Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Vilnius
Summer 2018
What to Eat
Reviews, from big
burgers to fine dining
Where to Drink
Fun-loving nightlife,
from bars to hookahs
inyourpocket.com
N°125 - €4.99
Contents
Jewish Vilnius 66
Trakai 69
Lithuania’s former capital uncovered
Shopping 72
Foreword 4
Leisure 80
Vilnius in 48 Hours 5
Health & Useful Addresses 84
Arriving & Getting Around 6 From doctors and dentists to foreign embassies
Vilnius Basics 11 Hotels 88
History 14 List of small features
What’s On 16 Parking in Vilnius 9
Art, events and the rest Learn Lithuanian! 13
Tips for tipping 38
Liepāja, Latvia 24 Lithuania’s coffee revolution 43
The name game 52
Restaurants 26
Statues that speak 62
The capital’s kitchens in all their glory
What to buy in Vilnius 76
Cafés 40 Explore Lithuania 81
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After all this sightseeing it’s time for dinner, wine and lo-
cal beer. The Old Town has dozens of stylish upmarket
restaurants in the vicinity like the fish-centric Žuvinė
at the back of the Town Hall, but if you’re looking for
something more affordable try the German food and
drink at Bunte Gans on Aušros Vartų Street. Cosy bars
line the way too, like Dirty Duck, or the wine bar No-
tre Vie. Hipstery alternative bars lie close to the Gates
of Dawn too, like Bukowski, Kablys and Peronas.
1990 1998
January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachev’s visit to Vilnius is far January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president. Adamkus,
from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence demonstra- who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official at the US
tors turn out to ‘welcome’ him. March 4 Pro-independence Environmental Protection Agency before returning to Lith-
Sąjūdis candidates win a majority in the first free elections in uania to run for president. December 21 Seimas abolishes
Lithuania since 1940. March 11 The Supreme Council (later the death penalty in response to international pressure
Parliament, or Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian from the EU.
independence and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forc-
es. Vytautas Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. 1999
April 17 Moscow imposes an economic blockade. December 13 Accession talks begin between Lithuania
and the EU with a projected date of 2004. A major stum-
1991 bling block is the decommissioning of the Ignalina Nuclear
January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm the Power Plant.
parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the
delegates are safe inside. However, in a violent bid to reclaim
the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people are 21ST CENTURY
killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to 2004 January-April Impeachment hearings take place as
recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border the new right-wing president Rolandas Paksas is found
guards and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border guilty of violating the constitution in his alleged dealings
checkpoint by Soviet special forces. August 21 The Moscow with unsavoury Russian business partners. April 2 Lithu-
putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings they’ve ania becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato, and then of
occupied since January. Lenin’s statue is removed from Vil- the EU on May 1. December 31 The Ignalina Nuclear Power
nius’ Lukiškių Square. A photograph of the event appears on Plant says farewell to the first of its two Chernobyl-style
the cover of Issue N°1 of Vilnius In Your Pocket, published on RBMK reactors. It finally closes at the end of 2009.
May 1, 1992. August 29 Sweden becomes the first Western
country to open an embassy in Vilnius.September 2 The USA 2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name
recognises Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. September 17 All was first mentioned in written texts. Dalia Grybauskaitė
three Baltic countries are re-admitted into the UN. is inaugurated as the country’s first female president on
July 12.
1992
February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own flag at 2013 Lithuania takes over the Presidency of the Council
the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928. of the European Union for a six month period from July 1.
Not surprisingly for a capital city there’s a lot of culture to MENO NIŠA
be had in Vilnius including some cracking classical music, Art to hang on your body as opposed to your wall, this
a bit of worthy contemporary art and the occasional combined gallery and workshop presents some of the best
faded Western rock star. Going to concerts and festivals in examples of the work of Lithuanian goldsmiths.QH‑10,
and around the city is a relatively inexpensive affair, with J. Basanavičiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 52 31 38 11, www.
concert tickets often costing less than €15. Standards tend menonisa.lt/en/. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
to be high and the variety of events taking place is getting Closed Mon, Sun. J
bigger every year. For information on purchasing tickets,
ask your hotel reception or speak to the nice people at OLD CRAFTS WORKSHOP OF THE FINE CRAFTS
Vilnius Tourist Information. Read about more events and ASSOCIATION OF VILNIUS (VILNIAUS DAILIŲJŲ
buy tickets online at www.bilietai.lt or www.tiketa.lt. AMATŲ ASOCIACIJOS SENŲJŲ AMATŲ
DIRBTUVĖS)
An extraordinary organisation dedicated to both
ARTS & CRAFTS preserving and promoting a wide range of traditional
AMATŲ GILDIJA fine crafts including practictioners such as jewellers,
The ceramics artist Mindaugas Rutkauskas is almost ceramicists, book-binders and leather workers.
completely blind yet manages to produce wonderful work Operating out of studios and workshops spread
from classic earthenware crockery to complete ceramic around the city centre, the nice people who run the
stoves. He shares this workshop with several other artists. organisation arrange a fascinating array of things for
Feel free to have a poke around. Most of the stuff on display visitors to see and do including lectures, tours, hands-on
is for sale.QI‑10, Pranciškonų 6, tel. (+370) 64 53 80 44/ workshops and even a few events for children. Visiting
(+370) 52 12 05 20, www.amatugildija.lt. Open 11:00 - is a good opportunity to buy some unique and special
19:00. Closed Mon, Sun, Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34. J gifts and souvenirs. Their website has good information
in English.QJ‑10, Savičiaus 10, tel. (+370) 52 12 51
JONAS BUGAILIŠKIS ART STUDIO 69, www.seniejiamatai.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
A local mini-celebrity knocking out all manner of fabulous Mon. AJ
wooden eccentricities based on a combination of traditional
Lithuanian folk art and the contents of a very unique mind.
The studio is now also home to Bugailiškis’ daughter, the Get the In Your Pocket
painter Aistė Bugailiškytė-Kapočienė.QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų
17-10, tel. (+370) 65 23 66 13/+37052617666, www. City Essentials app
bugailiskis.com. By appointment only. J
16 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
What’s On
ST. CATHERINE’S CHURCH (ŠV. KOTRYNOS
CINEMAS BAŽNYČIA)
Films are usually shown in their original language with Originally belonging to a Benedictine convent when
Lithuanian subtitles. Animated films are usually dubbed. founded in 1618, after several fires St Catherine’s was rebuilt
in the 1740s by famed architect Jan Krzyzstof Glaubitz. The
FORUM CINEMAS VINGIS new design daringly created a nave that was as high as it
Mostly popular Hollywood films inside a dedicated was long, with a Baroque exterior that is elaborate on all
multiplex close to the city centre. There’s also a small new sides, not only in its twin-towered façade. There’s a rich
hall screening arthouse and foreign-language films.QE‑10, interior too, with excellent acoustics, making it a fabulous
Savanorių 7, tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. Box office venue for regular music concerts. The square behind the
open 10:30 - 22:00. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). AJ church contains a bust of Stanisław Moniuszko, a 19th-
century Polish composer who lived in Vilnius and whose
MULTIKINO operas and songs are filled with fond references to the lost
Hollywood blockbusters inside a large shopping centre. Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.QI‑9, Vilniaus 30, tel.
QH‑1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 62 05 15 58/(+370) (+370) 52 62 04 21, www.kultura.lt. J
52 19 53 76, www.multikino.lt. Box office open 10:00
- 22:00. A VAIDILOS KLASIKA
Vaidilos Klasika is an innovative musical programme
SKALVIJA spanning the entire concert season and aimed at the
The best place in the city for arthouse and underground highest artistic standards, bringing together leading
cinema, and meeting people who like it in the attached café- classical performers and young talent from Lithuania and
bar. It has been going for aeons and is well known among beyond. Top-class classical music performances take place
film lovers for its distinctive repertoire. Zooming in on non- inside the Vaidilos Theatre, a 19th-century neo-Gothic
commercial European and world cinema, it’s also a venue building that hosted its first play in Lithuanian in 1905.
for festivals, retrospectives and special screenings. One of its Badly damaged in World War II and rebuilt afterwards, the
many events is the Vilnius Documentary Film Festival at the venue began a new life in 2016, offering exclusive acoustics
end of September, the main documentary film platform in the ideal for solo and chamber performances in a classy,
Baltics that always screens rich and captivating films.QH‑7, A. chandeliered environment. Together with modern stage
Goštauto 2, tel. (+370) 52 61 05 05, www.skalvija.lt. Box equipment, it also boasts a Yamaha S6, a hand-crafted
office open an hour before the event. JW premium-class grand piano.QA. Jakšto 9, tel. (+370) 67
25 50 95, www.vaidilosklasika.lt/.
CONCERT HALLS VILNIUS CONGRESS HALL (VILNIAUS KONGRESŲ
COMPENSA RŪMAI)
Located on a small street some way north of the city Home to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra,
centre, this new concert hall hosts music concerts, theatre, this city-centre venue features some fine acoustics and
cultural events, conferences, parties and buffet receptions. organises everything from serious classical concerts to
QKernavės 84, tel. (8-618) 85180/1588, www. shows for children.QI‑7, Vilniaus 6-1, tel. (+370) 52 61 88
compensakoncertusale.lt. A 28, www.lvso.lt. Box office open 11:00 - 15:00, 15:45 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:45. Closed Sun. AJ
LITHUANIAN NATIONAL PHILHARMONIC
CONCERT HALL (LIETUVOS NACIONALINĖ VILNIUS UNIVERSITY BOTANICAL GARDEN
FILHARMONIJA) A gorgeous variety of plants, trees and flowers some
Featuring a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the way north of the city centre. In summer, a series of truly
Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra was established memorable evening pop concerts takes place here.
in 1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles QKairėnų 43, tel. (+370) 52 19 31 33, www.botanikos-
including the aforementioned orchestra as well as the sodas.vu.lt/en. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sat,
Čiurlionis String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Sun 12:00 - 16:00.
Musica Humana to name but a few.QJ‑10, Aušros Vartų
5, tel. (+370) 52 66 52 33/(+370) 52 66 52 16, www.
nationalphilharmonic.eu. Box office open 10:00 - 13:30,
14:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. AJ
SIEMENS ARENA
The quintessential all-purpose arena staging everything
from international basketball matches to big name rock
concerts.QH‑1, Ozo 14, tel. (+370) 52 47 75 76, www.
siemensarena.lt. Box office open 10:00 - 18:00. Fri, Sat,
Sun open two hours before the event. A Three Muses sculpture outside the National Drama Theatre
TITANIKAS
A series of exhibition halls owned and curated by the
neighbouring Vilnius Art Academy, exhibitions run the
gamut from student shows to serious work from home
and abroad in just about every conceivable medium.
QJ‑8, Maironio 3, tel. (+370) 52 10 01 36, www.vda.lt/
titanikas. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. J Concert at Loftas
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
17.07 20:30 » MARI SAMUELSEN AND NIKO
The exceptional young Norwegian violinist Mari Samuelsen
and the New Ideas Chamber Orchestra (NIKO) take on
pieces by composers such as Philip Glass, Arvo Pärt, Peteris
Vasks and Peter Gregson.QJ‑8, Palace of the Grand Dukes
of Lithuania, Katedros 4, tel. (+370) 52 62 00 07, www.
midsummervilnius.com/en/speaker/mari-samuelsen-ir-
The main stage at Galapagai © Arnas Mažylis niko/. €20 - 40.
