contents

WOODamagazine October2002,lssue144

10 flush-trimmingrouterfence
12 safestoragefor chisels
14 turnedsalt and peppershakers
I kid-friendlybunUtwinbeds
58 matchingchild'soak drcsser
U storagecarouselfor tools and bits
68 contemporarypicturc frames
72 mobilelumberstorage
82 flag case
BONUS:pushsticks(seepatterninsert) '
Seematchrngdres-err,'ptgq':

42 raised-paneldoors madeeasy
set can helpyou
Seehow a three-router-bit
elevateyourcabinetmaking
and savetime.
70 workingwith plastics
Learnhowto cut,drill,andfinishacrylic,
polycabonate,
and phenoliclaminate.
80 bandsawtune-up
programto keepyour
Followthis 1O-step
bandsawin tip{op shape.

n bird's-mouthrouterbits
Createmultisidedcylindersandcurvedlids
with this newbreedof cutters.
74 mid-pricedbandsaws
Wecompared sevenpopularniodelsunder
$900,focusingon powerandperformance.
92 shop-provenproducts
Check out the hot new woodworkingtools.

24 guidelinesfor child-safebunk beds

n wood anecdote:bamboo CoverPhotograph:
MartyBaldwin

Considered grass,thiswood-likeplanthas
becomeall the ragein the flooringindustry.
86 whole-shopheatingsystems
Decidewhichof the fiveapproaches
makes
the mostsensefor yourworkshop.
97 bidhouse/bid feedercontest

6 editor'sangle
8 soundingboard
re short cuts
30 shoptips
38 askWOOD
n at your service
112 what'saheadin our next issue
Visit our Web site at rnnnnnr.rnroodonline.corn for free rryoodrruorking plans, tips, shop tours, and more.
 0ctober 2002. vol.19,No.6 0 lssue No.144

editOrtsanste Editor-in-Chief
Executive
Managing
Editor
Editor
Bltt KRIER
JIMHARR0LD
MARLEN KEMMET
Features
EditorDAVID STONE
ProductsEditorDAVE CAMPBEIL
Projects
EditorJANHALE SVEC

If,lhat Itd like you Projects

Senior
Editor0WEN
TechniouesEditor
Design
DUVATL
JIMP0IL0CK
Editor KEVIN B0YLE

to lenow aborrt us Master

DesignEditor
Craftsman
Production/Office
Manager
Administrative
JEFF
CHARIES

Assistant
Photographer
MERIZ
l. HEDLUND
MARGARET
SHERYT
CI0SNER
MUNYON
MARTY BALDWIN
Intoday'sbusiness
worldof Illustrators
L0R1{A J0H1'|S0N,
R0XANNE LeM0ll{E,
TIMCAHILL, MIKE MITTERMEIER
multi-national
conglomerates TechnicalConsultants
RICH BRIGHT, JEFF HAtt,
PHILLIPGO(|DWIII, GARRY SMITH
andventurepartnerships,it's Contributing
CraftsmanJIMHEAVEY
Proofreaders
JIMSANDERS. BARBARA KLEIN
gettingharderto knowjust ArtDirectorKARL EHLERS
Assistant
ArtDirectorCHERYI A. CIBUIA
whostandsbehindthe prod- Publisher
MARK HAGEII
Advertising0ffice:333N.MichiganAve., 1500,
Suite
uctsyou buy everyday.But Chicago, lL60601Phone:312853-2890 Fax312580-7906
SalesandMarketingAssistantIARAKALTAL
there'sno mysteryaboutthe MailResponse Manager CAR0LYN DAI(IS
AccountExecutiveR(lNGOLMINAS
publisherof WOODmagazine: AccountExecutiveNEIIKIRBY
AccountExecutiveJOHN TH0RNBURGH
MeredithCorporation. lt'sa big Detroit,Phone:2481356-1149 Fax: 248/356-8930
AccountExecutivePATT0MLINSON
Northeast,Phone:212/551-7043Fax:2121551 -7192
company for sure,but onewith Southeast: Lagomarsino,Dempsey & Dennis,Inc.
2951Piedmont Rd.,NE,Suite100,Atlanta,GA30305
a woodworker as chairmanof Phone: -5400Fax4041261
404/261 -5404
Group MarketingDirectorCATHY E.SMITH
its executive
committee. Senior
Marketing Services
Manager ALEXAI{DER D.CIARKS0N
During a recent visit to Ted Meredith's work- Phone: -7090Fax:
212/551 2121551-7192
shop, I had a chance to look over a large platter SeniorPromotionDesionerSARAH DIBEILA
ave vou wonderedwhy the Ted fashioned from a box elder burl.
II GroupPublisher STEPHEN B.IEVINS0N
Il Beuer Homesand Garderzsbrand AssociateBusiness
DirectorCRAIG FEAR
appearsabove WOOD on our SeniorProductManager RICK GR0W
cover?Or how our parentcom- of Fruit, Gardenand Home Advertising
OperationsManagerPATHEN DERSH0fi
Consumer Marketing
DirectorJULIE MARTlil
pany, MeredithCorporation,got (which becameBetterHomes Consumer MarketingManager DAVE HONOLD
its start? and Gardensin 1924). VicePresidenUPublishing
DirectorWlLtlAMR.REED
We include the BH&G brdrnd Today,E.T.'s grandson,Ted MEREDITHPUBLISHII{GGROUP
abovethe WOOD logo because Meredith, who I am happy to President
STEPHE]'|
M.LACY
Magazine
Group
President
JERBYKAPLAI{
of the recognitionand trust it tell you is a dedicatedwood- Grouo
SalesMICHAELBR0WNSTEIN
carriesfor new readerswho may worker, servesthe companyas Creative
Services
ELLENDELATHOUDER
not be as familiar with us as Business
Development
TlllAGE0RGE0U
Chairmanof the Executive Manufacturing
BRUCE HEST0N
long-timesubscribers.BF1&Gis Committee.Ted hasbuilt some ConsumerMarketing
KARLA JEFFRIES
the largestof many otherpublications ambitiousprojectsin his gara;ge workshop Finance
andAdministration
MAXRUNCIMAI{
aboutfamily life and improving homes over the years,including a biplaneand /Uleredfth
I coaeoaerron

producedby Meredith Corporation,a
mediacompanythat alsoowns TV stations.
So why am I telling you this?I thought
you might be curious,but alsoI want to
let you in on an importantanniversarythat
we're celebrating.
It was 100yearsago when E.T.
Meredithfoundedhis publishingcompany
with the first issueof SuccessfulFarming
magazine(which is still publishedtoday).
The next magazinein the Meredith stable
camealongin 1922with the publication
two boats.His currentprojectis the
restorationof a l930s-vintageplane,a
task with no shortageof woodworking
challenges,judging by the curvedand
veneeredinstrumentpanelson Ted's
workbench.
As we mark this anniversary,it is my
sincerewish that we continueto serve
your needsfor many yearsto come.
WltLlAMT. KERR, Chairman
andChiefExecutiveOfticer
E.T.MEREDITHlll, Chairman
of theExecutive
Committee
oCopyrightMeredithCorporation2002
All rights reserved.Printedin the U.S.A.
Better Homes and Gardensa WOODa magazine (ISSN-0743-
894X) is publishedseventimes a year in March, May, June/July,
September,October, November, and December by Meredith
Corporation, 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309-3023.
Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, Iowa, and additional
mailing offices. Better Homes and Gardenstrademarkregistered
in Canadaand Australia. Marca Registradaen M6xico. ONE-
YEAR SUBSCRIPTION pnlCeS: U.S. and its possessions,
$28; Canada, $41; other countries, $49. Canada Post
Publications Mail Sales Product Asreement No. 40069223.
canadian BN 12348 2887 RT. ennnnnN RETURN
ADDRESS: Better Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine,
2744 Edna Street, Windsor, Ontario, N8Y lV2. POSTMAS-
TER: Send address changes to Better Homes and Gardens
WOOD magazine,P.O. Box37439, Boone, IA 50037-0439.

$ ^lp^t
\IIOOD rnagazine October 2002
 soundin
0urbulletin
boardforletters,
comments,
andtimelyupdates
board
f|ag cases torrc,fr
recipients and
fruifders
I am a subscriberto your magazine,
and havebuiltmanyof your featured
projects.Littledid I knowwhat was in
storefor me when I receivedthe April
2002 issue.My rollercoasterof emotions
beganwhenthe magazinearrived. Reader Ed Sallee (back /efi) was honored to build flag cases in memory of Gaptain Victor
In that issue,you featuredan article Saracini, and proud to present them to Ellen Saracini and daughters Kirsten and Brielle.
(page 14) on WoodworkersUnitedFor A plaque in the upper left portion of each case bears a memorial and pilot's wings.
America(WUFA).This groupformed family of Captain Victor Saracini: his . I delivered the cases to Mrs. Saracini
with the purposeof providingflag cases wife, Ellen;two daughters,Kirstenand i this past spring(see the photo,above).
to any familymemberof those who per- Brielle;and his mother,Anne. Captain i She and her daughterswere wonderful.
ished as a result of terroristactivitieson Saraciniwas the pilotof UnitedAirlines I'd liketo thankeveryonewho helped
i
Se pt em ber11,2001 . Flight175, the secondplaneto hit the i me with the cases.And thanksto my
I contactedMr. GeorgeDubois,the WorldTrade Center. employer, McOollister's
Transportation
NationalDirectorof WUFA and I can'tbeginto tellyouhowhonoredI i Systems, Inc.of Burlington,New
expressedmy desireto builda couple wasto sharemy loveof woodworking in , Jersey,fortransportingcasesto New
of flag cases.Georgeassignedme the sucha manner. Thankyoufor bringing i YorkfromvariousWUFAchapters.
privilegeof makingflag casesfor the thiswonderful program to my attention. -Edward Sallee,Burlington,
N.J.

A new woodr torking contest thatts literatly 3'For the Bitdstt

Here'syourchanceto wingreatprizes : ingplan,or comeup withsomething their landscapingwith the needsof
anddo a goodturnforyourfine-feathered i entirelyoriginal,we'llofferprizesfor wildlifein mind,whileofferingabundant
friendsas well.WOOb magazine has bothtypesof projects. lncludean entry help in how to do it.
teamedupwithChevrolet andotherprize formwitheachbirdhouse or birdfeeder The NWF ranksas the nation's
sponsors to hostourfirst-everbird- (youcansubmitup to seventotal largestmember-supportedconservation
house/birdfeedercontest, providing entries)andmailitto WOODmaga- group,unitingindividuals, organizations,
$8,000in totalprizes,with zine's"Forthe Birds"contestbeforethe businesses,and governmentto protect
$5,000beingawarded to February 1, 2003deadline. wildlife,wild places,and the environ-
theGrandPrizeWinner. Afterwe judgethe entriesandaward ment.For more on the NWF and its
To enter,simply the prizes,we'llauctionthebirdhouses programs,visit its Web site at
builda birdhouseor andbirdfeedersandturnthe proceeds http://www.nwf.org.
bird feederthat fits overto the NationalWildlifeFederation's
I one of the seven
prize categories
Backyard WildlifeHabitatprogram.
Since1973,thisprogramhashelped
Write Us!
Doyouhavecomments, criticisms,suggestions,
I explainedwith our peoplegardenforwildlife. Theprogram or maybe evena complimentspecifically
relatingto
an articlethat appearedin W00Damagazine?
entry form on page encourageseveryone-homeowners Please writeto:
92. Choose a favoriteexist- andcommunity leaders alike-to plan
SoundingBoard
W00Dmagazine
Tool-test update 1716LocustSt.,GA-310
.StowableSawhorses(issue 142,p.72):
Des Moines,lA 5GXl9-3023
TheWebsiteforTheStanley
Works
iswww.stanleyworks.com.
or,if youprefefsendusane-mailmessageat
Article information online soundingboard@rvoodmagazine.com.
Doyouhavea question ona project?
You'll
finda complete
listing,
fromissue1 throughtoday,
of allknown Dueto the volumeof lettersande-mailswe
to pastW00Dmaguineprojects
updates onourWebsiteat wunr.woodmagazine.com. JustclickonW00D receive,wecanrespondto andpublishonly
magazineontheleftsideofthescreen.
ThenselectEditorial
Extrasfromtheoptionsonthenextscreen. thoseof thegreatestinterestto ourreaders.
great ideas for your shop

flrrsh-
ferilce
A simple router-table setup
for putting a finished edge
on plywood panels.

fenceface flush with the bit's pilot bear-

1f,|H*;i1tlffii?i:i::'"".
had to do a lot of flush trimming on the
ing, and clamp the fence down. Hold the
edgedplywood firrnly againstthe fence as
you make eachpass,and the edging
solid-woodedgingthat dressesup the ply- comesout perfectly flush every time. al
wood panels.He neededa foolproof way
Written by David Stone
to get the job done. A handheldrouter Projectdesign:Charles l. Hedlund
with a flush-trim bit works, but it's easyto lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine
Photograph:Mafi Baldwin
accidentallytip the router and gougethe
edgingand plywood. Chuck solvedthe
problem with the router-table-mounted * All stock 7+"plywood
fenceshownin the photo,aboveright.
Made of 3/q"plywood, the fencesits per-

I
pendicularto the table,as shownat right.
The lower edgeof the fenceis mountedl"
abovethe router-tablesurface,so it accom-
modatesedgingtp to 3/+"thick.
To build the project,cut its identically 11e/q"

I
sizedfenceand baseto ll3/q" wide.
Measureyour router table to determinethe lnsidewidth
matcheslong leg
length. Then cut matching notchesin the of triangularbrace.
baseand fence,positionedto align with
the bit hole in your table.Two triangular
braceshold the baseand fence together.
The cleatsat eachend help positionthe
assemblyon your routertable.
Chuck also addeda supportpanelto the
bracesthat stiffensthe entire assembly.A
hole cut into the supportacceptsa shop-
#8 x 11/z'F.H. 1 x 1" notches,
vacuumhoseto collect chips. wood screws centered
To usethe fence,install a flush-trim bit V+x 1/z x 16" Cleat sits flushwith front
in your table-mountedrouter.Align the edge of base.

10 WOOD magazine October 2002

workshop savvy
safie stonge
for cfrisels
Create a custom insert
to protect sharp edges.
W;irt :h;'"..
the drawerbottomswith felt. Here's how
to add extra protectionfor a setof chisels.
Plan the layorrt
Add up the handlediametersof the chisels
you want to store,and subtractthe total
from the insidewidth of the drawer.
Divide that numberby the spacesthat
you'll needto get an approximatespacing
distance.Our setincludesl0 chisels,so
we neededto accountfor l1 spaces.You
can vary the spacingby making the end
spacesbigger or smallerthan the others.
Make the srrpporils
Placeyour longestchiselwith the handle
flat on your workbench,and measurethe
gapsbeneaththe femrle and the blade.
Also measurethe lengthof the blade.
Now, makebladeand femrle supportsto
matchthosedimensions.
For the bladesupport,planea boardto
7s" thickness,rip itto 43/4",then cut it to a
length t/r0"lessthan the width of the
drawer. For the femrle support,rip a strip
l" wide.Planeitto t/z"thickness,andcut
it to the width of the drawer.Mark the
handlecenterpoints on the edgeof each
support.Extendthe points acrossthe fer-
rule support.
Make a customizedrecessfor eachchisel chiselbfade+ V.ra"'lK
by marking on the edgeof the bladesup-
port the width of eachbladeplus %e",
centeredon the previouslymarkedpoints.
At your tablesaw,seta dadobladeto cut
V+"deep,and cut a dadobetweeneachset
of marks.Use the appropriatechisel and a
scrapof felt to testfor a snugfit.
Keep your chisels
safe from damage,
well organized,and
looking good with
a simple series of
felt-lined dadoes.
Using a bit of the samediameteras the
femrle (we useda 32" Forstner),drill a
hole at eachline on the femrle support
stock.To do this, clamp a fenceon your
drill-presstableto keepthe holeslined up,
and locatethe fenceso that the holeswill
hold the femrlesat the desiredheight.(In
our case.we centeredthe holes Vz"from
the edgeto leave Vs"of wood undereach
femrle.) After drilling the holes,sandboth
faces.Rip the stockthroughthe centerof
the holesto leavea seriesof notches.
Add finish and felt
Apply a stainor clearfinish to matchthe
tool chestor storageunit. Coat the top and
sidesof the femrle support,but only the
front edgeof the bladesupport.
Cut an oversizedpieceof felt from the
fabric store.Mask the edgesof the blade
supportwith tape,then sprayadhesiveon
the top and ends.Removethe tape,and
apply the felt, fitting it tightly into the
dadoesand aroundthe ends.After the
Widthof
drawer
Dado=widthof
j/+" deep_------
\
Distancetrom/
chiselbladeto
ferrule
adhesivesets,tum the supportupside-
down, and trim the felt along the edges
and the endswith a knife.
If your drawerbottom is unlined,cut a
pieceof posterboard %" smallerin length
and width than the insidedimensionsof
the drawer.Apply double-facedtapeto
the bottom of the posterboardaroundits
perimeter.Cut felt 2" largerin length and
width than the posterboard.Centerthe
posterboard,top down, on the felt, trim
off the cornersof the felt, and fold it onto
the tape.Flip the posterboardover, and
pressit into the drawer.
Placestripsof cloth-backed,double-
facedtapeon the bladesupportbottom,
and pressit into the drawer.Finally, apply
double-facedtapeto the bottom of the fer-
rule support,and pressit into place.Q
Lengthof
;llongest
chiselblade
Bladesupport
Lengthof longest
chiselblade
Ferrule
I support
1/z'
Center
diameters
with center
of dadoes
Photograph:Mafi Baldwin
lllustration:Roxanne LeMoine
WOOD magazine October 2002
 re *h* W

A guick tr:rn-aror-rnd
project...

sdt ,-pepper
]AI3EJS
Dust off your lathe, choose any wood-ordinary to exotic-and
you'll have this set finished in an afternoon.

_'!'
:
clclsonre spice to rlcaltinres witlt
Ambrosia-bounty to woodtur ners t h i s p l e a s i n u l v p l L r n t l - rt r , r l n c c l
'' t't - W e m a d e t h e s e s h a k e r sf r o m a m b r o s i am a p l e . s h a k c r : , c t . A l l r o u n e e c li s u
',;* '" l:.." N o t h i n gm o r e t h a n s o f t m a p l e ,t h i s w o o d d e r i v e si t s l a t h c .a c o u p l co 1 ' F o r s t n cbr i t s .l n c l l r a s i e
c o l o r a n d n a m e f r o m t h e a m b r o s i ab e e t l e ,a w o o d - t u r n i n s s k i l l s t r i t i r l n t t h e s e a t t l ' a c t ic\
l-::r
b o r i n g i n s e c t .T h e b e e t l e i n t u r n t a k e s i t s n a m e f r o m clining acccssoriesin a claslr.Wc tLrrrrccl
i t s f a v o r i t ef o o d : a m b r o s i a f u n o u s . this set llonr an LrnLrsual tv1-lcof' nraplc
T h e a m b r o s i ab e e t l e ,o n l y a b o u t 1 / 4 l"o n g , b o r e s p i n - h o l et u n n e l si n t o d y i n g (scc tlrc srclcbar.ft,/i). but an1, s1-rccics
trees and freshlycut logs and lumber.lt does not consume the wood. lnstead,
rvill ckr.
i t i n t r o d u c e st w o t y p e s o f f u n g u s .O n e , t h e a m b r o s i af u n g u s ,g r o w s i n t h e t u n -
n e l s a n d i s e a t e n b y t h e b e e t l e .T h e o t h e r ,a s t a i n i n gf u n g u s ,g i v e s t h e w o o d F o r t h e i t e m s n e e d e dt o b u i l d t h i s
i t s d i s t i n c t i v eg r e e n i s h - g r a tyo b l u i s h - b l a c ks w i r l i n gb a n d s . p r o j e c t ,s e e T o o l s a n d A c c e s s o r i e s
B e c a u s e i t n e e d s t h e m o i s t u r e i n g r e e n w o o d t o s u r v i v e ,y o u w o n ' t h a v e t o a n d t h e B u y i n gG u i d e o n p a g e 1 8 .
w o r r y a b o u t b e e t l e sl i v i n gi n y o u r d r i e d t u r n i n gs q u a r e .
( . r t r t t i r t t t c t tl t r t 1 t u , q cl ( t

14 WOOD rnagazine C:ill ,i'r..i,lf:

salt & pepper shakers

Bore the blanks. and Turn the shakers

make a jarnchrick I Make the ternplate
I Bore the charnbers I trrtakea copy of the shakertemplatefull-size patternon the
IFrom a 3x3x8" tuming square,cut two 33/e"-Iong WOOD PATTERNS@ insert.Use sprayadhesiveto adherethe pat-
shakerblanks.Findthecentersby drawingdiagonals
on tern to a Vax2v4x4"piece of temperedhardboard.Bandsawand
both endsof eachblank. sandthe templateto the patternline.
Chuck a I3/8" Forstner
bit in your drill press. ) T-ue the blanks

&*:,sl* Holding the blanks in a

handscrew clamp, drill
centeredVz"-deepcoun-
Q o ri l ttn e terboresin their bottoms.
counterboreChangeto a 1" Forstner
Cr Mount the first blank on thejam chuck.Make surethe blank
sitscompletelyflat on the chuck.Engagethe tailstockcenter.Use
your 3/e"bowl gougeto shapethe blank into a 3"-diametercylinder.
Tools:Bowlgouge
Toolrest: Belowcenter
with a 1-3le"
Forstner bit, and set the depth
Speed:600-800 rpm
bit. stop to drill within 3/e"of r--| @Ct""n up the entirelengthof the blank.
the bottom of each
blank. Centeringthe bit
in the counterbores. drill
the chambers.

Tools:Drillpress,
1" and1sle"Forstner
bits
Speed:500rpmforthe 1"
bit,250rpmforthe 1-3le"
bit Tailstockcenter

f grru"the blankto 3" diameter.

