1.

Introduction
1.1 Introduction to Pretreatment
Need for preparation/ pretreatment
The basic objective of pretreatment processing is removal of added or natural impurities
present in textile fibres to improve the absorbency. This prepares the textile substrate for
downstream processes like dyeing, printing, finishing etc.
Improvement in absorbency brings about

 Improved comfort
 Improved downstream processing

Improved here means not only higher dye/finish uptake but also more uniform treatment.
In case of silk, degumming improves lustre but reduces absorbency
The nature and amount of natural impurities present depends on the fibre type (
generally high in natural fibres ). In general, synthetic fibres do not have any natural
impurity. Added impurities are the additives or chemicals which are added to
facilitate certain processes like weaving (sizing) or prevention of static
(lubrication/antistatic treatment during melt spinning).
Pretreatment stage
 Is non- value –added stage of the coloration process
 Is often not optimized
 Makes excessive use of chemicals, auxiliaries and utilities
 Is characterized by high carry-over of preparation residues

This makes it imperative to understand the science of impurity removal and functions
of various chemicals and auxiliaries used in pretreatment.
Major Textile fibres
Natural

Cotton (for impurities click the hyperlink1 )

Wool ( for impurities click the hyperlink2)

Silk ( for impurities click the hyperlink3)

Synthetic/Man made

Polyester

Nylon

Acrylic

Viscose

Constituent Composition of a fibre

Typical
Low (%) High (%)
(%)
Cellulose hyperlink11 94.0 88.0 96.0
Protein hyperlink12 1.3 1.1 1.9
Pectic matter hyperlink13 0.9 0.7 1.2
Wax hyperlink14 0.6 0.4 1.0
 Mineral matter hyperlink15 1.2 0.7 1.6
Organic acids hyperlink16 0.8 0.5 1.0
Total sugars hyperlink17 0.3 - -
References
 Hardin I.R. & Li Y., Textile Chemists & Colorists, 29 (8), 1997, 71.
 Hardin I.R., Kim J., Colourage, 2000, 43.
 Takagishi T., Yamamoto R., Kikuvama K., Arakawa H., AATCC Review, August 2001,
32.

Most of the impurities in cotton are concentrated in the primary cell wall.
Chemical structure of cellulose - hyperlink4/ hyperlink11
Physical Structure of cotton fibre - hyperlink5
Hyperlink5

Microscopic view of cotton

Layered physical structure of cotton

hyperlink12
Proteins
 Nitrogenous compounds
  Present in primary cell wall and lumen
 Yellow colour of cotton is due to presence of proteins and some colouring matter

Some amino acids:

Leucine

Valine

Proline

Alanine

hyperlink13
Pectins
 Derivatives of pectic acid
 Found in the cover of citrus fruits
 Polymer of high molecular weight

Pectin is a polysaccharide that acts as a cementing material in the cell walls of all plant tissues.
It is a polymer of α-Galacturonic acid with a variable number of methyl ester groups
Some COOH groups are present as Ca and Mg salts.

hyperlink14
The wax present in the primary cell wall of cotton protects the fibre from environmental
agencies, is responsible for the smooth handle and is a source of hydrophobicity. In the
presence of wax, cotton has poor wettability. The wax consists of long chains of fatty alcohols,
fatty acids, their esters, cholesterin & hydrocarbons.
Components of fats and waxes
Fatty acids
Stearic acid
Palmitic acid
Oleic acid
Fatty alcohols
Gossipyl alcohol (C H OH)
30 61

Cetyl alcohol (C H OH)

26 53
 Montanyl alcohol (C H OH)
28 57

hyperlink15
Mineral matter (Ash) consists mainly of alkaline earth compounds and potassium and
phosphate ions. The mineral matter may be water soluble or may be removed by treatment
with dilute mineral acids (demineralization/souring). Composition of mineral matter on a fibre
Depends on soil composition.
Composition of mineral matter for a typical cotton fibre:
Mineral % fraction
Potassium carbonate 44.8
Potassium Chloride 9.9
Potassium sulphate 9.3
Calcium sulphate 9.0
Calcium carbonate 10.3
Magnesium sulphate 8.4
Ferric oxide 3.0
Aluminum oxide 5.0
hyperlink16
Colouring Matter
Colored pigments present are

3,5,7,2’,4’ penta hydroxy flavone (Morrin) (gossypetin)

 3,5,8,3’,4’ Hexa hydroxy flavone
Hyperlink2
Wool is a protein fibre
Impurities in wool

Type Fat and Sand Vegetable Wool

suint an dirt matter
Fine 20-25 5-40 0.5-2 20-50
Medium 15-30 5-20 1.5 40-60
long 5-15 5-10 0.2 60-80
As is clear from the above table, finer wools tend to have a higher proportion of impurities as
compared to coarser wool.
Impurities:
Wool wax (Fat) –Easily saponifiable and emulsifiable hydrophobic impurity It consists of:
 Esters
 Diesters
 Hydroxy esters of high M. Wt Lanolin alcohol and acids

Suint
It is the perspiration of sheep and is generally water soluble/insoluble.
Sand and dirt
Particulate type of impurity which sheep picks up during its movement.
Vegetable matter
Parts of dried leaves and some sticky seeds of certain plants. These are primarily cellulosic in
nature.
Hyperlink3
Silk is a minor fibre in terms of volume produced (~1% of world fibre production) but is a high
value fibre.
Composition of a typical silk fibre

Element %
Fibroin 70-80
 Sericin 20-30
Waxy matter 0.4-0.8
Inorganic matter 1.2-1.6
Pigment 0.7
The major impurity in a silk fibre is sericin. Both Fibroin, which form the actual silk fibre and
the sericin are proteins. Hence some of the approaches for removal of sericin may result in
some damage to silk (fibroin) also.

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