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How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds - 7 Tips
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Grow Huge Marijuana Buds
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First name How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds
 Robert Bergman  122 Comments
Email Address  Beginner Guides, Sexing, cloning and harvesting  29 October 2012
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copy  How to get bigger buds: outcome of your harvest, you are going
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need to be able to identify the type of
What are buds
plants you are growing, and then know
Male buds vs. female buds
Bergman's exactly how to grow huge marijuana
Harvesting Tips Remove yellow leaves
buds.
The best nutrients
How much light The bud of a marijuana plant is the
Carbon dioxide prized appendage that appears after a
Temperature and humidity plant enters the flowering stage of its life
The limiting factor cycle. The leaves of the marijuana plant
Pruning tricks contain THC, but the buds of female

plants are the most potent product by
http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/grow-huge-buds/[19.02.2017 18:36:18]
When to harvest
far.
Marijuana Grow The best genetics
Guides BONUS Split the stem
So as an individual grower, it’s important
Beginner Guides BONUS produce more THC
to focus a significant amount of attention
Seeds, soil and
on the buds of your crop.
fertilizer
Sexing, cloning and
If you do it right, you can accomplish incredibly huge buds with a high THC
harvesting
Smoking, hash and content. This guide will equip you with the knowledge you need to accomplish
eating that goal. Keep reading and learn to grow huge marijuana buds.
Sprout, grow and
transplant BONUS: make sure to read the bonus section about splitting the stem of your
plant. The purpose of stem splitting is to disturb the flow of nutrients and water
Indoor Guides
right at the base of the stem. This will cause the plant to start producing more
The basics
trichomes which means heavier and denser buds with higher THC levels.
The grow room
The grow
The harvest
Outdoor Guides What are buds

Plant care Before you can grow huge marijuana buds, you need to have a bit of
Seeds and growsite
background knowledge. For starters, a bud is the growth that pops up during a
The grow
plant’s flowering phase.
The harvest
Plant Care Guides

Nutrients
Pests
Diseases
Environmental
stresses
Control and treatment
Medical Guides
Cannabis buds
About medical
marijuana
Although marijuana plants’ leaves also have a THC content, the buds have a far
Adverse effects of
marijuana
more concentrated amount. This is why the buds are the prize possession of
Medicinal uses any marijuana grower – they are the part of the plant that gets you high. While
Obtain medical both male and female buds contain plenty of THC, there are some important
marijuana differences that distinguish the two.
Male buds vs. female buds

Plenty of people seem to believe that male plants don’t produce smokeable
buds at all. While it’s true that female buds contain the most THC levels, male
buds are also quite potent and able to be smoked.
Latest Marijuana
News
Acne Male vs female cannabis buds
Grapefruit
To Solve the Cartel Male buds look like round flowers that are jam packed with pollen. Be careful
Problem, Not that your males don’t pollinate your females because your plants will start
Cannabis, is The Top
Priority of Trump and producing seeds and less THC. I only grow males to produce seeds and
Sessions remove them from my female plants.
Platinum Girl Scout
Cookies Female buds will start showing up about two weeks later than male buds, and
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they start out as growths that are round, white-colored, and hairy. They show
Association Finally
Removes Incorrect up on the very tip of every branch, as well as at the top of the plant. If treated
Information Regarding
well, the smallest buds on your female plants will grow to be longer than two
Cannabis from Its
Official Website inches.
Back to the Past –
Washington State Bill
Introduced by
See how this bud develops in 8 weeks
Representative Brad
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Bill if Passed
Agent Orange
Skywalker
Also interesting

First sign of bud growth
Buds week 4 flowering
Huge bud week 8 flowering
How To Grow Pictures powered by

Just One Bergmanslab.com
Marijuana Plant
At Home
Since female buds really are the cream of the crop, you are going to want to
ensure that their buds get as large (and potent) as possible. The best way to
achieve this is simply by getting them to grow at a faster rate.
Tip: make sure to download my free Grow Bible for more tips to increase

your yield
Make Your Own
Vape Pen Juice
The faster they grow, the more time they have to become huge. Read the article
Male or female marijuana plants for more information about sexing plants
Remove yellow leaves

The Complete
Guide To Once it has entered the flowering stage, the number one thing to speed up your
Growing
Marijuana plant’s bud growth is to remove any dying leaves.
Naturally
These leaves can be identifying by their yellowing color. They are a lost cause,
and they are using up your plant’s energy and resources that could be focused
on bigger and better things (namely, the buds). Take away the yellowing leaves
to conserve these resources.
How To
Germinate
Cannabis Seeds
Transplanting
Marijuana
Remove bottom yellow leaves
Plants
Instead of discarding these leaves, keep them and cure them properly. They
have a high enough THC content that you can make cannabutter or weed
brownies in case you run out of weed or while you are waiting for the big
harvest.
Like our guides?
You will love
our seeds!
The best nutrients

If you want your buds to be fat and juicy, you are going to have to spoil them a
bit. Take special care of them during the flowering phase of the plant’s life
cycle.
What buds crave most of all is phosphorous, so try a mixture of 10% nitrogen,
30% phosphorous, and 10% potassium (commonly referred to as NPK 10-30-
10) to curb those cravings. At the end your buds can use a boost of extra
potassium.
Use only the best nutrients like Flower Power
Read the article Best fertilizers for marijuana plants for more info on nutrients.
For the best result, you can just use the special formula from the Flower
Power system, a complete nutrient kit for up to 20 plants.
pH
If you haven’t grown marijuana before, you may not know nutrients and pH level
go hand in hand. This is because the pH level of the soil (or whatever grow
medium you are using) at the roots will affect your marijuana plant’s ability to
absorb different kinds of nutrients. Many times, nutrient deficiency or toxicity is
actually caused by a pH imbalance.
With the right pH levels you can grow huge buds. And with the wrong pH
levels you can ruin your yield. So know your pH…
The main nutrients marijuana uses to grow are nitrogen, phosphorus, and
potassium. During vegetation they use a lot of nitrogen, first weeks of flowering
a lot of phosphorus and at the end of flowering a lot of potassium. But they
also use lots of other nutrients, like iron, zinc, calcium and magnesium.
Each nutrient behaves differently when it is in an environment at a different pH

level. To put it simply, the pH level decides how a nutrient or any chemical
compound will “act.” Whether it falls apart, dissolves, or does something else is
based on the pH level.
The pH level can be compared to the temperature and chemicals. For example,
calcium in tap water won’t even be visible if the water is cold because it has
dissolved completely. Once it surpasses the boiling point, however, it will

precipitate instead.
Wrong pH levels create nutrient deficiencies

pH too high
pH too low
At certain acidity levels, certain elements can’t be absorbed by the marijuana

plant’s roots. If the pH level is too low, for example, your marijuana plant won’t
take in magnesium very well. Therefore, even if you’re feeding plenty of
magnesium to your plants, they still will exhibit signs of a magnesium
deficiency.
A magnesium deficiency includes yellowing of leaves and even whitening, but

the veins will still be green colored. Simply supplying your marijuana plant with
more magnesium will not suffice, however, since the pH level is actually the
root of the cause. The key, in this case, is to balance the pH level (or, in the
case of a magnesium deficiency, raise the pH level) until your plant can take in
nutrients.
If growing in soil, you should keep the pH level right around 6. For marijuana
plants growing in other types of media, such as rockwool or other hydroponic
setups, keep the pH level at 5.5.
How to lower the pH

