2012 Survival Guide

2012 Survival Guide (Print Ready) Page 1 of 36
2012 Survival Guide

By: 2012online | Posted: Aug 07, 2008
2012 Survival Guide
by
2012online.org
This Survival Guide is intended as a basic introduction on how to prepare for and react to events that
may take place over the course of the years leading up to December 21, 2012. These skills and
techniques are provided for information purposes only and are not intended to take the place of a
professional survival or first aid training course. Rather, they are intended to increase your awareness
of the lifesaving importance of preparation of the coming events, survival skills and to encourage you
to research the events that may transpire.
For beginners interested in understanding the basics of December 21, 2012 and the Earth changing
events, there is unlimited information available from many sources, and advances of knowledge and
collaboration have led to a growing number of “watchers” and people that are preparing even though
they do not believe something is to happen. Even so, at least they will be ready, and you should as
well. Even if nothing is to happen then there will be ample number of supplies to last you for the
coming years. What if the Earth does change rapidly, and you are not prepared? If you meet the
minimal requirements to survive through Pole Shift, Volcanic Eruptions, Extreme Cold, Hurricanes,
Tornados, Earthquakes, Land Shifts, Major Floods, Solar and Gamma Radiation then you are one
more step in the right direction.
However, there is no substitute for experience in any of these extreme situations, and your reaction in
a survival situation depends on your education and training. Always keep in mind that a survival
situation mentioned above can happen to you. Be prepared and plan to be a survivor.
For too long, the term "survivalist" has called to mind paranoia, and the person that lives out in the
woods. Nevertheless, as we continue on track towards our unknown future, we will not be called
“survivalist”, but “survivors” as we will need every ounce of energy, every thought of our brain, and
every inch of muscle to continue our existence here on planet Earth. The following pages are for the
http://www.articlesbase.com/print/512668 9/28/2010
ones that may or may not believe what has been foretold, and what history has taught us throughout
the years.
Read at your own discretion
Table of Contents
Chapter pg
1. The Basics………………………………………………………………………3
Food
Water
Shelter
2. Beyond the Basics….…………………………………………………………..14
Developing a Survival Mindset
Survival Awareness
3. Disasters………………………………………………………………………..18
Floods
Earthquakes
Hurricanes
Tornados
Fire Storms
Volcanic Eruption
Asteroid impact
Radiation
Polar Reversal/Shift
Extreme Cold/Heat
Riot/Civil Disaster
Electricity Shortage
Tsunami
Alien Invasion
4. How To…………………………………………………………………………29
Fire
Shelter
First Aid
5. How can you Afford all this.............................................................................37
6. Check List……………………………………………………………………..38
Chapter 1: The Basics
If you've given any thought to survival, you know that food, water and shelter are the foundation of
any long -term survival plan. If you prepare to provide these three items for yourself and family, you
will be farther ahead than 90 percent of the public.
Many would say water is the most important of the three, but we'll address them in the order of: Food,
Water and Shelter. Below are some questions to ask yourself to better understand what specifics you
will need to prepare for in your area of the world. (or to be safe, prepare for all)
What natural disasters or extreme conditions you likely to face in the next four years?
What other disasters or emergency situations might you face?
What are the ramifications of each?
What do you have now that you can use in any disaster situation?
How much is the minimum for you and your survival situation is an answer you'll have to come up
with after reviewing this survival guide, but don’t worry we will give a generic minimal survival
pack.
Food
You may be able to survive a few weeks or even a month without food, but without food, you will
become weak, susceptible to illnesses, dizzy and unable to perform survival-related tasks. Water may
be more critical to short-term survival, but you will need every ounce of energy to get out of harms
way, this is why food is also just as important.
Will a months worth of food be enough? Or do you need a year's worth? 2012 Online cannot tell you
what's best in your situation, but we suggest that two weeks or more is the minimum for anyone in
any of these potential survival situations. Why should you stock up on so much food if the worst
you're planning to prepare for is a just a little out of the ordinary?
Several reasons:
It may take a while for store shelves to be replenished especially as we approach December 21, 2012.
Think back to a heavy storm that hit your area, was there enough supplies for everyone? Now imagine
a whole country, or even the world needing the same supplies. Now there is a problem.
You may be asked to feed friends or neighbors.
You may or may not be protected from price gouging.
You need to be prepared for a crippling blow to our food supply system.
You will need an existing food supply and a future food supply
Your existing food reserve should not include food in your refrigerator or freezer because you cannot
count on those items remaining edible for more than a day (fridge) or three (freezer), at most.
Examination of your existing foods in your cabinets will tell you how much you need to add to ensure
you have enough food for a week. A suggestion of food storage is generally canned items (including
items in jars) or dried foods. Review our list of commercial food items and their suggested storage
times when making up your personal list but keep in mind your family's eating habits, likes and
dislikes. Also, remember that you may not have access to electricity, so pick food items and
packaging that can be prepared on a single burner of a camp stove or even over an open fire.
Rotation of Foods
The main difference between the commercially prepared foods you buy in the grocery store and the
specially prepared "survival" foods is the shelf storage. You can't store grocery store items for five to
ten years, as you can with specially freeze -dried or sealed foods packed in nitrogen or vacuum sealed.
You need to rotate your items, either on an ongoing basis or every two to three months. This will
ensure you have fresh food (if you can consider canned and dry food "fresh") and do not waste your
food and money.
As a general rule, traditional canned foods should be consumed within a year. For cans with
expiration dates, such as Campbell's soups, you may find you have 18 months or two years before
they expire. Cans without a date, or with a code, mark them with the date purchased and make sure
you eat them before a year passes.
Survival Foods
Simple raw materials for baking, such as flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, oil and shortening
can be assets in a survival situation. For long-term survival storage, honey stores for years and can
replace sugar in recipes. Rather than storing flour or meal, purchase the raw grain and a hand mill.
Then you can mill your own flour whenever necessary. Red winter wheat, golden wheat, corn and
other grains can be purchased in 45 -pound lots packed in nitrogen-packed bags and shipped in large
plastic pails.
Long-term storage falls into several categories:
Vacuum -packed dried and freeze-dried foods
Nitrogen packed grains and legumes
Specially prepared and sealed foods such as MRE's (Meals, Ready-to-Eat) with a five-to-ten year
shelf life
All offer one main advantage: long storage life. Some, such as MRE's and packages sold to
backpackers, are complete meals. This is handy and convenient, but they tend to be expensive on a
per-meal basis. As the name implies, MRE's are ideal for a quick, nutritious, easy -to-prepare meal.
They are convenient to carry in the car, on a trip or on a hike. They have very long shelf lives (which
