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Chef

The Journal for Chefs


throughout the world

May/June 2017 £5.00

w w w. c h e f p u b l i s h i n g . c o m
Area Profile:
Birmingham
is not all about
Balti Houses

Claude
Bosi
in the Perfect
Position

Talk to the chef


Michel Roux
ROUX THE DAY…
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Contents
Industry Topic

The Frying Pan or the Fire ..................... 10

Talk to the chef

Michel Roux
Roux the Day…............................................. 14

Talk to the chef

Claude Bosi
In the Perfect Position…......................... 18

Area Profile: Birmingham

Birmingham is not all about


Balti Houses.................................................... 24

Area Profile

Andreas Antona – Simpsons................ 26

Area Profile

Tom Aikens at Toms Kitchen................. 30

The White Table


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2
Area Profile

Glynn Purnell.................................................. 34

Area Profile

Richard Turner .............................................. 39

Area Profile

Brad Carter ..................................................... 42

Area Profile

Adam Stokes
Adams Restaurant....................................... 46

Meet The supplier

Wilkinson Beven Design.......................... 52

Ingredient: Beef mini joints

Versatility for an
innovative menu........................................... 60

Catering anywhere but


a restaurant kitchen

The French Chef at Home


Yves Quemerais............................................ 64

Ganache

High-End Hotels Renew Interest


in High Tea After High Noon.................. 74

Front of House

Ribera Del Duero


where Spain’s most iconic
wines are produced .................................. 76

News.................................................................... 80
3
Recipes
Tom Aikens

SPICY CRAB CAKES WITH


TOMATO SALSA............................................. 33

Glynn Purnell

Birmingham soup........................................... 37

Wayne Smith, Mortimer’s Restaurant,


Ludlow

Pastrami spiced Beef &


Braised Snails................................................ 63

Michael Laiskonis

Coconut Cream
Cheese Parfait .............................................. 70

Tradition Gourmande members

Millefeuille De Druits................................. 72

Chef Publishing Ltd Sales and Marketing Photography


FS House Dormer Road, Claire Bosi Peter Marshall
Thame, Oxfordshire OX9 3FS Claire@chefpublishing.com Geoff Dann
For general enquiries Kuma Masahi
regarding Chef magazine Electronic Publishing Steve Lee
email: peter@chefpublishing.com Martyn@chefpublishing.com Francesco Tonelli

Accounts and DISTRIBUTION Designer, art editor


Administration David Vernau FS Distribution Zoran Simonovski
Lesya Grebenyuk movedesign@graphic-designer.com

publisher
Peter Marshall

www.chefpublishing.com
UNCOMPROMISING
FRESH STOCK

TRUEFOODS • HALLIKELD CLOSE • MELMERBY • NORTH YORKSHIRE • HG4 5GZ • UK


jack@truefoodsltd.com • TEL: +44 (0)1765 640 927 • www.truefoodsltd.com
QUOTE: CHEF2017
Michelin Guide 2017

  Dabbous
Ollie Dabbous
Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
James Knappett
Quilon
Sriram Aylur
www.dabbous.co.uk www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk www.quilon.co.uk
London London
Dining Room at the Goring Kitchen W8 Ritz Restaurant
Alain Ducasse at The Alyn Williams at The John Williams
Shay Cooper Mark Kempson
Dorchester Westbury
www.thegoring.com www.kitchenw8.com www.theritzlondon.com
Jocelyn Herland Alyn Williams
www.alainducasse-dorchester.com www.alynwilliams.com Ellory L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon River Café
www.ellorylondon.com Oliver Limousin Rose Gray
Gordon Ramsay Amaya www.joelrobuchon.co.uk www.rivercafe.co.uk
Matt Abé
Karunesh Khanna Fera at Claridge’s
www.gordonramsayrestaurants.
www.amaya.biz Simon Rogan La Trompette Seven Park Place
com/restaurant-gordon-ramsay
www.feraatclaridges.co.uk Anthony Boyd William Drabble
Ametsa www.stjameshotelandclub.com/

www.latrompette.co.uk
Elena Arzak Five Fields restaurant-piccadilly
www.comohotels.com/thehalkin/ www.fivefieldsrestaurant.com Lima Fitzrovia
London dining/ametsa Robert Ortiz Social Eating House
Galvin at Windows www.limalondongroup.com/fitzrovia Jason Atherton
Araki Angler Jeff Galvin www.socialeatinghouse.com
Mitsuhiro Araki Tony Fleming www.galvinatwindows.com Locanda Locatelli
www.the-araki.com www.anglerrestaurant.com St John
Giorgio Locatelli
Chris Gillard
Galvin La Chapelle www.locandalocatelli.com
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Barrafina www.stjohngroup.uk.com
Jeff Galvin
Ashley Palmer-Watts Nieves Barragán Mohacho www.galvinrestaurants.com/ Lyle's
www.dinnerbyheston.com www.barrafina.co.uk Story
section/61/1/galvin-la-chapelle James Lowe
Tom Sellers
www.lyleslondon.com
Greenhouse Benares www.restaurantstory.co.uk
Gymkhana
Arnaud Bignon
Atul Kochhar www.gymkhanalondon.com Murano
www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk Tamarind
www.benaresrestaurant.com Angela Hartnett
Alfred Prasad
Hélène Darroze at The Hakkasan Hanway Place www.muranolondon.com
Bonhams
www.tamarindrestaurant.com
Connaught Tong Chee Hwee
Hélène Darroze Tom Kemble www.hakkasan.com/locations/ Outlaw's at the Capital
Texture
www.the-connaught.co.uk/mayfair- www.bonhams.com/locations/BS hakkasan-hanway-place Nathan Outlaw
Agnar Sverrisson
restaurants/helene-darroze www.capitalhotel.co.uk/dining www.texture-restaurant.co.uk
Céleste Hakkasan Mayfair
Le Gavroche Florian Favario Tong Chee Hwee Pétrus The Glasshouse
Michel Roux Jr www.lanesborough.com/eng/ www.hakkasan.com/locations/ Larry Jayasekara  www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk
www.le-gavroche.co.uk restaurant-bars/celeste hakkasan-mayfair www.gordonramsayrestaurants.
com/petrus The Ninth
Ledbury Chez Bruce Harwood Arms www.theninthlondon.com
Brett Graham Bruce Poole Barry Fitzgerald Pidgin
www.theledbury.com www.chezbruce.co.uk www.harwoodarms.com www.pidginlondon.com Trinity
Marcus www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk
City Social Hedone Pied à Terre
Umu
Jason Atherton Mikael Jonsson Marcus Eaves Trishna
www.marcus-wareing.com
www.citysociallondon.com www.hedonerestaurant.com www.pied-a-terre.co.uk Karam Sethi
Sketch (The Lecture Room & www.trishnalondon.com
Library) Clove Club HKK Pollen Street Social
Pierre Gagnaire Isaac McHale Tong Chee Hwee Jason Atherton Veeraswamy
www.sketch.london/#gsc.tab=0 www.thecloveclub.com www.hkklondon.com www.pollenstreetsocial.com www.veeraswamy.com

Umu Club Gascon Kai Portland Yauatcha Soho


Yoshinori Ishii Pascal Aussignac Alex Chow Merlin Labron-Johnson Cheong Wah Soon
www.umurestaurant.com www.clubgascon.com/about.php www.kaimayfair.co.uk www.portlandrestaurant.co.uk www.yauatcha.com

The CHEF BOOK Inspiration for a Michelin Star Chef


“This book is a treasure-trove of great food. A veritable
anthology of some of the world’s best chefs and their
recipes including Paul Bocuse, the Roux family , Anton
Mosimann and Thomas Keller and many of the new
stars of today such as Sat Bains, Jason Atherton and
Daniel Humm. In total there are 114 chefs featured in this
amazing collection. The photography is a work of art and
the recipes are as diverse as the chefs featured.”
Nico Ladenis
Available from www.chefpublishing.com
THE POCHON BREAD
Unique in shape, unique in flavour.

“ It is just simply the best! „


Michel Roux Jr.

Made with two types of yeast: a Buckwheat sourdough for character and a wheat sourdough
for roundness and sweetness. Its dough is slow-kneaded for intense flavours and an
exceptional honeycomb structure. It is then hand shaped for a unique look.
Stone oven part baked for a perfect crust and excellent conservation.

w w w. b r i d o r . c o . u k
exportsales@groupeleduff.com
Michelin Guide 2017
Birmingham Grasmere Blackburn Chinnor
 Adam's
Adam Stokes
Forest Side
Kevin Tickle
Northcote
Nigel Haworth
Sir Charles Napier
Gerd Greaves
United Kingdom www.adamsrestaurant.co.uk www.theforestside.com www.northcote.com www.sircharlesnapier.co.uk

Bray Highland Birkenhead City of Edinburgh Helmsley


Albannach Fraiche Number One Star Inn
Fat Duck Jeff Bland
Heston Blumenthal Colin Craig Marc Wilkinson Andrew Pern
www.thealbannach.co.uk www.restaurantfraiche.com www.roccofortehotels.com www.thestaratharome.co.uk
www.thefatduck.co.uk Murcott
Cambridge Windermere Nut Tree Fife
Bray Mike North
Waterside Inn Alimentum Gilpin Hotel & Lake House The Cellar
Patron Mark Poynton www.thegilpin.co.uk www.nuttreeinn.co.uk
"Alain Roux & Fabrice Uhryn"
www.waterside-inn.co.uk restaurantalimentum.co.uk Torquay
East Grinstead Channel Islands - La Pulente The Elephant
Gravetye Manor Ocean


Bath Mark Jordan
Simon Hulstone
Bath Priory George Blogg www.elephantrestaurant.co.uk
www.gravetyemanor.co.uk www.theatlantichotel.com/dining/
www.thebathpriory.co.uk ocean-restaurant
United Kingdom Winchester Oakham
Leeds
The Man Behind the Curtain
Hambleton Hall Channel Islands - St. Helier
Perth Black Rat Ormer by Shaun Rankin Michael O'Hare
John Marsden-Jones Aaron Patterson www.themanbehindthecurtain.co.uk
Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Shaun Rankin
www.theblackrat.co.uk www.hambletonhall.com
Andrew Fairlie www.ormerjersey.com
www.andrewfairlie.co.uk Hunstanton
Oldstead Marlborough Port Isaac The Neptune
Black Swan Harrow at Little Bedwyn Kevin Mangeolles
Oxfordshire Roger Jones
Outlaw's Fish Kitchen
Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’ Tommy Banks Nathan Outlaw heneptune.co.uk
hwww.blackswanoldstead.co.uk www.theharrowatlittlebedwyn.com www.outlaws.co.uk/fishkitchen
Saisons
Gary Jones Fife
Highland Bray Ireland The Peat Inn
www.belmond.com/le-manoir-aux- Hinds Head
quat-saisons-oxfordshire Boath House Patrick Guilbaud Geoffrey Smeddle
Charlie Lockley Kevin Love Patrick Guilbaud www.thepeatinn.co.uk
www.boath-house.com www.hindsheadbray.com www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie
Devon
Gidleigh Park Ambleside
Channel Islands - St. Helier Newcastle Upon Tyne Padstow The Samling
Michael Wignall House of Tides
gidleigh.co.uk Bohemia Paul Ainsworth at No.6 Nick Edgar
Steve Smith Kenny Atkinson Paul Ainsworth www.thesamlinghotel.co.uk
www.bohemiajersey.com www.houseoftides.co.uk www.paul-ainsworth.co.uk
Marlow
Hand and Flowers Whitstable
Ilkley Argyll & Bute Hampton in Arden The Sportsman
Tom Kerridge Isle of Eriska
Box Tree Peel's at Hampton Manor Stephen Harris
www.thehandandflowers.co.uk Paul Leonard Hotel
Simon Gueller www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk
www.theboxtree.co.uk www.eriska-hotel.co.uk Rob Palmer
Cumbria hamptonmanor.com
L’Enclume Loughborough Kingham
Simon Rogan North Ayrshire John's House Beverley The Wild Rabbit
www.lenclume.co.uk Braidwoods Tim Allen
John Duffin Pipe and Glass Inn
Keith Braidwood James Mackenzie www.thewildrabbit.co.uk
www.johnshouse.co.uk
Cheltenham www.braidwoods.co.uk www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Le Champignon Sauvage Petersfield Ilfracombe
David Everitt-Matthias Eldersfield JSW Chew Magna Thomas Carr @ The Olive
www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk Butchers Arms Jake Saul Watkins Pony & Trap Room
James Winter jswrestaurant.com Josh Eggleton Thomas Carr
Cambridge www.thebutchersarms.net www.theponyandtrap.co.uk www.thomascarrchef.co.uk
Midsummer House Highland
Daniel Cliford Castle Combe Kinloch Lodge Birmingham Sparkwell
www.midsummerhouse.co.uk Bybrook at Manor House Marcello Tully Purnell’s Treby Arms
Hotel www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk Glynn Purnell Anton Piotrowski
Darlington Rob Potter www.purnellsrestaurant.com www.thetrebyarms.co.uk
Raby Hunt www.exclusive.co.uk/the-manor- City of Edinburgh
James Close house/restaurants-bars/the- Kitchin East Chisenbury Egham
www.rabyhuntrestaurant.co.uk bybrook Tom Kitchin Red Lion Freehouse Tudor Room at Great Fosters
www.thekitchin.com Guy Manning Hotel
Port Issac Birmingham www.redlionfreehouse.com Marc Hardiman
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw Carters of Moseley Reading www.greatfosters.co.uk/dining/
Nathan Outlaw Brad Carter L’Ortolan Bath tudor-room/menus
www.nathan-outlaw.com cartersofmoseley.co.uk Tom Clarke Restaurant Hywel Jones by
www.lortolan.com Lucknam Park Birmingham
Nottingham Bristol Howell Jones Turners @ 69
Restaurant Sat Bains Casamia www.lucknampark.co.uk/dining/ Richard Turner
Bourton-on-the-Water chefs-at-lucknam
Sat Bains Jon Ray & Peter Sanchez Lords of the Manor www.turnersat69.co.uk
www.restaurantsatbains.com www.casamiarestaurant.co.uk Richard Picard-Edwards Horsham Biddenden
www.lordsofthemanor.com Restaurant Tristan
Wiltshire Kenilworth West House
Cross at Kenilworth Tristan Mason Graham Garrett
The Dining Room at Whatley City of Edinburgh www.restauranttristan.co.uk
Manor Adam Bennett Martin Wishart www.thewesthouserestaurant.
Martin Burge www.thecrosskenilworth.co.uk www.martin-wishart.co.uk co.uk
Bray
www.whatleymanor.com/restaurants- Royal Oak
and-bars/the-dining-room Burchett's Green West Dunbartonshire Don Chapman Bristol
Crown Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com Wilk's

 www.thecrownburchettsgreen.com
Martin Wishart
www.mwlochlomond.co.uk Chester
Simon Radley at Chester
James Wilkins
www.wilksrestaurant.co.uk

United Kingdom Portscatho Knowstone Grosvenor Newbury


Driftwood Masons Arms Simon Radley Woodspeen
City of Edinburgh Chris Eden Mark Dodson www.chestergrosvenor.com/simon- John Campbell
21212 www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk radley-restaurant www.thewoodspeen.com

Winchcombe Baslow Blakeney Birmingham Pateley Bridge


5 North St Fischer’s at Baslow Hall Morston Hall Simpsons Yorke Arms
Gus Rupert Rowley Galton Blackiston Andreas Antona Frances Atkins
www.5northstreetrestaurant.co.uk www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk www.morstonhall.com www.simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk www.yorke-arms.co.uk
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I ndustry T opic : by Ben Tish

The Frying
The world of
restaurant
investment has come a
long way from the old
days of dark banking halls,
pin striped suits, a handful
of millionaire restaurateurs
and a general feeling
that funding was almost
unobtainable except
for those with the right
contacts and credentials.
It was once something the
“other” people did and the
likes of us just watched on.
How could a chef with a
city and guilds and 10 years
behind the stove make
the transition into being a
backed restaurateur? Nigh
on impossible except for
a few heavy weights with
the right contacts.

10
Pan or the

11
H
ow times have changed-nowadays the
investment world is up there with the
restaurants themselves in terms of PR
activity and profile and the options to fund a
restaurant business are many and less restrictive-
pure proof of the restaurant investment explosion
is the current restaurant explosion, they are of
course intrinsically linked.

Its cool to be seen to back a restaurant and


have several backed restaurants in a portfolio.
Everyone’s interested in food and wine these
days and the kudos of backing an exciting new
operation is probably more exciting than the
idea of making lots of money (although I’m sure
there’s a smattering of that too)

So who backs a restaurant or chef? There


are of course high net worth individuals and
investments companies that like to have some
restaurants as part of their portfolio or existing
restaurateurs who might want to back someone
they respect in the industry and know they’re
going to hit the ground running or someone
who’s worked for them and clearly have the drive
to succeed.