If pH is too high
Lower it with pH down
Until desired value
Pictures powered by
Bergmanslab.com
Of course, the other elements of keeping healthy plants in general also come
into play with growing big buds. Proper amounts of water and light, along with
temperature and good genetics will all affect the way your buds grow.
EC
The electric conductivity, or EC value, illustrates what the salt content is. This
salt content is a measure of how much nutrients are in the soil or in the water
you are feeding your plants. Water with an EC value of 0 is purified, without any
salts or minerals. Its pH level should be 7 if it is balanced and purified.
Regular tap water would not be this balanced since it contains lots of minerals
(including magnesium, calcium, and potassium). Generally speaking, tap water
in the United States has a value of between 0.2 and 0.5. Tap water does not
contain enough nutrients for marijuana plants – you will need to add some.
How to increase EC levels

Add nutrients

If EC it too low Pictures powered by
Until desired value
Bergmanslab.com
The EC value is important because, if it is too low, there aren’t enough nutrients
for your plants to access. An EC value that is too high could also be bad news
for marijuana plants. If nutrient salts start to build up in the soil, the pH value
will decrease, and the roots will not absorb most nutrients as efficiently as they
should.
More about EC/TDS in the article The right EC and pH levels
How much light

One of the most surefire ways of increasing your bud growth is by increasing the
intensity of the light that is hitting your plants. Light is what helps marijuana
plants absorb carbon dioxide and convert that carbon dioxide into useful
sugars.
When it comes to marijuana plants, more light is almost always better. Plants
that aren’t getting enough light will not grow as fast, or they may even stretch
into tall, thin plants that are “reaching” to get closer to the sunlight. These plants
will never be able to produce huge buds.
LED lights are not know for their high yields
If your plant has already grown uneven colas because of poor lighting during its
vegetative state, it will be difficult to evenly and effectively distribute the light.
The buds themselves should have direct exposure to the light for best results.
Note: If you are an indoor grower, try moving the lights closer to your
plants as long as temperatures don’t exceed 80 degrees. This will
increase your yield significantly
Generally speaking, HPS lamps are the best lamps for an indoor growing
operation. For every 13 square feet of growing area, make sure there are 400
Watts of light during the vegetation stage. Also, for every 13 sq ft make sure
there is a 600-watt lamp during the flowering phase. Fluorescent lighting is a
less expensive option that can work well too.
Here are more reference points for how much you can expect to achieve with
various setups:
With a 200-watt CFL lamp, average 1.5 to 2.0 oz (3.5 oz for advanced growers)
using a 3.5 x 1.5 x 6.5 ft. grow cabinet

With a 250-watt HPS lamp, average 3.0 to 5.0 oz (9.0 oz for advanced growers)
using a 3.5 x 1.5 x 6.5 ft. grow cabinet

With a 400-watt HPS lamp, average 4.5 to 9.0 oz (14 oz for advanced growers)
in a 3.5 x 3.5 x 7 ft grow room

With a 600-watt HPS lamp, average 5.0 to 10 oz (21 for advanced growers) in a
4 x 4 x 8 ft grow room

With a 1000-watt HPS lamp, average 9.0 to 18 oz (36 for advanced growers) in
a 5 x 5 x 8 ft grow room (with extra CO2 only)
Read more about Marijuana grow lights if you’re growing indoors or about yield
in my article about Marijuana yields
Carbon dioxide
Imagine how much you love food. That is how much your marijuana plants love
carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide is vital for the flowering and growth of your
marijuana plant (and any plant, for that matter). Overall, the more carbon
dioxide, the better.
If you increase the amount of CO2 that your plant is receiving, you will
essentially be “feeding” them more, allowing their growth to be sped up even
further and achieve bigger buds. Adding CO2 nicely complements increasing
light intensity, since it basically is expanding your plant’s ability to use light.
Grow monster buds with CO2
Between 350 and 400 ppm of carbon dioxide is standard in the air. The
marijuana plant will take this carbon dioxide and combine it with light energy to
create the sugars it needs to grow.
If the level of carbon dioxide begins to drop, the sugar production in your
marijuana plants will also start to decline. This is why ventilation is so important
— there always needs to be an incoming supply of fresh carbon dioxide.
Note: CO2 alone will not increase the yield. The more light and CO2 your
plant gets, the more efficiently it will grow. This will also keep your plant
from ever getting too much light since the added CO2 will increase its
light capacity.
Marijuana plants that have access to between 350 and 400 ppm of carbon
dioxide won’t make a lot more sugars than is possible with a 600-watt HPS light
bulb. Therefore, keeping the carbon dioxide level the same but increasing the
wattage of the light you use will have little effect. However, increasing the
carbon dioxide levels while also increasing the light will help your marijuana
plants be far more productive — expect nearly double yields.
This can be an expensive endeavor with all the equipment that is required, but
when your yield is so much higher, it can certainly be worth the trouble and the
extra money it costs.
Using CO2 with CO2 reg and timer to get bigger buds
CO2 ENRICHMENT USING REG & TIMER
I

Although it’s pretty tricky to ever reach the light threshold, this is yet another
way to “hack” your plant’s speed of growth. If you do decide to pump extra CO2
into your grow room, be sure to seal it off properly – although it works wonders
for plants, high levels of CO2 can be very dangerous for humans. Read the
article Growing marijuana with CO2 for more info
Temperature and humidity levels

Temperature and humidity need to be at the right level for your plants to reach
their highest budding potential. If the temperature is too high, your buds won’t
have as potent of an aroma.
Proper humidity while growing
When the light is turned on, an ideal temperature for the cuttings and seedlings
is between 68ºF and 77ºF (20ºC and 25ºC). As the plants get older they can
evaporate a little bit more and the temperature may increase to a maximum of
82ºF (28ºC).
When the lights are off, the temperature should lie between 59ºF and 72ºF
(15ºC and 22ºC). Another important rule is that the temperature differences
between day and night cannot be too high, a maximum difference of 50ºF
(10ºC). So when it’s 82ºF (28ºC) during the day, it cannot go below 64ºF (18ºF)
at night. A temperature difference of 40ºF (5ºC) is ideal.
These are the best humidity levels to grow huge buds:
Veg week 1: 70%

Veg week 2: 70%

Flowering week 1: 65%








Controlling your temperature can mean controlling the amount of potency and
smell of your buds – when done properly. Make sure you pay special attention
to your grow room’s temperature throughout its entire life cycle. If you do this,
the results will definitely be to your liking. Read more about temperature or
humidity
The limiting factor

If all the factors above are optimally present, your buds plants will grow as big
as possible. But there’s always a limiting factor. This is the factor of which the
value is furthest away from the optimal value.
Let’s say you have a 250 watt lamp, there’s sufficient CO2 in the room (350pp,
just like outside) and the plant gets enough water and nutrients. The light will
then be the limiting factor. Because if you use a 400 watt lamp in these
circumstances, you can almost double your yield. And you can harvest even
more with a 600 watt lamp.
But if you use a 1000 watt lamp, the plant will need more CO2 than standard air
can provide, causing CO2 to become the limiting factor. The plant can’t convert
all the energy from the lamp, because it needs more CO2 to do so. This is how
all factors are connected and influence the functioning of a plant.
Depending on the stage the plant is in, these values slightly differ, but generally
speaking, these are the perfect values;
Light: 600 watt per 12 square feet

CO2: 350 ppm

Water: as required*

EC: between 1.0 and 2.0

pH: 6

Temperature: 77 degrees F

Humidity: 50-60%
*These values depend on the stage the plants are in. Seedlings can’t take as
much nutrients as older plants, and they’ll evaporate more and more water as
they grow, so you’ll have to water them more. Read more in my article about
Watering marijuana plants
Pruning tricks to increase the yield

Pruning is always done by tomato farmers to increase the yield. The small
shoots between the branches and the trunk are removed so all the energy is
used to maximize fruit production.
But also for marijuana plants it’s very effective to remove these useless shoots
so the plant can develop bigger buds. Using this technique you will get a few
big, hard and heavy buds instead of many smaller ones.

