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A DAY
IN
DEBAN
Deban is situated at the boundary of
Namdapha national park in Changlang district
of Arunachal Pradesh (AP) and is named after
Deban nala which is a small tributary of
Dehing River also called as Noa Dehing River.
CHANGLANG
The journey to Deban deviates from
Jagun, a small place in Assam at Assam‐
DEBAN
Arunachal border; the right hand side road
goes to Jairampur (a border town of AP) and
the left hand side road goes to Kharsang
(another small town of AP, important for its
oil producing fields). After Kharsang one will
find Miao (situated at about 39 km from
Jagun ) and after traveling a distance of about
25 km one will reach M’Pen check gate of
Namdapha Tiger reserve. The entry pass to
Namdapha is given at the M’Pen check gate.
Pruning of tea bushes is a
common view along the Miao‐
M’pen road.
The beautifully looking
trees standing serially one after
another and tenderly pruned
tea bushes mainly by female
workers manually, gives a
feeling of synchronization
within wilderness.
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The large gate welcoming the visitors to the Namdapha national park
which is a part of Project tiger scheme.
Project Tiger Scheme has been under implementation since 1973
as a Centrally Sponsored Scheme of Government of India. The main
objective of Project Tiger is to ensure a viable population of tiger in India
for scientific , economic , aesthetic , cultural and ecological values. Tiger
Reserves are constituted on a 'core‐buffer' strategy. The core area is kept
free of biotic disturbances and forestry operations, where collection of
minor forest produce, grazing, human disturbances are not allowed
within. However, the buffer zone is managed as a ‘multiple use area’
Namdapha National Park is rich in
biodiversity because of its
location at the confluence of the
Indo‐Malayan and Palearctic
biogeographic realms and its
presence amidst two hotspots of
global biodiversity (Eastern
Himalaya and Indo‐Burma).
Namdapha boasts of presence of
4 different species of big wild cats
within same forest.
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A flourishing agroecosystem along the banks
of river Noa Dehing with dense forest and
mountains on the adjacent side. Cattles form
an important part of their socioeconomy.
Beautiful small huts/ traditional
houses can be seen easily with space
underneath. The traditional homegardens in
the backyard and open spaces, and
maintaining harmony with nature, are
prefect examples of sustainable livelihood
pattern with seemingly no impact on the
environment.
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The lonely road in the jungle is traversed by the
inhabitants (wild animals) and is a lifeline of the
voyagers. Tourists and forest officials also mark
their presence often.
These roads with dense forest on one
side and river valley on other in most places,
form an edge of the forest. The tourists and
other traverser continuously in his
subconscious mind expects some body to
meet, other than his fellow man.
The Anamica falls (Anamica in Hindi
means ‘without name’) in M’pen‐
Deban road is a resting place for local
trekkers mainly the Lisu tribe. The
soothing sound and a view like that
made in wallpaper by a painter
refresh and rejuvenates them.
It’s a voyage of about 6 days
for the people who travel between
Vijoynagar and Miao. Vijoynagar is
the last station in this road situated at
Indo‐Myanmar border and is
inhabited mainly by Lisu and some
other tribes, and Nepali families. We
found four young boys resting on the
rocks. I asked name of one, he replied
Push Poshan. I talked to him for a
while and also asked them for one
snap.
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A glimpse of the mighty Noa Dehing River
which has made the tracts fertile,
suitable for agriculture and ultimately for
human habitations. Noa Dehing is a
major tributary of River Brahmaputra.
The river accompanies all along the
journey towards the park. The roaring
sound of the river attracted us at many
places and led us to stop the vehicle and
listen it carefully. We could not resist
ourselves to watch and take photographs
of the beauty of nature.
The ‘hookoo’ sound of Hoolock gibbon at the junction of river bank and forest edges was astounding. The
Hoolock Gibbon is a tree dwelling ape found in North Eastern India. It is the only ape found in the Indian
subcontinent. It is characterized by its white brows because of which it is also called the "White Browed Gibbon."
Hoolock Gibbons are considered as threatened by habitat loss.
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A lama village in the bank
of Noa Dehing. One can
easily understand the calm
and peace with which
these people are living.
Lamas are among several
ethnic human societies
that are living in and
around the park. The Lama
is a migrant community
from Bhutan that came
during 1963–64.
