Professional Documents
Culture Documents
5. What is the maintenance works carried out after covering first 1000km?
At the end of the first 1000 km, the engine-sump gear box, back axle casing etc: are drained and
filled up with recommended grade of lubricants. All cylinder head nuts are checked for tightness,
and the inlet and exhaust manifoldness are also checked. All working joints of the vehicle viz
carburetor dried pump clutch, brake mechanism joints are oiled well. The steering system and
spring shackles are lubricated. The cooling system is checked for leakage. Spark plugs, and
automatic ignition controls are cleaned. Fuel filters are inspected and wheel alignment and
lightness are checked.
PART – B
1. What the types of maintenance and shortly brief/them.
Types of Maintenance
Preventive maintenance or scheduled maintenance Predictive maintenance Breakdown
maintenance or unscheduled maintenance
Preventive Maintenance
It is a schedule of planned maintenance actions aimed at the prevention of breakdowns and
failure. Primary goal is to prevent the failure of equipment before it actually occurs. Preserve and
enhance the equipment or vehicle reliability by replacing worn components before they actually
fail.
Preparation of checkup
One should have the good understanding of the entire system and parts involved in it.
Identifying the parts and the interval of which it has to be done. Identifying what has to be
done
Maintenance Records or log
It is a journal or book of all maintenance performed on a particular vehicle. Each entry
includes a date, mileage as of that day, details of about the type of work done, and who
performed the service.
If also include receptor and a schedule for further maintenance.
It will clearly tell the frequency at which the oil changes, fire rotations, Brake inspections or
replacements etc are done hence monitoring activity an be done early.
plug is thoroughly clean. 15. Blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air. 16. Widen the
plug Gap by bending the Ground (side) electrode so that an ignition point file
may be inserted between the electrodes.
Figure:
17. fill the electrodes until all the carbon is removed and the tip of the central electrode is flat
across the top. 18. Adjust the Gap to correct specification. 19. Ensure that the plug seating
surface in the head is clean. 20. Install the plug. 21. Tighten the plugs using a Torque wrench to
correct specification. (most) 4mm plugs are
Tightened to approximately four Kg N. 22. It torque wrench not available, Tighten the plug
finger tight. Then using a socket wrench
Tighten it approximately halt a turn. 23. Inspect the plug wires. It insulation is brittle. Replace
the wire. 24. Clean the distributor cap. 25. Re install the plug wires to the same cylinder from
which they were removed.
7. Write down the daily and weekly maintenance schedule o an automobile.
Daily Maintenance
1. Clean vehicle 2. Check engine oil level and top up if necessary 3. Check radiator water level
and top up 4. Inspect tyre for normal pressure and ensure that no tyre is fist 5. Check for fuel in
tank 6. Check up whether light and electrical accessories are functioning well 7. Check up brake
for normal functioning 8. Start engine and check up performance
Weekly Maintenance
1. Check electrolyte level in battery and add distilled water if necessary 2. Clean battery
terminals and apply vasoline to prevent corrosion 3. Check tyre pressure and inflate if necessary
to correct pressure
chamber etc. 6. Wash vehicle with water mixed with detergent or with soap water. 7. Check oil
leak if any from engine, transmission and differential and arrange to rectify. 8. Clean plays and
refit if the vehicle is petrol driven 9. Tighten joint belts and axle bolts. 10. Tighten spring and
shackle bolts and nuts if necessary 11. Adjust fan belt play if necessary. 12. Check up water
pump grease cup and repack, if necessary 13. Check whether Dynamo is functioning well.
Adjust regulator if necessary. 14. Check oil in steering box gear box and differential and top up
if necessary.
8. Write dour the monthly, quarterly and half yearly maintenance schedule an automobile.
Monthly Maintenance
1. Service vehicle at appropriate data 2. Check up and adjust free ply of brake 3. Check up and
adjust free ply of clutch 4. Soap wash vehicle, polish if the vehicle is station wagon. 5. Change
engine oil at appropriate mileage. 6. Check up and tune up vehicle (minor) petrol driven 7.
Tighten engine gear box and body mounting bolt. 8. Remove all the wheels, check brake drums,
brake linings, change brake linings and turns
up brake drums if necessary. 9. Examine all wheel bearings for what before refitment. 10.
