Revised 11/29/2004

Spray Tech Systems, Inc.

Powder Cure Oven
Installation Manual

Spray Tech Systems, Inc.

4631 NW 3rd Street Oklahoma City, OK 73127
405-948-8696 / 800-777-7729 Fax: 405-948-8160

Install001-ManualCover.ppp
 SPRAY TECH SYSTEMS, INC.
Oven Installation Index

1 Overview
2 Tools
3 Oven Building Basics
4 Component Identification
5 Layout
6 Re-Circulating Fan
7 Fan Frame & Floor Channel
8 Oven Frame, Door frame, & Air Channel
9 Burner Assembly
10 Oven Walls
11 Roof Panels
12 Doors
13 Flashing
14 Control Panel & Thermocouple Jack Panel
15 High Temp Thermocouple
16 Air Flow Switch (AFS-2)
17 Exhaust Blower & Air Flow Switch (AFS-1)
18 Conduit and Wiring to Components
19 Interior Sheet Metal and Ducting
20 System Start-Up

Spray Tech Systems, Inc.

4631 NW 3rd Street
Oklahoma City, OK 73127
1.800.777.7729

Install002-Index.ppp
 Section 1 - Overview

Overview of Powder Cure Oven

Install01-Overview.ppp Pg:1
 Section 1 - Overview

1. Overview
The oven installation index is listed to make the most efficient use of time. For instance,
mounting the burner is listed after the burner box is completed so the plumber can run
the gas pipe while the rest of the oven is assembled.

Two people can build an oven but it is much easier with three (four for larger ovens).
Please read all the assembly instructions before starting. Getting started right can make all
the difference in how smoothly the installation goes.
Be sure your electrician sees the sections that have components that require wiring.
I have made notes about important details and marked them as “Important Note” throughout
these instructions. Please pay special attention to these.
You should schedule ahead to have us come to fire the oven, you must have someone familiar
with industrial burners on-site when the oven is ready to fire.

Our powder coating cure ovens are built of 4” thick, tongue and groove insulated oven panels.
We add an interior structure to support the re-circulating blower, a frame for the fan and burner
box, structure to attach the wall and roof panels, and a channel for air distribution.

Air is drawn through the oven into the burner box, past the burner, through the re-circulating
blower, and into the air distribution channel in the top of the oven. The hot air comes out
through a series of slots in the top of the oven. These slots are sized to provide even airflow
through the oven.
The oven also includes an exhaust fan that exhausts any smoke, draws the right amount of
fresh air into the oven through the fresh air vent and maintains a slight negative pressure
inside the oven.

The oven control system incorporates safety controls to verify the blowers are operating, the
door is closed, and that the temperature in the oven does not exceed the design limits.

The burner control system is a full modulating type and incorporates safety features to assure
safe operation.

In operation, the control box sends a signal to the burner control to initialize the burner when
all safety circuits have been verified. When the burner establishes a pilot flame and the safety
circuits in the burner control are proved, the main flame will light. When the control box
receives the signal that the main flame is established, it sends a signal to the modulating gas
valve to adjust the flame as needed to reach and maintain the set temperature. The oven
timer starts when the oven temperature reaches the set point and times down until the cycle is
completed. The operator can store 15 “recipes” for cure cycles.

Important Note: All dimensions are in Feet, Inches, and fractions of an inch. We have
discovered that kids are not being taught how to read a ruler in school any more. If you have
young person helping you, please take time to give them a lesson in how to read a ruler.

Install01-Overview.ppp Pg:2
 Section 2 - Tools

Tools Needed to Build the Powder Cure Oven

This is a list of tools we suggest you have on hand.

Some of these are “must have” and some just make things a lot easier.

Forklift, (Required!)
Safety Glasses
Gloves (panels and sheet metal can be sharp)
Nail Aprons
Caulk Gun (heavy duty)
Clamp on lamp (to warm oven cement and provide light inside oven)
Measuring tape
Chalk Line
Square
(2) Electric drills with 3/8“, & ¼” hex nut drivers for self-drilling screws
Note: Cordless drills are handy to have around but we use drills with cords.
Cordless drills are way too slow.
3/8“, 1/4”, & 3/16“ drill bits
Jig saw with 18-24 TPI metal cutting blade
Angle drill or right angle drill adapter (required if oven is within 14” of wall)
Hand held metal grinder
Hammer drill with 3/8” and ¼” concrete drills
3/8” air or electric impact wrench (optional)
“Unibit” step bit (great for smooth holes in sheet metal)
1/8” drill bit long enough to drill through 4” wall panel.
Metal snips
Socket wrench set.
Basic hand tools; screwdrivers, wrenches, etc.
Hammer
Shot hammer & block of wood (to convince panels to join)
Small pry bar
Welding clamps
Light duty come-a-long and some light chain (to hold door frame square while building)
Extension cords
Stepladders (2), These must fit inside oven!
Load Strap for pulling panels together
2 wheeled dolly (for moving doors)

Makita 6952 3/8“ Impact Driver

(my favorite new tool, not required but a great tool for building ovens)

Install02-Tools.ppp Pg:1
 Section 3 - Oven Building Basics Pg:1

Oven Building Basics

Layout the oven location and snap chalk lines on the
floor. Check to make sure the diagonal measurements
of the rectangle are the same.
Refer to the plan provided for dimensions .
You will be provided with a GEOMETRY LAYOUT
sheet with the geometry to lay out your oven.
Important Note:
Check and double check
your dimensions! THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT!
Take the time to get this RIGHT!!!!

