Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Elllllilil
flil
contents
WOODamagazine October
2001,lssue136
50 customcabinetmaking
Learnhow to plan,buy materialsfor,
and buildbeautifulbaseand wall
cabinetsfor all your storageneeds.
60 installingcabinets
Useour guidefor levelplacementof
wall and basecabinets.
u the integratedkitchen
Faceyourapplianceswithwood
panelsthat matchyourcabinets.
68 craftinga countertop
Finishoff basecabinetswithan easy-
to-cleanplasticlaminatetop andyour
choiceof attractiveedgetreatments.
72 adaptabledisplaycabinet
Hungin the kitchenor anotherroom,
this lighted,glass-frontshowcase
givescollectiblesa stylishperch.
78 glasswith class
Givean ordinarywindowextraordi-
narylookswitha falsetransom.
80 chippendalemirror
Findthe full-sizepatternsfor this
handsome antiquedesigninside.
90 nightstand
Putyourbiscuitjoinerto workon this
one-drawerbedroomtable.
wwuawoodonline.com
contents2001,lssue136
departments
6 editor'sangle
8 wood onlineo
12 talkingback
18 furniturerepairshop
finish
Renewan old,dull,furniture
blend.
withan oil-varnish
n grcat ideas:patternsander
Trya dead-onwayto duplicatewood
projectparts.
24 be our guestexpert
Pickup tricksfromscrollsawguru
RickHutcheson.
26 the buisnessof woodworking
Tootyourhornin writingto help
customersunderstand who you are.
?a perfectfinish
Letyourfurniturewax eloquentwith
products.
thesepost-finishing
32 router bits: copycatcutters
Makeidenticalpartsusingtemplates
andthesepilotedflush-trimmers.
u ask wood
38 shoptips
96 productsthat perform
fr2 wood anecdote:persimmon
112 what'saheadin our next issue
herets Managing
Projects
Products
EditorMABLEI|
EditorJANHALE
EditorDAVE
Techniques
KEMMET
SVEC
CAMPBELT
EditorJIMP0LtOCl( I
whatts
I
DesignEditorKEVlll B0YLE I
Design EditorKEI{T WELSH I
Master Craftsman GHARLES L HEDIUIID I
I
cookint Production/Office
Manager
Assistant
Administrative
Reader-Contact
lllustrators
MARGARET
SHERYL
Specialist
t0Rl{AJ0HilSOll,
CL0SI{ER
MUilY0ll
BEllVONRUDEII
ROXAl{ilE LeMOlllE,
I
I
I
a
more pocket money---{ash that could go You'll evenlearn a thing or two about Maguine President
Group JERRYKAPLAI{ I
I
Group
SalesMICHAELBR0tlrllSTElll It
toward tools or other toys. decorativepainting.
Of course,the beauty of updating a Our expandedcoveragealso carries over
Creative
Business
ELLEII
Services
Development
DETATH0UDER
TlllAGE0RGE0U i
Manufacturing
BRUCE HEST0]{
kitchen is that you can do as little or as to the next issueof WOOD. In November ConsumerMarketing
KARLA JEFFRIES
much as you like. Either way, domestic you'lllearn how to build a room divider Finance MAXRul{CllvlAl{
andAdministration
tranquility is virtually assured. like the one at the end of the kitchen /Uleredfth
To help make you a kitchen-rehabhero, oppositethe range.(Seepage I 12 for a I COBPORATION
the staff and I gutted an existing kitchen photo.)By simply varying the length of WlLtlAMT.KERR, andChiefExecutive
President Officer
and gave it a total woodworking face-Iift. the archedbulkhead,you can adaptthe E.T.MEREDITH oftheExecutive
lll, Chairman Committee
I think you'll find the resultsimpressive- divider to fit your own home's interior. OCopyrightMeredith 2001
Corporation
All rightsreserved.Printedin the U.S.A.
just rememberthat you don't have to take The columnsare veneer-covered tubes
Customer Service Inforrnation: For service on your sub-
suchextrememeasuresin your own home. you buy-no staveconsffuction or furn- scription, including change of address, contact us at
www.woodmagazine.com/service or call ffi01374-9663.
We did a completerenovationbecause ing necessary. Subscription mailing address: Befter Homes and Gardens
that's the bestway to showyou asmany May you enjoy this specialsectionas WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439,Boone. IA 50037-0439.
Please enclose your address label from a recent issue.Blitorial
projects and techniquesas possible.And, much as we did in putting it together.I nailing address:The Editor, WOOD magazine, 1716 Locust
Street, GA3l0, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. For questions
in the process,you can seehow the cabi- hope our efforts will help bring a beam- on editorial, questions about how to reach an advertiser, or to
place an advertisement in our magazine call Efi)/374-9663.
nety, countertops,appliances,flooring, ing smile to that special someonewho To order back issues catl 8ffi/36-9663. Article reprints,
and other kitchen elementscome together spendstime in your kitchen. send $5 per article (no phone orders), include issue and name
of article, to WOOD Article Reprint Service, P.O. Box 349,
in a unified whole. We made surethe Kalona, IA 52247, check or money order made payable to
WOOD magazine.
information provided is as user-friendly
and adaptableas you'll find anywhere. Y^!Ay^;e,v t6 ^tP^l
WOOD magazine October 2001
rrvood online.
bygoingto www.woodonline,com
Howyoubenefit
talkin andtimelyupdates
back
boardforletters,
0urbulletin comments,
March2002 issue.
11/2x11/2x96"
An easy adiustment for 24"
oil-v?rnish blend
powerlul
potion
for dull
finishes
An antique's finishoften
looksdulland lifeless. But
strippingoffthe old and lay-
ingon a shinynewcoating
mightrobthe pieceof both
charmand monetary value.
Here'san alternative.
blend,often referredto as Bring a satin sheen to an old, dulled surface by applying an oil-varnish blend
fiit-varnish right over the existing finish. lt's compatible with virtually all furniture finishes.
VDanish oil or antiqueoil finish,
offers an effectivemeansof hiding minor
surfaceflaws and restoringsheento dull the surface.)In many cases,an oil-varnish desktops,and otherheavily usedsurfaces
finishes.And it's an easyfix, too: Just productcan color deeplyscarredspots. wherethe soft finish might not give
cleanthe surface(a spray-onhousehold This techniqueworkswell on legs, enoughabrasionresistance.You probably
cleanerworksfine), rub the finish on as doors,drawerfronts,cabinetsides,skirts, would be befferoff to shineup the surface
shownin the photo,then wipe off the panels,and other suchfurnitureparts.It with pastewax in thesesituations.'l
excess.Rubbingoff all the excessis the couldprovelesssuccessful on tabletops, Photograph: Baldwin Photography
pattern
sander
Leta templateensure
results
safe,repeatable
always
ona
scroll
Lots of woodworkers
own a scrollsaw,but
Rick Hutcheson goes
way beyondthat.The
first floor of his two- ken blade. .Gontrol dust with a nearby .Patterns can come from downloadable
level workshopin dust filter or, better yet, take it right off Web sites,from computer software,or
Grimes,Iowa, displaysa row of newer the table with a collector. Some new simply from children'scoloring books.
scrollsawsthat he'll readily evaluatefor models include attachmentsthat accepta To make a peffnanentpattern,cut it out
you, featureby feature.And upstairs, shopvacuumhose.oDon't wear loose in plasticlaminate..A magnifier light
along with tablesfull of finishedprojects, sleeves or any jewelry that could get helpsyou follow fine details,but can be
you'll find a museum'sworth of old, even tangledin the blade.If you have long tricky to use,so try it beforeyou buy it.
antique,scrollsaws. hair, tie it back. Rick recommendsthe kind with a fluores-
We askedRick, our scrollsawing centring.i
expertfor the pastdecade,to passalong Stock up on these
Photographs:Baldwin Photography;
sometips for thosenew to the craft. To .A small assortment of blades will Jim Kascoutas l:: l:iii,Tli?li:r?,1&i!ii
find out more, go to his Web site, handleany situation.Rick relies on very lllustrations:Brian Jensen . . *.,+r:r',
Stay safe
.Wear safety glasses to guardagainst
flying wood chips or the piecesof a bro-
24
the business side of
rruoodworking
make a case
for your work
Artistinformation statementshelpwoodworkers
telltheirstoriesto potentialcustomers
copycat
cutters
parts-
Makeidentical
evencurvyones-
withflush-trim
\.. routerbits
Flush-
trim bit
Cutting across the grain can cause the bit to become grabby and may result in burn-
ing. Bandsawing your rough workpiece close to the pattern line reduces the risk.
f,s the namesuggests, a flush- - Gopy right , With a flush-trimbit in your table-
htrim routerbit cutsthe edseof one Whenit comesto duplicatingparts- i mountedrouter,setthe cuttingdeptha lit-
workpieceperfectlyflush with the one to especially curvedparts-you just can't i tle deeperthanthe thicknessof the work-
which it's attached.Thosetwo workpieces beata flush-trimbit. That'sbecausethe , piece,asshownin thephotoabove.Rour
couldbe plasticlaminateanda countertop, bearingandbit preciselyfollow every r the template/workpiece assembly,tem-
edgebandingand a cabinet,or a template curveof the template.But, beforeyou can i platesideup, cuttingwith the grainas
and a rough-sizedpart.To accomplishthis startreproducing,you needa part or pat- r muchaspossible.
feat, the bottom-mountedbearing-so- tern to reproduce.
calledbecauseof its orientationin a hand- If we needto makemultiplematch-
held router-matches the cuttine diameter ing partsin the WOODamagazine
of the bit. shop,we'll oftenmakea patternor
Note: A pattern bit (bottombit, above), templateout of hardboardor medium-
sometimes calleda "top-bearingflush- densityfiberboard(MDF). That way,
trim bit," also excelsat duplicatingparts. we makeour mistakesin less-
And, becausethe businessendof thepat- expensivematerialandkeepprecious
tern bit is unimpededby a bearing,it also projectstockfrom the scrappile.
can be usedfor dado-likecuts.However, Onceperfected,tracethe pattern/tem-
this s\le of bit doesn'tworkfor trimming plateonto your workpiece.Cut the
laminateor edgebanding. workpieceto roughshapeon your
Flush-trimbits comein t/c-34"diameters bandsaw,cutting t/s"or lessoutsidethe Base
andlengthsof Vz-2". Better(andmore tracedline.Bandsawcloseto the line
expensive)bits havea slightshearangle whereveryou crossendgrain. Plastic laminate
to their cuttingedgesthat impartsa much (Leavinglessmaterialherehelpskeep
cleaneredgeon your workpiece.That's the bit's speedhigh andreducesfuz-
especiallyimportantwhenworking with zing andburning.)Now, attachyour
Keep the bearing in light contact with the
solid-stockend grainor chip-proneplastic templateto the rough-cutworkpiece base material when routing. Too much pres-
laminates. usingcloth-backed double-facedtape. sure can mar the workpiece.
www.woodonline.com
askwood
to yourquestions
Answers fromletters,
e-mails,
andW00DONL|NEo
-Philip Morris,Katy,Texas ii
&
In search of
CAD software
f, Phil, we checked
Fl with finishing guru
Bob Flexner.He says
A I wouldliketo find a
U computer-aided design t
t
you shouldhave stuck (CAD)softwareprogram
with the aniline dye. pricedfor
that'sreasonably
i ii. ;r,...:'i'iL i*i', r,t
Keep addingcoatsof dye, a homewoodworker. What "',
: i : ! ! ! . ! . 1
i-'
; i' tt
letting each one dry do you recommend? ,,,,j.:'ii'
beforecontinuing,until -Patrick Wagner,
Slinger,Wis. We used CAD technology to create
you arrive at the the overhead view of the kitchen
remodeling project featured in this
desiredresult. A Here at WOOD maga- issueof WOOD.
F zine.Pat.ourdesisners
useDesignCAD3000.iou A Checkout AutoCadLight. I usethe
cango to www.designcad.com l{ futt-Ulownversion,bur the light
to buy the newest, versionis greatand costsless-about
upgradedversion, $650.Thereare severalCAD programs
DesignCAD3D out there,but I'm sold on AutoCad.You
MAX. for 5299. can find info at www.Autodesk.com.
