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V. 13 no.

6 • Jul/Aug 2010
Special Issue
The World of Wine: Economic Issues and Outlook
Notes from the Guest Editor: Daniel A. Sumner

I
n conjunction with the 4th Annual vines and reducing price supports, while
Also in this issue Meeting of the American Wine Eco- phasing out its long-standing program
nomics Association, the Agricultural to pay for distillation of surplus wines.
Issues Center and the Robert Mondavi James Lapsley brings the world wine
Is the World Overflowing with
Institute for Wine and Food Science situation back to California. He analyzes
Wine? The Global Context for
Center for Wine Economics held a the growing demand for wine among
California Wine Supply and
one-day symposium on “Outlook and different demographic groups in the
Demand
Issues for the World Wine Market.” United States. He also shows that com-
Daniel A. Sumner.............................2 Robert Smiley, wine industry expert and petitive challenges, in part from the suc-
former dean of the UC Davis Gradu- cess of the tree nut industry, may make
The Southern Hemisphere and ate School of Management, chaired the it hard for wineries that use California
Global Wine Markets to 2030: event and coordinated the discussion winegrapes to remain competitive with
Case Study of Australia among 150 wine industry participants. low-cost wines produced elsewhere.
Kym Anderson..................................6 The articles in this special issue are In addition to these presentations,
based on the four main presentations the symposium featured remarks by two
European Wine Market Issues made at the June 25th symposium held distinguished wine industry leaders. Jon
and Prospects in the Context of at the University of California, Davis. Moramarco, former CEO of Constellation
Daniel Sumner highlights potential as well as several other major interna-
the Changes to the Common
changes in world wine production and tional wine companies and now president
Market Organization for Wine
consumption that are likely to evolve of Winebow, a major importer, provided
Étienne Montaigne.........................9 from changing policy, population, insight especially about European and
income, and per capita consumption pat- global issues. Tom Selfridge, former CEO
Looking Forward: Imagining the
terns around the world. He finds that the of Hess Collection and other premium
Market For California Wine in
U.S. is soon likely to become the world’s wine firms and now an industry consul-
2030
largest wine market as consumption in tant, opened the discussion of U.S. issues
James T. Lapsely.............................12 the traditional regions of Europe declines. with perceptive comments about how
Kym Anderson explains how the he saw the U.S. wine market evolving.
Southern Hemisphere industry has gone The world of wine, especially in the
from boom to bust in the recent cycle lower price categories that dominate
with prices dropping as production total volumes, faces many challenges for
has increased, especially in Australia producers. The consumer base is grow-
where prices for bulk wines are now ing and the quality of low-end wine
Daniel Sumner and the other well below costs for many producers. may be better than ever. But, as often
authors of this special issue Étienne Montaigne considers the happens in agriculture, producers face
would like to express their balance in Europe between reductions periodic low prices and losses that must
appreciation to John Thomas in government-created incentives to be made up during periods of higher
Rosen-Molina for his valuable produce and reductions in government prices. The current challenging period
contributions to all four articles. programs to take wine off the market. will end, but probably not before severe
The EU is paying producers to remove losses drive many producers to the edge.
Is the World Overflowing with Wine?
The Global Context for California Wine Supply and Demand
Daniel A. Sumner

For the past few decades the main Production Patterns


trends in the world of wine have been
Wine consumption is shifting from Figure 1 shows that wine produc-
the continued rapid decline in wine
southern Europe to less traditional tion in the big production nations of
consumption in the traditional produc-
wine regions while production is also France and Italy rose through about
shifting, but more slowly. Projections ing and consuming countries of Europe,
1980, before declining by almost
suggest leveling of per capita especially the big three—France, Italy,
half. Production in Spain and Argen-
consumption, but major regions, such and Spain. Over the same period, pro-
tina (not shown in the figure) grew
as the Middle East will continue to be duction in those countries has also
during the 1960s and 1970s and, since
largely outside the wine world. been steady or declined as well. These
then, has been variable. Over the
trends matter because the world of
same period, production has grown
wine continues to revolve around what
in the United States (steadily), Ger-
happens in the big three, which pro-
many (in the early years), and China
duce about half and consume about
(especially in recent years). Produc-
30% of all the wine in the world.
tion growth has also been rapid for
Table 1 shows the top eight wine-

T
the Southern Hemisphere exporters:
o set the stage for the regional consuming nations and the top seven
Australia, Chile, and South Africa.
perspectives to follow, this article producers. These countries account
provides an overview of the situ- for about two-thirds of production and
Table 1. Wine Production 20081 and
ation and outlook for wine that affect almost two-thirds of consumption. Consumption 20071, by Country
all regions and may be particularly The United States is the number three
Production Consumption
crucial for California. Here I review consumer, the number four producer, Country
and is a small net exporter. Germany is (billion liters)
recent production and consumption
patterns in order to better understand a significant producer but a major net France 4.7 3.3
how the future is likely to evolve. importer. Within Europe, the UK is a
Italy 4.6 2.6
I also use simple statistical projec- major consumer, but not a producer.
tions of consumption that can be the Among the consumers outside Spain 3.4 1.6
basis for considering more complex Europe, only the United States, China,
U.S.A. 2.3 2.1
changes likely to occur over the next and Argentina make the list. China,
few decades. Finally, I consider some with a huge population, growing Argentina 1.5 1.1
supply and demand drivers and addi- income, and a tradition of consuming
tional factors that are likely to influ- alcoholic beverages, is the only nation China 1.5 1.6
ence how wine markets evolve. outside Europe and the Americas to Germany 1.0 2.0
One of the most interesting features make the list of top consumers and
of wine markets is the differentiation producers. Just outside the list of top UK (minor) 1.2
by product characteristics and price. A producers are significant wine produc- Total of
first step to getting our bearing in the ers with relatively small consuming listed 19.1 15.5
countries
world of wine, however, is to consider populations, such as Australia, South
wine markets in aggregate without Africa, and Chile, and significant World 27.3 24.0
breaking down the numbers by price European consumers and produc-
Share
grouping, variety, or other specifics. We ers, such as Romania and Portugal. of listed 70% 64%
know that not all wine markets move Important questions for the future countries
together, but getting a sense of the are where production and consumption Source: FAOSTAT. 2010. http://faostat.fao.
aggregates will provide a background are going over the next two decades. org/site/636/Desktop/Default.aspx?PageID=
First, let us consider the trends on pro- 636#ancor.
to discussions of the markets differ- 1
Latest available data.
entiated by product characteristics. duction over the past half century or so.