Our ovens are built in this order

Lower fan frame is set
Upper fan frame is set
Door posts & header are assembled
Door postO&v eheader are set
n Inte
Air channels connect Fan ide Frame to door Header
rior S

Panels are set starting at the door post and working back
Top panels set starting at the fan frame working forward
Flashing is attached
Exhaust fan is installed
Doors are installed
Interior duct work is installed To set a panel
Burner is installed Set it in the floor track and start the corner in the
socket of the wall panel, then tip it up so panel
Control panel & power panel are installed engages the socket of the next panel. Then use
Thermocouple jack panel is installed a block of wood and mallet to tighten up the joint.
The joint should be as even as possible inside
Hi Heat thermocouple is installed and out from top to bottom.
Air Flow switches are installed Your plan shows where male and female edges
are located.

Check your spacing as you go. Measure from the

leading edge of one panel to the leading edge of the
Screws
Oven panels are designed to “breath” with the change
next. Refer to the plan provided for dimensions.
in temperature. Too many screws in the wrong places
Check the diagonals when each top panel is installed
can interfere with this. The vertical seams are not
to keep the top of the oven square.
screwed except at the top and bottom. I will point out
where screws are needed.

Screws
A stripped screw is just plugging a hole. Use care when
driving screws with a drill. In some places you will be
going through several layers of metal and may have to
“pre-drill” with a 3/16“ bit. In other places you will be
going through a single layer of 20 gauge metal.

Insatll03-Basics.ppp
 Section 3 - Oven Building Basics Pg:2
Insulation
All male panel edges, bottoms, and tops, get
insulation.
This is important and easy to forget, especially
in the bottom edge of the panels. Check and
double check each panel as you go.
Two kinds of insulation are shipped with the oven.
Use the precut strips for the panel edges. You
should trim the width of these strips to fit snuggly
in the male edge of every panel. The strips will fit
without trimming in the top and bottom. Save the
thicker uncut pieces for later. You will use them in
the wall to roof panel joints, the vertical joints at
the back corners, and in the door frame.
Hint: This is Rockwool insulation and does not
itch like fiberglass BUT DON’T wipe your face Use a straight edge kitchen knife or an electric fillet knife
after handling it! Rinse off with cool water after and straight edge to cut block insulation.
handling it.

Wear Gloves!!!

Hint: Wal-Mart sells this electric fillet knife to cut the block insulation and trim the strips. It
works great but remember it is really sharp! You can do some serious damage to yourself if you
get careless.

Insatll03-Basics.ppp
 Section 4 - Components Pg:1

Oven Component Identification

Exhaust Fan Assembly Variations

NOTE:
Your components may vary from those pictured.

Exhaust duct through roof

GI or GP type with Air Flow Switch (AFS-1)

Return Air

Most Exhaust Fans look like this

High Heat Limit Thermocouple Assembly

Thermocouple Jack Panel Assembly

Burner mount assembly

Install04-Components.ppp
 Section 4 - Components Pg:2

Re-Circulating Fan
Upper and lower fan frame assy.

NOTE: Our ovens now come A ir Ch an ne

D oor Fra me Header l
with the re-circulating fan and
roof panel assembled on the
upper fan frame assembly Fan Frame
and the lower section is pre- Upper

Door Frame Post

assembled. The lower section
is simply bolted under the up-
per section so no welding is
required.
Fan Frame
Lower

ne l
ha n
or C
Flo

Tempo
ra ry D
oor Fr a
me S p a
c er

Upper fan frame with Re-circulating fan and roof panel assembled.

Install04-Components.ppp
 Section 4 - Components Pg:3

Door Header Angle

Misc
Hardware

Anchors

ck
ent Tr a
el

ion V
n
an

ri but
Ch
Air

tor

st
Ai r D eflec

i
Air D
Burner Box Close Off Sheets

Burner Control Box

Control Panels may be mounted

on horizontal pieces of unistrut.
Refer to your plan for mounting
locations and details.

Install04-Components.ppp
 Section 5 - Layout Pg:1

Oven Layout
This part is worth taking a little extra time to get right. Refer to your plan for the dimensions to lay out your
oven. The plan bases everything off the location of the back corners of the Fan Frame Assembly.
It is important to establish marks on masking tape on the floor in case the chalk line disappears.

Revision Note: Some pictures included in this manual may show the floor channels set in place before the fan
frame is set and anchored. Set the fan frame and anchor it before setting any floor channels. It works out a lot
Geometry for locating oven from a side wall
(finding points “C” & “E”)
Refer to your plan for the dimensions to lay out your oven.