) Eabticate a iarn chrrck
Er Laminate two z/qx3/zx3Vz"pieces of hardwood
scrapto makealVz"-thick jam-chuckblank.Centeryour
3" faceplateon the blank, trace around it, and bandsaw IYIake
to the line. Drill pilot holes,and screwthe faceplateto garrging crrts
the blank. The screwsshouldpenetrateno more than Vz" Lay the template on the
into the jam-chuck blank. Mount the faceplateon your blank, aligning the bottom of
'shaker
lathe. Using your parting tool, make a gaugingcut at the the profile with the
blank's edge,turning a %" shoulderthat fits tightly into blank's bottom edge. Mark _6
the shaker blank's counterbore.Making overlapping the locations of the critical
cuts with your parting tool, widen the shoulderto 1/r0", diameters. Using a parting
maintaininga snugfit in the blank's counterbore. tool and outside calipers,
make gauging cuts in the
Tools:Partingtool
Tool rest: Center blank to the diametersindi-
Speed:800-1,200rpm cated on the template, as
shown in the photo, right.
Screws penetrate
no more than t/2". QU fitl[:[i,nnn?#J'nn "'' Tools: Partingtool, calipers
in the blank's Tool rest: Center
_-) counterbore. Speed:800-1,200 rpm
Q H4arfthe locationsof
Ine cflilcatorameters.
_T
I
Frictionfit in
blank's1ele"
counterbore
I
:,,
rfi
lt-

@ Cut to the diametershownon the template.

the shoulder. Corttinued on page IB

16 WOOD magazine October 2002

salt & pepper shakers
Forrn the side profile
Using a 3/s"spindlegouge,form the sideprofile on the shaker's
lower section.Cut away the jam chuck, where shown, to provide
clearancefor your tuming tool, and later for checking the profile
with the pattern.
Tool: Spindlegouge
Tool rest: Slightlybelow center
Speed:1,200-1,600rpm
ii \=zi
_ 't _ _ _ _ _ { _ _ _ _ _ _ _j_:____-___________ _
f
n_ \@ rormthesideprofile.
O crt 1"r chuck.
"*"y
Roll the
beads
Roll the beads with your
parting tool. Switch to
yout 3/+"skew chisel, and
form the domed top, cutting
as close to the tailstock
center as possible. Dis-
engage the tailstock, and
finish the top of the dome.
Form a slight V-groove at
the baseof the lower bead,
as shownin the photo,left.
Check your profile with
the template.
Tools:Partingtool,
skewchisel
Tool rest: Slightlyabove
center
Speed:800-1,200rpm
@ Porr a shallowV-groove.
@ Oisengagethe tailstock,
and finishthe top
of the dome.
ilw
0 O Formthedome,working
as closeas possible
to
the tailstockcenter.
18
Finishingup
Dritl the shaker holes
1
I With the lathe running,use a pencil to mark the cen-
ter and a s/s"-diarnetercircle centeredon the dome top.
Stop the lathe.Using your toolrestas a straightedge,mark
90o "crosshairs" through the centerpoint to locate the
holes for the salt shaker. (Draw a single straight line
through the center for the pepper shaker.) Remove the
shaker from the jam chuck. To keep the drill bit from
wandering on the curved surface, mark hole locations
with an awl at the center and where the lines intersect
the circle.Chuck aVr6"bit in your drill pressand drill the
holes through the dome into the chamber.
HOLELAYOUTS
D Apply the finish
Cr Remount the shaker on the jam chuck. Sand the
shakerwith a progressionof 120- 220- 320-grit sandpa-
pers. Apply a clear finish. We used Mylands Friction
Polish, following the directionson the bottle. When the
finish dries, clear the shaker holes by twisting a Vrs"
drill bit through them. Repeatthe turning and finishing
stepswith the other shakerblank. For quick recognition,
stain the peppershakerbefore applying the clear finish.
We usedZAR no. 113 Fruitwood stain.To absorbthe
latentmoisturein the wood and keep the salt and pepper
dry, add a teaspoonof dry rice grains to the shakers
when filling them. Push the rubber bungs into the bot-
toms of the chambers.See the Buying Guide for our
sourcefor the finish, bungs,and turning blank. lF
ToolsandAccessories:
3"faceplate,
%"bowlgouge,
parting
tool,
%"spin-
dlegouge,3/"
skew outside
chisel, and1"and17s"
calipers, Forstnerbits.
Buying Guide
Finishandbungs. MylandsHigh Build
Friction
Polish(4-ounce
bottle)
no,949-4000,$5.50ppd,;
rubberbungs (2),kitno.923-0148,
forl" holes
$9.99ppd.Available
fromsourcelisted
belorv.
Finish,bungs,andwood.ltems above plusthe3x3x8"turning listed.
square
Ashno.901 -8700,
$13.99ppd.;mapleno,901-8701, $13.99ppd.;walnut
no.
901-8702, ppd.,
$15,99 ambrosiamaple no,901-8703,$15.99ppd.Prices
a 10percent
reflect to W00Do
discount magazinereaders.CraftSupplies
USA, orgotowww.woodturnerscatalog.com.
Call800/551-8876,
Written by Jan Svec with Phil Brennion and Jeff Mertz
Projectdesign: Kevin Boyle
lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
Photographs:Marty Baldwin
WOOD magazine October2002
blades and bits
ftirdrs-rnou
frits
Making cones, columns, or cylinders is a
barrel of fun and requires little monkeying
around when you use one of these unique cutters.
wd"Hl+5#::,#lv
The bird's-mouthjoint tops a miter
joint for a numberof reasons:First, intro-
ducing the cutaway "mouth" createsmore
booms.We landlubberscan take advan- gluing surface.Secondly,the mouth cra-
joint,
tageof this sffongedge-to-edge dles the mating workpiece, making it
shownattop right, when making cylindri- nearly impossiblefor the joint to slip out
cal objects,suchas columns,archedchest of alignment during a glue-up. Finally,
lids. or turnedvessels. you cut only one sideof thejoint, so you
reduceyour machining time-and
chancefor error-by half.
A rorrter bit rnakes
the ioint foolproof
Boatbuildersmakethe bird's-
mouth joint on very long pieces
using a tablesaw.As with any
multi-faceted project, though, a
tiny error in the cutting angle can
becomehuge when compoundedat
eachjoint. You'll reduceyour error
rate to near nil, however, when you
machineyour workpieceswith a
bird's-mouthrouterbit (Ire Valley
Tools, www.leevalley.com,or
800/871-8158). By foing the cut-
ting angle at the factory, thesebits
virtually guaranteeyour success
when making 6-, 8-, I2-, ot 16-
sidedcylinders.
So, how many sidesdo you
need?That dependsultimately on
the natureof the project. The more
Leave a small, flat bearing surface above (or sidesin your cylinder, the smoother
below) the cutter for the workpiece to ride the curve. If you plan to turn the
against the outfeed fence. This "rib" can be
sanded or hand-planed away after assembly, or cylinder blank round, more sides
left intact for a decorative effect. alsomeanlesswaste,becauseyou
20
can use thinner stock to constructthe
blank. On the other hand, if you want the
cylinder to have an angular,facetedlook,
usefewer sides.
For a simplecolumn, settingup to use
the bit is as simpleas thejoint is sffong.In
your router table, install the proper bit for
the numberof sides(or staves)in your
cylinder. Set the bit's cutting height to
leavea small (say, Vzz"),flat bearingsur-
face on the workpiece,as shownin the
photo at left.
After routing all the stavesfor the cylin-
der, apply glue to the routededges,stand
the staveson end, and clamp them togeth-
er with bandclamps.If you havea lot of
sidesto assemble,a pair of scrapwood
discs that fit inside the cylinder will help
keepit round.
Think orrtside
the cylinder
Want to be a little more creative?You can
use the joint to decorateand "break" the
edgesof a caseor chest,as shownin the
photo on page 22. Or, if you're up for a
challenge,usebird's-mouthbits to create
taperedcylinders or cones,like the ones
illusfratedonpage 22.
Things start to get a little tricky here,
though, as the number of stavesin the
conedoesn'tnecessarilymatchthe num-
ber of the cutter. (For example,the
l2-side cuttercan be usedto cut cones
with 3-12 staves.)The fewer the staves,
Continuedonpage22
WOOD rnagazine October 2002
 wIN
ano
FLOOR SEATS
AND BEAUTIFUL t h c l ' l u t t c rl l t c c o n c l r I : r t l c t l eo n e l t r o l ' :

WOODFLOORS- I t k c i t s r l L u r s h cpt lr n r n r i t l .r i h i l c l r n I I -
s i t l c t le o n c i s n c i r r l i l e r i i n t l - ' r '\.' o L r u i l l

COURTESYOF
VARATHANE.''
Now y ou c an ac hie v e b e a u ti fu l l y
re fi n i shed wood f loo rs b y y o u rs e l f
w i th V ar at hane@ Di a mo n d W o o d
Fi n i sh pr em ium polyu re th a n e sW . i th
Varathanethe result is a professional
n c c c lt o r l o : o r r r c l ' i r L r r i r i rt o r l c t c l n t i n ct l t c
c L r t t i n tl n S l c s l i r r t l r c s t r r \c \ . I ) c t l u l c r l
i n s t r u c t i o n sl r r t t l. i n t l r l c l i r l n r L r l r rl .i ,r r n l r l . -
i n g t l t c e l L l c i r l l r t i ( )r r' (\ ) n r -u i t l r t l t c h i t s
I J c l i r r cr r i t t l r t t r . \ \ c c n c ( ) u r i r ! a\ ( ) u l ( )
r i c u t l r c i r r s t l t rtei o n n t t r r r r r l(r)l n I . e c
V l l l c r ' s \ \ c b s i t c . . \ t \ l ( r c r r el t . t l r c s c
t h r c c b r t s ( o r . t cl o r l i . o n c l i r r l 6 - . l r n t l o r r e
l i r r '( r - l n r l I l - s i t l c c l e r l i n t l c r ' r) l r c n ' t h r r t l
t c t l r t ' c l r l ' , c t 'hst.t t r o r r ' I l \ \ ; . r i r t1 ( )l n t r l \ c \ u l ' c
r o u g c t t h c r i g l r l l r i t l i r r r o L r r ' p r t r j c cltF.

fi n i sh wit h long las ti n g d u ra b i l i ty . , i,,

And noq Varathaneis giving you the W r i t t e n b y D a v e C a m p b e l l r , L ' t l J. e f f M e r t z Use a bird's-mouth bit to soften (or high-
opportunity to see your favorite pro Photographs:Marty Baldwin light) the corner joints of a large project,
l l u s t r a t i o n :T i m C a h i l l such as an entertainment center"
basket ball play er s i n a c ti o n . T h e
America's Most Flawed Floor Contest
w i fl awar d one Gra n d Pri z e f,-tr-*;,.: B I R D ' S - M O U TBHI T SC A N M A K E
w i n ner wit h ev er y t h i n g n e e d e d to T H E S ES H A P E SA N D M O R E
re fi n i sh t heir wood f l o o rs , i n c l u d i n g
Vara thane Diam ond Wo o d F i n i s h
pro duc t s , as well as tw o fl o o r s e a t
ti cke ts t o t he m os t s ta r-p a c k e d
professional basketball game of the 8 sides
12-side cutter
ye ar (tr av elandhot el in c l u d e d ).

Chest lid
16-sidecutter
6 sides
6-side cutter

':ri:
+-€,$,.$$tn-,
:
, ::-..'

Floons rHrsBEAUTTFUL
H A V E N E V E RB E E N S O E A S Y .

Contestis open August I - November30, 2002 to

adultsagesI 8 andover.Enteronlineat varathane.com,
or mail entries,includingfirst and last name,date of
birth, address(includingzip code),telephonenumber,
color photographof your wood floor and a description
in I OOwordsor lessof whyyour woodfloors needto be
refinished. Mail entry in a stamped envelope to:
America's Most Flawed Floor Contest, ZOO E.
1 5s i d e s
RandolphDr, 63rd Floor,Chicago,lL 60601. Entries
1 6 - s i d ec u t t e r 1 1s i d e s
mustbepostmarkedbySaturday, November3O,2OO2. 1 2 - s i d ec u t t e r
No purchasenecessary.Void where prohibited.For
officialcontestrulesvisit varathane.com
22 WOOD rnag,azine
www.varathane.com @20O2 Rust-OleumCorporation
project designer'snotebook

c,frifd-safie
frdbeds
Bunk beds save
space-a welcome
feature for a youngf,
growing family.
Equally important
is that they are
designed with
safety in mind.
Here's what you
need to know
before you plan
your own bunk
beds or modify
existing plans.

afety standardsfor
bunk bedswereadopt-
edby theU.S.
ConsumerProductsSafety
Commission in 1999.These flwith themattress removed,any
standards applyto any bed V-/op.ning in theseareason both side
havingthe undersideof its andboth end structures of the upperbunk
foundationmorethan30" mustbe smallenoughto preventthe
abovethe floor. For the completetext of passage of a 3t/2"-diameter rigid sphere.
the standards,includingmethodsof testing the mattress removed,any
f$wirn
for compliance,go to the CPSCWeb site Vopening in thisareaof theend
at www.cpsc.gov. Click on search,and structuresof the lower bunk mustbe
type in "bunk bed standards."Click on
"SafetyStandardfor Bunk Beds."
You'll needAdobeAcrobatto view
@;rul:rT
one suardrail is allowed for ladder access.
smallenoughto preventthe passage
3t/2"-diameter rigid sphereor large
enoughto allow the passage of a
of a

the document. (/)Guardrails must be attachedto the 9"-diameterrigid sphere.

To makeit easierto understand these
standards,we'veboiledthemdownto
ninekey points:
ftf*o guardrailsare required.
\!-/tf a ladderis attachedto one side.
the guardrailon the othersidemust
be continuous.
lfifne gapbetweenthecontinuous
V nuutdrailandthe end structures
aunnofa*a eed7,/tz"
. cornerposts.
\-7bed in a manner that prevents
accidentaldislodging or intentional
removal by a child.
top of the guardrailsmust
fflrn.
\Ybe a[ least5" abovethe top of
the mattress.
upperedgeof the upperbunk
fflrh.
Y/end structures mustbe at least5"
abovethe top of the mattressfor at least
50 percentof the distancebetweenthe
fi)witfr the mattress removed,any
\9opening in thisareaof theend
structuresof the lower bunk largeenough
to allow the passage of a 9"-diameter
rigid spheremustbe configuredto avoid
the entrapmentof a child's neck.i
l,,lote:Whilenot a requirementof the
CPSCstandard,we recomnxend screwinR
the mattressplaforms to the bedrails.
lllustration: Roxanne LeMoine. Lorna Johnson

24 WOOD rnagazine October 2002

 short
Newsandnotesfromthewoodworking
world
Dowuharrcaven
for yesterday'sioots?
Your father gaveyou an old wooden
molding plane;your great-uncleleft you a
century-oldhandsaw.At a garagesale
down the steet, you boughtup a pair of
woodenhandscrewsfor next to nothing.
Somewherealong the way you caughtthe
antique{ool-collectingbug, but wheredo
you go from here?Try the Mid-West Tool
CollectorsAssociation.
Begunin Chicagoin 1968with just 16
members,the M-WTCA
hassinceblossomedinto
an organizationof 4,(X)0.
But dontt let the name
fool you: Membershipspansall50 states
and six counfries.
According to the mission statemenlthe
M-WTCA dedicatesitself 'to the study,
preservation,and understandingof the
early tools, implements,and devicesused
by our ancestorsin their liomes, shops,on
the farms, and on the seaS,and to a better
perceptionof the indusftiesand crafu in
which thesetools were used."That means
more thanjust woodworking tools, though
thesetools play a significantpart.
As a member of the M-WTCA, not only can you research antique tools, such as these,
you develop friendships with like-minded collectors that can last a lifetime.
26
Circle No. 50
cuts
A membershipfee of $25 per year ($33
for Canadaand $40 for other counfries)
entitlesyou to severalworthwhile benefits.
You get a subscriptiontoTHB GNST-
MIIL, a quarterly magazinecontaining
educationalarticleson tool collecting.You
receivereprintsof out-of-print tool-related
literature,ffade manuals,and catalogs.
And, finally, you can affendthe area
meetingsheld in any of the 18 geographic
locations,or the biannual
nationalmeetings.
Thesemeetingsinclude
toursto museumsand
restorations,lecfures,seminars,and films
and demonsfrationsof early crafts.They
alsoprovide spacewherememberscan
display their specialcollections,and bring
along antiquetools for saleand tade.
For an applicationform, or more infor-
mation on M-WTCA, write to Mid-West
Tool CollectorsAssociation,Inc., P.O.
Box 8016,Berkeley,CA9n07, USA, or
go to theirWeb siteat www.mwtca.org
and seetheir home page.
Photograph by John G. Wells
WOOD magazine October 2002
 A, nrut,hgft? wood anecdote

t0Ht855.Bdoo
The "wood" that comes from grass

i:i
ew Westerners think
of bambooasany-
thing but a houseplant,
gardenaccent,or snackfor a
panda.But throughoutmuch of
the world, bambooprovides
YOUCANgivegouroutdoor metal
durablebuildingmaterial.Soon, ,
furniture
andarressories atrulg more of us in the United States
distinilive
lookwithFust-0leum may find bambooright underour
Stops'Fust aerosol paints.
Therhip feet, literally, as bambooflooring ,
resistanreandcolorretention gou've is a hot new trend.
tometoexpert fromFust-0leum are Surprisingly,bambooisn't even ,;
Natural
nowavailable inexciting
finishes surh wood-it's grass,and an amazing l Bamboo'snaturalcolor
asMetallir, Hammered,Satin and grassat that. Theseprolific, tree- is lighttan. Heatingthe
like plants(hundredsof varietiesexist) stalks"carbonizes" and darkensthem.
Textured.0on'tneed torepaintthe Theflooringcross-sections, top,show
furniture?
Trgit onoutdoorlightfixtures. grow incredibly fast. Plantsreachharvest- "vertical"planks(left)and "horizontal"
ing size(around20') in 3-5 years,then (right).Planksmeasure37ex36".
Infart,Bust-0leum workswonders
regrowaftercutting.
onwood,ronrrete ormasonrg. And
Bambooflooring,above,consistsof wide are laminatedin two-or threelayers.
remember, Fust-0leum paints are
stalks(calledculms)cut into strips,planed In "vertical" planks,the stripsare face-
alwags athome proieils,
oninterior too. to about3Ad"thick,andgluedinto planks. glued,which exposesthe culms' edges.
In the "horizontal" Planksjoin usingtonguesand grooves.
.+
style,stripsabout1" The result is a beautiful,even-toned
floor without knots or wild grain.Instead,
HOW T0 paintpreviouslg
painted just thin, straightlines remain,intemrpted
metaland/orpartiallg rustedsurfares: only by subtlemarkingsat the
1. Sand orwirebrush toremove all culmjoints.
looserustand/or rhippingpaint. More surprisingthanbamboo'slooksis
2. Finseanddrgthoroughlg. A rlean, its strength.A bamboofloor provides50
drgsurface isessential. percentmore dimensionalstability than
3. Prime rusted areas with red oak, and rivals maplein hardness.
Rust-0leum' FustgMetalPrimer. Bamboohasa lieht hue.but takeson a
Forallotherareas, primewith carameltone when the stalksare heat-
Hust-0leum' fleanMetalPrimer. ed and "carbonized."The color runs
Forlightlgrusted areas,gouran throughout,eliminatingthe needfor stain.
useFust-[Jleum FustReformer' Not all flooring retailersstockbamboo,
whichneutralizes rustandcreates but it is gettingmore common.Pricing
asurfacethatcanbetopcoated. comparesto maple,at $5-$7 per square
4. Paint,andtakeprideingour foot, uninstalled.
improvement! As bamboogainspopularity,look for
After harvest,
bamboo plants more productsmadefrom theseversatile
Visitwww.rustoleum.rom for information
onthe regeneratefrom plants,suchasdoor panels,veneered ply-
entireportfolio
of Fust-0leum paints
top-qualitg the existing wood, andevenlaminated"boards"for
andsurfareroatings. stalks. This
accelerates new furniture.JF
growth and
nusr*terEux
BRANDS
eliminatesthe
need for
Written by David Stone with
Peter J. Stephano
replanting. Photographs:Marty Baldwin
s t o p p i n gr u s t i s i u s t t h e s t a r t l "
WOOD magazine October 2002
sho youworkfaster,
Helping andsafer
smarter,
ti
Sander swings into action,
swirrels to stotv
Sometimes a benchtoppowertool,such
as a drumsander,storesefficiently fac-
ing one direction,but mustbe rotatedto
go to work.Othertimes,suchas with a
belVdiscsander,thereare two working
positions.I solvedtheseproblemsby
creatinga benchtopplatformthat rotates
on a lazy-Susan bearing.Here'show
you can,too.
Cut the platformttom 3/q"plywood.Drill
holesthroughit for the mountingbolts,
and installT-nutson the undersideof
the platform.Test-fitthe tool,making
certainthatthe boltsdon'tprotrude
morethan 1/q", or theywill dragon the
bench.lf theydo, buy shorterboltsor
hacksawthemto length.
Removethe tool,and screwthe lazy-
Susanbearingto the bottomof the plat-
fo rm,D ri ll1" accesshol esthroughthe
platform,and screwthe assemblyto
your bench.Mountthe tool,and rotateit
intoits workingposition.
D ri l la s/0"hol enearone
cornerof the baseand
intoyour benchto
accepta bolt that keeps
the platformfromturning
w hi l eyou' rew orki ng.
-Ken Prill,
Falls,Wis.
Chippewa
Continuecl on page 32
\ nnner
You might think a guy who designs
and builds high-endcustomfurniture
for a living learnedhis art at the side
of a mastercraftsman.But Ken Prill
learnedit all by reading."I'll bet I
have 500 books andmagazineson
woodworking," our Top ShopTip
winner says.
Ken often adornshis work with
hand-carved features.And business
must be good becausehe haslittle time
to pursuecarvingfor pleasure,as with
the elk relief he startedthreeyearsago
(shownabove).We're gladhe took the
time to sendin the Top ShopTip, at
left, andwe think you will be too.
For sending
this issue'sTop
ShopTip,we're
sending Ken Prill an
HTC Multi-Fence 50" #,--l
tablesaw fence sys-
tem. Attaboy, Ken!
Tell us how you've solveda workshop
dilemma,andwe'll sendyou $75 if we
print your solution.And, if we name
your tip asthe Top ShopTip, you'll
alsowin a tool worth at least$250.
Sendyour besttips, along with pho-
tos or illustrationsand your daytime
telephonenumber,to: Shop Tips,
WOODaMagazine,IT16 Locust St.,
GA-310,Des Moines,IA 50309-
3023. You can alsoe-mail tips to
shoptips@woodmagazine.com,or
post them on our Top ShopTip forum
at www.woodonline.com.
Becausewe try to publish only origi-
nal tips,pleasesendyour tips only to
WOOD magazine.Sorry, but we can't
return your materials.
WOOD magazine October 2002
 shop tips

Foolproof hanging
rnlith keyhole slots
Keyholeslotsare a greatway to affix
woodenhangings,suchas a shelfor
picture,to a wall.But if the mounting
screwsaren'tperfectlylevel,or spaced
exactlythe same as the slots,the job
can becomea nightmare. Here'sa solu-
tion that worksgreat.
I attachshortpiecesof maskingtape
to the top of my leveland, usingthe
keyholeslotsthemselves,I markthe
locationsof the slotson the tape,as
shownin Step 1. lf I wantto centerthe
wall hangingbetweentwo objects,I also
r'i;;:l:,::;:l
p.ll
makea third mark.centeredbetween
the two marks.
Afterfindingthe mountinglocationfor
the shelf,I markthe centerof the shelf
at the correctheight.I placethe level's
centermarkon that mark,makecertain
it's level,then markthe screwlocations
usingthe othertwo marks,as shownin
Step2. Finally,I drivethe mounting
screwson thosemarks.My hangings
are alwaysrighton the moneyand level.
-Bill Vanderhoot
Hanover,
Pa.

SmallArchDoorSet.ltem# 800.524.11

Sometimes the littlethingsmakethe biggestdifference,andwhen it comesto finefur-

niture,the detail that makesthe most lastingimpressionis the constructionof the @
doors.Designedfor CMTby masterwoodworkerLonnieBird,our Divided Light Door Mark centerline and keyhole-slot
Setand SmallArch Door Set let you createbeautifullycrafteddoorsthat will speakof locations on masking tape affixed
your dedicationand craftsmanship for generationsto come. to level.

Eachset includesthree1/2"shankrouterbitsthat delivercleancuts,rock-solid joints

and elegantdetail.And everyCMTbit featuresthe fineststeeland micrograincarbide,
anti-kickback
designand our trademark orange*nonstickcoating.Forthe perfectfin-
ishingtouch on your next projectlook to CMT,wheretwo generationsof toolmaking
expertisearethe perfectmatchfor your heirloomqualitywork.
\/
VisityourCMTDistributor
forthefinestrouterbits,
sawblades,shaper
accessories
cutters,
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cfttil
rk r,^qO?ANQE,*,,
For a distributorin your
area call: 888-268-2487,
or visit our websiteat:
www.cmtusa.com

Continued on page j4
WOOD magazine October 2002
Your Hands. Your Tools. Your Fcmily's Comforl.
You con put it oll togetherwith o
RodiontFloorComponyunderfloor
heotingsystem.
We giveyou oll the informotionond
our technicionswork WITH you to
designo system to suityour needs.
Our instollotionmonuolis pocked
with dozensof loborsovingtips.
Forusewith q domestic woterheoter
or boiler. Coll for o freequote.
We tokethe mysteryout of
RodiqntHeot.
Visitourwebsiteondseehowsimple
ond offordobleit con be.
www. rod io ntcompq ny.com
Toll Frce |.865-WAR h-TOES
r-86-927-6863 . r -802-525-1132
GAS, PROPANE,SOIAR, OIL, WOOD, EIECTRIC,GEOTHER'iAAI
Toll free customerossistonce. Free Design Service . Free Brochure' Low Prices
shop tips
Pine plrrgs solve
parilicleboard prr-zlet
I recently wasfacedwithinstalling
hingeson the lidof a toy boxmadeof
particleboard-amaterialnotorious for
notholdingscrewswell.Afterpuzzling
overit for awhile,I finallydecidedto
givethescrewssomething moresub-
stantialto biteinto.
Aftermarking thehingelocations, I
useda Forstner bitto bore7e"holesat
eachscrewlocation, justdeepenough
pine
to accept%" flat-top, tapered,
plugsat eachlocation. (Plugsworkbet-
terthandowelsbecause, withdowels,
you'rescrewing intoendgrain.)
I gluedtheplugsin placeandtapped
themflush,thenimmediately marked
anddrilledpilotholesforthescrews,
andinstalled the hinges,As I drovethe
screws, theyspreadtheplugsjust
enoughto forma tightbondwiththe
particleboard. I expectthesejointswill
outlastthe toy boxitself!
-Jon Murphy,Auburn, Wash.,
viaW00DONLINE@

IlIFORMATIOil
WORTH WRITITIG
FOR
A fflomentat Yaepr
Tirnefsr a Wealthof
{fiterffiatian'
Top-qualitycatalogsandbrochures
from the nation'sleadingwood-
workingcompanies; the easyway
for thosewho enioywoodworhing
to exploreproductsand services
that will enhancethe entire
experience. Beforeyou start your
nextproiect,turnto thebackof this
magazine, complete theordercard
andreceive a wealthof.,.
ilFonmAn0il
w0HrH
WRMilGFOR
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| 6,S26 34 WOOD magazine October 2002
Gard trick prevents harnrnef dents
WheneverI get an unsolicited plastic
card in the mail,I saveit, sometimes
usi ngit as a s pr ead efo r r g l u eo r s p a c k -
l i n g.B ut m y f av or iteu s e i s a s a n a i l i n g
sh ieldt o or ev entha m m e d r e n tso n
woodsurfaces.
Preparing a cardfor useis easy:Simply
drillor punchholeslargerthanthefinish-
ingnailsor bradsyou'lldrive.Afterdriving
thefastener flushwiththe card,usea nail
setto slightlyburythe head.
A securitynote:Old phonecardsand
membership cardsare goodcandidates
for thisapplication, but creditcards
shouldbe completely destroyed,
-Joe Carlino,Plainfield, lll.