2 Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California


Most production is of relatively
Figure 1. Production of Wine by Region, 1961–2008
low-priced wine that was typically con-
10
sumed locally and now may be shipped France
in bulk for packaging in larger con- 9 Italy
sumer containers. (See the next article Spain
by Anderson on page 6.) Behind these 8 USA
production trends have been prices that China
7
allowed production of winegrapes to be Germany

Billion Liters
competitive with other crops, spreading 6
of technology and knowledge of viticul-
5
ture and enology practices, and expand-
ing local markets outside traditional 4
regions. In addition, in Europe regula-
tions to curb production or production 3
growth have affected the markets. (See
2
the article by Montaigne on page 9.)
1
Demand Patterns
Figure 2 shows the trends in wine 0

9
1
3

9
1

5
5

7
7

9
7

7
9

5
5

3
1
197
196

197

198

198

199
198
196

199
197

200
198

199
196

197

198
196

consumption for the past five decades

197

199

200
200
199
196

200
(somewhat less for some countries), Source: International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), 2010.
with time series projections to 2030. high per capita consumption quanti- was growing in Germany and the
(China is not included in this figure ties of more than 110 liters per person United Kingdom in Europe, as well
because reliable historical data were that were simply not sustainable in a as in the United States and other
not available.) The historical data modern relatively urban society with countries where wine had been
show dramatic declines in France adequate water sanitation and incomes. much less important in the past.
and Italy, with substantial declines At the same time that consump- The projections shown in Figure
over the past 40 years in Spain and tion was falling in southern Europe 2 are based on a simple model with a
Argentina (not shown in the figure) (on a per capita basis and overall since linear trend and weights such that more
as well. France and Italy had very population grew little), consumption recent years are more important in the

Figure 2. Annual Total Consumption of Wine by Region, 1960–2005, with Projections to 2030
7
USA

6 France
Germany
Italy
5
UK
Spain
4
Billion Liters

Projected
3

0
0

8
9

9
6

2
1

1
6
7
4

6
3
0
197
197

197
196
196

196

201

202
196

198

201
199

200

201
199

200
198

199
199

200
198

202
202
202

Source: International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), 2010.


Note: OIV data shows higher consumption for the United States in 2005 than FAO data in Table 1.
Projections made using exponential smoothing with a damped trend.

Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California 3


The other broad driver of demand
Figure 3. World GDP Shares in 2000 and 2030 (Projected) by Region
is income. As shown in Figure 3,
2000 2030 Europe accounted for about one-third
Other Other of world income in year 2000. The U.S.
Middle East Middle East
5% 6%
Africa 3% 4% share was about 29% and the Asian
2% Africa United States
United States 3% 23% share was about 21%. The other one-
29% sixth of world income was in Latin
America, Africa, and other regions.
Asia Asia
21% 35%
By 2030 global income patterns
Latin will be very different. The Asian and
America
Latin 7%
European shares will reverse, the
America U.S. share will fall to about 23%, and
6%
there will be gradual increases in the
Europe Europe
22% income shares of the other regions.
34%
These income trends (partly driven by
Source: World Bank World Development Indicators, International Financial Statistics of the IMF, population) are significant for wine
Global Insight, and Oxford Economic Forecasting, as well as estimated and projected values devel-
oped by the USDA Economic Research Service, all converted to a 2005 base year. because it means that the most impor-
Note: Asia does not include Oceania, which is grouped in “Other.” tant wine-drinking parts of the world
will shrink relative to other regions.
forecast. Parameters for the projection these projections will have increased World wine markets may still
model are estimated from the consump- their share of the market as well. expand as incomes grow gradually in
tion data for each country separately. traditional markets and wine consump-
The projections are for continued Wine Demand Drivers tion is introduced in other places with
decline of consumption in Italy, France, Behind these consumption trends are rapid population and income growth.
and Spain but slowing of the rates of gradual changes in world population However, in order to expand in pro-
decline. At the same time, consumption and incomes. Global population is portion with world income growth,
is projected to continue to rise in the projected to peak in about 2060 at just wine consumption must take an ever-
United States, the United Kingdom, and above nine billion people. Until then, increasing share of the budget in the
Germany. Given population size and almost all the population growth is slow-growing traditional markets or
growth rates, these projections have projected to occur in the poor coun- must significantly expand in less tradi-
total wine consumption in the United tries of South Asia, Africa, and the tional markets. Some places with rapid
States topping the chart by 2015. Middle East. None of these are signifi- expansions of aggregate incomes, such
Note that the OIV data indicate cant traditional markets for wine. as South Asia, have tiny wine markets
consumption in the United States of For most food products, popula- and little cultural base for expanding
about 2.8 billion liters in 2007 com- tion growth signals substantial demand consumption. That is not to say that
pared to only about 2.1 billion liters increase. World demand growth for significant markets will not develop,
according to the FAO. These projec- wine will be increasingly limited if only that it will be difficult to create a
tions use OIV figures because OIV data major parts of the globe remain outside mass market for wine in these regions
are more consistent with U.S. data on the world of wine. Furthermore, while with little traditional base. (The Lapsely
consumption from The Wine Institute. the population of the United States article, page 12, explores the role of
Thus, if these simple projections will continue to grow, the population core consumers in the U.S. market.)
hold, over the five decades from 1980 of Europe, and especially the major Other markets, such as China, which
to 2030, the share of world wine con- wine-drinking regions, will begin also has a cultural affinity for wine con-
sumption in southern Europe will to decline and shares of the elderly sumption, will experience slow popula-
have fallen from more than half to less and very old will rise. These popula- tion growth but rapid per capita income
than one-third of world consump- tion trends by themselves imply that growth. Because wine consumption is
tion. The share in northern Europe the share of the world’s population likely to be highly responsive to income
and the United States will have risen that will be significantly engaged in increases in middle-income countries,
from less than 15% to more than one- the world of wine is likely to shrink. these factors are conducive to rapid
third. Moreover, China and some other These population trends do not expansion of wine consumption and
important markets outside the scope of bode well for global wine demand. shifts towards higher priced wines.

