Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge

Vol. 11 (1), January 2012, pp. 58-65

An Insight into Traditional foods of North-western area of Himachal Pradesh

Sharma* Neetu & Singh Anand
KVK Hamirpur at Bara-177044, CSK Himachal Pradesh Krishi Vishvavidyalaya, Palampur
E mail: neepradu@gmail.com

Received 16.05.11; revised 05.08.11

A survey of food practices of natives of North western part of the outer area of Himachal Pradesh revealed a wide range
of variability in ethnic foods made of cereals, pulses, milk, tubers. Some of the famous dishes include Bhaturu, Babru,
Beduan roti,Mithdoo, Seera, Madra,Sepubari, Kadi, Lasurae ki sabji, Bhruni ki sabji, Patrode, etc. In addition to these
conventional foods they use many types of uncultivated fruits and vegetables to supplement their diet. Simple indigenous
methods are employed for processing and preparing these foods. The ethnic foods of the state not only exhibit a treasure of
food heritage but it is an integral component of the state as some of the foods are specially prepared during marriages, local
festivals and special occasions.

Keywords: Himachal Pradesh, Traditional foods, Fermentation

IPC Int.Cl.8: A21, A23, A23L 1/00, A23L 1/48

Nestled amidst the Western Himalayas, the state of
Himachal Pradesh is often referred as Devbhoomi
meaning Land of Gods. It is a captivating hill state
where on one hand one can find the snow covered
rivers and lakes and on the other the lush greenery of
forests. The cuisine of the state has been developed
keeping in mind the geographical (as agriculture is
difficult) and climatic conditions of the state.
Moreover, the high nutritional requirement of the
inhabitants is also accountable in preparing several
dishes of the state. That is why the cuisine is modified
in the manner that it provides heat and energy to the
people, to the maximum. These traditional/indigenous
foods are prepared according to the traditional
methods using simple equipments and under natural
conditions from the staple and other ingredients.
The state comprises of number of communities,
races and cultures intermingled together1. Thus, the
preferred taste also varies from region to region.
However, the staple foods of the people of Himachal
Pradesh are rice, wheat and maize but one can find
local variations due to the pattern of food production
and altitudinal variation, e.g. in the barren regions of
Lahaul spiti and Kinnaur, the local people consume
the products having coarse grains (buckwheat, millet,
barley) as the main substrate, while in the lower areas
_________
*Corresponding author:
of the state (Kangra, Hamirpur, Bilaspur) people
prefer roties (chapatis) made of rice or maize flour. In
the pasture dominated regions, milk and milk
products are widely used. Irrespective of the regional
differences in the dishes of the state, people have
specific liking for non-vegetarian items cooked along
with generous doses of spices and ghee.
The traditional meal of Himachal Pradesh is the
usual boiled rice, roti/chapati, dish of vegetable
(sabzi) and a dal (lentil broth). Special food
preparations have been developed for ceremonial
occasions as well as for paediatric and other dietary
purposes. The local inhabitants are consuming these
dishes since centuries and these form a part of socio-
cultural life of the hill people2. But due to
modernization in food habits these age–old traditional
preparations are on the verge of disappearance. Thus,
an effort has been made to elaborate some of the
recipes from the endless list of dishes prepared in the
selected study area.
Methodology
The map of Himachal Pradesh depicts two clear
topographical areas –the central and outer area. The
study was carried out in the North-western part of the
outer area of Himachal Pradesh which contains
Bilaspur, Mandi, Hamirpur, Kangra, Una and Chamba
districts (Fig. 1). PRA techniques3 were used to
 SHARAMA & SINGH: A TOUR TO TRADITIONAL CUISINE OF NORTH-WESTERN AREA OF H.P.
document the information regarding the traditional
food products of the study area. Focused group
discussions were held with the groups chosen
randomly from the selected areas of Himachal
Pradesh. Separate interview with key informants were
also conducted. In all the discussions, special
consideration was given to nature of food, usual
composition/ ingredients and method of cooking.
Prior consent was taken from the local people to share
