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MICROWAVE SMELTER
by mikeasaurus (/member/mikeasaurus/) Follow

160,339 311 174

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Remember how your parents used to say "don't put metal in

the microwave"? Prepare to throw that cardinal nugget of
advice straight out the window because we're going to do just
that. We're going to use a domestic, unmodified microwave to
melt metal! 

I happened upon an article in an old Popular Science

magazine (c.2003) (http://www.popsci.com/diy/article
/2003-09/smelting-microwave) about microwave smelting
and thought it was so awesome I had to try it for myself. So,
just what happens when you try to smelt metal in the
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microwave? Turns out, it works!
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Also, if you do it wrong you end up with a fiery microwave
disaster:

Want to see how it's not done? Let's go!

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Step 1: Tools + Materials

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 materials:
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stainless steel measuring cup

(crucible)
tools:
oven mitts
silicon-carbide block (details
safety goggles + face
in step 2)

shield ceramic casserole dish / fire

metal tongs / grips bricks

old microwave tin / lead / silver solder

(details in step 2)
. mold for metal ingots

(pancake mold)

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Step 2: Science + Disclaimer
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How does it work?

In it's most basic form the microwave is being used to
generate heat to an element which then melts the metal, while
not arcing the magnetron (http://en.wikipedia.org
/wiki/Cavity_magnetron)to the metal to be melted.

The microwave I used was an 850W microwave (model:

GE 3850W3W081A), I used regular bricks to build the hearth
to keep the crucible and a silicon-carbide material as the
heating element (I also used building insulation to try and
keep the heat directed inwards, a terrible terrible mistake).
The insulation was an addition I incorporated after reading
another smelting article and attempting to blend methods to
achieve more effiecient results. However I didn't anticipate
the reactions of all the elements together in my microwave.
The outcome was a success, and a failure.

Next, I had to choose metals that I were readily available to

anybody and wold have a low enough melting point to be
melted in a regular microwave. For this experiment I chose 2
types of common plumbing solder, 50/50 blend of tin/lead
and silver solder, having a melting point of 180-190 °C
(360-370
Download°F) and 450 °C (840 °F) respectively. There's other
metals that could be smelted
workshopthis way, like zinc (and
| (/workshop/)
plutonium?). Maybe you can find other metals with low
melting points, here's a good place to start
(http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/melting-temperature-
metals-d_860.html).

To help focus the energy of the microwave I used silicon-

carbide, which is a microwave susceptor: meaning it absorbs
microwave energy and turns it into heat energy. Silicon-
carbide can be found in block-knife sharpeners, but I found
they were too expensive. Instead, I used a silicone-carbide
rubbing stone for under $14 found at the hardware store.

The crucible I used was metal with a higher melting point that
the melting I was attempting to smelt. My crucible was a
regular stainless steel measuring cup (melting point
of 1510°C [2750°F])

To recap:
Microwave: 850W
Tin/lead solder: 180-190 °C (360-370 °F)
Silver solder: 450 °C (840 °F)
Microwave susceptor: silicon-carbide rubbing stone

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Step 3: Safety (seriously)

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Smelting in a microwave isn't a bad idea, but does require

some precautions to be safe.

It should go without saying that molten metal, hot bricks,

radiation and fire can cause harm you you and everything
around you., Be aware of your surroundings and always use
appropriate safety measures when dealing with hazardous
methods and materials. 

Here's my setup:
Face shield

Eye protection

Oven mitt

Metal tongs/grips

Fire extinguisher

Bucket of water

Outside environment

The water bucket shown here was our emergency backup. As

youDownload
can see from the video we ended up using it. Always
unplug your microwaveworkshop
and other electrical equipment before
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introducing any water. Electrical equipment and water do not
mix!
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Step 4: Build Hearth

The Popular Science article I read mentioned using a

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casserole dish for the hearth, but then went on to say that the
glass top of the dish cracked due to thermal stress after being
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heated then removed from the microwave. Not wanting to
have shattered glass in my face I opted to skip this step and
go right for brick as the hearth.

