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590 www.lonelyplanet.com B R U N E I • • H i s t o r y 591

Brunei
BRUNEI 0
0
20 km
12 miles

Pantai Pantai
Meragang Muara
Bukit To Pulau Labuan
Shahbandar Empire Muara (35km)
(103m) Hotel MUARA Serasa Pulau Selirong
Pantai Brunei Brunei Bay
Sungai Basong International
Jerudong Park Airport
Playground Bandar Seri
Jerudong Park Begawan Sundar
SOUTH Medical Centre ai
ng i Bukit Lawas
Su ne Sale (218m)
Two things make Brunei famous: money and oil. If it wasn’t for the vast riches pumped out CHINA Tutong Kampung Bru

ὈὈ
Pantai Parit TEMBURONG
SEA Seri Kenangan Sinaut
in hydrocarbons every year, it’s doubtful whether this tiny nation would still be independ- Kampung Limau Manis Labu Trusan
Kampung Telisai Abang Limbang
ent; as it is, it remains an engaging anachronism, an absolute monarchy under Islamic law, Oil & Gas
Kuala Lurah Bangar Bukit Peradayan (374m)
Layong Bukit Patoi (374m)

Sungai Terusan
Discovery Centre Kampung

Te
maintaining its mild-mannered conservatism in the face of a changing world. Watching an

Su burong
Lumut Lamunin
Sungai Liang

m
ngai
Tasek Peradayan
Kuala Sungai Liang
entire country slowly come to terms with itself is a fascinating experience, and the ongoing Belait Seria
Forest Recreation
Merimbun Forest
Reserve
Park Kampung Batang Duri
saga of one sultan and his people is like a soap opera in itself. Kampung Kampung Merimbun

Sun it
Kuala Badas Sungai Mau

Bel
ὈὈ
Su Kuala Belalong
Baram

Sun
gai
ng

a
Luagan Lalak ai Field Studies Centre

gai
For many visitors Brunei is just a convenient stop and an extra stamp in the passport, Kuala Forest Reserve TUTONG Bukit Belalong

Li
Balai DSun (913m)

m
Su
am gai an

b
but for centuries this was the hub of the entire region, controlling the whole of Borneo and

ng
g

Tuton
it Labi Ulu Temburong

ai B
Wasai Wong Kadir National Park
territory as far away as the Philippines. The country’s culture and heritage are still deeply Miri Rampayoh

g
BELAIT

aram
Kampung
bound up in those proud times, and exploring its history is the best way to understand the Peat Swamp
Bukit Teraja
(442m)
Sukang
Forest
unique national character. Bukit Pagon

ὈὈ
Kampung
Melilas (1850m)

SARAWAK
None of Brunei’s sights are more than a couple of hours from the capital, but a car is Marudi

essential to reach most of them. There are some beaches and forest reserves that make MALAYSIA
Gunung Mulu
pleasant day trips, and with a little effort you can take river trips, climb some scenic hills, dip National
Park
SARAWAK

under secluded waterfalls, visit a traditional longhouse or immerse yourself in the pristine
rainforest of Temburong. Money and oil may not buy you happiness but, as Brunei proves,
if used wisely they may just produce something special.
HIGHLIGHTS
„ Speeding down the Sungai Brunei on a
water taxi to explore the stilt villages of
Kampung Ayer (p595)
„ Trekking though Brunei’s pristine tropical
rainforest in Ulu Temburong National
Park (p608)
„ Taking tea at the impossibly lavish Empire
Hotel & Country Club (p603)
„ Admiring the sunset flaring over the
golden dome of the Omar Ali Saifuddien
Mosque (p595)
„ Wandering agawp round the deserted
fantasy land of the Jerudong Park
BRUNEI
Empire Hotel & Country Club
Jerudong Park Playground
Sungai Brunei
Kuala Balai
MALAYSIA
History ceded to Sarawak in 1890, dividing the crip-
The earliest recorded references to Bru- pled sultanate into two parts.
nei’s presence relate to China’s trading In 1929, just as Brunei was about to be
connections with ‘Puni’ in the 6th cen- swallowed up entirely, oil was discovered,
tury, during the Tang dynasty. Prior to turning the tiny state into an economic
the region’s embrace of Islam, Brunei was power overnight. The present sultan’s fa-
within the boundaries of the Sumatran ther, Sultan Omar Saifuddien, kept Brunei
Srivijaya Empire, then the Majapahit Em- out of the Malayan confederacy, preferring
pire of Java. By the 15th and 16th centu- that the country remain a British protector-
ries, the so-called Golden Age of Sultan ate and the oil money remain on home soil.
Kampung Ayer & Bolkiah, Brunei Darussalam had become He’s credited with laying the foundations
Omar Ali Saifuddien
Mosque a considerable power itself in the region, for Brunei’s solid development.
with its rule extending throughout Borneo In 1962, in the lead up to amalgamation
and into the Philippines. with the new state of Malaysia, the British
The Spanish and Portuguese were the pressured to hold elections. The opposition
first European visitors, arriving in the 16th Ra’ayat Party, which wanted to keep Brunei
Ulu Temburong
National Park
century, but failed to make inroads by independent and make the sultan a consti-
force. In the early 19th century, the more tutional monarch within a democracy, won
subtle approach of the British, in the guise of an overwhelming victory. When the sul-
Sarawak’s first raja, James Brooke, spelled the tan refused to allow the new government

Playground (p603 )
„ Pounding sago, thatching palm leaves and
visiting skulls at Kuala Balai (p606)
„ POPULATION: 379,400
BRUNEI
end of Brunei’s power. A series of ‘treaties’ into power, an armed rebellion broke out,
was forced upon the sultan as Brooke con- supported by the Indonesian government.
solidated his hold over the town of Kuching. The uprising was quickly crushed with
In 1888 Brunei became a British protector- British military backing, and the ‘Abode
ate and was gradually whittled away until, of Peace’ has been under emergency laws
„ AREA: 5765 SQ KM
with a final dash of absurdity, Limbang was ever since.
 592 B R U N E I • • H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n 593

Saifuddien abdicated in 1967, leaving sultan to sack Jefri in 1997, but the damage Whatever its political waverings, Bru- couple of days, the city itself is unlikely to
the throne to his popular son and heir, had been done, and Brunei found itself with nei’s wealth still allows its citizens to enjoy inspire any great devotion. However, if you
Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. Early in 1984 the seriously depleted financial reserves. an unprecedented standard of living. Lit- take the time to relax and talk to the locals,
new ruler reluctantly led his tightly ruled Perhaps as a result of these factors, the eracy stands at 94%, average life expectancy you may find you start to understand what
country into complete independence from prevailing climate in Brunei today seems is 77 years, and there are pensions for all, makes this modest metropolis tick.
Britain. As a former public-school boy to be one of controlled reform as the sul- free medical care, free schooling, free sport
and graduate of Sandhurst Royal Military tan struggles to keep pace with the modern and leisure centres, cheap loans, subsidies Orientation
Academy, the sultan rather enjoyed British world. In 2004, the legislative council was for many purchases (including cars), short Central BSB is a compact grid aligned
patronage and the country still has close finally restored after 20 years of ‘emergency’ working weeks, no income tax and the roughly north–south and bounded on three
ties to Britain. law. So far the 29 incumbents are all royal highest minimum wages in the region. The sides by water: the Brunei and Kedayan Riv-
After independence, Brunei veered to- relatives or cronies, but the constitution sultan even marked his 60th birthday in ers on the south and west respectively, and
wards Islamic fundamentalism, adopting a has been amended to allow the council to 2006 by awarding civil servants their first a tidal canal on the east. In the city centre
national ideology known as Melayu Islam grow up to 45 members in the future, with pay rise in 20 years. Economic diversifica- you’ll find most hotels and places to eat,
Beraja (MIB). This insitutionalised dogma 15 of them elected by the public. In an- tion and new deep-sea explorations for oil banks, the bus station, airline offices and
stresses Malay culture, Islam and monar- other significant step, former radical leader aim to keep the cash rolling in, and as long shops. The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque,
chy, and is promulgated through the min- Muhamad Yasin Abdul Rahman, who was as it does, the people of Brunei should stay on the western edge of the city centre,
istries of education, religious affairs and once jailed for his part in the 1962 rebellion, happy with their lot. dominates the landscape. Most sights are
information. In 1991 the sale of alcohol has been allowed to form a new opposition within walking distance of, or a short bus
was banned and stricter dress codes were party, the National Development Party. National Parks & Reserves ride from, the city centre.
introduced, and in 1992 the study of MIB The mere mention of the words ‘elec- Brunei has one major national park and Between Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
became compulsory in schools. tion’ and ‘opposition’ must have brought several forest reserves. and the riverfront are two massive build-
In recent years signs have begun to the sultan out in a sweat, as he promptly Luagan Lalak Forest Reserve (p605; 2.7 sq km) A ings forming the Yayasan Sultan Haji Has-
emerge that Brunei is not the model state it hedged his bets by adding another clause small wetland zone 25km inland, south of Seria. sanal Bolkiah Complex. Usually called the
once was. The government has recognised a to the constitution stating that he ‘can do Merimbun Heritage Park (p605; 1.2 sq km) Centred Yayasan Complex, this huge shopping mall
relatively small but growing unemployment no wrong in either his personal or any on Brunei’s largest lake, this park, 27km inland south of leads to Jln MacArthur, across which are
problem, and disaffected youths have been official capacity’. Perhaps the sultan was Tutong, has trails and nature observation posts. waterfront cafés and the customs wharf for
blamed for isolated incidents of crime. The worried that his marriage to a 27-year-old Peradayan Forest Reserve (p608; 10.7 sq km) A sec- boats to Sabah and Sarawak.
most disaffected youth of them all, the sul- Malaysian journalist (technically his third tion of the Peradayan Forest Reserve in Brunei’s Tembu- Stilt villages sprawl along the opposite
tan’s younger brother Prince Jefri, became a wife – he’s still married to the first, and rong district; treks through the jungle lead to the summits bank of Sungai Brunei (Brunei River), and
byword for extravagance both in his private divorced his second in 2003) might have of Bukit Patoi (310m) and Bukit Peradayan (410m). along both banks of Sungai Kedayan to the
life and, rather more seriously, in his role as undermined his popularity. Either way, Ulu Temburong National Park (p608; 500 sq km) An northwest. Long, rickety-looking plank-
finance minister (see p604). Scandals and don’t expect to see Bruneians at a polling untouched expanse of forest, with trails and a canopy walk; walks connect them to the shore.
rumours of financial corruption forced the booth any time soon. accessible by boat only.
Information
BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN BOOKSHOPS
A RIGHT ROYAL FAMILY pop 50,000 Paul & Elizabeth Book Services (%222 0958; Lot
The Sultan of Brunei may no longer be the richest man in the world, but he does still have one If you’re expecting some kind of lavish 2.14-2.19 Yayasan Complex; h10am-10pm; i) Stocks
claim to fame: he is the present-day head of the world’s longest-running hereditary monarchy. mini-Dubai, think again – Brunei may the largest range of books and magazines, including a
The unbroken royal line goes right back to Sang Aji Brunei in the 14th century, and contains fancy itself as an oil state, but there’s no repository of ancient LP guides!
many revered names, such as Sharif Ali, a direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed; the nouveau-riche ostentation here, and the Wordzone Bookshop (%223 2764; Basement,
legendary Sultan Bolkiah, who presided over Brunei’s 15th-century Golden Age; and Omar Ali country’s capital is as polite and unassum- Yayasan Complex; h9.30am-10pm) Has a small range of
Saifuddien III, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah’s father. ing as its people, wearing its wealth almost periodicals and newspapers.
Of course, like all families, the House of Brunei has its less favoured relatives, and not all of prosaically in places. The most interesting
the current sultan’s 28 predecessors led such distinguished lives. Few people will remember buildings in the quiet centre, eg the main EMERGENCY
sultan number 11, for instance, one Abdul Jalilal Jabbar, who died in 1660 before he had even mosque and the bigger shopping malls, Ambulance (%991, 222 2366)
been crowned. Jabbar’s successor, Haji Muhammed Ali, might even have preferred obscurity: his certainly reflect the expenditure put into Fire (%995, 238 0402)
execution in place of his errant son earned him the posthumous nickname Marhum Tumbang them, but without much sense of flashiness, Police (%993, 222 2333)
Dirumput, ‘Revered Late Sultan Who Met His End on the Grass’. and on the whole there’s little to distin-
Of all the royal renegades, though, the prize has to go to the 22nd sultan, Muhammed Alam, guish BSB, as it’s usually known, from any INTERNET ACCESS
BRUNEI

who enjoyed the kind of reputation usually reserved for Mongolian warlords. Dubbing himself medium-sized city in Malaysia. You’ll have
the ‘King of Fire’, rumours abounded that the despotic Alam ate children’s livers to stay young, to head to the suburbs to start to see the
and even his own sister plotted to assassinate him. Finally realising his unpopularity, Alam sur- stupendous riches at play here.
rendered to his siblings and, given a choice of execution, opted to be publicly garrotted. With For most visitors, BSB forms the entirety
family like that, it’s a wonder the dynasty has made it so far! of their experience of Brunei, and while
there’s plenty to keep you occupied for a
BRUNEI
A2 Teen Cybercafé (1st fl, Yayasan Complex; per hr B$1;
h9am-10pm) Noisy gamers’ place.
Clique Internet (%242 2989; The Mall, Gadong; per hr
B$2; h10am-10pm)
LA Cybercafé (%222 5303; 2nd fl, Yayasan Complex;
per hr 80; h9am-9.30pm)
 1 Jln Lintang
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
594 B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n

BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN

A
INFORMATION
A2 Teen Cybercafe....................(see 5)
Australian High Commission........1 B5
Canadian High Commission.....(see 14)
French Embassy...........................2 C6
German Embassy.........................3 B6
B
Rupiah Express.............................9 C6
Standard Chartered Bank...........10 C6
Teck Guan Plaza......................(see 11)
Tourist Information Centre.......(see 25)
UK Embassy...............................(see 3)
US Embassy...............................11 C6
C
0
0
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Capital Hotel..............................19
Jubilee Hotel.............................. 20
KH Soon Resthouse....................21
Pusat Belia (Youth Hostel)..........22
Sheraton Utama Hotel...............23
Terrace Hotel.............................24
D
200 m
0.1 miles

D3
D4
C5
C4
C3
B2
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Netcom Computer House (%223 1563; Jln

MacArthur; per hr 50-B$1; h1pm-11.30pm)

MEDICAL SERVICES
Jerudong Park Medical Centre (%261 1433; www
.jpmc.com.bn; Jerudong Park BG3122)
RIPAS Hospital (%224 2424; Jln Tutong)
B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n 595

Some plankwalks head out from the shore

HSBC...........................................4 C5
Kompleks Jln Sultan...................(see 2)
into the nearest water villages, but these
areas are often the least favoured and most
rundown, inhabited mainly by low-income
immigrant workers who need to be able to
walk into work every day. Further out, only
accessible by water taxi, are the more trad-
Wordzone Bookshop.................(see 8) itional dwellings, which conceal all sorts of
EATING
MONEY shops and businesses. You might stumble

ὈὈ
Jln Simpang LA Cybercafé...............................5 B6 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf.............25 C5
Main Post Office..........................6 C4
Netcom Computer House............7 C6
Chinese Temple.........................12 C5
Freme Travel Services.................13 C5
DeRoyalle................................(see 25)
Gerai Makan............................. 26 D6
All banks in BSB charge a fee to cash travel- across a handicraft shop selling silverwork,
Paul & Elizabeth Book Services.....8 B6 Jasra Harrisons Travel................ 14 D6 Hau Hua....................................27 C6 lers cheques and to carry out credit-card ad- brass, woven cloth and baskets. If not, ask a
To Riverview Hotel (500m);
Mona Florafauna Tours............(see 36)
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque..... aja
Ter 15 A5
Ismajaya Restaurant...................28 C5
Nyonya Restaurant.....................29 B6
vances. ATMs are common in the city centre. boat operator to take you to one.
Taman Peranginan Tasek (1km); Jln
Brunei International Airport (4km); Royal Regalia Museum...............16 B4 PGGMB Building........................30 C5 There’s an ATM and a moneychanger at the Water taxis shuttle people back and forth
Hassanah Bolkiah National St Andrew's Anglican Church.....17 A2 Port View Café...........................31 B6
Stadium (4.5km); Taman Selera.............................32 B3
airport. between early morning and late evening,
2 Gadong (4.5km);
SLEEPING Tamu Kianggeh......................... 33 D5 HSBC (%224 2305; Jln Sultan) and congregate like schools of fish at the
Malaysia High Commission

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Brunei Hotel...............................18 C5
Rupiah Express (%222 1961; Britannia House, 1 Jln area next to the customs wharf. They also
Jln

ENTERTAINMENT
Jln
Ku

Hassanal Bolkiah Cinema........... 34 D6 Cator; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3.30pm Sun) Currency stop at various piers along the riverside
mb

To RIPAS Hospital (1km);

Pa

17 24
da
ang

Makam Di-Raja (2km); M Vision Borneo Theatre...........35 B6

exchange and regional money transfers. and villages. Wave frantically and they’ll
ng

Jame'Asr HB Mosque (3km); a

Jln Berit
Pas

Voctech International House (3km);

a

Standard Chartered Bank (%224 2386; Jln Sultan) come by and pick you up. They cost about
ng

Istana Nurul Iman (3.5km); SHOPPING

Taman Persianan Damuan (3.5km); Jln 23 Yayasan Complex......................36 B6
Pulau Ranggu (3.5km) 32 Ta
se
B$1 from BSB, but if you’re coming from
k
Jln Tutong La
m
a
TRANSPORT POST further up or down the river the cost is
Avis.........................................(see 23)

ὈὈὈ
Boats to Limbang.......................37 C6 Main post office (Cnr Jln Sultan & Jln Elizabeth Dua) about B$2.
Bus Station.................................38 C6 A boat tour in the early morning or
Jln

Customs Wharf......................... 39 C6
3
Su

Jln Kampung
TOURIST INFORMATION evening is highly recommended and, when
lta

Berangan Royal Brunei Airlines..................40 C5

hara
n

Water Taxis................................41 B6
Tourist information centre (%222 3734; wildlifea combined with a stopover near the sultan’s
enda

Sim dventure@hotmail.com; Post Office Bldg, cnr Jln Sultan & palace (p604), should take about an hour.
Jln B

pa 19
ng
2 Jln Elizabeth Dua; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8-11am Any water taxi can take you (look out for
& 2-5pm Fri) The private centre represents a number of boatmen making a circular finger-waving

ὈὈ
Lapau 22
16
(Royal Ceremonial Hall) different travel and tour companies, and you can book motion when they see you), and the stand-
a variety of excursions here. These range in price from ard rate is around B$10 per hour, though
B$39 per person for a three-hour city tour to B$180 for an bargaining is expected.
Dewan Majlis overnight rainforest camping trip. Despite the commercial
4 (Legislative Assembly)
setup staff are genuinely helpful and there are all kinds of OMAR ALI SAIFUDDIEN MOSQUE
h
Jln Sung

Jln James Kia ngge

Pearce pung
Jln Kam (free) brochures and maps available. They can also supply Occupying a good proportion of BSB’s

ὈὈ
20
the Explore Brunei guide, published by the government, compact centre, the Omar Ali Saifuddien
ai Kian

which contains useful information for visitors, including Mosque (%222 2623; admission free; h8am-noon,
ggeh

6
bus routes and ferry timetables. 1-3.30pm, 4.30-5.30pm Sat-Wed, 4.30-5pm Fri, closed to
Jln Stoney

Jln Elizabeth Dua

non-Muslims Thu) was commissioned by and
Jln Su

12 INTERNET RESOURCES named after Brunei’s 28th sultan, the father

www.tourismbrunei.com For more information on of the present monarch. It’s easily the most
ltan

Taman HJ Sir
15 Muda Omar Ali
Saifuddien
40 30 Brunei visit this official website. impressive building in this part of town,
5 especially when the setting sun flares in a
33

Lagoon
4
a
21
Sights red haze behind its golden domes and the
Jln Pemanch KAMPUNG AYER well-placed night lighting kicks in.
13 18
1 IBB 25 Housing an estimated 30,000 people, Kam- This grand mosque was built in 1958 and
Jln Roberts

Building To Arts & Handicrafts

28 Centre (500m);
Bukit Subok Forest
pung Ayer is made up of 28 water villages stands next to Sungai Kedayan in its own
Jln
27 Jln Cator Recreation Park (800m); built on either side of Sungai Brunei – explor- artificial lagoon. The 44m minaret makes it
29 P 35 9 Apek Utama Hotel (2km);
36
3 rett
y
38 Tomb of Sultan
Bolkiah (4km); Brunei
ing it is an interesting and often eye-opening the tallest building in central BSB, and woe
2
8 10
34 Museum (6.5km); Malay
Technology Museum (6.5km);
experience. A maze of wooden plankwalks betide anyone who tries to outdo it – appar-
BRUNEI

