Cycle sewing machines 2

Index
Overview
Cycle sewing machine
Latest development
Button sewing
Button-hole
Bar tack
Key hole
Conclusion
Experience
Bibliography

Cycle sewing machines 3

Overview

Cycle sewing machines 4

Cycle sewing machine
Cycle sewing machines are those sewing machines that sew a given stitching
pattern automatically as soon as the operator starts the machine, after positioning the
garment section in the machine. Buttonhole machine, Button sewing machines,
bar tacking machines are some examples.

The operator:
• Positions the garment
• Starts the machine
• And extracts the garment after the machine stops automatically at the end of
its sewing cycle,

It is sometimes possible for an operator to operate two or more machines

alternately at one time. The longer the sewing time, and the shorter the positioning
plus extraction time, the more machines an operator can service simultaneously at one
time.

For example if the time to unload a buttonhole machine, is less than the time for
sewing a buttonhole, one operator can unload and load one buttonhole machine while
a second buttonhole machine is sewing a buttonhole, by having both machines
sufficiently close to each other, in front of the operator.

This is also economical sometimes when unload time plus load time is slightly
more than the sewing time even if the machine automatically sews a series of
buttonholes, Bar tacking etc. with only one loading of the garment.

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Button attaching

Specifications
• Cylinder bed
• 1 needle
• Vertical bobbin (in case of lockstitch)
• Looper (in case of chain stitch)
• 1 or 2 threads.
• Clamp feed
• 301 or 401 stitch

The variables in the button sewing machines are

1. The size and shape of the button which determines the design of the button clamp,
2. The number and disposition of the holes,
3. The form of stitching where there are four holes (this may be cross over or
parallel-known as swiss kiss)
4. Whether the button has sewn shank or neck,
5. The stitch type (lockstitch or chain stitch) and
6. The number of stitches.

Button
Buttons may be flat with two or four holes or they may have a shank on the
back. Where they are flat, a thread may be required so that there is space behind the
button for thickness of the garment when fastened. This can be created by means of a
spacing finger over the button during sewing.

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 In case of the shank button, it is clamped on its side during sewing and the
needle passes alternately into the garment and then into the hole in the shank and then
into the garment.

Stitch
The advantage of lockstitch sewing is the security but its disadvantage is an
untidy look to the stitching on the other side of the fabric from the button. A chain
stitch button sewer gives a cleaner appearance at the back but less security.

For tailored garments machines are available sewing stitch type 209 and
giving the appearance of a hand sewn button. The machine sews the button, wraps the
thread shank, and secures thee stitching by passing the last few stitches through the
thread of the shank. The front edge of the garment is presented folded to the needle so
that the minimum amount of stitching appears on the reverse side. This increases
security.

On the basic machines sewing two or four hole buttons with lock stitch or
chain stitch, the requirement for the operator to position the button in the clamp can
be avoided, where long runs justify it, by using a hopper feed which automatically
feeds the buttons to the clamp at the needle point. For standard garments such as
shirts, the same types of sequential machines are available for sewing buttons.

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Latest developments in Button attaching machine
• Computer controlled

• Higher productivity
The machine achieves sewing speed of 2,700rpm. The machine's starting,
stopping, thread-trimming and automatic presser lifting speeds have been increased to
significantly shorten total cycle time.

• Excellent quality
Newly developed needle thread grasping mechanism helps produce consistent
knot tying at the beginning of sewing. (This device has been factory-set to “invoking
prohibited” status at the time of delivery.) Auto lifter mechanism The machine is
provided as standard with auto-lifter that uses a new stepping-motor system. This
helps reduce operator fatigue. It is also possible to change over the stroke of the auto-
lifter from a onestep stroke to a double-step stroke, which offers easier positioning of
a material on the machine. For the double-step stroke, an intermediate stopping height
can be established on the operation panel. The work clamp foot lift can be set to a
maximum of 13mm.

• Oil stains are eliminated

Advanced dry-head technology, the frame (needle bar and thread take-up) no
longer requires lubrication. This prevents the material from being stained with
lubricating oil. Just a small quantity of clean oil is supplied from the oil tank to the
hook.

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• Many different sewing patterns
The machine is provided as standard with 50 different sewing patterns. The
machine permits easy changeover of sewing patterns for effortless execution of an
inexhaustible range of sewing specifications.