can be extended by placing a case or two in your spare refrigerator). On the downside, they are very
expensive on a per-meal basis and they do not provide as much roughage as you need. (This can lead
to digestive problems if you plan to live on them for more than a week or two). Large canned goods,
on the other hand, are difficult to transport. But if you're stocking up your survival retreat or planning
to batten down the hatches and stay at home, the large canned goods are easy to store and can keep
you well-fed for months.
Remember, however, if you have four people in your family or survival group, purchasing a one- year
supply of food will only equate to three months worth for the family. 2012 Online recommends
purchasing the largest set of these canned, dried foods your budget can handle. Then supplement the
set with items tailored to you and your family or survival group. You may also want to add a few
special items, such as hard candy or deserts, to reward yourself or for quick energy.
While on the topic of supplements, don't forget to add vitamins and mineral supplements. Fruits,
green vegetables and other items rich in vitamin C and other nutrients may be scarce, so a good multi-
vitamin is well worth the space it takes up in your stash.
Home Made Survival Foods
You can try to dry, vacuum -pack and otherwise prepare food for storage. Vacuum pumps are
available commercially or can be constructed in your own home. You can use them to seal dried food
in mason jars and other containers.
When packing foods for storage, you want to eliminate oxygen. Bugs, such as weevils, and other
organisms that can destroy your food need the oxygen to live. That's why commercial companies who
prepare survival food pack grains, cereals, pasta, beans and other foods in nitrogen -filled containers.
You can accomplish a similar packaging yourself by using dried ice.
Simply take the 10 pounds of noodles (or 25 pounds of rice or other dried food) you picked up from
the warehouse and put them in an appropriately sized plastic bucket with a lid that can create a good
seal. Then add several chunks of dried ice. As it sublimates, your bucket will fill with carbon dioxide,
which will displace all or most of the oxygen (since carbon dioxide is heavier, the oxygen should rise
to the top and out of the bucket). Place the lid on the bucket, but don't seal it all the way until you
think the dry ice has completely turned to gas. Remember, as soon as you open the bucket the air will
come back in.
Hunting and Gathering in the Wild
It's time to look to nature to help feed you. That's great if you have acres of tillable land that was not
destroyed. But if not, or if it's too late, you will need to turn to hunting, trapping and gathering.
If you can identify wild plants that can supplement your existing diet, good for you. If not, better go
out and buy a few guide books right away. Get ones with pictures, you'll need them. If you're a hunter,
could you imagine what the local patch of forest would be like if everyone's dinner depended on
hunting? How quickly would we strip this continent of all edible game? Planning on fishing? So is
everyone else.
Tip - Always drink while eating, your body looses lots of water while digesting. If you do not have
water to drink – DO NOT EAT!
Water
As mentioned previously, water is probably the most necessary element for human life, with the
exception of oxygen.
When planning your water resources for survival you need to deal with three areas:
Storing water
Finding or obtaining water
Purifying water
Storing Water
For your in- home cache or survival stash, you should count on two gallons of water per -person per -
day. While this is more water than necessary to survive it ensures water is available for hygiene and
cooking as well as drinking.
Commercial gallon bottles of filtered/purified spring water often carry expiration dates two years after
the bottling date. A good rotation program is necessary to ensure your supply of water remains fresh
and drinkable (see the previous chapter on food for information on rotation).
If you prefer to store your own water, don't use milk cartons; it's practically impossible to remove the
milk residue. If you have a spare refrigerator in the basement or the garage, use water bottles (the kind
soda or liters of water come in) to fill any available freezer space. In addition to providing you with
fresh, easily transportable drinking water, the ice can be used to cool food in the refrigerator in the
event of a power failure. For self-storage of large amounts of water, you're probably better off with
containers of at least 5 gallons. Food-grade plastic storage containers are available commercially in
sizes from five gallons to 250 or more. Containers with handles and spouts are usually five to seven
gallons, which will weigh between 40 and 56 pounds.
A 15 gallon and 30 gallon container used for food service such as delivery of syrups to soda bottlers
and other manufacturers are often available on the surplus market. After proper cleaning, these are
ideal for water storage as long as a tight seal can be maintained. 55 gallon drums and larger tanks are
also useful for long -term storage, but make sure you have a good pump. Solutions designed to be
added to water to prepare it for long-term storage are commercially available. Bleach can also be used
as a last resort to treat water from municipal sources. Added at a rate of about 1 teaspoon per 10
gallons, bleach can ensure the water will remain drinkable.
Once you're in a survival situation where there is a limited amount of water, conservation is an
important consideration. While drinking water is critical, water is also necessary for re-hydrating and
cooking dried foods. Water from boiling pasta, cooking vegetables and similar sources can and should
be retained and drunk, after it has cooled. Canned vegetables also contain liquid that can be
consumed. To preserve water, save water from washing your hands, clothes and dishes to flush toilets.
Short Term Storage
People who have electric pumps drawing water from their well have learned the lesson of filling up
all available pots and pans when a thunderstorm is brewing. What would you do if you knew your
water supply would be disrupted in an hour?
Here are a few options in addition to filling the pots and pans:
The simplest option is to put two or three heavy-duty plastic trash bags (avoid those with post-
consumer recycled content) inside each other. Then fill the inner bag with water. You can even use
the trash can to give structure to the bag. Fill your bath tub almost to the top. While you probably
won't want to drink this water, it can be used to flush toilets, wash your hands, etc. If you are at home,
a fair amount of water will be stored in your water pipes and related system. To gain access to this
water, you must first close the valve to the outside as soon as possible. This will prevent the water
from running out as pressure to the entire system drops and prevent contaminated water from entering
your house. Then open a faucet on the top floor. This will let air into the system so a vacuum doesn't
hold the water in. Next, you can open a faucet in the basement. Gravity should allow the water in your
pipes to run out the open faucet. You can repeat this procedure for both hot and cold systems. Your
hot water heater will also have plenty of water inside it. You can access this water from the valve on
the bottom. Again, you may need to open a faucet somewhere else in the house to ensure a smooth
flow of water.
Finding or Obtaining Water
There are certain climates and geographic locations where finding water will either be extremely easy
or nearly impossible. You'll have to take your location into account when you read the following.
Wherever you live, your best bet for finding a source of water is to scout out suitable locations and
stock up necessary equipment before an emergency befalls you. With proper preparedness, you
should know not only the location of the nearest streams, springs or other water source but specific
locations where it would be easy to fill a container and the safest way to get it home. Preparedness
