Taiwan Panorama 2018 Nov

全球．在地．人文
台灣光華雜誌
中華民國107年11月第43卷第11期
中英文北美版
Vol. 43 No. 11 November 2018
CHINESE–ENGLISH BILINGUAL MONTHLY ISSN 1991-525X
11
Taiwan Panorama
島嶼身世
Living Island:
Taiwan’s Geoparks
島嶼身世﹒地質物語
地質物語
千年女王的回眸
台三線「樟之細路」
南方以南藝術計畫
山苦瓜的蛻變
中華民國一〇七年十一月
第四三卷第十一期
建議售價
NT$150
US$5
HK$40
¥600
羅屋書院
The Lo House
圖／文•林旻萱　版面設計•王敬勛
竹關西鎮的羅屋書院，
新是座紅磚與石瓦砌起 T he Lo House, in Hsinchu County’s Guanxi Town-
ship, is a Hakka-style three-sided compound
built of stone and red brick. The spirit that inspired
的客家三合院，百年前羅氏
家族於此開辦私塾的教育精 the Lo family to found a private school here a cen-
神，現今由後代子孫繼承， tury ago is carried on by their descendants, who pass
為來往旅客傳頌著古宅歷史 along the positive values of Hakka culture to visitors.
與客家文化的良善價值。 (photo and text by Lin Min-hsuan/tr. by Phil Newell)
編人的
編者絮話語
福爾摩沙地質之美
文．陳亮君
中華民國107年11月1日出版（月刊）／
中華民國65年1月1日創刊
大地就像一本內容豐富的書，透過地質，透過廣播與行腳節目，將台灣的美好，讓更
出版者光華畫報雜誌社在動輒數以百萬年計的時間尺度中，發現多人看見。創意、熱情與堅持，是他們共同
發行人／吳釗燮
Publisher: Jaushieh Joseph WU
社長／陳銘政專屬於這塊土地的故事與軌跡。而台灣別的標記，經過時間的淬鍊，終能發光發熱。
Director: Henry M.J. CHEN
總編輯／陳亮君（代理）
Editor-in-Chief (acting): Ivan CHEN
具一格的地質美景與資源，如何與在地結而另有些人則是透過信仰，找到心靈的
副總編輯／陳亮君
Deputy Editor-in-Chief: Ivan CHEN 合，達到世界地質公園中「地景保育」、寄託與歸宿，讓自己充滿能量後繼續前
文稿主編／曾蘭淑
Editor: Esther TSENG
文稿副主編／郭玉平「環境教育」、「地質旅遊」與「社區參行。八天七夜的白沙屯媽祖徒步進香，每
Deputy Editor: Camille KUO
文字編輯／鄧慧純陳群芳蘇俐穎
Writers: Cathy TENG, CHEN Chun-fang,
與」的核心價值，是此次的報導重點。一雙充滿皺紋的手、每一個眼眸都有著故
Lynn SU
版面主編／胡如瑜因此，本期《光華》從北至南，精選出北事，這是台灣庶民的寫照，也惟有深入鄉
Director of Layout: HU Ju-yu
美術編輯／蕭郢岑王敬勛
Art Editors: HSIAO Ying-tsen, Henry WANG 部海岸的野柳地質公園、鼻頭龍洞地質公間才能看到。
攝影組召集人／莊坤儒
Photographic Coordinator: CHUANG Kung-ju
攝影組長／林格立
園，雲林的草嶺地質公園，台東的利吉泥岩 * * *
Photographic Director: Jimmy LIN
攝影編輯／林旻萱惡地地質公園，深入探訪其與社區、產業、台灣有豐沛的自然、歷史與人文風景，
Photojournalist: LIN Min-hsuan
英文編輯／陳瑩潔唐樂榕倪凱駿
English Editors: Audrey CHEN, Robert TAYLOR, 旅遊及教育的關係，讓稀有地景的探索與人「樟之細路」是浪漫台三線計畫中最「浪
Phil NEWELL
日文編輯／山口雪菜施家騏
Japanese Editors: YAMAGUCHI Yukina,
文結合，也讓閱讀充滿了驚喜與啟發。漫」的一個章節，是一群人探著未知的路
* * *
Shila SHIH
印尼文編輯／陳德銘徑，只為了串起一段段故事的歷程；在台
Indonesian Editor: Temmy WIRYAWAN
越南文編輯／武秋香
Vietnamese Editor: VU Thu Huong
什麼樣的動力與契機，讓4位政大碩士班九線，來自世界各地的藝術家，藉由20
資深行政編輯／段蜀華
Senior Administrative Editor: DUAN Shu-hwa 的同學，以賣咖啡的收入，至今在中南美件藝術創作，為南迴搭建起對外的藝術橋
總監／鍾宜蓉
Marketing Director: Carianne CHUNG 洲、非洲等地蓋了7所幼兒園，並實現了用梁，吸引人們前往探索島嶼之南；而竹塹
業務協理／陳俊偉
Deputy Manager: CHEN Jyun-wei
綜合服務組長／陳淑英
才智創業，用獲利改造世界的夢想。又是的「古」，讓人留連忘返，300年的歷史痕
Chief of General Affairs: CHEN Shu-ing
綜合服務組／李淑慧什麼樣的研發過程，讓台灣山苦瓜從默默跡，透過城市空間的活化再利用，展現出
General Affairs: S.H. LEE
發行組／何世隆
Circulation: HO Shih-lung 無名到各家大廠競相爭取授權。創意，源歷久彌新的風采。
社址／中華民國台灣台北市10051中正區天津街2號自於熱情，而熱情必回饋於大眾，才能長本期《光華》將帶您走過台灣最原始的地
Address: No. 2, Tianjin Street, Taipei 10051,
Taiwan, ROC
郵政信箱／10099台北復興橋郵政第8-398號信箱長久久。質、最古老的步道，以及挖掘出各領域不
E-mail: service@taiwan-panorama.com
PO Box 8-398, Taipei Fuxing Bridge, Taipei City
10099, Taiwan, ROC
來自越南的范瑞薔薇對台灣這塊土地的熱斷創新的職人精神，就如同山苦瓜的蛻變
l
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傳真機／ Fax: +886-2-2397-0655 愛，並不亞於許多土生土長的在地人。她般，有著無可限量的未來。
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本刊物印刷油墨使用環保認證大豆油墨
Formosa, the Beautiful Isle EDITOR’S NOTE
O ur land is like a book that lies waiting

to be read. Through geology, which
measures time in millions of years, what
Tuong Vy, from Vietnam, holds a love for
Taiwan no less encompassing than its natives.
Through her radio, TV and online travel
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in Latin America and Africa, utilizing their imaginative uses of city spaces convey a style
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目次
CONTENTS 中華民國107年11月第43卷第11期 Vol. 43 No. 11 November 2018
封面故事 Cover Story
6
6 千年女王的回眸
野柳珍稀地景與漁村史料
Not Just the Queen’s Head:
Geology and History in Yeliu
文•李珊瑋　圖•林格立
18 萬變草嶺•島嶼縮影
首座由下而上推動的地質公園
The Island in Microcosm
—Ever-Changing Caoling
文•郭玉平　圖•莊坤儒
28 惡地結好果
18
利吉泥岩惡地
Good Fruit from Bad Land
—The Liji Badlands
文•曾蘭淑　圖•林格立
38 東北角最美校園
鼻頭龍洞環境教育
Environmental Education at Bitou
Elementary
—The Northeast Coast’s Most Scenic
School
文•陳亮君　圖•林旻萱
影像對話 Photo Essay
38
56 白沙屯媽祖徒步進香紀實
（信徒篇）
The Baishatun Mazu Pilgrimage (II)
圖•光華攝影組　文•莊坤儒
編者的話來自地方的明信片
Editor’s Note Postcards from Home
2 福爾摩沙地質之美 1 羅屋書院 52 月月好讀

Formosa, the Beautiful Isle The Lo House Variety Pages
文•陳亮君圖／文•林旻萱洪蘭
封面說明：
徧布奇岩的野柳海岸，和草嶺、利吉惡地及鼻頭龍洞等
地質公園一同訴說著台灣的地質身世。（林格立攝．蕭郢岑設計）
Cover: The strangely eroded rocks and other fascinating
landforms on view in Taiwan’s geoparks document our island’s 全球視野 Global Outlook
unique geological history. (photo by Jimmy Lin, design by Hsiao Ying-tsen)
68 用夢想改變世界
IMPCT咖啡
A Dream Can Change the World
—IMPCT Coffee
島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan
76 台三線「樟之細路」
浪漫與慢行的大道
76
The Raknus Selu Trail
—A Slow, Romantic Journey
文•鄧慧純　圖•林旻萱
88 竹塹300年
舊中求變•創造對話
Hsinchu 300 Expo
—New Directions for a Historic City
文•鄧慧純　圖•林旻萱
藝文脈絡 Cultural Trends
98 南迴地景再想像
98
Reimagining the Nanhui Landscape:
The “Hidden South” Art Project
文•蘇俐穎　圖•莊坤儒
產業新創 Entrepreneurship
108 茹苦含辛廿年
山苦瓜的蛻變
Twenty Years of Bitter Labor
—The Transformation of the Bitter Melon
多元族群 Communities
108
116 情留台灣的越南薔薇
越語廣電主持人的心路歷程
A Vietnamese Rose in Taiwan
—Tuong Vy’s Journey to Success
文•郭玉平　圖•林旻萱
封面故事　
COVER STORY
6 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

千年女王
的回眸
野柳珍稀地景與漁村史料
Not Just the Queen’s Head:

Geology and History in Yeliu
文•李珊瑋　圖•林格立　版面設計•胡如瑜
占地24公頃的野柳地質公園，最近幾年來，一年遊客數約達250萬人。
Annual visitors to the 24-hectare Yehliu Geopark have typically numbered
about 2.5 million in recent years.
7
迤邐長達1.7公里的野柳岬，野柳地質公園裡，隨處可見「節理」在入東海的岬角，像是躺臥的睡
岩層脆弱面切割的軌跡。
風貌迥異的嶙峋奇石，氣勢磅 The rocks throughout Yehliu Geopark are 美人，修長的身形，長達1.7公
riven by fractures—known as “joints”—that
礡地列陳其上。千古以來，宛 cut into the fragile exposed strata. 里，苗條的腰線，僅有250公尺
若鑲嵌在北海岸上的五彩寶寬，它就是野柳地質公園。雖然
石，隨著四季輪替，幻化出璀只有區區24公頃，卻受到世界地
璨的光芒。舉世罕見的珍稀地漁獲量的銳減，蕞爾腹地的侷質專家無盡的讚嘆。「野柳最
景，2003年成為全台第一座地限，產官學攜手，力圖翻轉，珍貴的地方，就是它的地質環
質公園，集結陸、海、空的豐用對鄉土的愛，豐富的漁村人境。」野柳地質公園總經理楊景
富自然生態，在國際間聲名遠文，守護野柳地景。謙說。差距多達數百萬年的不同
揚。地層，不約而同站上地表舞台，
憑恃岬灣的天然屏障，三百是地質學上的活教室。
沉積數千萬年的甦醒
多年前，野柳已然成為北海岸地層就是地球演化的年輪，
最大的天然漁港。矗立在東海 600萬年前，「菲律賓海板當地殼變動時，使出洪荒之力，
上的單面山，彷彿昂首傲視的塊」碰撞「歐亞大陸板塊」，啟把數千萬年前，沉積在海平面下
靈龜，在詭譎洶湧的波濤中，動了「蓬萊造山運動」，台灣數千公尺的岩層們，逐一喚醒。
堅毅守護著野柳漁村。隨著島緩緩浮出海面。東北角上，插這股強大的推升力量，硬生生地

A host of oddly shaped, jagged
hoo doo outcrops are strik-
ingly arrayed on Yeliu Cape, which
fish catches, and with Yeliu Village’s
limited land area, business, aca-
demia and government have joined
extends 1.7 kilometers into the hands in a forceful effort to over-
ocean. With a landscape virtually come adversity. Together they are
unmatched elsewhere, in 2003 it harnessing the local culture and the
became the site of Taiwan’s first- affection for the land prevalent in
ever “geopark.” Endowed with rich this fishing community in order to
wildlife, sea life and bird life, its conserve Yeliu’s unique topography.
野柳地質公園中，清晰可見台灣特有的
reputation has spread far and wide. 野柳星盾海膽、圓碟海膽等生物的「實
Thanks to the barrier formed by Ancient sediments 體化石」。
Clearly visible in Yehliu Geopark are
the cape, more than 300 years ago Six million years ago, two tectonic the “body fossils” of creatures such as
Yeliu was already the largest natu- giants—the Philippine Sea Plate Astriclypeus yeliuensis and Echinodiscus
yeliuensis, two species of early Miocene
ral fishing port on the North Coast. and the Eurasian Plate—collided, “sand dollar” sea urchins that have been
found only in Taiwan.
But in the wake of a sharp decline in kickstarting the Peng lai Orogeny,
a mountain -building process that
caused the island of Taiwan to slowly
emerge from the ocean. Today, on Tai-
wan’s North Coast, projecting into the view at Yeliu, in New Taipei City’s
East China Sea, there lies like a sleep- Wanli District.
ing beauty a slender-bodied, slim- As you stroll in Yehliu Geopark,
waisted swathe of land 1.7 kilometers clearly visible underfoot are the
long and 250 meters wide: Yeliu Cape, “body fossils” of creatures unique to
which is home to Yeh liu Geopark. Taiwan, such as Astriclypeus yeliuensis
Covering a mere 24 hectares, this “liv- and Echinodiscus yeliuensis, two spe-
ing geology classroom” has won high cies of “sand dollar” sea urchins from
praise from geologists worldwide. the early Miocene era. Other signs of
Like the annual growth rings of life, like cavities where shallow-water
trees, the strata (layers) of rock that sea creatures foraged or sheltered,
are formed by the accumulation of have formed precious “trace fossils.”
sediment on the seabed over millions These fossils are found in Ye liu’s
of years bear witness to the earth’s principal rock strata, those of the Da-
evolution. When powerful move- liao Miocene Formation, which dates
沉積岩中，礦物質聚積出相對堅硬的團 ments of the earth’s crust thrust these from 20–24 million years ago.
塊，形成「結核」，有球狀、匾圓形或 rock strata above the surface of the Yeliu’s rock strata are comprised
不規則形狀。
Minerals within sedimentary rocks may sea, they may be sculpted by the wind mainly of limestone, shale and cal-
accumulate to form relatively hard deposits and the waves into new forms—such careous sandstone stacked one upon
known as nodules, which come in all kinds
of shapes: spheroid, oblate or irregular. as those that are exposed to human another. These layers of rock are of
9
燭台石旁的鯉魚石，地形險惡，流傳著
一個淒涼的傳說，述說野柳人討生活的
艱辛。
Carp Rock, seen here with several candle-
shaped rocks, is associated with hair-
raising stories about the dangers that the
people of Yeliu once faced in wresting their
living from the sea.
varying degrees of hardness, and

