Textile Embossing

an Innovative Fabric Modification Process

by
Deborah Lynn Dixon

Introduction:

emBELLAtex™  is a fabric modification process developed for embossing textiles. It is easy
and cost effective, requiring much less time than labor-intensive embroidery or
handbeading. It is lightweight and flexible. It can be gently washed or dry cleaned.

The process emBELLAtex™ and product emBELLAtex™ paste, ,   were developed in an effort to
convert inexpensive fabrics into elaborate brocades, laces, and appliqués for court
presentation gowns worn at the Krewe of Contraband’s annual Mardi Gras Ball in Lake
Charles, Louisiana.

The paste is made up of three parts. A waterbased carrier, a light reflective filler, and a
colorant, glitter. The formula is held as a Trade Secret by Ides of March Design Group,
Ltd.

The paste can be tinted with acrylic paint to reduce with shine of the glitter.
Storing the paste in an airtight container such as a zip top bag, without the colorant attains
optimum shelf life. If stored in a cool place the paste has a shelf life of a year. With glitter
added to the paste the shelf life is about 6 weeks, but it can be brought back to a workable
consistency (cake icing) by adding more of the carrier.

This presentation chronicles the use of emBELLAtex™ in creating a three color border on
ivory organdy. The border was created for a court presentation gown worn at the 2014
Krewe of Contraband Mardi Gras Ball, theme: An Evening at the Ballet, princess gown:
The Sleeping Beauty. The border is a companion design to the “Crown with Vine”
embossed Brocade and Placardé also used on the gown.

  1  
 Materials

Embossing
¾” thick builders Styrofoam board for mounting, comes in 4’ x 8’ sheets
straight pins
.7 mil clear plastic sheeting
printed pattern to scale (number of repeats to be embossed)
emBELLAtex™ embossing paste
glitter colors
plastic card (recycled room “key” card or credit card)
Stencils
waterproof gloves
sheer organdy yardage

Cleaning Stencils
glass surface (glass table top)
scraper (putty knife or razor blade in holder)
water tank (ice chest, interior lined with garbage bag for easier cleanup)
water bath (add a couple drops of Dawn liquid dish detergent and 1tsp of bleach)
scrub brush
drying rack
clothes pins
paper towels
cloth towels
alcohol

  2  
 Artwork

The pattern repeat of the border was brought up to a scale of 9 ½” h x 26”w.

For ease in placement on curved hem and train the pattern repeat was divided into two
sections (a & b). The hem of the gown required 6 repeats of the pattern.

Section “b”
Section “a”
Three colors were used to create the border, purple, gold and green.
A stencil was made for each layer of the color.
The stencils were labeled to show the order of color placement and section of pattern
repeat. Example: 1a of 3 (1 first layer of color Purple; “a” section of pattern repeat;
“of 3” denotes total number of layers of color to be applied)

                                                                                                               
1  (Roessing,  1991)  

  3  
 Pattern Placement

Plastic sheeting was placed over the area of the gown where the embossed border would
be added. The gown’s hem was traced, along with the bottom edge of the brocade
pattern. The center front, center back, and the side seams were marked as well.

Center front Side seam

Hemline

PATTERN
The shape of the gown’s hem was traced OVERLAP
on plastic.

The plastic outline was mounted to the Styrofoam board. Copies of the pattern repeat
were placed within the outline and taped into place.

Pattern overlaps were planned so that a seam did not interrupt the pattern.

A second layer of plastic was placed over the pattern layout to protect the paper pattern
from the wet paste.

The fabric to be embossed was placed over the plastic and pinned to the board. The fabric
was snug but not so tight as to distort the grain when the paste dries.

  4  
 Embossing Paste

emBELLAtex™ embossing paste is made up of 3 parts (carrier, filler, colorant). Glitter is the
colorant which is added just before embossing to extend the shelf life of the paste.
Without the colorant emBELLAtex™ embossing paste has a shelf life of up to a year if stored
in an airtight bag in a cool place.