Fixtrrre steps up to lend a hand

To supportworkpieces, I madea sim- r "steps,"as shownbelow.Eachstep
ple T-shapedfixturethat securesto my i setsthe correctheightfor a different
portableclampingworkstation. By i tool.Now when I needto supporta long
adjustingthe heightof the fixture,I can : or wideworkpiece,I simplyclampthe
useit withvarioustools,suchas my table- , fixturebetweenthe jaws of the worksta-
saw,radial-arm saw,routertable,etc, , tion, restingit on the appropriatesteps,
To instantlyadjustto the proper , and the heightis spot-oneverytime.
heightfor each tool, I addedhardboard : -Al Finch, Md.
Baltimore,

2x4 support,30" long

"r-T .*{) | 3/ax 13/ax 14" cleats

o',.ffii 1 3/a"
"iF
\
screwed to PlYwood
illit;?';dppori

/+" hardboard steps,

2" wide

7+" plywood,
10"wide

11/z"hanging hole
@
G
-@

-N
\\r
\\

Continued on page .J6

vvwur.woodonline. com 35
 shop tips

Ghrrte sarrdirrg drrst

riglrt into vac hose
Graba scrappieceof 2x10andmakea
drill-press
accessory thathelpsmake
drum-sandinga lessdustyoperation.
Usea holesaw to drillthecentered
3"
hole,andcutthechutewithyourband-
saworjigsaw,Then,clampthejig to
yourdrill-press
table.Aircurrentscreat-
ed bythespinning drumdirectdustinto
thechute,andthevacuum systemtakes
overfromthere.
-Ernest Peters,Brighton,)ntario

BulldaPlctule
Frene upholrtor
ac[alr

@
+
Ere

M M

lnstalllnsulation ryn"ffflP
& 5,/8'Dred
lalls,bo.

There
ares0many
iobstheuersatile
ARROW
TsO'PBil
Staple+Nail
Guncando.
It shoob6 differentsizestaplesandalsodrives And,becauseof itsall-steel
construction
with
a 5/8"bradnail.Thanks to its"EasySqueeze carbonhardened steelworkingparts,the
Double leverage Mechanism" andcushioned ruggedT5O'PBN willbea reliable
member of
grip,thistool isa breeze
to use. yourtoolboxfor manyyearsto come.

Ann(Mfuqlsanil sapplies
areavailable
at hone centers,
Iunberyards
andfiardwarestores.
U.S.A.:
Arrow FastenerCompany,Inc.,27t MayhillStreet,Saddle Brook,N.J.07663
United Kingdom: Arrow Fastener tU.K.lLtd., t4 BarclayRoad,Croydon,SurreyCRotJN *For 1%" vacuum hose
Canada:JardelDistributoF,lnc.,6505Metropolitan Blvd.East,Montreal,
euebecH1plX9
O 2OO1ARROWFASTENER
CO,. INC.

36 WOOD magazine October 2002

Lav it on the line Simplymarkthe boardwhereyou want
for precise
] t -

crrtoffs to cut it, positionthe stopagainstthe

Takea few minutesto buildthis cut-off edgeof yourworkpiece, and alignthe
jig in yourshop,and you'lltake accuracy end of the jig withthe markedcutline.
withyou anywhere.The jig, shownin the P u s hy oursaw acrossthe j i g,and you' l l
fopdrawing,was designedfor 6" deck slicethe boardrighton the money.
boards,but you can easilyscalethe Rose.
Richard Durham.Maine
conceptto any size-or any miter
angle-you need.
Af t erbuilding t he j i g a
littleoversized, use your
circularsaw againstthe
fenceto trim the end of
the jig t o f inalleng th .
The end now represents
the cut that particular
sawwillm ak e.

Post rrotes on proiect buildthe projectlater,l'll havethe ben-

rrpdates arild hints
An issueor two aftera projectappears
in a woodworking magazine, you'll
sometimesreadsuggestions from read-
ers who havebuiltit. WhenI run across
theseitems,I jot themon self-adhesive
notepaperand stickthe noteson the
firstpageof the originalarticle.Or, if
there'san accompanying drawing,I pho-
tocopythe magazineupdateand tape
thatto the originalarticle.Thatway, if I
efitof others'experience rightat hand.
-Mike Brenton, Chemainos,
8.C.,
viaW00D ONLINE
Get a new Shop Tip every week-
day when you log on to our Web
site at www.woodonline.com. Just
clickon "ShopTip of the Day"to
work smarter,not harder.

www.woodonline.com 37
The BestPlaceto
B*y Over 700
DeltaTools askwood
t0 yourquestions
Answers fromletters,
Online andW00D
e-mails, ONL|NEo
at the loutestprices
guaranteei
Mate.lring aged cfrerty
I
Istxsr ! l*':ligr!J'
\rwdr

**;;l ;i;..'l tw r;FI ffi*

can be the pits
n I knowcherrydarkensas it and now the owner of the Irion Lumber

\| ages, but I'mwonderinghowto Co. in Pennsylvania,points out that cheny

copewiththatfactin two differentsitu- darkens beneath the surface over the
ations:lf youaddcabinets alongside years. As for darkening new boards. Lou
somethatwererecently builtand has tried some chemical aging methods,
installed,willthecolordifference
even but hasn't been satisifedwith the lesults.
out?Andwhataboutplacingnewcabi- That leavesyou with the possibility of
netsnextto somethatwerebuiltback staining.But if you stain the new wood to
in the 1970s? the perfect color, the look will chan-qeas
-Don Borden,
vraW00D0NLINE years go by. And if you set out to stain
both new and old wood to a matching
#rl-2ee We have good news and bad color. "You would have to go so dark that
E
I4" BrtndSaw news, Don. Cherry starts to dark- the stain would cover up the natural look
en immediately after it's surfacedand of the wood. That would defeat the pur-
exposedto light. br"rtnew projects should pose of using an inherently beautiful wood
"catch up" to projectsthat have been fin- like cherry," Lou says.
ished within the past year or so. That's Of course,there's anotherway to get
assumingthat the lumber used in both old and new to match perlectly. You
projects was the same shade to begin could remove the face frames.doors. and
with. and finished the same way. drawers fiorn your old cabinets.and build
Now. the bad news.It's not likely that replacementsfrom the same batch of cher-
new chery will ever match cherry that has ry yoll use for the new cabinets.
been darkening for 20 or 30 years.Your -W00Do magazine
best bet is to flnd some aged cheny, and
build with that.
Other optionsinclude
some big chal- ffiE
#28- I 50 lenges.You can't
rt r 9" Br,rrh
Brzndsaw lightenup the
woodin old pro-
('t , jects by sanding: i
Jhop at Lou lrion, lon_e- ,;ri
tutrtu),
amazon,com/ delta tirne builder of
period furniture
*\W u,ill natc/.t otr cornperirors prirc pltrs
h-fo"-.
g/$., beat ir b_yt0o/o of tlr di.ff retttt. i:ittd orrt You might be able to match this raw
tunz0)t.L'urtt/pri* - t tr,rtt l'.
ttto)'ei t r(u' tt,.,t cherry board with this finished drawer,
which has aged for a
year. But, the
Callfor your FREE
TootCribcatalog
older the
1-8oo-6lS-St4o original
piece,the
harder it is to
Toor-s & HnnowARE match it.

amazoll.com" 38 WOOD rnagazine October 2002

For the rorrter
tlratts lost its grip
f| I'vebeenusingmy faithful
Y routerfor over20 years.but
nowthe bits arestartingto work loose.
Withthe routermountedin a table,the
bit graduallyrisesup andbitesdeeper
intothe woodas I work.Canthis prob-
lembefixed?
-James
Peterson.
A4ron,
0hio

Jim, you probablycan solve it by

replacingor cleaningthe collet.
To removethe collet for examination.
turn the locknut as usual,but keep turn-
ing until it comesfree of the router and
releasesthe collet. Use a round brush
The variation in oak grain really encour-
with fine bristlesmadeof brassor cop- ages a small drill bit to wander off
per to clean dirt and rust from the inside course. Mark the spot with a sharp awl,
of the collet, then sprayon a light coat and insert the bit deep into the chuck.
of WD-40 or other light oil to protect
againstfuture rusting.Wipe off any Tarnirrcl a ltit thatts
excesswith a rag or papertowel. born td ttlander
1|f I needto drill several3/sz" holes
Y in the edge of a disc,but can't
keepthe drill bit fromwandering. I
knowa brad-point bit wouldhelp,but I
don'tknowif theymakeonethatsmall.
Anyotherideas?
-Steye,vaW00D
ONL|NEo

Keepyour routercolletscleanso that
they'llkeepa firm grip on your bits.We
wentto a gun shop to find a bristle
brushthat fits this t/c"collet.
Reinstallthe collet and do somerouting.
If the slippagecontinues,you might need
a new collet. Checkwith your dealeror
call Tools On Sale.a divisionof Seven
CornersHardware,at 800/328-0457. They
carry colletsfor most brandsand models.
A final tip: Get in the habit of removing
the bit after completingeachrouteropera-
tion. That helpsto keepthe collet flexible.
_{IVOODomagazine
Woodworker'sSupply carriesa
t/tz" brad-point bit with a hex
shank,Steve.Call 800/645-9292and
order item number 824-192for $7.99.
They also have Vs"and rAa"brad-points.
In most cases,however,you shouldbe
able to keep almostany drill bit where
you want it by marking the hole location
with a sharpawl beforeyou drill. When
using a straight-shank bit, placeit deep
into the chuck to keep it from wobbling.
-1ff00Dmagazine
Got a qrrestion?
lf you're
lookingforananswertoa woodworking
question,writetoAskW00D,1716 Locust St.,
GA-310, DesMoines, lA50309-3(I|3
orsendus
ane-mailat askwood@mdp.com. Forimmedi-
atefeedback fromyourfellowwoodworkers,post
yourquestion 0noneofourwoodworking forums
atwww.woodonline.com.

www.woodonline.corn 39
at your S@FViCe

Help in a h
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WOOD' magazine-related guestions.
o Woodvvorking advice by callin-e8001346-9663. For article
available 24/,7 reprints,send$5 per article(no
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Limitedsuppliesof somebackissuesare Boone.lA 50037-0439. Pleaseenclose t t . ,G A - 3 1 0 D
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availableat woodstore.woodmall.com
or your address labelfrom a recentissue. rA 50309-3023.+

40 WOOD rnagazine October 2002

Morepowffir.
M3 ;""
l-{
l-l
l-{
C)
_c)
l- $
::

-t
-,

CircleNo. 1953
 &'p,*14
.*9j +.
1/t,
f;
'fl aised-paneldoors are a hallmark
K of quality cabinetsand furniture,
I Land thev're not difficult to make.
If you have a variable-speed,l Vz-hpor
bigger router and a router table,you need
only buy a setof threerouterbits designed
for the task.
The bits couldcostwell over$100.Still,
if you plan to make or remodel several
cabinets,or constructa specialpiece of
furniture featuringraised-paneldoors,we
42
think they're worth the investment.Of
course,you could chooseto cut raised
panelson the tablesawinstead,but we've
found that routerbits savelots of time and
add quality with their smoothcutting and
well-designed profiles.
We used a horizontalpanel-raisingbit
that cuts with the workpiecelying flat on
the routertable.You alsocanbuy vertical
router bits, which cost less and demand
less power. However, they don't allow
1::#-*-"a$/*1
you to raisea panelwith a curvededge,as
the horizontalcutterdoes.
In this article, we'll guide you through
the processof making a door for a typical
cabinet. The same techniquesapply to
building a door or panelfor a pieceof fur-
niture, or traditional wall panels.Along
the way, we'll point out a few detailsthat
have nothing to do with router bits, but
everything to do with getting the most
striking results.
WOOD rnagazine October2002
Two bits foi the door furrre
A set of door-makingrouterbits makesit easyto build professional-quality
cabinetdoors. One bit cuts the copedshapeat the ends of the rails; one cuts the
stickingshapeto match;and one cuts a raisedfield on the panel.
Ghoose a cool profile
We chosea rail, stile, and panel set from
Freud,item number97-102.You can buy
it from www.toolcrib.amazon.comfor
$144.99,and from other sourcesas well.
This set containsa coping bit to cut the
ends of the rails, a sticking bit to cut a
matching profile and panel-holding
grooveon the insideedgeof eachrail and
stile, and a3Vz"-diarneterbit that "raises"
the panel with a gently sweepingcove.
Select the best stock
A great door depends on great lumber.
You want wood that shrinls and swells as
little aspossible,andresistswarping.Rift-
sawn or quartersawnlumber fills the bill.
Go through the stack of boards at your
lumber supplier, and look at the end grain
on each one. Select the ones with grain
lines running straight from face to face,
not from edgeto edgeor in a semi-circle.
These prime boards also feature sraight
face grain, which played an important role
in our door, as you'll see.
You might find quite a bit of variation in
one wide board, as shown in Photo E. In
that case, elevate your work above the
ordinary by selecting the sfaight grain
lines for your doors. The cathedralgrain
won't go to waste;use it for less visible
cabinetpartsor otherprojects.
Here you see rift grain and flat grain within one 18" board. Plan to use the rift grain
for visible parts and the flat grain elsewhere
wrrw. rroo donline. corn
... iilrild a tlrird for the panel
The bits have V2" shanks, which we
sftongly recommendfor this operation.
See Photos A, B, and C for the shapes
made by our rail-and-stile cutters, and
how the results mate together. Photo D
showsone of the many panel-raisingbit
profiles available from Freud and other
manufacturers.Choose the one you like
best, or the one that matchesthe style of This large-diameter bit cuts the cove
your home's existingcabineflry. profilethat "raises"the panel.
Once you've found a good board,don't
just chop it into convenientlengths.Take
one more big step toward master crafts-
manship by cutting each individual piece
with the straightest grain possible, as
shownin Photo F.
Straight-grainrails and stiles seem to
flow naturally around a door. We recom-
mend snaight grain for ihe panels,too. It
lends an architectural-qdalitylook.
We usedred oak for this article because
it's a popularcabinetchoiceandits promi-
nent grain lines emphasizethe difference
in appearancebetween straight grain and
random "cathedral" gruin. Check out the
two versionsin Photo G. When you go to
a retail outlet to look at oak cabinets,you In a piece of cardboard, cut out a
"window" the same size as the part you
seelots of figure, and maybe you prefer it need to make. When you see the grain
that way. The choiceis yours. you want, mark the outline with chalk.
Two variations on red oak: The panel on
the left was made with well-matched
straight grain; the one on the right
offers a more common appearance.
43
raised-panel doors made easy
Plan and crrt carefrrlly I wercAl DtMENStoNS
We built an overlay door for a standard- accuracy before you cut the pieces to
sized wall cabinet,a common situation. length,becausethe rails mustbe perfectly nl't/attV -__111/2''
We planed 4/4 stock to 3A" for our rails squarefor good results.Preventchip-out
and stiles, and ripped them to 2Vq" in with an auxiliary fence on your miter
width, a dimensionthat looks good,feels gauge,or a sacrificialpiece of straight
solid, and allows enough room for any stock on the back fenceof your crosscut
styleof hinge.You might choosea width sled.Cut an extrarail and an extrastile to
anywherefrom 1V2"to 2V2". Pick stock usewhen settingbit heights.
that's perfectlyflat for the rails and stiles. To make the panel, chooseboardswith
The door itself should fall between9" compatiblecolor and figure, and plane
and 18" in width. Too narrow,and it just themto a thicknessof Vz".Onceyou fit the
won't look right.If you build it wider than panelinto place,its surfacewill sit flush
18", you're more likely to have trouble with the front of the frame. 28"
with twisting. The door must be absolute- Joint the edgesof the boards,then glue
ly flat to look goodwhenit's closed. and clamp them togetherto makea slighr
An overlaydoor is typically usedon cab- ly oversizeblank.After the glue dries,cut
inetswithout faceframes.Sizeeachdoor the panelto allow for a Ve"gap all around
to nearly cover the cabinetbox, and plan as it sits in the groovesof the rails and
for a Vs"gap betweenadjoiningdoors. stiles.This gapaccommodates the spacers
The sampledoor in Drawing1 will help describedin "No-rattlepanels,"page 47,
you keep track of the slots and copedrail bottom.If you choosenot to usespacers,
endsasyou figure the dimensionsof your you still mustleavethe samegapto allow
door. Check your crosscuttingsetup for for wood movement.
STILE

Align the pilot bearing and the fence before beginning to rout. For the rail-end cuts, set the height of the coping bit by eye.
This step ensures a smooth cut with no dips. Place the top of its slotting cutter just proud of the workpiece.

Rorrt the rail ends

With your router mounted in a table,
install the coping bit. It's the bit with a
pilot bearingsandwichedbetweenthe two
cutters. Hold a straightedgeagainst the
routertablefence,and slidethe fenceuntil
the straightedgecontactsthe pilot bearing,
as shownin PhotoH. Now makesurethe
fence sits at a right angle to the miter
gauge;butt a piece of scrap againstthe
fence at one end, clamp it to your miter
gauge,then slide the miter gauge along
the fence.The scrapshouldmaintaincon-
tact all along the lengthof the fence.
Use your testrail to setthe height of the
bit, as shown in Photo l. Placeyour test
rail face sidedown on the table.one edse
flat againstthe miter gaugeauxil-
iary fence and one end touching
the router-tablefence. Hold the
workpiecefirntly againstthe aux-
iliary fence and down on the
table,and rout the profile.
Checkthe test cut for a smooth.
consistent shoulder about t/t6"
thick on the face side of the rail.
The rabbet on the opposite side
will be aboutVe"deep.Run anoth-
er test, if necessary,ffid when
you're satisfied,make a set-up
piece to keep for future projects.
Keep the rail square to the router-tablefence with
Now, rout both endsof eachrail, your miter gauge and auxiliaryfence. The auxil-
as shownin PhotoJ. iary fence also prevents chip-out.

44 WOOD magazine October2002

Usethe copedend of a rail to set up the stickingcuts. Match
the slotting cutterto the tongue,and if the curvedprofiles
don't mate,re-shimthe bit.
Again, line up the pilot bearing of the sticking bit and the
router table fence to ensure accuracy.
Now, the inside edges
Remove the coping bit and install the
stickingbit (the one with the pilot bearing
on top) in your router. In one pass,this bit
makes the frame look better by rounding
over the edge next to the panel, while
I\llake your bits self-aligtitlg
Wouldn'tit be niceto keepyour
rail-and-stile profilecuttersperma-
nentlyalignedwithoneanother,
avoidingall thosetestcutsevery
timeyou usethem?Ourmaster
craftsman, ChuckHedlund, came
up witha wayto do just that..
Slipa t/2"stopcollarontothe
shankof eachbit, andtightenit in
placeagainstthe cutterbody,as
shownin the photoat right.Install
the firstbit intoyour router,and
proceedto findthe rightheight.
Unplugthe router,loosenthe set
screwon the collar,let it slidedown
to the collet,pnd retightenthe set
screw.Withoutchanging the router
www.woodonline.com
Make the long-grain cuts on all four frame pieces. Your fingers
are close to the bit, so be sure to keep your right hand at the
outside corner as you push.
simultaneously joint with your fingertips. You want a per-
cutting the groove fectly smoothjoint, becauseanything less
to receive the meansa lot of sandingafter assembly.So
panel. Use one of do as many testsas it takesto get it right,
the rails that you and then cut a set-uppiece for future ref-
just routed to set erence.Seethe ShopTip below for anoth-
the height. Match er way to saveyour settings.
the slot-cutterwith If you can't get a perfectfit wittr the rails
the tongue on the and stiles,you may haveto adjustthe bits
rail end, as shown themselves with very thin, washer-like,
in Photo K. Again, metal shims.Shims allow you to fine-tune
align the fence and the height of the profile cuttersor the loca-
pilot bearing with tion of the tongue on the rail-end bit. Our
a sftaightedge, as bits came pre-shimmedfrom the factory,
shownin Photo L. with exfta shims held under the nut at the
Place your exffa stile face side down end of each bit. Write down each step if
againstthe router tablefence, and make a you do any shimming, so you know the
testcut, asshownin PhotoM. Checkits fit original arrangement as well as each
with the already routed rail. Place both adjusffnentthat you make.When your test
piecesflat on your workbenchor tablesaw joints are right, rout the inside edgeof all
top, face sidesup, and check the resulting four frame pieces.
height,do the same with the second
cutter. The next time you use the
cutters, use a saved set-up profile
to set the router height for the first
cutter, and the second cutter will
match automatically.
Look for stop collars at your horne
center or hardwarestore, or buy a
seven-pieceset that includesone
Vz" collar from Woodcraft. Call
8001225-1153 to order item number
142562for $7.99.
For safety, Freud recommends
that you place at least 80 percent of
a routerbit's shank insidethe collet.
We achievedthat with collars that
are Vta"thick.
45
raised-panel doors
Tirne to raise tlre panel
For the final step in the milling process,
we useda panel-raisingbit that measures
3Vz" in diameter. The large diameter
meansthat it cuts more wood per revolu-
tion than the averagebit, its outer edge
travels faster than most, and it demands
extraclearancein the table and fence.
For safetyand efficiency,usea variable-
speedrouter with at least lV, hp.That's
enoughpower to do thejob, andrunningit
at a low speedmakesthe operationsafer.
Even if you havea split fencethat opens
wide enoughto accommodate the bit, it's
saferto shapea smalleropeningin an aux-
iliary fence.A wide gapcausesproblemsif
the workpieceslipsinto it.
To add an auxiliary wood fence, cut a
piece of straight wood to size, and mark
the shapeof the bit on it. Cut the opening
on the bandsaw,and smoothit with sand-
paper. Attach the auxiliary fence to the
existingfence,andcheckthe bit clearance.
Align the bearingand fence,and make a
testcut. asshownin PhotoN. If the router
bogs down, adjustthe fenceso that the bit
cuts lessthan the full width of the profile
made easy
tr
Panel
Routertable fface oide down).
auxiliary fence
with zero-
clgarance
opening
Rememberthat the test pieces for this cut must be the same thickness as the panel.
The tongue should fit snugly into the rail and stile grooves.
on the first pass.Then realign the bearing When you find the right fit, rout the pro-
and fence,and shapethe completeprofile file on the panel.Rout both endsfirst, then
in anotherpass. do the long sides;the long-graincutswill
Test the fit of the panel tongue in the shave off any minor chip-out from the
grooveof a rail or stile.It shouldslide in end-graincuts. Pressdownward on the
easily. If you have to force it into the workpiece as you rout, making sure that
groove,raisethe bit. If it rattlesinsidethe the shoulderaroundthe panel field main-
groove,lower the bit. tainsa consistentdepth.

ftlitlt rf
Ghrc your router a break as you raise a panel
Here'show readerRobertReed of RoamingShores,
Ohio,minimizesthe amountof wood removedby his
panel-raisingbit. Take a piece of scrapwood,and trace
the profileof your panel'raisingbit on it. Use a sliding
bevel gauge to find an angle that cuts away most of the
waste,withouttouchingthe desiredprofile.Set up your
tablesawwith the slidingbevel,and run each side and
end of the panelthroughas shown.Now you have much
less wood to rout.
Note that you'll set the rip fence away from the tilt of the
blade.You can add a tall fence to the rip fence to support
the workpiecewhileyou machineit on edge.