also means having at hand an easily installable system for collecting rain water. This can range from
large tarps or sheets of plastic to a system for collecting water run off from your roof or gutters. Once
you have identified a source of water, you need to have bottles or other containers ready to transport it
or store it.
Purification
Water that is not purified may make you sick, possibly even killing you. In a survival situation, with
little or no medical attention available, you need to remain as healthy as possible. Boiling water is the
best method for purifying running water you gather from natural sources. It doesn't require any
chemicals, or expensive equipment, all you need is a large pot and a good fire or similar heat source.
Boiling for 20 or 30 minutes should kill common bacteria such as Guardia and Cryptosporidium. One
should consider that boiling water will not remove foreign contaminants such as radiation or heavy
metals.
Commercial purification/filter devices made by companies such as PUR are the best choices. They
range in size from small pump filters designed for backpackers to large filters designed for entire
camps. Probably the best filtering devices for survival retreats are the model where you pour water
into the top and allow it to slowly seep through the media into a reservoir on the bottom. No pumping
is required. On the down side, most such filtering devices are expensive and have a limited capacity.
Filters are good for anywhere from 200 liters to thousands of gallons, depending on the filter size and
mechanism. Some filters used fiberglass and activated charcoal. Others use impregnated resin or even
ceramic elements.
Chemical additives are another, often less suitable option. The water purification pills sold to hikers
and campers have a limited shelf life, especially once the bottle has been opened.
Pour-though filtering systems can be made in an emergency. Here's one example that will remove
many contaminants:
Take a five or seven gallon pail (a 55-gallon drum can also be used for a larger scale system) and drill
or punch a series of small holes on the bottom.
Place several layers of cloth on the bottom of the bucket, this can be anything from denim to an old
table cloth.
Add a thick layer of sand (preferred) or loose dirt. This will be the main filtering element, so you
should add at least half of the pail's depth.
Add another few layers of cloth, weighted down with a few larger rocks.
Your home-made filter should be several inches below the top of the bucket.
Place another bucket or other collection device under the holes you punched on the bottom.
Pour collected or gathered water into the top of your new filter system. As gravity works, the water
will filter through the media and drip out the bottom, into your collection device. If the water is
cloudy or full of sediment, simply let it drop to the bottom and draw the cleaner water off the top of
your collection device with a straw or tube.
(If you have a stash of activated charcoal, possibly acquired from an aquarium dealer, you can put a
layer inside this filter. Place a layer of cloth above and especially below the charcoal. This will
remove other contaminants and reduce any unpleasant smell or taste).
While this system may not be the best purification method, it has been successfully used in the past.
For rain water or water gathered from what appear to be relatively clean sources of running water, the
system should work fine. If you have no water source but a contaminated puddle, oily highway runoff
or similar polluted source, the filter may be better than nothing.
Shelter
Frequently, when we think of shelter, we think of either our home or emergency protection, such as a
lean -to constructed out of cut branches.
In many survival situations, shelter may be as near as your home. If you don't need to evacuate, you
may be better off at home, even if the power is off or the storm is threatening. Remember, your bug-
out bag has the bare essentials; your survival stash at home should have enough food and water for
weeks or even months.
If you are at home or in the vicinity during a natural disaster, your first course of action must be to
determine where you will be safest. If you decide not to evacuate, you must then set about making
your current residence as safe as possible. In many cases, this will mean moving into the basement or
another protected part of the house. In an apartment or condominium, your best bet will probably be
an interior room without windows, or even the basement of the apartment complex.
While many will find that there home, friend’s apartment or relative's house is the easiest and most
cost-effective safe house, the ultimate safe house or survival retreat would be a second residence
located in a very rural location. During normal times, this survival retreat can double as your vacation
home, hunting lodge or weekend getaway destination. But when the flag goes up, you can evacuate to
a safe house fully stocked with everything you need for self sufficiency.
Safe Home should be:
Well off the beaten track, ideally reachable by a single dirt road. This seclusion will offer you a good
bit of protection. For example, you can cut a large tree down across the road to help eliminate
unwanted guests.
Near a spring, well, stream or other natural source of water.
Equipped with at least a fireplace or wood stove for cooking and heat.
Within 10 to 20 miles of a village or small town where you can go (by foot, if necessary) for
additional supplies, news and other contact with the outside world, should the emergency stretch into
months or longer.
Arable enough land to grow your own vegetables and other crops.
Near a natural, easily harvestable food source (usually wildlife for hunting or fishing).
Provisioned with enough food to keep your family safe for at least three months, preferably a year.
Provisioned with tools necessary for long-term self sufficiency, should it become necessary.
Stocked with enough weapons and ammunition to defend it from small groups of marauding invaders,
should it come to that.
If you are worried about caching goods in a unattended house, where they could be stolen, you can
cache a supply nearby. While most caches are buried in hidden locations, a simple solution to this
dilemma is to rent a commercial storage unit in a town close to your retreat. This has several
advantages:
As long as you have access to the facility 24 hours a day (one of those outside storage areas where
you use your own lock is best) you can get to your supplies when necessary.
It will be much easier to make a few trips to and from the nearby storage facility and your safe house
than carry everything with you from home.
It's easier to check on the status and add materials to this type of cache than one buried in a secluded
location.
In a worst case scenario, you can hoof it to the storage area, spend the night inside and hike back the
next day with a full backpack.
Of course, for the ultimate protection, a buried or other hidden cache is hard to beat. The is especially
true for the long -term storage of ammunition and weapons that are or may one day be considered
illegal.
Chapter 2: Beyond the Basic
Based on the previous section, you should have a good idea of the potential survival situations you
might be facing. Now the question is whether to stay and face them or move to another, safer location.
At the first hint of trouble and rising prices, visit the local food warehouse and grocery stores and buy
as much as you can afford. Get the 50 pound bags of rice and the 25 pound bags of flour. Use your
credit cards and part of your emergency cash stash, if necessary.
Hunker down at home and protect what is yours.
Keep a low profile and avoid contact with others, except fellow members of your survival group.
Avoid trouble and confrontations.
Hope that within six months the country will have recovered or at least stabilized. If not, the
population will probably be a lot smaller when this is over.
We all have a strong desire to protect what's ours. Thankfully, there are times when staying at home