There are foodies who have a few thousand


to invest and rather than put the money into a
pension fund or something they have no interest
in will invest in a restaurant- having known the
chefs food from a previous restaurant or perhaps
at a tried and tested pop up or as a street food
stall (hot beds for new talent and a great way to
get noticed on a budget)

Crowd funding is the relatively new phenomenon


(in the restaurant world- crowd funding itself has
been a way of raising money in various fields for
many years) where a potential restaurateur can
pitch their business plan on line and hopefully
attract subscribers to invest money until they
reach the required investment sum. There have
been many success stories of late using this route
– such as Somsaa- the brilliant Thai restaurant
based in Shoreditch that over achieved their total
investment in 2 days, something like £600,000.
Crowdcube.com is the leading platform for this
and most popular with want-to-be restaurateurs.

If you are thinking about investment to fund a


restaurant then there is considerations on all
levels - how much money do you have yourself
and how much do you need? This will ultimately
affect your ownership percentage; of course
the more you put in the more ownership of the
business, but it’s not that straightforward. You’ll
be doing all the work and presumably have all the
skill so the loan to equity ratio will be negotiable.

12 i n d u stry t o pic b y B e n T i s h
Heres a few
things to
consider
Crowd funding-

It’s a relatively quick way to appeal for money and there’s


a time limit on the campaign so you’ll have it sorted or not
pretty quickly. The people who invest in you will be flying
the flag for your business and there could be quite a few of
them.
You’ll have much more freedom to make decisions in the
business.
The investors are all hands off so you may not have direct
contact with them as you would an individual investor or
fund and so you’ll be missing out on experience and advice.
If you don’t achieve your funding level its very public- this
can have a negative effect on how your are perceived and
also future funding opportunities.

Investors

Investors want the business to work so will push to make


sure this happens. Its good to get people that you can work
with at board level and that understand the business; the
restaurant industry is quite unique and there are many
factors involved that are out of the operator’s control so
an understanding is important. Whilst the bottom line is
important, the investors aren’t operating daily and can be
out of touch with what’s happening at the coalface so its
important to establish this from day one.
Look for investors that can bring business experience to the
table or who have property or accountancy contacts you can
tap into. Investors with a rich network of contacts are very
useful for a business and of course if the business does well
and you want to expand then it’s likely the investor will be
happy to get involved.

If you are thinking of looking for funding in anyway just


make sure your business plan is realistic and that the
number stack up. Your going be busy running the restaurant,
managing the staff and producing great food so you need
someone with a good eye on the numbers, whether that’s
a partner or if you are looking for an investor then someone
with a financial back ground that can help with strategy.

Its never been easier to get access to funding your


dream but how its done will be with you all the way -
make sure you make the right choice early on and do the
research. Good luck.

13
Talk to the chef: Michel Roux by Bernice Saltzer

ROUX
THE
DAY… It’s a staggering
50 years since
Le Gavroche opened its
doors. We catch up with the
current Chef Patron to talk
food and family….

14
N
epotism is certainly not on the menu in a fancy glass, the Roux brothers brought Highly conscious of the expectation of
at Le Gavroche. classic French cooking to a new audience. visitors to Le Gavroche, he nevertheless
If that was in any doubt, Michel Roux Arguably these brothers were the first true believed some changes were necessary.
Jnr makes that very clear. Should father celebrity chefs, with the restaurant fast “I felt that the whole ambiance and service
Albert decide he wants to pop in and enjoy becoming a favourite of the glitterati and was very formal,” he said.
the fruits of his labours, then he will have to even of HM The Queen. “When I took over I tried to address that,
book like everyone else. Michel Jr grew up watching this business I wanted to lighten up the formality and
“He’ll call up and say ‘I’m coming in for flourish and there seemed never a doubt that make it much more convivial. At the time
lunch,” says Michel with a laugh. he too would follow in the family footsteps. we were still insisting that men wore a
“But he’ll get the same treatment as any Yet he admits that the natural progression jacket and tie and I was determined the tie
other customer and if we don’t have a to eventually take up the reins at Le rule was going to go.”
table, he doesn’t get a table.” Gavroche was something that he resisted. The compromises were made but given
Unflinchingly high standards are Having carved out his own impressive there was still a feeling of “ if it’s not
undoubtedly what has kept this restaurant career, the suggestion that he should broken, don’t fix it” Le Gavroche still
at the top of its game for five long decades. take over the family business was not continued to offer what it new best- the
Eating habits may have changed, food fads on his radar. finest French food cooked to the highest
have come and gone, restaurants have “I said absolutely not at the start,” he standard.
been in and out of fashion but Le Gavroche revealed. At the same time the Roux family have
has remained a constant. “It was just something I never wanted to do, always felt a strong sense of responsibility
Michel, the second generation of the royal when I was in my 20s I was travelling the to the next generation of chefs and through
family of cooking, believes that the reason world and at that time I think I saw taking the Roux Scholarship have helped some of
why the restaurant has not only survived over Le Gavroche as a huge burden but of the greatest names in the industry on the
but thrives, is down to one factor. course as you get older your views change.” road to success.
“It has remained true to its roots,” he said. Despite having had various stints at the Many of the luminaries of the cookery world
“We started as a French restaurant serving restaurant over the years, it wasn’t until have passed through the doors of their
the classics and while some aspects of 1993 when his father announced his establishments on their way up the culinary
what we do have evolved, at the heart we retirement that Michel decided to take over ladder – chefs such as Gordon Ramsay,
have stayed the same.” the restaurant. Marco Pierre White and Marcus Wareing.
In any other restaurant – with perhaps a
handful of notable exceptions - it would
be virtually unthinkable for dishes to have
remained on the menu for that length of
time.
Yes as Michel flicks through the treasured
archive covering the past five decades,
it’s obvious that many favourites have
remained.
“Our cheese soufflé, that’s been on the
menu since the early 60s, the lobster
with garlic butter, the crab salad, they still
appear,” he said.
The same goes for the main courses where
you can still order veal kidney with three
mustard sauce, although you’re unlikely to
be paying £2.20s for it these days.
Nobody can underestimate the important
role the Roux family have had in shaping
the way we eat in the UK and their
impeccable credentials.
It’s well documented how the empire
began, with brothers Albert and Michel
Snr coming to England in the 1960s and
opening Le Gavroche. The restaurant
became the first in the UK to win a Michelin
star, then two and then three.
At a time when the average Briton’s idea of
culinary sophistication was Angel Delight served

15
“We never take what we do for granted and both my dad and my
TAKE THREE
uncle are still out and about working with the next generation of Three generations of the Roux
chefs. They are constantly visiting colleges, running tasting sessions
with children – it’s not always just about the business.” ALBERT ROUX
While Michel has taken on the mantle from his father and uncle, the FAVOURITE MOMENT
next generation is already snapping at the Roux family heels – and My favourite time isn’t a particular
the chef couldn’t be happier about it. memory but rather a recurring moment.
His daughter Emily, 26, is now an accomplished chef in her own right It’s the time just after service when
having trained in France. everybody has been served as they
“She is very driven, I am very proud of her, “said Michel. should be, which is not always the case unfortunately,
“When I mention taking over Le Gavroche she has the same reaction and I have a glass of champagne..
as I did initially, saying no. She’s very headstrong.” WORST MOMENT
Not that Michel is thinking of giving up any time soon – even with the That would have to be when I was in the kitchen and
pressure of working at the restaurant and his many television commitments. all of a sudden the gas and electricity were cut off. We
“At the end of the day we are cooks, not celebrities,” he said. were right in the middle of service and there was a full
“It’s great to do all of these other projects but being in the kitchen is restaurant of people outside waiting for their dinner.
what we’re really about.” FAVOURITE INGREDIENT
Although the restaurant now has two rather than three Michelin Cream and butter. I’m French, what can I say?
stars, Michel is fairly philosophical. FAVOURITE KITCHEN ITEM
“Of course being recognised by the guides is important and has an My knife – a good knife is a chef’s best friend.
impact on your business,” he said. BEST RESTAURANT TO EAT ANYWHERE
“But to be honest it’s more important to be cooking for your IN THE WORLD
customers and getting their recognition. Well I’m a chef, so does home count? My favourite place to
“That’s what’s at the basis of our business and always has been – eat is at home with a bit of steak, béarnaise and fat chips.
the customer.”

16
family, three similar questions – three VERY different answers!
MICHEL ROUX JNR EMILY ROUX
FAVOURITE MOMENT FAVOURITE MOMENT
The fact that the people who have dined   When I was working in Paris at Akrame, I served a
with us for decades come back with the next meal to a customer that made him cry with delight!
generations of their families People can have a strong emotional response to food.
WORST MOMENT WORST MOMENT
Same as my dad - when we had a complete power This has to be cooking my first ever meal for my parents. I was
cut in the middle of service and had to cook on about 12 years old. The potatoes were still raw inside and the
gas canisters. salmon was rather underdone. 
FAVOURITE INGREDIENT FAVOURITE INGREDIENT
Brittany salted butter Freshly ground black or white pepper. Couldn’t live without it. I
FAVOURITE KITCHEN ITEM season everything with pepper.
Set of sharp knives FAVOURITE KITCHEN ITEM
BEST RESTAURANT TO EAT ANYWHERE  -I always have a spoon in my pocket. You never know when you
IN THE WORLD will need to taste something!
My current favourite is Raku, a Japanese restaurant BEST RESTAURANT TO EAT ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD
in Las Vegas. El Celler de Can Roca in Girona. I had the most memorable meal
there a few years ago with my family. The food was delicious
and the restaurant has an atmosphere that i will never forget.
The appetisers come hooked onto miniature olive tree, and we loved
an exceptional lychee and vinegar dessert that actually moves. 

17
T a lk t o t h e c h ef : C l a u d e B o s i by Ben Tish

Claude
Bosi
In the Perfect
Position
It’s fair to say there was some
excitement from my side when
asked by Chef Magazine interview to
Claude Bosi in his new abode in South
Kensington, the iconic Bibendum building.
Of course this news of Bosi’s takeover
has been doing the rounds for some
months, this is a high profile opening if
ever there was one from the much lauded
two Michelin star chef who most recently
owned and cooked at Hibiscus in Mayfair
and it was top of my list to visit anyway
article or not! One of the UKs best chefs
in one of the most beautiful and elegant
spaces in the capital?
Now that’s interesting.
18
19
W
e had an incredible lunch at How’s life treating you so far in Bibendum? menu for those that want the experience. “
Bibendum. There are plenty of (Bosi also has a dessert and ice cream
Bosi’s Hibiscus classics to be found So far so good. Nice and busy but the area trolley that adds to the restaurants theatre
but what he’s achieved is a more informal (south Kensington) is quite different from and experience)
and relaxed environment in which to enjoy Mayfair. We’ve been well received by the Bosi said the classical service of the
them. Firstly the rooms a light and airy press and customers a like. There have been trolleys and carving table-side was going
space with large windows, high ceilings and lots of journalists in from day 1 (literally). really well. The front of house team are
a skylight- quite different from Hibiscus.a Claude also mentioned he couldn’t wait to enjoying the interactivity and learning new
real point of difference is that the kitchen get back in the kitchen after the pre-opening techniques and skills above and beyond
is visible (but not audible) through sliding phase where he was dealing with everything serving food and pouring wine.
glass doors- something that’s great for on the build, set up, finances “the kitchen is
the customers and the kitchen team. The where I know what I’m doing” How does the demographic change from
service is polished, professional and slick Mayfair to south Kensington?
but managing to strike a balance with a How’s the food different from hibiscus?
relaxed, chatty and fun atmosphere. Bosi “Its much more residential - we have people
decided to retain one of the key front of “A lot of the dishes are from Hibiscus with living straight over the road from Bibendum.
house faces from the old Bibendum which is a few new ones - but there’s the Sunday We’ve already ruffled a few feathers with
a smart move as this will ease the regular’s carvery trolley (that’s used for roast meats, a couple of the locals but you have to stick
and locals into the new way of things. The carved at the table) and we have the oyster to your guns and stick to your style. The
wine service was also impressive and didn’t bar downstairs that’s open all week - more downstairs oyster bar has a more relaxed,
daunt as it can do, plenty by the glass and at informal and accessible. It’s mostly a la accessible offering so in theory there’s
palatable prices and all explained well. carte but there’s an option for a tasting something for everyone”.
Back to the food. There’s a tasting menu for
those that want it, a lunch menu and a la
carte (which seems to be the most popular.
People that know Bosi’s food will be
familiar with its high level of craft skills and
technique and its continued here but there’s
also some more accessible dishes (still
done incredibly well); a daily meat trolley
and on the day I visited they were serving a
succulent rotisserie pork on the bone served
with a classic charcuteire sauce, seasonal
vegetables and a gratin dauphinoise,
carved at the table, this really was a class
act. We enjoyed a starter of white crab
with elderflower jelly and sea herbs and
frogs legs with morels and vin jaune both
so balanced an accomplished but full of
big flavours (something that often falls
short at this level in my opinion). Another
standout dish and the most simple
on appearance was green and white
asparagus with hay smoked hollandaise
and confit orange zest.
Desserts were stunning too and the
chocolate soufflé with thai basil ice cream
blew us away, the flavours could have
clashed but instead were harmonious and
so much more than a sum of their parts.
The soufflé was served classically with the
quenelle of ice cream spooned into the
soufflé at the table.
I managed to catch up with Bosi after for a
quick chat. Clearly proud of his beautiful new
restaurant Bosi’s at Bibendum as somewhere
he’s staying and firmly making roots, as he
said to me “I’m not going anywhere”. And why
would he? He’s got it all here.

20 T a lk t o t h e c h ef : C l a u d e B o s i by Ben Tish
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Did you completely refurbish the kitchen? Any
standout bits of kit/ranges/induction etc.?

“Yes a complete refurbishment. We couldn’t


have induction as theres not enough power
into the building so went for an Athanol
range - the same brand as we originally had
at Hibiscus and we have a rotisserie which
is not only a talking point but something we
are using a lot. The kitchens bigger and now
has a glass window to see out of, we have a
much bigger pastry section too. It’s a beautiful
kitchen and we are very lucky.”

Are you deliberately aiming for stars because


of the building/history? It would be a nice story
wouldn’t it?

We most definitely want to get back the


2 stars, it might not be straight away but
we of course want them back. The food
will be of the same standard as Hibiscus so
hopefully this will come.

Are you aiming for three stars if possible?

“Yes- most people who have two want


three stars, keep pushing forward, its
natural. (I agree - this beautiful, iconic
landmark building with Claude’s assured
and technically brilliant food - on paper
this has all the credentials) Bosi adds
that those who say the move from two - it’s a big open space and they can see out the launch, she’s also been growing chive
to three stars aren’t important are not into the dining room” flowers for a specific dish on the menu!
being honest. I agree – its an enviable kitchen in terms
of size, layout and kit - the openness How does the oyster bar operate- a
So your new business partner is Terence and ability to see the dining room is a separate team or does the main team
Conran- how is it working with him? luxury in London. Bosi says that it keep rotate on there.
the chefs on their toes too - “they have
Its great - the man is a legend. We speak to keep clean as they are on show. You “The downstairs oyster bar and bistro is
fairly regularly and he’s been eating in the know, chefs can be scruffy buggers..” open seven days a week (closed Sunday
restaurant a lot and giving me feed back. eve) and we have a separate team to
He’s got a wealth of experience in the The restaurant’s closed Sunday night, operate this”.
restaurant sector so brings a lot to the table Monday and Tuesday- impressive- is this to A typical lunch menu down stairs in
with advice and top-level pearls of wisdom. make for a better working environment for the oyster bar might offer oysters
Conran and Lord Hamlyn own the freehold the team or for consistency? sold individually, fillet steak with café
of Bibendum and the Bosi’s business de Paris butter and frites, roast beef
partners are Conran and Michael Hamlyn, “Yes, absolutely - it’s exactly for this to sandwich and broccoli soup
the son of Lord Hamlyn. give the team the time off. On Sunday
they don’t get finished up until 6 or 7. It After I had chatted with Claude and enjoyed
Do you have a lot of the old team from Hibiscus keeps the team fresh”. my most memorable meal of the year
with you? How have they adapted to the changes? Since they’ve opened Bosi and his senior so far it struck me that here was a chef
team has been in everyday, even when in a very happy place. Yes, I’m sure he is
“We’ve got 18 in the kitchen and 15 are closed working and refining the dishes for stressed and anxious that this project will
from Hibiscus-the other three are new the following weeks services. He’s hoping succeed and this is completely normal but I
pastry chefs - as we’ve expanded our this week hell get a break and spend really felt he’s found his home for the next
pastry section so needed more chefs. They some time with his wife Lucy who’s been 2 or even three decades and that is rare
love the new environment and the kitchen working hard with PR and marketing with thing in this industry.

