Influence of yarn count and blend ratio on bursting

strength of single jersey knitted fabric.

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 Book Content

Chapter No. Chapter Name Page No

Chapter Abstract 3

Chapter Introduction 5

Chapter Material & Method 11

Chapter Data Analysis 16

Chapter Result & Discussion 19

Chapter Conclusion 21

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Chapter-1
Abstract

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ABSTRACT

In order to determine the serviceability of knitted garment, bursting strength is a

very important physical property of knitted fabric. This property affects other
mechanical properties also. Bursting strength test can analyze that how much
stress can be applied on knitted fabric during regular use. It is an important
quality of knitted fabric which can satisfy the buyer requirement as well as
customer demand. In this project report, the effect of blend ratio and count of
yarn on the bursting strength of knitted fabric was determined and the origin of
this behavior has been discussed. To carry out the project, same circular
knitting machine and same knitting parameters were used to produce 100%
single jersey knitted fabric with polyester-cotton blended yarns having
various blend ratio and yarn count. A significant result was found that the
more ratio of polyester in yarn, the more fabric strength and vice versa when
yarn count was same. On the other hand the coarser the yarn used, the more
stronger fabric was produced with same blend ratio.

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Chapter-2
Introduction

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Introduction:
The physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics are very important in many
ways. Among these properties, the bursting strength is extremely important. Bursting
strength is the force that must be exerted perpendicularly on the fabric surface to break
off fabric. Since measurements of the tensile strength in the wale and course directions in
knitted fabrics are not suitable, testing the bursting strength, which is the strength against
multi directional forces, becomes important especially for knitted fabrics. Single jersey
cotton weft knitted fabrics tend to undergo a certain dimensional changes due to different
yarn parameters and knitting parameters. The investigation was carried out to compare
the effect of different yarn counts & blend ratio on the bursting strength of knitted fabric.

Yarn Count:
Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter)
of the yarn and also indicate the relationship between length and weight (the
mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn.

Types of Yarn Count System:

 Direct Count System

 Indirect Count System

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 1. Direct Count System:
The Direct system of count is based on measuring the weight per fixed unit length of
yarn.

The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:

N= (W×l) / L
Where,
N =Yarn count
W =Weight of the sample
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample

Numbering system Unit of length L Unit of weight W

Tex 1000m No of grams

Denier 9000 m No of grams

Jute count 14400yds No of lbs

The resultant count for direct system:

 When count is same:

No. of ply × Count of Individual yarn
i.e. Three ply of yarn (same count) is used like 20D, their Resultant count is
3×20D= 60 D

 When count is different:

If yarns of three different count is used together, like 20D, 30D, 50D
R= R1+R2+R3+……..+Rn
R= (20+30+50) D
R= 100D

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2. Indirect Count System:
The Indirect system of count is based on measuring the length per fixed unit weight of
yarn.
The following formula is used to calculate they are count:
N = (L×w)/(W×l)
Where,
N =Yarn count
W =Weight of the sample
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample
w = Unit of weight of the sample.

Numbering system Unit of Length (l) Unit of weight (W)

English count, Ne 840 yds 1 pound (lb.)

Metric count, Nm 1000m 1 kg

Worsted Count 560 yard 1 pound (lb.)

The resultant count for indirect system:

 When count is same:
Count of Individual yarn /No of ply
I.e. Three kinds of yarn (same count) is ply like 30 Ne, their Resultant count is
30Ne/3=10Ne

 When count is different:

If three kinds of yarn is plied together, like 20Ne, 30Ne, 50Ne
1/R=1/R1+1/R2+1/R3+…….1/Rn
1/R=1/20+1/30+1/50
1/R=1/.1033333Ne
R= 9.6Ne

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Stitch length:
The length of yarn in a knitted loop. It has a direct effect on GSM
Low Stich length= High GSM
High Stitch length= Low GSM

Wales per inch:

A wale is a vertical column of loops produced by the same needle
knitting at successive knitting cycle. The number of wales determines the
width of fabric and they are measured in unit wales per inch
Wales

Course per inch:

Courses are rows of loops across the width of fabric produced by adjacent
needlesduring the same knitting cycle are measured in unit of course per
inch.
Course

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Blend ratio:
Yarn properties can be altered through blending fibers. According to
the requirement different properties can be achieved by different
blending ratios. Among the different blends cotton and polyester, cotton
and wool, wool and acrylic, cotton and nylon, jute and acrylic, cotton and
rayon etc are generally used.
For example: 65% cotton, 35% polyester is a commonly used blend ratio.

CVC:
CVC means Chief Value Cotton which describes a blend of cotton and
polyesterin the yarns. Generally it consists more than 50% (usually about
55%) is cottonfiber, the rest is synthetic fiber.

PC:
PC means polyester cotton. In a PC yarn majority percent fibers are
polyester and the rest are cotton.