4 Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California


Other Asian markets are more ...in order to expand in of France and Italy. Other regions, in
mixed. For example, in Japan, there proportion with world such places as Spain, Argentina, Chile
is potential to increase the currently income growth, wine and less famous locations in Califor-
low per capita wine consumption, nia and Australia, claim to match the
consumption must take an
but income growth is projected to be quality of the more famous places and
ever-increasing share of the
slow. Conversely, in Korea, there is brands. The evolution of reputations
a potential for rapid demand growth
budget in the slow-growing of non-traditional regions competing
because income growth and diet shifts traditional markets or must in the higher price categories (not just
are likely to be rapid and the base significantly expand in less the elite prestige wines) will determine
consumption is low in a country that traditional markets. much of the economics of the overall
has a tradition of alcohol consump- wine industry in coastal California and
tion and increasing wine awareness. special issues of unique locations, many other places. Marketing efforts
climates, and marketing strategies. are important, but more fundamental
Other Features of the Wines in the higher price ranges is to create accepted wine character-
Evolving World Markets for Wine also compete in a global market, but istics that gain respect of influential
This article has explored trends that the dynamics of that market are differ- critics and to reach this stage at costs
are likely to affect wine production ent from the market for the lower-end consistent with competitors. While
and consumption globally. Many wines. Overall, income growth, espe- the markets are different, the chal-
additional factors will also affect the cially the growth of per capita incomes lenges are therefore similar for both
characteristics of wines consumed and of now middle-income consumers, will premium and basic beverage wines.
where those wines will be produced. help determine the size of the global
For example, wine regulation and premium wine market. The other Daniel Sumner is the Frank H. Buck, Jr., Professor
taxation is changing in Europe and factor, of course, is the willingness of in the Department of Agricultural and Resource
elsewhere. Modification of regula- higher-income consumers to use some Economics at the University of California, Davis
tions on wine production may allow of their new incomes on wine—not and the Director of the University of California,
Europe to be more competitive as as a beverage, but as a component of Agricultural Issues Center. He can be contacted
by e-mail at dasumner@ucdavis.edu.
programs to remove low-priced wines their luxury good consumption bundle.
from the market are relaxed. Taxa- Given rising disposable incomes,
tion and regulation of wine consump- increasing the acceptance of wine as
For further information, the
tion is driven partly by government a significant part of the high-income
author recommends the following:
revenue demands and partly by per- consumption style for new consumers
ceived social costs of alcohol abuse. is crucial for expansion of this market. OIV. 2010. “State of the Vitivinicul-
As the role of government in restrict- The expanding market for premium ture World Market OIV Report”
ing consumption expands, we may wines will be shared among competitors and “Note on the World Situa-
see reduced consumption among core based on reputation. Reputations for tion.” International Organisation
consumers, which would require a quality, generated mainly by the ori- of Vine and Wine. www.oiv.int/
broadening of the consumer base to gins of the grapes, are crucial for wines uk/statistiques/index.htm and
maintain or grow aggregate demand. to compete successfully in the higher http://news.reseau-concept.net/
Many interesting issues facing the price categories. But, even within well- images/oiv_uk/Client/2010_note_
global market for wine relate to prod- known regions, some districts and conj_mars_tableaux_EN.pdf.
uct differentiation. Wholesale prices brands command substantial price pre-
for wine range from less than one miums. Reputations evolve slowly and
dollar per liter to more than $100 per new regions or brands compete vigor-
liter. Obviously, across this range, the ously to establish themselves among
products are really not the same and those that capture price premiums.
the discussion above has been most Over the past few decades, some
relevant to the low end of the price coastal parts of California, led by Napa,
range, which accounts for the great and a few places and brands in Austra-
bulk of wine volumes. Significant wine lia, such as the Barossa Valley and Pen-
revenues are generated by higher-priced folds Grange, have been able to com-
wine markets and those wines confront pete successfully with the elite wines

Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California 5


The Southern Hemisphere and Global Wine Markets to 2030:
Case Study of Australia
Kym Anderson

then followed by other New World early 1980s (to 18%), and its share of
countries, has led to wine produc- global exports has risen from 1% to
Much like wine industries across the
tion growing far faster than wine 27%. That export growth has been at
world, the Australian and Southern
consumption in the Southern Hemi- the expense of not only Western Euro-
Hemisphere wine industry has been
hit hard by the global recession sphere. Initially, that output growth pean suppliers, but also the rest of
and declining prices. Nonetheless, was driven by perceived export growth the world whose share of global wine
the Australian wine industry is well- prospects as baby boomers reached exports has dropped from 22% to 9%.
positioned to recover from the current middle age and supermarkets became The decline in consumption in tradi-
market situation. a major outlet for retail wine sales. tional wine-exporting countries (and in
However, the expansion in those Argentina) has been matched by con-

T
wenty five years ago, the Southern export markets has been temporarily sumption growth in other New World
Hemisphere contributed 12% of halted by the recessions on each side of countries, in wine-importing countries
the world’s wine production and the North Atlantic. The Southern Hemi- of Europe, and, most recently, in East
1% of global exports. By 2009, however, sphere has thus added to the chronic Asia.
it accounted for 18% of global produc- surpluses in Europe’s wine-exporting
tion and a huge 27% of global wine countries (due to steeply declining wine Winery Size and Concentration
exports. Australia’s export-led growth consumption and slow adjustment by Another important feature that
is particularly striking, its shares rising producers in those traditional markets). distinguishes the Old and New World
from barely 1% to more than 4% of It has resulted in major declines recently producers is the size and ownership
global production and from a mere 0.2% in prices of grapes and wine, and in of wineries. In the New World, it is
to 9% of global exports. Australia now values of vineyard and winery assets in not uncommon for the largest firm to
exports two-thirds of its output (up Australia, New Zealand, and elsewhere. account for one-quarter of sales. In
from 2% in 1980–84), and is now the Booms and crises are not new to the cases of Chile and South Africa,
world’s fourth largest wine exporter Southern Hemisphere wine producers, the biggest firm’s share is close to one-
after France, Italy, and Spain. The huge nor to wine markets in the rest of the third. The share of the two or three
vineyard expansion needed to deliver world. Indeed they are normal for capi- next-biggest firms also is huge except
that dramatic transformation also has tal-intensive perennial crops, albeit with in South Africa, such that the many
caused the stocks-to-sales ratio to spike. long cycles. That does not make the pain medium and small wineries account
In light of the current global over- any easier for current producers though. for only a minority of sales. The latter
supply situation, and drawing also on Nor does it mean the pathway and speed are mainly family companies, but the
lessons from past booms, this paper of return to profitability are obvious, large firms are typically listed national
focuses on how the Australian wine for the forces behind the latest cycle are companies or multinationals operating
industry’s international competitive- different from those associated with pre- in several countries. By contrast, in
ness and market shares might evolve vious cycles. In particular, the world’s the traditional producing countries of
over the next two decades. The longer wine markets have become far more Europe, the shares of the four largest
term should see Australia trading its globalized over the past two decades, wineries are tiny, accounting for
way out of the current surplus and back which has both broadened the market between 4% and 20% of total sales. (In
to expanding its global market share, opportunities and increased the chal- China the top four account for 28%.)
especially in value terms as produc- lenges from international competition. This difference in firm concentra-
ers seek to differentiate their product Even as export volumes have grown, tion may well be important as both
more and focus on raising quality. the share of global exports from the the Old and New World producers
top five European suppliers has fallen seek to obtain retail shelf space in a
The Wine Industry from just over three-quarters to just world in which large supermarkets
in the New and Old World under three-fifths. The Southern Hemi- are becoming ever-more dominant as
The spurt of vineyard plantings from sphere share of global wine produc- outlets for wine sales. If negotiating
the mid-1990s, first in Australia and tion has increased by half since the strength is related to size, small and

6 Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California


medium-sized wineries may struggle
Figure 1. Surplus Indicator: Rising Share of Bulk Wine in Value of Export (%)
in negotiating with such retailers.
60 South Africa
As well, in the United States the
number of wholesale distributors in each Argentina
50
state has fallen dramatically, so there United States
too it may be the biggest wineries that 40 Chile
capture the lion’s share of the import-