Remove old grease and repack with fresh grease.
Quarterly Maintenance
1. Tighten body bolts and change packing if necessary 2. Blow and adjust brakes 3. Carry out
engine tune up if petrol driven vehicle 4. Check up pedals side play and rectify 5. Check up and
renew engine counting beds 6. During service, remove and clean shackle pin if necessary. 7.
Check up steering linkages and play and adjust if necessary 8. In case of diesel engines overhaul
injectors, besides the above items of wash, all the items
mentioned in the monthly maintenance schedule should be carried out during quarterly
maintenance also.
Half yearly maintenance or fitness certificate work
1. Remove gear box 2. Check differential
3. Overhaul all four wheel brakes and the Universal joints
4. Top over haul engine end decarbonizes
5. Over haul carbonator
6. In diesel overhaul injectors and pumps and recalibrate (This should be done by the
authorized agencies and preferably in air conditioned rooms).
7. Overhaul water pump
8. Overhaul dynamo and self starter
9. Overhaul exhauster or air compressor
10. Check all wirings and switches
11. Carryout body repairs, including linear work
12. Repaint vehicles, if lorry or van.
9. Explain the various types of records books and form that are being used in automobile
service station of cards.
Dealer: Place: Data of Sale: SERVICE TYPE
Ro No:
Mileage:
Kms:
Ro Date:
Engine No:
Frame No:
Mileage (Kms) 10000 30000 50000 70000 90000 110000 130000 150000 Service type
Mileage(Kms) 170000 190000 210000 230000 250000 270000 290000 310000 Service type
Mileage(Kms) 330000 350000 370000 390000 410000 430000 450000 470000 Service type
Mileage (Kms) 490000 510000 530000 550000 570000 590000 610000 630000 Service type
S.No. CHECK ITEM CHECK STATUS REMARKS 1 Basic engine components
Engine oil
Engine oil filter
R
R
2 IGNITION SYSTEM
Battery
T
3 FUEL AND EMISSION CONTROL
Pre-filter
Water sediment filter
Air cleaner filter
R
CA
C
4 CHASSIS AND BODY
Brake pedal, Parking brake
Brake pads and discs
Brake lining and Brake drums
CA
CA
CA
Brake line pipes and hoses
Brake fluid
Clutch
Power steering fluid
Ball Joints and dust covers
Tyres and inflation pressures
Lights, horns, wipers
Steering wheel linkage and gear box oil
Front and rear suspension
Tightening of bolts and nuts
R
CA
CR
CR
CA
CA
CA
CA
T
5 AC/Cooler Refrigerant NA C Clean; R Replace; CA Check & Adjust; CR Check & Replace; T
Tighten ADDITIONAL JOB: MILEAGE 1,50,000 4,50,000 TIMING BELT Replace Replace
Name of the Inspector
Signature
The status and remarks for all the items mentioned above are indicated on the check sheet
during the maintenance operation.
Vehicle Regn No: Job No:
Chassis No: Date:
Table: Road Test Report
S. No. Parameter to check Before work After work 1 Front side abnormal noise 2 Rear side
abnormal noise 3 Front/rear suspension noise 4 Steering noise 5 Brake caliper noise
26. Explain the procedure for servicing the wheel cylinder of braks?
Install all the other components with the wheel cylinder and fin it on the wheel.
Bleed the system to remove air.