makes the most sense. If you can wait out the events of December 21, 2012 at your home, batten
down the hatches and stay at home, it may be your best bet. There are many advantages to staying
home in a survival situation, if you can safely do so:
The food in your refrigerator and pantry can supplement your survival stash (see the previous
chapter).
If you loose power, you can quickly cook much of your food and monitor the temperature of your
freezer (frozen food will usually keep at least 24 hours).
You'll have more time to improve your home's chances of survival (move items to high ground, put
plywood over windows, etc.)
It offers shelter against most elements*.
You'll have access to all your clothing, bedding and other comforts.
You won't suffer from boredom as much as you might in a shelter.
You can protect your stuff from looters.
Of course, there is a downside as well:
You could be putting yourself in unnecessary, life-threatening danger. (The polar shift, flood,
hurricane, riot, asteroid, volcano etc. might be worse than anticipated).
You will be without heat, electricity, hot water and other services.
You may feel cut off and alone.
*will not protect against any radiation
When disaster strikes, home isn't the only option.
In a large building, you can count on a security force that will probably be smart enough to lock the
doors and take some action to prevent access to the building by a crowd. If you think the building is
being overrun by rioters, pull the fire alarm. This will result in all the elevators being recalled to the
lobby and they won't run again until they are reset.
On your floor or in your suite, bar the door, check your personal weapon and, if there are enough
people present, assign some people to stand guard. If you are alone on the floor, or there are invaders
in the building, look for a good hiding place.
Shopping centers, fast food restaurants and other public buildings also may offer some protection
when disasters strikes, but they could be targets for looting, so you will want to avoid them. In a
severe survival situation, you need to look out for your immediate family. So if you're trying to get
out of the city in an emergency and your car breaks down, who's going to blame you for breaking into
that empty house and seeking shelter? In a life-or-death situation, property crimes will be the least of
your worries.
No matter how much you wish to stay at home, there are times when evacuation is the only choice.
These include an asteroid, tsunami, nuclear or biological event as well as any impending disaster that
is likely to destroy your home. So, if the survival situations you outlined in the previous section show
several emergency situations requiring evacuation, you'll need to put together a plan:
The Evacuation Plan
There are several important elements to your evacuation plan:
Where to go
How to get there
What to bring with you
Sure, you can head to the nearest shelter, but if sitting on cots at the local high school gymnasium or
National Guard Armory was your first choice, you probably wouldn't be reading this.
You need a safe house or survival retreat in a location where the current crisis will not threaten you.
The easiest way to set up a safe house is to coordinate with a friend or family member located
between 100 and 150 miles away, preferably in a different setting. For example:
If you're in the inner city, they should be in a rural area or at least a smaller town, preferably not the
suburbs of your city
If you're near the coast, they should be inland
If you're near a flood plain, the safe house should be on higher ground.
Following these guidelines, you can be relatively sure of several things:
Whatever disaster you are facing should not affect them, and vice versa. This allows you to trade off,
so when they are facing a survival situation, your home can be their safe house.
If you plan in advance, you can leave a few changes of old clothes, a toiletries kit, necessary
prescription drugs, ammunition, some MRE’s or anything else you might need at the safe house. This
will make your evacuation easier.
Chapter 3: Disasters
Floods
The best way to prevent damage from flooding is to move before one occurs. Seriously, don't live on a
flood plain unless you have no choice. If you learned anything in the last decade, it should be floods
can and do occur in low-lying areas previously thought safe. Rivers and streams rise to record levels,
levy's break, and there's just too much concrete for the ground to absorb all that rain.
If you're stuck in a flood, follow your instincts and move to the highest ground possible. Exercise
caution when traveling because it doesn't take much water to float a car or pick up truck.
Earthquakes
The old advice of standing in a doorway or hiding in the closet or under a table is better than running
around panic-stricken, and it may just save your life. If you live in an earthquake prone area, prepare
for it by ensuring your home meets current building standards and you have plenty of food and water
stashed away.
If you live through the few minutes of the earthquake, and your house hasn't collapsed, the greater
damage may be yet to come. Broken gas lines can cause fires and your house may be condemned,
leaving you homeless. Plan for such contingencies by having a plastic (non-sparking) wrench
available to turn off your gas main and including a good three-day pack including a tent.
Hurricanes
Hurricanes are one of the few disasters for which you can anticipate some warning. If your home is
near the shore and the rising surf is threatening, or you appear to be in the direct course of the
hurricane, you may be better off evacuating to higher ground. Whether or not you choose to evacuate,
tremendous structural damage can be caused by objects hurled through windows. Once a window is
open, the power of the hurricane can actually blow the roof off the top of the structure!
To protect yourself and your property, windows should be covered with plywood or commercial
hurricane shutters. 2012 Online recommends hurricane shutters, made from tough clear polycarbonate
and allow light to enter the window, unlike their steel and aluminum counterparts. Garage doors
should also be reinforced and the door between the garage and the house itself should be locked and
secured.
Hurricanes cause damage in multiple ways: high winds, flooding, downed trees and utility poles and
storm surges. The farther in -land your location, the less power the hurricane will have by the time it
reaches you, so pick your location carefully.
If you decided to stay in your home, you should pick an interior room with no windows. If you plan
far enough in advance, you can reinforce the room with 2x6 boards or otherwise construct a cage to
protect you from fallen trees, caved-in walls or other storm damage. Move whatever survival supplies
you will need into the room, especially a battery powered light and radio.
Tornadoes
While tornadoes cannot be predicted as early as hurricanes, current weather forecasting technology
will often tell us when atmospheric conditions are right for their formation. By sticking around the
homestead during a tornado watch, you can help protect yourself from the tremendous damage
twisters can cause.
A direct hit from a funnel cloud can turn a wooden home into a pile of chopsticks, toss a minivan
around like a tumbleweed and knock trees down faster than Paul Bunyon. So if you live in a tornado-
prone area, you might be wise to invest in an underground shelter, ala the Wizard of Oz. (You can use
it as a root cellar or nuclear survival shelter as well.)
If you live in an area not known for tornadoes, but suddenly one is baring down on you, your next-
best bet is the basement, preferably in the corner closest to the direction of the tornado.
If you are driving around and a tornado is looming, park under an underpass and run up as high as you
can under it. If caught out in the open, head for the lowest ground possible, even a drainage ditch is
better than nothing.
Fire(s)
If a fire occurs in your home you may have to get out in dark and difficult conditions. Escaping from