Percent
Australia
ers’ attention. On the other hand, listed 30
companies are always under pressure
to deliver good news in their quarterly 20
New Zealand
reports to shareholders, so some of
the large wineries may look to shed 10

assets or even vacate the industry if a


0
long recovery period from the current
2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009
over-supply situation appears likely. Source: World Bank, 2010. World Integrated Trade Solution.
Such moves could provide oppor- Available at: http://wits.worldbank.org/witsweb/ (requires registration).
tunities for those smaller, often industry’s prospects were sufficiently and earlier booms is that the qual-
unlisted firms that are in the busi- dire as recently as 1985 to induce the ity of wine output has improved dra-
ness for the long haul: they may federal and South Australian govern- matically during the past two decades,
be able to acquire selected assets at ments to fund a vine-pull compen- relative to the cost of production.
fire-sale prices, thereby underwrit- sation program to encourage grape For the first time, the industry has
ing their prosperity as the industry growers to move to alternative crops. been in a position to build brand,
recovers from its current surpluses. That long history of fluctuating regional, and varietal images abroad to
fortunes gave reason to expect Aus- capitalize on those improvements in the
Booms and Busts tralia’s latest wine boom would be fol- quality of its grapes and wines. That
The share of bulk wine in a country’s lowed by yet another crash, such as a image building has been partly generic,
table wine exports is a good indicator crash in wine export prices (and thus but mostly from the promotional activi-
of the current oversupply situation winegrape prices), if not in wine pro- ties of individual corporations and their
facing the world wine market. For duction and export volumes as has local representatives abroad. Australian
Australia, since its latest boom began, indeed begun to happen (Figure 2). wines have also over-delivered in terms
bulk shipments were always below The latest boom differs from the of value for money in Northern Hemi-
15%, and for New Zealand below earlier booms in several respects. One sphere markets.
5%. In recent years that share has difference is that the latest boom is over- Australia’s average export price rose
been rising steadily, and by 2004 it whelmingly export-oriented. Another three times greater than the global aver-
was 20% for Australia, the U.S., and major difference between the recent age over the 1990s. However, Australia
Argentina. By 2009 it was 20% for New
Figure 2. Volume and Average Price of Export Sales of Australian Wine,
Zealand, almost 40% for Australia, 1980–81 to 2008–09 (Million Liters and Australian Cents per Liter)
and even higher for other Southern
900 600
Hemisphere exporters (Figure 1). Some
800
Total Wine Exports (million liters)

of these bulk sales are to supermarkets 500


700
Price (cents per liter)

developing their own labels. But much Price


600 400
of that trade is a symptom of over-
supply, and therefore can provide a 500
300
rough indication over time of how far 400 Volume
the industry is out of equilibrium. 300 200
Australia’s wine exports have boomed 200
100
several times in the past. In each case, 100
those booms subsequently plateaued 0 0
9

and the expanded acreage meant grape


1

-07
5

-01
9
7
5
0-8

8-8

2-9
0-9

4-9

8-0
6-9
2-8

2-0

4-0
6-8

8-9
4-8

6
199
199
198

198

199
199
198

200
199

200

200
200
198

200
198

growers and winemakers went back


to receiving low returns. Indeed, the Source: Authors’ derivation from data at www.awbc.com.au.

Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California 7


such as climate change, water and
Figure 3. Volumes of Wine Exports by Price Segment, Australia,
1999–00 to 2008–09 (A$ per Liter, FOB Prices) other environmental policy reforms,
and prospective alcohol tax changes.
400
$2.49 and under Transgenic biotechnology offers much
350 $2.50 to $4.99 promise for accelerating the research
$5.00 to $7.49
300 $7.50 to $9.99 discovery process, but consumer resis-
$10.00 and over
tance to genetic engineering is limiting
250
the exploitation of that opportunity.
200
Million Liters

A return to prosperity for the


150 Southern Hemisphere wine indus-
try is certainly possible, but it is not
100
likely to be fast or easy. Like several
50 competitors, the Australian wine
0 industry is well-positioned to sell in
4

-06
0

-01

8
7

9
3
2

the bulk wine market. The country is


3-0

6-0
4-0

7-0

8-0
9-0

2-0
1-0
0

200
200

200

200
200
200

200

200
199

200
land- and capital-abundant, so it can
Source: Authors’ derivation from data at www.awbc.com.au.
supply large volumes of consistent,
was not alone (that rise was exceeded been the dominant destinations for low-priced, branded premium wine.
by other New World wine export- Australian exports in the past. Australian wine producers also have
ers, albeit from different bases). Since The Asian region in particular shows some advantages in marketing to the
2001, its average export price even in great promise for Australian wineries: expanding Asian market—proximity
nominal terms has fallen (see Figure it is relatively close, Australia already and existing market shares in these
2)—a consequence in part of the Yel- has a strong trade and investment pres- countries. Australian wine quality and
lowtail phenomenon. Moreover, since ence there in other product areas, it is marketing expertise has also increased
2006 the volume of exports has grown booming economically, and the number considerably in recent years, as it has in
only for wines priced below A$2.50 of alumni returning there from Austra- Chile and a few other places. Yet a return
per liter (Figure 3). This is the result lian educational institutions is grow- to prosperity will also require a willing-
of a surge in the share of bulk wine in ing rapidly. The region accounted for ness to continue investing for the long
Australian exports documented earlier. barely 5% of Australia’s wine exports term, especially in R&D and marketing.
until a few years ago, but since then
Australian Efforts to sales have grown rapidly. With per
Kym Anderson is the George Gollin Professor
Strengthen its Competitive Edge capita consumption still very low in of Economics at the University of Adelaide and
Looking beyond the immediate dif- Asia, there is considerable potential for affiliated with the Wine Economics Research
Centre at the University of Adelaide. He can be
ficulties, there are reasons to be cau- steady long-term growth in demand
contacted by e-mail at kym.anderson@adelaide.
tiously optimistic about the future for and in returns from marketing invest- edu.au.
wine industries in some regions. Major ments. Several of these characteristics
adjustments will be required for many apply to other New World wine export-
For further information, the author
participants. However, if there is a will- ers, including Chile and California.
recommends the following:
ingness to continue to invest for the During the past two decades, the
Anderson, K. 2010. “Contributions of
long term (rather than just focusing Australian wine industry improved its
the Innovation System to Australia’s
on quarterly returns to shareholders), competitiveness in no small measure by Wine Industry Growth,” Ch. 4 in
and if the earlier spirit of collaboration large investments not only in vineyards, Innovation and Technological Catch-
within the industry can be re-invigo- wineries and wine marketing, but also Up: The Changing Geography of Wine
rated, a return to at least normal levels in the creation and dissemination of Production, edited by E. Giuliani, A.
of profitability should be possible. production and market knowledge. Morrison and R. Rabellotti, London:
Edward Elgar (forthcoming).
For Australia, another needed Investments in R&D has been espe-
change that is beginning to show cially important for competitiveness. Intangible Business. 2010. “The Power
100: The World’s Most Powerful
up in the statistics involves diver- The return to R&D in the next two
Spirits and Wine Brands, 2010.”
sifying exports beyond the four decades may be even higher than in London: Intangible Business. www.
English-speaking countries that have the past, bearing in mind marketplace drinkspowerbrands.com.
changes and long-term uncertainties

