Workshop Manual C

Engine unit 2(0)

740/DP, 740/MS5
 Workshop manual

740/DP, 740/MS5

Contents
Page
Safety precautions ............................................................................................................ 2
General information ........................................................................................................... 5
Repair instructions ............................................................................................................ 6
Presentation .................................................................................................................... 8
Cooling system ................................................................................................................. 9
Lubricating system .......................................................................................................... 11
Fault tracing scheme, engine .......................................................................................... 12
Chapter 1 Overhaul data ........................................................................................... 13
Chapter 2 Special tools ............................................................................................. 17
Chapter 3 Electrical system ...................................................................................... 21
3A Wiring diagrams ........................................................................................ 23
3B Fault tracing, actions charging system ..................................................... 27
3C Fault tracing, actions starting system ...................................................... 33
Chapter 4 Cylinder head and related parts ................................................................ 37
4A Fault tracing and actions, fuel system ...................................................... 39
4B Removing the related parts ....................................................................... 51
4C Repairing the cooling system ................................................................... 55
4D Repairing the valve system ...................................................................... 57
4E Installing the cylinder head ....................................................................... 63
4F Installing the related parts ........................................................................ 65
Chapter 5 Cylinder block with related parts .............................................................. 69
5A Removing the related parts ....................................................................... 71
5B Repairing the crankshaft movement ......................................................... 73
5C Repairing the camshaft ............................................................................. 87
5D Fault tracing and actions ignition system ................................................. 93
5E Installation of related parts ....................................................................... 99

1
 Safety precautions
Introduction
This Workshop Manual contains technical data,
descriptions and repair instructions for Volvo Penta
products or product versions contained in the con-
tents list. Ensure that the correct workshop literature
is being used.
Read the safety information and the Workshop
Manual “General Information” and “Repair Instruc-
tions” carefully before starting work.
Important
In this book and on the engine you will find the follow-
ing special warning symbols.
WARNING! If these instructions are not followed there
is a danger of personal injury,
extensive damage to the product or serious
mechanical malfunction.
IMPORTANT! Used to draw your attention to some-
thing that can cause damage, product malfunction or
damage to property.
NOTE! Used to draw your attention to important information
that will facilitate work or operations.
Below is a summary of the risks and safety precau-
tions you should always observe or carry out when
operating or servicing the engine.
Immobilize the engine by turning off the power
supply to the engine at the main switch (switch-
es) and lock it (them) in the OFF position before
starting work. Set up a warning notice at the en-
gine control point or helm.
Generally, all servicing should be carried out
with the engine switched off. Some work (carry-
ing out certain adjustments for example) re-
quires the engine to be running. Approaching a
running engine is dangerous. Loose clothing or
long hair can fasten in rotating parts and cause
serious personal injury.
If working in proximity to a running engine, care-
less movements or a dropped tool can result in
personal injury. Avoid burns. Take precautions
to avoid hot surfaces (exhausts, turbochargers,
charge air pipes and starter elements etc.) and
liquids in supply lines and hoses when the en-
gine is running or has been turned off immedi-
ately prior to starting work on it. Reinstall all
protective parts removed during service opera-
tions before starting the engine.
2
Check that the warning or information decals on
the product are always clearly visible. Replace
decals that have been damaged or painted over.
Engine with turbocharger: Never start the engine
without installing the air cleaner (ACL). The ro-
tating compressor in the Turbo can cause seri-
ous personal injury. Foreign objects entering the
intake ducts can also cause mechanical dam-
age.
Never use start spray or similar to start the en-
gine. The starter element may cause an explo-
sion in the inlet manifold. Danger of personal in-
jury.
Avoid opening the filler cap for engine coolant
system (freshwater cooled engines) when the
engine is still hot. Steam or hot coolant can
spray out. Open the coolant filler cap carefully
and slowly to release pressure before removing
the cap completely. Take great care if a cock,
plug or engine coolant line must be removed
from a hot engine. It is difficult to anticipate in
which direction steam or hot coolant can spray
out.
Hot oil can cause burns. Avoid skin contact with
hot oil. Ensure that the lubrication system is not
under pressure before commencing work on it.
Never start or operate the engine with the oil fill-
er cap removed, otherwise oil could be ejected.
Stop the engine and close the sea cock before
carrying out operations on the engine cooling
system.
Only start the engine in a well-ventilated area. If
operating the engine in an enclosed space, en-
sure that exhaust gases and crankcase ventila-
tion emissions are ventilated out of the working
area.
Always use protective goggles where there is
a danger of pieces of metal, sparks from grind-
ing, acid or other chemicals being thrown into
your eyes. Your eyes are very sensitive, injury
can lead to loss of sight!
Avoid skin contact with oil. Long-term or re-
peated contact with oil can remove the natural
oils from your skin. The result can be irritation,
dry skin, eczema and other skin problems.
Used oil is more dangerous to health than new
oil. Use protective gloves and avoid using oil-
soaked clothes and rags. Wash regularly, es-
pecially before meals. Use the correct barrier
cream to prevent dry skin and to make clean-
ing your skin easier.
Most chemicals used in products (engine and
transmission oils, glycol, petrol and diesel oil)
and workshop chemicals (solvents and paints)
are hazardous to health Read the instructions
on the product packaging carefully! Always fol-
low safety instructions (using breathing appa-
ratus, protective goggles and gloves for ex-
ample). Ensure that other personnel are not
unwittingly exposed to hazardous substances
(by breathing them in for example). Ensure
that ventilation is good. Handle used and
excess chemicals according to instructions.
Be extremely careful when tracing leaks in the
fuel system and testing fuel injection nozzles.
Use protective goggles! The jet ejected from a
fuel injection nozzle is under very high pres-
sure, it can penetrate body tissue and cause
serious injury There is a danger of blood poi-
soning.
All fuels and many chemicals are inflammable.
Ensure that a naked flame or sparks cannot ig-
nite fuel or chemicals. Combined with air in
certain ratios, petrol, some solvents and hy-
drogen from batteries are easily inflammable
and explosive. Smoking is prohibited! Ensure
that ventilation is good and that the necessary
safety precautions have been taken before
carrying out welding or grinding work. Always
have a fire extinguisher to hand in the work-
place.
Store oil and fuel-soaked rags and fuel and oil
filters safely. In certain conditions oil-soaked
rags can spontaneously ignite. Used fuel and
oil filters are environmentally dangerous waste
and must be deposited at an approved site for
destruction together with used lubricating oil,
contaminated fuel, paint remnants, solvent, de-
greasing agents and waste from washing
parts.
Never allow a naked flame or electric sparks
near the batteries. Never smoke in proximity to
the batteries. The batteries give off hydrogen
gas during charging which when mixed with air
can form an explosive gas – oxyhydrogen.
This gas is easily ignited and highly volatile.
Incorrect connection of the battery can cause
a spark which is sufficient to cause an explo-
sion with resulting damage. Do not disturb bat-
tery connections when starting the engine
(spark risk) and do not lean over batteries.
Never mix up the positive and negative battery
terminals when installing. Incorrect installation
can result in serious damage to electrical
equipment. Refer to wiring diagrams.
Always use protective goggles when charging
and handling batteries. The battery electrolyte
contains extremely corrosive sulfuric acid. If
this comes into contact with the skin, wash im-
mediately with soap and plenty of water. If bat-
tery acid comes into contact with the eyes, im-
mediately flush with copious amounts of water
and obtain medical assistance.
Turn off the engine and turn off power at main
switch(es) before carrying out work on the
electrical system.
Clutch adjustments must be carried out with
the engine turned off.
3
 Use the lifting eyes mounted on the engine/re- Components in the electrical system, ignition
verse gear when lifting the drive unit. system (gasoline engines) and fuel system on
Always check that lifting equipment is in good Volvo Penta products are designed and con-
condition and has sufficient load capacity to lift structed to minimize the risk of fire and explo-
the engine (engine weight including reverse sion. The engine must not be run in areas
gear and any extra equipment installed). where there are explosive materials.
To ensure safe handling and to avoid damaging
Always use fuels recommended by Volvo Pen-
engine components on top of the engine, use a
ta. Refer to the Instruction Book. The use of
lifting beam to raise the engine. All chains and
lower quality fuels can damage the engine. On
cables should run parallel to each other and as
a diesel engine poor quality fuel can cause the
perpendicular as possible in relation to the top
control rod to seize and the engine to overrev
of the engine.
with the resulting risk of damage to the engine
If extra equipment is installed on the engine al- and personal injury. Poor fuel quality can also
tering its center of gravity, a special lifting de- lead to higher maintenance costs.
vice is required to achieve the correct balance
for safe handling. Observe the following rules when cleaning with
high-pressure water jets. Never direct the water
Never carry out work on an engine suspended
jet at seals, rubber hoses or electrical compo-
on a hoist.
nents. Never use a high pressure jet when
washing the engine.
Never remove heavy components alone, even
where secure lifting equipment such as se-
cured blocks are being used. Even where lift-
ing equipment is being used it is best to carry
out the work with two people; one to operate
the lifting equipment and the other to ensure
that components are not trapped and damaged
when being lifted.
When working on-board ensure that there is
sufficient space to remove components without
danger of injury or damage.

4
 General information
About the workshop manual
This Workshop Manual contains technical data,
descriptions, and overhaul instructions for the standard
versions of 740/DP and 740/MS5.
Only the engine model designation are referenced
exclusively throughout this Workshop Manual, without the
drive/reverse gear. Where there are differences between
engine units for the drive and reverse gear versions, the
complete designation is stated, e.g. 740/MS5.
The engine serial number is indicated on the Data Plate
and the Decal (see page 8). The engine designation and
serial number shall always be given in correspondence to
the Service and Parts Department.
The Workshop Manual shows the work procedures
carried out on a 740A/MS5 engine equipped with
freshwater cooling. The procedures are identical on other
versions unless otherwise stated in text or illustrations.
Please note that the illustrations used do not always fully
correspond with the other engine version. The
abbreviation FWC is used for freshwater cooled engine
and SWC is used for sea water cooled engine. The
product designation and number should be given in all
correspondence about the product.
This Workshop Manual has been developed primarily
for Volvo Penta service workshops and qualified
personnel. Persons using this book are assumed to
have a grounding in marine drive systems and be
able to carry out related mechanical and electrical
work.
Volvo Penta is continuously developing their prod-
ucts. We therefore reserve the right to make
changes. All the information contained in this book is
based on product data available at the time of going
to print. Any essential changes or modifications
introduced into production or updated or revised
service methods introduced after the date of publi-
cation will be provided in the form of Service Bulle-
tins.
Replacement parts
Replacement parts for electrical and fuel systems are
subject to statutory requirements (US Coast Guard
Safety Regulations for example). Volvo Penta
Genuine parts meet these requirements. Any type of
damage which results from the use of non-original
Volvo Penta replacement parts for the product will
not be covered under any warranty provided by
Volvo Penta.
5
 Repair instructions
The working methods described in the Service
Manual apply to work carried out in a workshop. The
engine has been removed from the boat and is
installed in an engine fixture. Unless otherwise
stated reconditioning work which can be carried out
with the engine in place follows the same working
method.
Warning symbols occurring in the Workshop Manual
(for their meaning see Safety precaution)
WARNING!
IMPORTANT!
NOTE!
are not in any way comprehensive since it is impos-
sible to predict every circumstance under which
service work or repairs may be carried out. For this
reason we can only highlight the risks that can arise
when work is carried out incorrectly in a well-
equipped workshop using working methods and tools
developed by us.
All procedures for which there are Volvo Penta
special tools in this Workshop Manual are carried
out using these. Special tools are developed to
rationalize working methods and make procedures
as safe as possible. It is therefore the responsibility
of any person using tools or working methods other
than the ones recommended by us to ensure that
there is no danger of injury, damage or malfunction
resulting from these.
In some cases there may be special safety precau-
tions and instructions for the use of tools and chem-
icals contained in this Workshop Manual. These
special instructions should always be followed if there
are no separate instructions in the Workshop Manual.
Certain elementary precautions and common sense
can prevent most risks arising. A clean workplace
and engine eliminates much of the danger of injury
and malfunction.
It is of the greatest importance that no dirt or foreign
particles get into the fuel system, lubrication sys-
tem, intake system, turbocharger, bearings and
seals when they are being worked on. The result can
be malfunction or a shorter operational life.
6
Our joint responsibility
Each engine consists of many connected systems
and components. If a component deviates from its
technical specification the environmental impact of an
otherwise good engine may be increased significantly.
It is therefore vital that wear tolerances are main-
tained, that systems that can be adjusted are adjusted
properly and that Volvo Penta Genuine Parts as used.
The engine Maintenance Schedule must be followed.
Some systems, such as the components in the fuel
system, require special expertise and special testing
equipment for service and maintenance. Some com-
ponents are sealed at the factory for environmental
reasons. No work should be carried out on sealed
components except by authorized personnel.
Bear in mind that most chemicals used on boats are
harmful to the environment if used incorrectly. Volvo
Penta recommends the use of biodegradable
degreasing agents for cleaning engine components,
unless otherwise stated in a workshop manual. Take
special care when working on-board, that oil and
waste is taken for destruction and is not accidentally
pumped into the environment with bilge water.
Tightening torques
Tightening torques for vital joints that must be tight-
ened with a torque wrench are listed in workshop
manual “Technical Data”: “Tightening Torques” and are
contained in work descriptions in this Manual. All
torques apply for cleaned threads, screw heads and
mating surfaces. Torques apply for lightly oiled or dry
threads. If lubricants, locking fluid or sealing com-
pound are required for a screwed joint this information
will be contained in the work description and in “Tight-
ening Torques” Where no tightening torque is stated for
a joint use the general tightening torques according to
the tables below. The tightening torques stated are a
guide and the joint does not have to be tightened using
a torque wrench.
Dimension Tightening Torques
Nm lbf.ft
M5 6 4.4
M6 10 7.4
M8 25 18.4
M10 50 36.9
M12 80 59.0
M14 140 103.3
Tightening torques-protractor
(angle) tightening
Tightening using both a torque setting
and a protractor angle requires that
first the recommended torque is
applied using a torque wrench and
then the recommended angle is added
according to the protractor scale.
Example: a 90° protractor tightening
means that the joint is tightened a
further 1/4 turn in one operation after
the stated tightening torque has been
applied.
Locknuts
Do not re-use lock nuts that have been removed
during dismantling as they have reduced service life
when re-used – use new nuts when assembling or
reinstalling. For lock nuts with a plastic insert such
as Nylock® the tightening torque stated in the table
is reduced if the Nylock® nut has the same head
height as a standard hexagonal nut without plastic
insert. Reduce the tightening torque by 25% for bolt
size 8 mm or larger. Where Nylock® nuts are higher,
or of the same height as a standard hexagonal nut,
the tightening torques given in the table apply.
Tolerance classes
Screws and nuts are divided into different strength
classes, the class is indicated by the number on the
bolt head. A high number indicates stronger material,
for example a bolt marked 10-9 indicates a higher
tolerance than one marked 8-8. It is therefore import-
ant that bolts removed during the disassembly of a
bolted joint must be reinstalled in their original
position when assembling the joint. If a bolt must be
replaced check in the replacement parts catalogue
to make sure the correct bolt is used.
Sealants
A number of sealants and locking liquids are used on
the engines. The agents have varying properties and
are used for different types of jointing strengths,
operating temperature ranges, resistance to oil and
other chemicals and for the different materials and gap
sizes in the engines.
To ensure service work is correctly carried out it is
important that the correct sealant and locking fluid
type is used on the joint where the agents are re-
quired.
In this Volvo Penta Service Manual the user will find
that each section where these agents are applied in
production states which type was used on the engine.
During service operations use the same agent or an
alternative from a different manufacturer.
Make sure that mating surfaces are dry and free from
oil, grease, paint and anti-corrosion agent before
applying sealant or locking fluid. Always follow the
manufacturer’s instructions for use regarding; tempera-
ture range, curing time and any other instructions for the
product.
Two different basic types of agent are used on the
engine and these are:
RTV agent (Room temperature vulcanizing). Use for
gaskets, sealing gasket joints or coating gaskets. RTV
agent is clearly visible when a component has been
dismantled; old RTV must be removed before the joint
is resealed.
The following RTV agents are mentioned in the Ser-
vice Manual: Loctite® 574, Volvo Penta 840879-1,
Permatex® No. 3, Volvo Penta P/N 1161099-5,
Permatex® No. 77. Old sealant can be removed using
methylated spirits in all cases.
Anaerobic agents. These agents cure in an absence of
air. They are used when two solid parts, for example
cast components, are installed face-to-face without a
gasket. They are also commonly used to secure
plugs, threads in stud bolts, cocks, oil pressure
switches and so on. The cured material is glass-like
and it is therefore colored to make it visible. Cured
anaerobic agents are extremely resistant to solvents
and the old agent cannot be removed. When reinstall-
ing the part is carefully degreased and then new
sealant is applied.
The following anaerobic agents are mentioned in the
Service Manual: Loctite® 572 (white), Loctite® 241
(blue).
NOTE! Loctite® is the registered trademark of Loctite Corpora-
tion, Permatex® is the registered trademark of the Permatex
Corporation.
7
 Presentation
The 740/DP and 740/MS5 engines are 8 cylinder, sea water cooled gasoline (petrol) engines. Freshwater cooling is available as
option for the 740/MS5 engine and as an accessory for the 740/DP.
The thermostat controlled cooling system is driven by an impeller pump directly driven from the crankshaft. A separate cir-
culation pump forces the cooling water round the engine block so that an even engine temperature is obtained.
The engine oil is cooled in a separate oil cooler by the incoming sea water; the outgoing sea water cools the exhaust man-
ifolds. The engine has a cylinder volume of 7.442 dm3 (454 cu. in), a four barrel two stage downdraft carburetor and a
breakerless electronic ignition system.
This Workshop Manual is valid for both A and B versions of the 740. The most important changes on the later B version are:
• Electric fuel feed pump.
• One piece rear crankshaft seal.
• New main bearings and longer main bearing bolts.
• New crankshaft.
• New oil pan with gasket in one piece design.
• New oil pump, adapted to the new oil pan.
• New timing gear housing with an improved type of seal.
• New chain and chain wheels for the camshaft drive.
• Modified cooling water channels in the engine block and the cylinder heads.
• Rocker arms with collar screws. Fixed valve setting.
• New push rods, rocker arm washers and valve lifters.
• Changed spark plug location.
• Valve covers made of aluminium with O-ring gasket.
The workshop manual states these differences only if it is of importance for the repair methods.
The engine’s serial and type numbers are shown on the data plate, which is located at the rear of the engine block’s port
side (seen from behind). The same information can also be found on a sticker attached to the carburetor’s protective cover.
This information must always be available when ordering, so that the correct parts are delivered.