14

BRUNEI
5
11
Jln MacArthur
7 Indonesia Embassy (8km);
Muara (25km);
connects brightly painted shacks to shops, ently the Islamic Bank of Brunei building
6 Singapore Embassy villages to schools, clinics to workshops, and nearby originally exceeded this height, and
31 41 39 Jln
26
Res
ide
ncy
floating petrol stations to fire houses on stilts. consequently had to have its top storey re-
37
Kampung Ayer A traditional way of life continues in these moved by order of the sultan. Listen for the
(Water Villages)
prefab huts, even if many now have modern call to prayer that echoes throughout the city
Sungai Brunei plumbing, electricity and colour TVs. centre, starting before dawn or at dusk.
 596 B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n
The interior is simple but tasteful, though
it’s no match for the stunning exterior. The
floor and walls are made from the finest
Italian marble, the stained-glass windows
were crafted in England and the luxurious
carpets were flown in from Saudi Arabia
and Belgium. Jigsaw enthusiasts can admire
the 3.5 million–piece Venetian mosaic in-
side the main dome. The ceremonial stone
boat sitting in the lagoon is a replica of a
16th-century mahligai (royal) barge.
The external compound is open between
8am and 8.30pm, and non-Muslims may
enter the mosque itself outside prayer times.
Remember to dress appropriately and to
remove your shoes before entering. You
may also be able to take the elevator to the
top of the minaret or walk up the winding
staircase (ask permission from staff first).
The view over the city and Kampung Ayer
is excellent.
BRUNEI MUSEUM
Situated 6.5km east of the centre, overlook-
ing the Sungai Brunei, the Brunei Museum
(%222 6495; Kota Batu; admission free; h9am-5pm
Sat-Thu, 9-11.30am & 2.30-5pm Fri) is BSB’s main
cultural complex. Combined with a visit to
the Malay Technology Museum (right), it’s
definitely worth the short trip from town.
The Islamic Arts gallery on the ground floor
is arguably the highlight of the museum, dis-
playing a rich collection of ceramics, jewel-
lery, silverwork and weaponry from across
the Islamic world. The illuminated Quran is
superb, and there are plenty of unexpected
treasures such as ornamented padlocks.
There’s certainly nothing to rival it in South-
east Asia; although if you’ve ever visited the
Middle East you may be less impressed.
Next door, the Oil and Gas gallery is hardly
enthralling, but offers worthwhile insights
into the source of Brunei’s modern wealth.
There are interesting models of different oil
rigs and the oil extraction process.
Upstairs, the museum has displays of
artefacts representing the cultural heritage
of Brunei from prehistory up until 1929,
including musical instruments, baskets
BRUNEI
and brassware, and a large collection of
Chinese ceramics. The accompanying text
outlines the eventful history of the royal
line, with quite a few intriguing factoids on
lesser-known rulers (see boxed text, p592).
A natural history section features exhibits
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of mounted mammals, birds and insects,
while the semipermanent Sunken Treasures
exhibit uses a more modern interactive ap-
proach to examine the region’s shipwrecks
and their cargoes.
Purple buses 11 and 39 pass the museum
(B$1); passing cars may give you a lift but
many will ask for money. Otherwise, it’s
a bit of a walk from town. After visiting
the museum, you can walk down the steep
bank to the Malay Technology Museum.
MALAY TECHNOLOGY MUSEUM
Built on the edge of the river below the Bru-
nei Museum, the Malay Technology Museum
(%224 4545; admission free; h9am-4.30pm Sat-Thu,
9-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm Fri) has three galleries of
model reconstructions depicting traditional
lifestyles and artisans. It can be a little dif-
ficult to take the life-sized mannequins seri-
ously, and some of the English captions are
hilariously bad, but the recreated buildings
and homesteads are interesting if you don’t
have a chance to see the real thing.
Gallery 1 features water villages and in-
cludes reconstructions of how kampung
(village) architecture has evolved over the
last 150 years. Gallery 2 has exhibits of
handicrafts and fishing techniques practised
by the people of the water villages. Gallery 3
shows the tools and techniques used by the
indigenous tribes of the interior for food
gathering, agriculture and hunting.
ROYAL REGALIA MUSEUM
If you want a glimpse of how the other
0.1% lives, the Royal Regalia Museum (%223
8358; Jln Sultan; admission free; h8.30am-5pm Sat-Thu,
9-11.30am & 2.30-5pm Fri) showcases some of the
glittering riches that come with the cov-
eted post of ‘world’s richest monarch’. Half
museum, half hagiography, the collection
includes numerous photographs of His
Majesty the sultan and other members of
the royal family. However, it’s the panoply
of priceless artefacts that grab the attention,
from coronation furniture and jewelled
costumes to a wide selection of stupen-
dously pointless gifts from fellow heads of
state and other dignitaries (we’re guessing
the big gold platters got better thank-you
notes than Colin Powell’s pitiful General
Grant figurine). It doesn’t take long to get
regalia fatigue, but the huge dragon carriage
in the main atrium is a sight and a half.
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Visitors must remove their shoes be-
fore entering. Guides are available to talk
you through everything, though the sultan
might not appreciate being referred to as
‘chubby’ in his younger days!
ARTS & HANDICRAFTS CENTRE
Built to help develop local craftwork, the
Arts & Handicrafts Centre (%224 0676; Jln Kota Batu;
admission free; h8.30am-4.30pm Sat-Thu, 8.30-11.30am
& 2-4.30pm Fri) is on the waterfront towards
the Brunei Museum, visible from town
and within easy walking distance. While
the concept of such a centre is a marvel-
lous idea, it’s a little disappointing if you’re
interested in traditional crafts; only new
silverwork and weaving produced by the
students are available and some items are
very expensive. A traditional Muslim cap
costs about B$15, fabrics start at B$50, and
silverwork and woodwork can run to thou-
sands of Brunei dollars for intricate pieces.
It’s more interesting to visit the workshops,
though there’s not always a lot of activity. If
you’re really serious about investing some
cash, you can pick up a Directory of Handi-
craft Entrepreneurs here. The centre also
has a shop outlet in BSB airport.
PARKS
Just past the Arts & Handicrafts Centre,
the Bukit Subok Forest Recreation Park is a
wasteland rehabilitation project run by the
Forestry Department, occupying a small
hillside expanse of pines and secondary for-
est with an info hut, several viewing decks
and an ‘environmentally friendly’ walkway
running through it. There are good views
from the top of the hill, and you can also
visit the gabled Twelve Roofs House (Bumbungan
Dua Belas; admission free; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat,
9am-11.30 & 2.30-4.30 Fri), the former residence
of the British High Commissioners, which
now displays photos illustrating British in-
volvement in Brunei and the ‘special rela-
tionship’ between the two countries.
Further out on the north side of town,
Taman Peranginan Tasek is a more extensive
green zone with picnic areas, and peace-
ful walks to a small waterfall and reservoir.
If you’re lucky, you may get a glimpse of
proboscis monkeys in the early morning
or late afternoon. The falls are nicest in the
wet season, when the water is deeper. You
can swim here but women should remem-
B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n 597
ber that the usual rules of modesty apply;
T-shirts and shorts are OK. Another road
by the gate leads to a 15-minute uphill walk
to a view over the reservoir.
To get here, walk north along Jln Tasek
Lama past the Terrace Hotel and turn right
after two sets of traffic lights. It’s about 1km
to the falls from the entrance gates by the
car park – continue past the flowerbeds and
picnic tables, then follow the stream. The
Sheraton Utama Hotel can provide a map
showing the park walks.
OTHER SIGHTS
About halfway between downtown BSB and
the Istana Nurul Iman (p604) is the Makam
Di-Raja (Royal Mausoleum), overlooking the
river. This is the burial place of the last four
sultans; other members of the royal family
are buried in the grounds.
On the other side of town, on the way
to the Brunei Museum, is the Tomb of Sultan
Bolkiah, the beloved fifth sultan of Brunei,
who lived from 1473 to 1521, during a pe-
riod when Brunei was the dominant power
in the region. The small tomb and garden
are in the historic setting of Kota Batu and
the view across the river is nice, but unless
you’re particularly devoted to the man him-
self it’s a very minor attraction.
There’s also a brightly painted Chinese tem-
ple (Jln Elizabeth Dua & Jln Sungai Kianggeh) – it’s a
busy place on Saturday evenings, and Chi-
nese opera is sometimes staged here. Also of
interest is the charming little blue-painted St
Andrew’s Anglican Church (Jln Haji Basir), a wooden
building that has services in various lan-
guages, including Iban.
Activities
The Hassanal Bolkiah National Stadium (%238
0700; Jln Berakas; h8am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm) is of
Olympic proportions and includes a ten-
nis centre, track-and-field complex, squash
courts and swimming pool. It’s open to the
public and prices to use it are reasonable.
The pool is often nearly deserted. The sta-
dium is 5km north of the city; to get there,
take purple buses 1 or 34.
BRUNEI
Brunei has three golf courses close to BSB.
Green fees range from B$120 to B$150 on
weekdays.
Mentiri Golf Club (%279 1021; Jln Pengkalan Si
Babaunear) International standard golf course northeast of
BSB on the shore near the mouth of Sungai Brunei.
 598 B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n
Empire Golf & Country Club (%241 7815; www
.empire.com.bn) Waterfront golf course designed by Jack
Nicklaus, in the grounds of the luxurious Empire Hotel.
Royal Brunei Recreation Club (%234 3724;
Lebuhraya Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah) Driving range near
the airport north of BSB city centre.
Some tour operators run dive trips to a few
spots in the area, but you’re better off sav-
ing your money for the islands off Sem-
porna in Sabah.
Tours
In the city centre there’s a host of travel
agencies where you can book flights and
local tours; many operate out of the tourist
information centre as well as their own of-
fices. The larger the group, the cheaper the
rates, and a minimum of two people usually
applies. River safaris and half-day tours of
BSB start at B$30 per person, and a range
of trips into the countryside cost from B$50
to B$100 per day. Agents also offer evening
trips to Jerudong Park Playground, the sul-
tan’s palace and other outlying attractions,
though you may also find locals willing to
take you for a much cheaper price.
If you’re taking advantage of the 72-hour
Brunei transit visa (see p611), Royal Brunei
Airlines (%221 2222; www.bruneiair.com) offers 1½-
to four-hour excursions specifically aimed
at stopover visitors, starting at B$25 for a
coach seat or B$100 for a private tour.
Major tour operators in the city include
the following.
Freme Travel Services (%223 4280; www.freme
.com; 403B-407B Wisma Jaya, Jln Pemancha) Offers a
variety of tours, including the city and Kampung Ayer, and
trips to Ulu Temburong and Pulau Selirong.
Jasra Harrisons Travel (%224 2911; jasratvl@brunet
.bn; cnr Jln MacArthur & Jln Sungai Kianggeh) A good gen-
eral travel agency, and the sales agent for British Airways
and Qantas; it also organises trips to Ulu Temburong.
Mona Florafauna Tours (%222 30761; mft@brunet
.bn; Block A, Yayasan Complex) Specialises in outdoor and
wildlife tours around Brunei.
Sunshine Borneo Tours & Travel (%244 6509;
www.exploreborneo.com; No 2, Simpang 146, Jln Kiarong)
Runs tours of the city and further afield in Brunei and the
BRUNEI
rest of Borneo.
Festivals & Events
National Day (23 February) Parades and processions
in downtown BSB to celebrate Brunei’s independence.
Rehearsals begin weeks in advance.
Book accommodation online
w w at
w .www.lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
Royal Brunei Armed Forces Day (31 May) Parades
and dramatic military displays in central BSB and other
districts.
Sultan’s Birthday (15 July) A lively event marked by
fireworks, processions and yet more parades in downtown
BSB and around Brunei.
Hari Raya Aidilfitri (Variable timing, based on Islamic
calendar) Probably the best time to visit Brunei, when
feasting and celebration mark the end of Ramadan, and
the sultan’s palace is open to visitors.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Budget prices in Brunei are more like mid-
range options in the rest of Malaysia, and
there’s only one truly ‘cheap’ option in
town.
Pusat Belia (Youth Hostel; %222 2900, 8765515;
Jln Sungai Kianggeh; dm B$10; as) No back-
packer comforts here: this is the kind of
classic youth hostel that should remind you
of school trips or summer camps, and still
caters for exactly that kind of local clientele.
The single-sex four-bed bunk rooms are
basic but adequate, with rather flaky shared
bathrooms; reception is only sporadically
staffed, but hang around and someone
should find you. And no, that icon’s not
a misprint – the youth centre really does
have its own swimming pool (B$1, open
9am to 7pm).
Apek Utama Hotel (% 222 0808; Simpang
229, Jln Kota Batu; r B$30; a) If you’d rather have
value, value, value than location, location,
location, consider the Apek, widely tipped
by travellers as the best budget deal in BSB.
Friendly staff, bright, cosy rooms and a TV
lounge give it good guesthouse appeal not
found elsewhere. The hotel’s about 2km
east from town along Jln Residency, on the
way to the Brunei Museum; purple bus 39
goes right by. Once you’re settled, the best
way to get back and forth to town is by
water taxi.
KH Soon Resthouse (%222 2052; http://khsoon
-resthouse.tripod.com; 140 Jln Pemancha; s/d B$35/39,
with shared bathroom B$30/35; a ) It’s quite a
step up in price from the hostel to this
simple Chinese-run place, but you don’t
get a whole lot for your extra 20 bucks
apart from more space, better service and
plenty of local information. Still, it’s the
only other budget option anywhere near
the centre, and the bus station’s almost
right opposite.
Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com
Voctech International House (Seameo Voctech;
% 244 7992; www.voctech.org.bn; Jln Pasar Baharu
Gadong; s/d B$40/50; ai) This educational
centre runs conferences and hosts overseas
groups, but also welcomes leisure travel-
lers. The staff are helpful, each room has a
TV and IDD phone, and there’s an on-site
cafeteria. Voctech is 4km from the centre,
right by the Gadong shopping district and
accessible by bus 22.
Capital Hotel (%222 3561; 7 Simpang 2; r B$50;
a) Tucked away behind the youth hostel
near the main Chinese community area, the
Capital has a lovely trellised patio area out
front but sadly not so much to recommend
it inside. That said, you do get TV, phone
and hi-fi with the dated décor, and if you
want a kitchenette it’s not a bad choice.
MIDRANGE
If you’re watching the pennies, the jump
from budget to midrange accommodation
can seem pretty brutal, though at least all
rooms have air-con, TV, hot water and IDD
phones.
Terrace Hotel (% 224 3554; www.terracebrunei
.com; Jln Tasek Lama; r B$60-80; ais) A real
bargain in Brunei terms: the influence of
the Sheraton next door must have rubbed
off, as this smart tourist hotel is efficient
and immaculate even compared to its ri-
vals at this price point. Marble bathrooms,
fridges, wireless internet, a fitness centre, a
snooker hall and a restaurant all conspire to
upstage the refreshing pool.
Jubilee Hotel (%222 8070; www.jubileehotelbru
nei.com; Jln Kampung Kianggeh; r B$70-154; ai) For
a rectangular block the seven-storey Jubilee
Plaza seems to have some remarkably irreg-
ular rooms, but the in-house supermarket
and Thai restaurant should distract from any
geometric quirks. Apparently it’s often full
with Ministry of Health workers waiting for
their government houses to be built! Break-
fast and airport transfers are included.
Traders Inn (%244 2828; tradersinn@brunet.bn; Lot
11620, Jln Gadong, Gadong-Beribi; r B$80-120; ai) If
you want to stay out of the centre, this small
business hotel is usefully located within
easy reach of the Gadong shops; it has its
own coffee lounge.
Riverview Hotel (%223 8238; rivview@brunet.bn;
Km 1, Jln Gadong; r B$88-155, ste B$170-270; as) Also
out towards Gadong and the airport, the
Riverview has top-end facilities seemingly
B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n 599
on permanent promotion, making it envi-
able value. The building has a tinge of Islamic
style, and the poolside steamboat restaurant
is a great touch. Rates include breakfast.
Brunei Hotel (%224 2372; www.quanix.com/busi
ness/bruhotel; 95 Jln Pemancha; r B$176-220, ste B$242-440;
ai) Hovering at the upper end of the
midrange, the Brunei is an earnest business
hotel handily set in the centre of town. Huge
humidifiers and slightly mentholated air-con
help you breathe, and you even get a minibar
(dry, of course). Discounts may be available.
TOP END
BSB has a good selection of top-end hotels,
although the midrange accommodation is
perfectly adequate. For the extra money
you can take advantage of added luxuries
such as golf courses, sports centres and
theatres.
Centrepoint Hotel (%243 0430; www.arhbrunei
.com; Centrepoint Shopping Centre, Gadong; r B$235-265,
ste B$335-1650; ais) The premier tourist
hotel in the Gadong district is much more
sophisticated than you’d expect for some-
thing built into a shopping mall, boasting
a scarily comprehensive range of salon and
sports facilities as well as slick top-end
service.
Sheraton Utama Hotel (%224 4272; www.sheraton
.com/utama; Jln Tasek Lama; r from B$240; ais)
Brunei’s only Western chain hotel flies the
flag for international standards on the edge
of the town centre. Amenities are rife, and
the lounge bar has live music on Saturday,
a rare treat in BSB. Discounts can knock off
up to B$100 at weekends.
Eating
Most hotels in BSB have their own restau-
rants, and there are places in town to suit
every budget. However, as most locals live
outside the centre, suburbs such as Gadong
can be much livelier at night.
CAFÉS
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf (%222 0589; www.coffeebean
.com; Lot 36, 67 Maya Puri Bldg, Jln Sultan; dishes B$2.80-
7.50; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Another entry
BRUNEI
in the highly successful Malaysian chain,
propagating Western coffee-house culture
right down to the wi-fi internet and board
games. If you’re getting sick of kopi (coffee
with condensed milk), just try the choc tof-
fee ice-blended latte.
 600 B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n 601

Port View Café (%223 1467; Jln MacArthur; mains air-con retail and leisure space, and also act
THE AMBUYAT EXPERIENCE B$7-10.50; hlunch & dinner) Not the most origi- as social centres.
Brunei hasn’t made many contributions to world cuisine, but the country does have one rather nal name, but sure enough, the split-level There are numerous photo-processing,
distinctive signature dish: ambuyat. Made from the pith of the sago tree, which is ground to a Port View does indeed gaze out over the camera and film shops in the shopping
powder then mixed with water, this glutinous mass was apparently popularised during WWII, water towards Kampung Ayer. The down- malls in the city centre and at Gadong,
when the Japanese invaded Borneo and took control of the paddy fields. Cut off from their vital stairs café menu includes simple Western, though if you have any special require-
rice supply, Bruneian villagers resorted to traditional sago processing, adding a selection of ac- Chinese and Malay dishes, while upstairs is ments you should stock up before you come
companiments such as sambal (spicy chilli and shrimp mix) to leaven the lack of taste. a little more expensive and features Thai, to Brunei. There’s no advantage in buying
Ambuyat is still available in Brunei restaurants, served in big globs with plenty of dips, and Chinese and Japanese food. duty-free in Brunei, since you will get far
eaten quickly with chopsticks before it really congeals. If that description hasn’t put you off, the Fratini’s (%245 1300; Centrepoint Shopping Centre, more for your money in Malaysia.
food court in the PGGMB building (%222 3120; Jln Sungai Kianggeh) is a good place to give it a Gadong; mains B$10-30; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
go. Sets start at B$4. Brunei’s first-ever Italian restaurant has Getting There & Away
10 years of service behind it and can still AIR
dish up the goods, attracting a keen crowd Royal Brunei Airlines often has promo-
DeRoyalle (%222 0257; Maya Puri Bldg, 38 Jln Pasar Gadong (Lr Sultan, Gadong) Brunei’s most of local and expat Med-heads. tional fares out of BSB, though, in general,
Sultan & Jln Pemancha; dishes B$3.90-6.50; h 24hr) famous night market, Pasar Gadong is a The various hotels in BSB also have lots international routes may be cheaper if
Crammed in next door to the Coffee Bean, bustling marquee of munch parked near the of restaurant choices. For a special treat, bought through travel agents.
DeRoyalle promises ‘no gimmicks, no rip- big shopping centres in Gadong. Vendors try afternoon tea (B$16.50) at the luxurious
offs’, going for a British expat flavour rather offer every cooked comestible imaginable, Empire Hotel (see p603). Airline Offices
than the Starbucks vibe. For our money the from satay and barbecued fish to chicken Airlines flying into Brunei and with offices
food’s better here, particularly the break- wings and kueh melayu (sweet pancakes Entertainment in BSB:
fasts and Swedish meatballs, but the coffees filled with peanuts, raisins and sugar), Brunei’s capital isn’t exactly the best place British Airways & Qantas (%222 5871; www
are half the size. though quality varies widely. Annoyingly for night owls to stay restless, but there’s .britishairways.com) For ticket sales, contact Jasra Harri-
MRSA Bridal Café (%887 0009; The Mall, Gadong) there’s nowhere to sit, so you will either no need to go to bed at sunset either. Most sons Travel (%224 2911) on the corner of Jln MacArthur
Now this is what we call a concept café – have to eat on your feet or take your grub locals skip the centre and head for the big and Jln Sungai Kianggeh.
whoever thought of combining coffee and elsewhere. shopping malls in Gadong, where there are Malaysia Airlines (%222 4141; www.malaysiaairlines
cakes with suits and wedding dresses must The large Hua Ho Supermarket (%223 1120; plenty of cafés, arcades and the Mall Cineplex .com; Maya Puri Bldg, 38-39 Jln Sultan)
either be a born romantic or a surrealist Yayasan Complex; h10am-10pm) is a good place (%242 2455; tickets B$4-8). In the absence of al- Singapore Airlines (%224 4901; www.singaporeair
genius. If you’re not already engaged, you for self-catering. cohol, you could even treat your body to .com; Maya Puri Bldg, 38-39 Jln Sultan)
may well be by the time you leave. a break and go for some evening pamper- Thai Airways (%224 2991; www.thaiair.com; 4th fl,
RESTAURANTS ing: the Goodvibes Mindspa (%242 1913; www Kompleks Jln Sultan, 51-55 Jln Sultan)
FOOD COURTS & MARKETS Ismajaya Restaurant (%222 0229; Jln Sultan; dishes .goodvibesbrunei.com; K3, Kampung Pengkalan Gadong)
Informal eating is the cornerstone of central B$1-4; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) One of several specialises in flotation tanks and ‘mind ma- BOAT
BSB’s food scene, and every major shop- simple cafeterias in the central area serving chines’, while the Amanha Spa (%233 7575; Apart from flying, the most convenient
ping centre has its own air-conditioned quick, inexpensive Malay and Indian meals, Orchid Garden Hotel, Simpang 9, Jln Berakas) goes for way to travel between Brunei and Sabah or
food court. Wisma Setia, the Yayasan Com- coffee and roti canai (flaky bread). more-traditional massage and treatments. Sarawak is by boat. Boats to Lawas (Sarawak)
plex and Gadong’s Mall shopping centre are Hau Hua (%222 5396; 48 Jln Sultan; dishes B$2.50- In the centre, the Hassanal Bolkiah Cinema and Pulau Labuan (for connections to Sabah)
some of the larger specimens. 12; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) As if the extensive (%222 0840; Jln Sungai Kianggeh; tickets B$3-6) and leave from the ferry terminal (%277 3071) at
Gerai Makan (Jln MacArthur; dishes 70-B$4) This menu of excellent Chinese dishes, clay- M Vision Borneo Theatre (%223 6316; Jln Roberts; Muara, 25km northeast of BSB. Numerous
waterfront food centre is a great place to pots and steamboats wasn’t enough, Hau tickets B$5-6) show a mix of English-language express boats go between Muara port and
chow of an evening, with views over Kam- Hua (watch that spelling!) is one of the and Bollywood movies. Pulau Labuan (economy/1st class B$15/18,
pung Ayer and water taxis bombing past few places in Brunei that serves pork, has one hour) between 7.30am and 4.40pm.
every couple of minutes. daily changing specials and set menus, and Shopping Departures from Labuan (RM24/30) are
Taman Selera (Jln Kumbang Pasang; dishes B$1-8) even rotates its selection of fresh juices and Shopping is a pastime in itself in Brunei, between 8.30am and 4.30pm. Extra services
Another very popular night-time food spot, herbal drinks. Friday is mung-bean juice and you could spend days browsing the may be added at weekends and on pub-
offering everything from burgers and noo- day. Nice. air-conditioned plazas, though there’s little lic holidays. A boat leaves daily for Lawas
dles to seafood and traditional Muslim Nyonya Restaurant (%223 1236; Yayasan Com- of specific interest to visitors. The snazzy in Sarawak (B$10, two hours) at 11.30am.
dishes (halal, curries etc). The ‘smooters’ plex; mains B$6.80-18.80; h lunch & dinner) The Yayasan Complex has a dazzling selection of Boats leave from Lawas (RM25) for Muara
(B$2) at stall 4 are a damn good approxima- wide-ranging menu and bistro-style air- ritzy shops selling watches, sunglasses, Ira- at 7am daily. An express bus between town
BRUNEI

tion of a real ice-cream milkshake.
Tamu Kianggeh (cnr Jln Sungai Kianggeh & Jln Pe-
mancha) Good snack food can also be found
at the local food market, across the canal.
It’s not very extensive but has plenty of local
colour and is a popular spot for lunch.
con chic accentuate the appeal of this new
place on the Yayasan’s central courtyard.
As well as steak, soup, sandwiches, sea-
bass, Indian, Chinese and Malay dishes,
there’s a good-value selection of pasta (B$3
to B$7.80).
nian chandeliers and other essentials. It also
houses franchises like the Body Shop.
However, the main shopping district is
at Gadong, about 4.5km west of the city
centre. The giant Centrepoint and The Mall
complexes are vast expanses of wall-to-wall
BRUNEI
and the terminal costs B$2.
Speedboats to Limbang (B$10, 30 min-
utes) leave between 6am and 6pm from the
customs wharf at the end of Jln Roberts in
BSB and depart when full, which means you
could be waiting a while.
 602 B R U N E I • • B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n
For the Temburong district, speedboats
go between BSB and Bangar throughout the
day (B$6, 45 minutes). The first departure is
around 7am and the last at 5pm; boats leave
(when full) from the jetty near the Gerai
Makan. Road transport from Bangar can
take you to Sarawak (see p607).
BUS
Brunei’s main highway links BSB with
the town of Kuala Baram in Sarawak via
Seria and Kuala Belait. Overland from BSB
to Miri (Sarawak) or vice versa involves
changing buses several times.
The BSB bus station is on Jln Cator, be-
neath the multistorey car park. For Miri,
take a bus to Seria (B$6, two hours), where
you buy a combined ticket for the three
buses you’ll need to get to Miri. This comes
to B$11.20 and includes your ticket to Kuala
Belait (B$1, 30 minutes), from Kuala Belait
to the border (B$5.50) and from the bor-
der to Miri (RM5.50). You change buses in
Sungai Belait to cross the river, and switch
again at the Kuala Baram border point. Im-
migration and customs formalities are taken
care of on both sides of the Brunei–Sarawak
border.
The journey to Miri takes about four
hours. Buses leave BSB for Seria between
6.30am and 5pm, with the last return
around 8pm. It’s best to get an early start
to reach Miri by the early afternoon. From
Seria, buses to Kuala Belait leave roughly
every half-hour until 8pm. Buses from
Kuala Belait to the border leave five times
daily, though this can vary. Before you
board, ask at the bus station in Seria if the
bus will make the Miri connections.
Public bus 44 goes to the Sarawak border
at Kuala Lurah, where you can continue on
to Limbang.
CAR
Hiring a car is the only feasible way to ex-
plore the hinterland of Brunei, though you
could comfortably see most sights in two
days. Prices range from B$80 to B$120 for
a sedan; rates for luxury cars such as Mer-
BRUNEI
cedes, Volvos and 4WDs are much higher.
Mileage and insurance are included, though
surcharges may apply if the car is taken into
Sarawak. Most rental agencies will bring the
car to your hotel and pick it up when you’ve
finished, and drivers can also be arranged,
www.lonelyplanet.com
though this could cost B$100 on top of the
rental cost. Petrol is cheap and the main
roads are in good condition, but some back
roads require a 4WD. An international driv-
er’s permit is required for driving in Brunei.
Ask at the tourist office or at your hotel
about renting a car and staff can probably
help you out. Rental operators in BSB:
Avis (%222 7100; Sheraton Utama Hotel, Jln Tasek Lama)
Azizah Car Rentals (%222 9388; Jln Pusar Ulak)
Hertz (%239 0300; Brunei International Airport)
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Purple buses 23, 24, 36, 38 and 57 will get
you to/from the airport, about 4km north-
west of the city, for B$1. Leaving the ter-
minal, keep to the right and walk south for
about 300m to the bus stops.
Some major hotels have courtesy phones
at the arrivals hall that you can use to re-
quest a free pick-up. Taxis go between the
airport and town for about B$16, but cost
more after 9pm.
BUS
The government bus network covers most
sights in and around the city, and the inter-
national ferry terminal at Muara. Routes
for local buses are displayed at the bus sta-
tion, beneath the multistorey car park on
Jln Cator, and numbers are displayed on
each bus. The Explore Brunei booklet and
maps available from the tourist informa-
tion centre also include a good bus-routes
map. Apart from the Muara express serv-
ice (B$2), all fares are B$1. Most buses run
every 15 to 20 minutes, and the system op-
erates daily between 6.30am and 6pm.
Some useful routes:
Airport Buses 23, 24, 36, 38 and 57.
Apek Utama Hotel, Brunei Museum and Malay
Technology Museum Bus 39.
Gadong Buses 1, 22 and 55.
Hassanal Bolkiah National Stadium and Immigra-
tion Department Buses 1 and 34.
Jame’Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque Buses 1 and 22.
Jerudong Park Playground Buses 55 and 57.
Muara Buses 37, 38 and 39.
Voctech International House Buses 1 and 22.
Express buses travel between BSB and the
Muara ferry terminal roughly every half-
hour between 6.50am and 4.50pm; the trip
takes 40 minutes.
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TAXI
Taxis are metered at B$3 for the first 1km
and B$1 for each additional kilometre. The
rates go up to B$4.50 for the first kilometre
after 9pm. A charge of B$1 is added for each
piece of luggage and there’s an added B$5
for trips to and from the airport. Lots of
taxis congregate at the bus station, but you
may have trouble flagging one down further
afield. Booking a taxi (%222 2214) also incurs
a charge of B$3.
WATER TAXI
Water taxis are longboats with powerful
outboard motors that hurtle up and down
Sungai Brunei, transporting passengers to/
from Kampung Ayer’s stilt villages. Get-
ting in and out of them can be a bit of a
balancing act, but they’re lots of fun and
definitely more exciting than a bus. Wave
them down near the customs wharf or the
Tamu Kianggeh food market or in front of
the Yayasan Complex. Fares for short trips
are between B$1 and B$2. To charter a boat
for a tour of Kampung Ayer and the river
shouldn’t cost more than B$10 per hour.
AROUND BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN
There are a handful of attractions just out-
side the BSB city limits, mainly in the outly-
ing suburb of Jerudong. While they may be
few, ‘modest’ is not a word that applies –
it’s no coincidence that the sultan has his
palace here, and the whole area is effectively
a huge royal cul-de-sac, displaying some of
the finest fruits of Brunei’s oil money.
Jerudong Park Playground
Perhaps the biggest birthday gift ever, this
vast amusement park (% 261 1894; Jerudong;
adult/child B$15/5; h 5pm-midnight Wed-Fri & Sun)
was constructed to mark the sultan’s 48th
birthday in 1994. Sadly, since admission
stopped being free in 2000, visitor numbers
and maintenance standards have dropped
dramatically, and at the time of research
virtually none of the major rides were work-
ing due to spare-part and insurance issues.
However, exploring the fantasy landscape is
still a good way of spending an evening in
nightlife-challenged Brunei.
Wandering round the park, especially on
a weekday evening, is a truly surreal experi-
ence unlike much else you’ll encounter in
Southeast Asia – scattered groups of locals
B R U N E I • • A r o u n d B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n 603
and tourists meander around slightly aim-
lessly, looking at the defunct attractions with
a mixture of awe and bewilderment, like in-
habitants of the Planet of the Apes discover-
ing a post-apocalyptic Manhattan. In fact you
could even see it as a metaphor for Brunei it-
self, a spectacular but impractical jewel left to
crumble quietly in the hands of people who
just aren’t quite sure what to do with it.
When the big rides aren’t working ad-
mission is discounted to B$5. Sleeveless
blouses or shirts are not allowed and proper
footwear is required. On Saturdays the park
is open until 2am and there are food and
drink stalls in the parking lot.
It’s easy to get to the playground with
buses 55 or 57 from the bus station, but the
last bus leaves at 5.30pm and getting back to
town can be a problem. Major hotels have
shuttle services for about B$20 per person.
A taxi back to BSB will cost about B$35.
You may also meet locals who will offer to
drive you to the park, the Empire Hotel, the
mosque and the palace; the asking price is
around B$48 per car.
Jame’Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque
On the way out to Jerudong, the Jame’Asr
Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque (%223 8741; Kampung
Kiarong, Jln Hassan Bolkiah; admission free) is the larg-
est mosque in Brunei and a seriously im-
pressive slice of Islamic design. It was built
at great expense for the 25th anniversary
of the sultan’s reign in 1992, and most of
the design elements have some numeric or
symbolic significance. Take buses 1 or 22
to get there.
Empire Hotel
As much an attraction as a place to stay,
the stunning Empire Hotel & Country Club
(%241 8888; www.theempirehotel.com; Muara-Tutong
Hwy, Kampung Jerudong; r B$525-665, ste B$798-24,200;
ais) is known locally as the ‘six-star’
hotel, and it’s not hard to see how it differs
from even the best five-star establishments.
Commissioned by the infamous Prince Jefri
(see boxed text, p604), the Empire is esti-
mated to have cost US$1.1 billion to build,
BRUNEI
an astronomical sum considering the Pet-
ronas Towers in KL cost US$1.9 billion!
The design manages to be stupendously
luxurious yet elegantly understated at the
same time, mainly by doing everything on
a large scale – the five-storey atrium is 80m
 604 B R U N E I • • A r o u n d B a n d a r S e r i B e g a w a n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B R U N E I • • Tu t o n g & B e l a i t 605

