Professional Documents
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Food News No. 5 • May/June 2005 Alsiano
through during preparation. The audi- Brisket of beef poached for 2 Mackerel susichimi with ice
ence had the opportunity to taste the days at 58°C cream
various dishes. Molecular gastronomy is not only Another untraditional dishes, was
about unexpected flavour pairings, but mackerel susichimi with ice cream. This
Tomato wine gum with caviar also about how to optimize the raw dish was probably inspired by the fa-
pressé materials through preparation. At the mous English chef Heston Blumenthal,
As the name of this dish indicates, we show, brisket poached for 2 days at owner of “The Fat Duck”, who is very
are dealing with one of the more pe- 58°C was served with green strawber- fond of serving all types of dishes with
culiar and extreme dishes consisting ries pickled like gherkins and sauce ice cream or sorbet – e.g. sardine on
of a tomato gel along with caviar juice based on gravy with boiled egg yolk toast as sorbet.
served in a pipette. It clearly served as emulsifier. The brisket was poached
as a provocative element to kick off in a vacuum pack to maintain the aro- For this dish, the cook had actually
the show. matics. “borrowed” an ingredient from the
industry: The mackerel susichimi was
The basic idea of this appetizer was It was indeed very delicious and ten- mackerel “glued” together by Activa
that a salty taste is pleasant after eat- der. The vacuum pack ensured a higher EB (enzyme that binds protein) before
ing something sweet. The wine gum yield and kept the meat very juicy and it was poached for 40 minutes at 40°C.
was prepared on a tomato base and tasty. The professor at KVL added that The ice cream was made of hot
pectin and then dusted with smoked mackerel, tomato, red
freeze-dried pulverized to- onion, cornichons, milk and egg
mato. Whether it was on pur- H2C=CH CH3 yolk, which were blended, fro-
pose or not is difficult to de- zen and then run through a
CH2
cide, but the pectin resulted in Pacojet, which makes it very
a very soft and inelastic con- H3C A B CH creamy.
sistency/texture quite far from N N
what is traditionally perceived Fe(II) It was funny to see that the
as wine gum. Pectin is not the N N
cooks use the technique of glu-
obvious industrial choice for a ing fish together with the aid of
H3C CH3
wine gum and may have been D C enzymes. At Alsiano, we have
chosen by the cook because it worked with this for many years
is a “green” ingredient. A and are sole supplier in Den-
number of other possibilities
-
OOC-CH2-CH2 CH2-CH2-COO- mark of Activa EB, which is pro-
might, however, have given a duced by Ajinomoto. It is for in-
better – or at least different – this method is brilliant for making all stance possible to make cold smoked
mouth-feel. types of tough meat tender! However, salmon blocks in whatever shape you
do not try this at home unless you have like – e.g. heart shaped or shaped so
In general, the wine gum “family” a very precise oven. If the tempera- that it will fit a bagel. Concerning leg-
embraces textures varying from hard, ture comes over 63°C, the myoglobin islation, selling of products with Activa
short, crisp to long, soft and gummy. will be degraded and the meat will EB in Denmark is not approved, but
“Vingummi” (wine gum) is a common turn brown. If, on the other hand, the exporting the products to other coun-
name for confectionery consisting of temperature is below 58°C there is a tries including the EU is permitted. Be-
glucose syrup, starch/gelatine, acid risk of bacteriological problems. A com- sides fish applications, Activa EB can
and flavour. The English language dis- mon household oven typically varies also be used in meat and dairy appli-
tinguishes between “gums” and “jel- +/- 10°C. cations.
lies”. Gums have starch as a thickener,
while jellies have gelatine as texturizer. From an industrial point of view, long- The “Tastiness and Science” show was
The composite product is named wine term roasting meat could be an excel- an excellent foretaste of what molecu-
gums and contains both starch and lent opportunity to use the production lar gastronomy can contribute in the
gelatine. A third variant is pectin-jel- equipment and capacity more opti- field of improving methods of cooking
lies – in Denmark known as “flæsk” mally. One could consider using the and new taste sensations. Transfer of
(“pork”). equipment during the night for long- knowledge from cooks to the industry
time cooking and have the product fin- and vice versa could in future lead to
Tomato wine gum with caviar pressé ished in the morning. Also the use of the development of interesting inno-
was not particularly tasty, and the cook boiled egg yolk as emulsifier is inter- vative products for the benefit of the
who made it could definitely learn esting – and for those concerned about end-user.
something from the food industry about salmonella in mayonnaise, boiled egg
making wine gums. However, the dish yolk can also be used here instead of
achieved its goal as being provocative. raw.
