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darbinorvar
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(https://cdn instructables com/FRJ/R3FL/IYAN3I0R/FRJR3FLIYAN3I0R MEDIUM jpg)
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This concrete LED light cube is very simply, yet pretty striking and I think it
would make the perfect accent or night light. Concrete is so much fun to use,
and of course you can vary the design depending on your preferences and add
color, change the size of the molds - whatever. It's a pretty easy project and you
don't need too many tools to work on it!
Step 1: Electronics
(https://cdn instructables com/FMY/Z2B2/IYAN3I5Z/FMYZ2B2IYAN3I5Z MEDIUM jpg)
For this project I'm going to be using these 5 volt led strip lights. These are really
cool because you can power them with a common 5 volt phone charger. Here's
a regular 12 volt led strip on the right for comparison, and there we have three
lights in series and every connection is a parallel connection, whereas on the 5
volt strip they are all parallel with only one light and resistor per section.
I'm going to be using a micro usb, and these are really tiny. This is what you
need so you can plug any phone charger in. Now, these have multiple pins
because the middle ones carry information, but I only have to concern myself
with the the ones on the ends which are positive and negative.
First of all I'm soldering the micro usb to some wire to connect to the lights, and
they are so small and difficult to see! Took a little while to get that right. But this
is what it looks like all connected.
I'm also putting on some shrink wrap to completely protect the connection and
the wire - cause this is going to sit inside the concrete!
Step 3: Lexan
OK, next up I'm cutting up some lexan into strips, and this is for the middle
section of the lamp. I made them 1 1/2 inches or 3.8 cm high, and totally the
lamp will measure 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 inch (90 x 90 x 90 mm). To frost the
glass, I sanded the pieces with fine sandpaper, but you could also spray with
frosted spray paint. Then I mixed up some epoxy and glued the sides together to
form a square.
Step 4: Molds
Step 5: Concrete
Time to mix up some concrete! But first, remember this little micro usb wire? I'm
putting some tape on the connection end to protect it.
Then I'm mixing up the concrete, and this is actually mortar mix which is
smoother than traditional concrete and doesn't have the gravel and stones in it.
So I've got two molds, one for the top and one for the bottom. First putting down
a layer of concrete. Then laying the usb wire down flat, with the tape covered
usb opening against the plywood. Then I put on some more concrete on top to
fix it in place, and cover up to the edge, but I made sure to have the wires point
up straight in the middle.
Then repeat with the top mold, which is the same but without the wire.
Once dry, I unscrewed the molds carefully, and pried the bottom plywood apart,
and I had my blocks.
Step 7: Testing
Now I actually did this multiple times, experimenting first with different
wetnesses, and I know dry concrete is supposed to be stronger, but I liked the
wetter concrete more in terms of looks, a little smoother.
On my third attempt here, I also placed the lexan square in the wet concrete to
create an indention, and that made the plastic square fit better once dried
without many gaps.
Step 8: Sanding
(https://cdn instructables com/FRQ/FSSV/IYAN3S1M/FRQFSSVIYAN3S1M MEDIUM jpg)
Once I had the blocks, I sanded them - first I used a sander, and the dryer
blocks needed more sanding. But then I moved to sanding by hand - and I also
found that the blocks made with wetter concrete didn't need nearly as much
sanding, they were pretty smooth already, apart from some sharp corners.
OK, now the next step here was to solder on the led strip to the wire coming up
from the concrete. And just testing here to make sure everything works. Now to
secure the lights in the middle of the block, I simply used hot glue and I kind of
glued the strips on top of each other into this tower thing. And then just putting it
all together.
To make sure the concrete bottom doesn't scratch a table surface I'm cutting out
some rounds out of leather for feet and then just hot gluing those on as well.
I also cut up some paper that I glued on the inside of the plastic square, and this
is because I didn't actually want to see any of the individual lights, and the paper
dimmed it even more so there was just this glow.
Once everything looked good, I epoxied the plastic square to the concrete
pieces. I also put some shellac on the concrete to seal it.
And there it is. To turn the light on, you can either plug in a 5 volt power bank to
make it portable and use anywhere, or you can plug in to any standard phone
charger or your computer.
Comments
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2017-04-09 Reply
George Rufato (/member/George+Rufato/) made it!
I made this one inspired by your instructable, but the light parts were casted
with resin :)
(https://cdn.instructables.com/FXL/Z2RH/J16YHSAV/FXLZ2RHJ16YHSAV.LARGE.jpg)
(https://cdn.instructables.com/F6E/FZ3B/J16YHSBZ/F6EFZ3BJ16YHSBZ.LARGE.jpg)
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Linn,
Another great idea using concrete! I like playing around with LEDs. I'll make a
couple of these. I thought about making a cavity just large enough, in the top,
concrete block where I could install a push button on/off switch. Install a small
piece of tubing (plastic) during the molding process for the wiring to run through.
I would glue the switch in place. (polyurethane glue!)
Gary
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fantastic!