22 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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Liepāja, Latvia
Straddling a narrow strip of land between the sea and a
lake Latvia’s third largest city began as a humble fishing SIGHTSEEING
village, eventually becoming a major trading port under KAROSTA PRISON (KAROSTAS CIETUMS)
the leadership of Jacob (or James) Kettler (1610 - 1681). The Built in 1900, it was used as a military prison by a long
burgeoning city suffered heavily during the Great Northern succession of regimes including the Soviets and Nazis who
War when the population was decimated by an outbreak executed ‘criminals’ outside in the yard. Guides are happy
of the plague in 1710. It only regained its importance as to tell you how a ghost haunts the prison and how doors
a port in the 19th century as a part of the Russian empire. often swing open by themselves. The hauntings were even
Today, Liepāja is known as a progressive city with beautiful investigated in an episode of Ghost Hunters International.
architecture, a beautiful beach and excellent nightlife. Visitors can take a simple tour with a guide or audio guide,
participate in a reality show (in English or German), spend
the night in a cell or do the ultimate and become a prisoner
GETTING THERE & ARRIVING for the night (see website for details). For participatory
Liepāja is located on Latvia’s Baltic Sea coast roughly 100km events you must call ahead and reserve a time.QInvalīdu
north of Klaipėda and nearly 400km northwest of Vilnius. If 4, tel. (+371) 26 36 94 70, www.karostascietums.lv. Open
you’re travelling by car from Vilnius take the A1 all the way 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: €3 - 4.50.
to Klaipėda and then head north along the coast on the
A13 until you cross the border when the road turns into NORTHERN FORTS (ZIEMEĻU FORTI)
the A11, which leads directly to Liepāja. You can also take A long system of concrete fortifications was once part of the
a bus to Klaipėda or Palanga and then switch buses to get Naval Port’s defences, but was intentionally destroyed after
to Liepāja. Although the city is easily walkable, you can a friendship and cooperation agreement was signed with
explore outlying areas by tram. Buy a €0.80 ticket from the Germany in 1908. It’s not known if the tsar later pondered
driver or at newsstands for €0.70 (time stamp the ticket). the irony of blowing up such massive defences on the eve
of WWI, but of course it’s always easy to make jokes with
hindsight. Today, you can cautiously walk through the ruins
ACCOMMODATION and watch buildings, pillboxes and concrete staircases
PROMENADE HOTEL slowly recede into the sea, but beware as a large section
This converted 19th-century warehouse on the harbour collapsed in a landslide in January of 2018.QNorth of the
canal is without a doubt one of the city’s best hotels. All rooms breakwater, west of Atmodas bulvāris.
include cable TV, internet access, phone, private bathrooms,
unique designer interior decoration and some also offer PETER’S MARKET (PĒTERTIRGUS)
spacious balconies with fantastic views of the Liepāja marina Since the second half of the 17th century Kuršu laukums
below. Conference facilities, a restaurant, an art gallery and served as the city’s main market, but in 1910 the Pētertirgus
even yacht berths are also available.QVecā Ostmala 40, tel. pavilion was built next door and has remained Liepāja’s
(+371) 63 48 82 88, www.promenadehotel.lv. 50 rooms. central trading venue to this day. Inside you’ll find stunning
PHA6UFLKDXW architecture and a hygienic market that has lost some of its
character due to the pressures of the modern era. Outside
you’ll find vegetable stalls as well as vendors selling local
RESTAURANTS crafts and souvenirs.QKuršu 5/7/9, tel. (+371) 63 42 35 17,
PASTNIEKA MĀJA www.petertirgus.lv. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
The Postman’s House is located in an ancient renovated
building in the centre of the city. Unfortunately, the interior
is actually quite modern but we’ll forgive them because the ACTIVITIES & LEISURE
courtyard is so charming. Dine on excellent international GANDRS
fair on the ground floor, upstairs or on the extensive This chain of sports shops also rents a wide selection of
summer terrace. Try the traditional Liepājas menciņi bicycles.QBāriņu 14, tel. (+371) 28 00 33 64, www.gandrs.
(smoked cod fish stew).QFr. Brīvzemnieka 53, tel. (+371) lv. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
29 11 31 86, www.pastniekamaja.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. LIEPĀJA OLYMPIC CENTRE POOL & SPA
(€5 - 10). TABW This incredible spa and pool complex includes a number
of attractions including a large and small swimming pool,
hot tubs, Turkish steam room, aromatic sauna, salt sauna,
ice water pool, children’s playground and massage pools as
well as a refreshment bar.QBrīvības 39, tel. (+371) 63 48
38 88, www.loc.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission: €12.50/adult. A
TARZĀNS PARK
Climb between trees, rappel from platforms and burn some
adrenalin on a zip line over the lake.QLībiešu 8, tel. (+371)
Beach life in Liepāja Mārtiņš Zaprauskis 27 08 89 33, www.tarzans.lv/liepaja. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
24 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
DUBLIS
CHINESE Dining as experience. Opt for the ‘restaurant’ and you’ll
Vilnius offers a superb range of Chinese options, from low get a set menu of five imaginative courses, little surprises
budget canteen affairs to the full-blown posh experience. between courses and carefully matched wines that will
keep you enraptured for three hours or so. Pricey by local
ZHANGAS standards, with the wine typically costing more than the
Inexpensive, delicious and much loved by local office food, it’s still great value for the quality ingredients and
workers and residents, Zhangas has quietly and steadily artistic combinations. Choose the ‘brasserie’ and you’ll get
assumed a reputation as one of the best Chinese eateries more of a choice, for lunch, dinner or for coffee and cake.
in the city. Found a few paces north of the Green Bridge, Service is top notch, the ambiance non-elitist. Though
it’s not classy dining by any stretch of the imagination, but similar competitors have sprung up to keep it on its toes,
it’s homely, unceremonious and Chinese-owned and run, Dublis is still one of the best.QTrakų 14, tel. (+370) 67 44
making it reasonably authentic.QKalvarijų 7, tel. (+370) 19 22, www.dublis.eu/. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -
52 75 60 97. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €. 23:00, Closed Sun. €19. APTUBEJ6W
DŽIAUGSMAS
FAST FOOD It could be that the minimalist décor at this pricey, tricky-
MEATBALLS to-find hideaway (via a shady doorway a few steps down
Celebrating the humble meatball, with horror-movie Liejyklos) is kept so deliberately dark that the colours
mincers on display on the walls, this highly casual eatery in the gastronomic experiences when they arrive
is testament to the eternal popularity of Eastern European take your breath away. In any case, ecological, mostly
countryside cooking. The meatballs are essentially identical, local ingredients are conjured in the kitchen into vivid
mostly with beef and with tomato sauce and mash or colours, though in some cases the dishes are as minimal
ciabatta, but on Thursdays curious meatball experiments as the furnishings. There isn’t a great deal to look at
take place with herbs and spices added.QEtmonų 3, tel. besides the experimental jars of chamomile vinegar and
(+370) 60 26 21 78. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - blackcurrant leaves, so bring chatty company. Reserve
03:00, Closed Mon, Sun. €2-5. AJW ahead, or sit on a stool by the window and wait for a
table.QVilniaus 28, tel. (+370) 63 11 11 53, www.
dziaugsmas.com. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun.
FINE DINING APJWK
AMANDUS
Amandus is the new hidden jewel of the Vilnius dining ERTLIO NAMAS
scene, but not for long. Young, talented chef Deivydas Raising the bar once again for the city’s dining scene,
Praspaliauskas earned a well-deserved reputation at Dublis, culinary-wise this elegant little space is a step back in
but this is his first solo venture and the food is fabulous. time as dishes are based on Lithuanian recipes from
His kitchen is his laboratory. Lingonberries are buried under centuries past. But we’re not talking pancakes here. We
ibérico cheek with a rich sauce and caramelised onions, mean crawfish soup, breast of goose, lamb loin and quince
duck breast comes with a pear and pepper sauce, parsnips cooked in honey, each noting the century the recipe is
with beetroot and goat cheese, fried pumpkin with apples, taken from, while the exceedingly helpful staff recommend
courgette with salty Pecorino cheese, etc. And the desserts a suitable wine. As much fun for small groups as it is for
are just indescribable. Found next to the Artagonist Hotel couples, Ertlio is a Vilnius highlight. Reserve ahead.QJ‑9,
on Pilies, there’s seating at street level but also a whole Šv. Jono 7, tel. (+370) 63 73 33 00, www.ertlionamas.lt.
cavernous world downstairs for events and banquets. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Fri 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
QPilies 34, tel. (8-675) 41191, www.amandus.lt. Open Sun 13:00 - 22:00, Bar Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
12:00 - 23:00. €€€. AJWKi 23:00. €9. ATW
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket Summer 2018 31
Restaurants
RENAISSANCE
Those who can afford the regularly changing degustation FISH
menus or an à la carte selection that ranges from tartare ŽUVINĖ (THE FISH RESTAURANT)
of scallops to umami oysters to the delightful cod in There are not enough fish restaurants in the Baltics, but
morel mushroom sauce, over to the venison, steak and Vilnius is blessed because it boasts the best. With an
chargrilled octopus, will be rewarded with superb food. unbeatable location inside the Old Town’s historic Town
Match it with a glass of crisp Chablis. A quiet location Hall, a classy, sophisticated ambiance makes Žuvinė perfect
means this elegant restaurant is rarely crowded, so the for a romantic date. But it’s not pretentious in any way, with
Tuscan chef will be able to put all his effort into your attentive and knowledgeable staff, and is great for small
unforgettable meal.QSubačiaus 3, tel. (+370) 61 88 15 groups of fish-fervent friends and family. Besides the tasty
13. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon, seafood, a raw-fish bar and a fabulously rich Bouillabaisse,
Sun. AP6WY there’s often also beef tartare and pepper-brandy steak for
those who just can’t let go of the meat, plus an excellent
ŠVENTARAGIO SODAS wine list.QI‑10, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 68 21 91 72, www.
With a sweeping view of the cathedral, Cathedral Square zuvine.lt. Open 11:00 - 00:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, Open
and bell tower through huge windows on two sides of this 10:00 - 24:00. From October 1 Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
sophisticated restaurant, and a luscious vertical garden on 11:00 - 22:00. €18. APTBSJW
another, there’s visual background aplenty for a romantic
dinner or business lunch in one of the city’s prime
locations. In summer especially, on the tables outside, FRENCH
there are few places better to sit than this. Šventaragis is LE BONJOUR
a Lithuanian mythological leader akin to England’s King Feast on delicious French onion soup, steak, camembert
Arthur, and here at his sodas (garden) the petite selection with penny bun mushrooms and – the pièce de résistance
of classic dishes is excellent, though you may have to wait – the crème brûlée. Prices are incredibly low for the quality,
a bit for them to arrive, and the superior snacks and salads while the Provençal décor is elegant but not over-the-top.
are fab with a round of delicious duck-fat new potatoes. Another nice touch is that the menu titles remain stubbornly
QL. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus g. 1, tel. (+370) 52 08 08 05. in French.QGedimino 46, tel. (+370) 68 8014 83, www.
Open 08:00 - 11:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. €€€. lebonjour.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat
ATBJKi 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 00:00 - 20:00. APUJWK
GASTROBARS
B15
The waitress told us that B15 is aiming for French
atmosphere, design and food. Maybe it’s a work in progress
but with pizza, fish and chips and organic Sicilian sauvignon
among the highlights, it feels no more French than the
Russian Drama Theatre next door. It was a sunny day so
we sat out front and shared a caper-spotted tomato pizza
and a bottle of red, and pretty soon it was the buzz of this
Vilnius street corner that helped to make the experience
memorable.QBasanavičiaus 15, tel. (+370) 61 62 11 15,
www.b15.lt/. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 00:00,
Sun 11:00 - 20:00. €€€. ATBS
GERMAN
BUNTE GANS
Bunte Gans churns out excellent German cuisine and
other dishes in this Old Town favourite. The imaginative,
great-value food on offer includes schnitzels, bratwurst,
bangers and mash, lamb, boar, beef steaks, fresh fish and
the house special dish of goose with fried potatoes and a
host of vegetables. There’s live music at weekends and an
extensive range of drinks straight from Germany’s many
states and regions.QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 11, tel. (+370)
52 12 83 12, www.buntegans.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri
11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €15.