8
 The engine’s cooling system

Sea water cooled engine

Cooling system
1. Inlet sea water
2. Impeller pump
3. Oil cooler
4. Oil cooler, servo steering
5. Thermostat housing
6. Circulation pump
7. Outlet

Cooling water channels in thermostat housing, closed Cooling water channels in thermostat housing, open thermostat.
thermostat.

1. Cooling water from impeller pump

2. Bypass from outlet chamber
3. Outlet to exhaust manifolds
4. Cooling water from engine block
5. Outlet to circulation pump

9
 The cooling system

Freshwater cooled engines

Cooling system
1. Inlet sea water
2. Impeller pump
3. Oil cooler
4. Heat exchanger
5. Expansion tank
6. Thermostat housing
7. Circulation pump
8. Outlet

Cooling water channels in thermostat housing, closed Cooling water channels in thermostat housing, open
thermostat. thermostat.

1. Cooling water from engine

2. Outlet to exhaust manifolds
3. Intake from exhaust manifolds
4. Outlet to heat exchanger
5. By-pass to circulation pump

10
The engine’s lubricating system

Lubricating system, from the strainer to the lubrication points.

1. Oil strainer
2. Oil pump with relief valve
3. Bypass valve
4. Oil cooler
5. Oil filter
6. Hydraulic valve lifter
7. Oil gallery
8. Oil pump drive

11
 Fault tracing scheme, engine
Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine gets Cause
does not stops does not runs une- abnormally
start reach cor- venly or vi- hot
rect operat- brates ab-
ing r/min at normally
full throttle,
or knocks

Main circuit breaker not switched ON, dis-

charged battery, open circuit in electrical
X cables, main fuse or 8A fuse in instrument
panel blown.

Empty fuel tank, closed fuel cock, clogged

X X fuel filter.

X X X Water or impurities in the fuel

X X X X Faulty spark plugs

Moisture in the distributor and on the igni-

X tion cables

X X Faulty electronics unit

X X Idle speed incorrectly adjusted

X Boat abnormally loaded

X Growth on boat hull and outboard drive

X Damaged propeller

Clogged cooling water intake or cooling

channels. Clogged oil cooler or heat ex-
X changer. Defective impeller or thermostat.
Incorrect ignition setting (too late)

X Wrong fuel grade, incorrect ignition setting

X Fuel pump not working (740B)

Partly clogged fuel filter, fuel cock not fully

X open

12
 Chapter 1 Overhaul data

Technical Data
General
Engine designation ............................................................................ 740
Power output, see sales literature
Compression ratio ............................................................................. 8.0:1
Compression pressure at starter motor speed .................................... 10–11 kp/cm2 (142–156 psi)
Number of cylinders ........................................................................... 8
Bore ..................................................................................................... 740A: 107.937–108.013 (4.2495–4.2525 in)
740B: 107.950–107.967 (4.2500–4.2507 in)
Stroke .................................................................................................. 101.6 mm (4.000 in)
Swept volume ..................................................................................... 7.44 dm3 (454 cu. in)
Bore, oversize 0.030" (0.76 mm) ......................................................... 108.699–108.775 mm (4.2794–4.2824 in)
Max. cylinder out-of-round ................................................................. 0.050 mm (0.002 in)
Max. cylinder taper ............................................................................. 0.025 mm (0.001 in)
Max. piston clearance ........................................................................ 0.127 mm (0.005 in)
Dry weight with drive DP, approx ....................................................... 522 kg (1151 lbs)
Dry weight with MS5, approx ............................................................. 456 kg (1005 lbs)
Engine speed with full load .................................................................. 4000–4400 rpm
Recommended “cruising speed” max .................................................. 300–500 lower than obtained max. rpm
Idling speed ........................................................................................ 750 rpm
Direction of rotation (seen from front of engine) ............................... Clockwise

Piston rings
Piston ring gap measured in ring gap
compression ring upper ................................................................... 0.25–0.76 mm (0.010–0.030 in)
compression ring lower .................................................................... 0.25–0.76 mm (0.010–0.030 in)
Oil ring ............................................................................................. 0.38–1.65 mm (0.015–0.065 in)
Oversize piston rings ......................................................................... 0.76 mm (0.030 in)

Compression rings
Marked “Top” chrome upper ring
Number per piston ............................................................................. 2
Piston ring clearance, “top”, groove .................................................... 740A: 0.04–0.11 mm (0.0017–0.0042 in)
740B: 0.03–0.10 mm (0.0012–0.0039 in)
Piston ring clearance, “second” groove ............................................... 740A: 0.04–0.11 mm (0.0017–0.0042 in)
740B: 0.03–0.10 mm (0.0012–0.0039 in)

Oil rings
Number per piston ............................................................................. 1
Piston ring clearance in groove ........................................................... 0.12–0.19 mm (0.0050–0.0075 in)

Piston pins
Diameter .............................................................................................. 740A: 25.133–25.140 (0.9895–0.9898 in)
740B: 25.137–25.139 (0.9894–0.9896 in)

Press fit
Fit, connecting rod, negative clearance ............................................... 740A: 0.03–0.05 mm (0.0013–0.0021 in)
740B: 0.05–0.07 mm (0.0021–0.0031 in)
Pistons pin’s clearance in the piston, max ........................................ 0.025 mm (0.001 in)

Crankshaft
Axial clearance (end play) ................................................................... 740A: 0.15–0.25 mm (0.006–0.010 in)
740B: 0.13–0.27 mm (0.005–0.011 in)

13
Main bearings
Main bearing journals, Journal No. (seen from front) 1,2,3,4 5
Diameter, standard ..................................................... 740A: 69.801–69.824 mm 69.789–69.814 mm
(2.7481–2.7490 in) (2.7476–2.7486 in)
740B: 1,2,3,4,5
69.804–69.822 mm
(2.7482–2.7489 in)
Bearing clearance ...................................................... 0.025–0.063 mm 0.063–0.088 mm
(0.0010–0.0025 in) (0.0025 in–0.035 in)
Out-of-round, max. .................................................... 0.025 mm (0.001 in)
Taper, max. ................................................................ 0.025 mm (0.001 in)

Main bearing shells

First undersize ........................................................... 0.010 in (0.254 mm)
Second undersize ..................................................... 0.020 in (0.508 mm)

Connecting rod journals

Diameter ..................................................................... 740A: 55.854–55.880 mm
(2.1990–2.200 in)
740B: 55.854–55.869 mm
(2.1990–2.1996 in)
Connecting rod clearance .......................................... 0.022–0.076 mm
(0.0009-0.003 in)
Out-of-round, max. ..................................................... 0.025 mm (0.001 in)
Taper, max. ................................................................ 0.025 mm (0.001 in)

Connecting rod shells

First undersize ........................................................... 0.010 in (0.254 mm)
Second undersize ..................................................... 0.020 in (0.508 mm)

Connecting rods
End float on crankshaft .............................................. 0.33–0.58 mm (0.013–0.023 in)

Camshaft
Number of bearings .................................................. 5
Bearing journal, diameter ............................................ 49.484–49.509 mm
(1.9482–1.9492 in)
Bearing journal, out-of-round max ........................... 0.025 mm (0.001 in)
Camshaft straightness, max. out-of-true ................... 0.050 mm (0.002 in)
Cam lift height ........................................................... Intake Exhaust
6.89 mm (0.2714 in) 7.17 mm (0.2822 in)
Lift height tolerance .................................................. ±0.051 mm (0.002 in)

Cylinder head
Valves
Inlet
Disc diameter ............................................................. 52.324–52.578 mm (2.06–2.07 in)
Stem diameter ............................................................ 9.436–9.454 mm (0.3714–0.3722 in)
Stem diameter oversize 0.015" ................................... 9.817–9.835 mm (0.3864 in–0.3872 in)
Stem diameter oversize 0.030" ................................... 10.198–10.216 mm (0.4014–0.4022 in)
Valve face angle ........................................................ 45°
Valve seat angle in cylinder head ............................ 46°
Seat width in the cylinder head ................................... 0.80–1.60 mm (1/32–1/16 in)
Valve disc edge, min ................................................. 1.0 mm (0.039 in)

14
Exhaust
Disc diameter ............................................................. 43.561–43.815 mm (1.715–1.725 in)
Stem diameter ............................................................ 9.431–9.449 mm (0.3712–0.3720 in)
Stem diameter oversize 0.015" .................................. 9.812–9.830 mm (0.3862 in–0.3870 in)
Stem diameter oversize 0.030" ................................... 10.193–10.211 mm (0.4012–0.4020 in)
Valve face angle ........................................................ 45°
Valve seat angle in cylinder head ............................ 46°
Seat width in the cylinder head ................................... 1.60–2.40 mm (1/16–3/32 in)
Valve disc edge, min ................................................. 1.27 mm (0.050 in)

Valve guides
Clearance, valve stem/guide, inlet .............................. 0.025–0.094 mm (0.0010–0.0037 in)
Clearance, valve stem/guide, exhaust ....................... 0.030–0.120 mm (0.0012–0.0049 in)

Valve springs (Inlet, Exhaust)

Length without load .................................................. 53.84 mm (2.120 in)
Length with load of 328–382 N (33.5–39.0 kp)
(74–76 lbs) (valve closed) .......................................... 45.72 mm (1.800 in)
Length with load of 867–956 N (88.4–97.5 kp)
(195–215 lbs) (valve open) ......................................... 35.56 mm (1.400 in)
Installed height .......................................................... 45.64 mm ± 0.03 mm (1 51/64 in ± 1/32 in)
Valve clearance 740A ............................................... 3/4 turns down from zero clearance to push rod
Valve clearance 740B ............................................... fixed basic setting, torque rocker arm bolts to
54 Nm (40 ft/lb)

Lubricating system
Oil quality ................................................................... Service SG
Viscosity .................................................................... SAE 20W/50 (15W/50)
Oil quantity incl. filter and cooler ............................... 6.0 l (1.31 Imp. gals/1.58 US gals)
Oil pressure at 500 r/min minimum .......................... 0.7 kp/cm2 (10 psi)
Oil pressure at 2000 r/min, hot engine ........................ 2.8–4.2 kp/cm2 (40–60 psi)

Fuel system
Fuel quality, min ........................................................ 91 octane (RON), 87 octane (USA) R+M/2
The engine can be run on unleaded fuel

Fuel pump
Feed pressure (mechanical feed pump 740A) ............ 0.32–0.46 kp/cm2 (4.55–6.54 psi) at 1000 rpm
Feed pressure (electrical feed pump 740B) ............ minimum 0.07 kp/cm2 (1.0 psi) at 12 V

Electrical system
Battery
Earth connection ....................................................... Negative (–)
Voltage ...................................................................... 12 V
Capacity .................................................................... 60 Ah
Battery electrolyte density
fully charged battery ................................................ 1.275–1.285 g/cm3 (0.0460–0.0464 lb/in3)
to be re-charged at ................................................ 1.230 g/cm3 (0.0444 lb/in3)

Alternator
Type ........................................................................... Paris Rhone Alternating current (AC)
Output, max. .............................................................. 700 W (50 A)

Starter motor
Output ........................................................................ 1.2 kW (1.6 hp)

15
Ignition system
Spark plugs ............................................................... Volvo Penta part No. 876047-2,
AC MR43 or equivalent
Spark plug gap .......................................................... 0.9 mm (0.035 in)
Firing order ................................................................ 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Timing light setting at 2500 r/min ............................. 25° BTDC
Basic setting (idling speed) ...................................... 8° BTDC
Sensor gap, distributor ............................................... 0.20–0.25 mm (0.0078–0.0098 in)
Suppressed ignition cables

Cooling system
Thermostat, sea water cooled
Starts to open at ........................................................ 62°C (149°F)
Fully open at .............................................................. 72°C (162°F)

Thermostat, freshwater cooled

Starts to open at ........................................................ 70°C (158°F)
Fully open at .............................................................. 83°C (181°F)

Tightening torques Nm Kpm ft/lb Lubricant

Cylinder head bolts, first tightening (in sequence) ...... 50 5.36 36 Permatex
Cylinder head bolts, second tightening (in sequence) 110 11.2 81
Main bearing bolts ...................................................... 150 15.3 110 Molykote
Crankshaft bearing cap .............................................. 66 6.7 48 oil
Flywheel bolts ............................................................ n90 9.0 65 oil
Flywheel casing bolts ................................................. 41 4.1 30 oil
Torsional damper bolt, crankshaft, front ..................... 115 11.7 85 oil
Camshaft sprocket bolts ............................................ 26 26 20 oil
Bolts for camshaft gear d ........................................... 26 2.6 20 oil
Bolts for intake manifold (in sequence) ...................... 40 4.0 30 oil
Bolts for exhaust manifold .......................................... 54 5.4 40 Permatex
Riser, bolts, tightening in steps
Tightening sequence for riser bolts ............................ 1 =50 5.0 36 Permatex
2 = angle tightening 180° in one step
Spark plug .................................................................. 30 3.0 22 dry
Oil pump bolts ............................................................ 90 9.0 65 oil
Oil pan bolts in engine ................................................ 18 1.8 13 oil
Oil pan bolts in timing gear casing .............................. 8.0 0.8 6 oil
Timing gear casing bolts ............................................ 10 1.0 7.4 oil
Valve cover bolts (740A) ............................................ 13 1.3 9.5 oil
Valve cover bolts (740B) ............................................ 8 0.8 5.9 oil
Oil drain plug .............................................................. 27 2.7 20 oil
Coolant pump bolts ..................................................... 41 4.1 30 Permatex
Distributor yoke bolts ................................................. 46 4.6 34 oil
Carburetor bolts ......................................................... 13 1.3 9.5 oil
Starter motor .............................................................. 68 6.8 50 oil
Rocker arm studs (740A) ........................................... 68 6.8 50 oil
Rocker arm bolts (740B) ............................................ 54 5.4 40 oil
Splash plate, oil pan ................................................... 9.0 0.9 6.7 oil
Fuel pump (740A) ....................................................... 27 2.7 19.8 oil

16
 Chapter 2 Special tools

885128-9 Valve spring compressor

884359-1 Drift for fitting seal in flywheel housing

Tool for guiding the connecting rod and

884944-0 protection for connecting rod bolt

Puller for crankshaft gear

884528-1

884631-3 Drift for fitting timing gear casing seal

884530-7 Drift for fitting crankshaft drive

885006-7 Tool for fitting oil strainer

Tool for removing and fitting the front vibration

884608-1 damper

Fixture and drift for removing and fitting

884682-6 wrist pin

Drift for fitting primary shaft in flywheel housing

884596-8

17
 884599-2 Drift for fitting sealing ring in flywheel housing

Locating pin for removing and fitting exhaust man-

884609-9
ifold

884618-0 Vacuum pump

884620-6 Support for carburetor

884695-8 Reamer kit for valve guide, inlet and exhaust.

0.015" oversize

885129-7 Reamer kit for valve guide, inlet and exhaust.