high, for a start, not to mention the seven Beaches day trips – see p598 for operator listings. water habitat is unique in Borneo, dyed a
restaurants, golf course, beach, cinema, Not many people come to Brunei for a The island is a good example of mangrove distinctive tea colour by tannin from leaves
bowling alley and dinner theatre. If your sun’n’sand experience, but if you do have ecology, with 2km of wooden walkways and falling in the water, and supports a wide
jaw hasn’t dropped lately, this is the place some spare time to stretch out on the dunes an observation tower. A guide is necessary variety of birds, mammals and snakes. It’s
for it to do so. there are a couple of options around the and caution is advised because of venom- a pretty, tranquil spot surrounded by forest
small port of Muara. ous snakes. and rarely troubled by large groups; you
Istana Nurul Iman Two kilometres from town, Pantai Muara can follow a couple of walking trails or hire
The sultan’s palace, the Istana Nurul Iman (Muara Beach) is a popular weekend re- TUTONG & BELAIT a boat (B$30 per hour) to take you around
(%222 9988; Jln Tutong), is an impressive sight, treat. The white sand is clean, but like many These two districts make up the bulk of the lake’s two islands. There’s an exhibition
especially when lit up at night. It’s larger beaches in Borneo, it’s littered with drift- Brunei’s western territory, with the prin- hall (h9am-4pm) just down the road from
than the Vatican Palace and no expense was wood and other flotsam that comes in with cipal towns strung out along the coastal the lakefront.
spared in its construction; it cost US$350 the tide. It’s quiet during the week and has highway down to Sabah. Buses do use the The tourist information centre in BSB
million and, among other features, has 1788 food stalls, picnic tables and a children’s main road, but if you want to see the sights (p595) has day trips to Merimbun for B$98
rooms, 200 toilets and a banquet hall with playground. the most feasible way is to take a tour or per person. The only way to get there on
seating for 4000. Unfortunately, the istana Other beaches include Pantai Serasa, a rent a car. your own is by car and the road is a little
is open to the public only during Hari Raya thin bit of beach on an equally thin spit of rough in places.
Aidilfitri, the end of the fasting month of land jutting out into the sea. The Royal Bru- Tutong
Ramadan, when the sultan is often willing nei Yacht Club is here, as well as a water- Tutong is the main town in Tutong district Labi
to meet his people. sports centre and lots of food stalls on the and is about halfway between Seria and As you enter the Belait district, east of Seria,
The istana (palace) is about 3.5km out of weekend. About 4km west of Muara along BSB. The town itself is unremarkable, but a road branches inland to Labi, taking you
town on the Tutong road, and the grounds the Muara–Tutong highway, Pantai Mera- does have a good beach a couple of kilo- past some prime forest areas. The first of
look on to Sungai Brunei. You could spend gang (Crocodile Beach) is another beach metres away at Pantai Seri Kenangan, often these, about 500m from the main highway,
a leisurely hour walking there, or charter a that’s pleasant and not quite as crowded as simply referred to as Pantai Tutong. Set on is the Sungai Liang Forest Recreation Park, one
water taxi (p603) to Taman Persiaran Damuan, the others on weekends. There’s a couple of a spit of land, with the ocean on one side of the few intact lowland forests in South-
a large landscaped park along the riverbank food stalls and it’s a good place for a picnic, and the Sungai Tutong on the other, the east Asia, with numerous walking trails and
nearby, which has some of the best views but it’s difficult to get to without your own white-sand, casuarina-lined beach is argu- a canopy walkway.
of the palace. Boatmen can also take you transport. ably the best in Brunei. The royal fam- About halfway between the Sungai
past Pulau Ranggu, in the middle of the river, Buses 37, 38 or 39 go from BSB to Muara ily clearly agrees, as it has a surprisingly Liang Forest Recreation Park and Labi is
which is home to a large colony of proboscis town (B$2); bus 33 will take you from there modest istana here for discreet getaways. the Luagan Lalak Forest Reserve, a wetland
monkeys. The best time to head out is late to Pantai Muara or Pantai Serasa (B$1). Commoners, sadly, have to make do with zone that becomes a lake after heavy rain.
afternoon, so you can catch the monkeys picnic tables, a simple restaurant and food A weathered wooden boardwalk traverses
around sunset and then get dropped off at Pulau Selirong hawkers at weekends. The turn-off to the the area, crossing an emerald-green field
the park to see the palace in the evening. This small island (25 sq km) off Brunei Bay, beach is near the Tamu Tutong, where a of lush swamp grasses. Further on, about
Asking prices will probably start at B$30 but about one hour by boat from Muara, is on market is held every morning. 10km south of Kampung Labi, there are
you should be able to hire a boat for B$20. the itinerary of some tour companies for After Seri Kenangan the beach road con- several modern, relatively small Iban long-
tinues for another 5km to Kuala Tutong; houses open to visitors, including Rumah
the beach at the end is quiet and ideal for Panjang Mendaram Besar and Rumah
PRINCELY SUMS camping. Panjang Teraja. Off the road near here a
Any project mentioned in the same breath as Prince Jefri tends to come with a price tag, and 20-minute trail through the forest leads to
the Empire Hotel was just one of the profligate prince’s extravagances. The ultimate bored little Kuala Lurah the Wasai Wong Kadir, a waterfall and crystal-
rich boy, Jefri’s appointment as finance minister was like putting a kid in charge of all the candy Reached by bus 44 from BSB, this is the clear pool.
stores, and his financial flights of fancy were truly epic. His acquisitions through the Amedeo least useful Sarawak border post for travel- There are more trekking possibilities
Development Corporation included five luxury hotels overseas, not least the Beverly Hills Hotel lers but one of the most heavily used for south of Kampung Labi. Heading down
in Los Angeles, and by the time the sultan cut him off the prince had spent almost US$4 billion locals. It’s essentially a mini Tijuana, with the road past Rumah Panjang Teraja, you’ll
on himself, with personal possessions including 2000 cars, several private jets, multiple lavish a roaring trade in cheap Malaysian booze, find the Sungai Teraja and a trail to another
residences and some much-discussed gold-plated toilet brushes. hookers and, um, chicken wings – by all waterfall and Bukit Teraja, the highest hill in
Prince Jefri left Brunei for London on a ‘limited’ US$500,000-a-year allowance in 2004, barely means explore, but if that’s really your the area, with good views across Brunei and
enough to support his five wives and 35 children, but continued to enjoy an outlandish lifestyle, thing maybe you shouldn’t be in Brunei in Sarawak. The main trail to the summit is
prompting the sultan and the Brunei Investment Agency (BIA) to pursue him again through the the first place… signposted about 7km beyond Labi, though
BRUNEI

BRUNEI
courts for an estimated US$16 billion in missing funds. In early 2006 things got even more con- it can be tricky to spot from a moving car.
fusing: the British press reported that the sultan had unexpectedly agreed to drop the charges Tasek Merimbun The walk through primary forest to the top
and even pay legal costs, a move strenuously denied by the BIA. The wrangles continue, the The 7800-hectare Merimbun Heritage Park takes about two hours. Travel agencies do
brothers are still not speaking to each other, and it seems it will be some time before the people is 27km inland from Tutong, gazetted as day trips to Bukit Teraja and charge around
of Brunei can start to put the whole fiasco behind them. an ASEAN Heritage Park to protect Tasek B$100 per person. To get there on your own
Merimbun, Brunei’s largest lake. The black- you’ll need to rent a car.
 606 B R U N E I • • Tu t o n g & B e l a i t
For a more extensive trip to Dusun and
Penan villages at Kampung Sukang and
Kampung Melilas, deep in the jungle along
Sungai Belait, you’ll have to go by boat; ex-
pect to pay around B$300 per day to hire a
suitable craft. Try asking at Kampung Sun-
gai Mau, on the Labi road where it meets
Sungai Belait before Luagan Lalak.
Seria
Seria is a transit stop on the road to
Sarawak, a company town spread out along
the coast between Tutong and Kuala Belait.
In fact, it’s hard to tell where Seria ends
and Kuala Belait begins. This is where Shell
Brunei has its major installations, and the
low bungalows accommodate company
staff and the Gurkha troops brought in to
protect their work.
The coastal plain between here and Kuala
Belait is the main centre for oil produc-
tion in Brunei, and at a beach just outside
of town the curvy Billionth Barrel Monument
commemorates (you guessed it) the bil-
lionth barrel of oil produced at the Seria
field. From the beach, oil rigs are visible
jutting up on the horizon.
If that’s just not enough hydrocarbons for
you, the flashy new Oil & Gas Discovery Centre
(%337 7200; www.shell.com.bn/ogdc; F20, off Jln Tengah;
adult/child/teenager B$5/1/2; h9am-5pm Tue-Thu, 10am-
noon & 2-6pm Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) aims to put
an ‘edutainment’ spin on the industry, ap-
pealing particularly to young science buffs.
The complex includes an exhibition hall, a
gallery, a theatre, an education centre and
even a playground with skate park to keep
any disaffected youths happy.
There are a few modern blocks of shops,
a market and one small hotel, the Hotel Ko-
perasi (%322 7592; r B$55-99; a), opposite the
bus station.
About 10 buses a day trundle along the
road from BSB (B$6, two hours), with fre-
quent departures between 6.30am and 5pm
(8pm returning to BSB). If you’re travel-
ling by bus to Sarawak, you must change
at Seria. You can buy tickets all the way
through to Miri from the bus station here
BRUNEI
(see p602 for details).
Kuala Belait
The last town before Sarawak, Kuala Belait
is the main town in Belait district and the
place to get buses to Miri. ‘KB’ (not to be
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confused with Kuala Baram on the Sarawak
side of the border, or Kota Belud in Sabah,
or indeed a ‘knock-back’ anywhere else)
has colonial shophouses in the town cen-
tre, the Silver Jubilee Park (Jln Maulana) and a
reasonable beach, though most travellers
just hustle through on their way to or from
Sarawak. The HSBC bank has an ATM, di-
agonally opposite the bus station on Jln
McKerron.
You can hire a boat by the market for
trips south up the river to Kuala Balai, a
small river village that was once the larg-
est settlement in the district. It’s now al-
most deserted because the residents have
left to find work in the oil industry on the
coast, but locals do maintain a traditional-
style longhouse for tourists to visit. The
45-minute trip (one way) passes by lush
jungle at the river’s edge. Price is by nego-
tiation, but expect to pay about B$150 each
way. Tours from BSB cost from B$120 per
person, including jungle trekking, a visit to
a tribal skull house and a chance to try out
traditional activities such as sago process-
ing and roof thatching.
EATING & SLEEPING
Government Rest House (%333 4288; Jln Carey; r
B$50; a) As near as you’ll get to a budget
option in KB, this municipal guesthouse is
right on the beach, a 10-minute walk along
Jln McKerron from the bus station, then
200m to the right on Jln Carey. It’s a good
idea to phone in advance.
Hotel Sentosa (%333 4341; www.bruneisentosa
hotel.com; 92-93 Jln McKerron; r B$85-95; ai) Con-
veniently situated near the bus station, this
is a comfortable, reasonably priced business
hotel with its own café and snooker bar.
Seaview Hotel (%333 2651; Jln Maulana; r B$77-
120; as) About 4km out of town along
the beach road towards Seria, this is prob-
ably the best place to stay if you’re planning
to do trips around Kuala Belait. Breakfast is
included and there’s a well-stocked super-
market frequented by expats. The hotel can
also arrange car rental.
Kuala Belait has plenty of kedai kopi (cof-
fee shops) within noodle-spitting distance
of the bus station.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
See p602 for details of buses to Kuala Belait
and on to Miri.
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From Kuala Belait it’s a five-minute bus
ride or 20-minute walk to Sungai Belait,
where small tambang (ferryboats) ply back
and forth. Once across the river it’s a short
ride to the Brunei immigration checkpoint.
After going through Brunei customs a Ma-
laysian bus takes passengers to the Malaysian
immigration checkpoint and on to Miri.
TEMBURONG
If the KB–BSB run leaves you wondering
where all that famous rainforest is, just
head down into the Temburong district to
escape into the green expanses of Brunei’s
untouched primary jungle. Jutting out into
Sarawak like a stranded finger, Temburong
is often overlooked by travellers who sim-
ply step straight onto the boat from BSB to
Pulau Labuan, although it is increasingly
and deservedly marketed as one of the
country’s finest natural attractions.
The Peradayan Forest Reserve is a good
outing for a jungle walk, or you can visit
the Iban longhouse at Batang Duri. For a
longer and richer jungle experience, Ulu
Temburong National Park and the Kuala
Belalong Rainforest Field Studies Centre in
the Batu Apoi Forest Reserve receive visi-
tors, but independent travel seems almost
actively discouraged – if you aren’t visiting
on a tour you’ll have to spend time obtain-
ing a permit.
Bangar
pop 3500
Bangar is a quiet little town on the banks
of Sungai Temburong. Despite being barely
three blocks across, it’s the district centre
and has the only convenient facilities this
side of Sarawak, plus a road bridge that
makes a perfect spot for sunset.
The speedboat trip from BSB is a high-
light in itself, roaring down Sungai Brunei
and slapping through the open sea of Bru-
nei Bay, then tilting and weaving through
the dense mangroves into the mouth of
Sungai Temburong. Bangar can be visited
as a day trip if you catch an early boat, but
you’ll get more out of it if you stay over and
explore the area more thoroughly.
Bangar’s handy tourist office (%522 1439;
norma@brunet.bn; 13-14 Kedai Rakyat; h8am-noon &
1.30-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Sun) is in the wooden
shop complex opposite the youth hostel. Ask
here and around town for transport to local
B R U N E I • • Te m b u r o n g 607
attractions, or to see if you can arrange a stay
at one of the Iban longhouses in the area.
From Bangar you can travel overland to
Sarawak, either west to Limbang or east to
Lawas. The immigration office (h6am-10pm) is
a few kilometres west of Bangar on the way
to Limbang.
SLEEPING & EATING
Pusat Belia (Youth Hostel; %522 1694; dm B$10; a)
Basic as you like but immaculately clean.
The toilet setup is slightly strange (you’ll
have to wander through the icily air-
conditioned meeting room); otherwise, it’s
slightly more comfortable than its counter-
part in BSB. To find the hostel, head west
from the boat wharf, past the shops.
Rumah Persinggahan Kerajaan (Bangar Resthouse;
%522 1239; Jln Batang Duri; dm/s/d B$10/25/30, chalets
B$80; a) This government resthouse has
simple six-bed dorms and a range of private
rooms, including two smart little chalets.
The house canteen does some good-value
buffets (B$3).
Restoran Hijrah (%522 1522; Kedai 8; dishes B$2.50-
12; hlunch & dinner) A ‘proper’ air-con restau-
rant in the row of shops and kedai kopi up
the road from the boat wharf. The menu
offers a good mix of Chinese and Malay fla-
vours, including the region’s famous udang
gallah (river prawns) and steamboat meals
(B$12 to B$16, minimum two people).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bicycle
Cycling is a great way of getting around this
corner of Brunei, and there’s not even that
much traffic to get in your way. You can
hire bikes from the Maryani camping shop
next to the tourist office for B$30 per day.
Boat
From BSB, speedboats (B$6, 45 minutes)
leave from the wharf near the food centre
when they’re full. Boats run in either direc-
tion between 7am and 5pm; you shouldn’t
usually have to wait very long.
Hitchhiking
BRUNEI
Hitchhiking is possible, though you may
be in for a wait, especially on the way back
from Batang Duri. The road to the Per-
adayan Forest Reserve – and Lawas – is
across the bridge from Bangar wharf, on
the east side of the river.
 608 B R U N E I • • Te m b u r o n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 609

Average
Taxi school groups, though interested overseas Peradayan and back to the road. This trail BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN 14m (49ft) Max/Min

Temburong has two main roads; both are visitors can stay here, usually arranged is harder and indistinct in parts, so much so °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm

sealed but traffic is light. One leads south through a tour. that it’s sometimes impassable; if staff tell 40 104 32 800

to Batang Duri and the other runs between Most tours embark at the Outward Bound you not to attempt it, ask them about alter- 30 86 24 600
the east and west borders with Sarawak. centre (www.kkbs.gov.bn/program.htm) on Sungai native trails such as the Challenge Route.
Private and unofficial taxis are the only Temburong, which offers outdoor adven- A park brochure with map is available 20 68 16 400

form of transport in the district, and drivers
congregate near the wharf. They don’t have
meters, and prices must be negotiated.
Taxis go to Limbang in Sarawak for about
B$15. There’s no border post, so make sure
you stop at the immigration office in Ban-
gar before leaving Brunei. Report to im-
migration in Limbang.
A taxi to the eastern Sarawak border
costs B$30. You may be able to persuade
the driver to take you all the way to Lawas,
but this will cost around B$80, including a
stop at the Bangar immigration office.
Batang Duri
Batang Duri is an Iban longhouse on Sungai
Temburong, 17km south of Bangar. Boats
to the Kuala Belalong Rainforest Field Stud-
ies Centre leave from the village jetty. If you
visit the longhouse, introduce yourself first,
preferably to the penghulu (chief). Take
your shoes off when you enter and don’t
wander up and down the veranda; this is
like walking unannounced into someone’s
living room. Batang Duri can be visited as
a day trip or as part of a tour, but overnight
stays must be pre-arranged. A taxi from
Bangar costs B$15 each way.
Ulu Temburong National Park
This up-and-coming national park is situ-
ated within the wider Batu Apoi Forest
Reserve, a large area of primary rainforest
that covers most of southern Temburong.
It’s rapidly becoming Temburong’s prime
attraction for locals and tourists.
The forest is rich in flora and fauna, and
the jungle can be explored along walking
trails. The main visitor route leads to a lofty
canopy walkway, one of the longest in the
world. When floods and overgrown under-
growth permit, you should be able to con-
tinue to the Sungai Apan waterfall or tackle
BRUNEI
ture programs and activities for groups and
individuals.
A permit is required to visit the reserve.
Travellers usually take a tour; if you want to
visit independently, you’ll need to contact
the Forestry Department (forestrybrunei@hotmail.com;
BSB %238 1687; Bangar %522 1839; ) to inquire
about individual and overnight permits, a
process that can take several days. As travel
within the park also requires hiring a boat
(B$150), it’s often easier to go on a tour.
Tour companies in BSB (p598) offer a
variety of packages. The standard rate is
around B$245 per person for a two-day trip
to the park, including an overnight stay at
a Murut village on the way up the Sungai
Temburong. There’s plenty of scope for
group rates and other discounts, though
it’s cheaper by far to get the boat to Bangar
and either book at the tourist office (B$85)
or hang around and try to negotiate a ride-
along with an existing group.
Peradayan Forest Reserve
This forest reserve is about 15km from Ban-
gar along the road to Labu. It protects the
forested peaks of Bukit Patoi and Bukit Pera-
dayan. Walking trails lead to the summits
and this is the most accessible rainforest for
visitors to Brunei. You’ll have to start early to
maximise chances of seeing the mainly noc-
turnal mammals, but the park also contains
many bird species, including hornbills.
The most popular walk is to Bukit Patoi, and
starts at the entrance to the park. The trail is
steep in parts but is well marked, with plank
walkways, steps and rest huts along the way.
It’s about a 20-minute walk to Batu Berdind-
ing (a sandstone outcrop), and then another
hour to the summit. From the summit there
are fine views to the east across the South
China Sea and the Lawas area of Sarawak.
Most walkers descend back along the
from the tourist office in Bangar. There are
picnic tables and a toilet block at the start
of the trail, but bring water and food for
the walk. The return taxi trip from Bangar
should cost around B$30. The driver will
wait for you to do the summit walk, or if
you want to spend more time in the reserve,
arrange for a pick-up.
DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
In Brunei budget places are under B$60,
midrange is B$60 to B$200, and top end
is over B$200. Most prices are quoted net,
inclusive of 10% service charge.
BUSINESS HOURS
Government offices are open from 7.45am
to 12.15pm and 1.30pm to 4.30pm (closed
on Friday and Sunday); private-business of-
fices are generally open from 8am to 5pm
Monday to Friday and from 8am to noon
on Saturday. Banks are open from 9am to
3pm weekdays and from 9am to 11am on
Saturday. Most shops in the central area of
Bandar Seri Begawan open daily around
9am and are closed by 6pm. Shopping malls
generally open an hour or so later and close
between 9.30pm and 10pm (some may close
earlier on Sunday). Hours may be shorter
during the fasting month of Ramadan. As
a rough guide, cafés are generally open 7am
to 9pm, restaurants 11am to 10pm.
CLIMATE
Like the rest of Borneo, Brunei experiences
high average temperatures, humidity and
rainfall. Temperatures consistently fall be-
tween 24°C and 31°C, with an average hu-
midity of 79%. Average annual rainfall is
10 50 8 200
0 32 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
CUSTOMS
Duty-free allowances for persons over 17
years of age are 200 cigarettes or 250g of
tobacco, 60ml of perfume and 250ml of eau
de toilette. Non-Muslims may import two
bottles of liquor and 12 cans of beer, which
must be declared upon arrival.
The importation of drugs carries the
death penalty.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Bruneian Embassies & Consulates
Australia (%02-6285 4500; 10 Beale Cres, Deakin,
ACT 2600)
Canada (%613-234 5656; 395 Laurier Ave East, Ottawa,
ON K1N 6R4)
France (%01-53 64 67 60; No 7, Rue de Presparg, Paris
75017)
Germany (%030-206 07 600; Kronenstrasse 55-58,
10117 Berlin)
Indonesia (%021-574 1438; Jln Tanjung Karang 1,
Jakarta Pusat, Jakarta 10210)
Malaysia (%03-2161 2800; 19th fl, Menara Tun & Tan,
Jln Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur)
PRACTICALITIES
Newspapers
„ The Borneo Bulletin is Brunei’s English-
language daily.
Radio
„ English radio broadcasts can be heard
on the FM bands Pilihan Network and
Pelangi Network.
Television
„ State channel RTB can be received on

