In response to consumer demand and

changes in consumer life-styles,

manufacturers, and retailers have developed
various size & price ranges, as well as
categories for styling and clothing types.

Apparel Classification
Apparel classification in terms of :

• Gender
• Age
• Size
• Styling
• Occasion
• Pricing
 Gender
• Womenswear
• Menswear
• Childrenwear
WOMENS WEAR CATEGORIES

Classification Descriptors

Sportswear and coordinated Designed to be merchandised as coordinated outfits. Separates

separates are items designed to mix and match.
Knitwear and sweaters Because of requirements of fabrication, knit products form their
own category.
Usually sold at retail within the sportswear category.
Active sportwear Evolved into separate category with many specializations
dedicated to specific sports
Frequently produced for both men and women
Most are separates – pants, tops, jackets.
Coats and Suits Specialized because of required construction skills. Some major
producers also produce men’s tailored goods.
Dresses Decreased activity in recent years due to fashion trends.

Evening wear Includes bridal, bridesmaids, after-five and prom specializations.

Intimate apparel Includes lingerie's, foundations and robes.

Uniforms Career apparel other than office attire.

Accessories Hosiery, handbags, small leather goods, gloves, hats/millinery,

jewelry.
MENS WEAR CATEGORIES

Classification Descriptors

Tailored Clothing Suits, coat, sport coats, slacks.

A few giant companies control most of this category.
Declining in importance with changing fashion trends.
Casual wear Evolved from dressing down in business.
Casual suits, contrasting coat and trousers.
Sweaters, knit shirts, and pants.
Men’s Furnishing A catch-all category that includes shirts, neckwear, underwear,
socks, pajamas, scarves, gloves and hats. Includes many
licensed products with designer names or logos.
Active Sportswear Growing category with many specialized products dedicated to
specific sports.
Outerwear Casual jacket, ski jackets and parkas
Moving to sportswear look with use of color and new fabrics.
Often from producers of active sportswear and rainwear.
Work Clothes Uniforms, often for specific occupations. Category has expanded
with popularity of jeans.
Rainwear and coats Tailored outerwear.
Category is shrinking as casual outerwear category expands.
CHILDREN’s WEAR CATEGORIES

Classification Descriptors

Infant wear Layettes including shirts, onesies, gowns.

Stretch coveralls, diaper pants.
Outerwear, snowsuits.
Knit sweaters, booties and hats.
Toddler wear Boy and girl sets
Shorts, pants, skirts, overalls and shirts.
Sportswear Shorts, pants, skirts, overalls.
Blouses, Shirts
Jackets, sweaters
Swimwear.
Dresses Tailored and party dresses
Jumper and blouse sets.
Outerwear Coats, jackets, parkas and snowsuits

Lingerie and Sleepwear Robes, pajamas and nightgowns. Slip, undershirts, and panties.
Hosiery
 STYLING - WOMENSWEAR
Apparel is also classified by style range.
Couture – This term is reserved for fashion that is made to order for an individual client’s
measurements. These clothes are the most expensive ( $ 5000 - $ 50,000 for a
single garment) and is reserved for a very small international clientele.
Eg. Europeans Karl Lagerfield, Christian Lacroix, Yves St. Laurent, Valentino and
Americans Arnold Scassi and John Anthony.

Designer – This category pertains to ready to wear from successful designers who own
their own business or have a “ signature collection”(with their name on the
label)($1000 to $5000) they use best of fabrics and quality mass production.
Eg. Of designer collections include Giorgio Armani, Donna karan, Ralph Lauren, as well
as the ready to wear collections of the couturiers.

Bridge – This styling & price range was created to give consumers a less expensive
alternative to designer fashion. Bridge is simply a step down in price from designer,
achieved by using less expensive fabric or different production methods. Some
designers have second line such as
CK from Calvin Klein
Donna Karan’s DKNY
Versus from Versace
Emporio from Armani
Other collections such as Ellen Tracy, dana Buchman or Adrienne Vittadini are originated
specifically for the bridge market.
Contemporary – this is revived category aimed at the style conscious
woman who wants more fashion than missy but does not want to
pay designer prices. Again, price ranges vary from bridge to budget.
Resources include ABS, BCBG, Kenar, Laundry, Max Studio, Parallel,
Ralph by Ralph Lauren

Missy- This styling category provides more conservative adaptations of

proven or accepted designer looks. Missy lines use less expensive
fabrics and less extreme silhouettes. Missy styling is available in a
variety of quality and price ranges: better, moderate & budget.
Vendors include Jones New York, Evan Picone, Koret, Leslie Fay
and Liz Claiborne.