their knowledge only for the purpose of this study.
Observations
Ethnic food of Himachal Pradesh is rich and varied,
while relying heavily on local ingredients. It can be a
healthy choice with a balanced diet of steamed rice or
roti, lots of vegetables, dal (lentils), yogurt and saag
(a spinach and/or mustard leaf based dish). Thus, the
natives of the state consume a range of foods prepared
from cereals, pulses, milk, fruits and vegetables
(Tables 1 & 2). These foods have been described
below:
Ethnic foods made from cereals (with/without
pulses)
A number of ethnic cereal based fermented and non
fermented food preparations have been developed and
consumed by the natives of the selected area. Bhaturu
is a fermented product (roti) made of wheat flour
(Fig. 2). It is either deep fried or roasted. In district
Mandi and Hamirpur, this fermented roti is fried after
stuffing it either with soybean (Glycine max L.) or
black gram (Vigna mungo L.) and is termed as
Beduan roti. One of the either pulse is soaked and
ground to a thick paste and is filled as stuffing.
Bhaturu is the staple diet while beduan is prepared
during festivals or on some special occasions. Similarly
Babroo is prepared from rice (Oryza sativa L.) or
wheat (Triticum aestivum L.) flour slurry. In district
Kangra, water and other ingredients like carom seeds
(2.5 gm), garam masala (2.5 gm) and salt are added
to wheat flour (100 gm) to form a batter of semi-
liquid consistency. After fermentation the mixture is
poured on the greased tawa (griddle) and is flattened
with the help of ladle. The procedure of making the
babroo is similar to that of preparing dosa.
Preparation of salty babroos is also reported in Lahaul
& Spiti area of Himachal Pradesh4.
In Hamirpur, sweet babroos are prepared and
named as Dhandar. Natives of district Mandi prepare
Chilru in the same manner but only the wheat flour is
replaced by rice flour to which only water is added till
59
the batter reaches a liquid consistency. They are
termed as Chareli in Hamirpur. The chilru are served
along with black gram dal (broth) or milk. Patende, a
sort of pancake prepared from rice flour is popular in
Hamirpur and Chamba districts.
Cereal based sweet snacks
The sweet snacks of the state comprises of Rot
made from dough of wheat flour and jaggery
especially in the areas of Una, Hamirpur and Bilaspur.
It is used for puja/religious purpose. While in Mandi
and Kangra districts, fermented wheat flour slurry is
used to make oval shape balls called Gulgulae (sweet
fritters). Method of cooking gulgulae commences
with preparation of a viscous slurry by mixing sugar
(50 gm), wheat flour (100 gm) , water and previously
fermented left over dough (5gm) followed by deep
frying of small oval shaped balls These are specially
prepared during birthday ceremony (Fig. 3).
One more sweet dish named Mithdoo/Sancholu is
prepared using dough of wheat flour kneaded with
sugar (30 gm), grated coconut (10 gm), ghee (20 gm
in 100 gm of wheat flour), aniseeds (5 gm) and water.
The rolled dough is cut into round shape (small rotis)
and these shapes are then pressed in between designed
embossed wooden dyes. These are then deep fried till
golden brown.
Another cereal based preparation is Seera (Fig. 4)
which is famous in Mandi, Kangra, Bilaspur and
Hamirpur. There is a tradition of gifting seera to the
bride from her parent’s during her marriage. It is a
starchy white dried solid prepared from wheat grains.
The grains are soaked in water for 4-5 days so as to
allow fermentation. The fermented grains are ground
and steeped so as to allow the starch grains to settle
down .The surface water is discarded and the remains
(starch grains) at the bottom are collected and
sundried in the form of small balls. These balls are
stored in airtight containers for use throughout the
year. When required the dried balls (250 gm) are
soaked in 100 ml of water with addition of equal
amount of sugar (100 gm).The prepared slurry is then
poured in hot ghee (250 gm) and is cooked by
continuous stirring till it becomes brown in colour and
leaves the sides/surface of skillet. All these sweet
snacks are prepared during religious, birthday, festive
or marriage ceremonies.
Ethnic foods made from pulse/legume
The beautiful state of Himachal Pradesh provides
one with a wide range of lip smacking and delicious
60 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL 11, NO. 1, JANUARY 2012