when undergoing erosion by wind,
rain and seawater, some are trans-
formed into granules of fine sand that
are carried away by wind or waves,
while the nodules of more resistant
material within them are left behind,
standing their ground tenaciously. The
composition of each rock therefore dif-
把海底跨越千萬年的演化，膠結石灰質砂岩、頁岩、鈣質砂岩相 fers depending on which ingredients
堅硬的岩石層，毫無保留的裸露互堆疊組成。這些硬度不同的岩 have been retained or lost, and it is
these materials—subsequently carved
在天地間。繼而在風與海的雕琢層，在風雨和海水浸蝕的造化
by the deft hands of Mother Nature—
下，以全新面貌，在野柳與世人下，有些化為細沙，隨風逐浪而
that give Yeliu’s outcrops their varied
相遇。逝，有些堅硬的「結核」，固守
and fantastical looks.
走在野柳地質公園中，腳下陣地，頑強屹立不搖。每塊岩石 Living geology
清晰可見台灣特有的野柳星盾海中，去留的成分各有不同，造就 Established in 1964 as the Yeh liu
膽、圓碟海膽等生物的「實體化野柳在大自然的巧手下，雕琢鏤 Scenic Area, Yeh liu Geopark offers
石」。以及在演進洪流中，淺海刻出多變的奇特風貌。 beautiful sights wherever you look.
生物覓食、躲藏的孔穴，這些 “The array of candle-shaped rocks
活的地質，吸引全世界駐足 here is the most complete anywhere
生命軌跡，形成了珍貴的「生痕
in the world,” proudly remarks Marti
化石」。這些化石，見證野柳地 1964年成立的野柳風景區，
C.C. Yang, the geopark’s general man-
區的主要岩層，是距今2,000到一直是台灣人最美的記憶，蕈狀
ager. Some 180 mushroom-shaped
2,400萬年前，新生代中新世野岩、薑石、燭台石，觸目所見都 boulders are clustered in the park,
柳群大寮層。而這個屬於淺海相是美景。「完整陣列式的燭台 and their dynamism is striking. Hel-
的地層，又直接沉積在具有豐富石，可說是世界唯一。」楊景謙 ena Tang, assistant general manager,
濱海植物，更古老的木山層上，以野柳為傲。180個蕈狀岩集結 who has worked at the park for over
在園區內，氣勢令人震懾。「石 two decades, observes that “the colors
兩者一起抬升浮出海面，使野柳
of the rocks change with the seasons.”
岩層構造，更加錯綜複雜。頭的顏色，四季都不同。」野柳
One pair that look just like a man and
像是五花肉切面的帶狀岩塊地質公園副總經理湯錦惠說。有
a woman formerly directed their gazes
中，宛如肌肉的水平和交錯層一對酷似男女的蕈狀石，原本一 frontward; but now, it seems that his
理，細膩述說著千萬年間，久齊望向前方，現在竟然發現男生 face has turned to look at hers. “Yeliu’s
遠的環境變化。野柳地層主要由的臉已經轉向女生。在園區服務 rocks are alive,” exclaims Tang.

由於岩石硬度不同，在風化過程中，
形成凹凸的切割面。
Due to their varying levels of hardness,
different parts of the rocks erode at
different speeds, producing gnarly,
outlandish shapes.
11
黑潮和親潮流經野柳外海，形成資源
豐沛的漁場。
The nutrient-rich Kuroshio and Oyashio
ocean currents pass close by Yeliu Cape,
endowing the nearby seas with abundant
fish stocks.
來的變遷，風化、海蝕的巨大力
量，讓人無比驚愕，也憂心野柳
地標瀕臨倒塌，岌岌可危。「地
質學家都在預測，它什麼時候會
斷頭？」昔日共同的美好回憶，
而今卻要殘酷地面對它毀滅的危
機，真是情何以堪？
環境教育，保育珍貴資源
「我們不應該去逆轉大自然
的力量，但是可以不做人為的破
壞。」楊景謙說。2002年台灣大
學地理環境資源學系教授林俊
全，曾對野柳的地景保育進行深
入研究。2006年新空間國際有限
公司受政府委託經營，管理野柳
地質公園。在解說員大力宣導帶
領下，依循園區木棧道的動線參
觀，避免遊客碰觸、撫摸、踩踏
珍稀地景。
「我們是用世界地質公園的
理念，進行規劃。」楊景謙說。
野柳的遊客數，在2014年達到歷
二十多年的湯錦惠直呼：「野柳鐵離子沖刷出來，隨著水分滲入史巔峰，創下一年入園人數330
的石頭是活的。」「節理」中，造成色澤多變的紋萬的新高，單日最高達1萬9,500
地質公園中一條條像下水道理。「野柳的風化紋，是極具特人。「站在環境保護的立場，我
的「節理」，都是脆弱的岩層在色的特殊地貌。」必須考量園區的承載力。」遊人
默默地釋放壓力，或是讓岩石碎最負盛名的女王頭，已經佇如織，沒有讓楊景謙忘卻初衷。
裂兩半，或是讓平面成為溝渠。立在野柳地質公園四千多年，新空間關注的，不只是商業營
那股下切的力道，由淺而深，不歷經萬劫，風化浪淘，才得成利，更把環境教育，列為重要的
斷進行，最終成為海蝕溝。「我型。「現在女王頭頸部最細的部經營項目。2012年獲得環保署環
們每天都要巡守園區，記錄環境位，只剩下124.6公分。」楊景境教育場域認證，「我們安排了
的變化。」因為風雨把岩石裡的謙說。比對老照片中，半世紀以 13套課程，有7套得到認證。」

The rocks in the geopark contain tions of the park guides, keep to the association has published three books
many discrete “joints,” or crevices. boardwalks, and refrain from striking chronicling the lifestyle and history
These are points where a weakened or touching the rocks, or trampling of the “Vasai Fishing Village”of Yeliu.
rock layer is silently releasing pres- the landscape. Since 2012, more than 170 tours and
sure, the layer has split into two, or “We designed our plans according activities have been organized, bring-
has been flattened into a channel. The to UNESCO’s concept of the ‘Global ing renown to the village.
downward force continually proceeds Geopark,’” says Yang. The number of With the Guide to Va sai Fishing
from shallow to deep, and will even- visitors to the park peaked in 2014, Village Culture and Relics in hand,
tually result in a “sea-eroded trench.” setting a new annual high of 3.3 mil- strolling through the rising and fall-
The park’s most renowned attrac- lion and a new daily high of 19,500. ing terrain and along the snaking
tion, the Queen’s Head, named for “From the standpoint of environmen- lanes, you might be surprised to
its resemblance to the famous bust tal protection, I must consider the learn that—like Lukang—Yeliu has a
of Queen Nefertiti in the collection park’s capacity.” Neo-Space focuses narrow “Breast Brushing Alley.” The
of the Egyptian Museum of Berlin, on environmental education. In 2012, Va sai Cultural Center, named “Va-
has stood at Yeliu for more than 4,000 the geopark was certified by the En- sai Residence,” has in recent years
years. Notes Yang: “The thinnest vironmental Protection Agency as become a must-see site for explor-
part of the queen’s neck now mea- an “eco-education” site. “We have ing fishing-village culture. Thanks
sures just 124.6 centimeters around.” arranged 13 curriculums, and seven to Tang’s boundless creativity, the
Alarmingly, Yeliu’s principal land- of them have been certified.” “Cultural Carnival”—featuring such
mark is on the verge of collapse. In the words of their elders activities as the Palanquin Parade,
Eco-friendly education In 2004, Helena Tang established the Harbor Cleansing Ritual, Mazu’s
“We should not seek to work the Vasai Fishing Village Culture As- Homecoming, Getting to Know Local
against the power of nature, but we sociation, which takes its name from Seafood, DIY Seaweed Noodles, and
can avoid inflicting manmade dam- the Vasai people, a branch of the Ke- Savoring Wanli Crabs—closely links
age,” says Yang. In 2006, the gov- tagalan Aborigines. Tang was elected Yeliu’s geological landscape with
ernment commissioned Neo-Space chairwoman, and she put her heart fishing-village culture by involving
International Co., Ltd. to manage into working with the association to traditional religion, local foodstuffs
Yehliu Geopark. The firm vigorously preserve precious historical materi- and community participation.
urges visitors to follow the instruc- als. Based on in-depth interviews, the The association has published
Yehliu Geopark on Foot: Fishing Gear
and Techniques, which details the evo-
lution of fishing knowhow since an-
tiquity. Borrowing a classroom from
Yehliu Elementary School, it has also
set up a small museum to preserve
and display fishing gear from earlier
times, ensuring that visitors and the
next generation can more deeply ex-
perience fishing-village culture.
野柳最有名的「棒受網」漁業，以捕撈
趨光性的魚類為主。
Yeliu’s fishermen are famous for their
practise of using lights to lure fish into
the nets.
13
摸乳巷。刻意保存的土角厝，粗內燭台石旁的鯉魚石，用當地流
在耆老口中，留住文化軌跡
糙斑剝的咕硓石，像滿臉風霜的傳的台語俗諺，傳神地表達出野
2004年湯錦惠用平埔族音譯的老人，述說著數百年來，海口人柳人討生活的艱辛。「那個下面
「瑪鋉」為名，成立新北市萬里的智慧。瑪鋉文化館——「瑪鋉是一個海溝，海菜很豐富，以前
區瑪鋉漁村文化生活協會（以下居」，這幾年來成為探索漁村人的海女，都想去那裡作業，可以
簡稱：協會），並當選理事長，文的重鎮。「屋前小廣場，辦過多一些收獲。」但是因為地形險
共同為保存漁村珍貴史料投注心桌，好熱鬧。」文化嘉年華—— 惡，風急浪猛，岩石濕滑，一旦
力。「野柳有很多值得保存的漁來弄輦、魚陣、神明淨港文化掉下去，凶多吉少。
具、漁法，卻因為耆老日漸凋祭、野柳媽祖回娘家遶境、來呷
瑪鋉再起，展現海口人氣魄
零，可能都要失傳。」一股愛鄉討海飯、藻麵DIY、感蟹萬里，
里的熱情，讓原本在家相夫教子創意無限的湯錦惠，配合傳統宗「漁村的生活是很艱苦的，
的婦女們，勇敢的站出來。「如教信仰，運用在地食材和社區參海是沒有蓋子的棺木。」想到昔
果我們不做，下一代都不知道祖與，把野柳的地景和漁村人文緊日站在家中陽台，海風呼嘯，手
先是怎麼生活的。」協會透過深緊密合。中牽著稚齡的兒女，遠遠地看著
度訪談，出版了3本書，記述瑪野柳最有名的「棒受網」漁夫婿出海作業。那種無助、企
鋉漁村的身世。2012年至今做了業，捕撈趨光性的魚類。「由罟盼的悲淒，湯錦惠至今仍深印
一百七十餘場漁村導覽和活動，母船、罟仔船、火船，三條船12 在腦海中。
把瑪鋉漁村的聲名打響。個人一起出海作業。」協會不僅海洋資源的枯竭，漁民感受
拿著《瑪鋉漁村文物導覽手出版《走看野柳》，詳細記載最深。「有時候沒有捕到魚，回
册》，遊走在高低起伏，彎曲古早的漁法和演進，並且由野柳來都垂頭喪氣。」風險很高，但
狹窄的巷弄間，驚嘆野柳也有國小提供一間教室，設立「漁村是收獲不見得成正比。「野柳的
生活館」，把古早的漁具保存展漁婦一直都會幫忙家裡生計。」
示，讓遊客和下一代深入體驗漁高齡八十多歲的海女阿嬤林劉碧
村人文。蘭、林方彩雲的海海人生，看盡
港邊堆疊如山的螃蟹籠，不野柳的滄海桑田。
時入港卸貨的漁船，顯示野柳「我們覺得很急迫，再不抓緊
港依然是近海漁業的重鎮。時間，就會來不及了。」《歲月
「蟹籠如果生鏽，就抓不到螃流金》記述消逝中的文化軌跡，
蟹了。」協會總幹事蔡彩芳透由耆老口中，保留住即將消失的
露出漁民才知道的小祕密。記憶。「這張野柳文化地圖是用
接地氣的導覽，充滿感性與知手繪的，上面的說明，也是協會
性，飽含原汁原味的生命力。理事寫的。」協會引領社區居民
「石鐘、石乳、鯉魚進水，深度參與史料文物的保存。「每
老鼠吃貓乳。」湯錦惠指著園區次活動的道具以及文創作品，都
野柳的摸乳巷，在新每年農曆4月16日是金山慈護宮媽祖回娘家的大日子，
舊牆面對峙間，穿越在野柳地質公園海蝕洞進行祭典。（瑪鋉漁村文化生
時空。活協會提供）
Time travel: Yeliu’s Mazu’s Homecoming: Each year on the 16th day of the
intimate “Breast Brushing fourth lunar month a celebration is held at Yehliu Geopark’s
Alley” comprises a pair Mazu Cave to mark the return of Mazu from Cihu Temple in
of walls, one old and nearby Jinshan to her “ancestral home.” (courtesy of Vasai
one new. Fishing Village Cultural Association)

協會總幹事蔡彩芳指著百年古厝
「瑪鋉居」，牆面上的「人字砌」，
象徵人丁興旺。
Cai Caifang, director of the Vasai Fishing
Village Culture Association, points at the
wall of the century-old “Vasai Residence.”
The stones are laid in a herringbone
pattern, resembling large numbers of the
Chinese character ren (人), “person.” Cai
explains that this symbolizes an abundant
working population for the village.
abundant in that spot and promised

a good harvest, all the local women
wanted to collect seaweed there.” But
the terrain was treacherous, the wind
strong, the waves wily, and the rock
Testament to local spirit eral famous formations, including a surfaces slippery. If one fell in, one
“Stone clock, stone breasts, a carp pair of conical candle-shaped rocks would be lucky to survive.
jumps out of the water, a mouse sucks and the Carp Rock behind them. Of “Life in the fishing village was very
on a cat’s nipple.” To vividly evoke course, a mouse is playing with its arduous, for the ocean is a coffin with-
the hardship of life in years gone by, life if it tries to suckle at a cat’s teats. out a lid,” says Tang with emotion.
Tang recites an earthy Taiwanese - “Below Carp Rock was a trench,” As marine resources have been ex-
language saying that alludes to sev- explains Tang. “Since seaweed was hausted, it is the people who earned
15
是我們親手做的。」蔡彩方驕傲愛，必定發光發熱；心中有願
的說。景，也必定築夢踏實。」湯錦惠
「我們不只有女王頭，整個野說。坐擁天賜珍寶，野柳人沒有
柳都是寶庫。」湯錦惠說。園區辜負上天的恩澤，要用愛守護，
內高聳的單面山鬱鬱蔥蔥，孕育代代傳承。 □
了兩百多種植物。闊葉林則成為
候鳥過境棲息的天堂，至今記錄
幾近有300種。養分充裕的兩股
洋流，帶來多樣性的海洋生物，
野柳地標女王頭，一直默默守護著山海
極具研究價值。
間的純樸子民。
千古以來，野柳岬默默守護 Yeliu’s landmark: The Queen’s Head stands
silent guard over her people in their home
著山海間的純樸子民，「心中有 located between the mountains and the sea.
their livelihood from the sea who feel leads the way for residents to fully Down the ages, Ye liu Cape has
it the hardest. “Local women have participate in preserving historical watched over its people living be-
always played a role in supporting materials and cultural relics. tween mountain and sea. Says Tang:
their families,” says Tang. Two octo- “The Queen’s Head is not our “If you have love in your heart,
genarian grandmothers, fishermen’s only attraction,” asserts Tang. “All of you are bound to radiate light and
wives Lin-Liu Bi lan and Lin-Fang Yeliu is a treasure house.” The tower- warmth; if you have a vision in your
Caiyun, have lived through Yeliu’s ing cuesta in the park is lush and heart, you are sure to build a robust
good times and bad. hosts more than 200 plant species. Its dream.” Located amongst treasures
“There’s no time to lose. If we broadleaved woodland is a paradise bequeathed from on high, the resi-
don’t hurry, it will soon be too late.” where migratory birds can pause on dents of Yeliu have not disappointed
Through the words of the elderly, the their journey. To date, nearly 300 spe- their benefactor, and they intend to
book Golden Times of Yesteryear docu- cies have been recorded. Two ocean guard them lovingly and pass them
ments a culture that is disappearing, currents, rich in nutrients, bring on from generation to generation. l
preserving memories that would diverse marine life and offer great (Lee Shan Wei/photos by Jimmy Lin/
otherwise be lost. The association research value. tr. by Bruce Humes)
封面故事　
COVER STORY
萬變草嶺
島嶼縮影
首座由下而上推動的地質公園
The Island in Microcosm