the rugged two-day walk to Bukit Belalong.
The Kuala Belalong Rainforest Field Studies
Centre was developed by Brunei Shell and
the Universiti Brunei Darussalam to pro-
vide facilities for research into tropical
rainforests. It’s primarily for scientists and
same trail, but it’s possible to continue over
the other side of the summit and around
to Bukit Peradayan. The trail eventually re-
joins the road some 12km from Bangar near
the Labu Km 5 marker. Allow at least three
hours for the walk from Bukit Patoi to Bukit
BRUNEI
about 3295mm. Although Brunei doesn’t Channel 5.
really have marked wet and dry seasons,
the wettest months are from September to Electricity
January, during the northeast monsoon, „ UK-type three-square-pin plug (220V to
and the driest period is February to April. 240V, 50 cycles); metric system
See p18 for more info.
 610 D I R E C T O R Y • • H o l i d a y s
Singapore (%065-6733 9055; 325 Tanglin Rd, Singa-
pore 247955)
UK (%020-7581 0521; 19-20 Belgrave Sq, London SW1X
8PG)
USA (%202-237 1838; www.bruneiembassy.org; 3520
International Court, Washington DC 2008)
Embassies & Consulates in Brunei
Countries with diplomatic representation
in Bandar Seri Begawan:
Australia High Commission (Map p594; %222 9436;
www.bruneidarussalam.embassy.gov.au; Jln Pemancha)
Canada High Commission (Map p594; %222 0043;
hiomcda@brnet.bn; 5th fl, Jln McArthur Bldg, 1 Jln McArthur)
France (Map p594; %222 0960; france@brunet.bn;
51-55 Kompleks Jln Sultan, Jln Sultan)
Germany (Map p594; %222 5574; pregerman@brunet
.bn; 2nd fl, Unit 2.01, Block D, Yayasan Complex)
Indonesia (Map p594; %233 0180; www.indonesia.org
.bn; 4498 Simpang 528, Jln Muara, Kampung Sungai Hanching)
Malaysia High Commission (Map p594; %238 1095;
mwbrunei@brunet.bn; 61 Simpang 396-39, Jln Kebang-
saan Lama, Kampung Sungai Akar)
Singapore High Commission (Map p594; %226 2741;
www.mfa.gov.sg/brunei/; 8 Simpang 74, Jln Subok)
UK High Commission (Map p594; %222 2231; www
.britain-brunei.org/gov; 2nd fl, Block D, Yayasan Complex)
USA (Map p594; %222 0384; http://bandar.usembassy
.gov; 3rd fl, Teck Guan Plaza, Jln Sultan)
HOLIDAYS
Brunei has many of the same holidays as
Malaysia, based on the Islamic calendar but
including Chinese New Year, Christmas Day
and New Year’s Day.
Brunei National Day 23 February
Hari Raya Aidiladha Variable February/March
Muslim New Year (Hizrah) Variable
Royal Brunei Armed Forces Day 31 May
Prophet’s Birthday Variable (in Malaysia and Brunei only)
Sultan of Brunei’s Birthday 15 July
Hari Raya Aidilfitri Variable
LEGAL MATTERS
The sale of alcohol is illegal in Brunei.
For being caught in homosexual acts you
can be jailed for up to 10 years and fined
B$30,000.
BRUNEI
MAPS
Shell publishes a folding road-map of Bru-
nei, but it’s not as useful as its larger and
more comprehensive Road Map and Street
Index of Brunei Darussalam.
www.lonelyplanet.com
COMING OF AGE IN BRUNEI
„ Age of legal responsibility – 18
„ Age of consent (heterosexual) – 14
„ Driving age – 18
„ Drinking age – never (for Muslims)
„ Voting age – never (for anyone!)
MONEY
The official currency is the Brunei dollar
(B$), but Singapore dollars are exchanged
at an equal rate and can be used.
Banks in the region are efficient and
there are plenty of moneychangers. For
changing travellers cheques, banks usually
charge around 3% and will only change
a maximum of US$200, whereas money-
changers have no charges (theoretically
there should be no limit for moneychang-
ers but travellers may have problems with
larger amounts).
There is no sales tax in Brunei. Some ho-
tels add a 10% service charge, though this is
mostly included in the published price.
See the Quick Reference page () for cur-
rency exchange rates.
International cards are widely accepted
and ATMs are readily available.
POST
Post offices open from 8am to 4.30pm
Monday to Thursday and Saturday (8am
to 11am and 2pm to 4pm Friday; closed
Sunday).
Letters (up to 10g) cost 75c to Australia
and New Zealand, 90c to the UK, and
B$1.20 to the USA and Canada. An air-
mail postcard to Malaysia and Singapore
is 20c; to most other places in Southeast
Asia it’s 35c; to the Pacific, Europe, Africa
and Australia it’s 50c; and to the Americas
it’s 60c. Aerograms are 45c regardless of
destination.
TELEPHONE
To call Brunei from outside the country, the
country code is %673; from Brunei, the
international access code is %00. Within
Brunei, there are no area codes.
Hallo Kad and JTB are the most com-
mon types of phonecard. They’re available
from Telecom offices and retail stores in
www.lonelyplanet.com
denominations of B$10, B$20, B$50 and
B$100, and can be used in public booths
to make international calls. Most hotels
have IDD phones, and faxes can be sent
from the Telecom office or from major
hotels.
TOURIST INFORMATION
The government has an official tourism
website at www.tourismbrunei.com.
There are no overseas tourist offices, just
the commercial tourist information centre (Map
p594; %227 3734; wildlifeadventure@hotmail.com; Post
Office Bldg, cnr Jln Sultan & Jln Elizabeth Dua) in Bandar
Seri Begawan.
VISAS
Visitors must have a valid passport or inter-
nationally recognised travel document valid
for at least six months beyond the date of
entry into Brunei.
For those travellers wishing to visit up
to 14 days, visas are not necessary for citi-
zens of Belgium, Canada, Denmark, France,
Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Luxembourg, the
Netherlands, Norway, the Philippines, Po-
land, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Thailand
and the Republic of the Maldives. Austrian,
British, German, Malaysian, New Zealand,
Singaporean and South Korean nationals
do not require a visa for visits of 30 days
or less. US citizens do not need a visa for
visits of up to 90 days. Australian citizens
entering by air can get 30-day visas on ar-
rival for B$30.
Israeli citizens are not permitted to enter
Brunei, and North Korean passport hold-
ers may also be turned away. People of all
other nationalities should obtain a visa be-
fore visiting Brunei.
Bruneian embassies overseas have been
known to give incorrect advice, so you
should double-check if in doubt. Visas can
be renewed when in Brunei.
Transit passengers are issued a 72-hour
visa at the airport, which is enough to see
most of the sights, but ties you to travel-
ling by air.
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
As Brunei is a conservative Muslim soci-
ety, dressing modestly is advised in most
areas. This may also help avoid occasional
nuisances such as catcalls from youths and
advances from elderly men.
T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 611
TRANSPORT
GETTING THERE & AWAY
For Brunei, many travellers will need to
obtain a visa in advance. Brunei may not
admit nationals of Israel or North Korea.
For more details of visa and other entry
requirements, see left.
Air
Brunei International Airport (%233 2531, flight in-
quiries 233 1747) is about 4km out of the centre
of Bandar Seri Begawan.
Royal Brunei Airlines (Map p594; %221 2222;
www.bruneiair.com; RBA Plaza, Jln Sultan) has direct
flights between Bandar Seri Begawan and
many destinations in Asia, plus Sydney,
Darwin, Brisbane and Perth in Australia,
Auckland in New Zealand and Jeddah and
Dubai in the Middle East. Stopover flights
go to London and Frankfurt for connections
throughout Europe and further afield.
Brunei levies a departure tax of B$12 on
all flights (B$5 to Kota Kinabalu).
A number of other companies serve re-
gional destinations; for airline offices in
BSB see p601.
Land
The main overland route into Brunei is by
bus from Miri in Sarawak; see p602. You can
travel overland between Limbang or Lawas
in Sarawak and Bangar in the eastern part
of Brunei, although a boat to Bandar Seri
Begawan is far more convenient. See Bangar
(p608), Limbang (p413) and Lawas (p413)
for details on these border crossings.
Sea
Boats connect Brunei to Lawas and Lim-
bang in Sarawak, and to Pulau Labuan, from
where boats go to Sabah. With the exception
of speedboats for Limbang, all international
boats now depart from Muara, 25km north-
east of Bandar Seri Begawan, where Brunei
immigration formalities are also handled.
See p601 for more information.
Buy your ticket at the dock the previous
BRUNEI
day if you are catching an early boat, espe-
cially on weekends and public holidays, and
aim to check in 45 minutes before depar-
ture time to clear immigration. You’ll need
to catch the first express bus to Muara from
BSB to get the first ferry.

612 T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d
From Muara, there are numerous ex-
press boats daily to Pulau Labuan between
7.30am and 4.40pm. The fare from Brunei
is B$15; first class is only B$3 (or RM6)
more and a lot more comfortable.
Boats to Limbang in Sarawak leave from
the customs wharf at the end of Jln Roberts
in Bandar Seri Begawan, where there’s also
an immigration office. Private express boats
do this run between 6am and 6pm, depart-
ing when full. The fare is B$10 and the trip
takes about 30 minutes.
One express boat goes daily from Muara
to Lawas in Sarawak (B$10, two hours) at
11.30am. Returning to Muara, a boat leaves
Lawas at 7am and costs RM25.
GETTING AROUND
Transport around Brunei is by bus, rental
car or taxi. The public bus system is easy
and reliable, but only operates in and
around Bandar Seri Begawan. Buses mostly
run between 6am and 6pm daily. On the
main highway you’ll be subjected to the
BRUNEI
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 613
incessant, irritating beeping noise of over-
stressed speed alerts.
If you want to get off the main road to
explore the hinterland, a rental car (p602)
or organised tour (p598) are the best op-
tions. Taxis aren’t good value for long trips.
If you’re thinking of renting a car, remem-
ber that Bruneians drive on the left side of
the road.
Hitchhikers are quite a novelty in Bru-
nei so chances of getting a lift aren’t bad,
though cars are less inclined to stop on the
main highway and may expect money for
lifts. However, hitching is never entirely
safe, and we don’t recommend it. Hitchhik-
ers should understand that they are taking
a potentially serious risk. If you do decide
to hitchhike, it is safer to travel in pairs
and let someone know where you are plan-
ning to go.
Boats regularly connect Bangar in the
Temburong district with BSB. Temburong
has a limited road network, and taxis are
the only way to get around independently.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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© Lonely Planet Publications
w w w . Rl oUnNe Nl yIpNl Ga nHeEtA. cDo m• • R u n n i n g s u b h e a d
612 www.lonelyplanet.com 613

H E A LT H
Health
or needles, be sure to have a physician’s letter
CONTENTS documenting their medical necessity. If you
have a heart condition, bring a copy of your
Before You Go 613 ECG taken just prior to travelling.
Insurance 613 If you take any regular medication, bring
Recommended Vaccinations 613 double your needs in case of loss or theft,
Medical Checklist 614 and carry these extra supplies separately. You
Online Resources 615 may be able to buy some medications over
Further Reading 615 the counter in Malaysia without a doctor’s
In Transit 615 prescription, but it can be difficult to find
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 615 some of the newer drugs, particularly the lat-
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 615 est antidepressants, blood pressure medica-
In Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei 615 tions and contraceptive pills.
Availability & Cost of Health Care 615
Infectious Diseases 616 INSURANCE
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 619 Even if you are fit and healthy, don’t travel
Environmental Hazards 619 without health insurance – accidents do
Travelling with Children 622 happen. Declare any existing medical con-
Women’s Health 622 ditions you have – the insurance company
will check if your problem is pre-existing
Health issues and the quality of medical fa- and will not cover you if it is undeclared.
cilities vary depending on where and how You may require extra cover for adventure
you travel in the region. The major cities are activities such as rock climbing. If your
now well developed, but travel to rural areas health insurance doesn’t cover you for
can expose you to a variety of health risks medical expenses abroad, consider getting
and inadequate medical care. Travellers extra insurance. If you’re uninsured, emer-
tend to worry about contracting infectious gency evacuation is expensive; bills of over
diseases when in the tropics, but infections US$100,000 are not uncommon. Find out
rarely cause serious illness or death in trav- in advance if your insurance plan will make
ellers. Pre-existing medical conditions, such payments directly to providers or reimburse
as heart disease, and accidental injury (es- you later for overseas health expenses. (Doc-
pecially traffic accidents) account for most tors may expect payment in cash.)
life-threatening situations. Becoming ill in
some way, however, is relatively common. RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
Fortunately most common illnesses can ei- Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your
ther be prevented with some common-sense best source of information; they stock all
behaviour or be treated easily with a well- available vaccines and will be able to give
stocked traveller’s medical kit. specific recommendations for you and your
The following advice is a general guide trip. The doctors will take into account
only and does not replace the advice of a factors such as past vaccination history,
doctor trained in travel medicine. the length of your trip, activities you may
be undertaking and underlying medical
conditions.
BEFORE YOU GO Most vaccines don’t produce immunity
until at least two weeks after they’re given,
Pack medications in their original, clearly la- so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before
belled containers. A signed and dated letter departure. Ask your doctor for an Interna-
from your physician describing your medi- tional Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise
cal conditions and medications, plus generic known as the yellow booklet), which will
names, is also a good idea. If carrying syringes list all the vaccinations you’ve received.
 614 B E F O R E Y O U G O • • M e d i c a l C h e c k l i s t
Proof of vaccination against yellow fever
H E A LT H
will be required only if you have visited a
country in the yellow fever zone (parts of
Africa and South America) within six days
prior to entering Southeast Asia. If you’re
coming from Africa or South America, check
to see if you require proof of vaccination.
The World Health Organization recom-
mends the following vaccinations for trav-
ellers to Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei:
Adult diphtheria and tetanus Single booster recom-
mended if none in the previous 10 years. Side effects
include a sore arm and fever.
Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a
year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another
20 years’ protection. Mild side effects such as headache
and sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people.
Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers.
Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is
also available, as is a combined vaccination with hepatitis
A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually headache
and sore arm. In 95% of people lifetime protection results.
Measles, mumps and rubella (MMR) Two doses of
MMR are required unless you have had the diseases. Occa-
sionally some develop a rash and flu-like illness a week after
receiving the vaccine. Many young adults require a booster.
Polio In 2002 no countries in Southeast Asia reported
cases of polio. Only one booster is required as an adult for
lifetime protection. The inactivated polio vaccine is safe
during pregnancy.
Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a
week and only to developed cities. The vaccine offers
around 70% protection, lasts for two to three years and
comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available; however,
the injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side
effects. Sore arm and fever may occur.
Varicella If you haven’t had chickenpox discuss the
vaccination with your doctor.
These immunisations are recommended
for longer-term travellers (more than one
month) or those at special risk:
Japanese B encephalitis Three injections in all. Booster
recommended after two years. Sore arm and headache are
the most common side effects. Rarely, an allergic reaction
comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10 days after
any of the three doses.
Meningitis Single injection. There are two types of vacci-
nation. The quadravalent vaccine gives two to three years’
protection. Meningitis group C vaccine gives around 10
years’ protection. Recommended for long-term backpack-
ers aged younger than 25.
Rabies Three injections in all. A booster after one year
will then provide 10 years’ protection. Side effects are rare;
a headache or a sore arm.
www.lonelyplanet.com
Tuberculosis (TB) A complex issue. Adult long-term
travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin test
before and after travel, rather than vaccination. Children
may be recommended to have the vaccination; only one is
necessary in a lifetime.
MEDICAL CHECKLIST
Recommended items for a personal medi-
cal kit:
„ For diarrhoea consider an oral rehydra-
tion solution (eg Gastrolyte), diarrhoea
‘stopper’ (eg Loperamide) and antinau-
sea medication (eg Prochlorperazine)
„ Antibiotics for diarrhoea – Norfloxacin
or Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin for
bacterial diarrhoea; Tinidazole for giar-
diasis or amoebic dysentery
„ Laxative, eg Coloxyl
„ Antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg
Buscopan
„ Indigestion tablets, for example Quick-
Eze, Mylanta
„ Throat lozenges
„ Antihistamine – there are many options,
eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethaz-
ine for night
„ Decongestant, eg pseudoephedrine
„ Paracetamol
„ Ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory
„ Your personal medicine if you are a mi-
graine sufferer
„ Sunscreen and hat
„ Antiseptic, eg Betadine
„ Antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin
„ Steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes,
eg 1% to 2% hydrocortisone
„ Antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole
„ For skin infections, antibiotics such as
Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin
„ Contraceptive method
„ Thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treat-
ment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or
Diflucan tablet
„ Ural, or equivalent, if prone to urinary-
tract infections
„ DEET-based insect repellant
„ Mosquito net impregnated with a sub-
stance like permethrin
„ Permethrin to impregnate clothing
„ Iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant or
have a thyroid problem) to purify water
„ Basic first-aid items such as scissors,
sticking plasters, bandages, gauze, ther-
mometer (but not mercury), sterile nee-
dles and syringes, safety pins, tweezers.
www.lonelyplanet.com
HEALTH ADVISORIES
It’s usually a good idea to consult your
government’s travel-health website before
departure, if one is available:
Australia www.dfat.gov.au/travel/
Canada www.travelhealth.gc.ca
New Zealand www.mfat.govt.nz/travel
South Africa www.dfa.gov.za/travelling
UK www.doh.gov.uk/traveladvice/
USA www.cdc.gov/travel/
ONLINE RESOURCES
There’s a wealth of travel-health advice on
the internet. For further information:
CDC (www.cdc.gov) Has good general information.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) A good place
to start.
MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com) Provides
complete travel health recommendations for every country
and is updated daily.
World Health Organization (www.who.int/ith/)
Publishes a superb book called International Travel and
Health, which is revised annually and is available online
at no cost.
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s pocket-sized Healthy
Travel Asia & India is packed with use-
ful information including pretrip plan-
ning, emergency first aid, immunisation
and disease information and what to do
if you get sick on the road. Travel with
Children from Lonely Planet includes ad-
vice on travel health for young children.
Other recommended references include
Traveller’s Health by Dr Richard Dawood
(Oxford University Press), and Travelling
Well by Dr Deborah Mills, available at www
.travellingwell.com.au.
IN TRANSIT
DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT )
Blood clots forming in the legs during plane
flights, chiefly because of prolonged im-
mobility, is known as deep vein thrombosis
(DVT). The longer the flight, the greater
the risk. Though most blood clots are re-
absorbed uneventfully, some may break off
and travel through the blood vessels to the
lungs, where they may cause life-threatening
complications.
IN TRANSIT •• De e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T ) 615
The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or
H E A LT H
pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but
not always on just one side.
When a blood clot travels to the lungs,
the clot may cause chest pain and diffi-
culty breathing. Travellers with any of these
symptoms should immediately seek medi-
cal attention.
To prevent the development of DVT on
long flights you should walk around the
cabin, perform isometric compressions of
the leg muscles (ie contract the leg muscles
while sitting), drink plenty of fluids, and
avoid alcohol and tobacco.
JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
Jet lag is common when crossing more than
five time zones; it results in insomnia, fa-
tigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag
try drinking plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic)
and eating light meals. Upon arrival, seek
exposure to natural sunlight and readjust
your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon
as possible.
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate
(Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert,
Bonine) are usually the first choice for
treating motion sickness. Their main side
effect is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is
ginger, which works like a charm for some
people.
IN MALAYSIA,
SINGAPORE & BRUNEI
AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH
CARE
In Malaysia the standard of medical care in
the major centres is good, and most prob-
lems can be adequately dealt with in Kuala
Lumpur.
Singapore has excellent medical facilities
and acts as the referral centre for most of
Southeast Asia. You cannot buy medica-
tion over the counter without a doctor’s
prescription in Singapore.
In Brunei general care is reasonable.
There is no local medical university, so
expats and foreign-trained locals run the
health care system. Serious or complex
cases are better managed in Singapore, but
adequate primary health care and stabilisa-
tion are available.
 616 I N MA L AY S I A , S I N G A P O R E & B R U N E I • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s
Clinics catering specifically to travellers
H E A LT H
and expatriates are usually more expensive
than local medical facilities, but they offer
a superior standard of care to the traveller
and are aware of the best local hospitals
and specialists. These clinics can also li-
aise with insurance companies should you
require an evacuation.
Recommended clinics are listed under
Information in the capital city sections in
this book. Your embassy and insurance
company are also good contacts.
It can be difficult to find reliable medical
care in rural areas.
Self-treatment may be appropriate if
your problem is minor (eg traveller’s di-
arrhoea), you are carrying the appropriate
medication and you cannot attend a recom-
mended clinic. If you think you may have
a serious disease, especially malaria, don’t
waste time. Travel to the nearest quality
facility to receive attention. It’s always bet-
ter to be assessed by a doctor than to rely
on self-treatment.
INFECTIOUS DISEASES
Cutaneous Larva Migrans
Found in Malaysia and Brunei, and caused
by the dog hookworm, the rash sympto-
matic of cutaneous larva migrans starts
as a small lump, then slowly spreads in a
linear fashion. It’s intensely itchy, espe-
cially at night, but it’s easily treated with
medications; it should not be cut out or
frozen.
Dengue Fever
This mosquito-borne disease is becoming
increasingly problematic throughout Asia,
including Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei,
especially in the cities. As there’s no vac-
cine available, it can only be prevented by
avoiding mosquito bites. The mosquito that
carries dengue bites both day and night, so
use insect avoidance measures at all times.
Symptoms include high fever, severe head-
ache and body ache (dengue was previ-
ously known as ‘breakbone fever’). Some
people develop a rash and experience diar-
rhoea. The southern islands of Thailand are
particularly high risk. There’s no specific
treatment, just rest and paracetamol – don’t
take aspirin as it increases the likelihood of
haemorrhaging. See a doctor to be diag-
nosed and monitored.
www.lonelyplanet.com
Filariasis
Occurring in Malaysia and Brunei, filariasis
is a mosquito-borne disease, very common
in local populations, yet very rare in travel-
lers. Mosquito-avoidance measures are the
best way to prevent this disease.
Hepatitis A
This food- and water-borne virus infects
the liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin
and eyes), nausea and lethargy. There’s no
specific treatment for hepatitis A, you just
need to allow time for the liver to heal.
All travellers to Malaysia, Singapore and
Brunei should be vaccinated against hepa-
titis A.
Hepatitis B
The only sexually transmitted disease that
can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis
B is spread by body fluids, including sexual
contact. In some parts of Asia up to 20% of
the population are carriers of hepatitis B,
and usually are unaware of this. The long-
term consequences can include liver cancer
and cirrhosis.
Hepatitis E
Hepatitis E is transmitted through contami-
nated food and water – has similar symp-
toms to hepatitis A, but is far less common.
It’s a severe problem in pregnant women
and can result in the death of both mother
and baby. There is currently no vaccine, and
prevention is by following safe eating and
drinking guidelines while you’re travelling
in Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei.
HIV
HIV is rapidly increasing through much of
Southeast Asia, including Malaysia, Singa-
pore and Brunei, with heterosexual sex now
the main method of transmission.
Influenza
Present year-round in the tropics, influenza
(flu) gives you a high fever, muscle aches,
a runny nose, a cough and sore throat. Flu
can be very severe in people over the age
of 65 or in those with underlying medical
conditions such as heart disease or diabe-
tes. Vaccination is recommended for these
high-risk individuals travelling in Malaysia,
Singapore and Brunei. There’s no specific
treatment, just rest and paracetamol.
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H E A LT H
SARS
In March 2003 the world’s attention was drawn to the outbreak of an apparently new and seri-
ous respiratory illness that became known as SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome). At the
time of writing SARS appears to have been brought under control. During the outbreak, 8500
cases were confirmed, resulting in 800 deaths. The peak of disease activity was in early May 2003.
The outbreak started in the Chinese province of Guangdong, and numerous cases were reported
in Hong Kong, Vietnam, Singapore and Canada. The World Health Organization soon issued a
global alert to health authorities and the public. Although this helped to bring the disease under
control, it also resulted in widespread panic.
The symptoms of SARS are identical to many other respiratory infections, namely high fever
and cough. There’s no quick test for SARS but certain blood-test and chest X-ray results offer
support for the diagnosis. There’s also no specific treatment available, and death from respiratory
failure occurs in about 10% of patients. Fortunately, it appears it’s not as easy to catch SARS as
was initially thought. Wearing masks has a limited effect and is not generally recommended.
Japanese B Encephalitis Malaria is caused by a parasite transmit-
Rare in travellers, this viral disease transmit- ted through the bite of an infected mos-
ted by mosquitoes is found in Malaysia and quito. The most important symptom of
Brunei. Most cases of Japanese B encepha- malaria is fever, but general symptoms such
litis occur in rural areas and vaccination is as headache, diarrhoea, cough or chills may
recommended for travellers spending more also occur. Diagnosis can be made only by
than one month outside cities. There is no taking a blood sample.
treatment, and a third of infected people Two strategies should be combined to
will die while another third will suffer per- prevent malaria – mosquito avoidance and
manent brain damage. antimalarial medications. Most people who
catch malaria are taking inadequate or no
Leptospirosis antimalarial medication.
Present in Malaysia, leptospirosis is most Travellers are advised to prevent mos-
commonly contracted by travellers after quito bites by taking these steps:
river rafting or canyoning. Early symp- „ Use a DEET-containing insect repellent
toms are very similar to the flu and include on exposed skin. Wash this off at night, as
headache and fever. It can vary from a long as you are sleeping under a mosquito
very mild to a fatal disease. Diagnosis is net treated with permethrin. Natural re-
through blood tests and it is easily treated pellents such as citronella can be effective,
with Doxycycline. but must be applied more frequently than
products containing DEET.
Malaria „ Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated
For such a serious and potentially deadly with permethrin.
disease, there is an enormous amount of „ Choose accommodation with screens
misinformation concerning malaria. You and fans (if not air-con).
must get expert advice as to whether your „ Impregnate clothing with permethrin in
trip actually puts you at risk, especially if high-risk areas.
you will be travelling in Malaysia. Many „ Wear long sleeves and trousers in light
areas, particularly city and resort areas, colours.
have minimal to no risk of malaria, and „ Use mosquito coils.
the risk of side effects from the tablets may „ Spray your room with insect repellent
outweigh the risk of getting the disease. For before going out for your evening meal.
some rural areas, however, the risk of con-
tracting the disease far outweighs the risk There are a variety of antimalarial medica-
of any tablet side effects. Remember that tions available:
malaria can be fatal. Before you travel, seek Artesunate Artesunate derivatives are not suitable as a
medical advice regarding the right medica- preventive medication. They are useful treatments under
tion and dosage for you. medical supervision.
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Chloroquine & Paludrine The effectiveness of this
H E A LT H
combination is now limited in most of Southeast Asia.
Common side effects include nausea (40% of people) and
mouth ulcers. Generally not recommended.
Doxycycline This daily tablet is a broad-spectrum
antibiotic that has the added benefit of helping to prevent
a variety of tropical diseases, including leptospirosis, tick-
borne diseases, typhus and meliodosis. The potential side
effects include photosensitivity (a tendency to sunburn),
thrush in women, indigestion, heartburn, nausea and
interference with the contraceptive pill. More-serious side
effects include ulceration of the oesophagus – you can help
prevent this by taking your tablet with a meal and a large
glass of water, and never lying down within half an hour
of taking it. Must be taken for four weeks after leaving
the risk area.
Lariam (Mefloquine) Lariam has received much bad
press, some of it justified, some not. This weekly tablet
suits many people. Serious side effects are rare but include
depression, anxiety, psychosis and having fits. Anyone with a
history of depression, anxiety, other psychological disorders
or epilepsy should not take Lariam. It’s considered safe in
the second and third trimesters of pregnancy. It’s around
90% effective in most parts of Asia, but there’s significant
resistance in parts of northern Thailand, Laos and Cambodia.
Tablets must be taken for four weeks after leaving the risk area.
Malarone This new drug is a combination of Atovaquone
and Proguanil. Side effects are uncommon and mild, most
commonly nausea and headache. It is the best tablet for
scuba divers and for those on short trips to high-risk areas.
It must be taken for one week after leaving the risk area.
A final option is to take no preventive med-
ication but to have a supply of emergency
medication should you develop the symp-
toms of malaria. This is less than ideal, and
you’ll need to get to a good medical facility
within 24 hours of developing a fever. If you
choose this option the most effective and
safest treatment is Malarone (four tablets
once daily for three days). Other options in-
clude Mefloquine and quinine but the side
effects of these drugs at treatment doses
make them less desirable. Fansidar is no
longer recommended.
Measles
Occurring in Malaysia, this highly con-
tagious bacterial infection is spread via
coughing and sneezing. Most people born
before 1966 are immune, as they had the
disease in childhood. Measles starts with a
high fever and rash and can be complicated
by pneumonia and brain disease. There is
no specific treatment.
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Rabies
This fatal disease, present in Malaysia, is
spread by the bite or lick of an infected
animal – most commonly a dog or monkey.
You should seek medical advice immedi-
ately after any animal bite and commence
post-exposure treatment.
Having pretravel vaccination means the
postbite treatment is greatly simplified.
If an animal bites you, gently wash the
wound with soap and water, and apply an
iodine-based antiseptic. If you are not pre-
vaccinated you will need to receive rabies
immunoglobulin as soon as possible.
STDs
Among the most common sexually trans-
mitted diseases in Southeast Asia, including
Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei, are herpes,
warts, syphilis, gonorrhoea and chlamydia.
People carrying these diseases often have
no signs of infection. Condoms will prevent
gonorrhoea and chlamydia but not warts
or herpes. If after a sexual encounter you
develop any rash, lumps, discharge or pain
when passing urine, seek immediate medi-
cal attention. If you’ve been sexually active
during your travels, have an STD check on
your return home.
Tuberculosis
While TB is rare in travellers in Malaysia
and Brunei, medical and aid workers and
long-term travellers who have significant
contact with the local population should
take precautions. Vaccination is usually
given only to children under the age of
five, but adults at risk are recommended to
have TB testing both before and after travel-
ling. The main symptoms are fever, cough,
weight loss, night sweats and tiredness.
Typhoid
This serious bacterial infection is spread
via food and water and is found in Malay-
sia, Singapore and Brunei. It causes a high,
slowly progressive fever, and a headache,
and may be accompanied by a dry cough
and stomach pain. It’s diagnosed by blood
tests and treated with antibiotics. Vaccina-
tion is recommended for travellers spending
more than a week in the region, or travelling
outside the major cities. Be aware that vacci-
nation is not 100% effective so you must still
be careful with what you eat and drink.
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DRINKING WATER
„ Never drink tap water.
„ Bottled water is generally safe – check
the seal is intact at purchase.
„ Avoid ice.
„ Avoid fresh juices – they may have been
watered down.
„ Boiling water is the most efficient
method of purifying it.
„ The best chemical purifier is iodine. It
should not be used by pregnant women
or those with thyroid problems.
„ Water filters should also filter out
viruses. Ensure your filter has a chemical
barrier such as iodine and a small pore
size, ie less than 4 microns.
Typhus
Murine typhus is spread by the bite of a flea,
whereas scrub typhus is spread via a mite.
Although present in Malaysia, these diseases
are rare in travellers. Symptoms include
fever, muscle pains and a rash. You can
prevent typhus by following general insect-
avoidance measures. Doxycycline will also
prevent it.
TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA
Traveller’s diarrhoea is by far the most com-
mon problem affecting travellers – between
30% and 50% of people will suffer from it
within two weeks of starting their trip. In
over 80% of cases, traveller’s diarrhoea is
caused by a bacteria (there are numerous
potential culprits), and therefore responds
promptly to treatment with antibiotics.
Treatment with antibiotics will depend on
your situation – how sick you are, how
quickly you need to get better, where you
are etc. Traveller’s diarrhoea is defined
as the passage of more than three watery
bowel-actions within 24 hours, plus at least
one other symptom such as fever, cramps,
nausea, vomiting or feeling generally un-
well. Treatment consists of staying well hy-
drated; rehydration solutions like Gastrolyte
are the best for this. Antibiotics such as
Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin or Azithromy-
cin will kill the bacteria quickly.
Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ and
doesn’t get to the cause of the problem.
It can be helpful, for example if you have
H E A LT H
to go on a long bus ride. Don’t take Lop-
eramide if you have a fever, or blood in
your stools. Seek medical attention quickly
if you do not respond to an appropriate
antibiotic.
Amoebic Dysentery
Amoebic dysentery is very rare in travel-
lers but is often misdiagnosed by poor-
quality labs in Asia. Symptoms are similar
to bacterial diarrhoea, ie fever, bloody di-
arrhoea and generally feeling unwell. You
should always seek reliable medical care if
you have blood in your diarrhoea. Treat-
ment involves two drugs – Tinidazole or
Metronidazole to kill the parasite in your
gut and then a second drug to kill the cysts.
If left untreated, complications such as liver
abscess and abscess in the gut can occur.
Giardiasis
Giardia is a parasite that is relatively com-
mon in travellers. Symptoms include
nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue and
intermittent diarrhoea. ‘Eggy’ burps are
often attributed solely to Giardia, but work
in Nepal has shown that they are not spe-
cific to Giardia. The parasite will eventually
go away if left untreated but this can take
months. The treatment of choice is Tinida-
zole, with Metronidazole being a second-
line option.
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS
Air Pollution
Air pollution, particularly vehicle pollution,
is an increasing problem in most of Asia’s
major cities. If you have severe respiratory
problems, speak with your doctor before
travelling to any heavily polluted urban
centres. Air pollution can cause minor
respiratory problems such as sinusitis, dry
throat and irritated eyes. If troubled by the
pollution, leave the city for a few days to get
some fresh air.
Diving
Divers and surfers should seek specialised
advice before they travel, to ensure their
medical kit contains treatment for coral
cuts and tropical ear infections, as well
as the standard problems. Divers should
ensure their insurance covers them for
decompression illness – get specialised dive
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include weakness, nausea, a hot dry body fection (for other details see also the boxed
H E A LT H