food items. One among them is Pahari madra. Madra
is a rich dish of lentils made with yoghurt. Mostly
soaked and boiled chick peas/Kabuli chana
(Cicer arietinum L.) or red kidney beans (Phaseolus
vulgaris L.) or black eyed beans /raungi
(Vigna unguiculata L.) are used. Its preparation starts
with spluttering of black and green cardamom
(2 each), bay leaf (1-2 in number), cinnamon
(1-1 ½ inch piece) and aniseed (1 tsp) in ghee (1 cup).
After that turmeric powder (1-2 tsp) and beaten curd/
yoghurt (3 cups) is added. Brisk stirring of the
mixture is essential otherwise the curd curdles. When
Table 1—Area wise distribution of traditional cereal, pulse and milk based foods
oil/ghee separates from mixture, boiled beans
(1 ½ cups), salt, dry fruits are put and cooked for
about 15-20 minutes.Another tasty dish in Kangra,
Mandi, Chamba, Hamirpur and Bilaspur is crispy
Mah ki dal ke pakoru (Fig. 5). These are fried discs
with hole in the centre. The hole is made so that it
cooks evenly all over. Pakorus are prepared from
soaked, dehusked and ground black gram dal
(100 gm) to which salt, garam masala (½ tsp) and red
chilli powder / chopped green chillies (according to
taste) are added. Dahin Bhalla is prepared by the
same method where these pakorus are termed as

Item Nature of Ingredients Importance of Method of preparation Area

food food/Time of
consumption
Bhaturu Cereal Wheat ,oil Staple food Fermentation followed Hamirpur , Mandi,
based by deep frying Bilaspur
Beduan Cereal Wheat, soybean/black Festival seasons Fermentation followed Mandi , Hamirpur,
based gram, oil by deep frying Bilaspur
Babroo Cereal Wheat/Rice, salt, Snack food Fermentation followed Kangra
based spices, water, ghee by shallow frying on
griddle(like dosa)
Dhandar Cereal Wheat, sugar, water, Festive occasion Shallow frying on Hamirpur
based ghee griddle(like dosa)
Chlru/Chareli Cereal Rice, water, ghee Festive occasion Shallow frying on Hamirpur, Mandi
based griddle(like dosa)
Rot Cereal Wheat, jaggery, ghee Religious ceremony Shallow frying on Una, Hamirpur,
based griddle (like parantha) Bilaspur, Mandi,
Kangra
Gulgulae Cereal Wheat, sugar, ghee Birthday/social Fermentation followed Mandi , Kangra
based ceremony by deep frying
Mithdoo Cereal Wheat, sugar/ jaggery, Festive seasons Fermentation followed Kangra, Hamirpur
based coconut, aniseed, ghee by deep frying
Seera Cereal Wheat, sugar, ghee Social ceremony Natural fermentation Kangra, Hamirpur,
based Snack food followed by frying in Bilaspur, Mandi
ghee
Pahari Madra Pulse Chickpea/Red kidney Social ceremony, Boiling followed by Kangra, Chamba
based beans, yoghurt, spices Special dish in slow heat cooking
marriage feast
Mah dal ke Pulse Black gram, spices Festival seasons Deep frying Kangra, Hamirpur,
pakoru based Bilaspur, Chamba,
Mandi
Badi Pulse Black gram, spices Adjunct for cooking Fermentation followed Kangra, Hamirpur,
based vegetables/grains/leg by sun drying Bilaspur, Chamba,
umes Mandi
Sepubari Pulse Black gram, spices Special dish in Steaming followed by Mandi, Hamirpur,
based marriage feast deep frying Bilaspur, Kangra
Kadi Milk Buttermilk, spices, Accompaniment to Slow heating Kangra, Hamirpur,
based gram flour the main diet Bilaspur, Chamba,
Mandi
Khoru Milk Buttermilk, spices Accompaniment to Boiling Kangra
based the main diet
Redu Milk Buttermilk ,rice -To relieve Boiling Kangra
based indigestion
Jhol Milk Buttermilk, tender Beverage during Boiling Mandi, Hamirpur
based maize kernels summers
 SHARAMA & SINGH: A TOUR TO TRADITIONAL CUISINE OF NORTH-WESTERN AREA OF H.P. 61