—Ever-Changing Caoling
文•郭玉平　圖•莊坤儒　版面設計•蕭郢岑

草嶺水濂洞
Water Curtain Cave
19
你有看過會飛的山嗎？ 1999 下，才有如此奇譎的造化，形同前，居民就搶修完畢，開通中坪
年 9 月 21 日夜裡，台灣發生一台灣地質景觀的縮影。及下坪兩條商店街的縱貫道路。
場驚天動地的大地震，雲林縣套一句網路流行語「不能只有其實，草嶺地質公園從成立之
草嶺地區的堀畓山向南崩落約我看到」，為了讓更多人認識草初就是由下而上所發起。
3.5 公里，走山的土石體積估計嶺，社區居民跟隨國際地景保育草嶺是台灣1980年代重要休閒
達 1 億 2 千萬立方公尺，相當發展的趨勢，2004年促成政府設旅遊景點之一，921地震重創土
於 41 棟 101 大樓，移動時間不置「草嶺地質公園」，是台灣第地，過去號稱「草嶺十景」就有
到 3 秒，簡直是用飛的。這座一個由社區居民推動、政府立牌三景因為地震消失，導致觀光人
山「南飛」的同時，土石堵住的地質公園。潮銳減，嚴重影響當地的經濟。
清水溪河段形成堰塞湖「新草但是，地震飛山和隨之形成的
社區守護．落實保育
嶺潭」，幾年後又潰堤消失，「新草嶺潭」，吸引來地質學者和
迄今 19 年間，草嶺的大地景觀今（2018）年8月下旬，台灣中大眾的關注，一度重啟觀光熱潮。
不斷變化中。南部遇熱帶性低氣壓的影響，連居民除體認到地質的重要性，
日豪大雨，而雲林草嶺地質公園同時搭上國外推廣地質公園風
草嶺除了飛山及堰塞湖的獨位於高山地區，沒有山下的淹水潮，再加上此地地景多樣豐富，
特地形遺跡以外，還有豐富的地景象，但有被風雨吹倒的樹木及符合設置地質公園的基本條件，
景資源，如懸谷式瀑布、峽谷、石塊。就在我們採訪的前一天，因此居民團結向政府申請，成為
壺穴、多孔狀岩、鐘乳石……，社區居民自發性的組成「開路小台灣首座「公民提案，政府核
這是造山運動、沉積成岩、河流隊」，或駕駛除草機，或徒手搬准」的地質公園。
切蝕，以及山崩等地質運動作用除樹木落石，早在地方政府修復地質公園的四大核心價值：
地景保育、環境教育、地景旅遊
及社區參與。「社區參與是地質
公園非常重要的元素，」國立臺
灣師範大學地理學系教授王文誠
指出，國家公園同樣重視地景保
育、教育及深度旅遊，但地質公
園特別強調社區參與，「社區民
眾參與保育才會是成功的關鍵，
要不然很多保護區還是有山老鼠
的問題，除非這個社區的人起來
保護，才能把真正的保育概念落
實。」
草嶺的民眾主動參與保育草嶺
的特殊地質、地形景觀，且將環
境教育的根基深扎於子孫心底，
與地質公園共榮共生。
「峭壁雄風」看似一座山，其實是塊斷
裂的巨大岩石。
The Great Steep Wall may look like a hill,
but it is actually a huge fractured stone.

H ave you ever seen a moun-
tain fly? In the early hours of
September 21, 1999, when the huge
Jiji Earthquake caused roughly 3.5
kilometers of the south face of Mt.
Jueduo in Caoling, Yunlin County,
to break loose in a landslide, an
estimated 120 million cubic meters
of earth and rock “flew” for about
three seconds. The landslide formed
a dam across the Qingshui River,
creating a barrier lake that became
known as New Caoling Lake. The
Caoling landscape has continued
to transform in the years since the
quake, with one of those changes
being the draining of the lake when
the dam collapsed.
Caoling’s landscape features

extend beyond its flying mountain
and barrier lake to hanging valley
waterfalls, canyons, moulin potholes,
“beehive” cliff faces, and stalactites. 鄭朝正帶領我們攀爬45°斜角的「峭壁雄風」，觀察岩層斷裂的痕跡。
Jason Cheng leads us up the 45-degree slope of the Great Steep Wall to see fractures in
Formed through orogeny, sedimentary the rock.
processes, erosion, and landslides, the
area’s strange terrain is a microcosm
of Taiwan’s geological landscape. The Caoling Geopark has been a first “citizen-proposed, government-
To raise public awareness of the grassroots effort from the start. approved” geopark.
area, community residents pushed Caoling was a major scenic des Geoparks have four core values:
the government to establish the Cao tination in the 1980s, but in the landscape conservation, environ
ling Geopark, Taiwan’s first commu immediate aftermath of 1999’s Jiji mental education, geotourism, and
nitypromoted, governmentcreated Earthquake, tourism to the area de community participation. Wang
geopark, in 2004. clined sharply, and the local economy Wen cheng, a professor in the De
Community protected with it. Fortunately, the earthquake partment of Geography at National
When a tropical depression inun created “flying mountain” and bar Taiwan Normal University, says that
dated central and southern Taiwan rier lake attracted the attention of geoparks really stress local participa
with several days of heavy rains in geologists and the general public, tion. “Community participation and
late August 2018, Cao ling Geopark sparking a new wave of tourism. conservation are the keys to success.”
didn’t suffer as much flooding as With geoparks becoming some Caoling residents’ active partici
lower elevations, but the wind and thing of an international trend in pation in the conservation of Cao
rain did knock down trees and boul the early 2000s, and residents rec ling’s geology and topography, and
ders. The day before we arrived, a ognizing that their area’s diverse their education of their children and
team of community residents re landscape met the criteria for such grandchildren about the environ
opened the road themselves by clear a park, the community petitioned ment, have created a thriving symbi
ing the rocks and trees. the government to create Taiwan’s osis with the park.
21
瑰麗壯觀的萬年峽谷，岩層上清晰可見柔水雕刻出的線條。
The magnificent Wannian Canyon demonstrates how water cuts
through rock over time.

廖偉智指出921地震山
崩所開的新路，已被
溪水鑿蝕出壺穴。
Liao Weizhi points out
a new path opened
up by a landslide
resulting from 1999’s Jiji
Earthquake. The river
has already eroded new
moulin potholes in its
surface.
下圖由左至右為蜂巢
岩、鐘乳石、砂岩。
Below, from left to
right: beehive rock,
stalactites, and
sandstone.
居民帶路．深度旅遊
★造山與山崩：921地震紀念地
社區居民主要住在上坪、中坪
及下坪商圈，王文誠勘查後說：
「商圈是造山運動造成河階地抬
升的結果。從縮時攝影的角度來
看，河階上位區域一抬升，河流
In-depth tours with local guides
就改道了。」不僅是草嶺，整個曾有比日月潭大一倍的湖泊。 ★Orogeny and landslides:
台灣的地景地貌都是600萬年前其實，堀畓山崩塌不是第一 A Jiji Earthquake memorial
歐亞板塊與菲律賓海板塊聚合作次了，根據文獻記載，1999 年 Most community residents live
用的結果，推擠出草嶺層層且傾的草嶺潭已是第四代。廖偉智 in the Shang ping, Zhong ping and
斜角度不一的山岩。不到 60 歲就看過兩次草嶺走 Xia ping commercial districts, each
of which stands on an area of flat
到訪草嶺當天，為我們導覽山，但從沒想過要離開家園，
ground. “The three flat areas were
的草嶺社區發展協會總幹事廖他笑說：「反正它怎麼跑都那
formed when orogenic processes
偉智，正是號召社區一齊清理個方向，那是順向坡。」居民
lifted a fluvial terrace,” says Wang.
家園的人。他帶著我們遊賞草都知道堀畓山因為造山運動推 Taiwan’s landscapes were created
嶺，深入淺出的解說地質成因擠力道不均而傾斜，加上其岩 in a process that began roughly 6
和環境生態。層坡腳插入清水溪河道中，長 million years ago with the conver
從飛山景觀台出發，大地劇期下切，失去支撐，因此滑落 gence of the Eurasian Plate and the
方向始終如一。 Philippine Sea Plate. The resultant

烈變化之景令人嘆為觀止。當
squeezing of the Earth’s crust cre
時地震飛山的特殊地景「新草草嶺雖萬變，仍有規律可尋，
ated Cao ling’s irregularly folded
嶺潭」只維持了5年，2004年因此讓在地人與大地發展出獨
mountains.
七二水災因泥沙堆積，堰塞湖特的相處之道。以新草嶺潭時 We set out from the Flying Moun
潰堤重新成溪，現在眼前的清期為例，廖偉智和其他遊覽車 tain observation deck led by Liao
水溪細長蜿蜒，難以想像這裡司機紛紛到日月潭考取遊艇駕 Wei zhi, the directorgeneral of the
23
照，既能車載遊客上山，還能下中，感受身旁水氣的洗滌淨化，萬年峽谷果真名副其實，兩
水游潭；直到潭消失，又重新整拾級而上，形似青蛙的奇岩怪石岸岩壁層層疊疊，又因岩層蘊藏
頓家園，回到務農本業。就「坐臥」在蜂巢岩及鐘乳石洞的礦物成分不同而顯露白、灰、
★風化與侵蝕：水濂洞、青蛙穴上，孔洞等「傷疤」，都是沉黃、褐等色澤，瑰麗斑斕且壯
石與幽情谷積岩一生必會面臨的風化與侵蝕觀，除可在石縫間看見石灰華，
一路上，廖偉智不斷叮嚀與作用，所留下的痕跡。也有機會拾取貝類的生痕化石。
我們同行的草嶺村幹事陳瑩運：從高處眺望，上帝的造化盡收但由於2016年發生3起旅客落
「這個落石通報了嗎？」「那邊眼底，萬年沉積而成的岩層，層水溺斃事件，雲林縣政府公告關
地基有檢查了嗎？」去年返鄉的與層之間距離都接近神祕的黃閉萬年峽谷迄今，草嶺的居民無
陳瑩運，到外地工作幾年後，金比例；而幽情谷裡的壺穴脈不希望能盡力改善防護措施，早
因為一個信念：「自己的家鄉要脈相連，是滴水鑿石，毅力恆日重新開放，讓旅客都能到峽谷
靠自己，如果你真的熱愛這片土心的呈現。欣賞造化者的鬼斧神工。
地。」便回來參與地方事務，這 ★河階地與生物沉積作用：萬
整個草嶺，都是小學教室
天，除了陪同並為我們介紹現況年峽谷
外，也不時巡視檢查道路情形。前往萬年峽谷前，廖偉智和我草嶺生態地質國民小學（簡稱
在看過萬變山河之後，我們接們提及，當年和友人發現這條溪「草嶺國小」）是地質公園裡的
著來到新草嶺潭消失後重出水面流切蝕數百公尺的V字型峽谷，唯一小學，也是草嶺村唯一的學
的水濂洞。溪水在岩床上深深雕刻出一道道校。草嶺國小主任鄭朝正談起當
水濂洞是一懸谷式瀑布，岩銳利且清晰的線條，「看起來經初規劃「走讀草嶺」課程，因為
層被清水溪侵蝕出內凹的巨洞，歷過上千年、上萬年了，所以我草嶺村的孩子小學畢業就得離鄉
瀑布從上灌頂瀉下，旅客漫步洞把它取名『萬年峽谷』。」背井，到外地住宿唸書，師長們
希望「走讀草嶺讓孩子瞭解家鄉
的人文、產業、生態與地質，至
在溯溪前，草嶺國小學生須培訓水上自救及救生技能。少，他會認為草嶺是他的根的所
Students from Caoling Eco-Geo Elementary School must practice rescue skills before
they can begin river tracing. 在。」鄭朝正說。
走讀草嶺課近年來新增攀樹
與溯溪課程，但台灣到處都能
溯溪，在草嶺溯溪有什麼特別
的呢？
如王文誠所說：「草嶺有沉積
岩的所有特徵，包含陸地抬升跟
河流下切作用，是最佳的地質教
室。」鄭朝正則用生動活潑的方
式，帶著孩子近距離認識地質：
「岩石的層理就像千層蛋糕一層
一層往上疊，節理是岩石的破裂
段，就是切蛋糕的地方。」再進
一步教導孩子辨別砂岩和頁岩。
今年暑期，師長們帶著投影機
和布幕，就在青山坪的居民家中
上起夜間觀察課，「其實我們跟