ATBESJW
GRILL
HAZIENDA STEAKHOUSE
Enter the secluded courtyard of the Mabre Residence hotel
and turn sharp left to find this gem of a restaurant, ideal
as a centrally located hideaway for a secret date or for a
sheltered business meeting. Practically all of the grills are
seductive, from the prime Argentine steak and the venison
tenderloin to the bass and the bream. The knowledgeable
staff will be able to tell you about the origins of all of the
raw materials. QJ‑9, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 52 12 13 89,
www.mabre.lt. Open 11:30 - 23:00. APTEJW
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket Summer 2018 33
Restaurants
PANAMA FOOD GARDEN
Take a step away from the bustle of the Old Town and head INTERNATIONAL
across the river to this excellent restaurant set inside an old BISTRO 18
wooden house in the leafy residential district of Žvėrynas. The A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro 18
pedigree of the owners is good having already created the specialises primarily in dishes from the world of
popular Meat Lovers Pub, but in contrast this is a little more European seasonal cuisine including French onion soup,
upmarket with a smart but relaxed atmosphere. There are two risotto, pasta and scores of meat-heavy dishes such as
main reasons to jump in a taxi and pop over here, the food beef and rabbit. There are tasty desserts too and the
and the garden. You’ll find the changing menu chalked up aforementioned wine shop is well-stocked. If you’re into
on a board from which we chose duck in onion gravy and a classy dining on one of old Vilnius’ most scenic lanes this
beautifully prepared tuna, both of which were delicious. The might just be the place for you. Note that the kitchen
place to enjoy it is in the peaceful garden, one of the loveliest closes two hours before the restaurant does.QI‑9,
dining spaces in the city. Note that the kitchen closes an hour Stiklių 18, tel. (+370) 67 77 20 91, www.bistro18.lt.
earlier than the restaurant, except on Mon, Tue, Wed when it Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
closes two hours earlier.QE‑7, Vykinto 17a, tel. (+370) 65 08 Sun 13:00 - 21:00. €8-16. APTBSJ6
28 29. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 21:00, Kitchen Open
11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 21:00. Bar Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun BIZARRE
11:30 - 22:00. €15. ATESJ6W In an extraordinarily, darkly, almost industrially intricate
interior with odd East Asian touches, housed even more
PERI PERI weirdly in a former hospital in the old Jewish quarter,
If you like chicken, look no further. Because that’s the only faultlessly presented Asian, Peruvian and Mediterranean
thing on the menu at this fast-food style eatery tucked dishes and creamy desserts are served. Sharply dressed
down an Old Town side street. Devour your poultry fried locals enjoy late-evening weekend parties on the second
or grilled, with a choice of glaze and homemade sauce floor with live music and fine wine. Sumptuous if pricey
– try the maple-bacon glaze and the peri-chilli sauce weekend brunches and weekday menus keep the Vilnius
with a side of chorizo black beans. And start with the elite rolling in at all hours.QPylimo 38, tel. (+370) 61 26
flavour-packed chicken stock. Free range and healthy it’s 44 44, www.bizarre.lt/. Open 12:00 - 00:00, Fri 12:00 -
not. Tasty it most certainly is.QEtmonų 2, tel. (+370) 61 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00; lunch Mon
01 33 57. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon 11:00 - 20:00, Fri - Fri 12:00 - 16:00; brunch Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00
11:00 - 00:00, Sat 12:00 - 00:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. - 16:00. €22. APTUBW
TBSV
CARRÉ
THE TOWN CONTEMPORARY GRILL & BAR It may not be inspired by John le Carré, but its interior
One of the best options for meaty dining in Vilnius, The is as dark and twisting as a spy thriller. Yet the menu of
Town exudes a New York ambiance in its chunkily modern this elegant ‘bar & lounge’ inside the flashy city-centre
décor, city-light colours, comfy seating, congenial service GO9 shopping mall is no mystery. The chicken Caesar
and upbeat jazzy notes from the speakers. It’s a welcoming salad is popular, but we recommend the steak, tuna
spot at all times, from its sumptuous breakfast to late-night and mussels. Flustered at busy weekday lunchtimes, by
drinks. Try the generous slab of beef tartare, the excellent evening it’s a more inviting cocktail-driven prospect,
gourmet burger or any of the succulent steaks; UDSA- especially if the outdoor terrace is open. But the service
grade rib eye and entrecote may be on the board. Choose continues to be touch-and-go.QI‑8, Gedimino 9, tel.
from optional sides and sauces.QH‑8, Gedimino 26, tel. (+370) 68 79 01 59, www.carre.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
(+370) 52 03 12 28, www.town.lt. Open 08:00 - 10:30, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
11:30 - 22:00, Fri open 08:00 - 10:30, 11:30 - 23:00, Sat €10. APTUBSJW
open 09:30 - 13:30, 14:00 - 23:00, Sun open 09:30 -
13:30, 14:00 - 18:00. €16. APTSJW PAUPIO12
This is the smartest Paupio Street has ever been. For
ZOE’S BAR & GRILL centuries, the fag end of Užupis was a lair for the washed-
The great thing about Zoe’s, besides its location by the up dregs of society but today we have chic hangouts
cathedral, its fun atmosphere with outdoor seating in like Paupio12. An old house stripped to the rafters and
summer, its classic yet eclectic menu from snacks to a reworked with faultless contemporary design, it’s almost
la carte (we especially love the grills and burgers) and overly self-conscious. Our tattooed uniformed waitress
its Nordic reliability, is the fact that it opens early for brought flourless homemade bread and herby oil while we
breakfast at 8am and keeps making the dishes in its waited, quite a while, for super-creamy cauliflower soup
open kitchen all the way round the clock until 3am when and pizza. Which is all we could afford. Other dishes need
it rustles up night snacks. It also has an aquarium with add-on side dishes, and with wine too the bill can be a
lobster, allowing you to select your victim.QOdminų 3, small fortune.QPaupio 12, tel. (+370) 67 60 99 12. Open
tel. (+370) 52 12 33 31, www.zoesbargrill.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 11:30 - 21:00,
08:00 - 03:00. APJWK Closed Mon. €16. APTUB6W
34 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
KOSHER
The best Vilnius BEIGELIŲ KRAUTUVĖLĖ
An array of authentic and tasty Jewish and Israeli food is
served in a building that’s also the headquarters of the
has to offer Lithuanian Jewish community. Fresh, heavy bagels are
filled with creamy stuffing like egg salad, hummus, cream
in one great app cheese and salmon, but you might also find poached-egg
shakshouka, latkes potato pancakes, chatzilim aubergine
salad – and so much more you’ll want to keep coming back.
Shuts early on Fridays, closed for Sabbath on Saturdays.
QPylimo g. 4, www.lzb.lt/en/. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri
09:00 - 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. A
LEBANESE
LEYLA
A tiny slice of the Middle East can be found in the Old Town,
at the friendly box-shaped restaurant Leyla. When we heard
about its meze plate we wanted to experience it, but when
we dropped in they’d run out of some key ingredients. They
immediately offered to replace them with multiple types
of spring rolls and even reduced the price, and it turned
out to be a delicious lunch, more than enough for two,
the highlights being the first-rate hummus and falafel. A
colourful interior of Lebanese carpets and patterns was let
down a bit by the decidedly non-Lebanese music, but we’ll
be back.QLiejyklos gatvė 1, tel. (8-620) 99901, www.
www.leyla.lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 07:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€. ATSV
City Essentials farmers for local organic produce, plus eco supplies from
abroad when out of season. That ramps up the price quite a
bit, but the beef consommé, filet mignon and slow-cooked
duck are all truly fabulous.QDominikonų g.15, tel. (8-650)
54458, www.restoranasvilniuje.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Only our favourite places ATSJK
Works offline, incl. maps
Free download MEXICAN
SOFA DE PANCHO
Incl. dozens of other cities Sofa de Pancho may not have any Mexicans working in
the open kitchen but those who do are enthusiastic and
rather talented. One of the best things about the place is
www.iyp.me/app that everything’s been thrown together in a jumble-sale
fashion that adds a touch of exuberance to a city with too
many sterile restaurants. Try the breakfast tortillas if you’re
feeling brave, and don’t do what we did and turn up on
a Tuesday evening assuming there’d be a table. Closed in
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S summer.QI‑11, Visų Šventųjų 5, tel. (+370) 67 38 90 02.
Open 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
€15. APTSJ6
36 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
VEGAN/VEGETARIAN
GYVAS BARAS
Many of the dishes at this informal eatery are vegan, with
daily specials chalked up according to whatever’s in season.
You might find tofu burgers, veggie tacos, oven-roasted
aubergines, pumpkin soup, carrot pancakes and other
delights. The interior may be lacking in character, but the
staff are warm and helpful.QI‑10, Trakų 11/2, tel. (+370)
65 69 29 39, www.gyvasbaras.lt. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Thu
11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:45, Sat 12:00 - 23:45, Sun
13:00 - 20:00. €5.5. APSVJ6W Local snacks at Senoji Trobelė
TEA
LITTLE MAVIS CAFE
The last place you’d expect to stumble upon two English
gentlemen running a proper tearoom is next to the Gates
of Dawn, yet there it is. The only café in town that has
genuine English scones, not to mention your choice of
seven blends of Fortnum & Mason leaf tea, they can also
rustle you up breakfast any hour of the day.QAušros Vartų
19. Open 09:00 - 18:00. APJW
Now that the city’s wine-drinking crowd have their own LOCAL BREWS
places to imbibe, the city’s nightlife entrepreneurs are Go for any beers that are from boutique breweries
turning their attention to the subject of beer, namely the around the country, at casual bars like Alaus Biblioteka,
regular openings of new places selling brown frothy drinks Bukowski Baras and Trinity. For a taste of something
made in small microbreweries around the country. The very local and a bit odd, squeeze into Šnekutis, which
best are listed here. Some clubs, but not all, apply a cover alternates its beers so regularly it sticks handwritten notes
charge. For the less rowdy, there are plenty of cosier bars on the taps. The craft beer trend continues to evolve, but
worth seeking out. The clubs remain almost exclusively we can’t say the names of our favourites, as Lithuania’s
mainstream, whilst the city’s gay and lesbian scene is new alcohol law prohibits publications from doing so. All
almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site. Note we can humbly suggest to you is that you ask the nice
that face control is currently on the rise in Vilnius; if yours person behind the bar for advice on the finest brews.
doesn’t fit, forget it. Wearing a decent pair of shoes usually Some establishments are thoughtfully starting to open
helps. Leave your trainers at home and have fun! almost all night, like Endless Bar.