1. Pedal does not return fully Lubricate (or) recondition
pedal shaft & bushers. 2. No clearance but push rod
and master cylinder piston
Adjust brake pedal free play
3. Improperly adjusted service
brake (or) hand brake
Check & adjust
4. Recuperating and feed port Service master cylinder
clogged in master cylinder 5. Swollen seals Flush the system and replace
all rubber parts
6. Seized wheel cylinder piston Cylinder services (or) replace
wheel cylinder
7. Improper Brake fluid Replace 8. Weak (or) Broken shoe
return spring
Replace
9. Blocked filler cap and hole Clean (or) replace the cap.
28. What are the causes and remedies for one wheel drag?
1. Weak or broken retracting springs Replace the springs 2. Clearance between shoe & drum to a
small
in a wheel
Adjust
3. Loose wheel bearing Adjust 4. Wheel cylinder cup seals swollen & piston
seized
Service with kit
5. Excessive ovality of drum True the drum clean and flush 6. Obstructed hydraulic Replace
shoes 7. Distorted shoes Replace with proper linins 8. Incorrect grade of lining 9. Draging of
Rear brake Adjust 10. Mal adjustment Lubricate & 11. Parting Brake cable seized adjust
29. What are the causes and remedies for hard pedal or poor braking?
1. Causes Remedy 2. Incorrect linning Adjust properly 3. Grease or oil soaked lining Replace 4.
Un bedded living Bed lining properly 5. Glazed lining Sand paper the lining surface 6. Pedal
binding on the shaft Lubricate (or) condition 7. Seized master cylinder or
wheel cylinder discon
Service with kit.
8. Wrongly fitted shoes Install leading & trailing shoes
correctly
9. Bell mouthed barrel shaped
(or) polished drum
Replace (or) reborb the down.
30. What are the causes and remedies for reduced brake pedal travel?
S.No Causes Remedy 1. Master cylinder recrepeting
hole blocked
Service the master cylinder 2. Swollen cup seal in master
Flash the system and replace
all insber pads. 3. Weak shoes retracting spring Service & replace inserted part 4. Wheel cylinder
Replace the spring 5. Lining swelling Replace lining. 31. What are the causes and remedies
for Judden in brake pedal?
1. Excessive ovality of drum True the drum 2. Loose drum on hub Tighten 3. Worn (or) loose
bearing Replace or adjust 4. Rusty drum De rust (or) replace
Batteries which are not too badly sulphate may often be reconditioned by charging at a
very low rate from
1
5
to
1
10
their normal charging current. The charging should be continued until
the battery begins to gas freely when it should be discharged through high resistance at about
1
3
to
1
4
ampere note.
Other battery troubles which may occur are internal short circuiting of the plates due to the
For charging the battery the instructions of the manufacturer are to be strictly followed. A
battery in good condition can be given a rapid or boost charge such that it is charged in
1
d
to 1
hour . The acid temperature should not exceed 110 F during this, process.
For the regular maintenance of the battery the following equipments instruments and materials
and required.
i) Battery charger
ii) Hydrometer
iii) Voltmeter with loading resistors
iv) Distilled water
v) Acid solution (H2SO4)
vi) Terminal cleanser
vii) Wiping cloth etc
Maintenance of the vehicle tyres:
Automobile types are costly items and are subjected to rapid wear maintained properly periodic
inspection for the correct inflation pressure, wheel alignment, toe-in, camber, etc, will prolong
the life of the tyre. For removing a tyre with tube, the tube is first deflated and then both the
beads are pushed off then rim seatings with a tyre lever. The bead on the valve side should be
first loosened with a tyre lever and pushed in to the rim well on the opposite side of the wheel to
the valve. Using a second tyre lever, about 2” away from the first the bead should be prised over
the rim and then the rest of the bead will readily come over the rim. When a tube is inserted into
its cover, it should be slightly inflated before attempting to replace the tyre bead in position.
Excessive or irregular tyre wear can be due to several different causes which includes.
(i) In correct inflation pressure (ii) Wrong steering mechanism geometry (iii) Incorrect camber,
castor and toe-in (iv) Bad driving of the car (v) Unbalanced wheel and tyre (vi) Worn stearing
mechanism and king pins.
The tyre inflation pressure depends upon the size of the tyre, the load on the tyres and the
maximum speed at which the vehicle is driven. Some causes of excessive tyre wear
(a) Under inflation
(b) Over inflation
(c) Excessive camber
(d) Excessive toe-in
If the tyre pressure is much lower than the correct value, then the type walls will flux more and
greater stress will occur on the type cords, causing, greater heat to on the weaken the casing .
The result will be uneven wear on the read, reduced vehicle performance, greater roll on curves
and higher fuel consumption. There will be greater tread contact area with the ground.
The higher inflation pressure causes greater tyre chord stresses and increased wear on the centre
of the tread. It also tends to reduce the further over inflated tyre is more susceptible to cuts and
brusises.
Excessive wheel camber will cause greater wear on the outer ribs of the tyre. For excessive
negative camber the inside tyre ribs will wear more.