Useless shoots
Can be pruned
To create big buds
Pictures powered by
Bergmanslab.com
Pruning is mostly done by professional cannabis growers who wants to yield the
maximum amount of weed per square foot. Because there is no energy wasted
on the small buds and small leaves the top ones will grow bigger and heavier.
The main colas will also get more light because they’re all at the same height.
Before and after pruning useless bottom shoots
Pruning should only be done during the vegetation stage because the plant
needs time to recover and grow big leaves. Wait at least 3 days after pruning
before forcing them into flower. Make sure your marijuana plants are growing
again and evaporate enough water.
Go easy on the fertilizers and give them a few days to recover. If you have
mastered this technique and do it at the right time it will definitely pay off. No
more small and fluffy buds. You will only get big, hard, and heavy marijuana
buds.
Scrogging
If you use the SCROG (Screen of Green) method you also have to prune your
marijuana plants. Place a screen at 50 cm above your plants. Take the top out
of every plant when it’s 10 centimeters from the screen and wait until the new
tops grow through the screen. Wait until they grow 10 centimeters through the
screen, gently bend them and connect them to the screen.
Just two plants can grow many big buds with scrogging
Prune your marijuana plants after the first shoots have grown through the
screen. Wait a few days and force them into flowering. During the first two
weeks of the flowering phase your marijuana plants will keep growing.
Scrog result after 2 months with 4 plants

Scrog day 20
Scrog day 40
Scrog day 60
Pictures powered by
Bergmanslab.com
Combine the pruning and the SCROG technique and you can grow 1 gram of
marijuana per watt of light. So if you have 1 600watt HPS bulb you should be
able to grow 600 grams of cannabis. Temperature, humidity and other factors
also have to be right of course.
LST or Low Stress Training
“LST” (low-stress training) is a way of training that doesn’t include any cutting. It
is a way of manually manipulating your plants to grow flatter and wider rather
than skinny and tall. It uses bending techniques that anyone can do (but
proceed with caution, as with anything).
Train your plant for bigger buds
LST is effective because it trains the plant to grow in a way that will maximize its
intake of light. Every leaf that is exposed adds another source of energy to your
plant so you can see why it is an effective technique.
LST generally begins at a younger stage of life, before the plant has established
its own shape. Another form of LST is called Screen of Green, and includes a
net. The net (or screen) keeps your plants where you want them, and
maximizes your plants’ use of the indoor growing space.
These forms of training can all be helpful in improving your plants’ yield, starting
from an earlier stage of your plant’s life. Even if you are a veteran grower, trying
a new training technique might be a great way of improving your yield
significantly. Read the article How to prune marijuana plants for a list of all
pruning techniques like topping, low stress trainging, super cropping and
monster cropping.
When to harvest
Ultimately, one of the most important factors in having the most potent and
biggest buds possible is to harvest at the right time. You need to make sure you
have let your buds become as ripe as possible before harvesting.
Sometimes the amount of growth in a bud’s final two or three weeks can be as
much as a 25% increase. In other words, by harvesting too early you could
sacrifice a huge amount of weed.
Harvest at the right time
In general, the best time to harvest falls within a window of two or three weeks.
Harvesting before this window of time would greatly reduce your overall yield,
and will result in less potent weed.
Time of harvest affects the taste, smell and weight of your

buds
0-49% of the pistils are brown – Not ready yet
50-70% of the pistils are brown – Ready for harvest, but it’s still a bit young. Light taste
and mellow high. Maximum weight not yet achieved
70-90% of the pistils are brown – Ready for harvest. Taste and effect are at their peak.
You’ve reached maximum weight
90-100% of the pistils brown – Almost too late for harvest. Taste is heavy and the effect is
narcotic. Harvest right away and don’t wait any longer
You can also choose to harvest a bit earlier or later according to the type of high
you would like to achieve. Earlier harvests generally get a more energetic
buzzing high, while later harvests end up with a very relaxed high. For more
harvesting tips read How to harvest marijuana plants
The best genetics

Once again, genetics is everything. No matter what you do to increase the yield,
poor genetics will prevent a good harvest. If you did choose marijuana seeds
with great genetics, you will be pleased with the end result.
Invest money in good genetics
Luckily, most strains that people buy today generally have very high yields and
potency, which would not have been the case ten years ago. These strains will
grow with fewer problems and will end up with plenty of happy, fat, potent buds.
All in all, the most important way you can increase your yield is by investing
early on in a high-quality strain. It may seem expensive, but the payoff is well
worth the upfront costs. Do your research and pay the money, because the
result will be amazing. Check my seed shop to make sure you buy high quality
marijuana seeds
Splitting the stem

There is one method of increasing the yield of your marijuana plants that not
everyone knows about — splitting the stem. This will help your plants’ buds be
heavier and denser and will improve THC production as well.
This technique is exactly what it sounds like — it involves splitting the stem of
your marijuana plant right at the bottom. It likely originated in China and
Southeast Asia.
To be successful with the stem splitting technique, start out by tying the stem
right at the base, just above the soil. Tie a second rope or cable tie a couple
inches above that. Take a very sharp knife and cut from the top tie to the
bottom tie. There should be one vertical cut that is a few inches in length.
The knife should remain inside until you have a pencil, chopsticks, or other
objects to replace it with to keep both sides of the marijuana plant from
touching each other. Remove the knife partially and rotate it to allow the
chopstick or pencil enough space. Leave the ties in place, so the damage does
not spread.

Tie ropes or cable ties
Cut with knife
Place pencil or chop sticks
The thing about splitting the stem is that it is a tricky technique to master, so you
should only try it on one plant per growing season until you are confident you’ve
gotten it down. Apply this technique a few days or a week before harvest, not
sooner.
Is splitting the stem something you’ve heard of before or are you going to try it?
Please give me your thoughts on this technique in the comments below.
Produce more THC

The purpose of stem splitting is to disturb the flow of nutrients and water right at
the base of the stem. Because of this, the plant will start producing more
trichomes and more THC. Trichomes are responsible for making heavier,
denser buds that are just better overall, so you can see why this is a useful
technique. All cannabinoids are created in the trichomes
Trichomes are small, white drops of resin that appear on your buds — you
probably have seen them at some point, whether or not you knew what they
were at the time. Cannabinoids come from trichomes, so they are absolutely
crucial to the marijuana consumer.
Harvest by looking at trichomes