BARDAKAS
The name of this often insanely busy bar means ‘messy
place’ and it can get so crowded on weekend nights the
guy at the door has to turn people away. If you come early
enough to secure table seating, you’re lucky. Everyone else
has to rub limbs while they dance or edge their way past
the DJ to the bar, to order cocktails with fruit syrup and chilli
peppers, or G&Ts with popcorn. Get plates of generously
topped nachos too, for everyone!QVilniaus 22, tel. (+370)
63 33 06 99. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Lively nightlife at Carré (see restaurants)
SELFIECIDE BAR
Get your low-key kicks, your jungle and drum n bass, at
this underground (literally) bar just off Gedimino. Order
a David Lynch cocktail and crunchy chicken pieces while
your eardrums absorb the drones of the Rasta DJ. Order
a burger and you get a shot of chilled Jägermeister on COCAINN
the house, or so they told us; we weren’t hungry. We just Occupying three rooms catering to different tastes, there are
slurped a Newcastle Brown, nodding as the dub washed crowded bars with fiery barmen shows, a lounge for cocktails
over us.QVilniaus 12, tel. (+370) 61 51 40 67. Open and beers, a ‘quiet’ room where guests can eat from a menu
19:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 19:00 - 02:00, Wed 19:00 of gourmet dishes and, of course, a good old-fashioned
- 07:00. night club with dancing girls dressed as nurses among
other things. There’s also a spot for smoking cigars. Party
ŽVĖRYNO SMUKLĖ until the morning with a full house of revellers. The perfect
The bend-in-the-river residential district of Žvėrynas is introduction to Eastern European nightlife.QI‑8, Gedimino
always a pleasure to explore, with its criss-cross lanes and 2a, tel. (+370) 60 04 78 62. Open 22:00 - 06:00, Tue 22:00 -
eclectic mix of wooden houses, art deco cubes, modern 04:00, Wed 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. APJW
mansions and riverside views. Close to the onion-domed
Orthodox church is this old-fashioned delight of a bar- MOJO LOUNGE VILNIUS
restaurant. Its inexpensive potato pancakes are the best A gorgeous place, decked out in style without ever going
in town, perfect with a beer, and the interior is utterly over-the-top, with a powerful sound system, sumptuous
informal, like all good taverns, while the streetside benches lighting and sexy patrons. Mojo Lounge hosts loads of
are popular in summer.QVytauto 37, tel. (+370) 61 13 74 regular parties, wild nights and live events and attracts a
99, www.zverynosmukle.lt/en/about-us. Open 10:30 - varied, affluent crowd. It’s the kind of club where you don’t
23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €. AJ have to worry about feeling too old, or too young. Top
music, and the service is good too (it doesn’t take all night
to get a drink). A winner!QI‑10, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370)
CLUBS 65 76 65 00, www.mojolounge.lt. Open 23:00 - 05:00.
As any serious clubber already knows, nights change with Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free or from
alarming regularity, good promoters come and go and €3 €€. APXEJ
expected crowds fail to turn up. The good news about
clubbing in Vilnius is that entrance prices are relatively
low and the city is remarkably small. If you do happen to Where’s the party?
stumble on a non-event, relocating to another club is both facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
quick and affordable.
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket Summer 2018 47
Nightlife
Read more reviews online: COCKTAILS
vilnius.inyourpocket.com ALCHEMIKAS
It’s about time a cocktail bar came along that was more
OPIUM about the art of cocktails than the pretence of the
Located above the Asian restaurant Briusly (yes, Bruce cocktail bar sensation. Specialising in both classic and
Lee), Opium is run by international DJs who’ve created a modern mixed drinks, it’s worth paying them a visit just
Berlin superclub in miniature. It’s a bit cramped and starkly to have a peep at the extraordinary interior, and if you
minimal, but the Funktion One sound-system is the best do choose to stick around, expect to be bankrupt by
in the city and it’s worth a look even if you don’t recognise the end of the evening thanks to the addictive allure of
any names on the lineup. Intelligent face control ensures the magnificent mixology. Note that this is one of the
drunks, idiots and folks who buy their clothes at markets smallest bars in Vilnius, so serious cocktail lovers should
remain outside.QH‑9, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370) 69 14 12 come on Wednesday or Thursday, as Friday can be very
05, www.opiumclub.lt/. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, full. Recommended.QH‑9, Islandijos 1, tel. (+370) 62
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. €€. AXEJW 02 54 00. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00.
ABJ
PABO LATINO
With three halls and two bars of sheer class, Pabo Latino BJØRN
pumps out music that’s either live or courtesy of some We started (when it was empty) and ended (when it was
excellent DJs, while its massive cocktail menu is full full) our Friday night at Bjørn recently, a spot that has
of refreshing delights. The club of choice for 20- and replaced an earlier incarnation called Berlin. Expertly
30-something professionals, it keeps a tough-but-fair mixed (but not cheap) signature cocktails, a darkly
door policy so that what you get inside is a well-behaved sparkling interior, a beautiful crowd of locals and a
bunch of smart, good-looking people out for a fun evening groovy DJ. This corner of the Old Town, on Islandijos and
in pleasant and sometimes wild surroundings. On some Vilniaus, is still the must-experience late-night hotspot
nights there are lessons on how to dance Latino-style, in Vilnius. Berlin is dead, long live Bjørn!QIslandijos 1,
but late on weekend nights the music is as electro as it tel. (+370) 60 96 16 16. Open Wed 18:00 - 01:00, Thu
is Latino.QH‑10, Trakų 3, tel. (+370) 52 62 10 45, www. 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
pabolatino.lt. Open Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - Sun. ABJ
05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission free or €5
- 10 €€. APXBEJ DISTILERIJA
We enjoyed watching our Smoked Manhattan cocktail
PANTERA get made at this jazzy joint in the Old Town populated
Enjoy cool cocktails and hot clubbing at this thumpingly mostly by young professionals. The restless yet steady-
popular venue on the edge of the Old Town, where the handed, denim-attired barman blowtorched a piece
crowd who make past the hardworking face control are of wood and placed the glass upside-down on the
young, fashionable and supremely attractive, while the blackened splinters, then filled it with rye whisky,
place itself is much the same. It looks fabulous, packed vermouth and angostura bitters. Sit at the bar and you
with comfy black leather sofas ripe for chilling on with feel dwarfed by the sheer number of bottles, mostly
your expertly made drink. Watching the bar staff in action whiskies, but there are many draught and bottled beers
is a night out in itself and the waitresses are as gorgeous too including English bitter, Witte Parel and the strong
as the clientele. You’ll love it the moment you walk in. local Bocmano ūsai IPA. The food highlights are beer-
QVilniaus 33, tel. (+370) 62 63 73 43. Fri, Sat 23:00 - battered fish and chips, lamb sausages and sticky pork
05:00. APXW ribs, all excellent.QVilniaus 28, tel. (+370) 64 53 12 06.
Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00,
Sun 12:00 - 02:00. APJW
LOVE BAR
We love Love Bar! Look for the pink heart above stairs
leading into a basement and discover the coolest,
friendliest cocktail bar in the city, a neon-lit cavern by the
market. Try every one of the clever but unpretentious drinks
and snacks on the menu, from the citrusy honeyed vodka to
the elderflower concoctions to the smoky-aubergine baba
ganoush to the brandy-infused chicken liver pâté. Open
to everyone, regardless of orientation, you’re guaranteed
a warm welcome.QPylimo 59, tel. (+370) 64 39 94 17.
Open 18:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon,
Good friends and brews at Šnekutis Tue, Sun. €€. AJW
48 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
PROHIBICIJA
A tiny space stacked out with craft beers mainly from
Denmark, like the bitter blonde Campale or the peaty, smoky
Polish-style Grätze, and a hundred others, Prohibition also
sells the finest limited-edition Lithuanian craft beers by
Sakiškių near Vilnius and Kaunas’ Genys. Gluten-free beers
are available too. If space is tight, carry your choice to a table
in one of the neighbouring bars.QArklių 6, tel. (+370) 68
78 62 74, www.prohibicija.lt. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 02:00, Closed Mon, Sun. ABJ
HOOKAHS
CAIT BLU
Cait Blue tries to be all things to all people but ends
up falling between the barstools. Everything here is a
contradiction, and maybe that’s the point. In the morning,
pull in for an English breakfast, though not quite a full one,
with a Greek-style iced espresso poured into a cocktail
glass. For lunch, wash down your juicy Jackie Boy pulled
pork burger with a rose gin and tonic cocktail created by
the brash, bearded barman. Try to eat while slouched in the
low, custom-made armchairs. By evening, do what really
suits this laidback bar, and smoke a hookah.QBokšto 1,
tel. (+370) 52 10 42 26. Open 09:00 - 21:00. AB
The Lithuanian capital’s first period of growth took place GEDIMINAS CASTLE & MUSEUM (GEDIMINO
immediately south of today’s Cathedral Square, eventually PILIS IR MUZIEJUS)
becoming the toothsome jumble of Baroque, Gothic, Dating from the 13th century, the castle was rebuilt by
Neoclassical and Renaissance architecture now known as Grand Duke Vytautas after a major fire in 1419. By the
Old Town. Although most people flock to the city to visit this early 1600s it was being used as a prison for disobedient
undeniable gem, there are plenty of other things to see when members of the ruling classes, but during the chaotic 1655-
in town, from the very Lithuanian eccentricities encountered 61 Russian occupation the towers and defensive walls were
over the imaginary border in the self-styled Republic of almost completely destroyed, with partial restoration
Užupis to the few remaining relics of a once thriving Jewish work beginning as late as 1930, by the then-occupying
community to the occasional Soviet-era masterpiece. Poles. Inside the tower itself find models of the structure
as it appeared in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other
bits and pieces on the building’s history and knights in
ESSENTIAL VILNIUS dented armour. The views from the hill and from the top of
GATES OF DAWN (AUŠROS VARTAI) the castle are the ideal start to a tour of the city. The walk
Completed in 1522, the Gates of Dawn is the only up is a bit of a struggle for many, but there are benches
remaining gate from the city’s original defensive walls. As thoughtfully provided along the way.QJ‑8, Castle Hill, tel.
was common at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary was (+370) 52 61 74 53, www.lnm.lt/en/gediminas-castle-
placed above all gates to protect the city, and the story of tower/. Open 10:00 - 21:00. €5/2. J
the Gates of Dawn starts from this simple historic fact. The
current image, known as The Blessed Virgin Mary Mother
of Mercy, was painted on eight pieces of oak in around
1630 by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold
and silver about 40 years after that, was housed inside
a purpose-built chapel above the gate in 1706 and is
believed to have magical healing powers. Interestingly, the
site is revered by both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths
and is such an important part of the city’s cultural heritage
that it remained open throughout the Soviet occupation.
The chapel is open to the public and is accessed via a
small door on the left as you’re walking up the hill.QJ‑11,
Aušros Vartų 14, tel. (+370) 52 12 35 13. Open 06:00 -
19:00, Mass 09:00 (Lithuanian), 10:00 (Polish), Sun 09:30
(Lithuanian). J Gates of Dawn Lila Jarvis
© Vytautas Abramauskas
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LITHUANIAN THEATRE, MUSIC & CINEMA MUSEUM MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS AND DESIGN
(LIETUVOS TEATRO, MUZIKOS IR KINO MUZIEJUS) (TAIKOMOSIOS DAILĖS MUZIEJUS)
Originating in 1926 as a theatre museum and slowly In the 16th century, this was the far northeastern
collecting departments and exhibits over the decades, this corner of the city’s original defensive walls and held
mildly interesting cultural diversion inside an 18th-century one of the region’s largest armouries. Though much
palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian history of the of the Old Arsenal was destroyed during World War II,
three arts. Among several badly ventilated rooms full of segments of the earlier structure including an original
harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters and recordings gate can still be seen inside. This worthy inclusion into
of famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems the city’s national treasures was rebuilt in 1986. Today
including several displays given over to the life of the it displays Lithuanian and foreign applied art, hosts
actress Unė Babickaitė (aka. Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), concerts and, since 2010, has offered a revealing look
who fund a modicum of cinematic success in the United at authentic historical costumes from the fascinating
States in the 1920s.QI‑9, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 52 62 collection of the fashion historian Alexander Vassiliev.