"A" - Fan Frame to wall (16" Min.) Building Wall

12" Min.
A A
Floor Channel OD 4-1/16"
D End of Floor Channel Fan Frame Corner B
D to B dimension from plan
= 1/2 Fan Frame Width

Fan Frame corner to end of Floor Channel

Ar c ra
C/L to D

n
pla
dius D

m
fr o Fan
i us
rad Frame

Arc radius
to

r c Area
Ca
C = Fa

to
Door End

B
Oven Center Line
n Fra

B to E = F
me Wid

Sa
me
as

an Frame
Bt
th

oC

Width
C End of Floor Channel Fan Frame Corner E
Floor Channel OD 4-1/16"

Write in dimensions from your plan you will need to lay out the oven.
1 Measure and mark line “A” from wall (Min 16“): _________ (You decide this)
2 Mark “B” & “D” on line “A” , B to D =: ___________ (Fan Frame corner to end of Floor Channel)
3 Mark arc “B” to “E” & D” to “C”, Arc Radius =: ____________ (Same as Fan Frame Width)
4 Mark Diagonal Arcs “B” to “C” & “D” to “E”, Arc Radius =: ____________
5 Mark a line from Intersection “D” to “B” & Intersection “C” to “E”
6 Chalk a line 4-1/16“ outside these lines to mark the Floor Channel OD.
7 Measure ½ Fan Frame width from B & D to locate Oven Center Line & chalk it.

Fan Frame Width: ____________ ½ Fan Frame Width: __________

NOTE: The Floor Channel ID will end up slightly inside points D & C. This is correct because we cut the
flange off the Floor Channel around the Fan Frame. The line for the Floor Channel OD is what matters.
You should also make marks for the Door Post outside corners using dimensions from your plan.
Install05-Layout.ppp
 Section 5 - Layout Pg:2

Oven Layout
This part is worth taking a little extra time to get right. Refer to your plan for the dimensions to lay out your
oven. The plan bases everything off the location of the corners of the Fan Frame Assembly.
It is important to establish marks on masking tape on the floor in case the chalk line disappears.

Revision Note: Some pictures included in this manual may show the floor channels set in place before the fan
frame is set and anchored. Set the fan frame and anchor it before setting any floor channels. It works out a lot

Geometry for locating oven from an end wall

(finding points “D” & “C”)

Refer to your plan for the dimensions to lay out your oven.

Floor Channel OD 4-1/16" B - Fan Frame Corner

D End of Floor Channel
B
nsion from plan
B to D Arc dime er to e nd of Floor Channel
= 1/2 Fan Frame Width

Fan Fram e corn

) 12" Min.
(Sam e as E to C A
C/L to D

n
pla "A"
n from Fan Frame
sio to wall
i men
d (16" Min.)
rc
o Ca
Bt
Center Line of Oven

Et
oD
Door End

(s a Fan
me Frame
as
B to Area

Building Wall
C)

A
4-1/16"
C C - End of Floor Channel E
Floor Channel OD E - Fan Frame Corner

Write in dimensions from your plan you will need to lay out the oven.
1 Measure and mark line “A” from wall (Min 16“): _________ (You decide this)
2 Mark the Center of the Oven on Line “A”
3 Mark “B” & “E” on line “A”, Distance from Center Mark =: ___________ (½ Fan Frame Width)
4 Mark arc “B” to “D” & E” to “C”, Arc Radius =: __________ (Fan Frame corner to end of Floor Channel)
5 Mark Diagonal Arcs “B” to “C” & “E” to “D”, Arc Radius =: ____________
6 Mark a line from Intersection “D” to “B” & Intersection “C” to “E”
7 Chalk a line 4-1/16“ outside these lines to mark the Floor Channel OD.

Fan Frame Width: ____________ ½ Fan Frame Width: __________

NOTE: The Floor Channel ID will end up slightly inside points D & C. This is correct because we cut the
flange off the Floor Channel around the Fan Frame. The line for the Floor Channel OD is what matters.
You should also make marks for the Door Post outside corners using dimensions from your plan.

Install05-Layout.ppp
 Section 6 - Re-Circ Blower Pg:1

Mount the Re-Circulating Blower

Note: Most ovens now come with the Re-
Circulating blower installed on the upper part
of the fan frame. This section is included
to cover the rare occurrence of the install-
ing the blower in the field.
Rig the lifting chain with a bolt through these holes so the
fan will hang vertical (not the way the fan is rigged in this
picture).
Support the fan panel on the ground to allow clearance for
the fan cone assembly and lower the blower into the fan
panel as shown.
Rig the fan carefully before lifting and be sure the chain can
not come off the end of the forks.

Fr o
nt
of
O ve
n

Only mark and drill the holes that have full clearance.
Lift the fan back out of the fan panel.
Drill the bolt holes with the letter #R drill included.
Put a small bead of the high temperature silicone (red)
around the fan panel opening and drop the fan in place.
Use a 3/8” impact wrench to thread the self threading 3/8”
bolts provided in to the bolt holes. Run these down snug
but be careful to not over tighten and strip them.
Note: If you don’t have a 3/8” impact wrench, you can
thread the bolts into place with a socket wrench but it is a Mark the bolt holes with a transfer punch or marker.
lot more work.

Attach the 1/4” aluminum tubing to the tube

fitting mounted on the fan and run it to the side
of the oven where the control box and burner
will be located.
Attach it to the fan panel with the clips provided
every 12” or so to within a foot from the panel
edge. Leave the extra tubing coiled on the
panel.
This tube will be run to the air flow switch later,
after the switch is mounted and the exterior
flashing is installed.