Cao ling Community Development waterfall by the flowing waters of rious golden ratio. You can also see
Association. The landslide brought the Qingshui River. Visitors strolling the interlinked moulin potholes of
on by the 1999 quake created a barrier through the cave feel the purifying the Youqing Valley. The product of
lake called New Caoling Lake in the spray coming off the water pouring dripping water, they are a testament
Qingshui River, but flooding caused down from above. They then climb to the power of perseverance.
by Typhoon Mindulle reopened the a set of stairs to a frogshaped rock ★Fluvial terrace, biogenic deposits:
river channel just five years later. “reclining” atop Beehive Cliff and Wannian Canyon
Liao points out that the 1999 another stalactite filled cave. The Prior to heading to the Vshaped
landslide wasn’t Mt. Jueduo’s first. “beehive” holes are the result of ero Wan nian Canyon, Liao mentions
Historical documents show that the sion of the cliff’s sedimentary rock. having discovered it with a friend.
barrier lake that formed in 1999 was The clifftop offers panoramic “It looked like it had been around
the fourth in recorded history. The views of rock strata built by ages of for thousands and thousands of
forces pushing the mountain do so sedimentation, the distance between y e a r s , s o I n a m e d i t ‘ Wa n n i a n
unevenly, and periodically shove its the layers approaching the myste [10,000year] Canyon.’”
flank into the river’s channel. Over
long periods of time, the earth sup
porting that flank washes away, lead
ing to landslides. Though Caoling is
always changing, these changes have
a detectable rhythm that has enabled
residents to develop their own spe
cial relationship to the Earth.
★Erosion: Water Curtain Cave,
Frog Rock, Youqing Valley
Caoling Village secretary Chen
Ying yun is a young person who
moved back to the village last year.
Subscribing to the idea that “our
hometown depends on us,” he be
came active in local affairs soon
after. Today, he is both showing us
around and checking on the condi
tion of roads.
After enjoying the varied land
scapes for a time, we visit Water
Curtain Cave, which reemerged once
New Caoling Lake disappeared.
The large cave was eroded into
the cliff behind a hanging valley
草嶺國小學生在階梯上觀察砂岩節理與
石灰華。
Caoling Eco-Geo Elementary School
students study joints in these sandstone
and travertine steps.
25
社區結合不是很制式化的，很像
是去朋友家拜訪。」鄭朝正說不
只在學校和自然景點，就連社區
居民的家都能「徵用」作為教學
場域。
從走讀草嶺課可以看到，「地
質」一點也不生硬，它就是生
活，在這裡，土地跟人民的關係
非常密切。
重生．草嶺新景
著重觀光產業的草嶺，因應時
代，需要再提昇、再轉型。
王文誠一年多前投入規劃草嶺
地質公園，與社區居民討論選出
「草嶺新十景」，從飛山景觀台
為起點，逆時鐘的方向走遍地質
公園十大地景：飛山、水濂洞、
峭壁雄風、清溪小天地、蓬萊瀑
布、石壁仙谷、雲嶺之丘、同心
瀑布、萬年峽谷及草嶺貝化石
區，目標是由地質教室之旅，
進展到深度的生態旅遊。
學校在草嶺轉型中也扮演要
角，「第一是地質公園的資源
盤點，再來就是回歸人文，讓
地方的故事與內涵，更有脈絡
的去感動更多人。」草嶺國小
Created by the erosive force of the village to continue their educa
校長林丙茂說。鄭朝正和同仁
the flowing river, the canyon is even tions, Jason Cheng, CEES’ director of
也持續發揮教學專長，設計完
older than its name suggests. Miner general affairs, says that its curricu
善的生態體驗課程，提供給社 als color the layers of rock that make lum aims to help them understand
區作為規劃套裝旅遊的參考。 up the cliff faces on both sides of the their hometown’s culture, industry,
王文誠說：「上帝在不同時間 canyon in whites, grays, yellows, geology, and ecosystem. “At the least,
撒下不同的材料，也就形成不同 and browns. It is gorgeous, with it helps them understand that their
的層理。」上帝也在草嶺撒下不 travertine seaming the rock, and fos roots are in Caoling,” says Cheng.
silized shells waiting to be collected. The school has since added
同的材料，古老的地質、傳承不
An elementary school classroom treeclimbing and rivertracing
斷的在地人文，以及如陳瑩運這
Located within Caoling Geopark, classes to its curriculum. As Wang
樣的「社區新生代」居民，相信 Caoling EcoGeo Elementary School Wen cheng says, “Cao ling shows
不久的將來，會有更多的人來到 (CEES) is Cao ling Village’s only all the typical characteristics of
草嶺喝杯古坑咖啡、賞遊地景， school. Since all of its graduating sedimentary landforms, including
認識台灣最堅韌的人情風景。 l students have to move away from tectonic uplift and river incision,

在草嶺處處可見岩層沉積與大地造山的
奧妙。
Exposed sedimentary rock strata and
evidence of orogeny abound in the Caoling
area.
Water Curtain Cave, Great Steep

Wall, Qing shui River Paradise,
Penglai Waterfall, Shibi Valley, Yun
ling Hill, Tong xin Falls, Wan nian
Canyon, and an area with fossilized
shells. Their aim is to transform the
geoclassroom tour into a more in
depth ecotour.
The school has also played an im
portant role in Caoling’s transforma
tion. “The first step was to inventory
the geo park’s resources,” explains
CEES principal Lin Ping Mao. “The
second was to share our culture so
that our local stories and our local
character would have a context
in which to move other people.”
Meanwhile, Cheng and his col
leagues are continuing to build on
the school’s strengths, developing
a comprehensive ecoexperience
course to provide the community
with a reference it can use when
making it an outstanding geological shows that geology isn’t difficult planning package tours.
classroom.” Cheng takes an active and alien, but rather something im Wang says, “God casts down dif
approach to education, introducing mediate and present in their lives. ferent materials at different times,
the kids to geology up close. “The It teaches them that the land and its forming different layers.” God
layering in the rocks is like that of people are closely connected. spread a variety of materials at Cao
a layer cake, each stacked atop the A renaissance ling: ancient geology, local culture,
other. The joints, which are frac Caoling’s focus on tourism means and younger residents such as Chen
tures in the rocks, are like slices in that it has to continually upgrade Yingyun. Surely people will soon be
the cake.” The school also teaches its offerings. gin visiting Caoling in greater num
the children to identify sandstone To that end, Wang and commu bers to take in the scenery, sample
and shale. nity residents have recently devel the region’s famous Gukeng coffee,
The classes are conducted both oped a “Ten New Scenic Spots” and come to know some of Taiwan’s
in the school and in natural settings. walking tour that sets out from the most resilient people. l
Local homes are sometimes drafted Flying Mountain observation plat (Camille Kuo/photos by Chuang
into use as well. The curriculum form and visits Flying Mountain, Kung-ju/tr. by Scott Williams)
27
封面故事　
COVER STORY
惡地
結好果
利吉泥岩惡地
Good Fruit from Bad Land

—The Liji Badlands
文•曾蘭淑　圖•林格立　版面設計•蕭郢岑

29
台灣最大的河谷花東縱谷，
綠意盎然，物產豐饒。走訪
花東縱谷來一趟地質之旅，
不僅可以踏查兩大板塊交界
處，也了解台灣地質身世；觀
察池上斷層與利吉泥岩惡地，
更加領悟大自然造天闢地的手
法奧妙，再品嚐惡地出產的芭
樂與釋迦，地盡其利，惡地結
好果。正如法國地質學家J e a n
Aubouin所說：「台灣的地質是
寶石等級。」
從花蓮玉里車站出發，騎腳踏
玉富自行車道的秀姑巒溪鐵道橋上，可以完成一腳踏在菲律賓海板塊、
車上玉富自行車道，標註2.4K的一腳踩在歐亞板塊的「壯舉」。
Visitors to the old Xiuguluan River Railway Bridge, which is now part of the Yufu Bike Path, can
秀姑巒溪鐵道橋，是此次地質見 bestride the intersection of the Philippine Sea Plate and the Eurasian Plate like a colossus.
學之旅的第一站。
可能受到熱帶性低氣壓逼近
的影響，站在鐵橋上，橋下是寬站之間，採截彎取直路線興建了坡國小的擋土牆斷層，是少數可
闊悠長的秀姑巒溪，強風吹來還新的鐵道。在地表觀察到快速潛移的斷層，
夾帶著水氣，眼見左邊的中央山經由東華大學自然資源與環境也導致擋土牆鋪了，沒有多久就
脈烏雲密布，右邊的海岸山脈學系教授劉瑩三解說，更加了解損壞的命運。
卻是晴空萬里，就在這詭譎氣氛花東縱谷位處「地理縫合」之處
重要地質證據：利吉惡地
中，有如電影《勇闖陰陽界》的的獨特。這是由於1,000萬年前
場景。配合觀光局花東縱谷國家至600萬年前，菲律賓海板塊的另外一處提供了台灣位於板
風景區管理處（以下簡稱「縱管西北角礁碰到歐亞板塊，花東縱塊交界地帶的重要證據，是500
處」）在斷層帶休憩解說平台所谷東側，也就是海岸山脈西側，萬年前板塊隱沒與碰撞作用所留
框的兩個腳印，完成一腳踏在菲正是菲律賓海板塊與歐亞板塊運下的利吉惡地，地質學術上稱為
律賓海板塊、一腳踩在歐亞板塊動縫合交接之處。「利吉混同層」。而且與全世界
的「壯舉」，打卡拍照完，頗有最明顯就是玉富自行車道，每相比，能在陸地上就能親近觀察
橫貫古今時空、穿越海陸地理交年還以1至3公分的速度抬升，因這麼「年輕的地質證據」，是利
界的快感。此玉富自行車道至今仍會經常性吉惡地在地質研究的重要之處。
龜裂，劉瑩三說，這不是因為廠「年輕」，是因為地質學的單
台灣地質身世：板塊交界
商偷工減料導致施工品質差，而位是以百萬年計，誤差值也在百
這座鐵橋是昔日的單軌舊鐵是位於斷層帶，承受了怎麼鋪、萬年之間，劉瑩三解釋，以地球
道，也是全世界除了冰島外，少怎麼裂的宿命。具有45億5,000萬年歷史而言，
數橋面跨越海陸兩大板塊的橋花東縱谷涵蓋了北從瑞穗、玉利吉層在地質時間的軸距上，可
梁。由於地處斷層帶，長年來幾里、池上等多處斷層。想要更了以說是很年輕的地質。
經地殼擠壓運動，造成第17至19 解斷層帶，還可以造訪池上的地隨著地質公園的推廣，農委
號橋墩下陷，維修困難，台灣鐵牛館與大坡國小，經工研院專家會林務局、縱管處等單位自2010
路管理局1989年從玉里至東里車進駐，運用科學的量測，證明大年開始進行相關資源與地景的調

T aiwan’s verdant East Rift Val-
ley, the island’s largest valley,
is a geological wonder that pro-
while to our right, the skies over the
Coastal Mountain Range are clear for
as far as the eye can see. Traveling
side of the Coastal Mountain Range)
is the geological suture resulting from
the movements of these two plates.
vides views of the collision of two through weather that feels like some The Yufu Bike Path offers one of
tectonic plates, and a perspective thing out of the movie Flatliners, we the most visible signs of the forces at
on Taiwan’s geological history. Its reach an interpretive sign placed by work. Rising by one to three centime
Chishang Fault and Liji Badlands the Tourism Bureau’s East Rift Valley ters every year, the path frequently
reveal some of the mysterious ways National Scenic Area Administration buckles. Liou says this isn’t a case
in which natural forces shape the (ERVNSAA). The impressions of two of shoddy work by a contractor, but
world, and its badlands guavas, footprints mark the ground in front of rather the result of its location atop a
sugar apples and atemoyas demon- it, one on either side of the intersection spreading, splitting fault line.
strate that bad land put to proper of two tectonic plates. Taking pictures There are many faults in the East
use can produce excellent fruit. The of ourselves with one foot on the Phil Rift Valley, including the Ruisui, Yuli
valley is a good example of why ippine Sea Plate and the other on the and Chi shang faults. A visit to the
French geologist Jean Aubouin Eurasian Plate, we feel as if we are Chishang Story House and Tapo El
calls Taiwan a geological gem. bestriding geological time and space. ementary School will help you better
Colliding plates understand the fault zone. Experts
Setting out from Yuli Station in Liou Yingsan, a professor in the from the Industrial Technology Re
Hua lien, we cycle down the Yufu Natural Resources and Environmental search Institute have confirmed that
Bike Path towards the first stop on Studies Department at National Dong the split in a retaining wall at the
our geological journey: the old Xiu Hwa University, helps us understand school has been caused by the Chi
guluan River Railway Bridge. the East Rift Valley’s “geological su shang Fault, which is itself noteworthy
As we stand on the bridge, a ture.” Some six to ten million years for being one of the few faults to show
nearby tropical depression whips wet ago, the northwest corner of the Phil signs of rapid movement at the surface.
winds back and forth over the wide ippine Sea Plate encountered the Eur The fault’s movement is the reason
river below. To our left, heavy clouds asian Plate. Running along the eastern
blanket the Central Mountain Range, side of the East Rift Valley (the western
大坡國小「翹起來」的滑梯，是池上斷層的地標，
在國際地質研究上享有知名度。
This pair of slides at Tapo Elementary School
that has been lifted up by the Chishang
Fault is a landmark well known to
international geologists.
31
從富源村的產業道路，可以站上惡地的制高點，
俯瞰整個惡地景觀。
Travelers can climb Fuyuan Village’s industrial
road to a high point that overlooks large swaths of
badlands scenery.

查，並且結合社區的參與，設立成新的雨蝕溝；一條條深邃的雨
解說牌，讓遊客一目了然，能夠蝕溝都是風雨沖蝕的傑作。
感受利吉惡地知性與感性的美。 ★富源景觀平台：遠眺
縱管處處長林維玲指出，接著由台東197縣道上去，可
花東縱谷平原因為地處海陸板遠眺台東平原，天氣好的時候還
塊交會處，人文薈萃，物產豐可以看見太平洋上的綠島、蘭嶼
饒，縱管處規劃「池早遇見與卑南溪，將太平洋盡收眼底。
你，發現池上斷層」、「台東
『喔吉上』」等一至三天十多
東華大學教授劉瑩三剝開利吉泥岩惡地
種不同的遊程，民眾可以選擇
岩層中亮亮的磷片剖面，說明這就是板
稻穗秋收或是前進原民部落等塊滑動造成的證據。
National Dong Hwa University professor
方式，進行一場深度之旅。 Liou Ying-san points to flakes of bright
phosphorous within a piece of mudstone
其中「惡地惡勢力：探索惡地 as evidence that Liji
was formed by
奇景」則是以利吉、富源村為核 the action of
心的地景旅遊。 tectonic
plates.
★卑南溪畔：遠眺
從台9乙線進入利吉社區與利
吉大橋之前，在堤防旁往北側觀
看，或是站在卑南水圳公園，可
以遠眺荒涼嶙峋的惡地景觀。
在此處還可以看到卑南大溪河
why whenever the wall is repaired,
床中，原來作為流籠的石頭，稱 ★私房秘境：俯瞰
before long it splits apart again.
為「外來岩塊」，這些岩塊原來沿著狹窄曲折的產業道路，可
Liji Badlands: Important evidence
是被泥岩包覆，受到大水侵蝕露以站上惡地的制高點，整個深溝 The Liji Badlands, known to geolo
出，所留下一個個孤立的山峰，壑谷就在腳下，這裡正是鳳頭蒼 gists as the “Liji (or Lichi) mélange,”
如此也證明泥岩內不同的岩層，鷹、野兔、穿山甲的家，凌晨還 provide another important piece
有的是海洋板塊與南中國海板塊可見長鬃山羊在稜脊線上凌波微 of evidence that Taiwan sits at the
的輝長岩、蛇岩；有的是大陸板步。當地居民林龍清因此整理出 convergent boundary between two
tectonic plates: the badlands are the
塊的沙岩、泥岩、沙頁岩。一條生態步道，但這個屬於秘境
visible remnants of a plate subduction
再從卑南溪往西側看，可以看等級的步道，需要當地社區達人
that began 5 million years ago. In fact,
到小黃山，這是數十萬年前才形帶路，否則很難找到。 Liji’s importance to the field of geo
成，受到風化與河流侵蝕作用形 ★Shopping行程：採果 logy stems from the fact that it allows
成的「礫岩惡地」。有些遊客對秘境沒有興趣，只 geologists to see “recent geological
★利吉惡地觀景台：近距離想吃水果，可選擇由社區導覽人 evidence” on the Earth’s surface.
接觸員依時令安排採水果的shopping Liou explains that this evidence is
considered “recent” only in the context
過了利吉大橋，就可以到縱管行程。
of our 4.55billionyearold Earth and
處規劃的利吉惡地觀景台，沿著
命名惡地，聳擱有力 in terms of geological time, wherein
木棧道往上走，即可近距離觀察
processes take epochs to unfold and
惡地的雨蝕溝、雨蝕谷。利吉社社區的達人之一，即是前利吉
are dated with error bars millions of
區生態導覽員曾怡潔介紹，若剛村長曾金仁，30年前他協助卑南 years wide. Such timescales mean that
下過大雨，發生小型崩塌，會形鄉公所進行農作物調查時，即走 the Liji mélange is considered “young.”
33
遍村落的每個角落；「惡地」名第一個跳出來反對的，就是當初
稱的流傳，他是始作俑者。最不贊成惡地名稱的人，原因
「我們當地人稱這座險峻、是「惡地」逐漸成為利吉村的
無人接近，也無法種植的不毛之註冊商標，甚至為農產品打響
地為摩天嶺。但為命名開會時，了名號。
地質調查所的徐鐵良建議叫做
惡地結佳果
『利吉混同層』，但感覺好像很
複雜，很學術；我就提議乾脆叫曾金仁說，惡地是不毛之地，
『利吉惡地』，聳擱有力！我還只要颱風、豪雨一來，土壤就流
記得很清楚，沒有人說好，也沒失，以前有人在緩坡處開墾，縱
有人反對，就這麼定下來。」使不斷施肥，也沒有用。
曾金仁的台語名字是「真驚「但一介農夫怎麼會懂這土壤
人」，沒有想到惡地名稱也因此的好處，只知道土很黏，沒有下
一鳴驚人。他自曝產銷班的秘辛雨時土很硬，農作物很難種。然
惡地芭樂肉質細膩、清甜。
說：「本來我們有農民掛燕巢芭而種甘蔗，搾糖率特別高，做成 Badlands guavas are succulent and sweet.
樂的招牌賣，我一開始遊說大家的黑糖又特別香。經過研究單位
改成惡地芭樂，還有人心不甘情分析土壤才知道，惡地土壤鎂、
不願，沒有想到改名之後愈來愈鐵等礦物質的含量特別高，是種水果，再請來農政單位幫忙上
暢銷，分明是對自己的產品沒有出的農作物有特殊風味的原因之課，找出適合種的作物，例如
信心。」一。」芭樂、大旺釋迦、芒果與柑橘。
叫「惡地」也曾引起不少民眾原來在惡地開墾，就是要從三陽工業退休回鄉的蔡鴻
反對認為不吉利，十多年前還有「適地適種」，順應惡地的謨，選擇友善環境的農法，不用
協會舉辦惡地改名票選活動，但泥岩地形，選擇適合栽種的除草劑、施用有機肥，他所種植
的芭樂特別脆口，肉質細膩、清
甜，單單賣給以前的同事即供不
應求。
曾金仁帶領我們前往拜訪富源
景觀平台旁種植牛奶果、黃金果
的農夫柯炳煌。曾金仁說富源村
是大哥，利吉村是「二弟」，說
著自己就笑起來，原來是二弟與
惡地同音。
柯炳煌標榜種的是「惡地牛奶
果」，水果盒上寫著「富源惡地
產奶果，地質缺水巧天賜」，並
且打出「紫鑽牛奶果」的招牌。
利吉村前村長曾金仁認為，利吉村的亮
點就是惡地。
Former Liji Village chief Zeng Jinren
believes that the badlands are one of the
village’s best points.