24 06/(+370) 52 31 27 24, www.ltmkm.lt. Open 11:00 - QJ‑8, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 52 62 80 80, www.ldm.
18:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, lt/en/. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sun. Admission €2/1. Family ticket €3. J Mon. Admission €1.80/0.90. J
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket Summer 2018 61
Sightseeing
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to the city with children in tow who are already fed up with
churches and the like. Not the easiest place to find in the
world, keep an eye out for the sign on the wall along with
a lot of other signs. Entrance is through the door just to the
right.QJ‑8, Šiltadaržio 2, tel. (+370) 60 40 04 49, www.
zaislumuziejus.lt. Open 14:00 - 18:00, Fri 14:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission €4/3. J
PLANETARIUM (PLANETARIUMAS)
A classic old school 1960s sci-fi adventure, Vilnius’
dilapidated but charming Planetarium is available for
prearranged tours of 15 people or more, or take your
chance at the times listed below. Featuring a galaxy of
projectors aimed at the inside of the building’s dome, shows
include the fabulously named Venture into Space and Stars
and Music. Find the entrance on Šnipiškių, just south of
Konstitucijos.QH‑6, Konstitucijos 12a, tel. (+370) 61 57
An exhibit by Gintaras Karosas © Europos Parkas
70 54, www.planetarium.lt. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00
- 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission €3.50/2.50/1.50. J
64 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
PRESIDENTIAL PALACE (PREZIDENTŪRA) STEBUKLAS
The official residence of the President of Lithuania, this About halfway between the cathedral and the bell tower
gleaming white palace started life in the 14th century as a is the stebuklas, or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone
much smaller structure built at the behest of the city’s first believed to perform wonders and with the word stebuklas
Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzębiec (d.1398). Gaining its Classical written on it, the site marks the spot where one end of the
appearance much later, it remained the home of the cream human chain of some two million protesting Lithuanians,
of the city’s Catholic clergy until the 1795 Partition when Latvians and Estonians stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn
it became the residence of Vilnius’ tsarist governors. Many was formed on August 23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and
illustrious figures have spent a night in the building over hope, stand on the miracle, turn a complete clockwise
the centuries, among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon circle and make a wish.QI‑8, Arkikatedros Square. J
Bonaparte and local boy, military giant and Polish national
hero Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) to name but a few. TOWN HALL (ROTUŠĖ)
After independence in 1991, the structure served several First mentioned in 1503, the Town Hall most likely dates
purposes until assuming its current role in 1997. The from the 15th century, while the present Classical structure
presidential flag can be seen flying over the building when was built at the end of the 18th century. In 1810 the
the president is in residence or in the city. Changing of the governor general ordered that the Town Hall housed
Guard takes place on Sundays at 12:00. From spring to the a theatre, which gave performances on and off until
start of October, at 12:00-18:00, it is possible to enter the 1924. Since then its interior has been a museum. Until
spacious rear courtyard without being part of an excursion. the reestablishment of independence it served as the
QI‑9, S. Daukanto 3, tel. +370 5 266 4011, www.lrp.lt/ Lithuanian Art Museum.QI‑10, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 52
en/institution/presidential-palace/20817. Free tours of 61 80 07, www.vilniausrotuse.lt. J
the Presidential Palace take place on Fridays from 16:45,
Sundays and Sundays 09:00 - 14:30. Tours are limited to 25 VILNIUS CATHEDRAL BELL TOWER (VILNIAUS
people. See www.lrp.lt or call tel. (+370) 70 66 40 73. J KATEDROS VARPINĖ)
Closed for more than a decade, the Bell Tower of Vilnius
TELEVISION TOWER (TELEVIZIJOS BOKŠTAS) Cathedral has finally reopened to visitors. One of the city’s
The tallest structure in the country, the 326m Television defining monuments and a popular meeting place, the
Tower was built from reinforced concrete and steel tower originally formed part of the city’s 13th century
between 1974 and 1980 to a design by Lithuanian defensive wall, becoming a belfry in the 16th century. Fifty-
architects. On 13 January 1991, as the disintegration of seven metres tall, it was remodelled and given its current
the USSR reached a frenzied pace and Moscow attempted look in the 19th century. Besides offering fine views from
to retake control of the Lithuanian media, Soviet tanks the top, it hosts an exhibition of bells and also documents
surrounded the tower in an assault that killed 14 unarmed the building’s reconstruction.QI‑8, Katedros 2, tel. (+370)
civilians. The tower has since become a potent symbol. 60 01 20 80, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
Around it are a few monuments and photographs of those Closed Sun. €4.50/2.50. AJ
who lost their lives and whose names the nearby streets
are now called in honour of. Inside at ground level is the
small Sausio 13-osios ekspozicija (January 13th Exhibition) SIGHTSEEING TOURS
commemorating the brutal events including a copy of the EGLĖ MICKEVIČIENĖ
original Soviet military attack plan, weapons used to beat Explore Vilnius and Lithuania on foot and by car with a
protesters and some affecting photographs. The exhibition freelancer guide and tour leader with 15 years experience.
is free, but the fast ride in the lift to visit the combined Tours available in English, Russian, Lithuanian.Qtel. (+370)
270m restaurant and viewing station isn’t. A taxi from Old 68 36 95 28.
Town costs somewhere in the region of €6. Alternatively,
take trolleybus Nº 16 from the train station to the Televizijos VILNIUS CITY TOUR
Bokštas stop. QSausio 13-osios 10, tel. (+370) 52 52 53 Tours of the historic centre in a number of languages. Also
33, www.tvbokstas.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - audio guides available.QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370)
22:00. Admission €7-9/6. 69 95 40 64, www.vilniuscitytour.com. JA
Monument to Zemach Shabad (1864-1935; sculptor Romualdas Kvintas), put up on Mėsinių Street in
May 2007 to pay tribute to the famous Jewish doctor’s special care of children | © www.vilnius-tourism.lt
Lithuanian Jews can be traced back seven centuries. The The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth had become home
classic Lithuanian Jew (Litvak) is known in folklore for a love to the world’s biggest Jewish population. In 1800, at least a
of education, no-nonsense straight-talk and a sharp wit. quarter of a million Jews lived in Lithuania, but by then the
Jews were settled from an early date in Vilna as the capital country had been absorbed into the Russian tsarist empire.
is known in Jewish culture (more precisely Vilne in Yiddish). Hassidism, which strengthened traditional principals of faith
The first historical sources that mention the Jews go back while urging people to enjoy life, was spread in Lithuania
3,300 years to ancient Egypt. Ever since then they have by learned rabbis. But Vilna was also the world capital for
been the victims of – and have fought against – countless traditional Talmudic learning, eventually becoming known
persecutions. They were even blamed for the spread of the as the Jerusalem of Lithuania, or Jerusalem of the North.
plague and leprosy in Europe, prompting thousands to be Towering over the many great Jewish figures the city has
murdered. In 1492, they were expelled from Spain. produced is unquestionably the Vilna Gaon (‘Wiseman’) Elijah
Some Jewish families were attracted to starting a new son of Shlomo Zalman (1720-97), who criticised Hassidism.
life in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. In 1323, Grand Towns large and small would be connected by wholesale
Duke Gediminas issued an invitation for craftsmen and and retail trade networks, while Jews established
merchants to settle there, stressing the tolerance of local themselves as successful tailors, grocers, furriers, clothiers,
people, and in 1388 under Vytautas the Great, the Duchy’s innkeepers, doctors and herbalists. Academies for young
Jews gained their first charter. Jewish men, yeshivot, in Kaunas, Vilnius, Telšiai and
The charter was confirmed in 1507, by which time more than Panevėžys were internationally renowned.
6,000 Jews were residing in the Grand Duchy. Jews were Life for Jews in the tsarist empire was restrictive, however.
also involved in changing and lending money and the local Throughout the 19th century, a Pale of Settlement was put in
nobility often asked them to maintain their financial affairs. By place in the western borderlands where Jews were allowed to
the mid-16th century, around 30,000 Jews called the Grand settle. Jews were not permitted to move from there into the
Duchy their home. Many more sought sanctuary in Lithuania inner regions of Russia. Jewish boys were forced to conscript
during the bloody Northern Wars and Great Plague of 1708- into the Tsar’s army for a term of 25 years, many of them
11. forced to be baptised. By the outbreak of World War I most
Jewish communities tended to exist fairly independently, Jews were impoverished, with irregular incomes.
with each local community (kahal), made up of rabbis and Jews were instructed to move out of villages, as they were
elders responsible for collecting taxes and maintaining public blamed for alcoholism and dishonesty among local people.
buildings. A council, or Va’ad, kept close relations with the Although Jews made up little over 14% of the population
monarch and made sure the correct taxes were given to the of Lithuania, towns like Ukmergė became more than 50%
state, while steadfastly opposing any anti-Jewish legislation. Jewish. Small towns known as shtetl thrived with dozens of
Jews in other countries could not boast of such autonomy. wooden houses, a wooden synagogue and countless artisans.
66 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Jewish Vilnius
At the same time, however, Litvaks were known for their CHORAL SYNAGOGUE (CHORALINĖ SINAGOGA)
dedication to science as well as religion, their high intellect Built in a Moorish style in 1903, this is the sole survivor
and individualism. Though the Haskalah tradition which out of more than 100 pre-war Jewish prayer houses in
promoted Jewish assimilation with other cultures was slow Vilnius. The term Choral Synagogue relates to the inclusion
to take hold in Lithuania, communities gradually opened of a choir section, a feature considered by some to be a
up more. Zionism, which looked to the creation of a new revolutionary form of modernisation and assimilation at
state in Palestine, also gained in popularity. In Vilnius, the time it was built.QI‑11, Pylimo 39. J
Kaunas and other cities and towns, traditional rabbis
clashed with progressive cultural activists. At the same JEWISH COMMUNITY OF LITHUANIA (LIETUVOS
time, anti-Semitism increased among Christians, spurred ŽYDŲ BENDRUOMENĖ)
on by rumour and propaganda. This is the country’s primary address for its living Jewish
As the 20th century approached, Jews become renowned people, providing a wide range of cultural, communal
activists, writers, journalists and businessmen. Famous and social services from kindergarten through to senior
Litvaks included the brilliant violinist Yasha Heifetz, the level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich
influential artists Chaim Soutine, Marc Chagall and Jacques (Simonas Alperavičius), legendary for standing up for
Lipchitz and such expressive native-Yiddish writers as Jewish rights however and whenever the community
Abraham Sutzkever, Chaim Grade and Moshe Kulbak. comes under challenge. Along with the two functioning
Between the wars, Vilna – at that time under Polish rule houses of worship, this is where you can meet the
and known as Wilno – was a bustling international centre genuine Jewish locals. The building also houses a youth
of modern Yiddish culture and scholarship. Jews made up club, Jewish Student Union, Union of Former Ghetto and
more than 36% of the city’s population. Yiddish schools, Concentration Camp Inmates and the Union of WWII
newspapers and many other institutions flourished. Vilna Jewish Veterans.QH‑9, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 52 61 30
had more than a hundred synagogues and prayer houses. 03, www.lzb.lt. J
Famous libraries such as the Strashun Library had more
than 35,000 rare volumes of literature by the mid-1930s.