23
Are a P r o file : B i r m i n g h a m by Claire Bosi

Birmingham is not
all about Balti Houses
V
isiting our second city nowadays, it How to get it so wrong. Birmingham, Smart chefs and restaurateurs have cottoned
is hard to believe that in Medieval culturally diverse and a major international on to the constantly improving stability of the
times, Birmingham was nothing commercial centre has a metropolitan city, and more restaurants are set to open. The
more than a medium sized market economy that is the second largest in the UK. city now boasts more Michelin stars than any
town. Birmingham grew to With six universities and several important other city outside of London. Sure, it has 100
enormous prominence in the 18th century and cultural institutions, the future of the city has Balti houses within the world famous “Balti
the industrial revolution saw the town at the never been so vibrant. triangle”, and these serve, on average, 20,000
forefront of worldwide advances in science, diners each week but diversity is at the very
technology and economic development. Financially, the city is blossoming. core of Birmingham, and some of the greatest
Major players have already proven their names known to our industry have either
So skip forward a few hundred years and what commitment to the city, and others are expressed a desire to have a foothold in the
do we have? People joke about Birmingham, joining them. HSBC are moving their head city, or even acted upon it.
we poke fun at the local dialects, and have offices to Birmingham creating 1000 jobs,
been guilty of considering it to be nothing more and Deutsche bank have increased their So should a chef consider Birmingham as a
than a hotbed of Balti houses, football teams workforce to 2500. With 112,000 companies viable location in which to open a restaurant?
and a very famous chocolate factory. The city in the city, it boasts the highest concentration Absolutely. With rental, freehold and business
was at the centre of a National outrage back outside of London and is ranked the 1st in rates significantly lower than London, the area
in 2015 when commentator Stephen Emerson the UK for real estate investment prospects. is more affordable, yet the exposure is similar.
from America’s right wing Fox News described An investment of £17 billion will see the city
the city as a “no go area for non-Muslims” commutable from central London in just 49 The Birmingham Chambers of Commerce
and confidently stated that “everyone in minutes – the equivalent of a tube journey is both proactive and supportive of the
Birmingham is a Muslim”. across London. burgeoning food scene. Paul Faulkner, chief

24
executive said on interview, “The food and make the appeal of Birmingham irresistible as it one of the leading lights in the city. Trained
restaurant scene in Birmingham has been becomes a truly global destination.” by Ferran Adria of El Bulli, Omar arrived in
transformed in recent years. There are now the UK in 2008 to take over the reins at El
five Michelin starred restaurants in central Finishing off, Mr Faulkner has a solid message Pirata Detapas in West London. He quickly
Birmingham alone, which represents a for prospective chefs and restaurateurs to the established it as one of London’s best Tapas
culinary revolution over the past decade. The area, “Birmingham Chamber has played a key restaurants before relocating to Birmingham.
city has become a destination for foodies role in welcoming top restaurants and hotels
from all over the world and the restaurants to this city and this trend will certainly continue With available properties (many of them
and their chefs are now a special part of over the coming years.” gorgeous Victorian buildings) a culture of
Birmingham’s social scene”. eating out, a fantastic support network of
Asked what he thought contributed to this Who are the trailblazers across Birmingham at chefs and the inevitable exposure as HS2
revolution, Mr Faulkner said “The arrival of the moment? Well, in the Michelin star category arrives, Birmingham can now proudly hold
so many top drawer restaurants is partly we have Andreas Antona, Glynn Purnell, Adam its head up against London as the clever,
due to the surge of corporate businesses Stokes, Richard Turner and Brad Carter. But look more affordable choice for an aspiring
being attracted to Birmingham, including at recent openings. Tom Aikens, youngest ever chef or restaurateur to open his or her
the relocation of HSBC UK and the arrival of British Chef to win two Michelin stars, opened dream business.
Deutsche bank. another branch of his much loved Tom’s Kitchen
Alongside this the infrastructure of the city early this year, and there are rumours of another So, all that’s left to say is this. If you’re “clarting
centre is improving dramatically and is international chef opening up in the Mailbox. about” and unsure of where you are heading
on-going, turning the city into the economic you should “put your fizzog straight”, and get
powerhouse of the West Midlands. The arrival For lovers of Spanish food, Tapas Revolution, to Birmingham, Bab. Where you will be sure to
of HS2 into the heart of the city will help to headed up by Madrid born Omar Allibhoy, is discover some “bostin fittle”.

25
Are a P r o file : B i r m i n g h a m by Claire Bosi

Andreas
Antona –
Simpsons
26
Described as “The godfather of modern Birmingham food” by The Times,
Andreas Antona’s early years were spent working in German and Swiss
kitchens, providing him with excellent training and sound organisational skills.
From there, positions in the capital city followed, with Michael Quinn MBE
and Anton Mosimann OBE.

U
pon leaving London, Andreas took root in five years has flown by, and I am grateful every ingredients, cultures and presentation. There
the Midlands, where he began winning single day that this city has supported me and is always, of course, the danger that classic
international acclaim at the renowned my restaurants. It’s a very supportive place. techniques are no longer being learnt. These are
Plough and Harrow. Birmingham is a city with a fantastic commercial important. These techniques forged the path for
In 1993, Andreas opened his first restaurant brain. It boasts a professional service network some of the greatest chefs of all time.
Simpson’s, in Kenilworth and subsequently of Lawyers, Bankers and such like. It’s a
won a Michelin star. The restaurant relocated hardworking, serious city. You have a great team in Luke and Nathan – how
to Edgbaston, Birmingham in 2004 and is now much time do you spend at Simpsons these days?
housed in a grade 2 listed Georgian villa. Chefs go through phases and fashions as much
Since then, Antona has opened a second as clothes designers, one day its micro herbs, I am at Simpsons, or the Cross, every day. I
restaurant in Kenilworth, The Cross, which was then vegetable ice creams, then sous vide do not see retirement any time soon. Give
awarded a star shortly after opening in 2014. everything etc – are there any Chef trends that up work? To do what? Play golf all the
Andreas is supported at Simpsons by Luke Tipping, you particularly dislike? time? Nope, when I die, I want to have been
Chef director and Nathan Eades, Head Chef. still working! I am very fortunate with my
Not really. Chefs have to experiment. They have guys. Their dedication, organisation and
Would you have anticipated, almost 25 years to find and develop their own styles. Anything talent is outstanding. They are loyal to me,
ago, the you would still be in the West Midlands? that inspires new ideas or evolves into new themselves and their craft. Simpsons is just
What do you love most about the area? techniques is a good thing. This industry has so as much about them as it is about me. We
much to credit Heston Blumenthal for. He has want a second star – let’s make no bones
My wife was originally from the West Midlands. led the way for Chefs to be more creative with about that. The restaurant was refurbished
When we left London, it was to raise a young food. Chefs are now thinking outside the box. recently and is looking great, the kitchen
family, and it made sense to come home. Twenty They are being daring. They are engaging with and service teams are on top form. They are

27
consistent, without being boring. The food run this country better than the b**tards we are When you are used to working with such
at Simpsons is our food, and hopefully, one paying to do so at the moment. attention to detail, you cannot help but
day, that second star will come. notice things when you eat out. But I am
I have spoken to young chefs who would never never critical in front of others. I enjoy
It is speculated, nowadays, that the think to send their CV’s in to a Michelin star kitchen, eating out, and absolutely can relax and
hospitality industry has a problem with for the fear that they haven’t worked anywhere enjoy any experience. Again, because I
staffing. This tends to get reported and spectacular, wouldn’t cut the mustard and simply have my restaurant in great hands when
attributed to long hours and low pay. As an be overlooked. What would you say to these chefs I am not there, I can switch off, confident
independent restaurateur, where margins and what do you look for when you are recruiting that Simpsons is a well-oiled machine. Any
can be tight, and regulations such as VAT hit chefs to your kitchens? Is a stellar CV line up critique I have about other places, I keep to
the food industry so hard, competing with essential? Or would you consider a chef with little myself!
other restaurants on salary can be a tough experience at Michelin star level, yet a commitment
challenge. What do you feel could be done and determination to learn? You have a great relationship with UCB
by restaurateurs to solve the staffing crisis? Birmingham, tell us more about their catering
If you have drive, ambition and bloody college?
Staffing is hard. Particularly front of house. I mindedness, you will succeed. Cooking is a
find our government pretty useless. Brexit is passionate craft. It’s not easy, and the hours I wish all Catering colleges across the UK were as
a terrible idea, and we are already concerned can be arduous. I find enthusiasm contagious great as UCB. I have very strong links with them
about possible effects to the hospitality and love to see an inspired young chef pushing and enjoy my associations with them. They are
industry. Everyone in this industry should forward for his or her career. Catering colleges forward thinking in their approach, fantastically
be engaging with the British Hospitality are making stellar progress, though there is much equipped and turning out some great chefs.
Association. They are aggressively fighting more that can be done. Chefs need to learn how
our corner. The UK is in danger of becoming to be business people, as well as talented cooks. Does the Industry have a responsibility to
a closed, inward looking nation. Not looking When I was young, I decided to become a chef consider Nutrition and Wellness when it comes
outside, concerned only with self. The because I just thought I wasn’t clever enough to to food served?
restraints on our industry can be crippling. go to university. I didn’t have a business brain –
20% VAT? Huge Business Rates? Has the or so I thought. So, my advice to any chef looking I fell ill a while ago. It was a tough time. I
government ever considered how many more to further their career, is be persistent – and be remembered asking myself why this had
jobs we could secure, how we could pay better if brave. Go for it, work hard and reap the rewards. happened. Could it have been dietary, lifestyle,
this were reduced, as has been done elsewhere. Remember you are craftsmen and women. But stress? I asked my consultant and he couldn’t
And then you hear of Google and Amazon not learn business skills as you go along. give me an answer as to why I fell ill. He said he
paying their taxes. Any restaurateur knows the was there to treat, and couldn’t retrospectively
absolute lack of leniency shown if we are even Can you switch off when you visit other diagnose reasons this had happened to me.
slightly late paying tax. It’s unfair – we could do restaurants, or are you constantly critiquing in Without question, the time will come when
so much better. I think a bunch of Chefs could your head?! restaurants have to declare nutritional values

28 Are a P r o file : B irmi n g h a m b y C l a i r e B o s i


on menus. Legislation is getting tougher, and UK, so it become second nature to our chefs for the good of our guests.
I truly hope that there are organisations out of the future. Some of the responsibility for Loyal – not only to me, but to each other and,
there ready to help restaurateurs and chefs the health of the nation is falling at the feet of importantly, to themselves. Loyal to their
when that time comes. food providers, and effectively, that’s what we craftsmanship and unashamedly ambitious.
Saying that, enforced regulation aside. Why all are. We all share the same responsibility. Happy – we have great camaraderie and can
shouldn’t we consider health and wellness switch off and enjoy each other’s company at
when creating dishes? When I considered Where would you like to see Simpsons in ten the end of service. Birmingham is well known
diet may have been a factor towards my own years? Are you in Edgbaston for good – or for having a good sense of humour – let’s
illness, I also then questioned this. By not would you relocate again? face it, the place has been the butt of many
considering nutrition on my menus, could I jokes for years. This has rubbed off on our
have unknowingly contributed to somebody We are going nowhere. I strongly hope that I own personalities.
else’s ill health? am still working in ten years! I hope my team
Health, wellness and nutrition may sound achieve the recognition they deserve, and I Finally, a glass of Prosecco or a glass of
“worthy”, so I can understand why chefs may predict Birmingham will be a key destination English sparkling wine?
be reluctant to label their food as “healthy”. for aspiring restaurateurs and chefs.
After all, surely a meal out is a pleasure and If I am honest, I would prefer Champagne.
the time that you can forget calorie content What is your favourite piece of kit in the But if I have to choose, I would opt for a glass
and grams of fat? kitchen, and why? of a sparkling English wine – Nyetimber,
Well, I suppose so, but what a great thing or Ridgeview – for example. English wine
it would be if just a little more thought was I love induction. It helps to create a cleaner, has had such bad press in the past and, I
given, without any detriment to the meal efficient atmosphere in a hot and stuffy think, suffers from its own history a bit. The
experience. environment. wines we are getting from the UK today are
Nestlé professional are leading lights within significantly more sophisticated and relevant
health, wellness and nutrition. We should What four words would you use to describe for our weather and soil conditions. With
listen to them and take advice and guidance your staff? huge names such as Taittinger buying large
from them. They are a large company who areas of the UK to plant vines here, the future
have the technical ability, resources and Family – we are a close knit team, we support of English wine is stronger than ever.
experts already discovering ways that we can each other through all sorts, we trust each
adapt our food to become healthier. I strongly other, and there is a lot of love amongst us! Simpsons Restaurant with Rooms, 20
believe that all these issues need to be Brave – Unafraid to take charge, to give 100% Highfield Rd, Edgbaston B15 3DU
included on catering courses throughout the of themselves to Simpsons, to make sacrifices www.simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk

29
Are a P r o file : B i r m i n g h a m by Claire Bosi

Tom Aikens at
Toms
Kitchen
It is of no surprise Tom Aikens, with two
generations of his family in the wine industry, a
childhood spent in Norfolk with a kitchen garden, and a
love of seasonal food, entered the world of gastronomy.
Having often visited France as a child, Tom discovered
fine regional cuisine at an early age. From there Tom’s
professional path was set and, after completing hotel
school, his first position was working for Michelin
starred David Cavalier.

30
F
ollowing Cavaliers, Tom worked at Pierre Koffman’s 3 Michelin Has recruitment within the city environs been easy?
starred La Tante Claire, for Philip Britten at the Capital Hotel and
with Richard Neat at Pied a Terre, before leaving London and It has, yes been a lot easier than in London, as we know the
heading to Paris and Joel Robuchon. issue with London is that there are now so many restaurants
that the staffing levels are getting critical and its making it very
When Tom left France, he returned to London as Head Chef of Pied a tough to get the right calibre of chefs and FOH all the time. So
Terre. It was during his time there that he famously became – and still it was a very pleasant and nice surprise to be able to attract the
holds the title – the youngest British chef ever awarded two Michelin right calibre of staff and within our time line of opening ….
stars. He was just 26 years old.
Has the design of Toms Kitchen, Birmingham been similar to the
Since 2003, Tom’s own name has been above the door, as it other locations, or have you created a specific look and feel for
was then that he launched his own restaurant in Chelsea. This Birmingham? If so, what principals have you based it on?
restaurant is now closed, yet from the success of Tom Aikens
restaurant was born the brasserie style concept of Toms Kitchen. We followed the core concept of Tom’s Kitchen, serving British
To date, there are six Tom’s kitchen locations. favourites and comfort food classics in a relaxed and informal
brasserie setting. Like in London, the restaurant incorporates
When did you open Tom’s Kitchen at the Mailbox, and how is the supplier pictures on the walls, as well as the wood and
business so far? marble finishing’s, however has gone back to its Chelsea
roots, showcasing a cosier feel and encompassing low lit
We opened late December 2017 and it’s been an extremely lighting and flashes of colour. The site also incorporates a
successful start. The support we’ve received from the city has been lively yet relaxed bar, welcoming diners from the restaurant,
overwhelming. guests wanting to drop in for an after-work beer or pre-
dinner cocktail, as well as those looking to while away an
How many covers can you do, and what private dining do you offer? evening with friends over a bottle of wine.

We have a restaurant and bar area, as well as two private According to the chamber of commerce, Birmingham’s
dining rooms and one semi private area. Our deli located population is over 30% under 25 year olds, many of whom are
in The Urban Room is also available for private hire during young professionals. Large companies such as Deutsche bank
evenings and weekends. and HSBC are investing in the growth of their workforces in the
city, and many large corporates are now seeking to relocate to
Private dining capacities: Birmingham instead of London. With this in mind, how do you
Private Dining Room – The Pastry Room manage to attract both the classic corporate dining, and the
Up to 12 Seated / 20 Standing (featuring a viewing window into the young professionals?
pastry kitchen)
Private Dining Room – The Wine Cellar I like to think that all our London and Birmingham restaurants
Up to 16 Seated / 25 Standing (featuring screening facilities for appeal to a range of age groups, with a wide selection of
meetings) dishes and prices to cater for all requirements. With a bar,
The Veranda – Semi Private area restaurant and deli, I think we offer something for everyone,
Up to 36 Seated / 50 Standing including young professionals, families, groups of friends and
Tom’s Kitchen Deli more mature adults, we always have and always will be a
200 standing welcoming and comfortable brand.
Brasserie Exclusive Hire
Up to 80 Seated / 100 standing Birmingham has a great food scene, and many Michelin stars.
Why do you think this is rarely covered by press?
How many do you employ, both FOH, administration and Back?
Approximately 40 people, full-time and part-time I think it’s getting covered more and more. Birmingham really
Toms kitchen, Birmingham is the 6thin the group. What prompted does offer some fantastic restaurants and talented chef’s and
you to come to the city? it’s developing year on year. The press may have been quieter
than say London, but it’s certainly not been silent, that’s why
Birmingham is a vibrant and bustling city with a thriving food we moved to Birmingham, as we were so aware of how the city
scene. There is already a wonderful array of restaurants is growing.
in the city, and I believe that Tom’s Kitchen now offers an
exciting new option for diners in The Mailbox development. Who, would you say, are your top 3 suppliers?
Birmingham has really developed over the last few years and
with the HS2 line and HSBC moving to the city, things can only Lake District Farmers for meat, Cacklebean for Eggs and Celtic
get bigger and better for Birmingham. Fish & Game for fish.