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Cute DIY. Thanks! Do you recall what thickness you used with the molds? I like
to proportions of what you have and would like to match it. I see your
dimensions for the Lexan is 1.5" tall, so I'm guessing 3/4" on the height of the
concrete?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwVxTm7bgqs
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2017-02-01
Follow the youtube link and see the video description. You need
to click on "Show More" to see the full description.
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2017-02-05
You should be able to buy the light strips on Amazon or many
other places, just google them. Most come in reels, depends on the price.
You want to get the 5 volt types. RGB ones are more common, you just
have to ground the RGB contacts and supply 5 V to the + contact. You cut
them on the marked stripe, or cutting the solder lands in 1/2 to make them
work properly. Duct tape will do if heat shrink tubing not available.
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I might paint the concrete blocks sfter sanding them, masking off the wires and
usb port. Also if you wanted to get complex you could use RGB light strips, and
maybe mount 3 toggle switches into 1 side or even in the concrete and wire up
to have color combinations, just a thought.
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Hi great build....
I installed a arduino in it an a 24neopixel and a Bluetooth and when I get a
message it slightly turns blue , ringing slightly red.
Again thx for a great build, did not watch the video....
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Awesome work!
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2017-01-31
How do you bury the wiring and connector in granite, without
the neccessity of acquiring an expensive drill and drill bit? The fact that
the electrical connection emerges from the mortar, definitely adds an
element of coolness to this project.
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Taking it one step further, could a small solar panel be installed on the top so
the cubes could be used as outside accent lights?
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2017-01-31
Then why not just save yourself the grief of mixing up concrete,
and construct the project from wood, metal or plastic. The project would
be covered up by ugly solar panel anyways.
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Where you get all the inspiration? This is great like everything you made.
Thanks for this ibble. Also, thank you for informing me about 5V LED strips. I do
not know, that those exist. I have to find some now.
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Hi Linn,
This jumped out at me as my father is a mason. On thing you can due to make
the concrete look better is mix a very wet slurry of concrete only using silica
sand instead of regular sand. Then after your first concrete is dried you mix the
silica sand slurry and paint it on with a brush. It gives an even sandpaper type
of finish. I might have to make one for my dad as a gift!
Thanks.
Ryan
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DirkJ1 (/member/DirkJ1/) 2017-01-29 Reply
Did I miss something? I can't find a parts list for the micro usb nor the led strips.
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2017-01-30
All the products are listed in the description of the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwVxTm7bgqs
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Excellent project AND video. The video really put it together for me. I would
have never thought to do this.. thanks for the inspiration!
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2017-01-30
Great to hear!
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I just searched for the little terminal connector and came up nothing. Do you
have any links for those components?
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/302188383259
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Thanks
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tesselation (/member/tesselation/) 2017-01-29 Reply
How many LED emitters did you use on the final light? In your video, when you
tested it, it looks like you had 6-8, but when you hot glued them in, it looked like
many more?
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This is a great project! I wonder if the concrete mix were infused with glass bits
or beads if some light would pass through it too.
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Oh yes! That is gorgeous! Thanks for finding that web page SergeE.
http://retaildesignblog.net/2011/05/27/litracon-transparent-concrete/
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http://service.multiquip.com/pdfs/Concrete_vibrators_1003_handbook_25124_snapshot.pdf
this pdf has a good explanation of what vibrating does.
awesome little tutorial I think I may try something like this though I am scared of
the led lights in this and may go for a solar powered option (i would like this
outdoor
cheers
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Cool idea!
Can be turned into a minecraft night lamp for my lil cousin ^^
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For lighted concrete steps attach a piece of 1/2 inch plywood 2 inches shorter
than the width of your steps on the middle, inside of each riser that is 1 or two
inches wide. The part of this plywood against the form is the full 1 or 2 inches.
The part that is not against the form is stepped back 1/4 inch all way around.
After the steps are concreted, remove the forms and these pieces of wood that
have now formed a recess for the lexan strips and LED lights. Attach the LED
light strips to the lexan strips use chalking to adhere the lexan strips in place
with the LEDs on the inside.
Before concreting the steps, run 1/4 inch ID plastic tubing from the back of the
plywood strips out the side of the form to protect the electrical wires delivering
power to the LED strips.
I'm always amazed at how ONE idea presented in an IBLE expands to create
many useful themes. I too thought this a fine IBLE and so too the different
themes presented. The "Constructable Community" are a fine group of people,
My hat is OFF to you!
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If you want to get a smooth mold, press it in with a ram then, strap a vibrator or
2 to the mold (depends on size) and if the concrete is not too dry you can get
the remaining bubbles to rise to the surface.
Don't make sloppy wet concrete it's not strong and chips.
You'll laugh but the $5 vibrators you can find at an adult book store and actually
work well for this application. I get laughs but they work great for plastic, Paster
of Paris, or just about any liquid molding and are just another tool in my shop.
Be open to ideas and you will be supersized how many items can be tools when
re-purposed.
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