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the

koreantable
FROM BARBECUE TO BIBIMBAP 100 EASY-TO-PREPARE RECIPES

5BFLZVOH$IVOH
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1IPUPHSBQIZCZ)FBUI3PCCJOT

Tuttle Publishing
Tokyo • Rutland,Vermont • Singapore
Note: This book does not provide medical advice and its recom-
mendations are not substitutes for medical care. The foods and
preparations presented in this book are safe and healthy for most
individuals. Yet, new or unusual foods may cause adverse reactions
in some individuals. If you have any questions about potential food
allergies or other adverse effects, you should consult your physician.

All the photographs in this book were taken by Heath Robbins,


except for the photograph of kimchi on page 19, which was provided
by Periplus Publishing.

Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.,

www.tuttlepublishing.com

Copyright © 2008 Taekyung Chung and Debra Samuels

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced


or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and
retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publisher. To my mother, my husband Pyung
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Hee Han and my brother-in-law,
Chung, Taekyung. Choong Suh Park
The Korean table : from barbecue to bibimbap / Taekyung –Taekyung Chung
Chung and Debra Samuels ; photographs by Heath
Robbins. — 1st ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
1. Cookery, Korean. I. Samuels, Debra. II. Title.
TX724.5.K65C596 2008
641.59519—dc22 To my husband Dick, for a lifetime
2008013576 of love and adventure
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0529-4 (ebook) – Debra Samuels

Distributed by

North America, Latin America & Europe


Tuttle Publishing
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First edition
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TUTTLE PUBLISHING® is a registered trademark of Tuttle Publishing,


a division of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

koreantable©Mar10.indd 4 3/17/10 10:15:50 AM


37 Chapter 1
Starters & Snacks
Roasted Seaweed Wafers 38
Crudité Platter with Spicy Miso Dip 39
Stir-fried Vegetable Matchsticks 39
Korean Dumplings 40
Nine Treasure Roll-Ups 42
Glazed Hard-Boiled Eggs, Walnuts and Hot
Peppers 44
Sweet and Salty Glazed Soybeans 45
Cucumbers Stuffed with Beef, Peppers and
Mushrooms 47
Seafood Pancakes 48

contents
Seafood and Green Onion Pancakes 49
Zucchini and Onion Pancakes 50
Potato and Basil Pancakes 51
Kimchi Pancakes 52
Washi-Covered Eggs and Lucky Pennies: Asparagus Fritters 53
How this Book Came to Be 9 Corn Fritters 54
From Barbecue to Bibimbap: An Introduction Medley of Vegetable Fritters 55
to Enjoying Korean Food 12
The Ingredients: Stocking Your Korean
Pantry 16
57 Chapter 2
Salads, Kimchi & Sides
Tender Greens with Fresh Herbs and Pine Nut
27 The Basics
Your Starter Kit for
Mustard Dressing 58
Cucumber and Grilled Eggplant 59
Korean Cooking Seasoned Shredded Leeks 60
White Rice 28 Pickled Pearl Onions 61
Brown Rice 28 Fresh Tuna Sashimi and Rice Salad 62
Roasted Sesame Seeds 29 Seafood Salad with Pine Nut Mustard
Crushed Roasted Sesame Seeds 29 Dressing 63
Garlic Paste 29 Asparagus Salad 64
Seasoned Red Pepper Paste 30 Seaweed and Cucumber Salad 65
Soy Dipping Sauce 30 Daikon Radish Kimchi 66
Simple Sweet Soy Base Sauce 30 Cabbage Kimchi 67
Sweet Soy Base Sauce 31 Cucumber Kimchi 67
Kimchi Paste 31 Seasoned Daikon Radish 68
Tangy Red Pepper Sauce 32 Seasoned Bean Sprouts 68
Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce 32 Seasoned Eggplant 69
Spicy Miso Dip 33 White Kimchi 70
Pine Nut Mustard Dressing 33 Seasoned Cucumbers with Sesame Seeds 72
Chicken Stock 34 Seasoned Carrots 73
Beef Stock 34 Seasoned Spinach 73
Vegetable Stock 35 Seasoned Spicy Cucumbers 73

6 the korean table

001-015_Frontmatter.indd 6 2/27/09 5:46:04 PM


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DPOUFOUT 
Washi-Covered Eggs
and Lucky Pennies
How this Book Came to Be

Everyone has a food story. My taste buds and I grew up in 1960s


America. My mother made simple fare—broiled steaks and
chops with sides of vegetables and baked potatoes, and a slice
of homemade chocolate cake. My mother was a good cook, but
the most daring spice in our cabinet was paprika, and the food
was lightly seasoned with just a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
There were Italian and Chinese restaurants in the neighborhood,
but both were stripped of their authenticity to accommodate the
still unsophisticated palate of Americans.
In the early 1970s I went to Japan, and everything changed.
I’d learned Japanese, but knew nothing of the cuisine. Looking
back, I now realize that this was when my taste buds awoke. The Story of this Book
Living with Japanese families and sharing home cooked meals It all started with a seed, or in this case an egg. Doesn’t
stimulated a lifelong love affair with Japanese food, which everything? Taekyung and I met in 1992 in Tokyo, where we
eventually led me to Korean cuisine and working on this were both living as ex-pats—she from Seoul and I from Boston.
collection of recipes. We were taking an Indian cooking class. At the end of one
As a young girl Taekyung helped her mother prepare session, Taekyung volunteered to teach all the students how to
gorgeous feasts for the many guests that would come into make Easter eggs covered in beautiful Japanese washi paper. A
their home. Over the years she absorbed the techniques, year later I returned home to Boston with my bowl of eggs and
recipes, folklore and soul of Korean cooking as well as a love warm memories. Taekyung went back to Korea. Over time we
for entertaining. lost contact, but in our own kitchens, we were each cooking,
After graduating from college she found a job at the Korean teaching and writing about food.
Embassy in Japan. Living in Japan opened up a world of new Fast-forward to 2005. My husband Dick and I were living in
cuisines to her. She enthusiastically began to absorb as much Tokyo again, spending our ninth year in Japan. I ran into Korean-
as she could about the food of many cultures, which influenced born Daniel Joon Roh, one of my husband’s former political
her creative preparation of Korean cuisine. Taekyung’s dazzling science students, and our conversation naturally turned to the
recipes created many devotees among friends, family and delicious Korean food in Japan that is owed to the proximity of
associates, and as the interest in her cooking style grew she the two countries, their shared history, and the many Koreans
soon found herself offering cooking classes. Her brother-in- who call Japan home. In my tiny Tokyo kitchen, I began cooking
law helped her open a professional cooking studio in Tokyo, to dishes from a Korean cookbook Joon sent me. Later, we set
the delight of many. To reach yet a wider audience she wrote a date for dinner at a very chic Korean restaurant in Tokyo’s
cookbooks in Japanese. Now, with this cookbook, Taekyung is fashionable Ginza district. Joon wanted to introduce me to the
excited to share her contemporary take on traditional Korean Korean cooking teacher and author who helped to design its
recipes with a new audience. menu, who turned out to be Taekyung!

preface 9

001-015_Frontmatter.indd 9 2/26/09 4:38:04 PM


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 the korean table

001-015_Frontmatter.indd 10 7/2/08 9:17:46 AM


QSFGBDF 
From Barbecue to Bibimbap
An Introduction to Enjoying Korean Food

In January 2008, while finishing up work on this book, I Seoul, Korea is extremely cold in the wintertime—I had been
visited Seoul with two friends. The trip put everything into warned by my Korean friends—but the temperature was no
context—all of the cooking classes I’d taken with Taekyung deterrent to the hundreds of vendors in the outdoor markets
in Japan and the three intensive weeks of daily shopping and and street stalls selling all kinds of food, spices, herbs, roots
recipe testing back home—making kimchi, peeling garlic, and housewares. There were red pepper powder mountains,
turning every vegetable in sight into namul or whipping up miles of fresh fish strung together by yellow plastic cord, barrel
a quick pancake. Walks through the traditional markets and after barrel of dozens of varieties of kimchi, and an ocean-full of
one-stop modern supermarkets revealed that old and new still seaweed in every form imaginable.
coexist. The miniature mountains of prepared kimchi sold in I also had a chance to sample food based on the refined
huge see-through plastic bags was evidence that it is still an imperial court cuisine of the Joseon Dynasty (1390s–1910) at
important part of the Korean diet but not everyone is making it The Korea House, a slightly touristy restaurant cum performance
at home. While some Koreans still bury clay pots in rural yards, center cum wedding hall. There hasn’t been a Korean imperial
the pungent odors have given rise to separate refrigerators in household since the early 1900s but the recipes lasted and
apartments, which also helps to keep the temperature constant, became part of the Korean diet.
and well-designed containers with airtight seals. The terrific food at The Korea House made it all come alive.
The meal was an endless assortment of dishes that crowded
the entire surface of our low table, many of which I’d become
familiar with from working alongside Taekyung. Kujeolpan
appetizer (page 42), Jeyook Kalbi Chim (page 98) and Sweet
and Creamy Pumpkin Porridge (page 152), all in this book, were
also part of the meal. We sat on a toasty warm floor (ondol)—
the traditional method of heating still used in homes as well as
commercial establishments.
Then there was the hearty fare we found in the street stalls.
Grannies were cooking piles of pancakes stuffed with seafood,
kimchi and green onions (pages 48–52). There were little fritters
of vegetables like zucchini, pumpkin and sweet potato (page
55). The ultimate street snack, tteokbokki—chewy rice cake
sticks simmered in a bath of sweet and spicy red sauce—could
be found everywhere. Cauldrons of steaming Korean sausages
(soondae) filled with clear vermicelli noodles bubbled alongside
porcine organ meat. Hungry shoppers speared bits of these
delicious foods while standing and chatting with friends.

12 the korean table

001-015_Frontmatter.indd 12 2/26/09 4:38:22 PM


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001-015_Frontmatter.indd 14 7/1/08 3:50:31 PM


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JOUSPEVDUJPO 

001-015_Frontmatter.indd 15 7/1/08 3:50:32 PM


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016-025_Ingredients.indd 16 7/1/08 4:45:20 PM


Baby Bok Choy glass jars. A spoonful is dropped into boiling
water to make a soothing tea.
Chungkyongchae 㼃ἓ㺚
Baby bok choy is a vegetable that comes in
small bundles of about seven light greenish Coarse Red Pepper Flakes
white stalks with deep green leaves. It has a Gochu Garu ἶ㿪Ṗ⬾
celery-like crunch and mild cabbage like fla-
These Korean chili flakes are made from long
vor. More tender than the larger variety, they
thin red peppers that are dried and then pro-
can be used whole or halved and need only a
cessed into a variety of textures. The coarse
brief cooking. Braise them or use in stir-fries
texture is used as a garnish, spice and to
or soups. Very young baby bok choy can be
make a variety of pastes, sauces and dress-
eaten raw.
ings. You can find Korean coarse red chili
pepper flakes at Asian or Korean markets and
Black Rice online. Sometimes the pepper flakes may be
referred to as a “powder” on the packaging,
Heukmi 䦧⹎ but you’ll be able to recognize the flakes by
Also known as “forbidden rice,” this short- their coarse texture, which is similar in ap-
grain rice, pictured in the middle (left) in the pearance to Italian red pepper flakes. This
photograph on page 26, has a nutty flavor. ingredient is one of the “must-haves” that
When soaked the water turns a deep purple. cannot be substituted with another type of
This rice is often combined with other rice red pepper.
such as white and brown rice. The soaking
liquid is used for cooking the rice and turns
the dish a pretty rosy hue. Cucumbers Korean Coarse Red Pepper Flakes

Oi 㡺㧊
Chili Peppers Cucumbers in Korea are thinner and smaller
Gochu ἶ㿪 in length and diameter and have an edible
skin. They are not usually peeled and can be
The reputation Korean food has for being
braised, stuffed or made into pickles. The
spicy is well earned. Both red and green hot
mini cucumber, sometimes called “baby”
chilies are used fresh and dried. Capsaicin oil
cucumbers, the Japanese cucumber and
is what gives the chili its firepower. Red chil-
Armenian varieties are perfect substitutes.
ies are dried and made into pastes, flakes,
They are usually found about 4 to 6 to a pack-
powders and strands. Korean markets sell
age. The Armenian cucumber is technically
boxes of plastic gloves for protection when
a gourd, but tastes like a cucumber. If these
making kimchi or other dishes that are best
are not available the much larger English (hot
hand-mixed.
house) cucumbers also have an edible skin
and can be substituted in most of the recipes.
Citron Honey If you use English cucumbers, which can be
more than 12 inches (30 cm) in length, you
Yoojacha 㥶㧦㹾 should use approximately one-quarter of
Yooja in Korean or yuzu in Japanese is a small an English cucumber to one 6-inch (15-cm)
hard round Asian citrus loaded with tiny pits. mini cucumber. (This amount should give
It is prized for its rind, as much as its juice. you about 1/2 cup/75 g chopped cucumber.)
The rind is used to add an aromatic element If you use the large English cucumbers, you
to both savory and sweet dishes. Yooja should seed them. Small pickling cucumbers,
honey has strips of rind suspended in a thick such as Kirby’s, have tough skins and cannot
honey and sugar mixture and is sold in large be substituted.

the ingredients: stocking your korean pantry 17

016-025_Ingredients.indd 17 2/26/09 4:23:05 PM


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016-025_Ingredients.indd 18 7/2/08 9:25:57 AM


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UIFJOHSFEJFOUTTUPDLJOHZPVSLPSFBOQBOUSZ 

016-025_Ingredients.indd 19 7/1/08 7:06:46 PM


Leeks

Miso (back) and Red Pepper Paste (front)

sprouts. The best kimchi will be found in an Miso


Asian grocery. This ready-made kind is used
in many of the recipes in this book. Find a Doenjang ♲㧻
brand you like and keep a large jar on hand Commonly known by its Japanese name in
in the refrigerator. Kimchi is also sometimes the United States, miso is made from soy-
spelled kim chi, kimchee or kimch’i. beans that have been cooked, pulverized,
fermented and aged. The paste is used in
soups, sauces, dips and for coating fish, veg-
Leeks etables and meat prior to cooking. There are
Daepa ╖䕢 many types of miso that can range from mild
with a light tawny gold color (white miso) to
Leeks are mild members of the onion fam-
an intense dark burgundy (red miso) with a
ily. They have long thick white bodies with
strong aroma and salty taste.
tough outer green leaves. They retain a great
deal of dirt and must be washed thoroughly Korean miso (doenjang) is made with a
before using. They are split down the middle slightly different fermentation process and
and rinsed under running water. Leeks are added ingredients that make even the mild
often used in soups and stews and prized ones more intensely flavored than their
for their mild flavor. In Korean cooking, raw Japanese counterparts. Many of the Korean
leeks are cut into very fine thin matchstick misos come in opaque plastic containers,
strips and used as a condiment with certain making it difficult to identify the miso by color
dishes. When cooking with leeks, remove the or texture. To identify milder Korean miso,
outermost green leaves. If you are using leeks make sure that “doenjang” is the only word
raw, remove all the green leaves, which are for miso on the label. Korean miso can be
tougher than the inner white body. found online or in Asian groceries. Another
variety is country-style doenjang, which is
even stronger.

20 the korean table

016-025_Ingredients.indd 20 3/4/09 2:06:01 PM


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016-025_Ingredients.indd 21 7/1/08 4:46:09 PM


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*UEPFTOPUOFFEUPCFSFDPOTUJUVUFEUPCF

 the korean table

016-025_Ingredients.indd 22 7/1/08 4:46:21 PM


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UIFJOHSFEJFOUTTUPDLJOHZPVSLPSFBOQBOUSZ 

016-025_Ingredients.indd 23 8/29/08 3:48:36 PM


Soybean Sprouts (left) and Mung Bean
Sprouts (right)
flour. The liquid by-product ages for about The soybean sprout is sprouted from the
two years before being used. Both Korean soybean and has a large crunchy head. It
and Japanese soy sauces can be used in Ko- must be cooked for at least 10 minutes before
rean cooking, though Korean soy sauce tends consuming. Mung bean sprouts and soybean
to be less salty than Japanese soy sauce. sprouts are not usually interchangeable.
Brands differ in the amount of sodium they However, if you are unable to locate soybean
contain. In this book we use easy-to-find low- sprouts you can substitute them with mung
sodium Japanese soy sauce because its salt bean sprouts, but be sure to reduce the
level makes it closer to authentic Korean soy amount of cooking time to about 2 minutes.
sauce. It has between 20 and 30 percent less
sodium than regular Japanese soy sauce. Soy
sauce is a key ingredient in marinades, dress-
Squid
ing and sauces as well as in stir-fries. Ojingeoh 㡺㰫㠊
Along with octopus and cuttle fish, squid is
a member of the cephalopod family and is
Soybean Sprouts and an invertebrate with an internal shell. Squid
Mung Bean Sprouts has a flat head and long smooth body with
Kongnamul and Sookjoo Namul tentacles (arms) trailing from the bottom.
Both the flesh and tentacles have a mild
䆿⋮ⶒGandG㑯㭒⋮ⶒ flavor and, when cooked quickly, a pleasantly
Mung bean sprouts are widely used in Asian chewy texture. Most fish stores and seafood
cuisines, and particularly in Chinese cook- counters at supermarkets sell squid that
ing. Known most commonly in the United has been cleaned with the white body and
States as simply “bean sprouts,” mung bean tentacles already separated. You can also find
sprouts are easy to find in grocery stores. them cleaned and frozen. If you are purchas-
Sprouted from the mung bean, they have ing the whole squid you will need to clean
long thin bodies with a light flavor and nice and separate the body from the tentacles.
crunch. They can be eaten raw, but are often To do this, hold down the head with the side
cooked very briefly to retain their crunch. of knife and pull the body away. The head,
Koreans use them in salads and soups. internal organs, ink sac and tentacles are at-

24 the korean table

016-025_Ingredients.indd 24 2/26/09 4:23:12 PM


tached. Cut the tentacles away from the head tofu found in a clear plastic tube. This is used
and reserve. Discard the head and organs. for making the famous hot pot, sundubu. It
Peel the purple membrane from the body and is also in dressings and smoothies. Tofu is
discard it. Reach into the body, remove the now available in most supermarkets and the
clear plasticlike shell and discard it. quality has gotten much better recently. If you
The skin is often scored to help make it have the opportunity to get fresh tofu from an
tender and attractive as squid tends to curl Asian grocer we recommend that you try this.
when it is cooked. You must change the water every day or so
as tofu can go off very quickly.