-{IV00D magazine -Ernie Stutz,Wichita
Falls,
Texas
A l,fi:i.i:?:oo
How best to frame
about$40. It was the an ocean vievu?
only one out of many that n
ll
l'm remaking someold wooden
I found easyto use.You can \t windowsfor a friend'sbeach
download a free trial ver- house.Hehassomeeasternred cedar,
sion, good for 45 days,at but l'm not so sureit's the bestchoice.
www.dcad.com. Woulda deckingmaterial, suchas
-Bob Best,NiagaraFalls, treatedpine,be a goodchoicefor salt
Ont, Canada spray,rain,andsun?lf not,what'sthe
Continued on page 36
WOOD magazine October 2001
wood
woodfor thisproject?I'd
preferred m a t e r i a l .A s f o r g l u e . g o w i t h a g o o d paint. For exarnple.Valspar makes Marine
gluesuggestions,
appreciate too. polyulethiuietype. TopsiclePolyurethaneEnamel.which we
-StanSmith,Pinehurst,
Texas Whatever wood yoll Llse.rnake sLrreto fbund priced at $ 10.94per quart. You
-siveit an extra clr.rrable paint job that will clon't need a primer, you just need to be
A Stan.the ceclarwor-rlcl -siveyou a standup to extreme weather.Apply a _qenerollswith the first coat. then add two
Fl weather-resistant winclow. anciscr water-repelI ing preservatil'ethat's ol three more coats.The polyurethane
w o L r l ccl y p r e s so r P o n d e r o s ap i n e . paintable-meanin-9that it cloesn'tcontlirr makesit tough.However.this paint
TreatecllLrnrberis best-suitedfor oLrtdoor wax-therr an oil-basedprimer containing comes in only wliite. red. blue. erndgreen.
pro.jects.You have to let it dry cpritea mildewcide.fbllowed by a couplecoatsof and Valspardoesn'trecomrlendtintin-s.
while before yoLrpaint: anclcr"rttin-g ancl oil-basedpaint.
top-cprality. -W00D@ magazine
h a n c l l i n gt l e a t e dl L r n r b c re. s p e c i a l l v If yoLr'rewilling to spendr.nore.Llseir
i n c k r o r sc. x l l o s e sy o L rt o ; r o t e n t i a l l yt o r i c nr.u'inepaint insteadof a corrventional
Moving p?rts limit
your filnish choices
ffi I madea locomotive of blackwal-
fuC nutandmaple,withfullyopera-
tionalparts,includingthewheels,
slides,andcylinders. NowI'd liketo
giveit a mattefinishthatwon'tfreeze
up themovingparts.WouldSalad
BowlFinishor WatcoDanishOilbethe
answer?
-Rich Palleschi, Mass.
Bridqewater,
q\[ ti
. I
W O O D m a g a z i n e O c t o b e r2 0 0 1
Introducing the New Delta Store.
Tap into the
t The Watco oil should work fine. whichmeansI am not happy.I knowI
Power of the Pros.
Fl Ricli. accordingto someonewho canputa bullnosepaece on thefront,
The new Delta store has over
knows all about rlaking toys with mov- but I waswondering
if anyonehadany
irrg parts. WOOD toy contestwirrner for stiffening
othersuggestions up looo productsfrom a complete
Mike Jagielogives the thurnbs-Llpto theseshelves? line-upof unisaws to thosehard-
Watco. which penetrateswood rather -scottl@inmagic.com to-findmachinery attachments.
than buildin-r a film on the sr"rrface. Mike Extensiveproductinformation
sus-sests steerin-gaway from Salad Bowl includingcustomerratingsand
F i n i s h .w h i c h b L r i l d sa b i t a n d a l s o w o u l d reviews witlhetpyouchoosethe
producea glossy look. His own prefer- righttool for the job. We'[[even
e n c e f o r m o v i n g p a r t si s M i n w a x d e l i v e rt o y o u r d o o r f o r o n l y
A n t i q u e O i l F i n i s h .W h i c h e v e ro i l y o u
choose.he says.the ideal procedureis to
$s.gs.
finish the parts befbre final assernbly,
and he recomrrendswipin-eoff the oil 2"-widestrip rabbeted
before it becomestackv. intobackedge
-W00Do magailne
www.woodonline,com 37
sho youworkfaster,
Helping smarter,
andsafer
ti
top shop tip Center t/q" hole in
waste area.
Jim Walkerneverlacksprojectsto
build,suchas the spicerackshown
A tapering iig above.l tseemsl i kehi sthreechildr en
are alwaysapproaching him witha cat
from Walker: alogclipping,asking,"Canyou build
Texas Tipster ffiJ:'l one of these?"One such request-for
Wh ilebuilding a pe d e s tata l ble a mahoganypedestaltable-left our
witha tapered,octagon- Top ShopTip winnerscratching his
shapedcentercolumnrecent- headfor a whilebecausethe center
ly, I frettedaboutgettingthe pedestalwas a tapered,eight-sided
compoundanglesright.After column.Beforelong,though,the
all,the tapersand bevelson each Carrier
board
retiredengineerfounda way to tame
edgeof the eightstaveshad to the complexcompoundcuts,and his
matchperfectly, or the projectwould solution,aI left,earnedJim this issue's
be f ir ewood. Her e' sth e s o l u ti o nI Top ShopTip accolades.
cam eup wit h,and w h e th eyr o u For sending in this
makethe bevelcutsor not,it'sa issue's Top Shop Tip,
handyway to makesymmetrical Jim Walker receives an
assortment of Ryobi
taperedparts. tools, including a
Startby rippingstaveblanksto RE175plunge router,
theirwides widt
t h,a n d a b o u t1 " BE321 belt
sander, and
l o ngert hant heirf in a ll e n g thA. t b o th HP12O1MK2
endsof eachblank,drilla t/q"hole drill/driver.
centered1/q" Iromthe end. (These Greatjob, Jim!
holesfall in the wasteareaof the
blank.)Starting1/2" Iromone end,lay
outyourtaperlineson one blank.
Nowcreatea stockcarrierby rip-
pinga scrapof 3/+"plywooda little Tell us how you'vesolveda workshop
l o ngerand widert h a ny o u rb l a n k s . puzzler,and we'll send you $75 if we
Afterthe cut is complete,don'tmove printyour solution.And, if we choose
yourtablesawfence.Alignthe taper your tip as the Top Shop Tip of the
lineyou drewon yourfirstworkpiece issue,we'll also send you a tool prize
w i tht he edgey ouju s tc u t a n d ,u s i n g worthat least$250.
th e holesin y ourwo rk p i e c ae s a Sendyour besttips,alongwith pho-
Sacrificial fence face
guide,boret/q"holesin the carrier, tos or illustrationsand your daytime
-- r"Tr )
Removethe blankand gluea 1/ax1" nrpfen6l V-- telephonenumber, to: Shop Tips,
d owelint ot he hole sy o uj u s td ri l l e d . WOODMagazine, 1716 Locust St.,
To cut the tapers,attacha blankto GA-310,Des Moines,lA 50309-3023.
the carrier,registering it on the Bladeset to Or post your suggestionson our Top
dowelpins,and cut the firsttaper. S hop Ti p di scussi on gr oup at
Th enf lipt he blanko v e ra n d c u t th e the edges,as I had to, you can make www.woodonline.com.
oppositetaper. the bevelcuts usinga sacrificial faceon Becausewe try to publishonlyorigi-
Trim t/2"off each end to removethe your rip fence,as shownabove. nal tips,pleasesendyour tips onlyto
registration holesand sizethe stave.lf -Jim Walker,
Tyler,Texas WOOb magazine.Sorry, but we
you'regoingthe extrastepof beveling can'tsendbackthe thingsyousendin.
Continuedonpage40
38 W O O D m a g a z i n e O c t o b e r2 0 0 1
shop tips
bottlecap to the
wing nut,as
shownabove.
N o to n l yi s th e
roundknobmore
comfortable,its knurlededgesgiveme a
bettergrip.A monthafterinstalling it, my
thumband fingerhavehealedquite
nicelY'
andI'mtffJ '#iilii;wa,Japan S{
a
With G-clampSr F"nel
9/
glue-ups will B-flat
Whenedge-gluing severalnarrowwork-
piecesintoa wide panel,I use C-clamps
to keepthe facesflush,as shownabove
right.For example,I had to glue eight
3"-wideboardstogetherto makea table-
top. I appliedglueto the matingedges
of the firsttwo boardsand usedpipe
clampsto bringthemjust in contactwith
eachother.
Then,startingin the centerand work-
ing out to eachend, I appliedC-clamps
withthe clampingpad straddling the
joint,(Yourclampmustbe at leastas
deepas the boardsare wide.)Finally,I
tightenedthe pipeclamps.Afterthe glue
wwrry.woodonline.com 41
shop tips
42 W O O D m a g a z i n e O c t o b e r2 0 0 1
Gord caddy mounted router. Invariably,thedarned
keeps tem close thingwoulddroptoolowintotherouter's A few monetips from
To tamethe powercordof my table- t/2"collel,andI endedup upending the our woodworkingpros
mountedrouter,I builta simplecaddy routeror removing lhe t/2"colletto fish . Chancesare, the cabinetsyou make
from a few scrapsof t/+"-thick
stockand outtheadapter. will be more perfectthan the wallsthey
mountedit to the tabletop,as shown To savemysanity,I fashioned a nar- hang on. Learna trick to make them
below.l neverhaveto blindlyreach rowcollaroutof masking tape,as shown mate flawlesslyin the DisplayCabinet
in thedrawing belowleft.ltonlytakesa projecton page 77.
fewwrapsof tapeto keeptheadapter . Curb glue squeeze-outby creating
fromslipping through. gutterson your workpiece,as we did
-Jim Downing, with the Nightstandtrim on page 91.e
WestDesMoines,lowa
'""* '4"ntvwooo
j
;'" )
l*-1"------l
#6 x3/q"F.H,woodscrew
aroundunderthetabletryingto findthe
cord.lt worksso well,I madeanother for
myscrollsaw's footswitchto getit up off
thefloorwhennotin use.
-Max Taylor,
FortWorth,Texas
www.woodonline.com
CircleNo. 650
www.woodonline.com 45
rcmake kitchen
-"..#d@Fi#'
ACT
A GLASS CORNER
CREATIVE WITHSTYLE
CABINETS
This display cabinet makes a Make the most of corner Youcansavea bundleby
perfect place for your glass- space by installing a blind building your own high quali-
ware or collectibles. To build corner shelf set for base cabi- ty cabinets. Learn how on
one just like it, or a modified nets by Rev-A-Shelf.(Find the page 50. Behind these arched
version for other rooms in manufacturer's phone number doors are square carcases for
your home, see page 72. and Web Site on page 4$. ease of construction.
TRAru$ilM
wrrlnsw
Trim complete with a faux
transom makes squarish win-
dows seem taller. To find out
how to do the same in your
home, see page78.
iustlookat
thesefeatules
APPLIANCES
CAMOUFLAGE COUNTERTOPS TRAYSFORCONVENIENCE
Yes, there is a dishwasher instantly
Newcountertops Pull-out in
traysmounted
hiding behind this wood panel update and beautify any base cabinets make it easy to
(see the inset photo). To kitchen+ven if you do noth- access large items. Build and
check how easy it is to blend ing else. Get the lowdown on installthem much as you
a dishwasher into your cabi- building and installing coun- would a drawer, according to
netry, go to page 64. tertops on page 68. the instructions on page 58.
Do as much, or as little, as
you like. High-end looks and
storage aplenty fall within your
abilities and pocketbook-
wetll show you how.
FOOD
ANDWINE
TOGO COMING
NEXT
MONTH!