0.030" oversize

884628-9 Tool for removing and fitting camshaft bearings

884630-5 Cleaning tool for valve guide

Fixture for support

885050-5

884892-1 Charging regulator tester

18
9996525-3 Multimeter

857927-9 Gaging plastic (consumable)

884838-4 Drift for fitting sealing ring in flywheel housing

19
20
 Chapter 3 Electrical system

This chapter covers the engine’s electrical system (excluding the ignition system).
Action Page
3A Wiring diagram ........................................................................................................ 23
3B Fault tracing, actions charging system ................................................................... 27
3C Fault tracing, actions starting system .................................................................... 33
Fault tracing, actions electric fuel pump ................................................................. 36

21
22
 3A Wiring diagram

740A/DP, 740A/MS5

1. Oil pressure gauge

2. Temperature gauge
3. Voltmeter
4. Tachometer
5. Fuel gauge
6. Instrument lighting
7. Key switch
8. Switch, instrument lighting
9. Fuse, 8 A
10. Fuse, 8 A
11. Alternator
12. Starter motor
13. Automatic choke 21. Distributor Color
14. Automatic fuse 50 A 22. Ignition coil SB = black LBL = light blue AWG mm2
15. Main switch (accessory) 23. Starter relay PU = purple R/Y = red/yellow 16 1.5
16. Battery (accessory) 25. Speed limiter
17. Temperature sender 26. Adapter cable LBN = light brown BN = brown 13 2.5
18. Oil pressure sender 27. Connector block R = red W = white 10 6.0
19. Temperature switch 28. Connector block GR = grey Y = yellow 8 10.0
20. Oil pressure switch 29. Connector block

NOTE! The connector pins in the engine’s round connector (27) and the instrument pan-
el’s rectangular connector (28) are numbered differently. The numbers in the Wiring Dia-
gram are the pin numbers in the connectors, not the electrical connection between the
connectors. Electrically the connectors are connected according to the cable colours, i.e.
with the corresponding pin shown in the diagram.

23
 Wiring Diagram 740B

Cable color code

BL = Blue
BN = Brown
GR = Grey
LBL = Light blue
LBN = Light brown
PU = Purple
R = Red
SB = Black
R/Y = Red/Yellow

AWG mm2
16 1.5
13 2.5
10 6
8 10

1. Tachometer 12. Joining piece, accessory instrument 24. Oil pressure sender
2. Oil pressure gauge 13. Joining piece, current rating max. 20 Amp 25. Distributor
3. Temp gauge 14. Joining piece, current rating max. 5 Amp 26. Ignition coil
4. Voltmeter 15. Connectors, engine/instruments* 27. Speed limiter
5. Switch, instrument lighting 16. Cable harness 28. Resistor
6. Instrument lighting 17. Alternator 29. Relay
7. Key switch 18. Starter motor 30. Relay
8. Fuse 8 Amp, system voltage 19. Automatic choke 31. Fuel pump
9. Fuse 8 Amp, start function 20. Automatic fuse 50 Amp 32. Connector, neutral position switch
10. Connector, neutral position 21. Battery switch (optional) 33. Oil pressure monitor
switch (optional/accessory) 22. Battery (optional) 34. Temp monitor
11. Connector, safety breaker (accessory) 23. Temp sender 35. Cable terminal

*NOTE! The connector pins in the engine’s round connector and the instrument panel’s rectangular connector are numbered
differently. The numbers in the Wiring Diagram are the pin numbers in the connectors, not the electrical connection between the
connectors. Electrically the connectors are connected according to the cable colors, i.e. with the corresponding pin shown in
the diagram.

24
 Electrical components location, engine

Component Nos. from wiring diagrams

2. Automatic fuse, Power trim (wiring diagram Power Trim) 28, 29, 30. Relays, Starter and fuel pump
15. Connector engine/instrument 31. Fuel pump (740B)
20. Automatic fuse, engine 33. Oil pressure monitor
23. Temp sender 34. Temp monitor (located on R.H. cylinder head, above
24. Oil pressure sender flywheel)
35. Cable terminal, temp/oil pressure monitor

High tension lead routing

Arrow indicates engine front

25
26
 3B Electrical system
Fault tracing and repairing the Fault tracing the battery circuit
charging system Fault tracing is done using a Multimeter, part No 9996525-3.
Other instruments may have different symbols for a set
Alternator measuring function.
Technical data
Alternator 858838-6
Type: Three-phase delta connected alternating current alter-
nator
Radio suppression capacitor 2.2 µF.
Charging regulator type YV 77
Voltage 14.2V ±0.15 V at + 20°C (+ 68°F)
Max. current 50 A

Repairing and checking

Before removing the alternator, fault tracing must be carried
out in the battery circuit as per points 2–10 to eliminate other
possible reasons for the fault. The alternator must be “hot”
when testing, run for approx. 3 minutes at 2000 rpm before
measuring.

WARNING! The connections for the alternator,

charging regulator or battery circuit must not be re-
moved or disconnected with the engine running.
Check carefully that the measuring instrument is set
for measuring voltage to avoid short circuiting be-
tween the alternator’s connections.
WARNING! Exercise greatest care so that no meas-
uring cables, clothes or suchlike can touch the en-
gine’s or alternator’s pulleys or drive belts when the
engine is running.
2. Checking loss of current
Clean the battery using warm water and wipe clean.
Remove the battery cables and clean the terminals.
● Connect the + (plus) pole.
● Switch off the ignition and any current consumers that
are connected to the starter battery.
● Set the multimeter for measuring currents (+ 20A) and
connect the multimeter between the battery’s –(minus)
pole and –(minus) cable. With ignition switched off, the
loss of current must not exceed 0.1 A.

If the current loss is greater than 0.1 A:

● Make sure there is no short circuit or arcing at any con-
nection point. Arcing is due to dirty, salt contaminated
electrical components. Clean and check all connection
points.

If loss of current is less than 0.1 A:

● Check the battery according to point 4.

1. Check the belt tension and the condition of the belt.

Cracked, worn or oily belts must be replaced. Adjust
the belt tension so that the belts can be depressed with
the thumb approx. 8–10 mm (0.197–0.394 in) midway
between the pulleys.

27
 Checking the battery cables

3. Checking the condition of the battery

Check the charging condition using an acid tester.
Measure the specific weight in all cells at + 20°C
6.
(+ 68°F). The measuring must not be carried out direct-
ly after charging or filling with distilled water. The specif- ● Connect the multimeter between the battery’s plus and
ic weight for a fully charged battery at + 20°C (+ 68°F) minus poles.
should be 1.28. Charge the battery if the specific weight Run the engine at 2000 rpm. Read off and make note of
is less than 1.21 (half-charged). Charge at 5–6 A for ap- the voltage across the battery terminals.
prox. 10 hours. Alternator giving approx. 14.0 V:
● carry out test as per point 7
4. Check 2 hours after charging Alternator giving more than 14.4 V:
Specific weight in the cells is different. Difference be- ● see points 11–16.
tween the cells 0.04 parts of the scale or more, e.g.
1.28–1.24:
● Cell most probably short circuited. Replace the battery
Specific weight is the same for the cells, battery not ful-
ly charged:
● The battery is sulphated. Minor sulphur deposits can be
broken down by a further 10 hours’ charging. Replace
the battery if this does not help.

5. Load testing the battery

WARNING! The battery creates hydro-oxygen gas
which is highly inflammable and explosive. The bat-
tery must never be exposed to open fire or sparks.
Ventilate the battery compartment well, particularly
after charging.

● The battery must hold at least 1.21 specific weight

● Remove the ignition coil’s – (minus) connection
● Connect a voltmeter fixed across the battery terminals
7. Connect the multimeter between the alternator’s B+ and
● Run the starter motor for approx. 10 sec and read the
B–. Run the engine at 2000 rpm. The alternator should
starting voltage, which must not be less than 9.5 V
give 14.0–14.4 V. The permissible voltage drop – the
● Check for bubbles in any cell when the starter motor is
difference in tests in point 7 and point 6 must not ex-
run (short circuit in the cell)
ceed 0.4 V in total.
Voltage less than 9.5 V or bubbles in a cell:
Voltage drop less than 0.2 V:
● Replace the battery and test again
● Battery cables OK.
Voltage 9.5 V or higher:
Voltage drop more than 0.3 V:
● Battery OK; measure the charging voltage as per point 6.
● Carry out tests according to points 8 and 9.

28
 10. Actions
WARNING! Switch off the ignition and disconnect the
battery connections before starting work with the
charging circuit.

If the voltage drop was more than 0.2 V during tests 8

and 9, the cable connections must be disconnected and
cleaned from oxidation etc. Thereafter, spray with a
moist-repellent contact oil such as Volvo Universal Oil
(part No. 281404-4) or suchlike and re-tighten the con-
nection.
Check the connections at the battery, main switch, al-
ternator and starter motor. NOTE! Do not forget the
ground connection points.

8. Checking the positive battery cable

● Connect the multimeter between the alternator’s B+ and
the battery’s plus terminal. Checking and fault tracing the alternator
● Run the engine at 2000 rpm. The voltage drop must not
exceed 0.2 V. If the voltage drop is more than 0.2 V, the
cable connections must be attended to as per point 10.
● Then carry out test as per point 9.

11. Remove the alternator’s electrical connections. Wrench

sizes 8 and 10 mm.

9. Checking the negative battery cable

● Connect the multimeter between the alternator’s B– and
the battery’s minus terminal.
● Run the engine at 2000 rpm. The voltage drop must not
exceed 0.2 V.
If the voltage drop is more than 0.2 V, the cable con- 12. Remove the alternator; slacken and remove the belts
nections must be attended to as per point 10. first. Socket sizes 5/8" and 12 mm.

29
 16. Checking the regulator YV77
The regulator function can be tested using regulator
tester 884892-1.
13. Loosen the charging regulator’s connection at B +. Re-
move the fiat pins at B + and D +. Remove the protec- First, make sure that the tester’s batteries have the cor-
tion from the W connection. rect voltage. Press the “Test” button. Green lamp “Batt”
should light. If not, the batteries should be replaced (2
pcs 9 V alkaline). The batteries are kept in a compart-
ment at the back of the instrument.
● Connect the tester’s grey cables to the brushes.
● Connect the tester’s brown cable to the regulator’s yel-
low and brown cable.
● Connect the tester’s black cable to the regulator’s black
cable.
Press the “Test” button and at the same time turn the
rheostat from the “0” mark to the “1” mark.
Serviceable regulator
Red and green lamps should light from “0” and when
continuing to turn, the red lamp should go out at the “1”
mark.
Faulty regulator
If the red lamp is on for all the rheostat travel, or does
not light in any position: replace the regulator.
14. Evenly pry away the plastic protections’ fixing lugs from
the alternator. Loosen the regulator’s two connection NOTE! The tester’s mark “2” is not used for this type of
cables to the diode bridge. Use flat pliers or poke out regulator.
the terminal using a screwdriver. Do not pull on the ca-
bles!

15. Removing the regulator, replacing the brushes: Un-

screw the charging regulator. Unscrew the brush hold-
er. Check the length of the brushes. Replace if 8 mm
(0.315 in) or shorter. Brushes and holders are replaced
as complete units, unsolder the connection cables and
solder on the new ones using acid-free solder.

30
 19. Testing the B+ diodes
17. Test measuring the rotor winding
It is possible to measure the rotor’s resistance when
the regulator and brushes have been removed. Set the
measuring instrument to the Ω position. Make sure that
the test probes make good contact. The rotor’s resistor
should be between 4 and 6 Ω.
Also make sure there is no earth fault by measuring be-
tween slip ring and earth.
20. Testing the B– diodes
18. Removing the diode bridge
The diode bridge should be removed to be able to
check the diode bridge and stator winding.
Unsolder the three stator windings. Avoid overheating,
as this might damage the diodes. Loosen the nuts and
note how the washers and nuts are fitted.
Test measuring the diode bridge
Set the multimeter to the diode test position.
It is important that the test probes make good contact
for all types of measuring.
Connect the measuring instrument’s positive test probe
to one of the stator winding connections (1-2-3). Then
connect the instrument’s negative test probe to the B+
on the diode plate. Read off the instrument. Normal val-
ue should be between 450 and 650 mV, which is the
voltage drop across the diode. Other values indicate a
faulty diode. Check the other B + diodes by moving the
positive test probe to each respective connection
(1-2-3).
Thereafter check the B + diodes in the opposite current
direction by swapping the positive and negative test
probes. Then perform the same measuring procedure
as above. For this measurement, the instrument should
show a one “1” (to the far left). Should the diode show
other values, then it is faulty.
Connect the instrument’s positive test probe to the B–
on the diode plate and the instrument’s negative test
probe to the stator winding’s corresponding connection
(1-2-3). Read off the instrument as above. Normal value
should be between 450 and 650 mV. Other values indi-
cate a faulty diode. Thereafter, check the B– diodes in
the opposite current direction by swapping the positive
and negative test probes. Perform the same measuring
procedure as above. For this test, the instrument
should show a one “1” (far left). If the instrument shows
any other value, the diode is faulty.
IF ANY DIODE IS FAULTY, THE ENTIRE DIODE
PLATE MUST BE REPLACED.
31
21. Testing the D+ diodes
The diode plate’s three magnetising diodes should be
tested according to the same principles as above. Con-
nect the measuring instrument’s positive test probe to
the corresponding connection for the stator winding
(1-2-3) and the instrument’s negative test probe to D+.
The voltage drop for each diode should be between 450
and 650 mV. Then test the D+ diodes in the opposite
current direction by swapping the positive and negative
test probes. Then perform the same measuring proce-
dure as above. For this test, the instrument should
show a one “1” (far left). If the instrument shows any
other value, the diode is faulty.
IF ANY DIODE IS FAULTY, THE ENTIRE DIODE
PLATE MUST BE REPLACED.
32
22. Test measuring the stator windings
After the diode bridge has been removed, the stator
windings can be measured with the multimeter set to
the “Buzzer” position.
The resistance is measured between each winding.
NOTE! Firstly, check the resistance in the measuring
cables. Later, when measuring between the stator
windings, the inner resistance of the measuring cables
(e.g. 0.10 Ω) must be deducted from the value obtained
between the stator windings. Measure between all sta-
tor windings (three measurings). The resistance should
be 0.11-0.15 Ω.
Also measure against the alternator’s body by setting
the instrument to “Ω” position. Then measure between
each winding and body. For this test, the instrument
should show a one “1” (which means infinity). If the in-
strument shows any other value, the stator winding is
faulty.
IF ANY STATOR WINDING IS FAULTY, THE EN-
TIRE STATOR RING MUST BE REPLACED.
 Chapt. 3C Electrical System

Overhauling the starter motor

25. Carefully pull out the winding housing. If the housing is

stuck, use a rubber mallet and a screwdriver to help.

23. Remove the bolt for the field winding connection.

Wrench size 5/16".

26. Measure the wear of the brushes. The brushes must be

replaced if the length is 12 mm (.472 in) or shorter.

24. Remove the end cover bolts and remove the end cover
and washer from the rotor shaft. Wrench size 3/8".

27. Pull out the pin and remove the brushes from the brush
holder. Unscrew the electrical connection for the brush-
es. Refit the new brushes with the manufacturer’s name
facing the bolt head.

33
28. Replacing the starter drive:
Unscrew the bearing bolt for the solenoid fork. Wrench
sizes 7/16" and 1/2". The solenoid can remain in place.
29. Unscrew the two end cover bolts and carefully pull out
the rotor. Wrench size 3/8".
30. Tighten one of the piston pins of the rotor in a vice using
protective covers over the jaws. Remove the axial
washer. Remove the grooved ring from the holder. Put
pliers with its jaws on the edges of the holder and
knock lightly on the pliers using a rubber mallet to sepa-
rate the ring and the holder.
34
31. Remove the grooved ring and pull out the holder and
starter drive.
32. Fit the new drive. Lubricate the shaft using bearing
grease and pull on the grooved ring holder with the
opening facing outwards. Press on the grooved ring un-
til it locates in the groove. The holder and ring should be
pressed together using two pairs of pliers.
33. Lubricate the bearing bushing in the drive housing using
a little engine oil and install the rotor. NOTE! Do not for-
get the axial washer. Turn it according to the illustration.
34. Fit the bearing bolt for the solenoid fork. Wrench sizes
7/16" and 1/2". Fit the end cover plate. Wrench size 3/8".
 37A. Replacing the solenoid
Remove the bolt for the field connection, wrench size
35. Place a string of sealing compound on the solenoid 5/16". Remove the solenoid bolts, wrench size 5/16".
connection before installing the winding housing. Scrape away the sealing compound from the winding
housing and turn the solenoid when removing.

36. Fit the winding housing; be careful not to damage the

brushes. Fit the washer and end cover. Wrench size 3/8".

37. Fit the field winding connection. Wrench size 5/16".

35
Electric fuel pump (740B) Electric fuel pump operation
Starting (Key in Start Position)
● Relay no. 30 energized (power from start terminal of ig-
nition switch to relay terminal 86)
● Relay no. 30 engages starter motor solenoid.
● “P” terminal (starter solenoid) energized when solenoid
is pulling, thus energizing fuel pump and choke.

Engine Running (key in Run Position)

● “P” terminal is de-energized. The fuel pump and choke
are energized by the closed relay no. 29.
● Relay no. 29 is now being fed positive current from the
D+ terminal of the alternator (alternator charging).

Engine Not Running (Key in Run Position)

● D+ (on alternator) is now acting as ground to relay no.
29.
● Relay no. 29 is still receiving + current trough resistor
no. 28 of 1–3 volt. This low current is not sufficient to
energize relay for fuel pump operation. The fuel pump
38. The electric fuel pump utilizes a 12 V DC motor that will not operate due to this low voltage this is done for
runs continuously whenever the engine is running and safety reasons.
the alternator is charging. The electric system incorpo-
rates a control relay for the fuel pump.

