Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Jewellery
By
Acknowledgement:
I wish to express my gratitude to the authors from whose works I gathered the
details for this book, Courtesy, Google for the photographs.
The word jewellery itself is derived from the word jewel, which was anglicised
from the French "jouel", and beyond that, to the Latin word "jocale", meaning
plaything. In British English it is spelled jewellery.
The history of jewellery is long and goes back many years, with many different
uses among different cultures. It has endured for thousands of years and has
provided various insights into how ancient cultures worked.
Jewels were always part of human culture. Even from the times when humans first
started using clothes and tools some 100.000 years ago, jewels were produced from
any kind of materials that were available - stones, animal skins, feathers, plants,
bones, shells, wood, and natural made semi-precious materials such as obsidian. As
the time went on, advancing technology enabled artisans to start taming metals and
precious gems into works of art that influenced entire cultures and many modern
Jewellery styles.
Jewellery or jewelry consists of small decorative items worn for personal
adornment, such as brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. Jewellery
may be attached to the body or the clothes, and the term is restricted to durable
ornaments, excluding flowers for example
The first signs of jewellery came from the people in Africa. Sometime around
120,000 years ago in the desert near Oued Djebbana, in what is modern-day
northern Algeria, a human acquired some small seashells. The shells were from a
species known as Nassarius (Plicarcularia) gibbosulus, a grape-sized marine
gastropod (like a garden snail) that lives in the shallow waters of the Mediterranean
Sea, and they were perforated and made into beads, probably for a necklace.
If evidence of what anthropologists call symbolic behavior—the use of seashells
for decorative and aesthetic purposes—as far back as 120,000 years ago isn’t
striking enough on its own, Oued Djebanna’s location should be: It lies about 120
miles inland from the sea.
For many centuries metal, often combined with gemstones, has been the normal
material for jewellery, but other materials such as shells and other plant materials
were also used.
The basic forms of jewellery vary between cultures but are often extremely long-
lived, in European cultures the most common forms of jewellery listed above have
persisted since ancient times, while other forms such as adornments for the nose or
ankle, important in other cultures, are much less common. Historically, the most
widespread influence on jewellery in terms of design and style have come from
Asia.
Jewellery may be made from a wide range of materials. Gemstones and similar
materials such as amber and coral, precious metal, beads, and shells have been
widely used. In most cultures jewellery can be understood as a status symbol, for
its material properties, its patterns, or for meaningful symbols. Jewellery has been
made to adorn nearly everybody part, from hairpins to toe-rings, and even genital
jewellery. The patterns of wearing jewellery between the sexes, and by children
and older people can vary greatly between cultures, but adult women have been the
most consistent wearers of jewellery; in modern European culture the amount worn
by adult males is relatively low compared with other cultures and other periods in
European culture.
Amulet pendant (1254 BC) made from gold, labis, lazuli and turquoise and
carnelian.
The first signs of established jewellery making in Ancient Egypt was around
3,000–5,000 years ago. The Egyptians preferred the luxury, rarity, and workability
of gold over other metals. In Presynaptic Egypt jewellery soon began to symbolise
political and religious power in the community. Although it was worn by wealthy
Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewellery commonly
placed among grave goods..
In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured glass, along with
semi-precious gems. The colour of the jewellery had significance. Green, for
example, symbolised fertility. Lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from
beyond the country’s borders.
Gold Wreath
The Greeks started using gold and gems in jewellery in 1600 BC, although beads
shaped as shells and animals were produced widely in earlier times. Around 1500
BC, the main techniques of working gold in Greece included casting, twisting bars,
and making wire. Many of these sophisticated techniques were popular in the
Mycenaean period, but unfortunately this skill was lost at the end of the Bronze
Age. The forms and shapes of jewellery in ancient Greece such as the arm ring
(13th century BC), brooch (10th century BC) and pins (7th century BC), have
varied widely since the Bronze Age as well. Other forms of jewellery include
wreaths, earrings, necklace and bracelets. A good example of the high quality that
gold working techniques could achieve in Greece is the ‘Gold Olive Wreath’ (4th
century BC), which is modeled on the type of wreath given as a prize for winners
in athletic competitions like the Olympic Games. Jewellery dating from 600 to 475
BC is not well represented in the archaeological record, but after the Persian wars
the quantity of jewellery again became more plentiful. One particularly popular
type of design at this time was a bracelet decorated with snake and animal-heads
Because these bracelets used considerably more metal, many examples were made
from bronze. By 300 BC, the Greeks had mastered making coloured jewellery and
using Amethysts, pearl, and emeralds Greek jewellery was often simpler than in
other cultures, with simple designs and workmanship. However, as time
progressed, the designs grew in complexity and different materials were soon used.
(Pendant with naked woman, made from electrum, Rhodes, around 630–620 BC.)
Jewellery in Greece was hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances
or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly
worn by women to show their wealth, social status, and beauty. The jewellery was
often supposed to give the wearer protection from the "Evil Eye" or endowed the
owner with supernatural powers, while others had a religious symbolism. Older
pieces of jewellery that have been found were dedicated to the Gods.
When Roman rule came to Greece, no change in jewellery designs was detected.