31
You have had an amazing career to date. If you could go back in time one other chef worked the kitchen, we were all working silly hours. All for
and give yourself one piece of advice as you began your journey into the what? To see if we could at least keep a single star. Never in my head had
catering industry, what would that piece of advice be? I thought that we would ever keep the two. No one else had ever thought
it either, and the last 12 months of working 6 days a week and going to the
You can’t say yes to everything, it’s impossible. I am an active chef Market ,  2-3 times a week, seemed to make it all worthwhile.
who is always on the go and full of ideas, but sometimes you have to  
realise when an opportunity just isn’t worth taking and that it’s healthy But yes, I made many sacrifices. I was tired all the time, I mean all the
to let yourself breathe… for me my family always come first, even if time. I was a bad manager of people and a control freak of the worst
that means saying no to something else. you can ever imagine. Some days I did not know my left from my right. I
just needed someone to tell me take a step back stop and breathe. I was
Two Michelin stars for a British chef at age 26 – you are, as yet, unbeaten always going 200 miles an hour. Would I change it? Who knows. It’s not
in that record.  Why do you think this is and what advice would you give like at the age of 25 you get the opportunity to take over a restaurant is it?
any prospective challenger to your title? We all know that huge success And times were very different then. Now knowing what I do, and what I
can sometimes come with a cost. What sacrifices did a very young Tom went through to achieve this, I would have much preferred to have carried
Aikens make to steam ahead in his career so fast? on working through Europe and not become a head chef at the age of 25.
 
The time that I was at Pied a Terre, when I had taken over from However, it made my name at a very early age. But it also nearly
Richard Neat, was like the Wild, Wild West. London was a very destroyed me through my own silly fault. Life is full of lessons and
different place and so were the chefs. It was an amazing and crazy I have had many. It was the biggest challenge all the time. I am
time in London. Restaurants were popping up everywhere and chefs always a person that will take any challenge head on. It’s in my
were making headlines for all the right & wrong reasons. nature to never give up. Always push on, always to persevere.

I did not have any time to think about anything. I had ¾’s of the team leave Tom’s Kitchen, The Mailbox, Birmingham 0121 2895111 birmingham@
after 3 weeks of me taking over Pied a Terre. Myself, Billy Drabble and tomskitchen.co.uk

32 Are a P r o file : B irmi n g h a m b y C l a i r e B o s i


Recipe b y To m A i ke n s

SPICY CRAB CAKES WITH TOMATO SALSA

Makes 5 Tomato Salsa and black pepper, add the egg yolks
●● 70g red onion, peeled and diced and check the seasoning. Mould into
INGREDIENTS ●● 3 garlic cloves, finely diced approximately 65g size cakes that are
●● Spicy Crab Cakes ●● 300g tomatoes, peeled, de-seeded approximately 1.5cm depth and 5cm
●● 135g fresh white crab meat and diced 20g lime juice diameter, place into the fridge to set for
●● 135g Baked Potato, put through a sieve ●● 5g red chilli, finely diced a hour.
●● 85g shallots, finely diced ●● 10g coriander, finely chopped 3. Once set, using floured hands and a
●● 17g butter ●● 7g basil, finely chopped palette knife, tap the cakes into the
●● 3.5g salt ●● 35ml olive oil right shape using plenty of flour, place
●● 6 turns of black pepper ●● 6g sea salt one at a time into the egg wash and
●● 4 cloves garlic, crushed and finely ●● 7 turns black pepper then lifting them out one by one place
chopped 20g coriander, roughly chopped ●● 8g caster sugar into the crumbs and tap all over with a
●● 2 large red chilli, finely diced and no palette knife so they are well coated,
seeds METHOD place onto a clean tray and repeat the
●● 2 large green chilli, finely diced and no 1. To make the crab cakes, place the process again with just egg wash and
seeds Zest of 3 limes butter into a pan on a medium heat, bread crumbs.
●● 1.3g smoked paprika once melted add the shallots, salt, 4. To make the tomato salsa, mix all the
●● 0.5g cayenne pepper pepper and cover with a lid, sweat ingredients together and season to
●● 1 x egg for egg wash till just soft for 2-3 minutes with no taste.
●● Flour for Panco crumbs colour, then add the garlic and cook for 5. To assemble, place the crab cake into
●● 1 x pack Panco bread crumbs a further minute, then leave to cool the fryer until lightly golden. Then place
in a bowl. in the oven for five minutes. To serve,
2. Mix into this the crab, potato, coriander, put the tomato salsa into a side dish
chilli, lime zest, paprika, cayenne pepper next to the crab cake.

33
Are a P r o file : B i r m i n g h a m by Claire Bosi

Glynn Purnell
You cannot get
more Birmingham
than Glynn. Born
in Chelmsley Wood, Glynn
discovered a penchant for
cooking at a very early age.
He readily admits to cooking
beans on toast for his siblings
after school but added extra
ingredients such as curry
powder and chopped onions.
A combination, I believe,
he revisited later on, in his
professional career.

34
G
lynn’s fine dining career began in Over the two sites of Purnell’s restaurant and the food. It’s very unique. It’s very vivid. And it still
1996 when he joined Andreas Antona Purnell’s bistro we employ about 80 staff. maintains a sense of my urban and industrial
at Simpsons restaurant, which was That’s chefs, waiters, admin, front of house Birmingham background whilst also creating a
then in Kenilworth. Whilst there, Glynn and porters. We’ve got a good mix. more lavish finish to the restaurant, matching
experienced several stages with chefs such the sophistication of the cuisine. They have also
as Gordon Ramsay, Gary Rhodes and at Has recruitment in the city been easy? installed a slot window which allows diners to
restaurants across Europe. In 2002, Glynn view the action and excitement of the kitchen
worked as sous chef for Claude Bosi, at Recruitments never easy. Obviously more and and see me and my team at work. Wilkinson
Hibiscus Restaurant in Ludlow, Shropshire. more restaurants are opening which means Beven did a fantastic job.
that there is more choice for people looking for
2003 saw Glynn in his first head chef role jobs, which is great. It’s difficult though. When According to the chamber of commerce,
at Jessica’s in Edgbaston. It was there that we first opened and when I had Jessica’s, I had Birmingham’s population is over 30% under
Birmingham was awarded its first ever everybody’s CV. I had the pick. I still do get a 25 year olds, many of whom are young
Michelin Star, and named Restaurant of the good amount of CV’s but it’s a little tougher professionals. Large companies such as
Year by the AA guide. now. Adams, Simpsons, Carters, Turners… Deutsche bank and HSBC are investing in the
they’re all the same ilk of restaurants as us. growth of their workforces in the city, and many
In 2007, Glynn left Jessica’s and opened his own Potential staff get to do a trial and then they large corporates are now seeking to relocate to
restaurant “Purnells” on Cornwall street. Again, get to choose where they work, rather than the Birmingham instead of London. With this in mind,
the Michelin guide found favour with Glynns other way round. how do you manage to attract both the classic
cooking and he was awarded a Michelin star for corporate dining, and the young professionals?
the second time running in 2009. How would you describe the style of Purnell’s
restaurant. Did you work with an interior To be honest with you, I never really look at
Glynn, you are the Ultimate Birmingham fan. Tell designer, and if so, what was the brief you gave those demographics. I basically set up my stall
us something about the city that we don’t know? them? What “feel” did you want to achieve? for what I like to cook and what I believe people
like to eat. When I walk through the dining
Well, apart from Birmingham being the centre of The food is definitely my food. Purnell’s has got room most evenings and lunch sittings I have
the universe, it also used to be the culinary desert its own quirky edge. As for the restaurant itself, it a very diverse crowd. Obviously with my media
of Britain. The ironic thing is that Birmingham used to be quite generic. It used to be quite grey, presence I get big foodie fans and people that
is twinned with Lyon which is the home of with dark tables. A local award winning designer connect with my personality. On the other
Gastronomy. It’s also twinned with other fantastic from a company called Wilkinson Beven came hand, because we are a serious operation
food cities such as Chicago. Now we can actually to see me and we had a coffee and chatted a and do the job properly we do get a massive
stand shoulder to shoulder and be able to stick out few times and he then built the décor around corporate interest as well. I believe we’ve got a
our chests and be as good as them. my colourful, lively personality and to go with great balance of that. What is nice, is when we

Purnell’s goes from strength to strength, how do


you feel it has embedded and been embraced by
the Birmingham food scene. What, if anything,
would you change about it?

I would change absolutely nothing about


Purnell’s. It was built from hard work and not a
lot of money. It is ten years old now, so it’s taken
ten years to get to this stage. We are one of the
forerunners of the Birmingham Food scene.

Do you have plans to open further restaurants?

I most definitely have plans to open further


restaurants. Whether in the city or on the
outskirts of the city, I am always looking at sites
and concepts. It keeps me fresh. I won’t say
it’s going to be tomorrow, and I won’t say it’s
going to be next year, but there will definitely
be something else in the future.

How many do you employ, between FOH, BOH


and administration?

35
do have the corporate crowd, they tend to do because I’m sure there’s no red mullet there. relevant, and we’re still pushing the boundaries
business AND have fun, so that cliché of don’t I sometimes use the Birmingham markets of Birmingham. I look at myself as the Roger
mix business with pleasure certainly dissolves for my seafood. They get a fresh delivery of Federer of the British culinary scene… I know
when you come to Purnell’s. shellfish every day. I also use couriers to bring I’m slightly old, but I’m still good! People
my fish from the coast. It’s a mix really. I don’t are still frightened of us! If I did move the
Birmingham has a great food scene, and many believe that just because it’s from two miles restaurant I’d probably move it to somewhere
Michelin stars. Why do you think this is rarely away it is necessarily better than something where I could have rooms, whether that
covered by press? that’s from 20 miles away, just because it looks is in the city centre or on the outskirts of
good on your menu to say it’s local. For me, it’s Birmingham. But I’ve got no immediate plans
The difficult thing with Birmingham and with me about the quality of the ingredients. If it’s not for that. That’s way off if it ever happens.
being a Brummie, and being the first Michelin good enough, it’s not good enough, whether
starred chef in Birmingham and putting myself it’s from Scotland or Worcester. I never fall You were relatively young when you opened
out there from the start of the food scene, is into the ‘local’ trap, as you’re just cutting your your first restaurant, if you could go back in
that Birmingham has always had negative nose off to spite your face. The national dish in time and give yourself one piece of advice,
media coverage, especially when it comes to England is chicken tikka masala, and I’m sure what would it be?
the national press. That’s because, like anything they don’t get their curry leaves locally!
that’s in the middle, it always gets stepped over. I’ve always been a person that never has any
It’s always about the north or about the south, Currently, what/who would you say are the regrets. If it happened, it happened. I’m not
and people forget about the middle. What people most exciting places or people within the a massive fan of Back to the Future! Maybe I
need to remember is that the middle is the heart. industry? should have told myself at 14 years old to not
It’s where it all began. The Midlands was at the have become a chef and become a policeman
heart of the industrial revolution. Without the I’ve always had a lot of respect and a massive instead! I would never change anything I’ve
Midlands, we wouldn’t have any lightbulbs, let soft spot for Heston Blumenthal. He’s a friend done when it comes to my career. If you don’t
alone steam trains. It’s nice to see now that the of mine, and he’s one of the most intelligent act on instinct then you never do anything. I
national press is more onside with us. people I know. He’s always good fun. I respect look at chefs now who have been doing the
what he’s done in the industry, it’s been same stuff for fifteen years, and I’ve opened
Have you managed to source good local phenomenal. The other one is my mentor four or five restaurants in that time and
producers from the Birmingham area? Claude Bosi. He’s just opened Bibendum in presented national television programmes.
London. Also Sat Bains, who is a good friend of
I think sometimes that the ‘locally produced mine. I knew Sat when he had hair, that’s how What, would you say, is your favourite piece of
only’ idea can be a bit of a cliché. I always long I’ve known him! kit in your kitchen?
select the best ingredients I can find. I use
a company from Worcester to supply our What is the future for Purnell’s? Would you ever Probably the kitchen porter! No-one likes
vegetables, but if I can get better asparagus consider leaving Birmingham? If so, where to? washing up do they?! Once he walks out then
from a little further afield then I will. My lamb someone’s got to do it. And a really, really
comes from just outside Swindon. We use There are no plans for Purnell’s to go sharp knife.
Herefordshire beef. And obviously with fish, anywhere. It’s my baby. We’re ten years old.
we can’t trawl the canals here in Birmingham, We’ve kept up with the times, we’re still How would your staff describe you?

Legend. Multifaceted. Fun. Emotional.

Finally, Brown Sauce or Ketchup?!

I stopped having Brown Sauce when they took


the HP factory away from Birmingham in 2007.
Purely because the government should have
saved the factory. 120 people worked there.
When Heinz bought it they should have made
them keep it in Birmingham. As a kid when we
were coming back from holiday and you got on
the motorway you could see the HP tower and
I knew I was home. Also, as I’ve got older I’ve
got a real problem with condiments in general.
If I walk into a pub that smells of condiments I
feel sick. I’ve got a condiment phobia!

Purnells Restaurant, 55 Cornwall Street,


Birmingham B32DH
www.purnellsrestaurant.com

36 Are a P r o file : B irmi n g h a m b y C l a i r e B o s i


Recipe by Glynn Purnell

Birmingham
soup
This dish makes me smile because people have
always taken the piss out of Brum saying it has
no food culture other than curry, bullshit!
This dish is a really special remake of a soup
made by Matthew Boulton who was one of the
leaders of industry in the late 1700’s. He made
this soup to sell and serve to his workers for a
penny; it’s now a bit more in my restaurant!
The dish is well worth it, we serve it with
smoked bone marrow, foie gras butter and best
of all, pikelets!! Not crumpets! (Unless you want
a fight that is!)

“BIRMINGHAM SOUP” 1793

Ingredients for braised ox


cheek
●● 1 ox cheek – untrimmed/fat on
●● ¼ bottle of red wine
●● 3 pints of boiling water
●● 1 carrot
●● 2 sticks of celery
●● 1 onion – washed and peeled
●● 1 leek
●● 2 mushrooms
●● 2 tomatoes 1. Soak the bone marrow in cold water for 3. Heat through gently in a wide based pan
●● Sprig of thyme an hour until the marrow can be easily and add the cold beef stock
●● Sprig of rosemary pushed out 4. Stirring constantly, bring the mixture to a
2. Place the hay and smoking chips in gentle simmer on a high heat
1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C the bottom of a smoker and burn until 5. Once the liquid is hot and a ‘raft’/crust of
2. Render the fat off the ox cheek in a hot smoking vegetables and mince begins to form stop
frying pan until golden brown 3. Place the bone marrow in the smoker for stirring
3. Place the cheek in a deep tray and de- 4 minutes 6. Once the raft has formed fully, reduce
glaze the frying pan with the red wine 4. Dice the bone marrow into 1cm cubes the heat to barely a simmer and make a
4. Wash all the vegetables and cut into and warm through in a hot oven until just chimney (hole) in the middle
2.5cm pieces. Place on top of the cheek beginning to melt 7. Leave to clarify for 1 ½ - 2 hours on a low
along with the herbs and pour the de- 5. Place the pieces on top of the braised heat
glaze over the top. Completely cover with cheeks ready to serve 8. Let the consommé cool before straining
boiling water through a damp muslin cloth or fine tea
5. Tightly foil the tray and braise in the oven Ingredients for beef consommé towel
for 4 hours ●● 1 carrot 9. When reheating to serve do not allow the
6. 6. Remove from oven and allow to cool in ●● 1 stick of celery liquid to boil, this will cause it to become
the liquid for approximately 1 hour ●● White of 1 leek cloudy. Season to taste
7. Take out the ox cheek, remove any fat and ●● 1 mushroom – washed and peeled
sinew and discard. Place the cheek on a ●● 1 tomato To serve, cut the ox cheek into four pieces and
flat tray ●● 3 egg whites place into bowls along with the bone marrow.
8. Keep warm to one side ready to serve, ●● 300g of very lean beef mince Pour the consommé over the top.
cover if necessary. ●● 25g dried ceps
●● 1 litre of good quality beef stock At the restaurant we serve this dish over a
Ingredients for smoked bone ●● Powdered ginger and salt to season bed of diced root vegetables, pre-cooked
marrow lentils and barley with a drizzle of parsley
●● 2 5cm pieces of bone with marrow 1. Wash all the vegetables and slice finely oil. Alternatively it can be served as above,
●● 1 handful of hay 2. Blitz together with the egg, minced beef simply the cheek, bone marrow and
●● 1 handful of hickory smoking chips and ceps in a food processor consommé.

37
BY APPOINTMENT TO
HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN
BUTCHERS
AUBREY ALLEN LIMITED
COVENTRY

Our Beef is matured in a time t: 024 7642 2222


email: sales@aubreyallen.co.uk
honoured way to naturally develop www.aubreyallenwholesale.co.uk
Follow us @AubreyAllen
the texture and intensify the flavour. Instagram: aubreyallenbutchers
Are a P r o file : B i r m i n g h a m by Cla ire B os i

Richard Turner
T
urners restaurant is situated in
Harbourne, a leafy suburb of
Birmingham just 5 minutes away from
the city centre. Self-taught, the Midlands
born chef runs a small, tight ship with only 3
front of house and a kitchen brigade of just
5. As a genuine restaurateur, involved in all
areas of his restaurant, Richard understands
his client base well. This prompted him to
make some radical changes to his menus last
year. Ditching tasting menu’s and returning to
A la Carte has brought a new lease of life to
Richards diners, and his team.