36
 Chapter 4 Cylinder head

This chapter covers the cylinder head and its related parts as follows.
Action Page
4A Fault tracing and repair, fuel system ....................................................................... 39
4B Disassembling related parts .................................................................................... 51
4C Overhauling the cooling system .............................................................................. 55
4D Overhauling the valve system ................................................................................. 57
4E Assembling the cylinder head ................................................................................. 63
4F Assembling related parts ......................................................................................... 65

Quick guide:
Replacing the thermostat: Follow points 103–105.
Overhauling the sea water pump: 110–111.

37
38
 Chapter 4A Cylinder head
Fault-tracing and repair
procedures, fuel system
The fault-tracing procedure only covers problems in the car- Warning! Remember the fire hazard. Always have a
buretor and fuel system. fire extinguisher at hand! Switch off the ignition when
The symptoms described can also be caused by malfunction working with the fuel system. All checks and actions
of the ignition or electrical system, growth on the hull, a dam- must be done with the engine stopped! Run the en-
aged propeller or drive, incorrect trim angle or a worn engine. gine room blower for 2 to 3 minutes before starting
Check these possible fault causes before starting any work work.
on the carburetor.
Caution! Remember the fire hazard, always have a fire
extinguisher at hand!
Engine will not start or difficult to

Starts, irregular idling and stops

Irregular running during normal

Loss of power during normal
Hesitates or runs irregularly

Loss of power during fast

Idling too fast or too slow

Engine suddenly stops

Will not start when hot

Starts but stops again

Poor fuel economy

when accelerating
start when cold

acceleration

acceleration

acceleration
SYMPTOM

CAUSE CORRECTIVE ACTION

Empty fuel tank X X X Fill fuel tank
Closed fuel cock X X Open the fuel cock
Clogged fuel filter X X X 1
Fuel pump not pumping
or faulty X X X Replace the pump
Carburetor flooding X X X X X 2
Not enough fuel in the
carburetor X X X 3
Secondary diaphragm
assy faulty X X 4
Vacuum leakage X X X 5
Trash in the carburetor X Clean the carburetor
Carburetor sucks air X X X X X X 6

Corrective action
1. Replace or clean the fuel filters. The engine has three 3. Adjust the float level as in point 72.
fuel filters: one large main filter fitted at the fuel pump
4. Ensure that the diaphragm is serviceable and that there
and a filter fitted in each of the fuel intakes to the carbu-
is no vacuum leakage at the cork gasket.
retor. The main filter must be completely replaced, while
the carburetor filters can either be cleaned or replaced. 5. Ensure that the vacuum hose to the choke is servicea-
Note! Certain installations may have additional filters, ble. Cheek the fastening of the carburetor. Check the
for example before the fuel cock. Ensure that all filters gasket for the cover for the “Power valve”.
are clean. 6. Check the gaskets and the fastening. The carburetor
2. Check that the seat valves in the float chamber are free shall be tightened to a torque of 13 Nm (1.3 kpm/9 ft/lb).
from waste and dirt. Replace the seat valve, if there is
leakage. Adjust the float level.

39
 Engine will not start or difficult to

Starts, irregular idling and stops

Irregular running during normal

Loss of power during normal
Hesitates or runs irregularly

Loss of power during fast

Idling too fast or too slow

Engine suddenly stops

Will not start when hot

Starts but stops again

Poor fuel economy

when accelerating
start when cold

acceleration

acceleration

acceleration
SYMPTOM

CAUSE CORRECTIVE ACTION

Accelerator pump faulty/
incorrectly adjusted X X X 7
Choke incorrectly adjusted X X 8
Idling speed incorrectly adjusted X X X 9
Idling mixture incorrectly adjusted X X X 9
Flame arrester dirty X X X X Clean the flame arrester
Loose booster cluster X X X X X X X 10
Faulty “Power valve” X X X 11
Choke not functioning
satisfactorily X X X X X X 12

7. Check the setting of the acceleration pump as in points 12. Ensure that the choke valve closes (and opens). If the
76–77. Check the pump diaphragm and the inlet dia- valve does not close (open), the bi-metallic spring and
phragm. Check the ball seat for dirt (high fuel consump- choke setting must be checked. In general: Clean the
tion). choke mechanism and check that linkage and choke
8. Check the setting as per points 78–79. valve is not sticking or seized. When replacing parts or
disassembling, a new adjustment of the choke must be
9. Check the setting of idling speed/idling mixture as per done. Check the choke vacuum piston. Correct any
points 73–75. sticking. Check that the vacuum hose is undamaged
10. Check that the gasket for the booster cluster is not and connected.
damaged and tighten the bolt.
11. Check that the valve diaphragm is serviceable. Re-
place the valve gasket and tighten the valve to 11 Nm
(1.1 kpm/81 ft/lb). Fit a new gasket for the cover.

40
Overhauling and checking the carburetor
39. The Holly 4011 is a four-barrel two-stage down-draft
carburetor. Its construction makes for easy servicing
with few main components, which facilitates i.e. clean-
ing.
40. The carburetor housing (1) is cast in one piece with its
four barrels (venturis) and 2 fuel bowls. The primary
and secondary sides have separate fuel systems, each
with its own fuel bowl. The fuel bowls and the choke
valve are fitted on the cover (2). The primary side bar-
rels have 35 mm (1 3/8") dia and the secondary barrels
50.8 mm (2").
41. The fuel bowls have bottom mounted main jets and a
vacuum controlled power valve. The primary side’s fuel
bowl also has its outlet direct to the acceleration pump.
Each fuel bowl is ventilated with ventilation pipes open-
ing out above the primary and secondary barrels.
42. The floats are made of a plastic material and are mount-
ed with a centre pivoted. The float’s lever affects the
seat valve, which is replaceable. The inlets have fuel
filters consisting of a brass mesh.
43. The first stage (primary side) consists of two barrels
which are supplied with fuel from the idle system, main
metering system, power system and the accelerator
pump.
41
44. The idle system supplies the engine with fuel when the
throttle plate is partly or completely closed. It works by
using the underpressure from the inlet pipe. When the
valve is closed the underpressure at the opening (1)
below the valve is high. When opening (2) there is at-
mospheric pressure. This great pressure difference
makes air rush in to the channel, taking with it fuel to
45. Main metering system works on the venturi principle.
the fuel channel’s opening (3). This fuel has been mixed
This means that when air flows through a constricted
with air in the idle well at the top of the booster cluster,
tube, the flow is fastest and the pressure lowest at the
see pos 7-9 point 45. The orifice has an adjuster screw
point of maximum constriction.
(6) which controls the fuel mixture.
In a carburetor this is utilized by placing the orifice of
The idle system has extra orifices (4), which also start
the discharge jet in the venturi itself. To further increase
to work when the throttle valve starts opening and the
the vacuum, the discharge jet’s orifice has been formed
orifice is reached by the underpressure. This gives a
into a booster venturi (1). The emulsion is led from the
smooth transfer from running with help from the idle
fuel bowl through the main jet (2) into the main well (3).
system to the main system. The fuel supply is done via
the main jet (7) into the idle system’s fuel channel. The fuel/air mixture is obtained there by the air flowing
When the fuel bowl has atmospheric pressure, the from the booster venturi (4) tubes. The tubes have
pressure difference helps to suck the fuel (3). The fuel drilled side holes and are recessed in the main fuel
channel has a limiter (5), which controls the amount of channels. Air flows into the inlet port (5), where there is
fuel for the idle system. Each barrel has its own idle atmospheric pressure, down and into the tubes’ side
system, even in the secondary side’s barrels. These holes. The pressure difference between the booster
are the same as the primary side but do not have ad- venturi (1) where the fuel/air mixture flows out (vacuum)
justment screws for flow adjustment. and (5) and the fuel bowl (atmospheric pressure) cre-
ate, in this way, the driving force for the fuel transfer.
Extra air, which helps with the fuel transfer is taken in
via (6). The idle system’s fuel mixing chamber, which is
supplied with fuel via the pipe (8) and air through the
hole (9), is located at (7).
The amount of air flowing through the venturi decides
the amount of fuel to be pressed out from the fuel bowl.
When the valves are fully open the air speed in the ven-
turi is greatest, the pressure in the venturi is at its low-
est, and the fuel transport is the highest. The replacea-
ble main jets limit the fuel flow. The main jets are
marked with the flow capacity in cm3/min.

42
46. The power system is part of the main metering system
and complements it at high speed operation or if high 48. The pump is driven mechanically from the valve shaft.
load conditions exist. In these cases the vacuum in the The throttle shaft is equipped with a plastic cam (1)
intake manifold is at its lowest (near atmospheric pres- which operates the acceleration pump lever (2) through
sure) due to the great air flow with fully open valve. an intermediate lever. The construction of the cam de-
cides the pump’s capacity, and its profile determine
At full load one requires as high power output as possi- how much fuel is distributed during the throttle’s open-
ble and this is achieved by adding more fuel to the air ing.
surplus. Therefore, one allows the underpressure to
control a spring loaded vacuum valve (1), which opens
an extra channel for fuel above the main jet. This
so-called “Power valve” is marked with a number corre-
sponding to the vacuum at which it opens. An 85 power
valve will open when the vacuum drops below 8.5 inch-
es of mercury.
When the valves starts to close and the underpressure
increases, and the spring force will be overpowered
closing the extra fuel channel. This allows the carbure-
tor to provide optimum efficiency with low fuel con-
sumption in the intermediate range and yet still provide
the possibility of high power outputs.
Both the primary and the secondary sides are equipped
with a “Power valve”.

47. The accelerator pump is of the diaphragm type and is at

the bottom of the primary side’s fuel bowl.
The accelerator pump has two functions:
1) To compensate for the lack of fuel when the throttle
opens and air rushes in. The lack of fuel occurs due to
the fuel being considerably heavier, i.e. has a higher
density than air. This leads to inertia in the fuel supply
at rapid throttle changes resulting in a too lean fuel/air
mixture.
2) To compensate for the fuel which condenses on the in-
take manifold surfaces when the throttle is opened rap-
idly at low engine speeds. A sudden drop of the vacu-
um tends to condensate the fuel.
49. The fuel runs down into the pump from the fuel bowl via
the channel (3). When the pump lever presses up the
spring loaded diaphragm, the supply channel is closed
by the pump pressure via a plastic diaphragm (4). The
fuel is then pressed further in a channel to a seat valve
(5) which opens allowing the fuel to reach the jets.
These squirt a jet aimed at the booster venturi in the pri-
mary side barrels.
When the pressure drops in the fuel channel the seat
valve (5) closes, preventing air from entering into the
pump housing or the channel is sucked dry by the air
flow in the venturi. The seat valve consists of a ball with
a pin as counterweight. When the pressure drops in the
pump housing, the weight of the fuel bowl fuel opens the
return diaphragm allowing the fuel to run down into the
pump housing. At the same time, the return spring in the
pump presses back the pump diaphragm, thus creating
the pump’s capacity.

43

50. The second stage (secondary side) consists of two
barrels, which are equipped with vacuum controlled
throttle plate. Fuel is supplied through separate idle and
main metering systems. The function and construction
is equivalent to the primary side.
The throttle plate is connected directly to the vacuum
housing (1) via a link (2). The upper side of the dia-
phragm contains a pressure spring (3), which tries to
keep the plate closed. A passage connects the vacuum
housing with the primary side venturi.
When the air flow through the primary barrels is suffi-
ciently great, the effect of the vacuum on the diaphragm
will overcome the spring pressure and the secondary
throttle plate (4) starts to open. If the vacuum in the pri-
maries is reduced, the spring will press the diaphragm
down and thereby close the secondaries. There is also
linkage connected to the primary valve which closes
the secondary barrels. The linkage is there for safety
reasons, for example, if a diaphragm spring breaks it
will not prevent the secondary throttle plate from clos-
ing.
51. The choke is of the electric type. The choke cover con-
tains a bimetallic spring which by means of its spring
pressure keeps the choke valve in the closed position.
When starting from cold, the bimetallic spring is heated
electrically. Once the engine has started, a vacuum
controlled piston in the choke housing pulls the choke
valve to a preset position, the so-called “qualified” posi-
tion. The remainder of the choke valve’s opening is
done by the bimetallic spring.
When the engine is stopped and cools down, the spring
pulls together and closes the valve.
44
Overhauling and adjusting the
carburetor
Carburetor overhauling Holley 4011
Technical data VP nr 856236-5.
Carburetor size CFM 650
Primary jet 64
Secondary jet 68
Acc. pump setting (cam) pos. 2
Choke setting 6 marks from left
52. Removing the carburetor from the engine: Remove the
carburetor’s protective cover, socket size 10 mm. Dis-
connect the electrical connection to the choke and the
vacuum tube to the fuel pump. Remove the throttle ca-
ble and return spring. Remove the fuel pipe connec-
tions. Wrench sizes 17 and 19 mm.
WARNING!
Be careful to avoid fuel spillage.
Remove the carburetor from the intake manifold.
Wrench size 1/4" allen.
53. Removing the carburetor cover:
Note! Before opening the carburetor it must be cleaned
externally if dirty. Clean carefully using a brush and car-
buretor cleaner, thinners or denatured alcohol, i.e meth-
ylated spirits.
WARNING! Always work in well ventilated areas:
Open flames are not allowed nearby.
Important! Do not use more cleaner than absolutely
necessary and only for shortest possible time. The
carburetor must never be immersed in cleaning fluid
to loosen up dirt. Rubber and plastic components can
be damaged by certain types of cleaning solvents.
Hold the carburetor in the normal horizontal position
with the flame arrestor fitted. If compressed air is used
for drying and blowing clean, a plastic bag must be
pulled over the flame arrestor as protection. Blow from
above and downwards, do not direct the air flow in from
underneath the carburetor. Remove the flame arrestor
and wipe the upper and lower sides clean using a clean
lint-free rag.
54. Place the carburetor in fixture 884620-6. Alternatively,
fit four M8 or 5/16" bolts with a minimum length of 45
mm (1 3/4") in the carburetor mounting holes to provide
a raised working position.
 58. Loosen the vacuum hose and remove the choke hous-
ing as a complete unit. Note the three spacers between
choke and carburetor housing. Bolt head: TORX 20.

55. Unscrew the carburetor’s centre bolt. Wrench size 11

mm.

59. Remove the secondary diaphragm assembly’s linkage

from the valve spindle by removing the wire clip using a
screwdriver. Remove the secondary diaphragm as-
56. Remove the wire clip that secures the choke linkage. sembly from the carburetor housing, bolt head TORX
20.

57. Unscrew the 8 TORX-20 bolts and carefully lift off the 60. Remove the accelerator pump from the primary side’s
cover. It might be necessary to knock lightly using a fuel bowl. Bolt head TORX 20.
screwdriver handle or a plastic mallet to separate the
units.

45
 64. Remove the primary and secondary sides’ booster ven-
turis.
NOTE! The seat valve for the accelerator pump’s fuel
61. Remove the pump diaphragm and the return spring. channel is located under the hollow bolt on the primary
Leave the check valve diaphragm in place, as per fig- side.
ure. Check that the diaphragms are undamaged.
Turn the carburetor housing holding the hand cupped
underneath to catch the counterweight pin and seat ball.

62. Remove the power valve covers. Bolt TORX 20.

65. Unscrew the main jets from the fuel bowl using a
wide-bladed screwdriver, at least 8 mm (5/16") wide.
Do not mix up the primary and secondary side jets.

63. Remove the power valve using a 1" ring wrench or 66. Unscrew the idle mixture screws for the two primary
socket. When reassembling, tighten the valve to a side barrels,
torque of 11 Nm (1.1 kpm/8 ft/lb).

46
67. Clean the carburetor housing internally using a mild
cleaner such as kerosene. Blow all the passages clean
using compressed air.

68. Clean all the removed carburetor parts. Blow clean all
passages in the booster venturi and the primary side’s
hollow bolt. Ensure that the accelerator pump and pow-
er valve diaphragms are undamaged.

71. Replacing the float and the seat valve:

Press out the float shaft and remove the float. The seat
valve is replaced by unscrewing the locking screw; the
valve can now be unscrewed with the adjustment nut.
69. Replacing the secondary diaphragm assembly’s dia- NOTE! Take care of the nut which is loose on the
phragm: valve. Before fitting, lubricate the O-ring (1) and place
Unscrew the four screws; tap lightly with a screwdriver new gaskets above and below the adjustment nut.
handle to separate the lower and upper diaphragm
housings. The spring and diaphragm can now be re-
placed. The cork gasket (1) must be replaced when re-
assembling.
NOTE! Be careful to prevent the steel ball from the sec-
ondary housing check valve from falling out when the
upper and lower housings are parted.

Carburetor Adjustment
Adjusting the float level
WARNING! Be very careful when adjusting the float
level. Smoking, open fire or sparks are not allowed
nearby. Be aware of the engine’s moving parts such
as belts and pulleys, so that clothes, tools or parts of
the body do not come into contact.

70. Checking the choke housing:

Remove the choke housing. Check that the choke vac-
uum piston does not stick. Blow the vacuum channel
clean using compressed air. Remove the piston, if nec-
essary, by unscrewing the choke spindle. Press in the
stop rivet in the piston rod and pull out the piston. The
piston can be polished using a very fine-grained emery
cloth. Blow the vacuum channel clean using com-
pressed air. Lightly oil the shaft and accelerator cam’s
hub. Reassemble the parts; do not forget to press back
the rivet.