Table 2—Area wise distribution of traditional foods based on green vegetables, fruits and tubers

Item/Dish Ingredients (Common Scientific Parts used Time of Importa- Method of Area
name of main name collection nce of food preparation
ingredient)

Bicchu Bicchu buti (Stinging Urtica Leaves April-June Vegetable Boiling Chamba
buti ka nettle), spices, oil parviflora followed by
saag Roxb. roasting with oil
and spices
Karalen ki Karalen (Butterfly Bauhinia Buds March- Vegetable Boiling Kangra,
sabzi tree), spices, tamarind variegata L. April followed by Hamirpur,
pulp, onion, garlic roasting with oil Bilaspur
and spices
Lasiare ki Lasiara (Indian Cordia Fruit May-June Vegetable Boiling Mandi,
sabzi/ cherry), spices, mango dichotoma L and pickle followed by Hamirpur,
pickle powder as adjunct roasting with oil Kangra
and spices
Lungdu ki Lungdu (Fiddle head Diplazium Fern stems May-June Vegetable Roasting with Kangra,
sabzi Fern), spices, curd) esculentum spices Chamba
(Retz.) Sw.
Bhangolu Bhang (Indian Cannabis Seeds August- Vegetable Boiling Mandi
ki kadi hemp),spices, curd, sativa L. September curry
galgal juice (Citrus
pseudolimon Tan)
Bhruni ki Bhruni (Fig.), green Ficus carica Leaves February- Vegetable Smoking Kangra,
sabzi chillies L. March Hamirpur,
Bilaspur,
Chamba,
Mandi
Ambua Mango,spices Mangifera Fruit (Ripe June-July Adjunct Roasting with Hamirpur,
indica L. mango) spices Kangra,
Mandi, Una
Chacha Mango, onion, spices Mangifera Fruit (Raw May-July Adjunct Roasting with Hamirpur,
indica L. mango) spices Kangra,
Mandi
Mahni Mango, onion, salt, Mangifera Fruit (Raw May-July Accompani Boiling Hamirpur
chillies indica L. mango) ment to
main food
Patrode Kachalu (Taro), gram- Colocasia
flour, spices esculenta
L. Leaves July-October Snack Steaming Hamirpur,
followed Kangra,
by frying Mandi,
Bilaspur
Khati Kachalu Colocasia
bhuji/ (Taro),spices, dried esculenta
Garyali mango slices
bhuji
L. Leaves, stem, bulb July-October Vegetable/ Slow Hamirpur,
Adjunct heating Kangra,
Mandi,
Bilaspur
Kaandal/ Kachalu (Taro), Colocasia Stems August- Adjunct for Sun-drying Kangra
khandole spices, split esculenta L. September cooking
blackgram vegetables/l
egumes
62 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL 11, NO. 1, JANUARY 2012
bhalla and no spice or salt is added to them. These
bhallas are put in spiced curd after dipping in
lukewarm water so as to make them soft.
Dried balls having a diameter of about 3-8 cm
named Badi (Fig. 6) is used as an adjunct for cooking
vegetables, grains or legumes. For its preparation
soaked black gram (1 Kg) is ground to soft dough and
batter is whipped till fluffy or left to ferment for
1-2 days. Small round balls of the batter are deposited
on cotton/ polythene sheets and are sundried.
Depending upon the availability, grated white ash
gourd (Benincasa hispida Thumb.) locally called
petha is sometimes mixed to black gram batter for
preparing badian. The badis look hollow with many
air pockets and yeast spherules in the interior and a
characteristics surface crust5.
Chawal ke atte (Rice flour) ki beduan roti is a
baked cereal and legume based preparation which is
prepared by stuffing paste of soaked and dehusked
black gram dal (100 gm) mixed with garam masala
(½ tsp), salt and red chilli powder in the kneaded rice
flour (100 gm).
Black gram is used as a base material for many of
the dishes and Sepubari/Mukandbari is one more
addition to the list of such dishes where black gram is
the main ingredient. For its preparation, 500 gm of
split black gram is soaked for about 12-14 hrs and
ground to a fine paste. 75 gm of spice mixture
comprising of cumin seeds, cardamom, coriander
seeds, black pepper, fenugreek seeds and cloves are
added to the paste. Dough of paste is steamed for an
hour and the steamed dough is cut into square sized
cubes which are then deep fried. These fried cubes are
termed as sepubaries. While preparing its dish, the
sepubaries (8-10 pieces) are added to the gravy of
spinach (500 gm), spices (fenugreek powder-½ tsp,