days, the view extends across the
expanse of the Pacific Ocean to Green
Island and Orchid Island.
★Insider tip: A view from above
Ta k i n g t h e n a r ro w, w i n d i n g
industrial road into the badlands,
you reach a high point overlook
ing a deep gorge. The area is home
to crested goshawks, hares, and
pangolins, and early morning visi
tors might even catch a glimpse of
Taiwan serows sashaying across a
ridge. Local resident Lin Longqing
has built an ecotrail here, but it is
secluded and difficult to find with
out the help of someone from the
community.
Naming the badlands
（上、中圖）惡地牛奶果是越南 Former Liji Village chief Zeng Jin
新住民最愛的水果。
(above and inset) Badlands star
ren is a local intimately acquainted
apples are a favorite of immigrants with the local terrain. In fact, he
from Vietnam.
explored every corner of the area 30
（下圖）惡地釋迦是大旺品種，
years ago while helping the Beinan
最大的每顆一斤多，肉質結實。 Township Office conduct an agricul
(below right) Firm-fleshed badlands
sugar apples can weigh more than 600 tural survey. He was also the first to
grams each. promote the name “badlands.”
ERVNSAA director Lin Weiling Looking west from the Bei nan
says that the administration offers River, you can see Little Huangshan,
visitors one to threeday suggested a badlands conglomerate formed
travel itineraries for the valley floor hundreds of thousands years ago
that include the plate convergence and eroded into its present shape by
zone as well as the valley’s people the wind and the flowing waters of
and rich produce. If travelers choose, the river.
they can explore the area in greater ★Liji Badlands observation deck:
depth by attending the fall rice har Close contact
vest or visiting an Aboriginal village. Once you’ve crossed Liji Bridge,
The “badlands scenery” itinerary take the boardwalk leading from the
focuses on the landscapes around Liji Liji Badlands observation deck for a
and Fuyuan Villages. closer look at badlands gullies and
★Beinan River: Distant views gorges formed by rain erosion.
If you look north from Provincial ★Fuyuan observation deck:
Highway 9B before crossing Liji Distant views
Bridge, or from Beinan Township’s If you take County Highway 197
Riverside Park, you can see the rug into the mountains, you’ll see the Tai
ged badlands in the distance. tung Plain in the distance. On clear
35
“The land is rugged, uninhabited,
and no good for farming. We used
to call it the ‘skyscraper mountains,’
but when we held a meeting to give
it a formal name, Xu Tie liang from
the geological survey suggested ‘Liji
Mélange.’ I thought that sounded too
academic, so I suggested ‘Liji Bad
lands,’ which sounded more dramatic
and powerful.”
Zeng, whose Taiwanese nickname
is “Really Startling” (a play on the pro
nunciation of his name), never imag
ined that the badlands name would
cause a ruckus. He explains that the
marketing group wasn’t thrilled with
利吉村卑南鄉蔬果第40產銷班，種植多種果樹，是「惡地」水果產銷班。
Liji Village’s fruit production and marketing team grows a variety of badlands fruits.
the change. “We had farmers who
sold their guava under the Yanchao
曾金仁笑他是「只賺：只會賺錢」發展的目標，尤其是利吉村與
的牛奶果。其他偏鄉一樣，都面臨人口老
柯炳煌笑談自己的牛奶果，化、流失，年輕人只好到外地
雖然前年「大風收」，即被尼伯工作的命運，如果能夠復興社
特颱風全部收走，但今年銷路很區的產業，顧好每個人的肚
好，主要是全台有30萬的東南亞腹，推動地質公園的地景旅
新住民支撐他的市場。他說，越遊、地景保育是三贏之舉。
南新住民看到牛奶果猶如看到家經過社區協會的努力，先是
鄉的老朋友一樣，有人一次採買吸引退休的管區警察與居民回
30斤，透過直播銷售，變成經銷鄉耕種，農忙時請附近原住民
的中盤賺大錢。來幫忙，當惡地的水果銷路愈來
曾金仁接著嚴肅起來：「自愈好，更多原本只是打工的原住
從打出惡地名號之後，銷售從民加入種植的行列，復耕原本休
來沒有遇到瓶頸。」就在我還耕、廢耕的水田。
未意會過來時，他接著說：「我曾金仁說，最明顯的例子就
們惡地水果一銷到各中盤商與行是過去利吉村的人要到外面打
口，小販都以選購我們的水果優工，現在農忙時還要到別村找
先，加上我們產量不多，市場接人來幫忙。
受度高，因此銷售從來都不是問透過地質公園的網絡與合作，
題。」帶動地方的產業，以在惡地作
隨著2010年林務局將利吉「好人」、惡地結佳果為傲，利
惡地選為社區參與推動地質公吉與富源的惡地農耕與生態旅
園的示範區，曾金仁說，我們遊，也訴說著在地居民與大地和
很認同地質公園結合地方產業平共存的答案。 l

brand. Some were unhappy when I it has a high sweetness index and guava with flesh so crisp and delicious
began pushing the idea of rebranding makes very flavorful raw sugar. that he can’t even keep up with the
our produce as ‘Badlands Guava.’ It When researchers analyzed the soil, demand from his former coworkers.
surprised everyone when the name they discovered why: the badlands Zeng says that when the Forestry
change led to better and better sales.” soil is rich in minerals, such as mag Bureau decided in 2010 to create the
Good fruit from bad land nesium and iron, that give the crops Lichi Badlands Geopark and involve
Zeng says that the badlands are a grown in it a unique flavor.” the community in promoting it, the
barren land that suffers landslides af But you have to adapt the crops to community supported the idea of
ter every heavy rainfall and typhoon. the badlands. Farming its mudstone using the park to promote the devel
People had tried to cultivate the gen soil means choosing appropriate opment of local businesses. Young
tler slopes, but couldn’t grow any fruits, which turned out to be guava, people in Liji and other remote vil
thing even with constant applications sugar apples, atemoya, mango, and lages had little choice but to look
of fertilizer. citrus, and then asking the Council of outside their economically challenged
“Simple farmers like us couldn’t Agriculture to provide helpful classes. communities for work, resulting in
grasp the virtues of this soil. All we Cai Hongmo returned to his village outward migration and aging pop
knew was that the soil was hard to and decided to take up environmen ulations. If the park could revive
farm, sticky when damp and hard tally friendly farming after retiring businesses and stimulate the creation
when dry. But sugarcane grown in from Sanyang Motors. He now grows of local jobs, its promotion of tourism
and landscape conservation would be
a win for everyone.
社區產業與地質保育共存，居民領悟利吉不是惡地，而是寶地。 The community association
Cooperation between local businesses and geological conservationists has
helped area residents realize that their badlands are a treasure. worked hard to entice retired police
officers and other former residents to
come back and farm, and encouraged
farmers to turn to Taiwanese Aborigi
nes in nearby villages for help during
busy periods. When sales of badlands
fruits picked up, Aborigines who had
been working only part time started
their own farms, replanting fallow
and abandoned paddies.
Zeng says that where Liji’s farm
ers used to have to look elsewhere
for parttime work, they now scour
surrounding villages for help during
the agricultural high season.
Locals are proud of their work
with the geopark to promote the de
velopment of the local economy, and
to produce good people and good
fruit from the badlands. The success
of Liji’s agriculture and Fu yuan’s
ecotours proves that residents can
peacefully coexist with the Earth. l
(Esther Tseng/photos by Jimmy Lin/
tr. by Scott Williams)
37
封面故事　
COVER STORY
東北角
最美校園
鼻頭龍洞環境教育
Environmental Education
at Bitou Elementary
—The Northeast Coast’s Most Scenic School
文•陳亮君　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•蕭郢岑

39
「從二樓每一間教室，孩子每間教室都有著不同的布置元素，頗富巧思。
Each classroom is ingeniously decorated with unique elements.
們看到的海景，每天都不一樣，
每一天的雲，每一天的陽光，都
有不同的變化。」站在校長室的一樓往二樓的廊道，有在地特色的地質彩繪與學生的海洋創作。
The stairway leading from the school’s first to second floor is decorated with
大窗戶旁，鼻頭國小校長陳玉芳 murals that depict local scenery and seascapes, along with students’ artworks
and handicrafts.
介紹起校園周遭的景物。從左方
沿著鼻頭步道下去的海蝕平台，
到右方遠處的龍洞攀岩場及龍洞沿途風平浪靜，就在往鼻頭國
特色校園大改造
灣，甚至更遠方的三貂角燈塔，小的半山腰上，倏然狂風大作，
本次東北角專訪就在如此壯闊的「3年前的8月我剛上任沒多久在車嚴重搖晃下只好步行上去，
海景中展開。就遇到蘇迪勒颱風，印象超深刻步行又不行只好用爬的，並在算
……」鼻頭國小校長陳玉芳剛到職準陣風較小的幾秒間，衝出握住
鼻頭角在東海與太平洋的交界沒多久，校舍的屋頂就因為颱風而學校大門，「喔！有遊客ㄟ，颱
處，而鼻頭國小就位在鼻頭角的被吹掀了，窗戶破損加上原本就已風天來走步道，頭殼壞去，不過
半山腰上，是台灣面向太平洋的年久失修的校園，經過颱風的蹂那看起來很面熟，該不會是新來
第一所小學。全校28名學生（含躪，呈現出滿目瘡痍的慘況。的校長……」警衛事後述說當時
幼兒園12人），是名副其實的小颱風警報剛解除，陳玉芳試圖看到這位拼命三郎校長的情景。
學校，不過卻也有著得天獨厚的請值班的警衛回傳風災狀況，最後在有驚無險下，第一時間了
地理條件。看鼻頭國小校長陳玉「不行啊！校長，走廊也很危險，解學校的災情，「在這體會到自
芳在短短3年內，如何帶領師生現在外面風很大沒辦法看，只知道然的力量，所以我們更應懂得尊
跟大海學習，打造出教學、地有什麼東西破掉了。」警衛回報。敬老天爺。」陳玉芳說。
景、社區相互依存與融合的教學陳玉芳想說奇怪，颱風不是已走現今的校園，校門口有象徵
場域。了，於是就驅車前往學校勘查。鼻頭燈塔的雙塔設計，燈塔的下

鼻頭國小校長陳玉芳。
Chen Yu Fang, principal of Bitou
Elementary School.
遠眺龍洞灣與三貂角的無敵海景。
The incomparable seascapes of Longdong
Bay and Sandiao Cape.
O ur visit to Taiwan’s North-