72. With the engine at idling and the throttle control in Neu-
tral, unscrew the level plug. Loosen the locking screw and
turn the adjustment nut until the fuel is level with the bottom
of the level hole. Check the setting by accelerating the en-
gine a few times with the gear in Neutral. Tighten the lock
screw while holding the lock nut with a 16 mm (5/8") wrench.
Fit the level plug.

47
Idle setting
73. The screws for the idle mixture are located one on each
side of the carburetor housing’s primary side. If the
screws have been removed, then a basic setting must
be done first. With the engine stopped, the mixing
screws should be screwed in until they bottom. Do not
screw them in hard, as this can damage the seat! Then
screw out both screws 3/4 turns (counterclockwise).
74. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating tem-
perature. Set the idle speed to 750 rpm using the stop
screw on the throttle valve lever. Use a workshop ta-
chometer.
75. Connect a vacuum gauge to the tapping (1) on the in-
take manifold. Make note of the mixing screws’ original
position (the screwdriver slot). Adjust both screws
equally; adjust by 1/8–1/4 turn at the time to the highest
possible value on the vacuum gauge is obtained. Set
the idle speed to 750 rpm again with the stop screw.
The same procedure is then repeated once more.
48
76. Setting the accelerator pump
● Check that the plastic cam is fitted in position 2. Set the
adjuster screw on the pump lever so that it makes con-
tact with the pump arm at idle.
● Check the setting. When properly set, the pump arm
starts to move as soon as the plastic cam moves. The
correct adjustment must also allow a slight clearance
between the pump arm and the adjuster screw with the
throttle fully open. This clearance should be 0.40–0.50
mm (0.016–0.020 in) at wide open throttle.
77. Check the function with the throttle cable connected.
Let someone manoeuver the throttle control at the helm
with the engine stopped. Remove the flame arrester
and watch the primary side booster venturi. The slight-
est acceleration by the throttle control should cause fuel
to be sprayed out from the jets into the venturi. Adjust
any clearance of the throttle control mechanism.
78. Choke setting:
The setting is split up into two parts, the choke index
and the choke qualification.
Bend a wire or paper clip with a max. diameter of 0.7
mm (0.03 ins) so that the bent end is max. 3 mm (0.12
ins).
1. Insert the wire into the position groove until it bottoms.
Pull it out together with the piston until the wire catches.
2. Press lightly with a finger on the choke valve in the
closed position.
3. The distance between the choke valve’s lower edge
and the carburetor wall should be 6.35-7.60 mm
(0.25-0.30 ins). Measure using a drill bit.
4. When adjusting, turn adjustment screw in (clockwise)
to decrease dimension or out (counterclockwise) to in-
crease dimension.
Check that the bimetallic spring eyelet is against the choke
arm in the choke housing (if the choke has been removed).
Turn the choke cover so that the setting mark lines up with
the correct setting mark on the housing. The setting should
be at the 6th mark from left. Tighten the choke cover.
80. Setting the secondary valve’s stop position (carburetor
removed):
Unscrew the adjuster screw until the secondary valve
is closed. Screw in the screw (clockwise) until contact
is made with the lever’s stop. Screw in another 1/8 turn.

79. Setting the choke unloader Checking and adjusting the secondary valve’s opening func-
1. The choke must be correctly set. tion:
● Set the secondary valve lever (1) to the idle position.
2. The primary valve is fully open.
● The link arm’s (2) clearance in the oval hole should be
3. Press lightly on the choke valve in the closed position.
4. Measure the distance between the choke valve’s lower as little as possible or max 0.5 mm (0.020 in).
● Bend the tang, if necessary.
edge and the carburetor wall. The distance may be min.
7.1 mm (0.28 in).
5. When adjusting, bend the tang on the valve spindle’s
lever (under the choke housing).

49
50
 Chapt. 4B Cylinder heads

Removal of related parts

83. Remove the oil filter(s) complete with bracket and oil
hoses. Be careful to avoid fuel spillage.
81. Remove the carburetor’s protective cover, socket size
Remove the oil filter bracket from the riser, wrench size
10 mm.
12 mm.
Remove the oil hoses from the LH cylinder head’s rear
edge, wrench size 14 mm.
Remove the oil filter bracket from the intake manifold,
wrench size 1/2".
Remove the oil hoses from engine and oil cooler and lift
out the oil filter units. Wrench sizes 17 mm and 22 mm
for earlier engines and 27 mm for later.

84. FWC: Disconnect the coolant hose clamps at the heat

82. Remove the electrical connections to the ignition coil.
Loosen the ignition coil’s bracket and pull out the coil.
exchanger. Disconnect the coolant pipe connections at
the riser and exhaust manifold, and the thermostat
housing. Remove the pipes. Socket size 10 mm. Re-
move the hose between thermostat housing and heat
exchanger.
SWC: Remove the coolant pipes between the exhaust
manifold and thermostat housing, and thermostat hous-
ing and oil cooler. Wrench size 10 mm.

85. Remove the electrical connections, coolant sender

(right hand side) and electric choke. Wrench size 3/8".

51
 90. Remove the fuel pipe from the pump. Wrench sizes 17
and 19 mm.
WARNING! Be careful to avoid fuel spillage.

86. Remove the electrical connection box from the right

hand side riser. The connection box cover must be
loosened to access two of the bolts. Wrench sizes 10
mm for the cover, 12 mm for the box.

91. Remove the throttle control return spring. Remove the

carburetor. Wrench size 1/4" Allen.

92. Remove the electrical connections from the alternator.

Wrench sizes 8 and 10 mm.

87. FWC: Remove the heat exchanger by loosening the

hose from the circulation pump and the hose clamps
around the heat exchanger’s lower container. SWC:
Remove the hose between the thermostat housing and
circulation pump.

93. Remove the alternator. First slacken the belts to be

able to remove them. Socket sizes 5/8" and 12 mm.

88. Remove the thermostat housing, socket size 9/16".

FWC: First disconnect the hose clamp by the circula-
tion pump, to remove the hose together with the thermo-
stat housing.

89. Remove the fuel pipe from the carburetor. Wrench siz-
es 17 and 19 mm. 94. Remove the alternator bracket (and the LH heat ex-
changer bracket for FWC). Socket size 14 mm.
WARNING! Be careful to avoid fuel spillage.

52
95. Remove the fuel pipe between the fuel filter and the fuel
pump. Wrench sizes 17 and 19 mm.

99. Remove the distributor bracket and pull out the distribu-
tor. Wrench size 9/16".

96. Remove the fuel filter bracket (and the RH heat ex-
changer bracket for FWC). Wrench sizes 14 mm and
5/8".

100. Remove the cable harness connections from the oil

pressure sender and coolant temperature switch.
Wrench size 3/8". Remove the cable harnesses earth
point by the left hand engine foot. Wrench size 14 mm.
Remove the starter motor connections, wrench sizes
3/8" and 17 mm.

101. Remove the tube for the oil dipstick from the cylinder
97. Remove the exhaust manifolds as one unit together head. Wrench size 9/16".
with the risers, wrench size 14 mm. Unscrew the bolts
starting from the front and continuing backwards. The
front bolt should be left as support, screwed in approx.
3 turns. Hold the exhaust manifold to stop it from falling
down the rear end bolt is removed. Hold the exhaust
manifold in the middle and unscrew the front bolt by
hand while lifting away. If the engine can be turned fitted
in a fixture or suchlike, two guide pins 884609-9 can be
used for removal. The engine should then be turned so
much that the guide pins are horizontal to keep the ex-
haust manifold from sliding off.

98. Remove the spark plug cables from the spark plugs. To
facilitate reassembly, each plug cap should be marked
with its respective cylinder number.

102. Remove the intake manifold. Wrench sizes 9/16".

53
54
 Chapt. 4C Cylinder heads

Overhauling the cooling

system
103. Remove the coolant hoses and, for SWC, the coolant
pipes from the thermostat housing. Socket size 10 mm.
Check the condition of all hoses.

106. FWC: Inspect the heat exchanger for dirt. Remove the
end covers from the heat exchanger tube, socket size
14 mm. Pry off the end cover using a screwdriver.
NOTE! A loose O-ring is fitted inside the cover as a
seal for the end cover bolt. Remove the gaskets.

104. FWC: Remove the hose connections from thermostat

housing and take out the thermostat. Socket size 12
mm.
SWC: Disassemble the thermostat housing and remove
the thermostat. Socket size 14 mm.

107. If necessary, the heat exchanger should be removed

and flushed clean. Any remaining dirt in the heat ex-
changer tubes can be removed using a welding rod or
suchlike.
105. If necessary, check the thermostat’s opening tempera-
ture by immersing the it in hot water. The thermostat
should start opening at: 108. Slacken and remove the V-belts, loosen the belt ten-
FWC 70°C (158°F) sioner bolt. Wrench size 12 mm.
SWC 62°C (154°F)
and should be fully open at:
FWC 83°C (181°F)
SWC 70°C (158°F)

55
109. Remove and check the circulation pump.
Wrench size 9/16".
FWC: Unscrew the lower hose clamp for the hose to
the thermostat housing. If the pump is damaged, it
should be replaced as a complete unit. Remove the belt
pulley and transfer it to a new pump. Wrench size 5/8".
“Permatex” should be applied to the bolts before fitting. 111. Remove the pump cover and pull out the impeller using
Tighten the bolts to torque 41 Nm (4.1 kpm/30 ft/lb). slip joint pliers. Separate the units and check the ball
bearing, replace if necessary. Lubricate the ball bearing
thoroughly with grease and assemble the pump. The
impeller and gasket should always be replaced with
new ones. NOTE! Do not lubricate the ceramic spacer
with grease.

112. Remove the oil and water hoses from the oil cooler. Re-
move the cooler from the bracket. Flush the oil cooler’s
110. Remove the coolant hoses from the sea water pump. water passages clean; any dirt can be carefully re-
Remove the pump from the pump bracket. Wrench size moved using steel wire. If damaged, replace the cooler.
1/2". Remove the pump bracket from the engine block. Check the oil and water hoses for cracks; replace if
Wrench size 5/8". Remove the pump from the belt pul- necessary.
ley, 5/16" (Allen wrench).

56
 Chapt. 4D Cylinder heads

113. Remove the valve covers, wrench size 7/16".

116. Remove the cylinder head(s). Wrench size 5/8".

114. Arrange for a rack or 8 plastic boxes marked with cylin-
der number. Rocker arms, push rods, valves, valve
springs, valve lifters and on 740B the rocker arm shoul-
der bolts must be installed in their original places if they
are to be reused.

117. Remove the valves using a valve spring compressor.

Remove valve lock, upper washer, spring with damper,
valve stem seal and rotator. Place the valves and valve
springs in the prepared rack as per point 114.

115. Remove the rocker arms. Socket size 11/16".

118. Remove any carbon deposits from combustion cham-

bers and valves. Clean the valve guides using tool
884630-5.

57
119. Check the cylinder head for cracks in the combustion
chambers. Check extra thoroughly around the exhaust
ports and spark plug holes. The cylinder head must be
replaced if there are any cracks.

123. Check the wear of the valves and valve guides. Use a
dial indicator to check the clearance in the valve guide.
Drop the valve down approx. 2 mm (0.08 in) when
checking.
Permitted clearance:
Inlet ........................ 0.025–0.094 mm (0.0010–0.0037 in)
Exhaust ................... 0.030–0.124 mm (0.0012–0.0049 in)

120. Check the flatness of the cylinder head. Make sure that
the gasket surface is completely free from dirt and re-
mains from the old gasket. Using a straight ruler and
feeler gauge, measure the head, first longitudinally and
then diagonally. Test with different feeler gauges until
you find one that fits exactly. The warp must not ex-
ceed 0.15 mm (0.006 in).

121. If the warp of one or both cylinder heads exceeds the

tolerance, they must be planed. Both cylinder heads
must be planed with the same amount, even if only one
of them is warped. Max machining measurement is =
0.76 mm (0.030 in). Replace the cylinder heads if the
maximum machining is not sufficient to restore the flat-
ness.

122. To ensure the fit between the intake manifold and the
cylinder heads, the sides and bottom of the intake mani-
fold must also be ground, if the cylinder heads have
been ground.

Machining of Machining of intake manifold

cylinder heads Sides Bottom
0.12 mm (0.005 in) 0.10 mm (0.004 in) 0.25 mm (0.010 in) 124. If the clearance is excessive, the valve guides should
0.25 mm (0.010 in) 0.17 mm (0.007 in) 0.48 mm (0.019 in) be reamed for valves with oversize stems. Use reamer
0.38 mm (0.015 in) 0.28 mm (0.011 in) 0.73 mm (0.029 in) kit 884695-8, containing reamers for 0.015" and kit
0.50 mm (0.020 in) 0.35 mm (0.014 in) 0.96 mm (0.038 in) 885129-7 for 0.030" OS. After reaming, the valve seat
0.63 mm (0.025 in) 0.45 mm (0.018 in) 1.21 mm (0.048 in) must be milled or ground for the valve guide bore.
0.76 mm (0.030 in) 0.53 mm (0.020 in) 1.47 mm (0.058 in)

125. If necessary, machine the valves in a valve grinding

machine. The valve seat angle should be:
Exhaust valve: 45°
Inlet valve: 45°
The valve disc edge (A) should be min 1.00 mm (0.039
in) for the inlet and 1.27 mm (0.059 in) for the exhaust
valve after grinding, see Fig. 126.

58
126. Mill or ream the valve seats. The angle should be:
Exhaust valve: 46°
129. Check the valve springs (without dampers).
Inlet valve: 46°
Length without load ........................ 53.8 mm (2.118 in)
Length with load 328–382 N
127. Ensure that valves and valve seats are seating proper- (74–86 lbs) (closed valve) .......... 45.72 mm (1.800 in)
ly. Apply marking dye to the valve seating surface and Length with load 867–956 N
rotate it with light pressure against the seat. If the dye is (195–215 lbs) (open valve) ......... 35.56 mm (1.400 in)
not evenly distributed over the entire valve seat surface
(the valve is not seating correctly), the valve should be
re-machined or the seat should be reground, and a new
check carried out until the desired result is obtained.

128. Check the rocker arm studs (740A) and the push rods’
guide plate (damage or wear). The rocker arm studs
hold the guide plate. Wrench size 11/16" long socket.
On reassembly, locking fluid such as red “Loctite 242”
should be applied to the threads of the rocker arm studs
before they are torqued to 68 Nm (6.9 kpm/59 ft/lb).
On the 740B the rocker arm studs have been replaced
by shoulder bolts. Check the bolts and push rod’s guide
plates for damage or wear. On reassembly (see step
142) the bolts should be torqued to 54 Nm (40 ft/lb).

59
 ● Noise at high speeds but quiet running at lower engine
Installation
speed: Oil level above max on the oil dipstick – the oil is
130. Clean the cylinder head to remove grinding or machin- whipped to foam by the crankshaft, resulting in the
ing dust. noise in the lifters.
Too low oil level – the oil pump sucks in air at high
speed or if the boat is rolling. Air in the oil causes noise
in the lifters.

132. Press down the piston using a push rod and loosen the
circlip using a screwdriver. Remove the push rod and
take out the internal parts.
1. Valve lifter 6. Circlip
2. Push rod seat 7. Piston
3. Valve 8. Spring for ball
131. Install the valves. Fit the rotator (1) and the seal (2) on 4. Valve ball 9. Spring for piston
the valve guide. Oil the valve stem with engine oil and fit 5. Ball retainer
the valve in its original seat. Assemble the spring with
damper (3) and the valve spring washer (4). Compress
the spring with the valve spring compressor and install
the valve locks (5) in the groove. Apply grease to the
underside of the locks to keep them in place. Remove
the valve spring compressor and install the remaining
valves.

Valve lifters
If there is noise in one or more of the lifters, all lifters should
be disassembled and cleaned.
Noise can have other causes than faulty lifters. See fault di-
agnosis below.
Trouble shooting – valve lifters
● instantaneous noise when the engine is started: This is
quite normal and is due to oil being drained from the lift-
ers when the engine has been stopped for a long time.
It takes a few seconds for the lifters to be refilled after
starting.
● instantaneous noise at idling, disappears with increased
engine speed: This indicates a worn valve ball or dirt in
133. Loosen the ball retainer from the piston using a screw-
the lifters.
driver.
● Noise when idling or with hot engine oil, quiet at high en-
Clean all parts and check them carefully. If any part is
gine speed or cold engine oil: Lifters leaking a lot of oil.
damaged or worn, the valve lifter must be replaced as a
complete unit.

60
 137. Before the valve lifters are fitted apply “Molycote” or
134. Fit ball and spring in the piston and install the ball retain-
er using a screwdriver.
135. Place the piston spring on the piston and insert the pis-
ton into the valve lifter. NOTE! The oil holes in lifter and
piston must be lined up.
suchlike to the undersides. Install the lifters in their orig-
inal place. New valve lifters must be installed, if the lift-
ers have been mixed and the installation order is not
known.
NOTE! New valve lifters must always be used when a
new camshaft has been installed. Fill the lifters with oil
and apply “Molycote” or suchlike to the underside.

136. Fill the lifter with engine oil and press down the piston
using a 3 mm drift (0.118 in) (1) until the oil holes line
up. NOTE! Do not pump the piston.
Insert a 1.5 mm drift (0.059 in) (2) through the oil holes
so that the piston is locked in its bottom position. Re-
move the 3 mm drift and refill the lifter with engine oil.
Install valve, push rod seat and locking. Press down
the seat and remove the 1.5 mm drift.