Clear trichomes – not ready
Milky trichomes – almost
Amber trichomes – ready for
ready harvest
Trichomes have the added bonus of serving as protectors of the marijuana

plants, specifically against diseases and pests. This is because of the thick,
sticky layer that it forms around the marijuana buds. It can also keep your
marijuana buds safe against the wind, UV light, and water when necessary.
Because of this protective feature, more trichomes are produced during times of
stress. Therefore, inducing a certain amount of stress can have amazing effects
on your marijuana plants. Other known techniques are using ice water or keep
their plants in the dark for 48 hours just before the harvest in an attempt to get
more trichomes to be produced.
Thanks for reading. Please leave comments or questions below and don’t forget
to download my free grow bible
Robert
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122 thoughts on “How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds”
By jerry on 4 June 2013
I am just puzzeled about the site today. I was renewing my green card
yesturday and told a new friend , About the site he gave me a call this
A.M having trouble with it. I have disgovered this A.M that it has changed.
It states even my email address is invaild. My opinon don’t care for your
changes. But still wanted bad.! Wished could even get more tips. Jerry
Thanks also Reply
By Paul on 7 February 2017

I had the same thing happen to me on another site while trying to buy
seeds Reply
By tony serhal on 8 September 2014

how do you make those extremely large fat buds. puzzled Reply
By Bragi Asverdh on 13 January 2017

Large plants to start with nature is perportional perfection nature remains a
balance of chaos you can’t grow 2 foot buds on a 4 or five foot plant
nature won’t allow so start with huge plants equil big buds Reply
By tray delgado on 16 September 2014

Very good advice easy to understand thank you very much is the book as
good thank you Reply
By Janis on 4 December 2014

I would just like to know on average, how many months it takes before you
see buds. This is my first attempt, it has been 3 months. Thanks! Reply
By Holliwood on 11 March 2016

Have you switched to 12/12 light cycle yet? Reply
By Glenn Herman on 10 November 2016

You can find pairs of hairs at bud sites in7 to 10 days, but full little buds
about 2 1/2 to 3 weeks. Reply
By janet on 13 January 2017

Once you switch your lights to 12 hours on, 12 hours off, depending on the
strain you should start to see buds in about 2 weeks with them finishing
around 8 weeks Reply
By leonard on 30 April 2015

Reply
how good is a 250 watt hps for flowering could i yield very large flowers
By Robert Bergman on 30 April 2015

Hi Leonard,
250 watt HPS are perfect for flowering. Read this article about how much
a plant can produce Reply
By Tarey on 10 March 2016

Is too much light when flowering a problem? I am trying to solve the
smallish bud problem. My nugs are not tight, they are about the size of
the first digit of my thumb when still damp. Equipment: I have 2 Mars
Hydro 700 watt LEDs, and 2 350 watt CFL fill lights on a 12/12 schedule. I
use these in a 4 x 4 tent. I used better nutes this time for flowering –
adding Humboldt Secret Golden Tree and Humboldt’s Sonic Bloom (0-51-
34), as well as a pinch of Miracle Grow for Azalea’s for Nitrogen (30-10-
10). Sometimes I use Atomic Bloomz – hormones with vital nutrients. My
feeding schedule is usually Nutes-Water-Water. I grow in dirt – Fox Farm.
I’ve done LST. I work to keep temperatures and humidity in the right ball
park. It is winter still in Detroit so it is really dry.(On my clones and
seedlings and young plants I use a small humidifier. ) I have an CO2 tank
with all the apparatus and I have to hook that up as soon as I get the
room airtight the refill company scared me about having it blow up in the
room and having the CO2 kill us! So I have been cagey with it). Guess
that’s it. I was gearing toward SOG or SCROG, with 1.3 gallon planters,
with the LST etc. and I found that my little SOG plants had bigger more
compact nugs and output only 30% less than big 3 foot plants that had
been in there for like months! But still nothing like what I see in these
pictures on the net. I use good genetics – mostly (Nirvana!) seeds now
since buying clones at first without knowing anything, and getting a pesky
spider mite issue that takes constant vigilance. Any advice? Reply
By Ryan on 12 March 2016

I live up in the north of Canada and its winter so very dry aswell but thats
not an issue since i dont clone or use clones i only use quality seeds from
herbies and have had awsome grows with this websites seeds, i use 2,
400w hps light for flower, and i also used em for veg for a bit but i found it
got too hot in my 5×5 tent even with -30 air going in (highest temp +40 at
one point so i took them out of the tent for flower because heat makes
buds airy like you described) so watch out for that, also the light your
using is apperently a very good 1 im goin to go with the 1200w mars 2
soon aswell so your lights are good, but your buckets are too small for
that light in my opinion, i use 5 gal buckets and when i harvest the roots
are almost taking up the whole bucket of dirt exept the 1 inch at the
bottom (your plant can only grow 2-3 times the amount of your root zone
so max your plant in a 1.3 gal bucket can grow up to double or triple the
hight of that bucket so consider upsizeing, i dont think co2 would be a
good idea unless you have 1000 watt hps lights (or equivelent) because
you need the max amount of light you can get for all that co2 to be sucked
up, alltho it will help a tad, also iv noticed if you do too many plants under
1 light the buds will be smaller because the lights being seperated
amongst the other plants so you loght i belive is good for a 3×3 areaso id
only put 4 plants not topped, lst’d manifolded or anything done to it just let
it grow naturally. Or 1-2 topped/manifolded plants maxx. I also should
mention i use advanced nutes ph perfect grow micro bloom for my base
nutes in promix hp along with senzizyme, tarantula, b-52 and since iv
switched to an eve tho most ppl hate me for it, its made my last harvest
florish i got just about a pound from 6 3ft tall plants manifolded to 8 colas
per plant i am switchin up my nutes next grow but not recommending
those nutes as i have not used em yet but those an nutes packed a punch
for bulking up buds but they were not as good as they couldve bin
because the temp was really high uring weeks 1-3 untill i could afford to
solve the problem but hope that helps you out (also look for stuff called
snow storm ultra or gravity that shits insaaaane for dense buds) and stay
away from miricle grow the time relesed ferts are horid and can wreak
havoc on your plants even there perlite is laced with that time relesed shit
i made that mistake my first grow and the buds tasted horible… Btw i use
nivana seeds aswell they have awesome seeds Reply
By Ryan on 12 March 2016

Should also answer your main question aswell you can never have too
much light aslong as your not getting light burn on your plants and that
700mars should be about 1.3 metres away from your canopy because of
the 190 degree reflectors on it
By Puc on 13 January 2017

We grow outside and I pinch my plants several times when young plants,
we used miricle grow our first year and had some awsome turnout. friends
couldn’t enough Tahoe. We are lucky enough to know a longtime grower
and grow facilities designer expert for all over Western States, and get
very high quality clones from them, This year Jack Herrer, girlscout, old
school, lemon haze, cherry cush and blueberry.. This year will get some
clones, but I also want to try seeds. Not so good second year, two humid
and huge buds that sweat. And diffidently too much nutrient
experimenting. Had fun, fun but studing more, but sur wish there were
more info on outdoor growing. Thanks so much for all intell.
By Brian on 16 March 2016

How many hours are on your light bulbs would be my first thought. Also I
would use 3 gallon pots instead of 1.5 gallon. You might be getting root
lock.
TIA,
Anom Reply
By detgrow on 6 November 2016

You need to increase the size of your pots for starters and it sounds as if
you might be over crowding them, all of the buds need to get lighting in
order to grow big and potent no more than 4 plants in that space and
ideally 10 gallon pots but 5’s will do also you could use 3’s but wont give
you the biggest harvest and use root extender through out grow, good
luck. Reply
By Mike hawkslong on 12 January 2017

Nirvana sucks brother. I’ve used ilgm and nirvana both and ilgm blew them
away in quality and production. You have more than enough light. But
with led you want to keep your light on temp around 85 and your humidity
around 40% I’d run beastie bloomz, and cha ching by Fox farm they will
increase alot. You should also see where your ph is at to make sure you
are not blocking out phosphorus. Reply
By Paul on 12 January 2017

I agree, all I grew were males and herms with Nirvana. I have only had 1
male and no Herms with ILGM seeds.
By janet on 13 January 2017

The bigger the pot the bigger the bud for the most part.. Genetics play a
role for sure, but if your pots are less than 3 gallon, you will not see big
buds Reply
By maine dave on 13 January 2017

spider mites must be rid of weeking plant whole tent needs to be cleaned
and room Reply
By Paul777 on 15 January 2017

Spider mites are a bugger to remove. Use neem oil & remove webs &
large old leaves.