east Coast begins with an
interview amid majestic scenery.
Bitou Cape marks the boundary
between the East China Sea and the
Pacific Ocean. Bi tou Elementary
years ago that Soudelor struck,”
Chen says. “I’ll never forget it.”
Today two towers flank the school
Standing next to the large window School sits midway up the mountain entrance, representing the Bi tou
of her second-floor office, Chen ous landscape. It is Taiwan’s northern Cape Lighthouse. Shells collected by
Yu Fang, principal of Bi tou Ele- most elementary school that faces teachers and students during beach
mentary School, introduces the the Pacific. With only 28 students cleanups decorate the bases of the
surrounding landscape. To the left, (including 12 kindergarten students), towers. Inside the schoolyard paint
wave-cut rock platforms slope to- Bitou Elementary is tiny by any stan ings inspired by Mermaid Melody, a
ward the sea below the Bitou Cape dard, but it sits amid stunning natural Japanese cartoon, adorn a reviewing
Trail. To the right, the Long dong surroundings. stand overlooking the school’s run
rock-climbing site and Longdong A school transformed ning track, and images of the light
Bay can be seen in the distance, as Shortly after Chen took over as house and of dolphinfish chasing
well as the San diao Cape Light- principal of Bi tou Elementary, Ty flying fish adorn the surrounding
house even farther afield. “From phoon Soudelor ripped the roof off of walls. There are also paintings repre
the second-floor classrooms the the school and damaged the windows. senting the flora of Bitou Cape across
students are treated to seascapes The school had already been in a state the four seasons, and the timetables
that change by the day due to the of disrepair, and after the destruction on the walls outside the classrooms
endless variations of the sunlight caused by the typhoon it was in a di are framed with creatures such as
and the clouds,” Chen says. sastrous state. “It was in August three crested serpent eagles, scaly rock
41
有幾筆捐款是在祈福後，有遊客
到此走步道時，對學校有好的印
象，進而願意捐款給校方。
得天獨厚教學資源
鼻頭國小的海洋體驗課程，上
學期會安排在9∼10月，趁東北
季風還沒來的時候；下學期則會
安排在5∼6月天氣變熱且海水不
會太冷時，從事輕艇、浮潛等活
動。因為學校下方就是著名的海
蝕平台，戶外課就會帶學生去做
海蝕地景與生物的探訪。採訪當
天，正值鼻頭國小與中華天使兒
童村合作，招待來自全國的偏鄉
弱勢學生，來體驗東北角特殊的
海蝕平台地形。
當學生跨出了這一步，離海洋教育就又更近了些。這次負責講解的老師，是永
In a few short steps, students can reach their maritime classroom.
和國小的退休教師吳海獅，「看
我手指的方向，有一堆亂石頭堆
在那裡，這是怎麼掉下來的？」
在同學們七嘴八舌的回答中，
方，用師生淨灘時撿回的貝殼就參加了一連串的比賽，透過比老師在旁適時的引導，「原來是
作裝飾。校園內有珍珠美人魚賽的獎金來爭取經費，改造我們因為長期海浪侵蝕，上面岩石太
司令台、鼻頭燈塔與鬼頭刀追的校園學習環境。」陳玉芳說起重了，所以掉了下來。」「剛有
逐飛魚的彩繪，以及在鼻頭四這3年來一點一滴地湊足經費來一個小朋友問我說，那個岩壁怎
季常見的植物圖像，各年級也改造校園的過程。麼會有水流出來，有的地方就沒
有大冠鷲、白底蟹、小海豚等說起來輕鬆，但這一路走來著有，看誰能解答？」
代表當地生物的班級牌，連上實不易，鼻頭國小在陳玉芳的帶吳海獅一邊講解砂岩與頁岩
下課的鐘聲也是船笛聲與大冠領下，榮獲教育部106 學年度偏遠的特徵，一邊拿實際兩種不同的
鷲的叫聲。學校特色遊學績優學校、教育部石頭給同學們實驗，「這砂岩因
沿著環型地質走廊拾階而上， 106學年度校園美感與環境再造績顆粒較粗，放進水裡會冒泡泡，
「這邊是漁村，有咕咾石，這邊優學校，以及教育部國教署2018 頁岩就不會。」原來，砂岩裡
是龍洞、攀岩場跟三貂角，我們年戶外教育飛揚100「銀牌獎」，面有孔隙，會透水，頁岩比較不
還配合四季星空，還有星光，這「不管是新北市還是全國教育部透水，所以當上面的雨水透過砂
是金花石蒜……」陳玉芳邊解說舉辦的比賽，只要得到比較好的岩，一直往下流，流到沙、頁岩
邊帶我們走進教室，一進教室更名次，就有經費修繕教學環境與交界的地方，流不下去，就從外
是讓人驚嘆，有天文宇宙風、森做校園美感環境改造。」陳玉芳面流了出來。
林風、地中海風等情境布置，圖提及，校內有一座百獸圖騰石接下來，吳海獅帶領學生前
書館更是仿船艙造型，還可通往柱，不論颱風還是資金短絀時，往潮間帶觀察生物，「這裡是
觀星台等設施。「風災過後我們她都會來這祈福，說也神奇，就鼻頭角有名的海蝕平台潮間

crabs and dolphins. A ship’s whistle forests, the Mediterranean. The li Ministry of Education’s K12 Educa
and an eagle’s cry are used in place brary mimics the cabin of a ship and tion Administration for its outdoor
of a school bell, signaling the begin leads to a platform for viewing the learning environment. “Whether in
ning and end of classes. night sky. contests held by New Taipei City or
The stairway from the first to the Over the last three years the the Ministry of Education, we just
second floor of the school is dec school has been raising funds for ren want to perform well in order to se
orated with wall paintings of the ovations. “After the typhoon we en cure funding to improve the school
nearby scenery. “That one is the fish tered all sorts of competitions to raise and its environs,” Chen says.
ing village, with its houses of coral money to transform the school.” A unique learning environment
stone,” Chen explains. “Over here are Chen makes it sounds easy, but Bitou Elementary offers ocean
Longdong, the rockclimbing site and it has been a long road. Under her based outdoor learning during
Sandiao Cape. These show the night direction Bitou Elementary won two autumn and spring—at the start of
sky at different times of the year, and awards in the Ministry of Education’s the school year in September and
the brilliance of the stars. And here 2017 annual school commendations, October, before the monsoon winds
are golden spider lilies....” one for its unique learning environ arrive; and in May and June when
Chen’s tour continues with a look ment and curriculum for hosting the days become hotter and the sea
at the classrooms, which are marvel study camps, and another for its cam water is not too cold. At these times,
ous to behold. They are decorated pus aesthetics and renovations. It also the school arranges for students go
with different themes—astronomy, won a silver medal in 2018 from the kayak ing and snorkeling. Students
also visit the famous sea erosion plat
form on the coast below the school.
生命教育就在師生一問一答中自然地體驗與學習。
There they study the landscape and
Through questions and answers students gain first-hand knowledge of the natural world. its ecology. On the day of our visit,
43
來自全國的偏鄉弱勢學生，來體驗東北角特殊的海蝕平台地形。
Disadvantaged children from remote rural areas experience the unique terrain
of a sea erosion platform on the Northeast Coast.

45
中高年級的學生學習浮潛、輕艇與
獨木舟。（鼻頭國小提供）
(far right) After their first two years,
elementary school students learn
snorkeling, kayaking and canoeing.
(courtesy of Bitou Elementary)
鼻頭當地的海產店是學校在社區的
海洋教室，透過當季漁獲的種類、
特性，來了解東北角這片海域。
（鼻頭國小提供）
(right) Local seafood restaurants
act as community classrooms for
understanding marine life. Students
learn about the aquatic life in the waters
around Bitou Cape by studying the fish
of different seasons and their various
traits. (courtesy of Bitou Elementary)
帶，第一個要看到螃蟹，第二源，以海洋生態為主軸，在暑假木舟，地點就在鼻頭漁港裡的軟

個要看到魚，第三個你們自己期間讓這些來自全國各地的小朋絲公園，或是鄰近的龍洞灣海洋
找。」「有螃蟹！」小朋友興友能認識海洋，也邀請了海洋大公園。至於孩子的反應如何，就
奮地叫著，「牠的學名叫作瘤學博幼社的大哥哥大姊姊來照顧如同這次參加潮間帶課程的鼻頭
突斜紋方蟹，在地的人稱為他們。」協會志工海星國小退休國小四年級學生周靖堯所說：
『白底仔』，因為牠的腹部是校長徐月梅則說：「台灣有名的「最喜歡下去潮間帶開始看魚、
白色的。」吳海獅藉由生動的就是海岸，環境要怎麼愛護，他觀察螃蟹的時候，因為可以更接
教學方式，讓學生分辨潮間帶有經歷過就知道。今天帶小朋友近海。」
裡的生物，「這眼珠子如果是來，他下一次就會帶爸爸媽媽一
東北角環境教育
透明的，表示牠是脫皮，如果起來。」
牠是活體死掉的，這個眼珠會除了生動的海蝕地形課程，海，是東北角民眾的共同回
黑黑的。」鄰近的鼻頭漁港，也是鼻頭國小憶。東北角暨宜蘭海岸國家風
而要學生找的第三種生物，其學生學習海洋知識的寶庫，從當景區管理處處長陳美秀說：
實就是生長在潮間帶的「顆粒玉地的漁民、耆老身上，學習到漁「在東北角這邊，有一群人讓
黍螺」，「你不要去拿牠，牠只船的種類、潮汐的變化，而當我很感動，有潛水教練，有開
有晚上才會活動吃東西，如果你地的海產店則是學校在社區的海民宿的，也有的是志工，為了
把牠扯下來，找不到地方棲息的洋教室，透過當季漁獲的種類、這塊土地，假日會帶著一群潛
話，就會影響牠的壽命。」生命特性，來了解東北角這片海域。水客，一起到海邊、溪口淨
教育就在師生一問一答中自然地「我們學校很特別，除了陸上運灘，還會潛到海裡幫忙撿海洋
體驗與學習。動會之外，還有海上運動會。」垃圾。」而這些垃圾很多是跟
舉辦這次活動的中華天使兒陳玉芳解釋從一二年級開始就讓著颱風，隨著洋流，飄洋過海
童村協會理事長沈桂美說：「此學生練習穿救生衣比賽，中高年來到台灣海岸，「海洋垃圾」
次結合鼻頭國小豐富的自然資級的學生則學習浮潛、輕艇與獨已經成為全球性的課題。

“First you have to find a crab, and them from the rocks and deprive
then spot a fish,” he tells them. “And them of their perch, they will die.”
then you can search for a new crea Through these questions and an
ture on your own.” swers the students are able to learn
As soon as one is found, a student first hand about the natural world.
yells “Crab!” “This is a scaly rock Aside from the erosion platform,
crab [Plagusia squamosa],” says Wu, students find a treasury of rich course
“but people around here call it the material about the sea at Bitou Fishing
whitebellied crab because of the Harbor. The children learn about the
white coloring on its underside.” Wu varieties of fishing boats and the tides
uses the intertidal zone as a living from local fishermen and elderly res
classroom to teach the children to idents. Even the local seafood restau
identify the varied lifeforms. rants provide living classrooms for
The third organism that the chil the students, where they learn about
dren find is identified by Wu as the Bi tou Cape’s marine environment
pyramid periwinkle (Nodilittorina py- through the variations in the content
ramidalis), a species of sea snail that of the local catch in different seasons.
lives in the intertidal zone. “Don’t “Our school is quite unique in that
disturb them though,” he tells them. we have sports events both on land
“They are active only in the evening and at sea.” Chen Yu Fang explains
Bitou Elementary and the Village of when they feed, and if you detach that from their first or second year,
Angelic Children have arranged for
a visit to the erosion platform for dis
advantaged children from rural areas. 讓孩子成為台灣百合復育的小小尖兵。（鼻頭國小提供）
On this occasion the students are Students act as the vanguard in efforts to replant the Formosan lily.
(courtesy of Bitou Elementary)
in the care of Sealion Wu, a retired
teacher from Yonghe Elementary
School. “Just now one of you asked
me how come water flows out of
the cliff face in some places but not
in others,” says Wu to the children.
“Who can tell me the answer?”
Wu introduces the students to the
characteristics of sandstone and shale,
handing them pieces of each to exper
iment with. “Sandstone is porous, so
it bubbles when you put it in water,
but shale doesn’t,” he explains.
Because sandstone is porous but
shale is less porous, rainwater flows
down through the sandstone until it
hits a layer of shale; then, because it
cannot go through the shale, it flows
out of the cliff face.
Next Wu takes the students to ob
serve creatures in the intertidal zone.
47
殖的巡查外，也敦請基隆鳥會
在繁殖期間，每天派駐志工在
龍洞擔任守護員，並提供單筒
望遠鏡讓民眾安靜、不驚擾遊
隼的方式欣賞鷹姿。
今（2018）年3月21日在鼻頭
國小，東北角風管處更再次舉辦
「環境教育百合復育活動」，除
鼻頭國小師生及當地社區成員，
並與新北市政府和轄區廠商，共
同於校園內山羊草坡及鼻頭角步
道望月坡種下1,500株台灣百合
花苗。對於自然與環境，東北角
海岸官民一心的成果，近年來更
獲得許多國際上的肯定，如2015
年東北角海岸線的「舊草嶺環狀
線自行車道」獲選入圍有全球觀
光界「諾貝爾獎」之稱的「2015
明日旅業大獎」（To u r i s m f o r
Tomorrow Awards）殊榮，2016-
17更是連續兩年獲選為全球百大
綠色旅遊地，加上2017年由台灣
地質學會辦理的國際研討會來共
同行銷與交流，讓東北角的鼻頭
龍洞地質享譽國際。
未來東北角風管處除了持續
推動遊隼保護、百合復育、與
民間共同辦理淨海、淨灘等活
動外，並將結合鼻頭角步道
中，廢棄軍用營舍改建再利用
的空間，進行地景保育及生態
東北角風管處處長陳美秀。教育宣導，而這也將是下一個
Chen Mei-hsiu, director of the Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic
Area Administration. 極富潛力的遊憩秘境。如同陳
美秀於受訪時所說：「這一代
的年輕人對於這裡的地景保育
觀念非常好，譬如我們種野百
去（2017）年耶誕節前夕，龍有醫生、警員、上班族和學校師合，幾乎沒有人在採，民眾會
洞灣海洋公園業者就號召一群潛生，清出約60袋、200公斤的岸互相勸告。」台灣美麗的海岸
水愛好者和熱心公益民眾，齊心上和海底垃圾。另一方面，東北與珍稀的地質環境，就靠你我
進行海底及海岸清潔，參加人員角風管處除了加強龍洞遊隼繁來共同維護。 l

students practice wearing lifejackets officers, office workers, teachers and 2015 the World Travel and Tourism
while competing in sports. In the third students. In one day they removed Council’s Tourism for Tomorrow
and fourth years, they learn snorkel about 60 bags of garbage, weighing Awards listed the Old Caoling Loop
ing, kayaking and canoeing, either around 200 kilograms. In addition, Line Bicycle Path, which runs around
at Bitou Harbor’s Ruansi Park or at staff from the NYCNSA have stepped the coast of Sandiao Cape, as a final
nearby Longdong Bay Ocean Park. up patrols during the breeding sea ist for a Destination Award, consid
Learning in the natural world son of the peregrine falcon and en ered the Nobel Prize for the tourism
The sea is part of the shared mem listed the aid of volunteers from the industry. In both 2016 and 2017 the
ory of the people of Taiwan’s North Wild Bird Society of Keelung to stand Northeast Coast was selected as one
east Coast. “I’m really impressed with guard over breeding grounds to en of the Top 100 Green Destinations,
a group of people in the area,” says sure that the birds are not disturbed. and in 2017 the unique geology of Bi
Chen Meihsiu, director of the North They also provide telescopes to allow tou and Longdong received further
east and Yilan Coast National Scenic tourists to observe the birds without publicity when the Geological Soci
Area Administration (NYCNSA). disturbing them. ety Located in Taipei held an interna
“They include diving instructors, On March 21, the NYCNSA held tional seminar promoting the area.
guesthouse operators and volunteers, an environmental education event In the future, the NYCNSA will
and on the weekends they organize to replant the Formosa lily. Students continue its efforts to protect breed
groups of divers to come and clean and teachers from Bitou Elementary ing peregrine falcons and to replant
up the coast and river mouths and and local residents joined represen Formosa lilies, and will work with
pluck garbage from the sea.” tatives from the New Tai pei City civic groups to clean up the ocean
Much of the trash is carried across Government and businesses based and shoreline. Furthermore, unused
the ocean and washes ashore in Tai in New Tai pei to plant 1,500 For barracks along the Bitou Cape Trail
wan on sea currents or with passing mosa lily seedlings on Goat grass will be repurposed to promote con
typhoons. Ocean trash has become a Slope on the school grounds and on servation and ecological education
global problem. MoonFacing Hillside adjacent to the and will be a potential resource for
On Christmas Eve last year, the ad Bitou Cape Trail. future recreational activities.
ministrators of Longdong Bay Ocean Environmental preservation ef Preserving Taiwan’s beautiful
Park organized a cleanup of the sea forts on the Northeast Coast have coastline and its unique geological
bed and the coastline. Participants found success through the com features will require the combined ef
included diving enthusiasts and bined efforts of the government and forts of the entire community. l
other concerned citizens from various concerned citizens, and have been (Ivan Chen/photos by Lin Min-
walks of life, including doctors, police praised by international groups. In hsuan/tr. by Robert Green)
49
靜下來，才知道人生要什麼 ◎ 洪蘭
好讀
月
被尊重的孩子才懂得自重（get out of bed on the wrong
一個朋友自己省吃儉用，幾乎 s i d e）。這時因為心神不定，人
到了刻苦的地步，下雨天沒帶傘就會到處走走，看看屋頂有沒有
都捨不得叫計程車，卻給孩子買漏、門窗有沒有閂牢、家畜有沒
最新型的蘋果手機，是典型為孩有關好，這樣走一圈下來心情就
子而活的媽媽。某天，她在打掃好了，因為例行動作會壓抑杏仁
時無意間發現了兒子的日記，偷核的活化，使心情回復正常。因
看後差點崩潰，因為上面記載的此女生心情不好會去逛街、清房
都是她跟孩子的衝突 ——媽媽罵子、整理抽屜；男生會去打籃球，
兒子的話、管的事；對她為孩子做這些看似有目標，但其實不用
的犧牲與照顧卻一字不提。她動到什麼大腦的事。
問：為什麼滿紙都是怨，沒有一個人從演化中學會了對不好的事
是一趟巡覽好文的旅程，
更是一回賞讀美篇的心靈停駐……
也是一段遍閱佳構的遨遊，
感恩的字？要牢記在心，不可忘記，因為大