Sweet Brown Rice


Hyunmi Chapssal 䡚⹎㺏㕖 Udon Noodles
Sweet brown rice, pictured in the middle Udon 㤆☯
(right) in the photograph on page 26, is the Udon noodles are made from wheat and
unpolished grain that still has the bran layer water. They are white, thick and most often
intact. It is used in making sweet dishes or round in shape. They are used in soups and
rice balls. It is sometimes referred by its Japa- have a chewy but smooth texture. They are
nese name genmai. commonly available dried in the U.S., but
fresh udon can be found in the refrigerator (or Somen Noodles (top) and Korean Vermicelli,
or Cellophane, Noodles (bottom)
freezer) sections in Asian groceries.
Sweet Glutinous Rice
Chapssal 㺏㕖
Sweet rice, pictured to the far right in the
Vermicelli or
photograph on page 26, is a short-grain rice. Cellophane Noodles
This small opaque white rice is described as Dangmyun ╏Ⳋ
glutinous due to its sticky texture—not because
Dried Korean vermicelli are grayish noodles
it contains any gluten. Rice is naturally gluten-
made from sweet potato starch. They are sold
free. It is used to make sweet and savory dish-
in bunches in packages almost 24 inches
es and can be combined with other rices. The
(61 cm) long. When set in boiling water they
consistency of the rice when cooked is chewy.
become translucent and are sometimes called
It is sometimes also referred to by its Japanese
“glass” or cellophane noodles. They are used
name mochi gome.
in the Korean noodle dish called Japchae.

Tofu
Dubu ⚦⿖
Wood Ear or Black Fungus
This high-protein soy product is most com-
Mogi Bohseot ⳿㧊⻚㎅
monly known by its Japanese name tofu. It Also called Cloud Ear, these thin rufflelike
is made from soaking, crushing and heat- dried fungi need to be reconstituted in water
ing dried soybeans. The milky by-product is before they can be cooked. They have a slick
solidified by adding a natural coagulant that surface and crunchy texture with a deep
comes from boiling down seawater. Tofu, the green-black color. Wood Ear is often used
perfect food for a vegetarian or vegan, can be in stir-fries and soups, where they provide
made into main dishes or added to soups and a wonderful texture and tend to absorb the
stews. Fresh tofu comes in two styles: soft or taste of the sauces they are being cooked in.
silken tofu, used mainly in soups and salads; They come in cellophane packages and can be
and firm tofu, used in stir-fries and fillings. stored at room temperature. Once reconsti-
Korean grocers also carry a soft custardlike tuted, they need to be refrigerated.

the ingredients: stocking your korean pantry 25

016-025_Ingredients.indd 25 3/6/09 3:48:14 PM


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026-035_Basics.indd 26 6/26/08 10:46:09 AM


the basics

your starter kit


for korean cooking
We like to think of this collection of recipes and tips as your Korean cooking “Starter Kit.”
It contains the building blocks essential to making and serving delicious easy-to-prepare
Korean meals—including plain steamed rice that accompanies most meals; delicious sauces,
pastes and dressings that give Korean food its special pungent flavor; and subtle stocks that
are the basis of many soups, hot pots and porridges in this book.
Sauces and pastes are some of the most important elements in Korean cuisine. They are
part of every dish, whether for cooking, seasoning or dipping. You can reduce your cooking
time greatly by preparing basic sauces and key ingredients such as garlic paste in advance.
Taekyung spent a few hours putting together large quantities of the sauces that are used in the
dishes in this book. When she was done, all we had to do was dip a measuring cup or spoon
into the jar and add the sauce to the recipes.
We recommend that you turn on your favorite music, get into a “sauce zone” and make
the quantities suggested. When your pantry and refrigerator are stocked with these sauces
and pastes, cooking from this book will be a breeze. Have on hand large glass jars, food
storage bags or plastic containers and keep these basic sauces, dressings, and pastes in the
refrigerator. Most will keep for months.
If you don’t have time to make the full amount of the sauces and pastes, we’ve offered “mini”
recipes that yield a single-use amount sufficient for all of the recipes in the book.
Homemade stocks, the foundation of many recipes in this book, are very easy to make and can
be stored in the refrigerator or frozen. Chicken and beef stocks benefit from an overnight stay in
the refrigerator. The fat released by the beef and chicken congeals and is easy to remove for a
virtually fat-free soup.
If you’re too pressed for time to make your own stock, there are many good meat, chicken and
vegetable stocks available in markets today. Try to find one that is low in sodium and organic,
if possible. Bouillon cubes are fine in a pinch but have a high-sodium content. You may need
to adjust the seasoning when using them.

Left: Short-grain rice, black rice, sweet brown rice, sweet (glutinous) rice

026-035_Basics.indd 27 2/27/09 5:48:54 PM


White Rice medium heat for 10 minutes. Turn the heat down
to low and simmer for an additional 10 minutes, or
Hin Bap 䧆⹻ until the rice is tender. Turn the heat off and let the
Short-grain rice or rice products are a part of almost rice sit covered for 10 minutes more.
all Korean meals. White rice is eaten on its own
and it is often mixed with short-grain brown rice
or other grains for a nourishing boost. The rice to Brown Rice
water ratio for short-grain rice is about 1 cup rice Hyunmi Bap 䡚⹎⹻
(200 g) to 1 cup (250 ml) water. Preparation is the
Although not as popular as white rice, brown rice
key to turning out a perfect bowl of rice. The rice is
is gaining ground. Essentially brown rice is unpol-
rinsed to remove starch, soaked, and thoroughly
ished white rice. The outer layer of bran is left intact
drained to aid in the absorption of water for softer
along with most of the nutrients that are stripped
grains. Rice can be cooked on the stovetop or in an
away when refining. It has a nutty taste and takes a
electric rice cooker.
longer time to cook than white rice. A good way to
Taekyung demonstrated the traditional method introduce brown rice is to mix it with white rice.
for measuring rice by laying her hand flat, palm-
side down on top of the rice. If the water came just Makes approximately 3 cups (480 g)
up to her wrist she knew there was enough water. cooked rice
This method still works but rice cookers come with 1 cup (200 g) short-grain brown rice
water levels etched into the bowl of the cooker. 2 cups (500 ml) water
You will be surprised at how closely the old and
new match up. Instructions may vary with rice In a large bowl, add the rice and fill with cold run-
cookers but we recommend that at a minimum you ning water. With your hand, swish the rice around
rinse, soak and drain your rice before cooking. and drain the water. Fill the bowl of rice with water
Rice cookers come with their own measuring to cover. Let soak for 1 hour. Pour the rice in a
cups that are between 160 and 180 milliliters. An sieve and set it aside to drain for 10 minutes.
American cup is about 250 milliliters. If you’re us- In a medium saucepan, combine the rice and the
ing a rice cooker it is a good idea to use the cup 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to
that comes with it and to follow manufacturer’s low, and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook the rice
directions. For convenience and consistent results, for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the rice is tender.
a rice cooker is a worthwhile investment. If you’re Turn the heat off and let the rice sit covered
making rice on the stovetop, the following propor- 10 minutes more.
tions and directions will give you perfect rice.

Makes approximately 51/2 cups (900 g)


cooked rice Rice Any Time Taekyung showed me how to have fresh cooked rice on hand and
2 cups (400 g) short-grain white rice ready in just minutes. Make double or even triple the amount of rice you need for a
2 cups (500 ml) water meal. If you are using a rice cooker, as soon as the rice is done, fluff it with a paddle and
separate into 1 cup (185 g) serving sizes. While the rice is still hot, take a piece of plastic
In a large bowl, add the rice and fill with cold run- wrap and put a portion of the rice in the middle of the wrap. Fold the wrap lightly around
ning water. With your hand, swish the rice around, the rice and fold it into a rice pillow. Place the rice pillows in a resealable plastic bag,
and then carefully drain the water into the sink. label them with the date, and freeze for later use. When you are ready to use the rice,
Repeat this several times until the water runs clear. remove it from the freezer and place it directly into the microwave for approximately 3
Fill the bowl of rice with water to cover. Set aside minutes or longer if necessary. If you do not wish to microwave the rice in the plastic
for 20 minutes; the rice will become white and wrap, place the rice in a microwave-able bowl. Sprinkle on a few drops of water and
plump. Pour the rice in a sieve and set it aside to cover with a paper towel or parchment paper and microwave for 3 minutes.
drain for 10 minutes.
In a medium saucepan, combine the rice and the
2 cups of water. Cover with a lid. Cook the rice over

28 the korean table

026-035_Basics.indd 28 2/27/09 5:50:54 PM


Roasted Sesame Seeds Place the sesame seeds into the bowl of a food
processor and pulse 6 to 8 times until the seeds Tips for Preparing and
Tongkkae 䐋₾ are crushed but not made into a paste. Or use a Storing Garlic Garlic is a
You can buy plastic 8-1/2-ounce (240-g) jars of mortar and pestle to crush the seeds by hand. quintessential ingredient in Korean
roasted sesame seeds at most Asian grocers. The Store the seeds in an airtight container in the re- cuisine, which is good news for
sesame seeds manufactured by Korean companies frigerator for 2 months. garlic lovers. Although peeled and
are roasted longer and are crunchier than others. minced garlic or garlic paste is
You can use these without reroasting. If you have
Garlic Paste available in the refrigerated sec-
raw or a Japanese brand of roasted sesame seeds tion of most produce departments
we recommend that you reroast them to bring out Dajin Manul ┺㰚Ⱎ⓮
in supermarkets, we recommend
the robust flavors of extra-roasted sesame seeds— Garlic paste is the most common form used in the you buy fresh garlic and prepare it
a signature flavor of Korean cooking. This method recipes in this book. It has a more intense flavor by hand. Taekyung, the native gar-
is called dry roasting. It is simple and the flavor that than minced garlic and its texture allows it to blend lic expert in this team, doesn’t like
results is worth the extra step. smoothly into sauces. You can achieve this consis- the additives often found in these
tency by very finely mincing garlic that has been products to keep them fresh. She
Makes 1 cup (120 g) run through a garlic press or by putting peeled also finds that this garlic some-
1 cup (120 g) raw or preroasted (nonKorean) garlic cloves into a food processor. Minced garlic times has an acrid flavor and that
sesame seeds is called for in recipes when the smooth texture there is a taste difference between
of paste isn’t required; however, you can always the preprepared and fresh garlic.
Place a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the use garlic paste in place of minced garlic if you Thankfully Taekyung has some
sesame seeds. Reduce the heat to low and let the have some on hand. It can be kept in a jar in the great shortcuts and tips for peel-
sesame seeds roast for about 1 minute stirring refrigerator for up to 2 to 3 months and in the freezer ing, mincing and storing garlic.
frequently with a wooden spoon. for up to 6 months. Over time the color will turn a Once garlic cloves are peeled they
Continue toasting and stirring the sesame seeds deep yellow, but this isn’t a problem. As the color are ready to be used to make Garlic
until the seeds begin to pop. You will begin to smell darkens, the flavor deepens and the level of anti- Paste (page 29). Or they can be
the aroma of the seeds. Watch them carefully as oxidants increases, giving a boost to its nutritional stored whole in the refrigerator in
they can easily burn. When they have turned a light value. a container with a tight fitting lid
brown, turn off the heat and pour onto a baking where they will keep for about
sheet to cool. When they have cooled, store them Makes a generous 1/3 cup (65 g) garlic paste 2 months.
in an airtight container in the refrigerator. They will 1 large head garlic (about 12 cloves) Taekyung’s Shortcut for
last for 2 to 3 months. Peeling Garlic When
Peel the garlic using the method described in Taekyung set a dozen garlic heads
“Taekyung’s Shortcut for Peeling Garlic” (right). on the kitchen counter, peeling
Crushed Roasted Sesame Add the peeled garlic cloves to the bowl of a them seemed like a daunting task.
Seeds food processor and process into a fine mince, al- By following this shortcut, the task
Kkaesogum ₾㏢⁞ most a paste. went a lot more quickly than I’d
Transfer the garlic paste to a wide mouth jar. thought possible.
Korean crushed sesame seeds are available in 8- Store the jar in the refrigerator. Fill a large mixing bowl with
ounce (225-g) plastic jars from Korean grocers and To store the paste in the freezer, spread a thin water. Break apart the heads of
may contain salt. If you can’t find Korean crushed layer of the garlic mixture into a square onto a garlic into individual cloves. Place
sesame seeds, we recommend you make your own sheet of plastic wrap. Wrap and smooth down, the cloves in the water and set
with your stash of extra-roasted sesame seeds. Place in a plastic storage bag and seal. Place in the aside for 20 minutes.
freezer. When you are ready to use, take the garlic Drain the garlic cloves in a sieve
Makes 1 cup (120 g)
out of the package and just tear off a piece from the and discard the water. The papery
1 cup (120 g) Roasted Sesame Seeds (page 29)
sheet, plastic and all. Remove the plastic from the skins should be very loose. With
or Korean roasted sesame seeds
garlic paste and let it sit for a minute to defrost. the tip of a small knife, strip off
the skin from the cloves. The skins
should slide off easily.

the basics: your starter kit for korean cooking 29

026-035_Basics.indd 29 2/27/09 5:51:08 PM


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 the korean table

026-035_Basics.indd 30 8/29/08 3:52:17 PM


Sweet Soy Base Sauce Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool to
room temperature.
Jomi Ganjang 㫆⹎Ṛ㧻 Strain the sauce through a sieve into an airtight
Soy sauce is the base but garlic, ginger, wine and container. Discard the ginger, garlic and pepper-
brown sugar make this smooth sauce a unique corns. Store the sauce in the refrigerator. It will
combination of flavors. It is the foundation for keep for 3 months.
many of the sauces, marinades and stir-fries in
this book. The first step when making this sauce
is to create an essence. First aromatics—ginger, Kimchi Paste
garlic and pepper—are simmered in water for Kimchi Yangnyum ₖ䂮㟧⎦
10 minutes. Then the remaining ingredients are
added. Use any wine you have open at the time. Making kimchi becomes an easy task with a jar of
We’ve provided two yields for this essential sauce. this on hand. In many cases, all you are doing is
Since it keeps for over 3 months in the refrigerator salting the vegetables, discarding liquid and mix-
we suggest that you make the larger of the two ing in a few spoonfuls of this paste. Not just for Kimchi Paste

amounts. With a large jar of this on hand, prepar- making kimchi, this paste is also used in flavoring
ing many of the recipes in this book will go much hot pots and soups. In Korea, an anchovy sauce
faster. For a simplified version using fewer ingre- is used as an ingredient to aid in the fermentation
dients, see the recipe for Simple Sweet Soy Base process. We use the more widely available Thai or
Sauce on page 30. Vietnamese fish sauce. We’ve provided two yields
for this essential paste. For ease of preparation, we
Makes approximately 8 cups (1.75 liters) recommend making the larger batch.
1 cup (250 ml) water
16 large cloves garlic (about 4 oz/100 g), thinly Makes about 3 cups (750 g)
sliced 1 cup (100 g) Korean coarse red pepper flakes
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
One 2.5-oz (50-g) piece fresh ginger, peeled
and cut into 1/8-in (3-mm) slices 4 tablespoons garlic paste
2 tablespoons black peppercorns, crushed 2 teaspoons peeled and minced fresh ginger
4 cups (1 liter) soy sauce, preferably low 1 tablespoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
sodium 2 tablespoons sugar
2 cups (500 g) light brown sugar 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 cup (250 ml) red or white wine 5 tablespoons fish sauce

Makes 6 tablespoons
Makes approximately 13/4 cup (425 ml) 1/4 cup (25 grams) cup Korean coarse red pep-
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
per flakes
4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons water
Six 1/8-in (3-mm) slices peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon garlic paste
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed 1/2 teaspoon peeled and minced ginger
1 cup (250 ml) soy sauce, preferably low
1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
sodium
1/2 cup (125 g) light brown sugar 2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 cup (65 ml) red or white wine 2 teaspoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons fish sauce
Combine the water, garlic, ginger and peppercorns
Mix the ingredients together in a medium bowl
in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower
with a rubber spatula until you have a smooth
the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Be careful not
paste. Store this paste in an airtight container in
to let the liquid evaporate completely.
the refrigerator. It will last for 2 months.
Add the soy sauce, brown sugar and wine. Turn
the heat to high and boil for 2 minutes.

