rnds, dec 2[6:8:0:6:10:4:10]
1

advisable to work the tension square several Next rnd (inc): K2, kfb, k to last 3 sts, kfb, sts evenly on last rnd.
3

times and take an average measurement. k2. 192[192:204:216:216:216:240:252] sts.

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to Rep these last 10 rnds to Joining in B, work Chart 2, rep 12-st patt
4

obtain correct tension. 76[76:80:80:84:84:92:96] sts. across all sts, stranding yarn loosely
Cont without shaping until Sleeve across WS.
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 meas 48[48:48:50:50:51:51:51]cm Knit 2 rnds.
5
2

(19[19:19:19¾:19¾:20:20:20]in). Dec rnd 4: (K4, k2tog)

PATTERN NOTE Next rnd: K10[10:10:10:12:12:12:12] sts, place 32[32:34:36:36:36:40:42] times.
When working two-colour Fairisle pattern last 20[20:20:20:24:24:24:24] sts on a holder. 160[160:170:180:180:180:200:210] sts.
6

over Yoke, be sure not to strand yarn too Break yarn. Knit 8 rnds.
tightly to avoid puckering. Dec rnd 5: (K3, k2tog) to m.
7

YOKE 32[32:34:36:36:36:40:42] sts dec’d.

BODY Return to Body section and continue with 128[128:136:144:144:144:160:168] sts.
3

With A and 3.5mm circular needle cast on attached yarn as foll: pm (denotes start of Knit 2 rnds, dec 2[2:4:0:0:0:4:0] sts evenly
8

220[228:240:248:260:268:280:296] sts, join to round), k56[56:60:60:60:60:68:72] sts across across last rnd.
work in the round, pm. left Sleeve, k90[94:100:104:106:110:116:124] 126[126:132:144:144:144:156:168] sts.
9

Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end. sts across front, k56[56:60:60:60:60:68:72] sts Joining in B, work Chart 1, rep 6-st patt across
Work 13 more rnds in rib. across right Sleeve, k to end of rnd. all sts, stranding yarn loosely across WS.
Cont in st st (knit every rnd) until 292[300:320:328:332:340:368:392] sts. Knit 1 rnd, dec 2[2:0:0:0:0:0:0] sts evenly
10

work meas 43[43:43:44:44:45:45:45]cm Work 12[12:12:14:14:16:16:16] rnds across all across. 124[124:132:144:144:144:156:168] sts.
4

(17[17:17:17¼:17¼:17¾:17¾:17¾]in) ending sts, dec 4[3:5:4:2:7:8:2] sts evenly on last rnd. Cont straight in A until Yoke
11

at m. 288[297:315:324:330:333:360:390] sts. meas 24[24:24:25:25:26:26:26]cm

Adjust length here if necessary. Dec rnd 1: (K7[7:7:7:7:8:8:8], k2tog) to last (9½[9½:9½:9¾:9¾:10¼:10¼:10¼]in).
Next rnd: K10[10:10:10:12:12:12:12], place last 18[0:18:0:6:3:0:0] sts, k to m. Work 8 rnds in rib as for Body.
12

20[20:20:20:24:24:24:24] sts on a holder, k 30[33:33:36:36:33:36:39] sts dec’d. Cast off loosely as folls: (k2tog, pass st back
next 90[94:100:104:106:110:116:124] sts, work 258[264:282:288:294:300:324:351] sts. to LH needle) to last st, fasten off.
5

next 20[20:20:20:24:24:24:24] sts and place Joining in B and dec an extra 3 sts on first
13

these on a holder, k to next gap. round on largest size only, work Chart 1, rep TO FINISH
Do not break yarn, put work to one side. 6-st patt across all sts, stranding yarn loosely Sew in ends.
14

across WS. Graft underarm sts. Block using

SLEEVES (MAKE 2) Knit [2:2:3:3:4:4:4] rnds. manufacturer’s instructions as a guide. ●
With A and 3.5mm circular needle cast on 258[264:282:288:294:300:324:348] sts.
15

60[60:60:64:64:68:68:68] sts, join to work in Dec rnd 2: (K6, k2tog) to last 2[0:2:0:6:4:4:4]
6

rnds, pm. sts, k to m. 32[33:35:36:36:37:40:43] sts dec’d.

16

Work 14 rnds in rib as given for Body. 226[231:247:252:258:263:284:305] sts.

Work 5 rnds in st st. Knit 8 rnds.
Next rnd (inc): K2, kfb, k to last 3 sts, Dec rnd 3: (K5, k2tog) to last 2[0:2:0:6:4:4:4]
17

kfb, k2. sts, k to m. Chart 1

Rep these last 6 rnds to 32[33:35:36:36:37:40:43] sts dec’d.
7
18

68[68:70:70:74:74:80:80] sts. 194[198:212:216:222:226:244:262] sts.

19
20
8
21

Chart 2
22
23
9
24
25
10
26
27

Measurements are given in cm

28
11
29

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K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 62 16/11/2017 16:50

 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
1
FANØ BY LOUISA HARDING

3
Chart A rnd 3: *K2A, k1B, k1A, k1B, k1A;

4
rep from * to end, sm.
Chart A rnd 4: *K3A, k1B, k2A; rep from
* to end, sm.

5
2
Chart A rnd 5: Knit in A to end, sm.
Chart A rnd 6: Knit in B to end, sm.
Chart A rnd 7: *K1B, k1A; rep from * to end,

6
sm.
Chart A rnd 8: As rnd 6.

7
Chart A rnd 9: As rnd 5.
Chart A rnd 10: As rnd 4.

3
Chart A rnd 11: As rnd 3.

8
Chart A rnd 12: As rnd 2.
Chart A rnd 13: As rnd 1.

9
Next rnd: Knit in A to end, sm.
Next rnd (dec): Using A *k15, k2tog; rep
from * to end, sm (192 sts).

10
Next rnd: Knit in B to end, sm.

4
Next rnd: *K1A, k1B; rep from * to end, sm.

11
Next rnd: Knit in A to end, sm.
Set Chart B
Working from Chart B and starting at rnd 1,

12
work 13 rnds in stranded knitting from chart
or written instructions as foll:

5
SIZE Chart B rnd 1: *K2A, k1B, (k3A, k1B) twice,

13
Approx: 28cm (11in) deep x 98cm (38½in) k1A; rep from * to end, sm.
at hem circumference Chart B rnd 2: *K5A, k1B, k1A, k1B, k4A;

14
rep from * to end, sm.
YOU WILL NEED Chart B rnd 3: *K1B, k3A; rep from * to end,
Yarntelier Cashmere Gilli 100% cashmere sm.

15
(approx 425m per 50g) Chart B rnd 4: *K2B, k1A, k1B, (k2A, k1B)

6
1 x 50g ball in 512 Crowedge (A) twice, k1A, k1B; rep from * to end, sm.

16
1 x 50g ball in 507 Swanbank (B) Chart B rnd 5: *K1B, k1A, k1B, k2A, k3B,
5mm circular knitting needle 80cm long k2A, k1B, k1A; rep from * to end, sm.
1 stitch marker Chart B rnd 6: *(K1A, k1B) twice, (k2A, k1B)

17
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on twice, k1A, k1B; rep from * to end, sm.
average requirements and are approximate. Chart B rnd 7: *K1B, k1A, k3B, k3A, k3B,

7
18
k1A; rep from * to end, sm.
TENSION Chart B rnd 8: As rnd 6.
22 sts and 26 rows to 10cm over Fairisle patt. Chart B rnd 9: As rnd 5.

19
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary Chart B rnd 10: As rnd 4.
to obtain correct tension. Chart B rnd 11: As rnd 3.
Chart B rnd 12: As rnd 2.

20
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 Chart B rnd 13: As rnd 1.

8
Next rnd: Knit in A to end, sm.

21
CAPELET Next rnd: *K1A, k1B; rep from * to end, sm.
Cast on 216 sts in A. Pm to mark the beg/ Next rnd: Knit in B to end, sm.
end of each rnd. Next rnd (dec): Using A *k14, k2tog; rep
22
Work 8 rnds in 2-colour rib as foll: from * to end, sm (180 sts).
Rib rnd 1: *P3A, k3B; rep from * to end, sm. Set Chart C
23
9

This rnd sets the rib pattern, work a further Working from Chart C and starting at rnd 1,
7 rnds in rib. work 9 rnds in stranded knitting from chart
Next rnd (dec): Using A, *k16, k2tog; or written instructions as foll:
24

rep from * to end, sm (204 sts). Chart C rnd 1: *K2A, k1B, k1A; rep from * to
Next rnd: Using A, knit, sm. end, sm.
Set Chart A
25

Chart C rnd 2: *K1A, k3B; rep from * to

Working from Chart A and starting at rnd 1, end, sm.
10

work 13 rnds in stranded knitting from chart Chart C rnd 3: As rnd 1.

26

or written instructions as foll: Chart C rnd 4: *K1B, k3A; rep from * to

Chart A rnd 1: *K1B, k5A; rep from * to end, end, sm.
sm. Chart C rnd 5: *K2B, k1A, k1B; rep from * to
27

Chart A rnd 2: *K1A, k1B, k3A, k1B; rep from end, sm.
▼

* to end, sm. Chart C rnd 6: As rnd 4.

28
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Chart C rnd 7: As rnd 3. Chart A

1

Chart C rnd 8: As rnd 2. JUNO BY DEBBIE BLISS

3

Chart C rnd 9: As rnd 1.

Next rnd: Knit in A to end, sm.
4

Next rnd (dec): Using B *k13, k2tog; rep

from * to end, sm (168 sts).
Next rnd: *K1A, k1B; rep from * to end, sm.
5
2

Next rnd: Knit in B to end, sm.

Next rnd (dec): Using A *k12, k2tog; rep
from * to end, sm (156 sts).
6

Next rnd: *K1B, k1A; rep from * to end, sm.

Next rnd: Knit in A to end, sm.
7

Next rnd (dec): Using B *k11, k2tog; rep

from * to end, sm (144 sts).
3

Next rnd: *K1A, k1B; rep from * to end, sm.

8

Next rnd: Knit in B to end, sm.

Next rnd: Purl in B to end, sm.
9

Next rnd: Knit in A to end, sm.

Next rnd: Using A *k1, yo, k2tog; rep from *
to end, sm.
10

Next rnd: Knit in B to end, sm. Chart B

4

Next rnd: Purl in B to end, sm.

11

Turn work and using B cast off kwise on WS.

TO FINISH
12

Blocking
Sew in all ends, wet-block and dry capelet as
5

detailed on yarn label. Make a hank with the SIZE

13

remainder of B for a pompom and twisted To fit: UK size 4-6[8-10:12-14:16-18:20-22:24-26]

cord. Wash the hank along with the capelet To fit bust:
14

when you wet-block it. Once the hank is dry 71-76[81-86:92-97:102-107:112-117:122-127]cm

make a twisted cord as foll: (28-30[32-34:36-38:40-42:44-46:48-50]in)
Twisted cord Chart A Finished bust: 78[88:98:110:120:130]cm
15

Cut 3 x 6m (19½ft) lengths of yarn. Knot the (30¾[34¾:38½:43¼:47¼:51¼]in)

6

strands together at each end. Attach one end Length to back neck: 61[62:62:63:64:65]cm
16

to a hook or door handle, insert a knitting (24[24½:24½:24¾:25¼:25½]in)

needle through the other end. Twist the Sleeve length: 46[46:46:46:46:46]cm
needle – the tighter the twisting, the firmer (18[18:18:18:18:18]in)
17

the finished cord will be. Hold the cord in Figures in square brackets refer to larger
the centre with one hand, bring both ends Chart C sizes: where there is only one set of figures
7
18

of cord together, allowing the two halves to this applies to all sizes.
twist together. Keep the cord straight and
avoid tangling. Knot the cut ends together YOU WILL NEED
19

and trim. This will make a cord approx 2m Debbie Bliss Aymara 100% alpaca
(6½ft) long. (approx 100m per 50g)
Thread the twisted cord through the eyelets 7[8:9:10:11:12] x 50g hanks in 04 Cloud (A)
20

at the top of the capelet. 2[2:2:2:2:2] x 50g hanks in 12 Ruby (B)

8

Make two 5cm (2in) pompoms, attach a 2[2:2:2:2:2] x 50g hanks in 10 Copper (C)
21

pompom to each end of the twisted cord. ● 1[1:1:1:1:1] x 50g hank in 09 Gold (D)
1[1:1:1:1:1] x 50g hank in 13 Amethyst (E)
1[1:1:1:1:1] x 50g hank in 11 Quartz (F)
22

1[1:1:1:1:1] x 50g hank in 07 Evergreen (G)

3.25mm and 3.5mm circular needles
23
9

80cm long
Key Set of four 3.25mm and 3.5mm double-
pointed needles
24

Crowedge (A) 2 x 3mm double-pointed needles.

4 stitch holders or waste yarn
Swanbank (B)
25

Note: Yarn amounts given are based on

average requirements and are approximate.
10
26

TENSION
24 sts and 28 rnds to 10cm over st st using
3.5mm needles.
27

24 sts and 24 rounds to 10cm over stranded

colourwork using 3.5mm needles.
28
11
29

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K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 64 28/11/2017 11:42

 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to YOKE Yoke Chart Sleeve Chart

1
obtain correct tension. With RS facing and 3.5mm circular needle,

3
slip sts (without knitting) on to needle in the
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 following order: (84[94:104:112:122:134] Body

4
sts, 58[62:64:60:60:68] Sleeve sts) twice.
BODY 284[312:336:344:364:404] sts.
With 3.25mm circular needle and B, cast on Dec rnd: Rejoin A to start of rnd

188[212:236:264:288:312] sts.
Join to work in the round, taking care not to
twist cast-on sts and pm for start of round.
5
2
and knit 1 rnd, working 2 sts tog
where each side of Body and Sleeve
meet as folls: k83[93:103:111:121:133],

6
Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end. ssk, k56[60:62:58:58:66], k2tog,
This round forms rib and is repeated. k82[92:102:110:120:132], ssk,

7
Rib 2 rounds. k56[60:62:58:58:66], k2tog, pm for new start
Change to A and knit 1 rnd. of rnd. 280[308:332:340:360:400] sts.

3
Rib 13 rnds. Work a further 0[4:7:11:15:18] rnds

8
Change to 3.5mm circular needle. straight and inc 0[2:0:0:0:0] and dec
Work in st st (knit every rnd) until 0[0:2:0:0:0] sts evenly across first rnd.

9
Body meas 40[40:39:38:37:37]cm 280[310:330:340:360:400] sts.
(15¾[15¾:15¼:15:14½:14½]in) from Now work 49 rnds in st st from Yoke Chart,
cast-on edge. working 28[31:33:34:36:40] reps of 10-st patt

10
Next rnd: K5[6:7:10:11:11] and slip per rnd, stranding colours not in use across

4
these sts on to holder or waste yarn for back of work.

11
underarm, k84[94:104:112:122:134], k next Note: 1 st per rep is decreased on the 21st,
10[12:14:20:22:22] sts and slip these sts 25th, 35th, 40th, 44th and 49th rnds.
on to holder or waste yarn for underarm, 112(124:132:136:144:160) sts.

12
k84[94:104:112:122:134], k last 5[6:7:10:11:11]
sts and slip these sts on to a holder or waste NECK EDGING

5
yarn for underarm. Change to 3.25mm circular needle or dpns.

13
There will be now 84[94:104:112:122:134] Rib 9 rounds in A.
sts each for front and back, with Change to D.

14
10[12:14:20:22:22] sts on separate holders for Knit 1 rnd.
each underarm. Rib 1 rnd.
Leave front and back sts on waste yarn or Cast off loosely in rib.

15
spare needles while you work the Sleeves.

6
TO FINISH

16
SLEEVES (MAKE 2) Place the 10[12:14:20:22:22] underarm sts of
With 3.25mm dpns and B, cast on Body and Sleeve on to two smaller dpns and
48[48:52:52:56:56] sts and divide the sts graft together, using yarn ends to close any

17
evenly between three of the four needles. holes at the corners of the grafting.
Join to work in the round, taking care not to Weave in yarn ends.

7
18
twist cast-on sts and pm for start of rnd. Block to measurements. ●
Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end.
This round forms rib and is repeated.

19
Rib 2 rounds.
Change to A and knit 1 rnd.
Rib 8 rounds.

20
Change to 3.5mm dpns.

8
Knit 4 rnds.

21
Now work 10 rnds in st st from Sleeve Chart,
working the 4-st rep 12[12:13:13:14:14] times.
Cont in st st in A only.
22
Inc rnd: K1, m1, k as set to last st, m1, k1.
50[50:54:54:58:58] sts.
23
9

Work 9[6:6:5:6:4] rnds.

Rep the last 10[7:7:6:7:5] rnds 9[12:12:13:12:16]
more times. 68[74:78:80:82:90] sts.
24

Cont straight until Sleeve meas 46cm (18in),

or desired length, from cast-on edge.
25

Next rnd: K5[6:7:10:11:11] and slip these sts

on to a holder or waste yarn, k to end of rnd,
10

and place the last 5[6:7:10:11:11] sts on to a

26

holder or waste yarn. 58[62:64:60:60:68] sts.

Leave sts on holder or waste yarn while you
make the second Sleeve.
27

When both Sleeves are finished return to

▼

spare needles to work Yoke.

28
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K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 65 16/11/2017 16:50

cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2
1

ASTRID BY PAT MENCHINI

3

work over not more than 3 sts at a time. 25[28:31:34:37:40] sts.

4

Join in and break off B and C as required. Work 4[6:6:6:8:8] rows straight, ending at
side edge.
BACK Shape shoulder
5
2

With 5mm needles and A, cast on Loosely cast off 5[6:6:7:7:8] sts at beg of next
89[97:105:115:121:131] sts evenly. row and 2 foll alt rows, then 5[5:6:7:8:8] sts at
Rib row 1 (RS): K2, (p1, k1) to last st, k1. beg of next alt row. 5[5:7:6:8:8] sts.
6

Rib row 2: K1, (p1, k1) to end. Work 1 row straight.

Rep these 2 rib rows for 10cm (4in), ending Cast off.
7

after row 1. With RS facing, slip next 13[13:15:17:17:19] sts

Next row (WS): P, inc 5[5:7:7:9:9] sts evenly (centre sts) on to a holder and leave.
3

across. 94[102:112:122:130:140] sts ** Neatly rejoin A and knit to end of row.

8

*** Change to 6mm needles and st st with Complete as left half of neck but working 1
patt as folls: row more before shaping shoulder.
9

Row 1 (RS): Knit in A.

Row 2: Purl in A. RIGHT SLEEVE
Row 3: Knit, working from row 3 of Chart Cast on 33[33:35:37:37:39] sts and work in rib
10

A, working first 2[2:3:4:4:5] sts of Chart from as for Back for 5cm (2½in), ending after row 1.
4

point indicated for size, work 8-st patt rep Next row: Purl, inc 3[3:1:5:5:3] sts evenly
11

11[12:13:14:15:16] times across, work last across. 36[36:36:42:42:42] sts.

4[4:5:6:6:7] sts of Chart as indicated for size. Change to 6mm needles and st st with
Row 4: Purl, working from row 4 of Chart A, chevron patt as folls:
12

work first 4[4:5:6:6:7] sts of Chart as indicated Work rows 1-6 from Chart B, reading odd (k)
for size, work 8-st patt rep 11[12:13:14:15:16] rows from R to L, and even (p) rows from L
5

times across, work last 2[2:3:4:4:5] sts of to R and repeating 6-st patt rep 6[6:6:7:7:7]
13

SIZES Chart as indicated for size. times across.

To fit: UK size Rows 5-12: Rep rows 3-4 four times but These 6 rows set patt.
14

6-8[10-12:14-16:18-20:22-24:26-28] working rows 5-12 of Chart. Shape Sleeve

76-81[86-91:97-102:107-112:117-122:127-132]cm Rows 13-14: As rows 1-2. Cont in patt and working extra sts in patt,
(30-32[34-36:38-40:42-44:46-48:50-52]in) Rows 15-26: Rep rows 3-4 six times but inc 1 st at each end of next row, then on
15

Actual measurement: working rows 15-26 of Chart. every foll 6th[4th:4th:4th:alt:alt] row until
6

98[107:117:128:136:147]cm These 26 rows set patt. there are 48[50:60:68:62:60] sts, then on
16

(38½[42:46¼:50½:53¾:58]in) Rep these 26 rows twice more, then rows every foll 6th[6th:4th:4th:4th:4th] row until
Length to shoulder: 70[71:71:71:72:72]cm 1-12 again. there are 58[62:68:72:76:82] sts.
(27½[28:28:28:28½:28½]in) Change to 5.5mm needles and cont in A only. Work a few rows straight until Sleeve meas
17

Sleeve length: 44cm (17½in) Next row: Knit. 44cm (17½in) at centre.
Figures in square brackets refer to larger Next row: P2[3:3:3:4:4], (*p2tog, p2; rep Cast off loosely with A.
7
18

sizes: where there is only one set of figures from * once, p2tog, p3) 7[7:8:9:9:10] times,
this applies to all sizes. (p2tog, p1) 0[2:1:0:2:1] times, p1[2:2:2:3:3]. LEFT SLEEVE
73[79:87:95:101:109] sts. *** Work as Right Sleeve but working from
19

YOU WILL NEED Cont straight in st st until Back meas Chart C.