H E A LT H
THAT CLINGING FEELING with a body temperature of over 41°C, text, opposite).
dizziness, confusion, loss of coordination, Bee and wasp stings mainly cause prob-
On any rainforest walk, the subject of leeches invariably comes up. Actually, you may not en- fits, and eventual collapse and loss of con- lems for people who are allergic to them.
counter any of these slimy little vampires while walking through the Malaysian jungle, but if the sciousness. Seek medical help and com- Anyone with a serious bee or wasp allergy
trail is leafy and it’s been raining, chances are you’ll be preyed upon. mence cooling by getting the sufferer out should carry an injection of adrenaline (eg
The local leeches are maddeningly tiny – so small, in fact, they can squeeze through tight-knit of the heat, removing their clothes, fanning an EpiPen) for emergency treatment. For
socks. They don’t stay tiny for long, however, since once a leech has attached to your skin, it won’t them and applying cool, wet cloths or ice others, pain is the main problem – apply ice
let go until it has sucked as much blood as it can hold. Only then will the bloated, sated little to their body, especially to the groin and to the sting and take painkillers.
parasite release itself and make its way back to the forest floor. Your souvenir of the experience armpits. Most jellyfish in Southeast Asian waters
will be bloody, but consider it a flesh wound. Prickly heat is a common skin rash in are not dangerous, just irritating. First aid
Two species are common: the brown leech and the tiger leech. The tiger leech is recognisable the tropics, caused by sweat being trapped for jellyfish stings involves pouring vinegar
by its cream and black stripes, but you’ll probably feel one before you see it. Unlike the brown under the skin. The result is an itchy rash onto the affected area to neutralise the poi-
leech, whose suction is painless, tiger leeches sting a bit. Brown leeches hang around on, or near, of tiny lumps. If you develop prickly heat, son. Don’t rub sand or water onto the stings.
the forest floor, waiting to grab onto passing boots or pants. Tiger leeches lurk on the leaves of treat it by moving out of the heat and into Take painkillers, and anyone who feels ill
small trees and tend to attack between the waist and neck, and that can mean any orifice there an air-conditioned area for a few hours in any way after being stung should seek
and around. Keep your shirt tucked in. and by having cool showers. Creams and medical advice. Take local advice if there
Leeches are harmless, but bites can become infected. Prevention is better than the cure and ointments clog the skin so they should be are dangerous jellyfish around, and keep out
opinion varies on what works best. Insect repellent on feet, shoes and socks works temporarily; avoided. Locally bought prickly heat powder of the water.
loose tobacco in your shoes and socks also helps – Kelabit hunters swear by it. Better yet, invest can be helpful.
in some leech-proof socks, which are a kind of tropical gaiter that covers the foot and boot heel Tropical fatigue is common in long-term Parasites
and fastens below the knees. expatriates based in the tropics. It’s rarely Numerous parasites are common in local
Safe and effective ways to dislodge leeches include flicking them off sideways (pulling a leech due to disease but is caused by the climate, populations in Southeast Asia; but, most of
off by the tail might make it dig in harder), burning them with a cigarette (though you may burn inadequate mental rest, excessive alcohol these are rare in travellers. The two rules to
yourself as well), or sprinkling salt on them. Tiger balm, iodine or medicated menthol oil (a com- intake and the demands of daily work in a follow to avoid parasitic infections are to
mon brand is the Axe Brand Universal Oil) will also get leeches off. High-pitched screaming doesn’t different culture. wear shoes and to avoid eating raw food, es-
seem to affect them much. Succumb to your fate as a reluctant blood donor and they will eventu- pecially fish, pork and vegetables. A number
ally drop off. Insect Bites & Stings of parasites are transmitted via the skin by
Bedbugs don’t carry disease but their bites walking barefoot, including strongyloides,
are very itchy. They live in the cracks of hookworm and cutaneous larva migrans.
insurance through an organisation such as is common, as are muscle cramps caused by furniture and walls and then migrate to
DAN (Divers Alert Network; www.danseap.org). Have excessive sweating. Prevent these by avoid- the bed at night to feed on you. You can Skin Problems
a dive medical before you leave your home ing dehydration and too much activity in treat the itch with an antihistamine. Lice Fungal rashes are common in humid cli-
country – there are certain medical condi- the heat. Take it easy when you first arrive. inhabit various parts of your body but mates. There are two common fungal rashes
tions that are incompatible with diving, Don’t eat salt tablets (they aggravate the gut), most commonly your head and pubic area. that affect travellers. The first occurs in moist
and economic considerations may override but drinking rehydration solution or eating They can be difficult to treat and you may areas that get less air such as the groin, arm-
health considerations at some dive opera- salty food helps. Treat cramps by stopping need numerous applications of an anti-lice pits and between the toes. It starts as a red
tions in Asia. activity, resting, rehydrating with double- shampoo such as permethrin. Transmission patch that slowly spreads and is usually
strength rehydration solution and gently is via close contact with an infected per- itchy. Treatment involves keeping the skin
Food stretching. son. Pubic lice are usually contracted from dry, avoiding chafing and using an antifungal
Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk factor Dehydration is the main contributor to sexual contact. cream such as Clotrimazole or Lamisil. Tinea
for contracting traveller’s diarrhoea. Ways to heat exhaustion. Symptoms include feel- Ticks are contracted after walking in the versicolour is also common – this fungus
avoid it include eating only freshly cooked ing weak, headache, irritability, nausea or bush. Ticks are commonly found behind causes small, light-coloured patches, most
food and avoiding shellfish and food that vomiting, sweaty skin, a fast, weak pulse the ears, on the belly and in armpits. If you commonly on the back, chest and shoulders.
has been sitting around in buffets. Peel all and a slightly elevated body temperature. have had a tick bite and experience symp- Consult a doctor.
fruit, cook vegetables, and soak salads in Treatment involves getting the victim out toms such as a rash at the site of the bite Cuts and scratches become easily infected
iodine water for at least 20 minutes. Eat in of the heat and/or sun, fanning them and or elsewhere, a fever, or muscle aches you in humid climates. Take meticulous care of
busy restaurants with a high turnover of applying cool wet cloths to the skin, laying should see a doctor. Doxycycline prevents any cuts and scratches to prevent complica-
customers. the victim flat with their legs raised and tick-borne diseases. tions such as abscesses. Immediately wash
rehydrating with water containing a quarter Leeches are generally found in humid all wounds in clean water and apply an-
Heat of a teaspoon of salt per litre. Recovery is rainforest areas. They do not transmit any tiseptic. If you develop signs of infection
The Southeast Asian region is mostly hot usually rapid although it’s common to feel disease but their bites are often intensely (increasing pain and redness), see a doc-
and humid throughout the year. Most peo- weak for some days afterwards. itchy for weeks afterwards and can easily tor. Divers and surfers should be particu-
ple take at least two weeks to adapt to the Heatstroke is a serious medical emer- become infected. Apply iodine-based anti- larly careful with coral cuts as they become
hot climate. Swelling of the feet and ankles gency. Symptoms come on suddenly and septic to any leech bite to help prevent in- easily infected.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
622 I N MA L AY S I A , S I N G A P O R E & B R U N E I • • T r a v e l l i n g w i t h C h i l d re n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N MA L AY S I A , S I N G A P O R E & B R U N E I • • W o m e n ’ s H e a l t h 623

plications such as premature labour and Traveller’s diarrhoea can quickly lead to
H E A LT H

H E A LT H
TRADITIONAL & FOLK MEDICINE high blood pressure are possible. It’s wise dehydration and result in inadequate blood
Throughout Asia, traditional medical systems are widely practised. There is a big difference be- to travel with a companion. Always carry flow to the placenta. Many of the drugs
tween these traditional healing systems and ‘folk’ medicine. Folk remedies should be avoided, a list of quality medical facilities available used to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not
as they often involve rather dubious procedures with potential complications. In comparison, at your destination and ensure you con- recommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin
traditional healing systems, such as traditional Chinese medicine, are well respected, and aspects tinue your standard antenatal care at these is considered safe.
of them are being increasingly utilised by Western medical practitioners. facilities. Avoid travel in rural areas with In urban areas, supplies of sanitary prod-
All traditional Asian medical systems identify a vital life force, and see blockage or imbalance poor transport and medical facilities. Most ucts are readily available. Birth-control
as causing disease. Techniques such as herbal medicines, massage and acupuncture bring this of all, ensure travel insurance covers all options may be limited so bring adequate
vital force back into balance or maintain balance. These therapies are best used for treating pregnancy-related possibilities, including supplies of your own form of contracep-
chronic disease such as chronic fatigue, arthritis, irritable bowel syndrome and some chronic premature labour. tion. Heat, humidity and antibiotics can all
skin conditions. Traditional medicines should be avoided for treating serious acute infections Malaria is a high-risk disease in preg- contribute to thrush. Treatment is with an-
such as malaria. nancy. The World Health Organization tifungal creams and pessaries such as Clot-
Be aware that ‘natural’ doesn’t always mean ‘safe’, and there can be drug interactions between recommends that pregnant women do rimazole. A practical alternative is a single
herbal medicines and Western medicines. If you are using both systems, ensure you inform both not travel to areas with malaria resistant tablet of Fluconazole (Diflucan). Urinary-
practitioners as to what the other has prescribed. to Chloroquine. None of the more effec- tract infections can be precipitated by dehy-
tive antimalarial drugs is completely safe in dration or long bus journeys without toilet
pregnancy. stops; bring suitable antibiotics.
Snakes eases that have been eliminated in the West
Southeast Asia is home to many species of are still present in parts of Southeast Asia.
poisonous and harmless snakes. Assume A travel-health clinic can advise on specific
all snakes are poisonous and never try to vaccines, but think seriously about rabies
catch one. Always wear boots and long vaccination if you’re visiting rural areas or
pants if walking in an area that may have travelling for more than a month, as children
snakes. First aid in the event of a snake are more vulnerable to severe animal bites.
bite involves pressure immobilisation via an Children are more prone to getting seri-
elastic bandage firmly wrapped around the ous forms of mosquito-borne diseases such
affected limb, starting at the bite site and as malaria, Japanese B encephalitis and
working up towards the chest. The bandage dengue fever. In particular, malaria is very
should not be so tight that the circulation serious in children and can rapidly lead to
is cut off; the fingers or toes should be kept death – you should think seriously before
free so the circulation can be checked. Im- taking your child into a malaria-risk area.
mobilise the limb with a splint and carry Permethrin-impregnated clothing is safe to
the victim to medical attention. Don’t use use, and insect repellents should contain
tourniquets or try to suck out the venom. between 10% and 20% DEET.
Antivenin is available for most species. Diarrhoea can cause rapid dehydration
and you should pay particular attention to
Sunburn keeping your child well hydrated. The best
Even on a cloudy day, sunburn can occur antibiotic for children with diarrhoea is
rapidly. Always use a strong sunscreen (at Azithromycin.
least factor 15), making sure to reapply after Children can get very sick very quickly so
a swim, and always wear a wide-brimmed locate good medical facilities at your desti-
hat and sunglasses outdoors. Avoid lying nation and make contact if you are worried –
in the sun during the hottest part of it’s always better to get a medical opinion
the day (10am to 2pm). If you’re sunburnt, than to try to treat your own children.
stay out of the sun until you’ve recovered,
apply cool compresses and take painkill- WOMEN’S HEALTH
ers for the discomfort. Applied twice daily, Pregnant women should receive specialised
1% hydrocortisone cream is also helpful. advice before travelling. The ideal time to
travel is in the second trimester (between
TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN 16 and 28 weeks), when the risk of preg-
There are specific issues you should con- nancy-related problems is at its lowest and
sider before travelling with your child. pregnant women generally feel at their best.
All routine vaccinations should be up to During the first trimester there’s a risk of
date, as many of the common childhood dis- miscarriage and in the third trimester com-
 © Lonely Planet Publications
624
Language
CONTENTS
Pronunciation
Accommodation
Conversation & Essentials
Directions
Health
LANGUAGE
Emergencies
Language Difficulties
Numbers
Paperwork
Question Words
Shopping & Services
Time & Dates
Transport
Travel with Children
Bahasa Malaysia (also known simply as
Malay and, officially, as Bahasa Melayu)
and Bahasa Indonesia are virtually the same
language; only a few differences in vocabu-
lary distinguish the two. Many of these
differences are in the loan words – English-
based for Malay and Dutch-based for Indo-
nesian. If you’re coming from Indonesia
and have developed some proficiency in the
language, you may initially be confused by
Malay pronunciation. Bahasa Indonesia is
a second language for most Indonesians –
pronunciation is learnt in schools and thus
tends to remain fairly standard. Bahasa Ma-
laysia, however, is subject to a greater de-
gree of regional variation in pronunciation
and slang – so much so that a Malaysian
from Negeri Sembilan may have difficulty
understanding someone from Kelantan.
In its most basic form, Malay is very sim-
ple. Verbs aren’t conjugated for tense; the
notion of time is indicated by the use of ad-
verbs such as ‘yesterday’ or ‘tomorrow’. For
example, you can change any sentence into
the past tense by simply adding sudah (al-
ready). Many nouns are pluralised by simply
saying them twice – thus buku is ‘book’,
buku-buku is ‘books’, anak is ‘child’, anak-
anak is ‘children’. There are no articles (a, an,
the). Thus ‘a good book’ or ‘the good book’
is simply buku baik. There is no verb ‘to be’,
so again it would be buku baik rather than
‘the book is good’. Malay is also a very poetic
and evocative language – ‘the sun’, for exam-
ple, is matahari, or ‘the eye of the day’.
624 Many Malay terms have found their way
625 into the everyday English of Malaysia.
626 You’ll often see the word bumiputra (liter-
626 ally ‘sons of the soil’) in English-language
627 newspapers, usually in ads for positions va-
627 cant; it’s a term used to indicate that the job
627 is open only to ‘native’ Malays, not Indian
628 Malaysians or Chinese Malaysians. Simi-
628 larly, you may see English-language articles
628 about jaga keretas, the people who operate
car-parking rackets – pay them to ‘protect’
628
your car while it’s parked or you’ll wish you
629
had. Another expression is khalwat (liter-
629
630 ally ‘close proximity’) – unmarried Muslim
couples definitely do not wish to find them-
selves suspected of khalwat!
For a more comprehensive guide to the
language, get hold of Lonely Planet’s Malay
Phrasebook. It’s a handy pocket-sized intro-
duction to the language.
PRONUNCIATION
Most letters are pronounced the same as
their English counterparts, although a few
vowels and consonants differ.
Vowels
a as the ‘u’ in ‘hut’
e a neutral vowel like the ‘a’ in ‘ago’
when unstressed, eg besar (big);
when the stress falls on e it’s more
like the ‘a’ in ‘may’, eg meja (table).
Unfortunately, there’s no single rule
to determine whether e is stressed or
unstressed.
i as in ‘hit’
o as in ‘note’
u as in ‘flute’
ai as in ‘aisle’
au a drawn out ‘ow’, as in ‘cow’
ua each vowel is pronounced, as ‘oo-a’
Consonants
c always as the ‘ch’ in ‘chair’
g always hard, as in ‘go’
ng as the ‘ng’ in ‘singer’
ngg as ‘ng’ + ‘g’ (as in ‘anger’)
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SINGLISH
One of the most intriguing things the visitor to Singapore will notice is the strange patois spoken
by the locals. Nominally English, it contains borrowed words from Hokkien and Malay, such as
shiok (delicious) and kasar (rough). Unnecessary prepositions and pronouns are dropped, word
order is flipped, phrases are clipped short, and stress and cadence are unconventional, to say the
least. The result is known locally as Singlish. Singlish is frowned upon in official use, though you’ll
get a good idea of its pervasive pronunciation characteristics if you listen to the news bulletins on
TV or the radio.
While there isn’t such a thing as Singlish grammar, there are definite characteristics. First off,
there’s the reverse stress pattern of double-barrelled words. For example, in standard English the
stress would be ‘fire-fighter’ or ‘theatre company’ but in Singlish it’s ‘fire-fighter’ and ‘theatre company’.
Word-final consonants – particularly l or k – are often dropped and vowels are often distorted; a
LANGUAGE
Chinese-speaking taxi driver might not understand ‘Perak Road’ since they pronounce it ‘Pera Roh’.
The particle lah is often tagged on to the end of sentences as in, ‘No good, lah’, which could mean
(among other things) ‘I don’t think that’s such a good idea’. Requests or questions will often be
marked with a tag ending since direct questioning is considered rude. So a question such as ‘Would
you like a beer?’ might be rendered as ‘You want beer or not?’, which might come across to speakers
of Western English as being extremely rude. Verb tenses tend to be nonexistent; future, present or
past actions are all indicated by time phrases, so in Singlish it’s ‘I go tomorrow’ or ‘I go yesterday’.
The following are some of the most frequently heard Singlishisms:
ah beng – unsophisticated person with no fashion kambing – foolish person, literally ‘goat’ (Malay)
sense or style; red neck kena ketuk – literally ‘get knocked’; ripped off
Aiyah! – ‘Oh, dear!’ kiasee – scared, literally ‘afraid to die’; a coward
Alamak! – exclamation of disbelief, frustration or kiasu – literally ‘afraid to lose’; selfish, pushy, always
dismay, like ‘Oh my God!’ on the lookout for a bargain
ayam – Malay word for chicken; adjective for something lah – generally an ending for any phrase or sentence;
inferior or weak can translate as ‘OK’, but has no real meaning; added for
blur – a slow or uninformed person emphasis to just about everything
buaya – womaniser, from the Malay for crocodile looksee – take a look
Can? – ‘Is that OK?’ malu – embarrassed
Can! – ‘Yes! That’s fine.’ minah – girlfriend
char bor – babe, woman Or not? – general suffix for questions, as in ‘Can or not?’
cheena – old-fashioned Chinese in dress or thinking (Can you or can’t you?)
(derogatory) see first – wait and see what happens
go stan – to reverse, as in ‘Go stan the car’ (from the shack – tired
naval expression ‘go astern’; pronounced ‘go stun’) shiok – good, great, delicious
heng – luck, good fortune (Hokkien) steady lah – well done, excellent; expression of praise
hiao – vain Wah! – general exclamation of surprise or distress
inggrish – English ya ya – boastful, as in ‘He always ya ya’
j
as in ‘join’ Word Stress
r pronounced clearly and distinctly In Malay words, most syllables carry equal
emphasis, but a good rule of thumb is to put
h as the English ‘h’ but slightly stronger
stress on the second-last syllable. The main
(like a sigh); at the end of a word it’s
almost silent exception is the unstressed e in words such
as besar (big), pronounced ‘be-SAR’.
k as English ‘k’, except at the end of the
word, when it’s more like a glottal
stop (ie the ‘nonsound’ created by
ACCOMMODATION
I’m looking for a ... Saya mencari ...
the momentary closing of the throat guesthouse rumah tetamu
before each syllable in the expression hotel hotel
‘oh-oh!’) youth hostel asrama belia
ny as in ‘canyon’ bed katil
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MAKING A RESERVATION
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS SIGNS
I’m ... Saya ...
Hello. Helo. asthmatic sakit lelah
(for phone or written inquiries) Good morning. Selamat pagi. Masuk Entrance diabetic sakit kencing manis
Good day. (said Selamat tengah hari. Keluar Exit epileptic sakit gila babi
To ... Ke ... around midday) Pertanyaan Information pregnant hamil
From ... Daripada ... Good afternoon. Selamat petang. Buka Open
I’d like to book ... Saya nak tempah ... (see Good night. Selamat malam. Tutup Closed antiseptic antiseptik
the list under ‘Accom- Dilarang Prohibited condoms kondom
Goodbye. (said by Selamat tinggal.
modation’ for bed and Di Larang Merokok No Smoking contraceptive kontraseptif or pencegah hamil
person leaving)
room options) Bahaya Danger diarrhoea cirit-birit
Goodbye. (said by Selamat jalan.
Ada Bilik Kosong Rooms Available
for the nights of ... untuk malam ... person staying)
fever demam panas
in the name of ... atas nama ... Penuh/Tak Ada Full/No Vacancies headache sakit kepala
Yes. Ya. Bilik Kosong medicine ubat
LANGUAGE

LANGUAGE
credit card kad kredit No. Tidak. Polis Police sunblock cream krim pelindung cahaya matahari
type jenis Please. Tolong/Silakan. Balai Polis Police Station pill/tablet pil/tablet
number nombor Thank you (very Terima kasih (banyak). Tandas Toilets quinine kina/kuinin
expiry date tempoh tamat much). Lelaki Men sanitary napkins tuala wanita
That’s fine/ Boleh/Sama-sama. Perempuan Women sleeping pills pil tidur
Please confirm Tolong sahkan You’re welcome.
availability and price. tempahan dan harga. Panas Hot tampons tampon
Excuse me, ... Maaf, ... Sejuk Cold
Sorry/Pardon. Maaf. Tarik Pull
Where is a cheap hotel? I’m sorry. (forgive me) Minta maaf. Tolak Push EMERGENCIES
Di mana ada hotel yang murah? How are you? Apa khabar? Help! Tolong!
What is the address? Fine thanks. Khabar baik. There’s been an Ada kemalangan!
north utara
Apakah alamatnya? What’s your name? Siapa nama kamu? accident!
south selatan
Could you write the address, please? My name is ... Nama saya ... east timur I’m lost. Saya sesat.
Tolong tuliskan alamat itu? Where are you from? Dari mana asal saudara? Go away! Pergi!
west barat
Do you have any rooms available? I’m from ... Saya dari ... Stop! Berhenti!
Ada bilik kosong? How old are you? Berapa umur saudara? beach pantai I’ve been robbed! Saya dirompak!
I’d like to share a dorm. I’m (20 years old). Umur saya (dua puluh tahun). bridge jambatan
Saya nak berkongsi (bilik hostel/asrama). I like ... Saya suka ... island pulau Call ...! Panggil ...!
I don’t like ... Saya tidak suka ... mosque masjid a doctor doktor
I’d like a ... Saya hendakkan ... Just a minute. Sebentar/Sekejap. museum muzium an ambulance ambulans
single room bilik untuk satu orang Good/Very nice. Bagus. palace istana
double room bilik untuk dua orang Good/Fine. Baik. ruins
room with two beds bilik yang ada dua katil No good. Tidak baik.
runtuhan LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES
sea laut Do you speak English?
room with air-con bilik dengan alat hawa dingin square dataran Bolehkah anda berbicara bahasa Inggeris?/
room with a fan bilik dengan kipas DIRECTIONS Adaka anda berbahasa Inggeris?
room with bilik dengan bilik mandi Where is ...? Di mana ... HEALTH Does anyone here speak English?
a bathroom Which way? Ke mana? Where is a ... Di mana ada ... Ada orang yang berbahasa Inggeris di sini?
Go straight ahead. Jalan terus. chemist/pharmacy apotik/farmasi How do you say ... in Malay?
How much is it ...? Berapa harga ...? Turn left. Belok kiri. dentist doktor gigi Macam mana cakap ... dalam Bahasa Melayu?
per night satu malam Turn right. Belok kanan. doctor doktor What does ... mean?
per week satu seminggu at the corner di simpang hospital hospital Apa ertinya ...?
per person satu orang at the traffic lights di tempat lampu isyarat I understand.
at the T-junction di simpang tiga I’m ill. Saya sakit. Saya faham.
May I see it? behind di belakang It hurts here. Sini sakit. I don’t understand.
Boleh saya lihat biliknya? in front of di hadapan Saya tidak faham.
Where is the bathroom? next to di samping/di sebelah I’m allergic to ... Saya alergik kepada ... Please write it down.
Bilik mandi di mana? opposite berhadapan dengan antibiotics antibiotik Tolong tuliskan.
I (don’t) like this room. near dekat aspirin aspirin Please write that word down.
Saya (tidak) suka bilik ini. far jauh penicillin penisilin Tolong tuliskan perkataan itu.
I’m/We’re leaving today. here di sini bees lebah Please repeat it.
Saya/Kami nak mendaftar keluar hari ini. there di sana nuts kacang Tolong ulangi.
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Can you show me (on the map)? SHOPPING & SERVICES TIME & DATES
Tolong tunjukkan (di peta)? ROAD SIGNS
I’d like to buy ... Saya nak beli ... What time is it? Pukul berapa?
How much (is it)? Berapa (harganya)? (It’s) 7 o’clock. Pukul tujuh. Beri Jalan Give Way
NUMBERS I don’t like it. Saya tak suka ini. When? Bila? Lencongan Detour
0 kosong/sifar May I look at it? Boleh saya lihat barang itu? in the morning pagi Dilarang Masuk No Entry
1 satu I’m just looking. Saya nak tengok saja. in the afternoon tengahari Tidak Boleh No Overtaking
2 dua It’s cheap. Murah. in the evening petang Memotong
3 tiga It’s too expensive. Mahalnya. Dilarang Letak No Parking
at night malam
4 empat Can you lower the Boleh kurang sedikit? Kereta
today hari ini
5 lima price? Masuk Entrance
tomorrow besok/esok
Kosongkan Keep Clear
6 enam No more than ... Tak lebih daripada ...
7 tujuh
yesterday semalam Jalan Tol Toll Way
That’s a good price. Harganya dah murah. How long? Berapa lama?
8 delapan/lapan I’ll take it. Saya nak beli ini. Plaza Tol Toll Gate
LANGUAGE