• Sewing starting position can be altered

In cases where the needle entry point for button sewing is to be corrected, the
sewing starting point can be corrected without the adjustment of the relevant
mechanism.

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• Automatic feeder
The machine and button feeder are connected and run together. It starts sewing
a button by pressing a pedal, thread trimmer is activated after sewing a button, and
button feeder sets the next button in position automatically.

• Active thread tension mechanism

Since the machine is provided with active tension mechanism, it is able to set a
needle thread tension that matches various sewing conditions (such as thread, material
and sewing speed) on the operation panel, store the data in memory and reproduce it.
The needle thread tension can be set separately according to the portion of a seam,
such as the beginning of a seam, during sewing and end of the seam (fastening stitch).

Sl no. Specifications JUKI Brother

(LK-1903A) (BM-917)
1 Computer controlled Y Y
2 Higher productivity Y Y
3 Excellent quality Y Y
4 Oil stains are eliminated Y Y
5 Many different sewing patterns Y Y
6 Sewing starting position can be altered Y Y
7 Automatic feeder Y Y
8 Active thread tension mechanism Y Y

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Button hole and keyhole
These come in a variety of types according to the type of button hole needed
on the garment. The simplest buttonholes are used on shirts, blouses and other
lightweight garments and the more complex ones on the heavy tailored garments.

Specifications
• 1 needle
• Raised bed
• Clamp feed
• 2 threads
• 304 or 401 stitch

The variables in the buttonhole machines are

1. The form and size of the buttonhole,
2. The stitch type
3. The stitch bight
4. The stitch density
5. Whether the buttonhole is cut before or after sewing, and
6. The presence or absence of a gimp.

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Types of stitches
1. A simple circle, where the stitches radiate from the centre of an eyelet hole
2. Two legs on either side of a straight cut with bartack at both ends as in a shirt
3. A continuous sewing up one leg, round the end and down the other without a
cut, as in sham buttonholes on the cuff of jackets
4. A buttonhole similar in form but larger in length and bight, and with the hole
partially or wholly cut and a separate bartack closing off the end as on lapels
of jackets
5. A buttonhole with two legs and an eyelet hole at one end, with a separate
bartack closing off the other end, as on the fronts of jackets and overcoats
6. A variation in which the second leg is sewn over the first stitches of the first
leg to close off the end, as frequently on knitwear
7. An eyelet ended lapel type buttonhole , the edges of which are lightly over
sewn, known as cut and serge, which does no more than provide a firm edge to
receive a hand sewn buttonhole.

Cut before
The choice between cut before and cut after machines applies principally to
tailored outerwear.
The advantage of cut before buttonhole is a neat appearance with the thread
covering the raw edges of the hole effectively.
The disadvantages are that once the sewing cycle has begun the position of the
hole cannot be altered and that with the fabric flagging slightly at the edge of the hole
the regularity of the stitch formation may vary.

Cut after
The advantages of cut after buttonholes are that the edge of the fabric gives
some protection to the thread, the fabric is more stable during sewing and
repositioning is possible after the machine cycle begins if an error is detected.
The main disadvantage relates to the finished appearance of the buttonhole,
with the cut ends of the fibres protruding between the stitches; the worst appearance is
on the front of jackets with a dark coloured outer fabric and a light coloured
interlining. This style of buttonhole is also used on denim jackets and the jeans of the
type which are laundered before sale to give a worn look. In this case the cut before

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buttonhole is preferable as the severity of the laundering process causes a very untidy
appearance on cut after buttonholes.

Gimp thread
Gimp is a stiffened thread positioned at the end of the buttonhole under the
stitching when the finished buttonhole requires reinforcement to preserve its shape
and bulk to raise the purl effect of the stitch.

Stitch
The choice between lock stitch and chain stitch is affected by the security
requirements of the hole, the finished appearance required and the relative costs
involved.
In general buttonholes on tailored outerwear make use of a two thread chain
stitch, the chain effect giving an attractive purl appearance to the buttonhole. The
simpler shape of a buttonhole on shirts and other light weight garments is often sewn
with single thread chain stitch and in some cases the sewing is done inside out of the
garment so that the purl side of the back of the stitch is on the right side. Increasing
use of lock stitch buttonhole sewing to give greater security on these kinds of
garments. For shirts where the garment shape remains the same and the fronts can be
buttonholed before assembly, sequential machines are available which sew all the
buttonholes on the front, moving the garment part along by the correct amount
between each and stacking it at the end.