If the toe-in is greater than the correct distance given by the manufacturer, then the front wheel
tyre will develop fins on the outside edges which will shorten the tyre life. If the front wheel
have too much toe-out the tread ribs will shown fins, but on the opposite sides of the ribs.
If a car with correct camber angle is regularly driven on a well cambered road the left hand front
tyre will tend to wear more than the other tyres.
Severe acceleration, breaking, steering action and springing movements will cause irregular
spotty wear on the front tyres as if they were tonehed in places with high speed grinding wheel.
When a vehicle wheel, driven at moderate speed strikes the side of a road kerb or any other solid
object the impact will often fracture the tyre casing chood, with the result of a later tyre fail by
blow ow.
If the wheel unit is out of balance, road shocks of a vibratory kind known as tramp and steering
shimmy may occur. The forms is due to wheel unbalance in the radial sence and the latter due to
unbalanced region out of centre.
When the complete tyre and wheel is tested for balance, the lighten side of the wheel is revealed
and the correct balance is effected by placing lead weights specially designed for the purpose, on
the rims lighter side.
The rate of tread wear increases fairly rapidly with the vehicle speed. The following figures by
the Dunlop Rubber company emphasigs this
Average speed Mileage obtained
Other factors affecting tyre wear include condition of road surface, road curves and graduals,
and temperature. The rate of wear on warm, roader is twice to that if cold roads.
Method of sealing small punctures of tubeless tyres with rubber sealing plug.
Method of changing tyres around to obtain maximum mileages
Method of adjusting valve stem clearance of OHV Engines
A useful valve facing tool
Figure: Mechanic toe gauge used to measure the distance between the centres at the front
and back of the tires. The difference is distances is the total toe (Mutsubishi Motor Sales of
America. Inc) Of frame bracket. When the shims are inside the frame bracket (Figure) adding
shims moves the
Adding shims at one bolts and removing from the other moves the outer end of the uppercontrol
arm forward or backward. This increases or decreases caster figure:
Note:Some trucks have an I-beam front axle and leaf springs (figure) instead of upper and lower
control arms. Caster is adjusted by installing tapered caster shims between the spring and the
axle. If the shims are installed backward, the axle will have excessive negative caster. The drive
may complain of difficulty in keeping the truck in a straight-ahead position, wander and pull.
2. Cam-Bolt Adjustment Figure shows one arrangement using offset or eccentric cam bolts to
adjust caster and camber. The two bushings at the inner end of the upper control arm attach to
the frame brackets with two cam bolts. Tuning the cam bolts the same amount in the same
direction changes camber. Figure: Caster and camber adjustments on some vehicles using
shims (Chevolet Division of General Motors Corporation).
Turning only one cam bolt or turning both cam bolts in opposite direction changes caster. On
some vehicles , the cam bolts are in the inner ends of the lower-control arms.
Figure: Caster and camber adjustments by turning offset, or eccentric, cam bolts (ATW)
3. Pivot-Shaft Adjustment This arrangement has slots in the frame at the two points where the
upper control-arm pivot shaft attaches bolts and moving the pivot shaft in or out changes camber.
4.Struct-Rod AdjustmentChanging the length of the suspension strut rod changes caster .
Turning the cam bolt on the inner end of the lower control arm changes camber. Caster and
Camber Adjustments (Strut suspension).
Many vehicles with MacPherson struts do not have camber and caster adjustments. Other have a
cam bolt at the lower end of the adjust camber.(Figure). Turning the cam bolt moves the top of
the wheel in or out. If no camber adjustment is provided, some manufacturers recommend
enlarging the bolts holes in the bottom of the strut. On some MacPherson strut Suspensions,
caster and camber are adjusted at the upper strunt mount (figure) Moving the strut toward the
front or rear changes caster. Moving the strut in or out changes camber.
Toe Adjustment:
After making caste rand camber adjustments, check and adjust toe. Front wheel toe is measured
with the steering wheel centered and the wheels straight ahead. Figure shows a mechanical too
gauge that measures total toe. Its length is adjusted so the pointers are at the centers of the tires.
The total toe is the difference in distance between tire centers at the rear and at the front.
To adjust toe, loosen the tie-rod locknuts (figure) Rotate the rods until the toe measurement is
set to specifications. Do not allow the boots on the ends of the steering gear to twist while
making the adjustment. Then tighten the tie –rod locknuts to the specified torque.