You opened Turners in 2007, so are heading for


your tenth birthday – how do you plan to mark the
occasion?

Well, I suppose I could say that I would really


like a day off! Realistically though, I need
to give it some thought. I like the idea of
running a menu that showcases 10 different
dishes from 10 years. Saying that, I have
moved away from tasting menus recently.
But maybe, to mark this occasion, it would
be a nice idea. Let’s see.

You changed the nature of your menus quite


radically last year, moving from fine dining to a
more relaxed, casual style. How has this been
embraced by your guests? How has this change
affected your kitchen?

I really fell out of favour with tasting menus,


and, if I am honest, got totally bored of
them. I much prefer a starter/main/dessert
executed perfectly. Don’t misunderstand
me, there are some chefs that showcase
tasting menus fantastically, but I think that
for every one of those, there are several that
just send out course after course without
genuine understanding of why. It creates
more mis en place, it can draw the focus
away from serving three courses brilliantly.
As a restaurateur as well as a chef, I think a
large part of the dining experience for the
guest is reading through a well thought out
menu, and choosing what they would like.
Then being free to order their wine without
being dictated to.

39
I am proud to have taken this decision, it And I hate the phrase “fine dining”! and that’s great – but we must learn how to
wasn’t an easy one to make, but it was the actually cook real food, make stocks, manage
right one. It doesn’t reflect on the quality of Pet peeves in the industry? Do you have any? kitchens. Learning your craft takes years, and
my restaurant, or my food. It opens up my it concerns me when I hear of chefs in senior
restaurant to a whole bunch of new diners, Again, relating back to my decisions about positions at, say, 22 years old.
whist existing ones are enjoying it too. I my menu’s. I worry that we could be turning
think many chefs and restaurants will move out chefs who do not understand the basic Have you created a specific look and feel for
away from tasting menus in the future, but I fundamentals of cooking. Fashions and Turners @ 69? If so, what principals have you
was one of the first to act upon it! trends have moved dramatically with food – based it on? Did you use an Interior designer?

Hahaa! I wish. Look, I opened Turners with no


budget and no interior designer. Everything
you see is as a result of our own hard work.
The place, when I took it on, had previously
been used as a restaurant. And it was a total
sh*thole. It smelt of deep fat fryers, and I
don’t think those had ever been cleaned.
Everything was covered in a sticky layer of
grease. It was a mess.
But it was my name above the door, and after a
really long deep clean, and lots of blood sweat
and tears, we opened the doors to the public.
We did have a minor refurbishment last year to
the restaurant, but that was almost ten years
after opening. That’s the thing when it’s your
own place. You have to work damn hard to
change the things you want. But when you do,
the sense of satisfaction is great!

UCB in Birmingham seems very proactive in the


city. Do you have much involvement with them?

Not as much as I would like, and this is

40 Are a P r o file : B irmi n g h a m b y C l a i r e B o s i


something I am working on at the moment. mechanisms needed to problem solve the birds cheeping every morning? Perhaps.
Without question, it is a well-regarded situations. Instead, we will have people And perhaps as I grow older and mellow a
University. I do think that it is important with a sense of entitlement that, whatever bit more, it is something I would consider.
for chefs studying in colleges to fully happens, whatever effort they do – or don’t But certainly not for now!
understand how a kitchen operates. We - put in, that they will succeed, that they
don’t chatter constantly, we don’t keep have done enough. If you were to have a night off tonight and could
checking Facebook on our phones, and we choose anywhere for supper?
do put the hours in, knuckle down during Opening those doors for the first time in 2007, if Eleven Madison Park would be just great,
service and learn as we go along. you could go back in time and give yourself one thank you. Or Can Roca. Or actually, I would
piece of advice, what would that piece of advice be? love to go to Copenhagen, try some of the
So, does that imply that you think student new places there. But as its just before
chefs have a somewhat rose-tinted view of a If you get an opportunity, make sure service, and I have guests arriving very
professional kitchen? you grasp it and run with it. When I shortly, I think its staff food.
was awarded my Michelin star, I was so
No, I wouldn’t say exactly that. They need overwhelmed and knocked for six, that If I were to ask your staff to describe you?
to engage with real kitchens, with real time I don’t feel that I made the best use of
constraints and budgets. We all know how it. I missed out on stuff by being totally Ooh, erm..I suppose they would say I am “Very
fast moving, hectic and damn hot service preoccupied. Opportunities are few and far demanding”. I guess they are right. I do ask for
can get at times. This is a total contrast between, you have to make the most of it, commitment, dedication and enthusiasm all the
to University, where things can be a little life is too short to do otherwise. Keep your time. I do push them to be the best they can be,
more…polite! wits about you, but be brave and go for it. to perform to their best abilities. When a chef
Another issue that bugs me, and this is That’s what I would say to myself! leaves Turners to work somewhere else, I want
a social, cultural and educational trend him, or her, to be an asset to wherever they may
nowadays, is the “everyone’s a winner” Would you ever considering leaving Birmingham, go, to reflect the dedication that Turners has and
mentality. It seems that in every walk of life and where would you head to, if so? to prove to themselves how great they can be.
nowadays, nobody is allowed to fail or to
lose. Life is just not like that, and kitchens I have no plans to leave here anytime soon. Finally, Dark, Milk, or White Chocolate?
aren’t like that. We all f*ck up every now The great thing about Birmingham is that It has to be really, really dark. I cannot stand Milk
and again, and what we cannot say is “never you can be out of the city, and amongst chocolate!
mind, it doesn’t matter”. It does, especially some gorgeous countryside very quickly. We
if it throws a whole order off balance. I are extremely lucky in that regard. Do I ever Turners at 69, 69 High Street,
worry that we are creating groups of future daydream about a little countryside place, Harbourne, Birmingham B17 9NS
adults who simply will not have the coping where I can pick my own wild garlic and hear www.turnersat69.c0.uk

41
Are a P r o file : B i r m i n g h a m by Claire Bosi

Brad Carter

42
Brad Carter is perhaps, a
L
ike many chefs, Brads first
introduction was as a kitchen porter
different kettle of fish to the in his local pub. He decided to
other Birmingham boys. He doesn’t study catering at the well regarded UCB
Birmingham.
have a CV that shouts out big names After graduating from UCB, Brad
embarked on a journey through
and multiple stars – yet he was restaurants in France and Menorca,
developing his skills and finding
awarded his own Michelin star in 2015. inspirations in flavours.
Having always had a wish to open his own
Mastering his trade in a very calculated restaurant, Brad realised this ambition in
2010 when he opened Carters of Moseley
and business-like manner has created with his partner Holly Jackson.
a self-assured chef and, importantly, a Tell us about the journey that brought you
confident businessman. to open Carters of Moseley?

I started at UCB Birmingham 99-01 then I


went off to Menorca to work in Spain for a
year, in a small family run restaurant, it was
great fun, working hard in the sunshine!
It’s here where I found my appreciation
for purism of ingredients, simply served
but great products & provenance. After
returning from Menorca I wanted to take
job roles to benefit my personal skills as
opposed to working for a famous chef
with any particular style, & back then
there wasn’t anywhere near the choice of
excellent restaurants in Birmingham as
there is now so choices were a bit more
limited. After a stint at a hotel, City Inn,
I took my first head chef job at a small
family run restaurant called Toyk, this is
where I met my partner Holly (who I own

43
Carters with) as she already worked there. We
were a modern bistro style & really nailed the
market, the locals loved us, we worked really
well together & within a couple of months
the owner left us to it, it was great, it was a
taste of our own as we treated it like it was.
We worked there together for around 6 years
& made it into a very profitable business
& enjoyed every minute! After a change in
ownership we had to move on. We realised
we would always work together from now on
so went out seeking a role where we could
go into somewhere as a couple & we found a
pub restaurant in Lapworth, The Punchbowl.
We worked there for around a year, it was
perfect step for me, a bit more of a budget
with ingredients, very busy & a large team
to lead, I also had a chance to work with my
British style in the pub which the owner was
totally behind. Then came our chance to
open Carters. We knew that the next place
we would work in would be our own we just
didn’t know when, so it felt premature to leave
the pub as we really enjoyed it but it was our
chance & now here we are, loving it! 

Why Birmingham and not London?

Haaha, it’s my home town & I want


to be an impact on it! Also, I couldn’t
work anywhere else with this
accent!!

Opening your own business at a


young age has both benefits and
downsides (I remember all my
friends travelling around Europe
whilst I was working 17 hour
days). What would you say are the
negatives and positives?

Yeah when we opened Carter’s I was


28 & Holly was 25 so we were young
to do what we were doing. It’s what we
dreamed of before a house or anything.
Obviously with that does come some
sacrifices, you miss family events & nights
out with friends but this is a lifestyle choice.
It doesn’t feel like a ‘job’ in many senses it’s
just what you do & everything else fits into
it. When you have a whole team that has
the same mentality they become extended
family & you spend all your time together
including the days we are closed, as least I
know we do!

You have had some fantastic National


reviews – have these had a big impact on
business and how important are they to you?

44
The national coverage is great as you get I would ever get a star but in 2015 we did it, it
a greater exposure to the rest of the UK was a proud day for all of us!
who may not have heard of you. Saturday
Kitchen for instance is a great outlet to Two stars in the future?
showcase your food & restaurant. I still get
bookings coming through now from when I You never know! As I said earlier, we didn’t
was on in October last year! My main focus set out for 1 star but with natural progression
is our restaurant & product so if I get asked you will always get better & I am still very
to do appearances to aid business I will & if ambitious! It’s always down to Michelin & they
we get in to any list’s it’s just a mark that we will reward you if you are at that level.
are doing something good! 
Holly, there is a great mix of both corporate
How many staff do you employ at Carters? and social dining in Birmingham – what
would you say is your biggest demographic?
We employ 4 full time chefs, 2 part-time
trainee chefs, 2 kitchen porters, 5 front of I would say our main demographic is
house staff, myself & Holly full time & a social because of our location. We are a
cleaner! neighbourhood restaurant & slightly out
of the city centre. Because of this, I feel it
Who would you say are your top 3 is a little harder for the corporate sector to
suppliers? get to us. We do a have a percentage of
corporate guests but we offer an experience
This is a tough one as I believe all my rather than a business type lunch.
suppliers add something to our restaurant.
I have hand-picked them all & I am good Brad – how would your staff describe you?
friends with all of them! If I had to pick 3,
Definitely Paddock Farm who supply my pork Hopefully inspiring! I always try to enthuse
it’s the best I’ve tasted, Forager, they have the team with my new findings, knowledge
been integral to our supply of wild foods since & include them in everything I do! A
we opened, & Westlands in Evesham, Will is restaurant is about everyone in it not just
the future of growing in the U.K! the chef, I love to lead them & always throw
in some jokes to the day!
Is there a good camaraderie amongst the
Michelin stars of Birmingham? Your fantasy kitchen brigade, who would
you have cooking in it?
Haahaha, yeah definitely, when we meet
up or have an appearance together there Haaha right then! My sous chef Pete
is always good banter! We have the same Jackson, (Carter’s) Gareth Ward (Ynyshir),
positive attitude for Birmingham & its Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall (River Cottage),
culture, We are all comfortable in our own Jiro Ono (Sukiyabashi), Chad Robertson
style & recommended customers to each (Tartine), Magnus Nilsson (Faviken), James
other’s restaurants. We share the love! Lowe (Lyles), reckon we would be just fine!! 

How did you react when you were awarded What chef or restaurant excites you at the
your Michelin star? Were you hopefully moment?
expectant?
Fergus Henderson & St John. It’s my
Honestly I was shocked! When we set out to favourite all time restaurant. How it still has
open Carter’s it was business focused not a cult status & stays so cool this many years
award driven. We wanted to have a place is a dream for every chef, it just ticks my
where we could live & work into our future boxes, perfectly British.
careers & create a successful restaurant. It
was a couple of years in where we really Finally, coffee drinker, or tea drinker?
started to refine what we did.  I’ve never
worked in a Michelin starred restaurant & Coffee definitely. Single Origin beans,
didn’t know what to expect. When the editor manual brew, no milk or sugar, yesss
of the Michelin guide, Rebecca Burr called Carters of Moseley, 2C wake green road,
me the day before to tell me, I was shocked Moseley, Birmingham, B13 9EZ www.
& thought it was a joke. I never thought that cartersofmoseley.co.uk

45
Are a P r o file : B i r m i n g h a m by Claire Bosi

Adam Stokes
Adams restaurant

46
Born and raised in Northampton, Adam Stokes has a love affair
with food that began when he was a boy. Fortunate to have a
father who cultivated all the family’s vegetables in his allotment, Adam
had an appreciation of flavour from an early age.

47
A
dam began his professional career at
Hambleton Hall in Leicestershire under
Aaron Patterson. Leaving this role as sous
chef in 2008, Adam then became head chef at
Glenapp Castle in SW Scotland at a very young
age of 26. In the four years he stayed at Glenapp,
Adam was awarded his first Michelin star, and
secured 4 AA rosettes.

Leaving the Scottish Lowlands, and moving to


Birmingham, Adam and his wife, Natasha initially
opened their restaurant as a pop up whilst they
researched permanent premises. Less than six
months after opening, they were awarded their
own Michelin Star, with AA rosettes following
shortly afterwards.

You moved to your new premises in 2016, how


has business been so far?

Business has been great. When we re-opened


in the new location in January 2016 we limited
the covers to the same as our old premises. This
allowed us to hit the ground running with our
existing team. The plan was to gradually open up
more availability over the first six months. However
the demand made this process accelerate and
we were at full capacity after the first six weeks.
In the last 12 months we have seen a growth
in average spends as we maximise on our bar
offering pre & post dinner. The improved facilities
and comfortable restaurant provide a space where
people want to spend some time.

How many covers can you do, and what private


dining do you offer?

We can cater for 60 people which is inclusive


of a Chef’s Table for 12 and a Private Dining
room for 17. The Chef’s Table is a horseshoe
shaped pink marble table with a stainless &
black Rimex finish - it has a perfect view of
the kitchen and is a unique place to entertain.
The Private Dining room is an extension of
the restaurant whilst still being able to offer a
separate area for a group/party.

What is the sum of your brigade? How many do


you employ?

We employ 40 members of Staff: 13 Kitchen, 3


Admin, 8 Runners, 16 Front of House.

Has recruitment been easy?

We have probably found it as challenging as


others. I always try and over staff the teams
to ensure that if we are one down due to an
absence, this does not impact the team or the

48 Are a P r o file : B irmi n g h a m b y C l a i r e B o s i


consistency of the offering. This may make for
slightly increased wages budgets but teams
are happier because we are appropriately
staffed, it also means we can bridge staff
changes/holidays/illnesses smoothly.

You intended to simply run a pop up restaurant in


the early days, what prompted you to stay in the
Birmingham and seek new premises the city?

The original plan was to open up a pop-up


restaurant in Birmingham whilst we waited for
the permanent premises. We had our eyes set
on a building which was due to be completed
the next year and was owned by the same
landlords. Over the next year or so we really
got to know Birmingham and we listened to
our guests as to what their needs and wants
were. We then decided that for many reasons
our original permanent location was not right
for what we wanted to achieve and so the
search started! A search that took 18 months
and looking at nearly every property in the
vicinity before we found our home on Waterloo
Street. We had undertaken extensive research
before coming to Birmingham into food trends,
business growth and development, working
with marketing teams and the council to ensure
that this move was as smooth as possible.
However, it has been the guests that have
helped mould the final product. We genuinely
care that each and every guest has the
experience they dream of.

How would you describe the style of Adams


restaurant? Did you work with an interior
designer, and if so, what was the brief you gave
them? What “feel” did you want to achieve?

We wanted to create a restaurant where you


could eat as a couple, or with family & friends.
One of good quality, with high standards and
where guests can feel comfortable dining for
any occasions. We see so many different people
walking through the door that have chosen us for
so many different reasons.
We worked with the same interior designer
for both restaurants and we asked them for
‘understated elegance’. A restaurant that is classy
but understated, one that has a quality feel but is
not ‘blingy’, a restaurant that is honest and warm.

How do you manage to attract both the classic


corporate dining, and the young professionals
that make up such a proportion of the city?