the basics: your starter kit for korean cooking 31

026-035_Basics.indd 31 2/27/09 5:51:19 PM


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 the korean table

026-035_Basics.indd 32 8/29/08 3:57:22 PM


Spicy Miso Dip Pine Nut Mustard Dressing
Ssam Jang 㕞㧻 Jat Sauce 㧹㘮㓺
Salty, sweet and spicy flavors are all packed in one This pungent and sweet oil-free dressing is used
terrific and versatile sauce. Miso is combined with as both a dipping sauce and salad dressing. Apple
red pepper paste, honey, apple juice and sesame juice adds a sweetness and counters the heat of
seeds and sesame oil for a dip with complex the mustard. The pine nuts are rich in natural oils
flavors. It can be used as a dip for vegetables, a and when chopped add an aromatic undertone.
sauce for steamed chicken and noodles, a condi- Use either the very hot English-style mustard, the
ment for bulgogi, or a base for salad dressing. more mellow Dijon-style mustard, or Japanese
We used Korean miso (doenjang) but you can yellow mustard (karashi), depending on your taste
substitute Japanese miso. Korean miso resembles and what is in your cupboard. For variety, you can
Japanese miso, a condiment for bulgogi, but has add small amounts of sesame, canola or olive oil
a stronger smell and more pronounced fermented to this recipe to create a unique vinaigrette for any
flavor. We’ve provided two yields for this multi- type of green salad, though it also makes a great
purpose sauce. vinaigrette as is. We’ve provided two yields for this
Pine Nut Mustard Dressing
delicious all-purpose sauce.
Makes about 1 cup (250 g)
1/2 cup (125 g) miso Makes 3 cups (750 ml)
3 tablespoons Korean red pepper paste 1 cup (120 g) pine nuts
1 tablespoon honey 3 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably low
5 tablespoons apple juice or water sodium
2 tablespoons Crushed Roasted Sesame Seeds 3/4 cup (185 ml) rice vinegar or cider vinegar
(page 29) 4 tablespoons Dijon mustard, hot English-style
2 tablespoons dark sesame oil mustard, such as Coleman’s, or Japanese
1 to 2 teaspoons garlic paste (optional) yellow mustard, or to taste
1/2 cup (125 ml) honey
Makes 5 tablespoons 2 tablespoons fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
3 tablespoons miso 11/4 cups (300 ml) apple juice or water
1 tablespoon Korean red pepper paste
1 teaspoon honey Makes 1 cup (250 ml)
2 tablespoons apple juice or water 1/4 cup (30 g) pine nuts
2 teaspoons Crushed Roasted Sesame Seeds 1 tablespoon soy sauce, preferably low sodium
(page 29) 3 tablespoons rice vinegar or cider vinegar
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard or hot English-
1/2 teaspoon garlic paste (optional) style mustard, such as Coleman’s
2 tablespoons honey
In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the 2 teaspoons fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
ingredients. Transfer the sauce to an airtight 2/3 cup (160 ml) apple juice or water
container and store in the refrigerator. It will keep
for 2 weeks. Finely chop the pine nuts on a cutting board or use
a food processor, pulsing the nuts about 6 to 7
times, or until finely chopped.
In a mixing bowl, whisk together the soy sauce,
vinegar, mustard, honey, salt and apple juice or
water. The dressing will be a bit watery.
Add the ground pine nuts. Mix well. Place in an
airtight jar in the refrigerator. It will keep for
3 weeks.

the basics: your starter kit for korean cooking 33

026-035_Basics.indd 33 3/3/09 2:22:03 PM


Chicken Stock Beef Stock
Dakgogi Soup ╃ἶ₆㓺䝚 Sogogi Soup ㏢ἶ₆㓺䝚
This light chicken stock has a hint of ginger giving A simple trio of beef ribs, daikon radish and leeks
it a clean finish. If you don’t want to use a whole are simmered together to make a meaty stock. This
chicken, wings, thighs and/or drumsticks will also stock is not only a base for several soups and hot
give you a delicious stock. Taekyung turns up the pots, it is also a meal in itself. The beef ribs become
heat for the last bit of cooking to reduce the liquid tender after slow cooking and the vegetables
and concentrate the flavor. imbued with rich flavors. Beef shanks and fresh
brisket can also be used for this stock. As a rule of
Makes 8 cups (2 liters) thumb, remember to check a stock for seasoning
12 cups (3 liters) water after you’ve added all the ingredients and the stock
One 2- to 3-lb (1- to 1.5-kg) whole chicken has finished cooking.
or 21/2 lbs (1.25 kg) bone-in chicken legs
or thighs Makes 8 cups (2 liters)
1/2 lb (250 g) daikon radish, cut into 4 pieces 10 cups (2.25 liters) water
8 cloves garlic 4 lbs (2 kg) beef back ribs, approximately 8 ribs
1 lb (500 g) daikon radish, cut into thirds
In a large stockpot, add the water, chicken, daikon 2 leeks, split lengthwise and rinsed
and garlic cloves. Bring to a boil and skim the foam Sea salt or kosher salt and fresh ground black
from the surface of the soup. pepper to taste
Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour.
With a slotted spoon remove the daikon and garlic Combine the water and the ribs, cover the pot Ingredients for Beef Stock
cloves and set aside. with a lid and bring to a boil. Periodically skim off
Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the any foam that appears on the surface of the stock.
stock to a boil. This final cooking period brings the Lower the heat, cover and simmer for 1 hour.
flavor out of the chicken and concentrates it into Add the daikon chunks and leeks and simmer,
Beef Stock Tip Taekyung and
the stock. Cook for an additional hour, adding wa- covered, for an additional 30 minutes.
I found that sometimes the beef
ter as necessary (you should end up with 8 cups/2 Strain the stock over a bowl. Reserve the meat stock we made was a little too
liters of stock). and vegetables to make the Boiled Meat and mild for our purposes. To add
Strain the stock in a sieve over a bowl. Reserve Vegetable Dinner (below), if desired. a little more depth of flavor,
the strained stock in a large container. Reserve the Return the strained stock to the pot and bring to we recommend an excellent
chicken for use in salads. a boil. Season with the salt and pepper. Remove commercial beef extract paste
Store the soup in the refrigerator overnight to from the heat and cool before storing in the called “Better than Bouillon.”
allow the fat to congeal on the surface of the stock. refrigerator. When the stock has been thoroughly Simply scoop a teaspoonful of
Place the tip of a sharp knife between the fat and chilled, remove the layer of congealed fat from it into beef stock, beef soup or a
the soup. Lift up and discard. The stock will last the surface. The stock will last for 5 days in the hot pot and stir until it dissolves.
for 5 days in the refrigerator or up to 3 months in refrigerator or up to 3 months in the freezer. Another way to intensify flavors,
the freezer.
though not a traditional Korean
Variation: Boiled Meat and Vegetable Dinner cooking method but a French
Variation: Boiled Chicken with Soup To serve the meat and vegetables as a boiled din- one, is to first roast the meat in a
To serve as a meal, place hot stock into bowls. ner, place the beef ribs on a plate. Cut the daikon 400°F (200°C)-degree oven for 30
Cut the daikon into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks and into 2-inch (5-cm) rounds and add to the plate. Cut minutes before making the stock.
add to stock along with the garlic cloves. Arrange leeks in half and add to plate. Serve with Soy Scal- This technique works particularly
the boiled chicken on a tray and serve with Soy lion Dipping Sauce (page 32). well if using beef shanks.
Scallion Dipping Sauce (page 32).

34 the korean table

026-035_Basics.indd 34 2/27/09 5:51:46 PM


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chapter 1
starters & snacks
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036-055_Starters.indd 37 7/1/08 4:59:00 PM


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 the korean table


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 the korean table

036-055_Starters.indd 40 6/20/08 5:52:39 PM


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TUBSUFSTTOBDLT 
Nine Treasure Roll-Ups
Kujeolpan ῂ㩞䕦

Cucumbers, shiitake mushrooms, carrots, celery, daikon radish, beef, shrimp, and bean
sprouts are some of the “treasures” in this classic Korean appetizer that has its roots in
the ancient royal court. Traditionally the treasures, or 8 fillings, are served in a hexagonal
lacquered box with divided sections. A pile of delicate crêpes, the ninth treasure, sits
in the center for this roll-your-own-activity. We’ve provided a recipe for homemade
crêpes, but to make this dish simpler to pull off we looked for a ready-made wrapper. We
use soft taco shells, either white or whole wheat. Pick and choose your preferred filling
and wrap it up for an innovative “Korean taco.” Each ingredient is quickly stir-fried to
retain its own flavor. Piquant Pine Nut Mustard Dressing is used for dipping. Soft lettuce
leaves, like Boston or Ruby lettuces, also make good wrappers.

Serves 4 to 6 Prepare the vegetables and place by the stove. Have a serving platter
on hand for arranging the fillings. The fillings should be arranged
2 mini cucumbers, cut into thin matchstick strips around the perimeter of the tray, leaving room at the center for
4 dried shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted, cut into the wrappers.
thin matchstick strips Add 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil to small skillet and place over
1 carrot, peeled and cut into thin matchstick strips medium heat. Add the cucumbers and sprinkle them with salt and
1 celery stalk, cut into thin matchsticks pepper. Stir-fry the cucumbers for about 1 minute, or until wilted, and
1/4 lb (125 g) daikon radish, cut into thin set onto the serving tray in a neat pile.
matchstick strips Repeat with the mushrooms, carrots, celery and daikon, each time
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil plus extra for frying adding a little bit of sesame oil, salt and pepper.
Sea salt or kosher salt and fresh ground black In a bowl, mix the beef strips, 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil and
pepper for seasoning the Sweet Soy Base Sauce. In the same skillet, without adding oil,
1/4 lb (125 g) rib eye steak or sirloin beef tips, stir-fry the meat until it is cooked through, about 3 minutes. Set on the
sliced into thin matchstick strips serving tray.

1 tablespoon Sweet Soy Base Sauce (page 31) Place the shrimp and sake in a small saucepan with a lid. Cover and
cook over medium heat for 2 minutes to steam the shrimp. Remove the
6 large shrimp, shell on
shells from the cooked shrimp and slice in half lengthwise. In a small
2 tablespoons sake
bowl, mix the shrimp halves with 1 tablespoon of the Pine Nut Mustard
1/2 cup (50 g) bean sprouts
Dressing. Add to the serving platter.
Six 8-in (17.5-cm) soft taco shells or 18 small Add 1/2 cup (125 ml) of water to a small saucepan with a lid. Bring
crêpes (see crêpe recipe on page 43) to a boil, add the bean sprouts, cover and cook for 1 minute. Drain the
1/2 cup (125 ml) Pine Nut Mustard Dressing
sprouts and place in a bowl. Sprinkle with salt and the remaining
(page 33) for dipping 1 teaspoon of sesame oil. Toss and add to the serving platter.
If you’re using the taco shells, cut them into 3-inch (7.5-cm) circles
or squares of the same size. If you’re using crêpes, follow the recipe on
the opposite page. Place the wrappers in the center of the serving tray.
To serve, with chopsticks or tongs, pick up a few strips of the fillings
and place them in the center of the wrapper. Roll and dip into Pine Nut
Mustard Dressing, served in individual bowls.

42 the korean table

036-055_Starters.indd 42 2/26/09 5:07:51 PM


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TUBSUFSTTOBDLT 
Seafood Pancakes Pancake Tips Taekyung whipped
up pancakes using whole-wheat
Haemul Jeon 䟊ⶒ㩚 flour, adding a wholesome element
as well as a sweet nutty flavor.
In many areas in Korea, rice flour
Laden with chopped seafood and vegetables, this recipe calls for eggs and a scant is used to add texture. We added
amount of flour to bind the batter. These seafood pancakes are fried in small a small amount of regular rice
flour to each batter, which gives
rounds and are a perfect size for appetizers. We serve them with a light dipping
the pancakes crispy edges while
sauce of soy sauce and vinegar or just a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. leaving the middle slightly chewy.
But you can still make great
Makes 10 small pancakes In a large bowl, combine the squid, shrimp, scallops, pancakes without it.
onion, carrots and bell peppers. We have put the “Handy Pancake
4 oz (125 g) squid, rinsed and coarsely Add the flour and stir to coat all the ingredients. Table” together so that you may
chopped Sprinkle in the salt and pepper and mix well. choose the type of flour you would
4 oz (125 g) shrimp, peeled, rinsed and Add the beaten eggs to the seafood mixture and like to use and make pancakes
coarsely chopped mix until eggs are thoroughly incorporated. even if you don’t have rice flour
4 oz (125 g) scallops, rinsed and coarsely In a large skillet, add the oil and place over in the cupboard. Experiment with
chopped medium-high heat for about 30 seconds. what’s on hand in your cupboard,
using the table as a guide.
1 small onion, cut into matchsticks To form a pancake, spoon two tablespoons of
1/2 cup (70 g) peeled and diced carrot batter into the hot skillet. With the back of a spoon, Please note that the addition
spread the batter into a 4-inch (10-cm) pancake. of ingredients to the batter like
1/4 red bell pepper, diced
Repeat with remaining batter. seafood or zucchini will increase
1/4 green bell pepper, diced
the amount of liquid in the batter.
Fry the pancakes for about 2 minutes. When batter
6 tablespoons whole-wheat or white flour To compensate, you may find you
has set and the bottom has turned a light-brown
1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher need to start off with a little less
color turn the pancakes over. Press the back of the
salt spatula on the surface of the pancake to distribute water or you may need to add a
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper little more flour to the batter once
the ingredients. Fry for about 3 minutes. Once again,
2 eggs, beaten press the surface with the spatula. Turn the pancake all of the ingredients have been
3 tablespoons canola, safflower or other once more and cook for an additional minute, or until combined. In general, it is better
neutral oil plus more if needed it is golden brown. to add a little less water in the
beginning and more later,
Soy Dipping Sauce (page 30) or lemon Serve with individual bowls of Soy Dipping Sauce
or lemon wedges. if needed.
wedges
The consistency to strive for
is between crêpe and American
Handy Pancake Table
pancake batters. The batter should
White or Wheat Flour Rice Flour Salt Water coat the back of spoon and drip
11/4 cups whole wheat flour 1/3 cup white or 1 teaspoon fine-grain 13/4 cups down in a thick stream when
brown rice flour sea salt or kosher salt (425 ml) water poured back into the bowl.
To save time, make your
11/4 cups whole wheat flour No Rice Flour 1 teaspoon fine-grain 11/4 cups own ready-made mix. The dry
sea salt or kosher salt (300 ml) water ingredients can be premeasureed
and stored in labeled plastic bags
11/4 cups white flour 1/3 cup white or 1 teaspoon fine-grain 11/2 cups in the freezer.
brown rice flour sea salt or kosher salt (375 ml) water Leftover panckaes can be
reheated over low heat in a skillet
11/4 cups white flour No Rice Flour 1 teaspoon fine-grain 11/4 cups
or in the microwave.
sea salt or kosher salt (300 ml) water

48 the korean table

036-055_Starters.indd 48 2/26/09 5:07:56 PM


Seafood and Green Onion
Pancakes
Haemul Pa Jeon 䟊ⶒ䕢㩚

Large pieces of shrimp and squid nestle between long threads of green Makes 2 large pancakes
onion, making this almost a meal on its own. The batter may appear
11/4 cups (150 g) white or whole-wheat flour
thick at first but there is a fair amount of liquid that exudes from the
1/3 cup (50 g) rice flour
seafood—do not add additional water. It takes a little practice to turn a
1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
large pancake. Feel free to make smaller ones until you get comfortable.
11/2 cups (375 ml) water for white flour or
13/4 cups (425 ml) water for whole wheat flour
5 green onions (scallions), cut into 2-in (5-cm)
lengths
1/2 lb (250 g) any combination of squid, peeled
shrimp or scallops, rinsed and cut into 1-in
(2.5-cm) chunks
3 tablespoons canola, safflower or other
neutral oil
1/2 cup (125 ml) Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce
(page 32)

In a large mixing bowl, combine the flours and salt.


Mix well. Add the water and stir until the batter is
smooth. Stir in the green onions and seafood.
In a medium skillet, add 1 tablespoon of the oil
and place over medium-high heat.
With a ladle, spoon half the batter into the
skillet, distributing the batter evenly around the
skillet. When the batter is set and the bottom is a
golden brown, about 3 minutes, turn the pancake
over. With the back of the spatula, press down
and flatten the surface of the pancake. You will
hear sizzling and see little spurts of batter come
through. Continue to fry for several minutes until
the pancake is a golden brown and the edges are
crisp. Repeat the flipping and pressing one or
two more times, or until there is very little batter
coming through the cooked surface.
Transfer the pancake to a plate. Cut the pancake
into bite-size (about 9) pieces.
Repeat with the remaining batter. Add more oil
to the skillet as needed.
Serve with the Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce.

starters & snacks 49

036-055_Starters.indd 49 3/5/09 11:04:03 AM


Zucchini and Onion Pancakes
Aehobak Yangpa Jeon 㞶䢎⹫㟧䕢㩚
Makes 2 large pancakes
Catrine Kelty, the talented food stylist who helped with this book, 1 large zucchini, cut into 2-in (5-cm) long
opened her home and garden to us. As Catrine was picking tomatoes matchstick strips
for lunch, Taekyung reached down, plucked several zucchini, and 11/2 teaspoons fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
announced that she would make a zucchini pancake. Taekyung 11/4 cups (150 g) white or whole wheat flour
quickly cut the zucchini into strips, made a simple batter of flour 1/3 cup (50 g) rice flour
and water and had the whole thing frying in no time. Everything was 11/2 cups (375 ml) water for white flour or
made with what Catrine had on hand, including the dipping sauce. 13/4 cups (425 ml) water for whole wheat flour
It takes a little practice to turn a large pancake. Feel free to make 1 onion, cut into thin strips
several smaller ones until you get comfortable. 2 to 3 tablespoons oil, such as canola,
vegetable or other neutral oil
1/2 cup (125 ml) Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce
(page 32)

In a medium bowl, combine the zucchini and


1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Let the zucchini sit for
5 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.
In a large bowl, combine the flours and
remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Whisk the dry
ingredients together. Add the water. Stir until the
batter is smooth.
Add the zucchini and onions to the batter and
mix until thoroughly incorporated.
In a medium skillet, add the oil and place over
medium-high heat for 30 seconds.
With a ladle, spoon half of the batter into the
skillet, distributing the ingredients evenly around
the skillet. When the batter is set and the bottom
is a golden brown, about 3 minutes, turn the
pancake over. With the back of the spatula, press
down and flatten the surface of the pancake.
You will hear sizzling and see little spurts of batter
come through. Continue to fry for several minutes
until the pancake is a golden brown and the edges
are crisp. Flip and press one or two more times,
or until there is very little batter coming through
the cooked surface.
Transfer the pancake to a serving platter.
Cut the pancake into bite-size (about 9) pieces.
Repeat with the remaining batter. Serve with
the Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce.