coriander powder-1tbs, turmeric powder-1tsp), curd
(250 gm) and are cooked for about 10-20 minutes. It
is one of the key dishes of district Mandi, Bilaspur
and Kangra and is served with boiled rice.
Ethnic foods made from buttermilk (with/without
cereals)
In predominantly agrarian economy of Himachal
Pradesh, livestock rearing has been the most
important component of the farming system since
time immemorial. Thus a wide variety of
milk/buttermilk based recipes are prepared and
consumed by the local inhabitants. Curd locally called
dahin acts as a supplementary food to the local diet of
a Himachali. Another very popular by-product of
milk is chaa/ lassi (buttermilk). It is the liquid
leftover after extracting butter from churned yoghurt.
It is consumed as a beverage and local people
consider it to be a good digestive and carminative
drink.
Chaa is used for preparing a delectable cuisine
named kadi. It is prepared by simmering a mixture of
buttermilk (3 cups) and besan/gramflour (½ cup) in
spluttered onion (1 large size) and spices (cloves-4,
fenugreek seeds-½ tsp, coriander powder-1 tsp,
asafetida-½ tsp, red chillies-4 full, turmeric powder-
¼ tsp) for 20 minutes on medium flame. In Kangra
and Mandi, people enjoy the preparation with rice
while in Hamirpur and Bilaspur, it is relished more
with roti/chapati of maize flour and is termed as
Kadu. Similarly Khoru is another dish which is
prepared from buttermilk. For its preparation, cumin
seed (1 tsp) turmeric powder (¼ tsp), salt and red
chilli powder (according to taste) are sauté followed
by addition of buttermilk. The moment buttermilk is
added, the pan is taken off the fire otherwise the
buttermilk curdles.
Apart from being simply used as an ingredient for a
dish, chaa is also utilized as a medicine for treating
digestive ailments/disorders and a good example is
Redu. It is a semi liquid drink which is served with a
belief that it helps to give relief during indigestion. It
is prepared by simmering rice (150 gm) in chaa/
buttermilk (1 L.) for about 20-25 minutes. Similarly
in Hamirpur and Mandi district, Jhol is prepared by
cooking tender maize kernels (200 gm) in chaa (1 lt.)
for half an hour and is consumed after adding
salt/spices for taste.
Ethnic foods based on green vegetables and fruits
Himachali food system is very fascinating as many
of the foods are uncultivated. In earlier times when
the resources were limited, people used to rely on the
uncultivated, wild fruits and vegetables. These are, in
fact, the real natural and chemical free organic
products having a very high nutritive value, but are
highly seasonal. People of the area gather different
fruits and vegetables from forest and utilize them in
different forms-snacks, pickles, chutneys.
In district Chamba, leaves of bicchu buti (Urtica
parviflora Roxb.) are relished as vegetable. Boiled
and mashed leaves (100 gm) are cooked in oil with
 SHARAMA & SINGH: A TOUR TO TRADITIONAL CUISINE OF NORTH-WESTERN AREA OF H.P.
spices like cumin seeds (½ tsp), coriander powder
(½ tsp) and turmeric powder (¼ tsp). It is locally
called as bicchu buti ka saag. Karalen ki sabzi is
another delicious wild vegetable consumed by the
people during the month of March-April. Bauhinia
variegata L. (Fig. 7) is locally called as
karalen/kachnar. The dish is prepared from the boiled
buds of kachnar. For its preparation, chopped onion
(100 gm) and garlic (15 gm) are fried in oil (50 ml)
followed by addition of turmeric powder (5 gm), salt ,
red chilli powder (according to taste) and boiled
kachnar buds (750 gm). After cooking for
5-7 minutes, tamarind (15 gm) pulp is added and the
dish is again cooked for 5-10 minutes.
Unripe fresh fruit of Cordia dichotoma L. locally
called Lasiare/lasora (Fig. 8) is used to prepare
vegetable or pickle after removing the stone and
sticky white pulp. The fresh lasurae are slightly acidic
thus to overcome the acridity, the crushed fruits are
soaked in 1 % salt solution for 3-4 hours. The treated