Scholars gathered in Berlin in 1925 founded YIVO, the MUSEUMS
Institute for Jewish Research, to be located not in Prague HOLOCAUST EXPOSITION (HOLOKAUSTO
or Warsaw but in Vilna, with branches in Warsaw and New EKSPOZICIJA)
York. Honorary members included Sigmund Freud and The green wooden house reached via a tiny lane up
Albert Einstein. It was between the wars that Vilna truly from Pamėnkalnio Street is the location of the Holocaust
became known as the Jerusalem of Lithuania – the capital Exhibition of the Vilna Gaon State Jewish Museum, to give
of Yiddish culture and learning. its full name. There you will find in-depth information
But this thriving life was cut short. During the Holocaust about the once flourishing culture and history of Lithuania’s
around 95% of Lithuania’s Jews – 200,000 women, children Jews, also known as Litvaks in Yiddish. The tragedy of the
and men – were murdered, the highest percentage Holocaust, in which so much of this community was lost,
in Europe, destroying centuries of Jewish existence is of course also covered in grim detail. The museum is
in Lithuania. Many were killed by local collaborators, not afraid to talk about Lithuanian collaboration in those
including the vast majority of the 80,000 Jewish residents dark times and leaves no aspect of the topic untouched.
who lived in Vilna before the Nazi invasion of June 1941. One unusual section is the Malina, a ghetto hideout video
Sites of mass murder can be found throughout the country. and audio installation in which real diary entries can be
Today, Lithuania’s small Jewish community of three to four experienced. Guided tours available in English, Lithuanian,
thousand makes bold efforts to maintain its extraordinary German and Russian.QH‑8, Pamėnkalnio 12, tel. (+370)
and valuable heritage. 52 62 07 30, www.jmuseum.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri
09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission
€3/1.50. J
JEWISH LIFE
CHABAD LUBAVITCH CENTRE (CHABAD
LUBAVITCH ŽYDŲ RELIGINĖ BENDRUOMENĖ) JEWISH TOURS
This combined community centre and synagogue
is engaged in numerous religious projects aimed at Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew
enlightening those who need enlightening and restoring through the Baltics and Belarus.
the spirit and sensibilities of religious Jewish life. Led by
the Boston-born Rabbi Sholom Ber Krinsky, the only truly Yulik Gurevitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09
resident rabbi in Lithuania over the last decade and a half, Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85
Chabad is especially known for its festive Jewish holiday Raya Shapiro Tel. (+370) 600 207 59
celebrations, at which everybody is welcome. It also Justina Petrauskaitė Meškauskienė
supplies visitors with kosher food and needed religious Tel. (+370) 699 540 64
items and services.QJ‑10, Bokšto 19, tel. (+370) 52 16 Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91
60 73. J
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket Summer 2018 67
Jewish Vilnius
PANERIAI MEMORIAL MUSEUM (PANERIŲ VILNIUS GAON JEWISH STATE MUSEUM
MEMORIALINIS MUZIEJUS) (VALSTYBINIS VILNIAUS GAONO ŽYDŲ
Between July 1941 and July 1944, approximately 70,000 MUZIEJUS)
people of whom over half were Jewish were murdered Established inside a former Jewish theatre, the Centre
at this site by the Nazi Security Police (Gestapo), the SS for Tolerance’s activities include visiting exhibitions
security service and the Vilniaus ypatingasis burys (Vilnius and a permanent exhibition on the upper floors. It is a
Special Squad), in which the majority were Lithuanians. beautifully restored building and is used for art exhibitions,
Find several monuments and the remains of pits where symposiums, conferences, discussions and seminars.
the victims were killed and burned. A tiny museum inside QH‑10, Naugarduko 10/2, tel. (+370) 52 62 96 66, www.
the territory displays copies of archival photographs – not jmuseum.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
recommended for children – and documents, explained in Closed Sat. Admission €3/1.50. J
an irregular mix of languages. Paneriai (Ponar to the Jews,
Ponary to the Poles, Paneriai to the Lithuanians) is about
10km southwest of the Old Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas- STATUES & MEMORIALS
bound train, get off at Paneriai, turn right from the station JEWISH CEMETERY (ŽYDŲ KAPINĖS)
and walk about 800 metres along Agrastu Street. The site By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries were
is at the end of the road. To get there by car, leave Vilnius destroyed after the war. With the help of foreign
via Švitrigailos Street and follow the same road, bearing diplomacy only a few graves of famous people such as
right on Eišiškiu plentas (near the Statoil fuel station) and the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a concession to
then follow the signs. You also can reach the memorial the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually
via the city’s western bypass keeping the direction to opened just before the war and nowadays, especially on
Lyda and Minsk. It’s possible to find using a GPS or online Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the graves
route planner (e.g. www.google.com/maps). Going by bus of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals. The
is complicated, entailing several changes. For a chilling Gaon’s grave attracts visitors from many countries who
eyewitness account of the events that took place here, leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of
read Kazimierz Sakowicz’s extraordinary book Ponary the entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery
Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale, or Martin Winstone’s can be obtained if it’s open. Gravestones are covered
book The Holocaust Sites of Europe: An Historical Guide in the writing of many languages including Yiddish,
published by I B Tauris.QAgrastų 15, tel. (+370) 66 28 95 Lithuanian, Russian, Polish and English. To get there from
75, www.jmuseum.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, By the centre, take bus Nº73 from the Juozo Tumo-Vaižganto
appointment only. Admission free for individual visitors. stop or Nº43 from the Lukiškės bus stop.QB‑2, Sudervės
For groups of up to 30 people €30, up to 15 people €16. Kelias 28.
KYBYNLAR
Widely reputed as one of Trakai’s best spots for a food stop,
on colder days enjoy this authentic Karaite eatery’s cosy
and colourful eastern-style sofas upstairs, or in summer
sit on the lakeside terrace. Unique circular crusty pies filled
with fish, lamb or chicken are perfect with a beer, as are the
more typical smaller Cornish pasty-style kibinai. Moroccan-
inspired dishes like tajine are delicious too, as is the fried ACCOMMODATION
trout in grape leaves, though you may have to wait a while
for these. Don’t forget to try the traditional herbal Karaite
liqueur.QKaraimų 29, tel. (+370) 69 80 63 20/(+370) APVALAUS STALO KLUBAS
52 85 51 79, www.kybynlar.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Mon About as feminine as it gets, a night here is like
12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. €6. APTUB something straight out of Alice In Wonderland.
SW Overlooking the fairytale Gothic towers of the Castle,
the interiors appear to have been designed by a
SENOJI KIBININĖ committee of hairdressers and old ladies. If you can
Trakai’s oldest Karaite restaurant churns out endless hot handle the frill of it all, extras include a sauna, two
kibinai pastries with various fillings to an appreciative attached restaurants and wireless internet throughout.
audience packed inside a wooden house like families of This is truly the cream of the crop, and by far the most
sardines. It’s a long way off getting a Michelin star but if expensive option in town.QKaraimų 53a, tel. (+370)
you don’t mind waiting for a table and people treading 52 85 55 95, fax (+370) 52 85 17 60, www.asklubas.
on your toes, bingo, this is a Trakai institution worthy of a lt. €78 - 252. APTILJ6W KHDi
visit.QKaraimų 65, tel. (+370) 52 85 58 65/(+370) 65 97 hhhh
21 32, www.kibinas.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 -
22:00. €5. ATBS ROWING HOTEL
Part of the local rowing club and school, peep
at superb views of the lake through windows in
WATER ACTIVITIES lodgings redolent of a bygone age. All rooms come
HOLIDAY BOAT with showers, internet connections, minibars and
See the Island Castle from multiple angles on these expensive wallpaper. Guests will be delighted to
comfortable, entertaining and educational trips around learn that as well as the aforementioned rowing and
Lake Galvė. The sightseeing boat also drifts past the sleeping options, Academia Remigum comes with a
Peninsula Castle and Užutrakis Palace. Catering is on board, delightfully petite Rowing Museum.QKaraimų 93a,
or at the restaurant Kybynlar, and there’s an optional open- tel. (+370) 69 81 37 77, www.rowinghotel.com.
air deck, a bar, toilets and heating.Qtel. (+370) 67 55 22 5 rooms. APUIL6WHFi hhh
00, www.holiday-boat.lt/en/.
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket Summer 2018 71
Shopping
RAGAINĖ
Found on tiny Skapo Street in the Old Town, this little shop
is a goldmine for Baltic neo-folk, ambient, metal and other
pagan-inspired music on CD, but there’s a whole lot more
here too, like sashes, ceramics, jewellery, leather, bone and Handmade crafts make perfect souvenirs © www.vilnius-tourism.lt
wooden artefacts, linen bags, locally produced incense and
bee products. Clothing and accessories too.QSkapo 3, tel.
(8-678) 86443. Open 12:00 - 19:00. FOOD & DRINK
BIOSALA
SEMPER FEMINA A superior selection of mostly organic food in tins and
A gorgeously arranged boutique of fashions made by local packets plus a few extras like biodegradable washing
designer Jolanta Talaikytė, this is a fantastic little hideaway powder, etc.QI‑9, Vokiečių 13, tel. (+370) 61 06 53 40,
for women.QArklių g.20, tel. (8-686) 01161, www. www.biosala.lt. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
semperfemina.lt/. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. 18:00, Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). AJ
Closed Mon, Sun. €€. AJ
DELIKATESAI MAMMA MIA!
A highly recommended deli in the heart of Old Town
FASHION selling a superb range of food and drink, mostly from small
APRANGA producers in Italy, Spain, Portugal, Belgium and Germany.
Broadly, the style of the fashions on display is As well as a shopping space there’s also a small café inside,
fairly conservative. Service is helpful if you need where coffee and other drinks are served alongside the
it.QKonstitucijos pr. 7A, tel. (+370) 52 75 49 71, aforementioned wonderful food.QI‑10, Stiklių 7, tel.
www.aprangagroup.lt. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 (+370) 67 39 13 92. Open 09:00 - 22:00. ASVJW
- 20:00. A
SWEETS
Based in the city of Šiauliai, Rūta has been churning
out the sweet stuff for over 100 years. Though its
founding family was persecuted during the Soviet
era, the firm is now back in family hands and its
chocs, truffles, soufflés and creams are the tastiest
in the land. Rūta has shops at Klaipėdos 1 (H-9), V
Šopeno 6 (I-11) and A Jakšto 5 (H-7), among other
places.
Art Studio of Jonas Bugailiškis (Aušros Vartų 17) Howard Jarvis
MARKETS
AKROPOLIO BLUSŲ TURGUS
Catching on to the latest craze to sweep the nation, this
weekly flea market outside the vast Akropolis shopping
centre features a fairly decent selection of stalls selling
everything from old paintings to Soviet memorabilia.
QF‑2, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. Open 09:00
Outdoor market during a city festival © www.vilnius-tourism.lt - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat.
78 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
KALVARIJŲ TURGUS
Featuring everything from old ladies selling garlic bulbs
and carrier bags to the occasional bargain goat (cash only),
one of the city’s most endangered species is a must-see
attraction for anyone who wants a taste of what the rest of
the country’s really like. One of the best places in town for
meat, locally-produced honey and cameras manufactured in
the CCCP, also find tropical fish, manbags, Minsk bicycles and
cheap cigarettes from the Roma girls near the main entrance.
QI‑5, Kalvarijų 61, tel. (+370) 69 63 57 18, www.kalvariju-
turgus.lt. Open 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
UPTOWN BAZAAR
Though it’s yet to find its audience, this incredible open-
plan array of mini-eateries with a hipster vibe is paradise
for any foodie. The plod along busy streets to find it is
absolutely worthwhile as you’re rewarded with a choice of
foods too long to list, which you can combine and eat on
the spot or wrap to take away. There’s everything from hot
wings and artisan pizza to fresh oysters and Catalan olives.