46 UIOOD magazine October 2002

Stain the panel
With the door parts milled,
you're ready to prepare for
assembly.You allowedfor wood
movementin the solid panel,dur-
ing the planning phase. Carry
through by installing spacers,as
describedin "No-rattle panels,"
below, and by stainingthe panel,
as in Photo O, if stain is part of
your finishing plan. Stain the
back first, then place it on a sup-
port while you stain the face.
By staining the panel before
assembly, you ensure that the
stain completely coatsthe tongue
of the panel. If you waited until
after assembly, areas of the
tongue might remain unstained,
and could become visible when
the panel shrinks in dry weather.
Don't stain the rails and stiles
just yet. If staingot onto the glu-
ing surfaces,it could preventthe
glue from adheringproperly.
After the stain on the panel
Whenyou cut the rail ends square,and,accu'
dries, insert the spacers, and lf you plan to stain your cabinetdoor, do the ratelymatchthe copedand stickedprofiles,
panelbeforeassembly.The cleartopcoat
apply yellow glue to all of the tan wait until after asiembly. assemblybecomesalmostautomatic.
surfaces that you milled on the
rail end. Use only a light coating near the sure acrossthe width of ttre door at each clamps, slightly angle them to pull the
inside edge to keep squeeze-outaway end,as shownin PhotoP.,Measurediago- frame into alignment, and retighten. Let
from the panel; even a weak bond there nally betrveenboth pairs of opposingcor- the glue dry before staining the frame..l
could causeproblems. ners, also shown in the photo, to make
with Charles l. Hedlund
Assemblethe door, and place it on two surethe door is square.-The two measure- Written by Jim Pollock
Photographs:Marty Baldwin
bar or pipe clamps,locatedto apply pres- ments should be equal. If not, loosen the lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine; Tim Cahill

No-rattle panels
Solid-woodpanelsmust have roomto move,
as they absob moisturein humidweather,
and loseit in dry times.But if you simply
leavea gap, you wind up with a door that rat-
tles and soundspoorlymade.You can use
variouskindsof plasticfoam to fill that gap,
but we like "SpaceBalls."Thesefirm
rubberspheres,about t/+"in diameter,do the
job quicklyand neatly.Woodcraftsellsa
packageof 100for $4.99;call8OOl225-1153
to order item number142284.Use two
SpaceBallson each side and each end of a
smalldoor,or threepersideon a biggerone.
They'llcompresswhenthe panelexpands,
and returnto full sizeas the panelshrinks,
holdingit tightlyin its groovesallthe while.

Pushthe SpaceBalls into the groovesas far as you can with your finger.
The panelwlll seatthem during assembly.

www.wood.magazine. corn 47
kid-friendry
Build them as bunks or twins.

F
#+-:
Y
{
{,
a"

These traditionally styled bunks kick off our

latest childrents bedroonr set.

48
 Don't miss the matching
dresser and desk.

&*$le
F

lmmediatelyfollowing this article

you'll find complete plans for a
dresser that shares the style and
straightforward construction meth-
ods used in the beds. Find complete
plans for the matching desk shown
above in the next issue.

hildrenwill enjoy sweetslumber Note: This bed design accommodatesa For the items needed to build this
for years to come with this ver- 39x75" twin mattress. You'll need to project, see the Cutting Diagram and
satile design. In this article, adjust bed dimensionsaccordinglyfor a Materials List on page 55.
you'll learn how to make a singlebed- dffirent-size mattress.If you make
to build bunk beds, just make two of other modifications,be sure to see the Il uc ASSEMBLTES
'l,/ta"
thesebeds, stack them one atop another article about designingsafe bunk beds 2a/a"inilially,ltim off edges after
with bed-joiningdowels,andaddthe lad- on page24. laminatinglor Zt/q"finishedwidth
der and guardrails as described.If the Trimto finished *t \
kids grow out of bunk bedsat somepoint, l-
simply slip out the unglueddowels and,
voild, you havea pair of twin beds.
4" notch
1glro"deep
Staril rlrlith the legs initially,
tA"-thick stock, cut six head-
I From 4" notch
1t/2"deep
I boardleg parts(A) to 23/sx42"andsix aftertrimming
1sl0"deep
footboard leg parts (B) to 2t/ex33".The initially,
legs are initially oversizedVa"rn width 1t/2"deep
aftertrimming
and2" in length.The edgesarejointed or
ripped and the endsare trimmed after the FOOTBOARD HEADBOARD
legs are laminated, where shown on LEG LEG.
Drawing1.
(A) 33"
)Cutthe notchesin two leg parts ( 3 1 "f i n i s h e d
Eand two leg parts (B), where length)
dimensioned,using a bandsaw or a 42', I 1e/ta"

tablesaw fitted with a 34" dado blade. (40"finished

length)
The notches form mortises in the fin-
ishedlaminatedlegs. T" notch
2To assemblethe legs,first referto the 1glro"
deep
tfShop Tip, page 50, bottom right. initially,
1t/2"deep 7" notch
Then, apply glue and assemblethe legs aftertrimming 1glre"deep
(A, B) in the configuration shown on initially,
Drawing1, keeping the ends and edges 1t/2"deep
flush. (We usedwhite glue, which has a aftertrimming
longer working time, to assemble the
legs.)Clamp the legs together,as shown 2e/a"-
in Photo A. Remove excessglue from (2tla"finished size) Trim bottomend
after laminating.
the edgesand inside the mortises.
--->J
I
+
23/a"
(2%"finishedsize)
wrvYr.woodonline.com 49
 #8 x 11/t'F.H. wood screw
5/se"
shank hole,countersunk \,
POSTCAP& LEGDETAIL
t/+"round-overs
t/a"chamfers,
both
3/qx2Ya"
notch.all corners /q" round-
/q" lound- -K--^- over
?
/z" groove
1/2"deep,
No-mortise centered
bedrail
fittings

No-mortise
t/e"chamfers, bedrail
'-.,-
both ends #8 x 11/+"
F.H. fitting
wood screw
81/2"

-!t-
21/+"-

z/ac"oilolholes' I l' tZ" round-overs

il lz" deep L'( 73" (Round-oversstop 1" from ends,
3" no round-overon bottominsideedge.)
I
I
t
No round-over
#8 x 7a"F.H.
wood screw @ exeloDED
vrEW
t/a"round-over No-mortisebedrailfittings
t/q"round-overs Vz"gloove \
r/2"deep,centered
t/e"chamfers,both ends #8 x 11/z'F.H.
wood screw
f Make the hole-drilling jig, shown on
rJDrawing 3. Using the jig and a
't/2" stopblock on your drill bit, as shown in
hole 2" deep, centered
onlywhenjoiningbunkbeds.)
(Forfootboard Photo B, drill /2" holes2" deep,centered
in the top of the legs, where shown on
t/ro" from two sides of Drawing2a, to receivethe post-capdow-
1ll loint or rip
'teach
leg, where shown, for a 2V4"- els (O). Also, drill a V+"hole 7/s"deepto
squarelamination.Then, trim the bottom receivethe post-capalignmentpin (N).
of each leg 7Vz" below the 7" mortise.
Now, cut the legs to the finished lengths Note: For bunk beds,position thejig on
by trimming the tops. Finally, rout V+" the bottom of the legs and drill I/2" holes
round-overson all edges,where shown 2" deepto receivethe bed-joiningdowels
on Drawing 2. (S), where shown on Drawing2.

I I

An easy way to keep face-glued

After laminating the legs, clamp them
together with the mortises up, making
sure that their top edges are flush.
parts aligrned
Face-gluedparts,such as the laminatedlegs in
this project,have a tendencyto slip out of posi-
tion when you clamp them. To preventthis, cut
the parts slightlyoversized(as you did for the
legs), and drive a couple of nails throughthe
waste area as you assemblethem. Keep the
nails away from the cutlineso you won't hit them
with your saw blade.

50 WOOD magazine October 2002

 Jrc
EHou-DRTLLTNG
s
13/q"
r/2" hole
rh" hole
. --. n - 7
I STOPS ll 4" I
!:-e-nq'---------.--------n
I
L- 20"
-1/2"
r I
groove
TOP RAIL 1/2"deep, centered
" chamfers.both ends
# 8 x s / t "F . H .
wood screw
z/oa"
pilot hole
/z" deep I
7sz"shank hole, I
countersunk llr'23/+' 7"

Nert up: the headboard
and footboard
I Cut the top rails (C) and bottom rails
I (D) for the headboardand footboard
to the size listed in the Materials List.
Then, cutaVz" groove Vz"deep,centered
in the rails, to receivethe footboardpanel
assemblies(E/G) and headboardpanel
assemblies (F/H), where shown on
Drawing 2. To easeinsertionof the rails
into the legs and provide room for glue
squeeze-out,rout %" chamfers on the
endsof the rails.whereshown.
Position the hole-drilling jig with the
handle opposite the mortised side of the
leg. Use the holes in the handle as
guides for drilling.
20"
RATLS
ANDFoorBoARD
@ nenoeoARD
Dl-uy out the arch on the top rails,
Awhere shown on Drawing 4. To do
this, first clamp two 3/qxlx2" stopblocks
to a rail. one at eachend of the intended
arch, with the stopblocks'bottoms posi-
tioned 4" from the bottom of the rail and
their inside edgespositioned2" from the
ends. Rip a %"-thick wood fairing strip
42" long. Placethe strip againstthe stop-
blocks. and flex it so its bottom is flush
with the top edgeof the rail at its center.
Mark the arch. Then, using a compass,
mark the3Vz"radiusat the top of the rail,
where dimensioned.
Q Bandsaw the top of the rail to
tl shape. Use a fence for the 2"
straight cuts into the ends of the rail to
ensurethe tenonsmake a good fit in the
legs. Sandthe cut edgessmooth.Then,
use this rail as a template to mark the
contour on the other top rail. Now, cut
and sandit to shape.
,/l Using the same processas for the
tf
top rails, lay out the arch on the
bottom rails, where shown. Cut and
sandto shape.
f Rout the /c" stopped round-overs
tf on the top and bottom rails, where
I
R= 551/2"
Round-over
BOTTOM RAIL
stops2"
fromeachend.
shown on Drawings 2 and 4. For an
easy way to do this, first refer to the
Shop Tip, below, to make a round-over
stopblockjig. Then, with the applicable
stopblock positioned on an end of a
rail, as shown, easethe /+" round-over
bit into an edge at the center of a rail
and rout to the stopblock.Repeaton the
opposite edge. Reposition the stop-
block at the other end of the rail and
repeat the process to complete the
round-overs.
f From /2" o*.plywood, cut the foot-
lJboard panels (E) and the headboard
panels(F) to size.From Vq"-thickoak,rip
four %xllVz" blanks for the footboard
edging (G) and four s/sx20%"blanks for
the headboardedging (H). Glue the edg-
ing to the panelswith a t/to" overhangon
each face. After the glue dries, trim the
edging flush to the panels.(For an easy
way to do this, make the flush-trimming
fence,shownon page 10.)
r]f Cut four spacers(I) and eight spacers
I tll to size. Mark the center of the
spacers(I) acrossthe grain on one of their
faces.Also, mark a centerlineacrossthe
grain on one face of eachrail. Now, glue

;(l

.Esimple jig for forming stopped

round-ouers
We made the handy jigs, shown ight,to form the
stoppedround-oversfor this project.To use one jig,
clamp it to the end of a board, as shown far right.
When routing,your bit's pilotbearingwillcontact
the jig, stoppingthe round-overat the desired
location.Note that the notch dimensionsdiffer
slightlyfrom those shownon Drawings2,4 and 7 Clamp the applicable round-over stopblock
for stoppingthe round-overs.This is to compensate with the notch tight against the end of the
for the ditferencebetweenthe pilotbearingand bit board. Make sure the clamp will not inter-
diametersand the curuedsudaceson pads C and D.. fere with the router.

51

Assemble the headboard and footboard with
37"-long spacers to ensure exact leg positioning
for bed alignment.
a spacerinto the grcove in eachtop and
bottom rail with the centerlines aligned,
and clamp.
Note: For bunk bed"s,make four addi-
tional spacers (I) and eight additional
spacers(J), and set asidefor assembling
the guardrails later-
How to cut post caps in 4 quick steps
Ghuck a't/2" round-over bit in your table-
mounted router. With your fence(s) flush
with the bit's pilot bearing, round over all
edges of the blank at both ends. Use a
backer board to prevent tear-out.
Without moving your router table fence,
refit your router with a t/+"round-over bit.
Now, with each cap vertical, round over
its corners, again using a backer board
for support and to prevent tear-out.
52
(lFrom scrap, make two
|lJ 37"-long spacers.Referring
to Drawing 2, dry-assemble
(no glue) the headboardmem-
bers (A, ClI, DlI, F/H, J) with
the spacers, as shown in
Photo C. After verifying the
fit of the assembly,glue and
clamp the members together,
checking for square.
Following the same process,
assemblethe footboard mem-
bers (B, Cll,Dll, E/G, J).
(lCut the cleats(K) to size.
r/Drill countersunkshank
holes in each cleat, where shown.
Position a cleat on the inside face of the
footboard and headboard bottom rails,
3" from the top and centered end to
end, where shown. Using the holes in
the cleats as guides, drill pilot holes in
the rails; then screw the cleats in place.
Gut a 1" length from each end of the
blank to separatetwo post cap pieces.
Use a gauge block for consistent cuts.
Position the block behind the saw blade
so the cap cannot become pinched.
Using the same router table setup, place
each cap bottom face down on the table,
and rout a'r/q" tound-over on its bottom
edges. Repeat Steps 1-4 to shape addi-
tional caps.
Ilaslrion the post caps
From Vq"-thrckoak, cut the postcap
I
I bases(L) to size.To form the caps
(M), first laminate three t/q"-thrck
piecesto form a2%x2%x18" blankthe
same way you made the legs. Then,
form the capsfrom the blank as shown
in the sidebar,"How to cut post capsin
four quick steps," below left. Make a
few extra cap blanks in case any get
damagedduring machining.
!) Sand the edgesof the caps and the
Et transitions from the V4" to t/2"
round-overssmooth. Then, glue and
clamp a base(L), centered,on the bot-
tom of eachcap,
jig
QClamp a cap in the hole-drilling
tfwith the base against the jig handle.
Drill t/+"and %" holes %" deepin the cap
to receive an alignment pin (N) and acap
dowel (O), where shown on Drawing 2a.
Repeatfor all caps.
illFrom oak dowels,cut the Vq"-diame-
tfter
alignmentpins and Vz"-diameter
cap dowels to the lengthslisted. Glue a
pin in eachcap, using a vise or clamp to
squeezethe pin into the hole. Then, glue
a cap dowel in eachcap.
Add the bedrails and
rnattress platforrn
I Cut the bedrails(P) to size.Using a
I stopblockwith a 1"-long notch,rout
/+" stoppedround-overson all edgesof
the bedrailsexceptfor the bottom inside
edge,whereshownon Drawing 2.
(Q) to size.Rout a /+"
)Cut the cleats
Etround-over on thebottominsideedge
of the cleats,whereshown.Drill counter-
sunk shank holes in the cleats for the
mountingscrews,whereshown.Position
a cleat on the inside face of a bedrail (P)
with the bottom edgesflush and centered
end to end.Using the holesin the cleatas
guides,drill pilot holesin thebedrail,and
drive in the screws.Assemblethe other
cleatand bedrail.
QPosition the bedrail fittings on the
tJbedrails and less.wheredimensioned
on Drawing S. Ceitering on the holesin
thefittings,drill pilot holesin thebedrails
andlegsto thedepthsshown,anddrive in
the mountingscrews.
A On a flat surface, assemble the
ttbedrails
to the headboardand foot-
board by engagingthe bedrail fittings.
Now, cut the mattressplatform (R) to
size, and lightly sand all edges.Cut a
3Ax2t/+"notch in eachcornerof the plat-
form, where shownon Drawing 2. Drill
WOOD magazine October 2002
 -l
z%+"pilot hole 7o+"pilothole
Ta" deep 1t/z"deep Trim 1" off wholetop
end afterlaminating.
No-moftise
bedrailfittings 173/4' I
(163/a" finished size)

143/a'
r/- Hfu
It**In ( 1 3 s / af"i n i s h e d s i z e )
--- "<-1ffi"
:ffi
T <-*1
/t
//
2tla"notches
1sl0"deep
#8 x 7s"F.H. # 8 x 1 1 / z " F . H . initially,11/2"deeq
wood screw wood screw aftertrimming
,
trim
2Te"initially,
Smallend of LEG
slot down E cunnDRAtL 1Aa"otl edges after
laminatingfor 2t/a"
finishedwidth
FtrlNGS
E eeonAL Trim 3/q"off bottomend after laminating.

countersunkshankholesin the plat- t/a"round-overs

fbrm, whereshown;then positionit t/q"round-overs
on the cleats.Using the holesin the
platform as guides,drill pilot holes
in the cleatsto the depthshown,and
drive in the screws.(You'll needto
1/z"groove
slightly angleyour drill to clear the t/2" deep,
bedrailwhen drilling the holes.) centered

For brrnk beds, tnaLe

dornrcls anrd guardmils
I From %"-diameteroak dowel,
I cut thebed-joinin-e dowels(S) to
%" round-over
the lengthlisted.Sanda light cham-
fer on both endsof the dowelsto ease 1/2"groove
tZ" round-over
insertioninto the legs. 1/2"deep, centered
j)From %"-thick stock.cut eight /e" chamfers, LONG GUARDRAIL
both ends (lnsideface shown)
A2Yxxl7.7+"blanksfor theguardrail
outsidelegs (T) and four 2t/sxl4t/+" Round-over stops
2t/2" trom each end.
blanksfor the insidelegs(U).
21/2"*- ..,
7 s e "s h a n k h o l e ,
QCut t he not c h e si n th e i n s i d e countersunk
t/a"round-overs
--r'r I fZ1/e" Cnamlers,
tJles s . wher e d i me n s i o n e do n >1 1 both ends
Round-overstoos
orawing 6. Now, apply glue and 2t/2"from each end.
# 8 x 1 1 / aF". H .
assemblethe legs(T, U) in the con- wood screw
figurationshown,keepingthe ends (mountedintobedrail@)
andedgesflush. As explainedin the
Shop Tip on prge 50, nail only 1/2"groove t/2" deep,
throughthe wasteat the top end as centered
you assemblethe legs. Clamp the t/+"round-overs
legs together,as in Photo A. When
the glue is dry, joint or rip %0" of
materialoff two edgesof each leg
for a 2t/+"-squarelamination, and
cut the I " of wasteoff the top. On
the outside leg (T) of each le-e
assemblythat will go inside the
bed, trim 3A" off the bottom,where #B x 11/q'F.H.
t/z" groove
wood screw
shown, to clear the mattressplat- (mountedintobedrail@) t/2"deep,centered
form. Rout /+" round-overson the t/e"chamfers,
edgesof the legs, where shown on
Drawing7. Then,drill countersunk
!F= both ends SHORTGUARDRAIL
(Usedwith ladder,outsidefaceshown)

shankholesin the lower face of the

shortened outside legs (T) for 7sz"shankhole,countersunk t/a"round-over
attachingthe legs to the bedrails.

wrrwv.woodonline.com 53
 llCut the long rails (V) and the short
'trails
(W) to size. Cut a Vz" groove
Vz"deep,centeredin the rails, to receive
the long and short panels(X, Y), where
shown. Now. rout %" chamferson the
endsof the rails, where shown.Using a
stopblock with a 2Vz"-longnotch, rout
the V4" stopped round-overs on the
edgesof the rails, where shown.
t/2" oak plywood, cut the long
fFrom
tJpanels (X) andthe shortpanels(Y) to
size. From Vq"-thick oak, rip eight
s/tx6Vc"blanks for the edging (Z). Glue
the edging to the endsof the panelswith
a t/rc"overhangon eachface; then flush-
trim the edging.
(I,
ftUsing the spacers J) that you set
lf asideearlier, glue and assemblethe
rails, panels, and legs to complete the
long and short guardrails. Assemble
these as you did the headboard and
footboard,using a 68V+"-long spacerfor
the long guardrail and a 53V+"-long
spacerfor the short guardrail to set the
leg spacings.
To reach the upper
brrnk, rnaLe a ladder
I Cut the ladder sides (AA) to size;
guides, drill pilot holes in the stepsto
the depth shown. Now, glue and screw
the stepsin place.
f From a scrappiece that matchesthe
tJcolor and srain of the side mem-
bers, cut sixteeln3/s"-diameterplugs r/+"
long using a plug cutter.Glue the plugs
into the counterbores in the sides,
aligning the grain of the plugs with the
laddersides;then sandflush.
fiCut the spacer (CC) and catch
ll| (DD) to size. Referring to
Drawings8 and 8a, position the spacer
on the back of the side members with
the top edges flush. Drill pilot and
countersunk shank holes through the
spacer and into the sides, where
shown.Then, glue and screwthe spac-
er in place.Now, position the catch on
the spacer with the top edges flush.
Drill holes,where shown,and glue and
E uoorn Round-overstopped
7+"from ends
Tse"shank hole,
countersunkon
back face
LF,u"
I
No round-over
screw the catch to the spacer.Rout /a"
round-overson the edgesof the spacer
and catch,where shown.
Finishing and
final assernlely
I Remove the mattress platform and
I bedrails. Finish-sand all parts, and
removethe dust.
D Appty a stain. (We used ZAR
El Provincial stain.) Then, apply two
coatsof a clear finish, sandingbetween
coats to 320-grit. (We brushed on
polyurethane.) With the finish dry,
reassemblethe bed, and add a mattress.
Setting up burrlr beds
I Assemble the lower bed using
I both headboard assemblies.and
assemble the upper bed using both
footboardassemblies.
#8 x 114'F.H.
wood screw
|.'--15
J
5"

I then crosscut the bottom ends to 7ee"shank hole,

form the 10' angle, where shown on /+" round-overs countersunkon
back face
Drawing8. On eachsidepiece,mark the # 8 x 1 Y 2F
' .H.
dado locations for the steps, where wood screw
shown. Referring to Drawing 8a, mark
the 2Vs"radius at the top of each piece
and the 10o angle on the back edge. 7+"dadoes
Note that the sidesare mirror imagesof t/+" deep
eachother.
t)Using your tablesawfitted with a
Erdado blade and a long auxiliary 7e"counterbore
7ea"pilothole g/0"deep with a
extensionattachedto your miter gauge, 1slo"deep 7sz"shank hole
ctt3/c" dadoesV+"deepat a l0o anglein 10'bevels centeredinside
eachsidepiece,where marked.Bandsaw
the radiusand angledback on eachpiece, #8 x 11/z'F.H.wood screw
and sandsmooth.Now, rout a Vc"round-
over on all edgesof the sidesexcept for (,,. 7a"PfugtA" long
the angledback. ;{/
QVart screw-holecenterpointson the
tJoutside face of the sides,1" in from
the outer edges and centered over the
dadoes.Now, drill a /a" countetbore3/rd"
deep with a 5Az" shank hole centered
inside at eachlocation.
zA"-thick stock, make four
lllFrom
a3rnxtq" blanks for the steps (BB). 113/a'
Bevel-ripthe front andback edgesof the
blanks at 10o,leaving a finished width
of 3tt/r0".Lightly sandthe edges.Then,
dry-clamp the sides and stepstogether.
Using the screw holes in the sides as
t/a"round-over
54 WOOD magazine October 2002
f Positiontheguardrails on thebedrails Qlnsert a bed-joiningdowel(S) in each
rmaterials list
Aof the upper bed with the shoft, tJof thelowerbed'slegs;then,with the
drilled leg memberon the inside.(You aid of a helper,positionthe otherbed on
Padsfor onetwin-sizebed
can mount the long and short guardrails top. Attach the ladderto the upper bed.
on either side of the bed to suit your Finally,addmattresses; thencall the kids
3/c' 40'
needs.Also, you can positionthe short and havethem try out the beds.JF A- headboard
legs tf4 UO

guardrailtoward either end of the bed, B-footboard

legs zf4 31" UO

dependingon where you want the lad- Written by Owen Duvall

Projectdesign:Kevin Boyle
der.)Usingthe holesin the legs(Tfu) as C toprails 3/q' 40" 0 2
Projectbuilder:Gharles l. Hedlund
guides,drill pilot holeson the insideface lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson D bottomrails 3/q' 40' 0 2
of the bedrails,and drive in the screws, Photographs:Mafi Baldwin E footboardpanels 1/z' 131/z'111/z'0P 2
shownon Drawing7. F headboard
oanels7a" 131/z'201/z'0P 2
G.footboardedging1/qu 1/z' 111/z' 0 4
edging t/+"
H-headboard 1/z' 20t/z' 0 4
bect crlttir*g dialgrmmr 11spacers 1/zu Vz' 04
Jt spacers 1/z' Vz' 4t/z' 0 8
K cleats 3/^', 3/q' 361/2' 0 2