LANGUAGE
9 sembilan hour jam Bahaya Danger
10 sepuluh week minggu Perlahan-Perlahan Slow Down
Do you accept ...? Boleh bayar dengan ...?
11 sebelas credit cards kad kredit
year tahun Jalan Sehala One Way
12 dua belas travellers cheques cek kembara Keluar Exit
13 tiga belas Monday hari Isnin
14 empat belas more lebih banyak Tuesday hari Selasa
Wednesday hari Rabu
I want to go to ...
15 lima belas less kurang Saya nak ke ...
16 enam belas big besar Thursday hari Khamis
How can I get to ...?
17 tujuh belas bigger lebih besar Friday hari Jumaat
Bagaimana saya pergi ke ...?
18 lapan belas small kecil Saturday hari Sabtu
How many kilometres?
19 sembilan belas smaller lebih kecil Sunday hari Minggu
Berapa kilometer?
20 dua puluh this ini The (train/bus) has been delayed.
21 dua puluh satu that itu January Januari
Kereta api/bas itu telah terlambat.
22 dua puluh dua February Februari The (train/bus) has been cancelled.
30 tiga puluh I’m looking for Saya nak cari ... March Mac Kereta api/bas itu telah dibatalkan.
40 empat puluh a/the ... April April
50 lima puluh bank bank May Mei
60 enam puluh the first (bus) (bas) pertama
barber tukang cukur June Jun
70 tujuh puluh the last (train) keretapi terakhir
bookshop kedai buku July Julai
80 lapan puluh airport lapangan terbang
city centre pusat bandar August Ogos
90 sembilan puluh chemist/pharmacy apotik/farmasi bus station stesen bas
September September bus stop perhentian bas
100 seratus ... embassy kedutaan besar ... October Oktober
200 dua ratus grocery kedai makanan platform number nombor platform
November November rickshaw/trishaw beca
1000 seribu market pasar December Disember
2000 dua ribu night market pasar malam ticket office pejabat tiket
police station stesen polis ticket window (tempat/kaunter) tikit
PAPERWORK post office pejabat pos
TRANSPORT timetable jadual
name nama public telephone telepon umum
Public Transport train station stesen keretapi
nationality bangsa
What time does Pukul berapakah ...
public toilet tandas awam
date of birth tarikh lahir shop kedai
the ... leave? berangkat? Private Transport
place of birth tempat kelahiran tempat lahir shopping centre pusat membeli-belah boat bot I’d like to hire a/an ... Saya nak menyewa ...
sex/gender jantina telephone centre pusat telefon bus bas car kereta
passport pasport tourist office pejabat pelancong plane kapal terbang 4WD 4WD
visa visa ship kapal motorbike motosikal
I want to change ... Saya nak tukar wang ... train keretapi bicycle basikal
QUESTION WORDS money (cash) wang tunai
Who? Siapakah? travellers cheques cek kembara I’d like a ... ticket. Saya nak tiket ... Is this the road to ...? Inikah jalan ke ...?
What? Apa? one-way sehala Where’s a service Stesen minyak di mana?
When? Bilakah? What time does it open/close? return pergi-balik station?
Where? Di mana? Pukul berapa buka/tutup? 1st class kelas satu Please fill it up. Tolong penuhkan tangki.
How? Berapa? I want to call ... 2nd class kelas dua I’d like (30) litres. Saya nak (30) liter.
Which? Yang mana? Saya mau menelefon ... economy class kelas ekonomi petrol minyak/petrol
 © Lonely Planet Publications
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diesel disel TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN

leaded petrol petrol plumbum Do you have a/an ...? Ada ...?
unleaded petrol tanpa plumbum I need a/an ... Saya perlukan ...
baby change room bilik salin bayi
(How long) Can I park here? car baby seat tempat duduk bayi
(Beberapa lama) Boleh saya letak kereta di sini? child-minding penjagaan anak
Where do I pay? service
Di mana tempat membayar? children’s menu menu kanak-kanak
I need a mechanic. (disposable) (pakai buang)
Kami memerlukan mekanik. nappies/diapers kain lampin
The car/motorbike has broken down (at ...) formula (milk) (susu) rumusan bayi
Kereta/motosikal saya telah rosak (di ...) (English-speaking) penjaga anak (yang tahu
LANGUAGE

The car/motorbike won’t start. babysitter bercakap dalam Bahasa

Kereta/motosikal saya tidak dapat dihidupkan. Inggeris)
I have a flat tyre. highchair kerusi tinggi
Tayarnya kempis. potty bekas najis
I’ve run out of petrol. stroller kereta tolak bayi
Minyak sudah habis.
I’ve had an accident. Are children allowed?
Saya terlibat dalam kemalangan. Adakah kanak-kanak dibenarkan masuk?

LANGUAGE
Also available from Lonely Planet:
Malay Phrasebook
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630 631

Glossary
See p77 for culinary terms. gua – cave
gunung – mountain
adat – Malay customary law
adat temenggong – Malay law with Indian modifica- hilir – lower reaches of a river
tions, governing the customs and ceremonies of the sultans hutan – jungle; forest
air – water
air terjun – waterfall imam – keeper of Islamic knowledge and leader of prayer
alor – groove; furrow; main channel of a river istana – palace
ampang – dam
ang pow – red packets of money used as offerings, pay- jalan – road
ment or gifts
APEC – Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation kain songket – traditional Malay handwoven fabric with
arak – Malay local alcohol gold threads
arrack – see arak kampung – village; also spelt kampong
Asean – Association of Southeast Asian Nations kangkar – Chinese village
atap – roof thatching karst – characteristic scenery of a limestone region, includ-
ing features such as underground streams and caverns
Baba-Nonya – descendants of Chinese immigrants to kedai kopi – coffee shop
the Straits Settlements (namely Melaka, Singapore and kerangas – distinctive vegetation zone of Borneo,
Penang) who intermarried with Malays and adopted usually found on sandstone, containing pitcher plants and

GLOSSARY
many Malay customs; also known as Peranakan, or Straits other unusual flora
Chinese; sometimes spelt Nyonya khalwat – literally, close proximity; exhibition of public af-
Bahasa Malaysia – Malay language; also known as fection between the sexes, which is prohibited for unmarried
Bahasa Melayu Muslim couples
bandar – seaport; town kongsi – Chinese clan organisations, also known as ritual
Bangsawan – Malay opera brotherhoods, heaven-man-earth societies, triads or secret
batang – stem; tree trunk; the main branch of a river societies; meeting house for Chinese of the same clan
batik – technique of imprinting cloth with dye to produce kopi tiam – coffee shop (Singapore)
multicoloured patterns kota – fort; city
batu – stone; rock; milepost kramat – Malay shrine
belukar – secondary forest KTM – Keretapi Tanah Melayu; Malaysian Railways System
bendahara – chief minister kuala – river mouth; place where a tributary joins a
bendang – irrigated land larger river
bomoh – spiritual healer
British Resident – chief British representative during the laksamana – admiral
colonial era langur – small, usually tree-dwelling monkey
bukit – hill laut – sea
bumboat – motorised sampan lebuh – street
bumiputra – literally, sons of the soil; indigenous Malays Lebuhraya – expressway or freeway; usually refers to
bunga raya – hibiscus flower (national flower of Malaysia) the North-South Highway, which runs from Johor Bahru
to Bukit Kayu Hitam at the Thai border
dadah – drugs lorong – narrow street; alley
dato’, datuk – literally, grandfather; general male LRT – Light Rail Transit (Kuala Lumpur)
nonroyal title of distinction lubuk – deep pool
dipterocarp – family of trees, native to Malaysia, that have
two-winged fruits macaque – any of several small species of monkey
dusun – small town; orchard; fruit grove mandi – bathe; Southeast Asian wash basin
masjid – mosque
genting – mountain pass MCP – Malayan Communist Party
godown – river warehouse Melayu Islam Beraja – MIB; Brunei’s national ideology
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632 GLOSSARY 633

merdeka – independence rimba – jungle

Merlion – half-lion, half-fish animal; symbol of Singapore rotan – cane used to punish miscreants
MRT – Mass Rapid Transit (Singapore)
muara – river mouth sampan – small boat
muezzin – mosque official who calls the faithful to samsu – Malay alcohol
prayer sarung – all-purpose cloth, often sewn into a tube, and
worn by women, men and children; also spelt sarong
negara – country seberang – opposite side of road; far bank of a river
negeri – state selat – strait
Nonya – see Baba-Nonya semenanjung – peninsula
silat – see pencak silat
orang asing – foreigner simpang – crossing; junction
Orang Asli – literally, Original People; Malaysian abori- songkok – traditional Malay headdress worn by males
gines Straits Chinese – see Baba-Nonya
Orang Laut – literally, Coastal People sungai – river
Orang Ulu – literally, Upriver People syariah – Islamic system of law

padang – grassy area; field; also the city square tambang – river ferry; fare
pantai – beach tamu – weekly market
PAP – People’s Action Party tanah – land
parang – long jungle knife tanjung – headland
PAS – Parti Islam se-Malaysia tasik – lake
pasar – market teluk – bay; sometimes spelt telok
pasar malam – night market temenggong – Malay administrator
Pejabat Residen – Resident’s Office towkang – Chinese junk
GLOSSARY

pekan – market place; town tuai rumah – longhouse chief (Sarawak)

pelabuhan – port tuak – local ‘firewater’ alcohol (Malaysian Borneo)
pencak silat – martial-arts dance form tunku – prince
penghulu – chief or village head
pengkalan – quay ujung – cape
Peranakan – literally, half-caste; refers to the Baba- UMNO – United Malays National Organisation
Nonya or Straits Chinese
PIE – Pan-Island Expressway, one of Singapore’s main road warung – small eating stalls
arteries wayang – Chinese opera
pua kumbu – traditional finely woven cloth wayang kulit – shadow-puppet theatre
pulau – island wisma – office block or shopping centre
puteri – princess
yang di-pertuan agong – Malaysia’s head of state, or
raja – prince; ruler ‘king’
rakyat – common people yang di-pertuan besar – head of state in Negeri
rantau – straight coastline Sembilan
rattan – stems from climbing palms used for wickerwork yang di-pertuan muda – under-king
and canes yang di-pertuan negeri – governor

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
640 641

Index
100 Cintra Street 179 Anwar, Ibrahim 43 food 599-601
ABBREVIATIONS aquariums internet access 593-5
A ACT Australian Capital Underwater World (Pulau medical services 595
Territory
abseiling 372 Langkawi) 206 shopping 601
NSW New South Wales
Abu Bakar 247 Underwater World (Sentosa Island) tourist information 595
NT Northern Territory
accommodation, see also individual 526 tours 598
Qld Queensland
cities archaeological sites 264 travel to/from 601-2
SA South Australia
Brunei 609 Fort Canning Park 515 travel within 602-3
Tas Tasmania
internet resources 482 Lembah Bujang 199 Bangar 607-8
Vic Victoria
Malaysia 482-4 Niah Caves 393 Banggi people 461
WA Western Australia
Sabah 422 Pulau Balambangan 461 Bangsar Baru 108, 108
Singapore 548-53, 575 Santubong Peninsula 370-2 Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim 250
Acheen St Mosque 178 Sarawak 334 Bario 415-17, 418
activities 20, see also individual activities Sungai Jaong 371-2 basketry 57
Malaysia 484-6 architecture 54-5, 89, see also individual Bat Caves 446
Singapore 529-32 styles bat guano 394
adat 46 area codes, see inside front cover Batang Ai National Park 335, 379-80
A’Famosa 228, 229, 231 Armenian Church 516 Batang Baleh 384
Agnes Keith House 463 arts 53-9, see also individual arts Batang Baram 405
Ahmad Majnun grave 224 books 53 Batang Duri 608
Air Hangat Village 208 courses 97, 98 Batang Rejang 380-9
air pollution 69, 619 festivals 528 Batek people 285, 295
air travel internet resources 53, 55 bathrooms 496, 581
air fares 499-500, 504, 582 Arts & Handicrafts Centre 597 batik 57, 349
air passes 505 Asian Civilisations Museum 514, 10, courses 281, 324, 343
airlines 504-5, 586 350 Bat Caves 446
airports 499, 582, 585-6, 611 Atago-maru 400 bat guano 394
environmental issues 500 ATMs 493 bats 62-3
to/from Brunei 611 Ayer Keroh 243 Battle Box Museum 515
to/from Kuala Lumpur 115, 117 Batu Bungan Penan Settlement 410
to/from Malaysia 500-2, 586 B Batu Caves 123-4, 6, 356
to/from Singapore 582-3, 586 Ba Kelalan 417-18 Batu Ferringhi 193, 194
within Malaysia 504-5 Baba-Nonya, see Peranakan people Batu Punggul 451-2
Albuquerque, Alfonso de 228 Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 233 Batu Rakit 309
Alor Gajah 244 Badan Warisan Malaysia 92 Bavanggazo 460
Alor Setar 200-3, 201 Badawi, Abdullah 28, 41, 42 beaches
Alpha Utara Gallery 179 badminton 530 Bako National Park 369-70
ambuyat 600 Bako National Park 335, 368-70, 369, Balok Beach 279-80
amoebic dysentery 619 350, 364 Batu Ferringhi 193
amusement parks, see theme parks Bakun Dam 388 Beserah 279
animals 61-5, see also individual species, Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari 386 Golden Beach 393
reserves, wildlife sanctuaries Balik Pulau 190 itineraries 26
books 61, 66 Balok Beach 279-80 Kudat 460
endangered species 63 Ban Po Thar 189 Pantai Cahaya Bulan 329
internet resources 63 Bandar Labuan 455-6, 456 Pantai Cenang 206-7, 208

INDEX
animism 51-2 Bandar Seri Begawan 593-603, 594 Pantai Irama 329
accommodation 598-9 Pantai Kok 207, 208
000 Map pages attractions 595-7 Pantai Seri Tujuh 329
000 Photograph pages entertainment 601 Pantai Tengah 207, 208
festivals 598 Pulau Beras Basah 208
 642 Index (B) Index (B-C) 643

beaches continued Langanan Waterfall 447 food 70, 71, 72, 73, 76 Bukit Tiban National Park 335 Forestry Research Institute of caving 484
Pulau Besar 243-4, 258-9 Langkawi Bird Paradise 206 health 615 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 523 Malaysia (FRIM) 124 Batu Caves 123-4
Pulau Langkawi 208, 5, 10 Loagan Bunut National Park 404 history 30, 34, 36, 37 Bumbun Belau 288 Poring Hot Springs 446 Fairy Cave 376
Pulau Lang Tengah 312 Malaysia 484 plants 66 Bumbun Cegar Anjing 288 Sungai Liang Forest Recreation Great Cave 394
Pulau Pangkor 140 Mt Kinabalu 439 politics 32 Bumbun Kumbang 288 Park 605 Gua Charas 279-80
Pulau Perhentian 313-18 Penang Bird Park 172 travel 19 Bumbun Tabing 288 Taman Negara 288, 9 Gua Musang 331
Sabah 436 Peradayan Forest Reserve 608-9 wildlife 66 Bumbun Tahan 288 Ulu Temburong National Park 608 Gunung Mulu National Park 408-9
Similajau National Park 392 Poring Hot Springs 446-7 border crossings Bumbun Yong 288 canoeing, see kayaking, white-water Kuching 345
Singapore 526 Similajau National Park 392-3 scams 197 burial rituals 52, 123 rafting Lang’s Cave 407
Tanjung Bidara 227 Sungai Kinabatangan 471 to/from Brunei 502, 503, 611-12 Burmese Pools 163 Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 224 national parks 66
Telok Melano 377 Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve 523 to/from Malaysia 502, 503, 583-4 bus travel car travel 506-7, 587 Niah Caves 394-418
Teluk Chempedak 279-80 Taman Alam Kuala Selangor Nature to/from Singapore 502-3, 503, to/from Bandar Seri Begawan 602 Carlsberg Sky Tower 527 safety 485
Teluk Datai 207-8, 208 Park 131-2 583-4, 585 to/from Kuala Lumpur 115-17 Carson’s Falls 441 Sarawak Chamber 408-9
Turtle Beach 393 Taman Negara 288 Borneo Cultural Festival 382 to/from Sabah 433 carvings, see rock carvings Show Caves 407
Beaufort 452-3, 453 tours 548 botanical gardens, see gardens to/from Singapore 584 cash 494, 579-80 Taman Negara 287
bee stings 621 Birthday of the God of War 490, 528 bowling, tenpin 531 within Bandar Seri Begawan 602 Castle, Kellie’s 150 Templer Park 124
Belaga 387-8 Birthday of the Goddess of Mercy Brickfields 93 within Brunei 612 Cat Museum 343 tours 400
Belait 605-7 490, 528 bridge, Causeway 249 within Kuala Lumpur 118 cat statues 344 Traders’ Cave 394
Berawan people 410, 411 Birthday of the Jade Emperor 490 Brooke, Charles 334, 343 within Malaysia 116, 505-6 cathedrals, see also churches cell phones
Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf & Spa Birthday of the Monkey God 490, Brooke, James 35, 334 within Singapore 586 Cathedral of the Good Shepherd 516 Malaysia 495
Resort 269 528, 529 brown leeches 620 bushfires 69, 409-10 St Andrew’s Cathedral 516 Singapore 580
bersilat 56 Birthday of the Queen of Heaven Brunei 590-612, 591 business hours cats 62 cemeteries, see also tombs
Beserah 279 490, 528 accommodation 609 Brunei 609 Causeway bridge 249 Commonwealth Allied War
bicycle travel, see cycling Birthday of the Third Prince 528 climate 609 Malaysia 486-7 caves, see also caving Cemetery 163
Bidayuh 374-6 black panthers 62 embassies 609-10 Singapore 575 Bat Caves 446 Kranji War Cemetery 524
Bidor 136 boat travel, see also boat trips geography 60 butterflies Batu Caves 123-4 Labuan War Cemetery 456
Bigfoot 260, 263 to/from Brunei 503, 601-2, 611-12 history 591-3 Butterfly and Reptile Sanctuary 243 Batu Punggul 451-2 Central Singapore 538, 539
Billionth Barrel Monument 606 to/from Malaysia 503, 583-4 holidays 610 Butterfly Park & Insect Kingdom Cave Temples 145 Changi 520-2
Bintulu 390-2, 391 to/from Singapore 503, 583-4 internet resources 595 526-7 Clearwater Cave 407 Changi Airport 585
Bird Park 89 within Singapore 586 itineraries 24 Cameron Highlands Butterfly Deer Cave 407, 361 Changi Museum & Chapel 521
bird-singing contest 324 within Malaysia 505 money 610 Farm 154 Fairy Cave 376 Changi Village 521
birds 61, 63-4, 66 boat trips, see also boat travel postal services 610 Gunung Mulu National Park 410 Gomantong Caves 470 Chap Goh Meh 490
birds-nest harvesting 393, 394, 395 Cherating 280 telephone services 610-11 Mt Kinabalu 439 Great Cave 394 Charah Caves, see Gua Charas
birds-nest soup 470, 471, 476 Gunung Mulu National Park 408 tourist information 611 Penang Butterfly Farm 191 Gua Charas 279-80 Cheng Ho Cultural Museum 234
bird-watching 63-4 Melaka 235 travel to/from 611-12 Poring Hot Springs 446-7 Gua Ikan 331 Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 233
Bako National Park 369 Pulau Langkawi 209 travel within 612 Taman Rama Rama 89 Gua Kelam 217 Cheng Ming 490
Bat Caves 446 Sarawak 372 visas 611 Butterworth 172 Gua Musang 331 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion 178
Bird Park 89 Singapore 533, 548 Buaya Sangkut Falls 261-2 Gua Wang Burma 217 Cherating 280-3, 281
Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 224 Sungai Brunei 603 Buddhist cremation rites 519, 523 C Kek Look Tong 147-54 children, travel with 487, 531-2
Danum Valley Conservation Area Sungai Kinabatangan 464, 471 Bugis Street 517 Cameron Bharat Tea Plantation 153 Kris Cave 331 food 75
474-5 Sungai Petuang 304-5 Bujang Valley, see Lembah Bujang Cameron Highlands 150-9, 151 Lang’s Cave 407 health 622
Endau-Rompin National Park 260 Sungai Sapulut 452 Bukit China 233 activities 154-5 Madai Caves 476 itineraries 27
Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 126-8, 127 Sungai Tembeling 287, Bukit Fraser, see Fraser’s Hill attractions 153-4 Niah Caves 393, 394-5 Kuala Lumpur 98
Gunung Gading National Park 377 Taman Negara 289-90 Bukit Indah 289 food 158 Painted Cave 393, 395 Chinatown Heritage Centre 517
Gunung Hijau 165 Tasik Kenyir 305 Bukit Kayu Hitam 214-15 tourist information 153 Paka Cave 442 Chinese Gardens 525
Gunung Mulu National Park 410 tours 290 Bukit Lambir 396 tours 155-6 Perak Tong 145-7 Chinese History Museum 342
Jurong Bird Park 525 body art 343 Bukit Larut 164-6 travel to/from 158-9 Sam Poh Tong 147 Chinese medicine 573
Kenong Rimba State Park 295 Boh Tea Estate 153, 358 Bukit Malawati 131 travel within 159 Sarawak Chamber 406, 408-9 Chinese New Year 490, 528
Kota Kinabalu City Bird Bok House 92 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve 91 trekking 154-5 Simud Putih 470 Chinese opera 56
Sanctuary 426 Bolkiah, Hassanal 592 Bukit Pantu 396 camping 482, 549 Sleeping Buddha Cave 280 Chingay 528
INDEX

INDEX
Labuan Bird Park 457 books Bukit Patoi 608 Canada Hill 399 Stepping Stone Cave 331 Chithirai Vishu 528
animals 61, 66 Bukit Peradayan 608-9 Candi Bukit Batu Pahat 199 temples 145 Chitty people 234
000 Map pages arts 53 Bukit Subok Forest Recreation Park 597 canopy walkways Temple Cave 123 Chow Kit Market 114
000 Photograph pages birds 61, 66 Bukit Teraja 605 Danum Valley Conservation Traders’ Cave 394 Christ Church 231, 232, 235, 33, 357
environmental issues 65, 66, 67, 68 Bukit Teresik 288 Area 474 Wind Cave 376 Christmas Day 529
 644 Index (C-E) Index (E-G) 645

churches, see also cathedrals internet resources 50 Pulau Payar Marine Park 209 emergency services, see also inside Borneo Cultural Festival 382 fireflies 131, 132
Armenian Church 516 longhouses 45, 374 Pulau Perhentian 314-15 front cover Chap Goh Meh 490 fires 69, 409-10
Christ Church 231, 232, 235, 33, 357 mosques 497 Pulau Redang 310 Brunei 593 Cheng Ming 490 fishing
Joseph’s Church 516 photography 494 Pulau Sibu 259 Jerantut 283 Chinese New Year 490, 528 environmental issues 434, 457
St Paul’s Church 227 responsible diving 485 Pulau Sipadan 477, 478 Melaka 232 Chithirai Vishu 490 Taman Negara 289
St Peter’s Church 233 women travellers 497, 581, 611 Pulau Tioman 268 Mersing 255 Deepavali 491, 529 Tasik Kenyir 305
cinema 58-9, 111, 568, 6 cultural villages safety 485 Pulau Langkawi 204 Dragon Boat Festival 237, 490 flea markets, see markets
civets 62 Malay Cultural Village 521 Sarawak 400 Sibu 382 Festa de San Pedro 490 flora 65-9, see also individual species
climate 18 Monsopiad Cultural Village 435-6 Semporna 476-7 Singapore 577 Festa San Juan 237 Flora Fest 98
air travel 500 Sarawak Cultural Village 371 Seribuat Archipelago 258 Empire Hotel & Country Club 603-4 Festa San Pedro 237 flying foxes 62-3
Brunei 609 currency 494, 579 Tawau 478 employment 28, 29, 46 Festa Santa Cruz 237 folk medicine 622
Malaysia 487-8 customs regulations 488, 576 tours 427 Endau 274 Festival of the Hungry Ghosts food 20, 70-2, 77-80, 9, 71, 73, 351,
Singapore 577 cutaneous larva migrans 616 wrecks 259, 268, 400, 459 Endau-Rompin National Park 260, 261 491, 529 352, 355
climbing, see mountain climbing, rock cycling dolphins 265, 526 environmental issues 67-9 Festival of the Nine Emperor Gods books 70, 71, 72, 73, 75, 76
climbing Malaysia 484, 505 Dragon Boat Festival 237, 490, 528 air pollution 69, 619 491, 529 children, travel with 75
clouded leopard 63 Miri 400 Dragonboat Racing 530 Bakun Dam 388 Festival of the Seven Sisters 491 cultural considerations 77
Colonial architecture 145 mountain biking 529 drama 55-6 books 65, 66, 67, 68 Flora Fest 98 customs 76
Commonwealth Allied War Cemetery 163 Singapore 529, 586 drinks 20, 73 climate 500 Gawai Dayak 386, 490 festivals 73-4
conservation, see environmental issues tours 235, 427 driving, see car travel, individual modes coral preservation 485 Guru Nanak’s Birthday 491 hawker centres 556
consulates of transport deforestation 389, 414 Hari Raya Puasa 529 internet resources 75
Brunei 609 D drugs 29, 488, 576, 578, 609 diving 485 Kampong Fest 98 mamak 76
Malaysia 489 dam constructions 68 drum music 56-7, 93 dynamite fishing 434, 457 Kantha Sashti 491 taxes 78
Singapore 577 Damai 370-2 Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Penang Base 179 endangered species 63 Kartikai Deepam 491 tours 533
cooking courses 20, 76, 98, 324, 532-3 dance 55-6, 570, 55 dugongs 63 erosion 69, 152 kite festival 324 For Art’s Sake! 529
Coral Bay 140 Danum Valley Conservation Area Kota Kinabalu 427 indigenous people 68 KL International Tower Jump 98 Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia
coral preservation 485 474-81 Pulau Mantanani 459 internet resources 60, 67, 68, 500 Malaysia Fest 98 124
costs 19 De Chalet Ranchan Recreational Underwater World (Sentosa national parks 65-9, 265, 287 Malaysian Grand Prix 490 forts
courses 488 Park 378 Island) 526 palm oil 65 Mariamman Festival 234 A’Famosa 228, 229, 231
arts 97, 98 Death Marches 464 Dungun 306 snorkelling 485 Miri Cultural Heritage Week 400 Fort Alice 379
batik 281, 324, 343 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 615 Durian Perangin 208 erosion 69, 152 Miri International Jazz Festival 400 Fort Atlingsburg 131
cooking 20, 76, 98, 324, 532-3 Deepavali 491, 529Deer Cave 407, 361 durians 73, 190 Esplanade - Theatres On the Bay Mooncake Festival 491, 529 Fort Canning Park 515
crafts 98 deforestation 67-8 dynamite fishing 434, 457 515, 360 Navarathri 491 Fort Cornwallis 177
dancing 533 Batang Baram 405 etiquette, see cultural considerations Panguni Uttiram 490 Fort Hose 404
language 20, 98 Kelabit Highlands 414 E exchange rates, see inside front cover Puja Ketek 491 Fort Margherita 343
meditation 98 Sarawak 389 East Coast House 330 Rainforest World Music Festival Fort Siloso 526
pewtersmithing 533 Sungai Kinabatangan 472 East Coast Park 521 F 345, 491 Fort Sylvia 385
crafts 57-8, see also individual crafts dehydration 620 East India Company 33-4 Fairy Cave 376 Ramadan 490 Kota Belanda 140
Arts & Handicrafts Centre 597 dengue fever 616 Eastern & Oriental Hotel 167, 184 Far East Plaza 575, 357 Sarawak Regatta 345 Kota Kuala Kedah 203
courses 98 departure tax 458, 499, 611 economy 28, 29, 41-2, 44, 47-8 fax services 494, 580 Shopping Carnival 98 Kota Masuri 206
internet resources 57 Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist causeway bridge 249 ferry travel, see boat travel Singapore Arts Festival 528 Kuala Selangor 131
shopping 113, 187-8, 327, 365, Temple 180 Petronas 47 Festa de San Pedro 490 Singapore International Film Lukut Fort 225
571-2 diarrhoea 619 ecotourism, see environmental issues, Festa San Juan 237 Festival 568 Maharaja Lela’s fort 137
credit cards 493, 579 diphtheria 614 responsible travel Festa San Pedro 237 Songkran Festival 490 Padang Matsirat 206
fraud 488 disabled travellers 496, 577 electricity 483, 576, 609 Festa Santa Cruz 237 Sri Krishna Jayanti 490 St John’s Fort 234-5
phones 580 diving 484-5, see also snorkelling elephants 63 festivals, see also individual cities, Sri Rama Navami 490 Fountain of Wealth 519
cremation rites, Buddhist 519, 523 etiquette 485 Kuala Gandah Elephant countries Sultan of Brunei’s Birthday 598 Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 126-8, 127
Crocker Range National Park 421, 447 health 619-20 Conservation Centre 296 Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari 386 Thaipusam 52, 181, 490, 528, 598 fruit bats 62-3
Cukai 305-6 Miri 400 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 476 bird-singing contest 324 Thai Pongal 490
cultural considerations 45-59 national parks 66 Taman Negara 285, 287 Birthday of the God of War 490, 528 Thimithi (Fire-Walking Ceremony) G
burial rituals 52 Pulau Aur 259, 259-60 embassies Birthday of the Goddess of Mercy 490 491, 529 galleries, see also museums
INDEX