8 Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California


European Wine Market Issues and Prospects in the
Context of the Changes to the Common Market Organization for Wine
Étienne Montaigne
winegrape acreage, by removing vines, widened in recent years. In the
is designed to lead to smaller harvests. 2008/2009 wine year, the EU produced
The European Union introduced its
The CMO will also include sup- 17.3 billion liters, including about
new Common Market Organization
(CMO) to reduce production, reduce port programs aimed to increase the 10.5 billion liters of ordinary wine
government disposal, and increase competitiveness of the European wine and 6.8 billion liters of higher qual-
market demand for low-priced wines. industry through promotion, a single- ity wines. That year, EU consumption
It is not clear if European wine exports payment program, and increased amounted to 13.5 billion liters of wine.
will decrease as a result of the CMO. investment. New regulatory measures In 2006, the last year for which con-
in the CMO are also intended to help sistent data are readily available, the EU

T
he European wine market has revitalize the European wine industry. wine industry exported 6.2 billion liters
undergone two recent economic of wine, of which about 4.5 billion liters
dislocations. The first started Supply, Demand and were shipped within the EU, and about
in 2004, with oversupply of wine on Trade Background 1.7 billion liters were exported to coun-
world markets, and the impact of this Viticulture is a traditional and impor- tries outside the EU. In 2006, coun-
oversupply continues to affect mainly tant European agricultural activity, tries in the European Union imported
low-cost wines. The second slump particularly in the south of Europe 5.8 billion liters, of which 1.2 billion
started in 2008, with the global finan- and in the new member states of the liters came from non-EU countries.
cial crisis and recession in Europe southern central and Eastern Euro- European viticulture is facing global
and America, which reduced incomes pean countries. In the EU, Spain competition and the wine industry
and increased uncertainty. The high- has about 30% of the European must adapt to a changing world. During
quality wines, such as Champagne and winegrape area, whereas France has the last half-century, vineyard area has
the famous wines of Burgundy and 20%, and Italy 22% (Figure 1). been decreasing in Europe, but still the
Bordeaux, were the most significantly The gap between European wine large Mediterranean countries account
affected by this “demand shock.” production and consumption has for most of the winegrape area. (The
The long-evolving changes to the
Figure 1. Area Occupied by European Vineyards, in Thousand Hectares, 2009
European Union (EU) Common Market
Organization for wine (CMO) were Others
485
finally agreed to in 2008 in the context
Spain
of these severe market concerns. These 1,113
policy and program changes have not Romania
205
yet been fully implemented, but are
intended to improve the economic
prospects of EU producers by reducing
Portugal
overproduction and increasing the com- 243
petitiveness of EU wines on the world
market. Under the CMO, member states
Total = 3,704
in the EU that produce wine, such as
thousand
Spain or France, choose a set of specific hectares
mechanisms among a common “menu.”
The most important program is
the replacement of up to 175,000
Italy
hectares of winegrapes with other 818
France
crops in just four years. Currently, 840
planting of vines is tightly restricted
to specific parcels of land in most Source: OIV 2010.
regions. Therefore, this removal of Note: Includes vat vines, table wines, dried grapes, in production or awaiting production.

Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California 9


relatively low one-time incentive and
Figure 2. European Wine Exports by Country, 1960–2008
will attract only relatively low-yield
2.5
areas that produced low-priced wines,
and areas that might have shifted out
2.0 Italy of grape production in any case. These
France
funds were provided to member states
Spain
Germany to distribute according to their own
1.5
national specifications to meet the
Billion Liters

purposes of the new policy. Given its


1.0 large acreage of low-priced wine and
low-yielding vines, Spain alone received
half of the program’s budget in the
0.5 first year. Italy received about one-
fourth of the funds, consistent with its
0 grape area within the EU (Figure 3).
Another aspect of the new CMO is
2

6
8
0
2

8
0

0
2

2
4
4

6
8
6
6

6
8

4
4

8
0
197
197
197

199
196

197

198
198

198
196

197

199
196

198

198

199

199

200
199
196

200
196

200

200
200
support programs with a budget of €5.3
Source: OIV 2010. Note: Including trade within Europe. billion between 2009 and 2013. During
changing role of Europe and countries that period, the most important com-
Changes in EU Wine Policies
within Europe in global wine produc- ponents of the support programs are
tion and consumption was highlighted In response to the continuing demand restructuring, promotion and invest-
in the Sumner article in this issue.) and supply situation that has left many ment, which make up a combined
As shown in Figure 2, wine exports producers with market losses, and to 60% of the program’s budget. Distil-
from France and Italy have stabilized help prevent market “oversupply,” the lation and other programs to remove
over the last decade, while exports European Union introduced changes in wine from the market have a reduced
from Spain have almost tripled. Look- the CMO for wine. The new CMO for role in the new CMO and account for
ing beyond these countries, however, wine was implemented during the about 21% of the support programs
one can see that among the most council meeting on agricultural and budget before the scheduled phase-out
important supply issues facing Euro- fisheries policy in December 2007, and of distillation by 2013. Currently, the
pean producers is the increasing role is specified through the two official budget provides about €910 million for
of imports from outside Europe. texts which offer guidelines for imple- potable alcohol distillation, by-product
The European wine industry is also mentation. As noted above, the new distillation, or crisis distillation. In
facing changes in demand for wine. policy includes policies to remove the past, these distillation plans have
Two trends characterize observed winegrape acreage, eliminate product utilized up to 5% of wine volume in
per capita consumption patterns. removal, support demand, and revise member states (FAS 2004), diverting
Many traditional wine-producing regulations. this amount from the wine market.
countries of the southern EU have The proposal to remove wine- The Single Payment Scheme (available
greatly reduced per capita and total grape vineyards from production is across essentially all crop areas and
consumption of wine. Conversely, voluntary and gives grape growers a designed to be compatible with World
other European countries, includ- financial incentive to pull their vines. Trade Organization (WTO) commit-
ing Germany, continue to show rising The subsidy is available to all EU ments), together with harvest insur-
per capita wine consumption. producers in member countries that ance, mutual funds, and green harvest-
Although European wine produc- produce more than five million liters ing (removal of immature grapes), are
tion has been falling, consumption of wine and targets an area of about limited to 15% of the support budget.
has fallen more rapidly, contribut- 175,000 hectares (or about 5% of EU The choice among support programs
ing to the large European and global winegrape area) to be removed from allows member countries to select dif-
gap between wine production and wine production. The 2009 budget for ferent paths towards adjustment. The
consumption. As a result, there has this removal plan was €464 million— Single Payment Program support is
been no commercial market for many about 5% of the value of total EU wine utilized mainly by Spain, while support
wines at any acceptable price con- exports in 2008, or €2,650 per hectare, for concentrated grape must, which
sistent with costs of production. or $1,400 per acre. Clearly, this is a removes wine from the market, is