Birmingham is a fantastic city for growth and


redevelopment, it is what we were attracted to.
Quality hospitality is attractive to both the classic

49
and the modern diner. Our facility allows us to be them to ensure only the finest quality comes the industry and enjoy living our lives through it. We
flexible but most of all it is our service that allows through the door. have two sons under four so that takes our focus
each guest to have a tailored experience. We on the restaurants closed days, having said that
have a fantastic Front of House team who share Currently, what or who would you say are the kids love being at the restaurant and eating
our passion and interest for the type of service the most exciting places or people within the out. We are forging our futures and the futures of
we want to achieve, headed up by Shaun Dunlop industry? our kids so the restaurant is our priority. We are a
who has been with us from the beginning. We are very strong unit together and that is required to
professional but with a lot of passion, honesty and Gareth Ward at Ynyshir is cooking some very overcome the many challenges that running a
friendliness. Shaun seeks out personalities that we exciting and interesting food at the moment. business throws at us.
can train and develop but more importantly they It has traditional quality underpinning his own
need to add to the team and bring the spark. It is unique style that makes for a series of tastes Adam, what is your favourite piece of kit in
a fine line and difficult to achieve but with a lot of that are really delicious. I also love the more your kitchen?
hard work we try and deliver this unique style day casual style restaurant popping up that have
in day out. superb quality and diversity. Birmingham’s recent We have a lot of induction units built into the
Original Patty Men & Indian Brewery are some kitchen, they are really energy efficient and there
Who, would you say, are your top 3 suppliers? of the latest. Out of Birmingham we love to pop look very smart. They are easy to keep clean and
Have you managed to find good local producers in for some authentic tapas at one of Barrafina’s very fast when inputting heat into the food. But
from the Birmingham area? bars dotted round London or a tasty bite at I would have to say the silent hero of the kitchen
Bubbledogs or Meat Liquor. is our ceiling - the integrated ventilated ceiling
We have some great suppliers at Adam’s from makes for a clean, calm & stylish place to work.
forging links with the team who runs them. You are a husband/wife team at Adams. Which
My relationship with some suppliers goes means it can be difficult to switch off from work at Finally. Digestive, Ginger Nut or Hobnob biscuit?
back many years for example Braehead Foods times? How do you manage to detach yourselves
in Kilmarnock where we get exceptionally from work when the restaurant is closed? 100% Hobnobs – one nibble and you’re nobbled!
good game throughout the season and the Just delicious and closely linked to flapjacks which
Island Divers in Kyle of Lochalsh. We also use The restaurant and the hospitality industry is our are awesome.
Wellocks for all of our fresh produce, they are lives, that is how it has been for years, we have
constantly in search for the perfect ingredients learnt together to embrace it and enjoy it whilst Adams, 16 Waterloo Street, Birmingham B2 5UG
and we have a very good relationship with working and not working. We find that we embrace www.adamsrestaurant.co.uk

51
M eet T h e s u pplier : W i l k i n s o n B e v e n D e s i g n

W
ilkinson Beven Design produce of Wilkinson Beven, were already familiar and industrial elements had always featured;
interiors that are surprising, timeless with Purnell’s, both in terms of the look of the the problem with this was that ‘multi-layers’ of
and built around the personal restaurant and the quality of the superb food, disparate ideas referencing the industrial feel
requirements of their clients. More-often-than- exquisitely presented by Chef Purnell and his of the city had led to the overall ambience of
not, these qualities are applied to residential team. This seemed not only a real opportunity the restaurant being a little harsh and ‘chilly’ in
projects in some of the most appealing to see what Chef had in mind – but also to appearance.
locations in the world! When an opportunity discuss a number of issues that Richard and Richard and John’s approach was to give
arose for the design team to employ this same John felt were shortcomings to the overall equal consideration to the decoration and the
skill set at Purnell’s restaurant, in their own experience of the restaurant. furnishings, also addressing how the existing
home city of Birmingham, it was indeed a Wilkinson Beven had a great first meeting spaces functioned, ultimately creating a radical
challenge to relish! with Chef and his team, speaking honestly new link between the bar, entrance space and
Chef Glynn Purnell had a particular concept and frankly about what wasn’t working with the dining room itself. By doing this, the design
that he wanted to explore for a corridor the current design. Glynn had always wanted team closed off the existing way out of the
space adjacent to the dining area. However, his Birmingham background to be part and dining room, turning an almost ‘abandoned’
Richard Wilkinson and John Beven, founders parcel of the look of the restaurant, so urban space into prime covers, also creating slot

52
windows into the kitchen to provide glimpses of compliment, “Purnell’s now has an interior that project sensibilities in terms of timescales,
the Purnell’s team at work. matches our aspirations for what we want to budgets and planning.
In the bar area, a section of the floor was replaced achieve in the kitchen – we’re now properly “We really like to get under a client’s skin,
with a zig-zag motif carpet, adding warmth, ready for a new era”. to see how they live or work,” says Richard;
colour, comfort and visual interest. Pre-dinner Having also worked for Chef Will Holland “Doing so not only delivers a project that’s
cocktails are taken in high-backed armchairs, or during his time at La Becasse, Ludlow, unique and personal, but also allows
on a plush, deep red sofa. Without completely Wilkinson Beven fervently enjoy these the team to concentrate on every detail,
losing the urban feel of the restaurant, Wilkinson restaurant projects! The company also ultimately creating spaces around the client
Beven introduced new levels of comfort, depth work on a range of interiors, such as luxury and for the client”.
of colour and a palette of warm tones to give a ski chalets, sumptuous coastal villas and
more sumptuous and dramatic atmosphere to city townhouses. Having backgrounds in Wilkinson Beven Design Ltd First Floor 321
the dining room – hopefully almost matching the commercial interior design, Richard and Bradford Street Birmingham B5 6ET
drama and sophistication of the food itself! John enjoy the challenges of working on T: 00 44 (0)121 622 7366
Richard and John were thrilled to work complex residential projects, where their richard@wilkinsonbeven.com
alongside Glynn, who paid them the huge experience helps them to apply commercial www.wilkinsonbeven.com

53
Now you know
where you stand
Winterhalter is the first catering
equipment manufacturer to
achieve carbon footprinting
with The Carbon Trust.
The carbon footprint calculator,
developed with The Carbon Trust,
tells you exactly what the lifetime
cost of a Winterhalter is likely to be,
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We are the only catering equipment
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If you’re interested in sustainability,
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For more information, visit:


www.winterhalter.co.uk
I n T h e K itc h e n : C l a u d e B o s i talks to Chef Magazine

Without question, one of the biggest – if not the biggest


expense a Chef faces when opening his or her own
restaurant is designing and fitting out the kitchen.

C
hef Magazine talks to Claude Bosi, of relationship of over 15 years together, what With the levels of cooking I was doing, I
Bibendum, and Steve Hobbs of Grande were your first impressions of each other? needed an appropriate kitchen.
Cuisine, about their professional Steve and Djamel Debousse made the
relationship over the years and the subsequent Claude - I first worked with Steve when journey to Ludlow to come and see me.
friendship and respect that has developed I redesigned my kitchen at Hibiscus, in They ate my food, and were interested in
over time. Ludlow. At the time all I had was an old six me as a chef and a person. They got to
The two of you now have a working burner and a couple of wonky solid tops. know me, and I believe this helped them

57
I n T h e K itc h e n : C l a u d e B o s i t a l k s t o C h e f M a g a z i n e

understand what I needed, and what I didn’t planning. I visited the Athanor factory Claude – I have no plans to move from
need. Hibiscus was small, I didn’t have a and saw my Maddox street stove being Bibendum. But this doesn’t mean that I
huge budget – far from it – yet they ensured built. Knowing how your equipment is have no further plans to open other sites! I
that every pound I spent went in the right manufactured, what materials are used, already have the Swan at Esher and a pub
area. who is making which component part with my brother in Ludlow. I will always
Steve - First and foremost, I remember helps you to engage with your stove, and continue to work with Steve and Djamel,
the meal we ate there. It was myself consider it as an important tool to your they are as efficient and reliable when
and Djamel. I just thought the meal was craft, rather than just a piece of kit. kitting out small kitchens as they are with
outstanding. Djamel, however – being monster kitchens like Bibendum.
the foodie that he is – identified, without Steve – Having a close, working relationship Another great thing about Steve, is that I
speaking to Claude, who his biggest definitely helps. I understand Claude as a know I can call him at any time if I have a
inspirations were. He clearly recognised the chef, I know how many people he is likely problem – I don’t go through to a call centre,
Ducasse and Passard influences. I felt like to have in each section. I know his cooking I get his mobile number and the man himself.
such a novice. techniques and abilities, and am confidently Which probably drives him nuts at times.
able to recommend the best set up for him.
You then went on the create the Kitchen We have definitely learnt from each other Steve – Grande Cuisine have a fantastic
at Maddox Street together, was this over the years. Claude has a very strong service side to the company, you would
straightforward? view on his kitchen organisation. I can give never be put through to a call centre. Its
you an example of how we have learnt important that we know our clients and
Claude – My Ludlow kitchen was a from each other. When designing the our clients know us. We have regular team
shoebox compared to the Maddox Street Maddox street suite, Djamel, Claude and meetings to discuss all our projects, clients
one. The building had never been a myself designed a water bath feature in and business developments. When a new
restaurant before, so we had to design the middle of the suite – it seemed a great project comes in, everyone is involved.
absolutely everything. That’s where Steve idea at the time. Retrospectively, though, Saying that, I also do understand that, if a
and Athanor and their expertise really shine it didn’t work. Claude realised it dictated chef has a problem at 11pm, then they want
– I didn’t know where the extraction should to the kitchen that those activities had to to talk to someone who will pick up the
be! I was so relieved to be able to hand all be carried out in just one fixed place. As a phone straight away! Fortunately, this doesn’t
the technical stuff over to Steve and felt trio – we learnt that it just wasn’t suitable. happen often, but, yes, they have my number!
total confidence in him and the kitchen I use this anecdote even today when
design team he put me in touch with. They discussing organisation of cook suite with
more than delivered. It was a fantastic prospective clients. Grande Cuisine can tailor to smaller sites,
working environment, and the stove was then?
like a Formula 1 racing car. But significantly Steve, where should a chef focus the
less expensive. expenditure when fitting out a kitchen? Steve – Of course! We get a lot of attention
Steve – I remember Maddox Street well. for working with big named chefs, but
The size and space of the kitchen dictated The cooking suite is fundamental to these are not the only kitchens we work in.
the size and style of cooking suite needed. all things that happen food wise in the Pubs, Bistros, Catering college kitchens,
It had to be a long, narrow cook suite, not kitchen. Get the design right and the Schools - these are all environments we fit
a traditional island suite. Which would kitchen will work, get it wrong and it can out. It’s not all about the Michelin guys and
have been straightforward, but Claude be a nightmare. Proper organisation is girls – however much we love them!
was adamant that he wanted an island essential. Investment in a new stove can
suite! So Athanor, had to produce quite a seem daunting. But you must consider Claude –Claude - I would definitely use
radical piece of kit. An island suite that that suites such as Athanor have a lifetime Grande Cuisine for future projects. They can
was extremely narrow. We worked closely of around 20 years and add value to your work to any budget. Trust me, I am a French
with Claude on this – it was a first for all of business. One other thing I always advise chef and don’t like spending money. As I am
us. Because of the logistics of the Maddox chefs to consider is this. You have to sure Steve can verify, I can be a real pain on
street building, we had to install the island consider three types of heat: budget, and I know I sometimes expect the
suite first, and the rest of the kitchen was Instant heat - (open gas, induction, radiant) impossible from him. Even then, he will try
built around it. It was a challenge with a lot turns on and off instantly. his hardest to help me out. Trust me, I am a
of pressure – but at that time one of the Accumulated heat – (traditional gas solid French chef and don’t like spending money,
leading kitchens. tops, electric solid tops, plaques) takes 15 as I am sure Steve can verify, I can be a real
mins to come to temperature, then holds pain on budget, and I know I sometimes
Have you both taken professional advice that temperature Warmth – space where expect the impossible from him. Even then,
from each other over the years? you need to rest products once cooked. we sit down discuss the objectives of what
I need to achieve from the cook suite and
Claude – Steve has taught me a lot And so to Bibendum. Does this mean it could we look to find a solution that is beneficial
about kitchen design, staff efficiency and have been the last time you work together? for us both.

58
I n T h e K itc h e n

ARTIS INTRODUCES "PURITY PEARLS"


Leading distributor of tableware, glassware and bar accessories, Artis, has added two new statement
plates, Purity Pearls, to its internationally acclaimed collection of porcelain tableware, Purity by Bauscher.

PURITY PEARLS
The essence of the Purity collection is that it combines design with
functionality. It is made from an innovative new material, ‘Noble China’.
This revolutionary new porcelain gives the collection a remarkable
delicacy.
Artis has added two new 31cm statement plates, Purity Pearls, to the
range. These are available in ‘Dark’ and ‘Light’ variations and are visually
stunning with an appealing textured finish. The pearls decoration is
printed on the porcelain with a special relief effect. The pearls design is
produced by a special relief-color and a double print. This effect creates a
textured feel to the plate.
Purity strength is achieved by the high firing temperature of 1400ºC,
giving an extreme glaze hardness and durability. This collection - at
the same time delicate but robust - with its 5-year professional glaze
warranty, is the perfect choice for daily use in fine dining hotels and
restaurants. The Purity collection has already become a design classic
and was nominated for the German Design Award 2016.
The Purity Pearls Statement plates each has a list price of £34.95 and
may be found, together with the full Purity collection, in the 2017 Artis
catalogue. For your own personal copy, call 020 8391 5544. Alternatively,
it is available to download online at www.artis-uk.com/downloads.

Winterhalter’s hybrid AquaOpt function optimises water quality


during extended wash break periods and can be
warewasher gives sparkling adapted to meet specific on-site requirements,
results and saves water ensuring consistent washing.

Winterhalter’s new undercounter Thanks to the integrated softener, the


warewashers, the UC Excellence iPlus, uses iPlus machines also feature VarioAqua.
a new hybrid technology that combines Allowing the user to select whether to
reverse osmosis (RO) and a water softener. use the RO system or not. So less critical
This offers a variety of benefits, including items can be washed using softened water
preventing blockages of the RO membrane, only, which minimises running costs, while
extending membrane life and ensuring more important ones can have the full RO
treatment, for sparkling results.
perfect wash results from first wash to last.
Both water treatment systems are fully
It is generally understood that a reverse osmosis
integrated within the warewasher, with the
system coupled with a top quality warewasher is
operating status displayed on the control
the way to get the best wash results. However in
an integral water softener. The water panel. The machine automatically selects
the past these systems have tended to be bulky, the appropriate treatment for certain
use lots of water and stretch beyond caterers’ treatment process is fully integrated into
the wash process to deliver flawless wash functions – for example, RO-treated water
budgets. The UC Excellence iPlus brings the to flush the boiler, but softened water to run
advantages of reverse osmosis to tight counter results on glassware, cutlery and dishes,
the self-cleaning programme. If there is an
areas because the system is fully integrated into without the need for extra polishing. This
issue with the RO, such as the membrane
the machine. saves staff time and speeds up turnaround needs attention, the warewasher switches to
of glasses and tableware. softened water only. Similarly, if the softener
It delivers a perfect combination of runs out of salt, it switches to RO only.
warewasher and reverse osmosis, With a built-in pre-filter with monitoring,
guaranteeing brilliant wash results every membrane flushing and Winterhalter’s AquaOpt The UC Excellence iPlus is available through
time, as it removes almost 100% of water system, which minimises running costs with Winterhalter dealers nationwide. List prices
impurities. Alongside its RO system is its choice of good, better and best results. This start at £7,085 for a UC-S version.

59
Ingredient: Beef mini joints

Versatility for an
innovative menu

60
Beef is very much back on the menu. Research commissioned by the Agriculture and
Horticulture Development Board (AHDB) shows beef performing well in full service
restaurants, particularly around main dishes, burgers and wraps. For the year to December 2016, it
was the fastest growing protein in terms of numbers of servings in restaurants, up 14,542 servings.
This means there is massive opportunity for beef dishes in the foodservice sector, if outlets
look for innovative new dishes and seek to maximise returns.

61
A
mong those to have come to the fore “It is this versatility that is really fuelling the Instead, their quick-to-cook nature due to
in the past couple of years is the mini popularity of mini joints. “ their smaller size allows them to be a great
joint. As the name suggests, these Often caterers can struggle to profitably ingredient in more dish based cuisines.”
are different cuts which provide smaller deliver a freshly cooked roast meal, “The eating landscape has never been more
joints which can be featured on a menu having to hold larger joints, pre-cook competitive, and we know that consumers are
as a roast-based option for customers, and re-heat which isn’t always the best looking for something new all the time, the
or dishes for two, with less potential for way to maintain top quality. The mini latest trend we are seeing is a desire for small,
waste at the end of service. joint can be cooked to order, sliced and sharing plates. According to the last focus on
To support food outlets, AHDB Beef & Lamb presented together with fresh vegetables foodservice report, 76 per cent of respondents
has developed a “3 in 1” concept guide for mini and potatoes. Equally, this roast can be already share food when they eat out, and
joints which shows how to add variety to a updated to a more contemporary style. 16 per cent would consider it. Chefs must
menu and avoid the costly ‘menu orphan’. The challenge has been taken up by show they can innovate their menus and with
“Mini joints are really versatile, easy to use in restaurants across the country along with high the trend for sharing is on the rise, and mini
a variety of cooking styles and are the perfect profile chefs like Nigel Haworth, who features joints offer countless ways to bring a sharing
solution for caterers,” said Hugh Judd, AHDB in AHDB Beef & Lamb’s online carvery guide dimension to menus and offer up fresh ideas
Senior Foodservice Manager. (via www.qsmbeefandlamb.co.uk). to consumers who are on the lookout for
“For example a rump mini joint can be a “Sharing meals are really on trend and family adventure and a new experience.”
sharing roast, cut into steaks or turned into style service adds real value,” added Hugh. Mini joints are highly trimmed, leaving
kebabs or thinly sliced for oriental style “These joints are great for a Sunday roast little plate waste but offering excellent
flavours, broths and noodles or simply the of course, but can also work as a midweek plate coverage. They can be cooked
ultimate steak sandwich. The list goes on roast as it is quick and cost effective to really simply and thereby offer a healthy
and on. Or you can create topside mini prepare, working in the same way as a steak option too, again with a variety of tasty
roast with mustard crust, piri piri topside or curry night. accompaniments. And there is no doubt
mini roast or topside mini roast with lemon, “The value of the mini joint really lies in its they are resonating with consumers.
honey and horseradish sauce from the versatility. These cuts don’t have to be limited
topside mini joint cut. to the typical meat and two veg options.