50 the korean table

036-055_Starters.indd 50 3/3/09 2:22:56 PM


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 the korean table

036-055_Starters.indd 54 7/1/08 4:59:59 PM


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TUBSUFSTTOBDLT 
chapter 2
salads, kimchi
& sides
The Korean table would be barren without a variety of side dishes (banchan). Technically, these
include kimchi (fermented vegetables), namul (seasoned vegetables from the land and the
sea), and salads. In Korea some sides are so intensely salted or spiced that just tiny amounts
are added to a diner’s portion to complement and transform the flavor. They are set out in a
myriad of small- and medium-sized white dishes, completing the table’s landscape.
There are hundreds of varieties of kimchi and some form of it is eaten at almost every meal.
Sometimes, as in the case of Chinese (Napa) cabbage kimchi, the long-fermenting type most
Americans associate with kimchi, the leaves are unfurled and wrapped around steaming rice or
used as a major ingredient in a dish. In this chapter, Taekyung offers simple recipes for turning
vegetables into kimchi, almost overnight. While we hope you will experiment with these
recipes, you can purchase ready-made Chinese (Napa) cabbage kimchi at most grocery stores.
Namul are small bowls of highly seasoned vegetables, served cold or at room temperature with
almost all Korean meals. They are as important as the main course and no meal is complete
without them. If you’ve eaten at a Korean restaurant you are probably familiar with namul.
These piquant vegetables are set on the table almost as soon as you sit down.
These seasoned vegetable sides can be served alongside any of the dishes in this book or your
favorite grilled meats or chicken. I have spruced up a salad of plain greens with a namul for a
“salad” within a salad—no dressing needed. In the traditional rice dish Bibimbap (page 137),
namul goes from a supporting role to center stage, where a variety of namul are combined with
other ingredients on top of a large bowl of white rice.
Along with the more highly seasoned kimchi and namul, we’ve also included a number
of salads that work well with a western or Korean meal or can be light meals all on their
own. Tender Greens with Fresh Herbs and Pine Nut Mustard Dressing (page 58) is a simple,
refreshing accompaniment to any meal. Our Fresh Tuna Sashimi and Rice Salad (page 62)
features raw tuna nuggets tossed with sesame oil and set atop a bowl of salad greens and hot
rice—for a very quick and healthy meal-in-one salad.

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 57 2/27/09 10:34:39 AM


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Fresh Tuna Sashimi and Rice Salad
Hyoe Deopbap 䣢◄⹻

Tender baby greens cover hot white rice topped with cubes of tuna sashimi
Korean style. The tuna is tossed with sesame oil, which Taekyung says acts as a
preservative. A spicy sauce is mixed into this rice salad. Make sure that you ask for
sushi grade when you are purchasing tuna to eat raw.

Serves 4

2 cups (325 g) cooked white rice (page 28)


1 lb (500 g) raw sashimi-grade tuna
3 tablespoons dark sesame oil
1/2 lb (250 g) baby greens, such as spinach
4 oz (125 g) bitter or peppery greens, such as
chicory, frisee or arugula
1/4 cup (55 g) Italian parsley leaves
1/2 English cucumber, seeded and sliced in
thin matchstick strips

Sauce
1/2 cup (125 ml) Tangy Red Pepper Sauce
(page 32)
1 tablespoon soy sauce, preferably low
sodium
1 tablespoon Crushed Roasted Sesame Seeds
(page 29)
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

On a clean cutting board, cut the tuna into 1-inch


(2.5-cm) cubes. In a small bowl, combine the tuna
with 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil.
Rinse and dry the greens and parsley. Transfer
to a mixing bowl and add the cucumber. Toss with
the remaining 2 tablespoons of sesame oil.
Divide the warm rice into 4 bowls. On each
bowl of rice, arrange the greens mixture. Top with
the tuna cubes.
In a small bowl, combine the sauce ingredients
and drizzle over the tuna.
With chopsticks or a spoon mix the toppings
into the rice.

62 the korean table

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 62 3/5/09 11:05:37 AM


Serves 4
1/2 lb (250 g) squid
4 oz (125 g) large shrimp, cooked, peeled
and cut into 4 pieces
2 mini cucumbers or 1/2 English cucumber,
cut into bite-size pieces
1 celery stalk, cut into 1/4-in (6-mm) pieces
1/2 ripe Western or Asian pear, peeled, cut
into 1/2-in (1.25-mm) pieces
1/2 mango, peeled, cut into 1-in (2.5-cm)
pieces
3 red radishes, cut into 1/4-in (6-mm) slices
1/4 cup (25 g) parsley, chopped
Fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt and fresh
ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup (80 ml) Pine Nut Mustard Dressing
(page 33)

Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to


a boil.
Cut the squid lengthwise into 2 halves. With
Seafood Salad with the tip of a knife, make hatch marks on the
top of each piece and set aside. Repeat with

Pine Nut Mustard Dressing remaining squid. Cut each half into 3 pieces.
Add the squid to the saucepan and cook for
2 minutes. Drain the squid and transfer to a
Haemul Salad 䟊ⶒ㌦⩂✲ serving bowl.
Add the shrimp, cucumber, celery, pear,
Cross-hatched curls of tender squid, juicy nuggets of sweet fruit and
mango, radish and parsley to the squid.
crunchy vegetables are tossed in a mustardy sauce—making a protein-
Sprinkle on some salt and pepper. Toss the
packed salad that’s also great as main course. This recipe also works well salad with Pine Nut Mustard Dressing
with leftover grilled fish in place of the shellfish. Though we used pear and and serve.
mango, feel free to experiment with other fresh fruit that you have on hand.

salads, kimchi & sides 63

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 63 2/26/09 6:15:50 PM


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 the korean table

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 64 7/1/08 5:10:08 PM


Seaweed and Cucumber Salad
Miyeok Muchim ⹎㡃ⶊ䂾
This briny seaweed salad, dressed with a simple sweet-and-sour vinaigrette, makes a great starter or
palate cleanser. The seaweed used is called ito wakame, a Japanese term that means “seaweed strands,”
and is most widely known by that name, even on some Korean packaging. You can purchase it in small
packages with the seaweed already cut into short pieces (wakame) or in long packages and break up the
dried strands yourself. When reconstituted in water the seaweed expands into little rectangles.

Serves 4

1 heaping cup (30 g) dried seaweed


(ito wakame or wakame)
3 cups (750 ml) water
1 mini cucumber or 1/4 English
cucumber, cut into 1/2-in (1.25-
cm) slices
1 shallot, sliced

Vinaigrette
1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or
kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar or apple
cider vinegar

In a bowl, place the dried seaweed


and the water. Soak for 10 minutes.
Drain the seaweed and cut into
11/2-inch (3.75-cm) pieces. Transfer to
a mixing bowl.
Add the shallot and cucumber to the
seaweed.
In a small bowl, whisk together
the salt, sugar and vinegar. Pour over
salad and mix well.

salads, kimchi & sides 65

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 65 2/26/09 6:15:56 PM


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 the korean table

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 66 7/1/08 5:10:21 PM


Cabbage Kimchi Cucumber Kimchi Kimchi Tips Kimchi is the most well
known of Korean foods. No Korean meal is
Yangbaechu Kimchi Oi Kimchi 㡺㧊ₖ䂮 complete without it. It is used as a condi-
ment and as a main ingredient in soups, hot
㟧⺆㿪ₖ䂮 pots, stir-fries, dumplings and rice dishes,
Cucumbers are split and stuffed with a where it imparts tang, heat and crunch.
spicy daikon radish mixture and then At one time it was the major source of
A salt-water soak helps to soften packed snugly for an overnight stay. vegetables during the long winter months
the green cabbage leaves and in a when the fresh vegetables of spring were

matter of hours this kimchi goes Makes 8 logs a long way off. Kimchi varies according to
region and personal family recipes. Chi-
from raw to crunch. It’s delicious 8 mini cucumbers nese (Napa) cabbage, daikon radish and
with or without the chives, and 1 tablespoon sea salt cucumbers are a few of the vegetables that
goes great with a bowl of hot rice. are used to make this treasured national
Filling dish. Red pepper paste, salt and aromatics
Makes about 6 cups (900 g) such as garlic chives, ginger, garlic and
7 oz (200 g) daikon radish, cut into 2-in
(5-cm) matchstick strips sometimes pickled fish are added to aid
1 medium head green cabbage (11/2 lbs/ in fermentation.
650 g) 1/4 onion, cut into 1-in (2.5-cm) matchstick
Chinese (Napa) cabbage kimchi is the
1 cup (250 ml) water strips
most popular and the most involved to
1 tablespoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher 2 green onions (scallions), cut into 1-in
make from scratch. Because you can now
salt (2.5-cm) matchstick strips
buy jars of this type of kimchi in the refrig-
1/2 bunch (50 g) garlic chives or regular 2 tablespoons Kimchi Paste (page 31) erator section of many supermarkets we
chives, cut into 11/2-in (4-cm) lengths have chosen to introduce you to types of
5 tablespoons Kimchi Paste (page 31) Lay the cucumber on its side and starting at the kimchi made from a variety of vegetables
top make a vertical cut to within 1 inch (2.5 cm) and with considerably less fuss. Make a jar
Two 1-gallon (3.75-liter) plastic zippered
from the bottom. Make a second vertical cut in of Kimchi Paste (page 31) and keep it in the
bags
the opposite direction from the first and follow to refrigerator. When you see a sale on cucum-
the same ending point. The cucumber will have bers or a particularly good-looking daikon
Core the cabbage and cut into bite-size pieces. radish, use these recipes to quickly turn
4 strips attached at the bottom. Repeat with
In a large glass or stainless steel bowl add them into kimchi in three days at most.
remaining cucumbers.
the water and salt. The preparation of salting, soaking and
Lay the cucumbers in the bottom of a bowl and
Add the cabbage to the water and salt draining the liquid from the vegetables is
sprinkle the salt on top and inside the flesh of the
mixture and soak for 2 hours. as important to making kimchi as adding
cucumber. Let sit for 2 hours in the refrigerator.
Drain the water from the cabbage. the spices. Once that is done, making the
Remove the cucumbers from the bowl and
Add the Kimchi Paste to the cabbage. Put kimchi is easy. There is no canning as with
discard the liquid.
on your gloves and mix the Kimchi Paste into American-style pickles; hot paste is rubbed
In a separate bowl, combine the ingredients for
the cabbage. Add the chives and mix together. into the prepared vegetables that are then
the filling. Mix well. left to ferment and gather peppery strength.
Divide the cabbage into the two plastic Divide the vegetable mixture into 8 portions. A large stainless steel bowl or plastic
bags; filling each bag only 3/4 full. Do not close Lay a cucumber on a plate and stuff with one tub with a 4-quart (4-liter) capacity and
the bag. portion of the vegetables. Close the cucumber a pair of rubber or disposable gloves are
From the bottom of the bag, roll the cabbage strips around the mixture. your basic pieces of equipment. It is easier
forward, pressing the air out of the bag as you Closely pack (stacking them is fine) the stuffed to mix the kimchi vegetables in a large
go. Once you reach the top and the air has cucumbers in a plastic container, cover and store bowl with your hands. Your hands must be
been released, close the bag. Store the bags in in the refrigerator. They will be ready to eat the protected by rubber gloves, to ensure there
the refrigerator for 1 day. Transfer the cabbage next day and will keep for 3 days. To serve, cut the is no contact with the hot peppers to your
to an airtight container. This will keep in the cucumbers in half and arrange in a shallow bowl. eyes or skin.
refrigerator for 2 weeks.

salads, kimchi & sides 67

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 67 3/3/09 10:25:59 AM


Seasoned Seasoned Bean
Daikon Radish Sprouts
Mu Saengchae ⶊ㌳㺚 Kong Namul 䆿⋮ⶒ

Raw daikon radish is cut into In this namul soybean sprouts


strips and tossed with fresh are steamed until almost all the
ginger juice, coarse red pepper water is evaporated, creating a
flakes and sesame oil. It is not tangle of crunchy sprouts. Soybean
only ideal as a side salad for a sprouts–the traditional choice
Korean meal, but it’s great tossed for this namul–must be cooked
with a bed of mixed greens for thoroughly before eating. If you are
a salad with extra crunch and using mung bean sprouts, steaming
punch. for 2 minutes is plenty of time. It
is important to dress them while
warm for maximum absorption of
Makes 3 cups (675 g) the seasonings.
1 daikon radish (about 1 lb/500 g), cut
into 2-in (5-cm)-long matchstick strips
Makes 2 cups (450 g)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon fine-grain sea salt or 1/2 cup (125 ml) water
kosher salt
1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
2 teaspoons Korean coarse red pepper 3/4 lb (350 g) soybean or mung bean sprouts
flakes
4 tablespoons minced green onion
2 tablespoons rice vinegar or apple cider
(scallion)
vinegar
1 tablespoon Crushed Roasted Sesame
1 tablespoon ginger juice (page 19)
Seeds (page 29)
1 tablespoon Roasted Sesame Seeds
1 teaspoon Korean coarse red pepper
(page 29)
flakes
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

In a large bowl, combine the daikon strips,


In a medium saucepan, with a lid, combine
sugar and salt. Set aside for 15 minutes.
the water, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and the
Drain the liquid from the daikon. Add the soybean sprouts. Bring to a boil. Reduce to low
red pepper flakes and mix well. heat, cover, and steam the sprouts for 8 to 10
Add the vinegar, ginger juice, Roasted minutes (or 2 minutes for mung bean sprouts).
Sesame Seeds and sesame oil. Mix Drain the sprouts and transfer to a serving
well. Store in an airtight container in the bowl. Mix the sprouts with the green onion,
refrigerator. It will keep for 5 days. the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt, the
Crushed Roasted Sesame Seeds, red pepper
flakes and sesame oil. It will keep for 2 days in
the refrigerator.

68 the korean table

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 68 3/3/09 10:33:06 AM


Seasoned
Eggplant
Kaji Namul Ṗ㰖⋮ⶒ

In this namul the eggplant is cooked,


seasoned and then cooled. Other
namuls are dressed raw. When
Taekyung came upon a vegetable she
hadn’t used before, like broccoli rabe,
she immediately turned it into this
simple salad. I learned almost any
vegetable can be made into namul.

Makes 2 cups (450 g)

1 medium eggplant or 3 Italian or Japanese


eggplants (about 1 lb/500 g total)
1/4 cup (65 ml) water
2 tablespoons chopped green onion (scallion)
1 teaspoon garlic paste
2 tablespoons rice vinegar or cider vinegar
1 teaspoon Korean coarse red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon Crushed Roasted Sesame Seeds
(page 29)
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
Fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt to taste

Trim the top and bottom from the eggplant. Cut the
eggplant lengthwise into four long pieces. If you’re
using the Italian or Japanese varieties, you need
only cut them in half lengthwise. Cut the pieces
into 1/2 x 2-inch (1.25 x 5-cm) strips.
In a medium saucepan, with a lid, add the
eggplant and water. Cover and steam over low
heat for 3 minutes, or until the eggplant is tender.
Drain and let sit until cool enough to handle.
Gently squeeze excess liquid from the eggplant.
Transfer the eggplant to a bowl and combine
with the green onion, garlic, red pepper flakes,
sesame seeds, sesame oil and salt. This namul will
keep for 2 days in the refrigerator.

salads, kimchi & sides 69

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 69 2/26/09 6:16:10 PM


White Kimchi
Baek Kimchi ⺇ₖ䂮

Called “white kimchi” because it is marinated in a combination of mineral water, hot


peppers and aromatics, this kimchi has a clean taste with a mixture of flavors that peek
through every bite. This kimchi takes three days to make so remember to plan ahead.

Makes 4 bunches Cut the cabbage into 4 vertical sections, leaving the core intact.
In a very large bowl, mix the water and salt. Add the cabbage to
1 medium head Chinese (Napa) the salted water. Place a large plate over the cabbage. Set several
cabbage (about 3 lbs/1.5 kg) cans on top of the plate to act as weights. Set aside at room
4 cups (1 liter) water temperature for 1 day.
4 tablespoons coarse sea salt or The next day, combine the filling ingredients in a medium bowl.
kosher salt In a large bowl, combine the marinade ingredients. Transfer the
filling to the marinade and set aside for 30 minutes. Strain the veg-
Filling etables in a sieve placed over a bowl. Reserve the marinating liquid.
3/4 lb (350 g) daikon radish, cut into Remove the weights from the cabbage. Drain the cabbage and
2-in (5-cm) matchstick strips discard the liquid.

5 green onions (scallions), cut into To assemble the cabbage rolls, follow the steps in the “White
matchstick strips Kimchi Lesson” on page 71.