L bases 15/s' 0 4
3/qx 71/+x 96" Oak M caps 1 " 21/q' 21/q' L0 4
.Plane or resawto the thicknesslistedin the Materia
pins
N alignment t/a"diam. 1s/a' 0D 4
@le 0 capdowels t/z"diam. 23/q' 0D 4

P bedrails vi 6" IJ 02
1/zx !8 x 48" Oak plywood l/a x 31/zx 48" Oak Q cleats 3/qu 3u 70' 02
platform3/t'
R mattress 381/z' 743/a' 0P 1
1/qx 36" Oak dowel
3/qx 31/zx 96" Oak Bunkbedpads

1/zx 36" Oak dowel @ S bed-

3/qx71/q x 96" joining
dowels 1/z"diam. 33/q' 0D 4
T-outside
legs 3/q, 21/q' 16s/q" 0 8

3/+x71/q x 96" Oak U-inside

legs 3/t, 21/q' 133/q" 0 4
V longrails 3/t' 21/q', 711/t', 0 2
W shortrails 3/q' 21/q', 561/c' 0 2

X longpanels l/zu 291/a' 61/4' 0P 2

Y shortoanels 1/z' 215/a" 61/q' 0P 2
@ Z- edging t t l l
f4
a t l l
f2 61/+' 0 8

AAsides yi' 31/e' 583/t' O 2

BB-steps 3/q, 311/rc" 14' O 4
CCspacer Ail
J
' Fil
IC \J

3/qx 48 x 96" Oak plywood DDcatch 3h' qn

J
1(n
tv
n
v

brrmle lred cu*firrg
1/zx 48 x 48" Oak plywood
-Partsinitially
cutoversize.Seetheinstructions,
diagramr make (l)and24
tForbunkbeds, a totalof 12spacers
spacers(J).Thisisenough forbothbedsandincludes
3/q X 51/z X fourspacers(l)andeightspacers (J)fortheguardrails.
MaterialsKey.O-oak, OP-oak plywood,
LO-laminated oak,OD-oak dowel.
3 / q x 5 1 / zx 9 6 " O a k
$upplies:#Bx%", #Bx3/q",
#8x11/r",
and#8x1t/2" flathead
wood screws; glue;
white % hardboard.
Slades andBrts:Dado blade,chamfer
bit,flush-
trimbit,t/" round-over
bit,%"round-over
bit,
% plugcutter.
3/qx 71/qx 96" Oak
Suying $uide
3 / + x 5 1 / zx 9 6 " O a k Na-mortise Setoffour(2setsneeded
fittings"
bedrail
forbunkbeds),
no.142496,$9.99(perset)plusship-
ping.
OrderfromWoodcraft, orgoto
call800/225-1153
l/q x 31/zx 24" Qak 1/zx 36" Oak dowel www.woodcraft.com.

www.woodonline.corn 55
 7 4 : 'p i l o t h o l e
1" d e e p
?l:."i3Y'
Forthe itemsneededto build - l-1 slor DETATL
l[ oesrroPFASTENER
thisproject,seethe Cutting
Diagramand MaterialsListon
+tl
-] -
page 63. -
21/4r- +)

Trim to finishedlengthafter
laminating and trimmingbottom.
Start rrlith the legs Ta" holes 21/c'
t/2", 5" notch1sl0"deepinitially,
I From/+"-thickstock,planedto 1t/q"deepaftertrimming
I cut eisht l1Ax50s/s" blanks for the 5"
outside l*s (A). From /+"-thick stock, J
cut four blanks of the same size for the
inside legs (B). All of the blanks are 1/2"groove
t/2"deep,centered
oversized t/s" in width and 2" in length.
The edges are jointed or ripped and the
ends are trimmed after the legs are lami-
nated, where shown on Drawing 1. 1'/ta"-
j)Cut the two notches in the inside
Alegs, where dimensioned, using a
bandsaw or a tablesaw fitted with a 7+" E sroePANEL
dado blade. The notches form mortises
in the finished laminated legs.
2fo assemblethe legs, first refer to the
tJShop Tip in the Bunk Beds project,
5gs7s"(49/8"
page 50, for an easy way to keep the leg
finished length)
pieces aligned during lamination. Then,
apply glue and assemblethe legs (A, B)
in the configuration shown on Drawing 1,
keeping the ends and edges flush. (We
used white glue, which has a longer 5" notch
1slro"
deepinitially,
working time, to assemble the legs.) 1t/a"deep
Clamp the four legs together, as shown aftertrimming
in Photo A in the Bunk Beds project,
page 50. Remove excess glue from the
edges and inside the moftises. 1 z l e "i n i t i a l l y ,
1f Jornt or rip /ro" from two sides of trim %0" off
edges after
Teach les. where shown. for a l7+"- 1/z"}roova laminating
square lami'nation. Then, trim the bottom t/z" deep, Rrl tor 13/q"
centered I finishedwidth.
of each leg 2" below the lower mortise. I
Now, trim the top of each leg to the fin-
ished length of 48s/s". Finally. rout /+"
round-overs on all edges except the top.
Trimbottomendafterlaminating.
Gornplete the side-panel 191/q'
l/'
parts, and assernJtle
I Cut thetop rails(C) andthebottom of the top rails (C) for the desktopfasten-
I rails (D) to the size listedin the t/a"chamfers ers, where dimensionedon Drawings1
Materials List. Then, cut a t/2" groove t/2" and 1a. Chisel out the cornersto allow
deep, centered in the rails. to receive the /+" round-overs
the top (R) to move.Then, at the center-
panel assemblies(E/F), where shown on points of the -7+"holes, drill the pilot
Drawing 1. To ease insertion of the rails l3/+" from the ends. Rip a t/s"-thick wood holesfor the mountingscrews.
into the legs and provide room for glue fairing strip 20" long. Place the fairing t/:" oak plywood, cut the pan-
tflllFrom(E)
squeeze-out, rout %" chamfers on the strip against the stopblocks, and flex it so efs to the size listed.From t/q"-
ends of the rails, where shown. that the center is lt/+" from the rail's bot- thick oak, rip four s/sx37sA"blanks for
Dl-oy out the arch on the bottom rails, tom. Mark the arch; then bandsaw and the edging (F). Glue the edging to the
A where shown. To do this, first clamp sand smooth. Using this rail as a tem- panelswith a t/ro"overhangon eachface.
two 3/+xlx2" stopblocks to a rail, one at plate, mark the arch on the other bottom After the glue dries,trim the edgingflush
each end of the intended arch, with the rail. Now, cut and sand it to shape. to the panels.(For an easyway to do this,
stopblocks' bottoms flush with the rail's QUsing a 3/r" Forstner bit, drill two make the flush-trimming fence, shown
bottom and their inside edges positioned tJholes /s" deep in the top edge of each onpage I0 .)

urwur.woodonline. com 59
 t/a"round-overs
|--l-re,'
/4" round-over

t/e"round-over 7sz"shankhole,countersunk
on bottomface

Desktoofastener
t,/q"leg reveal
/+" grooves
Te"deep
7ge"shankhole, 1/q"fromback edge
countersunkon
bottomface

'1
#8 x 1/q"F.H.
wooo screw

18" full-extension
slide

p exeloDED
vrEW 485/a

1/q" groove
Te" deep
1/q"Itom
II
% a "p i l o t h o l b
back edge
1t/q" deep 19,/o"
r
|
)

thxt/2X36"blank for the spacers(G);

f Cut a
tfthen cut them to size. Mark a centerline
acrossthe grain on one face of eachtop and bot-
tom rail. Mark a centerlinewith the grain on one
face of each panel at the top and bottom.
Assemblea bottom rail and a panel. and glue
spacersin the groove in the rail, as shown in
Photo A. Clamp the spacersto the rail, remove
With the panel and
the panel,and set the rail aside.Repeatto install rail centerlines
the spacersin the other rails. aligned,glue and
AAppty glue in the groovesin a top and bottom clamp spacers in
place,tight to the
lfrail and in the mortisesin two leg assemblies.
panel and flush with
Assemblethe rails, a panel,and the legs.Clamp
the ends and top sur-
the assembly, and check for square. Remove face of the rail.
excessglue,and setaside.Repeatto assemble the
other sidepanel.

60 WOOD magazine October 2002

Tirne for the
carcase
t/+" oak ply-
I From
I wood. cut the car-
case sides (H) and top
and bottom (I) to size.
j)From /+"-thick oak,
Acut four 7/ex45v8"
blanks for the side edg-
ing (J), and cut four
7/sx3l" blanks for the
top and bottom edging
(K). Glue edging (J) to
the sides,and glue edg-
ing (K) to the top and
bottom, and trim flush
when dry.
{f Cut aV+" groove3/s"
tJdeep and V4" from
the back edge in the
sides (H) and top and
bottom (I) to receive the Position the dividers in the carcase using lwo s/+xly2x8Vo Maskmatingglue-jointareasalongthe
back (L), where shown spacers. Clamp the carcase sides to snug the divider. Drill front and back edgesof the carcase
the holes and drive in the screws. sidesand on the insideof the side-panel
on Drawing2. Then, cut painters'tape.
legs with easy-release
the back and the dividers(M) to size. Make two spacers for positioning Then,applythe stain.
Afo help you assembleand square the the dividers (M) in the carcase,as
'lcarcase, Removethe spacers,set them on top of
see the Shop Tip, below. shownin PhotoB. Staningat the bottom
Apply glue in the groovesin the sides, of the carcase,position the first divider the divider, and install the next divider.
top, and bottom, and assemblethe car- on top of the spacers.Mark screw-hole Continue this process to install the
case with the back located in the centerpointson the outside face of the remaining dividers.
grooves. Drill pilot and countersunk side panels centeredover the divider, Qninistr-sand the carcaseand the side-
shank holes through the sides and into where dimensionedon Drawing2. Drill lJpanel assembliesto 220 grit, and
the top and bottom, where shown, and pilot and countersunkshankholes at the remove all dust. Mask mating l"-wide
drive in the screws. centerpoints, and drive in the screws. glue-joint areason the carcasesidesand
side-panellegs,whereshownin PhotoG.
Now, stain the inside of the side-panel
ili(l assemblies;the outside of the carcase
Squaring bnc?s-speed sidesand the back (L); the front edgesof
carcase assemDly the carcase;the dividers (M); and a 1"-
Here'san easyway to squarea wide area around the inside of the car-
carcaseduring assembly.Make case at the front edge. (We used ZAR
four of the squaringbraces,shown Provincialstain.)
on the drawing,fulow. Then,as
you assemblethe panels,position Twith the stain dry, remove the tape.
a braeein each corner,and clamp I Position the carcaseupside down on
it to the adjoiningpanelsto square your workbench, and apply glue to the
them,as shown in the photo, rghf. previously maskedareas.Now, mate the
side-panelassembliesto the carcasewith
the top edgesflush and a V+"leg reveal
at the front and back. Then, clamp
the assembly.

Make the drawers

3/+"-thickstockfor
I Edge-join enough
I the drawer sides (N) and fronts and
backs(O). Planeto Vz"thick; then cut the
v,':T*'"" r-I parts to size.
All
vT/r"
QCutaVq" dadoV+"deepand /+" from
2u
Erthe ends of the sides (N) on their
insidefaces,whereshownon Drawing3.
See Drawing 3a for the setup we used.

rvrvrv. wo o donline. corn 61

 /q" dado l+" deep tA" ttom back edge
t/+"groove t/q" deep 1/c"trom bottom edge

t/+" grooves 't/q"deep

rh" ttom bottom edge
E onnwen
I

I
8"
)

I (
\
+dge x11/2"machinescrew

#8 x 1" P.H.screw
18" full-extension
slide
rA" rabbel/+" deep
7gz"shank hole with mating 7/ac"pilol hole t/2" deep
7ge"holes

El onnwER
JorNT @ onnwERJorNT
1tl+"-diam.
knob DADODETAIL RABBET
DETAIL

Auxiliary
fence
Using the setup shown on Drawing 3b, spacer to your

ffi
cut a Vq"rabbet /+" deepalong the ends measured
of the fronts and backs (O) on their out- lengthplus %0". Inside
side faces.Finally, cut a V+" groove /+" Also. make two face
deepand V+"from the bottom edgeof the lx2" spacers t,
sidesand the fronts and backsto receive %0" thick from O--:v;"'*=--;
the bottoms (P). Cut the bottoms to size. cardstock or
Now, glue, assemble, and clamp the
drawers,and check for square.
plasticlaminate,
and set one
ffil5#:""'."
)'o"ooffi.
insert blade
QPosition the fulI-extension slides on spacer aside.
tfthe drawer sides, where shown in Position a slide in the carcase,where Edge-join enough 3/+"-thick stock
Photo D, and attach with the supplied shown in Photo E. and drive in the for the drawer faces (Q). Then, cut
screws.Then, disconnectthe larger cabi- screws.(Note that the phdto showsinstal- the parts to size. Apply double-faced
net-memberpart of the slides from the lation of a slide near the.bottomwith the tape to the drawer fronts (O). Center
drawer member. wood spacer trimmed accordingly.) each face in a carcase opening, and
,llllnstall the cabinet-memberpart of Repeatto install a slide on the opposite
Ethe slides in the carcase, working side. Then, repeatthe process,trimming
from top to bottom. To do this, first mea- the spacer as necessaryto install the
sure from the top surfaceof the carcase remaining slides except for the bottom
bottom (I) to the top of the upper divider pair. For these,set them on the two r/re"-
(M). From 3/q"-thickscrap,cut a 2"-wide thick spacers.Now, install the drawers.

Locate the cabinet-member part of a slide

sh" back from the front of the carcase
Place a slide on a drawer side flush with the bottom and front edges. You'll need to while supported on the wood spacer at
open the slide a little to drive in the screws. the rear and %e"-thickspacer at the front.

62 WOOD magazine October 2002

press it onto the taped
front. Now, carefully pull
out a drawer and clamp the
face and front. Drill holes Planeor resawto the thickness
listedin the MaterialsList.
from inside the drawer,
whereshownon Drawing3,
and drive the screws into
the face. Then, drill two A o
3/ax 51/zx 96" Oak
holes for the knob screws,
where shown. Repeat for
l/qx 48 x 96" Oak plywood
the remainingdrawers.
Note: Wefound it easiestto
stoin the drawer faces (Q)
beforeinstallingthem.

To1l it off
3/4"-
I Edge-join enough
I thick stock for the top
(R), and cut to size.Rout a
/+" round-over on the top
edgesand a %" round-over
on the bottom edges,where
shownon Drawing2.
(S)
)Cut the crest to size.
A Mark the arch on the
crest, where shown. (Use
the techniquethat you used
to mark the arch in the bottom rails, l)Finally, apply two coats of a clear
except you'll need a 4O"-longfairing Cr finish on all stainedareas,sanding
strip.) Using a compass,mark the curve between coats. (We brushed on t/qx48x48" plywood
in the centerof the crest,where dimen- polyurethane.)Then, install the drawer
Written by Owen Duvall
sioned.Bandsawthe top of the crest to knobs with 1t/2"machinescrews.I Prolectdesign: Kevin Boyle
shape,and sand to remove saw marks. Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
lllustrations:
Now, rovt Vq"round-oversalong the top Photographs:Marty Baldwin
edgesandends,whereshown. rraaterials tist
Q Positionthe crest on the top, where
tJshown. Drill pilot and countersunk
shank holes through the top into the legs
A-outside 1/2' 13/q' 48Ve' 0 R- top Tq' 22Vq'38' E0
crest,and drive in the screws. legs
B"inside Vqu 13/q' 485/a' 0 S crest Vt' 3u 36' 0
Note: Wefound it easiestto stain the top 3/q' -Parlsinitially
cutoversize.Seetheinstructions.
C toprails 5u 191/a' 0
assembly(MS) beforeinstallingit. D bottomrails Vq' 5" 191/q' 0 MaterialsKey Goak,OP-oak plywood,
Screw the large end of the desktop E panels 1/zu 101/t' 37s/s' 0P EO-edge-joined oak,
'f/ 2
fastenersto the top rails (C) with F-edging 1/q, 1/z' 375/e' 0 $upplies: #8x7e",#8x1", #8x1t/2",
#8x1t/n", and#8x2"
#8x1" flatheadwood screws.Centerthe flatheadwoodscrews; #8x1"panhead screws;white
G-spacers 1/2, 1/2, 41/q' 0 glue;easy-release painters'
tape.
top assembly(R/S) on the dresser,and
drive the #8x%" flathead wood screws Blades andBits:Dado chamfer
blade, bit,%"Forstner
bit,flush-trim bit,t/a"round-over
bit,t/+"round-over bit'
through the small end of the fasteners H sides Vq' 191/q' 451/a' 0P 2
into the bottom sideof the top. From the Brrying Grricle
I topandbottom Vru 191/q"31' 0P 2
Desktop
Hardurare. no.KV1547
fasteners, (4);
bottom of the carcasetop (I), drill a pilot t/+u 3/t'
J- sideedging 45YB' O solidbrassknobs
1tlc"-diam. withsatinchromefinish,
and countersunkshank hole, where no.A01950 G10(10)with #8'32x1t/z"
machine screws;
K-topandbottom
shown, and drive the #8x1Vc" flathead e0glng 1/+' 3/cu 31', 0 no.KV8400
slides,
18"full-extension BIB(5pr.)with
wood screwthroughthe carcasetop and 1 screws.Orderkitno,K|T1002,
$76.95 ppd.,from
L back Vqu 313/q'44Ve' OP
into the top assembly. Woodworke/s Hardware. Call800/383-0130orgoto
M dividers 3/+u 11/z' 31' 0 www.wwhardware.com.
Final torrches
I Finish-sand any partsnot previously N-sides 1/2u 8u 19" E 0 10
I sandedto 220 grit. Removeall dust. O-frontsandbacks l/zn B" 29t/z' E0 10
Then, apply stain to theseparts and to P bottoms 1/qu 171/2,291/2',0P 5
the unfinished surfaces of the side- 3/qu 8' 307/s' E0 5
Q-faces
panelassemblies.

wunn woodonline.com 63
 TT,?ffH:::gWF*
ffi
We packed all these tools and bits-135 pieces total-into
an instant-accessstorageunit that takes up just 2x2' of
walt space.Think of how it will help orltardze your shop!
I
fuE'ec-
\ I Proiects Editor
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Spin the entire carouselto access ... and rotate each wing to access both
each of its six tool-holdingwings ... of its sides and the center column.
64 WOOD magazine October 200,
 E cnnousEL
BorroM
flroe AND
181/2" '"'i'""'\
Tsz"shank hole, # 8 x 1 1 / z 'F . H .

I
wood screw
a- 63/41+ 7gz"shankhole.countersunk
4s/a"_j on,topof @ and bottomof@
f

8r" , {

Ii\t"
i/
,( @,@ r
16"
z/ea"
pilot hole
1" deep
I
II l' 7/ac"
pilot hole, centered

N l Locatibnof parts@
_l I 147/a"

7ge"shank hole in
parts@and@, For the items needed
redrill 17%q"
hole to buildthis project,
in parl@ see the MaterialsList
and CuttingDiagram
on pages 66 and 67. t/q"hole
Ta"deep
his handy shop helper is the brainchild of readerJim centered
on part @
Maw of Kleinburg, Ontario. His ingenious design
earnedthe prize for "Best StorageSolutionor Organizer
for Power Tool Accessories" in our Great American #8x11/2"F.H.
Workshops Contest. (See issue 140, pages 72J7 for all the wood screw t/+" dowgl
winners and prizes.)We liked Jim's organizerso much that we z/a" long
obtainedthe designrights from him, then built one ourselvesso tA" llal washer
that we can presentthe planshere.

Start witlr the carorrsel

I To make the top (A) and bottom (B), stick together two
I t/zxl6xl8Vz" pieces of plywood with double-facedtape.
Mark the top one "A" and the bottom one "B." Referring to
Drawing 1, lay out the hexagonalshapeand location of the
7gz"shank hole,
holeson the top (A). Bandsawcloseto the line, then sandthe #8 x 1/2" F.H.--1i countersunkon
top and bottom to shape. wood screw bottomface
I
tDnl|r the six 7rz" holes around the perimeter and the four
As/tz" holes around the center through both parts.
Countersinkthe center holes on the top surfaceof part A and With the
the bottom surface of part B. Drill the 1" hole at the center. indexing
marks on
Make indexing marks acrossone edge of the joined parts for the top (A)
later reference.Separatethe parts.Enlarge the perimeterholes and bottom
in the bottom (B) to t7764". (B) facing
upward, use
QCut the core sides (C) to the size given on the Materials spacers to
fJList. Glue and clamp the core togetherin the configuration position the
shown on Drawing 2. Make sure the ends are flush. Drill pilot core parallel
and countersunkshank holes where shown, and drive in the to two sides.
screws.Removethe clamps. Measure in
position the core betweenthe top (A) and bottom (B), from the
'fAfo points,
cut two thx\VzxI3Vz" spacers.Make the spacersfrom centering
poplar. [You can rip them later to 5" wide for the brackets(G).] the core.
Clamp the core betweenthe top and bottom, positioning it as
shownin PhotoA. Using the countersunkshankholesin the top
and bottom as guides,drill pilot holes into the endsof the core,
and drive in the screws.

rvrvrv.woodonline. com 65
 #8x3/+"F.H.woodscrew--\
f
7sz"shankhole,countersunk

Attach an auxiliary
extension to your 1" dowel
miter gauge,clamp 17s/+"long
on a stopblock, and
cut the notches in
the back (F), making
several passes.

E explooeo
t/
1 "h o l e
Add rotating panels
I From V+"temperedhardboard,cut the six panels(D) to
I the sizelisted. z/o+"pilot hole 1 "h o l e
)Cut the panel cleats(E) to the size listed.Mark, bandsaw t/2" deee
Eand sand the t/2" radli on their ends, where shown on
Drawing2. For the six uppercleats,dnll1kq"holes,centeredon
the length and the Vz" thickness,where shown. For the six 7/6a"
lower cleats,drill centeredVq"holest/s" deep.Cut six t/q"dow- pilothole
els1,/s"
long and glue them in the holesin the lower cleats. 11/q" t/+"lag scr€
and clamp the cleats(E) panels (D), deep 3t/2"long
QGlue to the where
9shown. Setthe panelsaside.

