SKIRTS/CIRCLES AND CASCADES 239

FLARED SKIRTS
The flared skirt series applies Principle #1, Dart Ma-
nipulation (dart excess transferred to the hemline)
and Principle #2, Added Fullness, to increase the
sweep of the hemline. Flared skirts have a triangular
silhouette.

A-Line Flared Skirt

Design Analysis
The A-line silhouette is one in which the hemline
measures greater than the hip circumference. It is
achieved by transferring the excess of one dart to
the hemline and by adding width at the side seam.
The result is a more rounded effect along the hemline
that provides additional stride room.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figures 1, 2
• Trace front and back basic skirt to preferred
length and hem allowance.
• Draw slash lines from the dart points (nearest
side seams) to hemline and parallel with center
lines. Label A, B and C, D.
• Cut from the paper.
• Cut to, not through, dart points.
• Place on the paper.

Figure 1 Figure 2

FRONT BACK
Center back
Center front
Slash line

Slash line

A B C D
240 Chapter 13

Figure 3 Front Figure 4 Back

• Close dart and trace pattern. • Transfer just enough excess from waist dart to
• Label flare at hem A and B. hemline so that space C–D equals A–B space of
front skirt. Remaining dart excess is taken up
A-Line Silhouette equally on each side by the other dart (broken
lines ! original dart leg).
• Label side seam at hem X.
• Trace, adding to side seam using X, Y, Z instruc-
• X–Y ! one-half of A–B space. Mark. tions (Figure 3).
• Draw a line from Y to the outermost part of the • Before completing the patterns, make one set
hipline. Where lines intersect, label Z. seamless for manipulation and a seamed pattern
• Z–Y ! Z–X length. Square in from Y just past X. set for the design garment. Choose the type of
• Draw blending line along hem. skirt desired from Fig. 5 list.

Figure 3 Figure 4
Close dart

Transfer remaining
excess to dart

Blend Z Z Blend

FRONT BACK
Center fornt

Center back

X Y
Y X D
A C
Trim B

Figure 5
Figure 5
Choices for type of skirt
desired.
1. Front and back skirt cut
on fold.
2. Front skirt cut on fold and FRONT
FLARE BACK
back skirt seamed. FLARE
SKIRT
3. Center back and front skirt SKIRT
seamed, creating a 4-gore
skirt. See Figure 5.
Draw grainline, add notches and
complete for a test fit.

• See page 294 for instruction

on the effects that the grain-
line has on flare placement. Hem
1/2 " to 1 "