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INTRODU GTION
Cross-Sectional
Size and Shape o[ the Hair
Both of thesecharacteristics
have usuallybeen measuredtogetheron
the same samples. In an early paper, Wynkoop (4) concludesthat "hair
shaft diameterbearslittle or no relationshipto the age of the individual,
though there seemsto be a rough correlation. . . with age group of
individuals.... " Examinationof her data indicatesthat the 0- to 9-year
agegroupof hair samplesdoeshavesubstantiallyfiner hair than the samples
of older groupsmeasured.
Trotter and her coworkers(5-7) investigatedthese hair characteristics
more thoroughlyby usinga somewhatbetter technique. Some data from
these sources,regroupedand rearranged,are given in Tables I and II.
Theseresultsshowthe averageincrease in lineardensityand of cross-sectional
area with age at leastthroughthe teen years. There is also a suggestion
o[ a modestdeclinewith older agegroups. The ellipticity, as measuredby
hair index,doesnot in thesedata correlatewith age. It is emphasized that
theseresultsare averagesand that each head containsindividual fibers of
a wide rangewith much overlapamongthe age groups.
In view of the subject-to-subject variability, the results from two
additionalpapersby thisgroupof workersare more conclusive(8, 9). The
hair indexand sizeof a smallgroupof childrenwerefollowedby sampling
their headson a regulartime schedulefrom birth throughearly teen age;
the data are givenin Table III.
ADULT AND CHILDREN'S HAIR 161
Table I
Average
Cross-Sectional Average
Number of Area, Hair Index,
Age of Group Subjects Square"Units"b
0-4
5-9 24
42 31}
42
47
75
10-14
15-19
20-29
40
35
55
}
56
50
73
77
30-49 100 51 74
50+ 44 46 76
Table II
Table III
Hair Cross-Sect.
Age Group, Index, Area,
Individuals years mm 2 X lO s
15 I 76 75
16 2-4 7O 237
16 5-9 72 312
11 10+ 73 336
Table IV
Table V
Medullation in Children's Hair •
1-2
3-5
mos.
mos.
1.0 17
0.4
7.7
f Scanty
and 32
31
extremely
fragmented
Scanty-broken
6-7 mos. 34 73 Broken -continuous
1 yr. 48 Most
2-4 yrs. 25 Most
5-9 yrs. 36 Most
10 q- yrs. 31 Most
The actualthickness
of thecuticleisslightlylargerfor thecoarse
thanfor
the fine hair, but not verymuchso. Fourt'slimited data on fiber mechanical
properties
showno consistent
effectrelatingto age,size,or morphology.
Table VI
Average
Cross- Fraction Minor/
Sect. % of % of of Sample Major Cuticle
Area, Cross Cortex Medullated, Axis, Thickness,
Sample mm2X 105 Sect. Area microns
Fatty MaterialsAssociated
with Scalp Hair
It is well knownthat changesin oily secretionsassociated
with skin and
hair arerelatedto age,e.g.,the increase
in secretion
associated
with puberty.
A numberof workers(24, 25) havepublished data indicatingthat children
exhibit hair of lower fat content than adults. The chemical character of
the fat is alsodifferent:cholesterol
and cholesterol
estersare at higherlevels,
and squalene,free fatty acids,and wax estersare at lower levels in cl•ildren
than in adults. These differencesare undoubtedlyrelated to hormonal
effects.
166 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
HAIR COLOR
Changeswith Age
It is a commonlyacceptedopinion that hair darkenswith age of the
subject,and this view is amply confirmedin the anthropometric literature.
Sometypical data obtainedby matchingagainstcolorstandards(made of
dyed swatches)for Americanwhites (5) and French Canadians(6) are
collectedin Table VII. The trend to darkening with age is clear and
seemsto occurmostrapidly in the early years. Similar findingshave been
reportedwith all populationgroups: in Virginians,Danes,Swedes,French,
Czechs(26), and evenin very dark-hairedAustralians(7). A reviewby
Trotter (27) notesmany commentsby otherson this subjectand discusses
meansfor describinghair color.
A usefullongitudinalstudyon color and agingwas done by Steggerda
(28). In thiswork, a seriesof childrenwasfollowedover a 10-yearperiod
in Holland, Michigan. Color comparisons were made annuallyby match-
ing againstthe Fischer-Sallerscaleand convertingthe letter designationsto
numbersfor averagingpurposes. A light blonde corresponds to a low
number like one, and a pure black corresponds to a high number like 24.
