97-’03 Ford F-150 Heater Core Replacement

Feeling The Heat

Photographers:
Nov 18, 2016 Jim Smart
View Photo Gallery | 27 Photos

Anyone who has tackled heater core replacement will tell you
they’d rather have an all-night root canal than have to perform this
dreaded task. Heater core leakage begins with the subtle aroma of
antifreeze and evolves into a small wet spot on the driveway. By
the time you have coolant on the pavement there is no way around
it. You’re going to have to replace the heater core or load up on
Stop Leak.
Back in the day, on older Ford F-Series trucks, heater core
placement involved going up under the dashboard and removing
the heating and air-conditioning unit. In the ’70s, Ford began
installing HVAC systems before dashboards were bolted into the
vehicle. Dashboards, which were preassembled on rotisseries,
were installed in the vehicle via an installation fixture and a couple
of assembly workers. This approach made vehicle assembly easier
and quicker. However, it also meant extensive labor for the
technician faced with heater core and/or air-conditioning
evaporator replacement.
We’re working with a ’98 Ford F-150 with nearly 267,000 miles
on the odometer after 18 years of service. That’s pretty good,
considering most F-Series trucks have experienced chronic heater
core failure earlier in their service lives. Heater cores have always
been a weak spot in Ford vehicles for various reasons, including
excessive cooling system pressure and volume, which has been
improved in production via the use of heater hose restrictors
between the engine and heater core.
Heater core replacement in the F-Series, Expedition, and Lincoln
Navigator involves removal of the dashboard to where it can be
disconnected and swung away from the HVAC unit bolted to the
firewall. Some technicians have managed to unbolt the dashboard
and swing it out far enough to gain access to the HVAC unit.
Others disconnect the steering column and remove the entire
dashboard for easier access. It is suggested you use genuine
Motorcraft parts where possible, which are available from Rock
Auto, in your heater core replacement, including cooling system
hoses, which have the factory-style quick connections at the
firewall. Motorcraft heater hoses also have the flow-restrictor in
the “in” hose designed to prevent heater core failure from pressure
and excessive flow. Not all aftermarket replacement heater hoses
have this restrictor. Heater hose quick-connects are anything but
“quick” disconnect. You’re going to need the quick-disconnect
tool available at any auto parts store or Summit Racing Equipment.
If you’re replacing the heater hoses, you can cut the quick-connect
tabs and pull the connectors.
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Although we’re working with a ’97-to-’03-generation F-Series
truck, basic principles of replacement are the same from for ’97-to-
’17 models. Let’s get started.

Photo 2/27 | Ford F150 Heater Core Seat Belt

Photo 3/27 | In the interest of safety, the first order of business is to

disconnect the battery before performing any disassembly. Drain the
cooling system and properly dispose of any coolant. Seat and jack bracket
removal is suggested for improved access to the dashboard and HVAC
assembly. A Torx wrench is required to remove seats and seatbelts. It is a
good idea to have the cooling system flushed before heater core
replacement.

Photo 4/27 | Rocker sill molding removal is easy. It pops in and out
with no tools required. Kick panel removal, which pops in and out, is next
to gain access to wiring and modules, which have to be disconnected from
the dashboard.
Photo 5/27 | We removed the A-pillar panel and handhold for improved
access and photographic purposes, but you won’t have to do this.

Photo 6/27 | This flexible dash cap on top has to be removed carefully.
If you get aggressive with this piece, it will crack—especially when you
consider how old these trucks are today. Plastic parts become very brittle
and can crack over time. Retaining tabs were originally coated with white
grease for easy installation and removal.

Photo 7/27 | Ford F150 Heater Core Airbag Removal

Photo 8/27 | Airbag removal is performed with the removal of three

bolts (two bottom and one top), using a 10mm socket. We have removed
the glove compartment door for photo purposes, but you won’t have to.
Tabs at the top of the glovebox door can be carefully bent to each side,
which enables you to lower the door far enough to access airbag bolts and
dash screws.

Photo 9/27 | With the three bolts removed top and bottom, the airbag
assembly comes right out. A two-pin plug connects the airbag. We caution
you must be very careful with airbags during service. Store them
facedown in a protected location. Even static electricity can cause an
airbag to fire.
Photo 10/27 | Airbag bolt locations on ’97-to-’03 F-150s are in three
places (arrows).