King Cole Indulge Chunky 70[71:71:71:72:72]cm (27½[28:28:28:28¼:28¼]
70% acrylic, 21% polyester, 9% alpaca in) from cast-on edge, ending after a p row. NECKBAND
20

(approx 230m per 100g) Shape shoulders Join left shoulder.

8

4[4:4:5:5:5] x 100g balls in 2451 Quartz (A) Loosely cast off 5[6:6:7:7:8] sts at beg of next With 5mm needles and A, RS facing,
21

2[2:3:3:3:4] x 100g balls in 2458 Granite (B) 6 rows. 43[43:51:53:59:61] sts. k23[23:25:27:27:29] sts across back neck, pick
1[1:1:2:2:2] x 100g balls in 2456 Matador (C) Cast off 5[5:6:7:8:8] sts at beg of next 2 rows. up and k15[16:16:16:17:17] sts evenly down
1 pair each 5mm and 6mm needles 33[33:39:39:43:45] sts. left side of Front neck, k13[13:15:17:17:19]
22

Stitch holders Cast off 5[5:7:6:8:8] sts at beg of next 2 rows. sts across Front neck, finally pick up and
Row counter 23[23:25:27:27:29] sts. k16[17:17:17:18:18] sts evenly up right side of
23
9

Note: Yarn amounts given are based on Slip rem sts on to a holder and leave. Front neck. 67[69:73:77:79:83] sts.
average requirements and are approximate. Beg row 2 work in rib as on back for
FRONT 7cm (2¾in).
24

TENSION Work as Back to ** but working in rib for Cast off loosely in rib using a 6mm needle.
19 sts and 17 rows to 10cm over patt using 5cm (2½in) only, ending after row 1.
TO FINISH
25

6mm needles. Now work as Back from *** to ***.

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to Cont straight in st st until Front meas Join right shoulder and neckband.
10

obtain correct tension. 10[12:12:12:14:14] rows fewer than Back to start Stitch cast-off edges of Sleeves to
26

of shoulder shaping, ending after a p row. corresponding sections of upper Front and
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 Shape neck Back. Join side seams leaving rib rows free.
Next row: K30[33:36:39:42:45], turn. Join Sleeve seams. ●
27

PATTERN NOTES Cont on this group of sts for left half of neck.
Carry colour not in use loosely across WS of Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 5 rows.
28
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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
Chart A

1
3
4
5
2
6
7
3
8
9
10
4
11
12
5
13
14
15
6
Chart B Chart C

16
17
7
18
19
20
Measurements are given in cm

8
21
22
23
9
24
25
10
26
27
▼
28
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2
1

MACKINTOSH BY MARTIN STOREY

3

BACK With RS facing, rejoin yarn and cast off

4

Using 3.25mm needles and A cast on centre 38[38:42:42:44] sts, patt to end.
106[114:126:138:150] sts. Complete to match first side, reversing
Row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2, rep from * to end. shapings.
5
2

Row 2: P2, *k2, p2, rep from * to end.

These 2 rows form rib. FRONT
Cont in rib until Back meas 8cm (3in), Work as given for Back until 16[16:18:18:20]
6

inc 0[1:1:0:0] st at each end of last row rows fewer have been worked than on back
and ending with RS facing for next row. to beg of shoulder shaping, ending with RS
7

106[116:128:138:150] sts. facing for next row.

Change to 4mm needles. Shape front neck
3

Set stripe patt Next row (RS): Patt 39[41:44:48:52] and turn,
8

Join in B and work in striped st st as folls: leaving rem sts on a holder.

Row 1: Knit in B. Work each side of neck separately.
9

Row 2: Purl in B. Cast off 5 sts at beg of next row.

Row 3: Knit in A. 34[36:39:43:47] sts.
Row 4: Purl in A. Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 5 rows, then
10

These 4 rows form striped st st. on foll 4[4 5:5:6] alt rows. 25[27:29:33:36] sts.
4

Keeping stripes correct, dec 1 st at each end Work 1 row, ending with RS facing for
11

of 7th[11th:13th:15th:19th] and five foll 6th next row.

rows. 94[104:116:126:138] sts. Shape shoulder
Work 13[13:13:15:15] rows, ending with RS Cast off 4[5:6:6:7] sts at beg of next and foll
12

facing for next row. alt row, then 5[5:5:6:7] sts at beg of foll 2 alt
Inc 1 st at each end of next and five foll 6th rows and AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at
5

rows. 106[116:128:138:150] sts. neck edge of next and foll 4th row.
13

Work 6[2:4:0:0] rows, ending after 1 row Work 1 row.

using A and with WS facing for next row. Cast off rem 5[5:5:7:6] sts.
14

Next row (WS): Using A p5[6:4:5:7], With RS facing, rejoin yarn and cast off
SIZE (m1p, p4) 24[26:30:32:34] times, p5[6:4:5:7]. centre 16[16:18:18:18] sts, patt to end.
To fit: UK size 8-10[12-14:16-18:20-22:24-26] 130[142:158:170:184] sts. Complete to match first side, reversing
15

To fit bust: Beg and ending rows as indicated, using the shapings.
6

81-86[91-97:102-107:112-117:122-127]cm Fairisle technique and repeating the 24-row

16

(32-34[36-38:40-42:44-46:48-50]in) patt rep throughout, now work in patt from SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
Actual bust: 96[105:116:125:136]cm Chart and AT THE SAME TIME shape Using 3.25mm needles and A, cast on
(38[41½:45½:49:53½]in) as folls: 50[50:54:54:58] sts.
17

Length: 64[66:68:70:72]cm Cont straight until Back meas Work in rib as given for Back until Sleeve
(25[26:27:27½:28½]in) 41[41.5:42:42.5:43]cm (16[16¼:16½:16¾:17]in), meas 8cm (3in), inc 0[1:1:1:0] st at each end
7
18

Width (at 2.5cm below armhole): ending with RS facing for next row. of last row and ending with RS facing for
48[52.5:58:62.5:68]cm (19[20½:23:24½:27]in) Shape armholes next row. 50[52:56:56:58] sts.
Sleeve seam: 45[45:46:46:46]cm Keeping patt correct, cast off 4[5:5:7:7] sts at Change to 4mm needles.
19

(17½[17½:18:18:18]in) beg of next 2 rows. 122[132:148:156:170] sts. Beg with a k row, work in striped st st as
Figures in square brackets refer to larger Next row (RS): Sl1, k2tog, psso, patt to last given for Back (throughout), shaping sides
sizes: where there is only one set of figures 3 sts, k3tog. by inc 1 st at each end of 7th[5th:5th:3rd:5th]
20

this applies to all sizes. Next row: P2tog, patt to last 2 sts, p2tog tbl. and every foll 8th[6th:6th:6th:4th] row
8

Rep last 2 rows 3 more times. to 72[66:68:90:68] sts, then on every foll
21

YOU WILL NEED 98[108:124:132:146] sts. 10th[8th:8th:-:6th] row until there are
Rowan Cashmere Tweed 80% extra fine Dec 1 st at each end of next 1[3:5:7:9] rows, 74[80:84:-:94] sts, taking inc sts into
Merino, 20% cashmere (approx 88m per 25g) then on foll 1st[2nd:4th:2nd:3rd] alt row. striped st st.
22

8[9:10:11:12] x 25g in 001 Oats (A) 94[98:106:114:122] sts. Cont straight until Sleeve meas
5[6:7:7:8] x 25g in 008 Chocolate (B) Cont straight until armhole meas 45[45:46:46:46]cm (17½[17½:18:18:18]in),
23
9

3.25mm and 4mm needles 20[21.5:23:24.5:26]cm (8[8½:9:9½:10¼]in), ending with RS facing for next row.
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on ending with RS facing for next row. Shape top
average requirements and are approximate. Shape shoulders and back neck Keeping stripes correct, cast off 3[4:4:6:6] sts
24

Cast off 4[5:6:6:7] sts at beg of next 2 rows. at beg of next 2 rows. 68[72:76:78:82] sts.
TENSION 86[88:94:102:108] sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 rows, then
25

22 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over striped st st Next row (RS): Cast off 4[5:6:6:7] sts, patt on foll 5 alt rows, then on 2 foll 4th rows.
using 4mm needles. until there are 20[20:20:24:25] sts on RH 44[48:52:54:58] sts.
10

27 sts and 26 rows to 10cm measured over needle and turn, leaving rem sts on holder. Work 1 row, ending with RS facing for
26

patterned st st using 4mm needles. Work each side of neck separately. next row.
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 5 rows and AT Dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll
to obtain correct tension. THE SAME TIME cast off 5[5:5:6:7] sts at beg alt row until 32 sts rem, then on foll 7 rows,
27

of second and foll alt row. ending with RS facing for next row.
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 Cast off rem 5[5:5:7:6] sts. Cast off rem 18 sts.
28
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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
TO FINISH

1
Press as described on the ball band. RUNE BED RUNNER BY MARTIN STOREY

3
Join right shoulder seam using backstitch,
or mattress stitch if preferred. Set in Sleeves wrap 3 = yrn, p3, then lift the yrn over these

4
using the set-in method. 3 sts and off the needle
Neckband For more abbreviations see page 91
With RS facing, using 3.25mm needles and

5
PATTERN NOTE

2
A , pick up and knit 28[28:30:30:32] sts down
left side of front neck, 14[14:15:15:16] sts When working from Chart, RS rows are read
from Front, 28[28:30:30:32] sts up right side from right to left, WS rows are read from left

6
of front neck, then 40[40:43:43:46] sts from to right.
Back. 110[110:118:118:126] sts.

7
Beg with row 2, work in rib as given for Back CENTRE PANEL
until Neckband meas 3cm (1in), ending with Cast on 36 sts.

3
RS facing for next row. Row 1 (RS): P1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, (k2, p2)

8
Cast off in rib. ● 4 times, k2, p4, (k1, p1) twice, p1.
Row 2: K1, (k1, p1) twice, k4, p2, (k2, p2)

9
4 times, k4 (p1, k1) twice, k1.
These 2 rows set patt. Work a further 3 rows
in patt.

10
Inc row: Patt 9, (m1, p1) twice, (k1, m1) twice,

4
p2, (k1, m1, k1, p2) twice, (m1, k1) twice,

11
(p1, m1) twice, patt 9 (46 sts).
Set Centre Panel Chart
Row 1: P1, work row 1 from Centre Panel

12
Chart, p1.
Row 2: K1, work row 2 from Centre Panel

5
Chart, k1.

13
These 2 rows set position of Chart with 1 st
at each side in rev st st.

14
Rows 3-32: Working correct rows of Chart,
SIZE work in patt as set.
Approx 100cm (39½in) wide x 220cm These 32 rows form the patt rep. Rep these

15
(86½in) long. 32 rows seven more times, then row 1 again,

6
ending on a RS row.

16
YOU WILL NEED Dec row: Patt 8, (p2tog) twice, p1, (p2tog)
Rowan Big Wool 100% Merino wool twice, p2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, p2, (p2tog)
(approx 80m per 100g) twice, p1, (p2tog) twice, patt 9 (36 sts).

17
22 x 100g balls in 048 Linen Rows 259-264: Rep rows 1 and 2 three times.
10mm needles Cast off in patt.

7
18
Cable needle
Note: Yarn amounts are based on average RIGHT SIDE PANEL
requirements and are approximate. Cast on 35 sts.

19
Row 1 (RS): K1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, (k2, p2)
TENSION 4 times, k2, p4, (k1, p1) twice.
9 sts and 12.5 rows to 10cm over st st. Row 2: (K1, p1) twice, k4, p2 (k2, p2) 4 times,

20
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary k4, (p1, k1) twice, k1.

8
to obtain correct tension. These 2 rows set patt. Work a further 3 rows

21
in patt.
ABBREVIATIONS Inc row: Patt 8, m1, p2, (m1, k1) twice, p1, m1,
C4B = sl2 sts to cn and leave at back of p1, (k1, m1) twice, p2, (m1, k1) twice, p1, m1,
22
work, k2, then k2 from cn p1, (k1, m1) twice, p2, m1, patt 9 (47 sts).
C4F = sl2 sts to cn and leave at front of Set Right Side Panel Chart
23
9

work, k2, then k2 from cn Row 1: K1, work row 1 from Side Panel Chart.
C6B = sl3 sts to cn and leave at back of Row 2: Work row 2 from Side Panel Chart, k1.
work, k3, then k3 from cn These 2 rows set Chart with 1 st in g st at
24

C6F = sl3 sts to cn and leave at front of RH edge.

work, k3, then k3 from cn Rows 3-6: Working correct rows of Chart,
25

Cr4R = sl next st to cn and leave at back of work in patt as set.

work, k3, then p1 from cn Rows 3 to 6 form 4-row patt rep.
10

Cr4L = sl3 sts to cn and leave at front of Rep these 4 rows 62 more times, then rows
26

work, p1, then k3 from cn 3 to 5 again, ending on a RS row.

T5R = sl2 sts to cn and leave at back of work, Dec row: Patt 7, p2tog, p1, (p2tog) twice,
k3, then p2 from cn (p1, p2tog) twice, p2tog, p1, p2tog, (p2tog,
27

T5L = sl3 sts to cn and leave at front of work, p1) twice, (p2tog) twice, p1, p2tog, patt 9
▼

p2, then k3 from cn (35 sts).

28
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Rows 259-264: Rep rows 1 and 2 three times. Cast off in patt.
1

Cast off in patt. FIRESIDE BLANKET

3

TO FINISH BY PAT STRONG

LEFT SIDE PANEL Join row ends of side panels to row ends of
4

Cast on 35 sts. centre panel. ●

Row 1 (RS): (P1, k1) twice, p4, (k2, p2)
4 times, k2, p4, (k1, p1) twice, k1.
5
2

Row 2: K1, (k1. p1) twice, k4, p2, (k2, p2)

4 times, k4, (p1, k1) twice. Pattern from Martin
These 2 rows set patt. Work a further 3 rows Storey’s Scandinavian
6

in patt. Knits, published by

Inc row: Rib 9, m1, p2, (m1, k1) twice, p1, m1, Berry & Co
7

p1, (k1, m1) twice, p2, (m1, k1) twice, p1, m1,
p1, (k1, m1) twice, p2, m1, rib 8 (47 sts).
3

Set Left Side Panel Chart

8

Row 1: Work row 1 from Side Panel Chart, k1.

Row 2: K1, work row 2 from Side Panel Chart.
9

These 2 rows set Chart with 1 st in g st at

LH edge.
Rows 3-6: Working correct rows of Chart,
10

work in patt as set.

4

Rows 3 to 6 form 4-row patt rep. Rep these

11

4 rows 62 more times, then rows 3 to 5 again,

ending on a RS row. Key
Dec row: Patt 9, p2tog, p1, (p2tog) twice,
12

(p1, p2tog) twice, p2tog, p1, p2tog, (p2tog, K on RS, P on WS T5R

p1) twice, (p2tog) twice, p1, p2tog, patt 7 P on RS, K on WS T5L
5

(35 sts). C6B

13

C4B
Rows 259-264: Rep rows 1 and 2 three times. C4F C6F SIZE
Cr4R wrap 3 142 x 140cm (56 x 55¼in)
14

Cr4L
Centre Panel Chart YOU WILL NEED
New Lanark Pure Wool Chunky 100% wool
15

32
(approx 120m per 100g)
6

30 7 x 100g balls in Sky (A)

16

7 x 100g balls in Ecru (B)

6.5mm needles
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on
17

average requirements and are approximate.

7

TENSION
18

20
13 sts and 19 rows to 10cm over st st motif.
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to
19

obtain correct tension.

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91

20
8

PATTERN NOTE
21

The blanket is worked in strips with sts for

10
the g st border included. The central strips
are worked first. The two side strips are then
22

worked with extra sts for the borders. Using

the instructions below, start with the second
23
9

strip and end with the 10th one.

1 LEAF PATTERN
24

17 sts and 21 rows

44 sts
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Side Panel Chart
25

Row 2 and all WS rows: K2, p13, k2.

Rows 3 and 5: Knit.
10

6 Row 7: K7, p6, k4.

26

Row 9: K6, p5, k1, p1, k4.

Row 11: K5, p4 (k1, p1) twice, k4.
Row 13: K4, p3 (k1, p1) three times, k4.
27

1
Row 15: K4 (p1, k1) four times, p1, k4.
46 sts Rows 17, 19, and 21: Knit.
28
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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
TREE PATTERN Leaf motif Star motif

1
17 sts and 21 rows

3
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2: K2, p13, k2.

4
Rows 3-4: As rows 1-2.
Row 5: K7, p1, k1, p1, k7.
Row 6: K2, p6, k1, p6, k2.

5
2
Rows 7-8: As rows 5-6.
Row 9: K4, p9, k4.
Row 10 and all following WS rows:

6
As row 2.
Row 11: K5, p7, k5.

7
Row 13: K6, p5, k6.
Row 15: K7, p3, k7.

3
Row 17: K8, p1, k8.

8
Rows 19 and 21: Knit.

9
STAR PATTERN
17 sts and 21 rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit. Tree motif Layout Diagram

10
Row 2: K2, p13, k2.

4
Rows 3-4: As rows 1-2.

11
Row 5: K8, p1, k8.
Rows 6-7: As rows 4-5.
Row 8: K2, p3, k1, p5, k1, p3, k2.

12
Row 9: K6, (p1, k1) twice, p1, k6.
Row 10: K2, p5, k1, p1, k1, p5, k2.

5
Row 11: K4, (p1, k1) four times, p1, k4.

13
Row 12: As row 10.
Row 13: As row 9.

14
Row 14: As row 8.
Row 15: K8, p1, k8.
Row 16: As row 2.

15
Rows 17-18: As rows 15-16.

6
Row 19: Knit.

16
Row 20: As row 2.
Row 21: Knit.
L = Leaf

17
T = Tree
CENTRAL STRIP (MAKE 9) Row 2: Work row 2 from Chart or written
S= Star
Cast on 17 sts in the colour of the first instructions for this square in the layout, k3.

7
18
(bottom) square for this strip indicated on Cont working from Chart or written
the layout chart. instructions as set until 21 rows have been
Knit 8 rows. worked, with a 3-st g st border on RH side.

19
*Work 21 rows from Chart or written Next row (WS): Knit.
instructions for this square in the layout, Change to colour used for next square in
working RS rows from right to left and WS this strip.

20
rows from left to right. Knit 2 rows. 140

8
Next row (WS): Knit. Rep from * until 10 squares are complete for

21
Change to colour used for next square in this strip. Measurements are given in cm
this strip. Last square
Knit 2 rows. Row 1: K3, work row 1 from Chart or written
142 22
Rep from * until 10 squares are complete for instructions for this square in the layout.
this strip. Row 2: Work row 2 in st st from Chart or
23
9

Last square written instructions for this square in the *Row 1: Work row 1 from Chart or written
Work 21 rows from Chart or written layout, k3. instructions for this square in the layout, k3.
instructions for the last square in this strip. Cont working from Chart or written Row 2: K3, work row 2 from Chart or written
24

Knit 8 rows. instructions as set until 21 rows have been instructions for this square in the layout.
Cast off on WS. worked, with a 3-st g st border on RH side. Cont working from Chart or written
25

Knit 8 rows. instructions as set until 21 rows have been

RIGHT STRIP Cast off on WS. worked, with a 3-st g st border on LH side.
10

Cast on 20 sts in the colour of the first Next row (WS): Knit.
26

(bottom) square for this strip indicated on LEFT STRIP Change to colour used for next square in
the layout chart. Cast on 20 sts in the colour of the first this strip.
Knit 8 rows. (bottom) square for this strip indicated on Knit 2 rows.
27

*Row 1: K3, work row 1 from Chart or written the layout chart. Rep from * until 10 squares are complete
▼

instructions for this square in the layout. Knit 8 rows. for this strip.
28
11
29

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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Last square
1

Row 1: Work row 1 from Chart or written SCANDI TEA COSY AND CUSHION BY PAT STRONG
3

instructions for this square in the layout, k3.

Row 2: K3, work row 2 from Chart or written sts, p2, k1.
4

instructions for this square in the layout. Rows 2-3: As row 1.

Cont working from Chart or written Row 4: K1, p to last st, inc 1 st in centre, k1
instructions as set until 21 rows have been (35 sts).
5
2

worked, with a 3-st g st border on LH side. Joining in B, work 19 rows in st st from Tea
Knit 8 rows. Cosy Chart, working RS rows from right to
Cast off on WS. left and WS rows from left to right. Cut B.
6

Row 24 (WS): Using A, k1, p to last st, k1.