10 Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California


utilized by France and Italy. There are
Figure 3. EU Budget for Removal of Land Under Wine Grape Cultivation, 2008–2009
payments for green harvesting, which
also removes production from the
Italy
market and occurs primarily in Italy. 116
Overall, the CMO allows each
member state a large degree of freedom Others
10
in spending its budget, which may be Greece
thought of as a form of “nationaliza- 7

tion” of the common wine policy. Hungary Spain


There is also a large historical effect 10 236
on reform, in the sense that former Portugal
14
budget amounts that were devoted
to wine remain in place. The new France
CMO for wine did not achieve budget 71
savings for the European Union.
The CMO reform also includes new
Total
regulatory measures. Among these 464 m Euro
measures, the planting-rights regime is
one of the most controversial. There is Source: European Commission 2008.
currently a prohibition of new plant-
ings of vines until December 31, 2015. crops to be grown on this acreage. the market. Uncertainty regarding
The new planting rights will allow wine Moreover, the politics and some of the the impacts of these counteracting
producers to plant vines after the mora- economics of the new CMO are now measures means it is impossible to
torium expires, but this decision was more “agricultural” than specific to know whether European wine pro-
postponed until 2016. Growers who wine. duction and exports will increase or
produce wines in delimited areas with Since the 1980s, the European wine decrease as a result of the new CMO.
protected designation of origin believe industry has faced increased produc-
that uncontrolled and unlimited wine- tion against a declining demand in Étienne Montaigne is a Professor of Food
grape plantings will result in overpro- European countries. Exports from Economics and currently scientific administrator
duction and a fall in perceived quality. European wine producers increased in the Agricultural Mediterranean Institute
during this period, but increased of Montpellier (IAMM) in France. He can be
Conclusions competition from producers outside contacted by e-mail at montaigne@iamm.fr.

The new wine CMO represents a set of of Europe limit this expansion.
compromises between the 27 member The CMO is intended to achieve
states. The CMO is not really a uni- a better balance between supply and For further information, the
fied policy, and every member state demand on the European market. How- author recommends the following:
is attempting to obtain as much as it ever, it is difficult to estimate the over- U.S. Department of Agriculture,
can from the new policy and budget. all effects of these policies on European Foreign Agricultural Service
The CMO is a step towards a common wine exports and production. Some 2009. EU-27 Wine Annual Report
agricultural policy for wine in Europe measures of the CMO will likely reduce 2009. GAIN Report Number:
that is “WTO compatible.” None- wine production. Removal of vineyards E49021. www.fas.usda.gov/gain-
theless, the CMO allows a degree of from production and the reduced role files/200903/146327359.pdf.
“nationalization,” and member states of some support programs decrease the Brunke, H., R. Mueller and D.A.
can influence policy by demonstrat- incentive for growers to overproduce. Sumner. 2008. “California
ing the relevance to their own situa- However, other measures of the Wine and the EU Wine Policy
tion. At the same time, many of the CMO stimulate production. These Reform.” AIC Issues Brief no. 34.
most controversial aspects of the CMO include domestic and export promo- Available at: http://aic.ucdavis.
have been delayed for the transition. tion, and changes to the planting- edu/pub/briefs/brief34.pdf.
The new CMO has succeeded in rights-regime. In addition, phas-
encouraging the removal of many vine- ing out (or down) the distillation
yards from production, allowing other program allows more wine to enter

Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California 11


Looking Forward: Imagining the Market For California Wine in 2030
James T. Lapsely

21 after the start of the 21st century, extraordinarily high. The World Health
will be well along in their careers and Organization’s Global Status Report
Per capita consumption is increasing in raising families. According to projec- on Alcohol 2004 shows Germany with
the United States as the demographic
tions from the U.S. Census Bureau, the 5.1% abstinence, followed by France
make-up of wine drinkers is changing.
United States’ population will grow at 6.3%, the UK at 12%, and Japan at
Sales will be higher in 2030, but costs
by 20%, from approximately 310 mil- 13.5%. Canada, which is perhaps most
in California and increased branding
of bulk imports mean a higher share lion in 2010 to 373 million in 2030. similar to the United States, has one of
of wine may come from imports. The country will be more ethnically the highest rates of abstinence at 22%,
diverse and older. Almost 20% of the but that is still about half the rate of that
population will be over 65, as com- of the United States. If, during the next
pared to 13% in 2010. The proportion two decades, abstinence dropped from
of the population considered “white” 43% to even 30% of the adult popula-
will have shrunk from 66% to 57% tion, an additional 27 million drink-
and increased in actual number by 7 ers would be added to the market.

I
n 2010, the United States was the million, contributing just over 11% of Of those Americans who say they
largest wine market by value and set the population increase. By contrast, consume some alcohol, slightly over
to overtake France in volume. Of the other ethnic groups will increase their half (30% of all adult Americans) con-
wine consumed by U.S. consumers, 30% share: Asian-Americans will constitute sume wine. Americans who drink wine
came from outside the United States. 7% of the population compared to 5% split roughly 50/50 between so-called
In 2009, according to Wine Institute in 2010; African-Americans will have “core” consumers—those Americans
figures, California supplied 61% of all grown slightly from 12% to 13%; and who consume at least one glass of
wine sold in the United States and the Hispanics are projected to grow to 23% wine per week—and the “marginal
U.S. market accounted for approxi- of the population, an increase to 86 consumers” who consume less than
mately 83% of California’s total sales million from their current 50 million. one glass a wine of per week. Accord-
that year. Wines retailing for less than Wine consumed is a product of ing to the 2009 Wine Market Council
$9.25 per liter (about $7 per bottle) per capita consumption multiplied by survey, the core consumers are the
constituted 72% of the total market, population of drinking age. In 2010 key market for wine, responsible for
with over 30% of the market retailing at there are approximately 220 million 91% of all wine consumed. As in any
under $3.96 per liter. California exports Americans of legal drinking age, and population, core consumers are not a
were also relatively low value: of the that number is expected to increase homogeneous group. Some drink only
approximately 378.5 million liters of by almost 22% to 268 million, which one glass of wine a week, while others
California wine exported, roughly half would imply a market of about 2.97 consume wine daily. Collectively, core
was shipped in bulk with a value of just billion liters of table wine—up from consumers are about 34 million in
over $1 a liter, while exported bottled the current total of 2.45 billion liters number and average 70 liters of wine
wine averaged just over $3 a liter. Much in 2008. To refine this projection per person per year (roughly one glass
of this article, therefore, focuses on requires reviewing some history and of wine per day). Clearly, core consum-
the large volume market for relatively some recent consumption patterns. ers are key to the U.S. wine market.
low-priced wine. What might demand According to studies contracted The ethnicity of current core con-
and supply be like in twenty years? by the Wine Market Council, in 2009 sumers differs from that of the general
approximately 43% of adult Ameri- population. Currently, Caucasians,
The Market for U.S. Wine in 2030 cans claim not to consume alcohol in which represent 66% of the general
In 2030 the last of the Baby Boomers, a any form. This level of abstinence has population (assuming that Hispanics
77 million-strong cohort that has driven remained fairly constant at around 40% are considered separate from Cauca-
American marketing trends for the past since 1994, when the Wine Market sians), account for 84% of core con-
50 years, will turn 65. Their children, Council commissioned its first study. sumers. African-Americans account for
the so-called Millennials, a cohort of Compared with other developed coun- approximately 5% of core consump-
approximately 70 million that turned tries, America’s level of abstinence is tion, but represent just over 12% of the