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MULTIPLE APPLICATIONS
Food
FoodNews
News No.15 •• February
No. May/June2004
2005 Alsiano
Alsiano
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MULTIPLE APPLICATIONS
Food News No. 5 • May/June 2005 Alsiano
>> to give an excellent performance in tion. To reduce the salt level of an ex- clared. They can thus be listed as natu-
comparison to the original recipe. To isting formulation with 50%, replace ral flavourings. In addition, the UnSal
evaluate UnSal-20, simply reduce your the 50% with 40% potassium chlo- range is non-GMO and vegetarian.
current salt level by 20% and add the ride and 10% UnSal-50.
same amount of UnSal-20 as a direct Article 112
replacement. Applications
UnSal has proven a successful salt
UnSal-50 replacer in:
For higher levels of replacement,
UnSal-50 is used in combination with soups and sauces
potassium chloride to achieve the de- marinades
sired ‘salty’ impact without any of the
bitter or metallic notes normally asso- savoury biscuits and pies
ciated with the use of potassium chlo- prepared meals
ride. The UnSal-50 provides two func-
tions in the recipe: It enhances the
salty taste and eliminates the bitter, Clean label
metallic taste associated with potas- UnSal-20 and UnSal-50 are based on
sium chloride. This way, you receive a natural food extracts and do not con-
“true” salty taste by using a combina- tain additives that need to be de-
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MULTIPLE APPLICATIONS
Food News No. 5 • May/June 2005 Alsiano
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MULTIPLE APPLICATIONS
Food News No. 5 • May/June 2005 Alsiano
Figure 1: Slow release of energy A variety of performance claims are of overweight and obesity continues
with MALTISORB® maltitol: available for products containing to be an undeniable and worrying fact
MALTISORB® maltitol. The variations of life. The public authorities and
are a function of the finished product health professionals are following de-
and of the country in which it is di- velopments closely and putting the
stributed – for instance ‘without su- nutritional qualities of foods to the test.
gars’; ‘without added sugars’; ‘low in The food industry is reviewing its tra-
sugars’; ‘reduced in sugars’; ‘reduced ditional recipes and is diversifying its
in calories’, etc. ranges to include ‘no added sugars’
and even ‘sugar-free’ products.
At first used in confectionery products
to combat dental caries, MALTISORB® In this context, MALTISORB® maltitol
maltitol now serves as a sugar substi- is taking a leading role in the deve-
tute for nutritional reasons and hence lopment of healthier products. It is the
better-balanced food. Today, maltitol perfect substitute for sucrose, offering
plays a role in a variety of confection- a problem-free approach not only to
ery, in biscuits, in viennoiseries, ice producing confectionery, biscuits,
>> Glucose and energy are released pro- creams, dairy desserts, sauces and viennoiseries and breads, but also
gressively over an extended period. fruit-based products. Maltitol is particu- sauces, ice creams, frozen desserts,
This means that the sensation of sati- larly well known for its chocolate ap- dairy desserts, etc.
ety will last longer (figure 1). This fact plications, reflected in the large
is especially useful when it is desirable number of sugar-free chocolate pro- MALTISORB® maltitol, the ‘polyol of
to limit snacking of all kinds (i.e.: in- duct launches worldwide. A search choice’ in the field of sugar substitu-
creasing the time between food in- made on Mintel (Gnpd database) tion, offers the modern nutritional be-
takes without generating a sensation showed that in 2004, more than half nefits called for by consumers without
of hunger) and to permit better man- of the new chocolate confectionery denying them the traditional good fla-
agement of body weight. launches with a “low/no/reduced vour.
sugar” claim were made with
MALTISORB® maltitol has a caloric maltitol. In the next issue of FoodNews, a case
value officially fixed at 2.4 Kcal/g3 in study on MALTISORB® maltitol and its
the EU. Conclusions use in baked goods applications will
be covered.