Junior – the style range grew out of junior sizing – young styling for a
young figure. Styling is heavily influenced by the rock music scene,
television and street fashion in Europe. It also tends to be body
conscious. Typical labels include Byer, Espirit, Necessary Objects
and XOXO
Petites same as Missy
 STYLING - MENSWEAR
Designer Styling – International recognized designers often set fashion
directions in menswear. Giorgio Armani led the way to casual, soft suits that
can be worn at the office or for leisure activities. Italian collections such as
Armani, Brioni, Gucci, Kiton and Zegna are considered fashion forward.
Calvin Klein and Richard Tyler are among the prominent Americans brands.

Traditional styling – Styling is somewhat influened by the less structured

designer looks, but the primary interest is in a wide variety of suiting and
shirting fabrications.
Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, are influenced by traditional tailoring.
Traditional sportswear is also classic in styling. Formerly centered around,
tennis or golf looks, there is now a wide variety of clothing for every activity
from brands such as Polo, LaCoste and Dockers.

Contemporary – This styling is usually less expensive than designer, trendier

and aimed at a younger customer. Examples include Perry Ellis, KM by
Krizia and Nautica and Gap ( a retail brand) sportswear.
 Styling - Childrenswear
The styling of Children’s wear changes considerably by size range. The only styling
differentiation is traditional versus trendy.

Infants, Toddlers, and Young Children. Parents grandparents are the consumer.
Ease of dressing, washability, durability, and versatility are important design
considerations in clothing for young children. For infants and toddlers who have to be
dressed crotch snaps and generous necklines are important. For the toddler, ease of
dressing such as elastic waistlines is also important because children want to dress
themselves.
Novelty, color and conversational prints are important in infant, toddler and young
children’s wear. Apparel printed with licensed cartoon or television characters has
also been a phenomenal success.

Older Children – Older Children have more definite opinions on what they want to wear,
partly because of advertising, television exposure and peer group pressure. This
development has had an effect on styling in that many children’s wear manufacturers
follow junior trends for girls and young men’s trends for boys.

Men’s wear companies are making boys’wear like Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren
 Womenswear - Occassion
CATEGORY TYPES OF GARMENT

OUTERWEAR Coats, rainwear, jackets

DRESSES One- or two-piece designs and ensembles ( a dress with a jacket or coat)

BLOUSES Dressy & tailored

SUITS Jacket/skirt and jacket pants combinations

AFTER 5 & EVENING CLOTHES Formal and prom gowns and other dressy apparel; this is often called special occasion.

BRIDAL WEAR Gowns & dresses for brides, attendants and mothers -of– the –bride and groom.

SPORTSWEAR AND SEPARATES Town-and-country and spectator sportswear, such as pants, shorts and tops; sweaters; skirts; jackets;
casual dresses; jumpsuits

ACTIVEWEAR It is of two categories one is Fitness wear – clothing for participatory sports and athletic activities, such
as swimwear, tennis, dresses, running suits, cycling shorts, exercise apparel and skiwear

UNIFORMS & APRONS Aprons, smocks, housedresses and a variety of uniforms

MATERNITY Dresses, sportwear, evening clothes, suits, and blouses, designed to accommodate the special needs of
pregnant women.

INNERWEAR Brassieres, panties, shapewear, bodywear, sleepwear and others

SPECIAL NEEDS Dresses, slips, nightgowns, hosiery and other intimate apparel designed with snaps or velcro for ease of
use by elderly or physically-challenged women.
 Pricing - Childrenswear
In Childrenswear price ranges are broader than in women’s or
men’swear. Also some manufacturers produce lines in several price
ranges and often manufacture for both boys and girls in multiple size
ranges.

Better resources provide fashion direction, quality fabrics and

workmanship. Vendors include Dorissa, Sylvia Whyte, Polo and
Tommy Hilifiger.

Moderate includes a wide range of prices and labels at average prices

such as espirit, Little Me, rae Editions and Youngsport etc.