TO FINISH Row 25: K2, *k2tog, k5; rep from * to last 5
7

Sew strips together using a flat mattress sts, k2tog, k3 (30 sts).
seam, linking the end ‘bumps’ of the garter Row 26: K1, p to last st, k1.
3

stitch edges. Weave in ends. ● Row 27: K1, *k2tog, k1; rep from * to last 2
8

sts, k2tog (20 sts).

Row 28: *P2tog; rep from * to end (10 sts).
9

Knit 3 rows.
Cast off kwise on WS.
10
4
11
12
5
13

SIZE
Tea cosy
14

To fit: 45cm (17¾in) circumference teapot,

17cm (6½in) from base to centre lid.
Size: 23 x 19cm (9 x 7½in) flat
15

Cushion
6

Size: 36 x 36cm (14 x 14in)

16

YOU WILL NEED

New Lanark Pure Wool Chunky 100% wool
17

(approx 120m per 100g)

Tea cosy
7
18

1 x 100g ball in Sky (A)

1 x 100g ball in Ecru (B)
6.5mm needles
19

Cushion
2 x 100g balls in Sky (A)
1 x 100g ball in Ecru (B)
20

6mm circular needle 60cm long

8

35cm (13¾in) square cushion pad

21

3 x 2cm (1in) buttons

Stitch marker
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on
22

average requirements and are approximate.

23
9

TENSION
Tea cosy: 14 sts and 16 rows to 10cm over
stranded st st using 6.5mm needles.
24

Cushion: 15 sts and 17 rows to 10cm over

stranded st st using 6mm needle.
25

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to

obtain correct tension.
10
26

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91

TEA COSY (MAKE 2)

27

Cast on 34 sts in A.
Row 1 (RS): K3, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3
28
11
29

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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
CUSHION Cushion Chart

1
Cast on 110 sts in A, join to work in rnd. Pm

3
to denote start of rnd.
Knit 5 rnds.

4
Work 40 rnds in st st from Cushion Chart,
working 11-st rep 10 times across rnd.
Button band opening

5
2
Using A, cast off 55 sts, turn, cast on 55 sts,
turn.
Work rnds 41 to 50 from Cushion Chart. Cut B.

6
Knit 5 rnds.
Cast off.

7
Button Band
Turn cushion 180 degrees, pick up and knit

3
56 sts from the cast-on sts at button band

8
opening, turn. You will now be working in
rows.

9
Next row (WS): K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to
last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Next row: K3, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

10
Next row: K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3

4
sts, p2, k1.

11
Next row (buttonhole RS): Rib 12 sts as set,
cast off 2 sts (1 st left on RH needle), *rib 12
sts, cast off 2 sts (1 st left on RH needle); rep

12
from * once, rib 11 sts.
Next row: Rib 12 sts, cast on 2 sts, (rib 13

5
sts, cast on 2 sts) twice, rib 12 sts.

13
Next row: K3, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Cast off on WS in rib.

14
TO FINISH
Tea cosy

15
Weave in ends.

6
Sew side seams leaving a gap for spout

16
and handle.
Cushion
Weave in ends.

17
Sew sides of button band.
Attach buttons to match buttonholes.

7
18
Sew seams at top and bottom of cushion
cover. ●

19
20
Tea Cosy Chart

8
RS: knit
WS: purl

21
RS: purl
WS: knit
Sky (A) 22
Ecru (B)
23
9
24
25
10
26
27
▼

28
11
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2
1

WINTER BY SIAN BROWN

3

Row 4: P2A, (p2A, work row 4 of Chart 1 Chart 1

4

from left to right) 4 times, p4A.

Cont as set from Chart 1 until all 13 rows
have been worked, ending with a RS row.
5
2

Work 2 rows in st st in B, starting with a p

row to form stripe.
Work Chart 2
6

Row 1 (WS): Purl in A.

Row 2: Knit in A.
7

Row 3: P4A, (work row 3 of Chart 2 from

left to right) 7 times, p4A.
3

Row 4: K4A, (work row 4 of Chart 2 from

8

right to left) 7 times, k4A.

Cont as set from Chart 2 until all 16 rows Chart 2
9

have been worked, ending with a RS row.

Work 2 rows st st in B, starting with a p row
to form stripe.**
10

Work Chart 1 (reversing RS/WS)

4

Row 1 (WS): Purl in A.

11

Row 2: Knit in A.
Row 3: P2A, (p2A, work row 3 of Chart 1
from left to right) 4 times, p4A.
12

Row 4: K4A, (work row 4 of Chart 1 from

right to left, k2A) 4 times, k2A.
5

SIZE Cont as set from Chart 1 until all 13 rows

13

40 x 40cm (15¾ x 15¾in) have been worked, ending with a WS row.

Work 2 rows st st in B to form stripe.
14

YOU WILL NEED Work Chart 2 (reversing RS/WS)

Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran Row 1 (RS): Knit in A.
100% wool (approx 100m per 50g) Row 2: Purl in A.
15

3 x 50g balls in 008 Red (A) Row 3: K4A, (work row 3 of Chart 2 from
6

2 x 50g balls in 060 Natural (B) right to left) 7 times, k4A.

16

4.5mm needles Row 4: P4A, (work row 4 of Chart 2 from left

40 x 40cm (16 x 16in) cushion pad to right) 7 times, p4A.
6 x medium buttons Cont as set from Chart 2 until all 16 rows
17

Note: Yarn amounts given are based on have been worked, ending with a WS row.
average requirements and are approximate. Work 2 rows st st in B to form stripe.
7
18

Rep from ** to ** once more, ending with

TENSION row 16 of Chart 2, a RS row.
19 sts x 26 rows to 10cm over st st. Work 3 rows st st in A, starting with a p row.
19

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary Next row (RS): Purl in A to mark edge of
to obtain correct tension. cushion.
Using A only, work 10cm (4in) in st st,
20

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 starting with a p row.

8

Fold this overlap to the back and make sure

21

CUSHION that it sits just above the cast-on edge. If it

With B, cast on 78 sts. does not, cont until it does, ending with a
Row 1: (K1, p1) to end. WS row.
22

Row 2: (P1, k1) to end. Change to B.

These 2 rows form m st. Rep these 2 rows Knit 1 row.
23
9

twice more. Row 1: (K1, p1) to end.

Change to A. Row 2: (P1, k1) to end.
Work in st st until work meas 30cm (12in) Row 3: Rep row 1.
24

from cast-on edge, ending with a k row. Row 4 (buttonhole row): Patt 6, (k2tog,
Next row (WS): Knit to mark edge of yo, patt 11) 5 times, k2tog, yo, patt 5.
25

cushion. Rep rows 1 and 2 once more.

Front Cast off.
10

Work 2 rows st st in A.
26

**Work Chart 1 TO FINISH

Row 1 (RS): Knit in A. Block and press under a damp cloth.
Row 2: Purl in A. Pin and sew side seams.
27

Row 3: K4A, (work row 3 of Chart 1 from Sew on the buttons to correspond with the
right to left, k2A) 4 times, k2A. buttonholes. ●
28
11
29

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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
1
DALARNA BY MILLAMIA

3
Suggested alternative colourway rows B, 2 rows D and 2 rows C.
Set Chart 5

4
122 Petal (A)
124 Snow (B) Row 83: K across 7-st patt rep 13 times.
141 Grass (C) Row 84: P across 7-st patt rep 13

5
2
143 Fuchsia (D) times. These two rows set patt. Cont in patt
to end of Chart 5.
FRONT Rows 91-98: Dec 1 st at centre of first row,

6
Using 3.25mm needles and A cast on 90 sts. work in stripes of 2 rows C, 2 rows B, 2 rows
Beg with a k row cont in st st. C and 2 rows D (90 sts).

7
Row 1: Using A, knit to end. Set Chart 2
Row 2: Using A, purl to end. Row 99: K across 18-st patt rep 5 times.

3
Set Chart 1 Row 100: P across 18-st patt rep 5 times.

8
Row 3: K1, k across 11-st patt rep 8 times, k1. These 2 rows set patt. Cont in patt to end of
Row 4: P1, p across 11-st patt rep 8 times, p1. Chart 2.

9
These 2 rows set patt. Cont in patt to end of Rows 105-112: Work in stripes of 2 rows D,
Chart 1. 2 rows C, 2 rows B, 1 row C and 1 row A.
Rows 14-21: Work in stripes of 1 row A, Set Chart 1

10
1 row C, 2 rows B, 2 rows C and 2 rows D. Row 113: K1, k across 11-st patt rep 8 times, k1.

4
Set Chart 2 Row 114: P1, p across 11-st patt rep 8 times, p1.

11
Row 22: P across 18-st patt rep 5 times. These two rows set patt. Cont in patt to end
Row 23: K across 18-st patt rep 5 times. of Chart 1.
These 2 rows set patt. Cont in patt to end of Row 124: Using A, p to end.

12
Chart 2. Row 125: Using A, k to end.
Rows 28-35: Work in stripes of 2 rows D, Cast off in A.

5
SIZE 2 rows C, 2 rows B and 2 rows C, inc 1 st at

13
To fit: 35 x 35cm (13¾ x 13¾ in) cushion pad centre of last row (91 sts).
Actual meas: 34 x 34cm (13½ x 13½in) Set Chart 3

14
Row 36: P across 7-st patt rep 13 times.
YOU WILL NEED Row 37: K across 7-st patt rep 13 times.
MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino These 2 rows set patt. Cont in patt to end of

15
100% Merino wool (approx 125m per 50g) Chart 3.

6
2 x 50g balls in 120 Forget Me Not (A) Rows 44-52: Work in stripes of 2 rows C,

16
1 x 50g ball in 142 Daisy Yellow (B) 2 rows D, 3 rows B and 2 rows D.
2 x 50g balls in 124 Snow (C) Set Chart 4
1 x 50g ball in 143 Fuchsia (D) Row 53: K1, k across 30-st patt rep 3 times.

17
3mm and 3.25mm needles Row 54: P across 30-st patt rep 3 times, p1.
5 x 15mm buttons These 2 rows set patt. Cont in patt to end of

7
18
35 x 35cm (13¾ x 13¾ in) cushion pad Chart 4.
Note: Yarn amounts are based on average Rows 74-82: Work in stripes of 2 rows D, 3
requirements and are approximate.

19
Chart 1 Chart 2 Chart 3
TENSION
26 sts and 36 rows to 10cm over st st using

20
3mm needles.

8
26 sts and 36 rows to 10cm over Fairisle patt

21
using 3.25mm needles.
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to
obtain correct tension.
22

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 Chart 4 Chart 5 Key

23
9

PATTERN NOTES A – Forget me not (120)

Watch your tension to achieve a nice even B – Daisy Yellow (142)
24

square cushion cover, or if your tension is C – Snow (124)

slightly off adjust while blocking and while D – Fuchsia (143)
25

you are making up.

When working from Chart odd-numbered
10

rows are knit rows and read from right to

26

left. Even-numbered rows are purl rows

and read from left to right. Use the Fairisle
method, stranding the yarn not in use across
27

WS of work, weaving it under and over the

working yarn every three or four stitches.
28
11
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2
1

LOWER BACK SCANDI-STYLE BLANKET BY JO ALLPORT

3

Using 3mm needles and A cast on 90 sts.

Beg with a k row, cont in st st and stripes of Row 22: Using A, k6, p156, k6.
4

14 rows A, 1 row C, 2 rows B, 2 rows C, 10 Rep rows 1 and 2 a further 9 times. **

rows D, 2 rows C, 2 rows B, 12 rows C, 2 rows Rep from ** to ** a further 3 times.
D, 3 rows B, 2 rows D, 21 rows A, 2 rows D, Row 161 (RS): K6A, p156B, k6A.
5
2

3 rows B, 2 rows D and 12 rows C. Using C, Row 162: K6A, k156B, k6A.
cast off. Rep rows 1 and 2 a further 9 times.
Change to 6mm needles and cont in A only.
6

UPPER BACK Work in g st for 5cm (2in), ending with

Using 3mm needles and D cast on 90 sts. a RS row.
7

Beg with a k row, cont in st st and work 2 Cast off.

rows D and 4 rows C.
3

Buttonhole row 1: Using C, k7, (k2tog, y2rn, TO FINISH

8

skpo, k14) 4 times, k2tog, y2rn, skpo, k7. Weave in ends. Block lightly if required. ●
Buttonhole row 2: Using C, p to end,
9

working p1, p1 tbl in y2rn.

Work 6 rows C.
Cont in stripes of 2 rows B, 2 rows C, 10 rows
10

D, 2 rows C, 2 rows B, 1 row C and 14 rows A.

4

Cast off in A.
11

TO FINISH
Lap Upper Back over the final 14 rows of
12

Lower Back and tack in place. With right

sides together, sew Backs to Front. Turn to
5

RS, sew on buttons. Insert cushion pad. ●

13

SIZE
Pattern supplied courtesy of loveknitting.com 120 x 100cm (47¼ x 39½in)
14

YOU WILL NEED

Wendy Merino Wool Chunky 100% wool
15

(approx 65m per 50g)

6

10 x 50g balls in 2470 Cloud (A)

16

Wendy Eider Chunky 80% nylon, 20%

polyester (approx 150m per 100g)
3 x 100g balls in 3351 Ecru (B)
17

6mm circular needle 100cm (40in) long

6.5mm circular needle 100cm (40in) long
7
18

Note: Yarn amounts given are based on

average requirements and are approximate.
19

TENSION
14 sts and 20 rows to 10cm over patt using
6.5mm needles.
20

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary

8

to obtain correct tension.

21

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91

22

PATTERN NOTE
Use separate balls of A at each side when
23
9

working the B central section. Twist the

yarns when changing colours to avoid holes.
24

BLANKET
Using A and 6mm circular needle, cast on
25

168 sts.
Work in g st for 5cm (2in), working an odd
10

number of rows in total.

26

Change to 6.5mm needles.

**Row 1 (RS): K6A, p156B, k6A.
Row 2: K6A, k156B, k6A.
27

Rep rows 1 and 2 a further 9 times.

Row 21 (RS): Using A, knit.
28
11
29

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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
1
CELTIC CABLE CUSHION COVER BY CHRISTINE BOGGIS

3
Row 2 and all alt rows: Work each st as it TO FINISH

4
appears. Weave in ends. Block if required.
Row 3: P1, CR3B, (CL4F, CR4B) twice, CL3F, p1. Sew on buttons. Insert 50cm (19¾in) square
Row 5: CR3B, p1, (p2, C4F, p2) twice, p1, cushion pad. ●

5
2
CL3F.
Row 7: K2, p2, (CR4B, CL4F) twice, p2, k2.
Row 9: (K2, p2) twice, p2, C4B, p2, (p2, k2)

6
twice.
Row 11: K2, p2, (CL4F, CR4B) twice, p2, k2.

7
Row 13: CL3F, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, CR3B.
Row 15: P1, CL3F, (CR4B, CL4F) twice,

3
CR3B, p1.

8
These 16 rows form Celtic Cable Patt and
are repeated.

9
CUSHION COVER
Cast on 45 sts in A.

10
Set moss stitch button band

4
Row 1 (RS): K1, (p1, k1) to end.

11
Rep row 1 seven times.
Next row (RS): Knit.
Next row: Purl.

12
These 2 rows form st st. Cont in st st until
piece meas 31cm (12¼in), ending with a WS

5
SIZE row.

13
To fit: 50cm (19¾in) square cushion pad. Next row: Purl.
Actual size: 52 x 52cm (20½ x 20½in) Break A and join B.

14
Next row (inc): (K8, kfb) five times (50 sts).
YOU WILL NEED Set Celtic Cable Patt
Cascade Spuntaneous 100% extra fine Set-up row (RS): P13, (p2, k4, p2) three

15
Merino wool (approx 100m per 200g) times, p13.

6
2 x 200g skeins in 21 Blackberry (A) Next row: Work each st as it appears.

16
2 x 200g skeins in 02 Charcoal (B) Cable row 1: P13, work row 1 of Celtic Cable
10mm needles Patt, p13.
4 x 40mm (1½in) buttons Cable row 2: K13, work row 2 of Celtic

17
50cm (19¾in) square cushion pad Cable Patt, k13.
Cable needle These two rows set position of Celtic Cable

Note: Yarn amounts are based on average
requirements and are approximate.
7
18
Patt on a background of rev st st.
Cont as set for four full reps of 16-row patt,
then work row 1 again. Piece meas approx

19
TENSION 85cm (33½in).
10 sts and 13 rows to 10cm over st st. Next row (dec): (K8, k2tog) five times (45 sts).
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary Next row (RS): Purl.

20
to obtain correct tension. Next row: Purl.

8
Break B and join A.

21
ABBREVIATIONS Next row: Knit.
C4B = sl2 sts to cn and hold at back, k2, k2 Next row: Purl.
from cn These two rows form st st. Cont in st st until
22
C4F = sl2 sts to cn and hold at front, k2, k2 piece meas approx 110cm (43¼in), or until
from cn piece fits comfortably around cushion pad
23
9

CR3B = sl1 st to cn and hold at back, k2, p1 to button band, but not overlapping with it,
from cn ending with a WS row.
CL3F = sl2 sts to cn and hold at front, p1, k2 Set m st buttonhole band
24

from cn Row 1: K1, (p1, k1) to end.

CR4B = sl2 sts to cn and hold at back, k2, p2 Rep row 1 three times.
25

from cn Next row: Patt 2, cast off 2 sts, (patt until

CL4F = sl2 sts to cn and hold at front, p2, k2 there are 11 sts on RH needle, cast off 2 sts)
10

from cn three times, patt to end.

26

For more abbreviations see page 91 Next row: Patt 2, (cast on 2 sts over cast off
sts, patt 11) three times, cast on 2 sts, patt 2.
CELTIC CABLE PATTERN Rep row 1 twice more.
27

Worked over 24 sts Cast off in patt.

▼

Row 1: (P2, C4B, p2) 3 times.

28
11
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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2
1

DISCRETION BY PAT MENCHINI

3

Rep these 2 rib rows 3 more times. ** st at raglan edge on next row, then on every
4

Change to 9mm needles and cont in patt foll alt row, and AT THE SAME TIME dec 1
as folls: st inside front edge on every 6th row from
Row 1 (RS): Knit. previous dec until 12[13:12:13:12] sts rem.
5
2

Row 2: K1, p to last st, k1. Cont dec at raglan edge only on every foll
Row 3: K2, (p1, k1) to last st, k1. alt row until 2 sts rem.
Row 4: K1, p to last st, k1. Work 1 row.
6

Row 5: Knit. Cast off.

Row 6: (K1, p1) to last st, k1.
7

These 6 rows form patt. LEFT FRONT

Cont in patt until work meas 42cm (16½in) Cast on 25[27:31:33:35] sts and work as Back
3

from beg, ending after row 2. to **, inc 1 st at beg of last row on sizes 1, 2
8

Shape raglan and 5 only. 26[28:31:33:36] sts.

Rows 1-2: Cast off 1[2:2:3:3] sts, work to end. Change to 9mm needles.
9

51[53:59:61:67] sts. Sizes 1, 2 and 5 only

Row 3: K1, skpo, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 1: Knit.
Row 4: K1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog Row 2: K1, p to last st, k1.
10

tbl, k1. Row 3: K2, (p1, k1) to end.

4

Row 5: K1, skpo, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 4: K1, p to last st, k1.
11

Row 6: K1, p1, work to last 2 sts, p1, k1. Row 5: Knit.
Rep last 4 rows 0[0:1:1:2] more times, ending Row 6: K2, (p1, k1) to end.
after row 6. 45[47:47:49:49] sts. Sizes 3 and 4 only
12

Now rep rows 5-6 only until 15[15:17:17:19] sts Work rows 1-6 as given on Back.
rem, ending after row 6. All sizes
5

Cast off loosely. Cont in patt until work meas 6 rows less than
13

Back to start of raglan shaping, ending after

SIZES RIGHT FRONT a WS row.
14

To fit: S[M:L:XL:XXL] Cast on 25[27:31:33:35] sts and work as for Shape front slope
91-97[102-107:112-117:122-127:132-137]cm Back to **, inc 1 st at end of last row on sizes Next row (dec) (RS): Work to last 3 sts,
(36-38[40-42:44-46:48-50:52-54]in) 1, 2 and 5 only. 26[28:31:33:36] sts. k2tog, k1.
15

Actual measurement: 107[117:127:137:147]cm Change to 9mm needles. Next row: P2, work to end.
6

(42[46:50:54:58]in) Sizes 1, 2 and 5 only Next row: Work to last 2 sts, k2.
16

Length to centre back excluding collar: Row 1 (RS): Knit. Next row: P2, work to end.
66[67:69:70:71]cm (26[26½:27:27½:28]in) Row 2: K1, p to last st, k1. Work dec row again.
Sleeve length: 46[47:47:47:48]cm Row 3: (K1, p1) to last 2 sts, k2. Next row: P2, work to end.
17

(18[18½:18½:18½:19]in) Row 4: K1, p to last st, k1. 24[26:29:31:34] sts.