Install06-Re-Circ-Fan.ppp
 Section 7 - Fan Frame Pg:1

Assemble the Upper & Lower Fan Frame Sections

Note: Be careful where your forks are while lifting the upper frame. DO NOT lift on the Fan.
Use blocks if needed to lift on the frame only.

Raise the upper section and screw it to the lower section of the fan frame.

Lower frame may be positioned and an-

chored before attaching upper frame.

Set the fan frame assembly on your

marks and anchor it to the floor with
hammer anchors.

Line up upper & lower frame and fasten with screws

Install07-FanFrame.ppp
 Section 7 - Fan Frame Pg:2

The floor channel around the

fan Frame is installed after the
fan frame is anchored in place.

Drill 1/4” holes with hammer drill Set 1/4” hammer anchors

You will need to remove any screws in the

front edge of the fan frame before installing
top panels.

Install07-FanFrame.ppp
 Section 8 - Oven Frame Pg:1

Oven Frame
Note: Take time to get the frame plumb &
square. How the doors fit depends on it.

Air Channel

Header angle is on back of header

U ll f
se
pu

You may have to set an an-

ra e s
ra

tc qu

chor or two in the floor and

m

he ar

attach a ratchet strap to

t
st th

hold the frame square until

ra e
e
p nt

you get a couple of panels set

or

on each side.
co hte
m
ig

e- n h
a- ea
lo d e
ng r
to bo l
ts

A te m
por ary
fra me s pa
ce r is
he lpful
l

Bolt Door Frame together but do not tighten bolts until

frame is in place and pulled square.
Bolt Air Channels in place (wider edge is the top).
Air channels are marked so when installed the holes
will match up to the side panel seams for support
when attached. Be sure to install the air channels as
marked.
II like to install the back wall panels to hold the Fan
Frame square
Be sure Door Frame is plumb & square.
To anchor door frame post.
Drill 1/2” Holes with hammer drill and install
Redhead anchors
Install08-OvenFrame.ppp
 Section 8 - Oven Frame Pg:2

Building the Back Wall

Make sure all panel edges are insulated (don’t forget the bottom).
Refer to the plan for panel ID and location.

Now attach the back wall to the frame with self drilling screws through the pre drilled holes in
the frame.
The back wall should come out just a little shorter than the Fan Frame on both ends.
This is so they don’t interfere with the side walls later (they may run a little past the frame).

Air Channel bolted to Door Frame header

ng
marki
N ote
l
f ch an ne
ip o
ar r ow l
N

Air Channel bolted to Fan Frame

Air Channel bolted to Door

Frame Header (another view)

Install08-OvenFrame.ppp
 Section 8 - Oven Frame Pg:3

Another image of a completed oven frame

Detail View of Air Channel fitted to Door Frame Post

Note notch for Air Channel

In Door Post Channel

Side panels
Slip into
This channel
Install08-OvenFrame.ppp
 Section 9 - Burner Pg:1

Mount the Burner Assembly

Important: Be sure to check the dimension to the
penetration from the floor to make sure you have the
panel right side up.
Remove the four bolts holding the burner mounting flange to
the flanged tube and remove the mounting flange.
Insert the flanged tube into the penetration in the wall
panel and screw it in place.

Re-assemble the burner mounting flange to the flanged tube

with the included 3/8” thread cutting bolts. DO NOT
tighten them yet.
Make sure the 1/4” bolt that tightens the burner mounting
flange is loose.
Screw the inner flange to the inner side of the wall panel.

WARNING!
Do not turn on the gas until you have verified the gas
pressure is below the maximum allowed for your burner.
Excessive pressure may damage components and is NOT
covered by warranty.

A rod fits in the clamp

on each side of the
burner tube to stabilize
the burner.

You may need to add

additional support de-
pending on how the
plumber supports the
gas line.

Install09-Burner.ppp
 Section 9 - Burner Pg:2

Loosen the clamp bolt and the four mounting bolts, then
insert the burner into the mounting flange. Push the
burner in as far as it will go and snug up the clamp bolt
and the four mounting bolts.
Install the support rods in the brackets on the burner.
These rods help support the burner.

Support rods

Important Note:
The literature in your parts book from the burner
manufacturer has a diagram of the gas train layout
and other important information about the burner.
Be sure to provide this to your plumber.

Gas regulator and pilot gas regulator in-

stalled.

NOTE: There is an arrow on the gas reg-

ulator.
Make sure it points toward the burner!

WARNING! Do not turn on the gas un-

til you have verified the gas pressure
is below the maximum allowed for
your burner.

Install09-Burner.ppp
 Section 10 - Walls Pg:1

Build The Oven Walls

Refer to the plan for panel placement and build the side walls. Be sure to tap the panels down completely into the
floor channel with a block of wood and mallet as you go. I install a couple of the Air Slot Tracks across the oven to
keep the side walls from bowing on longer ovens. Put a screw 7/8“ into the outside panel joint about 10” down
from the top in each panel. Also put a screw through the floor channel into the panel at the bottom. You don’t need
to put any screws in the inside joint yet. The panels may not be exactly even at the top if the floor is not perfectly
level but the panel edges should be plumb.