Photo 11/27 | Passenger-side airbag looks like this from behind. There’s
a two-pin connector tied to the canister inside the module. Exercise
extreme caution with airbags: store them on their faces, away from people,
to minimize the risk of accidental deployment.

Photo 12/27 | We’re dropping the steering column for ease of access.
The steering column cover pops out without tools.
Photo 13/27 | The bezel above the instrument cluster is attached with
three screws using a 7mm socket. Once these screws are removed, the
bezel pops right out.

Photo 14/27 | You will find the dashboard is tied to the body via
seemingly dozens of these sheetmetal screws (dozens!), which are
removed with a 7mm socket. Follow these screws around the perimeter of
the dashboard. They secure the dashboard to the body. The F-150
dashboard consists of the shell you see, backed by a plastic inner
frame/ductwork assembly tied to a steel framework at the cowl. Gold cad-
plated dash screws are coarse thread for threading into plastic. Black or
natural cad-plated fine-thread screws are located at copper-plated (metal)
inserts.

Photo 15/27 | The instrument cluster is removed for improved access.

Some technicians remove the entire dashboard to make it easier to get to
the HVAC assembly, but you don’t have to do that. The objective is to
remove enough of the perimeter screws so you can swing the dashboard
out of the way. Be very careful with the main wiring loom and its
connectors.
Photo 16/27 | The steering column is secured with four flange nuts. This
removable framework is part of the dash structure and is removed as
shown to drop the steering column.

Photo 17/27 | There are four steering column support studs. This is an
integral part of the collapsible steering column.
Photo 18/27 | The dash pad “bubble” is removed next. Although this
looks like a padded dash, it is little more than a removable shell. Use a
7mm socket to remove these black cad screws.

Photo 19/27 | Disconnect the dashboard from this cluster of harnesses

and modules behind the right-hand kick panel.
Photo 20/27 | Once the dashboard has been moved out of the way,
heater core access becomes easy. A series of screws secure the top of the
HVAC plenum, which is removed for heater core and air-conditioning
evaporator access. You will need a 10mm socket for this purpose.

Photo 21/27 | Ford F150 Heater Core Solid Parts

Photo 22/27 | While you’re performing heater core replacement, it is a
good idea to check blower motor and variable resistor status. Both are
easy to access with the dashboard installed, which means you don’t have
to replace them at this time. We’ve opted for a Motorcraft heater core.
However, the factory heat blend door has a weak spot at its pivot and
should be replaced. The pivot point at the blend door actuator tends to
crack and break, which is why we’re suggesting the Dorman heat blend
door kit (#902220 or #902207) for your F-150 heater core service. The
aluminum pivot on the Dorman replacement is solid and will not fail. It is
also suggested you replace the blend door actuator.
Photo 23/27 | The variable resistor package is what affects fan speed,
not the fan switch. Fan power is routed through this resistor package to
control fan speed.

Photo 24/27 | We’ve chosen the Motorcraft heater core mostly for
reasons of guaranteed fitment. The aftermarket also offers replacement
heater cores for F-150s.
Photo 25/27 | The original factory heater blend door assembly, which
pops out without tools, is removed and replaced with the improved
Dorman blend door assembly.

Photo 26/27 | The installed Motorcraft heater core is fitted with new
foam around its perimeter. The arrow indicates where the heater blend
door splines into the electric actuator below. It is impossible to install the
blend door any way but the right way. The HVAC cap is reinstalled using
a 10mm socket.
Photo 27/27 | The new Dorman heater blend door is installed as shown.
Reinstall the HVAC cap and dashboard/steering column.

