CHEMEKETAN CLIMB PROSPECTUS

Mt Shuksan
Climb Date: July 25-27, 2008 Leader: John Petrie
Route: Fisher Chimneys Co-Leader: Jess Palacios
Max. Elevation: 9,131’
Elevation Gain: 4,431’
Round Trip Distance: ~12 Miles

Chemeketan Rating: M2+

Technical Difficulty: Glacier travel, steep snow/ice between 35-50 degrees, technical mixed climbing 5.2-5.3,
routefinding, altitude

Driving Directions:

For those meeting at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride, the address is: 1100 Airport Rd SE, Salem, Oregon 97301

From Salem: Drive north on I-5 to Bellingham, Washington. Drive State Route 542 from Bellingham to the Mt. Baker
ski area. Continue on gravel road about 1.5 miles to the parking lot at Austin Pass. Hike trail #600 to Lake Ann (2.5
miles to junction. Keep left and travel 1.5 miles to lake). Here we will establish our camp.

Route Description:

“From the lake, follow a trail 1.5 miles E to the first large talus slope at 5,200’. Just past a small gorge, and near the
Lower Curtis Glacier, cross talus to gain a right-trending gully (don’t take the R handed path down to the glacier.)
Follow the gully for 300’ to a knoll, and then traverse across talus to the base of the chimneys. Start up the route
next to a large boulder, close to the face. From there, follow a step R gully-chimney ascent for 600’. Near the top of
Shuksan Arm the gully forks. The R hand grassy gully leads over a chockstone and on up to a notch. From the notch
you can traverse the south side of a ridge to the top of Winnie’s Slide, avoiding the ice pitch. A L hand gully goes
straight up to Shuksan Arm, from where you can traverse above the White Salmon Glacier east to Winnie’s Slide and
one pitch of ice. Then climb the L side of the Upper Curtis Glacier to below the Hourglass, traverse south and descend
to the start of Hell’s Highway. Ascend this broad chute up onto the Sulphide Glacier, then climb the glacier to the
base of the summit pinnacle. A good finish is to go up the SE corner of the summit pyramid. The climbing is
enjoyable low 5th class and avoids rockfall from climbers in the gully leading directly to the summit.” (from Classic
Climbs of the Northwest)

Itinerary:
Date Time
July 25 5:00 am Leave State Motor Pool Park & Ride. Grab “Subway” sandwich somewhere in Washington
12:00 pm Arrive at Lake Ann TH #600
12:30 Depart TH
3:00 Arrive at Lake Ann and setup camp. Recon hike to identify route sometime before dinner
July 26 4:00 am Start climb. Traverse over rock and snow towards the base of Fisher Chimneys
6:30 Arrive at Chimneys. Start climbing 3-4th class rock unroped
8:30 Top out and gear up for glacier travel. Ascend mixed snow and rock to Winnie’s slide. Ascend
steep snow or ice to 50 degrees. More mixed climbing above Winnie’s Slide until we reach
a moat that we must cross to gain the Upper Curtis Glacier.
10:30 Arrive at Hells Highway. Ascend steep snow to 45 degrees to Sulphide Glacier. Continue on
to summit pinnacle. We will likely climb the pinnacle unroped.
1:00 pm Arrive at summit
1:30 Depart summit. Downclimb or rappel pinnacle. Descend climbing route.
Before Dark Arrive back at camp. This could easily be a 15+ hour day.
July 27 8:00 am Depart camp. Hike out ~2 hours
6:00 pm Arrive State Motor Pool Park & Ride

Shuksan Fisher Chimneys - Prospectus 2008 - Page 1 of 3

Required Equipment Checklist:
Unless otherwise noted, the following equipment is required for participation on this climb. The checklist below lists
the minimum items you will need and should be used as a guide only. Each climber is responsible for their own gear.

Ten Essentials: Navigation - Map & Compass (GPS if available)

Sun Protection – Sunscreen, Lip Balm, and Sunglasses
Insulation - Extra Clothing
Illumination - Headlamp w/ Extra Batteries
First-Aid Supplies
Fire - Fire Starter/Waterproof Matches/Lighter
Repair Kit & Tools – incl. Knife, Whistle
Nutrition - Extra Food
Hydration – Extra Water
Emergency Shelter - Emergency Tarp/Space Blanket/Bivouac Gear
Additional Items: Wool Cap/Hat
Sun Hat/Bandana
Layered Clothing – No Cotton
Gloves/Mittens + Extras
Waterproof Jacket/Pants
Mountaineering Boots – Leather or Synthetic + Gaiters
Crampons – Fit to Boots Prior to Climb. NO ALUMINUM CRAMPONS
Ice Axe
Helmet
Camping Gear – Tent or bivy, Stove (extra fuel), Water Filter, Bag/Pad, etc.
Climbing Harness w/ Prusiks (2-3), Carabiners (2 lockers + 2 extras)
Glacier Rescue Gear – 1 pulley, 2 short runners (4-5’), Cordelette
Belay/Rappel Device
3-4 Liters of Water
Trekking Poles (optional)
Radios (optional) – set to 10/5 or 11/6 (TBD)
Snow Shovel (optional)
Other Personal Items as Necessary
Team Gear: Rope(s), Slings, Rock Pro, Rap Rings, Pickets/Ice Screws, Radios, Wands

Reference/Maps:
Beckey, Fred, Cascade Alpine Guide 3: Rainy Pass to Fraser River, (The Mountaineers, 2000), pp. 61-65
Kearney, Alan, Classic Climbs of the Northwest, (Alpenbooks, 2002)
SummitPost.org - http://www.summitpost.org/route/155674/fisher-chimneys.html
Visit my website at: www.RhinoAscents.blogspot.com for updated information, links, & weather.

MAPS: USGS 7.5 Minute Series, Mt Shuksan, WA, Green Trails Map #14;
National Geographic, 7.5 Minute Series, North Cascades National Park, Last Revision 1999

Emergency Contacts:
Mt Baker Ranger District: 360-856-5700, ext 515; Marblemount Ranger Station: 360-873-4590, ext 37

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS

1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident
or illness.

2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.

3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately
prepared for the climb.

Additional Comments:
Please notify the leader if you are NOT meeting the group at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride. We will be leaving at
5:00am sharp. In case of inclement weather, the final decision to cancel the climb will be made by Thursday evening,
July 24, before 4:00pm. The climb will not be rescheduled this year. Contact leader for further information. John
Petrie 503-910-9041
Shuksan Fisher Chimneys - Prospectus 2008 - Page 2 of 3