1 to 2 fresh or dried finger-length red Divide the four rolls into two large resealable bags. Pour the strain
ed marinating liquid into the bags. With the bag open, roll it forward
chili peppers, seeded and cut into
1/4-in (6-mm) semicircles pressing the air out of the bag (be careful not to spill the marinade).
When you get to the top and the air has been released, close the
1 clove garlic, sliced and cut into
bag and set on a tray. Let the rolls sit at room temperature overnight.
matchstick strips
The next day, remove the cabbage rolls from the marinade. (Do
One 2-in (5-cm) knob fresh ginger,
not discard the marinating liquid.) Set them on a cutting board and
peeled, sliced and cut into
cut off the cores, as show below. Cut the cabbage in half crosswise.
matchstick strips
Lay the flat side of the cabbage on the cutting board and cut into
1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or 4 thick pieces—like half moons. Repeat with all the sections. Store
kosher salt them in an airtight container with the marinating liquid. It will keep
for 3 weeks in the refrigerator.
Marinade To serve, place several of the cut pieces in a bowl. Spoon
2 tablespoons grated onion 3 tablespoons of the marinating liquid over the cabbage pieces.
5 tablespoons grated apple
2 tablespoons, peeled and grated
daikon radish
1 tablespoon fine-grain sea salt or
kosher salt
4 cups (1 liter) mineral water

70 the korean table

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 70 2/26/09 6:16:20 PM


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 the korean table


Seasoned Seasoned Seasoned Spicy
Carrots Spinach Cucumbers
Danggeun Namul Sigeumchi Namul Oi Muchim
╏⁒⋮ⶒ 㔲⁞䂮⋮ⶒ 㡺㧊ⶊ䂾

Cooking carrots brings out all This is one of my favorite namul This is the quickest of all the
their inherent sweetness and because it is very nutritious, it seasoned sides in the book! Just
their vibrant color livens up can be eaten hot or cold, and slice and toss crunchy cukes with
any dish. the seasonings go so well with the sweet-and-spicy dressing.
the pleasantly bitter spinach.
This could turn a no-thank-you
Makes 2 cups (450 g) Serves 4
spinach hater into a please-
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil pass-the-spinach convert. Serve 4 mini cucumbers or 1/2 English cucumber,
4 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-in this alongside a Korean dish or a sliced in 1/4-in (6-mm) rounds
(5-cm) matchstick strips simple roast chicken. 1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or 2 to 4 tablespoons Tangy Red Pepper Sauce
kosher salt (page 32)
Makes 11/2 cups (450 g) 1 tablespoon Roasted Sesame Seeds
Add the oil to a medium skillet and place (page 29)
1 lb (500 g) spinach, rinsed thoroughly to
over medium heat.
remove any gritty sand or dirt
Add the carrots and salt. Stir-fry the In a large bowl, toss the cucumbers and salt.
2 tablespoons Roasted Sesame Seeds
carrots for 2 minutes. Set aside for 5 minutes. Gently squeeze the
(page 29)
Serve immediately or store in an liquid from the cucumbers. Transfer to a
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil serving bowl.
airtight container in the refrigerator. This
keeps for 2 days. 1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt Combine the Tangy Red Pepper Sauce and
1 green onion (scallion), minced cucumbers. Sprinkle on the Roasted Sesame
1 to 2 teaspoons Tangy Red Pepper Sauce Seeds and serve immediately. It will last about
(optional) (page 32) 2 days in the refrigerator.

Fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil.


Add the spinach and cook for 1 minute.
Drain the spinach in a colander and rinse
with cold water. Take one handful of spinach
at a time and squeeze excess water from the
spinach. Lay the spinach on a cutting board
and cut into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces.
Transfer the spinach to a serving bowl and
add the Roasted Sesame Seeds, sesame
oil, salt, green onion and Tangy Red Pepper
Sauce, if using. Mix well. It keeps for 2 days
in the refrigerator.

salads, kimchi & sides 73

056-073_SaladsKimChi.indd 73 3/3/09 10:35:46 AM


chapter 3
soups & hot pots
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074-089_SoupsHotPots.indd 75 7/2/08 12:09:05 PM


Udon Noodle Soup with
Clams and Vegetables
Jogae Kalguksoo 㫆Ṳ䃒ῃ㑮

Broad white udon noodles, slices of zucchini and whole Serves 4


clams are slipped into a light chicken stock. As the clams
steam open their juices are released, giving the soup a 1 lb (500 g) dried or fresh udon
noodles
briny undertone. We used beautiful red and green amaranth
4 cups (1 liter) Chicken Stock
leaves—greens often used in Asian stir-fries—that Taekyung (page 34)
found at the farmer’s market. What a surprise when the soup 1 small onion, thinly sliced
turned a very pretty pink. 1/2 medium zucchini, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons garlic paste
1 lb (500 g) Little Neck or Mahogany
clams, well rinsed
1 green onion (scallion), cut into
matchstick strips
Sea salt or kosher salt and fresh
ground black pepper to taste
1 cup (75 g) spinach, trimmed
4 teaspoons Soy Scallion Dipping
Sauce (page 32) for drizzling over
the soup

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add


the udon noodles and cook according
to the directions on the package or until
the noodles are tender but firm. Drain
the noodles and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, with a lid,
bring the chicken stock to a boil. Reduce
to medium-low heat.
Add the onion, zucchini, garlic and
clams to the stock. Cover the saucepan
and cook until the clams open.
Add the noodles, green onion, salt
and pepper. Cook for 1 minute.
Turn off the heat. Add the spinach,
cover, and let it sit for 1 minute, until the
spinach has wilted.
Divide the noodles, clams and
vegetables into 4 bowls and serve with
the Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce.

76 the korean table

074-089_SoupsHotPots.indd 76 2/26/09 5:38:04 PM


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074-089_SoupsHotPots.indd 77 7/1/08 5:21:36 PM


Ramen Noodle and Dumpling Soup
Mandu Ramyun Ⱒ⚦⧒Ⳋ

This recipe was inspired by our editor Holly Jennings and created by Taekyung.
Holly had eaten a version of this in a restaurant in Korea Town in New York City.
Taekyung combined her homemade dumplings, fresh vegetables and dried ramen
noodles with a spiced-up beef stock. We reached into the freezer, pulled out a few
frozen dumplings and added them directly to the simmering stock. If you don’t
have them on hand, ready-made Asian dumplings, such as pot stickers or gyoza,
are available fresh at many sushi concessions in supermarkets and frozen in the
freezer section in supermarkets and Asian grocers.

Serves 2

3 oz (85 g) dried ramen noodles


3 cups (750 ml) Beef Stock (page 34)
6 dumplings (mandu) (page 40)
6 Korean rice cake slices (optional)
2 bunches baby bok choy, cut in half
1 egg, beaten
1 green onion (scallion), cut into matchstick strips

Seasonings
1 teaspoon beef extract or a bullion cube
2 teaspoons Seasoned Red Pepper Paste (page 30)
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

Fill a medium saucepan, with a lid, with water and bring to a boil.
Ramen Noodle Tip Dried
ramen noodles, or wavy ramenlike
Add the noodles and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the noodles
noodles, without any soup base
are partially cooked.Drain the noodles and set aside.
are available in Asian grocers and
To make the soup, in the same saucepan, combine the Beef Stock well-stocked international sections
and seasonings. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to medium. in supermarkets. They come in
Add the dumplings, rice cake slices, if using, and bok choy. Cook compressed squares or circles and
until the dumplings rise to the top, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the will need precooking like most dried
partially cooked ramen noodles and cook for 2 minutes more. Turn off noodles. If you can find them use your
the heat. own stock or a ready-made one and
Drizzle the egg over the top of the soup and sprinkle on the green then add the seasonings, dumplings
onion. Cover the pan and let it sit for 1 minute. Divide into 2 large and vegetables as indicated in our
soup bowls. ramen soup recipe.

soups & hot pots 79

074-089_SoupsHotPots.indd 79 3/3/09 10:39:49 AM


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Tofu and Clam Hot Pot
Sundubu Chigae 㑲⚦⿖㹢Ṳ

The type of tofu used for this hot pot has a texture so
smooth it is almost like custard. A spoon is used to scoop
irregular chunks of tofu into the very spicy soup. It is sold
in thick tube-shaped packaging in Asian grocers. We used
soft or silken tofu that is available at any market. You will
find a version of this on the menu on almost every Korean
restaurant menu. The clams cooked in the fiery broth add
a briny component to the stock. This is the equivalent of
Korean comfort food.

Serves 2 In a medium pot or stovetop


casserole, with a lid, add
3 teaspoons dark sesame oil 2 teaspoons of the sesame oil.
2 oz (50 g) boneless pork Add the pork and sauté for
cutlet, cut into thin strips 2 minutes. Add the stock or water
2 cups (500 ml) Beef Stock and cover the pot. Cook over
(page 34) or water medium heat until the mixture
3/4 lb (350 g) soft tofu comes to a boil.
1 to 2 tablespoons Seasoned With a soup spoon, scoop
Red Pepper Paste (page 30) pieces of tofu from the block and
6 fresh clams, well rinsed add to the bubbling soup.
1 egg Add the Seasoned Red Pepper
Green tops of 2 green onions Paste in a small bowl. Add a few
(scallions), sliced on the tablespoons of the hot soup and
diagonal into 2-in (5-cm) mix until the sauce has dissolved.
pieces Add the thinned sauce to the soup
pot and mix thoroughly.
Sea salt or kosher salt to taste
Add the clams to the pot and
cover. Cook over medium heat until
the shells have opened. Discard
any clams that did not open during
cooking.
Crack the egg into a small bowl
and then carefully slip it into the
hot soup. Do not stir. Sprinkle on
the scallion tops, the remaining
1 teaspoon of sesame oil and cook
over high heat for 1 minute, or until
the egg is just set. Taste and add
some salt to season if needed.

84 the korean table

074-089_SoupsHotPots.indd 84 2/26/09 5:38:16 PM


Kimchi Soup
Kimchi Guk ₖ䂮ῃ

This sour-and-spicy soup


couldn’t be easier to make.
We sliced ready-made
Chinese (Napa) cabbage
Kimchi into strips and set
them into beef broth. The hot
peppery marinade blends with
the broth for a soup that is
guaranteed to warm you up.

Serves 4

1 cup (150 g) ready-made Chinese


(Napa) cabbage kimchi, cut into
strips
5 oz (150 g) daikon radish, peeled
and cut into matchstick strips
3 cups (750 ml) Beef Stock (page 34)
2 green onions (scallions), cut into
2-in (5-cm) pieces
Sea salt or kosher salt to taste

In a medium saucepan, combine the


kimchi, daikon and Beef Stock. Bring
to a boil and reduce the heat to low.
Simmer for 20 minutes.
Taste and correct the seasonings
with salt if needed.

soups & hot pots 85

074-089_SoupsHotPots.indd 85 2/26/09 5:38:21 PM


Kimchi Hot Pot
Kimchi Chigae ₖ䂮㹢Ṳ

Meaty pork ribs are scored and stir-fried with sesame oil and garlic for
an aromatic start to this hot pot. Kimchi plays the main role in spicing
and seasoning this dish. Thick pieces of tofu are simmered in the
stock. This dish is most often served during cold winter months but is
sometimes served during the summer to rejuvenate the appetite. It is
even better the next day, so if you like leftovers double the recipe. The
meaty country-style cut of pork ribs also works well in this hot pot.

Serves 4

4 pork ribs (about 1 lb/500 g total)


1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
2 teaspoons garlic paste
11/2 cup (300 g) ready-made Chinese cabbage (Napa) kimchi, cut into 2-in
(5-cm) pieces
21/2 cups (625 ml) Beef Stock or Vegetable Stock (pages 34 or 35) or water
1 block (450 g) firm tofu, cut into 8 pieces
1 green onion (scallion), cut into 2-in (5-cm) pieces

With a sharp knife, make several cuts along the meaty side of the ribs.
In a large pot, add the sesame oil and place over low heat.
Add the ribs, garlic and kimchi and stir-fry for 10 minutes.
Add the stock and tofu and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the meat is done.
Sprinkle on the green onion.
Serve in large soup bowls.

soups & hot pots 87

074-089_SoupsHotPots.indd 87 3/3/09 10:41:12 AM


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074-089_SoupsHotPots.indd 88 7/2/08 9:28:47 AM


chapter 4
meat & poultry
This chapter starts off with world famous Korean barbecue, which is what many people think
of first when they think of Korean meat dishes. We provide guidance for barbecuing outdoors,
using a conventional charcoal or gas grill, or indoors, using a tabletop electric griddle, which
simulates the effect of eating restaurant-style barbecue at home.
In Korea barbecue is as much a social experience as a culinary one, and it is generally enjoyed
in restaurants or at home for parties. Plates of seasoned meats, seafood and fresh vegetables
are set on a table with a grill embedded in the tabletop. Traditionally, the food is cooked over
charcoal, but today most grills are switched on electrically. Each diner places a few pieces of
meat and vegetables of his choosing on the grill, and the cooking—and conversation—begin.
Americans love to barbecue outdoors, whether on backyard grills or apartment house decks.
Public parks provide built-in barbecues for family picnics. Taekyung and I looked for the
common ground in our barbecue traditions. We used Korean-style meat and marinades—
marinating steak tips, pork and beef ribs overnight in large 1-gallon (3.75-liter) zippered plastic
bags—and barbecued them, American style, on a charcoal Weber grill on my deck. The table
was laid with all the things I love for summer meals: fresh corn on the cob, grilled vegetables
(page 129), a raw crudité platter with a dip (page 39) and a plate of cold watermelon wedges.
This mix of flavors and barbecue traditions was a first for Taekyung, and she loved the result.
Along with barbecue recipes, you will find a variety of delicious meat and poultry dishes in this
chapter, all of which can be served as main dishes. Our Stewed Cornish Hens Stuffed with Rice
(page 106) is like the “chicken in the pot” of my childhood, and is a meal on its own. Taekyung
has taken the popular Korean street snack of chewy rice sticks (tteokbokki ) and returned it to its
imperial roots with a colorful stir-fry—a contrast in textures and tastes (page 104).
As Taekyung tossed about ideas for chicken wings in a spicy sauce I knew right away these
were our “Korean Hot Wings”—great as a main course or a snack with a beer. They are not
vinegary like those from Buffalo, but they certainly are as lip-tingling good.
The Korean diner often enjoys multiple dishes served almost all at once. If you feel ambitious,
you can make various dishes from this book and serve them as part of an entire ensemble, just
as in Korea. Or just enjoy them one at a time.

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 91 2/26/09 6:05:53 PM


Barbecued
Sirloin Steak Tips
Chimasal 䂮Ⱎ㌊G

Sirloin tips are not a traditional cut of meat in Korea.


We use them because they’re a popular cut of meat
for grilling in America. And being a tougher cut of
meat, they benefit from several hours of marinating,
which helps to tenderize them and allows the
flavors of the marinade to fully penetrate the meat.
We grilled the tips whole on the charcoal barbecue
and under the broiler and then sliced them before
serving. We served these delicious sirloin tips with
lightly seasoned Mixed Grilled Vegetables (page
129)—a great combination for a backyard barbecue.
To give your barbecue extra Korean flair, serve slices
of barbecued sirloin tips in lettuce leaves with some
Seasoned Shredded Leeks (page 60) over top.

Trim the fat from the beef and rinse under cold water. Pat the beef dry
with paper towels.
Place the sirloin tips in a large plastic bag with zipper top.
In a bowl, combine the ingredients for the marinade. Pour over
the beef. Close the plastic bag and carefully turn the meat around in
the sauce. Lay the bag on its side and open one corner of the bag.
Compress the bag slightly to release the air. Distribute the sauce Serves 4
evenly in the bag, making sure it completely covers the meat. (Be
careful not to push the sauce out of the bag!) Secure the top. Place 21/2 lbs (1.25 kg) sirloin tips, New York Strip (also
the bag on a baking sheet, so it is lying flat and place in the refrigerator called top loin) or boneless short ribs
for at least 5 hours or preferably overnight. Vegetables for grilling (page 129) (optional)
Prepare your gas or charcoal grill for direct grilling over high heat. 20 soft lettuce leaves for wrapping (optional)
Remove the meat from the refrigerator at least 20 minutes before Seasoned Shredded Leeks (page 60) (optional)
cooking. Pour the marinade into a small saucepan and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
Marinade
Place the steak tips on the preheated grill. Brush the steak tips with 2/3 cup (160 ml) Sweet Soy Base Sauce (page 31)
the boiled marinade and cook the beef until it is done to your liking.
1 small whole apple, grated (skin on)
Turn and brush the beef every few minutes to grill all sides evenly.
1 tablespoon minced garlic or garlic paste
To serve, remove the tips from the grill. Cut the tip in half crosswise
1/2 cup (50 g) minced green onion (scallion)
and then cut the beef against the grain into 1-inch (2.5-cm)-thick
slices. Serve with Grilled Vegetables and/or with lettuce leaves and 2 tablespoons dark sesame oil
Seasoned Shredded Leeks for wrapping. 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

92 the korean table

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 92 2/26/09 6:05:58 PM


Barbecued
Cut the pork into individual ribs. Place the ribs in a large
plastic zippered bag.
In a bowl, combine the ingredients for the marinade.
Pork Ribs Pour the marinade over the ribs. Close the plastic bag
and carefully turn the meat around in the sauce. Lay
Jeyook Kalbi Gui the bag on its side and open one corner of the bag.
Compress the bag slightly to release the air. Distribute
㩲㥷Ṟ゚ῂ㧊 the sauce evenly in the bag, making sure it completely
covers the meat. (Be careful not to push the sauce out of
the bag!) Secure the top. Place the bag on a baking sheet
or plate where it can lay flat and place in the refrigerator
Taekyung uses fresh ginger
for at least 5 hours or preferably overnight.
in barbecue recipes using
Prepare your gas or charcoal grill for grilling over
pork, giving the marinade a medium heat. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator at
wonderful aroma. Individual least 20 minutes before cooking. Pour the marinade in
ribs are set to marinate, a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to
allowing the entire surface low and simmer for 5 minutes
of each rib to bathe in the Place the ribs on the preheated grill. Brush with the
boiled marinade. With a pair of tongs, turn the ribs every
delicious sauce. A simple
3 minutes, basting them each time. Cook until the ribs
side of lightly seasoned are done, about 12 to 15 minutes.
Mixed Grilled Vegetables
(page 129) or a variety of
seasoned namul is a great
accompaniment. Oven Roasted Ribs or
Sirloin Tips
Serves 4
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Cover a
21/2 to 3 lbs (1.25 to 1.5 kg) meaty baking sheet with heavy-duty aluminum foil.
bone-in pork ribs, such as St. Place the marinated ribs or beef tips with the
Louis style or country ribs (about sauce onto the prepared baking sheet and place
8 ribs total) on the middle rack in the oven.
Cook the ribs for 5 to 8 minutes on one side.
Marinade With a pair of tongs, turn the meat over and cook
2/3 cup (160 ml) Sweet Soy Base on the other side for 5 to 8 minutes more.
Sauce (page 31) Cook the sirloin tips for about 5 minutes on
1 small apple, grated (skin on) one side and turn over and cook another
1 tablespoon minced garlic or garlic 5 minutes. Cut into the meat to check. If the tip is
paste too rare, cook an additional minute on each side,
2 tablespoons dark sesame oil or until done to your liking.
1/2 cup (50 g) minced green onions To crisp up the ribs or sirloin tip, remove them
(scallions) from the oven and pour off the sauce into a bowl,
leaving as little liquid as possible in the bottom
2 tablespoons peeled and minced
of the baking sheet. Turn on the broiler and set
fresh ginger
the ribs or tips under the broiler for 1 minute on
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black
each side. Transfer to a platter and serve.
pepper

meat & poultry 93

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 93 3/3/09 10:43:40 AM


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 the korean table


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 the korean table
Seasoned Sliced Beef
Bulgogi ⿞ἶ₆

You don’t have to go to a restaurant to enjoy tabletop Korean-style barbecue.