HOW TO REPLACE A BLEND

DOOR ACTUATOR
Do you hear a ticking noise from your dash when the ignition key is on? Does
your car heater blow cold or the air conditioner blow hot? These are signs that
a blend door actuator has gone bad. With a little help from our team of ASE
certified mechanics and about a half hour of your time you can replace this
part to get your climate control back working again. Or you can see what you
are paying for when taking your car in for repairs.
WHAT GOES WRONG?
A blend door actuator is made up of an electric motor that turns a plastic gear
set in one direction or another which is connected to an air control door pivot
at the final drive of the unit. An actuator can go bad in of two ways; first the
electric motor can burn out rendering the unit non-responsive so nothing
changes when the temperature or vent mode controls are moved. Next, the
plastic gear set will become brittle and break which will sometimes allow the
unit to work while making a ticking or clicking noise and then stop. This is a
common problem in most car's heater and air conditioner systems.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
An air blend door actuator is constructed from a plastic housing, a small
electric motor and a plastic gear set. A door position sensor is also incorporate
into the unit to send feed back information to the climate control computer.
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This actuator then moves temperature and air direction doors inside the heater
plenum (box) which are designed to control mode settings such as temperature,
floor, mid vent, defrost and fresh air or re-circulation modes. They also control
hot and cold settings for right and left passenger compartments.
Your car's climate control computer gives an electrical command to the
actuator to start moving the actuator motor to change air direction modes. This
direction is according to the temperature chosen by the driver or passenger on
dual climate control systems.
Most systems have three to four of these units placed in various areas around
the HVAC plenum that control mode operation and will vary by the car make
and model.
LET'S GET STARTED
You can get an OEM replacement actuator from Amazon for what the garages
pay for them in most cases. You will need a tool set including an 5.5 mm
socket for Chevy, GMC, Cadillac, Ford and Lincoln vehicles.
STEP 1: REMOVE THE LOWER DASH PANEL
OR GLOVE BOX
Using a small socket and ratchet remove the mounting bolts that hold the
under dash plastic cover on the passenger side. These screws can be in obscure
places so look around for them.
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Once you have located and removed all of the mounting screws grasp the
cover and gently pull it from the underside of the dash. This will expose the
heater box with various controls including any wiring.

Here is what it looks like when the glove box is removed exposing the blend
door actuator for replacement.

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STEP 2: REMOVE THE DOOR ACTUATOR
Here is a typical right side temperature actuator used for dual climate controls
(also temperature for signal mode units). This actuator hangs below the box
which is one of the easier units to replace.
Begin by using a small screwdriver to release the wiring safety clip on the
harness for the actuator. These clips can be brittle and break so be gentle.

Once released gently pull down on the wiring connector and remove it from
the blend door actuator. Inspect the connector for rust or corrosion and clean
as needed.
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STEP 3: REMOVE THE ACTUATOR
Locate and remove the actuator mounting screws. There should be two or three
screws holding it in place. A small universal might be needed to help remove
the screws in awkward places. Once removed place the screws into a small
container so they don't get lost.

Once all of the mounting screws have been removed the actuator should
become loose. Grasp the actuator and pull it from its mount to remove.
STEP 4: TURN THE AIR DOOR PIVOT
Before installing the new actuator it's a good idea to manually turn the blend
door in both directions to ensure it is not stuck which will cause the new
actuator to fail. Grasp the door pivot and move it back and forth to its full
travel, it should move freely. If you cannot move the blend door an obstruction
has gotten in the way of the door movement which will make the new actuator
fail. These obstructions can include: pen, tooth pick, small toy or bubble gum
to name a few. If the door is stuck the heater plenum with need to be removed
and the problem resolved before installing the new unit.
To test the blend door operation and too double check that you are changing
the correct actuator motor turn the blower motor on and work the door in each
way. You will be able to feel the air change temperature or vent level.

STEP 5: MATCH THE NEW ACTUATOR

Compare the bad actuator to the new unit. Be sure to check the wiring harness
connector terminals they should match identically. Now the new part is ready
to be installed.
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STEP 6: INSTALL THE NEW AIR BLEND

DOOR ACTUATOR
Install the new part in place as you insert the mounting screws by hand. Be
careful not to cross thread the mounting screws because they thread into the
plastic housing and can easily strip, (do not over tighten).

Once all screws are in place firmly push the wiring harness connector back
into the actuator. You should hear a click signaling the correct installing of the
connector.
STEP 7: REINSTALL THE COVER OR GLOVE
BOX
After the installation is complete double check your work and reinstall the
plastic cover. This can take some jostling to get the bolts holes lined up so
hang in there.
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Once the cover is in place start the installation of the mounting screws by
hand, once hand threaded install the remainder of the screws. Do not tighten
the first screw you have threaded in until all of the screws because it will make
the remainder of the screws harder to install.
After cover has been re-installed start the engine to test the repair job by
turning the climate control on and moving the controls from hot and cold and
from defrost to the mid and floor positions to ensure the new actuator is
working as it should.