61
62
 Chapt. 4E Cylinder head
Valve Mechanism
141. Drop oil onto the valve lifters and install the push rods in
their original valve lifters.

138. Check to make sure that the sealing surfaces are

clean. The cylinder head bolts and the hole threads in
the block must be clean in order not to affect the tight-
ening torque. The gasket is installed dry.

139. Install the cylinder heads by guiding them onto the two
locating dowels. Apply “Permatex” or similar to the cyl-
inder head bolts.

142. Fit the rocker arms, rocker arm washers and rocker
arm nuts (740B: shoulder bolts) in their original loca-
tions. Apply “Molycote” or similar lubricant to the rocker
arms and rocker arm washers.
The 740B version uses shoulder bolts with fixed lash
system. Fit the bolts and torque to 54 Nm (40 ft/lb). No
adjustment is needed.

140. Tightening should be carried out in two steps and in the

order shown in the figure. Wrench size 5/8".
Tightening torque:
1. 50 Nm ( 5 kpm/36 ft/lb)
2. 110 Nm (11 kpm/80 ft/lb)

143. Adjusting the valve clearance (740A only): The engine

has hydraulic valve lifters, and therefore the basic set-
ting is sufficient. Tighten the adjustment nut until the
rocker arm touches the valve and push rod, and a slight
resistance can be felt when turning the push rod. Tight-
en the adjustment nut an additional 3/4 turn. Socket
size 11/16".

63
 Exhaust

Inlet

A. Turn the engine until the No. 1 piston is in the firing po-
sition. Make sure that the marking on the vibration
damper is opposite the “0” marking on the timing plate.
NOTE! Valves for No. 6 should be rocking in this posi-
tion. With the engine in this position, the following
valves can be adjusted:
Exhaust: 1-3-4-8
Inlet: 1-2-5-7
B. Turn the engine one revolution until the No. 6 piston is
in the firing position. Check the marking on the vibration
damper. NOTE! No 1 valves should be rocking in this
position. With the engine in this position, the following
valves can be adjusted:
Exhaust: 2-5-6-7
Inlet: 3-4-6-8
(Even cylinder numbers are located in the right hand
half of the block, uneven numbers in the left. The arrow
indicates the front of the engine).

64
 Chapt. 4 Cylinder heads

144. Thoroughly clean the intake manifold contact surfaces.

Apply sealing compound to the shadowed areas and
then fit the gaskets. Apply a thin string of sealing com-
pound around the cylinder heads’ cooling channels. Fit
the side gaskets and seal again around the cooling
channels. Use sealing compound 841261-1 or equiva-
lent RTV compound.

145. Thoroughly clean the intake manifold and install it care-

fully so that the gaskets are not moved. Fit the bolts; do
not forget the front lifting eye.

148. Install the distributor. Rotate the crankshaft until the No.
146. Tighten the intake manifold in the sequence illustrated
above. The arrow indicates the direction of the front of
the engine. Tightening torque 40 Nm (4.1 kpm/29 ft/lb),
socket size 9/16"
1 piston is in the firing position. See the marking on the
vibration damper. NOTE! The valves for No. 6 “rock” in
this position. Rotate the distributor rotor until it points to
No. 1 cylinder spark plug cable and install the distribu-
tor. If the distributor does not go down in this position,
turn the drive shaft for the oil pump until it can engage
with the distributor shaft. Turn the oil pump shaft using a
large screwdriver. NOTE! Do not forget the gasket to-
wards the intake manifold. Tighten to a torque of 46 Nm
(4.6 kpm/34 ft/lb). Wrench size 9/16". Install the spark
plug cables as illustrated.

147. Install the carburetor together with a new gasket. Tight-

en to a torque of 13 Nm (1.3 kpm/9 ft/lb), wrench size
1/4" Allen.

65
 152. Attach the oil dipstick tube, socket size 9/16".

149. Install the valve covers with new gaskets. Torque to 13

Nm (9 ft/lb) when 740A, to 8 Nm (5.9 ft/lb) on 740B.
Socket size 7/16".

153. Install the fuel filter bracket and FWC heat exchanger
bracket. Socket sizes 14 mm and 5/8".

150. Install the exhaust manifold and risers. Use new gas-
kets and wavy washers. Apply “Permatex” or equiva- 154. Install the fuel pipes between filter and pump, and pump
lent sealing compound to the threads. Sleeve size 14 and carburetor. Wrench sizes 17 mm and 19 mm.
mm.
Tightening torque
Exhaust manifold .............. 54 Nm (5.4 kpm/39 ft/lb)
Riser ................................. 50 Nm (5.0 kpm/36 ft/lb)
+ angle tightening 180°

155. Install oil filter bracket, wrench size 12 mm.

156. Install the central electrics box and its cover. Wrench
sizes 10 mm and 12 mm.

151. Install the alternator and (FWC) heat exchanger brack-

et. Socket size 14 mm.

66
157. Install electric cable harness and rear lifting eye. The
cable harness should be clamped in the lifting eye.
Connect the temperature sender and choke. Wrench
sizes 3/8" and 9/16".

158. Install the alternator. The alternator V-belts must be ten-

sioned so hard that they can be depressed by thumb
pressure approx. 8–10 mm (0.315–0.394 in) midway 164. Install the lower coolant pipe between the exhaust man-
between the pulleys. Socket sizes 5/8", 12 mm. ifold and thermostat housing. Wrench size 10 mm.

159. Connect the alternator electrically; black cable: B–, red:

B +, brown (violet): D +. Push on the rubber caps.
Wrench sizes 8 mm, 10 mm.

165. FWC: Install the coolant pipe between the heat ex-
changer and oil cooler.
SWC: Install the coolant pipe between the thermostat
160. Install the oil hoses. The centre oil hose at the filter housing and oil cooler. The pipe should be clamped to
should lead to the centre connection on the engine. In- the inside of the left hand riser. Wrench size 12 mm.
stall the oil hoses’ bracket to LH cylinder head. Wrench
sizes 14 mm, 17 mm, 22 mm or 27 mm.

161. Install the thermostat housing together with a new gas-

ket. Socket size 14 mm.

162. FWC: Place the heat exchanger loosely on the brack-

ets, do not tighten the hose clamps. Install the hose be-
tween the circulation pump and heat exchanger.
SWC: Install the hose between the circulation pump
and thermostat housing.

163. Install the coolant pipes as per points 164–168. As a 166. FWC: Install the upper coolant pipe between the ther-
rule, new gaskets and O-rings should be used. mostat housing and exhaust manifold. Wrench sizes 10
mm.

67
167. FWC: Install the pipes between the heat exchanger and
riser. Wrench size 10 mm.

168. FWC: Install the hose between the thermostat housing

and heat exchanger. Align the heat exchanger and
tighten all hose clamps. Tighten the heat exchanger to
the brackets.

68
 Chapter 5 Engine block

This chapter covers the engine block and related parts as follows:

Procedure Page
5A Removing the related parts .................................................................................... 71
5B Overhauling the crankshaft assembly .................................................................... 73
5C Overhauling the camshaft ...................................................................................... 87
5D Fault-tracing and repair, ignition system ................................................................ 93
5E Installing related parts ............................................................................................ 99

Quick guide:
Replacing the rear crankshaft seal (without removing the crankshaft): Follow steps 246–254, pages 85–86.
Replacing the front crankshaft seal (without removing the timing gear casing): Follow steps 289–294, pages 90–91.

69
70
 Chapter 5A Engine block
Removal of related parts

173. Remove the circulation pump, socket size 9/16".

169. Remove the starter motor and flywheel housing.

Wrench size 9/16". If possible, the engine should be
supported. Use fixture 885050-5.

170. Remove the coolant pipes to the sea water pump. Re-
move the bracket from the engine block and remove the 174. Remove the fuel pump (740A), socket size 9/16".
hose connections. Socket size 14 mm.

171. Disconnect the oil hoses from the engine block and re-
move the oil cooler. Wrench sizes 22 mm for the oil
hoses and 12 mm for the oil cooler.

175. Remove the oil dipstick tube from the oil pan. Socket
172. Remove the sea water pump. Wrench sizes, 1/2", 5/8" sizes 13/16" or 21 mm.
and 8 mm Allen.

71
72
 Chapter 5B Engine block
Overhauling the crankshaft
movement assembly
Removal:

178. Check the chain and chain wheel for wear. Tension the
one side of the cam chain by turning the crankshaft or
camshaft. Measure the distance from a reference point
on the engine block to the outer edge of the tensioned
chain midway between the chain wheels. Tension the
cam chain’s other side and measure again from the
176. Remove the front vibration damper. Unscrew the centre
same reference point. The slackness (the difference
bolt, socket size 5/8", and use puller 884608-1. Coun-
between the measurings) must be max 12 mm (0.472
terhold at the rear of the flywheel ring gear. Insert a drift
in) in the middle of the chain.
or screwdriver through the flywheel holes and turn the
shaft so that the drift tensions against the fixture or en-
gine block.
NOTE! Do not use a claw type puller that grips around
the damper, as this will damage the vibration damper.

179. Remove the cam chain wheel and chain. Wrench size
1/2".

177. Remove the timing gear casing. NOTE! Two bolts are
attached underneath from the oil pan. Socket sizes 3/8"
and 7/16".

180. Remove the rear vibration damper. Wrench size 9/16".

73
181. Remove the flywheel. Unscrew two bolts completely 185. Remove the oil pump. Socket size 5/8".
and two half way. Use a screwdriver to counterhold
against the flywheel ring gear. Socket size 11/16".

182. Pry off the flywheel; the partially loosened bolts will act
as stops. Unscrew the bolts and lift off the flywheel.

186. Measure the crankshaft end play:

183. Turn the engine and remove the oil pan. Socket size 740A: Min. 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
9/16". Max. 0.25 mm (0.010 in)
740B: Min. 0.13 mm (0.005 in)
Max. 0.27 mm (0.011 in)

184. Remove the splash tray. Socket size 9/16" 187. Measure the connecting rods’ side play on the crank-
shaft journal.
Min. 0.33 mm (0.013 in)
Max. 0.58 mm (0.023 in)

74

188. Ensure that all connecting rods and bearing caps are
marked with cylinder number. If this is not done, then
mark them now. Each connecting rod and cap shall be
marked starting from the engine timing gear end (front).
Cylinder Nos 1, 3, 5, 7 are in the left hand side of the
engine block and 2, 4, 6, 8 in the right hand side of the
block (engine turned right side up).
189. Checking the connecting rod clearance
The connecting rods’ axial clearance on the crankshaft
journal can be done using gaging plastic, part No
856927-9. Remove the rod end bearing cap, wipe away
oil from the bearing and connecting rod journal. Place a
piece of gaging strip along the connecting rod bearing
journal; it should be as long as the bearing width. Fit the
connecting rod and cap; tighten to a torque of 66 Nm
(6.7 kpm/48 ft/lb). NOTE! The crankshaft must not be
turned, as this will damage the gaging strip.
190. Remove the bearing cap and measure the compressed
gaging strip at its widest point using the scale. Make a
note of the result and measure the remaining connect-
ing rod bearing caps. Connecting rod bearings can
wear unevenly, i.e. become oval. The out-of-round of
the connecting rod bearing journal should therefore be
checked afterwards using a micrometer, see point 216.
Should any of the journals be out-of-round but within the
permitted value (max 0.025 mm/0.0010 in), the area
with the largest diameter should be marked. Then carry
out a new check with the gaging strip placed on the
largest diameter (the marking).
191. The connecting rod bearing clearance should be
0.022–0.076 mm (0.0009–0.0030 in). Existing bearing
caps can be reused if the bearing clearance is not near
the max permissible value and they are otherwise free
from faults.
192. Remove pistons and connecting rods. Loosen the rod
end bearing caps, socket size 9/16". Press out the pis-
ton and connecting rod up through the cylinder bore.
Use tool 884944-0 as protection and guide for the con-
necting bolts when pressing out. Place the piston with
connecting rods in their installation order in a rack.
193. Checking the crankshaft’s bearing play
The main bearing clearance (radial clearance) can be
done using gaging plastic, part No 856927-9. Remove
the main bearing half for the bearing to be measured.
Wipe away oil from the bearing and shaft. Place a piece
of gaging strip along the shaft; it should be as wide as
the bearing width. Fit the bearing half and tighten to a
torque of 150 Nm (110 ft/lb). NOTE! the shaft must not
be turned, as this will damage the gaging strip.
75
 198. Remove the crankshaft. Socket size 13/16". A long
13/16" socket with at least 60 mm socket length is re-
194. Remove the bearing cap and measure the width of the quired for the inner bolts for the two centre main bear-
depressed gaging strip using the scale. NOTE. The ings. Place the marked main bearing halves in a rack.
gaging strip must not be removed before measuring.
Make a note of the measured value for each bearing.
Normally the main bearings wear evenly; if there is an
out-of-round, the measured values are probably mis-
leading. Therefore the crankshaft’s out-of-round must
be checked using micrometer according to step 216.
Should any of the crankshaft’s bearings be oval but
within the permitted value (max 0.025 mm/0.0010 in),
the are for the largest diameter should be marked. Then
carry out a new check with the gaging strip placed on
Engine block
the area with the largest diameter (the marking). 199. Wipe the cylinder bores clean. Carry out a visual check
for damage such as scratches, wear and cracks.

195. Main bearing clearance should be 0.025–0.062 mm

(0.0010–0.0024 in) for bearing No 1, 2, 3, 4 and 0.063–
0.088 mm (0.0025–0.0035 in) for bearing No 5. Existing
bearing caps can be reused if the bearing clearance is
not near the max permissible value and they are other-
wise free from faults.

196. Main bearings

The main bearings are available as replacement parts
for crankshafts with STD dim. and are ground to 0.010"
and 0.020" undersize, respectively. To obtain the cor-
rect bearing clearance in production, the engines might
be fitted with one STD main bearing half and the other
half with 0.001" undersize. This way, the bearing clear-
ance is reduced by 0.0005", i.e. 0.0127 mm.
If this is not sufficient to obtain the correct bearing
clearance, the camshaft bearing journal should be
ground to 0.009" undersize. The bearing can then have
bearing halves with 0.009" and 0.010" undersize, re-
spectively. Engines with 0.009" undersize crankshaft
are marked as follows:
● “0.009” is stamped into the front counterweight at the
centre main bearing.
● The number “9” is stamped into the block on the oil
pan’s contact surface, left hand side front.
● The crankshaft is painted light green on both sides of
the bearing in question.
197. If the crankshaft has 0.009" undersize bearing and a
new bearing is to be fitted, the crankshaft must be
ground to 0.010" or 0.020" undersize, as 0.009" bear-
ings are not available for service purposes.
200. Measure the cylinder bores using a cylinder indicator.
Measuring for greatest wear should be done directly be-
low the upper turning point and diagonally across the
engine. Measuring for the least wear should be done at
the lower turning point. The difference between measur-
ings is the conicity. Measure the cylinder out-of-round;
the difference in cylinder diameter, both diagonally and
longitudinally, is the out-of round.
Max. cylinder out-of-round ...... 0.050 mm (0.0020 in)
Max. cylinder conicity ............. 0.025 mm (0.0010 in)
201. Measure and note the measured result for all cylinders.
The cylinder with the largest wear decides if the cylin-
ders shall be bored or honed. Boring always means re-
placing the pistons to the oversize dimension of the
bore. When honing, the pistons can be re-used if free
from faults. See also steps 205–206, piston clearance,
which affects the decision whether to bore or hone.