Be sure to insulate all MALE edges

and ends of panels
s
d ge
e First panels slip into channel on Door Post.
a le
m Make sure door post is plumb.
e
lat Put a few screws through Door Post Chan-
n su
:i nel into side panel.
o te Check that door post is still plumb before
N
screwing first panels to Floor Channel.
After the first couple of panels are screwed
in place, the door frame will stay plumb

The panel joints should

l
hanne be the same width from
in air c
Holes
top to bottom.

DO NOT force the pan-

els together TOO
TIGHTLY!
Look closely and you will
see how the panels
should fit together.

Use a block of wood and a shot hammer to tap panels in place if needed. A gentle tug
with a load strap can also be very helpful if panels are really tight. Check the
dimension between the leading edges of each panel to maintain panel spacing.
Put one ladder inside and one outside to make things go a little quicker.

The holes in the air channel are About 3/4” to 7/8” from the visible panel joint.
At this point the panels are overlapped so you are drilling through 5 layers of
panel metal. Pre-drill these hole before trying to run screws in. This provides
support for the air channel.
Install10-Walls.ppp
 Section 10 - Walls Pg:2

0-7/8"
Panel Joint
Detail
When putting screws in panel joints, you will drill
through 5 layers of metal if placed correctly. It is a
good idea to pre-drill these holes with a 3/16“ drill.

Male Female

Install10-Walls.ppp
 Section 11 - Roof Pg:1

Install The Roof Panels

You can use a forklift to lift the panels over the door frame then carefully slide them down the air channels into
place. Refer to the plan for panel placement.

Check to make sure diagonals are the same from the back corners of the oven to the front corners of the panel
you are working on. The oven roof must be kept square as you go. The panel joints should be even so if you
need to adjust the diagonals just slide the panel slightly to one side or the other to keep the roof square.
It is a good idea to put up a couple of the air distribution channels to hold the oven walls the right distance apart.

A load strap is handy to gently pull the

panels into place. Use a block and
mallet to tighten up the joint or adjust a
panel end to end.

Don’t forget to insulate

the panels edges

From the top side of the panels, put a screw about 12“ in from each end in the panel joint then put one about
every 24”. Use the same pattern to screw the inside joints. We use more screws in the roof joints to keep the
joints from spreading when the electricians and others are walking on top of the oven. Make sure the dimension
between the walls is the same as at the burner box frame then run screws through the top flange of the air
channel into the roof panels.

NOTE:
Ai r Slo t Track
This is an old picture.
We now build the walls
from the door frame
back so the the door One of the air slot tracks is
used to hold the oven walls
frame and header would the correct distance apart.
appear in this view.

Install11-Roof.ppp
 Section 12 - Doors Pg:1

Mount The Doors Important Note:

Oven Doors are heavy and
awkward to work with.
Be careful.
WATCH OUT FOR YOUR
FEET!!!

NOTE:
Washers can be added un-
der the hinges to level the
doors if needed. If you paid
attention and got the door
frame square and plumb
very little shimming should
be needed.

Sometimes a good kick is

needed to make the doors
match at the bottom (in &
out). Just sit down and push
the one sticking out in until
it matches the other door.

Bolt the hinges to Door Posts and Door with hinge pins removed.
Doors are marked to identify Left Door or Right Door and Top
Set the door on a 2 x 4 and move into position so the hinges line up
Drop in hinge pins then remove the 2 x 4 so the door drops down onto hinges.
Screw on the spring loaded door casters as shown on your plan.
Install the door handles at a comfortable height.

If the doors need to be

shimmed to make them level
do that first.

About 1/8” With the doors closed mount

the Brixon latch strike
mounting bracket about 1/8”
above the top of the doors.

Make sure the doors will not

rub on the mounting bracket.
Install the Brixon latches on
the doors so they match up
with the strikes.

Note how gasket The Brixon latches should

Closes gap here hold the doors closed so
they gently compress the
door gasket.
The gap between the doors and the door frame should be Adjust the strikes in or out as
about 5/8”.
needed.
Install12-Doors.ppp
 Section 12 - Doors Pg:2

Door Gasket
Remove about 2” of the springy metal inside the tadpole gasket and fold the gasket back into
itself then staple the end closed. This makes a nice neat end for the gasket.

The edge of the gasket bulb should end up a little inside the edge of the door.
Apply door gasket cement about 2-3 feet at a time and fasten with large head rivets supplied.
The LEFT door gets gasket on the hinge side and top ONLY!
Leave about 5-6” of gasket hanging out from the top of the left door where the doors meet.
Use this to make the seal between the doors at the top when the doors are closed.
Just loop it back to the left door so enough gasket extends past the door to seal to the right
door and rivet it in place.

The RIGHT door gets gasket on the hinge side, top, and left side.
When bending the gasket around the corners DO NOT cut the gasket! Just gently bend the
gasket around the corner into a comfortable radius and let the flange material overlap.

Hinges Gently bend gasket

around corners
Leave tadpole gasket hanging
out at top.
Bend it back and rivet in place Hinges
to make a little tab to seal be-
tween the doors.