However, by 27 BC, Greek designs were heavily influenced by the Roman culture.
That is not to say that indigenous design did not thrive. Numerous polychrome
butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating from the 1st century, have been
found near Olbia, with only one example ever found anywhere else.
These Hellenistic bracelets from the 1st century BC show the influence of Eastern
cultures.
Although jewellery work was abundantly diverse in earlier times, especially among
the barbarian tribes such as the Celts, when the Romans conquered most of Europe,
jewellery was changed as smaller factions developed the Roman designs. The most
common artefact of early Rome was the brooch, which was used to secure clothing
together. The Romans used a diverse range of materials for their jewellery from
their extensive resources across the continent. Although they used gold, they
sometimes used bronze or bone, and in earlier times, glass beads and pearl.
The Renaissance and exploration both had significant impacts on the development
of jewellery in Europe. By the 17th century, increasing exploration and trade led to
increased availability of a wide variety of gemstones as well as exposure to the art
of other cultures. Whereas prior to this the working of gold and precious metal had
been at the forefront of jewellery, this period saw increasing dominance of
gemstones and their settings
Changing social conditions and the onset of the Industrial Revolution also led to
growth of a middle class that wanted and could afford jewellery.
In Asia, the Indian subcontinent has the longest continuous legacy of jewellery
making anywhere, with a history of over 5,000 years. One of the first to start
jewellery making were the peoples of the Indus Valley Civilization, in what is now
predominately modern-day Pakistan and part of northern and western India. Early
jewellery making in China started around the same period, but it became
widespread with the spread of Buddhism around 2,000 years ago.
The Chinese used silver in their jewellery more than gold. Blue kingfisher feathers
were tied onto early Chinese jewellery and later, blue gems and glass were
incorporated into designs. However, jade was preferred over any other stone. The
Chinese revered jade because of the human-like qualities they assigned to it, such
as its hardness, durability, and beauty. The first jade pieces were very simple, but
as time progressed, more complex designs evolved. Jade rings from between the
4th and 7th centuries BC show evidence of having been worked with a compound
milling machine, hundreds of years before the first mention of such equipment in
the west.
In China, the most uncommon piece of jewellery is the earring, which was worn
neither by men nor women. Amulets were common, often with a Chinese symbol
or dragon. Dragons, Chinese symbols, and phoenixes were frequently depicted on
jewellery designs.
The Chinese often placed their jewellery in their graves. Most Chinese graves
found by archaeologists contain decorative jewellery.
Among the Aztecs, only nobility wore gold jewellery, as it showed their rank,
power, and wealth. Gold jewellery was most common in the Aztec Empire and was
often decorated with feathers from Quetzal birds and others. In general, the more
jewellery an Aztec noble wore, the higher his status or prestige. The Emperor and
his High Priests, for example, would be nearly completely covered in jewellery
when making public appearances. Although gold was the most common and a
popular material used in Aztec jewellery, jade, turquoise, and certain feathers were
considered more valuable. In addition to adornment and status, the Aztecs also
used jewellery in sacrifices to appease the gods. Priests also used gem-encrusted
daggers to perform animal and human sacrifices.
Another ancient American civilization with expertise in jewellery making were the
Maya. At the peak of their civilization, the Maya were making jewellery from jade,
gold, silver, bronze, and copper. Maya designs were like those of the Aztecs, with
lavish headdresses and jewellery. The Maya also traded in precious gems.
However, in earlier times, the Maya had little access to metal, so they made the
majority of their jewellery out of bone or stone. Merchants and nobility were the
only few that wore expensive jewellery in the Maya region, much the same as with
the Aztecs.
Native American jewellery is the personal adornment, often in the forms of
necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings, pins, brooches, labrets, and more, made by the
Indigenous people of the United States. Native American jewellery reflects the
cultural diversity and history of its makers. Native American Tribes continue to
develop distinct aesthetics rooted in their personal artistic visions and cultural
traditions. Artists create jewellery for adornment, ceremonies, and trade.
Jewellery in the Pacific, except for Australia, is worn to be a symbol of either
fertility or power. Elaborate headdresses are worn by many Pacific cultures and
some, such as the inhabitants of Papua New Guinea, wear certain headdresses once
they have killed an enemy. Tribesman may wear boar bones through their noses.
Island jewellery is still very much primal because of the lack of communication
with outside cultures. Some areas of Borneo and Papua New Guinea are yet to be
explored by Western nations. However, the island nations that were flooded with
Western missionaries have had drastic changes made to their jewellery designs.
Missionaries saw any type of tribal jewellery as a sign of the wearer's devotion to
paganism. Thus, many tribal designs were lost forever in the mass conversion to
Christianity.
Australia is now the number one supplier of opals in the world. Opals had already
been mined in Europe and South America for many years prior, but in the late 19th
century, the Australian opal market became predominant. Australian opals are only
mined in a few select places around the country, making it one of the most
profitable stones in the Pacific.
Nowadays a wide range of such traditionally inspired items such as bone carved
pendants based on traditional fishhooks and other greenstone jewellery are popular
with young New Zealanders, which have contributed towards a worldwide interest
in traditional Māori culture and arts.