WATCH THE VIDEO

Here is this job being done to pick up on additional tips and information before
you begin.
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BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR LOCATIONS
Begin by identifying the problem either defrost, mid or floor, or temperature
modes not working. Then locate and identify the actuator to be replaced. These
units can be either hanging in front of you or in a little more obscure places
such as on the side the HVAC plenum. Sometimes they can be located in
inconvenient places like the top of the heater box. These repairs can take a
little longer because more parts need to be removed to gain access to the
actuator.
You can use a repair resource such as Mitchell1, a paper manual found on
Amazon or a resource like Google images to locate the particular area in which
the actuator needs to be replacement.
Here is an example of a Silverado, Suburban and Tahoe locations.
RECIRCULATION ACTUATOR

MODE (DEFROST MID VENT AND FLOOR)

ACTUATOR LOCATION

RIGHT TEMPERATURE ACTUATOR

LOCATION - SIGNAL SYSTEM
TEMPERATURE ACTUATOR
LEFT TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR
LOCATION

following procedure was performed on a 1994 Thunderbird LX with

Auto-Climate controls. I used the instructions provided by Sir William but
felt a more in depth description of the dash removal and several
photographs would help those who have never attempted something like
this before. There may be slight variations depending on year and climate
options. I have broken this down into two sections Dashboard
Disassembly and Removal and Heater Core Removal and Replacement.
One hint; since there are so many screws that get removed I find it helpful
to screw them back in place a couple of turns after you remove what they
are holding, this way you are less likely to mix them up.
Dashboard Disassembly and Removal

The first and most important step when removing the dash is to disconnect
the battery and wait 5 minutes for the airbag battery backup to run down.
Set your parking brake since you will need to move the shifter out of Park
for clearance.

Start by removing the center console. If you lift up the lid of the console
you will find 2 screws in the back edge of the console trim; remove them.

Next lift up on the console piece you just removed the screws from; there
are several clips holding it in place as well as a wiring harness powering
the lighter. Note the trans will need to be in 1st for proper clearance to
remove.

Lift the lid again and remove the rubber liner from the bottom of the
storage bin, underneath you will find 4 screws; remove them.
Next remove the 2 screws holding the front of the console to the dash as
well as the 2 screws on the front sides of the center console hidden under
the plastic caps. Last but not least remove the 1 screw in the center behind
the shifter.

Next disconnect the wiring harnesses that power the trunk release, gas cap
release etc.

Lift console out and set aside.

For the next steps I found it easiest to first remove the drivers seat. There
are 4 bolts holding the seat track to the floor.
Remove the panel under the steering column; it is secured with 3 bolts at
the bottom and clips at the top. Once you have the bolts removed pull the
panel back toward you not down.

Now remove the AC duct under the steering column; it is secured with 1
screw.

Remove the 3 screws securing the steering wheel shroud and unscrew the
tilt lever.
Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder by inserting your key, then push
in the release pin on the underside and pull straight out. Now the upper
shroud will come off.

Disconnect harnesses at the base of the steering column. There are 4 snap
connectors and one main one secured with a bolt.

Remove the pinch bolt attaching the steering column to the lower yoke
and use a screwdriver to slightly spread the joint.
While supporting the steering column remove the 4 retaining nuts; be
careful not to drop the column on your head.

Now with the column lowered remove the shift interlock cable. Note these
4 screws are star type.

Gently remove the column from the car being especially careful not to
rotate the wheel.

Disconnect the main harness just above the emergency brake bracket and
also disconnect the wires leading to the brake light switch.
Remove the trim panels from around the gauges and around the radio.

Disconnect the main wiring harness at the firewall on the driver’s side by
undoing the bolt and pulling the connector backwards. Release the 3 clips
holding the other portion of the connector to the firewall and push into the
interior.

Remove the kick panels on the driver and passenger sides as well as the
trim on the pillars.
Next using a screwdriver carefully pry up on the defroster panel until all
the clips holding it are released. Unplug the sunlight intensity meter and
remove defroster panel from the car.

Open the glove box and release the piston holding it on the outer edge
then remove the 3 screws securing it to the dash and set it aside.

Unplug and remove the EEC and disconnect the harnesses around it
behind the kick panel.
Unplug the harnesses and vacuum connector running to the climate
controls.

Remove the 8mm bolts underneath the defroster panel. Be VERY careful
not to hit the windshield with your wrench. Consider wrapping it in a rag
or towel as a precaution.
Remove the 5 nuts at the bottom of the dash.

2 on the driver’s side

1 on the tunnel above the gas pedal

1 in the center section below the radio

1 on the passenger side

Now you need a friend to help. Lift and pull back on the dash until it is 6”
– 12” away from the firewall.