62 I n gredie n t : B e e f m i n i j o i n t s
Recipe By Wayne Smith, Mortimer ’s Restaurant , Ludlow

Great British Beef Week


C elebrating Great British Beef week, Wayne has created a Spring
time recipe in association with Aubrey Allen Butchers and L’Escargot
Anglais. Beautiful and tender topside beef, marinated overnight and
cooked very slowly for 24 hours, is matched brilliantly with the earthy,
succulent Herefordshire snails. The snails are of the Burgundy variety and
are the finest quality in texture and flavour, Richard supplies them shelled
and blanched, ready for whatever creations we want to make with them.
A seasonal garnish of local asparagus, baby broad beans and morel
mushrooms adds both depth and vibrancy to the dish.

Wayne Smith, Chef Patron of the renowned Mortimer’s restaurant in


Ludlow adds “This dish, though looking complicated, is very simple.
The best quality beef from one of the leading butchers to our trade,
Aubrey Allen (www.aubreyallen.co.uk) and the outstanding snails
from L’Escargot Anglais (www.lescargotanglais.com) are incredible
ingredients that work extremely well together:.

Mortimers Restaurant, 17 Corve Street, Ludlow 01584 872325 www.


mortimersludlow.co.uk

Pastrami spiced Beef & Braised Snails


serves 6 ●● 4 bay leaves Place the topside in the brine.
Snail ragout: Cure overnight in the fridge.
Cooking time: ●● 500gm snails Set up water bath. Turn temperature to 59ºC
overnight brine, 24hours sous vide ●● §4 tbsp salted butter (138ºF).
●● 100gm onion diced Add topside into a 4lt size vacuum bag with
INGREDIENTS ●● 100gm carrots diced 200ml of brine, remove air.
●● 3-6lb Topside Beef ●● 100gm celery diced Cook sous vide for 24hours.
●● 1 clove garlic chopped Check in every few hours to make sure
Brine ingredients: ●● 200ml dry white wine topside is submerged. Add water to bath if
●● 1L Hot water ●● 300ml beef stock needed.
●● 1L Ice ●● salt and pepper
●● 100g Pink Salt Braised snails
●● 20g Caraway Seeds Method: Wash snails with cold water and leave to dry.
●● 10g Dill Seeds Melt butter in a pan.
●● 50g Coriander Seeds Topside Add chopped vegetables to the pan and fry
●● 20g Black Pepper In a large bowl mix the hot water and all of until softening begins.
●● 10g Allspice Berries the brine seasonings together. Add snails, fry for a very short time
●● 5g Clove Once evenly incorporated add ice (to cool Add white wine, pour on the beef stock.
●● 4g Lapsang Souchong Tea down). Leave to simmer on a medium heat for 15
minutes

L’escargot Anglais Having enjoyed knowledge gained with over 25 years experience in snail propagation
(heliculture) as Credenhill Snail Farm we now supply the finest naturally sourced
Burgundy snails (Helix pomatia), the true Escargot. Located in Herefordshire our snails
are freshly cooked by us and sold either chilled or frozen according to your requirements.
We cook our snails to enhance their rich delicious flavour in a carefully prepared herb
stock so they are ready to eat or ready for further cooking according to your preferences
http://www.lescargotanglais.com/index.html
C atering anywhere but a restaurant kitchen

The French Chef at Home


Yves Quemerais

64
Yves Quemerais is a private chef classically trained under acclaimed
chef Alain Ducasse. Knowing Yorkshire people appreciate their food just
as much as the French, Yves moved to Yorkshire with his family in 2012 to set up
his private chef business French Chef at Home.

H
e offers bespoke gourmet dining love with Yorkshire as a school girl when with the French is their love of good food,
for both private catering and for on an exchange visit to her pen pal in leafy “There are three main reasons why we
larger events across North Yorkshire, and affluent Harrogate, North Yorkshire. The moved to Yorkshire - the food (Yorkshire
Harrogate, Leeds and York. newly married Quemerais’ even spent their takes this very seriously), the countryside
honeymoon in the town. and the people,” says Yves. “The Tour
The French Chef at Home, Yves Quemerais Says Yves: “We stayed in a beautiful B&B de France in Yorkshire generated lots of
is originally from Paris but moved with his overlooking the Stray, the green parkland that interest in all things French. I knew there
family to the UK in 2012 – without speaking a is part of the crown estate and surrounds the was an appetite for dining out in Yorkshire.
word of English or even having a job. town. We spent New Year’s Eve dancing in Harrogate alone has a vast choice of more
After several years working as a head chef the Royal Hall and enjoyed afternoon tea in than 300 independent local restaurants
at restaurants in Paris and, more latterly, Betty’s. From then on, we were hooked. We and cafes, as well as the familiar high
as a private chef in corporate board rooms love everything about Yorkshire and when we street names. And while the region has
across Paris, by 2012 he was ready for a new decided we were ready for our next move, it had six Michelin starred restaurants, Harrogate
challenge and for a lifestyle that offered to be the big one – to relocate our whole family didn’t have my unique offer of fine dining in
more of a work/life balance. and set up our own business in Yorkshire.” the comfort of your home.”  
It was Anne, Yves’ anglophile wife who Yves knew from his visits to Yorkshire that Classically trained under acclaimed chef Alain
introduced him to Yorkshire. Anne fell in one thing Yorkshire people have in common Ducasse, Yves established his business The

65
French Chef at Home to create authentic and a restaurant would have – rent, rates and an old AGA and a galley kitchen. I always
bespoke French cuisine at people’s homes for salaries for instance – which makes a big work collaboratively with clients to decide
special occasions, corporate events or just a difference to the charges I have to pass onto on the menu and once the choice had been
luxury night in. He also offers tutorials in the my clients. I can closely control my costs. made, they agreed to get their two two-
homes of aspiring chefs. It’s not all plain sailing though. Cooking in a ring camping stove out of storage to better
Says Yves: “I love to create dishes combining client’s own kitchen can have disadvantages. facilitate the meal. Because I knew the
the traditional gourmet flavours of France “One unknown is the quality of the limitations of the kitchen I was able to plan
with seasonal fresh Yorkshire produce. All of equipment as this can vary considerably, – and prep – ahead and everything
the ingredients I use are locally sourced and as does its efficacy. I now know to assume was perfect.”
produced by farmers who are passionate nothing and to always ask about kitchen Yves circumvents any equipment shortcomings
about what they do. I use organic products facilities. Our country location means that by doing much of the preparation in his
wherever possible. I often use ingredients many clients have AGAs of varying antiquity; own kitchen at home and takes all his own
taken from my own garden as well as other clients are holidaying in the region equipment – from knives to plates and
stocking up on essentials from the many and don’t ‘know’ the kitchen and sometimes even, where required, a silver service waiter.
farm shops around the county. domestic kitchens are just very small Everything in fact except the oven.
Choosing to be a private chef, rather than spaces to work in when you are used to a Another issue a restaurant based chef
basing himself in one of the county’s award- professional kitchen. doesn’t have to worry about is simply finding
winning restaurants was simple, says Yves. “On one memorable occasion, an elderly the client’s home in the first place.
“A major benefit of working in this way is couple booked me for a bespoke dinner for Says Yves: “Being based in rural North
that I don’t have the regular overheads that two, after forewarning me that they had Yorkshire means that two thirds of my clients

66 C a teri n g a n yw h ere b u t a rest a u r a n t kitc h e n


67
own large houses, often situated in quite booking and on one occasion, a client got invited his wife and children to come too.
remote locations where even my SatNav so drunk over the course of the dinner that Says Yves: “It was a generous thought but
doesn’t dare to travel. Just finding the client’s she neglected to pay until later. This is now we didn’t take her up on it, so she sent me
home in an unfamiliar area - sometimes in remedied and part payment is made on home with Christmas presents for everyone
the wet and dark, feeling a bit stressed and booking, with the balance due one week instead.”
with incomplete English - can be an issue. before the event. While Yves has enjoyed the usual tips, as well
Obstacles, such as one recently where a Yves cooks for everything from shooting as bottles of wine of excellent vintage, the
bridge was closed for repair, can be a real parties requiring comforting and warming most unusual he has received to date was an
problem. Luckily in that case I was able to food after a day on the North Yorkshire Moors invitation to be a guest with a client’s family
ask directions from a parked-up police car.” to afternoon teas for exclusive tête-à-têtes. at their house in France for the daughter’s
Yves major business investment has been Family christenings, luxurious hen parties birthday. Says Yves: “Being a private chef is a
to buy a vehicle large enough to transport a and indulgent dinners for two for some of the very personal service and you just don’t make
large fridge and all his equipment. Says Yves: region’s top footballers are also some of the those sorts of relationships so quickly in a
“We’ve had the car sign-written and, by virtue events Yves has cooked for. restaurant.”
of being very distinctive, it’s also had the Says Yves: “I’ve been lucky enough to meet So, having achieved his vision of setting up
benefit of acting as a billboard to advertise some delightful people and characters – a successful business, does Yves have any
our services when we are out and about.” some of whom I now count as friends.” remaining dreams he’d like to achieve?
In the early days of the business, Yves says One lovely repeat customer felt so guilty at Says Yves: “My long-held ambition is to cook
he was a little naïve. For instance, initially booking Yves to cook Christmas lunch and for Yorkshire’s own Dame Judi Dench. I would
he didn’t insist on payment before taking a taking him away from his family that she love to make that happen.”

68 C a teri n g a n yw h ere b u t a rest a u r a n t kitc h e n


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Recipe by Michael Laiskonis

Coconut Cream Cheese Parfait

70
Meet the Author
Chef Michael Laiskonis
M ichael Laiskonis was named Creative Director of New York City’s Institute of Culinary
Education in 2012. Previously Executive Pastry Chef  “Le Bernardin” for eight years, his
pastry philosophy manifests itself in a style of desserts that balance art and science, and
contemporary ideas with classic fundamentals. Awarded Outstanding Pastry Chef in 2007
by the James Beard Foundation, his work helped the restaurant maintain three stars from the
esteemed Michelin Guide and four stars from the New York Times. In his five years tenure as
Pastry Chef at Tribute in Detroit, Pastry Art and Design twice named him one of the “10 Best
Pastry Chefs in America”. In 2014, the International Association of Culinary Professionals tapped
him as its ‘Culinary Professional of the Year’. And during all these years, Chef M. Laiskonis has
been a loyal user and great ambassador of the “Les Vergers Boiron” brand ..!

 Ingredients Strawberry Coulant attachment and thoroughly combine.


●● 6 sheets gelatin  Ingredients Slowly add the vegetable oil.
●● 100g water, cold ●● 2 sheets gelatin, hydrated 2. Combine the buttermilk, vinegar, and
●● 225g sucrose ●● 400g Boiron Strawberry Purée vanilla; separately, combine and sift
●● 1.5g fine sea salt ●● 20g invert sugar the dry ingredients. Add the liquid and
●● 200g unsalted butter, softened   dry ingredients to the egg mixture in
●● 450g cream cheese, softened Method alternating portions. Add the red coloring.
●● 100g crème fraiche 1. Combine purée and invert sugar in a sauce 3. Transfer the batter to a prepared half
●● 160g Boiron Coconut Purée pan. Bring to a simmer. sheet pan and bake at 160°C/320°F for 15
●● 20g Boiron Kalamansi Purée 2. Whisk in gelatin. Drop into small silicon minutes or until thoroughly baked.
●● 520g heavy cream (35% fat) hemisphere molds and freeze. 4. Allow to cool and cut into discs that
  correspond to the base of the silicon
Method Red Velvet Sponge ‘stone’ mold. Remaining scraps may be
1. Hydrate the gelatin in full measurement of Ingredients dried and used as garnish.
water. Gently heat to dissolve and reserve. ●● 217g sucrose   
2. In a mixer bowl, combine the sucrose, salt, ●● 75g whole eggs White Chocolate Spray
and butter, creaming the mixture well. ●● 223g vegetable oil  Ingredients
Slowly add the cream cheese, occasionally ●● 170g buttermilk ●● 250g white chocolate, melted
scraping down the sides of the bowl. ●● 3g white vinegar ●● 250g cocoa butter, melted
Follow with the addition of the crème ●● 2g vanilla extract ●● Red color (fat soluble)
fraiche, purées, and dissolved gelatin. ●● 250g all-purpose flour
3. Fold in whipped cream and portion into ●● 4g baking soda  Method
desired molds or forms (as pictured, ●● 3g salt 1. Thoroughly combine white chocolate
medium silicon ‘stone’ molds). ●● 3g cocoa powder and cocoa butter and load into sprayer
4. Insert frozen Strawberry Coulant into ●● 1-2g red color (as desired) according to manufacturer’s instructions.
each mold. Insert a disc of the red velvet 2. Apply to the unmolded and still frozen
sponge. Freeze.  Method parfaits; if desired, add a second accent
  1. Place the sucrose and whole eggs in the layer with a light spray with red-colored
  bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip spraying chocolate.

71
Recipe by Tra d i t i o n G o u r m a n d e m e m b e r s

MILLEFEUILLE DE FRUITS

1 36 x 36 cm tray Half Water, Half Citric Acid - the day before, mix Marshmallow Raspberry 100% -
caster sugar with a little of acid solution then Hibiscus Flower
Mango Fruit Paste 100% leave to dry in a prover overnight before mixing ●● Raspberry Purée 100% Les vergers
●● Mango Purée 100% Les vergers Boiron it with a blender. Boiron - 190 g
- 500 g ●● Invert Sugar N°1 - 95 g
●● Apple Juice - 250 g Boil up the Mango purée and the Apple Juice. ●● Caster Sugar - 285 g
●● Sugar / Yellow Pectin - 75 / 15 g Add (sprinkling) the mix Sugar / Yellow Pectin ●● Gelatin powder - 19 g
●● Caster Sugar - 500 g and stir until boiling. ●● Water (to hydrate the Gelatin) - 43 g
●● Glucose - 145 g Add the mix Caster Sugar and Glucose. ●● Invert Sugar N°2 - 119 g
●● Acid solution* - 15 g Cook the mix at 107°C or 75° Brix and then add ●● Acid Solution* - 2,5 g
the acid solution. ●● Hibiscus Extract (drops) - 2
Pour the Mix on the tray with Rubber Mat in it.

72
Cook the Raspberry purée, the invert sugar N°1, Assembly and Details Tradition Gourmande
the caster sugar at 110°C. When the marshmallow starts to stretch (about “I want to learn, I share my knowledge”
Add the hydrated Gelatin. 45 mins waiting time), remove from tray. Then
In a Cake Mixer, place the invert Sugar N°2 and cut in the middle and top over each other the The aim of the association Tradition
then pour the mix on top of the inverted Sugar two parts. Gourmande is to bring together established
N°2. The next day, cut in dice (22mm x 22mm) and pastry chefs, recognized as authoritative in
Beat on the third speed. Stop when the mass is roll the cubes in an acid caster sugar* (partially their art. The activity of Pâtissier may include
still soft. Add the acid solution and the 2 drops or whole). activities of Chocolatier, Confiseur, or Glacier,
of Hibiscus. possibly extended by activities of Traiteur or
Pour on top of the Mango Fruit Paste. Boulanger.

73
Ga n ac h e

High-End Hotels
Renew Interest in High Tea
After High Noon

TAIPEI, Taiwan — All the tea in China isn’t necessarily drunk in China. Nor is all
the high tea consumed in England. This spring, hotels from Bangkok to Tokyo
are reaching for new heights with new high tea specials that drink in great views, exalt
chocolate, invoke gay Paree and look stunning in lacquer.
74
“A
s high-falutin’ and old-fashioned as high tea sounds, it’s still a
major part of our day, every day,” said Sammy Carolus, general
manager of the Grand Hyatt Taipei. “People used to talk about
the power lunch. Today we’re talking about the power tea. Increasingly
it’s how guests are beginning to explore a particular destination’s
culinary appeal.”
 
In Taipei, the deliciously over-the-top afternoon tea buffet takes place
at the Grand Hyatt Taipei’s Café restaurant. Designed to resemble a
gourmet marketplace, this is possibly the most high-powered high tea
experience in Asia, with more than 10 live cooking stations, 120 different
international delicacies, and 280 seats for guests. Highlights include a
sushi and seafood bar, a salad bar, a fresh juice bar, Chinese, Indian as
well as Western fare, and a dessert station filled with cheese, all-you-
can-eat cakes and pastries, and a matcha chocolate fountain to top it off.
Served daily from 3 to 5 p.m. USD 30++ per person.
 