When you have little space To keep recyclables out of Build a beautiful room
for a microwave oven or view, add a four-bin, slide-out divider anywhere in your
wine bottles, store both in wastebasket system, such as home. We show you how in
above-countercubbyholes. A this one from Feeny the November issue of
GE Spacemakerll takes only Manufacturing.For a source, WOOD@magazine. So stay
1sAexl 2s/sz"space.
a 2325/szx1 see page 49. tuned for this great project.
www.woodonline.com 47
ake
www.woodonline.com 49
50 WOOD magazine October 2001
We askedDoug Guyer, a cabinetmak- give you a contemporarylook, and the
er in Des Moines, Iowa, to build the absenceof face frames makesthem eas- clean than
cabinets for our kitchen remodeling ier to build than more traditional styles. the dull kind
project. We also asked him to lay out Place hardwarehigh on your planning that most home
the stepsso that lessexperiencedwood- list, too. If you can't find everythingyou centerscarry.
workers can follow along. need at your favorite home center, get a For our project,we
You'Il see that this project requires detailedcatalogfrom a hardwaresuppli- used sheetgoodswith
only basic woodworking tools and some €r, such as Woodworker's Hardware. thermo-fusedmelamineon one
specialjigs that you can make yourself. Call 800/383-0130for a free catalog,or face and a brown gluing surface
Doug did all of the work in his shop, a log on to www.wwhardware.com. on the other. Each sheet comes
convertedtwo-car garage. You have a huge array of pulls, hinges, oversized at 49" by 97", allowing for
Still, there's no denying that it's a and drawer slides to choose from, and space lost to saw kerfs, and you can
major undertaking.Make sure you have those choicesdo make a difference.For expect to pay about $30 per sheet.
the time and patienceto get it done in a example, standarddrawer slides mount You'll lse 3/q"sheetsfor the sidesand
reasonablefashion.Feeling confident on on the drawer sides,usually requinngVz" bottom of eachbasecabinet,and for the
that score?Then here are the basicsthat clearance on each side. However, we sides,top, and bottom of eachuppercab-
will make the job go smoothly. chosean undermountstyle, which is hid- inet. Buy enough /+" sheet stock, also
den from view, and allows for a slightly with thermo-fusedmelamineon one side
Plan to the tast detail wider drawer,too. and a gluing surfaceon the other, for the
This is not a project that you can jump Also, spend some time considering backsof all the cabinets.
into with a few rough sketches. You specialized hardware, such as pull-out Also buy enough 3/+" sheet material
needto make precisemeasurementsand trays, drawer inserts,wastebasketracks, with melamine on both sides to make
drawings that are detailed enough to let storagebaskets,and the like. Remember, shelvesfor all of your cabinets.You can
you visualize both the consffuctionpro- you'll have to size some cabinets to usethe two-sidedtype of sheetgoodsfor
ceduresand the results.You can do it all accommodatethosechoices. the whole project, but you'll have to
on grid paper,but computer-aideddesign sand off the melamine coating on the
softwareis a great help. Material quality matters bottom of each upper cabinet, so that
Wheelchairaccessor just a strongper- Don't settlefor common materialswhen veneerwill adhere.
sonal preference for lower or higher you're aiming for top-notchresults.It's You'll cover the melamine'sexposed
countertopsmight enter into your plan- worth the extra cost to go with profes- edgeswith wood veneertape.Look for it
ning. Otherwise, stick with standard sional quality when you select sheet in 8' rolls at home centers,or you can
specifications.The typical kitchen coun- goods,fasteners,and hardware. order it in various species
tertop is 36" off the floor; basecabinets You'll need enough solid-wood stock through Van Dyke's
are 24" deep; upper cabinets are 12" to to build doors,drawers,and various trim Restorers,800/558-
13" deep; and the upper cabinetsperch pieces. We used cherry, a very popular 1234. Ask for
18" above the countertop.Plan for a Va" cabinet wood these days. We made the part number
gap on each side of an appliance. door panels out of Vq"cherry plywood, 02280064.
We're going to build boxesof manage- with two good faces.
able size and set them side by side, so You can buy melamine-coatedsheet
you needto figure out logical widths for material at any home center, but
those boxes.For example,the sink base we recornmendthat you go to
might be 42" wide, a standardstorage a builder's supply outlet
unit might be 30", and a cabinethousing and buy "thermo-
just a stack of drawers might be 18". fused" melamine
Measureexisting kitchens,and look into It's a higher quality
the cabinet manufacturers'brochuresat product with a shiny
c\s-
home centersfor examples. white coating that's
We'll show you how to build slightly more durable and
modified Euro-stvle cabinets. These easier to keep
vwvur.woodonline.com
cabinetmaking
as a backing surface. Snap off the
veneer.then sandit flush with medium-
grit sandpaper on a sanding block.
Repeatat the oppositeend.
Doug usesa handy little tool made by
Virutex to trim both edgesof the veneer
at the sametime, as shown in Photo G.
You can find other styles, too, but this
one is available from Van Dyke's
Restorers, part number 02286821, for
$19.99 Or, you can shave the veneer
flush with a sharpchisel.
See the sidebar, page 59, for details
about making a drilling jig that you'll
Equipyour routerwith a goodedge All you needto applyveneeris an inex- use to position shelf holes on the cabinet
guide beforeyou start makinggrooves pensivehouseholdiron.lf you planto sides.Usethisjig to drill a seriesof holes
for cabinetbacks.Setthe guide,then do do a lot of cabinetwork, you can buy in each area where you want to place a
all the backsat once. veneertapein 250'rolls. shelf, to allow for some adjustment in
shelf spacing.
priced at $4.49 per roll. Plan for some the solid wood used for the doors and Most factory-built cabinetshave holes
waste,becauseit's best to avoid using drawer fronts. from the top of the cabinetclear down to
splicesin your project. Apply veneer tape with a common the bottom. but there's no need to do
householdiron, as shown in Photo B. that. Your cabinets will look better on
Let's build a base cabinet Securethe workpiece vertically in a vise the inside with fewer holes. In addition,
You needonly basicwoodworking skills or in a handscrewclamp that is, in turn, you won't wind up with a hole, or half a
to build the standardcabinet box. Let's clamped to the top of your workbench. hole, near the bottom, where liquids
start with a typical base cabinet, as Cut enoughtapeto protrudebeyondboth could splashinto the particleboardcore
shown in Drawing 1. Vary the dimen- ends of the piece. With your iron set at and causedamage.
sionsand the number of drawersto make medium heat, run it along the length of Attach the sidesto the bottom with #20
nearly any cabinetunit you want. the piece.This melts enoughof the adhe- biscuits and #8x2" production screws.
To avoid chipping the melamine,outfit sive backing to hold the tape in place. Keep it simple, and line up the edge of
your tablesaw with a sharp, 8O-tooth Then, go over the tape again, holding the biscuit joiner with the edge of the
blade. Then, cut a sheet in half length- the iron in placefor threeor four seconds cabinetside, as shown in Photo D, then
wise, and cut one half into three equal in each spot. Move an iron's length the edge of the bottom. That way, you
pieces,each approximately24x32". ahead,and also press a wood block on don't even need to make pencil marks.
One piece at a time, clamp each sheet the previous spot. The wood absorbs Use four biscuitsper edge.
of melamine to your workbench, with some of the heat, and the pressurehelps Also, cut biscuit slots for the drawer
the white face up. This surface will be to set the veneerin place. divider. Doug uses a shopmadejig for
visible inside the cabinet. Equip your Scorethe tape from beneathat one end this, consistingof a squarepiece of par-
router with an edge guide and a Vq" of the workpiece, using the wood block ticleboard. 5" on each side. with wider
straight bit, and rout a groove 3/a"deep
and e/rc" from the edge, as shown in
PhotoA and the basecabinetassembly.
This edge is going to serve as the back
edge of the cabinet sidesand bottom.
Now, cut the two sidesto 23Vqx30r/2".
Make the cabinet bottom 23V4" deep,
and as wide as the finished width of the
cabinet, minus IV2". From the same
material, cut two rails for the top, and a
drawer divider, each piece 5" wide and
as long as the bottom's width. Rout a
groovein the back rail, sizedand located
to match the groovesin the sides.
Now, becausethey will show on the
finished cabinet, put veneer tape on the A razor-sharptrimmer quickly cuts the Keep joinery simple and avoid measure-
lightweight veneer. This spring-loaded ments completely, when possible. Here,
front edges of the sides, bottom, and model handles both sides at once, and the biscuit joiner is lined up with the
rails. We used cherrv veneer to match works on stock of various thicknesses. edge of the cabinet side.
2 u deck screw
t/+"melamineback
sZx 3" solid
stockdivider
blockfits in
Drawerguidemounting
!-
- screws_
a 4)
between
cabinets. l-f
Hingeplate
Hingescrew
t/+"holes
oo
0
'(/
Attachtop with2" deck
screwsthroughtop rail
andintofillerblocks.
Vcx 5" drawerdivider
l-
I
s/e"deep, 301/z'
spaced
I
1t/c"aparl
note
1sa"€hank
1
I
1t/q"deck screw BASECABTNET /---\<
2t/z,,whire"ff-'
screws,screwed into stud
7+"melamineside and bottom
o
lron-onveneertape on exposedparticleboard
edges-_l
ta #20biscuits )
#20biscuitslots \
Cabinetwidth \
231/c' \
L \
Il-- /
/
//'
/4,
\
\
1sle"deck screws
\
Lengthequalswidthof
cabinet,or run of cabinets. 3/qx 4" plywoodsubbase
www.woodonline.com 53
cabinetmaking
top and bottom 12" wide and to a length
equal to the finished width of the cabinet
minus 1tl2".Rout a groove for the back,
as in the base cabinets. Drill the shelf
support holes, again assuming two
shelvesper cabinet.
Make two biscuit slots per joint.
Assemblethe bottom and sideswith bis-
cuits and yellow glue, slide the back into
its grooves, and add the top. Add four
screwsperjoint, following the procedure
described above. Cover the bottom of
eachupper cabinetwith cherry veneer.
To make each shelf, cut3/c" melamine
After you've attachedthe sidesto the the samelength as the width of the cabi-
bottom,there'gstill enough"glve" to net opening, and V+" nartower than the
labellt. Agaln,you eliminatethe need allow the Installatlonof the drawer inside depth of the cabinet. Cover the
for measurements. dlvlderand top front rall.
exposededge on the front of each shelf
guide boards screwed to two adjoining arrangement. We affached a 3/a" solid- by ironing on white PVC tape, available
sides. Fit and clamp the jig against the wood divider betweeneachadjacentpair at home centers.
corner of a cabinet side, line up the bis- of cabinets.Each divider proffudes z/a"
cuit joiner as shown in Photo E, and from the front edge of the cabinet. That Swing into doopmaking
you're ready to cut, again without mea- measurementputs the dividers flush with We built frame-and-panelcabinet doors
suring or marking. the cabinet doors, which are held %" with exposed,stub tenonsjoining rail to
Attach the sidesto the bottom with bis- away from the cabinetby their hinges. stile, and flat panels.We usedsolid cher-
cuits and yellow glue. Before that glue Most of your cabinetswill be covered ry for the frames and/+" cherry plywood
has set, install the drawer divider and on the sidesby a wall, an adjoining cab- for the panels. We kept a 90o profile
front top rail, as shown in Photo F, with inet, or an appliance.Cover any visible around the outside edges,to match the
biscuits and glue. Rails provide all the side with a rail-and-stile, flat-panel cabinet dividers. See Drawings 2 and 2a
strengthyou need, and the extra access assembly. Follow the procedures out- for the basic door dimensionsand con-
area makes installation easier than it lined in the sectionon door-making. sffuction details.
would be with a fulItop. For a single-door cabinet, make the
Slide the back into its grooves from NoW a wall cabinet door width /+" lessthan the width of the
above,as shown in Photo G. Spreadthe The wall cabinets are a shallower, sim- cabinet itself. Plan on double doors for
cornersjust enough to fit the back top pler version of the basecabinets.A11you any cabinetthat's ovet 22" wide. In that
rail and its biscuits into place. Add five need is the basic box and shelves.You case,subffact3/a"from the cabinetwidth
#8x2" self-tapping, flathead screws don't have to deal with drawers.Seethe and divide the result by 2, to get the
along eachbottom edge and two screws detailsin Drawing 2. width of eachdoor.
into each end of each rail. Drill a %" For the sides, cut 3/c" melamine 12" Rip enough solid stock ZVq" wide to
countersunkstarterhole for each screw. wide and to the length needed.Cut the make the rails and stiles for vour doors.
Lay the cabineton its face to install the
top and bottom backer boards, made
fromVz" particleboard.Cut them 3" wide
and the same length as the rails. You'll
drive screwsthrough thesepieces when
you install the cabinets.
Glue the backer boards in place with
yellow glue. Pressdown on each board
as you drive brads through the cabinet
sides and into the ends of the board, as
shown in Photo H. The pressurecloses
any gap on the visible side of the back,
and the brads hold the boards in place
while the glue dries. The brads, like the
screwheads,won't be visible once the
Slldethe backInto placewlthoutglue. Gluethe backerboardsIn place,then
cabinetsare set in place. Thatflexlbllltywlll comein handylf you add smallfastenersto hold them whlle
Euro-stylecabinetsare designedto butt needto adjustthe cabinetslightlyfor the gluedries.Usea pneumatlcgun,or
againsteach other, but we modified that squarenessduringinstallation. iust tap in somebradswith a hammer.
#20biscuits
#8 x 11/4"deep
x 3" particleboard
backerboard
/,-1/z
lron-onveneertapeon
3" typical
(lessfor shortdoors) -1r' exposedparticleboard
/"
g'"/"/l)
edges
t/a
.l
Sfr-: z/ ,,
,/ 12', ]
/-/
//
I
3" whitecabinet
screws,screwed
'17a" into stud
hole
r/z"deep
r/a"lrom t/a"melamineback
edge of door
I
cabinets,
1/+"groove
1/2"deep
I
"*rZ',holes $
Hinge e/a"deep spaced
t'nn"':::*'
11/q"APdrl
/
9--..'
#20biscuit
**Use t/q"holetemplate
to locateand soaceholes.