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 Chapter -3
Material and Method

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Materials:
Yarn count and blend ratio:
 28Ne CVC (cotton 65%, polyester35%)
 28Ne CVC (cotton 60%, polyester40%)
 28Ne CVC (cotton 80%, polyester20%)

 CVC 60/40 (30Ne)

 CVC 60/40 (24Ne)
 CVC 60/40 (20Ne)

List of machines used:

1. Circular Knitting M/C
2. Bursting strength tester

Specification of machine no: 01

Name: Circular knitting machine
Machine type: Single Jersey
M/C Diameter: 23 inch
Gauge: 24
No of feeder: 58
Stitch length: 2.65 mm
RPM: 12
Brand:Pai Lung

Origin: Taiwan
Figure: Circular knitting Machine

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Specification of machine no:02
Name: Bursting strength tester:
Machine type: Bursting strength tester.
Brand: James H Heal
Origin: England
Model: 810

Figure: Bursting tester

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Technical Components of M/C 2:
 Doom (7.3 𝒄𝒎𝟐 or 50𝒄𝒎𝟐 )
 Clamp Ring (7.3 𝒄𝒎𝟐 or 50𝒄𝒎𝟐 )
 Diaphragm (7.3 𝒄𝒎𝟐 or 50𝒄𝒎𝟐 )
 Raised Insert (7.3 𝒄𝒎𝟐 or 50𝒄𝒎𝟐 )
 O-ring Seal
 Safety Guard

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Methods:
Working procedure:(forpreparing knittedfabrics)
 Yarn is placed in Cone
 The yarn package is placed in the creel
 Feeding the yarn
 Set the m/c as per design & GSM, Stitch length
 Knitting
 Withdraw the roll fabric and weighting
 Roll marking
 Inspection
 Numbering

Bursting test procedure: ISO 13938:2 1999(TEXTILE)

 Switched on the m/c
 Testing method is selected from setting (ISO 13938:2)
 Safety guard is removed from the m/c.
 Raised Insert is placed on O-ring seal; diaphragm is placed on it and is
clamped by clamp ring.
 Then sample is placed on diaphragm under the doom.
 Pressed the test button
 Test data is collected from connected computer.

Precaution:
 Samples are checked by Q.C.
 Fabrics are tested after dry relaxation state.
 Tests are carried out at standard testing atmosphere.
 Tests were carried out at same m/c settings.

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Chapter -4
Data analysis

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 Experimental data: 01

Yarn Count Blend Ratio Bursting Strength(Kpa)

60% Cotton
40% Polyester 233.8

65% Cotton
28Ne 35% Polyester 207.6

80% Cotton
20% Polyester 179.1

According to this chart we have found the result that when the blend of cotton
ratio is increased in the yarn then the bursting strength of knitted fabric is
decreased and vice versa.

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Experimental data: 02
Blend Ratio Yarn Count Bursting Strength(Kpa)

30Ne 165.4
60% Cotton 24Ne 251
40% Polyester
20Ne 282.6

According to this chart, we have found the result that when the count (indirect)
of yarn is decreased then the bursting strength of knitted fabric is increased and
vice versa.

i.e: Finer the yarn, the weaker the fabric and coarser the yarn stronger the
fabric.

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 Chapter-5
Result and discussion

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Result and discussion:

From the experimental data analysis we get the results on bursting

strength of single jersey knit fabric.
The results for (bursting strength) of single jersey knitted fabric are:
 We have found the result that when the blend of polyester ratio is
increased in the yarn, then the bursting strength of knitted fabric is
also increased and vice versa.

Below table is showing the reason of such kind of behavior:

Property Cotton Polyester


Type of fiber Natural Manmade

Moisture regain 8.5% 0.1%-0.4%

Tenacity 3-5 g/d 3-9 g/d

Elasticity elongation at break 5 elongation at break
to 7% 15% to 50%
Melting It doesn’t melt, Melts at 250°-255°C
temperature Decomposes at
150°C

 We have found the result that when the count (indirect) with same
blend ratio of yarn is increased then the bursting strength of knitted
fabric is also decreased and vice versa.
That means, Finer the yarn, the weaker the fabric and coarser the
yarn stronger the fabric.

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Chapter-6
Conclusion

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Conclusion:
The study has many benefits for textile manufacturer to produce
required quickly based on proper bursting strength with sufficient
accuracy to be used in predicting fabric properties that help in
producing fabric with specification from the first time. The obtained
results will be able to predict the fabric bursting strength easily and
determine the most significant parameters before manufacturing. We
faced a little bit limitation in carrying out the project because of short
yarn supply from the spinning mill. It was restricted to purchase so
many yarn for internship. So were unable to analysis the bursting
strength of knitted for other blend ratio and yarn count. Yet we
manage to carry out the project for one count and one blend ratio
which was helped to identify.

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