lasurae fruits (100 gm) are boiled and further roasted
in mustard oil (20 ml) along with turmeric powder
(5 gm), coriander powder (½ tsp), sugar (10 gm),
chilli powder (½ tsp), and salt and raw mango
(50 gm) for about 10 minutes.
Another so-called neglected fern which is fully
utilised by the rural people of the state is Diplazium
esculentum (Retz.) Sw. locally termed as Lungdu
(Fig. 9). It is an edible fern, available as long stocks
with curled top and hairy growth over it. While
cooking, the long stocks are cut into pieces of about
one inch length and are cooked in mustard oil (20 ml)
along with paste of onion (25 gm), ginger (½ tsp),
garlic (½ tsp) and other spices (turmeric powder-½
tsp, garam masala-5gm, red chilli powder &
salt-according to taste).An optional ingredient i.e.
curd (10 gm) is sometimes added for flavour and
taste. Prior to cooking it is ascertained that hairy
structures attached to it are removed.
In some areas of Mandi district, overnight soaked
seeds of Indian hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) or bhang
/bhangolu (local term) are ground to a fine paste and
are utilised to prepare a local dish called Bhangolu ki
kadi. For its preparation, an equal quantity i.e. half
teaspoon each of cumin seed, coriander powder,
turmeric powder, red chilli powder and 10 gm of
garlic paste is roasted in 10 ml of oil. Sieved paste of
bhangolu seeds is added and the mixture is again
roasted. After 5 minutes of roasting, 100 gm of beaten
curd and a little amount of water is added and boiling
63
is continued for next 10-15 minutes. In the end, one
teaspoonful of galgal juice (Citrus pseudolimon Tan.)
is added.
Bhruni ki sabji is also popular among various wild
vegetables relished by the Himachali people. This
dish is prepared from tender leaves of fig (Ficus
carica L.). The leaves are boiled in earthen pot and
ground to a paste. Salt and green chilies are added for
enhancing the taste of the dish. A unique method of
cooking–smoking (dhuni in local dialect) is employed
to prepare this dish, i.e. a few drops of mustard oil are
poured over the burning coal and this coal is kept over
the paste with lid covered on top. The fumes of heated
oil are absorbed in the paste which gives a typical
smoky flavour to the dish.
In Hamirpur, Bilaspur and Kangra a number of
mouth watering dishes are prepared from the locally
available mango. Ambua is prepared from ripened
mangoes (Mangifera indica L.). Extracted juice/pulp
along with stones of mangoes (100 gm) and sugar
(15 gm) is added to the fried spice mixture (cumin
seeds-½ tsp, coriander powder-5 gm, garam masala-
5gm, turmeric powder-5 gm, salt). This mixture is
cooked for about 5-10 minutes. Besides adding
nutritional component to the diet, ambua also acts as
food adjunct and add palatability to the food. Another
accompaniment to the food is chacha which is
prepared from raw mangoes. An equal amount of
onion and raw mangoes are peeled and ground to
make a paste with the addition of salt, sugar and
chilies. It gives a sweet and sour taste. A semi-liquid
dish named mahni is also prepared from pulp
extracted from boiled raw mangoes. It is served with
rice after adding salt, pepper and shredded onion.
Ethnic foods based on tubers
Among the tubers, colocasia (Colocasia esculenta
L.) is widely cultivated and is utilized to prepare a
number of recipes .Colocasia is locally termed as
kachalu. Different parts of the plant are used for
preparing different dishes. The first and foremost is
Patrode (Fig. 10), which is a roll of colocasia leaves
layered with mixture of gram flour and other spices.
To prepare patrode, a fine paste of gram flour
(50 gm), cumin seeds (½ tsp), coriander powder
(½ tsp), turmeric powder (½ tsp), garam masala
(5 gm), salt and chilli powder (½ tsp) is applied
evenly on the underside of a leaf. Another leaf is
placed on the paste covered leaf and the process is
repeated till a stack of 3-4 leaves gets piled up. The
64 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL 11, NO. 1, JANUARY 2012