Steering- Wheel Centering
When all four wheels are properly aligned and there is not thrust angle, the steering wheel will
be centered while the vehicle is moving straight ahead (figure). If not, the steering wheel can be
centered by adjusting the tie rods. Adjust the tie rods to steer the front wheel in the same
direction the steering wheel is off center. For example, if the steering wheel is off center to the
right, adjust the tie rods to make the front wheels steer toward the right.
To make the adjustment, loosen the locknuts and turn both tie rods the same amount in the same
direction. (Figure). On one car, only 1/5 turn of the tie rods moves the steering-wheel rim 0.250
inch [6 mm] or 2 degrees.
Caster Adjustment slide the upper plate toward the front of car until the desired caster reading is
obtained. Camber Adjustment slide the Large Lock nut toward or away from the Engine until the
desired camber reading is obtained.
Figure: Adjusting caster and camber on a MacPherson strut by repositioning the upper
strut mount (Moog. Automotive, Inc).
Figure: Adjusting to by changing the length of tie rod (Chrysler Corporation).
Figure: Tie rod adjustments to center the stering wheel (Chrysler Corporation).
Rear-Wheel Alignment:
Many front-wheel drive vehicles have stub axles or spindles on which the rear hubs and wheels
mount. Rear wheel camber and too may be adjustable. Rear-wheel caster is usually set to zero
and is not adjustable. Rear-wheel caster is usually set to zero and is not adjustable. Various
methods of adjusting rear-wheel camber and toe are described below. Refer to the vehicle service
manual for rear-wheel alignment procedures on specific vehicles.
1. Adjusting Rear-Wheel Camber in some vehicles, camber is adjusted by turning a cam bolt
in the inner end of the lower-control arm or spindle-support rod. On other vehicle, shims placed
between the spindle and the mounting plate provide the camber adjustment.
Figure: Adjusting rear-wheel camber by turning a cam bolt in the inner end of the lower-
control arm, or spindle support rod. (Chevrolet Division of motors Corporation).
Figure: Using shims to adjust rear-wheel camber and toe, adjustments at the left-rear
wheel are shown. (Chrysler Corporation).
(a) Adjusting control arm postion
Figure: Adjusting rear wheel toe by (A) adjusting control arm position and (B) shimming
the trailing arms. (Buick Division of General Motors Corporation, Dana Corporation)
PART – A
1. Explain the importance and various features of battery maintenance.
Maintenance of the vehicle battery
Most of the vehicles use the lead-acid battery using separate packs of positive and negative
plates immersed in a solution of sulphuric acid.
The battery must be properly maintained at all times, since any failure of it will put the vehicle
out of action. The various maintenance item for a typical battery are illustrated in the figure.
The electrolyte solution of the battery is mark by adding gradually 1 volume of commercial
sulphuric acid of 1.835 density to 3 volumes of distilled water to give a final cool solution of
check 1.28 to 1.29 density of the electrolyte at fully-charged, half charged and completely,
discharged conditions are 1.28 to 1.29, 1.19 to 1.21 and 1.11 to 1.13 respy: all at 80o F.
The acid density is frequently checked with a hydrometer, which consists of an outer glove tube,
with a rubber to dip into the acid and an inner calibrated glass float to read the acid density.
Lower reading from any one cell of the battery indicates a faulty cell.
The acid level is to be kept just above the top of the plates. If the level drop through evaporation
as in hot weather or through are charging, distilled water n to be used to bring up the acid level.
However if the level falls during charging when the acid is splashed out due to gassing, or the
acid accidentally spilt, fresh acid solution is to be used. When the vehicle is in used, the battery
should be checked and of necessary topped-up every month or so.
2. Draw the cut section view-of a battery and the maintenance activities or each component.
Figure:
Voltage of the battery measured across its terminals cannot indicate the condition of the battery,
under a special form of voltmeter which apphes an electric load by means of shunting resistance
which taken a heavy current discharge for a short time is used. A fully charged battery cell
should read 215 to 2.2 volts otherwise it is defective.