Make the wall bracket

Laminate two %x5Vqx22%" boardsfor the back (F). With lq" llal
I washer
I the glue dry. joint one edgeand rip and crosscutit to size.
Install a 3/q"dadoblade in your tablesaw,and form the notch-
es for the brackets(G), where dimensionedon Drawing3, as
shownin PhotoB.
t

I Retrievethe boardsused earlier for spacers,and cut the I

--*+
Cr brackets(G) to the sizelisted.Mark the angledcuts,where 1 "h o l e
dimensioned on Drawing3. Bandsawand sandto the lines. g/n"
21/2"

QCut the lower arm (H) and upperarm (I) to size.Using a 1" hole t/2" deep
lJForstner bit, drill the 1" hole Vz"deepin the lower arm, and
the 1" hole in the upperarm,whereshownon Drawing3. The #8x11/z"F.H.
holesare centeredon the widths of partsH and L wood screw
and clamp the brackets(G) to the back (F). Drill pilot
'l/lGtue
and countersunkshank holes, and drive in the screws. / 1 1/2"

Removethe clamps.In similar fashion,glue,clamp,and screw t/{t" pilot]"rfre

( |-}
in placethe lower arm (H) and upperarm (I). s/q',deep "- z/aq"pilol hole 7a" deep
I s/sz"
#8 x 11/z'F.H.wood screw shank hole,
countersunk
Finish and tnount
the carorrsel crrtting diagrarrr
I Sand all the parts to 220 gnt, easing
I the edgeswith a sandingblock. Apply
the finish of your choice.We brushedon
two coats of satin polyurethane,sanding
lightly with 220-erit sandpaperbetween
coats.You can also prime and paint to
matchexistingcabinetry.
)Cut two t/+x3Vcx3t/q"hardboard t/2x24 x 48" Birchplywood 1/qx 24 x 48" Hardboard
A blanksfor the washers(J). Mark their
centers, and draw 3"-diameter circles.
Drill centered1" holes,and bandsawthe
washersto shape. 3 / + x 5 1 / zx 9 6 " P o p l a r

QCut the cover plate (K) to size.Drill

tfcountersunk shank holes at the four @ @ @ @ @
corners,where shownon Drawing3. 3/+x 51/zx 96" Poplar

66 WOOD magazine October 2002

 the finish dry, drill /+" holes
'f/lwitn
throueh the wall-bracket back G). Adding your tools arrd bits
Transferih"r" locationsto the wall at a TOOLMOUNTINGOPTIONS
stud location. Drill pilot holes into the
stud. Now fasten the wall bracket with
V+"lag screws3Vz"long.
"
f Cut a l1t/q"-longpieceof I dowel.
rJPlace the carouselbetweenthe upper
and lower arrns.Slide the washers(J) in 1/+"nut
placebetweenthe carouselandthe arms.
#8-32x 1t/2"
Drop the dowel in from the top, seating machinescrew
it in thehole in the lower arm (H). Center
the cover plate (K) over the upperarm's
dowelhole.Usingthe shankholesin the 1/q" nul
cover plate as guides, drill pilot holes, Arrange the bits or tools you wish to
and drive in the screws. store in the carousel on the panels.
Holedrilledfor Leave enough clearance between
fiAnange your tools on the panelsand tool or bit. items to allow for easy handling.
lJmake the holders.For the mounting
methodswe used,seethe sidebar,right.
l'itWith the holdersnow attachedto the
I panels,slip washersover the bottom
cleats' /+" dowels, and tip the panels
into place, seating the bottom cleat
dowels in the holes in the carousel's
bottom (B). Slide a #8 flat washer
betweenthe top cleat and the carousel
top (A), where shown on Drawing 2.
Securethe panelsto the top (A) with flat Ifo* many of the hundred-plus
washersand roundheadscrews.Attach Ilsmall items that clog the drawers
the tools and bits. in your shop can you fit onto your
Writtenby Jan Svec with Charles l. Hedlund carousel?To plan the arrangementof After fastening spring-clip tool holders
to the panel with machine screws and
Projectdesign:Jim Maw; Kevin Boyle your tools and bits, place the panels nuts, snap the tools in place.
lllustrations:
Roxanne LeMoine;Lorna Johnson (D/E) on your workbench,and position
Photographs:Mafi Baldwin
the items, as shown in Photo C. You
can store items on both sides of each
panel,and alsoon the'core.
Note: For the panels to rotate, there
A top 1/zu 16' 181/z' BP must be clearancebetweeneachpanel
B bottom ,/2 16' 181/z' BP and the core.No bit, tool, or tool hold-
C coresides Tq' 41/i' 15" er may protrude beyondan imaginary
D panels 1/t' 7Vq' 147/e' H 8"-diametercylinder, centeredon the
E panelcleats f2 3/q' 71/q' 12 panel. Items stored on the core must
F-back 11/z' 5" 221/q' LP not interferewith thepanels' rotation.
G brackets 3/"' 5u 131/z' P For tools that can hang from a peg or
H lowerarm U^t 5" 131/2' P
pegs,mark the locations,anddrill holes
through the panels. Insert machine To avoidhavingto makeintricate
I upper
arm 3/au 6il 1qil

screws,and thread on nuts, as shown holdersfor smallor odd-shapedparts,

J- washers t/4
3" diam, H
on Drawing4. mounta magnetictool holderwith a
K coverplate t/4
3u 3u machinescrewand nut.
-Partinitially For drill bits and other tools that fit
cutoversize.Seetheinstructions. in round holes,measurethe bit or tool If someof your tools have their own
Materials Key:BP-birch plywood, P-poplar, center-to-centerdistances,and trans- small caseor holder,you may wish to
H-tempered hardboard, poplar.
LP-laminated
fer these dimensions to blocks of mount it to a panel. To permanently
Supplies: #8x%" flatheadwoodscrews (4),#8x1%flaf wood. Drill holes slightly larger than
(32),#8x2"flathead
attach the case, drill holes through it
headwoodscrews woodscrews
(3),#8x1t/q"roundheadwoodscrews(6), #8flatwashers the bit-shankor tool diameters.Clamp and the panel, and fastenwith machine
(12),Vi'flatwashers(2),1/t"
lagscrews3tl2"long(2),t/a' the holders to the panels. Drill pilot screwsand nuts. For removableattach-
dowel,1"dowel. and countersunkshankholes from the ment, adhere Velcro tape to the case
Blades andbits:Stack dadoset,1"Forstner bit. opposite side, and drive in screws, and panel.Other easymountingmeth-
Buying Grride where shown. (We didn't glue the ods areto usespringclips, as shownin
ToolHolders, Lookforspring-clip
toolholders
andmag- holdersin place,just in casewe ever Photo D, and magnetictoolholders,as
atyourlocalhardware
netictoolholders home
store, need to rearrangeour layout.) shownin Photo E. i
center,orwoodworkingspecialty
store.
rvrvrv. woo donl ine. c o m 67

With well-chosen
scrap, try a whole
new way to display
your favorite photos.
quick
slick
hese great-lookingphoto frames
are so easy to make, you'll be
turning them out for everyoneon
your gift list. We've designedframesto
fit single 5x7" photos, shown below rn
cherry, and the increasingly popular
4xlltA" panoramicphotos,shownabove
in bird's-eyemaple and wenge;but it's
easyto custom-builda frameof any size.
Cut the acrylic panes(C) to the dimen-
'1=Tre%-.,-,..h_.,
Note:ForinJbrmation
edging, and drilling acrylic sheet,
see the article on page 70.
sionsof your photo plus 2" in lengthand
width. Allow 1" betweenmultiplephotos
in the same frame. Then, make the cap
and base(A) 1t/2"longer than the width
of the panes.All the other dimensions
remainas shownon the MaterialsList.
Make a cap and a base
I Cut the caplbase'(A) to the size
I shownon the MaterialsList. Install a
chamfering bit in your table-mounted
router,and adjustit to cut a /s" chamfer.
Set the fence flush with the bit's pilot
bearing.Using your miter gauge fitted
with an auxiliary extensionto back the
cuts,rout the endchamfers.Thenremove
the miter gaugeand chamferthe edges.
&f stock to 3/e"thick for a blank for the
feet (B). Cut the feet to size. Glue and
clamp them to the base,where shown.
Sandthe edgesof the baseand feet flush.
Finish-sandthe cap and baseto 220 git.
QAcrylic sheetcomeswith a protective
9covering. Leavingit in place,cut two
piecesof 3/tz"-thick(.093") clear acrylic
Vta"larger in length and width than the
sizelistedfor the panes(C). Joint Vtz"off
all four edgesof both pieces.Use a sand-
ing block and 320-grit sandpaperto
removethe sharpedges.
illCut a t/+xIx|}t/2" blank for the
'tbrackets
(D). Make four copiesof the
':i
*,+si,:lMi.SC
on;;ffi
bracket full-size pattern on the WOOD
PATTERNSainsert. Adhere the patterns
side-by-side to the blank with spray
adhesive.Align all four bottom edges.
With your drill press,drill the r3lo+"
holes,
whereshownon the patterns.
fFirst testingyour cuts in a piece of
tJscrap the samethicknessasthebrack-
et blank, cut a 3/to"groove 3/+"deepcen-
tered in the blank, as shown in Photo A.
The two acrylic paneswith their protec-
tive covering in place should make a
snug fit in the groove.(The photograph
will compensatefor the thicknessof the
coveringwhen it is removed.)
QBandsaw the brackets(D) from the
lJblank, cutting close to the pattern
lines;then,sandto the lines.Removethe
patterns,and finish-sandto 220 gnt.
tr
To cut the centered groove, make two
passes over your regular blade, turning
the opposite face of the blank to the
fence on the second pass.
WOOD magazine October 2002
7a"chamfer

13le+"
hole clearacrylic
@
3/szx7x9"
clearacrylic

trAF{{}fiA,fvitL-
E;xe*tooeo tsfJ*-i*

s/e'F_E
. ll
t_-Li
1%"
#}-gzthreaded ,od
1"long
7e"chamfer 17.' l-r..-
#8-32capnut

Nour finish
and asserrrltle %o"groove ,/-l
lff;-rs,r: parts where necessary,
apply a clear finish. An aerosol
spray satin lacquer makes a good choice
7a"deep,centered.t_.619l

for light-coloredwoods,suchas mapleor

Centerthe bracketson the cap and base,
and set them in z/s"lrom the end bevels.
A strip of woodthatfits snuglyin the
brackets'groovekeepsthem aligned.
lf Glue and clamp the brackets to the
I cap and base, where shown on
Drawing 1. Use a strip of wood to keep
the bracketsaligned,asshownin PhotoB.
Wipe off any glue squeeze-outwith a
damp cloth.
crrtting diagmnr
ash.To enhancethe tone of darker woods,
such as cherry, walnut, or oak, use an
aerosolsatin polyurethane.Give the parts
three coats, lightly sanding with 320-grit
sandpaperbetweencoats.
I Fastenthe panestogetherface-to-face
Awith maskingtape,slidetheminto the
basebrackets,and put on the cap. Center
the panes,and align the cap'with the base.
Using a felrtipped marker,'markthe loca-
tions of the bracket holes on the panes.
Remove the panes, and drill /+" holes.
Remove any bun with a countersink.
QRemove the masking tape and the
tfprotective covering from the panes.
To createthe ftanslucentwhite surround,
place the back pane on a padded suface.
Sand it on both sides with your random-
orbit sanderand a 180-gritdisc.
Cutfour 1" lengthsof #8-32threaded
'f1f
rod, and threada nickel-platedcap nut
on one end of each piece. Wash and dry
the panes.Positionyourphoto(s)befiveen
the panes. Slide the sandwich into the
basebrackets,and add the cap. Insert the
threadedrods, and securethem with four
more capnuts.lF
Written by Jan Svec with Charles l. Hedlund
Projectdesign: Kevin Boyle
lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
Photographs:Marty Baldwin

A cap/base Vtu 2u |t/z' C

s/+x31/z
x 36" Cherry(5x7"frame)
*Planeor resawto the thicknesslistedin the MaterialsLlst. B*feet Va' 2' 2o
C-panes Vao 7u 9n

D*brackets
s/qx3y2x 36" Bird's-eye
maple(Panoramic
frame)
cap/base {tu

B*feet la' 2' 2n M 2

lc x 1 x 10tl2"Wenge(Panoramic
frame)
C'panes {v.o 6u 13Yt A
D*brackets lu 20
p",'r9"ri. -Parts
initially Seetheinstructions,
cutoversize,
MaterialsKey:C+herry,
A-acrylic
sheet,
M.bird's-eyemaple,
@ @ W-wenge.
5x7 5x7 p'r9"ri.
Supplies:Spray #8-32
adhesive, rod(4pieces
threaded 1"long
foreachframe),
#8-32 capnuts(8foreachframe).
nickle-plated
Vszx 12 x 24" Clearacrylic Vgzx16 x 20" Clearacrylic
Rouler
Bil:450chamfer,
69
*

*J lt's great stuff for jigs and

-. a projects, but you need the right
approach for the best results.

fllastic may not possessthe char- Tablesaw: An 80-tooth, triple-chip blade, wear a dust mask, and provide
p acter and beauty of wood, but blade does an excellent job of cutting good ventilation, becausethe dust irri-
- you'll never find a species of acrylic and polycarboriateon your table- tates the lungs. The coarse blades also
wood that's 100 percent waterproof; saw,as shown in Photo A. When you cut cut acrylic and polycarbonate,but leave
splinter-resistant;stable;a,nd,depending phenolic laminate, however, avoid fine a rougher edge and can chip the surface.
on the type of plastic, ftansparent.When particles by using a 40-tooth or coarser If you have to use a coarse blade on
you need some or all of those character-
istics for a jig or project, let this material
seeyou through.
Here we'll focus on threetypesof plas-
tic-acrylic, polycarbonate,and pheno-
lic laminate-and how to machine.
bond, and finish them. Acrylic is crystal-
clear and rigid; polycarbonatelooks like
acrylic, but offers much greater resis-
tanceto impact; and phenolic laminateis
opaque,has more strengththan the other
two, and won't melt as you machine it.
When you need plastic, choosethe best
type with the help of the chart at right.
Then adjust your cutting and shaping
operationsaccordingly.

Grrt witlr care

You can cut plastic with any of your
power saws, or shape it with a router.
Here are the keys to top results.

70
Any tablesaw blade will slice through plastic. However,a blade with many fine teeth,
such as this 80-tooth,triple-chip model, gives you a much smoother result.
those plastics, cut the workpiece over-
size and trim it on the jointer. Or, use a
straightrouter bit and router table; setthe
fencefor a t/r0"cut.
Bandsaw: Use a skip-toothblade,and
match the coarsenessto the thicknessof
the plastic.A bladewith 10-14 teethper
inch (tpi) works great with %" stock,
while Vq"mateial calls for only 6-8 tpi.
If the plastic melts as you cut, you need
a sharperblade or one with fewer teeth.
Scrollsaw: Melting can be a problem
here,becauseyou're always cutting with
the same portion of the blade, and the
friction heatsit rapidly. Scrollsawexpert
Rick Hutchesonrecommendsa speedof
1,000strokesper minute or slower, a #5
double-skip-tooth blade, and two or
three layers of masking tape or clear
packing tape to absorbheat.
Router: You can shape plastic parts
quickly with templates and a handheld
router, as shown in Photo B, where
we're using an old router table insert
plate to shapea new one. Use bushings
and straight bits or bits equipped with
pilot bearings. Carbide bits spinning at
high speedsgive the smoothestresults.
Flush-trim router bits work great with
plastic. Here we're shaping a router
table insert plate from phenolic laminate.
wrvw.woodonline.corn
Driil clean holes
Slightly modify any twist bits that you
want to use with plastic by carefully
reshapingthe cutting edgesat the tip of
the bit. Work both sidesof the bit equal-
ly on the sideof a fine grinding wheel, as
shown in Photo G, to form a vertical
scraping surface,as shown in Photo D.
Now the bit will bore without chipping
the edgesof the hole.
Lubricate the bit with a light oil, such
as WD-40, and run your drill at a low
speed.To drill a Vc" hole. for example,
usea speedof about 1,800rpm;for aVz"
hole, set the speed at 900 rpm. These
stepspreventheat build-up that can melt
the plastic.
Bond with solvent
Check at hardwarestores,home centers,
or specialized plastics outlets (look
under"Plastics" in the Yellow Pages)for
methelyne-chloridesolvent, labled as a
cement for acrylics. It bonds acrylic to
itself or polycarbonateto itself by dis-
solving a thin layer of plastic on the
adjoining surfaces. The plastic flows
togetherand hardensto make a joint.
Buff from the middle toward the lower
corner, then flip the piece and repeat. lf
you work the top corner, it could catch.
Plastic can shatter
or climb the bit
when you use a
standard twist bit.
Grind your bit to
turn it into a rotary
scraper, and you
can put clean holes
right near the edge
of a piece.
When joining an edge to a face, make
the edge smooth and sraight. As shown
in the photo opposite,rest one piece on
the other, with a backer board behind
each,and clamp in place. Keep the verti-
cal backer board separatedfrom the joint
line so it doesn't contactthe solvent.
Use a solvent applicator,like the long-
needled model shown, or a syringe to
place a small amountof solventall along
thejoint. It will flow betweenthe pieces,
dissolvingplasticas it goes.
You can handle the assembly after it
hashardenedfor severalminutes,but the
bond continuesto get strongerfor about
a week. We left a small tongue protrud-
ing, as you can see in the photo, then
shavedit off later with a bearing-piloted
flush-trim bit in a router table.
Srnooth and polislr
If you're making a quick jig for the shop,
the edges that you saw, joint, or rout
should be satisfactoryas they are. But if
you want a more finished look for a dis-
play piece, )ou easily can smooth and
even polish the edges.
Smoothit to a matte finish with a hand
scraper.To refine it further, use a sand-
ing block and fine, weVdry sandpaper,
starting with 320 grit and moving up
through finer grits until you're satisfied
with the appearance.For total clarity,
charge a buffing wheel with a tripoli
buffing compound, and polish the edge
as shownin Photo E. i
Photographs:Mafi Baldwin;
Hetherington Photography
71
 . t
ust likeclamps,you never
seemto haveenoughstor-
age.Andthiseasilybuilt
projectwillserueyourneedsin
spades.Useit for lumberstoragein
theshopor as a catchallin the
garageor basement.
Plus,using
1/2"plywoodand 2x4sfor its
you'llfindthis
construction,
projectveryaffordable.
72
Note: Our unit measures 99" long and
restson four castersfor mobility.Size
the unit to suit your needsand omit the
castersif mobilityis not a requirement.
I Cut the2x4, plywood,andperfor4t-
t ed hardboardpartsA,B,C,D,E,Fto
the sizeslistedin the MaterialsList.
DO" a flat surfacedrill countersunk
flmounting holes,andscrelvthe shelf
supports(A, B) togetherto form four
rectangular2x4 frames.Note that the
bottom frame uses four Bs and the
otherframesusejust two.
QGlue and screw the four
tJplywood shelves(C) to the
2x4frarnes. Check eachfor square.Sand
or rout slight round-overs to break the
sharp edges along the top edges of the
Vz" plywood shelves.
if Glue and screw the fouruprights @)
'fto
what will be the boftom shelf
assembly (A, B, C). Use a framing
square to ensure squarenessand plumb
of the uprights to the shelf assembly.
f Screw the bottom four vertical sup-
rJports (E) to the inside faces of the
uprights (D).
QPosition the next shelf assembly on
lJtop of the shelf supports,as shown in
Photo A.
lf Repeat Steps5 and 6 to secureall
I the supportsand shelf assemblies
WOOD rnagazlne October 2002
 #B x 11/2"F 'H' wood screw
l/-

'"r-L='-
1 / i I Note: Attach@to end supports@
with#12 x 1" panheadscrews.
"'r?---
tI 207/a"
OptionaltZ" perforated
185/e" hardboardfor hangingtools

.,,,1
"r-Lto
3v,>-
1
185/a"

,/r',,1= I
3'/r>,-
I

I
185/a"

a
I
'u.Lz
"rr(<
1 t/z'

I exeloDED
vrEW

1 / e z "p i l o t h o l e
# Bx 3 " F . H . 4" heavy-
wood screw duty swivel
lock caster
# B x 2 1 / 2 "F . H .
wood screw

to the uprights.Beforescrewingthe top

four supports(E) in place,makesurethe materials list
top of the top shelfsitsflushwith the top
ends of the upri-qhts(D). Trim the top
four verticalsupportsif necessary. A horiz.
front&
Cut the perforatedhardboard(F) to backsupports 1Vz' 31/z^ 96" C
fit betweentwo uprightsfor addi- B endsupports 11/2" 31/2', 207/a', c 10
tional storageon one or both endsof the C shelves 1/zu 237/a' 96' PL
unit.Add hooksfor hangin-E tools,acces- D uprights 11/z' 31/z' 717/a" C
sories,or supplies. 11/z' 31/z' 187s" C
E verlicalsupoorts tt

Lay the unit on its sideand attach4" F endpanel 1/t' 167/a',717/e', PH

heavy-dutyswivel-lockcastersto the
bottom if desired.Paint the completed lvlaterials
Key:C-choice ofpineorfir2x4,
PL-plywood,PH-perforatedhardboard.
projectif desired.dF
One level at a time, glue and screw the Supplies:%" lagscrews1%"long (16),4heavy-duty
2x4 verticalsupports into position,and Project design: Charles l. Hedlund casters
swivel-lock (a),#12x1"panhead #8x3"
screws,
add a shelf assembly.Continuethe Photographs: Baldwin Photography woodscrews,
flathead #8x21/z"flatheadwoodscrews,
process to the top of the project. lllustration: Roxanne LeMoine: Lorna Johnson #8x11/2"
flatheadwoodscrews.

nnwvnwoodonline.com 73
 Honrmuch machine can
you buy for $500to $900?
Quiteabit, according
to our tests.

tf
I
il

To test cutting power, we

mounted a stopwatch Io a
pushblock and timed a
12"-long cut in 6"-wide red oak.

# READERS'TOP 5
We surveyedwoodworkersat
www.woodonline.com to find out
what mattersmost in a bandsaw.
Theytold us:
l. Power
2. Resawing capacity
3. Blade-guide system
4. Blade-changing ease
S.Table adjustntents
We'll take a close look at each area
in thisarticle. s",f;
- dirh
 w'
he bandsawsin this test meet the
requirements of most home
woodworkers: Their throat (rip-
ping) capacitiesrange from I3V4" to
l6Vz"; all have enoughpower to handle
most resawingtasks;and all but one of
the models can be wired to a I l0- or
220-voltpower supply.
Our first testing step was to assemble
andalign the tools,accordingto the tune-
up proceduredescribedon page 80, and
make note of any problems out of the
box. Using new 3-teeth-per-inch(tpi)
Lenox carbon-steelbladesin each saw,
tensionedidentically, we resawed 6"-
wide red oak,pushingeachsawhard,but
not to the point of stalling.We averaged
the resultsof threetests,as describedat
left and shown in the Plowing Power
chartbelow.
Next, we resawedthe widest piece of ":4q@Gai_

red oak that would fit on eachsaw. (We

installedriser blocks on the three saws
that offer them as an option. See "What
you needto know aboutriser blocks" on The Laguna LTl4's heavy cast-iron wheels (left) act like flywheels to muscle the
page 76.) With somepatience,all of the blade through hard woods and difficult cuts faster than the typical cast-aluminum,
sawscouldresawtheir maximum. spoked wheels (right).
The top five bandsanlrl
brrying points
Power. The manufacturer-rated
PLOWING
POWER I
I horsepowerof the tested saws
Resawinghardwoodis a good - rangesfrom %hp to 2 hp, but those
measureof bandsawpower. ratings don't necessarilymatch up with
Usingthe resultsfrom the test true cutting power. For example, the
shown at left,this chart shows
LagunaLTl4 hasonly a r/z-hpadvantage
how much 6" red oak we could
resaw in one minutewith over the Jet JWBS-I4CS,but the LTl4
each machine*. cut morethantwice asfastin our 6" resaw
test.(Seethechartat left.)In additionto its
stout, 22}-volt-only motor, the momen-
Laguna LT14(95") tum of the LT14's massivecast-iron
wheels, shown above, carry the blade
throughtoughcutswithoutboggingdown.
Grizzly G10732(61" fll Resawing capacity. Two fac-
Delta28-293(60") 1/ tors contribute to a bandsaw's
H resawing capacity: the distance
(55")
Jet JWBS-16 between the table and the fully raised
blade guides, and power. Maximum
Ridgid 8S1400(48") resawing capacity for the tested saws
Shop Fox W1673(48") rangedfrom 6" to l2Va". (Seethe chart
on pages 78-79.)Even with riser-blocks
Jet JWBS-14CS(44" installed,we could resaw 12"-widered-
oak stock at an acceptablerate for home
woodworking (about 12" per minute). If
you work under production conditions
that require faster resaw speedsin wide
stock, you may need a more powerful
bandsawthan thosewe tested.
6 Blade-guide system. Guide
(, blockskeepthebladefrom twisting
*usingidentical
3tpi f, and defleciing left or right, and a
carbon-steel
blades thrust bearingbacksup the blade to keep

75
 FOURTYPESOFGUIDES
PROVIDE
VARYINGBLADE
SUPPORT
Laguna
ceramrc
guides

Round Jet
Euro-style
guides

Va"l3/e"
3/q"

1/2" Laguna'sceramic blade guides (lett photo) havetwo contact points that provide more effec-
tive support than solid blocks, but have less surfacearea so they run cooler. Disc-shaped
BladeWidth
Euro-styleguides (right photo) keep the blade on the straight and narrow on the Jet JWBS-16.

it from bendingback while you cut. (See
photo,below.)Both must be setprecisely
for optimal performance, and micro-
adjustmentknobs simplify the process.
We gave high marks to those saws that
havesuchadjusters.If the lower adjusters
underthe tablearelocatedin a tight spot,
we downgradedthe rating slightly.
As for the guideblocksthemselves,the
drawing and photo above, show how
Laguna's ceramic guide blocks contact
the blade at eight points-four on the
upper guide and four on the lower
guide-to provide excellent support
acrossall blade widths. The Jet JWBS-
16's Euro-style guides, shown above
right, are next best, excepton Vs"blades
where squareguidesmake bettercontact.
Graphite-impregnated guide blocks actu-
ally touch the blade when properly set,
but self-lubricateto keep the blade cool
and preventwear.
Blade-changing ease. Here,
we ratedall aspectsof bladechang-
ing: releasing the tension, and
removing, reinstalling,and retensioning
theblade.Noneof thesawsin
our testhaveknuckle-busting
tensioningknobs:all clearthe
top wheelhousingeasily.The
ShopFox W1673 hasa nifty
lever, shownon page 79, that
relaxesblade tension instantly. It's not
enoughto removethe blade,but it elimi-
nates much of the cranking required by
the othersaws.
We preferto useas few tools as possi-
ble when swappingblades,and the Jet
JWBS-14CSand Ridgid sawsrank high
here,requiringonly a Phillips screwdriv-
er. Someneedhexheadwrenchesand/or
open-endwrenchesto move, or remove,
guidesor guards.
- Table adjustments. All of the
\ tables on the tested saws pivot
ly smoothly on a pair of sturdy trun-
nions.All of them alsotilt 45" to the right
and at least10oto the left (a must-havefor
bandsawndovetails).However, only two
saws-the Gizzly andLaguna-let you tilt
thetableleft withoutresettingthe0o stop.

what lrou needto lmorr aboutriser blocks

To increasea bandsaw'sresawingcapacity,some manufacturers otfer
an optional"riser-blocK'-acast-ironblockthat you bolt intothe middle
of the saw'sframe.The extra4-S" can doublethe distancebetweenthe
tableand bladeguides,addingenoughcapacityto makebook-matched
22'- lo 26"-widepanels,or roughout a deepbowlblankfor turning.
A riser-blockkit typicallyincludesthe block,extendedbladeguards,
and a longerguidepost.The Jet and Ridgidkitswe testedalso include
a longer6-tpi,general-purpose blade.Installationtakes lessthan 30
minuteswitha helper.
lf you thinkyou'lleventuallywant a riserblockfor your saw, consider
buyinga kit whenyou buy the saw. (lt'll add $60-$90 to the price.)We
knowmanywoodworkerswho waited,and now havebandsawblades
too shortfor their riser-blockequippedsaws.

