320 Chapter 14

Design 1 Design 2
SLEEVES WITH EXTENDED CAPS
Darted Cap
Design Analysis—Design 2
Sleeve extends out from the ball of the arm and is con-
trolled by three darts for Design 2. Design 1 is based on the
same pattern, except that the cap is blended for gathers.
Cap ease can be eliminated, as illustrated, or see page 310
for adjusting the armhole.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1
• Trace the basic sleeve.
• Draw slash lines 2 inches away from the center grain-
line at cap.
• Draw 1/8-inch wedge along each slash line at the cap
(1/16 inch out from each side of notch) to zero at the
grainline of the biceps line. This eliminates some of
the cap ease. Disregard instruction if the armhole has
been adjusted.
• Cut the sleeve from paper. Discard unneeded sections
(shaded area). Figure 2
• Slash from cap to, not through, corners of
Figure 1 the biceps line.
1/16 " • Raise biceps 1 1/4 inches. Spread sections
1/8 " 1/8 " equally and trace.
2" 2"
• Center and mark the dart points 1 1/4 inches
down each opening. Draw dart legs.

Figure 2 1 1/4 "

Biceps
Grainline

Figure 3
• Fold dart legs, cupping pattern to blend cap.
1 1/4 "
Figure 4
• Unfold and mark notches and punch circles.

Figure 3 Figure 4
Blend

Completed darts
Folded darts