Figures in square brackets refer to larger Row 5: Knit. Shape raglan
7
18

sizes: where there is only one set of figures Row 6: (K1, p1) to last 2 sts, k2. Row 1 (RS): Cast off 1[2:2:3:3] sts, work to
this applies to all sizes. Sizes 3 and 4 only last 2 sts, k2. 23[24:27:28:31] sts.
Work rows 1-6 as given for Back. Row 2: P2, work to end.
19

YOU WILL NEED All sizes Row 3: K1, skpo, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Stylecraft Swift Knit Super Chunky Cont in patt until work meas 6 rows fewer Row 4: P2, work to last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, k1.
80% acrylic, 20% wool (approx 60m per 100g) than Back to start of raglan shaping, ending Row 5: K1, skpo, work to last 2 sts, k2.
20

14[15:15:16:16:17] x 100g balls in 2053 Ash after a WS row. Row 6: P2, work to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
8

8mm and 9mm needles Shape front slope Rep last 4 rows 0[0:1:1:2]more times,
21

5 buttons from Duttons for Buttons Next row (dec) (RS): K1, skpo, work to end. ending after row 6. 19[20:19:20:19] sts.
Row counter Next row: Work to last 2 sts, p2. Complete to match Right Front,
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on Next row: K2, work to end. working from *** to end.
22

average requirements and are approximate. Next row: Work to last 2 sts, p2.
Work dec row again. SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
23
9

TENSION Next row: Work to last 2 sts, p2. Cast on 21[21:23:23:25] sts and work as
10 sts and 15 rows to 10cm over patt using Next row: K2, work to end. Back to **.
9mm needles. 24[26:29:31:34] sts. Now work 2 more rows in rib.
24

Use larger or smaller needles if necessary Shape raglan Change to 9mm needles and work rows 1-4
to obtain correct tension. Row 1 (WS): Cast off 1[2:2:3:3] sts, work to of patt as on Back.
25

last 2 sts, p2. 23[24:27:28:31] sts. Cont in patt to match Back, inc 1 st at each
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 Row 2: K1, skpo, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. end of next row, then on every foll 6[6:6:4:4]th
10

Row 3: K1, p2tog, work to last 2 sts, p2. row until there are 35[35:35:35:37] sts, then
26

BACK Row 4: K2, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. on every foll 8[6:6:6:6]th row until there are
With 8mm needles, cast on Row 5: K1, p1, work to last 2 sts, p2. 39[41:43:47:49] sts, taking extra sts into patt.
53[57:63:67:73] sts. Rep last 4 rows 0[0:1:1:2] more times, ending Cont straight until Sleeve meas
27

Row 1 (RS): K2, (p1, k1) to last st, k1. after row 5. 19[20:19:20:19] sts. 46[47:47:47:48]cm (18[18½:18½:18½:19]in) from
Row 2: K1, (p1, k1) to end. *** Cont shaping raglan in this way by dec 1 beg, ending after row 2.
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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
Shape raglan Next row: Knit, casting on 2 sts over those

1
Rows 1-2: Cast off 1[2:2:3:3] sts, work to end. cast off.

3
37[37:39:41:43] sts. Cont in g st, working buttonholes spaced to
Row 3: K1, skpo, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. match markers on Right Front Border until

4
Row 4: K1, p1, work to last 2 sts, p1, k1. final buttonhole has been worked.
Row 5: K2, work to last 2 sts, k2. Work a few rows straight in g st until strip
Row 6: As row 4. matches Right Border to start of neck

5
2
Rep last 4 rows 0[1:1:1:1] more times, ending shaping, ending after an uneven number
after row 6. 35[33:35:37:39] sts. of rows.
Now rep rows 3 and 4 only until 5 sts rem. Shape neck

6
Work 1 row. Work as for Right Border but noting that inc
Cast off. row will be: K1, m1, k to end.

7
RIGHT FRONT BORDER AND LAPEL COLLAR

3
With 8mm needles, cast on 6 sts. With 8mm needles, cast on

8
Work an uneven number of rows in g st to fit 55[59:62:65:68] sts.
along Right Front edge up to start of front Row 1: P2, (k1, p2) to end.

9
slope shaping, allowing for g st to be very Row 2: K2, (p1, k2) to end.
slightly stretched. Rep these 2 rows until side edge fits along
Shape neck cast-off edge of lapel.

10
Row 1 (inc) (RS): K to last st, m1, k1. Shape neck

4
Row 2: Knit. Row 1: Rib to last 3 sts, turn

11
Rep last 2 rows until there are 10 sts, ending Row 2: Sl1 firmly, rib to last 3 sts, turn
after row 2. Rows 3-4: Sl1 firmly, rib to last 6 sts, turn
Next row: As row 1. Rows 5-6: Sl1 firmly, rib to last 9 sts, turn

12
Knit 3 rows. Rows 7-8: Sl1 firmly, rib to last 12 sts, turn
Rep last 4 rows until there are 16 sts. Row 9: Sl1, rib to end.

5
Knit 10 rows. Cast off in rib.

13
Cast off loosely and evenly kwise.
Mark position on border for 5 buttons, first TO FINISH

14
one to be in 3rd and 4th rows, last one a few Omitting Collar, press work lightly on WS,
rows below start of neck edge shaping, and foll pressing instructions.
remaining 3 spaced evenly between. Join raglan shapings, side and Sleeve seams.

15
Stitch side edges of Collar to cast-off edges

6
LEFT FRONT BORDER AND LAPEL of lapels. Sew inner edge of borders and

16
Cast on as Right Border and work 2 rows in Collar to main part. Sew on buttons.
g st. Press seams. ●
Next row: K2, cast off 2 sts, k to end.

17
7
18
19
20
8
21
22
23
9
24
25
10
26
27
▼

Measurements are given in cm

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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2
1

TROYER BY RICO DESIGN

3

Work in rib for a further 3 rows, ending with Cast off rem 17[21] sts.
4

a RS row.
Next row: P35[39], m1, p35[39]. 71[79] sts. FRONT
Cont as folls: Work as given for Back to **
5
2

Row 1: Knit. Work 10[16] rows, dec 1 st at raglan edge as

Row 2: K1, p to last st, k1. set in next and every foll alt row (51 sts).
The last 2 rows form st st with edge sts. Shape neck
6

Cont in st st with edge sts throughout, beg Next row: K1, k2tog, k22, turn, leaving rem
and ending rows with edge sts and then 26 sts on a stitch holder (24 sts).
7

as indicated on Chart, using the Fairisle Working on these 24 sts only, keeping patt
technique and rep the 4-st patt rep, work correct, cont to work from Chart B until all
3

from Chart A as folls: 20 rows are completed, then cont in A only.

8

Note: Edge sts are always worked in the AT THE SAME TIME shape as foll:
colour of the adjacent st. Next row: Purl.
9

Row 1: Reading patt row 1 of Chart A Work 19 rows, dec 1 st at raglan edge on
from right to left, knit to end. Twist yarns next and every foll alt row (14 sts).
together on WS where they meet, to avoid Next row: Cast off 5 sts at neck edge (9 sts).
10

holes forming. Next row: K1, k2tog, k to end (8 sts).

4

Row 2: Reading patt row 2 from left to right Next row: Cast off 4 sts at neck edge (4 sts).
11

and starting with edge st and the st you Next row: K1, k2tog, k to end (3 sts).
ended the last row on, p to end. Next row: Cast off 2 sts (1 st).
Work rows 3-4 of Chart A as set. Pull yarn through rem st and fasten off.
12

Cont in A only until Back meas 43cm (17in). Rejoin yarn to 26 sts left on stitch holder
Shape raglan armholes With RS facing, rejoin yarn to 26 sts left on a
5

Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 63[71] sts. st holder, cast off 1 st, k22, skpo, k1 (24 sts).
13

SIZE Beg and ending rows as indicated and rep Work 20 rows, dec 1 st at raglan edge on
Actual chest: 108[120]cm (42½[47¼]in) the 8-st patt rep across each row, work from next and every foll alt row (14 sts).
14

Length: 68[71]cm (26¾[28]in) Chart B as folls: Shape neck

Sleeve length: 44[44]cm (17½[17½]in) Row 1: Reading row 1 of Chart B from right Next row: Cast off 5 sts, k to last 3 sts, skpo,
Figures in square brackets refer to larger to left, k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, skpo, k1. k1 (8 sts).
15

sizes: where there is only one set of figures Note: Make a note of which Chart st comes Next row: Purl.
6

this applies to all sizes. before edge st at the end of the row. Next row: Cast off 4 sts, k to last 3 sts, skpo,
16

Row 2: Reading patt row 2 from left to right k1 (3 sts).

YOU WILL NEED and rep the 8-st patt rep across each row, Next row: Purl.
Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran starting with edge st and the st you ended Cast off 2 sts at beg of next row (1 st).
17

100% Merino (approx 100m per 50g) the last row on, p to end. Pull yarn through rem st and fasten off.
16[18] x 50g balls in dark petrol 046 (A) The last 2 rows form accentuated raglan
7

SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
18

2[2] x 50g balls in black 090 (B) decs.**

2[2] x 50g balls in olive brown 058 (C) Work 44[48] rows dec 1 st at raglan edge Using 7mm needles, 2 strands of A and
7mm needles as set in next and every foll alt row, cont thumb method cast on 30[34] sts.
19

7mm circular needle 60cm long to work from Chart B until all 20 rows are Work 6 rows in rib as given for Back, inc 1 st
1 closed-end zip 20cm long completed, then cont with A only. 17[21] sts. in centre of last row. 31[35] sts.
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on
20

average requirements and are approximate. Chart A Chart B

8

20
21

TENSION 4
19
18
13 sts and 18 rows to 10cm over st st using 3 17
2 strands of yarn and 7mm needles. 2
22

16
1
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to 15
obtain correct tension. 14
13
23
9

12
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 11
10
24

9
PATTERN NOTE 8
The sweater is worked with 2 strands of yarn 7
Key
25

throughout. 6
5
10

4
BACK A
3
26

Using 7mm needles, 2 strands of A and 2

B 1
thumb method cast on 70[78] sts.
Row 1: *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
27

C
Row 2: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
The last 2 rows form 2x2 rib. D
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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
Cont in st st with edge sts as given for Back.

1
Work 2 rows. TOMDER GWAVEK BY SARAH DENNIS

3
Work 4 rows in Fairisle patt from Chart A as
given for Back, working 4-st patt rep, beg SOCKS (MAKE 2)
Cuff

4
and ending as indicated between edge sts.
Cont in A only, inc 1 st at each end of 3rd Cast on 64 sts, distribute the sts evenly over
and every foll 6th row to 55[59] sts. 3 dpns.

5
2
Cont without shaping until work meas 44cm Rnd 1: *K2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
(19¾in), ending with a WS row. This rnd forms 2x2 rib. Work 14 more rnds
Shape raglan in 2x2 rib.

6
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 47[51] sts. Next rnd: *K2, p2, m1; rep from * to end of
Cont in patt from Chart B as given for Back, rnd (80 sts).

7
beg and ending as indicated between Leg
edge sts. Pm at end of third needle to mark end of rnd.

3
Use accentuated decs as given for Back for Rnd 1: K2 on to third needle, then using

8
all foll raglan shapings. fourth needle *p4, C4B; rep from * to last
Work 4 rows, dec 1 st at each end of first and 6 sts before m, p4, C4B using 2 sts before

9
foll 4th row and foll alt row. 43[47] sts. m and 2 sts after, replace m in the centre of
Left Sleeve last cable.
Work 6 rows, dec 1 st at beg of next and foll Rnd 2: *P4, k4; rep from * to last 6 sts before

10
4th row and AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at m, p4, k2, sm, slip next 2 sts back to first

4
end of 3rd and foll alt row. 39[43] sts. needle.

11
Rep last 6 rows 5[6]times (19 sts). Rnd 3: *T4F, T4B; rep from * to end of rnd, sm.
Work 6 rows, dec 1 st at beg of next and foll Rnd 4: P2, *k4, p4; rep from * to last 6 sts,
4th row (17 sts). k4, p2, sm.

12
Cast off 9 sts at beg of next row (8 sts). Rnd 5: P2, *C4F, p4; rep from * to last 6 sts,
Work 1 row. C4F, p2, sm.

5
Cast off rem 8 sts. Rnd 6: As rnd 4.

13
Right Sleeve SIZE Rnd 7: *T4B, T4F; rep from * to end of rnd, sm.
Work 6 rows, dec 1 st at end of next and foll To fit shoe size: 7-9[9-11:11-13] Rnd 8: K2, *p4, k4; rep from * to last 6 sts,

14
4th row and AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at Foot length: 24[28:29]cm (9½[11:11½]in) p4, k2, sm.
beg of 3rd and foll alt row. 39[43] sts. Figures in square brackets refer to larger Rnd 9: K2 on to third needle, then using
Rep last 6 rows 5[6]times (19 sts). sizes. Where only one figure is given this fourth needle *p4, C4B; rep from * to last

15
Work 6 rows, dec 1 st at end of next and foll applies to all sizes. 6 sts before m, p4, C4B using 2 sts before

6
4th row (17 sts). m and 2 sts after. Move m to after the last

16
Work 1 row. YOU WILL NEED cable for new start of rnd position.
Cast off 9 sts at beg of next row (8 sts). Schachenmayr Regia 4 Ply 75% wool, Rnd 10: *P4, k4; rep from * to end of rnd, sm.
Work 1 row. 25% polyamide (approx 210m per 50g) Rnd 11: *P2, T4B, T4F, p2, k4; rep from, * to

17
Cast off rem 8 sts. 3[3:3] x 50g balls in 1991 Silver-grey end of rnd, sm.
Set of 4 or 5 x 3mm double-pointed needles Rnd 12: *P2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k4; rep from * to

7
COLLAR

18
Stitch markers end of rnd, sm.
Join raglan seams. Stitch holder Rnd 13: *P2, k2, p4, k2, p2, C4B; rep from *
With WS facing, using 2 strands of A and Cable needle to end of rnd, sm.

19
7mm circular needle, pick up and knit 7[8] Row counter Rnd 14: As rnd 12.
sts evenly along left side of neck, 14[14] sts Tapestry needle (for grafting) Rnd 15: *P2, T4F, T4B, p2, k4; rep from * to
from top of left Sleeve, 15[17] sts from back Note: Yarn amounts given are based on end of rnd, sm.

20
of neck, 14[14] sts from top of right Sleeve average requirements and are approximate. Rnd 16: *P4, k4; rep from * to last 8 sts

8
and 7[8] sts evenly along right side of neck. before m, p4, k2, pm on RH needle for

21
57[61] sts. TENSION new start of rnd, slip next 2 sts back to first
Beg with row 2, work in st st with edge sts as 36 sts and 40 rnds to 10cm over cable patt. needle. Remove old start of rnd marker.
given for Back until Collar meas 13cm (5in) Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to Rnd 17: As rnd 1.
22
from pick-up row, ending with RS of Collar obtain correct tension. Rnd 18: As rnd 2.
(WS of body) facing for next row. Rnd 19: As rnd 3.
23
9

Work 4 rows in Fairisle patt from Chart A. ABBREVIATIONS Rnd 20: As rnd 4.
Cont in A until Collar meas 22cm (8¾in), C4B = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at back Rnd 21: As rnd 5.
from pick-up row, ending with RS of Collar of work, k2, then k2 from cn Rnd 22: As rnd 4.
24

(WS of body) facing for next row. C4F = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at front Rnd 23: As rnd 7.
Cast off. of work, k2, then k2 from cn Rnd 24: As rnd 8.
25

T4B = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at back Rnd 25: As rnd 1.

TO FINISH of work, k2, then p2 from cn Rnd 26: As rnd 2.
10

Join side and Sleeve seams. Insert zip T4F = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at front Rnd 27: *T4F, p2, k4, p2, T4B; rep from * to
26

into Front opening. Pin out sweater to the of work, p2, then k2 from cn end of rnd, sm.
measurements given. Cover with clean, damp For more abbreviations see page 91 Rnd 28: *P2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2; rep from *
tea towels and leave until dry. See ball band to end of rnd, sm.
27

for washing and further care instructions. ● Rnd 29: *P2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k2, p2; rep
▼

from * to end of rnd, sm.

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cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Rnd 30: As rnd 28. twice, p2, k4, p2, k1, skpo, k13 (70 sts).
1

Rnd 31: *T4B, p2, k4, p2, T4F; rep from * to Rnd 15: K15, (p2, k4, p2, T4F, T4B) twice, p2,
3

end of rnd, sm. k4, p2, k15.

Rnd 32: K2, *p4, k4; rep from * to last 6 sts, Rnd 16: K12, k2tog, k1, p2, (k4, p4) 4 times,
4

p4, k2, sm. k4, p2, k1, skpo, k12 (68 sts).
Rnds 1 to 32 form cable patt. Foot
Rep rnds 1 to 32 once more. Leg should Working sole in st st and keeping cable patt
5
2

meas approx 20cm (8in) from cast-on edge on top of foot correct as set for leg, cont
at this point. If you want a longer leg, you without shaping until foot meas 20[24:25]cm
can work extra rnds here, but ensure you (8[9½:9¾]in) from back of heel, ending with
6

end on rnd 32 of patt. row 16 or 32 of pattern. If you want a longer

Heel (or shorter) foot, you can work extra (or
7

Next rnd: *K2tog, k4, skpo; rep from * twice fewer) rows here until foot meas 4cm (1½in)
more, k2tog, k2, turn. less than desired finished length, ending
3

Next rnd: P21, p2tog tbl, p4, p2tog, p2tog with row 16 or 32 of patt.
8

tbl, p2, turn. Next rnd: Remove marker, k14, p2tog,

Place the last 30 sts just worked on to 1 dpn (skpo, k2tog, p4) 4 times, skpo, k2tog, p2tog
9

and work heel in rows from this point. tbl, k28, pm (56 sts).
Leave rem 40 sts on a stitch holder. Current position will now mark start of rnd.
Row 1 (RS): *Sl1, k1; rep from * to end of row. Toe
10

Row 2: Sl1, p to end. Rnd 1: K1, skpo, k22, k2tog, k1; rep from *
4

Rep rows 1 and 2 eleven more times. once more (52 sts).
11

Turn heel Rnd 2 and every foll alt rnd: Knit.

Row 1 (RS): K19, skpo, k1, turn. Rnd 3: K1, skpo, k20, k2tog, k1; rep from *
Row 2: Sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn. once more (48 sts).
12

Row 3: Sl1, k10, skpo, k1, turn. Rnd 5: K1, skpo, k18, k2tog, k1; rep from *
Row 4: Sl1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn. once more (44 sts).
5

Row 5: Sl1, k12, skpo, k1, turn. Rnd 7: K1, skpo, k16, k2tog, k1; rep from *
13

Row 6: Sl1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn. once more (40 sts).
Row 7: Sl1, k14, skpo, k1, turn. Rnd 9: K1, skpo, k14, k2tog, k1; rep from *
14

Row 8: Sl1, p15, p2tog, p1, turn. once more (36 sts).
Row 9: Sl1, k16, skpo, k1, turn. Rnd 11: K1, skpo, k12, k2tog, k1; rep from *
Row 10: Sl1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn (20 sts). once more (32 sts).
15

Instep Rnd 13: K1, skpo, k10, k2tog, k1; rep from *
6

Next rnd: Using first dpn, k20, pick up and once more (28 sts).
16

knit 12 sts along side of heel; using second Rnd 15: K1, skpo, k8, k2tog, k1; rep from *
dpn work across 40 sts on stitch holder as once more (24 sts).
folls: p2, (C4B, p4) 4 times, C4B, p2; using Rnd 16: Knit.
17

third dpn pick up and knit 12 sts along other Rearrange the sts so that there are 12 sts
side of heel, k10, pm (84 sts). each on two needles, with the yarn end at
7
18

Work in rnds from this point (centre back of the RH side.

heel), which will now be the start of every Break yarn, leaving a 40cm (15¾in) length for
rnd. The top of the sock (40 sts) will be grafting.
19

worked in the cable pattern and the sole will

be worked in st st. TO FINISH
Rnd 2: K19, k2tog, k1, p2, (k4, p4) 4 times, k4, Graft toe using Kitchener stitch
20

p2, k1, skpo, k19 (82 sts). Thread the yarn through the tapestry
8

Rnd 3: K21, (T4B, T4F) 5 times, k21. needle.