The battery should never be left in a semi-or fully discharged condition for long. It is advisable
to give the battery an occasional charge when the car is not used. Of the vehicle is to be laid up
for a long period, the battery can be stored by the dry method. To do this the battery is first fully
charged and then the electrolyte drained out. The pitch seal is removed with the aid of a hot iron
and the wooden separators taken out, dried and stored in a dry place. The battery plates are also
dried. When the battery is again required, it is reassembled, filled with electrolyte and charged.
Every twelve months when in normal use, empty out the electrolyte, wash out the sediments
from the sediment wells with distilled water and refill with fresh electrolyte and charge.
The battery terminates must be kept clean from the corroded products, otherwise it will act as a
insulator. For this terminals can be coated with Vaseline or thick grease.
A white deposit formed on the plates in an indication of the neglect of the battery. This is due to
sulphation, lead sulphate being formed.
Batteries which are not too badly sulphated may often be reconditioned by charging at a
very low rate from
11
to
5 10
. Their normal charging current. The charging should be continued
until the battery begins to gas freely when it should be discharged through high resistance at
about
11
to
34
ampere rate.
Other battery troubles which may occur are internal short circuiting of the plates due to the
breaking away of the paste from the plates and its lodgement between the plates and buckled
plates due to excessive vibration or constant overchanging.
For charging the battery the instructions of the manufacturer are to be strictly followed. A
battery in good condition can be given a rapid or boost charge such that it in charged in
1
to 1
2 hour. The acid temperature should not exceed 110o F during this process.
3. What are the equipment required for battery maintenance.
For the regular maintenance of the battery the following equipments, instruments and materials
are required.
(i) Battery charger (ii) Hydrometer (iii) Voltmeter with loading resistors (iv) Distilled water (v)
Acid solution (H2SO4) (vi) Terminal cleanser (vii) Wiping cloth etc.
4. What are the causes for self state starter not tuning up? Explain briefly.
If the lights become dim or go our when the starter switch is closed, the battery maybe too weak
to operate the starter. In this case a push start is needed. Cars equipped with alternators cannot be
push started if the battery is complete dead because alternators retain no residual magnetism.
Due to starter circuit
1. Low battery 2. Connections loose, dirty, corroded or broken at battery terminals, starter switch
terminal or
battery ground strap. 3. Short circuit across starter terminals. 4. Neutral start switch out of
adjustment or defective.
Due to starter switch
1. Starter switch stuck 2. Defective solenoid 3. starter switch makes poor contact due to dirt,
corrosion, bent parts or weak spring 4. Starter switch fails to close circuit because of sticking or
broken contact part 5. Neutral safety switch out of adjustment or defective. Due to armature
and field circuits
1. Armature winding burned out, shorted, grounded or open circuited. 2. Field coils burned out,
shorted or grounded. 3. Broken wire in armature winding or brush pigtail lead 4. Broken wire in
field winding or broken lead 5. Loose dirty or corroded connections in field circuit.
Due to commutator and brushes
1. Brush pigtail leads loose or broken 2. Starter brushes cracked crosswise 3. Arm type brush
holder sticks 4. Brush sticks in sliding brush holder 5. Bent brush holder causes poor contact 6.
Starter brushes worn badly 7. Brush leads shorted or have loose, dirty, broken or corroded
connections 8. Poor brush contact due to weak or broken springs 9. Brushes coated with oil 10.
High (Raised) Mica between commutator serviced prevents brush contact. 11. Commutator bars
loose and or solder melted. 12. Commutator dirty, corroded or broken
Due to engine resistance
1. Piston sticking to cylinders in overheated engine 2. Piston stuck to cylinders due to gummy oil
3. Jamned generator armature 4. Combustion chamber full of water 5. Sold ICE in water pump 6.
Broken engine moving parts 7. Due to cold weather and too heavy oil
Due to armature binding
1. Loose field poles 2. Armature shaft frozen in bearings 3. Loose end plates 4. Windings thrown
out of armature slots 5. Armature locked magnetically to field poles because of loose bearing or
worn / beat shaft 6. Bendix spring retaining screen loose and jammed against housing 7.
Cracked/Distorted drive housing 8. Starter misaligned 9. Jamming due to burredteeth on pinion /
Ring gear 10. Starter pinion (sliding gear type) Jams due to incorrect endwise clearance. 5. What
are the reasons for high engine oh consumption.