76

202. If the cylinders do not need to be bored, they must al-
ways be honed. The honing creates a matt, checkered
surface, that holds the lube oil film and hastens the
running-in of pistons and piston rings. NOTE! The hon-
ing stones must not be used so much that the cylinder
dimensions are exceeded.
Piston rings and piston pins
203. Remove the piston rings using piston ring pliers (if ex-
isting pistons are to be re-used). Remove all carbon de-
posit and clean the piston ring grooves. Use a groove
cleaner or an old broken piston ring that is ground as
illustrated. NOTE! Steel wire brushes must never be
used for de-carbonizing.
204. Check for any damage. Cracks, knocking and over-
heating damage and damage caused by damaged pis-
ton rings must always lead to replacement of the piston.
205. Measure the pistons using a micrometer perpendicular
to the piston pin hole and approx. 6 mm (0.236 in) from
the lower turning point. Note the measured values for
each piston.
Measure the cylinder bore diameter (for each piston),
diagonally approx. 50 mm (1.969 in) down into the
bores. Cylinder bore – piston diameter is the piston
clearance.
Alternatively, the piston (without piston rings) can be
inserted into its bore and the clearance can be meas-
ured using a feeler gauge perpendicular to the piston
pin at the piston’s lower edge. Measure in several plac-
es along the bore.
Max. piston clearance 0.127 mm (0.005 in).
206. If the piston clearance is greater, the pistons must be
replaced with new ones. If the cylinder wear according
to step 200 was near the maximum wear, the bores
should be bored and the pistons replaced with the cor-
responding OS pistons to obtain good economy and
service life from the overhaul. See also step 208 piston
pin clearance.
207. Press out the piston pin using tool 884682-6. NOTE!
The piston and piston pin is a matched set. Never mix
pins and pistons so that the matching is lost.
208. Clean the parts carefully. Measure the piston pin hole
using an internal micrometer and the piston pin using an
external micrometer. If the combined clearance is more
than 0.025 mm (0.010 in), the piston and piston pin
should be replaced.
209. Check the connecting rods. Replace the connecting rod
in case of cracks or if the rod is bent or twisted. Mark
the new connecting rod with the number of the cylinder,
which it will be installed in.
77
 212. Measure the new piston rings’ gap using a feeler gauge.
210. Press in the piston pin using tool 884682-6. The piston
pin has an interference fit in the connecting rod by
0.03–0.05 mm (0.0012–0.0020 in). NOTE! The piston
and connecting rod should be assembled so that the
recess for the bearing tabs (a) is on the opposite side to
the cut out for the valve in the piston (b) according to
Fig. 211.
Insert the ring approx. 6 mm (1/4") into the cylinder
bore. (The cylinders must be finally bored or hones.) If
necessary, increase the gap using a special file.
The gap should be:
Upper compression ring .............. 0.25–0.76 mm
(0.010–0.030 in)
Lower compression ring .............. 0.25–0.89 mm
(0.010–0.035 in)
Oil ring ........................................ 0.38–1.65 mm
(0.015–0.065 in)

213. Check the piston ring clearance by first rolling the piston
rings in the groove. Measure the clearance at several
places using a feeler gauge. The clearance should be:
Compression rings: ................. 0.04–0.11 mm
(0.0016–0.0042 in)
Oil ring: ................................... 0.12–0.19 mm
(0.005–0.007 in)

211. Assembled piston-connecting rod

a) recess for bearing tab
b) cut out for valve
The arrow indicates the engine’s front direction.

214. Install the piston rings. Use piston ring pliers (not for the
oil ring). Installation is done from the bottom and up-
wards; the compression ring marking should face up-
wards, the upper piston ring is chromed. Turn the piston
rings so that the gaps are spaced approx. 120° from
each other, see step 215.

78
215. Piston ring gap positions:
A. The oil ring’s spacer ring (wavy ring), the gap within
section A 217. Clean the crankshaft’s oilways; use a gun bore brush
B. The oil ring’s scraper rings (2 pcs) or a piece of rag drenched in thinners, which can be
C. Compression ring No 2 pulled through the oilways on a welding rod. Blow all oil-
D. Upper compression ring ways clean using compressed air.
The arrow indicates the engine’s front direction

Bypass valve engine oil

Crankshaft

218. Remove the attachment housing. Wrench size 1/2".

Clean the housing and bypass valve. Make sure that
the valve diaphragm is clean and that the valve can
move freely and seals against the seat. Fit a new
O-ring and gasket. Carry on according to point 263,
camshaft overhaul, for a complete engine overhaul.
NOTE! The attachment housing should be turned with
the bypass valve’s inlet turned as shown in the illustra-
tion.

216. Check the connecting rod and main bearing journals

using a micrometer. Measure at several places around
the circumference and lengthwise. The out-of-round for
both connecting rod and main bearing journals must not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.0010 in). The taper must not ex-
ceed 0.025 mm (0.0010 in) on any of the journals. If the
measured values are near or exceed the above, the
crankshaft should be machined to the nearest under-
size. See “Technical Data”.

Carry on according to point 263, camshaft overhaul, for

a complete engine overhaul.

79
Assembly

222. Lubricate the main bearing caps and install them ac-
cording to the previous marking. NOTE! The arrow
219. Wipe clean the backs of the main bearing shells and the
must be pointing towards the engine’s timing gear end
block and cap’s bearing surfaces. The bearing shells
(front). For installation of bearing caps, see step 223–
should be installed dry. There must be no oil on the in-
226.
sert’s underside or on the block and cap.
Locate the bearing shells in the block and main caps.
The shells with oil grooves are fitted in the block. Wipe
all bearing faces clean.

223A. 740A: Apply Permatex® or similar sealing compound

to the shadowed surfaces of the rear crankshaft seal.
NOTE! The seal’s contact faces must remain dry and
no sealing compound must be applied.
220. 740A: Install the rear crankshaft seal. The sealing lip
should face inward towards the engine (towards the
front). Oil the lips lightly with engine oil; the seal ends
must remain dry.

223B. 740B: Apply anaerobic sealing compound e.g. Loctite®

221. Oil all bearings with engine oil and install the crankshaft.
The crankshaft’s bearing faces must be clean. If the
crankshaft has been machined, it must be thoroughly
cleaned.
641 to the rear bearing cap sealing face or to the rear
bearing cap channel of the engine of the engine block.
Apply from the corner of the rear thrust bearing pocket
to the edge of the channel as shown in figure. Do not
allow any sealant on either crankshaft or rear oil seal.

80
224. Clean the bolt threads using a steel brush and lubricate
the threads with Molycote® or equivalent.
225. Tighten all main bearing caps to a torque of 150 Nm (15
kpm/108 ft/lb) except for the rear one. The rear bear-
ing bolts shall be torqued to 14–16 Nm (1.4–1.6 kpm/
10–12 ft/lb). Socket 13/16", socket length min 60 mm
(2.362 in)
226. Using a lead mallet, carefully strike each end of the
crankshaft so that the crankshaft settles in place. First
knock it backwards, and then forwards. Retorque all
the main bearing caps to 150 Nm (15 kpm/111 ft/lb).
227. Install the bearing shells in connecting rod and cap. Lu-
bricate the cylinder bore, piston and main, bearing using
engine oil. Rotate the crankshaft so that the counter-
weight comes to the lower turning point for the cylinder
where the piston will be installed.
228. Fit the pistons in their original cylinders according to the
marking done earlier. Screw tool 884944-0 onto the
connecting rod bolts. Check that the recess for the
valve on the piston is facing inward towards the engine
block, see point 225. Fit a piston ring compressor and
push the piston down into the bore using a hammer
handle.
229. Pull the connecting rod in place and remove the tool
884944-0. Fit the connecting rod caps according to the
markings. Oil the threads and tighten using a torque
wrench. Tightening torque: 66 Nm (6.2 kpm/45 ft/lb).
Then check that the crankshaft can be turned.
81
Lubricating oil pump
Overhauling

232. Install the oil pump. Apply a small amount of

non-hardening sealing compound – “Permatex” or
equivalent – to the pump’s contact surface. Tighten to a
torque of 90 Nm (67 ft/lb) Socket size 9/16".

230. Remove the oil pump cover (1). Mark the gear wheels
(2, 3), so that reassembly can be done with the same
tooth mesh. Remove the gears. Remove the pressure
relief valve. Knock out the lock pin (4) and remove the
spring (5) and the piston (6). Clean all parts and dry
with compressed air. Check that the pump housing is
not worn or that the drive shaft has play due to wear. If
the pump housing or the gear wheels are worn, the en-
tire pump should be replaced (see also step 231). Re-
assemble in the reverse order. The cover (1) should be 233. Install the splash plate. Tighten to a torque of 9.0 Nm
torqued to 9 Nm (0.9 kpm/ 6.6 ft/lb). (0.9 kpm/6.5 ft/lb).

231. As replacement parts, the pump and strainer are sold

as two separate units. Hold the pump in a vice; use pro-
tective covers for the jaws. Assemble the strainer and 234. Install the crankshaft gear, if it has been removed. Use
the pump housing using tool 885006-7. Compare with tool 884530-7.
the old pump, so that the strainer is fitted at the same
angle. Then spot weld the strainer to the pump housing.
235. Install the camshaft gear and timing gear casing acc. to
points 277–283, pp. 89–91.

82
236. 740A: Fit the rubber gaskets for the oil pan’s short
ends. Brush on some sealing compound – “Permatex”
or equivalent – and turn the gasket with the checkered
pattern facing the pan.
237A. 740A: Fit the gaskets for the oil pan’s long sides. The
block must be completely free from remains of the old
gasket. Brush some fluid sealing compound on the gas-
ket and place it on the block. Apply silicone rubber (part
No 1161277-7) to the rubber gasket’s contact surface
to the composite gasket and join the gaskets together.
Apply a little silicone rubber to the joint.
237B. 740B: Clean the oil pan gasket surfaces. Place the
new gasket on the block. Put a small bead of sealing
agent (part no. 841261-1) on the corners of the oil pan,
see the arrows.
238. Install the oil pan. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 18 Nm
(1.8 kpm/13 ft/lb). Socket size 1/2". The bracket for the
oil cooler is fitted on the left hand side (engine turned
the right way up). The pan bolts into the timing gear
cover should be torqued to 8 Nm (0.8 kpm/6,0 ft/lb),
socket size 7/16"
239. Install the flywheel. Coat the inside with an antirust
agent. Oil the threads and torque diagonally to 90 Nm
(9.0 kpm/65 ft/lb). Use a screwdriver as a counterhold
in the ring gear. Socket size 11/16".
240. Install the rear vibration damper. Socket size 9/16".
NOTE! Engines with engine numbers higher than
4100115001 have five holes in the flywheel and the vi-
bration damper shall be fitted with three bolts evenly
distributed. Engines with lower numbers have six holes/
six bolts.
83
241. Install the front vibration damper. Apply a thin coat of oil
to the journal and the vibration damper’s contact sur-
face against the sealing ring. Use tool 884608-1. Use a
screwdriver as counterhold in the flywheel ring gear.
Early style

243A. Inspect the flywheel housing and replace defective

242. Apply some sealing compound - silicone rubber part
No. /161277-7 – in the keyway. Fit the centre bolt and
washer. Torque to 115 Nm (11.7 kpm/ 85 ft/lb). Socket
size 5/8".
parts. Press in and out bearings and seals using tools
884359-1, 884596-8 and 884599-2. Note how the seals
are fitted (what way they are facing) before removal.
Remove in the following order:
Remove seal (1) and the retainer rings (3) and (4).
Press the primary shaft (2) together with the bearing
(5). Remove the retaining ring (6) before pressing the
bearing off the primary shaft. Thereafter, remove the
seal (9) and retainer ring (8). Bearing (7) can then be
pressed out.
Assemble in the following order:
Press on front bearing (7) and fit the retainer ring (8).
Press the rear bearing (5) onto the primary shaft and
secure with retainer ring (6). Press in the primary shaft
into the flywheel housing and install retainer rings (4)
and (3). Install a new seal ring (9) with spring side fac-
ing inwards.
NOTE! Carefully grease the seals before they are in-
stalled. Turn the seals the correct way when installing.
Fill the space marked “A” with water resistant bearing
grease. Replace the plug (10) with a grease nipple. Use
a grease gun and force grease out through the rear
bearing (4). Install a new seal ring (1). NOTE! Install it
with the “opening” facing outwards (spring side).

Overhauling the flywheel

housing 740 DP
There are two different flywheel housings installed on the en-
gines. An earlier execution intended for 13" flywheels. Here
the primary shaft is journalled in two ball bearings. Descrip-
tion and repair instructions, see step 243A.
The later execution of flywheel housing is intended for 14"
flywheels. In this flywheel housing the primary shaft is jour-
nalled in one ball bearing. The front end of the primary shaft
is journalled in a friction bearing in the crank shaft. Descrip-
tion and repair instructions, see step 243B.

84
 Installing the flywheel housing
244. Coat the primary shaft (740DP) in the flywheel casing
with an anti-rust agent before installing the housing. Oil
the bolts and install the flywheel housing. Tighten to a
torque of 41 Nm (30 ft/lb). Socket size 9/16".

Late style

243B. Inspect the flywheel housing and replace defective

parts. Use special tools part no’s 884838-4, 884596-8 245. Install the protection plate to the flywheel housing’s un-
and 884359-1 to replace bearing and sealings. Stuff the derside. Wrench size 5/16".
bearing with water resistant grease, part no 1141509-8.
Disassemble, observing the following sequence:
Remove the sealing (1) and the locking rings (2).
“Knock out” the shaft (3) along with the bearing (4) us-
ing a rubber mallet. Then remove the sealing (5) and
then the locking ring (6). Then remove the bearing from
the shaft by pressing it off.
Assemble, observing the following sequence:
Crankshaft seal 740A
Install the new, inner sealing (5) using special tool part
Replacing the rear crankshaft seal
no 884838-4. The sealing is installed with its “opening”
facing outwards. Install the new bearing on the shaft. (without removing the crankshaft)
Use special tool part no 884596-8 and press the bear- 246. Remove the oil pan, socket sizes 1/2" and 7/16". Re-
ing onto the shaft. Install the locking ring (6). Fill up the move the oil pump, socket sizes 5/8" (deep socket).
space “A” between the sealing and the bearing shoulder Remove the rear connecting rod bearing cap, socket
with water resistant grease. Install the primary shaft in size 13/16" (deep socket).
the flywheel housing. Use special tool part no 884596-8
and press the shaft into its location. Make sure that the
locking ring (6) ends up in the machined “groove” of the
tool. Install the locking rings (2). Fill up the space “B”
with water resistant grease. Use special tool part no
884359-1 and install the new, outer sealing (1). NOTE!
The “opening” of the sealing should face outwards.

247. Remove the seal half from the cap using a screwdriver.

85

248. Remove the block’s sealing half. Knock down the seal
on the one side using brass drift – so much that it can
be pulled out using pliers on the other side.
249. Clean cylinder block and bearing cap from sealing com-
pound. Oil the sealing lips lightly with engine oil. NOTE!
The ends of the halves of the seal must remain dry.
250. An installation tool must be used when fitting the crank-
shaft seal (included in sealing kit).
86
251. Place the tool (1) between crankshaft and seat for the
sealing in the block. Place the seal half (2) between
crankshaft and tool end. Ensure that the seal is turned
with the sealing lip facing the front of the engine. Roll
the seal in around the crankshaft; use the tool as “shoe-
horn”, to protect the seal against the sharp corners of
the seal’s seat in the block. The installation tool must
remain in place until the seal ends are level with the
block surface. Fit the seal for the bearing cap (3) in the
same way. The arrow indicated the front direction of the
engine.
252. Brush on “Permatex” or equivalent sealing compound
on the shadowed surfaces. NOTE! The seal’s joining
surfaces must remain dry and no sealing
Oil the bearing half in the bearing cap and tighten to a
torque of 150 Nm (15 kpm/108 ft/lb).
253. Install oil pump and pan according to points 232–233,
236–238.
Crankshaft seal 740B
254. The rear crankshaft seal can be replaced after the fly-
wheel housing and flywheel have been removed. Pry
out the seal using a screwdriver. Make sure the crank-
shaft rear chamfer is free of grit, loose rust and burrs.
Before installing the new seal, lubricate the inner and
outer diameter of the seal with engine oil. Press in the
crankshaft seal until it bottoms.
 Chapter 5C Engine Block

Overhauling the camshaft

Removal
255. Remove related parts as per 4B, remove valve mecha-
nism as per 4D, steps 113–115. The cylinder heads
need not be removed.

256. Remove related parts as per 5A, steps 170, 172–174.

260. Remove the timing gear cover’s front bolts, socket size
3/8". Pry out the timing gear cover a little, so that a knife
blade can be inserted. Cut off the front edge of the oil
pan gasket (740A only) (both sides) level with the en-
gine block. Use a sharp knife to get a clean cut. Re-
257. Remove the belt pulley and the front vibration damper. move the bolts between oil pan and timing gear cover,
Use puller 884608-1. Socket size 5/8" for the pulley’s socket size 7/16", and remove the casing and front oil
centre bolt. gasket.

258. Overhaul procedure: When only the camshaft, cam

chain or chain gear are to be overhauled, only the tim-
ing gear casing has to be removed and the oil pan can
be left in place. The timing gear casing should then be
removed acc. to step 260. When overhauling the cam-
shaft bearings, the pan must be removed, and steps
260 and 280 should not be carried out. As in other cas-
es, when the engine is removed, we recommend that
the oil pan is removed to ensure the best sealing of the
gasket joints.

259. Remove the timing gear casing, socket sizes 3/8" and
7/16".

261. Inspect the chain and chain gear for wear. Tension the
one side of the cam chain by turning the crankshaft or
camshaft. Measure the distance from a reference point
on the engine block to the outer edge of the tensioned
chain, midway between the chain gears. Tension the
other side of the cam chain and measure again from the
same reference point. The slackness (difference be-
tween measurings) should not exceed 12 mm (0.472 in)
at the centre point of the chain.

262. Remove the cam chain gear and chain. Wrench size
1/2".

87
263. Carefully pull out the camshaft. Be careful not to dam-
age the camshaft bearing surfaces. Removal is made
easier if two long 5/16" bolts are screwed into the cam
chain gear hole to get a good grip.
268. Knock out the camshaft plug at the engine’s rear end
cover; use a wooden handle or similar with approx. 45
mm (1 2/3") diam.

264. Check the camshaft bearing journals using a microme-

ter. If the out-of-true exceeds 0.025 mm (0.0010 in), the
camshaft must be replaced. Also check the camshaft
for straightness. If it is out of true by more than 0.050
mm (0.0020 in), the camshaft must be replaced.
1. Camshaft bearing journals
2. Drive cam for fuel pump
3. Drive gear for the distributor
269. Install tool 884628-9. Press out the three centre bear-
ings first.
265. Check the cam lift height, which should be 6.89 mm
(0.271 in) for the inlet valve and 7.17 mm (0.282 in) for
the exhaust valve. Tolerance of the lift height ±0.05 mm
(0.0020 in).