Knowing that I would be reaching tempertures of  500°C

(900°F), I wanted something that could handle the heat
stress and fracture if it failed and not splinter. I chose brick.
There's a specific dense brick used in fireplaces called fire-
brick that would have been ideal, however I used think regular
bricks and no fractures occurred in over 40 minutes of
heating. I also (erroneously) added an additional layer or
insulation to the inside of the brick to try and create more
heat in the hearth. Do not do this! Brick on it's own will
suffice.

Stack your bricks into a simple house-like configuration.

Leaving anough room in the middle to have your silicon-
carbide slab to sit on teh base of your brick-house with the
stainless steel crucible on top. Lay bricks over roof of brick
house.

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Step 5: Prepare Metal and Crucible

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I used a stainless steel measuring cup for my crucible, which

has a meting point of 1510°C (2750°F)
 I knew that I was only going to reach about 400/900, so
using this as my crucible was a fine choice. Glass would have
also worked, as it melts at around the same point as stainless
steel (and higher, depending on the type of glass).

Find your metals and coil or snip into your crucible.

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Step 6: Timing

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The wattage of your microwave will dictate the length of time

your smelter will need to be timed for. It's smart to start with
a short time duration to ensure your hearth and insulation are
assembled correctly, then work your way up from there. The
silicon-carbide heating slab will stay warm for a long time, so
minimal loss occurs if you open the microwave to check on
your smelter.

Here's the data from my 850W microwave:

50/50 lead/tin

5 minutes - mostly melted

10 minutes - completely molten

Silver

15 minutes - completely molten

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Step 7: Pour Ingots
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If all goes well, after a few minutes you'll notice that your
crucible has heated up and smelted the metal. Grab your
crucible with tongs and pour it into your mold. I used a cast
aluminum pancake mold found at a local houseware store.
The melting point of cast aluminum is 660.32 °C (1220.58
°F), well above the molten temperature of the lead/tin and
silver solder.

Pour molten metal into mold and allow to cool, then gently
tap reverse side of mold to release the cast ingot.

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Step 8: How Not To

You've watched the video, you saw the inferno. That was
caused by double-whammy of not paying attention and using
inappropriate materials being used. Using insulation is sound,
provided it's rated to be used in high-heat situations. In my
effort to keep things accessible and open I chose to use a
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rigid-type foam building insulation. Bad idea. The heat from
the crucible in combination with(/workshop/)
the duration I had set caused
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a corner to the foam to ignite. I shut off the microwave and
waited to the flame to die out, but it was only getting worse.
Fearing a backdraft if I opened the microwave door, I risked it
anyway. Yup, huge fireball.

microwave smelting

We were able to get our cameras running just when the

flames died down from reentry temperature to just immolation
inferno.
The lesson here is to use just bricks to create the hearth and
wait the amount of time required to to the job effectively,
without trying to accelerate the process with insulation.

Science can be messy and dangerous, so be safe and have

fun!
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172 Comments

bmêttź (/member/bm%C3%AAtt%C5%BA/) 5 months ago

(/member/bm%C3%AAtt%C5%BA/)
Doing a bit of research... it appears that a cheap angle
grinder disc made from silicon carbide will work

Reply

John T MacF Mood (/member/John+T+MacF+Mood/) 1 year

| (/member/John+T+MacF+Mood/)
ago

Your title may have been actually fulfilled if you had let the
microwave burn longer, and smelted the microwave. Well,
now we know what happens. Imprudent, but glad you took
all the safety precautions. It might have been a huge
disaster.

I think I'll gut the machine for the heavy transformer,

rewind it's secondaries, and go for a copper induction coil
and crucible sort of smelting arrangement.

Interesting teaching tool, this one. I won't be trying it

myself, but thanks for sharing.