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The picturesque guest house amidst
the high mountains and jungles gives
a feeling of bollywood set of 70’s. One
can relax there in the winter morning
in the big lawns and order for tea and
snacks. The friendly nature of staffs;
sometimes seems to be hesitant and
in another while curious to talk to
tourist is a wonderful experience.
The apparent care taker with
an army jacket and goggles greeted us
with a warm hand shake.
Walls of the dining hall consists of two
wallpapers showing separately the
magnificent animals including the large
cats and small mammals. One of the
staff felt pride to show us the
photographs and describing about the
abundant biodiversity of the forest.
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The variety of microhabitats is suitable place for sustaining different types of lives. The sandy bank on one
side and the boulder surfaces creates unique ecosystems. The big grasses are the best choices of big cats
resting at the river banks. The boulders are important for several insects and microorganisms often
neglected by tourists except the specialized researchers.
10
While we reached the river bank suddenly an idea
came to our mind to have a boat ride and go across
another bank. Our guide went to the guest house
and brought the boatman.
While we were standing and waiting for the
boatman we suddenly saw a man with half pant is
following our guide. The boatman introduced
himself as Harindar Prasad from a small village in
Dewaria in Gorakhpur, UP. Suddenly he started
emptying the water which accumulated inside the
boat with the help of a container. Although it was
so normal an activity, but appeared curious to most
of us.
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Deban nala, a mountain rivulet and a tributary of Noa
Dehing appears to be irresistant to meet the later,
running through stones and rocks, surfing, and creating
noise. These rapids could be crossed on foot also.
The meeting place
of Deban nala and
Noa Dehing River
can fascinate
anybody. The two
water bodies
creates a heaven at
its meeting point
with different
characteristics; one
appears to be calm
and cool while
other jumping over
the boulders and
creating eye
catching white
surfs.
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The Noa‐Dehing, although appears to be a
silent river from outside but once you enter
into it with the boat, you can feel the
undercurrent. The boatman has to struggle
hard and follow the rule of physics to cross a
small distance.
The gorgeous river amidst the mountains appears to be waiting only for us. It really makes one
understand what is known as feeling the nature.
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All said and done, Deban is a place acting as a gate to enter Namdapha national park and an area earmarked
for an ambitious national project site, Project Tiger. Every year government of India and International
organisations spend crores of rupees to develop and promote the well being of forest , to save India’s largest
national park. The forest has its importance ecologically; containing large number of trees acting as carbon
sink, ecological services provided by the forest etc., socioeconomically; sustaining human habitations inside
and surrounding the forests, and strategically; bordering Myanmar and China. Namdapha National Park is the
largest national park in India in terms of area. It is located in the Eastern Himalayan sub‐region and is
recognized as one of the richest areas in biodiversity in India, a true wilderness and enchanting beauty of lush
green vegetation, impenetrable pristine and virgin forests. It spans an area of 1985 km2 with 177km2 in buffer
zone and 1808 km2 in the core area. The park is located between the Dapha bum range of the Mishmi Hills and
the Patkai range with a wide altitudinal range between 200 m asl and 4571 m asl.
It is observed during the journey that the whole lot of population in and around Vijoynagar (beyond
the park) is literally cut off from the main land. Even today they travel a distance of less than 200km in about
5‐6 days. The entire socioeconomic structure of that area is largely dependent on this road.The requirement of
a national park is such that the human interference inside should be as minimum as possible. Even the
‘kuccha’ road inside the park is practically a disturbance to the wilds. Now the question arises who is
important, man or animal. The socioeconomic development of the community on other side is at stake of wild
life inside the park. I have a friend from Lisu community who is highly educated and is well aware of the
current trends in and around the world. After discussing with him I can well understand that they desperately
need development mainly infrastructure like roads. This is the high time that experts from different fields;
environmentalist, engineer, sociologist, community psychologist, administrater, social worker, community
leader should sit together sincerely and try for solution. No extreme step can work; we cant discard either man
or animal. A comprehensive research (in all the above mentioned subjects) in this matter will help before
taking any step.
Lets hope a better future for all.
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CONTACT ME:
pulakdas.ecology@gmail.com
Acknowledgement: Mr. Rajesh Mishra, Mr. Sanjay Asri, Mr. Santanu
THANK YOU
Sarmah, Mr. Akhithu Yobin, Mr. Deep Dutta, Forest guide and Deban guest
house authorities.