266. Inspect the camshaft bearing. Ensure that there are no

heavy wear marks. Replace if necessary.

Replacing the camshaft bearings

267. Remove the oil pan, flywheel housing, rear vibration
damper, flywheel and crankshaft. The camshaft bear-
ings can be replaced with the engine completely or part-
ly dismantled. If cylinder head and pistons are to remain
in place, the connecting rod bolts must be taped to
avoid damaging the crankshaft. Also attach the con-
necting rods to the engine sides with tape, so that they
are out of the way when replacing the bearings. 270. When removing the front and rear camshaft bearings,
the puller should be fitted on a drift (included in
884628-9) and the bearings knocked out (towards the
engine centre).

88
Installing camshaft bearings
271. Install the front and rear bearings using the puller and
drift (included in tool 884628-9). NOTE! The camshaft
bearings should be installed with the oil holes located
as per Fig. 272.
NOTE! The bearings must be installed dry; the backs of
the bearings and the bearing seats must be clean and
free from oil.

272. Bearing No. 1 to 4 (counted from the front) should be in-

stalled with the oil holes aligned with the block’s oil hole.
Bearing No. 5 should be installed with the oil hole in the 6
o’clock position (engine turned the right way up).
273. Install the three centre bearings using tool 884628-9. Re-
move the tool and make sure that all oil holes are aligned
correctly. Lubricate the bearings using engine oil.
274. Install a new camshaft plug, seal with “Permatex” or
equivalent. Fit the plug flush or max. 0.8 mm (0.030 in)
deeper than the end surface.
278. Replace the timing gear cover seal. The seal is re-
moved from the front using a large screwdriver.
NOTE! Be careful not to damage the cover. Fit a new
seal using tool 884529-9; support with a wooden block
when installing.
NOTE! The seal should be fitted with the open part fac-
ing inward. Lubricate the sealing ring lips using some
engine oil.
279. Clean the gasket surfaces on the engine block and the
timing gear cover.

275. Install the crankshaft, oil sump, flywheel, rear vibration

damper and flywheel housing. See steps 219–227, 229,
232–233, 236–240, chapter 5B.

280. 740A: Cut off the marked parts from the new gasket be-
Installing the camshaft tween oil pan and timing gear cover according to the fig-
ure. Use a sharp knife to get a clean cut. NOTE! This
276. Oil the camshaft bearing surfaces with engine oil and
should only be done when the oil pan has not been re-
install the camshaft. Be careful not to damage the cam-
moved.
shaft bearings.
NOTE! If a new camshaft is installed, all the cam lobes
should be coated with “Molycote” or equivalent. When
installing a new camshaft, new valve lifters should also
be installed, see Chapter 4D.

281. 740A: Place the oil pan gasket on the timing gear cover.
277. Place the chain loosely on the cam chain gear. Turn the Press in the gasket’s guide pins in the cover’s holes.
cam and crankshaft so that their markings align with Install the gasket between the timing gear cover and
each other. Check using a ruler. Screw on the cam engine block. Brush the gasket with a thin fluid sealer
chain gear. Tighten to a torque of 26 Nm (2.6 kpm/ and fit it to the cover.
19 ft/lb). Wrench size 1/2". Apply engine oil to the cam
chain. 740B: Brush the timing gear cover gasket with a thin
fluid sealer and fit it to the cover.

89
282. Apply a 3 mm (1/8") bead of sealing compound (part
No. 1161277-7) along the joint between the engine
block and oil pan.
Replacing the front crankshaft seal
(without removing the timing gear
cover).
289. Slacken the alternator belts and remove the sea water
pump and belt pulley. Wrench sizes 1/2", 5/8" and 8 mm
Allen.

290. Remove the centre bolt, socket size 5/8". Remove the
front vibration damper. Use puller 884608-1.

283. Install the timing gear casing. The casing should be

tightened to the engine block at a torque of 10 Nm (1
kpm/7.2 ft/lb) and 8 Nm (0.8 kpm/5.8 ft/lb) to the oil pan.
Socket sizes 3/8" and 7/16".

284. Install the oil pan (when applicable) as per steps

236–238.

285. Install the vibration damper. Apply a thin coat of oil to

the bearing journal and the vibration damper’s contact
surface against the sealing ring. Use tool 884608-1.
Use a screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear as a coun-
terhold.
286. Install the centre bolt; the keyway should be sealed with
a small amount of sealer 1161277-7 before fitting the
bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to 115 Nm (11.7 kpm/
85 ft/lb).
291. Carefully pry out the seal using a large screwdriver; be
careful not to damage the timing gear cover or the shaft.
Lubricate the new sealing ring’s lips with a little engine
oil. Locate the seal with the open part facing inward;
use tool 884529-9. Knock it in until it bottoms exactly,
not more!

287. Install the valve mechanism as per 4D steps 137,

141–143 and the cylinder head’s related parts as per 4F
steps 144–149.

288. Install the engine block’s related parts as per chapter

5E.

292. Install the vibration damper using tool 884608-1.

293. Seal the keyway with some sealing compound

(1161277-7) and fit the centre bolt. Tighten to 115 Nm
(11.7 kpm/85 ft/lb).

90
294. Install the belt pulley and sea water pump. Wrench siz-
es 1/2", 5/8" and 8 mm Allen. Tension the alternator
V-belts. The belts should be tight enough so that they
will deflect 10 mm (0.4 in) when pressed with the finger
midway between the pulleys.

91
92
 Chapter 5D Engine block
Fault-tracing and repair, NOTE! The connection pins in the engine’s round connector
and the instrument panel’s rectangular connector are num-
ignition system bered differently. Nos 5 and 6, round connector, are con-
nected electrically to Nos 7 and 8, rectangular connector, i.e.
according to the cable colours. The adapter cable (26) con-
nects the two connection blocks.
Description
296. The system is a breakerless transistor ignition system.
It is signified by few included components and exact
and stable ignition positions. The electronics are com-
pletely protected against moisture, insensitive to ex-
treme temperatures, shaking and vibrations. Further-
more, it is protected against overvoltage and reversed
polarity. The system is independent of the engine
speed; it functions at all speeds above 0. Few included
components and simple fault-tracing makes it service
friendly.

Function

297. The system is mainly constructed and, from the out-

side, it looks like a “traditional” ignition system with igni-
295. Ignition system tion coil and distributor. The distributor has been
changed by replacing the breaker points and the capac-
1. Oil pressure gauge itor with electronics built into the distributor.
2. Temperature gauge
3. Voltmeter
4. Tachometer 298. The ignition coil is a high voltage coil adapted to suit the
6. Key switch electronics and therefore no ballast resistor is required.
7. Switch, instrument lighting A pulse sender in the form of a toothed wheel with 8
8. Fuse, 8 Amp slow-action teeth is fitted on the distributor shaft. This corresponds
11. Starter motor to the cams on a distributor shaft for breaker point sys-
13. Automatic fuse tems.
14. Main switch (accessory)
15. Battery
18. Distributor 299. Close to the pulse sender, with an air gap between, is a
19. Ignition coil sensor that registers the presence or absence of the
22. Speed limiter teeth. The system functions like a metal detector. The
26. Adapter cable electronic system generates current which is trans-
ferred to the sensor. The sensor comprises a fine wire
coil, encased in plastic. The coil functions as an oscilla-
Wire sizes Cable colours
tor which generates an electric field. The field is affect-
2
AWG mm R = Red ed by the presence of metal, e.g. the teeth on the pulse
16 1.5 SB = Black sender. Each time it is affected “interference” the pulse
10 6.0 PU = Purple sender creates in the field is registered by the electron-
GR = Grey ics unit, which in turn causes a transistor to electrically
close or open the primary current to the ignition coil.
The transistor has the same function as breaker points.

93
 303. Inspect the ignition cables, one at a time, and clean the
300. When a tooth is directly opposite the sensor, there is
contact points from oxidization etc. Use a
interference in the electric field creating a current with
moisture-repelling spray such as Volvo Universal oil
low frequency, to the electronics unit. The transistor is
(part No. 1161398-1) or equivalent. Clean the spark
in the “off” mode, no primary current is supplied to the
plug insulators. Clean the primary side’s (low voltage
ignition coil. This corresponds to open breaker points.
side) contact points in the same way.

Fault-tracing
304. Fault-tracing should be carried out in two steps: Fault-
tracing in the secondary circuit (high voltage),
fault-tracing in the primary circuit (low voltage). Always
start fault-tracing in the secondary wiring.
Malfunction of the ignition system often occurs due to
several contributory reasons. Do not stop fault-tracing
when one cause of the problem has been found! The
entire fault-tracing procedure must be followed.
WARNING! In case of malfunction in the high voltage
secondary unit, arcing and sparks can occur. Before
starting to work, ensure that there is no fuel or gas
301. When a gap is directly opposite the sensor, no interfer- leakage. Ventilate the boat and run the engine room
ence is caused in the electrical field by the presence of blower (if fitted) 2–3 minutes before starting to work.
metal. Current with a high frequency is supplied to the
electronics unit. The transistor is in the “on” mode, e.g. WARNING! The secondary circuit produces voltage
opens the primary current supply to the ignition coil. in excess of 10,000 V. It can be very dangerous to
This mode corresponds to closed breaker points. make contact with any of these high voltage compo-
Pre-ignition is set mechanically by the centrifugal nents. The ignition must be switched off when work-
weights while the cam angle receives the correct value ing with the high voltage secondary unit, and only
from the electronics unit when the air gap between the switched on when performing function tests.
sensor and pulse sender is correctly set.

Cleaning

Fault-tracing the secondary circuit

(high voltage)
305. The secondary circuit fault-tracing includes
● ignition coil
● distributor cap
● rotor
● ignition cables
● spark plugs

306. Ignition coil

302. Before starting any fault-tracing, all components in the
ignition system must be thoroughly cleaned. Use a mild
de-greasing agent or special purpose cleaner. Dry the
ignition coil, ignition wires and distributor. The distributor
cap should also be dried on the inside.
Check that the coil is dry and clean. Make sure that
there are no cracks in the top insulation of the ignition
coil. Check the ignition wire connections and insulation.
Check that the primary wiring is connected correctly
and making good contact.

94

307. Distributor cap and rotor
Make sure that the parts are clean and dry and that
there are no cracks. Replace if there is the smallest
crack or if the breaker points are heavily corroded or
burnt.
308. Ignition leads
Check that the ignition leads are clean and dry. Ensure
that there is good electrical contact and that the insula-
tion is not damaged. Be extra careful when inspecting
the coil lead. Remember that an engine very well can
function during normal conditions but refuse to start if
arcing takes place here e.g. in damp weather.
The ignition lead resistance should be 0 Ω, test using
an Ohm meter.
309. Spark plugs
Check the spark plugs for wear and build-up of depos-
its. Make sure that the insulator is not cracked.
310. Start the engine
If the engine starts now and runs smoothly, there is no
need to continue the fault-tracing.
311. Engine does not start
Connect an inductive sender for timing light to the igni-
tion wire between the ignition coil and distributor. Con-
nect the timing light’s supply wires. Let someone crank
the engine with the starter motor and check if the timing
light starts to flash. If the light flashes, the primary cir-
cuit (low voltage) is functioning correctly.
312. Carry out steps 305–310 again. Make sure that the diffi-
culty to start is not due to a malfunction in the fuel sys-
tem or that the timing setting has been changed e.g.
during an engine overhaul.
313. If the timing light does not flash: remove the distributor
cap and the rotor. Rotate the engine so that a tooth on
the pulse sender comes directly opposite the sensor.
Ensure that the dismantled shaft is not bent. Check and
adjust the distance between the pulse sender and the
sensor, if necessary. The distance should be 0.20–0.25
mm (0.008–0.010 in).
314. Install the distributor cap and rotor. Repeat step 311. If
the timing light still does not flash, the voltage on the pri-
mary circuit must be measured using a voltmeter.
Fault-tracing in the primary circuit
(low voltage circuit)
315. Fault-tracing of the primary circuit includes:
● battery
● measuring the resistance of the ignition coil
● checking the electronics unit
● supply circuit battery-ignition
316. First check the battery voltage. It should be between 12
and 13 V. If lower, charge the battery.
317. Make sure that the battery connections are clean and
making good contact. Clean and grease with an electri-
cally conductive grease, e.g. CRC copper paste or
equivalent. If the battery seems to be in poor condition,
carry out a thorough battery test and replace the battery
if necessary.
95
318. First rotate the engine so that the sensor comes oppo-
site a gap on the pulse sender (this corresponds to
closed breaker points). Turn the ignition key to the igni-
tion position. The primary circuit is now connected. The
value V-1 should be between 12 and 13 V. If value is
lower and the battery is fully charged as per step 316,
this indicates that the battery is short-circuited and
looses its charge rapidly.
Always carry out a voltage drop test according to steps
322. Place a screwdriver in the gap in front of the sensor.
326–329, even if a fault has been found.
V-3 should now show between 12 and 13 V. If the volt-
meter shows correct values, in spite of poor ignition,
this indicates a fault in the ignition coil.

319. Now connect the voltmeter between the ignition coil’s

+ pole and earth. This voltage (V-2) should be less than
2 V lower than V-1. Typically 0.5–1 V lower.

323. Test the coil by measuring the resistance between the

320. If V-2 has a low value, the cause for the voltage drop
must be determined, see steps 326-329.
+ and – connections (R2) in the primary circuit. The re-
sistance should be 1.25–1.4 Ω at 20°C (68°F). Then
measure the resistance in the secondary circuit (R1); it
should be 9.4–11.7 Ω at 20°C (68°F). Replace the igni-
tion coil, if necessary. NOTE! Disconnect the ignition
coil when measuring.
Connect a timing light as per step 311. Install the dis-
tributor cap and rotor. Run the engine. If the light does
not light now, there is also a fault in the electronics unit;
replace the electronics unit.

324. V-3 shows less than 4 V. Remove the connection from

321. Now connect the voltmeter between the ignition coil’s
– pole and earth. This voltage (V-3) should be between
4 and 8 V. If less than 4 V – see step 324. If more than
8 V – carry on according to step 325.
the coil’s – (minus) pole and connect only the voltmeter
to the – (minus) pole.
If the voltmeter now shows 12–13 V, this indicates that
the ignition coil is correct and there is short circuit in the
electronics. If the same value is obtained, this indicates
a faulty coil; there is an open circuit in the primary wind-
ing. Replace the coil.

96
 330. Engine speed limiter
325. V-3 is higher than 8 V, typically 12–13 V, i.e. the same
as for the coil’s + (plus) pole. This indicates poor or no
earth connection between distributor and engine block.
Such a fault is unusual, however. Carry out a test of the
distributor’s earth connection. If there is no fault here,
replace the electronics unit.
The ignition system includes an engine speed limiter.
The limiter function is to break the ignition voltage
should the preset maximum rpm be exceeded, such as
when the propeller leaves the water for a few seconds.
The speed limiter breaks at 4600 rpm. The tolerance is
±100 rpm. If the speed limiter breaks at other speeds or
continuously, replace the speed limiter. Check that the
speed limiter is faulty by removing all three connec-
tions.

326. Voltage drop supply circuit’s battery to ignition coil.

A poor connection in this circuit leads to a voltage drop
to the ignition coil. This voltage drop often results in in-
termittent ignition failure, irregular ignition, backfiring etc.

Ignition setting
327. Run the engine so that the sensor stops between two
teeth on the pulse sender.

328. Connect the + (plus) pole of a voltmeter to the battery’s 331. Test the ignition setting using a timing light on the vibra-
+ (plus) pole and the voltmeter’s – (minus) pole to the tion damper. NOTE! A workshop tachometer must be
ignition coil’s + (plus) pole. With the ignition switched used for ignition setting, not the boat’s instrument.
on, the voltage V-4 should be less than 2 V, typically Ignition setting should be:
0.5–1 V. Do not stop the test if the value is correct. 8° BTDC at 759 rpm
25° BTDC at 2500 rpm
329. Search for poor contact by moving the wire connec-
tions at the battery, starter motor, solenoid, harness
connections, ignition key and ignition coil. Should a con-
tact point change the voltmeter reading when this is
done, the connection must be removed and the faulty
connection corrected.
WARNING! Sparking might occur, so make sure that
the boat is properly ventilated!

97
98
 Chapter 5E Engine block

Installation of related parts

332. Install the starter motor. Tighten to 68 Nm (6.8 kpm/
49 ft/lb). Wrench size 9/16"

339. Install the coolant pipes with bracket to the block. Tight-
en the hose connections to the sea water pump. Socket
size 14 mm.

333. Connect the cables to the starter motor. Yellow/red ca-

ble is connected to S.

334. Install the oil dipstick tube to the pan. Socket size
13/16".

335. Install the fuel pump, socket size 9/16" (740A).

336. Install the circulation pump with new gaskets. Socket

size 9/16".

337. Install the sea water pump. Wrench sizes 1/2", 5/8 mm
Allen.

338. Install the oil hoses and the oil cooler. Wrench sizes 12
mm, 22 mm.

99
100
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AB Volvo Penta
Customer Support
Dept. 42200
SE-405 08 Gothenburg
Sweden
7733187-4 English 09–2000