Reply

X mykiscool (/member/mykiscool/) 1 year ago

8 (/member/mykiscool/)
| What do you think about using insulating ceramic bricks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-26-Insulating-Firebrick-
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 9x4-5x-2-5-IFB-Fire-Brick-Thermal-Ceramics-Bricks-
| workshop (/workshop/)
K26-/200945542607 and a crucible made of silicon
carbide http://www.ebay.com/itm/A3-Silicon-Carbide-
Graphite-Crucible-Furnace-Torch-Gold-Copper-Melting-
Smelting-
/111414338994?hash=item19f0cfe5b2:g:ne0AAOSwPTlTzN8b?
If I simply made a plunge hole in a brick and inserted the
crucible and put another brick and then put metal in the
crucible, is that all I would need to do?

Reply

the Oracle of Ampersand (/member

(/member/the+Oracle+of+Ampersand/)
/the+Oracle+of+Ampersand/) 1 year ago

sometimes I think the technicians get overly distracted by

irrelevant details... all the conversation about lead vs lead
free solder as well as the technical points of whether
melting metal into a liquid form by whatever means is or is
not considered smelting are off the point of whether the
instructable was useful, helpful, or exceedingly
dangerous... for my part, I watched the video, saw the
outcome, saw the fire, the guy was smart enough to set it
up outside, so, no harm done,... whats the big deal with all
the other crap? I just learned that I can melt metals in a
microwave! How effing cool is that?! This information can
be useful for making bronze (copper/tin/lead) or for
smelting other metals into ingots for preservation.
Anyway, thanks for the instructable, theres a good chance
Ill make one myself someday. The idea about making an
induction furnace, or possibly a stick welder from the
transformer is a good one too.

Reply

wgrube (/member/wgrube/) 2 years ago

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(/member/wgrube/)
 Kaowool (ceramic wool) would be an option for insulation.
| workshop (/workshop/)
It can handle temperatures up to 1200C. The insulation is
necessary to fool the temperature sensor of the oven so it
won't shut down to prevent fire. The bricks you used did
the job. Now that the oven is toast (lol) you can take it
apart and use the transformer to build an induction
furnace. Just rewind the secondary with really heavy
gauge wire.

Reply

jscanlan (/member/jscanlan/) 2 years ago

(/member/jscanlan/)
Interesting experiment. I agree with Void Schism
comments, I was wondering if it was going to get more
exciting with the water put on the electronics. There are
some low temp casting alloys out there that may be
interesting to try out.

Reply

bonpierce (/member/bonpierce/) 6 years ago

(/member/bonpierce/)
You do realize this contains LEAD right? Lead is a
carcinogen whether it is being melted or held in your hand
a a charm or around your neck as a necklace.

You don't want long exposure of any kind to this stuff.

Seriously.

Reply

terpodion (/member/terpodion/) 6 years ago in reply

(/member/terpodion/)
to bonpierce (/member/bonpierce/)
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 Lead isn't a carcinogen. It's a toxic, heavy metal - a
| workshop (/workshop/)
poison. That's different. It isn't going to hurt you unless
you ingest it, either by eating it, chronically getting lead
paint (which isn't sold anymore) on your skin or by
inhaling the fumes after it reaches it's vaporization point
which is a whole lot higher than it's relatively low melting
point. If one were to smelt lead every day, there would be
danger. One time isn't dangerous if you are the least bit
careful.

Reply

jeffm7 (/member/jeffm7/) 3 years ago in reply to

(/member/jeffm7/)
terpodion (/member/terpodion/)

It can also be absorbed through the skin in solution.

Reply

aristide202 (/member/aristide202/) 5 years ago in

| (/member/aristide202/)
reply to terpodion (/member/terpodion/)

Do you remember good old time of tetraethil lead in

gasoline ? I guess some of that stuff is stil spread all
around

Reply

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