a fire will be a lot easier if you have already planned your escape route and know where to go. Make
sure that your planned escape route remains free of any obstructions and that there are no loose floor
coverings that could trip you. Everyone in the house should be made aware of the escape route
It only takes an unguarded or careless moment for a fire to start. A couple of minutes later and your
home or land around could be filled with smoke. Smoke and fumes can kill, particularly the highly
poisonous smoke from some furnishings. You will only have a short time to get out. Use it wisely and
try not to panic.
If you can safely do so, close the door of the room where the fire has started and close all other doors
behind you. This will help delay the spread of smoke.
Before opening a closed door, use the back of your hand to touch it. Don't open it if it feels warm, the
fire may be on the other side.
Get everyone out as quickly as possible. Don't try to pick up valuables or possessions except your
what you need for survival.
Make your way out as safely as possible and try not to panic.
It will help if you have planned your escape route rather than waiting until there is a fire.
What to do if you're cut off by fire
It is not easy, but try and remain calm. Save your energy to help you survive
If you are prevented from getting away because of flames or smoke, close the door nearest to the fire
and use towels or sheets to block any gaps. This will help stop smoke spreading into the room.
Go to the window. If the room becomes smoky, go down to floor level - it's easier to breathe because
the smoke will rise upwards.
If you are in immediate danger and your room is not too high from the ground, drop cushions or
bedding to the ground below to break your fall from the window.
Get out feet first and lower yourself to the full length of your arms before dropping.
Wilderness Fires
If you are caught in the middle of a dangerous fire storm, your best option is to seek a water source
and stay near it. Go under ground if possible, but you need to leave an escape route if the fire changes
course. With any fire situation, you always need to know escape routes and have back up plans.
Volcanic Eruption
Keep in mind the center of Earth is molten rock, and a volcanic eruption can occur almost anywhere,
but there is not much an individual can do to prepare for a volcanic eruption. Be aware of the hazards
that can come with an eruption: the flying debris, hot gases, lava flows, and potential for explosion,
mudslides, avalanches, and geothermal areas. Prepare provisions, water, food, blankets, and medical
supplies if you live around a volcano before anything happens.
Also be ready to get up and outrun flowing lava.
Use caution when around or near active volcanoes.
Do not venture toward any activity, and consult local experts on the area.
Follow all recommendations, regulations, or requests of officials.
Here are some things to watch out for:
Lava flows - Stay away from lava flows. Not all of them will be red-hot and obvious; some move very
slowly and appear as dark and solid, but are liquid beneath the surface. Also, do not try to cross an
active flow; you might get trapped by multiple lava streams.
Pyroclastic flow - Do not visit volcanoes that are having or are about to have Pyroclastic explosions.
The high temperature around such a volcano can itself be life-threatening.
Volcanic domes - Volcanic domes and plugs in craters may seem harmless, but they can explode
without warning. Footing and glassy rocks can also be very dangerous. Some cooled lava of this sort
can resemble jagged pieces of glass. Wear good, solid hiking boots on the mountain - never go
barefoot. Be sure of your step.
Lahars and floods - Be careful when crossing lahars (debris flows), for they can gush in large and
small floods.
Gases - Avoid areas where volcanic gas is released. Carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, and hydrogen
sulfide can kill quickly and silently. You may not be able to hold your breath long enough. If you see
a location around an active volcano with dead vegetation, carcasses, or bones, do not enter it.
Geothermal areas - hot springs, mud pots, and geysers are also very interesting, but don’t go across
unexplored areas that contain many of them. Stay on marked trails, because the thin silica crusts over
boiling pools can break if stepped upon. If you Fall in, it can potentially cause third -degree burns or
even death.
Before an Eruption Occurs:
Discover whether there are volcanic hazards in the area likely to affect you.
If you live in an active volcanic zone, always assume that you may have to deal with the effects of an
eruption.
If you live in an area that could experience a lava flow during a volcanic eruption, know a quick route
to safe ground.
If Vulcanologists agree that a life-threatening eruption is likely to take place, a Civil Defense
Emergency will be declared and the danger area evacuated. Listen to your radio or TV if all is
working, for information.
During an Eruption :
Save water in your bath, basin, containers or cylinders at an early stage - supplies may become
polluted.
Stay indoors as much as possible.
Wear mask and goggles if you go outside, to keep volcanic ash out of your eyes and lungs.
Take your outdoor clothing off before entering a building, volcanic ash is difficult to get rid of.
Take your Getaway Kit with you if you have to leave. Turn electricity and gas off at the mains. If you
turn gas off, have a professional check for leaks in case of damage before turning gas on again.
Keep below ridge lines in hilly terrain, the hills will offer some protection from flying volcanic debris.
A good pre-planned emergency plan should account for this possibility and provide alternative routes.
Near Earth Objects (NEO’s)
A reasonably large asteroid of 200 meters (600 feet) in diameter crashing into the Atlantic Ocean
could create a tsunami (a giant tidal wave) that would sink both Britain and the entire East Coast of
the United States within minutes. If an asteroid at least 1 kilometer in size hit Earth, it would cause a
dust cloud which would block out sunlight for at least a year and lead to a deep worldwide winter,
exhausting food supplies.
So this threat is real, but the chances of an NEO over one kilometer (3,000 feet) long hitting the Earth
soon are practically 1-100. Even so you do need to have an contingency plan in place if this was to
happen. The evidence of impact is all around us. But we will focus on the smaller car size asteroids in
this section, because if there was a massive asteroid heading our way we would be given advanced
warning (hopefully).
So what do you do
For a land impact, it can be said that an object of roughly 75 meters (225 feet) diameter can probably
destroy a city and a 160-meter (480-foot) object can destroy a large urban area. If there is an
expecting meteor shower, stay tuned to local government officials and monitor the sky.
Impacts from smaller object are almost impossible to predict the impact zone
If you live near a cave system, you may want to go and set up a temporary shelter there, or if you live
in the city, go to the lowest point of the building (in an emergency, but not recommended due to
possible building collapse). Other possibilities are:
Nuclear fallout shelters
Steel structures
Subway systems
Do not:
Stay outside during a meteor storm
Stay on the top of buildings
Go to the debris of the Meteor
Always have your survival stash available
Extreme Cold
While people do die in their homes due to bitter winter weather, these deaths are often caused by
kerosene heaters or other sources of heat. Fire is a danger with any secondary heat source, including
wood stoves, fireplaces, kerosene, propane and electric heaters, but they can be managed to reduce
fire hazards. Carbon monoxide poisoning is also a concern which must be considered when using
untraditional heat sources, such as gathering around the gas oven and opening the door.
Another danger is freezing to death if the power fails. People often think they will be OK because