D DOOR& DIVIDER
DETAIL/TOP
VIEW
n"u""r
I t Cabinet
Door-..
www.woodonline.com 55
cabinetmaking
E ONNWER
ASSEMBLY
7+"solidstockfor falsefront
I
racywhenyou'recuttinggrooveson the hold-downtoggleclamp.Makeyour own
edgesof the door railsand stiles. jig, or usea mitergauge.
carriage-style
Then, take some time to choose the ing and possibly damagingthe veneer.
straightestpiecesfor the stiles.Straight When everything fits perfectly, glue the
stiles produce flat, good-fitting doors. tenons in place with yellow glue and
Cut the longest stiles to length first, if clamp eachdoor with pipe clampsor bar
you're making cabinets of various clamps.Again, use 150-gritsandpaper to
heights, then the remaining stiles, and Outsidecabinetwidth
easethe exposededgesof the rails and
finally the rails. To determinethe length stiles next to the panel. Check the door
of the rails, subtract"4t/2" (the combined for squareby measuringthe diagonals, hinges accu-
width of two stiles) from the finished as shownin Photo K. rately. You'll need a
door width, then add 1" to accountfor Drive two s/e"brads into each tenon 13ls"Forstnerbit to make the cup
the tenons. from the back side of the door and holesin the doors.
With a standardblade on your table- removethe clamps.Lay eachdoor on a
saw,cut a grooveon the insideedgesof flat surface and weight it down with Design the drawers
the stilesand rails, as shown in Photo l, more doors, or boards, while the glue The typical cabinetdrawer is 22" deep.
Make itr/2" deepandjust wide enoughto dries. Crisscrossthe doors as you stack Its width dependsnot only on the open-
accept the plywood. Usually, V+" ply- them. Otherwise, squeeze-outat the ing, but also on the kind of slides you
wood won't measureexactlyVt", so run joints could glue them together. choose.The height must be at least Vq"
sometest cuts on scrappiecesfirst. Cut We recommend cup-style hinges, less than the height of the opening but
the length of the piece,then flip the other which are unseen when the doors are might haveto be reduced,againdepend-
face against the fence and cut in the closedand allow adjustments, too. Home ing on the slides.
oppositedirection.This step centersthe centers and hardware stores carry vari- SeeDrawing3 for the dimensionsand
groove on the workpiece. Adjust the ous brands.or checkthe Woodworker's details of one of our typical drawers.
fenceuntil the width is perfect. Hardwarecatalog,which also describes Maple is always a good choice for the
Equip your tablesawwith a dado set the accessories that help you positionthe sides.front. and back of the drawerbox.
and cut Vz"-longtenonson both endsof
each rail, sized to fit the grooves.We
used a sliding carriagethat rides in the
miter gauge slots, and a hold-down
clamp,as shownin PhotoJ.
Easethe inside edgesof the grooves
with 150-gritsandpaperon a block. The
door will look nicer. Besides,a sharp
edgedoesn'ttake finish well.
Dry-fit the doors,measurefor the pan-
els, then cut the panelswith a plywood
blade mountedon the tablesaw.Allow
for a tAe"gap at eachsideand eachend to
make for a smooth assembly.Ease the
edges of this panel, too, with 150-grit
Beforethe glue sets,measureacross Buy an affordable dovetail jig, practice
sandpaperon a block. Rounded edges the diagonalsof eachdoor.Equalmea' with it, and you'll be able to make the
slip easilyinto thegrooveswithoutcatch- surementsmeanthe cornersare square. drawer joints quickly.
s/sz"hole,countersunk
Makea shelfholejig
_.-__-=-=.1 To makesureyourshel fholesline
on backside up accuratel y, you needa dr illing
22',
j i g. Makethe si mpl eone shown
\=l /2,,stockfor sides,back and front
belowout of scrapmaterial,and
4 41/z'
you' l lbe al l set to constructany
standardcabinetry.
To use the j i g, fi t i ts guideboar ds
agai nstone top cornerof a cabinet
si de.Markthe gui dehol esyou
want to use,set a depthstop on
yout t/+"brad-pointbit,then drill
Notchfor drawer the shel fhol es7a"deep.Flipt he
slides(cutaccording j i g overto fi t agai nstthe opposit e
' t-H a l t-b l i n d J to instructions) top corner,markthe correctholes,
and dri l lagai n,bei ngcar ef ulnot t o
dovetails enl argethe gui dehol es.
*tZ" groove 1/q"deep 1/2"
from bottomedge
*Sizegrooveto matchactual
Register
withtopedgeof
sideoanels.
thicknessof plywood. s/qxe/t" stock
Left and rightlockingdevices(for drawerslide)
1/q"groove
t/q" deep,
centered
t
51/z
Skid contrcl
As you completeeach base 1 1/+"
cabinet,cut smallpiecesof
particleboardscrapfor skids,
and fastenthem underneath r\
with a brad nailer.Now you can 11/q"
www.woodonline.com 59
60 WOOD magazine October 2001
Removethe old cabinetsandmakeany the cabinetto the wall with white 3" pan-
necessaryrepairsto the walls and floor. headscrews.Ideally,eachcabinetis held
Take careof any electrical,plumbing,or by four screwsin eachstud,two nearthe
heating and cooling work. Then, mark top, and two nearthe bottom.
on the walls the height of your toekick, As noted in the cabinet construction
base cabinets, and wall cabinets, as article, we used a 3/4"divider made of
shownin Drawing1, to help keepevery- cherry and positionedit to protrude1/s".
thing on target during installation.Be A 3/4"spacerbetweeneachpair of cabi-
sureto measureup from the floor's high- netsgoesnearthe back edgeand can be
est point. Work your way around the made from scrap, becauseit won't be
room with a 4'level to find that spot. seen.Referbackto Drawing1 in the cab-
inetmakingarticle.
Start on the wall Raise the second cabinet into place Use clean, smooth handscrew clamps to
Startthe installationwith the wall cabi- align cabinets.You can apply adequate
besidethe first one,anddrive two screws pressurewithout damagingthe wood.
nets,ratherthan working over the base through its back and into the studs,but
units.Enlist someoneto help you hold don't snugthem tight yet. Clamp the two
eachcabinetin place. cabinets together with handscrews,as
Your installation starting point shownin PhotoA.
dependson the room layout. Often, it's Again, checkthe installationwith your
best to start with a cabinetthat must be level. For a cabinetthat's adjacentto a
centeredover a stoveor sink. On our end wall, place shims between the cabinet
wall, we started in the center, and and the wall, as in Photo B, to help snug
alignedthe stove-ventductworkwith the it into place. A piece of scrap material
hole we cut in the cabinettop. placedbehindthe shimsprotectsthe wall
If your cabinetswon't contacta soffit from damage.
above, install temporary supports as While your assistantholds the cabinet
shown in Drawing1. Otherwise,locate in place,put two more panheadscrews
the cabinets by holding them firmly through the back and into the wall studs.
againstthe soffit. Raisethe first cabinet Use a level along the front edge of the
into place, and check it with a reliable cabinet, and drive two IV4" flathead
level.Placeshimsbetweenthe wall and wood screws,one near the top and one
cabinetto make slight adjustments. Drill near the bottom, from the first cabinet
pilot holesinto the wall studs,and attach into the second,as shown in Photo C. Protect the wall with a board when you
use shims like this. Removethe shims
CABINETLAYOUT after screwing the cabinet to the wall.
-='=1'=ft:f
==7=
_=
_.
_====
--==.=====.====...==
{
Use a 4' levelto
----:::::::::::::::
draw layoutlines.
www.woodonline.com 61
installing
cabinets
into alignment with your mark on the
Placethesescrewswherethey'll be hid- wall. To raise a given spot on a frame,
den by the hingeplates.Now, tightenthe start one shim under the nearestcross-
screwsin the cabinetback. piecewith a hammer,then starta second
In many situations,your row of cabi- shim on top of the first, driven from the
netswill run from one wall to another,as opposite side of the crosspiece.Two
in the case shown here. We sized our wedge-shapedshims together create a
cabinetsto allow a IV+" gap at eachend flat, squaresupport.
of the installation,then coveredit with Use your level to check the toekick
trim as shownin Drawing2. from the wall to the outside edge, as
From matching solid wood, cut two shownin PhotoD. Use shimsin several
boards lVz" wide and the length of the spotsalong each gap, so that there's no
cabinet side. Temporarily attach the flex in the completedinstallation.
filler block with screws located inside When everything is level, screw the
shelf pin holes.Hold the trim piece ver- frameto the wall studswith #10x3" pan-
tically in place,and checkto seewhether head screws.Finally, screw the toekick
it sits flush againstthe wall. If any gaps to the floor by driving two 3" screws
show,usea compassto scribea line on througheachhorizontalpiece.Wherever Screwthe toekickto the wall,then
the face of the trim, and cut it to fit. See possible,locate the screwsso that they adjustit horizontallywith a leveland
the sidebarfor scribinginformation. alsopassthroughshims. shims.Later,trim off any protruding
After cutting the other sideof the trim endsof the shimswith a handsaw.
so that it sits flush with the outsideedge Dress up the toekick
of the cabinet,remove the filler block Cut a board from stock that matches You're likely to need a heating-and-
and glue the two piecesinto an L shape. your cabinetsto the lengthof the toekick cooling register somewherewithin the
After the glue dries,screwthis assembly and wide enoughto reachfrom the floor toekick. To make the grille that you see
in placeso that it extendsz/a"beyondthe to the highest point on the toekick. in Photo E, we placed the board on a
cabinet side. That measurementwill Scribe a line on the back side of this tablesaw,set a stop on the fence,raised
make it flush with the /+" doors after board by running a pencil along the top the blade to make a slot, then reposi-
they're mountedon their hinges. of the toekick. Place the board on sup- tioned the fence and repeatedthe proce-
ports, and carefully cut along that line dure. We cut six %" kerfs, with /4"
Build a foundation with a circular saw. Attach the board spacesin between.Keep the kerfs 1"
Positionthe toekick frameson the floor, with #8xl Vq"wood screwsdriven from away from the top edge and 2" away
then use shims to bring any low spots insidethe toekick frame. from the bottom.The kerfs are lonser on
WALLTRIMDETAIL
Scribing
described
lf a wall is out of plumb,your perfectly
squarecabinetswill leavean unsightlygap
whereverthe cabinet-to-wall edge is
exposed.Eliminatethat problemby "scrib-
ing,"shown at right.
To scribea trim piece,such as the one
describedin the article,placeit againstthe
wall,then use a levelto hold it vertically.
Adjustyour compassto span slightlyfarther
than the largestgap. Lay the pointof the
compassagainstthe wall at the top of the
tri m pi ece,put the penci lpoi nton the t r im ,
Scribetrim to and pullthe compasscarefullydown,keep-
/* wall and cut i ng i t perpendi cul ar
to the w al l .
#8 x 1Y2"F.H. to width. Set a circularsaw or jigsawat a slight
wood screw angleto createan undercut.Cut alongthe
,/ line you'vemade on the trim piece,leavinga
sharpedge to fit againstthe wall.This tech-
ni quereducesthe probl emof smal lgaps
causedby wall texture.
the back side, due to the curve of the Place the base cabinets screwsfrom the inside of each adjoining
sawblade, but the appearanceof the Stan placing your base cabinets with a cabinet. Again, place the screws where
exposedside is all you have to consider. unit that must line up with an architec- they'll be hidden by a hinge plate or
Leave an open space in the toekick tural feature. For example, traditional inside one of the shelf support holes.
frame during assemblyto allow for air kitchen design centers the sink cabinet Continue in this way to the end of the run.
flow, or cut it out now with a handsaw. under a window.
After installing the face board, use con- Speaking of the sink cabinet, you'll Add doors and drawers
struction adhesive to seal the bottom have to cut holes in the back of that unit When all of the cabinetsare set, install
edgeinside the toekick. This stepmakes to acceptplumbing pipes.Mark the posi- the drawers and doors. The doors are
sure the heated or cooled air flows tion of the cabinet on the wall, then mea- ready to snapinto the hinges. However,
directlv into the room. sure from one end mark and the toekick we built the basic drawer boxes without
to locate a given pipe. Measurefrom the their fronts, so we'll do that now.
snme end on the cabinet and from the First, locate the center of the drawer
bottom. Cut the hole.just slightly over- front. Place a piece of masking tape in
WALL sizewith a jigsaw. the approximate center, then use a ruler
Place the first basecabinet on the toe- to mark diagonal lines from opposite
kick frame, and check it with your level. corners.Drill through the intersectionof
If it's off, adjust the frame. thoselines to make a hole for the drawer
Set the first cabinetin place. If the top knob screw.
edge sits flush againstthe wall, drive at Slip the drawerinto its slides.Lay aVa"
leasttwo 3" panheadscrewsthrough the shim on top of the cabinet door below
backerboard and into the studs.Because the drawer opening.Set the drawer front
we left most of the top open on these on the shim, align its endswith the door,
base cabinets, you can work from a then drill through the knob hole and
standing position and reach down into drawer box. Install the knob, then drill
the cabinetto attachit to the wall. We'lI four screw pilot holes from inside the
add the countertop later. drawer, making certain not to go clear
If the boffom sits flush againstthe wall through the front. Countersinkthe holes,
but the top showsa gapbecausethe wall and drive the four #8x1" flathead wood
isn't plumb, insert shims over the wall screws.Repeatthat procedurewith all of
studs. Then, drive screws through the the drawers,and you're done.
cabinetback and the shims, and into the Next comes the countertop. See the
studs.The bottom of the cabinetmust sit article on page 68 for help with that. i
solidly on the toekick frame.