Lesson in Cooking and dining at the table makes this meal a leisurely activity. For tabletop
Cutting Beef barbecue we first cut the raw beef, against the grain, into thin slices, set them
for Bulgogi in the fruity marinade and then cook them on an electric grill. One day, after
buying more meat than we needed, we put the marinated beef slices directly
into the freezer. Several weeks later I defrosted and cooked them. They were
delicious! So if you see a great deal on sirloin tips or steak, buy them now to
marinate and freeze, and enjoy them later.

Serves 4 Place the beef in the freezer for 1 hour or until it is semi-
frozen. This will make the beef easier to cut.
1 If you’re using whole sirloin 11/2 lbs (750 g) sirloin tips, New Combine the marinade ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
tips, cut them crosswise into York steak, or boneless rib Remove the beef from the freezer and place on a cutting
segments approximately 3 to 4 eye steak
inches (7 to 10 cm) in length. board. Cut the beef into slices, following the steps in the
Vegetables for grilling (page 129) “Lesson in Cutting Beef for Bulgogi,” as shown to the left.
(optional)
Place the beef slices in a large plastic zippered bag.
20 soft lettuce leaves for Add the marinade to the beef. Compress the bag slightly
wrapping (optional) to release the air. Distribute the sauce evenly in the bag,
Seasoned Shredded Leeks making sure it completely covers the meat. (Be careful not
(page 60) (optional) to push the sauce out of the bag!) Secure the top. Place the
1/4 cup (65 g) Spicy Miso Dip
bag on a baking sheet, so it is lying flat and place in the
(optional) refrigerator for 1 hour.
2 Cut the sirloin tip or rib eye Prepare the vegetables (see Mixed Grilled Vegetables,
steak into thin slices (about Marinade page 129), if you’re serving them. Arrange the marinated
1/ 2/3 cup (160 ml) Sweet Soy Base
2 inch/1.25 cm) across the beef slices on a platter and set on the table.
grain. You are cutting through Sauce (page 31) Heat the electric grill to medium-high and brush the
long muscle fibers to create
a piece of meat with shorter 1 small apple, grated (skin on) surface with some neutral-flavored cooking oil. Place
fibers, which gives meat a 1 tablespoon minced garlic or the vegetables on the grill first. Add the meat when the
more tender texture. garlic paste vegetables are nearly done, as the marinated beef strips
1/2 cup (50 g) minced green take no more than 1 to 2 minutes on each side to cook.
onion (scallion) To serve, take the grilled meat and vegetables from the
2 tablespoons dark sesame oil tabletop griddle and put them on a plate. Wrap piping hot
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black beef strips in lettuce leaves and top them with shreds of
pepper seasoned leeks and a dab of Spicy Miso Dip.

Tips for Tabletop Grilling You can find electric grills in the kitchenware sections of many
Asian markets or online. Grill ridges allow the fat to drain away from the food, but they’re not
3 Continue cutting into slices.
The beef is now ready to be necessary. An electric frying pan will also work. Or tabletop electric, gas, or induction-style cooking
placed in a marinade. elements can be set up on the table and used with a skillet. Alternatively, you can also use a cast-
iron grill pan or griddle on your stovetop and bring the cooked meat to the table.

meat & poultry 97

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 97 3/3/09 10:45:07 AM


Tip for Trimming Vegetables
To give a finished edge to pieces of
potatoes and carrots, with the blade of a
vegetable peeler, cut around the top and
bottom of the vegetable by rotating the
vegetable in 1/4-inch (6-mm) increments.

Serves 4

21/2 lbs (1.25 kg) meaty pork ribs, separated


into individual ribs
21/2 cups (625 ml) water
3/4 lb (350 g) potatoes, cut into 2-in (2.5 cm)

cubes
4 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-in (5-cm)
pieces
7 oz (200 g) pearl onions, peeled

Sauce
3/4 cup (185 ml) Sweet Soy Base Sauce

(page 31)
1/2 cup (50 g) minced green onion (scallion)
2 oz (50 g) fresh ginger, peeled and thinly
sliced
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1/2 cup (125 ml) red or white wine

Place the ribs in a large bowl and cover with


water. Let them sit for 20 minutes to remove
excess blood. Drain and transfer the ribs to a
large pot with a lid. Discard the soaking liquid.
Add the sauce ingredients and the water to the
pot. Cover and bring the mixture to a boil. Lower
the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the

Pork Ribs with Fresh Ginger


potatoes, carrots and pearl onions and continue
cooking, with the lid on, for 10 minutes, or until
the potatoes are soft.
Jeyook Kalbi Chim 㩲㥷Ṟ゚㹲 With a slotted spoon remove the ribs and
vegetables and transfer to a serving bowl. With a
spoon, skim the oil from the surface of the sauce.
When pork is used in a Korean recipe ginger almost always Cook the sauce for another 5 minutes
appears in the ingredient list. These slender but meaty over medium-high heat, or until the sauce is
ribs simmer in a sauce loaded with green onions and fresh thickened. Pour the sauce over the ribs and
vegetables. Serve in wide shallow soup bowls
pungent ginger.
with plain white rice on the side.

98 the korean table

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 98 2/26/09 6:06:27 PM


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 the korean table


Roasted Korean
Hot Wings
These roasted wings are a
good substitute for the fried
version, if you’re concerned
about the amount of fat in
your diet.

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).


Place the split chicken wings in a
large plastic bag. Sprinkle with the salt
and pepper. Add cornstarch and mix
until all pieces are coated. Set aside for
5 minutes.
Set the chicken wings on a baking
sheet lined with aluminum foil. Brush
the foil with a small amount of neutral-
flavored oil.
Bake the wings for 8 minutes. Turn
them over and bake for an additional
8 minutes. The wings should be almost
done.
In a small bowl, combine the sauce
ingredients.
In a wok, heat 1 tablespoon of a
neutral-flavored oil. Add the garlic and
ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Pour
in the sauce. Heat on high until the
mixture begins to bubble.
Add the cooked chicken wings to the
wok and the walnuts, if you’re using
them. Stir them with a metal spatula
until all the wings are cooked and well
coated, about 3 to 5 minutes.
Serve with lemon wedges.

meat & poultry 101

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 101 2/26/09 6:06:37 PM


Beef Skewers with Green Onions
Tteok Sanjuk ⟷㌆㩗

A perfect shape for threading onto skewers, rice sticks alternate with sections of
green onions and beef and are brushed with a tasty sauce for a grilled Korean-
style kebab. Skewers are set in a large skillet or on a cast-iron grill pan to cook.

Makes 6 to 8 small skewers


1/2 lb (250 g) sirloin steak tips, boneless rib eye steak, filet or
boneless short ribs
Sixteen 2-in (5-cm) Korean rice sticks (or longer sticks cut into
2-in (5-cm) segments
8 green onions (scallions), cut into 21/2-in (6-cm) pieces
Eight 7-in (18-cm) bamboo skewers
1 tablespoons dark sesame oil

Sauce
5 tablespoons Sweet Soy Base Sauce (page 31)
1 teaspoon minced garlic or garlic paste
1 green onion (scallion), minced
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1 tablespoons dark sesame oil

If you’re using whole steak tips, cut them crosswise into segments
approximately 3 to 4 inches (7 to 10 cm) in length. Cut the beef against the
grain into slices into 1/2-inch (1.25-cm)-thick slices about 2 inches (5 cm) in
length. Set aside.
In a large bowl, add the rice sticks and cover with boiling water. Let them sit
for 5 minutes until softened. Drain in a colander.
In a large bowl, combine the sauce ingredients. Add the beef and scallions to
the bowl and marinate for 1o minutes.
Take a bamboo skewer and thread a piece of meat, a piece of green onion
and rice stick. Thread the skewer along the far edge of the food. Repeat the
pattern until the skewer is full, ending with beef. Each skewer should have
three pieces of beef.
Add the sesame oil to a large skillet or brush the surface of a grill pan with
the sesame oil and place over medium heat. When the skillet or pan is hot, cook
the skewers or 1 minute. Brush with the remaining marinade. Turn the skewers
over and cook 1 minute more, or until the beef is cooked through.
Place 2 skewers on each plate and serve with Brown and White Rice with
Beans (page 134), Pickled Pearl Onions (page 61) and any kimchi.

meat & poultry 103

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 103 2/26/09 6:06:44 PM


Stir-fried Beef with Vegetables
Goongjoong Tteokbokki ῗ㭧⟷⽌㧊

Rice sticks, or tteokbokki, are a popular street food in Korea, where there
are carts that specialize in them. The soft and chewy sticks swim in a sweet-
and-spicy sauce. Plucked from their bath, they are served on a paper plate
with long tooth picks. In this version (shown to the right) Taekyung takes
tteokbokki back to its imperial roots. A combination of seasoned meat
and vegetables are tossed with these chewy sticks to make a texturally
interesting and delicious main course. Omit the meat, and you have great
vegetarian stir-fry. If you can’t find 2-inch (5-cm) rice sticks, simply cut
longer ones down to size after softening then in water.

Serves 4 In a large heatproof bowl, add the rice


sticks and cover with boiling water. Let
Sixteen 2-in (5-cm) Korean rice sticks them sit for 5 minutes until softened.
1/4 lb (125 g) sirloin tips or boneless rib eye Drain the rice sticks and return them to
steak, cut into thin strips the bowl.
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil plus extra for In a small bowl, combine the sauce
drizzling ingredients. Spoon 6 tablespoons of
1 small onion, cut into strips the sauce over the rice sticks and toss
2 dried shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted and to coat them.
cut into strips Place the beef strips in a bowl and
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 2 x 1/2-in (5 x 1.25- mix with the remaining sauce mixture.
cm) strips Add the 1 tablespoon of sesame oil
2 mini cucumbers, cut into 1/4-in (6-mm)-thick to a large skillet and place over medium
diagonal slices heat. Add the onion, mushrooms,
carrot, cucumbers, string beans and
6 string beans, cut in half crosswise
stir-fry for 3 minutes. Remove the
One 1-in (2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and
vegetables and set aside.
cut into thin strips
In the same skillet, add the vegetable
2 cloves garlic, sliced and cut into strips
oil. Over medium heat, stir-fry the
1 tablespoon oil, such as canola, vegetable or ginger, garlic, rice logs and the beef for
other neutral oil 3 minutes. Return the vegetables to the
2 teaspoons Roasted Sesame Seeds (page 29) skillet and toss with a spatula until well
1 tablespoon pine nuts, chopped mixed.
Fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt and fresh Drizzle on the sesame oil and toss.
ground black pepper to taste Sprinkle on the Roasted Sesame Seeds
and pine nuts.
Sauce Taste and correct the seasonings
5 tablespoons Sweet Soy Base Sauce (page 31) with salt and pepper if needed. Transfer
2 tablespoons minced green onion (scallion) to a serving platter.
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

104 the korean table

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 104 2/26/09 6:06:50 PM


Korean One Pot Dinner
Pyunyook Salad Gogi Guk 䘎㥷㌦⩂✲Sἶ₆ῃ

Boiled beef dishes make the most out of tough cuts of meat. Beef
shanks from the leg and fresh brisket from the front lower half
of the cow are two good choices for this dish. Long simmering in
water tenderizes the beef. Like the French pot-au-feu, the result
is two separate dishes—tender slices of beef, which get a jolt of
seasonings from the Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce, and a mild and
soothing soup. This dish is a warm welcome when there is a chill in
the air. For a refreshing contrast of flavors and textures, serve the
beef slices and soup with a simple salad of aromatic greens.

Serves 4 In a large pot, with a lid, add the water


and bring to a boil. Add the beef, cover
8 cups (2 liters) water and cook for 1 hour. Periodically skim
2 lbs (1 kg) beef shank or fresh the foam from the surface.
beef brisket Add the daikon and cook for an
1 medium daikon radish (about 1/2 additional 30 minutes. With a slotted
lb/250 g), peeled and cut in half spoon remove the daikon and set aside.
1/2 cup (125 ml) Soy Scallion Insert a knife into the beef. If the beef
Dipping Sauce (page 32) for is tender transfer it from the stock to a
dipping meat slices plate and set aside for 5 minutes. If the
Fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt beef is still tough, continue cooking for
and fresh ground black pepper 15 minutes, or until soft.
Cut three-quarters of the cooked beef
Seasonings into 1/2-inch (1.25-cm)-thick slices and
arrange on 4 individual plates.
1 tablespoon soy sauce, preferably
low sodium Cut the remaining beef into matchstick
strips and place in a small bowl. Add the
1 teaspoon garlic paste
Seasonings and mix well. Set aside.
4 tablespoons minced green onion
Cut the daikon into 2-inch (5-cm)
(scallion)
rounds and place in four individual
Pinch of fresh ground black pepper
soup bowls. Add the seasoned beef
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
strips to the hot stock. Taste and correct
the seasoning with salt and pepper if
Salad (optional) needed. Add the stock to the soup bowls
1/2 cup (10 g) fresh coriander
with the daikon.
leaves (cilantro) If you’re serving salad, mix the salad
1 cup (75 g) arugula greens and set on the plates with the
1 cup (75 g) baby spinach boiled beef. Serve the Soy Scallion
Dipping Sauce with the beef.

meat & poultry 105

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 105 2/26/09 6:06:55 PM


Stewed Cornish Hens Serves 4
1/4 cup (50 g) sweet (glutinous) white rice

Stuffed with Rice 2 Cornish hens, about 11/2 to 2 lbs (750 g to 1 kg) each
4 large pitted dates, preferably Medjool
Youngkye Baeksook 㡗Ἒ⺇㑯 7 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
4 whole tinned chestnuts
4 cups (1 liter) Chicken Stock (page 34) or water
2 teaspoons fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt
In Korea little chickens are stuffed with a mixture 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
of sweet (glutinous) rice, dried Korean dates, 2 green onions (scallions), chopped
called jujubes, chestnuts, and garlic and simmered Toothpicks and kitchen string for securing the chicken
in water or chicken broth. Traditionally the soup,
called Samgyetang, is made with ginseng, the In a large bowl, add the rice and fill with cold running water. With your
earthy root also known as Korean carrot, long hand, swish the rice around and drain the cloudy water. Repeat this
thought to have restorative medicinal qualities. step several more times until the water runs clear. Cover the rice with
The soup is often eaten during the summer water. Let soak for 1 hour. Pour the rice in a sieve and set it aside to
drain for 10 minutes.
months to help stimulate appetites and of course
Rinse the hens both inside and out in cold water. Pat them dry with
whenever a cold is coming on. It is the Korean
paper towels and set aside.
equivalent of mother’s healing chicken soup.
In a bowl, combine the rice, dates, 4 of the garlic cloves and the
chestnuts. Loosely pack half of this mixture into the cavity of one
In this recipe we use Cornish hens to approximate
hen. Repeat with the other hen. Make sure the ingredients are evenly
the size of the small chickens available in divided between the two hens.
Korea (chickens in the States are supersized by With a toothpick pierce the skin at one side of the opening of the
comparison!) and sweet large Medjool dates. We cavity and weave the pick into the skin on the other side, enclosing
have eliminated the ginseng from the recipe as the rice stuffing. Wrap the kitchen string around the legs and wings of
it is still hard to get in the United States and very the hen and secure. This will hold the hen together.
expensive, even at an Asian grocer. Even without Place the hens in a oven-proof 2-quart (2-liter) casserole with a lid.
Pour the water or chicken stock over the hens. Add the remaining
the ginseng, you feel better with every spoonful.
3 garlic cloves to the stock. Cover, slightly askew, and cook for 1 hour
on the stovetop over medium heat, or until the hens are done. When
One-half of a hen with stuffing is served in a
done, the juice of the hen will run clear when pierced with a knife.
shallow soup bowl with the stock spooned over it. Periodically skim off any foam while the hens are cooking.
In Korea long stainless steel chopsticks are used to Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Remove the lid from the
pull off strips of the cooked hen that is dipped into casserole and place on the middle rack in the oven. Roast for
a salt-and-pepper mixture. 3 minutes until the skin darkens and crisps.
Remove the casserole from the oven. Place the hens on a cutting
board and cut the strings. With a pair of kitchen shears, cut the hens
in half.
Place each half in a large shallow soup bowl, making sure that each
half has an equal portion of the rice, dates, chestnuts and garlic. Add
the hot chicken stock to each bowl and sprinkle on the scallions.
In a small bowl, mix the salt and pepper together. Divide this
mixture among 4 small serving plates. To eat the hen, strip pieces of
meat from the bone and dip it into the salt-and-pepper mixture.