In Tokyo, the ever-popular high tea service at Palace Lounge, Palace
Hotel Tokyo’s cozy bar and restaurant, marries seasonal selections
with premium teas, specialty coffees, and champagne. With sweeping
views of the surrounding Imperial Palace gardens and moat, this high
tea adds a seasonal twist with pastries and sweets inspired by spring.
Treats featured in the spring tea set include mini bacon and onion quiche,
Japanese rice balls with green leaves, and freshly baked scones — all
artfully presented in an elegant, three-tiered jyubako lacquered box.
Available until May 31. JPY 4,000 (USD 36) per person, JPY 5,800 (USD
52) with a glass of champagne.
 
In Bangkok, and in particular at Le Macaron, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit’s
gourmet, Parisian-style cafe, a taste of afternoon tea tradition is served
up daily from 2 to 5 p.m. Treats include homemade French pâtisserie
— from green teacakes to scones with jam and vanilla whipped cream —
and all manner of teas. The Classic Afternoon Tea costs USD 27, while the
decadent Champagne Afternoon Tea is priced at USD 46, including tax
and service charges.
 
In Hanoi, the high tea takes place at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi’s
recently revamped Le Club, a Roaring Twenties speakeasy-style bar, built
on top of a wartime air-raid shelter. Here guests can choose between a
traditional afternoon tea, a delectable three-tiered spread of re-invented
French classics, or a lavish chocolate buffet featuring pralines, ganache,
mille-feuille pastries, and a chocolate fountain — while listening to the
sweet sounds of live jazz. Indulge in a High Tea for VN460++ (USD 20)
or the signature Chocolate Library for VND595++ (USD 26).
 
On Indonesia’s Bintan Island near Singapore, The Sanchaya serves
up afternoon tea on a veranda overlooking powder white sands and
aquamarine waters dotted with picturesque islands. Savory treats from
the Classic English, Southeast Asian and Artisanal-themed afternoon
teas include roasted beef with beetroot and horseradish relish, ‘tahu isi’
stuffed local tofu with mixed vegetables, and lobster ceviche on crostini al fresco setting at The Galle Face Hotel, traditional English afternoon
respectively, topped off with sweets such as fresh berries with vanilla tea is underscored by fine Ceylon teas. Finger sandwiches, smoked
custard, fried ice cream in bread and spring roll skin and creamy dragon salmon on rye and savory pastries are followed by dainty Nuwara Eliya
fruit tartlet. Anchored by The Sanchaya’s customized Ronnefeldt tea strawberry shortbread, passion fruit and date cake, opera slice and
range, afternoon tea for two costs USD 46++.   papaya, lime and ginger tart desserts. The freshly baked scones stake a
And in Colombo, afternoon tea at one of the oldest hotels east of the claim to Sri Lanka’s best, and are served with homemade jams and real
Suez pays homage to the Ceylonese past. Amid the Verandah’s colonial clotted cream. USD10++ per person.

75
F ront of H ouse by Jean Smullen wine correspondent

RIBERA DEL DUERO


where Spain’s most iconic
wines are produced

T
he region of Ribera del Duero is roughly two hours north of hammered home in practical terms. Agustin Alonso Gonzalez,
Madrid by car and has 22,040 ha of vineyards spread between Technical Director with the region’s Consejo Regulador summed up the
four regional provinces, Burgos, Segovia, Soria and Valladolid. regions climate in a short succinct sentence “9 months of winter, three
months of hell” .
Spain’s most iconic wine is produced here. First produced in 1915, by
a Basque winemaker, Domingo Garramiola Txomin, the wine won It was early Spring and the vines were just starting to bud, the
international acclaim for its quality at the Barcelona World Fair in 1922 rigours of the weather which are a constant here, have a huge
and afterwards for most of the 20th century Vega Sicilia became impact on the quality of the grapes. Those growing the vine here on
Spain’s most expensive and sought after wine. an annual basis have to contend with sudden storms, dismal winds,
frost, as well as a short intense summer heat with temperatures
A visit to Ribera del Duero in March 2017 threw four seasons in three regularly reaching 35-40 degrees. Not for the faint hearted!
days at us. With variations ranging from 25 degrees of warm sunshine However, nature also plays a part in creating vines of superb quality,
to snow, hailstones, rain and wind, the climatic influence here was grown on limestone and chalk with layers of clay and sand. The

76
Wine has been produced in Ribero del Duero since Roman times. In the 11th and 12th
century, French Cistercian monks established vineyards and wineries in the region.
The creation of the Kingdom of Castile in the 11th century helped to create a demand for their
wines and winemaking evolved and prospered. By the 15th century, the two main kingdoms of
Castile and Aragon merged when Queen Isabella of Castile married King Ferdinand II of Aragon to
create the Kingdom of Spain. This concentration of power didn’t work to the region’s advantage
however, because the power subsequently moved south to Madrid and the region became
unknown and under developed in wine terms, until the 20th century.

great plateau of the Iberian Penisula lies between approximately vines in the region are over 100 years old 37.11% are 25 year old vines
760 to 850 metres (2500 to 2800 feet) above sea level, with some and 60% are 10 year old vines.
vineyards as high as 945 metres ( 3,100 feet).
According to the DO regulations, red wines must be made from at least
There is a great diversity of soils in the region, soils closest to the river 75% of the key grape red variety, Tinto del Pais, a clone of Tempranillo
tend to be alluvial reddish sand and reddish clay, which retains heat also known as Tinto Fino. 25% of the blend can be made up of
in the evening producing more full bodied wines. On the slopes and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec.
at higher elevation, soils are made up of alternating layers of marl,
gypsum and limestone, creating elegant wines with more acidity. Many Albillo (a white grape variety also known locally as Pardina), can be
of the best vineyards are on limestone high altitude sites. added to make up to 5% of the blend. White wines may not be made
under the Ribero del Duero DO although Albillo, the only white grape
Yields in the region are relatively low, which means it is a good region grown in Ribera del Duero, is used to make white wines outside the
for high quality wines. 40% of all plantings are old vines. 2.19% of the classification.  

77
In Ribera del Duero many of the producers prefer to use French oak to river and the vines have a southern orientation. Bodegas Cepa 21 was
create the regions signature style. Their aim is to create a more vibrant, created by the Moro family as a cutting edge winery. Most of the Cepa
fruit-forward style of wine with a leaner finish and one that is not as 21 vineyards have a northern orientation and the vineyards are all about
influenced by wood ageing, more typical in other Spanish DO’s. altitude. The wines in the range are very modern. The 2014 Hito is
made from vines grown on stone soil in the low plains. Quote smoky
Conde de San Cristobal on the nose it was a very elegant, lighter in style, with lots of acidity.
The winery, situated near Penafiel on the Pago de Valdestremo Estate, Made from 100% Tempranillo this was a superb example of modern
is owned by the Grupo Vinicola Marques de Vargas who also have Ribera winemaking. The 2011 Malabrigo was another star, from
estates in Rioja an Rias Biaxas. Vines have been grown here since the another good vintage in Ribera, the wine was ripe and spicy with lots of
16th century and were served in the court of Philip II in Valladolid. The firm tannin but with tons of fruit. Much more of a blockbuster, this wine
estate is approximately 80 ha and has vineyards planted in the regions has enormous potential and is more modern in style.
highest point, approx. 2,700 ft above sea level. In 2016 during the
Obama’s historic visit to Cuba, Michelle Obama chose to drink the 2013 The winery at Cepa 21 also features a Michelin starred restaurant. The
Conte de San Cristobal at a family dinner in a restaurant in Havana . chef, Alberto Sol was named as “best chef of Castille & Leon” in 2014
The current vintage the 2014 Conde de San Cristobal is made from by the Academia Castellana y Leonesa de Gastronomia y Alimentacion.
86% Tinta Fina, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot. This is In 2017, the Cepa 21 Restaurant was acknowledged by the Repsol Guide
quite a perfumed floral wine, the unique growing conditions typically as one of the best in the region. The tasting menu featured 10 unique
produce softer wines with notes of black plums, cherries and liquorice. traditional regional dishes, all produced with a modern twist and
The tannins in the 2014 vintage were softer and the floral character perfectly matched with older vintages of the Cepa 21 wine range. Cepa
more pronounced. 2013 was a tough vintage in Ribera, 2014 was much 21 is distributed in the UK by C&D Wines www.canddwines.co.uk
better. Drier and warmer it produced wines that were much softer and
easier to drink. Conde de San Cristobal wines are available in the UK Bodegas Valduero
through Majestic Commerical www.majesticcommercial.co.uk Yolanda Valduero is a force of nature, the first woman in Ribero del
Duero to create her own winery, she came to wine making with no
Cepa 21 previous knowledge of wine. Today, she is the only female member
The Moro family winery Bodega Emilio Moro is based in Pesquera del of the Ribera del Duero Consejo Regulador. Born in Madrid, Yolanda
Duero. It was founded in 1937. Their vineyards are located near the did not come from a farming background, much less a wine one.

The Home of World-Class Sparkling Wines


Open 7 days a week for tastings and sales.
Tours available, book at www.ridgeview.co.uk or call 01444 242040
Aged 15 at her convent school she told the nuns she was going to be (Tempranillo). The first Pingus was made by Peter in 1995 in a cellar
an agro-engineer and they laughed. Spurred on she left school and next door to Vega Sicila. He worked all day at Monasterio and then
persuaded her father to lease some land in the region for her. Back pulled all nighters to make his own wine.
then, 80% of the wine produced here was Rose and the land was
used more for sheep farming. Starting in 1984, Yolanda followed her After the first Pingus was bottled, this limited production wine made
dream, today 30 odd years later there is a state of the art winery and history when in 1998 Robert Parker said of it, “one of the greates young
visitors centre. Her wines are Medal winners and she now has 186 ha red wines I have ever tasted”. Today Peter makes his wines in his small
of Tinto Fino in production, 30ha of which are very old vines. Yolanda cellar on the banks of the Duero river. A hidden cellar discovered in 1830
also makes a superb white wine from Albillo, though not a DO wine, is one of the oldest in the region and may date back to the 12th century.
it is absolutely world class. Her 2016 Garcia Viadero Albillo has lots In the winery the 15 modern stainless steel fermentation tanks sit
of acidity and tons of ripe citrus fruit, this wine goes on for ever! If a beside the cement tanks and 5,000 liter foudre all of which Peter uses
white wine like this can be made from this grape it seems a shame it is to vinify his wines. As well as Pingus there is Flor de Pingus and his
not encouraged. Other producers in the region tend to dismiss Albillo new wine PSI. We tasted the 2015 & 2016 PSI, the 2015 & 2016 Flor
as nothing more than a blending white grape, Yolanda Valduero has de Pingus and the 2015 & 2016 Pingus, all were truly outstanding and
shown that this native grape can create a world class wine. reflect the cult status of his wines. The wines are available in the UK
through Berry Bros & Rudd.
Yolanda’s production is relatively limited, for example she only
produces 200,000 bottles of Crianza annually. Her 2011 vintage Bodega Felix Callejo
was voted best wine in Spain by the Guia Gourmet Guide. The 2014 The Callejo family have a long tradition of working in the wine world.
Valduero Crianza was very perfumed on the nose, the tannin The grandfather, Faustino, and the father, Felix, owned vineyards and
was quite firm but the wine was very fruit forward and had a lovely were also “corredores de vino”, or local wine brokers. Today the third
balanced acidity. The 2011 Valduero Reserva won a Gold Medal at generation of the family making wine is José Felix Callejo who has
Berlin and at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles. This has 30 months worked in many different regions around the world including in Chile
in barrel and 18 months in bottle. This is a classic Reserva style from with Torres and in France at Chateau Pétrus.
Ribera del Duero with lots of fresh acidity. The acidity is the key to her
style of winemaking and the wine is very fresh with lots of restrained The Callejo vineyards are located in Sotillo de la Ribera, a village in the
fruit. This is a show stopper wine and one that is very food focussed. province of Burgos. The winery is very much a family affair, Noelia and
Bodega Valduero is distributed in the UK by Robb Wines Cristina the sisters of José Felix are involved both on the winemaking
www.robbwines.co.uk and sales side of the business. The 2014 Majuelos de Callejo is made
from 100% Tempranillo aged for 18 months in French oak. It has lots
Pingus of concentrated fruit on the nose with hints of smoke and mocha. The
The rock star wine of the region today is Pingus and it really needs no wine is still very young but that floral character, so typical of the region
introduction. Peter Sisseck, born in Denmark, was en route to California show through. The wines are distributed in the UK by ABFW
to work for Paul Draper and made a pit stop in Ribero in 1990 to work https://abfw.co.uk
on a new project at Hacienda Monasterio. 27 years later he is still in
Ribera making, what is today considered the region’s most iconic For more information about wines from the Ribera del Duero region
wine. His concept is to produce the purest expression of Tinta Fina www.riberadelduero.es

79
NEWS

COYA opens second site for London  Expect seasonal menus full of Italian staples  Restaurant Hywel Jones sits in the
from Francesco’s homeland: Calamari; Spaghetti ballroom of the house and has been
with anchovies and broccoletti; Conchiglioni with refurbished in keeping with the room’s
ricotta and herbs; and Calabrese with ‘nduja and classical style.
chilli straight from the wood-fired oven.  
  The Vineyard Kitchen opens at
Bourgee expands in the UK Sharham, South Devon

World leading Latin American restaurant


group, COYA, has launched its second
London site located in Bank. In the heart of
the City, the 4,500 sq ft space will become
a day-to-night venue incorporating
a buzzing Latin American bar and a
contemporary Peruvian restaurant.
COYA Angel Court showcases a menu
of seasonal COYA dishes overseen by
Executive Chef Sanjay Dwivedi. The chef
combines traditional elements of Peruvian
cuisine with Modern European cooking
techniques and Asian influences to create
COYA’s naturally light and healthy dishes.
  With the success of the brands The Sharpham Vineyard in South Devon
Colourful destination bar, the Pisco Lounge, first two venues in Southend-On- has launched The Vineyard Kitchen.
highlights an impressive collection of fine Sea and Chelmsford, Steak and Lobster Chef Chris Sherville will use local meat,
and rare wines and spirits, a comprehensive restaurant Bourgee is set to continue its fish and shellfish including the award-
Pisco library, and a menu map of cocktails plans to roll out its ‘affordable luxury’ winning wine and cheese produced on the
to take guests on a journey to discover Latin concept across the UK. 1,000-year-old farm.
American flavours. Signatures include the  Led by British Master Chef and Director of  
South American classic, The Pisco Sour, Bourgee, Mark Baumann, the group has Chris worked in the arts and fashion for
and a COYA favourite, the Chilli Margarita, announced its third opening in the historic Sotheby’s, Versace and Harvey Nichols
both given a secret twist exclusive to COYA market town of Bury St. Edmunds. before deciding to follow his passion and
Angel Court. Adjacent to the Pisco Lounge is   retrained as a chef at Leith’s Cookery
a DJ booth, welcoming international talent Señor Ceviche to open on School. The alfresco Vineyard Kitchen
throughout the year. Charlotte Street overlooks fields and wooded slopes above
  The lively Peruvian restaurant, Señor Ceviche the River Dart, two miles from the ancient
Within the restaurant, an intricately currently located in Carnaby, is set to launch market town of Totnes.
designed and hand carved six seater a second site on Fitzrovia’s Charlotte Street,  
‘Rum Round Table’ is unique to COYA introducing an exclusive brunch offering and Brewpub group Brewhouse &
Angel Court and available for guests to an underground pisco bar. Kitchen expands to Bournemouth
enjoy a bottle of fine rum throughout   Brewhouse & Kitchen has added to its
their visit. For a more exclusive lunch or New dishes for the site include Barbecued nationwide portfolio of brewpubs with
dinner option, two private dining rooms scallops with aji amarillo and pisco butter; the launch of Brewhouse & Kitchen
are available to reserve, with the larger Yellowfin tuna with yuzu tigers milk, wasabi Bournemouth.
seating up to 18 guests and its own private and miso; and Slow-cooked short rib with aji  
terrace launching this summer. panca and pickled garlic anticucho sauce. Boasting its own microbrewery, the site’s
    dedicated brewer will be responsible for
Francesco Mazzei’s opens Radici in Restaurant Hywel Jones by producing a selection of the brewpub’s
Islington Lucknam Park now open own beers to be available alongside an
Located in London’s Islington, Radici is an Lucknam Park’s Michelin-star restaurant has impressive list of the best craft beers sourced
authentic Italian trattoria reflecting the re-launched with a new selection of three from across the world. A selection of dishes
Calabrian and southern Italian cuisine of eight-course tasting menus, in addition to a created using beer as a key ingredient forms
Francesco Mazzei’s heritage. three-course à la carte menu. part of a brand-new food menu.
Keep haddock on the menu.
There are plenty more fish in our seas.
Haddock’s been in the news recently. But, thanks to Norway’s scientifically managed
fisheries, haddock stocks remain abundant in Norway’s cold, clear waters. Which means
there’s every reason to keep sustainable Norwegian haddock on the menu.

Talk to your seafood supplier or visit seafoodfromnorway.co.uk

Norway’s North
East Arctic haddock
stocks are MSC
certified as sustainable

seafoodfromnorway.co.uk @norwayseafood seafoodfromnorway