12 Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California


general population. Asian-Americans
Table 1. Core Wine Consumers in 2030
are 7% of core consumers while only
5% of the general population. Hispan- Share in Share in Population, Core Consumers,
Group Core, 2010 Core, 2030 2030 2030
ics, at 59 million people, represent
16% of the United States’ population, (Percent) (Millions)
but are only 4% of core consumers. Caucasian 13.9 16 212 33.9
Considering that the Hispanic popu- African-American 4.3 4.5 48 2.2
lation in the United States is expected Asian-American 14.8 16 27 4.3
to increase by over 70% in the next 20 Hispanic 3.2 8 86 6.8
years to 86 million, and is predicted to Total 47.2
account for over 50% of the total popula- Source: Based on projections from U.S. Census and wine consumption survey data as described in the text.
tion increase, it is clear that straight-line Note: The percent of core consumers are shares of the total population (including those under 21 years of
age) since Bureau of Census projections broken out by both age group and ethnicity were not available.
projections of total wine volume are
suspect, and the nature of wine drinking between core and marginal consumers, Supply
among the Hispanic population must be then core consumers would grow to Low-cost wines must come from inex-
taken into account. In 2006, the Wine between 18–19% of the adult population pensive grapes, and most of Califor-
Market Council contracted with Epe- and marginal consumers would account nia’s production comes from the San
rian-Simmons, a market research com- for 16%. If core consumers continue to Joaquin Valley. Crush districts 12, 13
pany, to study Hispanic consumers. Not account for 90% of total wine consump- and 14, which constitute the Central
surprisingly, they found that Hispanic tion and they remain at their current Valley south of the Delta to Bakersfield,
wine consumers tended to have achieved average of 70 liters, the total table wine produced 52% of all grapes crushed in
higher levels of education and be profes- market in 2030 would be 3.67 bil- 2009. District 13, which is composed
sionally employed than were Hispanic lion liters, or 0.54 to 0.63 billion liters of Fresno, Madera and Tulare counties,
non-wine consumers. About 23% of His- higher than a straight-line projection alone accounted for almost one-third of
panics in this 2005 survey drank wine as based solely on population growth. all of California’s winegrape production.
opposed to 34% of the general market; Of course, wine consumption has A 2030 market of 3.67 billion liters
however, younger Hispanics, those gone in and out of fashion in the United of table wine means that the U.S. market
under 40 years old, were a significantly States. During the 1980s, per capita would expand by 1.13 billion liters,
larger portion of the Hispanic market consumption of wine declined, but requiring approximately 1.75 million
for wine than were their age counter- increased again in the 1990s. Lack of tons of grapes. Assuming that California
parts in the general market. In addi- industry advertising, tougher laws des- supplied 60% of that increase and that
tion, they consumed about one more ignating lower blood alcohol levels for half of the volume retailed for under $5,
glass of wine a month than did their driving under the influence, government then the southern San Joaquin Valley
age counterparts in the general market. warning labels on alcoholic beverages, would need to expand its production
Hispanic wine drinkers also seem to be and a government-sponsored “war on by about 500,000 tons, which would
more acculturated than Hispanics that drugs” have often been suggested as con- require an additional 42,000 acres at a
do not drink wine: 56% of Hispanic wine tributing to the decline in per capita con- yield of 12 tons per acre. Hence, using
drinkers preferred to speak English as sumption in the 1980s. But the 1980s these estimates, unless yield were further
opposed to 41% of Hispanics who are was also the time when Baby Boomers increased, acreage in the San Joaquin
not wine drinkers. Note, however, that were home with children—and stud- Valley would need to expand by about
approximately half of the increase in the ies have repeatedly shown that house- 30% to satisfy this additional demand.
number of Hispanics will come from holds with children have lower rates The recent trend in winegrape acre-
immigration, and wine consumption of wine consumption than do similar age in the region is actually down not
among this group will continue to lag. households with no children. In 2030, up. After reaching a peak of 182,000
Millennials in all ethnic groups are the older Millennials will be in their acres in 2001, acreage fell to 150,000 in
adopting wine at a higher rate than child-rearing years and it is possible 2005 and further to 140,000 in 2009 for
did their parents, and ethnic composi- that per capita consumption will again the San Joaquin Valley crush districts 12,
tion is changing, so it seems likely that decline. That said, it seems more likely 13 and 14. Table 2 shows some of what
the share of abstainers will decline. If that wine consumption in the United was behind the decline in winegrape
half the new consumers buy wine and States will converge gradually toward acreage. For the seven valley counties
that new group is split roughly in half the norm in other developed nations. that comprise the bulk of the acres for

Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California 13


lower-priced grapes, acreage of wine- As we consider the market for wine
Table 2. Acreage Change for
grapes fell by about 11,000 acres from in 2030, it is useful to consider what Winegrapes and Alternative Crops1
2005 to 2009 while acreage of tree nuts, resources are available as inputs to the
Change in Acreage
especially almonds and pistachios, rose. additional production needed to supply Crop
2005–2009
Table 3 indicates some of the eco- the expanding market in the United Winegrapes -10,752
nomics behind these acreage shifts. The States. Many believe that irrigation
Almonds 128,183
data presented are derived from cost water will become scarcer and more 2
Pistachios 28,852
studies prepared under the direction expensive in California. Agricultural
Walnuts 1,838
of Karen Klonsky by the Cooperative water prices vary from under $10 per 1
Central Valley south of San Joaquin County.
Extension staff at UC Davis and in the acre-foot in some locations to over 2
Stanislaus does not report pistachios separately.
region. Each column shows informa- $100 an acre-foot (when available) in Sources: CDFA. Grape Crush Report. 2010.
California County Agricultural Commissioners’
tion for the most recent cost study for some districts on the west side of the Data. 2009.
each crop in the region. Comparing San Joaquin Valley. Winegrapes require
across the crops, we find that wine- less water per acre or per unit of value third of wine revenue, as did the wines
grapes had total revenue per acre for the than many other crops. This may sug- retailing between $7–$14 per bottle
“typical case” that was well below total gest some advantage to a shift towards and wine retailing below $7 a bottle.
costs. Table grapes also showed nega- winegrapes over the next two decades. Most analysts agree that sales of ex-
tive net revenue, while returns were However, growers in crush districts pensive wines have expanded rapidly
strongly positive for the tree nuts. 13 and 14 do not yet seem to be plant- over the past 20 years. This view is re-
Of course, there is considerable ing new vineyards. Of the approximately flected in the increase in the number of
variation across specific locations and 105,000 acres of winegrapes in the wineries in California. Only a few win-
farms, and winegrape prices have risen region, 93,000 acres were planted prior eries are large enough to have sufficient
above the $200 per ton used in the 2005 to 2001 and will have reached the end economies of scale to produce wine for
study. Nonetheless, the basic message of their normal productive lifespan by the under $7 a bottle market. Most Cali-
of Tables 1 and 2 are clear and con- 2030. With grape prices for inexpen- fornia wineries are small and focused on
sistent. In order to expand winegrape sive wines constrained by international producing expensive wines, and their
production for lower-priced wines, competition and facing increased input number has increased by about 260 per-
innovations are needed to expand costs, it seems likely that some wine- cent from 827 in 1991 to 2,972 in 2009.
yields per acre or otherwise lower costs grape growers in the San Joaquin Valley Expensive wines require flavorful
of production. One positive factor for will turn to other crops when it comes grapes, most of which are produced
winegrapes is that average irrigation time to replant their vineyards. Unless in California’s coastal valleys that are
water use per acre is about 25–60% yields can expand substantially, that cooled by their proximity to the Pacific
below that of other perennial crops. means either higher prices or a higher Ocean. Grapes grown in cooler areas
Wine from grapes grown in the San share of supplies of low-cost wines sup- tend to have higher levels of color, acid-
Joaquin Valley is essentially an undif- plied from other regions of the world. ity, and flavor than do the same variet-
ferentiated commodity in competition ies grown in warmer areas, but they
with similar wine produced around the The Market for also have lower yields per acre. Grapes
world. California accounts for approxi- More Expensive Wines grown in areas such as Napa, Sonoma, or
mately 80% of the world’s production This article has mainly focused on wine San Luis Obispo are significantly more
of almonds and 90% of almonds sold retailing at below $7 a bottle, because expensive than the same varieties grown
in the world export market. By con- such wine constitutes the major share of in California’s warm interior valley. In
trast, California produces 7% of the the U.S. market by volume. Because of 2009 the average price of Cabernet Sau-
world’s wine and only 4% of wine sold the multiplicity of brands’ sales venues, vignon from Napa County was $4,619
in export. The supply of inexpensive it is difficult to track sales of expensive per ton, compared to $2,194 per ton
wine from other countries acts as a wines with precision and estimates of in Sonoma County, and $350 per ton
ceiling on prices for winegrape grow- volume differ. But, by any measure, in Fresno County (crush district 13).
ers. This reality was brought home in higher-priced wine is important to The demand for expensive wines
2009 when over 227 million liters of California. In 2008, industry analyst, (and grapes) has fluctuated with
finished bulk wine, valued on aver- Jon Fredrikson, estimated that the the U.S. economy, but has generally
age at $0.69 per liter, were imported 12% of California wine that retailed at increased over the past twenty years. In
to the United States and bottled here. above $14 a bottle earned roughly one- the almost two decades between 1991

14 Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics • University of California


and 2009, north coast acreage grew by
Table 3. Comparison of Per Acres Revenue and Costs for Wine Grapes and
52% to 128,233 acres, Monterey acre- Alternative Crops in the Central Valley of California, Per Acre Basis
age expanded by 58% to 44,894 acres,
Crop Year of Study Revenue Total Cost Net Returns
and the central coast area of San Luis
Obispo and Santa Barbara counties Winegrapes 2005 $2400 $2834 -$434
increased by 160% to 47,872 acres. Table grapes 2007 $9600 $9652 -$52
Environmental regulations have lim- Almonds* 2006 $4000 $3348 $652
ited the amount of coastal land that Walnuts* 2007 $5100 $4027 $1073
could potentially be converted to vine- Pistachios 2008 $4536 $3680 $856
yards, and areas such as Napa County * Northern San Joaquin Valley
Source: Cost and Return Studies. Agricultural and Resource Economics, UC Davis and
may be essentially fully planted. Other University of California Cooperative Extension. http://coststudies.ucdavis.edu/current.php
coastal areas, although expensive to limit volumes produced and to pursue increase total table wine sales to 3.60
develop, remain available for vineyard direct sales whenever possible. billion liters. California will remain the
expansion if demand for expensive The supply of expensive wines dominant producer within the United
California wine increases enough. has increased, and can continue to States, but it is likely to lose market to
The dramatic increase in the number increase, but ultimately is constrained inexpensive bulk-wine imports. These
of small wineries has created both by demand. Demand for expensive wine wines are likely to be marketed as global
opportunities and problems for indi- seems to expand when the economy brands, with the location of grape supply
vidual firms. The proliferation of win- booms and contract during recessions, of little importance to consumers. This
eries has allowed effective collective especially when asset prices, such as article has also discussed the supply
marketing of regions, varieties and wine the stock market or real estate decline. and demand picture for higher priced
types, resulting in greater consumer During both the economic contrac- wine for which location of produc-
awareness of the fine wine category. The tion following the dot.com bust and tion is a dominant marketing attribute.
Napa Valley Vintners is perhaps the best the most recent recession, quantities These wines, which are largely produced
example of regional marketing and most of every-day wine increased at roughly from coastal grapes, face quite different
other grape-growing regions in Califor- constant prices, while demand for economic drivers on both the supply
nia have attempted to duplicate Napa’s upper-end wine faltered with prices and demand sides of the market.
efforts. While these activities have discounted as inventories rose.
served to expand the market for expen- The vast majority of expensive Cali- James T. Lapsely is an associate adjunct professor
sive wine, the main problem for each fornia wine is sold within the United in the Department of Viticulture and Enology
firm remains competition in what seems States, so this industry is tied to the at UC Davis. He can be reached by e-mail at
jtlapsley@ucdavis.edu.
to have become a saturated market. fortunes of upper-income Americans. Of
There are few barriers to entry in course, the other crucial factor for sales
the California wine business. Today, of California’s fine wine is the percep-
all that a would-be wine-brand owner tion of quality relative to imported wine For further information, the author
needs is money. Expensive grapes from that is also vying for the wine budget of recommends the following:
famous areas can be purchased, exper- the same small segment of high-income Sumner, D.A., H. Bombrun, J. M.
tise hired, barrels leased, and winemak- customers. For this, the fine wine indus- Alston, and D. Heien, 2004. “North
ing outsourced through custom crush. try must vigilantly attend to the qual- America,” Ch.10 in The World’s
Investments in vineyards, experience, Wine Markets: Globalization at
ity of its wine and marketing efforts to
Work, edited by K.Anderson,
and wineries are not necessary, although maintain and enhance its reputation.
London: Edward Elgar.
some owners do choose to establish
their own vineyards or build their own Conclusion CDFA. Grape Crush Report. 2010.
www.nass.usda.gov/Statistics_by_
processing facility. The result generally The U.S. wine market will look differ-
State/California/Publications/Grape_
is technically-sound, highly-extracted, ent in 2030. On the demand side, per Crush/
richly-textured wine, which often tastes capita consumption will increase as
California County Agricultural Com-
very similar to other wines made in the acculturated Hispanics adopt wine and missioners’ Data. 2009. www.nass.
same region and from the same vari- as wine becomes a more integral part usda.gov/Statistics_by_State/Califor-
ety. The proliferation of similar wines of the American culture. Increased per nia/Publications/AgComm/Detail/
has flooded the U.S. distribution and capita consumption combined with index.asp
retail system, forcing brand-owners to population growth could quite possibly

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