21

Rnd 4: K18, k2tog, k3, (p4, k4) 4 times, p4, Hold the needles parallel with the yarn
k3, skpo, k18 (80 sts). hanging down at the back right of the work.
Rnd 5: K22, (p4, C4F) 4 times, p4, k22. Put needle pwise into first st on front needle
22

Rnd 6: K17, k2tog, k3, (p4, k4) 4 times, p4, k3, and pull yarn through.
skpo, k17 (78 sts). Put needle kwise into first st on back needle
23
9

Rnd 7: K19, (T4F, T4B) 5 times, k19. and pull yarn through.
Rnd 8: K16, k2tog, k1, p2, (k4, p4) 4 times, k4, *Put needle kwise into first st on front
p2, k1, skpo, k16 (76 sts). needle and slip st off.
24

Rnd 9: K18, p2, (C4B, p4) 4 times, C4B, p2, k18. Put needle pwise into next st on front
Rnd 10: K15, k2tog, k1, p2, (k4, p4) 4 times, needle and pull yarn through.
25

k4, p2, k1, skpo, k15 (74 sts). Put needle pwise into first st on back needle
Rnd 11: K17, (p2, k4, p2, T4B, T4F) twice, p2, and slip st off.
10

k4, p2, k17. Put needle kwise into next st on back needle
26

Rnd 12: K14, k2tog, k1, (p2, k4, p2, k2, p4, k2) and pull yarn through.
twice, p2, k4, p2, k1, skpo, k14 (72 sts). Rep from * until all sts have been grafted.
Rnd 13: K16, (p2, C4B, p2, k2, p4, k2) twice, Weave in ends. ●
27

p2, C4B, p2, k16.

Rnd 14: K13, k2tog, k1, (p2, k4, p2, k2, p4, k2)
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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
1
PENGUIN BY MAISIE SMITH

3
82[86:94:98] sts. B, (p5[7:7:9]B, work across row 2 of Chart B)

4
Rib row 1: K2, (p2, k2) to end. 3 times, p4[4:7:7]B.
Rib row 2: P2, (k2, p2) to end. These 2 rows set patt.
Break C. Cont in patt to end of row 29.

5
2
Join A. Work 3 rows in B.
Rep last 2 rows 3[4:5:6] times, inc 1[3:1:3] sts Next row (RS): K5B, (k1A, k5B) 13[14:15:16]
evenly across last row. times.

6
83[89:95:101] sts. Next row: P1A, (p3B, p3A) 13[14:15:16] times,
Change to 3.25mm needles. p3B, p1A.

7
Beg with a k row, work in st st. Next row: K2A, k1B, (k5A, k1B) 13[14:15:16]
Work 2 rows. times, k2A.

3
Set Chart A. Cont in A.

8
Row 1 (RS): K1[4:2:0]A, k across 10-st patt Work 3[7:11:15] rows.
rep 8[8:9:10] times, k last st of Chart, Shape neck

9
k1[4:2:0]A. Next row: Patt 32[34:36:38], turn and work
Row 2 (WS): P1[4:2:0]A, p1 first st of Chart, on these sts for first side of neck shaping.
p across 10-st patt rep 8[8:9:10] times, Next row: P2tog tbl, p to end.

10
p1[4:2:0]A. Next row: K to last 2 sts, skpo.

4
These 2 rows set patt. Rep last 2 rows 4 times. 22[24:26:28] sts.

11
Work a further 9 rows. Work 1 row.
Cont in A only **. Shape shoulder
Work a further 95[107:119:131] rows. Cast off 7[8:9:10] sts at beg of next and foll

12
Shape shoulders RS row.
SIZES Cast off 7[8:9:10] sts at beg of next 4 rows Work 1 row.

5
To fit: Age 12-18mths[2-3:4-5:6-7]yrs and 8 sts at beg of foll 2 rows. Cast off rem 8 sts.

13
Actual measurement: 64[70:76:82]cm Leave rem 39[41:43:45] sts on a spare needle. With RS facing, slip centre 19[21:23:25] sts on
(25¼[27½:30:32¼]in) to a holder, rejoin yarns to rem sts, k to end.

14
Length to shoulder: 34[38:42:46]cm FRONT Next row: P to last 2 sts, p2tog.
(13½[15:16½:18]in) Work as given for Back to **. Next row: K2tog, k to end.
Sleeve length: 21[25:29:33]cm (8½[10:11½:13]in) Work a further 39[47:55:63] rows. Rep last 2 rows 4 times. 22[24:26:28] sts.

15
Figures in square brackets refer to larger Set penguin patt Work 2 rows.

6
sizes: where there is only one set of figures Row 1: K2A, k1B, (k5A, k1B) 13[14:15:16] Shape shoulder

16
this applies to all sizes. times, k2A. Cast off 7[8:9:10] sts at beg of next and foll
Row 2: P1A, (p3B, p3A) 13[14:15:16] times, WS row.
YOU WILL NEED p3B, p1A. Work 1 row.

17
Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino Row 3: K5B, (k1A, k5B) 13[14:15:16] times. Cast off rem 8 sts.
55% wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere Break A.

7
SLEEVES (MAKE 2)

18
(approx 125m per 50g) Work 3 rows in B.
4[4:5:5] x 50g balls in 34 Red (A) Work in patt from Chart B as foll: With 3mm needles and C cast on
1 x 50g ball in 100 White (B) Row 1 (RS): K4[4:7:7]B, work across row 1 34[38:42:46] sts.

19
1x 50g ball in 300 Black (C) of Chart B, (k5[7:7:9]B, work across row 1 Rib row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) to end.
1 x 50g ball in 92 Orange (D) of Chart B) 3 times, k4[4:7:7]B. Rib row 2: P2, (k2, p2) to end.
3mm and 3.25mm needles Row 2: P4[4:7:7]B, work across row 2 of Chart Break C.

20
Stitch holders

8
Row counter

21
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on
average requirements and are approximate.
22
TENSION
25 sts and 34 rows to 10cm over st st using
23
9

3.25mm needles.
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to
obtain correct tension.
24

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91

25

PATTERN NOTE
10

Use small amounts of yarn for each colour

26

when working from Charts, twisting yarns on

WS to avoid holes forming.
27

BACK
With 3mm needles and C cast on Measurements are given in cm
28
11
29

for pattern updates see knittingmag.com 83

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 83 22/11/2017 16:03

cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Join A. With RS facing, using 3mm needles and A,

1

Rep last 2 rows 3[4:5:6] times, inc 3 sts evenly pick up and k18 sts down left side of Front
3

across last row. 37[41:45:49] sts. neck, k19[21:23:25] sts across Front neck,
Change to 3.25mm needles. pick up and k18 sts up right side of Front
4

Work 2 rows. neck, k39[41:43:45] sts across Back neck.

Set Chart A. 94[98:102:106] sts.
Row 1 (RS): K8[5:7:4]A, k across 10-st patt rep Rib row 1 (RS): P2, (k2, p2) to end.
5
2

2[3:3:4] times, k last st of Chart, k8[5:7:4]A. Rib row 2 (WS): K2, (p2, k2) to end.
Row 2 (WS): P3[5:2:4]A, p first st of Chart, p Rep last 2 rows 1[1:2:2] times and row 1
across 10-st patt rep 3[3:4:4] times, p3[5:2:4]A. again.
6

These 2 rows set 11-row patt. Break A.

Work to end of Chart A and then cont in A Join C.
7

only to end of Sleeve. AT THE SAME TIME, Work 2 rows.

keeping patt correct, work incs as folls: Cast off in rib.
3

Work a further 4 rows.

8

Inc row: K3, m1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k3. TO FINISH

Work 3 rows. Join left shoulder and neckband seam.
9

Rep last 4 rows 8[9:11:12] more times and inc Matching centre of cast-off edge of Sleeve
row again. 57[63:71:77] sts. to shoulder, join side and Sleeve seams. ●
Cont straight until Sleeve meas 21[25:29:33]
10

cm (8½[10:11½:13]in) from cast-on edge,

4

ending with a WS row.

11

Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 8[8:10:10] rows.

17[23:21:27] sts.
12

NECKBAND
Join right shoulder seam.
5
13
14

Chart A Chart B
15
6
16
17
7
18
19
20
8
21
22
23
9
24
25
10
26
27
28
11
29

84 for pattern updates see knittingmag.com

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 84 16/11/2017 16:52


SEILAND JUMPER, HAT AND SOCKS BY DROPS DESIGN
SIZES
Jumper
To fit: Age 2[3-4:5-6:7-8:9-10:11-12] years
Actual measurement: 64[68:72:76:80:84]cm
(25[27:28½:30:31½:33]in)
Length to shoulder: 38[42:46:50:54:58]cm
(15[16½:18:19½:21:23]in)
Sleeve length: 20[24:28:32:36:39]cm
(7¾[9½:11:12½:14¼:15¼]in)
Hat
To fit: Age 2[3-4:5-8:9-12] years.
Actual circumference:
48-50[50-52:52-54:54-56]cm
(19-19¾[19¾-20½:20½- 21¼: 21¼-22]in)
Socks
To fit shoe size:
UK 7-7½[8½-10:11-12½:13-2:2½:2½-4]
(EU 24-25[26-28:29-31:32-34:35-37])
Foot length: 15[17:18:20:22]cm (6[6¾:7:8:8½]in)
Leg length to heel: 14[15:16:17:18]cm
(5½[6:6¼:6¾:7]in)
Figures in square brackets refer to larger
sizes: where there is only one set of figures
this applies to all sizes.
YOU WILL NEED
Drops Merino Extra Fine 100% Merino
(approx 105m per 50g)
Jumper
5[5:6:7:7:8] x 50g balls in 31 Forest Green (A)
2 x 50g balls in 08 Light Beige (B)
1 x 50g ball in 28 North Sea (C)
1 x 50g ball in 30 Mustard (D)
4mm circular needle 60cm or 80cm long
3.5mm and 4mm circular needles 40cm long
(or double-pointed needles)
2 stitch holders
2 stitch markers
for pattern updates see knittingmag.com
K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 85
cm
in
PATTERNS
1
2
1
3
Hat Short row 2: Tighten yarn,
4
1 x 50g ball in 31 Forest Green (A) k21[21:24:24:27:27], turn, tighten yarn,
1 x 50g ball in 08 Light Beige (B) p28[28:32:32:36:36]. Turn.
2.5mm and 3mm circular needles 40cm long Short row 3: Tighten yarn,
5
2
8 stitch markers or coloured thread k35[35:40:40:45:45], turn, tighten yarn,
Socks p42[42:48:48:54:54]. Turn, tighten yarn and k
1[2:2:2:2] x 50g balls in 31 Forest Green (A) back to m.
6
1 x 50g ball in 08 Light Beige (B) Knit 0[0:2:3:0:2] rnds.
1 x 50g ball in 28 North Sea (C) Set Jumper Chart A1
7
1 x 50g ball in 30 Mustard (D) Working from Jumper Chart A1 for your size,
3.5mm double-pointed needles work 6-st patt rep 13[14:14:15:15:16] times
3
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on around.
8
average requirements and are approximate. Work to end of Chart, inc as indicated on
Chart on 3rd, 5th and 7th rnds and on rnds
9
TENSION marked with arrows as folls:
21 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over st st using On rnd marked with Arrow 1 work in patt
4mm needles. as shown, inc 18 sts evenly across rnd.
10
22 sts and 50 rows to 10cm over st st using 135[144:144:153:153:162] sts.
4
3.5mm needles. Cont with Chart A1, working 9-st patt rep
11
23 sts and 32 rows to 10cm over st st using 15[16:16:17:17:18] times around.
3mm needles. On rnd marked with Arrow 2 inc
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary 21[24:24:27:27:30] sts evenly around.
12
to obtain correct tension. 156[168:168:180:180:192] sts.
Work to end of Chart A1.
5
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 Set Jumper Chart A2
13
Working from Jumper Chart A2 for your
TIPS size, work 12-st patt rep 13[14:14:15:15:16]
14
When working from the colour charts use times around. Work to end of Chart, inc
the Fairisle technique, stranding yarn not in as indicated on Chart on rnds 4[4:4:4:5:5],
use loosely across back of work. If you find 8[8:8:8:9:9] and 12[12:12:12:14:14]. In rnd
15
the tension is affected by stranding, change marked with Arrow 3 inc 4[0:12:0:12:8] sts
6
to a smaller-sized needle to tighten up or a evenly around. 212[224:236:240:252:264] sts.
16
larger-sized needle to loosen the work. Set Jumper Chart A3
Read charts from R to L. Working from Jumper Chart A3 for your size,
To work out how to decrease evenly, count work 4-st patt rep 53[56:59:60:63:66] times
17
the total number of stitches on the needle around.
(eg 52 stitches) and divide by the number At end of Chart A3, work should
7
18
of decreases to be made (eg 4) = 13. In this meas approx 17[17:18:19:20:21]cm
example, knit every 12th and 13th stitch (6¾[6¾:7:7½:7¾:8¼]in from cast-on edge at
together. mid-front.
19
Divide for armhole
PATTERN NOTES Next rnd: Using B k31[33:35:36:38:40] sts (ie
Jumper is worked in the round from the first half of back), slip next 45[47:49:49:51:53]
20
neck downwards. sts to a holder for Sleeve, cast on 6[6:6:8:8:8]
8
Work from the Charts indicated for chosen sts, k61[65:69:71:75:79] sts (ie front), slip
21
size for jumper and socks. next 45[47:49:49:51:53] sts to a second
Hat is worked from Chart A7. holder for Sleeve, cast on 6[6:6:8:8:8] sts,
k30[32:34:35:37:39] rem sts (ie second half of
22
JUMPER back). 134[142:150:158:166:174] sts for Body.
Cut yarn. Finish Body and Sleeves
23
9
BODY separately.
With 3.5mm dpns or short circular needle
and C, cast on 84[88:88:96:96:100] sts. BODY
24
Being careful not to twist sts, join to a rnd, Rejoin yarn in middle of 6[6:6:8:8:8] sts cast
pm to denote start of rnd (mid-back). on under Sleeve.
Set Jumper Chart A4
25
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end. Work Jumper Chart A4 across all sizes, inc
10
Rep rib rnd until work meas 3cm (1¼in). 2 sts evenly on first rnd and working 8-st
26
Next rnd (dec): Knit, dec 6[4:4:6:6:4] sts patt rep 17[18:19:20:21:22] times around.
evenly around. 78[84:84:90:90:16] sts. 136[144:152:160:168:176] sts.
Shape Back neck Set Jumper Chart A5
27
Short row 1: K7[7:8:8:9:9], turn, tighten yarn, Work Jumper Chart A5 across all sizes,
▼
p14[14:16:16:18:18] turn. working 8-st patt rep 17[18:19:20:21:22]
28
11
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85
16/11/2017 16:52
cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

times around. Rep Chart A5 until work TO FINISH (6[6¼:6¾:6¾]in), insert 8 markers,
1

meas approx 13[17:20:23:26:29]cm Weave in all loose ends. 12[13:13:14] sts between each marker.
3

(5[6¾:8:9:10¼:11½]in) from armhole. Adjust Shape crown

length so that either 2 or 4 rnds have been HAT Next rnd (dec): (K to m, sm, skpo) around.
4

worked after a rnd with dots. With 2.5mm circular needle and A, cast on 88[96:96:104] sts.
Set Jumper Chart A6 104[112:112:120] sts. Next rnd: Knit.
Work Jumper Chart A6 across all sizes, Next rnd: Knit. Rep last 2 rnds until 48 sts rem, ending on a
5
2

working 4-st patt rep 34[36:38:40:42:44] Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end of rnd. knit rnd.
times around. When Chart A6 has been Rep last rnd until rib meas 3cm (1¼in). Next rnd: K2tog around (24 sts).
completed, work should meas approx Change to 3mm circular needle. Rep last rnd (12 sts).
6

17[21:24:27:30:33]cm (6¾[8¼:9½:10½:11¾:13] Next rnd: Knit, dec 8 sts evenly around. Hat should meas approx 20[21:22:23]cm
in) from armhole. 96[104:104:112] stitches. (7¾[8¼:8¾:9]in) from top.
7

Next rnd (inc): Knit, inc 24[28:28:32:32:32] sts Work Chart A7 across all sizes, working 8-st Cut yarn and thread through rem sts,
evenly around. 160[172:180:192:200:208] sts. patt rep 12[13:13:14] times around. pull to tighten together and fasten.
3

Change to 3.5mm circular needle. At end of Chart A7 cont in B only.

8

Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end. Cont in st st until Hat meas 15[16:17:17]cm
Rep rib rnd until rib meas 4cm (1½in).
9

Cast off in rib but to avoid a tight cast-off Jumper Charts

edge make 1 yo after every 4th st and cast
off yarn overs as sts.
10

Work should meas approx

4

38[42:46:50:54:58]cm
11

(15[16½:18¼:19¾:21¼:22¾]in) from shoulder.

SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE)

12

Slip 45[47:49:49:51:53] sts from one

holder on to 4mm dpns, pick up 1 st
5

in each of the 6[6:6:8:8:8] sts cast on

13

under Sleeve, pm1 in middle of these

6[6:6:8:8:8] sts to denote start of rnd, pm2
14

on 26th[27th:28th:29th:30th] st of rnd (on

top of Sleeve) to mark centre st of rnd.
51[53:55:57:59:61] sts. Hat Chart
15

Read all foll Sleeve instructions before

6

continuing:
16

Begin at pm1, work Jumper Chart A4

around, starting at 3rd[2nd:1st:8th:3rd:2nd]
st of patt rep (st marked with pm2 should
17

now correspond to 4th Chart st).

Cont to end of Chart A4.
7
18

Work Jumper Chart A5 to end, adjusting so

that Chart fits nicely over A4 (lining up pm2
with a dot).
19

AT THE SAME TIME when piece meas 2cm

(¾in), work dec rnd as folls:
Dec rnd: Patt to 2 sts before pm1, k2tog,
20

sm, skpo, patt to end of rnd. Key

8

Work dec rnd every 3[3:5:5:7:6]cm North Sea (C)

21

(1¼[1¼:2:2:2¾:2¼]in) 5[6:5:6:5:6] times to Light Beige (B)

41[41:45:45:49:49] sts. Mustard (D)
When Sleeve meas approx 12[16:20:24:28:31]cm
22

Forest Green (A)

(4¾[5½:7¾:9½:11:12¼]in) from armhole, make yo (on next rnd knit this st
adjustment so that 2 or 4 rnds in A have been tbl to avoid hole)
23
9

worked after a dot rnd. increase round

Now work Jumper Chart A6, starting first Sock Charts
rnd so that Chart fits nicely over dots in A5.
24

At end of Chart A6, change to 3.5mm dpns.

Next rnd (dec): Knit in A, dec 1 st.
25

40[40:44:44:48:48] sts.
Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end of rnd.
10

Rep rib rnd for 4cm (1½in).

26

Sleeve should meas approx

20[24:28:32:36:39]cm
(7¾[9½:11:12½:14¼:15¼]in) from armhole.
27

Cast off in rib as for bottom of Body.

Work second Sleeve the same.
28
11
29

86 for pattern updates see knittingmag.com

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 cm
in
PATTERNS

1
2
TO FINISH Chart A3 around (5[5:6:6:6] x 8-st patt rep),

1
Weave in loose ends. Make a pompom with decreasing 4[0:4:0:0] sts evenly on rnd IDUNN WRIST

3
A with an approx diameter of 4-5cm (1¾-2in)
and fasten to tip of hat.
marked with Arrow 2. 36[40:44:48:48] sts.
When Chart A3 has been completed, cont in
WARMERS
BY CHRISTINE BOGGIS

4
A in st st until piece meas 14[15:16:17:18]cm
SOCKS (5½[6:6¼:6¾:7]in).
Shape heel

5
PATTERN NOTES

2
Next rnd: Keep the first 9[10:11:12:12]
Sock is worked from the top down in the sts on the needle for heel, place next
round on double-pointed needles. 18[20:22:24:24] sts on scrap yarn for mid-top

6
Decreasing for toe of foot and keep the last 9[10:11:12:12] sts on
To decrease before marker, start 2 sts before the needle for heel. See Pattern Notes for

7
m and k2tog. To decrease after marker, sm, heel tip.
skpo. Work back and forth in st st over

3
Heel 18[20:22:24:24] heel sts for 4½[4½:5½:5½:5½]

8
To strengthen the heel you can use two cm (1¾[1¾:2¼:2¼:2¼]in).
strands when working heel and heel Pm in middle of row – piece will now be

9
decreases as folls: Use the strand from the measured from this point.
inside and outside of the ball and work 1 Heel decrease
st alternately with the one then the other Row 1 (RS): Work to last 5[6:7:8:8] sts, skpo,

10
strand. In this way, you get a slightly thicker turn.