INDEX
food 77 Pulau Dayang 259-60 Brunei 609-10 Birthday of the Jade Emperor 490 Vinayagar Chaturthi 491 Alpha Utara Gallery 179
Pulau Kapas 309 Malaysia 489 Birthday of the Monkey God 490, Wesak Day 330, 490 Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah 160
000 Map pages Pulau Lang Tengah 312 Singapore 577 528, 529 Winter Solstice Festival 491 Kuala Lumpur 113
000 Photograph pages Pulau Layang Layang 437 Emerald Bay 140 Birthday of the Queen of Heaven filariasis 616 National Art Gallery 92
Pulau Mantanani 459 Emerald Hill 520 490, 528 film, see cinema Ng Eng Teng Gallery 524
 646 Index (G-H) Index (H-K) 647

galleries continued Gomantong Caves 464, 470 costs 615-16 HMS Prince of Wales 268 internet resources 21 jet lag 615
Singapore City Gallery 518 Good Friday 528 drinking water 619 HMS Repulse 268 accommodation 482 jet-skiing 193
South & Southeast Asian Gallery 524 Government 41 insect bites 621 Ho, Cheng 228 air tickets 499-500, 582 Joaquim, Agnes 516
Weapons Gallery 323 Grand Prix circuit 128 insurance 492-3, 613 holidays 492, 578, 610 arts 53, 55 Johor 245-62, 246
gardens, see also parks graves, see cemeteries, tombs internet resources 615 Holland Village 524 Brunei 595 Johor Bahru 247-54, 248
Botanical Gardens 189 Great Cat of Kuching 344 leeches 620 homestays 422 cinema 59 accommodation 250-1
Chinese Gardens 525 Great Cave 394 stings 621 hornbills, Rhinoceros 64, 365, 351 crafts 57 food 251-2
Japanese Gardens 525 Great Singapore Sale 528 vaccinations 613-14 horse riding 436 environmental issues 60, 67, 68, 500 internet access 249
Lake Gardens 89-91 green turtles 64, 64 women travellers 622-3 hostels 483 food 75 medical services 249
Mandai Orchid Gardens 522 Gua Charas 279-80 heatstroke 620-1 hot springs health 615 shopping 252
National Orchid Garden 520, 11 Gua Ikan 331 hepatitis 614-16 Air Hangat Village 208 history 37 tourist information 249
Sabah Zoological & Botanical Gua Kelam 217 heritage buildings 92 Poring Hot Springs 446-7 Malaysia 493 travel to/from 252-3
Park 436 Gua Musang 331 hides, see also salt licks Tawau Hills Park 481 media 50 travel within 253-4
Singapore Botanic Gardens 520, Gua Wang Burma 217 Bumbun Belau 288 hotels 483 Singapore 578 Joseph’s Church 516
355, 511 guano 394 Bumbun Cegar Anjing 288 Hussein of Johor 235 theatre 55 Jungle Railway 330-1
Taman Bunga Raya 89 guesthouses 483 Bumbun Kumbang 288 travel advisories 488 jungle trekking 485-6
Taman Orkid 89 Gunung Apad Runan 418 Bumbun Tabing 288 I wildlife 63 4WD trips 324
Taman Tasik Taiping 162 Gunung Api 406 Bumbun Tahan 288 Iban people 379, 608 Ipoh 144-50, 146 Bario Loop 418
Gawai Dayak 386, 490 Gunung Buda National Park 335 Bumbun Yong 288 Ibrahim, Anwar 28-9 Islam 31-44, 50 Belaga 387
gay travellers 491-2, 577-8 Gunung Gading 377 Taman Negara 287 ikat 58 architecture 89 Danum Valley Conservation Area 474
venues 112, 569 Gunung Gading National Park 335, 377 hiking, see jungle trekking, trekking, Images of Singapore 526, 359 cultural considerations 45, 46 environmental issues 377
Gelanggang Seni 324 Gunung Hijau 165 walking immigration 48-9 politics 42-3 Gunung Mulu National Park 408
Genting Highlands 125-6 Gunung Jerai 199-200 hill stations Bangar 607 Islamic Arts Museum 88 Jelawang Jungle Park 330-1
geography 60 Gunung Ledang 255 Cameron Highlands 150 Georgetown 176 Islamic Family Law Bill 216 Kelabit Highlands 414-15, 414
geology 60, 438 Gunung Machinchang 207 Bukit Larut 164-6 Johor Bahru 249 islands, see Pulau Kenong Rimba State Park 295
Georgetown 173-88, 174, 10, 11, 356 Gunung Mulu National Park 335, 400, Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 126-8, 127 Kota Kinabalu 425 Istana 520 Kuala Belait 606
accommodation 182-4 405-8, 406, 12, 361 Genting Highlands 125 Kuala Lumpur 86 Istana Balai Besar 324 Malaysia 485-6
activities 181 Gunung Murud 415 Gunung Jerai 199-200 Kuantan 276 Istana Batu 323 Penan Treks 415
attractions 176-80 Gunung Penrissen 375-6 hill-tribe communities, see indigenous Kuching 341 Istana Budaya 89, 113 Pinnacles, The 408, 359
entertainment 187 Gunung Perigi 377 peoples Pengkalan Kubor 330 Istana Bukit Serene 250 planning 337, 486
festivals 181-2 Gunung Raya 208 Hinduism 51 indigenous peoples 30, 38 Istana Hula 160 Pulau Jerejak 190
food 184-7 Gunung Santubong 371 history 30-44 Banggi 461 Istana Iskandariah 159 Pulau Perhentian 315
internet access 176 Gunung Serapi 373 books 30, 34, 36, 37 Batek 285, 295 Istana Jahar 323 Pulau Tioman 263
medical services 176 Gunung Stong 331 Borneo 35 Berawan 410, 411 Istana Kenangan 160 responsible trekking 337
shopping 187-8 Gunung Subis 393 British era 33-4, 35-6 Chitty 234 Istana Kota 160 Santubong Peninsula 371
tourist information 176 Gunung Tahan 288, 289 Death Marches 464 environmental issues 68 Istana Lama 223 Sarawak 337, 408
tours 181, 180 Guru Nanak’s Birthday 491 Dutch period 33 Iban 379, 608 Istana Nurul Iman 604 Singapore 530
Geylang 520-1 early empires 30-1 Jakun 280 Istana Tengku Long 304 Taman Negara 287, 289
ghost (snaggle-toothed), see Bigfoot H economy 36 Kelabit 417 itineraries 16, 22-7, see also individual tours 290, 324, 400, 410
giant leatherback turtles 63, 64, 306-7 Hainan Temple 179 Federation 37 Minangkabau people 223 destinations, planning Jurong Bird Park 525
giardiasis 619 Hajjah Fatimah Mosque 519 Independence 38-9 native land rights 411 Jurong Reptile Park 525
gibbons 61 handicrafts, see crafts internet resources 37 Orang Asli 24, 38, 58, 124, 280, J
gods, see mythology Hang Kasturi’s Tomb 236 Konfrontasi 39, 334, 415 287, 324 Jakun people 280 K
Golden Beach 393 Hari Raya Aidilfitri 598 Mahathir years 40-1 Orang Ulu 372 Jalan Lintang 369 Kabili-Sepilok rainforest reserve 467
golf Hari Raya Haji 529 Malay Emergency 37-44 Penan 410, 415 Jalan Petaling 114 kain songket 57-8
Brunei 597-8 Hari Raya Puasa 529 Melaka empire 31 Peranakan 49, 52 Jalan Telok Limau 369 Kalimantan loop 415
Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 126 Hassanal Bolkiah National Stadium 597 New Economic Policy 40 Indo-Chinese (Malaysian) tigers 63 Jame’Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque 603 Kampong Fest 98
Mount Kinabalu Golf Club 445 Haw Par Villa 524 Portuguese era 32-3 influenza 616 Janing Barat Plateau 261 Kampung Annah Rais 375
Pulau Langkawi 205 hawksbill turtles 64 prehistory 30 insect bites 621 Japanese B encephalitis 614, 617 Kampung Ayer 595, 363
Royal Selangor Golf Course 485 haze, the 69 racial policies 39-40 insurance Japanese Gardens 525 Kampung Baru 91, 110, 418
INDEX

INDEX
Singapore 529-30 Headhunters’ Trail 409 Singapore 513 car 507 Jefri, Prince 604 Kampung Benuk 375
health 613-23, see also emergency Straits settlement 34 health 613 Jelawang Jungle Park 330-1 Kampung Bota Kiri 136
000 Map pages services WWII 36-7, 464 travel 492-3 jellyfish stings 621 Kampung Chitty 234
000 Photograph pages books 615 hitching 508, 587 International Bird Race 126 Jerantut 283-5, 284 Kampung Gayu 375
children, travel with 622 HIV 616 internet access 493, 578 Jerudong Park Playground 603 Kampung Jenang 307
 648 Index (K-L) I n d e x ( L- M ) 649

Kampung Kuala Tahan 291 Kota Belanda 140 Kuala Pilah 223-4 Layang Layang 441, 441-2 Rejang 380 Malaysian Grand Prix 490
Kampung Pasir Salak 136 Kota Belud 459 Kuala Selangor 131-2 Lazarus Island 528 Rungus 460 Maliau Basin Conservation Area 475-6
Kangar 215-16 Kota Bharu 321-8, 322, 10, 352 Kuala Sepetang 166 leatherback turtles, giant 63, 64, 306-7 Sabah 460 Maliau Falls 475
Kantha Sashti 491 Kota Kinabalu 423-33, 424 Kuala Terengganu 299-303, 300 Lee Kong Chian Art Museum 524 Sarawak 374, 357 Maludam National Park 336
Kapit 384-7, 385 accommodation 427-9 Kuala Trenggan 289 leeches 620 Serian 378 mamak 76
Kartikai Deepam 491 attractions 426-7 Kuan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple 516 legal matters 32, 493, 578, 579, 610 Tasik Chini 280 Mandai Orchid Gardens 522
Katong 521 entertainment 431 Kuan Yew, Lee 29, 34, 39, 44, 513 Lembah Bujang 199 tours 387, 460 mangroves 65, 360
kayaking 486, see also white-water food 429-30 Kuan Yin pagoda 382 Leong San See Temple 518-19 Loo Pun Hong 179 Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve 166
rafting internet access 425 Kuan Yin Teng 178 Leonowens, Thomas 177 Lost World of Tambun 150 Rajang Mangroves National Park 336
Cherating 280 tourist information 425 Kuantan 276-9, 277 leopards 62, 63, 285 Luagan Lalak Forest Reserve 593, 605 Mantanani Islands 427
Kuching 345 tours 427 Kubah National Park 335, 372-3 Leptospirosis 617 Lubok Simpon 289 maps 493, 579, 610
Sarawak 372 travel to/from 432-3 Kuching 339-68, 340, 351, 363 lesbian travellers 491-2, 577-8 Lukut Fort 225 Marang 307-8, 308
Kedah 197, 198-215, 197 travel within 433 accommodation 345-7 venues 112, 569 Lumut 137-8 Maranjak 460
Keith, Agnes 463 Kota Kinabalu City Bird Sanctuary 426 attractions 342-5 Lian Shan Shuang Lin Monastery 523 Lundu 376-7 marbled cat 62
Kek Lok Si Temple 189, 8, 362 Kota Kuala Kedah 203 entertainment 348-65 Limbang 412-13 Mariamman Festival 234
Kek Look Tong 147-54 Kota Mahsuri 206 festivals 345 literature 19, 53-4, see also books M marine parks 66
Kelabit Highlands 414-18, 414 Kranji War Cemetery 524 food 347-8 lizards, monitor 64, 265, 360 Ma’ Daerah Turtle Sanctuary 307 Labuan marine park 457
Kelabit people 417 Kris Cave 331 internet access 341 Loagan Bunut National Park 336, 404 Mabul 477-8 Pulau Kapas 308-9
Kelantan 319-31, 320, 329 Kristang 235 medical services 341 logging, see deforestation macaques 61 Pulau Payar Marine Park 209
Kellie’s Castle 150 Kuah 205-6 shopping 365 Long Lellang 415 Bako National Park 369, 371 Pulau Perhentian 313-18, 314
Kemaman 305-6 Kuala Balai 590 tourist information 342 Long Semiang 388 Pulau Sapi 435-41 Pulau Redang 310
Kemasik 306 Kuala Belait 606-7 tours 345 longhouses Pulau Tioman 265 Pulau Tioman 265-74, 266
Keningau 449 Kuala Belalong Rainforest Field Studies travel to/from 365-7 Bario Asal 415-16 Sungai Kinabatangan 471 Semporna Islands Marine Park 477-8
Kenong Rimba State Park 295 Centre 608 travel within 367-8 Batang Duri 608 Taman Negara Perlis 217 Seribuat Archipelago 258-62
Kenyir Dam 304 Kuala Besut 312-13 Kuching Mosque 344, 11 Batang Rejang 380 MacRitchie Reservoir 523 Tun Sakaran Marine Park 421, 477-8
Khoo Kongsi 178, 8 Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Kudat 459-60 Bavanggazo 460 Madai Caves 476 Tunku Abdul Rahman (TAR)
kickboxing 530 Centre 296 Kusu Island 527, 529 Belaga 387-8 magazines 576 National Park 434-5
Kinabalu International Climbathon 443 Kuala Jasin 261, 262 Bidayuh 374-6 Maharaja Lela’s fort 137 Maritime Museum 234
Kinabalu National Park 421, 437-47, Kuala Kangsar 159-61, 160 L cultural considerations 45, 374 Mahathir, Mohamad 28, 40-1, 43 markets
438, 354 Kuala Kedah 203 Laban Rata 442 cultural performances 336 Makam Di-Raja 597 Geylang Serai Market 521
accommodation 442-4 Kuala Keniam 289 Labi 605-6 Iban 605 Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath Mosque 520 Jalan Petaling 114
climbing trails 440-2 Kuala Lipis 293-5 Labuan Bird Park 457 Kampung Annah Rais 375 Malacca, see Melaka (state) Kampung Baru 110
food 444 Kuala Lumpur 82-120, 84-5, 91, 100, Labuan marine park 457 Kampung Benuk 375 malaria 617-18 Kota Belud 459
information 438-9 119, 81, 363, 350 Labuan War Cemetery 456 Kampung Gayu 375 Malay College 160 Kota Bharu 327
travel to/from 444 accommodation 99-104 Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Kayan 387-8 Malay Cultural Village 521 Kuala Lumpur 110, 114
Kipungit Waterfalls 446 attractions 88-93 Sanctuary 469 Kejaman 388 Malay Emergency 37-8 Kuching 344
kites 58, 209, 324, 530, 10 Chinatown 88, 90 Lahad Datu 473-4 Kelabit 414 Malay Heritage Centre 519 Pudu Market 114
KL International Tower Jump 98 entertainment 111-13 Lake Gardens 89-91 Kenyah 387-8, 414 Malay Technology Museum 596 Saberkas Weekend Market 399
Klang 130 festivals 98 Lake Titiwangsa 92 Kuching 345 Malaysia 82-510, 499 Serian 378
Klang Valley 129-32 food 104-9 Lambir Hills National Park 336, 396-7 Lahanan 388 accommodation 482-4 Sikuati 460
Klang Valley Transport 119 history 83 Langanan Waterfall 447 Long Selaban 404 climate 487-8 Singapore 572
KLCC 88, 100 internet access 86 Langkasuka 31 Long Semiang 388 embassies 489 martial arts 56
KLIA 499 itineraries 87 Langkawi Bird Paradise 206 Malaysian Borneo 483-4 festivals 489-91 Marudi 404-5
Kolam Sebubong 393 Kampung Baru 91 Lang’s Cave 407 Maranjak 460 geography 60 Masjid Jamek 92
Kompleks Dayabumi 89 KLCC 88, 100 language 30, 48, 49, 74, 624-30, 631-2 Marudi 404 history 30-43 Masjid Kampung Laut 328
Kompleks Muzium Negeri medical services 87 courses 20, 98 Matunggung 460 holidays 492 Masjid Kapitan Keling 179
Terengganu 304 shopping 113-15 food vocabulary 77-80 Misompuru 460 internet resources 493 Masjid Negara 93
Kompleks Sejarah Pasir Salak 136 tourist information 87 Iban 379 Orang Ulu 372 itineraries 23 Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz
Konfrontasi 39, 334, 415 tours 95-7, 98, 95, 96 Kelabit 417 Pa Berang 418 money 489, 493-4 Shah 130
Kong Meng San Phor Kark See travel to/from 115-117 Kristang 235 Pa Mada 418 postal services 494 Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah 304
INDEX

INDEX
Monastery 523 travel within 117-20 langurs 61 Pa Ukat 416 telephone services 494-5 Masjid Tranquerah 235
Kuala Lumpur International Airport 499 Lata Berkoh 289 Pa Umor 416 tourism information 496 Masjid Ubudiah 159
000 Map pages Kuala Lurah 605 Lata Iskandar 152 permits 335, 399-404 visas 335, 421, 496-7, 581 Mass Rapid Transport (MRT) 587
000 Photograph pages Kuala Penyu 454 Latak Waterfall 396 Pongugadan 460 Malaysia Fest 98 massage 531
Kuala Perlis 216 Lawas 413-14 Ramudu 418 Malaysian Borneo, see Sabah, Sarawak Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve 166
 650 Index (M) Index (M-P) 651

Matang Wildlife Centre 373 money 19, see also individual countries, planning 440 Muzium Arkeologi 199 Taman Alam Kuala Selangor 123 Joaquim, Agnes 516
Matunggung 460 inside front cover tours 400 Muzium Islam 323 Taman Negara 263 Kubah National Park 373
measles 614, 618 monitor lizards 64, 265, 360 Muar 254 Muzium Islam Sarawak 342 Taman Negara Perlis 197, 217 Maliau Basin Conservation Area 475
measures 483, 576, see also inside monkeys 61-2, 415, see also individual Muka Head 191 Muzium Negeri 201, 221 Tanjung Datu National Park 336, Mandai Orchid Gardens 522
front cover species Mukah 389-90 Muzium Perak 163 378 Mt Kinabalu 439
Medan Portugis 234 Bako National Park 369, 371 Multimedia Super Corridor 28, 41, 47 mythology 51 Tasek Merimbun 605 National Orchid Garden 520
media 49-50, 50, 579 Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey mumps 614 Gunung Ledang 255 Tawau Hills Park 421 Native Orchid Centre 451
medical procedures 533 Sanctuary 469 museums, see also galleries Haw Par Villa 524 Tunku Abdul Rahman (TAR) Penang Hill 189
medicine Pulau Ranggu 604 Asian Civilisations Museum 514, 10 Pulau Langkawi 206 National Park 421, 434-5 Poring Hot Springs 446-7
Chinese 573 Pulau Sapi 435-41 Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 233 Turtle Islands National Park 421, Sabah Agricultural Park 451
folk 622 Pulau Tioman 265 Battle Box Museum 515 N 464, 469-70 Singapore Botanic Gardens 520, 355
traditional 622 Singapore Zoo 522 Brunei Museum 596 Nakawan Range 217 Ulu Temburong National Park Taman Negara 285
meditation courses 98 Sungai Klias 454 Cat Museum 343 National Art Gallery 92 593, 608 Tasik Kenyir 304
Melaka (city) 229-43, 230, 7 Sungai Kinabatangan 471 Changi Museum & Chapel 521 National Library of Malaysia 86, 89 National Planetarium 89-91 Titi Kerawang 191
accommodation 237-9 Taman Negara Perlis 217 Cheng Ho Cultural Museum 234 National Museum (Kuala Lumpur) 93 native land rights 411 Ostrich Farm, Port Dickson 225
entertainment 242 Monsopiad Cultural Village 435-6 Chinatown Heritage Centre 517 National Orchid Garden 520, 11 Native Orchid Centre 451
food 239-41 moon moths 439 Chinese History Museum 342 national parks 65-9, see also marine Naval Museum 234 P
shopping 242 Mooncake Festival 491, 529 Images of Singapore 526 parks, reserves, wildlife sanctuaries Navarathri 491, 529 Pa Berang 416, 418
tours 235-6, 236 mosques Islamic Arts Museum 88 Bako National Park 335, 368-70 Nawa Sari Spa 207 Pa Dali 418
travel to/from 242-3 Acheen St Mosque 178 Istana Batu 323 Batang Ai National Park 335, 379-80 Negeri Sembilan 218-26, 219 Pa Mada 418
travel within 242-3 Hajjah Fatimah Mosque 519 Istana Jahar 323 Batang Rejang 380-8 New Foochow 380 Pa Main 418
Melaka (state) 227-44, 228 Jame’Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Kapit Museum 385 Brunei 593 newspapers 50, 483, 576, 609 Pa Tik 415
Melinau Gorge 409 Mosque 603 Kompleks Muzium Negeri Bukit Tiban National Park 335 Ng Eng Teng Gallery 524 Pa Ukat 416
Menara KL 89, 91 Kuching Mosque 344, 11 Terengganu 304 costs 421-2 Nguyen Tuong Van 29 Pa Umor 416
Menara Maybank 89 Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath Lee Kong Chian Art Museum 524 Crocker Range National Park Niah Archaeology Museum 394-5 Padang Besar 217
Mengkabong Water Village 458 Mosque 520 Malay Technology Museum 596 421, 447 Niah Caves 394-5 Padang Matsirat 206
mengkuang 57-8 Masjid Jamek 92 Maritime Museum 234 Endau-Rompin National Park 260 Niah National Park 336, 393-6, 400 Padang Merdeka 323
meningitis 614 Masjid Kampung Laut 328 Muzium Arkeologi 199 environmental issues 65-9 Night Safari 522 pagodas
Merang 310 Masjid Negara 93 Muzium Islam 323 Gunung Buda National Park 335 North Borneo Railway 426 Ban Po Thar 189
Merapok 455 Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Muzium Islam Sarawak 342 Gunung Gading National Park NUS Museums 524 Kuan Yin pagoda 382
Merdeka Square Walking Tour 95 Aziz Shah 130 Muzium Negeri 201, 221 335, 377 Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas 523
Merimbun Heritage Park 593, 605 Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah 304 Muzium Perak 163 Gunung Mulu National Park 335, O Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda 189
meromictic lake 191 Masjid Tranquerah 235 National Museum (Kuala 405-8 olive ridley turtles 64 Tuaran 458
Mersing 255-8, 256 Masjid Ubudiah 159 Lumpur) 93 itineraries 27 Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque 595-6, Pahang 263-96, 264
Mesilau Nature Resort 444-5 Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque 595-6, Naval Museum 234 Kinabalu National Park 421, 437-47, 12, 39, 353 Painted Cave 393, 395
metalwork 58 12, 39, 353 Niah Archaeology Museum 394-5 438, 354 opera 56, 567 Pak Lah, see Badawi, Abdullah
metric conversions 483, 576, see State Mosque (Kota Kinabalu) NUS Museums 524 Kubah National Park 335, 372-3 Orang Asli people 24, 38, 58, 124, 280, Paka 306
also inside front cover 426-32 Orang Asli Museum 124 Lambir Hills National Park 336, 287, 324 Paka Cave 442
Minangkabau people 223 Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque 250 Penang Islamic Museum 178 396-7 Orang Ulu people 372 palaces
Miri 397-404, 398 moths, moon 439 Penang Museum 177 Loagan Bunut National Park 336, 404 orang-utans 61, 5, 61, 349 Istana 520
Miri Cultural Heritage Week 400 motion sickness 615 Penang War Museums 190 Maludam National Park 336 Batang Ai National Park 379-80 Istana Balai Besar 324
Miri International Jazz Festival 400 motorcycle travel 506-7 Raffles Museum of Biodiversity Merimbun Heritage Park 593 Matang Wildlife Centre 373 Istana Batu 323
Misompuru 460 Mt Faber 524 Research 525 Niah National Park 336, 393-6, 363 Poring Hot Springs 446-7 Istana Bukit Serene 250
mobile phones Mt Kinabalu 437, 441, 8, 354 Royal Abu Bakar Museum 249-50 Penang National Park 191 Sabah Zoological & Botanical Istana Hula 160
Malaysia 495 Mt Trus Madi 448-9 Royal Regalia Museum 596-7 Pulau Redang 310 Park 436 Istana Iskandariah 159
Singapore 580 mountain biking 529, see also cycling Sabah Museum 426 Pulau Tiga National Park 421, 454-5 Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Istana Kenangan 160
monasteries mountain climbing 486 Sarawak Museum 342 Pulau Tioman 265 Centre 373-4 Istana Kota 160
Kong Meng San Phor Kark See Gunung Ledang 255 Singapore Art Museum 515 Pulong Tau National Park 336, Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Istana Lama 223
Monastery 523 Gunung Mulu Trail 409 music 56-7 414, 415 Centre 467-9 Istana Nurul Iman 604
Lian Shan Shuang Lin Gunung Penrissen 375-6 courses 98 Rajang Mangroves National Park 336 Sungai Kinabatangan 471 Istana Tengku Long 304
INDEX