Glue gasket &

Door stop rivet every 16” +/-
This is put on after the
gasket and adjusted
from inside the oven to
close on the gasket Right Door (inside)
then screwed in place. Tadpole gasket on
both sides and top.

Left Door (inside)

Tadpole gasket on
hinge side and top

Floor sweep Tadpole gasket extends to floor

Install12-Doors.ppp
 Section 12 - Doors Pg:3

Install the Door Stop

The door stop angle goes on the left door. It is installed after the door gasket is put on to seal
the doors in the center where they meet.

Hold the door stop in place from inside the oven with the doors closed and compress the gas-
ket just a little.
Make a mark on the door stop so you can open the doors and attach the door stop.

The idea is to adjust the door stop for any misalignment of the doors so you get a good seal.

Mark here
Door Stop
Top View 0-5/8" +/-

Rivet
Through
flange

Left Right
Door Door
DoorStop-detail.skf
11/24/2004

Door switch mounting bracket screws to Brixon latch

mounting bracket.

Door switch strike mounts to door.

Door Casters

Install12-Doors.ppp
 Section 12 - Doors Pg:4

Top of left door

(inside)

We now use
a rivet here

How to finish gasket ends

Install12-Doors.ppp
Section 12 - Doors Pg:5

Door gasket
floor sweep
details

Fold the end over and staple

Fold in half and staple

Install12-Doors.ppp
 Section 13 - Flashing Pg:1

Install The Exterior Flashing

NOTE: Pre-drill 1/4“ holes every 10-12” in

the break of the flashing edge. Drill from the
inside then clean off drill burrs on the
outside.

Place the corner pieces on the corners

and mark the ends but do not attach
them yet.
The vertical & horizontal flashing should
extend so the corner piece will cover
them 1 to 1-1/2”.

Cut the slab insulation to fill the corners.

Make a mark at 6“ or 7“ (depends on your flashing) with

a square on both sides and each end then chalk a line
for flashing edges.

You can use a piece

of tape to hold
insulation in place.

Install13-Flashing.ppp
 Section 13 - Flashing Pg:2

An electric fillet knife works great for cutting slab insulation.

Push the flashing on and align the edges with the chalk
lines then screw it in place.
A crooked flashing really looks bad so take your time to
get it straight.

Finally, install the corners. This takes a

little pulling and tugging to get them right.

Corners overlap
side pieces by 1”
to cover joint.
This picture has it
wrong. Put the cor-
ners on last.

Install13-Flashing.ppp
 Section 14 - Control Panel & Jack Panel Pg:1

Mount The Control Panel, Disconnect and

Thermocouple Jack Panel
To door
switch &
air Flow
Switch 1

Power to Efa n
To hi heat lim it

Po wer to Rfan
Use screws and
washers to attach
Efan Rfan unistrut to panels at
speed speed panel joints
control control

Power in
Oven Control Panel
(OCP)
safety
circuit switch
transformer breakers
To
Jack
panel
r
r wir e to burne
m od m oto
r
es to burne
co ntrol wir

Locate the 7’ pieces of Unistrut and attach one to the oven at panel joints using fender
washers and Tek screws provided. The plan shows the dimension for this.

The screws should be 7/8“ from the panel joints. Be sure to go to the side of the joint
that overlaps the other panel! You should pre-drill these with a 3/16” drill.

Locate and screw the other support to the wall.

Bolt through the back of the control panel into the nuts in the support channels. .

The touch screen panel should be at eye level.

Install14-ControlPnl.ppp
 Section 14 - Control Panel & Jack Panel Pg:2

Mount The Control Panel, Disconnect and

Thermocouple Jack Panel

See your plan for

this distance

This is what a nice neat job looks like!!!

Show this to the electrician BEFORE he starts.

Junction Box Inside oven wall

Locate the position for the Jack panel

assembly to the left of the control
panel (see the plan). Use the template
and instructions with the jack panel for
Jack panel
mounting.

Jack Panel (primary T1

channel is painted red)

Install14-ControlPnl.ppp
 Section 14 - Control Panel & Jack Panel Pg:3

Jack Panel Junction box

Remove the
cover plate

Remove the tape holding the Carefully unwind the thermocouple

junction box to the Jack Panel wire from the junction box

Note:
Detailed instructions for mounting the jack panel are included with the jack pan-
el assembly.
The instructions, template for cutting the hole, and mounting screws are
packed inside the junction box.

Remove the junction box then thread the wires

through the oven wall from the inside. NOTE:
Fasten the jack panel to the inside oven wall Type “J” thermocouples require
With screws provided. the RED wire on the - (negative)
Thread the junction box on the wires and fasten Terminal and the WHITE wire on
It to the outside oven wall with the screws provided. the + (positive) terminal.
Carefully cut the fiberglass
cover with a razor blade and
remove about 1-1/2”
Install14-ControlPnl.ppp
 Section 15 - High Temp TC Pg:1

Mount The High Temperature Thermocouple

Note: The high temperature limit thermocouple is installed in the top of the burner box.

HHL

NOTE:
The air flow switches on your oven
may have two tubes, High & Low.