The relevantinformationin thispaper is givenin Table VIII. In substance,
the head hair of this group of childrenbecomesdarker by almostone unit
Table VII
White-Lt. Blonde 19 3 0 0 0
Blonde-Dark Blonde 61 44 35 25 16
Brown-Brown Black 20 53 65 75 84
White-Lt. Blonde 15 3 0 0 0 0
Blonde-Dark Blonde 50 22 4 2 2 3
Brown-Brown Black 35 75 96 98 98 97
Note: A small number of red colors have been omitted in computing the percentages in
this table. Only pigmentedfibersread by the authors;i.e., senilegray not considered.
•After Trotter (5) and Trotter and Dawson (6).
ADULT AND CHILDREN'S HAIR 167
Table VIII
"After Steggerda(28).
168 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
polarizedand contributes
to the senseof sheenor gloss;smoothcoatings
like oilsincreasethe mirror-likereflectance,and particulatedepositssuchas
dirt, detergent residue,or hair sprayparticlesdecrease it. A smoothcuticle
and a regularcrosssectionlead to maximumreflectance.Greaterscaliness
and the presence of lateralridgesalongthe shaft (saidto be presentin some
Negrohair) or a crenulated, irregularcross-sectional
shaperesultin a more
diffusereflectionpattern. The reflectedlight has the samespectralchar-
acteristicsas the incidentlight--"the hair shineswith the samecolor as the
illuminant"--and thus the tonal characteristic of the innate hair color is
diluted.
The absorbedlight that is re-reflectedis selectivewith respectto wave-
length. The maximumabsorptionis in the near UV, about 400 m/•, and
the minimumabsorptionis at 700 m• and beyond. In the visibleregion,the
curve of reflectancewith wavelengthis quite linear over the range of 400-
700 m/•, with a slightupward curvaturefor reddishtone hair (30). Other
things being equal, two pigment characteristics influence the reflectivity
after absorption: the size of the pigment particlesand their densityof
distribution. These factors plus the depth of the pigment bed--i.e., the
lengthof the absorptionpath--affect the color. Darkeningwith aging may
be related to the larger diameterdiscussedearlier, but there is alsoevidence
for increasein sizeand numberof pigmentgranulesas well.
A smallfractionof light transmittedthroughthe hair exhibitsa different
spectrumfrom that for absorptionand reflectance;it is redder due to
scatteringby the pigment granules. Since the incidenceof medullation
increaseswith aging,scatteringfrom thiscausewouldbe expectedto increase
and to resultin reddeningof the hue with age.
It may be desirablehere to sketchan over-all basisfor the existenceof
various kinds of natural hair color.
Color in hair is producedby pigmentparticles(brownish-blackmelanin
granules)dispersed in a clear transparentmatrix of hair keratinsubstance.
The principal differencein the appearancewith respectto blondnessor
brownnessis a consequence of the number of pigment granulespresent.
A high densityof pigmentleadsto the appearanceof brown or dark hair
and a low densityof pigmentto blonde. An analogous situationis seenin
screenprinting,wherethe densityof blackdotson a printedpageaffectsthe
visualappearance of darkness or lightness.It seemsreasonableto suppose
that productionof melanin pigment increaseswith age, and thus more
granulesper fiber are presentin olderpeople.
in additionto the melanotic brownpigment,theremay alsobe present
a muchmorediffuselydispersed or "soluble"red-goldstainthroughoutthe
ADULT AND CHILDRENS' HAIR 169
Table IX
"Ratio of rcfiection after passagcthrough hair to that reflected from the surface.
170 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
(1) Danforth, C. H., Hair, Amcr. Med. Assn.,Chicago,II1., 1925. (Out of print.)
(2) Garn, S. M., Types and distribution of hair in man, Ann. N.Y. Acad. Sci., 53, 498
(March 27, 1951).
(3) Montagna, W., and Van Scott, E. J., Chap. 3, in Montagna, W., and Ellis, R. A.,
The Biology of Hair Growth, Academic Press,New York, 1958.
(4) Wynkoop, E. M., Study of the age correlationsof the cuticular scales,medullas and
shaft diameters of human head hair, Am. J. Phys. Anthropol., 13, 177 (July-
Sept., 1929).
(5) Trotter, M., The form, size and color of head hair in American whites, Ibid., 14•
433 (July-Sept., 1930).