Popular priced merchandise is offered by Byer, carter’s Healthtex and

Rampage.
 Pricing - Menswear
Custom-tailored suits are made with the finest construction and fabrics. Suits
from Savile Row in London, for example $ 3000. Much of the inner, hidden
construction is done by hand.

Designer ready-made suits at retail prices run upward from $ 1000 and
sportcoats cost upward from $500. Designer suits and sportswear are also
made from fine fabrics; but they are not made to measure and quality
varies.

Bridge suits and sportswear like women’s wear are a step down in price from
designer. This can also mean a step down in fabric quality and
workmanship.

Moderate suits have a broad range of prices, usually from $ 325 to $650.
Many large retailers such as Macy’s and Nordstrom, rely heavily on private-
label merchandise in this price range in order to control price.

Regular-priced suits are those under $325, the most affordable price range.
Many discounters and mass merchants also offer private label merchandise
at this price range.
 Pricing - Womenswear
Womens apparel is produced and marketed at a
wide range of wholesale prices. Major factors
contributing to the wholesale price of a garment
are:
The quality of materials
The quality of workmanship
The amount and type of labor required in the
production process
The executive and sales position structure of the
organization
Showroom rent and business overhead.
 Price zones
The women’s ready-to-wear markets has 6 major price zones. In order from the most to least expensive, they are as
follows:
1. Designer Signature. The highest price zone includes lines by such name designers as Bill Blass, Ralph
Lauren, Oscar de la Renta, calvin Klein, donna Karan, jean-Paul, gaultier and John galliano. A jacket cost $
1000
2. Bridge. This zone is so named as it bridges the price ranges between designer and better prices. Bridge
merchandise usually costs 1/3rd to ½ of designer prices. A jacket cost $250. Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger, DKNY
by Donna Karan, Calvin Klein’s CK, Ellen Tracy, tahari, Dana Buchman are positioned as bridge companies
offering bridge prices.
3. Contemporary: This new zone is favored by young designers who want to enter the market with innovative,
designer qualit lines but at the same time, seek a broader market than that of the designer signature zone. By
using less expensive fabrics and locating in lower rent spaces they can offer their lines at lower prices. Jackets
at whole sale from $ 90 to $ 120.
“ Contemporary is definitely growing at the store level, but it is sandwiched in between bridge and
better.”Labels in this zone include Laundry by Shelli Segal, Vivienne Tam, Cynthia, Rowley, Gernimo, catalyst
and Misc
4. Better – Apparel in this zone is usually medium to high in price. Familiar labels include Liz Claiborne, Chaus,
nautica, evan Picone, harve Benard, J.H. collectibles, karen kane. They appeal to middle class market,
offering fashionable clothes at an affordable price.A jacket sells for about $160
5. Moderate – As the name suggests, this zone includes lines of nationally advertised makers such as Guess,
espirit, levi strauss, Ellen Figg, Leslie Fay which have less prestige than lines with designer ames but still
appeal to middle class consumers. Moderate merchandise is sold mostly in chain stores or in departmental
stores.
6. Budget – The lowest price zone is sometimes referred to as the ‘promotional’ or ‘mass’ market. Brands such
as Wrangler, Donkenny are under budget price zone.

New high end for the super rich. Special pieces in very limited quantities, at astronomical prices. This zone aimed at
people who crave exclusivity and have the means to afford it.
Ralph Lauren – Purple Label Custom collection
Bill Blass and oscar de lanta for developing exclusive designs for special customers.
 Sizing
International Dress Sizes

American 8 10 12 14 16

British 10 12 14 16 18

French 40 42 44 46 48

German 36 38 40 42 44
 Size Ranges - Womenswear
Junior – customers sizes 1 to 13 have a less developed figure and a
shorter back waist length ( a higher waistline) than missy figures.
This figure is usually equated with a slim young customer.
Missy sizes 6 to 16 ( or 4 to 14) are for the mature female figure,
usually based on height of approximately 5 foot 7 inches. For missy
separates some blouses & sweaters are sized30 to 36 ( 8 – 14);
others may be sized small, medium or large.
Petite sizes are created for the woman who is less than 5 foot 4 inches
tal. Sizes range from 0 to 16.
Large or women’s sizes range from 14W to 32 W but are usually limited
to 16W to 26W.Sometimes these sizes are represented as 1X ( 16
to 18). 2X ( 20 to 22), 3X ( 24 to 26). Large sized petites are marked
WP.
 Sizing for Women’swear

Size Size Range Height Characteristics

Adult women of average proportions.