They hate humidity.

After harvest, thoroughly clean EVERYTHING in your grow room, lights,
fans, pots, everything.

Quarantine bought/gifted clones for at least a week before putting near
other plants & grow room. They’re often the source of infestation. Good
luck.
By CarrieJane on 19 January 2017

Heat ..what’s your temp? Reply
By SLY on 10 March 2016

I remember my first grow it has to be at least 30 years ago and I
remember using a 250w HID MH/HPS light system and the seed strain
was Big Bud and back then it was all trial and error but big buds are what
I got, those buds were so heavy and huge that I had to tie these plants
and buds up to stand or the stalk would have broke off and the entire
buds would have went to waist.

So the answer to your question about using a 250w system is YES YOU
CAN USE A 250w SYSTEM and don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t. Reply
By Walli420 on 10 May 2015

Found your article very informative. I’m doing a LST now, but will try the
kola harvesting on my nest grow as I’m going to let them go naturally to
see what they can do. I am doing Island Sweet Skunk from Federation.. Reply
By Jennifer ILGM on 11 May 2015

Thanks Walli420, Keep us posted on the growth of your plants! Reply
By michelle triplett on 20 June 2015

Reply
I need something to make the buds on outdoor plants bigger.any ideas
By Mattman on 30 July 2015

I utilize the LST method of tying down the top and some of the stronger
side branches so that the main stem forms an “S” shape. This method
really opens up the interior of my plants, stimulating many nodes into bud
production that would otherwise not happen. The overall effect is that of a
beautiful SoG (Sea of Green) where the side branches grow as tall as the
top, creating this level plateau of green. Beautiful and easy to do without
cutting or topping. I get just as much bud if I were to prune, and bending
puts a lot less stress on the plants than cutting them. Reply
By Jennifer ILGM on 31 July 2015

Thanks for sharing Mattman!! Reply
By iloveweed on 13 September 2015

Reply
What are the best feeds to use along side golden tree to get huge buds ?
By latewood on 15 September 2015

What is Golden tree? I would recommend you joining our Support Forum
in order to find a wider range of answers. Reply
By Walter White on 6 October 2015

Below is the text from the above article:
SPEEDING UP BUD GROWTH

“Another way of saving and focusing your female plant’s energy is by
topping it. This is a form of pruning that requires you simply cut off the
topmost buds. You can take this bud home to cure and smoke already,
and in the meantime the remaining buds will grow even faster. Some
growers swear by this every year to achieve bigger and more potent buds
by the time the harvest rolls around.”
Is this article suggesting that I top my flowers? If so, how late in the
flowering stage (I am in week 6) and how far down the cola do I cut?
Please advise. Thank You!

WW Reply
By latewoodl on 10 October 2015

WW,
NO, not necessarily. I read it as suggesting an option. I would not take
buds unless my trichomes showed that the buds were finished. I think
what is suggested is that you can remove the kolas, and allow the rest of
plant to finish for another week or so. I also do not feel that the buds will
get that much bigger, but they do add a bit of weight. Reply
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By peteski72 on 3 February 2016

Most information we get here is good. I have to say that an important
missing point here is how the plant reacts after it is topped or trimmed
(pruning). Correct me if need be, but I was given a precaution before
pruning, whenever we start to change these babies it will slow it’s growth
for a week or two. I think this is a good point because to assess the stage
of flowering to determine the next steps along the way we might be over
doing expectation’s that after topping or whatever we shouldn’t be
expecting immediate growth, it will take time. Yes? I’m into my fifth grow
and I am curious why my girls aren’t larger. After the other grows I pull
them up to see where the root development is at. They are uniformly not
as developed as one would expect. I have kept good notes on all of these
and adjusted and tuned accordingly. Yet to slim avail. All in all yields are
pretty good and end results as well. I don’t want to be buying every
nutrient and much else. I learned it’s not worth it to keep throwing new
stuff into the mix ( this is one problem with many site ) they are basically
selling their products along with instructional information. I suppose keep
tuning in the basics is the way to go. Reply
By kid kodak on 2 September 2016

To peteski72 /: I’m an old farmboy and I’m not at all convinced that
cutting/pruning in any way “discourages” the plants from continuing their
established level of growing “enthusiasm”.

e.g. These are “weeds”, remember. Have you ever owned a house? Ever
tried to cultivate a lawn? Ever pulled the top off a dandelion? Or a
plantain? Or crabgrass? If you have, was your experience that the plant
“rolled over” and died?

Not likely. If anything, pruning renews the vigor of almost any plant. Read
any gardening book about getting the most out of your Lilacs, Petunias,
Geraniums, Begonias………ANYTHING. Pruning is a RECOMMENDED
method of ENCOURAGING growth. Reply
By latewood.ILGM on 5 February 2016

Whether or not; The plants growth slows down; You still should harvest by
the color of the trichomes.
In general, the statement you made was correct. Anytime you stress the
plant, you will see growth slow for a few days, while it heals itself. Reply
By stephen roberson on 10 March 2016
I have grown pot for close to 20 years the last 12 legally, and what I’ve
learned over the years is that those articles,photos of monster buds are
fine, but give me a break, I have used the same strain since 2005 ( I do
grow different strains with exceptional results) this strain produces small
dense tight heavy buds that are killer. If you have a great strain that
produce small tight killer buds clone and keep growing it. My strain is Pot
of Gold check it out, seeds are not cheap but well worth it. One more
thing after growing for many years I still have the passion and true
enjoyment I had when I started so go for it because you’ll enjoy the
process. Reply
By gary on 11 March 2016

How much wood ash to water ratio should i apply? Reply
By Gene on 11 March 2016

I would like to know the ash to water ratio. I check my soil nutrients a
couple of times, and would like to get to phosphorus level up a little more
for the budding stage . Reply
By Jhonny Blaze on 11 March 2016

Great advice…. Another cool way to make your plant become a bush is
FIMMING, If done right it can split into 3 or more new colas… Reply
By latewood.ILGM on 15 March 2016

gary and Gene,
1st let me inform you that wood ash also contains in higher levels
Potassium, Magnesium, and a small amount of Sulfur, as well as
Phosphorous.
It is recommended to add wood ash at no more than a 1/4″-1/2″ to top of
soil. You can blend it into soil before adding a plant. As far as Water to
wood ash ration. I do not believe the water makes any difference as long
as you can apply it evenly to your soil plants. Just make sure you
calculate how much you would use to keep it in the application range
mentioned above.
I recommend you all join our support forum for more discussion and
Reply
guidance on this topic. Happy Growing!
By Ralph on 16 March 2016