Written by Jim Pollock with Doug Guyer
Clamp the adjoining cabinetto the first
lllustrations:Kim Downing; Lorna Johnson
one with handscrewclamps,as shown in Photographs:King Au/Studio Au;
Photo F. Attach the rear spacer with Baldwin Photography
vnww.woodonline.com 63
f you're reading this, you probably
have a passion for the warmth and
beautyof wood. So, when it comesto
your kitchen, don't you want the wood-
work to dominatethe appliances,and not
the other way around?Fortunately, you
can do a number of simple things to pre-
vent appliancesfrom overpoweringyour
kitchen. As shown in the article begin-
ning on page 45, you can hide a
microwavein a cubbyhole,buy a slide-
out vent hood, and install a drop-in range
(onethat restson a wood baseinsteadof
on the floor). But what can you do about
that enormous refrigerator and nonde-
script dishwasher?Plenty. Let's start
with the refrigerator.
dard 24"-deep cabinets and 25"-deep Build and install the for accepting wood panels should have
counters.The refrigerator sticks out from ranels-that's it! in their owner's manuals the necessary
the countertop by the thickness of the We could have purchased wood panels dimensions and insffuctions for building
doors+nough clearancefor the hinges supplied by the appliance maker, but we your own panels.Drawing I showshow
to operateproperly. Wheels he$ it slide made our own that match the cabinet we made our panels according to the GE
effortlessly into its opening. doors perfectly. Refrigerators designed instructions. Photos A, B, and C show
how the panels go into place.
Panel(sameconstruction
NETNrcERATOR
II (vrEWED PANELS as cabinetdoor)sizedto
fit refrigerator
door
FROM
BACK)
DOORHANDLE
REVEAL
DETAIL
\
Rabbetroutedbefore
screwingplywood
panelto doorframe
Notchaccording
to refrigerator
instructions.
\
*tZ" plywood panel
lf the panel cannot
be placedwith the sized accordingto
doorframeattached. refrigeratorinstructions
usedouble-faced carpet
tapeto applythedoorframe #6 x 1" F.H. wood screws
the panelinto
afterinserting
the refrigerator. 7sz"shankholes,countersunk
wruw.woodonline.com 65
the integrated
kitchen
Make a dishwasher
Mvancedrcutertable disappear-it's magic E OISNWASHER
PANEL
Although visitors to your kitchen will
engineeringmadesimple have to look long and hard to find a pan-
for yourwodrshop! eled dishwasher,pulling off this disap- 7+"soliddrawerfront
pearing act is an easytrick. t/e"rabbet /e" deep
(bottomedge only)
As with the refrigerator,you need to
pick a dishwasherthat acceptspanels.
We chosean Asko modelD1796FI.See
page 49 for information on contacting
Asko. Although this European make
costs a few hundred dollars more than
most domesticmodels,we chose it for
Routers mount easily througflr
an openangin the tabletop several important reasons. First, its
No morefumblingunderneath the touch-padcontrols are on the top edgeof
table.Installyourrouterthru the
tT3/&in. x 9-in.openingon top. the door. So, they are hidden when you
Mountingplateis keyedto ensure close the door, and they don't interfere
properinstallation.
with installing a wood panelthat covers
the entire door. And, it's one of the qui-
etest and most energy- and water-effi-
cient dishwasherson the market.
Panel installation
couldn't be simpler
The dishwasherwe chosefits into a stan-
lnnovative 3-plece fence a{iusts, dard dishwasheropening,but to be on
allowlng you complete flexibility
Thefenceopeningcan be adjusted the safe side, be sure to buy your unit
to matchthe varyingdiametersof
yourrouterbits. before planning the cabinetryaroundit.
After installingthe dishwasher,build a
panellike the one shownin Drawing2. It
shouldmatchthe width of the dishwash-
er's door. Measureits height from the
bottom of the door to tA" below the bot-
tom edgeof the countertop.
Note that we mimicked the looks of the
drawers and doors by biscuit-joining a
Unlque offset joinint system on the drawer front to the top of the door panel.
ftnce helps make work edges Uue Door (sameconstruction
By adjustingthe fence,you can offset
the outfeedfenceso the workoieceis as cabinetdoors)
supportedforjoiningcuts.
www.woodonline.com
69
kitchencountertop
www.woodonline.com 71
WOOD magazine October 2001
HOLEDRILLLINGJIG
#8 x 11/q'F.H.wood screws
J I G E N DV I E W
I I l, I. A
I I I l \ - ,| ,-' -s/sz" hol e,countersunk ',/o,hardboard
I TXPIODED
VIEW I
-l i t |
(!"
.8,,,
Alignthis
3" --] end with
Referto instructionsin your top end
lightingkit for holesize. 7/aq"pilol hole t/2" deep of sides
8/2" 11 @
-{-7#17 x3/q"wire nails Mark "T"
for top.
Hingeplate t/2" rabbel7a",deep
Halogenpucklights
#8x11/q" F.H
t/q" shelf supports
wood screw
t/+" holes
t/z" rabbel
3/B"deep
@
e/q"cherry dowel
31/+"long
125' insethinge
1/2"rabbel
g/e"deep
J I GT O P V I E W
To fastenpart C, apply glue to the rab- Securelyclampan angledfenceto your Makea customsandingblockby tracing
betsand also alongthe upperedgeof tablesawto cut the cove in the molding the cove molding'sprofileonto a piece
partG. Clampagainstthe lowershelf. blanks.Pushblocksare a must. of scrap and bandsawingit to shape.
the jig's fence against the edge of the their pilot holes, but do not attach these to cut a3/a" rabbetVz" deep.Referringto
side. Chuck a brad-point bit into your plates yet. Drill the 3/+"towel-bar hole Drawing 1, rout a rabbet along each end
hand-helddrill, add a depthstop,anddrill nearthe bottom end of eachside (A). of the lower back.
the holesusing the jig's holesas guides. fiTemporarily attach the two sides, fllCut a3/q"chenydowel 3lV4" long for
Remember that the sides are mirror tJinside face-to-insideface, with cloth t#tn" towel bar (D). Referring to tft.
imagesof eachother,not identical. double-facedtape,flushing the ends and Bill of Materials, cut a piece of cherry
,rt Refening to Drawing 2, position the edges.Using a compass,draw the arc at plywood to size for the back (E).
Thinge plates where shown and drill the lower front corner where shown. Cut $ fll Applying glue to the biscuits,
and sandthe arc. Separatethe pieces. i 'c"*lassemble the sides (A) and the
SIDEDETAIL shelves (B), making certain that their
Awith your table-mountedrouter, cut
/t"\
\Jthe rabbetalongthe rear inner edgeof front edgesare flush. Also apply a drop
-' eachside (A) where shown,making sev- of glue to eachend of the towel bar (D),
eral passes,raisingthe bit after eachpass. and insert its ends into the holes in the
Hingeplate with a pencil the locations of sidesbefore clamping the assembly.
location ]Mark
J the biscuit slots in the sides (A) and { { Referring to Photo A, apply glue to
t/2" rabbel the shelves(B), making certainthat each $ | the rabbets and upper edge of the
7e"deep
shelfs front edge is flush with the front lower back (C), and clamp it into place,
edgeof the sides. applying pressureagainstthe lower shelf.
QReferring to the Bill of Materials,rip To check that the assembly is square,
LJand crosscut the lower back (C) to measure the diagonals of the carcase.
size.Adjust the fenceon your routertable When the measurementsare equal, the
s/se"holes,
countersunk
441/a'
El rop ASSEMBLY
#8x2"F.H.woodscrews
\
\s
"l 45omiteroh ^
both ends of Q)
it allcorners
and @.
3/+"hole
t/2" deep
#20biscuit I
R=5" slots
Cove molding
cuttingdepth
of e/ta" I
Frontof saw
assemblyis square.Remove any glue Put a blade with 60 to 80 sharpcar- Step I setup,then changeto the Step 2
squeeze-out,
and let dry overnight. bide teeth into your tablesaw,then setupfor the final two cuts.
raisethe bladeso e/to"projectsabovethe Crosscuta lt/2" piecefrom one of the
Build a sturdy table.Referringto Drawing4, clamp an front molding blanks as a pattern to
top assembly angled fence to your tablesaw where make a sandingblock. As in Photo C,
Referringto the Bill of Materials,rip shown.Make all measurements from the tracethe shapeof the patternonto the end
andcrosscutthe front/backfillers (F), blade in its raisedposition. Before you of a lx3t/+x4t/2"scrapwoodblock. To
andtheend fillers(G) to size. lower the blade to make the first cut, safelyhold the block on end while band-
Cut biscuitslotsinto thefillers(F, G), make a note of the positionof the hand- sawing, we used double-facedtape to
whereshownon Drawing3. Glueand wheel'shandle.Then count the revolu-
clampthe assembly. tions of the handwheelas you lower the
Unclampwhen the glue is dry, and blade.This procedureeliminatesguess-
drill countersunksAz" screw-shank work as you raise the blade toward its
holes through the assembly where final position.
shown. Position the rear edge of the Form the cove by making a seriesof
assemblyflush with the rear edgeof the cuts, raising the blade rn 1/s"incre- A' sides 3/a' 81/z' 441/q' EC
top shelf, and center it side to side. ments.Referringto Photo B, use push- B- shelves 3/t' 8u 301/z' EC 3
Holdingthe assemblyin position,usethe blocks to move the molding blanksover C lowerback 3/q' 51/t' 311/+' C 1
holesasguidesto drill 7/o+"pilot.holes%" the blade. Keep the edge of the blank
D towelbar 31%" CD 1
%"diameter
deepinto the top shelf.Do not attachthe againstthe fence, and advanceit with 1/t' 311/q' 39' CP 'l
E back
assemblyto the top shelfat this time. both consistentdownward pressureand
F fronUback
fillers 3/tu 2u 313/q' C 2
steadyforward motion. To reduceblade
G endfillers 3/+' 2/q'
Gut the cove molding marks in the final pass,remove t/te" or 45/rc" C 2
From 1"-thick cherry, rip blanks 3/+" lesswith thatcut, andmakethe passnon- H- frontmolding 1" 31/q' 361/4' C 1
wide for the front molding (H) and the stopat a slow but steadyrate. l. endmoldings 1" 3Y4' 10%' C 2
end moldings (I). You'll cut these pieces Referring to Drawing 5, make four J topbackrail 3hu 11/2' 34" C 1
to final length later, but for now, crosscut cuts on eachmoldingblank to com- K doorstiles s/qu 21/4, 301/2, c 4
one blank to 40" and two at 12". plete its profile. Make two cuts with the L doorrails 3h' 21/q' 131Aa C 4
M doorstop 3h' 3/q' c1
N-sidestoos 1/q' 3/e, 28s/q' c
cuttin
4
0. top/bottom stops 1/q' Va' 115AaC 4
. Partsinitially
cutoversize.
Materials Key:EC-edge-glued cherry,
C-cherry,
3/qx51/z
x 96" Cherry (2 needed) CD-cherry dowel,CP-cherry plywood.
Supplies: #8x2"flathead woodscrews, #8x1t/q"
flal-
headwoodscrews, #20plate-joiner
biscuits,
#17x7q"
3/qx 51/zx 96" Cherry (2 needed)
@ wirenails,#17xs/q"wirebrads, two-lamphalogen
lighting
kit,l" knobsAmerock no.BP-1590-FB(2),
/a"glass,/a"glass, glue,finish.
Buying Guide
%x36" cherry dowel,no.50804, Blum125'
$3.50;
insetcliphinges withmounting plates,
no,02560,
1 x 3 1 / z x 7 2 "C h e r r y $8.99/pair(2paifl;self-adhesivedoorbumpers,no.
1/ax 48 x 48" Cherry plywood 02S82, of56;glassshelfsupports,no.