4
heel without using a double strand. Row 2: Work to last 5[6:7:8:8] sts, slip next st

11
as if to p, p1, psso, turn.
SOCK (MAKE 2) Row 3: Work to last 4[5:6:7:7] sts, skpo, turn.
Using C cast on 44[44:48:52:52] sts. Join in Row 4: Work to last 4[5:6:7:7] sts, slip next st

12
the round, taking care not to twist sts. as if to p, p1, psso, turn.
Knit 1 rnd. Cont to dec as set, working 1 st fewer before

5
Set rib each dec until there are 10 sts left on the

13
Rnd 1: (K2, p2) around. needle, ending with a WS row. SIZE
Rep rnd 1 until rib meas 3cm (1¼in). Next rnd: K across 10 heel sts, pick up and To fit: Average woman’s hands

14
Next rnd: Knit, dec 2[2:0:4:4] sts evenly knit 10[10:12:12:12] sts up side of heel, pm, Length: 23cm (9in)
around. 42[42:48:48:48] sts. slip 18[20:22:24:24] sts on scrap yarn back to
Set Sock Charts needles and work across them, pm, pick up YOU WILL NEED

15
Work Sock Chart A1 across all sizes, working and knit 10[10:12:12:12] sts down side of heel. Rico Fashion Bisous 44% cotton,

6
6-st patt rep 7[7:8:8:8] times, and dec 48[50:56:58:58] sts. 22% acrylic, 17% alpaca, 17% wool

16
2[2:0:0:0] sts evenly on rnd marked with Shape foot (approx 110m per 50g)
Arrow 1. 40[40:48:48:48] sts. Cont in the rnd in st st in A, decreasing as 1 x 50g ball in 004 Grey
When Chart A1 has been completed, folls: 6mm double-pointed needles

17
work next rnd as folls: Rnd 1 (dec): K to 2 sts before m at start of OR 6mm circular needle for magic loop
Sizes 1 and 2 only top of foot, k2tog tbl, sm, k across top of Stitch marker

7
18
Work Sock Chart A2B around (4 x 10-st patt foot sts, sm, k to end of rnd. Stitch holder
rep). Rnd 2: Knit. Cable needle
Sizes 3, 4 and 5 only Rep these 2 rounds a total of 6[6:8:8:8] times. Note: Yarn amounts are based on average

19
Work Sock Chart A2A over first 4 sts, work 36[38:40:42:42] sts. Remove top of foot requirements and are approximate.
Sock Chart A2B over next 40 sts (4 x 10-st markers.
patt rep), work Sock Chart A2C over last 4 sts. Cont without shaping until piece meas TENSION

20
All sizes 11[13:14:16:18]cm from heel marker. 17 sts and 23 rows to 10cm over st st.

8
Continue in patt as set until Sock Charts Shape toe Use larger or smaller needles to obtain

21
A2 have been completed, then work Sock Insert a new marker on each side so that correct tension.
there are 18[19:20:21:21] stitches
both on top of and underneath ABBREVIATIONS 22
the foot. C6B = cable 6 back: sl3 sts to cn and hold at
Cont in the round in st st and AT back, k3, k3 from cn
23
9

THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each C6F = cable 6 front: sl3 sts to cn and hold at
side of both markers for toe (see tip front, k3, k3 from cn
in Pattern Notes). Dec in this way Kfpb = knit into the front of the next stitch,
24

every second rnd a total of 6[6:5:5:5] do not slip off the needle, purl into the back
times and then every rnd a total of of the same stitch (inc 1)
25

0[0:2:2:2] times. 12[14:12:14:14] sts. M1L = pick up the bar between the stitch
Next rnd: (K2tog) around. you have just knitted and the one you’re
10

6[7:6:7:7] sts. about to knit, bringing the needle from front

26

Break yarn, pull it through rem sts, to back, then knit into the back of it
pull tight and fasten well. M1R = pick up the bar between the stitch
you have just knitted and the one you’re
27

TO FINISH about to knit, bringing the needle from

Weave in ends. ● back to front, then knit it
▼

28
11
29

for pattern updates see knittingmag.com 87

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 87 16/11/2017 16:52

cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

For more abbreviations see page 91

1

FRED THE MOUSE

3

PATTERN NOTE BY EMMA VARNAM

This one-ball project used almost the entire
4

ball. You may want to buy an extra ball or do

one pattern repeat fewer on the wrists to be
sure you have enough yarn to complete the
5
2

project.

LEFT GLOVE
6

*Cast on 28 sts, join to work in the round

and pm to mark beg of rnd.
7

Rnd 1: (K2, p2) around.

Rep rnd 1 three times.
3

Set cable patt

8

Rnd 1: P1, k12, p1, k to end.

Rnd 2: As rnd 1.
9

Rnd 3: P1, C6B, C6F, p1, k to end.

Rnds 4-6: As rnd 1.
Rep rnds 1-6 two more times.*
10

Shape gusset
4

Cont repeating six-rnd cable patt as set,

11

shaping as folls:
Rnd 1: Kfpb, patt to end (29 sts).
Rnd 2: M1L, k1, m1R, patt to end (31 sts).
12

Rnd 3: K3, patt to end.

Rnd 4: M1L, k3, m1R, patt to end (33 sts).
5

Rnd 5: K5, patt to end.

13

Rnd 6: M1L, k5, m1R, patt to end (35 sts). FINISHED SIZE
Rnd 7: K7, patt to end. Height: Approx 30cm (12in)
14

Rnd 8: M1L, k7, m1R, patt to end (37 sts).

Rnd 9: K9, patt to end. YOU WILL NEED
**Cont in patt as set by rnd 9 until six full Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino
15

patt reps have been completed in total. 55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere
6

Divide for thumb (125m per 50g ball)

16

Next rnd: Patt as set, slipping 9 inc’d sts to 2 x 50g balls in 012 Silver (A)
a holder and continuing on rem 28 sts only. 1 x 50g ball in 207 Indigo (B)
Cont as now set on 28 rem sts, keeping 25g in 008 Navy (C)
17

patt correct, until 8 full patt reps have been 25g in 066 Amber (D)
completed. Small amount in 100 White (E)
7
18

Next rnd: (K2, p2) around. Small amount in 300 Black (F)
Rep last rnd 3 more times. 2 x 10mm safety eyes
Cast off in rib. 2 x 9mm buttons
19

3.5mm crochet hook

THUMB Tapestry needle
Slip 9 sts from holder on to needles then Safety pin
20

pick up and k3 sts from side of hand (12 sts). Polyester toy stuffing
8

Work 4 rnds in (k2, p2) rib. Cast off in rib. Light pink embroidery thread
21

Approx 30cm (12in) of elastic cord for

RIGHT GLOVE waistband
Work as for Left Glove from * to *. Note: Yarn amounts given are based on
22

Shape gusset average requirements and are approximate.

Rnd 1: Patt 14, kfb, k to end (29 sts).
23
9

Rnd 2: Patt 14, m1L, k1, m1R, k to end (31 sts). ABBREVIATIONS
Rnd 3: Patt 14, k to end. dc2inc = double crochet increase by
Rnd 4: Patt 14, m1L, k3, m1R, k to end (33 sts). one stitch.
24

Rnd 5: As rnd 3. dc2tog = double crochet two stitches

Rnd 6: Patt 14, m1L, k5, m1R, k to end (35 sts). together (dec 1)
25

Rnd 7: As rnd 3. sl st = slip stitch

Rnd 8: Patt 14, m1L, k7, m1R, k to end (37 sts). For more abbreviations see page 91.
10

Rnd 9: Patt 14, k to end.

26

Work as for Left Glove from ** to end. EARS (MAKE 2)

Using 3.5mm hook and A, make a magic
TO FINISH ring.
27

Weave in ends. ● Rnd 1: 1 ch, 6 dc into the centre of the ring

(6 sts).
28
11
29

88 for pattern updates see knittingmag.com

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 88 22/11/2017 16:03


Rnd 2: 2 dc in every st (12 sts).
Rnd 3: (1 dc, dc2inc) 6 times (18 sts).
Rnd 4: (2 dc, dc2inc) 6 times (24 sts).
Rnds 5-8: 1 dc in each st around.
Rnd 9: (2 dc, dc2tog) 6 times (18 sts).
Rnd 10: (1 dc, dc2tog) 6 times (12 sts).
Rnds 11-12: 1 dc in each st around.
Fasten off, leaving a 20cm (8in) tail.
Flatten ear. Using the yarn tail, sew these
layers together.
HEAD
Using 3.5mm hook and A, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 1 ch, 8 dc into the centre of the ring
(8 sts).
Rnd 2: (1 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (12 sts).
Rnd 3: (2 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (16 sts).
Rnd 4: (3 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (20 sts).
Rnd 5: (4 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (24 sts).
Rnd 6: (5 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (28 sts).
Rnd 7: (6 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (32 sts).
Rnd 8: (7 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (36 sts).
Rnd 9: (8 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (40 sts).
Rnd 10: (9 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (44 sts).
Rnd 11: (10 dc, dc2inc) 4times (48 sts).
Rnds 12-17: 1 dc in each st around.
Make slots for ears
Rnd 18: 16 dc, 5 ch, miss 5 sts, 6 dc, 5 ch,
miss 5 sts, 16 dc.
Rnd 19: 1 dc in each dc and each ch.
Rnd 20: 1 dc in each st around.
Rnd 21: (6 dc, dc2tog) 6 times (42 sts).
Rnd 22: (5 dc, dc2tog) 6 times (36 sts).
Rnd 23: (4 dc, dc2tog) 6 times (30 sts).
Rnd 24: (3 dc, dc2tog) 6 times (24 sts).
Stop at this point. Put a safety pin on your
working loop. Using the photographs as a
guide, position and secure the safety eyes
on the head. Then place the base of the
ears in each ear slot and sew on firmly.
Stuff the head firmly. Then return to finishing
the decreasing, putting the working loop
back on your crochet hook.
Rnd 25: (2 dc, dc2tog) 6 times (18 sts).
Rnd 26: (1 dc, dc2tog) 6 times (12 sts).
Rnd 27: Dc2tog to end (6 sts).
Fasten off. Finish stuffing the head. Then
use the yarn tail to gather and secure the
last 6 sts. Using the photograph as a guide,
stitch the nose using satin stitch with light
pink embroidery thread.
ARMS (MAKE 2)
Using 3.5mm hook and A, make 12 ch, join
with sl st to make a ring.
Rnd 1: 1 ch, dc into first ch, dc in each ch to
end (12 sts).
Rnd 2: (2 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (16 sts).
Rnd 3: (3 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (20 sts).
Rnds 4-12: 1 dc in each st around.
Rnd 13: (3 dc, dc2tog) 4 times (16 sts).
Rnds 14-20: 1 dc in each st around.
Rnd 21: (2 dc, dc2tog) 4 times (12 sts).
Rnds 22-24: 1 dc in each st around.
Rnd 25: (4 dc, dc2tog) 2 times (10 sts).
Rnd 26: 1 dc in each st around.
for pattern updates see knittingmag.com
K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 89
cm
in
PATTERNS
1
2
Fasten off. Fold the arm in half and sew TAIL
1
starting ch together to form the paw. Stuff Using 3.5mm hook and A, make a magic
3
both arms. ring.
Rnd 1: 1 ch, 8 dc into the centre of the ring
FEET AND LEGS (MAKE 2)
4
(8 sts).
Using 3.5mm hook and A, make 8 ch; work Rnd 2: 1 dc in each st around.
around this central ch to make an oval base Continue to work in a continuous spiral until
5
2
to the foot. Tail meas 10cm (4in).
Rnd 1: Dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn.
of next 6 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in other side of each Sew the tail firmly to the back of the mouse.
6
ch, 2 ch, join with a sl st to 1st ch (18 sts).
Rnd 2: 1 ch, 7 dc, 3 dc in ch-sp, 7 dc, 3 dc in RUGBY SHIRT
7
ch-sp, join with a sl st to 1st ch (20 sts).
Rnd 3: 1 ch, 7 dc, dc2inc in each 3 end dc BACK
3
sts, 7 dc, dc2inc in each 3 end dc sts, join Using 3.5mm hook and C, ch 27 sts.
8
with a sl st to 1 ch (26 sts). Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc to end,
Rnd 4: 1 ch, work 1 dc in the back loop of turn (26 sts).
9
each dc, join with a sl st to 1st ch. Row 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn.
Now work in a continuous spiral, placing a Rows 3-4: Change to D, rep row 2.
marker in the last st of the round. Rows 5-6: Change to C, rep row 2.
10
Rnds 5-7: 1 dc in each st around. Rows 7-14: Rep row 2, changing colours
4
Rnd 8: 8 dc, (dc2tog) 3 times, 12 dc (23 sts). every two rows to create a stripe, end with
11
Rnd 9: 8 dc, dc3tog, 10 dc, dc2tog (20 sts). a row of C.
Rnds 10-27: 1 dc in each st around. Row 15: Change to D, 1 ch, miss 1 st,
Fasten off, leaving a 20cm (8in) tail of yarn. 1 dc in each st to end, turn (25 sts).
12
Fill each foot and leg firmly with stuffing. Row 16: 1 ch, miss 1 st, 1 dc in each st to
Fold the top of the leg width-wise. You will end, turn (24 sts).
5
now use the stitches at the top of the leg to Row 17: Change to C, sl st across 3 sts, (sl st,
13
start working the body. 1 ch, 1 dc) in next st, 17 dc, turn (18 sts).
Row 18: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn.
14
BODY Row 19: Change to D, 1 ch, miss 1 st, dc to
Attach B to the back of the left leg, work 20 last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn (16 sts).
dc, then attach the right leg by working 20 Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn.
15
dc from right leg. Now work in continuous Rows 21-22: Change to C, 1 ch, 1 dc in each
6
spirals (40 sts). st to end, turn.
16
Rnd 1: 1 dc in each st around (40 sts). Row 23: Change to D, 1 ch, miss 1 st, dc to
Rnd 2: (9 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (44 sts). last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn (14 sts).
Rnd 3: 1 dc in each st around. Row 24: 1 ch, 2 dc, sl st 10, (sl st, 1 ch, 1 dc)
17
Rnd 4: (10 dc, dc2inc) 4 times (48 sts). in next st, 1 dc.
Rnds 5-8: 1 dc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends.
7
18
Change to A.
Rnds 9-10: 1 dc in each st around. FRONT
Rnd 11: (10 dc, dc2tog) 4 times (44 sts). Using 3.5mm hook and C, ch 27 sts.
19
Rnds 12-15: 1 dc in each st around. Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc to end,
Rnd 16: (9 dc, dc2tog) 4 times (40 sts). turn (26 sts).
Rnds 17-20: 1 dc in each st around. Row 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn.
20
Rnd 21: (8 dc, dc2tog) 4 times (36 sts). Rows 3-4: Change to D, rep row 2.
8
Rnds 22-25: 1 dc in each st around. Rows 5-6: Change to C, rep row 2.
21
Rnd 26: (7 dc, dc2tog) 4 times (32 sts). Rows 7-12: Rep row 2, changing colours
In the next round you will place the arms, every two rows to create a stripe, end with
working through the top stitches of the a row of D.
22
arms. You will now work in two sections for the
Rnd 27: 6 dc, fold the first arm in half, (dc neck opening.
23
9
through two layers of the arm and the next Right opening
dc st) 5 times, 11 dc, (dc through two layers Row 13: Change to C, 1 ch, 15 dc, turn
of the arm and the next dc st) 5 times, 5 dc (15 sts).
24
(32 sts). Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn.
Rnd 28: 1 dc in each st around. Row 15: Change to D, 1 ch, 12 dc, 2 ch, miss
25
Fasten off, leaving a 20cm (8in) tail of yarn. 2 sts, 1 dc, turn.
Using a tapestry needle, weave this yarn Row 16: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch,
10
through the last dc sts of the round and 1 dc in each st to end, turn.
26
gather the hole together slightly to create Row 17: Change to C, sl st across 3 sts,
a 10cm (4in) diameter neck edge. (sl st, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next st, 11 dc, turn (12 sts).
Stuff the feet, legs and body firmly and sew Row 18: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn.
27
the head firmly to the top of the body. Row 19: Change to D, 1 ch, miss 1 st, 8 dc,
▼
2 ch, miss 2 sts, 1 dc, turn (11 sts).
28
11
29
89
16/11/2017 16:52
cm
in

PATTERNS
1
2

Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, (sl st, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next st, 13 dc, turn (14 sts). around this central ch to make an oval base
1

6 dc, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn (10 sts). Row 14: 1 ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss to the foot.
3

Row 21: Change to C, 1 ch, 7 dc, turn (7 sts). 1 st, dc in last st, turn (12 sts). Rnd 1: Dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each
Row 22: 1 ch, miss 1 st, 6 dc, turn (6 sts). Row 15: Change to C, 1 ch, miss 1 st, dc to of next 6 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in other side of each
4

Row 23: Change to D, 1 ch, 4 dc, miss 1 st,
dc in last st, turn (5 sts).
Row 24: Sl st across 3 sts, (sl st, 1 ch, 1 dc)
5
2
last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn (10 sts). ch, 2 ch, join with a sl st to 1st ch.
Row 16: 1 ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss Rnd 2: 1 ch, 7 dc, 3 dc in ch sp, 7 dc, 3 dc in
1 st, dc in last st, turn (8 sts). ch sp, join with a sl st to 1st ch (20 sts).

in next st, 1 dc (2 sts). Row 17: Change to D, 1 ch, miss 1 st, dc to Rnd 3: 1 ch, 7 dc, dc2inc in each 3 end dc
Fasten off and weave in ends. last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn (6 sts). sts, 7 dc, dc2inc in each 3 end dc sts, join
Left opening Row 18: 1 ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss with a sl st to 1 ch (26 sts).
6

Join with C at the centre opening on row 1 st, dc in last st, turn (4 sts). Rnd 4: 1 ch, work 1 dc in the back loop of
13 with a sl st. Row 19: Change to C, 1 ch, 1 dc in each st each dc, join with a sl st to 1st ch.
7

Row 13: 1 ch, 11 dc, turn (11 sts). to end, turn. Now work in a continuous spiral, placing a
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off and weave in ends. marker in the last st of the round.
3

Row 15: Change to D, 1 ch, 1 dc in each st Rnds 5-7: 1 dc in each st around.

8

to end, turn. TO FINISH Rnd 8: 8 dc, (dc2tog) 3 times, 12 dc (23 sts).

Row 16: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn. Sew the Sleeve seams to the Front and Rnd 9: 8 dc, dc3tog, 10 dc, dc2tog (20 sts).
9

Row 17: Change to A, 1 ch, 8 dc, turn (8 sts). Back. Sew the side seams of the Front and Rnds 10: Sl st in every st.
Row 18: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn. Back together and then up each Sleeve Fasten off and weave in ends.
Row 19: Change to B, 1 ch, 6 dc, miss 1 st, seam on each side. Make sure the stripes Using a small amount of F, make a small bow
10

1 dc, turn (7 sts). match along the seams. Sew two small and sew it firmly onto the front of the trainer.
4

Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn. buttons on the white placket to correspond Using a tail of yarn, sew a small stitch below
11

Row 21: Change to A, 1 ch, 5 dc, miss 1 st, to the buttonholes. the bow for the laces.
1 dc, turn (6 sts).
Row 22: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn. FRED’S SHORTS FRED’S RUGBY BALL
12

Row 23: Change to B, 1 ch, miss 1 st, 5 dc, Using 3.5mm hook and E, ch 28 sts, join with Using 3.5mm hook and E, make a magic ring.
turn (5 sts). a sl st to make a loop. Rnd 1: 1 ch, 4 dc into centre of the ring (4 sts).
5

Row 24: 1 ch, 2 dc (2 sts). Work in continuous rounds. Rnd 2: *Dc2inc; rep from * to end of round
13

Fasten off and weave in ends. First leg (8 sts).

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 1 dc in every ch (28 sts). Rnd 3: *1 dc, dc2inc; rep from * to end of
14

PLACKET Rnds 2-12: 1 dc in each st around t. round (12 sts).

Using 3.5mm hook and E, join yarn at base Fasten off. Rnd 4: *2 dc, dc2inc; rep from * to end of
of left opening with a sl st. Second leg round (16 sts).
15

Row 1: Work 8 dc evenly up the left-hand Make a second leg exactly the same but do Rnd 5: *3 dc, dc2inc; rep from * to end of
6

opening of the front, turn (8 sts). not fasten off. Place marker. round (20 sts).
16

Rows 2-4: 1 ch, 8 dc, turn. Rnd 13: Join second leg by working across Rnds 6-10: 1 dc in each st around.
Fasten off, leaving a 30cm (12in) tail of yarn. the 28 sts of the first leg and then the 28 sts Rnd 11: *3 dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of
Use this yarn tail to sew the base bottom of the second leg (56 sts). round (16 sts).
17

edge of the Placket opening to the inside Rnds 14-16: 1 dc in each st around. Rnd 12: *2 dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of
of the jumper. Rnd 17: 1 dc in every st until 2 sts before the round (12 sts).
7
18

marker, 2 ch, place marker, miss 2 sts. Rnd 13: *1 dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of
COLLAR Rnd 18: 2 ch, miss 2 sts (4 sts missed in round (8 sts).
To crochet the collar you first have to sew total), 1 dc in next st, 9 dc, dc2tog, Rnd 14: *Dc2tog; rep from * to end of round
19

the front pieces to the back piece on the (8 dc, dc2tog) four times, 1 dc in each of (4 sts).
neckline. With RS facing, sew together two next 2 ch (51 sts). Fasten off.
stitches either side of the neck edge of the Rnd 19: 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in Stuff with polyester toy stuffing. Using the
20

Front and Back. every st. yarn tail, weave through the last 4 sts and
8

Row 1: Using 3.5mm hook and E, join yarn Rnds 20-22: 1 dc in each st around. tighten. Using an oddment of F, embroider
21

at base of left opening with a sl st at right Rnd 23: 1 dc, (8 dc, dc2tog) 5 times (46 sts). a stitch pattern on the rugby ball. ●
edge of the left opening on row 21. Work 7 Rnds 24-30: 1 dc in each st around.
dc evenly along left front neck edge, 12 dc Fasten off, leaving a 30cm (12in) tail of yarn.
22

across the back and 7 dc along right neck

edge, turn (26 sts). TO FINISH
23
9

Rows 2-4: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn. With WS facing, fold over the top of the
Fasten off and weave in ends. shorts to create a waistband, and use the tail
of yarn to sew the edge of the waistband to
24

SLEEVES (MAKE 2) the inside of the Shorts. Leave a small gap.