106 the korean table

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 106 2/26/09 6:07:01 PM


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 the korean table


Stewed Beef Ribs
Sokalbi Chim ㏢ἶ₆Ṟ゚㹲
Warm and satisfying, this home-style dish
stews short ribs in a sweet sauce with carrots,
spicy peppers and daikon radish. Short ribs, a
fatty but rich and flavorful cut of beef, are first
simmered in water to melt away some of the fat
and to par-cook the beef. Eat this dish with a
bowl of plain rice on the side and drizzle some
of its delicious sauce over the top of the rice.

Serves 4

21/2 lbs (1.25 kg) beef short ribs


2 cups (500 ml) water
1/2 lb (250 g) daikon radish, peeled and cut into 2-in (5-
cm) cubes
3 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-in (5-cm) cubes
2 finger-length green chili peppers
2 cups (500 ml) water
1/2 cup (125 ml) Sweet Soy Base Sauce (page 31)
1/2 cup (125 ml) red or white wine
1 tablespoon minced garlic or garlic paste
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

Place the ribs in a large bowl and cover with water. Soak
them for 30 minutes. This helps to remove any blood from
the ribs. Drain the ribs in a colander. Discard the water.
In a large pot, with a lid, add the ribs and the water. Bring
to a boil and skim the foam from the surface. Lower the heat
and skim several more times until the water is clear. Cover
and simmer for 30 minutes.
Add the daikon, carrot, green chilies, Sweet Soy Base
Sauce, wine, garlic, onion and pepper. Cover and cook over
medium heat for an additional 30 minutes, until the sauce is
reduced to a thick liquid.
Serve in shallow soup bowls with a serving of rice on
the side.

meat & poultry 109

090-109_MeatPoultry.indd 109 2/26/09 6:07:05 PM


chapter 5
fish & seafood
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 the korean table

110-119_FishSeafood.indd 112 7/1/08 5:38:26 PM


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GJTITFBGPPE 
Pan-fried Cod with
Broccoli Rabe
Saengsun Jeon ㌳㍶㩚

Korean flavors mingle with western sensibilities as fish and greens


share a plate. Taekyung cuts mild codfish filet into several pieces and
coats each with an egg and green onion batter before frying them.
Broccoli rabe is boiled and tossed with sesame oil and sesame seeds
for an instant namul.

Serves 4 Place the cod on a cutting board and cut into


8 pieces. Sprinkle on the pinch of salt and
11/2 lbs (75o g) cod or other thick pepper.
white-flesh fish, sliced into 8 pieces Sprinkle the flour on a large plate. In a
Pinch of fine-grain sea salt or kosher shallow bowl, vigorously beat the green
salt and fresh ground black pepper onions and eggs together.
1/3 cup (80 g) flour In a medium skillet, add the oil and place
2 green onions (scallions), minced over medium heat. Dip the cod into the
2 eggs flour and then into the egg mixture. Transfer
3 tablespoons oil, such as canola, the cod filets to the skillet and fry until the
vegetable or other neutral oil coating turns light brown. With a spatula,
turn the cod filets over and cook for another
3 cups (750 ml) water
3 minutes.
1 bunch broccoli rabe, rinsed and
In a medium saucepan, combine the
trimmed
water and 1 teaspoon of the salt and bring
11/2 teaspoons fine grain sea salt or
to a boil. Add the broccoli rabe and cook
kosher salt
for 5 minutes. Drain the broccoli rabe and
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil place in a bowl. Sprinkle on the remaining
1 teaspoon Roasted Sesame Seeds 1/2 teaspoon salt, the sesame oil and the
(page 29) Roasted Sesame Seeds.
4 tablespoons Soy Dipping Sauce Divide the Soy Dipping Sauce into 4 small
(page 30) bowls.
Arrange the fish and broccoli rabe on
individual plates and serve with the
dipping sauce.

118 the korean table

110-119_FishSeafood.indd 118 2/27/09 9:44:28 AM


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GJTITFBGPPE 
chapter 6
vegetables
& tofu
A man on his delivery bicycle loaded with a small pallet of tofu, each block with the tofu
maker’s initials, skirted by me at the covered Joongang Market in Seoul. This huge central food
market of vegetables, meat, fish and spices seemed to go on forever. Pyramids of Chinese
(Napa) cabbage were piled next to tubs of sea salt. Ancient ladies sat on crates trimming
green onions (scallions) and garlic cloves while chattering away. I could just imagine buying
the spiky green onions and chopping them up for Taekyung’s piquant Soy Scallion Dipping
Sauce that dresses our delicious Pan-fried Tofu with Mushrooms (page 127). This market visit
seemed the perfect bookend to Taekyung’s summer trip to the farmer’s market in Boston
where she set a thick bunch of just-pulled-from-the-ground green onions into her basket.
We have included dishes in this chapter where vegetables and tofu are the main attraction—like
Simmered Potato and Squash sautéed in sesame oil (page 123) and the simple Braised Tofu,
served with Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce (page 125).
Then there are the vegetables that are suited to holding delicious fillings, like eggplant stuffed
with a spicy beef and pork mixture (page 122) and portabello mushrooms and peppers stuffed
with ground beef and tofu (page 124).
We’ve also included Vegetable and Miso Porridge (page 128) and Creamy Vegetable Porridge
(page 129). Porridge, or jook, is the Korean equivalent to comfort food. Jook is made with small
amounts of rice and large amounts of liquid—at a ratio of about 1:4. The raw rice cooks directly
in water or stock and releases its starch into the liquid, creating a velvety base. In Korea, these
homey porridges are often served for breakfast, just like oatmeal, but can be served any time of
day and are also popular fare for those who have had too much to drink. I often enjoy them as a
light supper.

120-129_VegTofu.indd 121 3/3/09 10:46:58 AM


Spicy Stuffed
Eggplant
Kaji Chim Ṗ㰖㹲

Spicy ground beef and pork is


stuffed into slits in small eggplants
and simmered whole. The combi-
nation of beef and pork makes this
dish soft and tender. Taekyung
carefully made vertical cuts around
the eggplant and then coaxed the
meat into the slits. After the meat
was simmered she sliced the egg-
plants into sections, revealing a
beautiful “star” pattern.

Serves 4 Place one eggplant on a cutting board. With the tip of a sharp paring knife, start just below
the stem and make a slit through the flesh, drawing the knife downward until you are 1/2 inch
4 small eggplants, such as Italian or (1.25-cm) from the bottom of the eggplant. With the eggplant resting on the board turn the
Japanese eggplants eggplant slightly and make another slit through the flesh. Turn the eggplant one more time and
1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or make another slit. (Two slits will do just fine and are easy to stuff. You can get fancy with more
kosher salt practice.) Repeat with the remaining eggplants.
2 oz (50 g) ground beef Fill a large bowl with water and add the salt. Place the eggplants in the water for about
5 minutes. Drain the eggplants and dry with paper towels.
2 oz (50 g) ground pork
In a small bowl, add the beef, pork and seasonings. Mix well.
Divide the meat mixture into 4 portions. With a small spoon, scoop a bit of meat from one
Seasonings
portion and stuff it into a slit of one eggplant. Spread the meat along the length of the slit.
2 tablespoons Sweet Soy Base Sauce
Repeat until all slits in that eggplant are filled. You will need to smooth the meat into the slits
(page 31)
with a rubber spatula or your fingers so it gets through to the center. Set aside. Repeat this
1/2 teaspoon garlic paste
procedure with the remaining eggplants and meat mixture. Don’t worry if there is some meat on
1 green onion (scallion), finely chopped the outside surface of the eggplant. This will get cooked in the sauce.
2 teaspoons Korean red pepper paste In a medium skillet or saucepan, with a lid and just large enough to hold the eggplants,
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil combine the sauce ingredients and the eggplants. Cover the skillet and cook over medium heat
for about 5 minutes. Turn the eggplant and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Pierce the eggplant
Sauce with the tip of a knife or toothpick to make sure it is getting soft. Continue cooking until the knife
1/2 cup (125 ml) water slides in easily.
2 tablespoons Sweet Soy Base Sauce Remove the lid and continue cooking the eggplants until the sauce in the pan reduces to a
(page 31) thick glaze. Add a small amount of water if necessary.
Remove the eggplants from the pan and place on a plate or cutting board. Cut into thick slices.
To serve, transfer the sliced eggplant to each individual plate and spoon the sauce over the
eggplant. Serve with rice and a simple green salad.

122 the korean table

120-129_VegTofu.indd 122 2/27/09 10:01:02 AM


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120-129_VegTofu.indd 123 7/1/08 5:51:35 PM


Stuffed Mushrooms and Green Peppers
Bohseot Piman Jeon ⻚㎅䞒Ⱒ㩚

Crumbled tofu and ground beef are seasoned and stuffed into large meaty portabello
mushrooms and long mild Italian peppers. The long mild peppers are sliced into thick
rings and, along with the mushrooms, are dipped in flour and fried into tasty rounds.
Serve as appetizers or with rice and soup for a main course.

Serves 4 In a large mixing bowl, mash together the ground beef,


tofu and seasonings with a fork.
1/2 lb (250 g) ground beef
Wipe the mushroom cap with a wet paper towel. Turn
4 oz (125 g) firm tofu, cut into 4 pieces the mushroom over and with a small spoon carefully
2 Italian green peppers, Cubanelle peppers or scrape the gills from the underside of the mushroom.
banana peppers With a sharp knife, cut the top off of the green
4 medium portabello mushrooms pepper. Carefully scrape out the seeds, leaving the
1 egg, beaten pepper whole.
2 tablespoons flour Stuff half the meat and tofu filling into the green pep-
3 tablespoons canola, safflower or other pers. Cut into the peppers into 2-in (5-cm)-thick rings.
neutral oil Stuff the remaining meat and tofu filling into the
Korean coarse red pepper flakes mushrooms cavities.
4 tablespoons Soy Dipping Sauce (page 30) Beat the egg in a small bowl. Sprinkle the flour on
a plate.

Seasonings Dredge both sides of a mushroom into the flour. Then


dip it into the beaten egg. Set on a platter. Repeat with
2 tablespoons Sweet Soy Base Sauce (page 31)
the remaining mushrooms and pepper rings.
6 green onions (scallions), minced
In a large skillet, add the oil and place over medium
2 teaspoons minced garlic or garlic paste
heat. Add the mushrooms (stuffing side down) and the
1 tablespoon Crushed Roasted Sesame Seeds green peppers, in a single layer. Fry on one side for
(page 29) about 3 minutes. With a spatula, flip and fry on the other
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil side until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer the stuffed
2 teaspoons peeled and grated fresh ginger vegetables to a serving platter and sprinkle on the red
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper pepper flakes.
1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt Divide the Soy Dipping Sauce into 4 small bowls.
Serve with the stuffed mushrooms and peppers.

124 the korean table

120-129_VegTofu.indd 124 3/3/09 10:47:47 AM


Braised Tofu
Dubu Jorim ⚦⿖㫆Ⱂ

Tofu, served this simply, begs


for the best quality you can find.
You must change the water every
day or so as tofu can go off very
quickly. Without a strong flavor of
its own, it absorbs the essence of
the sauces it is being cooked with.
Serve with Brown and White Rice
with Beans (page 134) and a salad
for a perfect vegetarian meal.

Serves 3 to 4
1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or kosher
salt
1 lb (500 g) firm tofu
1 tablespoon canola, safflower or other
neutral oil
6 tablespoons Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce
(page 32)
2 tablespoons water

Place the tofu on a plate and sprinkle salt


over top. Let the tofu sit for 5 minutes to help
release liquid from the tofu. Lightly press on
the tofu and drain the liquid into the sink.
Cut the tofu into 1 x 2-inch (2.5 x 5-cm)
pieces.
In a medium skillet, add the oil and place
over medium-high heat. Add the tofu pieces
and stir-fry for 2 minutes on each side, until
the tofu is lightly browned.
Add the Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce and
water to the tofu.
Simmer for several minutes.

vegetables & tofu 125

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 the korean table

120-129_VegTofu.indd 128 7/2/08 9:45:53 AM


Creamy Vegetable Mixed Grilled
Porridge Vegetables
Yachae Jook 㟒㺚㭓 Yachae Gui 㟒㺚ῂ㧊

Tiny cubes of carrots, zucchini, daikon radish, onion We grilled this assortment of vegetables
and rice are stir-fried in sesame oil before being cooked to accompany the barbecued meat we
in a vegetable stock. The starch from the rice gives made for a backyard gathering, but
this porridge its wonderful creamy texture. If you have they are a great side with many of the
leftover porridge, add a little water when reheating it. meat, poultry and seafood dishes in this
book. Choose any seasonal vegetables
and cut them to the same thickness.
Serves 4
Sweet potatoes and butternut squash
3/4 cup (150 g) short-grain white rice take slightly longer than zucchini and
11/2 tablespoons dark sesame oil summer squash to cook, so be sure
1 medium onion, cut into 1-in (2.5-cm) cubes to set them on the grill first. It is not
1 large carrot, cut into 1-in (2.5-cm) cubes necessary to peel the skin from the
1/2 small daikon radish (about 6 oz/175 g), cut into 1-in (2.5-cm)
vegetables, as it helps them hold their
cubes shape—and in most cases is edible.
1 medium zucchini, cut into 1-in (2.5-cm) cubes
6 cups (1.5 liters) Vegetable Stock (page 35) or water
2 teaspoons fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt Serves 6 to 8
Dash of fresh ground black pepper
4 ears of corn, cut in half crosswise and
parboiled
In a large bowl, add the rice and fill with cold water. With your hand,
1 large summer squash, cut into 1-in (2.5-cm)
swish the rice around and drain the cloudy water. Repeat this step until
ovals
the water runs clear. Cover the rice with water and let soak for 2 hours.
Drain the rice in a sieve and set aside for 15 minutes. 1 large zucchini, cut into 1-in (2.5-cm) ovals
In a large pot, add the sesame oil and place over medium heat. 1 large sweet potato, washed and sliced into
1-in (2.5-cm)-thick pieces
Add the onion, carrot, daikon and rice. Stir-fry for 1 minute.
1 butternut or patty pan squash, seeded and
Add the stock and simmer over medium-low heat until the rice is
sliced into 1-in (2.5-cm)-thick pieces
cooked through, about 20 minutes. Stir occasionally. The stock will
become creamy from the starch of the rice. Fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt to taste
Add the zucchini and continue to cook until the zucchini is tender and
the stock has thickened and reduced slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the Arrange all the vegetables on a platter.
salt and pepper and stir to combine. Cook over a hot grill until fork tender on one side.
With a pair of tongs, turn over the vegetables and
cook until done, about another 2 minutes.
Seasoning Tip If you check porridges or soups for seasoning Lightly sprinkle on some salt and serve alongside
before they’re finished cooking they may seem a little bland, but barbecued meat or another main dish of your choice.
don’t be tempted to season them until fully cooked. You get the
full effect of the seasonings that way.

vegetables & tofu 129

120-129_VegTofu.indd 129 2/27/09 10:01:14 AM


chapter 7
rice & noodles
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130-143_RiceNoodles.indd 131 7/2/08 9:51:57 AM


Summer Noodles with Vegetables
Bibim Guksoo ゚オῃ㑮

In this cold noodle dish, popular in the summer, somen noodles are mixed with a
spicy sauce and topped with a variety of raw vegetables and namul.

Serves 4 In a large skillet, add 1 tablespoon of the


oil and place over medium heat. Stir-fry the
2 tablespoons canola, vegetable or other mushrooms for 3 minutes, sprinkle with a
neutral oil little salt and transfer to a large platter. In the
4 dried shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted in same skillet add the remaining oil and stir-fry
water and cut into thin strips the carrots. Sprinkle with salt and transfer to
Fine-grain sea salt or kosher salt the platter with the mushrooms.
1 carrot, cut in half and then into thin strips In a small bowl, combine the ground beef
1/4 lb (125 g) ground beef and seasonings. Stir-fry the beef in the skillet
over medium heat for 3 minutes, or until it is
1 tablespoon Crushed Roasted Sesame Seeds
cooked through.
(page 29)
1/2 English cucumber, seeded and cut into Place the cut cucumber and cabbage on the
platter with the vegetables and beef.
matchstick strips
1/4 head fresh cabbage (about 1/4 lb/100 g), Fill a large pot with water and bring to a
boil. Add the somen or angel hair pasta, if
shredded
using, and cook the noodles until they are
12 oz (350 grams) dried somen or angel
tender but firm, about 3 minutes. Drain the
hair pasta
noodles in a sieve and rinse under cold
running water. Shake the noodles to remove
Seasonings excess water.
2 tablespoons Sweet Soy Base Sauce (page 31) In a large mixing bowl, combine the sauce
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil ingredients. Transfer the noodles to the bowl
with the sauce. Toss the noodles until they
Sauce thoroughly coated. Transfer to the serving
5 to 8 tablespoons Tangy Red Pepper Sauce platter.
(page 32) Arrange the carrots, mushrooms, beef,
1 tablespoon soy sauce, preferably low sodium cucumber and cabbage on top of the dressed
noodles. Sprinkle with the Crushed Roasted
Sesame Seeds. Alternatively assemble the
noodles and vegetables in individual bowls.

132 the korean table

130-143_RiceNoodles.indd 132 3/3/09 2:24:23 PM


Rice Bowl with Oysters
Gool Mu Bap Ὴⶊ⹻

Daikon radish is cut into strips and scattered atop the


uncooked rice to cook together in the rich liquor produced
from simmering fresh oysters. The plump oysters are folded
in for the final 10 minutes of steaming.