(6) Trotter, M., and Dawson, H. L., The hair of French Canadians, Ibid., 18• 443
(Jan.-March, 1934).
(7) Trotter, M., Duggins, O. H., and Setzler, F. M., Hair of Australian aborigines,Ibid.,
U.S., 14, 649 (1956).
(8) Trotter, M., and Duggins, O. H., Index and size of hair of children, Ibid., 6• 489
(Dec., 1948).
(9) Duggins, O. H., and Trotter, M., Medullation in hair of children, Ibid., 8• 399
(Sept., 1950).
(lO) Hausman, L. A., Recent studies of hair structure relationships, Sci. Monthly, 30•
258 (1930).
(11) Hausman,L. A., Applied microscopyof hair, Ibid., 59• 195 (1944).
(12) Noback, C. R., Morphology and phylogeny of hair, Ann. N.Y. /lead. Sci., 53• 476
(March, 1951 ).
(13) Trotter, M., and Duggins, O. H., Cuticular scalecountsof hair of children, Am. ].
Phys. Anthropol., U.S., 8, 467 (Dec., 1950).
(14) Duggins,O. H., and Trotter, M., Changesin morphologyof hair during childhood,
Ann. N.Y. Acad. Sci., 53, 569 (March, 1951).
(15) Fourt, Lyman, private communication;unpublisheddata.
(16) Rutherford,T. A., and Hawk, P. B., A studyof comparativechemicalcomposition
of the hair of different races,]. Biol. Chem., 3, 459 (1907).
(17) Wilson,R. H., and Lewis, H. B., The cystinecontentof hair and other epidermal
tissues,Ibid., 73, 543 (1927).
(18) Clay, R. C., Cook,K., and Routh,J. I., Studiesin the composition of humanhair,
J. Am. Chem. Soc., 62, 2709 (1940).
(19) Koyanagi, T., and Takanohashi,T., Cystinecontentin hair of children, Nature, 12,
No. 4801, 457 (Nov. 4, 1961).
(20) Block,R. D., and Lewis, H. B., The amino acid contentof cow and chimpanzee
hair, J. Biol. Chem., 125, 561 (1938).
(21) Flesch,P., The cystinecontentin coloredand white hair of mottledanimals,
J. Invest. Dermatol., 14, 157 (1950).
ADULT AND CHILDREN'S HAIR 171
(22) Wolfram, L., and Lennhoff, M., The cystinecontent of hair: fiber-to-fibervariation,
Textile Res. J., 37, 145 (1967).
(23) Ogura, R., Knox, J. M., Griffin, A. C., and Kusuhara, M., The concentration of
sulfhydryl and disulfide in hmnan epider•nis,hair and nail, J. Invest. Dermatol., 38,
69 (1962).
(24) Eckstein, H. C., The cholesterolcontent of hair, wool, and feathers,J. Biol. Chem.,
73, 363 (1927); Nicolaides,N., and Roth•nan, S., Studies in the che•nical cron-
positionof hmnanhair fat, J. Invest. Dermatol.,19, 389 (1952); Washburn,S. L.,
and Liese, G.J., The cholesterolcontent of hu•nan sebmn,J. Lab. Clin. Med., 41,
199 (1953). All in Rothman,S., Physiologyand Biochemistry o[ the Skin, Univer-
sity of Chicago Press,Chicago, II1., 1954.
(25) Nicolaides,N., Chemicalcompositionof hmnan hair fat, y. Invest. Dermatol., 21,
9 (1953).
(26) Bean,R. B., Hair and eye colorin old Virginians,Am. J. Phys.Anthropol.,20, 171
(1935).
(27) Trotter, M., Classification
of hair color,Ibid., 25, 237 (1939).
(28) Steggerda, M., Changein hair colorwith age,f. Heredity,402 (1941).
(29) Garn,S. M., Humanhair: Its composition,
anatomyand distribution,
Ph.D. thesis,
Harvard University, April, 1948.
(30) Gardner,B. B., and MacAdmn,D. L., Colori•netric
analysisof hair color,Am. ].
Phys.Anthropol., 19, 187 (1934).
(31) Flesch,P., and Roth•nan,S., Isolationof an iron pigmentfrownhmnanred hair,
J. Invest. Dermatol., 6, 257 (1945).
(32) Flesch,P., Esoda,E. J., andKatz, S., The iron pigmentof red hair and feathers,
Ibid., 47, 595 (1966).
(33) Den Beste,M., A new reflectometer,
in preparation.