Air Flow Switch 2

For Rfan

Inside oven wall

Install15-HiTempTC.ppp
 Section 16 - AFS-2 Pg:1

Mount The Air Flow Proving Switch for the Re-Circulating

Blower (AFS-2)

Mount the air flow switch and run the 1/4”

aluminum tubing from the pick up fitting on the
re-circulating blower marked “Low” to the inlet on
the air flow switch marked “LOW”.

Run a second tube from the “High” fitting on the

fan to the “HIGH” inlet on the air flow switch.

Use 1/4” tube clamps and screws provided to

fasten down the tubing nice and neat.

NOTE:
When running the tubing over
the edge leave it a little off
the corner.

Install16-AFS2.ppp
 Section 17 - Exhaust Fan Pg:1

Mount the Exhaust Blower With Air Flow Proving

Switch (AFS-1)
NOTE: A variety of exhaust fans and ducting arrangements are used in our ovens. Your
fan and ducting may look different than the pictures.

3’ long strut bolts to fan and gets

screwed to oven

Rout the exhaust

flange
stack through the
roof as straight as
possible.

Insert the rectangular duct through flange

and the panel penetration.
AFS 1
Apply red silicone to flanges then bolt the
round duct to the fan.

Attach the black flange to the oven roof

panel and duct with TEK screws.

From inside the oven slip the flange over the duct
and slide it up to the roof panel and attach it with
TEK screws. Seal between the flange and roof pan-
el with red silicone. Attach the angle brackets for
the air slot track.

Connect 1/4” OD aluminum tubing from the fan fitting marked “Low” to the connection
marked “LOW” on air flow switch (AFS-1).
If the fan has a “High” connection, connect it on AFS-1 marked “HIGH”.
Otherwise do not connect anything to the “HIGH” connection on AFS-1.
Mount the air flow switch on the side of the oven as shown on your plan. The switch must
be mounted vertically.
Install17-EFan.ppp
 Section 18 - Conduit & Wiring Pg:1

Install Conduit and Wiring to Components

To door
switch &
air Flow
Switch 1

Po wer to Efan
To hi heat lim it

Power to Rfan
Use screws and
washers to attach
Efan Rfan unistrut to panels at
speed speed panel joints
control control

P ower in
Oven Control Panel
(OCP)
safety
circuit switch
transformer breakers
To
Jack
- 1)
panel witch (DS
Do or S

r wire to burner
m od m oto
AFS-2
AFS-1

ner
ires to bur
control w

High
EFan
Heat
Door Limit
RFan
switch
AFS-2
AFS-1

Fresh
Air
Inlet

Power
Control Distribution
Panel Panel
(OCP)

Burner

Install18-Conduit.ppp
 Section 18 - Conduit & Wiring Pg:2

Install Conduit and Wiring to Components

Loosen the screw and flip open the wiring
terminal base of the burner for access.
All the terminals you will need to hook up
for the burner are located here.

DO NOT try to get into the

Honeywell controller base!

Mod motor wire only

Control wires

NOTE:
DO NOT strip wires to connect
to these terminals.

Use the special skinny screwdriver provided

to toggle the blue lever to clamp the wire in.
Practice with a piece of wire until you see how
they work

All wires MUST be numbered!!!

Install18-Conduit.ppp
 Section 18 - Conduit & Wiring Pg:3

Install Conduit and Wiring to Components

Refer to the Electrical plan and run conduit to all components so the electrician can get started.
Thermocouple wires and shielded wire to burner modutrol motor must be run in separate conduit and not
combined with any other wires. The red wire in each thermocouple wire pair is negative . The terminals are
marked in the control panel.
All conduit and junction boxes must be mounted on standoffs to insulate them from the oven heat.
All wires should be marked at each end with the numbers shown on the field wiring diagram.
All components must be grounded.

The control panel terminal strip uses “no strip” connections. Do not strip the wire ends for this terminal strip.
You insert a skinny screwdriver into the blue slot (be sure to insert it all the way) and the wire into the hole in the
terminal, then move the screwdriver like a switch and you will feel the wire slide into the contacts as the insulation
in pierced. Flip the blue slot back up to release a wire. Make sure to flip the blue slot all the way to make good
contact on the wire. These will accept a maximum #12 wire size.

Bump the motor starter for the Re-Circulating fan to confirm correct rotation.
The primary thermocouple socket (CH1) is painted red and must be connected to channel #1 on the terminals.
Trace the sockets with a continuity meter to identify the wires.

To AFS-1 & Door switch

Light Bar High Heat Limit
Thermocouple

Thermocouple
Jack Panel

witches

ormer

Burner
ntrol

“No Strip” Terminals

Wires from
power panel

Burner control wires Mod motor wire

Install18-Conduit.ppp
 Section 19 - Interior Sheet Metal Pg:1

Install Interior Sheet Metal and Ducting

Important Note: The ducts must be spaced correctly. The air channel is pre-marked with the location for the
ducts.

First attach the air deflector to the burner box frame, the air distribution channel, and the oven walls.

r
f le cto
De

Note marks for lining up 1“

track to allow for proper
spacing between each piece.

Track ducts are easier to install if you pre-drill two 1/4” holes in each end.