Using 3.5mm hook and C, ch 21 sts. Use a safety pin to thread some elastic cord
25

Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc to end, through the waistband through the gap.
turn (20 sts). Gather the waistband slightly and knot the
10

Row 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in each st to end, turn. ends of the elastic together, poke the elastic
26

Rows 3-4: Change to D, rep row 2. into the gap so that it is hidden within the
Rows 5-6: Change to C, rep row 2. waistband, then sew the gap down.
Rows 7-12: Work 6 rows in stripe pattern
27

ending with a row in C. FRED’S TRAINERS (MAKE 2)

Row 13: Change to D, sl st across 3 sts, Using 3.5mm hook and E, make 8 ch; work
28
11
29

90 for pattern updates see knittingmag.com

K176_P50-90_Patterns.indd 90 16/11/2017 16:52

 ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

STOCKISTS ABBREVIATIONS
DEBBIE BLISS/NORO k knit pwise purlwise
Designer Yarns p purl rem remain/ing
T: 01535 664 222 E: alex@designeryarns.uk.com alt alternative rep repeat
W: debbieblissonline.com beg begin/ning rev st st
reverse stocking stitch
ch chain (RS purl, WS knit)
DESIGNETTE cm centimetre/s rnd round
T: +45 58 37 10 11 E: info@designette.dk cn cable needle RS/WS right side/wrong side
W: designette.co.uk cont continue skpo slip one, knit one, pass
dc double crochet the slipped stitch over
DROPS DESIGN dec decrease (decrease 1)
W: garnstudio.com dpn(s) double-pointed sk2po slip one, knit two
needle(s) together, pass slipped
DUTTONS FOR BUTTONS foll follows/following stitch over (decrease 2)
T: 01423 502092 g gramme/s s2kpo slip two stitches
E: michelle@duttonsforbuttons.co.uk g st garter stitch one at a time knitwise,
W: duttonsforbuttons.co.uk (every row knit) knit one, pass two
in inch/es slipped stitches over
ERIKA KNIGHT inc increase (decrease 2)
TB Ramsden k2tog knit two stitches sp2po slip one purlwise, purl
T: 01943 494184 E: sales@tbramsden.co.uk together (decrease 1) two together, pass
W: tbramsden.co.uk W: erikaknight.co.uk k3tog knit three stitches slipped stitch over
together (decrease 2) (decrease 2)
KING COLE kfb knit into front and sl1 slip one stitch
T: 01756 703670 W: kingcole.co.uk back of next stitch sl1p slip one stitch purlwise
(increase 1) sm slip marker
MILLAMIA kwise knitwise ssk slip next two stitches
LoveKnitting LH/RH left hand/right hand one at a time, knitwise,
T: 0845 544 2196 W: loveknitting.co.uk m1 make 1 stitch: pick up to right hand needle,
the loop lying between insert tip of left hand
NEW LANARK the two stitches and needle through both
W: newlanarkshop.co.uk knit into the back of it stitches and knit them
(increase 1) together (decrease 1)
RICO m1p make 1 purlwise st(s) stitch(es)
T: +49 (0)52 72 602-0 E: info@rico-design.de meas measures st st stocking stitch
W: rico-design.de mm millimetre/s tbl through back loop
m st moss stitch tog together
ROWAN ndl needle tr treble crochet
T: 01484 681881 E: mail@knitrowan.com p2tog purl two stitches w&t wrap and turn
W: knitrowan.com together (decrease 1) wyib with yarn in the back
p3tog purl three stitches wyif with yarn in the front
SCHACHENMAYR together (decrease 2) yfwd yarn forward
W: mezcrafts.co.uk patt pattern yo yarn over
pm place marker yrn yarn round needle
STYLECRAFT psso pass slipped stitch over y2rn yarn twice round needle
T: 01535 609798 E: info@stylecraftltd.co.uk
W: stylecraft-yarns.co.uk
SKILL LEVELS EXPLAINED
SUBLIME
T: 01924 369666 E: contactus@sublimeyarns.com Beginner: If you’ve never knitted before, these are the projects to start
W: sublimeyarns.com you off. Look online for tutorials about casting on, casting off, knitting,
purling, increasing and decreasing – watch them through a few times
ULLCENTRUM and you’ll soon be ready to go.
W: ullcentrum.com
Beginner Plus: You’re happy with the knitting basics but haven’t
WENDY quite made that leap to knitting your first jumper. These are the
TB Ramsden projects for you.
T: 01943 494184 E: sales@tbramsden.co.uk
W: tbramsden.co.uk Intermediate: You know your knitting and are familiar with the
language, but don’t want to take on something extremely complex
YARNTELIER or in-depth. These projects will develop your knitting skills and
W: yarntelier.com challenge you, but won’t be over-taxing.

FOR PATTERN UPDATES SEE Advanced: These are the ones for all you knitting experts out there.

KNITTINGMAG.COM Cables, lacework, fancy stitches – nothing is too tricky for you, so
we’ve got plenty of challenging knits for real aficionados.

knittingmag.com 91

K176_P91_Essential Info.indd 91 16/11/2017 15:07

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095_KNIT_176.indd 95 11/16/17 12:04 PM

 PURL ABOUT TOWN
Laura ‘Purl Princess’ Parkinson tells a tale of knitwear horror and advises
you to stay safe and keep freezer bags handy

everything into the freezer drawer and quickly
closed the door, as I had read before about
this killing all stages of moth development
from egg to full-grown flyer. I itched all over
as I Googled advice on what do to next. First
I cleaned out the whole wardrobe, checking
every natural fibre in there, hoovering every
corner and wiping everything down. Then
after 48 hours I removed the items from the
freezer and checked each one over like a
detective searching for the tiniest clue to a
high stakes crime. Anything without holes in
My wardrobe may now look like a CSI crime
scene, as all of my jumpers have now also been
sealed in freezer bags, but I do feel safer in the
knowledge that my beloved hand knits aren’t
lunch for small flying destroyers of knitting. Be
vigilant, people, and keep your knits safe.
MUST TRY:
There are tons of moth products you can
buy out there, but lavender, cedarwood and
even mint are natural and often free ways to

A
fliickering
fl k i b by th
the li
light
ht b
bulb
lb was hhow it got a good shake outside and was put into a keep the little beasts away. The plus side is
began: small, brown, delicate wings, large freezer bag. Anything with holes in was that they help your clothes smell good too.
with secret destructive intentions, carefully repaired with advice from YouTube
batting up against my bedside lamp. At first I tutorials. Thank goodness I keep yarn scraps MUST DO:
thought nothing of it. “Just a moth,” was the from all my projects! Although the Mr wasn’t If you don’t already store your stash and
only thing that passed through my mind. But too pleased at having to wade through bags of knitted items in sealed plastic bags or
a few weeks later, more brown-wings were shawls to get to the frozen peas, I felt less itchy boxes I urge you to start. Large press-and-
appearing. Not a lot, but enough for me to refreezing everything for a further week, just seal freezer bags from the supermarket are
notice them staring down at me from the to make sure little so-and-sos weren’t thinking perfect. Remember prevention is better
corners of the rooms. I put them down to the of making a comeback. than cure.
change in season and subconsciously decided
not to think of their sinister presence much
more. Autumn arrived and with the cooler
weather I made my annual pilgrimage to
the boxes in the top of my wardrobe, where
my woolly head warmers, colourful hand
protectors and soft winter neck armour is
stored. And it was then that I realised the true
horror of it all. Moth infestation!
OK, maybe it was not quite as dramatic as it
sounds. Thousands of moths did not fly out at
me like bats from a cave, although as knitters
I’m sure you will understand my horror as I
uncovered the truth of what had been going
on in that box all summer. At first I noticed
sandy patches and small rolls of fluff on some
items, which I instantly recognized as moth
eggs and cocoons. At this point my heart was
both sinking and racing with the fear and
disappointment of my discovery. Upon closer
inspection I found holes: small munched-up
stitches beginning to open up in the middle of
the knitted fabric. It was my worst nightmare
come true.
Some of the items were old, unused knits
from my past, which must have been all the
more delicious to my hungry visitors, who
tend to favour undisturbed woollens. As these
items were past salvation they sadly went
directly to the bin. The worst part was that
some of my most loved knits – huge labours
of love, multi-coloured shawls and delicate
mittens in silk blends – had been a tasty
treat for the little blighters. I have to admit
that at this point I was panicking and shoved

FOR
96
MORE RAMBLINGS OF A PURL ABOUT TOWN CLICK ON DOWN TO PURLABOUT.BLOGSPOT.COM
to subs c r ib e v isit w w w.c r af t sins tit ute.c o m

K176_P96_Purl About Town.indd 96 16/11/2017 15:08

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IBC_KNIT_176.indd 1 11/24/17 10:08 AM

 www.designeryarns.uk.com

Gigi
Funky - Fresh - Fabulous

OBC_KNIT_176.indd 1 11/16/17 12:04 PM

 absolute
beginners
t k nitti n g toda y
Star

K176_SUPP_P01__Cover.indd 1 16/11/2017 13:54

 OUT NOW

VISIT BREATHEMAGAZINE.COM/JOURNAL
ON SALE NOW FOR £9.99 FROM ALL MAJOR MAGAZINE RETAILERS
AND SUPERMARKETS OR CALL +44 (0) 1273 488005
POST AND PACKAGING COSTS APPLY

17-237 - BREATHE PLANNER_AD A5.indd 2 11/22/17 11:16 AM

 Contents
04 You will need:
a guide to basic

PHOTOGRAPH: ROHAPPY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
knitting tools
06 Cracking the code:
knitting patterns
explained
08 Technique:
slip knots and
casting on
10 Technique:
Editor’s letter the knit stitch
11 Technique:
nitting. Over the past and you’ll soon be well on the
K decade and a half it’s way to your first accessory.
casting off

been described variously as There are lots of different

“the new rock ‘n’ roll”, “the
new yoga” and “an essential
life skill”. Countless reports
have emerged over the past
couple of years testifying to
its health benefits – the simple
click-clacking of needles, the
movement of soft yarn and the
creation of something beautiful
from a piece of string can ease
anxiety, balance out those
turbulent emotions and give you
a welcome respite from a world
that can be too busy to bear.
If you’ve picked up this
booklet, chances are you’ve
already heard some of the great
things about knitting and don’t
need me to convince you to
give it a try.
In that case, I have just one
thing to add: you can learn to
knit. Yes, you. For some people
it’s easy, for others it can be a
struggle. But if you sit down,
right now, for half an hour with
your needles, some wool and
12 Project: How
Easy Is That? Hat
theories about the best ways
to learn to knit, and there is 14 Technique:
no better way than sitting Sewing up
down with another knitter and 15 Technique:
getting them to show you. But the purl stitch
I hope this booklet will be the 16 Project:
next best thing, and if there’s Cool Cuffs
anything that looks too tricky,
try a free YouTube tutorial 18 Technique:
– sometimes it helps to see increasing
something in live action rather 21 Technique:
than a still photograph. decreasing
I’ve picked big, chunky yarns 23 Project: Funky
for these designs for three Bunting
reasons: big stitches make it 26 Technique: the
easy to see exactly what you’re magic loop
doing, chunky yarns are really method
hip right now, and above all
you’ll be able to see your 28 Project: Wow
progress. The book is designed Wrist Warmers
to take you from casting on to a 30 Next steps: now
finished project first, then add you can knit
extra techniques on a need- 31 Abbreviations
to-know basis. By the time
you get to page 14 you could, PHOTOGRAPHY:
theoretically, have knitted a hat. LAUREL GUILFOYLE
HAIR & MAKE-UP:
Welcome to the wonderful JEN DODSON

Christine
this booklet, you will be able to world of knitting! MODELS: ANNA
cast on and knit a few stitches, HUDSON, GRACE CAIRNS

knittingmag.com 3

K176_SUPP_P03_Ed's Letter.indd 3 21/11/2017 12:01

 YOU WILL NEED

get the kit yarn

Yarn comes in all shapes,
colours and sizes. Most
of the designs in this
book are done in big
chunky yarns, but you
can find extremely fine
lace-weight yarns too.
Yarn can be made from
all sorts of fibres – some
of the most popular are
wool, alpaca, cashmere,
cotton, bamboo and silk.

Yarn comes in several different

packages. It can come in balls, like
the white Rico Baby Classic Glitz DK
shown here, in skeins, like Sirdar’s
variegated Imagination, or in hanks
like John Arbon’s Devonia.

YARN
TIP stitch markers
Yarn that comes in Stitch markers are very handy
hanks needs to be for keeping track of where you
wound before it is are in your knitting. They can be
knitted – otherwise simple rings, split rings or even
you can end up in a mini-safety pins that you can clip
terrible tangle. Look in place. But you don’t need to
for online tutorials on buy stitch markers (unless you
winding wool or get can’t resist the gorgeous ones on
Knitting issue 167, May Etsy) – a piece of scrap yarn will
2017, for our yarn guru do exactly the same job if you’re
Jeanette Sloan’s tips. crafting on a budget.

4 knittingmag.com

K176_SUPP_P04-05_You Will Need.indd 4 16/11/2017 14:01

 YOU WILL NEED

All you really need to get knitting is two similar-sized

sticks and any stringlike fibre – but here are some of the
things you might like to choose for your first foray

needles
Like yarns, needles come Double-pointed needles can also
in all shapes, sizes and be used for knitting in the round
materials. Some of the most – stitches are distributed across
popular are wooden, metal several needles and then joined up.
or plastic. Some knitters
prefer straight needles (the
ones that look like sticks)
while others like circular
ones (two sticks joined by
a wire). Both work in the
same way, except that
circular ones can also be
used for knitting in the
round – handy for hats,
gloves or socks.

extras
Finally you will need a pair of scissors and a
large-eyed, blunt-ended needle to weave in
your ends once you’ve cast off your project.

knittingmag.com 5

K176_SUPP_P04-05_You Will Need.indd 5 16/11/2017 14:01

 HOW TO
cracking the code Knitting patterns explained
SIZES
The first size is the size the
garment is designed to fit.
Check your own bust, sleeve
and back length measurements,
then once you have picked the
right size for you, look at the
“actual measurement” section:
comparing this with your
measurements will show you if
the garment is meant to be worn
loose or stretched. If you have
long arms or a long back you
may want to buy an extra ball
sizes of yarn, or if you’re shorter you
may want to adjust the length.
Some knitting patterns will guide
you where to adjust for size; for
others there are tutorials online.
need
you will
tension
tions
abbrevia
6 knittingmag.com
K176_SUPP_P06-07_Cracking the Code.indd 6
YOU WILL NEED
This section should tell you everything you will
need to knit the project, including yarn, needles
and anything else such as cable needles, stitch
holders or buttons. If you’ve picked up an old
pattern and the yarn isn’t available anymore,
websites such as yarnsub.com can suggest
alternatives. You don’t always need everything
on the list: for example, you could use scrap
yarn, safety pins or even paper clips for stitch
markers or stitch holders.
TENSION
Tension swatches are a controversial subject
among knitters. Some just can’t be bothered
to knit them. But please do! A tension square
will tell you whether you’re happy with the
consistency and drape of the fabric you’re
knitting. More importantly, if your square isn’t
coming out the same size as the designer’s, your
garment won’t either – and it’s best to find that
out before you’ve knitted a whole jumper. The
pattern will show a number of stitches for 10cm.
Cast on about twice that number of stitches and
knit for about 15cm, then use a ruler and the tip
of a knitting needle to count how many stitches
and rows you have over 10cm at a couple of
different points. If your tension doesn’t match
the pattern, try a different needle size.
ABBREVIATIONS
Knitting patterns are written in a kind of code.
You’ll soon learn common abbreviations like
k for knit and p for purl off by heart. Other
common abbreviations will be printed in
a regular list (like ours at the back of this
booklet) while unusual abbreviations will be
listed in the pattern itself.
21/11/2017 12:02
 HOW TO

THE PATTERN PROPER

After all this preparation you come
to the pattern itself. There are lots
of different ways to construct a
garment: top-down, bottom-up,
in one piece, or in multiple pieces.
This section will take you from your
first slip knot to your final cast off,
in a step-by-step guide.

charts

CHARTS
Some patterns use charts, either to show
colour changes or more complicated
designs like cable and lace patterns.
Charts can look daunting at first, so if
you’re struggling with one try reading it
and writing out all the instructions into
words – you will soon feel much more
comfortable with them.

schemati
c SCHEMATIC
This is another way to check the size of
the garment, and a good visual guide if
you want to adjust so it fits you perfectly.

FINISHING OFF
In this section you will find instructions
for blocking, sewing pieces together
and working the last bits of the design,
like a neckband or button
and buttonhole bands.

to fInis
h

knittingmag.com 7

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 TECHNIQUE

Getting started:
Cast on your stitches
slip knot
Nearly every piece of knitting starts with a slip knot. If you’re in the Magic Circle you’ll
already know how to make one, but here’s a quick refresher in case you don’t.

1 2

3 4

1. Pull out a bit of yarn from your ball and
make a loop. The yarn running from the
loop to the ball is called the working yarn.
The end of yarn is called the tail.
2. Holding the point where the two ends
of yarn cross in your left hand, use your
right thumb to push another loop of yarn
through the first loop you created.
3. Holding the tail in your left hand, use
your right hand to pull this new loop
through, tightening the original loop
around it to create a firm loop which you
can adjust in size by pulling the tail.
4. Voila! You have made a slip knot. If you
want to undo it, simply pull hard on the tail
and the working yarn at the same time and
it will disappear, just like magic.

8 knittingmag.com

K176_SUPP_P08-09_Cast on.indd 8 16/11/2017 14:04

 TECHNIQUE

casting on
Every knitting pattern will start with a certain number of stitches. There are countless
ways of casting these on, and most knitters have a favourite. This method is called the
knitted-on cast on, and is useful for beginners because it uses many of the same moves
as the knit stitch, so you can practise before you even start knitting.

1 2 3

4 5 6

1. Start with your slip knot. Slip it on to
your left hand needle and tighten it to fit,
but not so much that it doesn’t move easily
along the needle.
2. Keeping your slip knot on the left hand
needle, insert your right hand needle
into the loop as well, from left to right,
underneath the left hand needle. (If it is
tricky to do this your slip knot is too tight –
just tug on the loop to loosen it).
3. Now bring the working yarn clockwise
underneath the right hand needle and
back over the top, so you have made a
loop around it closer to the needle tips
than the original slip knot.
4. Use the tip of the right hand needle to pull
this new loop through the original slip knot.
5. Now bring this new loop around to the
tip of the left hand needle and slip it on.
6. You now have two stitches on the left
hand needle. To cast on more stitches,
insert your right hand needle into this new
stitch and repeat steps 2-5. Repeat
as many times as your pattern calls for.

knittingmag.com 9

K176_SUPP_P08-09_Cast on.indd 9 16/11/2017 14:04

 TECHNIQUE

The knit stitch

This is your go-to, number one stitch. If you can do the knit
stitch, you can knit – it’s that simple. Here’s how:

1 2 3

4 5

1. Hold the needle with stitches on in
your left hand and insert the tip of the
right hand needle into the first stitch,
underneath the left hand needle. The
needle goes through the stitch from left to
right, even though the needle itself moves
from right to left.
2. Take the working yarn underneath
and back over the right hand needle in a
clockwise direction, creating a loop in front
of the stitch that is holding both needles.
3. Use the tip of the right hand needle to
pull this loop through the original stitch.
4. Now the loop on your right hand
needle is the new stitch. Slip the original
stitch off the end of the left hand needle
and let it fall – it now forms part of the
fabric you are knitting.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 with the next stitch on
the left hand needle and then the following
one until you have knitted every stitch.
To knit the next row, simply turn the work
around, take the right hand needle – now
with all the stitches on – in your left hand
and start all over again.

