Welding Temperature Chart

Material Temperature ºC

ABS/ABS PC 350
PA 400
PBT 350
PC 350
PE hard (HDPE) 300
PE soft (LDPE) 270
PP 300
PP, EPDM 300
PVR 300-350
PVC hard 300
PVC soft 350
XENOY (PC alloy) 350

1
Plastic Welding

Plastic welding comprises a 2 stage operation.

Stage 1 : Tack Welding

To hold the damaged area in alignment for the main weld a special
tacking nozzle is used with the hot air plastic welding gun.

The nozzle tip is applied to the base of the crack and should be inclined
at around 15º from the flat section of the tip to the base of the groove.
DO NOT APPLY ANY GREAT PRESSURE. The tool is drawn in an even
movement along the base of the groove and the hot air softens the
material, whilst the tip presses the soft material together.

During this operation, minor corrections can be made to take into

account misalignment. Once the weld has been made the component
should not be moved until the weld has knit and slightly cooled. After
completing the weld, clean the tip with a wire brush.

Stage 2: Main Weld

The welding rod has been prepared to fit the groove and stage 1 has
been completed.

1. Fit the speed welding nozzle to the hot air tool and let it warm up
for 2-3 minutes.

2. Push the trimmed rod through the nozzle feeder on the top so it
protrudes 3-4mm.

3. Hold the tool so that the sole of the speed weld nozzle is parallel to
and running along the groove. The heat from the gun must be
directed onto the start of the groove.

4. When the edges of the groove show signs of melting (not full melt,
only a trace of dampness), the speed nozzle should be moved so
that the flat nozzle tip rests on the welding rod which by now fills
the start of the groove. Hot air will be distributed between the rod

2
 and the material to be welded, via the air gap at the base of the
tip.

5. Press gently down on the welding rod, at the same time drawing
the tool along the groove.

Note: Light pressure is applied evenly down on the rod. Pressure

should not be applied down on the tool.

If possible, complete the weld in a single run along the groove.

3
Welding

Stage 2: Main Weld (continued)

6. A correct weld is created when the rod melts into the groove and
ridges will appear at the groove edges. At the edge of these ridges
there should be a slight wash, similar to that created by the bow
wave of a ship.

If welding is too slow, material will scorch or overheat causing

distortion.

If welding is too fast, the bow wave effect will not be created and
the weld may not be effective.

7. When the weld has reached the end of the groove and the weld is
complete, let go of the welding rod and slide the remainder
through the nozzle, thus releasing the tool.

Cut the excess rod off the bumper after the weld has cooled.

The finished weld will show as a continual, smooth line along the
groove with the bow wave effect clearly visible. This is
confirmation that the weld is good and the damaged area will be
as strong as the rest of the car bumper.

Should any other impact cracks show up after welding, these

should be treated in the same way.

Reinforcement welds can be done on the reverse side of the

component if required, but preparation rules must be observed.

8. Where cracks or grooves are in tight corners, you may not be able
to use the normal speed weld nozzle, but may have to weld with
the open tip.

FREE HAND WELDING (PENDULUM)

4
After the crack is prepared, as previously described, and the welding rod has
been cut, feed the rod into the groove.

The rod should be held at approximately 90º to the groove vertically. The tool
nozzle is held so as to place heat onto the position where the rod and the groove
meet. The tool will be held approx. 10-15mm from this position and the tip will
be moved in a pendulum motion to direct heat onto the welding rod and into the
groove.

Done correctly, the material and rod will be molten at the fusion point. Feed the
rod along the groove with a gentle downward pressure. The same bow wave
effect should occur and the cutting of the excess rod should be done when the
materials have cooled.

Incorrect/Defective Welds

The table and pictures detail causes of defective welds.

The weld was started correctly but

completed too quickly. No wash
indicates haste or too low a
temperature.

The hot-air tool was not allowed to

attain the correct operating
temperature and the weld was
finished too soon, leaving a hole.

Too much pressure has been applied

to the rod leaving a low and deformed
bead. Filling may be necessary.

The welding temperature was too

high, blistering the sides of the weld.
The repair area may be brittle.

WELDING DEFECTS AND CAUSES

5
Causes of Defective Welds

Defect Reason

Poor rod penetration bad bond Weld site badly prepared

Tool temperature too cool

Use of non compatible material

Weld speed too fast

Incorrect technique

Weld bead, uneven width/depth Pressure not applied to rod evenly,

or rod stretched by tool

Warping Poor preparation

Parts not aligned correctly,

or aligned under stress or tension

WELD FINISHING

When the weld is complete, it should present a smooth, but raised bead
evenly distributed along the weld area of the repaired part.

All repair finishing must take place when the weld is cool.

Plastic is soft and abrades easily, therefore harsh grits or abrasives

should be avoided.

Start with say 120 grade abrasive cloth/paper progressing finer to a

finishing grade of around 320 grade, to allow a fine finish. Leave a
margin of around 15mm, where possible, either side of the weld to allow
for painting.

The material should not be over sanded and made too flat and should be
cleaned well before painting.

For more details please call us on : 01254 660910