1. External oil leaks 2. Leaky piston rings (Due to wear) 3. Leaky piston rings (Due to sticking
caused by gummy Deposits. Free the rings with
suitable solvent). Blue smoke indicate badly leaking rings. 4. Worn piston and cylinders 5.
Cylinder block distorted by Tightening cylinder head bolts unevenly. 6. Excessive clearance
between valve stems and guides. 7. Worn main bearing / conrod bearing. 8. Oil pressure too high
(wrong setting of oil pressure relief valve or clogged relief passage) 9. Loose piston pins 10.
Grade or oil too light (Hard driving on hot day will also consume more oil) 11. Clogged crank
case ventilation system 12. Intake manifold leak together with valve door gasket leak 13. Oil
level too high 14. Piston ring gaps not staggered 15. Incorrect ring size 16. Piston rings out of
round broken or scrod 17. Ring lands damaged 18. Ring grooves damaged and rings struck in
ring grooves.
6. What are the reasons for frequent changing of a battery?
Battery requires frequent charging
Insufficient current flow to battery
1. Defective generator / Alternator 2. Incorrect Voltage regulator setting 3. Regulator contacts
oxidized or burned 4. Sulphated battery 5. Corroded battery terminal 6. Regulator not grounded
7. Slipping fan belt, 8. Loose connections/Grounds in lighting or ignition circuits 9. Blown
regulator fuse 10. Wrong size generator drive pulley 11. Shorted or open alternator rectifiers 12.
Grounded stator wire in alternator.
7. What are the reason excessive starting load causing abnormal current flow from battery.
1. Frequent use of starter motor. 2. Excessive use of starter motor (difficult starting) 3. Faulty
starter motor 4. Excessive engine friction 5. Excessive lighting loads 6. Abnormal accessory
loads 7. Internal Discharge of battery
8. Write down the steps involved in servicing the ignition system with contact points.
1. Clean, Regap or replace spark plugs 2. Clean and inspect the ignition coil if the tower (TOP) is
cracked replace the coil 3. Replace the primary wire (coil to treasure 4. Clean and inspect the
distributor cap 5. Examine the rotor 6. Twiss the distributor seat in are of rotation and reliable it
mechanical must be repaires. 7. Inspect the contact points replace then is necessary, check and
set the cap. 8. Put a small amount of 9. Check and set the dwell using dwellmete 9. List out the
causes for the ignition system troubles and causes.
Engine misfire at all speed
1. Defective plug wires 2. Cracked distributor CAP. 3. Fouled spark plug 4. Burned valves
Engine Misfires during acceleration
1. Detective plug wires 2. Fouled or worn plugs 3. Burned contact points 4. Partially shorted
ignition coil 5. Open capacitor 6. Poor primary circuit 7. Carburetor problems
Engine Misfires At High Speed:-
1. Insufficient Dwell angle 2. Carburetor Problems
Hard Starting: 1. Burned contact points. 2. Improper Ignition timing 3. Defective Ballast
Resistor 4. Low Battery 5. Poor chohe action 6. Open capacitor 7. Ignition timing too much
Advanced
10. Ignition timing too much Advanced enumerate the starting system problems and their
causes.
Battery not holding charge
1. Internal Deffect of the battery Electrolyte op.gravity under fully discharged 1.28 STP
20oC.
2 b 2 4 b 4 2 o2PbO P H SO P SO H O Pb clachlabe carded 2. Plabe physical determation
Short circuit Antimony Green 3. Sediment at Bottom short circuit 4. Sulphation.
Gel Electrolyte
1. Sulphation Under certain condition Sulphbe is former
Hard nature
Subsequent penetration at electrodyle.
3. Electrical Leakage / Shorts 4. Excessive Electrical usage with car stopped / idling 5. Battery
not used for long periods.
PART – A
1. Write down the Maintenance of the fuel injection Sequential system?
Fuel Tank: Use proper sealing cap Every month drain sediments
Feed Pump:
Every 2000 km clean hollow screw with sieve Every 5000 km clean preliminary filter
Check rubber sealing washer, pre filter bowl, nylon valves, spring etc. Check Lining.
Filters
Every 5000 km drain water/sediments Replace filter inserts as recommended Check
overflow valve (if provided) for leakage Do not clean filter inserts.