INDEX
Monastery 523 Gunung Tahan 288, 289 festivals 93, 345, 400, 491 Sabah 421-2 Singapore Zoo 522 Royal Abu Bakar Museum 249-50
Kinabalu International live 568-70 Sarawak 335-6 Orchard Road 544, 545, 546 palm oil 65
000 Map pages Climbathon 443 shopping 573 Similajau National Park 336, 392-3 orchids 65 pangolins 62
000 Photograph pages Mt Kinabalu 440-2 Tugu Drum Circle 93 Talang-Satang National Park Crocker Range National Park 447 Panguni Uttiram 490
national parks 66 Mutamariman Temple 234 336, 378 Fort Margherita 343 Pantai Aceh 190-1
 652 Index (P) Index (P-S) 653

Pantai Cahaya Bulan 329 Penang War Museums 190 Sungai Kinabatangan 471 puppets 55, 58, 324 Peradayan Forest Reserve 593, 608-9 Sabah Agricultural Park 451
Pantai Cenang 206-7, 208, 355 Pengkalan Kempas 224 Sungai Klias 454 Putrajaya 128-9 Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve 523 Sabah Museum 426
Pantai Irama 329 Pengkalan Kubor 330 pua kumbu 58 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 476 Sabah Tea Garden 446
Pantai Kok 207, 208 Penimbawan 458 Pudu Market 114 Q Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve 447-8 Sabah Zoological & Botanical Park 436
Pantai Pasir Hitam 208 Peradayan Forest Reserve 593, Puja Ketek 491 Qing Ming Festival 528 Reservoir Park 345 Saberkas Weekend Market 399
Pantai Puteri Dewi 140 608-9 Pulau Aur 259-60 responsible travel, see also cultural safe travel
Pantai Seri Tujuh 329 Perak 133-66, 134 Pulau Balambangan 461 R considerations, environmental drinking water 619
Pantai Tengah 207, 208 Perak Tong 145-7 Pulau Banggi 461 rabies 614, 618 issues Georgetown 169
panthers, black 62 Peranakan people 49 Pulau Batam 584 radio 483, 576, 609 diving 485 hitching 508, 587
Papar 436 architecture 521 Pulau Beras Basah 208 Raffles Hotel 515, 7, 34 snorkelling 485 Johor Bahru 249
Parameswara 228 Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum Pulau Besar 243-4, 258-9 Raffles Museum of Biodiversity trekking 337 Kedah 197
parasailing 193 227, 233 Pulau Bintan 584 Research 525 resthouses 484 Kota Bharu 321
parasites 621 performing arts 53, 55-6, Pulau Dayang 259-60 Raffles, Thomas Stanford 34, 247 rhinoceros 63, 260, 415, 476 Kota Kinabalu 426
parks, see also gardens, marine parks, Perlis 215-17, 197 Pulau Dayang Bunting 209 rafflesias 65 Singapore Zoo 522 Malaysia 488-9
national parks, reserves permits, see also passports, visas Pulau Duyung 300, 301 Gunung Gading National Park 377 Taman Negara 285 Perlis 197
Bukit Subok Forest Recreation longhouses 335, 399 Pulau Gaya 434-5 Poring Hot Springs 446-7 rhinoceros hornbills 64, 365, 351 Pulau Sipadan 478
Park 597 Sabah 421 Pulau Jerejak 189-90 Pulong Tau National Park 415 rhododendron forests 65 responsible diving 485
De Chalet Ranchan Recreational Sarawak 335 Pulau Kalampunian Damit 454 Taman Negara 285 Ringlet Lake 152 road rules 507
Park 378 Pesta Datuk Charchar, see Mariamman Pulau Kapas 308-9 Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve 447-8 river cruises, see boat trips Sandakan 463
East Coast Park 521 Festival Pulau Ketam 130 Tenom 451 river kayaking, see kayaking, scams 197, 488
Fort Canning Park 515 petroglyphs, see rock carvings Pulau Labuan 455-8 rafting, see whitewater-rafting white-water rafting Singapore 577
Jelawang Jungle Park 330-1 Petronas 47 Pulau Lang Tengah 312 Rainforest World Music Festival 345, 491 Roach Reef 478 Sipadan 478
Kenong Rimba State Park 295 Petronas Towers 88, 89, 5, 54, 356 Pulau Langkawi 203-14, 204, 5, 10 rainforests 65, 67-8, see also canopy Robinsons department store 573, 359 Saifuddien, Omar Ali 591, 592
Merimbun Heritage Park 605 pewtersmithing 533 Pulau Layang Layang 437, 364 walkways, jungle trekking, national rock carvings St Andrew’s Cathedral 516
Reservoir Park 345 photography 494 Pulau Mamutik 435-41 parks, reserves Painted Cave 393, 395 St John’s Fort 234-5
Sabah Agricultural Park 451 Pinang Peranakan Mansion 179 Pulau Mantanani 459 Rajang Mangroves National Park 336 Sanbutong rock carvings 371-2 St John’s Island 527
Sabah Zoological & Botanical pink dolphins 526 Pulau Manukan 434 Rajas, White 35 Sungai Jaong 371, 371-2 St Paul’s Church 227
Park 436 Pinnacles, The 408, 359 Pulau Pangkor 138-44, 139, 362 Ramadan 490 Wind Cave 376 St Peter’s Church 233
Sandakan Memorial Park 463-4 piracy 32 Pulau Payar Marine Park 209 Ramudu 418 rock climbing, see also mountain Sakaya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple
Sungai Liang Forest Recreation planning 18-21, 489, 577, see Pulau Pemanggil 260-2 Ranau 445-6 climbing 518-19, 362
Park 605 also itineraries Pulau Penang, see Penang Rantau Abang 306-7 Gunung Mulu National Parki 408 Sala Pattivetaya 330
Taman Alam Kuala Selangor Nature holidays 492, 578 Pulau Penyu, see Turtle Islands National Reflections at Bukit Chandu 525 Sarawak 372 salt licks 416, 287, see also hides
Park 131-2 trekking 337, 486 Park refunds 494 Singapore 530-1 Sam Poh Temple 153
Taman Peranginan Tasek 597 mountain climbing 440 Pulau Perhentian 313-18, 314, 7 Regional Environmental Awareness Templer Park 124-5 Sam Poh Tong 147
Taman Persiaran Damuan 604 plants 65-9, see also individual species Pulau Perhentian Besar, see Pulau Cameron Highlands 68 tours 400 San Ching Tian temple 399
Tawau Hills Park 481 polio 614 Perhentian rehabilitation centres, see reserves, rock paintings, see rock carvings Sandakan 461-7, 462
Templer Park 124 politics 28-9 Pulau Perhentian Kecil, see Pulau wildlife sanctuaries Royal Abu Bakar Museum 249-50 Sandakan Memorial Park 463-4
Partners for Wetlands 472 books 32 Perhentian Rejang longhouses 380 Royal Brunei Armed Forces Day 598 Santubong 370-2
Pasir Bogak 140 religion 42-3 Pulau Pinang, see Penang religion 50-2 Royal Mulu Resort 411 Sapulut 452
passports 497, 499 pollution 69, 619 Pulau Ranggu 604 cultural considerations 46, 497 Royal Regalia Museum 596-7 Sarakraf Pavilion 343
Pekan 274-6, 275 polygamy 216 Pulau Rawa 259 history of Islam 31-2 Royal Selangor Golf Course 485 Sarawak 332-418, 333, 366
Pelabuhan Klang 130 Pondok Paka 441-2, 442 Pulau Redang 310, 9 reptiles 64, see also individual species rubber plantations 161, 190, 256 itineraries 24
Penan people 410, 415 Ponggal 528 Pulau Sapi 435-41 Butterfly and Reptile Sanctuary 243 rubella 614 national parks 335-6
treks 415 Pongugadan 460 Pulau Sibu 259 Jurong Reptile Park 525 Rumah Negeri Sembilan 221 permits 335
Penang 167-95, 168 population 28, 45, 48 Pulau Sipadan 477, 358, 360 Pulau Kalampunian Damit 454 Rumah Penghulu 92 tours 336-8
Penang Bird Park 172 Poring Hot Springs 446-7, 349 Pulau Sulug 435 reserves, see also marine parks, travel to/from 338
Penang Buddhist Association 180 Port Dickson 224-6 Pulau Tiga National Park 421, 454-5 national parks, wildlife sanctuaries S travel within 338-9
Penang Butterfly Farm 191 postal services 494, 580, 610 Pulau Tikus 195 Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 224 Sabah 419-81, 420 trekking 337
Penang Islamic Museum 178 Power Station 441 Pulau Tinggi 259 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve 91 accommodation 422 visas 335
Penang Museum 177 Prince Jefri 604 Pulau Tioman 265-74, 266 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 523 itineraries 25 Sarawak Biodiversity Centre 67
INDEX

INDEX
Penang National Park 191 proboscis monkeys 61-2 Pulau Ubin 522 Kabili-Sepilok rainforest reserve 467 permits 421 Sarawak Chamber 406, 408-9
Bako National Park 369 Pulau Ular (Snake Island), see Pulau Luagan Lalak Forest Reserve 593, tours 422 Sarawak Cultural Village 371-2
000 Map pages Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Kalampunian Damit 605 travel to/from 423 Sarawak Museum 342
000 Photograph pages Sanctuary 469 Pulong Tau National Park 336, 414, Matang Mangrove Forest travel within 423 Sarawak Regatta 345
Pulau Ranggu 604 415 Reserve 166 visas 421 SARS 617
 654 Index (S) I n d e x ( S -T ) 655

Sayat-Sayat 442 GST 571 Singapore City Gallery 518 Mengkabong Water Village 458 Taman Bunga Raya 89 Teluk Chempedak 279-80
scams 197, 488, see also safe travel markets 114 Singapore Food Festival 529 Penimbawan 458 Taman Mini Malaysia/Asean 243 Teluk Datai 207-8
scarification 343 music 573 Singapore International Film Festival 568 Pulau Gaya 435 Taman Negara 285-93, 286, 9 Teluk Intan 136
sculpture 518 Pulau Langkawi 213-14 Singapore Island 513-14 Semporna 476-7 accommodation 290-2 Teluk Ketapang 140
sea turtles, see turtles shopping malls 573-5 Singapore MRT 547 Sungai Brunei 593 boat trips 289-90 Teluk Nipah 140
Seberang Perai 172 souvenirs 113-14, 365 Singapore River Buskers Festival 529 Tawau 478 environmental issues 287 Temburong 607-9
Sekayu Falls 304 walking tour 574-5 Singapore Science Centre 525 stings 621 food 292 Temerloh 295-6
Selangor 121-32, 122 Shopping Carnival 98 Singapore Zoo 522 Straits Chinese, see Peranakan people planning 287, 288 Temple Cave 123
Selangor Civil War 131 Sibu 380-4, 381 Sipitang 455 Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque 250 tours 290, 291 Temple of the Reclining Buddha 180
Seletar Airport 585-6 Sikh Temple 92 Sisters’ Islands 528 Sultan of Brunei 592 travel to/from 292-3 Templer Park 124
Selim River 136 Sikuati 460 Skybridge 88 Sultan’s Birthday 598 trekking 288-9 temples, see also cathedrals, chuches,
Selunsur Rapids 393 silat 56 Sleeping Buddha Cave 280 Sumatran rhinoceros 63, 260, 415, 476 Taman Negara Perlis 197, 217 monasteries, mosques
Sematan 377-8 silversmithing 58 snaggle-toothed ghost, see Bigfoot Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall 524 Taman Orkid 89 Candi Bukit Batu Pahat 199
Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Simangangg 379 Snake Island, see Pulau Kalampunian sunburn 622 Taman Peranginan Tasek 597 cave temples 145
Centre 373-4 Similajau National Park 336, 392-3 Damit Sungai Brunei 593 Taman Persiaran Damuan 604 Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 233
Semporna 476-7, 349 Simud Putih 470 Snake Temple 190 Sungai Jaong 371-2 Taman Rama Rama 89 Dhammikarama 180
Semporna Islands Marine Park 477-8 Singapore 512-88, 534-47 snakes 64 Sungai Jasin 261, 262 Taman Tasik Taiping 162 Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist
senior travellers 577 accommodation 548-53, 575 Pulau Kalampunian Damit 454 Sungai Keniam 289 Tambunan 447-8 Temple 180
Sentosa Island 526-7, 352 activities 529-32 temples 190 Sungai Kinabatangan 464, 470-3, Tanah Rata 150, 152-3, 152 Hainan Temple 179
Sepang Circuit 128 attractions 514-28 snooker 530 6, 351 Tanjung Bidara 227, 244 Kek Lok Si Temple 189
Sepilok Bay 468 Changi 520-2 snorkelling 484-5, see also diving Sungai Klias 454 Tanjung Datu National Park 336, 378 Kek Look Tong 147-54
Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Chinatown 517-18, 542-3, 12 etiquette 485 Sungai Liang Forest Recreation Park 605 Tanjung Rhu 208 Khoo Kongsi 167
Centre 467-9 climate 576 Mersing 256 Sungai Marang 307 Tanjung Simpang Mengayu 461 Kuan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple 516
Seremban 220-3, 221 clubbing 568 national parks 66 Sungai Melinau 409 Tanjung Tuan lighthouse 224 Leong San see Temple 518-19
Serendah 125 Colonial District 514-16, 540 Pulau Kapas 309 Sungai Palas Tea Estate 153 Tapah 137 Loo Pun Hong 179
Seria 606-7 cycling 529, 586 Pulau Langkawi 209 Sungai Petani 198-9 tapirs 62 Mutamariman Temple 234
Serian 378 drinking 564-7 Pulau Lang Tengah 312 Sungai Petuang 304-5 TAR National Park, see Tunku Abdul Perak Tong 145-7
Seribuat Archipelago 258-62 embassies 577 Pulau Pangkor 141 Sungai Pinang 190-1 Rahman National Park Sakaya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple
shadow puppets 55, 58 emergency services 577 Pulau Payar Marine Park 209 Sungai Rayu Trail 373 Tasek Merimbun 605 518-19
Shah Alam 130 entertainment 567-70 Pulau Perhentian 314-15 Sungai Santubong 370 Tasik Chini 280 Sam Poh Temple 153
shipwrecks, see wrecks festivals 528-9 Pulau Rawa 259 Sungai Sapulut 452 Tasik Dayang Bunting 209 Sam Poh Tong 147
shrines, see temples food 554-64 Pulau Redang 310 Sungai Sepia 289 Tasik Kenyir 304-5 San Ching Tian temple 399
shophouses 54 geography 60 Pulau Tioman 268 Sungai Tahan 289 tattoos 343 Sikh Temple 92
Georgetown 173 history 513 responsible snorkelling 485 Sungai Tembeling 264, 287 Tawau 478-81, 479 Snake Temple 190
Ipoh 145 holidays 578 Seribuat Archipelago 258 Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve 523 Tawau Hills Park 421, 481 Sri Mahamariamman Temple 88
Kuching 344 internet access 578 Snow City 525 Sunway Lagoon 129 taxes 78, 494, 499, 571, 579 Sri Mariamman Temple 179, 517
Melaka 233 itineraries 519 Songkran Festival 490 swimming taxi travel Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple 518-19
Papar 436 Kampong Glam 519, 537 South & Southeast Asian Gallery 524 Burmese Pools 163 to/from Singapore 585 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 518
Taiping 163 Little India 518, 537 spas 94, 531, 207 Gunung Gading National Park 377 within Bandar Seri Begawan 603 Temple of the Reclining Buddha 180
shopping medical services 579 special events 489-91, see also festivals Kuala Lumpur 94 within Malaysia 508 Thean Hou Temple 93
antiques 187, 571-2 money 577, 579-80 spelunking, see caving Lambir Hills National Park 396-7 within Kuala Lumpur 120 Thian Hock Keng Temple 517
art 571-2 Orchard Road 520, 544-5 Sri Aman 379 Lubok Simpon 289 within Singapore 587-8 Tua Pek Kong Temple 382
batik 280, 303, 327 postal services 580 Sri Krishna Jayanti 490, 529 Singapore 531 tea plantations Wak Hai Cheng Bio Temple 518
cameras 573 Quays, the 516-17 Sri Mahamariamman Temple 88 Sunway Lagoon 129 Boh Tea Estate 153, 358 Wat Chayamangkalaram 180
Chinese medicine 573 Sentosa Island 526-7 Sri Mariamman Temple 179, 517 Tasik Dayang Bunting 209 Cameron Bharat Tea Plantation 153 Wat Kok Seraya 330
crafts 113, 187-8, 327, 365, 571-2 shopping 571-5 Sri Menanti 223 Sungai Palas Tea Estate 153 Wat Maisuwankiri 330
department stores 573-5 telephone services 580 Sri Rama Navami 490 T teahouses 558 Wat Matchinmaram 330
electronic equipment 573 tourist information 581 Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple 518-19, 364 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 476 Telaga Tujuh 207 Wat Phothivihan 330
export restrictions 365 tours 533-48, 574-5, 574 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 518-19 Tabung Haji 89 telephone services Wat Pikulthong 330
fashion 573 travel to/from 582-5 State Mosque (Kota Kinabalu) 426-32 Taiping 161-4, 162 Brunei 610-11 Wat Siam Nikrodharam 201
INDEX

INDEX
festivals 98 travel within 585-8 STDs 618 Take Art! 528 Malaysia 494-5 Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda 189
visas 497, 581 Stepping Stone Cave 331 Talang-Satang National Park 336, 378 Singapore 580 tennis 94-7, 530
000 Map pages Singapore Art Museum 515 stilt villages, see also longhouses Taman Alam Kuala Selangor 123 Telok Melano 377 Tenom 449-51, 450
000 Photograph pages Singapore Arts Festival 528 Kampung Ayer 595, 363 Taman Alam Kuala Selangor Nature Telok Pandan Besar 369 tenpin bowling 531
Singapore Botanic Gardens 520, 355, 511 Kukup 254 Park 131-2 Teluk Bahang 191-2, 192 Terengganu 297-318, 298
 © Lonely Planet Publications
656 I n d e x ( T- V ) I n d e x ( V - Z ) 657

tetanus 614 tours, see also boat trips Pulau Perhentian 315 vegetarian travellers 75 Durian Perangin 208 Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation
Thai Pongal 490 Bandar Seri Begawan 598 Pulau Tioman 263 Vesak Day 528 Gunung Stong 331 Centre 373-4
Thaipusam 52, 181, 490, 528 batik 324 responsible trekking 337 Villa Sentosa 233 Kipungit Waterfalls 446 Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation
Thean Hou Temple 93 bird-watching 548 Sarawak 337, 408 Vinayagar Chathuri 491, 529 Langanan Waterfall 447 Centre 467-9
theatre 53, 55-56 Cameron Highlands 155-6 Taman Negara 289 visas 496-7, see also passports, permits Lata Iskandar 152 Sungai Kinabatangan 470-3
Chinese opera 567 cycling 235, 427 tours 336, 400 Brunei 611 Latak Waterfall 396 Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve 523
Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay 515 diving 427 tribal body art 343 Malaysia 335, 421, 496-7 Maliau Falls 475 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 476
Kuala Lumpur 113 food 533 tribes, see indigenous peoples Singapore 581 Sekayu Falls 304 Wind Cave 376
internet resources 55 Gomantong Caves 464 trishaws 586, 11, 358 visual arts 59 Wasai Wong Kadir 605 windsurfing
shadow puppets 55, 58 Gunung Mulu National Park 410 Tua Pek Kong Temple 382 volcanoes water-skiing 193 Balok Beach 279
Singapore 570 jungle trekking 290, 324, 400, 410 Tuaran 458-9 Pulau Tiga National Park 454-5 wawa (black monkey) 415 Beserah 279
theft 247, 443, 488-9 Kuala Terengganu 301 Tuberculosis 614, 618 Pulau Tinggi 259 Wawasan 2020 28, 41 Winter Solstice Festival 491, 529
theme parks longhouses 336, 345, 386, 387 Tugu Drum Circle 93 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 476 Weapons Gallery 323 Wisma Lok 92
Ayer Keroh 243 Malaysia 509 Tumpat district 329-30 volunteering 498 weaving 57-8 women in Malaysia, Singapore &
Genting Highlands 125 Orang Asli people 324 Tumpat temples 330 Wesak Day 330, 490 Brunei 52-3, 50, 589
Haw Par Villa 524 Pinnacles, The 410 Tun Mustapha 420 W weights 483, 576, see also inside front women travellers
Jerudong Park Playground 603 rubber plantations 256 Tun Sakaran Marine Park 421, 477-8 Wak Hai Cheng Bio Temple 518 cover Brunei 611
Lost World of Tambun 150 Sabah 422 Tunku Abdul Rahman (TAR) National walking, see also canopy walkways, White Rajas 35 Malaysia 497
Port Dickson Ostrich Farm 225 Sandakan 464 Park 434-5 jungle trekking, trekking white-water rafting, see also kayaking Singapore 581
Sunway Lagoon 129 shopping 574-5 Turtle Beach 393 Bako National Park 368-70, 370 Beaufort 452 health 622-3
Taman Mini Malaysia/Asean 243 silversmithing 324 Turtle Islands National Park 421, 464, Endau-Rompin National Park 260 Malaysia 486 woodcarving 58
Underwater World (Pulau Singapore 533-48, 548 469-70 Kuala Tahan 288 Miri 400 work 498, 581-2
Langkawi) 206 Sungai Kinabatangan 464 turtles 63, 64-5, 306-7, 64, 360, see Lambir Hills National Park 396-7 Sungai Tembeling 287 wrecks
Underwater World (Sentosa trekking 336, 400 also individual species Mt Kinabalu 440 wildfires 69, 409-10 Atago-maru 400
Island) 526 Turtle Islands National Park 464 Cherating 280 Pulau Pangkor 141 wildlife 60-5, see also animals, plants, HMS Prince of Wales 268
Thian Hock Keng Temple 517 walking 95-7, 235-7, 548 internet resources 63 Pulau Tioman 268-9 individual species, reserves, wildlife HMS Repulse 268
Thimithi (Fire-Walking Ceremony) wildlife 427 Ma’ Daerah Turtle Sanctuary 307 Similajau National Park 393 sanctuaries, zoos Miri 400
491, 529 Traders’ Cave 394 Pulau Sibu 259 Taman Negara 288-90 books 66 Pulau Aur 259
Thompson, Jim 156 traditional medicine 622 Pulau Sipadan 477, 360 tours 95-7, 181, 235-7, 574-5 endangered species 63 Pulau Mantanani 459
tiger leeches 620 train station, old (Kuala Lumpur) 253, 81 Pulau Tioman 265 Wasai Wong Kadir 605 environmental issues 287 Pulau Tioman 268
tigers 62, 63 train travel Rantau Abang 306-7 wasp stings 621 internet resources 63 WWII 36-7, 464
Endau-Rompin National Park 260 to/from Kuala Lumpur 117 Talang-Satang National Park 378 Wat Chayamangkalaram 180 wildlife sanctuaries, see also national
Singapore Zoo 522 to/from Singapore 585 Tanjung Datu National Park 378 Wat Kok Seraya 330 parks, reserves, zoos Y
Taman Negara 287 within Kuala Lumpur 118-20 Turtle Islands National Park 421, Wat Maisuwankiri 330 Butterfly and Reptile Sanctuary 243 yoga 94, 532
time 495-6, 580-1, 658-9 within Malaysia 509, 509-10 464, 469-70 Wat Matchinmaram 330 Jurong Bird Park 525
Tip of Borneo 461 Transit Day Pass 585 Tutong 605-7 Wat Phothivihan 330 Kota Kinabalu City Bird Sanctuary 426 Z
tipping 581 travel insurance 492-3 TV 50, 483, 576, 609 Wat Pikulthong 330 Kuala Gandah Elephant zoos, see also wildlife sanctuaries
Titi Kerawang 191 travellers cheques 494, 579-80 Twelve Roofs House 597 Wat Siam Nikrodharam 201 Conservation Centre 296 Ayer Keroh 243
toilets 496, 581 trekking, see also jungle trekking, Typhoid 614, 618 water, drinking 619 Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Melaka Zoo 243
tombs, see also cemeteries walking Typhus 619 water sports 531-2, see also individual Sanctuary 469 Sabah Zoological & Botanical
Ahmad Majnun grave 224 Bario Loop 418 activities Ma’ Daerah Turtle Sanctuary 307 Park 436
Hang Kasturi’s Tomb 236 books 288 U waterfalls Matang Wildlife Centre 373 Singapore Zoo 522
Hussein of Johor 235 Cameron Highlands 154-5 Ulu Rayu Trail 373 Buaya Sangkut Falls 261-2 Sabah Zoological & Botanical Zoo Negara 124
Leonowens, Thomas 177 Danum Valley Conservation Area 419 Ulu Temburong National Park 593, 608 Carson’s Falls 441 Park 436 Zoo Taiping & Night Safari 162-3
Madai Caves 476 Gunung Ledang 255 Underwater World (Pulau Langkawi) 206
Sultan Bolkiah 597 Gunung Mulu National Park 408 Underwater World (Sentosa Island) 526
tourist information, see also individual Gunung Mulu Trail 409 Unesco sites
destinations Headhunters’ Trail 409 Gunung Mulu National Park 335,
Brunei 611 Kelabit Highlands 414-15 400, 405-8, 406, 361
Malaysia 496 Kenong Rimba State Park 295 Mt Kinabalu 437, 439 © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
INDEX

INDEX
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Penan Treks 415 V
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