這是個很有趣的問題，人永遠自然是無情的，它不會給你第二
記得別人欠自己的債，卻不記得次機會。如果上次去打水差點被
自己欠別人的錢。歷史上忘恩負老虎吃掉，那這次最好換個地方
義的人多，感恩圖報的人少，手邊打水，如果不能記取教訓，被老虎
能想起的好像千古只有一個搜孤吃掉了，你在演化上就失敗了。
救孤的公孫杵臼和程嬰，而辜負求生存的力量使得大腦對地點
趙五娘、秦香蓮、杜十娘等的人和順序的記憶，登錄到基因上。
比比皆是。在實驗上，科學家給受試者看上
其實這有演化上的關係，演化百張圖片，請他們判斷圖片上的
比較偏向悲觀，因為它要人們未物體有生命還是無生命，然後再
雨綢繆，不要船到橋頭自然直，萬隨機兩兩出現這些圖片，請他們
一不直，船翻了、人死了，基因就判斷哪張出現在前、哪張出現在
傳不下去了。所以我們常會早上後。結果發現，他們雖然沒有特
起床無緣無故心情不好，發「起意記住出現順序，卻能夠相當正
床氣」，英文叫做「下床下錯邊」確地作出判斷。在平日生活上，考
填空題時，我們可能不記得答案不看，一定要有聲音，沒有聲音就
是什麼，卻記得它在書的某一角；會心慌。她問：這種無時無刻都
若曾在某個角落撿到過一百元，要有聲音陪伴，不能靜處的情形
下次再經過時，大多數人都會不該怎麼辦？
自主地低下頭看，還有沒有一百英文的「a l o n e」和「l o n e l y」雖
元可撿。這跟我們的祖先在某處然都可以指稱是一個人，但意思
採過很甜的漿果，下次再去同一很不同。你可以在很多人的場合
個地方就會有東西吃，是一樣的覺得寂寞，或是獨自一人而不覺得
道理。大腦對凡是跟生存有關的寂寞，端看你的修養。一個國家若
訊息，是不花力氣就記住了。是大人小孩都定不下心，社會將
話說回來，我勸朋友不要難躁動不安。難怪報紙天天有按一
過，記仇不記恩是大腦的本性，聲喇叭就要下車砍人的新聞。華
辦教育就是為了要使人超越動物人一向喜歡熱鬧，好像喧鬧就是書名：靜下來，才知道人生要什麼

作者：洪蘭
的本性。父母對子女的犧牲是為有人氣，其實寧靜才能致遠。
定價：400元頁數：304頁
了使基因傳下去，所以人對兒女一九九六年，北京的佛樂團去出版：天下文化
比對父母好，那是自然定律，不必德國參加世界宗教音樂節。他
自怨自艾。們的節目排在日本的尺八（即洞
現代青少年把隱私看得比天蕭）獨奏之後。當中國大陸的團
還大，父母不要去扮偵探，有話員在後台大聲喧嘩時，日本的演感覺。整個舞台就他一個人，吹

跟孩子好好講，你把他當大人看奏者默默地在角落打坐，他的兒著在中國絕大部分地方都已失
待，他就會以大人的態度來回報子在旁侍立。快開演時，日本音傳，只保留在南管中的洞蕭；沒
你。青春期孩子最渴望的是父母樂家徐徐起身，他的兒子托著一有任何伴奏，沒有任何陪襯，卻
的尊重，一個被尊重的孩子才會個繡有族徽的禮服跪在他面前，一點都不冷場。當他吹完，起立
自重，當孩子懂得自重自愛時，他他向族徽行禮後，兒子恭敬地幫行禮時，觀眾如夢初醒，掌聲久
就能從心所欲不逾矩，你對他的他穿上禮服，這一切都在無聲中久不歇。
教養就完成了。進行。他穿好禮服後，走向舞台輪到中國大陸團上場表演時，
* * * 中央，跪坐下來，低頭一言不發他們有笙、管、笛、木魚，加上
靜下來，才知道人生要什麼兩三分鐘。所有的觀眾都感受到鼓、鐃鈸和鑼，是正宗的佛教音
一位老師很憂心地對我說，這個沉默的力量，大家都安靜下樂，他們也演奏得很好，但效果
現在的孩子愈來愈浮躁，靜不下來，屏息凝氣等待。卻不及日本表演者的獨奏。會
來，他們無法完整地聽進一句當日本音樂家把尺八放到嘴邊後一個歐洲學者說：「在日本的
話，常常只聽一半，有時中間漏開始演奏時，那個嗚咽聲彷彿從尺八中，我聽到了禪意，在中國
掉，頭尾不銜接也不自覺，所以做遙遠的時空深處傳來，讓人產生的音樂中，我只覺得吵，不見佛
事會出錯。甚至有些大人也是一「前不見古人，後不見來者，念意。」這個吵趕走了佛教音樂應
回家就立刻把電視打開，不管看天地之悠悠，獨愴然而涕下」的有的悠揚。
53
我們常常忽略了靜的重要，現是進了公司，最想和誰共事時，會浪費，所以您不要，我可以自
在許多教室都配有擴音器，怕坐別人的回答都是樣版 ——我是來己吃。我說潛艇堡比你平常吃的
在後面的學生聽不見，其實，專心學習的，不論跟著誰我都會好好麵包貴一倍吧？他說不會，切一半
才是聽見的主要原因。有一次我學；這位同學卻能馬上說出名字賣給同學，還可以小賺一點呢。
去一所國中演講，在走廊上就聽及想學的東西，所以他被錄取了。很多人不在意小節，說「成大事
到各班級的授課聲，為了要蓋過老闆說，「當大家都差不多時，決者不拘小節」，其實小節是窺視人
隔壁班的音量，老師只好開得更定在細節」，令我深思。品的窗，小處不苟且的人，大處不
大聲。擴音器不但不能幫助孩子有一個小故事。二次世界大戰結會妥協。細節的注意需在生活中
學習，反而造成干擾。其實聲音愈束後，大阪民不聊生，有個放貸的培養，這孩子有個好母親，平日有
大，孩子愈不需要專心聽，於是老人每天晚上把髒皺的鈔票在小教導他做人做事的道理，成就了
就愈聽不見，反而是聲音不大時，火爐上一一熨平。有人問：錢就是他的細心。杜威（J o h n D ewey）
為了要聽見，大家都會靜下來。錢，不會因熨平而多一點，何必如是對的，「生活教育比知識教育
一九五 ○ 年代的教室沒有麥克此費事？他說鈔票熨平了就像新重要」！
風，而且一班有六十四人 (不像現鈔，給人的感覺比較好。就這一點 * * *

在小班才三十人 )，我們也一樣讀差別，讓他後來成為銀行家。大人放不了手，
完了中學，沒有少聽到什麼。這學生在細節上的確高人一孩子何來創意？
我們要想辦法讓孩子把心靜下等。有一次我中途攔截一位要去之前有幸應香港中文大學之
來，靜下來，才聽得見天籟；靜下北京的美國教授先來台灣演講。邀，擔任邵逸夫爵士傑出訪問學
來，才聽得見自己內心的聲音；靜依國科會規定，他必須要在兩個人講座，有一週時間與逸夫學院
下來，才知道自己的人生要什麼。大學公開演講才能報帳，所以台的學生和老師切磋。因為台灣學
* * * 北一講完馬上要趕去台南，第二生被批評缺少國際觀，我便留心
人人會Google，天才來得及到北京。在高鐵站，這看他們在這方面是怎麼做。
小細節決勝負學生遞來一個潛艇堡，叫我不用逸夫學院的學生每學期有四
我有三個學生成績一樣好，個買便當。這教授一見眉開眼笑，說次正式晚宴演講。學院規定男生
性也都樂觀合群，但是在找工作他很怕便當會弄髒他還要穿好幾西裝革履、女生洋裝高跟鞋，跟
上，其中一個找到兩個工作，有兩天的西裝。演講者一起坐下來吃三道菜的西
個還未找到，我不免有些好奇。我我還他錢時，順便問他怎麼想餐，餐後再聽演講。院長說，服
在喜宴中巧遇找到工作學生的老到買潛艇堡？他說中午看到這位裝的要求是使學生打從心中尊敬
闆，就問他詳情。教授不太會拿筷子，就知道便當這個場合。人的行為會受到環境
他說現在年輕人在面試前，都對他不合適，尤其去台南的車每制約，衣冠楚楚時表現會比較文
會先上網看一下公司情形，也都站停，會不停剎車，麵包可能比便雅，就像喧鬧的孩子在進入教堂
能各言爾志，但是別人只在網路當好，所以就先買了。我說萬一我後會噤聲一樣。
上看產品，這個找到工作的學生不要時，你怎麼辦？學生說：我媽從過去的講者如李遠哲、楊
卻到光華商場實際看了成品，所說，替人買東西，一定要買萬一人振寧、費孝通、邱成桐、何炳棣
以回答的深度不一樣。被問到若家不要的話，自己可以要的，才不看來，這個講座的確是學院的大

（莊坤儒攝）
事，演講完的發問時間比演講時七十億元新台幣，而台大學生卻家，媽甘願養你一輩子。」拉了孩
間還長，使院長有機會當場評估比城市大學多了一萬人。香港城子便走人。這位老師說，不是孩子
演講的成效。市大學的校長郭位是台灣清華大不想長大，是家長不肯放手。她
我問經費的來源，院長說都是學的校友，他很自豪地說，法國國問：「如何使家長不依賴孩子？」
香港仕紳捐贈的，每名學生餐費為家科學院有四名院士在亞洲，這好個「依賴」，竟不是孩子依賴
一百二十元港幣，出席便不收費，四名全在城市大學。目前他們媒媽媽，而是大人不能接受孩子長
缺席要付一百二十元，因為學生必體與傳播系學生的就業率是百分大要離巢。當大人保護太過時，
須養成誠信守諾的習慣，食物也不之百，聽了令我們羨慕不已。巧婦孩子沒有機會去嘗試新經驗，一
可浪費。那天演講結束是晚上十難為無米之炊，徒呼奈何。個從來沒有試過新東西的人會安
點，學生卻沒有散去。院長說聽演我也有機會去香港兩所中學演於現狀。老地圖找不到新航線，
講是吸取別人智慧最快的方法，他講，老師們的問題不在學生，反而目光自然如豆了。
們學生的視野便在這四年三十二在父母身上。一個老師說，他有學歌德說，「光是知道是不夠
場的超級演講中，逐漸打開了。生畢業後去當店員，上工第一週，的，必須會用；光是願意是不夠
回顧台灣的企業家，除了少數母親天天站在對街看。開店自然的，必須力行。」 (Knowing is not
如溫世仁基金會之外，似乎沒有要補貨，香港地狹人稠路很擠，下 enough, we must apply; willing is not
香港太平紳士這種捐錢贊助通完貨後車必須馬上開走，因此店 enough, we must do.) 要打開孩子
識講座的習慣；只靠公家經費在員得搬貨。這位母親看到兒子在的視野，除了給他新知，還得放
台灣的大學辦這種高級講座，幾搬貨，衝過馬路，對著老闆大叫：手讓他去體驗才行。大人放不了
乎是不可能的事。台灣的教育經「你怎麼可以叫我兒子搬那麼重手，小孩就沒機會探知外面不熟
費太少，香港城市大學一年有兩的東西？我兒子是來做店員，不是悉的世界，墨守成規的小孩，是不
百億元新台幣的預算，台大只有做苦工的，」接著對兒子說：「回會有創意的！
55
影像對話　　　 PHOTO ESSAY
（林旻萱攝　 photo by Lin Min-hsuan）

徒步進香紀實
The Baishatun Mazu Pilgrimage (II)

圖•光華攝影組　文•莊坤儒　版面設計•胡如瑜
徒步進香紀實
當白沙屯媽祖抵達北港朝天宮，虔誠的信徒擠滿了廣場，雙手合十為家人祈福。（林旻萱攝）
When Mazu reached Chao-Tian Temple in Beigang, pious believers filled the plaza,
some praying for their families with palms held together. (photos by Lin Min-hsuan)
人生在世，多半是苦多於樂，信仰的力量，讓人們另一批虔誠的信徒則是沿路提供香客們各項服務：有手
找到心靈的寄託，內心安穩了，於是又抬起頭來繼續前沖咖啡、飲料食物、水果，甚至連腳底按摩都來了！徒步
進。期間產生的眾多垃圾，也有專門的信徒義工，騎著單車沿
八天七夜的徒步進香，我們看到虔誠的信徒，不斷地在街收集。這是最乾淨的進香行程，沿途不留一丁點垃圾。
媽祖行經的道路前跪拜，準備「躦轎腳」。每一雙手的皺 2018年四萬多人的信徒跟著白沙屯媽祖走進民間，如同
紋、每一雙眼眸都有故事，這是台灣庶民的寫照，只有深媽祖慈悲的心，映照在人們的臉上，就是台灣人民最溫暖
入台灣鄉間才能看到。的善念。 l

L ife is more often hard than happy, but the power
of faith provides spiritual refuge and peace of
mind, so that people can raise their heads again and
Meanwhile, other devotees are offering all kinds of
services to the pilgrims—pour-over coffee, soft drinks,
food, fruit, and even foot massages! And volunteers
move forward. on bikes follow on behind the procession to pick up
Throughout the eight-day Baishatun Mazu every last scrap of garbage along the route.
Pilgrimage, we see pious believers kneeling to This year over 40,000 of the faithful followed Mazu
worship as Mazu’s palanquin approaches, preparing on her progress among the common people. Mazu’s
to kneel or prostrate themselves to let the deity pass benevolence was reflected in the faces of the people
over them. Every pair of eyes and the wrinkles on along the route, which shone with the light of her
every pair of hands tell a story. Only by going deep compassion. l
into Taiwan’s countryside can one get this view of (photos by Taiwan Panorama photojournalists/
ordinary Taiwanese. text by Chuang Kung-ju/tr. by Phil Newell)
59
八天七夜的進香行程，
沿途可見提供香燈腳休息
的車子、奉茶，甚至還有
按摩志工。（莊坤儒攝）
During the eight-day
pilgrimage, along the road
you can see vehicles to
rest in for the tired, offers
of tea for the thirsty, and
even volunteers giving
foot massages. (photos by
Chuang Kung-ju)