You can now get to any remaining harnesses behind the dash and also the
radio antenna. Once you disconnect any remaining wiring you can
carefully remove the dash and you will be left with something that looks
like this.

Replacement is simply the reverse of what you just did.

Heater Core Removal and Replacement

Sir William’s instructions for removing the heater core without

discharging the AC worked like a charm. Consider buying new hoses to
run to the heater core since it is sometimes easier to cut the old ones out of
the way.
Remove the actuator door motor and heater core access panel.

Using a frameless hacksaw cut the heater core tubes as close to the
firewall as possible. Believe it or not this was one of the tougher steps in
the whole process.

Pull the old core out through the access panel.

Make sure to clean heater box where the core came out good; it will be
plenty messy in there. Next cut a slit in the foam rubber gasket in the
firewall starting at the hole closest to the center of the car through to the
other one and continuing to the outer edge of the opening. I found this
easiest to do by sticking my hand inside the heater core access area but I
have small hands and others may find it easier to cut from the engine
compartment side. Now you can just push the new core in and through the
firewall. Replace the access panel and blend door actuator motor.
What comes next is VERY important unless you want to be doing this job
over again soon. Ford now recommends that a grounding strap be added to
the core to prevent the aluminum from breaking down due to electrolytic
corrosion. The TSB specifies copper but I have a problem with that since
aluminum + copper + moisture = a battery and the copper would tend to
wear away the aluminum where the two are in contact. With that in mind
it is advisable to use pre tinned copper wire or if you can’t find any tin it
yourself by coating the end that will be in contact with solder.

Clamp one end of the grounding strap to one of the heater core tubes and
then attach the other end to an existing bolt on the firewall.

Refill your cooling system and you are good to

 How To Install
an HVAC Blend
Door Actuator -
Defrost - on your
2005-2009
Mustang
INSTALLATION TIME

45 MINUTES
TOOLS REQUIRED
 8mm socket
 7mm socket
 1⁄4 inch ratchet
VIEW PDF GUIDE
Step 1: Remove the four 7mm screws at the bottom of the glove box and lower the
glove box while pinching the sides to remove it completely.
Step 2: Remove the connector the red arrow is pointing to

Step 3: Remove the two 8mm bolts from the top and bottom. This may take some
time, as there is limited room.
Step 4: Make very sure to realign the arm of the new motor and the holder carefully
and then insert the old 8mm screws from the old motor back in the same two
locations.
Step 5: Remove the plastic trim around the inner fuse box.
Step 6: Pull fuses #10 and #12 they are 5 amp fuses this will reset your HVAC
system to ensure the new motor will work.
Step 7: Turn on the car and be sure that the defroster is working properly with no
noises. If everything works correctly, assemble the glove box back into position and
screw back in the four 7mm bolts.
Ford F150 Heater Hose Diagram Beautiful
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Reference Photos:

Dismantling The Dashboard

Area On A 2006 Chevy
Equinox
Or Pontiac Torrent
In This Article:
Additional pictures in large format.
Related Articles:
 Replacing The Air Blend Door - Chevy
Equinox
 Removing The Center Console Bezel Trim
 Removing The Glove Box and Knee
Bolster

Skill Level: 3 (Intermediate) Time Taken: About 24 Hours

By Bruce W. Maki, Editor

Start:
This page is a supplement to the article on replacing the air temperature blend doo

I made this web page with large photos in case some people needed to see more detail of
Unfortunately, some of the pictures are a bit blurry, but they might still be useful.

Center Console After Bezel And Side Panels Have Been Removed:
Dash Sub-Structure:
Center area, near middle heat registers.
Center Console Area:
Body Control Module (BCM) computer is visible just below this sentence...
Lower-Center Area Of Dash
Air duct is visible behind bundles of wire.
Equinox Dashboard After Top Panel Is Removed:

Dash Sub-Structure:
Between steering wheel and middle dash registers.
Dash Sub-Structure:
Mid-section.
Center Console:
Lower section, driver's side.
Dash Sub-Structure:
Left of steering wheel.
Center Console:
Lower section, passenger side.
Underside Of Steering Column:
Looking straight up while laying on floor.
Dash Sub-Structure:
After removal.
Dash Sub-Structure:
After removal.
Dash Sub-Structure:
After removal.