10 knittingmag.com

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 TECHNIQUE

Finishing up
To finish a piece of knitting you will need to cast off all your
stitches, tying them up so that nothing comes unravelled.

1 2 3

4 5

6 7

1. Start by knitting the first two stitches
as normal.
2. Use the tip of your left hand needle to lift
the first stitch on the right hand needle up …
3. … over the top of the second stitch and
off the end of the right hand needle. This
stitch is now cast off.
5. Keep repeating step 4 until you have
one stitch left on the right hand needle
and none on the left hand needle.
6. Pass the rest of the ball, or the end of
the working yarn, through this last stitch,
using your fingers to make the stitch big
enough for the ball to fit through, then pull
tightly on the working yarn.

4. Knit the next stitch on the left hand 7. You should have a neat and tidy row of
needle so that you again have two stitches cast-off stitches.
on the right hand needle and then repeat
steps 2 and 3.

knittingmag.com 11

K176_SUPP_P10-11_Knit Stitch & Casting Off.indd 11 16/11/2017 14:05

 PATTERN

HOW EASY IS THAT?

BY CHRISTINE BOGGIS
TENSION
6 sts and 13 rows to 10cm over g st.
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary
to obtain correct tension.

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 31

HAT
Cast on 13 sts.
Knit until piece meas approx 36cm (14in),
or twice the depth you want the finished
hat to be.
Cast off.

TO FINISH
Fold hat in half and sew side seams using
mattress stitch (see page 14). ●

This hat is the easiest thing you could

possibly knit. Simply cast on, knit and knit
and knit. And if you find you don’t want
to stop, just carry on – keep going and it
could become a cowl, a scarf or even the
start of a blanket.

SIZE
To fit: Average woman’s head
Circumference: Approx 46cm (18in)
Depth: Approx 18cm (7in)

YOU WILL NEED

Wool and the Gang Heal the Wool
100% recycled wool (approx 80m per 200g)
1 x 200g ball in Dusty Blue
15mm needles
Large-eyed, blunt-ended needle
Note: Yarn amounts are based on average
requirements and are approximate.

12 knittingmag.com

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 PATTERN

K176_SUPP_P12-13_Easy Hat.indd 13 16/11/2017 14:06

 TECHNIQUE

All sewn up
Some knits only need a couple of ends weaving in and they’re good to go, but others
will need different bits of knitted fabric to be sewn together. While traditional sewing
techniques stand you in good stead, some work better with knits than others. A really
useful one is mattress stitch.

1 2 3

4 5 6

7 8

1. Start with your two finished pieces next
to each other, right sides up.
2. Thread a large-eyed, blunt-ended
needle with a long piece of yarn. Normally
you would use the same yarn you knitted
with and could even use a yarn tail, but in
this case I’ve used a contrasting yarn so it
shows up better.
3. Insert the needle tip into the stitch at the
very left edge of the right hand side fabric
from the right side to the wrong side, take it
under two bars of stitches and bring it back
through the right side and pull through.
4. Repeat step 3 on the left hand side fabric.
5. Move back to the right hand side fabric
and repeat step 3 with the next two
stitches up.
6. Then do the same with the corresponding
stitches on the left hand side.
7. Pull the yarn through and tighten it. You
now have a neat join, almost invisible on
the right side.
8. And a neat seam is showing on the
wrong side.

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 TECHNIQUE

The purl stitch

You may have heard of an epidemic of purlophobia sweeping through the knitting
community, especially across the Atlantic ocean. Don’t be afraid! The purl stitch is
pretty much the mirror image of the knit stitch, and once you’ve mastered knit and purl,
all the wonders of rib, moss stitch, cabling and all sorts of other textured stitches are
yours for the taking. Here’s how:

1 2 3

4 5

1. Insert the tip of your right hand needle
into the front of the first stitch on the left
hand needle from right to left, with the right
hand needle above the left hand needle.
2. Take the working yarn clockwise
underneath the right hand needle tip and
back over it, creating a new loop in front of
the stitch being worked.
3. Pull the right hand needle tip back out
of the stitch, taking the new loop of yarn
with it. This is now the new stitch.
4. Let the original stitch slip off the left
hand needle to form part of the fabric.
5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 in the next stitch on
the left hand needle, and then the next,
until all stitches have been purled. The
fabric will look bobbly on the purled side
and smoother on the knitted side. If you
knit all the right side rows and purl all the
wrong side rows it is called stocking stitch,
and is the most common stitch pattern you
will see.

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 PATTERN

16 knittingmag.com

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 PATTERN

COOL CUFFS BY CHRISTINE BOGGIS

Note: Yarn amounts are based on average
requirements and are approximate.

TENSION
4.5 sts and 7 rows to 10cm over st st.
Use larger or smaller needles if necessary
to obtain correct tension.

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 31

GREY CUFF
Using A, cast on 6 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Rep rows 1 and 2 four times. Cast off.

PINK AND CREAM CUFF

Using B, cast on 6 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
SIZE Row 2: Purl.
Circumference: Approx 24cm (9½in) Row 3: Knit.
Width: 14cm (5½in) Cut B, leaving approx a 20cm (8in) tail
and join C.
YOU WILL NEED Row 4: Purl.
Sirdar Gorgeous 51% wool, 49% acrylic Row 5: Knit.
(approx 50m per 150g) Rep rows 4 and 5, then row 4 again.
1 x 150g skein in 600 Shadow (A) Cast off.
1 x 150g skein in 602 White (B)
1 x 150g skein in 605 Love Bug (C) TO FINISH (BOTH CUFFS)
20mm needles Sew cast-on to cast-off edges. Weave in
Large-eyed, blunt-ended needle for ends. On two-colour cuff, weave each
sewing up colour end into the same colour section. ●

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 TECHNIQUE

Shaping your work

To make knits fit better – and more interesting – the
fabric needs to be shaped by increasing or decreasing the
number of stitches. There are lots of different ways to do
this, and here are just a few popular ones
knit front and back
Before you begin, take a look at the first stitch on your left hand needle. The front of the
loop (on the side of the needle facing you) should be a little in front of the back of the
loop. These are also known as the front and back legs of the stitch.

1 2 3

4 5

1. Start off by knitting the first stitch 3. Wrap the yarn around and pull the new
through its front loop as normal – but do loop through as you would in the knit
not slip the stitch off the end of the left stitch, then slip the original stitch off the
hand needle. end of the left hand needle.

2. Keeping the original stitch on the left
hand needle and the new stitch on the
right hand needle, take the right hand
needle tip to the back of the left hand
needle and insert it into the back leg
of the original stitch.
4. You now have two stitches on the right
hand needle knitted from just one stitch on
the left hand needle.
5. If you work this increase at each end of
the row, your fabric will get wider.

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 TECHNIQUE

Part 1: Increasing
yarn overs
Yarn overs can be used for a simple increase, or to create a decorative hole in your
knitting. They are the basis of all lace knitting, and once you can increase using yarn
overs and master some decreases, you will be surprised how many complicated-looking
lace patterns become possible.

1 2 3

4 5

1. Knit the first stitch as normal, then bring
the yarn to the front of the work.
2. Knit the next stitch as normal, taking the
yarn over the top of the right hand needle
to the back of the work. This will create a
new loop in the next row of knitting.
3. You now have two options. If you work
the next row as normal – in this case a purl
row – you will end up with an increase that
has created a little hole where the yarn
over was.
4. To avoid these holes, when you come
to the stitches created by the yarn overs
on the next row, work them through the
back loop, as in knitting front and back
above – but in this case purling through
the back loop.
5. The result is a neat fabric without
any holes.

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 PATTERNS

making stitches
Making a new stitch usually means picking up the bar between the stitch just worked and
the next one on to your left hand needle and working it either through the front or back
loop, to create a slanted increase. Make one left is usually done at the beginning of a row
to create a right-slanted increase, while make one right creates a left-slanted increase at
the end of a row.

1 2 1 2

3 4 3 4

MAKE ONE LEFT MAKE 1 RIGHT

1. Knit the first stitch on the needle, then
look for the bar that sits between this stitch
and the next on the left hand needle.
2. Insert the tip of the right hand needle
from right to left through this bar, pick it
up and slip it on to the tip of the left
hand needle.
1. Knit to the last stitch on the left hand
needle and look for the bar between this
stitch and the last stitch on the right
hand needle.
2. Insert the tip of the right hand needle
from left to right into this bar, pick it up and
slip it on to the tip of the left hand needle.

3. The front leg of the new stitch should be 3. The front leg of the new stitch should
in front of the back leg. be behind the back leg.

4. Knit this new stitch through the back loop. 4. Knit this stitch through the front loop
as normal.

these increases create neatly

slanted shaping at each side
of the fabric.

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 TECHNIQUE

Shaping your work

Part 2: Decreasing
The
h other way to shape your work is by decreasing the
number of stitches on the needles. As with increasing,
you can create left or right-leaning decreases
knit two together
Knit two together, or k2tog, is the simplest and most common decrease and creates a
right-leaning stitch. You can purl two together in a very similar way, simply by purling
instead of knitting.

1 2

3 4

1. Instead of inserting your needle into
just one stitch, insert it into the next two
stitches on the left hand needle just as if
you were going to knit a single stitch.
2. Wrap the working yarn around the
needle …
3. …pull the new loop through the original
two stitches …
4. …and slip them off the end of the left
hand needle, just as you would if you were
knitting a single stitch. You have now made
two stitches into one stitch.

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 TECHNIQUE
slip, slip, knit
Slip, slip, knit or ssk is a great way to make
a left-leaning decrease.
1 2
3 4
5 5
1. Insert the tip of the right hand needle
into the next stitch on the left hand needle
as if to knit it, but instead just slip it from
the left to the right hand needle.
2. Repeat with the next stitch so you
have two slipped stitches on the right
hand needle.
3. Insert the left hand needle through both
those stitches from left to right on top of
the right hand needle.
4. Now wrap the working yarn around the
right hand needle, knitting the two slipped
stitches together through the back loop, and
slip them off the end of the left hand needle.
5. This image shows a fabric with a left-
leaning slip, slip, knit decrease at the start
of the row and a right-leaning knit two
together decrease at the end of the row.
22 knittingmag.com
K176_SUPP_P21-22_Decreasing.indd 22
slip one, knit one,
pass slipped stitch over
Slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over,
or skpo, is another left-leaning decrease.
1 2
3 4
1. Insert the tip of the right hand needle
into the next stitch on the left hand needle
as if you were about to knit it, but instead
slip it to the right hand needle.
2. Knit the next stitch as normal.
3. Use the tip of the left hand needle to pick
up the slipped stitch – now the second-to-
last stitch on the right hand needle …
4. … and pass it over the knitted stitch, the
last stitch on the right hand needle.
5. You can see the pronounced left-leaning
decrease at the centre of this swatch.
16/11/2017 14:10
 PATTERN

FUNKY BUNTING
BY CHRISTINE BOGGIS

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 PATTERN

FUNKY BUNTING BY CHRISTINE BOGGIS

Note: Yarn amounts are based on average
requirements and are approximate

TENSION
4 sts and 7 rows to 10cm over g st.
Tension is not critical to this project.

BUNTING
Cast on 8 sts.
Knit 2 rows.
Next row (dec): K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts,
k2tog, k1 (6 sts).
Knit 3 rows.
Next row (dec): K1, ssk, k2tog, k1 (4 sts).
Knit 2 rows.
Next row (dec): Ssk, k2tog (2 sts).
Next row: K2tog.
Bind off the last stitch.

YARN OVER BUNTING

YOU WILL NEED
These simple triangles will help you Wool and the Gang Heal The Wool 100%
practise your increases and decreases. recycled wool (approx 80m per 200g)
Make as many as you like, string them 1 x 200g ball in Dusty Blue
together with a ribbon and you’ve made 15mm needles
beautiful hand-crafted bunting.
es
ur Decreas
Practise Yo
SIZE
Width at widest point: Approx 18cm (7in)
Length at longest point:
Approx 14cm (5½in)

PRACTISE YOUR DECREASES

YOU WILL NEED
Sirdar Gorgeous 51% wool, 49% acrylic
(approx 50m per 150g)
1 x 150g skein each in 602 White Cotton
(A), 605 Love Bug (B) and 600 Shadow (C)
20mm needles

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 PATTERN

Note: Yarn amounts are based on average 1 x 100g ball in shade 025
requirements and are approximate 12mm needles
Note: Yarn amounts are based on average
TENSION requirements and are approximate.
6 sts and 14 rows to 10cm over g st.
Tension is not critical to this project. TENSION
9 sts and 17 rows to 10cm over g st.
BUNTING Tension is not critical to this project.
Cast on 3 sts.
Knit 1 row. BUNTING
*Next row (inc): K1, yo, k to last st, yo, k1 Cast on 3 sts.
(5 sts). Knit 1 row.
Knit 3 rows. * *Next row (inc): K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R,
Rep from * to * until you have 9 sts. k1 (5 sts).
Next row (inc): K1, yo, k to last st, yo, k1 Knit 2 rows.*
(11 sts). Rep from * to * five times (15 sts).
Knit 1 row. Next row: K1, yo, k to last st, yo, k1 (17 sts).
Cast off. Cast off.

MAKE ONE BUNTING TO FINISH

Weave in ends.
YOU WILL NEED Get a length of ribbon and thread it
Rico Essentials Super Super Chunky through the eyelets on the two increase
50% wool, 50% acrylic bunting flags, and through stitch holes on
(approx 100m per 100g) the decrease bunting.

Bunting unting
Yarn Over Make One B

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 TECHNIQUE

Knitting in the round

The magic loop method
Some knitters are intimidated by the idea of knitting in the
round, while others love it – especially because it means
you can knit stocking stitch without having to purl. Knitting
in the round is perfect for hats, gloves, socks and cowls.
There are several ways to knit in the round – you can use a number of double-pointed
needles, or a circular needle exactly the right size for your knit. The magic loop method is
handy because you can use the same circular needle for any size of knitting. It is simpler
than it looks, and once you’ve got going you’re sure to love it.

1 2 3

1. Cast on the number of stitches you want
and slide them on to the connecting cable
of your circular needle.
2. Find the middle of the stitches and pull
the cable out through this point – but not
so far that any stitches drop off the ends of
the needle tips.
3. Now leave the half of the stitches
connected to the working yarn on the
cable – these will now be known as the
back stitches. Slide the other half of the
stitches on to the left hand needle tip.
These are now known as the front stitches.
4. Making sure your stitches are all facing
in the same direction and not twisted,
bring the right hand needle tip around and
knit the first stitch on the left hand needle
tip. Pull the working yarn tightly afterwards
and you will find that your stitches have
joined in a loop. It is a good idea to place
a marker at this point so that you know
where your round begins and ends.
5. Carry on knitting until you have worked
all the front stitches.
6. Taking care not to turn the stitches you
have worked upside down or inside out,

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 TECHNIQUE
4 5
7 8
10 11
turn the work around so that the stitches
you have just knitted are now sitting at
the back on the left hand needle tip and
the cast-on stitches are at the front on
the cable.
7. Being gentle and taking care not to drop
any stitches at this point, pull the cable
until the cast-on stitches now at the front
of the work are sitting on the front needle
tip. This is now your left hand needle.
8. Pull the back needle tip out of the back
stitches so that they now sit on the cable.
This is now your right hand needle tip.
knittingmag.com
K176_SUPP_P26-27_Knitting in the Round.indd 27
6
9
9. Bring this needle tip around and work
the first stitch on the left hand needle.
10. Carry on knitting until you have worked
all the stitches on the needle tip. You have
now knitted one round.
11. Repeat steps 6 to 10 to knit as many
rounds as you like, creating a neat tube
of knitting.
27
21/11/2017 12:38
 PATTERN
WOW WRIST WARMERS BY CHRISTINE BOGGIS
If you can knit and purl, you can rib.
Swapping between knit and purl creates a
stretchy, flexible fabric perfect for uneven
shaped bits of you, like your hands – so
why not try your hand at these simple,
chunky sleeveless mittens, knitted in the
round using the magic loop method that
means no sewing up at the end.
SIZE
To fit: Average woman’s hands
Circumference: Approx 20cm (8in)
Length: Approx 18cm (7in)
YOU WILL NEED
Rico Essentials Super Super Chunky
50% wool, 50% acrylic
(approx 100m per 100g ball)
1 x 100g ball in shade 025
12mm circular needle
Stitch marker
Large-eyed, blunt-ended needle to weave
in ends
28 knittingmag.com
K176_SUPP_P28-29_Mittens.indd 28
Note: Yarn amounts are based on average
requirements and are approximate.
TENSION
8 sts and 12 rows to 10cm.
Use larger or smaller needle if necessary
to obtain correct tension.
ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 31
GLOVES (MAKE 2)
Cast on 16 sts and join in the round using
the magic loop method, pm to mark beg
and end of rnd.
Rnd 1: (K2, p2) around.
Rep rnd 1 until glove meas 11cm (4¼in).
Shape thumbhole
Work the next row as normal, but instead
of continuing on to the next round, turn
your work and work back across the
stitches you have just worked as folls:
(k2, p2) to end.
Next row: Turn and work (k2, p2) to end.
Shape hand
Now rejoin the yarn in the round by simply
continuing on in the round instead of
turning your work, pulling tightly on the
first two stitches to make the join neat.
Next rnd: (K2, p2) around.
Rep this rnd until glove meas approx
18cm (7in).
16/11/2017 14:14
 PATTERN

Cast off loosely in rib as foll: K2, pass

the first st on the RH needle
over the second one, *p1,
pass the first st on the RH
needle over the second
one*, rep from * to *,
k1, pass the first st on
the RH needle over the
second one, and cont in
this way until all sts are
cast off.

TO FINISH
Weave in ends. ●

knittingmag.com 29

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 NEXT STEPS

now you can knit

cute cables ...what will you make next?
Cable knitting looks complicated but is really
pretty straightforward. These cute fingerless

O/
PHOTOGRAPH: IMG STOCK STUDI
mittens are from a brand new collection of
beginner-friendly knits by The Fibre Company,
in its luxurious Road to China Light yarn, a blend

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
of baby alpaca, silk, camel and cashmere.

chunky blanket
All it takes to knit a gorgeously cosy, super
chunky blanket is casting on, casting off,
knit and purl. Look for kits from Loopy
Mango,go, Chunky Row or Tjockt.
stripy delight
This simply-shaped shor
sweater – Joan’s Tee from t-sleeved
171, September 2017 – is Knitting
a desi
will use all the knitting, gn that
increasing, decreasing andpurling,
changing skills you’ve lear colour-
nt.
perfect for your first jumJust
per.

jump to jumpers
s –
Don’t be scared of sweater your
make the leap to knittingand
fi rst one right now. Wool
the Gang’s Dreami n’ jum per is
sim ple
a perfect fi rst step – a ble as
garter stitch knit availa des.
a 30kit in 35 on-tren d sha
snowed in
This beautifully simple blanket from
this issue of Knitting is a lovely winter
knit to practise with. You’ll need only
one simple skill not in this book:
twisting yarns at the back of the work
when changing from one to another.
Look it up on YouTube and you’ll have
all the knowledge you need for a
knittingmag.com
complicated intarsia project.

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 ABBREVIATIONS
k knit pwise purlwise
p purl rem remain/ing
alt alternative rep repeat
beg begin/ning rev st st
reverse stocking stitch
ch chain (RS purl, WS knit)
cm centimetre/s rnd round
cn cable needle RS/WS right side/wrong side
cont continue skpo slip one, knit one, pass
dc double crochet the slipped stitch over
dec decrease (decrease 1)
dpn(s) double-pointed sk2po slip one, knit two
needle(s) together, pass slipped
foll follows/following stitch over (decrease 2)
g gramme/s s2kpo slip two stitches
g st garter stitch one at a time knitwise,
(every row knit) knit one, pass two
in inch/es slipped stitches over
inc increase (decrease 2)
k2tog knit two stitches sp2po slip one purlwise, purl
together (decrease 1) two together, pass
k3tog knit three stitches slipped stitch over
together (decrease 2) (decrease 2)
kfb knit into front and sl1 slip one stitch
back of next stitch sl1p slip one stitch purlwise
(increase 1) sm slip marker
kwise knitwise ssk slip next two stitches
LH/RH left hand/right hand one at a time, knitwise,
m1 make 1 stitch: pick up to right hand needle,
the loop lying between insert tip of left hand
the two stitches and needle through both
knit into the back of it stitches and knit them
(increase 1) together (decrease 1)
m1p make 1 purlwise st(s) stitch(es)
meas measures st st stocking stitch
mm millimetre/s tbl through back loop
m st moss stitch tog together
ndl needle tr treble crochet
p2tog purl two stitches w&t wrap and turn
together (decrease 1) wyib with yarn in the back
p3tog purl three stitches wyif with yarn in the front
together (decrease 2) yfwd yarn forward
patt pattern yo yarn over
pm place marker yrn yarn round needle
psso pass slipped stitch over y2rn yarn twice round needle

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