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Latest developments in buttonhole machine

• Digital operation panel

• Computer controlled thread tension mechanism

Needle and Looper thread tensions can be digitally established on the
operation panel according to sewing conditions. Data can be registered on a pattern-by
pattern basis to easily reproduce the same sewing conditions. With this capability,
machine responds immediately to material changes, significantly reducing the time
required for setup changes or adjustments. The machine also ensures the consistent
production of high-quality seams.

• Separate thread tensions for various sections of the buttonhole

Thread tensions can be separately established for various sections of a
buttonhole such as eyelet sections and parallel sections. Thread tensions for the
beginning and end of sewing can also be separately established. This helps prevent
loose stitches or slip-off or ravelling of thread at the beginning of sewing.

• Quicker threading of machine

Fewer parts need to be threaded; the machine can be threaded more quickly
and easily than conventional buttonholing machines.

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• Vertically driven cloth cutting knife controlled by a stepping motor.
The knife is controlled by a stepping motor. This enables easy adjustment of
the knife pressure on the operation panel to suit the material to be used, thereby
preventing irregular cutting.
Data on knife pressure can be registered on pattern-by-pattern basis to
establish the best-suited knife pressure according to sewing specifications. Adequate
knife pressure improves durability of cloth-cutting knife and knife guard.
Selection between the cut-before knife and cut-after knife can be made on the
operation panel.
The stepping-motor-controlled cloth-cutting knife is free from the troubles
likely to affect air-driven knives, including dull cutting and the breakage of parts such
as the knife-driving arm.
In addition, a large-capacity compressor is no longer required since the
machine uses less compressed air.

• Separately driven right and left work clamps.

The right and left work clamps are separately driven by independent air cylinders.
With this mechanism, the work clamps reliably clamp materials of different
thicknesses to prevent the materials from flopping.
• Standard stitches
The machine has been provided with designs in it

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• Reliable overall thread trimming mechanism
Needle threads, looper threads and gimps are cut to leave longer threads on the
material. The thread trimmer cuts the thread on the material to lengths that allow the
machine to easily retain the thread ends. This facilitates the subsequent bartacking
process.

• Shortened machine time

• Machine head that efficiently sews longitudinal buttonholes.

The machine head has a wider space under the work clamps to permit easy
placement of a sewing product, thereby improving workability. The semi-sunken
machine head promises easy placement and smooth handling of sewing products. The
amount of material opened can be easily adjusted using the screw mounted outside the
machine head.

• Improvements of working environment.

Designed without a clutch mechanism or stopmotion mechanism, the machine
produces no stop-motion noise. The machine automatically reclaims cloth chips after
cloth cutting action to keep the working environment cleaner.

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• Direct-drive motor is adopted.
A direct-drive method is provided that connects a compact AC servomotor
directly to the hook-driving shaft. The quick start up and increased stopping accuracy
obtained as results guarantees outstanding responsiveness. In addition, the direct-drive
motor does not use a V-belt to reduce power consumption.

• Easy operation
No need for adjustments such as replacing cutter cams when changing number
of stitches. The cutter vertical movements are driven by a double position solenoid. If
cutter is not used, it can be deactivated at the press of a key. The cutter operates
without slowing down the sewing machine, and the cutter response time is also fast,
so that cycle time is reduced and productivity is increased.

• Quiet operating environment

Adoption of a clutch less mechanism ensures quieter operating environment
and increased durability.

• Under lay
Up to four patterns can be combined and sewn together.

Rectangle saw shape sew together zigzag

1) Rectangle
Effective for preventing material from stretching.
2) saw shape
Useful for preventing dimples from forming during bar tacking.
3) sew together
The pile of fluffy fabric is pressed down before sewing so that the buttonhole
finish looks more attractive.
4) Zigzag
Effective for preventing seam from unravelling.

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• Two cycle sewing
When set to two cycle cross sewing, the zigzag stitches sewn during the first
and second cycles do not overlap with each other, so that the sewing pitch appears
finer and the finish looks even more attractive.

