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The Greasy Socket Garage by Memphis metro

Metro idle control systems explained.
Fast idle air valve.
The fast idle air valve is designed to increase the idle speed when your engine is cold and first cranked to aid in the warmup of the engine. The valve is
controlled by engine coolant temperature. When engine is cold a spring holds the valve open allowing more air to enter the intake which increases the idle
speed. Once the coolant flowing thru the throttle body is warmed up to near operating temperature the sensing device in the throttle body allows the spring
to close the valve, restricting airflow and allowing the engine to return to normal operating idle speed. This valve is why your engine runs a little faster
when first cranked if your car is a pre 95 model. Some 94s are slightly differant as well and do not have this valve. If the coolant lines to the throttle body
become restricted it could prevent this valve from working properly because of no heat and cause a high idle all the time condition.
http://geometroforum.com/search/?c=1&q=thermo+wax&type=post&sort=desc&forum%5B%5D=-1&s_m=9&s_d=7&s_y=2008&e_m=8&e_d=11&e_y… 1/16
To test,
As for testing it, seperate the two throttle body halves and turn the lower portion that contains the thermo wax pellet down in a pan of water and bring the
water temp to 176 degrees and ensure the valve is fully closed at that temperature.
IAC valve (Idle air control) valve
The IAC valve also reroutes air from above the throttle plate like the fast idle valve into the the intake manifold when its engergized to increase idle speed.
This valve is energized and controlled by the cars computer and is energized under various engine conditions to increase idle speed due to engine
electrical load or when car is put into gear. This valve assist in idle control after the car is warmed up to operating temperature and the fast idle air valve
has done its job.
SV valve (AC solenoid vaccum valve)
When the air conditioning is turned on the compressor operation strains the engine and lowers idle speed. This valve is energized when ac is turned on to
compensate for the load of the ac by increasing idle speed when ac is on. The cars computer controls this valve when the ac is switched on. There is a
adjustment screw to increase or decrease idle speed with ac on. Only adjust this after the engine has warmed up to operating temperature and with the ac
on and while the compressor clutch in cycled on.
Idle speed adjustment screw
Once the car has run and reached operating temperature on the temp gauge you can adjust base idle speed with this screw. Insert a spare fuse in the
diagnostic port in the fuse panel while adjusting idle speed. Make sure the air conditioning is turned to off to adjust base idle speed. Base idle speed is idle
speed with engine hot and no accessories on such as ac.
http://geometroforum.com/search/?c=1&q=thermo+wax&type=post&sort=desc&forum%5B%5D=-1&s_m=9&s_d=7&s_y=2008&e_m=8&e_d=11&e_… 10/16
ISC motor (Idle speed control)motor.
Some 94 models and later have whats called a ISC motor The ISC motor controls engine idle under various engine conditions by the cars computer. This
took the place of all earlier idle speed control designs.
Posted Feb 16 2013, 08:57 PM in The Geo Metro Lounge
105 amp altenator by Hanuman

now wood gas is a very fun subject, isnt it? also referred to as charcoal gas and i believe its been referred to as consumer gas also (could be wrong on the
last one, but that stood out in my mind from previous research i did a few years back)
now for the few geo metro scientists out there.....your probably wondering how can wood even burn? after all nothing burns unless its in a vapor state.
liquids and solids dont burn.
gas in our cars is injected as a spray (looks like a Windex bottle, very large droplets)
and is expected to vaporize completely in a few thousands of a secant (varies by rpm) and burned early in power stroke. problem is most of that fuel
doesnt evaporate in time, the rest burns off much later. 10-15% gets burned in time witch means 85-90% is un-used.
a candle is slightly different, solid wax melts, and liquid wax is drawn up the wick where the heat from the flame evaporates the liquid wax, the now
vaporised wax burns slightly above the wick. (watch candle flame realy close, it burns above the wick)
wood, is different from both of the previous examples. extreme temperature causes a thermal chemical reaction. solid wood is thermo-chemicaly
vaporized. the hot carbon gas bonds with available oxygen forming carbon-monoxide. this is the primary fuel burned in a wood stove and has about half
the btu's of gasoline. it burns orange. you may also notice 3 other flame colors. small amounts of methane gas is released and burns with a green color
flame. sometimes moisture is present and evaporates, if the steam can be heated enough (its like 4000 c or something) and bonds with carbonmonoxide it
forms hydrogen and burns a blue flame.
if temps are high and enough oxygen is present youll see a yellow flame (most common in bonfires) this is a process involving carbondioxide that i dont
fully understand. (sorry folks im still 8 pts below MENSA level, i dont immediately understand everything)
anyways you can restrict the air down to just enough to maintain thermochemical reaction, and pull the remaining unburned fuel, filter (through saw dust
normally) and burn in your engine.
New York used to have fleets of charcoal taxis during ww2 also it was piped to homes for heating and cooking before natural gas became mainstream (in
the old days)
the problem with pogues design now is oil companies put in a additive designed to plug these carbs up. original lead was used to serve this purpose, but
was removed and replaced when catalytic converts came in to play.
have you guys ever taken apart a carb that has had fuel dry inside it plugging all the jets? notice that orange crap all over the bowl.....that is the additive
that replaced lead to clog pogue style carbs.
Posted Dec 18 2012, 08:34 AM in Electrical Systems
Failed Smog, High Nox by Rang-a-Stang