Note Gap

Rattle clamps install in gaps at

center of each track

Rattle clamp brackets install at

each joint in ceiling panels.
This keeps the track from
“Rattling”.
Install19-SheetMetal.ppp
 Section 19 - Interior Sheet Metal Pg:2

Install Interior Sheet Metal and Ducting

Important Note: The air channels are pre-marked to locate the 6“ air ducts (6” track). The ducts must be spaced
correctly. You will end up with a series of air ducts with gaps between them that make the slots for air discharge.

A
ir
Pl
en
um

Discharge Air

Return Air

Install19-SheetMetal.ppp
 Section 19 - Interior Sheet Metal Pg:3

Install Interior Sheet Metal and Ducting

You will trim one piece of track

to fit around Exhaust duct

Now you can install the fan frame close off panels. Be sure to
give the fan frame area a good cleaning up before closing it up.

Install19-SheetMetal.ppp
 Section 20 - System Start-Up Pg:1

System Start-Up
You must arrange to have a qualified burner technician on site when you are ready to fire the burner.
The gas pressure must be checked and verified that it is within the proper range for the burner before opening the
gas valve to the burner. High gas pressure can damage components and is not covered by warranty .
When your burner technician is on site, call us if you need any assistance.

Important Note:
Important information is
contained in your Parts
Book from the burner
manufacturer. Be sure to
provide this to the burner
technician.

Gas pressure is measured

at this test port at full fire to
achieve rated performance.

The gas valve must travel from the low fire set screw to the high fire set screw.
Adjust the low fire screw to achieve a steady small flame and high fire to assure the gas valve is full open.
The zero set point and travel for the modulating motor have been set, but sometimes they need to be readjusted
to make sure the gas valve achieves full travel. These adjustments are made by removing the top cover of the
modulating motor. Move the adjusting screws in very small increments! You must be able to drive the burner to
high fire to make this adjustment.

With the control panel on and the burner initialized, the burner can be modulated by setting the temperature set
point higher or lower.
The control panel shows the maximum burner rate as %100. This is high fire. You can watch the modulator motor
to make sure the burner is at high fire.
The air shutter linkage has been set to allow full travel of the gas valve.
The low fire screw and high fire set screw are usually threaded about 1/4” through the stop casting.
If the light on either gas pressure switch is on, the switch is faulted and must be reset. Correct the problem and
push the reset button. The switches should be set to fault if the gas pressure goes out of the normal range for the
burner.

Install20-Start-Up.ppp
 Section 20 - System Start-Up Pg:2

Setting the Dungs Gas Pressure Switches

Note: Your burner may now come with Honeywell pressure switches. They look a little different but the function is
the same.

Light glows orange

Set Point indicator
when switch is faulted
This switch is set at 1.5
Set the Low gas switch 1 to 2“ W.C.
Below the normal operating pressure.

Identifier
GML = Low Gas

Push clear cover here to reset switch

GML-A4-4-4 Dungs LOW pressure Gas switch

Identifier
GMH = HIGH Gas Switch

Set Point indicator

This switch is set at 14+
Set the High gas switch 2 - 3“ W.C.
Above the normal operating pressure
at high fire. Do not set this above the
maximum for your burner.

GMH-A4-4-4 Dungs HIGH pressure Gas

Install20-Start-Up.ppp
 Modutrol Motor Adjustment

Mod Motor To adjust the combustion air shutter:

Start with the burner at high fire
Loosen the Link Rod set screw and pull the Link
Rod so the shutter is fully open.
Tighten the Link Rod set screw.
Make a mark on the link rod for reference.
Set the oven temperature low enough for the burner
to go to low fire.
Loosen the Link Rod set screw and see if the link
rod has pushed the shutter fully closed.
If the Link Rod is holding the burner valve from going
fully closed, the stroke of the link rod is too long. If
the link rod is not pushing the shutter all the way
closed, the link rod stroke is too short.
Section 20 - System Start-Up

To shorten the stroke, move the pivot point toward

the axle of the pivot arm.
To lengthen the stroke, move the pivot point farther
Pg:3

out on the pivot arm.

The idea is to set the pivot point to ensure the shutter

opens and closes fully without limiting the travel of the
Pivot Point gas valve. The picture shows the approximate dis-
tance to set the pivot point on the pivot arm.

od
R
nk
Li

Install20-Start-Up.ppp
 Adjusting the travel of the Mod Motor
Note: The “Zero” and “Span” potentiometers in the Mod Motor are very sensitive,
adjust them a little at a time.

Remove the cast cover from the top of the Mod Motor.
Mark the shutter link rod at the shutter link set screw
Loosen the shutter link set screw to ensure the shutter linkage does not limit
the travel of the gas valve.
Set the “Zero ” potentiometer in the Mod Motor so that the motor arm drives the
gas valve closed. Motor
Run the oven so the burner goes to high fire.
Cover
Set the “Span” potentiometer so the gas valve opens all the way at high fire.
Check the low fire and high fire settings several times, you may have to
change the “Zero” and “Span” settings several times to find the right combina-
tion.
Motor Drive
When adjusted correctly, the Mod motor should open and close the gas valve
fully without too much excess travel. Excess travel slows down the response
Arm
time for the oven.
Section 20 - System Start-Up
Pg:4

Mark shutter Shutter Link

link rod here Set Screw

Install20-Start-Up.ppp