Serves 4

11/2 cups (300 g) short-grain rice


1/2 lb (250 g) fresh shucked oysters
1 tablespoon soy sauce, preferably low sodium
2 tablespoons sake (rice wine)
2 tablespoons dark sesame oil
11/2 cups (375 ml) reserved simmering liquid (plus water if needed)
1/2 lb (250 g) daikon radish, cut into thin matchstick strips
1 green onion (scallion), cut into 1/2-in (1.25-cm) pieces

Dipping Sauce
1/2 cup (125 ml) Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce (page 32)
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

In a large bowl, add the rice and fill with cold running water. With your hand,
swish the rice around and drain the cloudy water. Repeat this step several
more times until the water runs clear. Drain the rice in a sieve over a bowl and
set aside for 30 minutes.
In a small saucepan, combine the oysters, soy sauce, sake and 1
tablespoon of the sesame oil. Simmer the oysters over low heat for 1 minute.
Remove the oysters from the simmering liquid with a slotted spoon and
reserve the liquid. In a measuring cup add the simmered oyster liquid and
enough water to equal 11/2 cups (375 ml). Set aside.
In a medium saucepan, with a lid, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of
sesame oil and place over low heat. Add the rice and stir until all the grains
are coated with the oil.
Pour in the simmering liquid and set the daikon on top. Increase the heat to
medium and cover the rice. Cook for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and
cook 10 minutes more. Remove the lid and fold the oysters into the rice. Place
the cover back on, turn off the heat and let the rice steam for 10 minutes.
In a small bowl, combine the dipping sauce ingredients. Serve the rice in
individual bowls. Sprinkle on the green onions and serve with the dipping
sauce on the side.

rice & noodles 133

130-143_RiceNoodles.indd 133 2/27/09 10:13:46 AM


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SJDFOPPEMFT 

130-143_RiceNoodles.indd 143 7/2/08 11:07:41 AM


chapter 8
desserts
& drinks
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144-155_DessertsDrinks.indd 145 7/2/08 9:53:20 AM


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 the korean table

144-155_DessertsDrinks.indd 146 7/1/08 6:18:35 PM


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 the korean table

144-155_DessertsDrinks.indd 148 7/1/08 6:18:42 PM


 the korean table
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144-155_DessertsDrinks.indd 151 7/1/08 6:18:50 PM


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 the korean table

144-155_DessertsDrinks.indd 152 7/1/08 6:18:57 PM


Citrusy Tofu
Sherbet
Yooja Dubu Sherbet
㥶㧦⚦⿖㎪⼉

Taekyung uses two soybean products


in this citrusy dessert: soymilk and
tofu. Korean citron honey made with a
citrus called yooja in Korean and yuzu
in Japanese is the special ingredient
that gives this sherbet its wonderful
flavor. The honey is mixed with strips
of the tangy citrus rind. It is also the
base of soothing Citrus Honey Tea
(page 155). It is available at Asian
grocers, but it can be substituted in
this recipe with orange marmalade. The
sweetness of orange marmalade can
vary greatly, so check for sweetness
and adjust the amount of sugar you Serves 4 In a blender or food processor, add the
add to the sherbet mixture accordingly. citron marmalade and tofu. Process the
1/4 cup (50 g) Korean citron honey mixture until very smooth.
The type of tofu you use is very (yooja) or orange marmalade plus Add the lemon juice, sugar, soymilk,
important as it affects taste and extra for topping vanilla and salt. Process again until
texture. The best choice is to purchase 7 oz (200 g) silken or soft tofu completely blended.
fresh tofu at an Asian grocer. Or look 2 tablespoons lemon or lime juice Pour the sherbet mixture into the
for the widely available House Brand 1 tablespoon sugar bowl of an ice cream maker and follow
1 cup (250 ml) soymilk manufacturer’s instructions. Let chill for
tofu in your grocery store. We found
1 teaspoon vanilla about one hour to set up.
this brand of tofu to have a noticeably
1/4 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt or Remove the sherbet from the freezer
fresh and mild flavor. If your grocer about 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
kosher salt
doesn’t carry it, why not ask? With a small ice cream scoop, scrape out
Mint leaves for garnish (optional)
8 small balls of the tofu sherbet. Set two
This recipe requires an ice cream balls in each bowl and garnish with a sprig
maker, which gave us the best result. of mint and a teaspoon of the marmalade
Serving Tip If you make the
By comparison, the time-consuming sherbet a day ahead, or are
spooned over the top.
hand-stirring method simply didn’t serving leftover sherbet the next
stack up. The electric churning of the day, remove it from the freezer for
ice cream maker aerated the mixture, about 30 to 35 minutes prior to
making it nice and creamy. serving to soften.

desserts & drinks 153

144-155_DessertsDrinks.indd 153 2/27/09 6:09:13 PM


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 the korean table


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144-155_DessertsDrinks.indd 155 7/1/08 6:19:14 PM


Resource Guide

ONLINE STORES: MARKETS WITH MAIL ORDER AND/OR United Noodles Oriental Grocery
WEBSITES: 2015 E 24th Street
www.koaMart.com Minneapolis, MN 55404
This online supermarket for Korean and Asian 99 Ranch Market www.unitednoodles.com
ingredients has a specialty in Korean items. 7330 Clairemont Mesa Boulevard Tel: 612-721-6677
They have excellent information on their San Diego, CA 92111
Fax: 612-721-2019
products. It is an easy-to-navigate site with www.99ranch.com
Email: info@unitednoodles.com
photographs of products in categories, like Tel: 858-974-8899
This large warehouselike store in Minneapolis
kimchi and noodles. There is a section for This blockbuster of a supermarket has twenty-
claims to be the largest Asian grocer in the
cookbooks, kitchenware, cosmetics and the one full service stores throughout the state
Midwest. It is easy to get around in and has
latest DVDs. of California. I visited this one in San Diego.
friendly staff. On weekends it is jammed with
Goods from Asia and the Caribbean line the
families taking field trips for the weekly or
www.KGrocer.com shelves in football field–length aisles. It also
monthly hits of tofu, cases of ramen and fresh
They sell Korean and Asian groceries and offers standard products found in any regular
Asian vegetables. They also have a mail-order
DVDs. They call themselves the Korean Instant market. There are fresh produce, bakery,
business and if you can’t find something on
Food Online Super Store. So that means lots of seafood and meat departments. Besides the
their website give them a call. They will search
ramen, cooked rice dishes (dried) and snacks. dozens of varieties of packaged tofu, fresh
their stock and are happy to help. The website
But they have plenty of basics in stock too. tofu was available. Little restaurant stalls are
is new but the store has been in operation
Sign up for a newsletter. Click on products selling hot food for hungry shoppers. There is
since the 1970s.
to read detailed information on the health a website in Chinese and English but no online
benefits of the products along with a recipe. shopping. A shopping tip section has recipes
and nutrition information. Zion Market
www.zionmarket.com
HMart group
Super 88 Market 4611 Mercury Street
www.hmart.com
One Brighton Avenue San Diego, CA 92111
This is a giant chain of stores in many parts of
Allston, MA 02134 Tel: 858-268-3300
the United States from New York to Texas to
California. Within each state there are multiple www.super88market.com
Tel: 617-787-2288 4800 Irvine Boulevard
store locations under various names that
belong to the HMart group. The mega website Starting in Boston’s Chinatown, this market Irvine, CA 92620
starts out in Korean but you can click on a now has six locations in the Boston area, Tel: 714-832-5600
button for English. You can find whatever you with this branch being one of the biggest and
want on this site including climate-controlled newest. Two great advantages to this store are 12565 Carson Street
kimchi refrigerators. The site is sophisticated, a parking lot and a terrific food court attached Hawaiian Gardens (Cerritos), CA 90716
with pop-up windows when you scroll onto a to the market. Shop the well-stocked market Tel: 562-865-6600
category. They sell housewares, health items, with aisles divided by categories, like noodles,
Zion Market is a large Korean and Japanese
flowers and even calling cards. sauces and snacks, and then enjoy a bowl of
grocery in southern California. It is a full-
Korean ramen or plate of bulgogi at one of
service market with produce, meat, seafood
the many food stalls. There are fresh produce,
and prepared food departments. There are
meat and seafood departments as well as a
three locations. The website has limited
great section devoted to kitchenware.
information. Click on the orange circle for the
There is no online shopping but the website store near you and you will see a flyer with
has information on store locations, some various products on sale that week. The San
products and two articles. Diego location has two restaurants (Japanese
and Chinese) on the premises.

156 the korean table

156-160_ResourceBiblioAck.indd 156 2/27/09 10:23:00 AM


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 the korean table

156-160_ResourceBiblioAck.indd 158 6/23/08 1:20:56 PM


Kongnamul Sigeumchi Doenjang Jook and Asparagus Salad, 64 Soup (Miyeok Guk), 81 kimchi, 67
(Vegetable and Miso Porridge), 128 and Cucumbers Stuffed with Beef, Wafers, Roasted (Gim Gui), 38 marinades for barbecues, 94
“Korean taco”. See Nine Treasure Roll-Ups Peppers and Mushrooms, 47 Sesame Nuggets (Kkae Dasik), 146 for pancakes, 48
Kujeolpan (Nine Treasure Roll-Ups), 42 and Fruit Salad (Kwail Salad), 151 Sesame seeds, 23 Ramen noodles, 79
Crêpes for, 43 and Nine Treasure Roll-Ups, 42 importance of, xiv rice (cooked), freezing, 28
Kwail Salad (Fruit Salad with Pine Nut and Seafood Salad, 63 See also Roasted Sesame Seeds sherbert serving, 143
Dressing), 151 Pork Sesame-Soy Pudding (Kkae Pudding), 148 soup seasoning, 129
Barbecued Ribs (Jeyook Kalbi Gui), 93 Sigeumchi Kongnamul Doenjang Guk (Miso tabletop grilling, 97
Mandu (Dumplings), 40 Ribs, Oven Roasted, 93 Soup with Spinach and Bean Sprouts), 83 vegetable, cutting potatoes and
lesson, 41 Ribs with Fresh Ginger (Jeyook Kalbi Sigeumchi Namul (Seasoned Spinach), 73 carrots, 98
tips for freezing, 41 Chim), 98 Snack foods, 37 vegetable matchsticks, cutting, 39
Mandu Ramyun (Ramen Noodle and Dump- Potato and Basil Pancakes (Gamja Jeon), 51 Sogoi Soup (Beef Stock), 34 Tofu, 25
ling Soup), 79 Potatoes and Squash, Simmered (Gamja tip, 34 Braised (Dubu Jorim), 125
Manul. See Garlic (Manul) Jorim), 123 Sokalbi Chim (Stewed Beef Ribs), 109 Citrusy Sherbert (Yooja Dubu Sherbert),
Meal overview Potatoes, New with Roasted Sesame Seeds Sokalbi Gui (Barbecued Beef Ribs), 94 153
xv, 37, 57, 75, 91 (Haetgamja Jorim), 126 Soojeongkwa (Fig Compote with Cinnamon Pan-fried with Mushrooms (Dubu Jeon),
and rice, 131 Poultry and Ginger), 151 127
Medicinal qualities of food, xiv Cornish Hens, Stewed Stuffed with Rice Soup, importance of, 75 Tomatoes, Garden Ripe Drizzled with Honey
Miso (Doenjang), 20 (Youngkye Baeksook), 106 Soy Dipping Sauce (Cho Ganjang), 30 (Kkool Tomato), 147
importance of, xiv See also Chicken with Asparagus Fritters, 53 Tongkkae (Roasted Sesame Seeds), 29
Soup with Spinach and Bean Sprouts Pumpkin Porridge, Sweet and Creamy with Corn Fritters, 54 Tteokbokki, xii, 22
(Sigeumchi Kongnamul Doenjang Guk), (Hobak Jook), 152 with medley of vegetable fritters, 55 Tuna (fresh) Sashimi and Rice Salad (Hyoe
83 Pyunyook Salad Gogi Guk (Korean One Pot Soy Scallion Dipping Sauce (Yangnyum Deotbap), 62
and Vegetable Porridge (Kongnamul Dinner), 105 Ganjang), 32
Sigeumchi Doenjang Jook), 128 with Cucumber and Grilled Eggplant Udon Noodle Soup with Clams and Veg-
See also Spicy Miso Dipping Sauce Ramen Noodles, 21 Salad, 59 etables (Jogae Kalguksoo), 76
(Ssam Jang) and Dumpling Soup (Mandu Ramyun), 79 with Kimchi Pancakes, 52
Miyeok Guk (Seaweed Soup), 81 tip, 79 with Potato and Basil Pancakes, 51 Vegetable and Miso Porridge (Kongnamul
Miyeok Muchim (Seaweed and Cucumber Red pepper paste (gochujang), 21 with Seafood and Green Onion Pancakes, Sigeumchi Doenjang Jook), 128
Salad), 65 Regional variations in Korean cuisine, xiv 49 Vegetable Fritters, Medley of (Gogooma,
Mochi gome rice, 25 Rice, 131 with Zucchini and Onion Pancakes, 50 Danhobak, Aehobak Jeon), 55
Mu Saengchae (Seasoned Daikon Rad- Bowl with Oysters (Gool Mu Bap), 133 Soybeans, Sweet-and-Salty, Glazed (Kong Vegetable Matchsticks, Stir-fried (Gamja
ish), 68 Brown and White with Black Beans (Kong Jorim), 45 Bokkum), 39
Mushroom and Sesame Soup (Bohseot Bap), 134 Spicy Miso Dipping Sauce (Ssam Jang), 33 tips for cutting, 39
Chamkkae Tang), 80 Casserole with Kimchi and Pork, 140 with Crudité Platter (Yachae wa Ssa Vegetable Porridge, Creamy (Yache Jook),
Mushrooms and Green Peppers, Stuffed freezing for later use, 28 jang), 39 129
(Bohseot Piman Jeon), 124 Korean Fried (Bokkum Bap), 138 Spicy Sauce (dressing for Fresh Tuna Vegetable Rice Bowl, Seasoned (Dolsot
Seasoned Vegetable Rice Bowl (Dolsot Sashimi Salad), 62 Bibimbap), 137
Namul, xv, 57 Bibimbap), 137 Spicy Zucchini Hot Pot (Aehobak Gochu- Vegetable Soup (Basic), 35
Nine Treasure Roll-Ups (Kujeoulpan), 42 Sticky with Dried Fruit and Nuts (Heukmi jang Chigae), 77 Vegetable Stock (Yache Soup), 35
Crêpes for, 43 Joomeokbap), 143 Spinach, Seasoned (Sigeumchi Namul), 73 Vegetables, Mixed Grilled (Yachae Gui), 129
Noodles, Glass with Beef and Vegetables Topped with a Medley of Fresh Sprouts Squash and Potatoes, Simmered (Gamja Vinaigrette, 65
(Japchae), 141 (Saessak Bimimbap), 134 Jorim), 123
Noodles, Summer with Vegetables (Bibim Roasted Corn Tea (Ockssusu Cha), 155 Ssam Jang (Spicy Miso Dipping Sauce), 33 White Rice (Hin Bap), 28
Guksoo), 132 See also Corn kernels (roasted) “Starter kit” for Korean cooking, xv, 27–35
Roasted Sesame Seeds (tongkkae), 29 “Sticky rice,” 23 Yachae Gui (Mixed Grilled Vegetables), 129
Ockssusu Jeon (Corn Fritters), 54 Crushed (Kkaesogum), 29 Stir-fries, Vegetable Matchsticks, 39 Yachae wa Ssamjang (Crudité Platter with
Oi Bokkum Namul (Seasoned Cucumbers Sundubu Chigae (Tofu and Clam Hot Pot), Spicy Miso Dip), 39
with Sesame Seeds), 72 Saenggang Cha (Ginger Tea), 155 84 Yache Jook (Creamy Vegetable Porridge),
Oi Kaji Salad (Cucumber and Grilled Egg- Saenggang Jelly (Ginger Jelly), 148 Sweet Soy Base Sauce (Jomi Ganjang), 31 129
plant), 59 Saengsun Jeon (Pan-fried Cod with Broccoli in Cucumbers Stuffed with Beef, Peppers Yache Soup (Vegetable Stock), 35
Oi Kimchi (Cucumber Kimchi), 67 Rabe), 118 and Mushrooms, 47 Yangbaechu Kimchi (Cabbage Kimchi), 67
Oi Muchim (Seasoned Spicy Cucumbers), Saengsun Jorim (Fish Fillets with a Peppery in Glazed Hard-Boiled Eggs, Walnuts and Yangnyum Ganjang (Soy Scallion Dipping
73 Sweet Glaze), 113 Hot Peppers, 44 Sauce), 32
Oi Naeng-guk (Chilled Cucumber Soup), 82 Saengsun Yangnyum Gui (Whole Baked simple version (Gandanhan Jomi Yangpa Jangachi (Pickled Pearl Onions), 61
Oi Sun (Cucumbers Stuffed with Beef, Pep- Fish), 116 Ganjang), 30 Yooja Cha (Citrus Honey Tea), 155
pers and Mushrooms), 47 Saessak Bibimbap (Rice Topped with a in Sweet and Salty Glazed Soybeans, 45 Yooja Dubu Sherbert (Citrusy Tofu Sher-
Ojingeoh Salad (Warm Spicy Squid Salad), Medley of Fresh Sprouts), 134 bert), 153
112 Sauces, importance of, 27 Tangy Red Pepper Sauce (Cho Gochujang), Youngkye Baeksook (Stewed Cornish Hens
Seafood. See Fish and seafood 32 Stuffed with Rice), 106
Pa Muchim (Seasoned Shredded Leeks), 60 Seasoned Red Pepper Paste (Gochujang Teok Sanjuk (Beef Skewers with Green
Pancakes Yangnyum), 30 Onions), 103 Zucchini and Onion Pancakes (Aehobak
table, 48 Seasoned Shredded Leeks (Pa Muchim), 60 Tips Yangpa Jeon), 50
tips, 48 Seaweed, 22 beef stock intensification, 34 Zucchini (Spicy) Hot Pot (Aehobak Gochu-
Pickled Pearl Onions (Yangpa Jangachi), 61 and Cucumber Salad (Miyeok Muchim), dumplings, freezing, 41 jang Chigae), 77
Pine Nut Mustard Dressing (Jat Sauce), 33 65 garlic preparing and storing, 29

index 159

156-160_ResourceBiblioAck.indd 159 3/5/09 11:14:02 AM