Burgers and tacos are made by locals who spent years in the
US, an Italian sells unusual wines and truffles, a cider expert
offers Pommeau and Calvados, and meats are smoked for
your delectation.QKauno 16, tel. (+370) 65 91 93 42,
www.prodo.lt/uptown-bazaar.html. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AXB6W
PANORAMA
SHOPPING CENTRES Loads of retail outlets, entertainment spots and restaurants
EUROPA can be found at this airy mall by the Žvėrynas suburb, next
Situated among the skyscrapers of the business district, to the busy road T.Narbuto. Many high-street names are
this stylish and shapely mall hosts the most sought-after within, plus a top floor of eateries, the country’s first electric
Lithuanian and international brands, plus a range of go-carting centre and smoking rooms by the public toilets.
restaurants. Found a few minutes’ walk from the Radisson QE‑5, Saltoniškių 9, tel. (+370) 52 19 58 11/(+370) 68
Blu Lietuva the high-end premises have a full spectrum of 63 90 60, www.panorama.lt. Shops 10:00 - 21:00, Rimi
men’s and women’s clothing, shoes, accessories and interior Hypermarket 08:00 - 22:00. APXTULWK
design shops. Find such brands as Michael Kors, Wolford,
Stefanel, Twin Set, Laurel, Coccinelle, Grey&White, etc., VCUP
plus a few exclusive men’s stores like Aeronautica Militare, First opened in 1974, this was more-or-less the first modern
Suitsupply, Pierre Cardin and Strellson. Lithuania’s most indoor shopping area to open in Vilnius. After much
famous fashion designers can also be found here.QH‑6, renovation, today it’s still one of the better places to shop in
Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 61 69 56 80, www.pceuropa. the city centre. The stores are small but varied, with eating
lt. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00; shops 10:00 - and drinking options and sweeping river views.QH‑6,
21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00; Maxima 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 Upės 9, tel. (+370) 52 73 15 15, www.vcup.lt/en/. Shops
- 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. APTULJWK 10:00 - 22:00. APULW
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket Summer 2018 79
Leisure
ILLUSION ROOM
ILLUSION ROOM (VILNIL. ILIUZIJŲ MUZIEJUS)
Kids, teens and adults alike are bound to have fun at this
museum of illusions in the Old Town, a first for the Baltics. To
say much more would spoil the surprise. Amazing, intriguing, Take a break at a day spa
friendly and highly recommended.QVokiečių 6, tel. (+370)
67 22 54 14, www.vilnil.lt/en/. Open 10:00 - 21:00. €. TJ
SUPER SEGWAY
These extraordinary if not particularly alluring machines are
KARAOKE available to buy and to rent.QI‑9, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370)
SING 61 23 44 44, www.supersegway.com/en/. Open 11:00 -
The best karaoke bar in the land has more than 40,000 18:00. AJ
songs, a great bar and separate stylish rooms for pop (the
biggest), disco, rock, jazz and classics. Rent the rooms by
the hour, with packages available, plus optional vocal RACQUET SPORTS
effects synthesizer.QGedimino 27, tel. (+370) 69 87 75 TENISO PASAULIS
53, www.singkaraoke.lt/index.php. Open 18:00 - 02:00. From around €15 to €28 an hour depending on when you
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. want to play.QB‑3, Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 65 50 40 50,
www.sebarena.lt/en. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 22:00. A
KAYAKING
PIPIRO BAIDARĖS
See Vilnius from unique and memorable angles by SAUNAS
kayaking down the Neris or the faster, trickier Vilnelė. These RADISSON BLU ASTORIJA
guys drive you to a rural point upriver and then down you A gleaming facility tucked away under one of the city’s
paddle, under bridges and through the city centre.Qtel. finest hotels. Sauna, pool, spa bath and some fitness kit are
(+370) 68 33 89 35, www.pipirobaidares.lt/english/. all present. You can watch people swimming while you’re
on the treadmill. And then join them.QJ‑10, Didžioji 35/2,
tel. (+370) 52 12 01 10, fax (+370) 52 12 17 62, www.
ON WHEELS radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. AJ
PLYTINĖS KARTODROMAS
This go-cart track offers speed, mayhem, danger, so it’s just THE NARUTIS HOTEL – PREFERRED BOUTIQUE
like the rest of Lithuania’s road network, but with smaller There’s a sauna, steam room and a modest pool with spa
cars and more fun.QPlytinės 27, tel. (+370) 69 95 67 04, bath. And a nice little fountain. A hidden treat on the main
www.kartodromas.lt. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 tourist promenade of Old Town.QJ‑9, Pilies 24, tel. (+370)
- 20:00. A 52 12 28 94, www.narutis.com. AJ
INDIGO SPA
A tastefully decorous boudoir adorned in elegant 19th
century decadence, with sumptuous furniture, paintings
and plump cushions, virtually everything bathed in a
deep red glow, Indigo Spa immediately puts its mostly
gentlemen clients at ease with very individual attention.
The delicate touch of exclusivity extends to the salon’s
choice of massages, all of which, so we hear, are designed
for ultimate relaxation.QKlaipėdos 2, tel. (+370) 64 22 22
00/(+370) 64 44 32 22, www.monsier.lt. Open 10:00 -
22:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. APJ
WATER ACTIVITIES
VILNIUS KATAMARAN
Rent a luxury catamaran with an experienced captain to sail
the calm waters of the River Neris, to get a fresh perspective
of the city. It’s possible to order catering and drinks, and by
night adjust the mood lighting to different colours. There’s
a covered lower deck as well as an open-air upper deck. A
truly memorable experience for friends, family or corporate
groups.QH‑6, Upės 5, tel. (+370) 61 91 71 57, www.
vilnius-katamaran.lt.
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket Summer 2018 83
Health & Useful Addresses
A complete directory of useful contacts in Vilnius can
be found on our website at inyourpocket.com/vilnius/ DENTISTS
directory. ODONTIKA
At this professionally run clinic in Užupis you can get
a check-up for €10, cleaning for €50-65, whitening for
CLEANERS €10 per tooth, fillings at €40-140 each, extraction for €50-
JOGLĖ 80 or an implant for €550 per tooth.QK‑9, Krivių 5, tel.
The full range of dry cleaning and laundry services.QF‑8, (+370) 61 44 20 98, www.odontika.com. Open 09:00 -
J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Goštauto), tel. (+370) 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AJ
52 64 91 64/(+370) 62 01 11 77, www.jogle.lt/?lng=EN.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun, ODONTOLOGIJOS KLINIKA
Also at Gedimino 9, Mindaugo 11, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Get a check-up for around €15 and then a choice
Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama). A of cleaning, laser-whitening, fillings, extraction
or implants can follow.QI‑9, Universiteto 2/18,
tel. (+370) 52 31 29 52/(+370) 52 31 29 53, www.
COMPUTER REPAIR odontologijosklinika.lt. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed
MATRIX Sat, Sun. AJ
Hard drive recovery et al.QF‑10, Vytenio 10, tel. (+370) 52
13 45 74, www.matrix.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. A EUROPEAN UNION
EUROPEAN INFORMATION CENTRE
The local representation of the European Commission, the
CONSUMER RIGHTS European Institute for Gender Equality and the European
EUROPEAN CONSUMER CENTRE Parliament Information Office can also be found at this
A free service, the European Consumer Centre’s staff in address.QH‑8, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 52 31 31 83,
Lithuania are on hand to deal with any consumer issues www.ec.europa.eu/lietuva/eu_information_network/
people living within the EU have when in Lithuania.QI‑8, eic/index_lt.htm. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00.
Odminių 12, tel. (+370) 52 65 03 68, www.ecc.lt. Open Closed Sat, Sun. J
08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 -
15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J
FOREIGN EMBASSIES
BELARUS
LGBT QF‑10, Mindaugo 13, tel. (+370) 52 66 22 00/(+370) 52
66 22 11, fax (+370) 52 66 22 12, www.lithuania.mfa.
The websites www.lgl.lt/ gov.by/en/. Open 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:30. Closed
en and www.gayline.lt have Sat, Sun.
information about LGBT
organisations and events in CANADA
Lithuania, plus community QH‑8, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 52 49 09 50, fax (+370) 52
news, chat rooms and personal ads. Lithuania has a 49 78 65, www.lietuva.gc.ca. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Closed
poor record of limited rights for members of the LGBT Sat, Sun, Open by appointment only. J
community, but attitudes are changing. The Baltic
Pride parade takes place each June, rotating between GERMANY
the Baltic capitals and attracting a growing crowd of QF‑9, Z. Sierakausko 24, tel. (+370) 52 10 64 00, fax
several thousand people. The next one in Vilnius is (+370) 52 10 64 46, www.vilnius.diplo.de. Open 08:00 -
scheduled for 2019. 16:30, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Open for visitors
Lithuania’s lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender rights 09:00 - 12:00. Closet Sat, Sun.
association LGL is the country’s only NGO exclusively
representing the interests of the local LGBT community. IRELAND
Working for more than 20 years for advocacy, awareness Open for visitors 10:00 -12:00; 14:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
and community building, it pushes for progress in the QI‑8, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 52 62 94 60, fax (+370) 52
field of LGBT rights. The LGL office is located at Pylimo 62 94 62, www.embassyofireland.lt. J
21, which is also home to Lithuania’s only LGBT centre,
open to all well-meaning visitors wanting to know ISRAEL
more about LGBT rights here. Call ahead to let them QH‑6, Konstitucijos 7 (Europa Business Center), tel.
know you’re coming. The LGL website above has more (+370) 52 50 25 00, fax (+370) 52 50 25 55, www.
info in English on current events.QH‑10, Pylimo 21, embassies.gov.il/vilnius/Pages/default.aspx. Open
tel. (+370) 52 61 03 14, www.lgl.lt/en/. 09:30 - 17:30, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun, By
appointment.
84 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Health & Useful Addresses
RUSSIA
QC‑6, Latvių 53, tel. (+370) 52 72 38 93, www.lithuania.
mid.ru. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Open for visitors 08:15 - 11.50, 13:15 - 15:50 Mon, The best Vilnius
Tue, Thu, Fri. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun.
UK
has to offer
QL‑6, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 52 46 29 00, fax (+370)
52 46 29 01, www.gov.uk/government/world/lithuania.
Open 08:30 - 16:45, Fri 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun,
in one great app
Open for visitors 09:00 - 11:00 Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri. Closed
Wed, Sat, Sun.
USA
QG‑9, Akmenų 6, tel. (+370) 52 66 55 00, fax (+370)
52 66 55 10, www.vilnius.usembassy.gov. Open 08:00 -
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
GENEALOGY
CENTRAL REGISTRY ARCHIVE (ISTORIJOS
ARCHYVO SKYRIUS)
The entire Lithuanian civil registry archives from 1940 to
the present day, including records of all births, deaths and
marriages. To use the service, location and approximate
date are essential.QMindaugo 8, tel. (+370) 52 13 74
82, www.archyvai.lt/en/news.html. Open 08:00 - 12:00,
12:45 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 - 15:45. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
www.iyp.me/app
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
MEDICAL SERVICES
BALTIC-AMERICAN CLINIC
Highly recommended, super-modern professional health
care and diagnostics on the edge of the city, now bigger
and better than ever before.QNemenčinės 54a, tel.
(+370) 52 34 20 20/(+370) 69 85 26 55, www.bak.lt.
Open 00:00 - 00:00, Open 24hrs. APK
KARDIOLITA
A privately-run hospital with a broad range of medical
services.QA‑1, Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 52 39 05 00,
www.kardiolita.lt. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
SPECIAL INTEREST
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S ASSOCIATION OF
VILNIUS
This long-established association welcomes women from
all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian capital.