$5,50/sheet
27120,$4.50lbag of25.Order fromWoodcraft,
560
3/qx51/2x96" or resawto thicknesslistedin the Bill of Materials. Airport
IndustrialPark,Parkersburg,WV26102, or
call800/225-1 153,
www.woodonline.com 75
-1
displaycabinet
temporarily attachit to the end of a scrap
2x4 on edge.Bandsawjust to the waste
side of the line.
fiTo make the sanding block fit the
LJmolding perfectly, rub it against
adhesive-backedsandpaper that you
place on the molding's profile, where
shown in Photo C. Then, apply sandpa-
per to the block, and smooth all of the
molding blanks.
www.woodonline.com 77
Note: If you wish to apply this treatment
to an existingwindow, carefully remove
the casing,jamb extensions,apron, end
windowsill. If your windowsdon't have
extensionjambs, leavethe sill and apron
in place, and just add the new casing.
QTo find the length of the side casings
L/(E), measurefrom the sill to the top
jutnb extension,add3/to"for the top jamb
extensionreveal, 3" for the width of the
transomcasing(F), andthe desiredheight
of your false ffansom. (You can adjust
this dimension to suit the proportions of
your window and the distance from the
top of the window to the ceiling. In our
'77Ae".)
example,this dimensionis Cut the
side casingsto size.For the length of the
transomcasing@), measurebetweenthe
sidejamb extensionsand add 3/a"to allow
fot 3/ro"side extensionreveals on each
side. Cut the ffansom casingto size. For
the length of the top casing(G), add 6" to
the length of the ffansom casing. Cut the
top casingto size.
f Temporarily clamp togetherthe tran-
Tsom and top casings,edge-to-edge
with their backs up, centering the tran-
som casing on the top casing. Mark the
locationsof the mullions (H) on the tran-
som casing, then transfer the marks to
the top casing,as shown on Drawing 2.
To determineyour spacing,subffact the
total width of all the mullions (we show
two3/c"-widemullionsfor a total of lVz")
from the length of the transom casing
(F), then divide this dimension by the
number of lights you want in your tran-
som. (Our transomhas three lights.)
f, Separatethe casings.Form mortises
ur kitchen redo involved replac- the wall (the width of part C shown in ulby drilling the casingswith aForstner
ing two windows. Existing Drawing 1a), and add lrVr6". To deter- bit, where shown on Drawing 2a, then
double-hungunits were replaced mine its length, measure the overall squaring the sides with a chisel. Dry-
with single-light casements,eliminating width of the window and add 6/s". assemble the frame face up on your
the meetingrails and openingup the view. Notch the sill's ends, as shown on workbench, and mark the biscuit loca-
To achieve a taller and narrower propor- Drawing la. Cut the l"-wide apron (B) tions. Plunge the biscuit slots, and glue
tion without enlarging the existing open- Ir/2" shorterthan the the sill. Finish-sand and clamp the frame together.
ings, we added false opalescent-glass the sill and apron to 220 grit, and nail
AMeasure the distance between the
ffansoms. You can work this magic on themin place,whereshownon Drawing1. \Jtransom casing(F) and the top casing
any window in your house.Here's how. Centerthe apron under the sill. (G), and add 1V2".Cut the mullions (H)
tAdd side and top jamb extensions to this length. Form rabbetsin the ends
Extend the jambs L-(C, D) to bring the window frame so the mullions fit snugly between the
and apply a new frame flush with the surrounding wall. (We casings,and round their ends to fit the
I After the new window is in place,cut used cherry to match the new window mortises. With the mullions in place,
I a3/+"-ttick blank for the sill (A). To casing.) Drill pilot and countersunk drill pilot and countersunkshank holes.
determine its width, measure from the shankholes, and screw the extensionsto Remove the mullions, apply glue to the
window's frame to the inside surfaceof the window frame. mortises,and screwthe mullions in place.
:i:;i:>i:
EWIIIIOOWCASING
(vrEWED FROM
BACK)
O^ #20 biscuitslots
:i::i:
( -tt of casing
| -.'
W"""Step 3 oftheinstructions.
:i::i:fqusl dimensions.
gss Step 6 of the instructions.
:i::i::i:
MULLIONDETAIL
3/cx 3/c"mortise
1/4"deep, formed by
d r i l l i n ga s / q " h o l e
1/q"deeo centered
Ta"from edge
"Y \l | , s / s zs"h a n k
sill 3/q'
Resawand plane stock for the verti- jamb extension reveals B apron 3/tu 1" c1
cal glass stops (I) and horizontal are equal, and nail the C side jamb %" **
extensions ** c2
glassstops(J). Fit the verlical stopsfirst, frame in place. Nail to both the jamb D top jambextension 3/q' ** *t l\1
then cut the horizontal stops to fit extensionsand the wall framing.Fill the
E sidecasinos 3/^,t Qfl
***
l v Z
between the vertical ones. Glue and nail holes in the sill, apron, and frame.
F transom
casing 3/,r Qr *** nr
clamp the stops in place, setting them When the filler dries,sandit smooth.
3/q' 3" *** t\1
3/td"from the back facesof the casinss Mask the window, the surround- G topcasing
H mullion 5/a' 3/t' n ++
andmullions. ing wall and the opalescent-glass t w ll
www.woodonline.com 79
r build€moriginal
dde
mlffor
A lookinoqlass
fromSco'tdntown
The original mirror frame that servesas the
inspiration for this project hangsin a house
namedScotchtown,located in the present-day
town of Beaverdam,Virginia. This 1719
building got its name from the nationality of
CharlesChiswell, its original owner. The
Chiswell family occupiedthe houseuntil
177I, when they sold it to PatrickHenry, the
Revolutionary War patriot famous for his
"Give me liberty or give me death" speech.
The housewas also briefly the childhood
home of a girl namedDolley, who later mar-
ried JamesMadison, the fourth presidentof
the United States.Somevisitors to
Scotchtownclaim to have seenDolley
Madison'simage in the original mirror. While
we can't promise any paranormalexperience
with the reproduction you build, we can
guaranteethat this project will reflect your
careful craftsmanship.
Scotchtownis presently
a museumoperatedby
the Associationfor the
Preservationof Virginia
Antiquities.You can
visit Scotchtownat
16120ChiswellLane,
Beaverdam,VA 23015,
or find more informa-
tion at the Website
www.apva.org.
O U T E RP R O F I L E
C E N T E RP R O F I L E
Make the molding the blanks for the frame stiles (A) and
To make the built-up frame molding framerails (B). I N N E RP R O F I L E
shownin Drawing1, rip andcrosscut
four piecesof stock sAaxVzxll" for the Assemblethe built-up
inner profile, four pieces t/+xs/sxl5"for molded frame
the center profile, and four pieces Refening to the Bill of Materials,
e/textAxl5"for the outerprofile. miter the frame stilesand rails (A, B)
Note: For safe and consistentresults, to size.We cut the miterswith the table-
use .featherboardsto hold the profile saw, screwing an auxiliary face to the
stockagainstthefence and table during miter gaugeto minimize tearoutwhere
all of the cuttirtgand routing steps.
Now, to form the built-up frame pro-
files,follow Stepsl-4 of the six-step
sequenceshown in Drawing2. Finish-
the bladeexits the wood.
Use glue anda bandclampto assemble
the frame.Make certainthat the frame is
squareand flat.
'F
sand the individual profiles. Glue and Note: Tighten the band clamp just |
' / 1 6n
1 /
|
clamp togetherfour setsof inner,center,
andouterprofiles,asshownin Drawing1,
keepingtheir backsflush. To minimize
enouglt to pull the joints together.
Excessive pressureweakensthejoints by
squeezingout nearll, all the glue. In
'1LW
| \t
FORMINGTHEBUILT.UPMOLDING
www.woodonline.com 81
mirror
chippendale
7oa"shank hole,
VIEW
E CXPIODED countersunk on back side
To cut splineslotsin the frame'scor-
ners, where shown on Drawing 3, #4 x3/a"F.H.woodscrews -
1/ax 3/t x 11/2"spline
build thejig shownin Drawing4. Clamp
the frameinto thejig andcut the slots,as
shown in Photo A. After you run each
cornerover the blade,lift the jig off the
table instead of sliding it backward
throughthe blade.
Cut and plane a /sxlxl0" piece of
stock for the splines.Then, cut the \y/
I
splines into triangles that are slightly /a" screweyes/
oversizedin width and lensth. Glue the (Use braidedmirror-
hangingwireto
hangmirror.)
Miteredcorner
t/a"hardboardback
l/ax 10 x 121/2"
mirror
7a"rabbets/a" deep
1/eX3/+X11/2"
#8 x3/q"F.H.woodscrew
mF'
1 / z x 1 x1 1 "( m a p l e )
M
2
2
1
flush to the frame after the glue dries. insert.Using spray glue or a glue stick, D*bottom
trim l/tu 31/z' 111/z' M 1
adhereeach pattern to a piece of Va"- 1/+'
E*sidescrolls 11/z' 6u M4
Add the fancy trim thick hardboard. Carefully align the
F glueblocks t/+u 1/q, 21/2" M 8
From Vq"-thick mahogany, cut a straight edge of each pattern with a
G back l/au 104t' 131/q' H 1
6x12" blank for the crest (C), a straightedgeof the hardboard.Scrollsaw
H kickerblock 5/a' lcu M1
3Vzxl2" blank for the bottom trim (D), and sandthe templatesfor C andD to the 1u
- Partsinitially
cutoversize.
and four 2xJ" blanks for the side patternlines. Don't cut the templatefor
scrolls(E). part E at this time. Materials
Key:M-mahogany,H-hardboard.
Copy the patternsfor the crest (C), Refering to Photo B, use the half Supplies:
#4x7a"flathead (12),1/+'
woodscrews
the bottom trim (D), and the side templatesto trace the crest (C) and eyes(2),braided
screw wire,t/o"-thick
minor-hanging
glue,
minor, finish.
E REARVIEW
side scrolls.Align theseparts as closely
11/2"
as possible during glue-up. After the
glue dries, use I2}-git sandpaperto
smooththe transition.
Cut the kicker block (H) to size.Glue
and clamp it in place, where shown
on Drawings5 and5a.
Cut a piece of Ve"hardboardto size
21/2"
for the back (G). Mark the locationof
the screwholes where shown.Drill and
Wrap back countersinkthe1/oq" holes.
4" on wire.
Apply the finish,
t/a"screw eye and install the mirror
Apply your choice of finish to the
project.We sprayedon threecoatsof
aerosol semigloss Deft Clear Wood
Finish.Betweencoats,we lightly sanded
with 220-grit sandpaper,and wiped up
the dust with a tack cloth.
Drill pilot holes for the screw eyes,
F 4 /
c'/2
n
where shown on Drawing 5, then
drive in the screweyes.Have a pieceof
mirror c\t t/s"smallerthanthe sizeof the
rabbetedopening.Setthe mirror in posi-
tion, and screw the back (G) into place.
Threadthe braidedmirror-hangingwire
throughthe screweyes,and wrap it back
onto itself. JF
Written by Robert J. Settich with Kevin Boyle
Projectdesign:Kevin Boyle
lllustrations:
Kim Downing; Roxanne LeMoine;
Lorna Johnson
Photographs:Baldwin Photography
www.woodonline.com 83
meetthe
rcSSES
Sixmachinesgo hgad-to-head
in aWOOD'magazinetooltest
Although youmightnotthinkaboutit much,we'rewillingto betyourelyon
yourdrillpressmorethanyourealize. Besidesboringholesat exactangles
withdead-onrepeatability, a drillpressalsois the safestwayto uselarge
hole-makers, suchas Forstner bitsandcirclecutters.Youcanevenpress
it intoseruicefor mortising,drum-sanding, or clampingpartsin a tough
glue-up.Choosewell,and a drill presscan be one of your best and
longest-lastingfriendsin theshop.
Benchtop or floor? piece, such as a lamp body or candle- How we learned all
Take a stand stick, if we needto. about the drill team
We soughtout floor-standingmodelsfor Second,floor-standingpressestend to After unpackingand assemblingthe six
this test for a couple of reasons.First, be more powerful than their bench- models in our test. we measuredfor
becausethesemachinesare so durable, mountedcounterparts.. That meansyou runout (wobble causedby an off-center
your first drill press may well be your can use bigger and longer bits with less or bent spindle)at the quill, chuck, and
last,so we think you shouldbuy asmuch stresson you and the machine. 2Vz"below the chuck using a precision-
capacity as you can reasonablyafford. So why would you want a smaller groundsteelrod and a dial indicator.