Misses Even sizes, 4-14 5’5” – 5’7”

Mature figure with average proportions.

Petites Even sizes, 0-14 Under 5’4”

Mature figure with average proportions.

Talls Even sizes, 6T-18T Over 5’7” upto 6’1” * Especially in bottom categories (skirts &
pants)
Even sizes, Full mature proportions with longer torso
Women’s 34W-52W or 1X (16-18), 5’5” + and sleeves.
2X (20-22), 3X (24-26)
Full figure.
Half-sizes Even sizes, 5’4” and under
12 1/2 -26 1/2
Young women with slim, youthful
Juniors Uneven sizes, 3 -13 5’6” and under proportions, a less developed figure, and a
higher bust line and waistline than misses.
Shorter torso & less mature body
development
Youthful, slim proportions.
Petite Juniors Uneven sizes, 5’4” or less
3P-13P
 Size Ranges - Menswear
Men’s suit range in size from 36 to 44 ( with additional large sizes to
50) originally based on chest measurements. Lengths are
designated after the size number: R for Regular, S for short, L for
Long. European sizes are 46 to 54 ( add 10 to each American size).
Young men’s sizes have a narrower fir in the jacket and hip than
regular men’s sizes. There has been an attempt to simplify men’s
sizing because traditional sizing requires a huge inventory or many
cobinations of chest and length measurements. Men also enjoy free
alteration services at most mens stores and departments.
Dress Shirts are sized by collar measurements ( inches in America and
cms in europe) and sleeve length. Sport shirts and sweaters are
sized in small, medium, large and extra large. Trousers are sized by
waist and inseam measurements. Dress slacks are left unhemmed
to be finished by store’s tailor asa customer service.
 Jacket Lengths Height Chest Measurement
Stocked
Short Under 5’7” 36-44

Regular 5’8”-5’11” 36-50

Long 6’0”-6’3” 41-48

Extra long 6’4” + 42-50

 Suit cut Characteristics

American (Standard cut) • Usually single breasted

• Slightly padded shoulders
• Lower cut armholes
• Single center back vent
• Hang loosely from the shoulders, gently draping over
the body with a 6” drop.
European • Often double breasted
• More padding in the shoulders
• Higher cut armholes
• No or two back vents
• Closely fit the waist and body with a 7’9” drop.
British • Fall between the American and European cuts
•Slightly padded shoulders
•Conform closer to the body than American cuts
• Two back vents
 Children’s wear – sizing

Sizing is separated by age groups

New born sizes are layette( 0 to 11 pounds) 3, 6, 9 months.
Infant sizes are based on age in months, usually 12, 18,
and 24 months. In Europe sizes are based on the length
of the baby or the height of the child.
Toddler apparel for the child who has learned to walk are
sized 2T, 3T and 4 T. At this point sizes separate for
boys and girls.
Girls apparel is sized 4 to 6X, 7 to 16 and preteen 6 to 14.
Young teens wear young junior 3 to 13.
Boys sizes are 4 to 7 and 8 to 20.
 Relationship of Style, Size and Price Ranges in Womenswear

Style Range Styling Age Size Range Figure Price Range

Designer Unique, top name designer 25 and up Missy 4 - 12 Missy:mature, slim Designer
fashion
Bridge Designer fashion 25 and up Missy 4 - 12 Missy:mature, slim Bridge

Missy Adaptations if fashion looks 25 and up Missy 4 - 14 Missy:mature, 5- Better to budget

7inches block

Petites Same as missy 25 and up Petite 0 - 14 Missy: under 5- Better to budget

4inches

Women’s or Same as missy plus some 18 and up 16 – 26W or 16- Missy:large Better to budget
large sizes junior looks 26WP size+some petite
Contemporary trendy 20 - 40 Missy 4 - 12 Missy:slim Better to budget

Junior Youthful, trendy, figure- 13 - 25 Juniors 3 - 15 Not fully Better to budget

conscious developed