Where can I buy seed for upstate new York in the southern tiers moist soil
over 200 acreage to hide on soils not the any help Reply

Herbies. From G.B.. Thousands of strains. takes two to three weeks. Reply
By Ralph on 16 March 2016

Need to buy seeds Reply

Ralph,
Go to our Seed Shop and browse the quality selections. Choose a
payment method and, there you go Reply
By James on 13 January 2017

I have used nothing but Roberts seeds they always come within 2 weeks
only once was there a problem some came crushed and with 1 picture i
got new seeds more than i orderd think you ilgm i Will never. Buy seeds
from any where else6 Reply
By Bernie Kek on 16 March 2016

When should one stop misting the plants for fear of mold in the buds?Reply
I personally do not like to mist my plant unless it is a proactive measure

against disease or pests.
You definitely do not want to mist plants once they have developed buds.
Happy growing! Reply
By Betty C on 25 March 2016

I love the articles and purchased the bible a few years ago. I grow my own
medical marijuana since it’s not available in my state. I have limited space
and grow autoflowering plants, but I cannot get near the yields everyone
talks about. In a 2 gallon container, I am lucky to get about 1/2 ounce.
The quality is excellent but I would love a higher yield. I use espoma soil,
perlite and peat moss. I use light nuts ( FoxFarm ). What else can I do?Reply
By SunnySide on 18 January 2017

Aloha Betty C, I am finishing my 3rd Auto crop. I grow outside in Hawaii. I
can offer you my way of getting more product from Autos. As you know
they grow fast. So you must work fast and check them more often than
regulars. First, start with a good organic soil. Fox Farm Ocean blend or
their other one I can’t remember or Promix. Organic. They do not need
any nutrients.(unless they develope a deficiency in their short life hmm.
Good soil is enough. However, I do give them 1 tsp of Cal-Mag in 1 gal of
water and split it among the five. Make sure soil is not wet wet and not
bone dry. That’s the only thing in the nute thing. Why that? I have no idea.
Start them in the pot they will finish in. No pot/container smaller than 3
gal. I use 3 gal., easier to move if need. Give them as much light as
possible. I try to keep them in direct sunshine as much as possible and
that’s why I grow them in 3 gal pots. No transplanting. Never. I have
germinated in the plate and paper towel method and str8 in ground
method. No difference. Ground easier. If doing the paper plate method,
have pots ready before cuz they could pop in 12 hrs. Now for getting
Bigger Yields time. Top/fim as many times you can b4 they start to flower.
They grow so fast you may only get 1-2 chances. We all know the more
tops the more buds. My last grow, I waited and watched vigilantly and got
10- 12 nice sides branches and bud sites on almost all 5. Just don’t go
crazy on them. They need sun, water and good soil. You grow that
wonderful gift of nature like any other type, strain of plant just easier and
faster. Oh and PH the water, every time. Mine do well at above 6 below 7.
I hope I didn’t forget anything. Oops, my yields:

1st attempt. (Summer) 5 Blueberry x White Widow =2.4 oz’s total.

2nd (summer) Blueberry x W.W. 5 plants 4.3 oz’s. (I like this strain) I was
able to top more b4 it started to bud.

I just cut my grow of 5 of the same as above 2 weeks ago and they
weighed in a hefty, I kid you not, 11.2 oz. Trimmed. I hope u didn’t fall
asleep reading this and I was able to help. Autos are great, u can grow all
year so you have medication on hand. They have their own little eco
system houng on. Cool on that. Some breeds of seeds says 75-90 days til
harvest. All my seeds ( I got them from same place same time) took from
90 – no longer than 100 days after breaking ground. Autos are cool, quick
and easy. The biggest problem I had contradicts my “easy” statement,
harvesting and drying them. Harvest was everyday for 7-10 days. Drying
and curing, same thing. Label, label , label. 20-30 day cures and keep the
rotation all year if you can. You will have great years.

P.S. I also grow other Feminized strains inbetween my autos. Mixing it up
is the way to go.

Seeds by: ILGM, Nirvana, Herbies Reply
By wayne on 1 April 2016

Hi my name is wayne,i’m a pensioner
in australia would like to buy some seeds as i suffer from arthritis can you
garrentee that they will be deliverd as you can understand i’m a bit
sceptical.thanks wayne. Reply
By Gilly on 13 May 2016

No worry’s Wayne! They do as they say! Had mine in 9 days!!! (USA) Reply
By sean on 11 November 2016

Go for it Wayne! You have nothing to worry about, get you some and
relieve your pain. Reply
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When they say 64 days to flower does this mean from seed to start of
flower or from start of flower to harvest??? I’m growing in a 4′ x 4′ tent
with a air cooled tube light with a 400 watt HPS Bulb. (16″ from
canopy)Plants are 4 weeks old and about 6″ tall. I’m using Blue Mountain
Organic : GROW IT GREEN during the veg. state and FLOWER POWER
during the flowering state. (when the time comes) Also misting with a light
solution of the same nutrients a couple times a week. Anything else I can
do to improve the quality and quantity??? Thanks Gilly Reply
By latewood.ILGM on 7 May 2016

Sorry Gilly; I can only giver you a broad answer due to you not informing
us of what type seeds you are us

I generally consider 64 days yo finish the flowering time.
Happy growing.) Reply

I’m growing 4 AK-47 plants. Reply
By Jennifer ILGM on 12 May 2016

Reply
Gilly, keep us posted on your grow. We love to hear from fellow growers.

I just pinched the center growth last Sunday. I’m seeing very minor starts
of new stems. Some show signs of growth on 1 side so to speak and not
on the other? Is this common? How long before new stems will actually
be visible to the eye? Other than that, they will be 5 wks old come this
Saturday and they are 10″ to the tallest point from the dirt!!! Also, should I
be pinching growth elsewhere or just wait on these 4 new stems to get big
enough and then pinch those? They are bigger round than the buckets
are now. When seedlings I covered the stem with dirt every time they
grew a 1/2″ and all that then turns to root! My 1st branches are even with
the dirt! Keeps the height down even further! Reply

Is there a way to post pics??? Reply

Gilly,
Nothing is exclusively common when manipulating MJ plants. Perhgaps
when tou piched you left a bit of the kola to allow for growth in one area.
No one can tell you whether or not to pinch more tops. This is a matter of
you learning what you need to do in order to achieve the results that you
want. Join our support forum and after making a few posts and making
your self known to the community; You can start a topic or grow journal
and post piks Reply

Gilly,
I forgot to add that patience is the strongest virtue of a grower. I cannot
tell you how long it will take you to see more stems or “off shoots”. You
just have to nurture plant everyday and wait for results. This is how we all
learned. Happy growing. Reply
By Moose on 16 May 2016

I have a plant of unknown strain (bagseed) in week 1 flower about 9″
started in crappie MG soil and is in FFOF now. She is about 6 weeks old.
Since she was transplanted into the good soil, should I consider adding
nutes or leave as is? Ph is 6.6, temp is 68, unsure of humidity, using 2 x
23w soft white cfls Reply

Can’t post on the forum! Says not permitted to view requested
resource??? Reply

Gilly,
New members are not allowed to post until they read and respond to a few
posts. This helps keeps “bots” from joining and spamming the forum.
Better security. Reply

Good news, Good news!!! I can actually see growth at the pinch points
now!!! Not much but they are there for sure!!! Cool, Cool!!! Reply