• Skipped stitches are reduced

The shapes of the looper, the thread takeup amount and some other parts have
been reviewed. Skipped stitches and insufficient thread tightening due to a change of
thread tension are reduced, regardless of types of threads. The range of sewing
capability has been enlarged.

• Durability of the machine has been improved

The rigidity of the machine arm has been enhanced. Nicking of the knife is
substantially reduced by minimising lateral movement of the hammer against the
knife.

• Low power consumption

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Sl no Specification JUKI Brother
(MEB -3200) (RD-9820)

1 Digital operation panel Y Y

2 Computer controlled thread tension mechanism Y
3 Separate thread tensions for various sections of the Y
buttonhole
4 Quicker threading of machine Y
5 Vertically driven cloth cutting knife controlled by a Y Y
stepping motor.
6 Separately driven right and left work clamps. Y
7 Standard stitches Y Y
8 Reliable overall thread trimming mechanism Y Y
9 Shortened machine time Y Y
10 Machine head that efficiently sews longitudinal Y Y
buttonholes.
11 Improvements of working environment. Y Y
12 Direct-drive motor is adopted. Y Y
13 Easy operation Y Y
14 Quiet operating environment Y
15 Under lay Y
16 Two cycle sewing Y
17 Skipped stitches are reduced Y
18 Durability of the machine has been improved Y Y
19 Low power consumption Y

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Bar tack

Specifications
• cylinder bed
• 1 needle
• Vertical bobbin
• 2 threads
• Intermittent feed
• 304 stitch

These machines sew a number of stitches across the point to be reinforced and
then sew covering stitches over and at right angles to the first stitches.

The variables are

1. the number of tacking stitches
2. the number of covering stitches

Typical uses are, closing the ends of buttonholes, reinforcing the ends of pocket
openings and the bottom of flies and sewing on belt loops.

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Latest developments in bar tack machine
• higher productivity
The machine runs at 3,000rpm, faster than any other sewing machine ever
made. In addition to the high-speed sewing performance, the machine's starting,
stopping, thread-trimming and automatic presser lifting speeds have been increased to
significantly shorten total cycle time

• excellent seam quality

The machine comes with a newly developed needle thread grasping
mechanism. The mechanism prevents thread from slipping off from the needle eyelet
at the beginning of sewing, from tangling on the wrong side of the material and also
being stained during sewing. The thread trimming mechanism has been further
improved to shorten the length of thread remaining on the wrong side of the material
after thread trimming.

• oil stains are removed

dry-head technology, the frame (needle bar and thread take-up) no longer
requires lubrication. This prevents the material from being stained with lubricating oil.
Just a small quantity of just clean oil is supplied from the oil tank to the hook.

• electronic thread control mechanism

Since the machine is provided with an active tension mechanism, it is able to
set a needle thread tension that matches various sewing conditions (such as thread,
material and sewing speed) on the operation panel, store the data in memory and
reproduce it. The needle thread tension can be separated according to stitching type or
portion of a seam, such as the beginning part of the seam, base stitched part, zigzag
stitched part and end of the seam (fastening stitch).

• sewing starting point can be corrected

The sewing starting point can be shifted in the X/Y direction. This enables the
correction of a sewing pattern in accordance with the presser foot configuration

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• wider sewing area and many different sewing patterns
With its 30mm (length) by 40mm (width) sewing area, the machine can sew
many different shapes of bartacks. The machine is provided as standard with as many
as 50 different types of sewing patterns including semilunar bartacking, round
bartacking, radial tacking as well as conventional bartacks.

• stepping motor system

It is also possible to change over the stroke of the auto-lifter from a one-step
stroke to a double-step stroke, which offers easier positioning of a material on the
machine. For the double-step stroke, an intermediate stopping height can be
established on the operation panel. The presser foot lift can be set to a maximum of
17mm by using the reverse-rotation needle-up function in combination with the auto
lifter mechanism.

• low power consumption

• powerful needle penetration force
• low noise and low vibration

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Sl no Specifications JUKI Brother
(LK-1900A) (KE-430D)
1 higher productivity Y Y
2 excellent seam quality Y Y
3 oil stains are removed Y Y
4 electronic thread control mechanism Y Y
5 sewing starting point can be corrected Y Y
6 wider sewing area and many different sewing patterns Y Y
7 stepping motor system Y Y
8 low power consumption Y
9 powerful needle penetration force Y
10 low noise and low vibration Y

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