Fuel Injection Pump:-
Every 5000 km check oil level. Drain excess oil. It level is lows top up with engine oil(only
for independent lub pump) Every 1,00,000 km replace oil (only for independence lub pump)
Every 500 km clean air breather Use good quality high pressure pipes.
2. Write the cooling system problems and causes?
Problem:
Proper cooling temp is not obtain Piston expansion (due to improper cooling) 75 - 85 C
Normal Reasons for Engine overheating:
Reduction in coolant level (loss of coolant)
Improper lubrication (High engine friction)
Belt tension is low in cooling fan & water pump. Cooling System problems and Causes:
Engine Overheating:
1. Loss of coolant 2. Defective thermostat 3. Defective water pump 4. Collapsed radiator hose 5.
Excessive Rust and seales 6. Obstructed Air passage Through Radiator 7. Late Ignition Timing
8. Combustion leak in to cooling system 9. Improper coolant Mix 10. Defective Temperature
Gauge
Engine Runs Too Cool:
1. Defective Thermostat 2. Defective Gauge
3. Write down the fuel system problems and causes?
Fuel System problems and causes:
Carburettor flooding:
1. Worn needle and seat 2. leaky float 3. Excessive fuel pump pressure 4. Improper float
adjustment. (In olden days tickler mechanisms)
Rought Idle:
1. Improper Idle mixture 2. Poor compression 3. Intake manifold leak 4. Defective spark plug
wires 5. Cracked Distributor cap 6. Stuck PCV valve
Stumbling During Acceleration:
1. Defective Accelerator pump 2. Improper Adjustment of Acc. Pump
3. Ignition misfire
Sluggish Performance:
1. Late ignition Timing
2. Tool rich or too lean mixture
3. Defective Advance mechanism
3. How will you check the cooling system?
Cooling system checks & test:
Check the coolant level. If it is low min the proper solution of antifreeze and water in an
antifreeze container and fill it to the specified level
Check the strength of antifreeze solution by wing either float hydrometer or a ball
hydrometer.
Float hydrometer:
Place the end of the rubber tube into the coolant sequeeze and release the rubber bulb. The
height of the float indicates the strength of he antifreeze. A thermometer and scale on the
filler neck. With the engine running, squeeze and release the bulb. This draws on air
sample from the cooling system through the text fluid. The test fluid is blue, if exhaust
gas is present the fluid turns yellow.
Figure:
5. Explain the pressure testing if the cooling system?
Pressure testing if the cooling system:
Fill the radiator to about 13 mm below the bottom of the filler neck. Then wipe the neck sealing
surface and attach the tester. Operate the pump to apply a pressure that doe not exceed 3 PSI
above the manufacturer’s specification. If the pressure old standy the system is not leaking. If the
pressure drops, there are leak in the system.
Make a pressure test of the radiator cap using the pressure tester. If the cap hold the pressure he
cap work properly else replace it.
Check the water pump drive belt for small cracks grease, glazing, tears a splits. Replace the
belt if needed.
6. Explain the cleaning of cooling system:
Drain the cooling system Remove the thermostat and reinstall the thermostat housing and
hose. If cooling system cleaner is used pour it into the radiator. Fill the coding system with
water. Run the engine at fast idle for about 20 min but donot allow the water to bol.
Corrosion inhibiter, foam inhibitor are some of the important additives for antifreeze. There
are two types of ethylene –glycol anti freeze, high silicate and low silicate. High silicate are wed
in aluminum cylinder head engineer and low silicate are used in engines with carrion cylinder
block and header
8. Enumerate the lubricating System Troubler, and Services?
Problems:
Engine uses too much oil
Oil –Pressure
Schedule – 2
Changing the oil every 12,500 km , if the vehicle is used several km daily and none of the
from the gasket surface. The pan and engine block. Check the gasket surface for flatness.
Check the oil pump if badly worn, services the pump or replace it.
A Air gap B Fluid tip C fluid Needle D Trigger E Fluid adjustment screen F Air
valve G --. Spreader adjustment valve H Gun body
Spray Guns of Painting
When spraying a panel use alternate right & left strokes triggering the gun at the beginning and
end of each strake the spray pattern should overlap one-half the previous stroke for smooth
coverage without streaks.
13. Draw the different types of tools use din body denting / Tinkering
Short curved pick
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