I usually have a pretty clean mouth. But I'll tell you when it finally passed on Saturday morning, I dropped a very loud F@CKYEAH!!! The smog tech was
getting sick of seeing me too so I am sure he understood.
I took it home Friday after failing for the third time and I replaced my cap and wires. I cleaned my rotor (it still looked good), regapped all my spark plags to
about .035 (vice the .040 they were) and advanced my timing by a degree to 6 BTDC. I don't have my test results with me but my HC were about 90 (110
is passing) at 15mph and 65 (80 is passing) at 25mph. THere is a significant grade here off the 101 that i hit on the way to the smog shop. Its about a 10%
grade and well over a mile long so i hit it on the way to the smog shop. When i am WOT in 4th gear going up this hill i can just barely keep it at 55mph. that
gave me a good 3 mins of WOT at about 4.5K RPM, then i turned around, went to the smog shop and passed my test with a nice hot cat.
Thanks for all the help to everyone that helped my out over this long painful ordeal.
in summary, here is what i think were my problems

1) EGR passages blocked
2) EGR Valve stuck in the closed position
3) air valve in my throttle body was stuck in the closed position
4) 2 of my vacuum ports in the throttle body were partially clogged (EGR output and ICS input)
5) EGR Vaccum modulator was degraded. It was not dead, but it was going.
6) EGR Valve was not holding a vaccuum
7) Cap and wires were going
here's what was done to fix

1) Roto'ed the EGR passages
2) cleaned EGR with PB Blaster
3) disassembled EGR and cleaned air valve and thermo-wax, re-assembled, tested IAW the shop manual
4) cleaned ALL vacuum ports in throttle body with Carb cleaner and checked all my vacuum lines for cracks.
5) replaced modulator with wrecking yard part
6) Replaced EGR Valve with wrecking yard part
7) New Cap and wires, re-gapped plugs
8) fresh oil
9) verified timing was close to factory setting of 5 degrees
10) warmed up my cat converter before testing.
Posted Aug 14 2012, 02:10 AM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics
Heated Intake Air by Geo Glenn

mcmancuso Feb 28 2011, 09:29 PM
Some of the sprints had a thermo-wax valve in the place of that plastic circular cover you cut out, it used a system very much like what you made, but
the thermo-wax would cut off the hot air once the intake air reached a certain temp. It auto controlled the warm air on cool days
Thanks, McMancuso!
I'm going to get an Ultra-Gauge (poor boy Scan-Gauge). IAT is one of the display options. That thermo-wax valve sounds like a great idea. I'm thinking as
the weather warms up, I'm going to have to do something to monitor the IAT v. fuel efficiency. The best thought I've had is a sliding plate, manually
controlled, of course. I'll look into the Sprint valve idea/concept, if I can find one.
Posted Feb 28 2011, 09:45 PM in
Heated Intake Air by mcmancuso

Some of the sprints had a thermo-wax valve in the place of that plastic circular cover you cut out, it used a system very much like what you made, but the
thermo-wax would cut off the hot air once the intake air reached a certain temp. It auto controlled the warm air on cool days
Posted Feb 28 2011, 09:29 PM in
Gas Mileage Rant 30mpg by Bad Bent

That coolant is an issue. It might be wise to clean the TB ports as there is a Thermo Wax that controls the Air Valve and it may be coated with "coolant."
Posted Mar 3 2010, 09:03 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance
94 Metro - backwards idle speeds? by bbjsw10

chad8329 Nov 25 2008, 12:51 AM
is the metro equipped with an IAC????? Im looking in my manual and its saying something about an idle valve that is not adjustable or
serviceable....it operates off the coolant temprrature (open @ 0-140F closed at 140+) It also says if it fails the whole TB must be replaced.
Your 94 doesn't have an IAC. It uses a thermo-wax ball to close the idle port, with a calibrated spring to close it. Works much like a thermostat does.
Posted Nov 25 2008, 11:49 PM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics
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5/3/2018 Searching: thermo wax

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Geo Metro Forum → Search → Searching: thermo wax

The Greasy Socket Garage by Memphis metro

Fast idle air valve.

IAC valve (Idle air control) valve

SV valve (AC solenoid vaccum valve)

Idle speed adjustment screw

ISC motor (Idle speed control)motor.

Posted Feb 16 2013, 08:57 PM in The Geo Metro Lounge

105 amp altenator by Hanuman

Failed Smog, High Nox by Rang-a-Stang

in summary, here is what i think were my problems

here's what was done to fix

Posted Aug 14 2012, 02:10 AM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics

Heated Intake Air by Geo Glenn

Heated Intake Air by mcmancuso

Gas Mileage Rant 30mpg by Bad Bent

Posted Mar 3 2010, 09:03 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance

94 Metro - backwards idle speeds? by bbjsw10

Choose a theme: Zeta Original 1:49 PM Mar 5

Hosted for free by ZetaBoards °

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