RISERBLOCK

A micro-adjustment knob, like this one on the Delta,

moves the thrust bearing forward or backward for pre-
cise positioning behind the blade. The lower knob con-
trols the location of the guide blocks.
REAR BTADE GUARD

76
nreet the bandsavvsin our test
Highpoints Highpoints
.j Vifiually
tiedassecond fastest-cutting t Viftually
tiedassecond fastest-cutting
bandsaw in thetest. bandsaw inthetest.
t Lowerbladeguides arecloseto underside o Thelargetabletiltsleftwithoutresetting
oftableforoutstanding supportandreduced 0" stop.
bladedeflection, t a good-quality
Priceincludes ripfence
f Micro-adjustment knobs forlowerblade andmitergauge.
guidesaccess easilyfromthefrontof
thetable. Lowpoints
O Toremove theripfence, youmust
Lowpoints disassembleoneendofthefrontfencerail.
$ GuiOepostcandropwhenloosened unless offthepulleys
i: fne thindrivebeltslipped
supported. twiceduringourtesting,
O Thumbscrewto adjust is smalland
tracking O Rubber feethelped dampen vibration,
butset
to use.
uncomfortable themachine swaying duringheavy
cuts.

Morepoints
\ need
Sfi,f,8lt'rtyou wrench
ahexhead to + At408pounds, it'sheavy!You'll
needa
(shown with optional secure guideblocks,thesetscrews provide friend(ortwo)to helpyoumount
strong the
riser-blockkit)
anunobstructed viewof blade. (Seephoto sawto its base,
at left.) + 0pen-stand (Gl073)
version sellsfor$625.
r) InlateJune,Deltaintroduced the28-241, ') Thismachine hasthreebladespeeds, but
anupdated versionofthe28-293wetested. wefoundnoadvantage to thelowerspeeds.
According they've
to a Deltaofficial, boosted
thepower hpandfixedtheguide-
lo 11/z
postproblem. Thenewmodel willsellfor .!

about$700,andalsocomes in anopen-
standversion (model 28-231) costing
$625, New bandsavvs
due in October
iust as this issuewentto press,
With no thumb- officialsfrom Delta and Grizzlytold us
screws for the of new mid-pricedbandsawsthey're
blade guides,the ' bringingto the market.Delta
Delta 28-293pro- . announceda new lineof Asian-made
vides a clear view
to the cut line. saws modeledafterthe USA-made
...t saws,describedal left,that also
includea quick-release bladetension-
er and a 4" dust-collectionport.The
open-stand,s/q-hp28-276sellsfor
Highpoints -hp
around$400;the closed-stand,1
C. Notoolsrequired forfrequentadjustments;
28-2OGruns about$600.
changingblades requiresonlya Phillips oor,1u
Meanwhile,Grizzlyintroducedtwo
to remove
screwdriver rearbladeguard (@
new mid-pricedsaws,the 14" G0555
and the 17" G0513(shownat right). : *-
Lowpoints I
the1-hpmotorstruggled
to Bothofferball-bearing bladeguides,
$ Whenresawing,
maintain speed
constant we backed
unless extrudedaluminumfences,and miter
offthefeedpressure. gaugesas standardequipment.Like
Delta'snew models,they too sport
Morepoints quick-releasebladetensionersand
$ TheJWBS-I40Sisidentical,
except it hasa 4" dust ports.
lt sellsfor$530,
motorandopenstand.
7+-hp The riser-block-ready,1-hpG0555
will sellfor $375,and the 2-hp,dual-
voltage,G0513will go for $750.
(shown with optional (Pricesdo not includeshipping
riser-block kit)
whereapplicable.)

rvurw.woodonline.com 77
 iI Highpoints Highpoints
m l_l f tts10"resawing isthelargest
capacity in t nt adjustmentknobsandscrews havea
Fl^ going
thetestwithout toa riser-block comfortable
soft-grip
coating.
t' e- equrppeomooer' t Up-frontscaleeasessetting
tableangle.
r
i1 *l ol*'.:1x;11;ru:i;.liiTffili''ascae anda goodvalue.
tested,
sawwe
t At$500,it'stheleast-expensive

j aJ Offers dustcollection,
excellent including
the
I
I the (0thers
test range Lowpoints
W il'illrlli:3'#:l O Wecouldn't pushthissawveryhardand
I L' Euro-style provide
bladeguides goodsupport getgoodresults.
lt tookseveral
cub before
, forblades
7+"orwider. wefoundtherightfeedpressureforthe
fastestresawing.
it
Lowpoints
O Upper bladeguides havemicro-adjustknobs, Morepoints
butlowerguides don't. ri lt comeswitha narrowsanding
beltand
$ Access to lowerblade-guide
assembly is platento turnyourbandsaw
intoa
rathertight, ',] stripsander.
O Wraparound bladeguardlimitsline-of-sight
to thebladeandcutline. (shown with optional
riser-block kit)

Morepoints
') Tension adjustment is easyto reach,
owing
to itslocation
belowthetopwheelhousing,
butwe needed twohandsto turnit because
ofthesizeoftheadjustment wheel.
ri Themodel wetested wasa pre-production CAPACITY
(rNcHES)
sample; Jetofficialsexpectthesawwillbe
availablelaterthisfall.

/=q
Highpoints

,ffi
/f/t,
/s
dtffi
f fne LT14cut50 percent fasterthanthenext
fastesttestedsaws. u
C fne largethroatplatehasleveling screws
<,
F
(similarto sometablesaws)
throatplateto thetabletop,
f labtetilts15' leftwithout
forflushing

having
the

to reset
9t FeY
-""-l
0' stop.
2,275
f Four-point ceramic bladeguides (seephoto 2,720
onpage76) olferexcellent support forall 3,625
blade widths.

Lowpoints
O Adjustingbladeguides requires
andbearings
threedifferent
sizesof hexhead
wrenches.
slowingbladechanges.

Morepoints
-) Themotorrequires 220-volt
electrical
service. NOTES:
* A high-qualityfencecomes withthissaw,
butremoving it requirespartial
disassembly 1. Dual-voltage machines pre-wired 4. (.) 0" tablestopmust
for 110voltsunlessotherwise noted. be resetto tilt tableleft.
of frontfencerail. * Comespre-wired for 220volts.
r) Afterwe madeanadapter fortheunusually 5. (c) Ceramic
2. Distancebetweenbladeandframe. (E) Euro-style
sizedporl(3y8"),thedustcollection (GP) Graphite-impregnated
effectiveness
wasexcel lent. 3. Distancebetweentableand plastic
bladeguard.
fully-raised (RS) Roundsteel
t lf you'rebuying a bandsaw forresawing,
(SS) Squaresteel
theLT14is byfarthebestofthebunch.

78 WOOD magazine October2002

 Ghoose the saw by
how yorrtll use it
Highpoints
In this price range you won't find a
f Tensionlever(shown at right)releases or
tension
blade
applies with a flickof thewrist. bandsawwith more cutting powerthan
Ripfenceand gauge
miter come standard. ttre Laguna LIl4, so it's our first
t
choicefor a resawingmachine.It does,
Lowpoints however,require 220-volt service.The
$ Motoris hardto mountto closedbase; Delta 28-293 isn't as powerful as the
anextrasetof hands to threadnutsonbolts Laguna, but it's more user-friendlY,
ishelpful. runs on 110 volts, and costs about
$ lt'stheonlytestedsawthatwon'taccepta
Shop Fox's tension $115 less. If those machines make
%" blade. your pocketbookpucker and you don't
lever rotates to adiust
blade tension, then plan to do a lot of resawing,Ridgid's
>i w* Morepoints flips up to relax the
8S1400 is an excellentvalue at $5ffi.
performer
f, A middle-of-the-pack fora tension for extended
,e
i premiumprice, blade life.
O TheShopFoxW1672is a downsized clone

\vz witha 1-hpmotor,

ofthismachine
and73/s"
capacity,
for$595.
14"rip
lt sells
resawcapacity.
Writtenby DaveCampbellwithJeff Hall
Photographs: MartyBaldwin lllustration: Tim Gahill

Talk about thesa tools tr our rpeciaf UnO""*s forum, o, noa

: speclficadon3 on other types of tools, fy clit+ittg on the
4 Thismachine hastwobladespeeds, butwe
to thelowerspeed. "!bol' GgrrlFf,imns",tab at www.woodmall.c6cr.
foundnoadvantage

ACCESSORIES
REPORTCARD(7)
PERFORMANCE (e)
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NOTES:

vacuumhose.
6. 21lq'portfits standard2112" e. (B) Mobilebase 10. (LIFE) Lifetime
warrantyagainst
(BG)Ball-bearing guides factorydefects.
jig
(c) Circle-cutting
z.lExcellent (F) Fence 11. (B) Belgium
(C) China
(FG)Fiberguides
@ oooo (L) Light
(T)
(U)
Taiwan
UnitedStates
EffiRverase (M) Mitergauge
kit
(R) Riser-block
(SB) Sandingbeltandplaten 12. Pricescurrentat timeof article's
is sawunderno load.
8. Firstmeasurement anddo notinclude
production,
Secondmeasurement redoak.
is whileresawing (SK) Three-speedkit
shippingwhereaPPlicable.
lO-st tool tune-up:
IUne-upi
:,'{'":
furt as with your car.a few minutesof
J regularmaintenance on your bandsau'
can save you time and money over the
long haul. The next time you change
bladeson your saw (or right afteryou'\'e
assembled your new saw),taketen min-
utesto ensureyour tool's in tip-topshape
andrunningtrue.Here'show.
I Unplug the saw, then removethe
I blade as you normally would:
I Releasebladetension,backout the
blade guides and thrust bearings,and
removeguardsif necessary. Removethe
guideblocks,and cleanand squaretheir
contactsurfaces.if necessarry.
Clean the wheels. No matter horv
effective the machine's dust col-
lection. some debris always sets
mashed between the blade and tire. Hold
100-grit sandpaperagainst the surface of
the tire and rotate the wheel by hand
until the tire is residue-free. Brush or
vacuum accumulated dust from inside
the wheel housinss.
Installandtensionthe blade.If the
blade is brand new, first wipe it
with a paper towel or cloth to
remove any oil. Although rnost bandsar,vs
have a tension indicator, we've always
had better luck tensionin-uby hand (or by
ear-more on that in a moment). With
the upper guard 6" above the tabletop and
the guide blocks reinstalled.push on the
side of the blade with your pinky finger
about 3" above the table. If the blade
deflects more than I/+" under moderate
pressure,add more tension.
Some woodworkers pluck the bandsaw
blade like a guitar string to set the ten-
sion. To do this. increase tension and
keep plucking until the tone tums from a
dull buzz into a clear tone. If the tone
begins to deaden again, you've oveften-
sioned the blade: Back it off until the
blade sings again.
Once satisfied rn'ith the tension, make
an index mark somewhere on the blade-
tensioning mechanism. You want to be
able to return to the same tension while
you continue with your tune-Llp.
(By the way, any time you don't plan to
use the saw for a few days. relax the
blade tension. That will help extend the
lif-eof the wheels and wheel bearin-ss.)
I Nign the wheels. It's not enou-uh
t . for the wheels to be parallel: they
= must also be on the same plane, a
condition called "coplaner." To make
them so, be-sin by removin_e the table
from your saw (or at least tilting it as far

WOOD rnagazine October 2002

 ALIGNINGBANDSAWWHEETS
#ir::,,:r
ffi
Top wheel
flfffii
Straightedge
llt
llffii
tL/ll \ \
I ll
lpll -ii:;:'"",","
il*#:1"r"i";'"
u|rIm{
Bottom wheel
Nffi.
WHEELS NOT COPLANER WHEELS PARALLEL,
OR PARALLEL BUT NOT COPLANER
right as it will go.) Open or remove the
wheel coversand lay a long straightedge
againstthe rims of the wheels,as shown
aboveor in the photo opposite,stayingas
close to the hubs as you can. If the
straightedgetouchesall four edgesof the
wheel rims, skip to Step 7. If not, you'll
needto align the wheels,as describedin
Steps5{.
F Start by making the wheels paral-
Illel. With the straightedgeagainst
Vbottr wheels as in Step 4, tilt the
top wheel until the straightedgecontacts
both rims of either wheel. (Follow the
manufacturer's instructions for this
adjustment.)Maintaining contact with
that wheel, keep tilting tlle top wheel
until the gap between the straightedge
and the other wheel is parallel.
&
A double thickness of paper currency pro-
vides proper clearancebetweenthe thrust
bearing and the back edge of the blade.
Remove
WHEELS COPLANER
If the straightedgeisn't touching
all four rims at this point, you'll
needto move one wheel in or out
the distanceof the gap.Again, follow the
manufacturer's instructions for this
adjustment. Some bandsaws require
adding or removing shims behind the
wheel to make them coplaner.Ordinary
washers work fine for these shims, or
make your own from sheetmetal. If you
had to remove the blade to shim the
wheels,reinstalland retensionit.
llf Now it's time to check the blade
f tracking.If you've doneeverything
- properly so far,'little adjustment
should be needed.Rotate the top wheel
by hand,watchingtheblade'spositionon
the tire surface.If the bladeworks its way
to one edgeor the other.tweak the wheel-
A dollar bill wrapped around the blade
helps set the saw's guide blocks.
tilt slightly until it travels true. Don't
worry aboutkeepingthe blade dead-cen-
ter in thetire; it shouldjust find a line and
stickto it. Replaceor closeandsecurethe
wheelcovers.
f) Got a dollar?It's the cheapestfeel-
gaugeyou'll find. Fold the bill,
)(5"r
lUplace it betweenthe upper thrust
bearingandthebackedgeof theblade,as
shown in the Photo A, and adjust the
bearinglocationuntil it just holdsthe bill
in place. Securethe bearing,and repeat
for the lower thrust bearing.
f\Position the upper guide-block
$assembly so that the front edgeof
lV the blocks are just a whisker
behind the blade's gullets (the valleys
betweenthe teeth).Repeatfor the lower
guide-blockassembly.
Placeone thicknessof your dollar-bill
feeler gaugebetweenthe upperleft guide
block and the blade,and adjustthe block
so that it pinchesthe bill betweenblock
and blade without deflectingthe blade.
Securethe left block.With the bill still in
place on the left, thread the other end
between the right block and the blade,
snug the right block up againstthe bill
and blade (as shown in Photo B), and
lock it into place. Now, repeat this
processfor the lower guideblocks.
I tl Reinstall the table. Raise the
I I lupper blade-guideassemblyas
lVhigh as it will go, and use a
drafting triangleor combinationsquareto
ensurethe table is perpendicularto the
blade,as shownin Photo C. If not, adjust
the table's 0" stop (usually a bolt under
the table)in or out until it is. 'F
With the bandsaw table's 0' stop set
precisely, you're ready to begin cutting.
81
 ************
case
fi,tterctsmial
esigned for a 5x9r/z' American flag,
this case preserves the carefully-
folded symbol of our nation and
honors the memory of a loved one.You c;ln
set this case on a tabletop or shelf, or
hang it on a wall courtesy of a clever
pair of bevel-edge cleats.
Making a flag case usually requires
cutting long, narrow 22r/2" miters
where the sides meet the base.
By fitting the base between the
sides, our design eliminates
these difficutt cuts, leaving
you with easy 45o miters
all around.

82 WOOD rnagazine Oqtober2002

 E uren DETATL CUTTINGTHESPLINEKERFS

1814"

2413/sz"

Ftrst, rnake the triangrrlar frarne

I Plane a t/qx4x72" board to /2" thick for the sides(A) and the
I base(B). Cut thesepartsto the width and about 1" longerthan
the lengthslisted in the Materials List. Savethe extra stock for
testing the spline-kerf cuts later. Take care to plane your
material accuratelv.It must be exactlv Vz"thick for all the
frame dimensionsto work.
)Vtiter-cut partsA and B to length, to the dimen-
Etsions shown on Drawing 1. Note that all the
miters cuts are 45o and that the basefits between
the sides.Miter the endsof your test piecefor
use later when setting up your tablesawto
cut the splinekerfs in the sides(A).
QReferring to the three steps
tfshown at right, cut the spline
kerfs in the mitered ends of parts
A and B. Use your testpieceto
verify the accuracy of your
saw setupsbefore cutting
the kerfs in the parts.
zAexl2".
/_nip a
Estrip of VB'
hardboard. then
crosscutthree
3t/a"-Iong
splines.
Test
the fit
of ttre splines
in the kerfs. We had to
lightly sandour splinesfor a good
fit. Dry-assemblethe sidesand basewith the
splinesto checkthe fit, then apply glue to the miters and
splines,and clamp the frame together,as shown in PhotoA.

Add the trirn, backn glassn and liners

I From the edgeof azA"-thick,25"-longboard,rip six Vz"-widestripsfor
I the side trim (C) and basetrim (D). Laying the strips on their 3/q"faces,
plane them to s4" thick. Miter-cut two setsof trim to length, one set each
for the frame's front and back. The trim miters match those of the frame.
The outsideedgesof the trim and frame are flush, as shown on Drawing 2.
)Glue and clamp one setof trim (C, D) to the frame's front edge.With Set the assembled frame on a flat surface, and draw its
Cr the glue dry, clamp (do not glue) the other setto the frame's back edge, mitered corners together with a pair of bandclamps.

www.woodonline.com
flag case * a hero's memorial

p clenrs

#8 x 11/z'F.H.wood screw mountedto wall

Iz', Miteredends

l<- 7i/4" --------------1 \Saw *ef

_t # 8 x t / 2 "F . H .
wood screw
45" bevel
_l
1674a
1/aXTAa X 33/a"

23114a
#4 x 1" brass
F.H.wood screw
161/2"
7o+"shank hole,countersunk
\ on backside
t-"( r--
_?31/.ra"
glass
Single-strength

2413/sz"
E sroesEcroNvrEW #4 x 1" brass
F.H.woodscrew
Mitered
ends
Wall
Mitered
ends E exploDED
vtEW #8 x 1/2"F.H.
wood screw

Drivethe screw
and drill pilot and countersunkshankholes,where shown on into a stud or
Drawing3. Set the back trim aside. use a wall anchor.
(E), placethe frame'sbacktop 90ocor- )
?fo lay out the back I
lJner on the 90o cornerof a piece of W" hardboard.Trace a
line onto the hardboardalong the insideedgeof the base(B).
#8 x 11/z'F.H.
Bandsawandjoint to the line. Have a pieceof single-strength wood screw
glasscut to fit insidethe frame,leavinga Vre"spaceall around.
(You also can use clear acrylic sheet,and cut it with an 80-
tooth carbide-tippedblade.),
ResawazAx3Vqx36"boardin half, andplaneit to r/+"thick
'l,,[
for the side liners (F) and baseliner (G). Cut theseparts
about %" wider and t/2" longer than the dimensionslisted.
Miter-cut the parts to fit inside the frame. The fit should be
snug,but not tight. To determinethe exactwidth for the liners,
place the frame facedown on your bench,and lay in the glass
and back. Slide the liners into the frame, and mark their fin-
ishedwidth by striking a line even with the back edgesof the
frame.Removethe liners,and trim them to width.
f Planeat/qx2xl}" boardto3/s"thick to makea blank for the
rJback cleat (H) and wall cleat (I). Make a 45" bevel rip
along one edge,whereshownon Drawing4. Cut partsH and I
from the blank wheredimentioned.Drill a countersunkhole in
the wall cleat (I) for attachmentto the wall later.
ftAssemble the glass, liners (F, G), and back (E) in the
lJframe. Screw the back side trim (C) in place. Glue and
clamp the back cleat(H) to the back with its 90' cornernested
in the corner formed by the trim, and the bevel oriented as
shownon Drawing2. With the glue dry, removethe back,drill
a pilot and countersunkshank hole in the back and cleat, and
The mating cleat bevels provide concealed attachment. Level
drive in the screw. the wall cleat during installationto ensure a level-hangingcase.

84 WOOD magazine October 2002

Aprrlv finish and
a3Seinlele the case The correct wav- to fold the
I Removethe linersandglass.Sandall
I the parts, except the back, to 220 Arnerican flag
grit. Easeany sharpedgeswith a sand-
Our flag case is shapedto hold a
ing block. Apply two coats of satin properly-folded 5x9t/z'Americanflag.
polyurethane,sanding lightly wrth 220- Here'show it's done.
grit sandpaperbetweencoats.
)Witn rhe finish dry, lay the frame Step I
Erfacedown on vour workbench.Place Foldthe flag in half.
the glass in the fiame, insert the liners, You now have open and
then the folded flag. Add the back, and closededges.
screw the rear side and basetrim (C, D)
in place. If you need to fold your flag to
fit the case,seethe sidebar,"The correct
way to fold the American flag" at right.
(I)
QFasten the wall cleat to the wall, Step 2
tfeither screwins into a wall stud. or Fold in half againtoward
using a wall ancho-r.Check the cleat for the open edge.
level. Hang the case.Note how the back
cleat (H) and the wall cleat (I) interlock
in PhotoB and on Drawing2.al

Step 3
Foldthe closedcorner
towardthe open edge,
A'sides 1/z' 33/a' 18V4' C forminga triangle.
B-base 1/z' 37e' 241Vsz" C
C*sidetrim Ve' Vc' 181A' C
D'base
trim Vau Vc' 2311/te" C
E back V4u 167Aa"167Aa" H
1/cu 31Aa" 161/2' c
Step 4
F*sideliners Foldthe pointof the
G*base
liner th, 31/rc', 2211Aa,' C triangletowardthe .
H-backcleat Va' 2u 4u C b l u efi el d.
l- wallcleat Vau 2u 71/cu C
-Parts
initially
cutoversize,
Seetheinstructions,
Materials
Key:C<herry, H-hardboard,
t/e"hardboard,
Supplies: #4x1"brass
flathead
wood Steps 5-t I
(12),#8xr/2"
screws flathead
woodscrew,#8x1t/2"
flat- Continuefoldinguntil
headwoodscrew,wallanchor, glass.
single-strength you have one squareof
the field left.

crrtting diagfinrnr
Steps l2-f3
Foldthe open cornerof
the squaretowardthe
closededge.Tuck the
resultingtriangleintothe
rest of the flag.

tAx24 x 24" Hardboard

3/qx 5y2x 96" Cherry *Planeor resawto the thicknesslistedin the MaterialsList.