While we admit that in the WOODa model? If benchtop real estate is hot To gauge the reliability of the depth
magazineshopwe rarely needmore than propertyin your shop,you needn't ded- stops,we chuckeda twist bit into each
about 8-I2" betweenthe chuck and the icate work surfaceto a tool you use only machine,set the stop to Vz",anddrilled
table-a table travel easily achievedby on occasion. Just pull your benchtop 100holesLrto3/+"medium-densityfiber-
benchtopmodels-we like knowing we press out of storage,bore, and store it board (MDF). We then measuredthe
can drill into the end of a lonser work- when done. differencein depth betweenthe first and
Therightrates
Quicksurvey: Raiseyourhandif you'veneverchanged
the speedon yourdrillpress.Yep,we wereafraidof that.
We'reguilty,too,of notalwaysusingthe correctspin-
dlespeedfor thebit andmaterial we'reworking. Butif
youchoose therightspeedforthetaskat hand,you'llbe
rewarded withcleaner holesandlonger-lasting bits.
Here'sa chaftshowing thebestspeeds for somecom-
monworkshop applications,basedonactualtestingin
ourshop.Youcandownload a freedrill-press
speed
chartshowing additional bits,accessories,andmaterials
fromourWebsite.Justclickon"FreeChafts"underthe
"W00Dmagazine" tabat www.woodonline.com, andfol-
lowthedownload instructions.
Quill, chuck,
and spindle:
Three as one
A sloppy fit betweenthe
quill and drill-presshead,or
betweenthe spindle and quill
bearings,affectsthe accuracyof a
drill press.With all of those toler-
ances,you might expectrelatively high
runout readings.But all of thesetools
showed remarkably well here, with
runouts ranging from only .002
(Craftsmanand Delta) to .007"
(Shop Fox), measured2V2"
below the chuck, even after
our testing.And, none of the
machineswe testedrequired
adjustmentbetweenthe quill
and drill-presshead.Shaking
the chucks from side to side
yieldedno play.
When it comes to quill
stroke-the maximum plunging
distanceof the bit-we prefer the
capacitiesof the Delta 17-965 (4tA")
and Jet JDP-l7MF (4t/s").Besidesget-
ting you deeperinto a workpiecewhen
drilling, the extra 7t/s-ls/s"advantage
over the otherpressescomesin handyif
you usequill-mountedaccessories, such . The depth-stop system can make or break the drill press. In our
as a mortisingattachmentor work hold- tests, dial stops proved less reliable than threaded-rod systems.
down. Theseaccessories can rob you of o The diagonals of the smallest square tables are longer than the
up to 3/q"of the machine'scapacity. diameters of the round ones, so you can clamp wider jigs to them.
o One model in our test-the Grizzly G7946-is a radial drill press,
The need for speeds meaning the head and table both tilt. This helps when boring angled
Most of the drill pressesin our testoffer holes in long stock. The head also slides forward and back on the
12 or 16 spindlespeeds,and the more column, so you can drill to the center of wider workpieces.
stepsyou havebetweenthe top and bot-
www.woodonline.com 85
meetthe presses
tom speeds,the more control you have.
The insidestorv
To understandthe importantfe?turesof a drill press,it helpsif you know more
As important as the number of speeds,
though,is the rangeof thosespeeds.The
Craftsmanand Jet have the widest range,
aboutthe internalworkings.This drawingexplainsthe key parts and how they
from a low of 200 rpm to a blistering
interactwith each other.
3,630 rpm. (Seethe chart at the end of
the article for specifics on each
Spindle
Center pulley machine.)
Drive belts
The chart on page 84 shows the best
Motor pulley
speedsto usefor somecommonbits and
accessories in both hardwoodsand soft-
woods.Generallyspeaking,smallerbits
and softer materials require higher
speedsfor the cleanestcuts.Large-diam-
eter bits can dull and lose their temperat
Ballbearing high speeds,so go slow with those.
To change speeds, you must first
Head
loosena knob on each side of the drill-
presshead.This freesthe motor's sliding
Quill-return
spring mount. which movesforward and slack-
ens the drive belts. A chart inside the
pulley cover shows where to position
each belt on each pulley for the speed
you want. Changingbeltswas quick and
Ballbearing easyon all of the machines,althoughwe
Quill- Quill-feedlever found the Jet pressgave us a little less
feed slackwhen loosethan the others.
shaft
While we're on the subjectof belts,the
Rack-and-
drill presses with wider belts-
pinion Craftsman,Delta, and Jet-slipped less
gearing in our large-cuttertest than those with
natrow belts.That's becausewider belts
make more surfacecontactwith the pul-
leys and more effectively transfer the
motor's power to the spindle.
=.^=.,.-g
a nuts limit the drilling depth, while the
bottom nut rotates up or down to lock
'ROUNDAND 'ROUND.
the quill in the down position. In our
The motor turns of the quill. Fitted to the lower end of 100-hole test, this system proved the
the motor pulley at a constant speed. the spindle, the chuck holds the bit.
Like changing gears in a car, switching
most reliable, with no changein depth
Turning the quill-feed shaft counter-
the V-belts up or down on the motor clockwise with a quill-feed lever lowers betweenhole numberone and hole num-
pulley, center pulley, and spindle pulley the quill in the head by means of rack ber 100.
changes the spindle speed. and-pinion gearing. As the quill lowers, Delta's systemalsohasa threadedrod,
UP AND DOWN.The spindle pulley the rotating spindle, chuck, and bit but instead uses a large, knurled stop
turns the spindle, which moves up and make their plunge toward the work-
down within the spindle sleeve. The piece. Finally,the quill-returnspring nut, shown in Photo B, to limit the
spindle rotates inside the quill, isolated automatically raises the quill at the end plunge of the quill. This quick-setstop
by ball bearings at the top and bottom of the operation. has a spring-loadedhalf-nut mechanism
inside it-push the buffon and slide the clamp the workpiece to the table while hard to remove and even harder to keep
stop anywhere along the rodo then drilling. That's why we like a clamp- track of. Kudos to Delta for its long
releasethe button to lock. You can still friendly table. indexing pin that requires no wrenches
fine-tune the depth by turning the stop. The shapeof the table and the width of and is securedto the table-support cast-
Delta's stop proved faster to set than the rim around its bottom are the biggest ing with a chain.
the three-nut stops becauselittle if any factors in clamp-friendliness. We prefer As we mentioned earlier, we rarely use
turning is required. And, the simple quill the squarish tables of the Craftsman, more than 12" or so of our drill-press
lock is a ratcheting lever on the opposite Delta, and Gizzly G7944 tables to the table's vertical travel, and all of the
side of the head. After boring 100 holes, round tables of the other models, machines in this test had at least twice
we couldn't measure any difference in because you can clamp wider stock to that. Before buying, though, check the
depth between the first and last. them. (Measured diagonally, the small- "Table Travel" and "Distance from
However, we noticed that the stop had est square table in the tegt is 16"; the Chuck to Base" columns in the chart at
rotated slightly. This slippage shouldn't largest round table measures14".) The the end of the article to ensurethe press
be a concernunless you're drilling sev- tables on these three machines also have will handle your biggestjobs.
eral hundred holes at a time. wide rims (Photo E) that provide a And, if you'll use yoru drill press for
T\e Gizzly and Shop Fox drill presses broad, flat surfacefor th'eclamp jaws. metalworking, consider the Craftsman
use a dial stop (Photo G) on the quill- Of course, the tables sn all of the drill or the Gizzly G7944. Both come with
feed hub that limits the drilling depth pressestilt to allow you to drill angled "wet" tables that have a reservoir rim to
and locks the quill. Although easyto set holes. Before tilting the table, you must collect metal-coolinglubricants.
and use, we didn't find it as positive as first remove the indexing pin (most
the threaded-rod stops. In the Gizzly require a hex-head or open-end wrench) Less pressing concerns
G79M's 100-ho-letest, the last hole that ensuresthe table refurns to exactly .I*v erage and handling. Manufacturers
drilled was a fullVs" deeperthan the first 90o after the tilt. That small pin can be are beginning to place a higher priority
(Photo D); the G7946fared slightly bet-
ter with %0" slippage. Shop Fox fared
best of the dial-stop rnodels with only
3/ne" difference from first hole to last.
In responseto our findings, Gizzly's
Bill Crofutt'saysmost home woodwork-
ers don't drill huge numbers of same-
depth holes. "Our customers prefer the
speed and convenience of a dial stop,"
he says,to the three-nutstop system.
Taking measure
of the tables
In woodworking, you'll almost always
wafit to use a fence, jig, or auxiliary The 100thhole (left)we drilledwith the The wide rim aroundDelti's squarish
Grizly G7944is /a" deeperthan the first table proyfles an excellentclamping
wooden tabletop on your drill-press (right). By the 25th hole, we could see surfacefor holdinga workpieceor
table. At the ve{ least, }ou should the depth differencewithout measuring. attachinga iig.
rvwrv.woodonline.com 87
meetthe presses
CRAFTSMAII
22917N FLOOR 1 1 0 1 2 1 6 200-3,63031/a N 1 7 14V4x141/4 26 I F,K,L D 187 6.5 I c $430
DELTA 17-965 FLOOR 1ttn
1 0 10/5 t o 215-2,72047/a 0 161/z 14x14 24y, 4 5I c D , L , M 172 o . c z T 370
'178
GRIZZLY G7944 FLOOR1 1 0 I 12 14&3.0503Y4 D 1 4 11/s x11/t 311/2 49 G G G L D,M 8.5 I c 200
MDIA/ c
G7946 FLOOR1 1 0 5 5 55&3,4703Y4 D 33Y2 12%a- 301/, 5 1 G G G G G 1 5 06.5 I 180
-l{
Log on and speak out
Jet JDP-17MF Shop Fox W1680
about drill presses
Powerfulmotor,longquill
You've read what we have to say.
Theheaviest machine in the
stroke,andincludedmortis- test.Similar
to Grizzly
G7944
Now tell us what you thinkabout
ingattachmentmakes thisan in powerandspeedrange, the drillpressesin our test.You
choiceif youdoa
excellent butwithmoreswinganda knowthe dri l l :Log on to our
lotof mortise-and-tenonjoin- roundtable. Interactive Tool Reviewsunder
ery.Wefoundtheroundtable the Tool Comparisons tab at
withdeepgussets hardto www.woodmall.com. There,you'll
clampjigsandfences to. find a drill-pressdiscussiongroup
alongwith commentsfrom the
manufacturers involvedin the test.
www.woodonline.com 89
art II of our maple-and-cherrybed- to t/c".From this solid-woodmaplestock,
room suite, this nightstandis the cut blanksz/qxI53/8" for the sideupperrails
perfect companionfor the sleigh (C), I Vzxl\z/s"for thesidelowerrails (D), Avoidinggluesqueeze-out
bed featuredin issue 135. Its combina- tAxI67/s"for the rear upperrail (F), and
To avoid a trickycleanuptask, cut
tion of traditionaldetailsand contrasting lt/zxI67/s" for the rear lower rail (G). t/a"-deepsaw kerfs t/e"from the
woodsmakesit a good fit in any setting. Finish-sand the pieces. edges of the rails.Glue appliedto
Note: In addition to ease of assembly, Glue andclamptherailsto thepanels, the surfacebetweenthe grooves
the biscuit-joiner construction of this where shownon Drawing1, center- squeezesinto the groovesinstead
project makesfinishing a breeze. We ing the rails on the panels. The rails' of out onto the panels.
finish-sandedtheparts beforegluing up ends fall %e" short of the oversizepan-
the variousassemblies,then applied the els' edges. This keeps the rails from
finish to theseflat assembliesbeforethe interfering with the cut when the panel
final carcase glue-up. The Bill of assemblies aretrimmedto final size.The
Materials lists the parts for one night- spacing of the rear rails (F, G) is the
stand.If you want to makea pair, you'll sameas that of the two siderails (C, D).
have to doublethe numberof parts. With the glue dry, trim both edgesof your biscuitjoiner on the insidesurfaces
the sidepanel (B) and rear panel (E) of the legs and panels.Set the rear panel
Shape the gracefully assemblies to the widths in the Bill of assemblyaside.Glue, biscuit,and clamp
flared Iegs Materials. Trimming panels and rails the legsto the sides.