Moose
If you just transplanted into fresh FOF; I would not advise adding anything
else for approx. a month. Plant will let you know when it needs a boost
from some bloom nutrients. Reply
By Allen on 21 May 2016

I am growing kimbo kush and it’s in about the 3rd or 4 th week of flowering
and all of my leaves have started turning light green to yellowish color not
just the main leafs but the sugar leaves around the flowers I just got a
600w hps air cooled light and put on them 2 weeks ago upgrade from 2
150w hps the 600w is around 10 to 12 in. Away from the tops could the
Reply
stronger light be causing the leaves to turn or is this a nutrition problem

Allen, you probly need ta move ur lights up to about 24″ from the canopy.
My 400W HPS is at 18″ – 20″ from the canopy. Keep a thermometer at
the same height as the canopy so u can monitor the heat at the canopy
level! Also u will need ta add some Phosphorus and Potassium during the
flower stage! Reply

Allen, how close is the light to the top of the canopy? With my 400 W HPS
light I keep it at 18″ – 20″ so with a 600W HPS you probly need ta keep it
right around 24″. You will need to add some Phosphorus during the flower
stage also! Reply
By Green on 23 May 2016

I have ak47’s in a small grow box. 2 weeks into flowering, but they grow to
high. They will reach the to before i

see any buds. How do i correct that? Reply
By Billz on 8 July 2016

Bend them over, be careful and roll the stalk in your fingers firat then just
bend it over. They bend stalks will right themselves and actually xreate
more budding sites.. Reply
By SIRV on 23 September 2016

How effective is worm castings in the complete growth cycle. I have
pounds from my worm bins Reply
By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016

Worm castings are a great amendment to add if you are building your own
soil.
Happy growing Reply
By Anthony Mandich on 10 November 2016

I find myself constantly taking leaves off of my plants. At least a couple
nearly everyday. Is this bad? Reply

Reply
At the end this is very normal. Also any leaves not getting light will yellow.

Anthony Mandich,
Why would you do that? The leaves are equivalent to the heart and lungs
of the plant. Without the leaves, photosynthesis cannot occur properly.

Good Luck Reply
By Drb on 15 January 2017

I think you are wrong about removing leaves. Yes , they are the solar
panels for the plant but in my experiences I have completely stripped
some of my plants down to just a few leaves once the budding has started
and I still had good harvests. I am sure stripping all the leaves is not the
best but removing enough leaves ( biggest, no smaller than 3″ leaves) so
the light can penetrate the canopy deeper is a good thing !! Reply
By sean on 11 November 2016

How much ash to use for one gallon hydro? Reply
By Phil on 17 November 2016

Spider mite infestation week 7 bloom, can I remove all large buds with
webbing, then shower plant without causing damage to remaining plant Reply

Phil,
Once you have developed a mite issue that has thrived to the point that
you see webbing; You plant is pretty much done.
For mites: You need to treat them early, and after grow; Tear down grow
area and wipe it all down and or soak everything in a weak bleach
solution.
To treat mites; I use Food grade CODEX Diatomaceous Earth.*
* You cannot use pool grade filter DE. It is not suitable for human or
animal consumption. Food grade CODEX DE is used a s afiller in foods
and can also be used as a multi-vitamin and to rid animals and humans of
parasites that are living in their digestive tract. Reply
sean,
You do not add ash to hydro. Ash would be an ingredient in compost;
Unless I misunderstand you.
Happy growing Reply
By trpoy hart on 28 December 2016

you are so closed minded i own my own home and business and love
Reply
growing marijuana so open your mind a bit and do not be so judgemental
By Robert Griffes on 12 January 2017

Have never heard of that but I will definitely give it a try. Reply
By Dianne Yonan on 12 January 2017

Splitting the plant sounds interesting. Would like to try this. Can I do this
on an auto? Reply
By latewood_ILGM on 16 January 2017

I would not advise this technique on an “auto”; However, you only have a
week left before harvest; So, y not try it! Reply
By Janice Bates on 12 January 2017

I cannot see how splitting the stems 3 days to one week before harvesting
could possibly have enough time to affect the plant to grow larger buds or
increase THC? Do you mean before flowering? Reply
By Robert Bergman on 12 January 2017

Hi Janice,
It’s a week before harvest. This techniques creates a lot of stress on the
plants. If you do it a few weeks before harvest your buds will ripen too
fast. Which results in a lower yield and less trichomes.
Robert Reply

Janice,
The article clearly states to use this technique a few days to a week before
harvest. Thanks for asking. Reply
By Charles Paulk on 12 January 2017

I loved the information on stem splitting. However I don’t remember it
being in the grow bible? I will go back and look . Just would like to see all
this great information in one book not several Reply

The grow bible is a beginners guide to a successful grow. If you follow the
direction in the grow bible you will succeed. Advanced techniques are
published in the blog, and discussed at our support forum Reply
By Kevin on 12 January 2017

Hi robert.. ive been growing now for about a year.. im gettin better every
harvest.. i really like your tips on how to be successfull at growing.. im
going to try the splitting of the stem this time.. keep up the great advice
and spreading the knowledge of cannibus growing.. i always resort to
your emails when having issues.. and no matter how good we growers
think we know it all. Theres always issues that arrise during a grow cycle..
thanks for your efforts and keep up the great advice Reply
By Fabrice Jarry on 12 January 2017

Hi Rob, I have split plants in the past, intentionally and my dog split one for
me unintentionally that’s the way I found out the plant was producing lots
more resin, the plant was split from tip to stem, and fell into two parts
growing along the ground, incredibly yielding 3.9lbs of massive sticky
buds. This plant was left alone, just watered. With other splits, I use a
paddle pop stick sharpened at one end and just poke it through the base
and leave it, does the same job, might try soaking stick in molasses and
see if there’s a difference. Thank you for the bible, it’s been very handy,
though I’d forgotten how to grow after 25yrs and living in Australia makes
it very difficult to grow,we are so backward here, guess it’s like riding a
bike. Thanks. Fab. Reply
By Jimbo on 13 January 2017

At what stage do you split the stem! Start of budding! Halfway thru! ???
Makes absolutely perfect sense in my experiences of growing so many
things for 35 plus years!! Reply
By Roy ILGM on 13 January 2017

Hi Jimbo, It’s a week before harvest. This techniques creates a lot of
stress on the plants. If you do it a few weeks before harvest your buds will
ripen too fast. Which results in a lower yield and less trichomes. Reply
By Kerry on 13 January 2017

Aloha! As you can see, i live in Hawaii, and grow nearly exclusively
outdoors. My experience with outdoor growing in HI began in the mid-
1970’s, at remote locations. For the past 5-6 years, i’ve been growing
legally and openly where i live. thanks to HI’s medical marijuana
provision. However, this presents unique problems: I live less than 100
yards from the ocean, on the windward side of my island, thus i have to
deal with salt air, and warmer temps/higher humidity than when i grew in
the interior decades ago. So i’m always looking for stains that can thrive
in these conditions. In essence, growing outdoors in HI means growing in
a micro-climate. I would value a recommendations of strains-particularly
Hawaii-originated hybrids. I have this question regarding stem-splitting:
what depth should the incision be? Am I to slice clear through the stem,
or? I have heard of “scrogging” before, as well as various methods of
stressing the plant to stimulate growth and potency. Thank you in
advance of receiving the grow bible, im sure it will help me be more
successful this season. Reply
By Brianne T on 13 January 2017