3/ax 51/zx 96" Cherry

85
 *
\41 t
.t

oo WOOD magazine October ltrlr2

- t |le woodworkerslove the wrn-
lf,t ter, when outdoor choresend
U U and nasty weather drive us
indoors to where we wanted to be in the
first place-our workshops. But if our
shops lack heat, we could be sidelined
for much of the woodworking season.
To fix the problem, many people turn
to portablespaceheatersfor warmth. But
theseunits often are marginally effective
at best. For real comfort, consider a
dedicatedshop-heatingsystem.
For about the price of a good cabinet
saw,say$1,500,you canbuy the compo-
nents to heat a 24x24' workshop. You
might even find a used appliance for a
fraction of that cost by checking with
local heating contractors. Professional
installation will cost in the range of
20-30 percent more. Here are some
smart, widely-available options. (For a
quick overview of the Epes, seethe chart
and sourcesat the end of the article.)
such as one causedby improperly dis-
carded finishing rags. (You always lay
your oily rags out to dry flat, right?)
I Unigre reguirements:Differences in
climate, construction, and usage dictate
different heating needs in every shop.
Check out "A heated debate," on page
90, for more individual considerations.
TIre old relialtle: a gas-
fired, forced-air frrrnace
Forced-air heatersfall into a couple of
categories: Self-contained heaters that
mount to the wall or hang from the ceil-
ing and the traditional ducted furnace,
found in many homes.
Self-contained heaters, such as the
model shown in the photo, right, have
been standardissuein shopsand garages
for years.They don't eat floor space,and
are relatively easyto install becausethey
don't require ducting. Theseheaterspro-
duce heat from economical liquid
propane(LP) or natural gas.Most circu-
late warmed air using a fan. Unlike older
versions,some modern units draw com-
bustion air from the outside,as shown in
the drawing, below middle.
A traditional furnace disffibutes air
through a series of ducts to just where
you want it. Installation involves more
challenges,but a furnacealso accommo-
datescentral air conditioning.
If you choose a furnace that doesn't
draw outsideairfor combustion,install it
in a separateroom to minimize dust and
fume hazards. The drawing, bottom,
showsone way to do this.
A ceiling-mounted heater,suchas this
unit from Reznor,
installseasily,
provided you -
haveaccess
to LP or
naturalgas.

Burning issrres Direct-verrt intake and erlranrst systettl

Shops share some of the same heating
concernsashomes,but significantdiffer- Inletair guard
encesexist, as well. Keep the following a[rpipe
Combustion
-f>
in mind as you plan a heatingsystem.
I Insulation: You can't bring warmth
effectively in until you keep the cold out
by sealingand insulating your shop.The /t
Screened
up-front expenseis small compared to exhaustcap
what you'll savein the long run.
This differenceis easyto seelooking at Most direct-vent and separated-combustion heaters feature a 2-in-1 pipe that draws
heating requirements,figured in British intake air and exhausts waste through a single opening in the wall.
Thermal Units (BTUs) per hour. For a
24x24' shop in the upper Midwest, Ilbrced-air frrrnace sholr lreating
where winter temperaturesdip below
0 degrees Fahrenheit, manufacturers
quote an averageof about 25,000 BTUs
per hour for an insulatedshop,and more
than 50,000 for one without insulation.
I flir gudity: Fill the air in your shop
with enough fine sawdust or finishing
fumes, and you'll have the potential for
an explosion. So stay away from open-
H
flame heaters and from electric units
with exposedheating elements.Choose
a unit that, if electric, has shielded ele-
ments,or, if gas-powered,draws outside
air for combustionrather than shop air.
I Insurance and permits: Before you
install a heating system,check out local
code requirementsgoverning the types
of heaters you can use, installation
restrictions, and required permits. Talk
to your insurance company, as well.
Skirting these stepscould lead to fines,
or to denied claims if you have a fre- Locating the furnace in an adjoining, unheated room eliminates potential for a dust
evenone unrelatedto the heatingsystem, or fume explosion. A filtered cold-air return traps shop-generated dust.

www.woodonline.com 87
whole-shop heating systems

Radiant tube heaters, such as this
Re-Verber-Rayunit, are available in sever-
al sizes, and can be configured in straight,
"U" and "L" shapes to fit the space
Trrrn on the trrbe
If you haveaccessto gas,but don't want
forced-air heating, check out a ceiling-
mounted radiant tube heater, shown in
the photo and illustration, above.
Tube heatersburn LP or natural gas,
which warms the air inside a long metal
pipe. Heat radiatesdownward, warming
objects it strikes. The system has no
externalfan to stir up dust in the shop.
Heat rrnder feet
When building a new shop (oh yeah, it's
a "gatage," we won't tell), you might
considerhydronic, in-floor radiant heat- r costs with other systems may make it
ing. These systemsare becoming more
affordable and increasingly popular in
homes,shops,and buildingsof all types.
As shown in the photo, bottom left, the
heart of a hydronic systemis a network
of plastic tubes, usually imbedded in a
Just like the sun, radiant heaters warm the objects in the room, such as the floor or
any pieces of equipment,which in turn radiate heat back out, warming the air.
concrete floor. Hot water pumped
through the tubing heats the concrete,
which actsas a giant radiator and warms
everything aboveit.
You can power a hydronic systemfor a
two-car-garage-sized shop with a small
water heater.(If it's a gas unit, you still
need to isolate the flame from shop air,
of course.)You canbuild a "closed" sys-
tem filled with antifreeze,or run a water
supply to the shop and let the heating
systemprovide hot water, as well.
Electric options
Electricity has traditionally been an
expensiveheat source.Even so,the setup
worth considering, especially if your
BTU needsare low or you spendlimited
time in the shop during cool seasons.
Unlessyou're dedicatedto very tradi-
tional woodworking, you already have
electric serviceto your shop, so chances
are you won't needanything more to run
an electric heater.Units that run on 220
volts generallyproducemore heat.
Electric heaters come in many sizes
and styles, and it's easy to add more
based on need. Portablesdon't require
special insurance, and even permanent
units seldomrequire a permit.
Radiantpanels,suchas the onesshown
below, from RadiantElectric Heat, Inc.,
pass electricity over a large metal plate
to produce warmth. These heaters are
fairly immune to dust and fume dangers.
According to the manufacturer,heat-
ing with radiant electric panels costs
about the sameas using a natural gas or
LP forced-air system. Electricity costs
more per BTU but, becauseradiant heat-
ing warms objects and not just the air,
electricpanelsheatusing fewer BTUs
Other electric options include in-floor,
ceiling-mounted,and simple "plug-and-
play" baseboardunits.
Contined on page 90

Cove heaters from Radiant Electric Heat.

Inc. provide economical radiant heat
In a radiant-slab floor, water flows through flexible plastic tubing that gets routed and without taking up much space. Heating
secured before pouring concrete. Electric in-floor radiant systems exist, as well. large areas requires multiple units.

88 WOOD magazine October 2002

whole-shop heating systems

split firewood. Even with _qoodwood, an A heated debate:

inexpensive stove can be hard to regu-
Deciding how many
late, causing wide temperature swings.
And unless you make special trips to
BTUs you should use
stoke the fire, you'll lose your heat when Whatevertype of heatingsystemyou
not in the shop. choose,answerthesequestionsbefore
Insurance companies may balk at a you shop.Discussthe answerswitha
stove's open flame and hot surfaces. heatingcontractoror salespersonto
Also. some communities with strict air ensurethat you selectthe size and type
of systemthat bestsuitsyour needs.
standards re_gulatethe use of wood-
burning stoves and fireplaces. A stove l. Doesyourshopstandaloneoris it attached
may look great in the shop, but isn't the
toanother heated structure?
safest heat source. JF 2. Howmanyexterior wallsdoesyourshop
have,andaretheycunently insulated?
Writtenby DavidStone 3. ls it a dedicated shop,ora spacealsoused
lllustrations:
Kim Downing;LornaJohnson; fora garage
RoxanneLeMoine; Jim Stevenson
orotherpurposes?
Photographs:MartyBaldwin;Reznor,Inc.; 4. Whataretheshopdimensions?
RadiantElectricHeat,Inc.;RadiantFloorCo.;
CraigCarpenter 5. Howhigharetheceilings?
6. Whatconstruction makeupyour
materials
Foradditional
helpwithsetting
upa heating
systeminyour shop(wood, brick,concrete
block,etc.)?
shop,
contact
a local
heating contractor,
ortakea lookatlhe ?. Doyouknowtheinsulation valuesinthe
While a wood stove seems perfect for products
offeredbythesecompanies: wallsandceiling?
heatingshops, modern gas and electric
systems are simpler and safer to use.
Detroit
Radiant
ProductsCo.ifie"Verber'Rayl 8. Howmanywindows doestheshophave,and
radiant
Overhead tubeheating
systems aretheysingle-pane orhigh-efficiency
units?
100/www.
8001222-1 reverberrarl.c0m
Is r,vood good? 9. Howmanyexterior doorsarethere?
Radiant
Electric
l"leat.
lne. 10.Doestheshophaveoverhead garage
A wood-burning stove seems like the Radiant
electric
cove, wall-mounled,
andbaseboard
heating
ultin-rateromantic sollrce of shop heat for syslems.
800
1774-4450lwww.electricheat.com
doors? lf so,aretheyinsulated?
many woodworkers. Afier all, you're ll. Howmanyhoursperweekdoyouspendin
Floor
Radiant Co. theshopduring
makin-e fuel all the tir-nein the form of coldseasons?
Hydronic
floorheating
systems
scrapsand (heaven tbrbid) rnistakes.But 866/927-6863/www,
radiantcompany.com 12.Whennotintheshop,willyouheatit toat
wood stoves do have drawbacks. leastabove freezing?
Heznor,
lnc.
First, those kiln-dried scraps burn up Ceiling-mounted, 13.Doyouhavea gaslinenearthebuilding, or
self-contained
heating
systems
pretty quickly. so you'll needa supply of 800/695-
1901/www,
reznoronline.com willyouhavetorunone?

Type Available Unit Cost Installation OperatingCost Pros/Gons

BW range Cost
Conventional 25,000-100,000Moderate/hiohModerate/hiqh Low/moderate . Availablein a range of stylesand prices.
forced-airfurnace ($1,500-$3,000)
($8oo-$1,500) . Requiresgas line,ducting,and venting.
. Mav dry out shop air and stir up dust.
. Requiresisolationof flamefrom shop air.
r Ductingcan be usedfor air conditioning.
Self-contained 30,000-125,000 Moderate Moderate LoMmoderate . Availablein a wide rangeof sizes.
forced-airheater ($800-$1,200) ($400-$800) . Requiresgas line and venting.
. May dry out shop air and stir up dust.
. Requiresisolationof flame from shop air.
. Unitswith fans may be noisy.
Overheadradiant 25,000-50,000 Moderate Low/moderate Low . Not distributedas widelyas othersystems.
tube heater ($750-$1,1oo) ($250-$1,ooo) . Requiresgas lineand venting.
. Can interferewith overheadgaragedoors.
. Requiresceilingsat leastB'-high.
. Not availablein low-BTUsizes.
Hydronicfloor heater Lodmoderate
5,000-100,000Moderate/hioh Low . Provideseven heatingthroughoutspace.
($3oo-$500.)
($9oo-$1,500)'-Not . A small gas or electricwater heatercan power
including
concrete slab most shop-sizedsystems.
t . Can providehot water, if desired.
. Requiresnew constructionor new floor.
Electricheater 500-2,500 Low Low Moderate/high . Many stylesavailablein home centers.
($75-$500 ($o-$5oo) . EasVto install:plug in or hard-wire.
. Poftablemodelscan be expensiveto operate.
. Effectivein low-BTU-needregions.
. Requiresgangingsmallindividualunits.

90 WOOD magazine October 2002

 "GIVINGAWAY''
WHY AREWE PRACTICALLY
shop-ploven products
:'1
uit*'

{ _{f,lp,p, These warespassed

woodworking 0urshoptrials
r 'P..'\
l!lt t DeWaltts rilrlti-base
#
'* # i :"t.:
-,,i^SF*H.up router lcit gets it right
rrTla-"t, I havea personalrule
againstbuyingmulti-
ff405 Woodworl(ing anythingtoolsbecause
eachfunctiontypically

Patternsfor Only compromises the others.

DeWalt'snew DW6l SPK
routerkit is an
2c Each?"
(By Frank K. Wood)
multi-base
exceptionto the rule.
The heartof the system
FC&A, a Peachtree City, Georgia, publisher, announced is thefixed-base DW618K,
today that it is practically "giving away" an all-new set of "405 boastingsoft-griphandles
Woodworking Patterns."
o Welcome signs for every occasion. anda 2V+-hp,soft-start,
o Glider swing, adirondak table and chair. electronicvariable-speed
o Gardening grandparents and bunny. motor.That removable DeWaItDW6lBPK
o Swinging scarecrow and a scarecrow on Performance *****
a fence.
motor alsosnapsinto a
Price & plunge
$250(fixed-base kit)
o Giant rocking horse, carousel and sea matchingplungebaseor
horse tables.
$190(fixedbaserouteronly)
D-handlebase.I cut $80(D-handle baseonly)
o Potato bin chest and collapsible basket.
o Birdhouses and birdfeeders in different somehefty mortises *****
styles. usingthe plungebase CallDeWalt orvisit
at 800/433-9258,
o Ye olde English carolers, Christmas yard ornaments. anddetectedno hint of www,dewalt.com.
o Whizzing whirligigs like the rowing fisherman, flying eagle,
flamingo, mallard duck and swimming fish.
strainfrom the machine.
o Christmas mouse for your house, Christmas train in case of rain! Insteadof rotatingthe motor in the fixed baseto adjustthe
o Santas galore. height,the DW6l8K's twist ring smoothlythreadsthe motorup
o Shelf sitter's see-sawcollection.
o Kitty door stop and four seasonsperpetual calendar. anddown withoutrotatingit. That meansthe power switchstays
o Comical clowns, napkin rings and shelf brackets. in one place:within easyreachof your thumb.In a thoughtfulnod
o Holstein cow - with udders that shudder and swinging tail too! to left-handedusers,DeWaltengineersdesignedthemotorso you
Southwestern
o Southwestern cactuscollection.
cactus collection. t*
t*.
alsocanmountit with theswitchon theleft side.
: X;;*1.',1,tffi-J:Ti:0""
o Wooden toys for girls and boys.

"t*k, tf
fu D _.

g"=i@r[F Speakingof user-friendly engineering, theDW6l8K's detach-

'\
ffiff*td
F-e4.:." I
-
| ffi*
Build all thesewoodenfavorites.Illustratedplans includeintri-
catelydetailedpatternsandcompleteinstructions.To ordera set,just
retum this notice with your nameand addressand a checkfor $9.99
plus $3.00 shipping and handling,and we will send you "405
WoodworkingPatterns;'Or,for only $ 12.99plus$3.00shippingand
handling,you cangetboth the basicsetandan extra100patterns.
Plus,you'll alsoget a free previewof companionsetsof FC&A
WoodworkingPatterns,abouteverytwo months,on a 30 day free
trial. You can keeponly thosesetsyou want and cancelany time.
Sendyour checkalong with your nameand addressto: FC&A,
Dept. AWZ-10, 103Clover Green,PeachtreeCity, GA 30269.
Yougeta no-time-limitguarantee or yourmoneyback.
of satisfaction
You must cut out and return this notice with your order.
Copieswill not be accepted!
IMPORTANT - FREE GIFT OFFER
EXPIRES NOVEMBER 5, 2OO2
All orders mailed by November 5,2002, will receivea free
giftr "50 Special,Seasonal,WoodworkingPatterns," guaranteed.
Order right away! oFC&A 2002
ablepowercord makesthe changeover to the D-handlebasehas-
sle-free.Simply twist the baseof the cord to removeit from the
motor,plug it into the baseon the handle,thenplug the D-han-
dle's shoftcord into the motor,as shownabove.
The truetestof a multi-basekit is its plungebase,andthis one
provedfluid-smoothand steady.It alsohasthrough-the-plunge-
postdustcollection,whicheffectivelyclearedthe chipsfrom even
deepmortises.My only gripe aboutthe plungebaseis thatthe
beefydepth-stoprod hidesa fair amountof the depthscale.
Almost as impressiveasthe performance is the numberof
accessories thatcomewith the DW6l8PK. In additionto thefixed
andplungebases,the $250kit includesa carying case,t/t" and
%" self-releasingcollets,two clearLexansubbases (onethat
acceptsPorter-Cable-style guidebushings,andone with a larger
2t/2"bit opening),anda neatconcentricitytool-the cone-shaped
gadgetin the foregroundof the photo-that centersthe subbase
(or your routertableinsertplate)over the collet.
The fixed-baserouteralsocomesin a 1%-hp,fixed-speedcon-
figuration(modelDW6l6K) for $30less.It's alsoavailablein kit
form with plunge-andD-handlebases'
-TestedbyGeorge Granseth
Corttinued on Page 100
92 WOOD magazine October 2002
 oFFEBs
00DL|'N'EUSA You
MIBE,,, shop-proven products
TIME I AllWoodline
USAProducts Feature
ToughMicroGrainCarbide Elirninate bandsaw
tension headaches
SET Bandsawmanufacturersrecommend
relaxingthe tensionon your bandsaw
Inclu 6 PieceGABIIUEIDOORSF
Bits
5Straight 1/2ShankRouterBils bladebetweenjobs, but few of us do
.2-pcRail (Roman
&Stile Ogee).
DrawerLo*
6Roundovers .3 becauseit's a pain.Carter'sQuick Release
1/4"DPanel (Ogee).
Raiser DoorLip.Glue
Joint
3 Dovetails BandsawBladeTensionToggleis just the
3CoreBox wL-2020-1 $175VALUE
3CoveBits oUR PRIGEOItltY$l I I set tonic to relievethatpain.
2 Flush
Trim,
1PanelBit Fitting 14" bandsawsfrom Craftsman,
2Roman
0gee, 1"V"Groove 5 Piece
2slotcutters, GABNET Delta,Jet,andRidgid,a pull of the Quick
1Chamferand
1BevelTrim
Bil SUPER BUY Releaselever slackensall bladetension:
vul-2noouR
PRrcE
omY$l O9 r* pushingthe leverbackup instantly
retensions the blade.Installationrequires
disassembling the saw'stensioningmech-
f 5 Piecell2"
anism,drilling mountingholeswith the bit
SHA]IIKSET
Inclu< that comeswith Quick Release,anri
r Qhgrnfgy
r Sgyg=
'i, reassembling the tensioningmechanism.
1/2'R,3/g'R,1/4'R
. Roundover
= If you changebladesizes,you'll still
1/2'R,3/8'R,
1/4'R haveto retensionfor the new blade.Quick
. Roman =
0gee 1/4"R
. straighl
Bits=3/4"R,1/2"R,
1/4',R Releasehelpshere,too. I found that I
. 1/2"Dovetail
.1/2"Roundover
.1"CL FlushTrim. Rabbet
Bit
couldcenterthe new bladeon the wheels,
WL-20221or
112"or WL-2021for
l/4"SHANK
SET
temporarilytensionthe bladeby lifting
OURPRIGEOllfl,Y$59 eachset (not locking) the lever,then spin the blade
ffi
12'ShankRouterBits
WL-2011$175VALUE by handto checktracking.
5 PieceDOUEIAIISET oIItY $99 set
OURPRIGE At a price of $150,Quick Releasemay
. 14"3/4". 14"5/8'
,8o112', 14o112' not be for the economy-mindedwood-
. 14"3/8" worker.But, if you havelimited hand
1/2Shank RouterBits
| 3 PieceDOUEIAIISET
1/2'ShankRouterBih strength,or want to maximizethe life of
wL-2017 .3 Straight
Blh
your bandsawandblades,you'll find it
'10 DovetailBils
$3()VALUE
:; wL-2014 moneywell spent.
OURPRIGEOIUTY$l9 set
$12s -Tested by Jeff Hall
VALUE
8 Piece
PTIUREFRATESET bunpnrcEorrY$49 set
Perfecl great
formaking picture
looking frames.
Bits
canbecombind
f0brmofir$or

9 Piece DADO$ET '."''

ilIASTER
Includes
UndersizeforPlywood,
Standard
lorHardwood
and0versize
forMelamine
orVeneered
Materials
ln3fopular
Sizes:
1A',1/2'and
il4',
,w1.2030
iWVALUE
Oilrv$49 set
OUnPnrcE

1i2'Shank
Router
Bits
\\tr4 5 Piece
1/4'R
GOUE
SEl
.3/8"R
WL.2O15
. 1/2'H
$99VALUE
. 5/g'R.3/4.R

*Ez^Cr^' bun pnle oiltY $49 set

WOODLINEUS,T
E-mail:woodline@woodbits.com
wooDBtTs Visitus
at ourWebsite:r*-tSlcg;,4
QuickReleaseBandsawBlade
GREATROUTERBITSANDSHAPERCUTTERS TensionTogqle
BESTSELECTION/ BESTPRICE! Performance *****
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f -800-472-6950
WOODLINE
USA. PO.BOX298.TEMECULA.
Value ***/iii

CA92593 CallCader
Products
toll{ree
at888/622-7837,
or
visitwww.carterproducts.com.
Continuedon page 110
100 WOOD magazine October 2002
shop-proven products

Protnctor angles for
position rryith precision
I was skepticalwhen I saw Gizzly adver-
tising a dial protractorfor only $40. That's
why I was pleasantlysurprisedto find the
angle-settinggaugedead-onaccurateat
every angleI measuredwith a setof
machinist'sprecisionangleblocks.
You can usethe G9900Dial Protractor The G9900Dial Protractor'slargeface
to measurean unknown angleby match- is markedin 5-minute(t/n") gradua-
ing the beamand bladeto the workpiece tions-plenty accuratefor any woodwork-
and locking them in. Or, if you're brying ing task.For measuringanglessmaller
to setup a machinefence,table,or blade than 11o,an acuteangleattachment(not
to a specificangle,first lock in the angle shown)attachesto the beam.al
on the protractorand setthe machineto -TestedbyGarrySmith
matchit.
Grizzly DialProtractor
G9900
Performance *****
$40
*****
lndustrial
CallGrizzly aI8001523-4777,
orvisit
www.gnzzly.com.

Aborrt orrr
product testers
GeorgeGranseftrunsffieachitecfural millwork
prognmat a community nllege.Jeff Hallteaches
woodworkingandoffiertechnicalskillstohigh-
schoalstudenfs.
GarrySmih is a machinist. Nl
areavidwoodworkerg

110 WOOD magazine October 2002

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frr;volutionary
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It's drivenlike nothingelsebeforeit, and it turns like
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ThenewNOVADVR3000 latheis builtaroundan
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 rrvhatts ahead
peekattheNovember
A sneak issue (onsaleOctober
of W00D'magazine 15)

Proiects for your horrren shopr and holiday gift giving

Child'sdesk Fendulum dollcradle

theperfect
Here's complementtothebunkbeds Wanta bighugfromthatspeciallittlegirl
anddresser
found
inthisissue. in yourlife?Here'sjusttheticket.
One-day
workbench
Addstorage toyourshopwitha minimal
andworksurfaces invest-
mentintimeandmaterials.

Hallbenchandcoatrack
Buildoneorbothofthesematching
tradi-
tionalhomeaccents.
Festive
decorations
touchtoyourhome's
Adda craftsman's holiday
I-
--
- atmosphere
withthiswinter
^-- il SCene
andornamenb.

%#
Arched
candleholder
Afewscraps
ofwoodare
allyouneed
tobuild
this
classy
centerpiece.

Tools, Techniques & features

Getyour
money's wortr
in a random-
ortit sander
There'snosander
moreuseful than
onewithrandom-
orbitaction.
We
testeda baker's
dozen to seewhich Rubotityourfinishing
headaches
onesworlrbest. Applyyourfavorite
finish,thenusetheserubbing-
Roughcarpentryandprecision
woodworking
come outtechniques
withfineabrasivesto remove
together
inthistime-honored
home-building
approach. impedections
andachieve a dazzling
sheen.
WOOD nragazine October 2002