Laminatetwo t/qx2t/qx25v4" piecesof togetherensuresstraight,flush edgesand Cut two t/qxl5xI7" plywood blanks
hardboardto make a %"-thick tem- crisp, tight glue joints betweenthe pan- for the carcasetop/drawer shelf (H)
plate blank for the legs (A). Joint one els and the legs. Set the back panel and one t/+xllVqxl7" plywood blank for
edge. Make a copy of the leg pattern assembly(E, F, G) aside. the lower shelf (I). Then cut a
from the WOOD PATTERNSainsert. Adjust your biscuit joiner to cut a zhx-jAxl6t/e"blank for the upperband(J)
Use spray adhesiveto adherethe pattern centeredslot in the thicknessof your and three 3/qxlVzxl67s"blanks for the
to the blank, aligning it with the jointed t/+" plywood. Observingthe leg's pre- lower bands (K). Glue and clamp the
edgeas indicated.Saw and sandthe tem- viously marked positions,plunge the bandsto the shelves,centeringthe bands
plate to the patternline. biscuit slots in them and the mating on the shelves.As with the side panels
Preparetwo 1Vzx3Vzx32" blanks for edgesof the side and rear panel assem- and rails, the bandsare Vro"shorterthan
the legs (A). (We planed down l3/q" blies,whereshownon Drawing1. Index the shelvesat both ends.
stock.You can also laminatethe blanks
from 3/q"stock.) Joint both edges,then
#20 biscuitslots (cut afterassemblino
usethe templateto tracethe leg outlines
end panel@ and@together)
on the blanks, aligning the template's 3/qu '^,,
and the blanks' jointed edges.To con- 2', / l---r--..-
f /'- 141/z'
servelumber,nestthe parts,as shownon
the Cutting Diagram.Bandsawthe legs
from theblanks,keepingcloseto the pat-
tern lines. Clean up the legs' bandsawn
edgeswith a drum sanderchuckedinto
your drill press.We built the simple
pattern-sanding jig shownonpage20for
this task, using double-facedtape to 1
adherethe templateto eachleg.
With the legscomplete,arrangethem 133/q"
for the best appearanceand mark A
their locations,front and back, left and
right.Finish-sand the legsto 220-gnt.
U
RIGHT 53/q'
Make the carcase parts, REARLEG
53/q"
and glue up assemblies *Panelis cut 1" widerthan 11/2"
Cut two tAxl5Vzx2jt/q" plywood finishedsize,thentrimmed #20 biscuit
blanksfor the sidepanels(B) and one tq widthaftergluingstrips
t/+xlJx6t/2" plywood blank for the rear @ and @to-panei.
panel(E). Finish-sand the outsidefaces.
Note: The grain runs across the short RIGHT
dimensionof part E. II PNruEL
ASSEMBLY FRONT
LEG
Resaw in half a tAx4Vzx36"maple
boardand planethe two piecesdown Outsideface of left end oanel
www.woodonline.com
nightstand
1
Yz'
J
TWittr the glue dry, cut the shelf/band finish dry, sand lightly with 220-gnt
f assemblies to finish length, once sandpaper.Remove the dust and apply a
again trimming both ends. Mark the bis- coat of satin polyurethane. With the fin-
cuit slot locations on the carcasetop's ish dry, remove the masking tape. #20biscuit
and the drawer shelfs ends and rear lDry-assemble the carcaseside, top,
edges,and the lower shelf s ends.Plunge C,-shelf. and rear assemblieswith bis-
the slots, indexing your biscuit joiner cuits to check the fit. Disassemble,then
from the top surface. place one side assembly on your work-
fll-uy out and drill the counterbored bench, inside face up. Using white glue
L,lscrew shank holes and slots in the for extendedworking time, apply glue to
carcase top (H), where shown on the slots and maskedareasfor the carcase
Drawing 2. To form the slots' counter- top and shelves.In turn, glue biscuitsinto
bores,drill %e"-deepholeswith your t/2" the ends of the carcasetop and shelves,
Forstner bit, and chisel out the center, and position them on the side.Apply glue
where shown on Drawing 2a. Then drill and biscuits, and position the rear panel
overlappingshankholes to form the slot. assembly.Clamp this carcasesubassem-
Drill the Vz" screw accessholes in the bly, as shown in the shop tip below, and
drawer shelf. Finish-sandthe carcasetop set it asideuntil the glue dries.
and shelves. QApply glue to the carcasesubassem-
/1Mark the biscuit slot horizontal and LJbly's slots and edges.Glue biscuits
'
Yvertical centerlineson the inside sur- into the other side assemblyand clamp it H
faces of the side and rear panels,where to the carcase subassembly.Place the
II
shown on Drawing 1. Plungethe top row completedcarcaseupright on a flat sur-
of slots on the side and back panels, face until the glue dries.
indexing your biscuit joiner on the pan- 7f Clamp the top (L) in place, flush
els' top edges. To guide your biscuit Awith the legs at the rear and centered
joiner when plunging the other slots, side-to-side.Mark the locations of the
clamp a straightedgeto the panel, offset- mounting screws with an awl. Remove
ting it so the biscuit slot falls on the the top, drill the screwpilotholes, and fas- I
horizontal centerline. Finish-sand the ten the top to the carcasewith #9xlVq" I
panels' inside faces. panhead screws and flat washers, as
I
{f\Edge-glue stock to form a blank for
l\,/the top (L) about 1" longer and
shown on Drawing2.
t
#
v
wider than the size listed. With the glue fit
n
fr
dry, trim the blank to size.Rout a round-
over on the top's ends, then the front fr
tr
T
edge, as shown on Drawing 2. Finish- T
sandthe top. *s
cutting
diagrann
11/zx 51/zx 96" Maple
3 / q x 7 1 / qx 9 6 " M a p l e
3/qx 51/zx 96" Maple *Planeor resawto thicknesseslistedin the Bill of 3/qx 48 x 48" Maple plywood
www.woodonline.com 93
nightstand
153/a'
Adhere self-adhesiveglide strip to
the lower inside cornersand the top
of the drawer cavity, where shown on
Drawing2. Hold the strips /+" backfrom t/2" dado t/q" deep
the carcase'sfront edge. For a good
bond, pressthem in place with a wood
7/o+"pilot hole
block. Seethe Buying Guidefor a source
1/q"g(oove t/q" deep
of glide strip. 1/q"lrom bottomedge I
t1 1
Now build a drawer #B x 1/a"brassF.H.woodscrew .+."
with a contrasting front I \$
Note: Because the contplete bedroont s/sz"hole, countersunk
l's l
- )2" on bottom
suite involves ntaking l5 drawers, w'€ f'-'. I
used a drawer lock router bit to speed
4
this task. These bits form the mating
halves of the joint in the drawer front
and side with a single setup. (See the 131/2"
Buying Guidefor router bit sources.)If 1t/q" knob
you wish,you can substitutea lock rab- 157/a" 3 / r o "h o l e ,
betjoint, as shovvnon Drawing5a, ancl centered
cut themon your tablesaw. #8 x 1/a"brass
Checkthe dimensionsof your drawer F.H.wood screw
opening.(Oursrs4t/+x16".If yoursis 1Ss/a"
different,adjustyour drawerpart dimen- /a" grooves t/q" deep
sionsto leavea t/to"gap all around.)Cut
the drawer front (M) and drawer sides
El onnwen 1/q"ltom bottom edge
94 W O O D m a g a z i n e O c t o b e r2 0 0 1
These
roductsthat
woodworking passed
wares trials
ourshop
erform
Maldta plunges into like otherplungerouters.(The switchis
on top of the motor.)However,I still felt
supportsstockat virtually any bevelangle,
a horizontalD-handle,anda large3-spoke
midsized routerc safeholding the routerwith only one hand bevellock. The powerful l5-amp motor
When Makita introduceda new line of when I turnedit on, becausethe soft- andincluded4O-toothbladeslicedeasily
ZrA-hpfixed-baserouterslast year,wood- startingmotor barelytorquesthe router at through2x6s and 4x4s,with cuts clean
workersbtzzed aboutthe powerful, quiet startup. enoughfor woodworking.
motors.Now, Makita hasput that same To quickly setthe cutting depth,the The youngstershowsup the old man in
1l-amp,variable-speedmotorinto a new RPl l0l hasa half-nutmechanismon its a coupleof ways,though.For instance,
plungerouter:theRP1101. threaded-rodstop.Engagethe half-nut, the DW703 mitersa full 50" both ways;
and eachturn of the rod changesthe the 12" DW705 only goes48" left and
cuttingdepthby t/t;". My only beef right. And, the DW703 beftersthe DW705
with this systemis the depthindica- with I I positivemiter stops-two more
tor-the yellow piecein the photo at thantheDW705-at 45o,31.62'(for
lefi.With nearly/+" betweenthe crownmolding),22.5o,l5o,and 10"both
indicatorand the depth-of-cutscale,I ways,andof courseat 0o.
really had to eyeballthe measurement. All in all, the DW703 compareswell
The basereadily acceptsPorter- with otherhigh-end10" compoundmiter-
Cableguidebushings.And, with the sawsyou'll find on the markettoday.It's
baseremoved,you canrun bits up to a fitting andwelcomeadditionto the
3/q" in diameter(only in a router DeWaltmitersawfamily.
table,of course).The RPI l0l comes -TestedbyKirkHesse
with both Vz"and/+" collets.It takes
two wrenchesto changebits,
but both wrenchesare the
samesize-a nicetouch.
Here'sgoodnewsif you
alreadyown oneof Makita's
1I -amp,fixed-baserouters:
Makita sellsthe plungebase
separatelyfor usewith your
existingmotor.
-Tested by RichBright
Makita plunge
RP1101 router
jrjuniortt
Performance ***** DeWaltts
Value ****lr
$260 mitersaw shines
After designingand manufactur-
CallMakita
at800/462-5482,
orvisit
www.makitatools.com. ing one of the most popular 12"
compoundmitersaws,DeWalt
As on the fixed-baseversion.the engineersturnedtheir attentionto
RPI 101'selectronicspeedcontrolkeeps thoseof us who don't need(or
the bit tuming at a constantrate,without can't afford\ a 12" saw. The
regardto the workload.I plowed a:/+" resultis the DW703.a 10" com- DeWalt DW703compound
mitersaw
dovetailbit into a pieceof red oak and, poundmitersawthat sharesmany Perlormance *****
after a half-secondslowdown,the motor goodqualitiesof its daddy. $230
****r^?
recoveredits speednicely. Among the commonfamily
CallDeWalt
at800/433-9258,
orvisitwww.dewalt.com
I was surprisedto find that the router traits are a smooth-gliding
doesn'thavean on-handlepower switch turntable,a sliding left fencethat Continuedon page 98
CMT,sN
This system
combinesthe
performanceand
designof a shaper
with the versatiliw
of a router. Checkout
our complete
We stockthe full line on line catalog at
of CMT cutting tools. www. sommerfeldtools. com
www.woodonline.com
G \
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CircleNo. 1229
products that perform
#':sl
1"
€i',,,.
I
wooc
aneGdote
perslmmon
-
the all-American
I z
ebonythattookto the links o
q)
z
IJJ
uJ
F
a
One of the 200 membersof the world- of coal, damp bottomlands,and
-
wide ebony family, but the only one in trampled farmyards.In the best con- 2
o
North America, the common persimmon ditions, a persimmonffee might E
E.
(Diospyros virginiana) grows all the way reacha 100'height,but lessthan half F
a)
f
from southernNew York to Florida, west that would be normal. J
J
to Texas,and into Missouri. And just as Many people call persimmon "pos- The headsof the driversin your golf
with the eboniesof EastIndia, Ceylon, sumwood"due to that animal's liking bag may well be persimmon,one of the
and Africa, the heartwoodof American of the free's plum-like fruit. Yet, first- hardestwoods in the land.
ebony appea$ almost black in color and is timers tastingit shouldbeware.Ripe, it's
dense,heavy,and hard.But it is small in orangepulp may be a ffue delight, but standup to thousandsof hours wear
diameter.The lighter colored sapwood,on before then the pinkish-red globespossess before replacement.For its hardness,den-
the other hand,ratesnearly the sameden- enoughtannic acid to keep you puckered sity, and resistanceto splitting and splin-
sity, hardness,and weight, but there's for a full day. tering, persimmonlong ago beganshow-
more of it. Although always most well known for ing up on the golf courseas the highly
A gnarly, small-diameterffee seldom its puckery fruit, the persimmon's wood polishedheadon a driver or "wood." Yet
found growing in stands,the persimmon hasn't goneunnoticed.Lumbermenonce today, woods with persimmonheadshave
sproutsin placesotherfreesshun.You'Il soughtit for the hard-working shuttlesof a loyal following on the links, even
find it growing in played out strip mines textile looms.Only it and dogwoodcould though they carry premium prices.tl
the@ firegfig"
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CircleNo.877
lrvhatts ahead
inournextissue
Goming in November-
Wete got an admiruble armoire to adorn your master
bedrcoln...it matches the sleigh bed you saw in September.
You also can build it as an enteftainment center.
Gordless
kits Meetthe
corralled Meierbrothers
Looking forconvenienceandcost Wetraveled
to California
sothese
savings?Wetestsixcordless power masterwoodworkers couldshare
toolkitsthatcontaina high-voltage withyoutheirtechniques
for
circular
sawanddrill. workingwithfiguredwood,joinery
finishing,
andmore.