Mix colorant into paste.

amount of paste x .12 = amount of glitter to be added

example: 6.25 oz paste x .12 = .75 oz glitter

*do not use less than an 88% paste : 12% glitter ratio or the embossing will look milky

The paste should be about the consistency of cake icing. If the paste becomes to thick
once the glitter is added it can be thinned by adding more carrier.

Put paste in a zip top bag, add the glitter, mix well keeping mixture at bottom of the bag.
Remove as much air as possible by rolling the bag on itself pressing the air out of the
opening. Seal bag once all air is removed. Store in cool place.

  5  
 em BELLA tex ™    
Embossing Steps

STENCIL    1a  of    3  

PLASTIC  CARD  
       “spreader”  
GLOVES    
  PASTE    

Assembled tray with bags of paste, pins, and plastic card.

Begin with stencil 1a of 3

1. Match the stencil to the paper pattern

2. Secure stencil with a couple pins
3. Load the short side of the spreader (plastic card) with paste, about ¼ inch wide and
a ¼ inch deep the width of the spreader
4. Using short swipes, gently push the paste in to the fabric. Follow the curves of the
design to avoid getting paste under the stencil’s edge
5. Add more paste to spreader when needed
6. Continue working in sections until the entire area of the stencil pattern is covered
work quickly keeping thickness of coverage even and avoid going over areas once
paste has been applied
7. Carefully remove pins from the stencil
8. Remove stencil from fabric by anchoring one corner with your fingers while lifting
the opposite corner and rolling the stencil up and away towards the anchored
corner
9. Once the stencil clears the wet embossed design lift it from the fabric
10. Check the back of the stencil for any paste that may have seeped under the stencil
11. Move the stencil to the next area of the pattern and repeat steps 1-10

Depending on the size of the stenciled area and intricacy of the stencil design at
least 3 placements can be completed before it is necessary to clean the stencil.

  6  
 Stencil Cleaning

1. place stencil face up on glass surface

2. scrape off excess paste with spreader
3. return paste to bag, mix in and roll bag on itself to keep air out
4. emerse stencil into water tank
5. scrub stencil with brush as it is removed from the water
6. hang to drip dry
7. clean glass area by scraping any paste that was left behind, discard this paste
8. place towel on glass surface
9. lay drying stencil on towel and dry both sides of stencil before continuing to emboss

Helpful tips:
Do not allow stencil to stay in bottom of water tank, it will make it much harder
to clean because the glitter in the water adheres to the stencil material

If the glass surface gets a film on it from constant cleaning of stencils it can
be removed with alcohol.

Once a project is completed all stencils can be soaked in alcohol for a thorough
cleaning before being stored. The alcohol may remove the labeling depending
on how long the stencils soak.

Once the entire board is filled with the layer 1a of 3 place it in front of a fan to speed the
drying time.

1a of 3
When a skin has formed on the paste lightly touch it to see if it will lift. The cooler the
embossing feels the wetter it is. Once it does not lift you can continue with the next layer
of color, 1b of 3.

  7  
 1b of 3

2a of 3
 

2b of 3
 

  8  
 3a of 3
 

3b of 3
 

Embossing Tips:
Once the embossing has dried (12-24 hours) the fabric can be removed from
the board.

The embossed fabric can be hung with the plastic sheeting on the back until
ready to use.

When ready to use remove the plastic sheeting.

In a hurry? Remove the plastic sheeting, secure the fabric face side down on a
board and place in front of a fan for several hours

Once the plastic sheeting is removed it is best to attach it to the

garment it was made for, or store it between layers of parchment or wax paper.

The back side of the embossing is tacky. The tack can be removed by pressing
the wrong side of the embossing with a dry iron and a press cloth.

  9  
 Embossed Border applied to gown
 

Bibliography

Roessing, 1991)

  10  
Bibliography  
Roessing,  H.  (1991).  2,286  Traditional  Stencil  Designs.  Philadelphia,  PA,  USA:  Dover  
Publications  with  The  Athenaeum  of  Philadelphia.  
 
Photography by Deborah Lynn Dixon

emBELLAtex™ paste is available through Ides of March Design Group, Ltd.,

www.idesofmarchdesign.com

  11