they have a gas or oil furnace. This is a fallacy, because the gas furnace needs an electric fan to move
warm air throughout your house while even the oil furnace probably has an electric starter and/or fuel
pump.
A secondary source of heat is important, and wood stoves are probably the most efficient. While fire
places send much of the heat up the chimney they share with wood stoves the conveniences of being
able to find fuel all around you, from books to furniture. (Let's face it, most of have too much junk in
our houses anyway.) You can also cook over them in a pinch, and when the blizzard is howling
around your house, a cup of hot chocolate tastes twice as good and restores the spirits.
Kerosene and propane heaters can also crank out the BTUs in an emergency but probably require
ventilation (check the manufacturer's literature for specifics).
A key to keeping warm with these back- up heat sources is not to try to heat the entire shelter. Gather
everything you think you might need into a single space and close it off. Use any blankets you can
spare over openings, if necessary to reduce drafts. Gather together under your comforters and share
your body heat.
If you find yourself in open terrain, a snow cave will provide good shelter. Find a drift and burrow a
tunnel into the side for about 60 cm (24 in) then build your chamber. The entrance of the tunnel
should lead to the lowest level of you chamber where the cooking and storage of equipment will be. A
minimum of two ventilating holes are necessary, preferably one in the roof and one in the door.
Extreme Heat
Prepare ahead of time for the hottest days that may come. Freeze gallons of water in big blocks of ice
if you have a large freezer (like we discussed in the previous chapters). Refilling plastic gallon water
bottles with tap water and freezing works well. The larger the blocks of ice you have the longer they
will take to melt when you need them so go for gallon size containers if you have the freezer space.
These blocks of ice can be used to cool a fragile person by placing on a thick towel in a shallow pan
and fanning the air with a hand held fan over the ice and over the persons head and neck area. They
can also be used by wrapping them in a pillow case and placing them around the head, in the armpit
area, and in the groin area. Be extremely cautious not to allow the ice to contact the skin. Place
several layers of material between the skin and ice to prevent frostbite and check every few minutes to
make sure you are not freezing the tissue.
Symptoms of dehydration
It is very important to recognize the first dehydration symptoms and act before your state becomes
serious. Described below are the most common first symptoms of dehydration:
Fatigue
Dark urine with a very strong odor
Low urine output
Emotional instability
Delayed capillary refill in fingernail beds
Loss of skin elasticity
Trench line down center of tongue
Thirst
Avoid overheating
When you overheat, your body starts to sweat. This may be good because naturally the body is trying
to cool itself, but overtime too much sweat wastes your precious water supply. Always adjust your
clothing so that you don’t sweat too much. Open your jacket a little bit or remove an inner layer of
your clothing.
Wear loose clothes
Do not expose your body directly to the sun
Protect your head
Find time to rest under a shaded area
If you’re wearing your clothes too tight you may restrict blood circulation. It can also decrease the
volume of air between the layers, which reduces the cooling value.
Solar Radiation
On Earth, solar radiation is obvious as daylight when the sun is above the horizon. This is during
daytime, and also in summer near the poles at night, but not at all in winter near the poles. When the
direct radiation is not blocked by clouds, it is experienced as sunshine, combining the perception of
bright white light (sunlight in the strict sense) and warming. The warming on the body and surfaces of
other objects is distinguished from the increase in air temperature.
Increased solar rays could possibly happen here on Earth, and you need to do what ever necessary to
stay out of the Sun during the day. If there is a possible Red/Brown Dwarf the solar ray can be
amplified ten fold as the object gets closer to Earth.
So what do you do
Previously mentioned, make sure to stay out of direct sunlight, or if you feel immediate warming to
your skin you need to seek cover. This will not protect you fully but lessen the amount of radiation
you receive.
Seek your shelter; preferably a cave or underground structure will help with the defense
Put on your PPE if you need to venture out during the day (see the next chapter)
Polar Reversal/Shift
In the next few years, polar reversal will take place on earth. This could possibly mean that the North
Pole will be changed into the South Pole and South to North. The science can only be explained by
the fact that the earth will start rotating in the opposite direction, together with a huge disaster of
unknown proportions. Or the poles could actually shift positions by a few miles which would still
cause unwanted disasters.
See previous disasters which would be caused by this shift (minus the asteroids)
Riot/Civil Disaster
After a disaster, you may have to protect your home and belongings from looters. Sure, they'll
probably march out the National Guard, but like the police, they can't be everywhere all the time. Just
as you are assuming responsibility for your survival by reading this guide, you'll need to assume
responsibility for protecting yourself from human predators.
Tsunami
A tsunami is a series of destructive and very dangerous waves that result from earthquake activity or
some other type of underwater disturbance (meteorite, landslide, underwater volcanic activity etc.). In
order to survive a tsunami, you must be prepared, vigilant, and calm.
Your at risk if:
Your home, school, or workplace is in a coastal region, near the sea
The elevation of your home, school or workplace is at sea level or fairly low and on flat
or only slightly elevated land. If you don't know the elevation level of your home, school or
workplace, find out
There are warning signs indicating that your area is prone to tsunamis
Your home, school, workplace etc. buildings are not tsunami resistant
Prepare in advance. If your research demonstrates that you are at risk, prepare both an evacuation plan
and your survival stash.
Natural warnings can help to indicate the imminent arrival of a tsunami. Be aware that in many cases,
these may be the only warnings you will get in the coming years. Be self -responsible and keep you
and your family, friends and colleagues safe. Natural signs that herald the possibility of a coming
tsunami include:
An earthquake: If you live in a coastal zone (by the sea), the occurrence of an earthquake should be
immediate cause for alarm and evasive action.
Rumbling under the ground: Even if there is no actual "earthquake" but you can perceive sizable
rumbling under the ground, heed this warning.
A rapid rise and fall in coastal waters. If the sea suddenly recedes, leaving bare sand, this is a major
warning sign that there is about to be a sudden surge of water inland.
Watch for animals leaving the area or behaving abnormally, such as trying to seek human shelter or
grouping together in ways they would not normally do.
Take action
If a tsunami is likely to make landfall on your coastal region, react immediately. Put into place the
Evacuation Plan.
Move immediate movement away from the coast, lagoons or other bodies of water next to the coast is
essential.
Head inland: This means going up to higher ground and even into hills or mountains.
Climb high: If you cannot head inland because you are trapped, head up. Although not ideal, if this is
your only option, choose a high, sturdy and solid building and climb up it. Go as high as you possibly
can, even onto the roof or sturdy trees.
React quickly if you are stranded in the water. If you did not manage to evacuate but find yourself
caught up in the tsunami, there are things that you can do to try and survive:
Grab onto something that floats
Abandon belongings
Keep away for at least half a day, if not longer. A tsunami comes in waves
Try to get reliable information
A good pre-planned emergency plan should account for this possibility and provide alternative routes.
Go into survival mode and be prepared for anything else that could happen, do not let your guard
down.
Electricity Shortage
We have lived without it in the past, and we can live without it now.
That is simple to say when we rely so heavily on the use of electricity. It just make our lives that
much easier, so in the event of a disaster and after you have made it to a safe haven, it is time now to
review the basics.
Generators are a good way to provide energy, but awfully hard to lug around and are dependant upon
a natural resource that may or may not be readily available. So you should plan for the worst, break
out the matches.
Alien Invasion
At the time this survival guide was written, there is no information on how to maintain your existence
if alien invaders showed up to visit. With that said, 2012 Online recommends hiding.
Chapter 4: How To
Fires
The ability to construct and know how to make a fire can make the difference between life and death
in a survival situation. Fire making is one of the most vital survival skills. You should practice and
learn different methods so you know how to start a fire anywhere, and under any condition.
Several needs:
A fire can fulfill several needs. It can keep you warm and dry. You can use it to cook food, purify
water and to sterilize bandages. It can scare away dangerous animals and its smoke can keeps flying
insects at bay.
To make a fire you have to understand that there are three components needed: air, heat and fuel. The
correct ratio of these components is very important for a fire to burn at its greatest capability
Preparation
You will have to decide what site and arrangement to use. Before building a fire consider:
The area (terrain and climate) in which you are operating
The materials and tools available
Time: how much time you have
Need: why you need a fire
Security: do you want unwanted attention
Look for a dry spot that:
Is protected from the wind
Is suitably placed in relation to your shelter (if any)
Will concentrate the heat in the direction you desire
Has a supply of wood or other fuel available
If you are in a wooded or brush-covered area, clear the brush and scrape the surface soil from the spot
you have selected. Clear a circle at least 1 meter in diameter so there is little chance of the fire
spreading. If time allows, construct a fire wall using logs or rocks. This wall will help to reflector
direct the heat where you want it. It will also reduce flying sparks and cut down on the amount of
wind blowing into the fire. However, you will need enough wind to keep the fire burning. In some
situations, you may find that an underground fireplace will best meet your needs. It conceals the fire
and serves well for cooking food. To make an underground fireplace:
Dig a hole in the ground.
On the upwind side of this hole, poke or dig a large connecting hole for ventilation.
Build your fire in the hole
Battery
Use a battery to generate a spark. Use of this method depends on the type of battery available. Attach
a wire to each terminal. Touch the ends of the bare wires together next to the tinder so the sparks will
ignite it.
Flint and Steel
The direct spark method is the easiest of the primitive methods to use. The flint and steel method is
the most reliable of the direct spark methods. Strike a flint or other hard, sharp- edged rock edge with a
piece of carbon steel (stainless steel will not produce a good spark). This method requires a loose-
jointed wrist and practice. When a spark has caught in the tinder, blow on it. The spark will spread
and burst into flames.
Fire-Plow
The fire-plow is a friction method of ignition. You rub a hardwood shaft against a softer wood base.
To use this method, cut a straight groove in the base and plow the blunt tip of the shaft up and down
the groove. The plowing action of the shaft pushes out small particles of wood fibers. Then, as you
apply more pressure on each stroke, the friction ignites the wood particles.
Shelters
If you find yourself not around any structures or your survival shelter, or if it’s not safe, a temporary
shelter may be raised up in the wilderness. A small shelter which is insulated from the bottom,
protected from the elements and contains a fire is extremely important in your survival situation.
Before building your shelter be sure that the surrounding area provides the materials needed to build a
good fire, and a good water source.
Wilderness shelters may include:
1. Natural shelters such as caves and overhanging cliffs. When exploring a possible shelter tie a piece
of string to the outer mouth of the cave to ensure you will be able to find your way out. Keep in mind
that these caves may already be occupied. If you do use a cave for shelter, build your fire near its
mouth to prevent animals from entering.
2. Enlarge the natural pit under a fallen tree and line it with bark or tree boughs
3. Near a rocky coastal area, build a rock shelter in the shape of a U, covering the roof with driftwood
and a tarp or even seaweed for protection
First Aid
If an accident occurs in the wilderness it will be your responsibility to deal with the situation. The
specific sequence of actions when dealing with this situation is:
Remain calm, providing your patient with quiet, efficient first aid treatment
Keep the person warm and lying down. Do not move this injured person until you have discovered the
extent of the injuries
Start mouth-to-mouth resuscitation immediately if the injured person is not breathing
Stop any bleeding
Watch carefully for signs of shock
Check for cuts, fractures, breaks and injuries to the head, neck or spine
Do not allow people to crowd the injured person
Do not remove clothing unless it is imperative
Decide if the person can be moved to a proper medical facility. If this is not possible, prepare a
suitable living area in which shelter, heat and food are provided
Shock
Shock is a depression of all of the body processes and may follow any injury regardless of how minor.
Factors such as hemorrhage, cold and pain will intensify shock. When experiencing shock the patient
will feel weak and may faint. The skin becomes cold and clammy and the pulse, weak and rapid.
Shock can be more serious than the injury itself.
Use the following method to prevent and control shock:
1. If there are no head or chest injuries, place the patient on his/her back with the head and chest lower
than the legs. This will help the blood circulate to the brain, heart, lungs and other major organs.
2. If severe head and chest injuries are present elevate the upper body. If chest injuries are present,
elevate the injured side to assist in the functioning of the uninjured lung.
3. If the injured person becomes unconscious, place him/her in a face down position to prevent
choking on blood, vomit or the tongue.
4. Keep your patient warm and under shelter.
Stopped Breathing
If breathing has stopped, begin mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. Place the patient on his/her back and
follow these steps:
1. To open the airway lift the person's neck and tilt the head back
2. Keep the neck elevated; pinch the nostrils to prevent air leakage
3. Place your mouth completely around the person
About the Author
I have been a firm believer on and off for the past 10 years, and until recently I have not had much
thought as to what if... So my turning point was the realization that the Earth goes through cycles (that
is what humans can relate to) and this is prevalent throughout our history. Is it possible that the
ancient civilizations are all wrong about a cyclic turn of events for our world in the coming years?
Yes. With that comes the other side, why would so many people devote their lives to understanding
the complex universe that is still indubitably undiscovered today.
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2012 Survival Guide (Print Ready) Page 1 of 36