Steel Cross-Bar:
Viewed from driver's door.
Steel Cross-Bar:
Viewed from driver's door.
Steel Cross-Bar:
Area below steering shaft, viewed from driver's door. Electric power steering motor is
Steel Cross-Bar:
Close-up, left of steering wheel.
Heating-Cooling Ductwork:
After steel cross-bar has been removed. Viewed from driver's side.
Heating-Cooling Ductwork:
After steel cross-bar has been removed. Viewed from passenger side.
Steel Cross-Bar:
After removal.
Steel Cross-Bar:
After removal. Close-up showing detail on back of steering column "tunnel".
Air Duct After Removal From Car:
The tube on lower-left of photo is a small duct that connects to duct in center of car, un

2004 Ford Freestar: heater

2004 Ford Freestar When the heater is on and the recirculate button is on WHERE
IS THE AIR TAKEN BACK INTO THE HEATING SYSTEM ( IN DETAIL -
PLEASE )
Share this conversation

Answered in 15 minutes by:

2/16/2012
Ford Mechanic: Chris (aka- Moose)
Hello, I'm Chris.
I will do my best to answer your question fast and accurate using the info
you have provided. Thanks for visiting Just Answer.

The recirculated air is sucked back in from behind the glove box. I do not
have any really good pictures.

This is a picture of the engine side of the firewall. #2 is the fresh air intake
which is under the passenger windshield wiper. Notice the 2 pipes #3 and
4 connect to on the firewall which are the heater core inlet/outlet, they will
be referenced in the next image. Just to the left of the heater core pipes is a
rectangle hole. You can see the grated recirculating air intake that is
available when the air inlet door closes.
No imagine your looking at the dash with your right foot up against the
passenger front tire parallel to it. Your looking at the HVAC box with the
firewall not in the picture. You can see the heater core pipes and the fresh
air intake hole and a better view of the recirculated air intake which is
above the front passenger right foot.

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How to Remove and Replace a Heater

Control Valve
The heater valve is integral to a vehicle’s cooling system.
Replacing one requires a new valve, some basic tools, and
fresh coolant.
by Richard Zeppetini on
August 25, 2016
 SAVE
SHARETWEETPIN

The purpose of a heater control valve is to control the flow of engine

coolant to the heater core, located within the passenger compartment.
When the heater or defroster is turned on, warm engine coolant passes
through the heater core. Here a fan forces air across the surface of the
heater core and then into the passenger compartment where the warm air
is felt.

During times when the air conditioner is in use, the heater control valve
closes, preventing engine coolant from entering the heater core. The result
is less heat in the passenger compartment, allowing the air conditioner to
work more efficiently.
Follow the step-by-step guide below for directions for replacing a faulty
heater control valve.

 Note: It is important to remember that this is a general guideline.

Therefore, be sure to consult your factory service manual for complete
and detailed instructions specific to your vehicle.

Part 1 of 1: Replacing the heater control valve

 Warning: Be sure the vehicle’s engine is cool to prevent burns to the
skin. It is also always a good idea to wear safety glasses to prevent any
contaminants from getting into the eye.
Materials Needed

 Distilled or demineralized water

 Drain pan
 New heater control valve
 New engine coolant
 Pliers
 Ratchet set
 Screwdrivers
 Spill-free funnel
Step 1: Disconnect the battery. Loosen the hold down nut and bolt from
the negative battery cable end and remove the connector from the battery
post. This will prevent any shorts from damaging the electrical
components.

 Tip: If the vehicle is an automatic with a shifter in the console, you

may want to place the vehicle in low gear before disconnecting the
battery to give you more space to work.
Step 2: Raise the vehicle. If you can not easily reach the lower radiator
hose, jack the vehicle up and secure it on jack stands to gain better access.
Step 3: Place the drain pan under the vehicle. In order to catch the
coolant that will be drained, you will need to put the drain pan underneath
the lower radiator hose.
Step 4: Remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the lower radiator
hose from the radiator by first loosening the clamp and then gently but
firmly twisting the hose to ensure that it is not stuck on.

 Tip: Oftentimes the hose will stick as if it is glued in place. By

twisting, you can break this bond and make it much easier to remove.
Remove the hose and drain the engine coolant into the drain pan.
Step 5: Locate your heater control valve. Some heater control valves
will be located in the engine compartment at or near the passenger side
firewall. Others are located behind the dashboard near the passenger
footwell.

Refer to the factory service manual for your vehicle to determine the exact
location. In this guide, it is assumed that the control valve is located
behind the dash.