The wave of ‘healthy eating’ is con-
Safe for the teeth tinuing to gather pace and is now sig- Article 113
Non-fermentable by the oral flora, nificantly modifying consumption pat-
non-acidogenic and non-cariogenic: Visit the new web site:
terns and purchasing habits. Mean-
MALTISORB® maltitol is ‘safe for teeth’. while, the increase in the prevalence www.maltitol-maltisorb.roquette.com
Products based on MALTISORB ®
maltitol therefore meet the scientific
criteria determining permission to use
the logo of the international References:
Sympadent campaign, as long as no
1
other fermentable ingredients are World Health Organisation (WHO) di-
present. etary guidelines. Technical report Se-
ries 916, 2003.
Regulation and possible per- 2
SLAMA 1991: Study of maltitol’s gly-
formance claims for food products caemic and insulinaemic index.
with MALTISORB® Roquette Frères, internal report.
Certified Kosher and Halal,
3
MALTISORB® maltitol is authorised for Directive 90/496/CEE
use in most countries of the world. In
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the European Union, MALTISORB ® Directive 94/35/CD (JOCE L.234 of
maltitol can be used as: 10-09-94)
A sweetener1 5
Directive 95/2/CE (JOCE L. 61 of 18-
An additive for technological uses 03-95)
other than sweetening2, i.e. as
humectants, stabilizer, bulking
agent.
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MULTIPLE APPLICATIONS
Food News No. 5 • May/June 2005 Alsiano
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MULTIPLE APPLICATIONS
Food News No. 5 • May/June 2005 Alsiano
8
SAUCES & DRESSINGS
Food News No. 5 • May/June 2005 Alsiano
The process
It is very important to apply the high-
est standards when producing mayon-
naise. The type and quality of raw
materials, duration and speed of shear,
and the incorporation of the ingredi-
ents all have an effect on the final pro-
duct. For instance, breaking up the
droplets of oil into fractions makes a
reduction in the speed of creaming
possible (proportional to the squared
diameter of the particles). Similarly, for
microbiological reasons or to develop
the function of certain ingredients, a
warming stage of the water phase can
be introduced before emulsification.
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SAUCES & DRESSINGS
Food News No. 5 • May/June 2005 Alsiano
Summary
Figure 1: The effect of WestHove Maize 1000R on the size
In brief, the advantages of the func-
of fat molecules
tional flours from WestHove are as fol-
A B C lows:
WM 1000R 0% 2% 4%
Lighter non-jellified smooth
Oil 57% 45% 35%
appearance
Water 20% 30% 38%
The presence of proteins reduces
fat content
Shear stability and tolerance of
thermal treatments.
Reduced acid taste giving a
more subtle flavour
Possibility of reducing fat content
thus reducing cost of production
A more pleasant less oily texture
>> an area reserved for sensory analysis. is more smoother and less jellified. in the mouth
For instance, in-depth taste tests have The acid profile is more subtle with Guaranteed traceability
been conducted and analyzed, to dis- the WestHove product.
tinguish and characterize two types of Clean label
The mouth-feel is significantly less
mayonnaise, which were produced us- Environment friendly
oily.
ing the same procedure:
At their laboratory,
1. Traditional mayonnaise Figure 2: Taste profile of mayonnaise with WestHove has the facilities
(74%fat content) WM1000R and standard mayonnaise to help food manufacturers
2. Low-fat mayonnaise Acidity either improve existing reci-
(51% fat content + 2% pes and processes, or help
WestHove Maize 1000R) them to develop new pro-
ducts within a strict frame-
The results of the test are shown work of confidentiality.
in figure 2.
Impression of fat It is essential for WestHove
The above compilation of the to provide a meaningful
specific profile for the two dif- partnership in an ever
ferent mayonnaise recipes de- changing and competitive
monstrates some interesting market place.
points:
Standard
The texture containing func- Not doughy WM 1000R
tional flour from WestHove Article 116
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