2012 Survival Guide

2012 Survival Guide

Read at your own discretion

2. Beyond the Basics….…………………………………………………………..14

Developing a Survival Mindset

5. How can you Afford all this.............................................................................37

Chapter 1: The Basics

What other disasters or emergency situations might you face?

What are the ramifications of each?

You may be asked to feed friends or neighbors.

You may or may not be protected from price gouging.

Long-term storage falls into several categories:

Vacuum -packed dried and freeze-dried foods

Nitrogen packed grains and legumes

Home Made Survival Foods

Hunting and Gathering in the Wild

Finding or obtaining water

Short Term Storage

Finding or Obtaining Water

Safe Home should be:

Near a spring, well, stream or other natural source of water.

Chapter 2: Beyond the Basic

Hunker down at home and protect what is yours.

It offers shelter against most elements*.

You won't suffer from boredom as much as you might in a shelter.

You can protect your stuff from looters.

Of course, there is a downside as well:

You may feel cut off and alone.

*will not protect against any radiation

When disaster strikes, home isn't the only option.

The Evacuation Plan

There are several important elements to your evacuation plan:

How to get there

What to bring with you

If you're near the coast, they should be inland

Following these guidelines, you can be relatively sure of several things:

What to do if you're cut off by fire

Also be ready to get up and outrun flowing lava.

Use caution when around or near active volcanoes.

Follow all recommendations, regulations, or requests of officials.

Here are some things to watch out for:

Before an Eruption Occurs:

Stay indoors as much as possible.

Near Earth Objects (NEO’s)

Nuclear fallout shelters

Stay outside during a meteor storm

Stay on the top of buildings

Go to the debris of the Meteor

Always have your survival stash available

Dark urine with a very strong odor

Low urine output

Delayed capillary refill in fingernail beds

Loss of skin elasticity

Trench line down center of tongue

Wear loose clothes

Do not expose your body directly to the sun

Protect your head

Find time to rest under a shaded area

Your at risk if:

Your home, school, or workplace is in a coastal region, near the sea

Grab onto something that floats

Try to get reliable information