 Note: For the steps that follow, you will need to continue referring to
the factory service manual for details about what needs to be removed
and the location and number of fasteners that need to be removed as
well.
Step 6: Remove the glove box assembly Open the glove box door and
locate the attachment screws located along the outer edge of the glove
box. Remove the screws with the appropriate screwdriver or ratchet and
socket. Gently pull on the glove box assembly to remove from dash and
disconnect any electrical connectors connected to the glove box assembly.
Step 7: Remove the dashboard. Locate the attachment screws, usually
along the top edge and bottom edges. There may be other fasteners on the
sides, depending on vehicle design. Remove the attachment screws using
an appropriate tool. Gently but firmly pull on the dashboard and slowly
remove it, making sure to disconnect any remaining electrical connectors
that may prevent you from removing the dashboard.

Be careful not to pull on any wire or control cables.

Tip: Take pictures of how the wires and cables are routed and where all
the electrical connectors go. Later you can use the photos to ensure
everything is put back together properly.
At this point you may see the heater control valve, but in some cases you
will need to remove the heater box to gain access.

Step 8: Remove the heater control valve Locate the mounting bolts or
screws that hold the heater control valve in place.

Remove the fasteners with an appropriate tool and remove the valve. Pay
attention to its orientation.

Step 9: Prepare the hoses. To help prevent leaks, thoroughly clean the
interior of any hoses that were removed as well as the component you are
reattaching it to.
Step 10: Install the new heater control valve. Install the new valve in
the same position and orientation as the old valve.

Step 11: Reassemble the dashboard and glove box. Reinstall the
dashboard, glove box, and any other components that were removed.

Refer to the photos you took earlier if necessary.

Step 12: Replace the lower radiator hose. Reattach the lower radiator
hose and tighten the hose clamp.

Step 13: Refill the cooling system. Use a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and
distilled or demineralized water to refill the cooling system.
Step 14: Bleed all the air out. To get all the air out of the cooling system,
you will need to start the vehicle, turn the heater on high, and allow the
vehicle to achieve normal operating temperature.

Keep topping off the coolant as needed until the system is totally full,
checking for leaks where hoses were removed and installed.

Step 15: Clean up afterward. Dispose of the used coolant in a manner

that corresponds to local laws and regulations.

Each vehicle model is designed differently; therefore it is important to

refer to the manufacturer’s factory service manual for your vehicle for
additional details. If you would like a professional technician, such as one
from YourMechanic, to replace your heater control valvefor you, one of
our mobile mechanics can work on your car at your home or office.

JEEP XJ/MJ HEATER CORE

REPLACEMENT
Posted in How To: Engine on October 18, 2016
SHARE THIS
Jake Headlee
If you haven’t figured it out yet, we’re about to cover the replacement of a
heater core. Our subject is a ’89 Jeep MJ Comanche, but the steps are
basically the same for an XJ Cherokee of similar vintage. This Comanche
had a rough life, and it was time to bring it back to its former glory. The
heater core was shot, but as Jeep stopped making the original part some
time ago, Crown Automotive had stepped up to the plate and made a
replacement. Crown has been building quality replacement parts for Jeep
vehicles for decades, even going so far as to use OE part numbers to make
finding and purchasing them even easier.

A minor amount of knuckle skin was shed, and a few not-safe-for-work

words were said, but we got through it. While doing so, we also attempted
some of the so-called “quick fix” ways to replace the heater core in an XJ
or MJ. Often, the quick fixes drew us in because we wanted to get back on
the trail. Unfortunately, though, some short cuts can lead to more garage
time than if it was done by the book. Here’s what we learned.

First, we attempted to take the box apart without removing the dash at all.
All of the HVAC boxes used in the XJ and MJ Jeeps are two piece, so
internal parts can be replaced, but some are a allegedly a design that
allows you to remove the bottom portion of the box without taking the
dash assembly out. We learned this was a no-go. Next, we tried doing a
partial pull of the dash, unbolting it, leaving most wires connected, and
positioning it out of the way so the heater box could be removed worked
with some finagling, but this took longer than having taken the few extra
steps to completely remove the entire dash.

As tedious as it was, pulling the dash was not that difficult. Lots of small
hardware held it in, lots of wires snake through it, but it is entirely doable.
The process took about four hours, with a short lunch break in the middle.
Follow along as we go through the installation of the new heater core.

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