My first grow was with 2 gallon pots and they are not even close to being
big enough to support a plant. 4-5 gal root pouches are key for rootzone
health and overall plant vitality. I started to use 5 gal root pouches and my
plants are so much happier. I suggest you spend the $50 on Amazon for
the 10 pack of 5 gal bags. I use a 400w hps with ilgm seeds and I have
had an amazing %100 germination rate and incredibly healthy robust
plants. My last white widows from ilgm sprouted in 2 days and yielded 2
ounces dry per plant and my amnesia hazes were a bit more. I bought
seeds from seedssupreme and not a single plant sprouted out of 5 seeds.
Ilgm seeds are a sure be and I would recommend them to everyone. Reply

Good stuff Brianne! Thanks for sharing! Reply
By Bozlee on 13 January 2017

I ordered the high yield pack and 3 of 3 germinated and came out of the
ground on Xmas. They are very healthy and I will be ordering a different
strain today! I’m glad I trusted the cash by mail thing. It’s hard to have
trust in anything nowadays. Thanks Robert! Reply

Good to hear all’s well Bozlee. Happy growing! Reply
By Hempy on 13 January 2017

I love all the information, I learn something new every time I log in I
never can learn enough here keep up the great work Robert ,just an open
book of knowledge, thanks again Reply
By sean on 14 January 2017

Its better then going to any school, every time Robert sends some
information, there’s something that you will

Learn. I appreciate any tips that ilgm sends my way. Knocked over a lawn
chair, split a plant, stood the ww back up and had one huge cola the size
of two, two liter bottles. Lol Lol land weed, it was killer! Reply

Thanks for the love Hempy! Reply
By CRAIG on 14 January 2017

I have 2 Haze plants that are 10 weeks flowering. Looks good, but I also
have 5 plants of a mystery seeds in 10 weeks of flowering, they are some
signs of white hairs, and they are now 5 ft tall. No sign of any buds, the
question is ? Do some plants take more than 3 months flowering ? Reply

Yes they do. I find that most Indica plants finish in 8-12 weeks, and Sativa
12-16 weeks. I also find that length of veg cycle has a direct affect on
finishing time.
Happy growing Reply
By Richie on 14 January 2017

I am strictly hydro,can I still split the stems? I never did that before but will
try anything for bigger better buds. My next harvest is 3/11 so ill try
splitting on 3/5. I will let you know. Reply

Richie,
Method of growing is moot. Whether you grow in soil, soil-0less or hydro
Reply
By Ronald Reed on 14 January 2017

I am definitely going to try this this spring. I’ve lost all but two of my white
widows I ordered, I can’t keep up with the cold here in Maine, I will order
more this spring . Reply

Ronald. We hope you can find a way to grow indoors; After all; It is legal in
Maine now ! Reply
By Ricky Kidder on 15 January 2017

You didn’t say when to use you stem splitting technique. ? When the buds
start forming? Reply

Hi Ricky, Robert explains in one of the comments:

“It’s a week before harvest. This techniques creates a lot of stress on the
plants. If you do it a few weeks before harvest your buds will ripen too
fast. Which results in a lower yield and less trichomes.” Reply
By Hemp Invaders on 16 January 2017

I went for it and split the stem and placed a chop stick in there.. interesting
concept Reply

Hemp Invaders,
Perhaps you would like to join our support forum and share your results
with allk the friendly and knowledgeable members Reply
By Tony on 18 January 2017

I am starting my 2nd harvest soon. I used WW auto/fem from ILGM last
time and will use them again this time. I planted 4 plants in a 2×4 tent with
400 watt lights. last time I added 2 small uv lights to the tent. This time I
will only plant 2 plants and remove the 2 extra uv lights. Last time I had
two plants in 3 gal pots and 2 plants in 2 gallon pots. In the small pots the
plants produced very small buds. In the larger pots I got bigger buds, but
all four plants tasted green and nasty and the effect was bad. This time
the two plants I plant will be in 5 gallon pots. Last time I germinated in
paper towels and planted in cups then transplanted to pots. This time I will
plant and germ in the pots they will live in. I have the grow bible but I don’t
see a lot of info on growing autos. any other suggestions? Reply

Hi Tony, you can find more on growing autos here:
http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/autoflower-marijuana-basics/

And you can hop onto the support forum where our experts can help you
out with any questions. Reply
By Rv1157 on 22 January 2017

Hi, I’m growing unknown sativas. They’re in week 6 of flower. There
seems to be two distinct strains. On one strain the leaves are long and
thin, the other looks similar but the leaves are a bit wider and are
blooming later. Unfortunately I have both strains in one pot. Can I still
flush with water for two weeks without harming the other strain? I had no
idea I would have so many female plants. They’re about 4 feet tall in a 2 x
3 bedroom closet! Reply

Rv1157,
You made your bed, so to speak.
What you do to one plant will affect the other. So you weill have to allow
the faster plant to become more ripe before harvesting. It is always best
to have a solid plan and some insight into proper plant management
before you start too many seeds
Happy growing! Reply
By Coltfire on 27 January 2017

After reading this ,it is something I want to try, does this work on outdoor
In the ground plants? Reply
Coltfire,
Does what work? Plase do not ask a vague question. We are glad help
you if you inform us of what “this” refers to. Reply
By mike bolin on 8 February 2017

Thank you for the e-mail. There is such a vast treasure trove of info. I was
following you on you tube and purchased books and other things from
your site. Reply
By Roy ILGM on 13 February 2017

Awesome Mike, happy to hear we’re helping out! Reply
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How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds - 7 Tips

Home › Guides › Beginner Guides › Sexing, cloning and harvesting › How To

Send me a If you really want to maximize the

The limiting factor cycle. The leaves of the marijuana plant

Pruning tricks contain THC, but the buds of female

Outdoor Guides What are buds

Plant Care Guides

marijuana differences that distinguish the two.

Male buds vs. female buds

How To Grow Pictures powered by

Tip: make sure to download my free Grow Bible for more tips to increase

Remove yellow leaves

The best nutrients

Use only the best nutrients like Flower Power

Each nutrient behaves differently when it is in an environment at a different pH

dissolved completely. Once it surpasses the boiling point, however, it will

Wrong pH levels create nutrient deficiencies

At certain acidity levels, certain elements can’t be absorbed by the marijuana

A magnesium deficiency includes yellowing of leaves and even whitening, but

How to lower the pH

How to increase EC levels

More about EC/TDS in the article The right EC and pH levels

How much light

LED lights are not know for their high yields

a 5 x 5 x 8 ft grow room (with extra CO2 only)

Grow monster buds with CO2

CO2 ENRICHMENT USING REG & TIMER

Temperature and humidity levels

Proper humidity while growing

These are the best humidity levels to grow huge buds:

Veg week 1: 70%

The limiting factor

Light: 600 watt per 12 square feet

Pruning tricks to increase the yield

Before and after pruning useless bottom shoots

Scrog result after 2 months with 4 plants

LST or Low Stress Training

Train your plant for bigger buds

Harvest at the right time

Time of harvest affects the taste, smell and weight of your

0-49% of the pistils are brown – Not ready yet

The best genetics

Invest money in good genetics

Splitting the stem

Produce more THC

Harvest by looking at trichomes

Trichomes have the added bonus of serving as protectors of the marijuana

 How To Make Marijuana Clones Eating And Cooking With Marijuana 

Download the Ultimate Grow

How to get the biggest yields from

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