Figs (1-12) — (1)–Location map of study area; (2) – Bhaturu; (3) – Gulgulae; (4) – Seera; (5) – Mah dal ke pakoru; (6) – Badiyan;
(7) – Kachnar/Karalen; (8) – Lasiare Ki sabji; (9) – Lungdu ki sabji; (10) – Steamed Patrode; (11) – Khatti/Garyali Bhuji;
(12) – Kaandal/Khandole
 SHARAMA & SINGH: A TOUR TO TRADITIONAL CUISINE OF NORTH-WESTERN AREA OF H.P.
layered leaves are folded and tied up loosely in a
turmeric leaf with the help of a thread. The rolls so
formed are steamed and when done they are cut into
pieces. These pieces are shallow fried and are served
hot with desi ghee.
Khati bhuji/ Garyali bhuji (Fig. 11) is prepared
from leaves, stem, and bulb of Colocasia. For its
preparation, half teaspoon each of coriander seed and
red chilli powder are saute followed by addition of
shredded leaves of colocasia, pieces of stems, bulbs
and salt. The mixture is cooked for about 5 minutes.
Further dried mango slices (locally called
mukdi/maakdi) are added and again cooking is
continued for 10-15 minutes on slow flame.
Beduan roti, i.e. chapatti stuffed with boiled and
mashed colocasia bulbs mixed with salt , chilli
powder, cumin seed powder (½ tsp), garlic-ginger
paste (½ tsp), baked on hot griddle (specially on
chulha) is also a common and famous specialty of
rural kitchens.
Stem portion of the colocasia plant is used to
prepare kaandal/khandole (Fig. 12). For preparing
them,spilt black gram (500 gm) is soaked and ground
to a fine paste. Salt and spices are added and stems of
colocasia are covered with the paste. The paste
covered stems are then kept under sun till half dried.
These half dried stems are cut into small pieces and
are sun dried again which gives a final product, i.e.
kaandal. The dried crispy kaandal are stored and
when required, onion, ginger and garlic paste (75 gm)
is fried alongwith half teaspoon each of cumin seed
powder, coriander powder, garam masala, fenugreek
seeds. Further kaandal along with water is added
to the spice mixture and cooked for about
15-20 minutes. Usually mango powder (locally called
aamchoor) is used to give it a sour taste.
Discussion
The state of Himachal Pradesh has a vast basket of
traditional foods of its own. People of the state have
been following the method of preparation from their
ancestors and these dishes have continued like a
tradition in maximum parts of Himachal. Some of the
traditional foods still form a staple diet while rest is
prepared during special occasions. Most of the foods
identified in the study were prepared by boiling,
roasting, smoking, frying and fermentation. The food
patterns of the state are highly influenced by the
availability of raw materials, geographical and
climatic conditions.
65
In present times, due to urbanization, breakdown of
joint families to nuclear families and increase in
mobility, the loss of practice of local food traditions
reflects a general global trend among the younger
generation with increasingly more of the food that is
readily available.This imported food creates diets high
in energy density but poor in nutrient quality, leading
to obesity and other health disorders.
The experience indicates that in almost every
community there are people who still know and
understand the traditional values of ethnic foods6.
Traditional processing/cooking methods are surely not
ideal as they are based on trial and error so still there is
an ample scope for improvements .There is still much to
know about the health effects, medicinal and therapeutic
properties of certain foods. How these foods
complement each other, in what ways their use pattern
and effects on metabolic activities may be genetically
determined to understand the mystery of foods7. But for
this there is an urgent need for focused efforts to
conserve and promote traditional food systems within
rural communities before they disappear.
Acknowledgement
Authors are thankful to the traditional knowledge
holders, Smt Sarla Devi, Smt Saroj Bala, Sh Deshraj,
Sh Naresh Kumar, Smt Krishna, who have provided
valuable information on the traditional recipes of the
state.
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