As well as organising regular events including coffee
mornings, social evenings and a book club, it hosts a
number of charitable events, such as the annual, much-
loved International Christmas Charity Bazaar in early
December.Qwww.iwavilnius.com.
Vilnius has a wide range of accommodation options in RADISSON BLU ROYAL ASTORIJA
all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in Western QJ‑10, Didžioji 35/2, tel. (+370) 52 12 01 10, fax (+370)
Europe meaning staying right in the centre is an option. 52 12 17 62, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius.
119 rooms. APXUJRWKHCDFi
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CREAM OF THE CROP
IMPERIAL HOTEL&RESTAURANT RELAIS & CHATEAUX STIKLIAI HOTEL
QJ‑10, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 52 55 33 55, fax (+370) QI‑9, Gaono 7, tel. (+370) 52 64 95 95, www.stikliai.com.
52 55 33 11, www.imperialvilnius.lt/. €135 - 450. AP €140 - 1300. APUIJR6WKHCDFi
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GRATA HOTEL
QF‑10, Vytenio 9, tel. (+370) 52 68 33 00, www.gratahotel. AIRPORT
com. 101 rooms. ATULR6WKHCDi AIRINN VILNIUS
hhh QRodūnios Kelias 8, tel. (+370) 52 32 93 04, www.airinn.
lt. 121 rooms. AILWKHDFi hhh
HOTEL TILTO
QI‑8, Tilto 8, tel. (+370) 52 10 00 21, www.hoteltilto.
com. €48 - 140. APJWKH i hhh BED & BREAKFAST
B&B FLORENS
IBIS STYLES VILNIUS QI‑11, Sodų 4, tel. (+370) 61 88 05 05, www.guesthouse.
QMinsko 14, tel. (+370) 52 03 22 82, www.ibisstylesvilnius. lt. €30 - 60. Wi
lt. €39 - 106. APTUL6WKHi hhh
BERNARDINŲ B&B HOUSE
IVOLITA VILNIUS HOTEL QJ‑9, Bernardinų 5, tel. (+370) 52 61 51 34/(+370) 65 64
QI‑11, Gėlių 5, tel. (+370) 52 64 88 33, www.ivolita.lt. 32 84, fax (+370) 52 60 84 10, www.bernardinuhouse.
€50 - 100. ALJWHi hhh com. €35 - 75 Breakfast not included. ALJ6W
BUDGET
CORNER HOTEL
QG‑10, T. Ševčenkos 16, tel. (+370) 52 10 23 61, www.
cornerhotel.lt. 146 rooms. AUL6WKHi hhh
ECOTEL VILNIUS
QI‑6, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 52 10 27 00, fax (+370) 52 10 27
07, www.ecotel.lt. €58 - 81. AULJR6WHi
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MIKOTEL
QI‑11, Pylimo 63, tel. (+370) 52 60 96 26, fax (+370) 52
Cutting-edge design at the Artagonist Art Hotel 60 96 27, www.mikotel.lt. €39 - 61. AJ6Wi hh
90 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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Street Register
A. Domaševičiaus g. G-7/8 J. Biliūno g. J-9 Naručio g. K-11/12 Subačiaus g.
A. Goštauto g. J. Galvydžio g. J-2; K-2 Naugarduko g. K/M-10; L/O-11; O-12
F-6/8; G-6/7; H-7 J. Jablonskio g. H-11 E-12; F/H-11; F-12; H-10 Suvalkų g. G-9
A. Jakšto g. H-7/8 J. Jasinskio g. F-7/8; G-8 Naujininkų g. J-12 Šv. Brunono Bonifaco g.
A. Jaroševičiaus g. I-12 J. Kubiliaus g. K-1/3 Odminių g. I-8 J-9; K-9
A. Juozapavičiaus g. I-6/7; J-7 J. Lelevelio g. H-7/8 Olimpiečių g. J-7; K-6/7 Šv. Dvasios g. J-10/11
A. Rotundo g. F-7/8; G-7 J. Ralio g. H-1 Ozo g. C/H-2; C-3; H-1; I-1 Šv. Jono g. I-9; J-9
A. Strazdelio g. J-11 J. Savickio g. G-7 P. Lukšio g. I-1; J/L-2; J-1 Šv. Mikalojaus g. I-10
A. Stulginskio g. H-8 J. Treinio g. I-2; J-2 Pakalnės g. F-8; G-8 Šv. Mykolo g. J-9
A. Volano g. J-9 J. Tumo-Vaižganto g. G-7 Pamėnkalnio g. G-8; H-8 Šv. Stepono g. H-12; I-11/12
Aguonų g. H-10/11 J. Žemaičio a. I-9 Pasažo skg. I-10; J-10 Švarco g. I-9; J-9
Aido g. K-12 Jogailos g. H-8 Paupio g. K-9/10; L-10 Švenčionių g. K-11; L-11
Akmenų g. G-8/9 K. Griniaus g. H-8 Pelesos g. Šventaragio g. I-8; J-8
Alantos g. I-2 K. Kalinausko g. G-9; H-9 I-12; J/L-11; J-12; L-12 Švitrigailos g. F-9; G-9/12
Algirdo g. G-9/11; H-11/12 K. Ladygos g. K-2/3 Pilies g. J-8/9 T. Kosciuškos g. J-7; K-6/7; L-6
Alkūnės g. J-11/12; K-12 K. Sirvydo g. I-8 Pirčiupių g. K-12 T. Ševčenkos g.
Aludarių g. G-8 K. Vanagėlio g. J-11; K-11 Plačioji g. I-10/11 E-11; F-10/11; G-10
Amatų g. G-11 K. Vasiliausko skv. H-7 Pranciškonų g. I-10 T. Vrublevskio g. I-8; J-7/8
Ankštoji g. F-7; G-7 Kaltanėnų g. I-3/4 Punsko g. H-12 Tauragnų g. I-1
Apkasų g. I-3; J-3/4 Kalvarijų g. H-7; I-1/7 Pylimo g. H-8/10; I-10/11; Tauro g. G-8; H-8/9
Arsenalo g. J-7/8 Kareivių g. I-1; J-1 J-11/12 Teatro g. H-9
Ašmenos g. I-10 Karmelitų g. I-10/11 Radvilų g. I-7/8 Tilto g. H-7; I-7/8
Augustijonų g. J-10 Kaštonų g. G-7; H-7 Raitininkų g. J-6; K-6 Trakų g. H-10; I-9/10
Aukštaičių g. J/L-10 Kauno g. F-12; G-11/12; H-11 Ramybės g. K-11/12 Trimitų g. I-4; J-4
Aukų g. G-8 Kazliškių g. I-5; J-5 Rasų g. K-11/12; L-12 Turgaus g. I-5
Aušros Vartų g. J-10/11 Kėdainių g. H-10; I-10 Ratnyčios g. H-2/3 Turgelių g. J-11/12; K-12
B. Laurinavičiaus skv. I-4 Kenos g. K-11/12 Raugyklos g. H-11; I-11 Tuskulėnų g. J-4/5; K-5/6
B. Radvilaitės g. J-8 Kernavės g. H-2/4 Rinktinės g. I-4/5; J-4/7 Tyzenhauzų g. J-12
Balstogės g. K-11; L-11 Kintų g. H-4/5 Rožių al. H-9 Ulonų g. J-2/3
Baltasis skg. K-9; L-9 Klaipėdos g. H-9; I-9 Rūdninkų g. I-10/11 Upės g. E/H-6; H-7
Bazilijonų g. I-11; J-11 Konstitucijos pr. G-5; H-5/6; I-6 Rudnios g. H-3/4 Utenos g. G-3; H-3
Benediktinių g. H-9; I-9 Kražių g. F-7; G-7 Rusų g. J-9 Užupio g. J-9; K-9
Bernardinų g. J-9 Krokuvos g. G/I-5; I-6; J-6 S. Fino g. H-5; I-5 V. Gerulaičio g. G-1; H-1
Bokšto g. J-9/10 Krosnies g. G-4 S. Skapo g. I-9; J-9 V. Kudirkos g. F-8/9; G-7/8
Ceikinių g. I-6 Kruopų g. H-11; I-11 S. Žukausko g. J-3; K-2/3; L-2 V. Mykolaičio-Putino g. G-8/9
Dainavos g. G-7/8 L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus g. I-8/9 Šaltinių g. G-11; H-11 V. Nagevičiaus g. K-2/3
Daugėliškio g. G-5; H-4/5; I-4 Labdarių g. H-8; I-8 Saracėnų g. I-4/5 V. Šopeno g. H-11; I-11/12
Didžioji g. I-10; J-9/10 Lakūnų g. J/L-1 Šatrijos g. H-4 Varšuvos g. K-12
Dominikonų g. I-9 Lapų g. J-11 Savanorių pr. Vasario 16-osios g. G-7/8; H-7
Drujos g. J/L-11; L-10; M-9/10 Latako g. J-9 C-12; D-11/12; E-10/11; F-9/10 Vašingtono a. G-7
Dubingių g. H-2/4 Liepkalnio g. J-11/12; K-12 Savičiaus g. J-10 Veprių g. H-4/5
Durpių g. H-2/3 Ligoninės g. I-10/11 Šeimyniškių g. I/K-6 Verkių g. I-3/4; J-1/3
Etmonų g. I-10; J-10 Literatų g. J-9 Seinų g. I-12; J-12 Vilniaus g. H-7/8
Gaono g. I-9 Lukiškių g. F-6; G-6/7 Šermukšnių g. G-7; H-7 Vingrių g. H-10; I-10
Gedimino Baravyko g. Lukiškių skg. F-6/7; G-7 Šiaudinės g. G-4/5 Visų Šventųjų g. I-11
F-5; G-5/6 Lvovo g. G-5; H-5/6 Šiaulių g. I-10 Vokiečių g. I-9/10
Gedimino pr. F-7; G/I-8; G-7 Lydos g. H-10; I-10 Šiltadaržio g. J-8/9 Vytenio g. F-9/11; G-11/12
Geležinio Vilko g. C-11/12; M. Antokolskio g. I-9/10 Šilutės g. H-4/5; I-3/4 Žemaitijos g. H-10; I-10
D-9/11; E-9; F-3/9; G-1/4 M. Daukšos g. J-11; K-11 Širvintų g. H-2/4 Žirmūnų g. K-5; L-1/5
Geležinkelio g. H/J-12; J-11 M. Katkaus g. J-4; K-4 Slucko g. I-6 Žiupronių g. K-10/11
Gėlių g. I-11 M. Valančiaus g. F-9; G-9 Sluškų g. K-6/7; L-6 Žvejų g. H/J-7
Gervėčių g. K-11; L-11 Maironio g. J-8/10; K-10 Sniego g. I-12; J-12 Žydų g. I-9/10
Giedraičių g. H-3/5; I-2/3 Maišiagalos g. I-2/3 Sodų g. I-11/12 Žygimanto Liauksmino g. I-8
Gudų g. I-12; J-12 Malūnų g. J-9; K-9 Sporto g. J-6; K-6 Žygimantų g. H/J-7; J-8
H. Manto g. I-4 Marijampolės g. G-12; H-12 Stadiono g. J-12; K-12 Žygio g. J-2/4
Išganytojo g. J-9 Mečetės g. G-6 Stasio Vainiūno g. K-7
Islandijos g. H-8/9 Mielagėnų g. K-11 Stiklių g. I-9/10; J-10
J. Basanavičiaus g. F/H-9; H-10 Mindaugo g. G-9; H-9/12 Stoties g. I-12