61
信徒用各種方式表達對於白沙屯媽祖的敬愛。（莊坤儒攝）
Devotees express their love and respect for Mazu in countless
different ways. (photos by Chuang Kung-ju)
63
媽祖走進鄉間小路，台灣
最淳樸美麗的風景是人。
（左圖：莊坤儒攝
右頁圖：光華攝影組攝）
As Mazu passes along little
country roads, Taiwan’s
most beautiful scenery is
revealed: its people. (photo
below by Chuang Kung-ju)

65
徒步進香的最後一天，
眾多信徒沿著西濱公路，
一起恭迎媽祖回鑾。
（上圖：林旻萱攝　
下圖：林格立攝）
On the last day of the
pilgrimage, believers
crowd the West Coast
Expressway to welcome
Mazu home. (photo above
by Lin Min-hsuan; photo at
right by Jimmy Lin)

徒步進香紀實
全球視野　GLOBAL OUTLOOK
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文•曾蘭淑　圖•林格立　版面設計•王敬勛

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特獎，先是在區域賽中落榜，卻不放棄，敗部
tration (IMBA) program signed up for the Hult Prize,
復活，意外勝出，打敗全球二萬多個隊伍，拿 known as the Nobel Prize of social enterprise. After
到冠軍。 hitting a hurdle in the regionals, they kept fighting,
他們所開創的社會企業─—IMPCT咖啡，以賣 making a surprise comeback and going on to come
咖啡的收入，至今在中南美洲、非洲等地蓋了7 out top from among over 20,000 teams worldwide.
所幼兒園，實現用才智創業，用獲利改造世界的 The social enterprise they created, IMPCT Cof-
夢想。 fee, has since used its income from selling coffee to
fund the construction of seven kindergartens in Cen-
tral America, South America, and Africa, realizing
星期五週末夜，台北大安區的延吉街車馬喧
their shared dream of starting a business with their
囂，明亮的IMPCT咖啡店內，更是人聲鼎沸，談 smarts and changing the world with their profits.
笑聲不斷。
每月的第2個禮拜五，IMPCT舉辦免費咖啡喝 Friday night. Yanji Street, in Taipei’s Da’an District,
到「醉」的「微醺之夜」，鼓勵過路客或是咖啡 bustles with traffic, while the brightly-lit coffee shop of
同好，放鬆心情來品嚐十多種單品豆子，品味特 IMPCT Coffee bustles with activity and laughter.
On the second Friday of each month, IMPCT hosts a
殊的果香、巧克力等咖啡風味，談天說地。
coffee tasting night, encouraging both passers-by and
coffee aficionados to come in and sample over a dozen
different single-origin coffees, experiencing their unique
flavors and chatting in a relaxed environment.
In addition to sharing coffee, though, IMPCT has a
larger vision: to encourage consumers to do their part
IMPCT從參加競賽發展成社會企業，訴說年輕人追求夢想的
成功故事。創辦人（從左至右）：Taylor 、J.D.、Andres、 and contribute to the founding of kindergartens in poor
陳安穠、傅聖潔。（IMPCT提供） communities simply by buying coffee or beans. The
IMPCT’s progress from contest entrant to growing social
enterprise offers a real-life success story, encouraging young company’s name reflects its founders’ aspirations—by
people to pursue their dreams. Here we see the founders: from omitting the “a” in “impact,” they emphasize that “a
left to right, Taylor Scobbie, J.D. Prudot, Andres Escobar, Chen
An-nung, and Jessi Fu. (courtesy of IMPCT) person” is all that is needed to make an impact.
69
除了分享咖啡，I M P C T還有一個遠大理念，國合會秘書長項恬毅認為，國合會獎學金主要
鼓勵消費者喝一杯咖啡、買一盒咖啡時，都可以目的便是協助開發中的友邦國家培育人才，一千
發揮影響力，成為貧困社區幼兒園的創辦人。多位曾經接受獎助的學生，現在也為各國政府所
impact英文是「影響力」，IMPCT少了一個字母重用，而且與台灣有著深厚感情，就像IMPCT的
A，缺的A就是希望你（a person）的投入。 2位創辦人一樣貢獻所長。
兩位抱著回饋社會心念的留學生，找了深具財
國合會獎學金，回饋社會
務專業的同學加拿大籍的Taylor Scobbie，與善於
「喝咖啡蓋學校」的創意，從參加2014年霍特折衝協調的台灣同學陳安穠開始參賽的計劃。
獎說起。先是參加在上海舉辦的區域賽，卻落榜了，4
倡議參賽的是來自宏都拉斯的Juan Diego Prudot 人雖沮喪，但仍以敗部種子的方式參賽，於2015
（簡稱J.D.），他與薩爾瓦多的Andres Escobar，年4月在美國I n d i e g o g o平台進行群眾募資，以
恰巧都是拿到我外交部國際合作發展基金會（簡「投資小額資金為貧童蓋學校」為號召，募得五
稱「國合會」）外籍生獎學金來到台灣留學。萬九千多美元的資金，成為敗部隊伍的冠軍，拿
中文名為潘方砥的J.D.以字正腔圓的國語說：到進入決賽的門票，並且還可以到美國波士頓接
「來唸IMBA的學生無非抱著想找更好工作、更高受為期6週的新創加速器訓練，只是必須限期在1
薪水的想法。但我們兩人多了另一項動機，因為我個半月內完成所提計劃。
們比其他人幸運，拿到國合會獎學金，可以接受更
絕處逢生，全球冠軍
高等教育，包括我的爸媽都鼓勵我要回饋所學，幫
助別人，讓更多人可以享有我所擁有的機會。」同年9月初，IMPCT將募得的資金在薩爾瓦多蓋
了第一間「Playcare
（玩安）幼兒園」。
緊接著9月底到紐約
參加總決賽，在諾貝
爾和平獎得主穆罕默
德．尤努斯與澳洲前
總理朱莉婭．吉拉德
等評審的決選下，從
美國前總統柯林頓手
中，接下總冠軍獎盃
與100萬美元的創業
基金。
Andres 長期在薩爾瓦多
進行玩安幼兒園建校工
作。（IMPCT提供）
Andres Escobar stayed
in El Salvador during the
construction of Playcares
there. (courtesy of IMPCT)

Giving back to the community 一盒咖啡是一個磚塊，每盒咖啡有一組磚碼，
可以為蓋學校盡一份心力。
The idea of using coffee to build schools started with One box of coffee is worth one brick, and each box
the founders’ participation in the 2014 Hult Prize. comes with a “brick code” that helps build a school.
The story begins with Juan Diego Prudot (known as

J.D.) of Honduras and Andres Escobar of El Salvador,
who met as students studying in Taiwan on Interna- hai. While they were initially frustrated by not making
tional Cooperation and Development Fund scholarships it through, they persisted through the competition’s
from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. repechage system. In April 2015, they also launched a
“Everyone who came to study for an IMBA was crowdfunding project on American platform Indiegogo,
dreaming of finding a good job with a high salary,” says “IMPCT – Real Early Education in Urban Slums.” By
J.D. in impeccable Mandarin. “The two of us had a dif- the end of the campaign, the team had raised just under
ferent motivation though. We were luckier than most US$60,000, helping them win the repechage bracket and
there because we were able to get a higher education move on to the finals.
thanks to getting TaiwanICDF scholarships. Because of Starting from the bottom
that, my parents encouraged me to do what I can to give By early September that same year, IMPCT had raised
back, help others, and give other people the same kind enough funds to build their first “Playcare” kindergarten
of opportunities I’ve had.” in El Salvador. At the end of that month, they made their
These two international students with a desire to give way to New York to compete in the finals, presenting
back then sought the help of fellow students Taylor Scob- their pitch to a panel of judges that included Nobel lau-
bie of Canada and Chen An-nung of Taiwan to get their reate Muhammad Yunus and former Australian prime
project underway, the former for his financial knowledge minister Julia Gillard. In the end, they were awarded
and the latter for her mediating and negotiating skills. their championship trophy and US$1 million in venture
The first step was the Hult Prize regionals in Shang- capital by former US president Bill Clinton himself.
71
當初發動參賽的
J.D.與陳安穠坐鎮
台灣，推廣「影
響力咖啡」，同
時引進全台第一
台Modbar手沖咖
啡機，沖出符合
單品咖啡特質的
味道，以吸引消
費者。
J.D. and Chen An-
nung took the lead
in Taiwan, promoting
IMPCT Coffee and
bringing in Taiwan’s
first Modbar
pour-over coffee
machine, brewing
cups that bring out
the characteristic
flavors of their
coffees and draw in
curious customers.
J.D.事後分析，因為區域賽遭到淘汰，讓要設立解決社會問題的企業，將蓋學校的夢想實
IMPCT成員存在危機感，好還要更好，因此不斷現。」
修正商業模式，以符合真正市場的需求與可執行如今IMPCT在瓜地馬拉、薩爾瓦多、南非、宏
力，是他們勝出的主因。都拉斯等地總共蓋了7間幼兒園。他們選擇城市
此外，4人各有強項，加上不眠不休地努力，加週遭的貧民窟設立社區型幼兒園。
拿大的Taylor對於達成目標信念堅定；台灣的陳安 Andres發現，在他的家鄉薩爾瓦多，偏鄉有許
穠顧慮到每一個人的想法，在多次辯論與爭吵中多勞力密集的工廠，甚至高達7成的女工是單親
居中協調；薩爾瓦多的Andres重視品牌的塑造；媽媽，小朋友沒有得到很好學前教育的機會。因
宏都拉斯的J.D.總是鼓勵大家，又擅長網路建構。此IMPCT團隊說服工廠的老闆，另外成立「工廠
型玩安幼兒園」，由IMPCT提供專業的師資，引
蓋學校行善
進蒙特梭利的教法，讓這些低收入戶與單親媽媽
100萬美金也成為IMPCT厚實的創業基金，他的小孩，均能夠接受更好的教育。
們在美國登記 IMPCT（恩沛）國際投資股份有限
自創「影響貿易」
公司，在台灣設立營業總部，同時將資金用於海
外建校、培育師資與品牌研發上。 IMPCT以銷售咖啡作為企業獲利的來源，不僅
然而霍特獎是一個運用點子的創意比賽，直接向開發中國家的咖啡農，或是願意回饋社區
I M P C T團隊回到現實生活，是否真的要以社會的莊園購買咖啡豆，扶植屏東新興的咖啡農也在
企業為志業？陳安穠說：「一開始我不像J.D.與採購的考量之列。
Andres有回饋國家的情懷，但一路走來，我們4 更進一步，IMPCT將銷售咖啡收入的3成，用
個人在敗部賽時，就各自辭掉原有的工作，決心來興建貧民區或工廠幼兒園，IMPCT團隊認為，

Looking back, J.D. says that the initial failure in the Cofounder Andres Escobar
regionals gave them a sense of crisis and spurred them found that in his home country, El
to do even better, so they worked ceaselessly on refin- Salvador, remote towns were also
ing their business model to better fit the market. This, often home to labor-intensive fac-
he says, was key to their eventual victory. tories where as many as 70% of the
Building schools and doing good female laborers were single mothers
That US$1 million provided a firm foundation for the with children who had little chance
company. The founders registered an international in- of getting a preschool education.
vestment company in the US, set up their headquarters The IMPCT team set to work per-
in Taiwan, and began putting their funds to use build- suading the factory bosses to let
ing schools and training teachers abroad, while also them set up “Factory Playcare” kin-
working on developing their brand further. dergartens, staffed by teachers pro-
Today, IMPCT has built a total of seven kindergartens vided by IMPCT and making use
in places including Guatemala, El Salvador, South Af- of Montessori teaching methods, to
rica, and Honduras. Each of them was set up as a com- give the children from these low-
munity kindergarten in slums on the outskirts of a city. income and single-parent house-
holds a shot at a better education.
Making an impact
IMPCT’s coffee sales serve as a
IMPCT團隊2015年從美國前總統柯林頓手中， source of profit for the company.
接下霍特獎總冠軍獎盃。（IMPCT提供）
The IMPCT team received their Hult Prize in 2015 from Not only do they purchase beans di-
former US president Bill Clinton himself. (courtesy of IMPCT) rectly from coffee farmers in devel-
oping countries, they also buy from
other farms willing to give back to
their communities. Currently, they
are considering adding novice cof-
fee farmers in Pingtung County to
their list.
IMPCT put 30% of their revenues
from coffee sales toward building
kindergartens in impoverished
communities and at factories. The
team believe that such a model goes
beyond fair trade and into “impact
trade.”
However, doing good alone is
not enough—social enterprises
also need to find their own sustain-
able business model. IMPCT have
constantly adapted and adjusted
their methods, such as expanding
73
這樣的商業模式已經超越了公平
貿易，而是「影響貿易」。
然而，社會企業在做好事之
餘，也必須在企業經營面找到利基
點，IMPCT不斷調整經營方式，
從2016年起在網路與各市集擺攤，
賣咖啡也賣理念；2017年4月推出
「磚塊咖啡」概念；同年8月則在
台北延吉街成立了實體店面。
透過創新商業模式，增加金
流，就能增加行善的機會。例如
2017年中秋節，IMPCT與社企循
環基金（S E RT）合作賣了5,000
份咖啡禮盒，I M P C T用此所得 IMPCT定期舉辦免費咖啡喝到「醉」的「微醺之夜」，
咖啡同好來此聊天品咖啡。
在瓜地馬拉蓋了一間幼兒園。
IMPCT organizes regular coffee tasting evenings, bringing
IMPCT同時在單品豆之外，開發 coffee lovers together to drink and chat.
企業豆的通路。台灣政府目前有
鼓勵企業選購社企產品，IMPCT
利用此項優勢宣傳，讓悠遊卡等都拉斯偏鄉蓋了第7所學校，透過賣聯名商品與蓋學校的服
公司成為他們的客戶。陳安穠務，IMPCT又開創了一個新的商業模式。
說，如果企業連續2年採購金額1
創新永續，逐夢踏實
至7萬美元的咖啡豆，就可以累積
足夠磚塊蓋一間學校。如今，想要回饋社會的Andres 長住薩爾瓦多進行建校工
J.D.認為：「因為我們強調解作；加拿大的Taylor則奔波於美國、歐洲，在大學校園與企
決社會議題的理念，許多人受我業推廣；另一位新進的股東傅聖潔則剛去韓國推廣IMPCT；
們鼓勵，讓我們感到發揮影響力 J.D.與陳安穠坐鎮台灣，開闢新通路與行銷來推廣「影響力
的成就感，也因此得到至台北101 咖啡」。
大樓與台糖總公司設置快閃店的從單純參加競賽到成為人生志業，霍特獎的光環，讓他們
良機。」實現初步的夢想，創建了一個做好事的國際企業。
IMPCT善於利用機會，將它創不止如此，他們還懷抱著更深刻美好的抱負。J.D.希望5
造成商機。例如有一天，IMPCT 年後的IMPCT，是帶著社會服務目的的星巴克咖啡; Andres
咖啡店來了一個貴客，是台糖公希望在薩爾瓦多蓋更多的玩安幼兒園；Taylor希望IMPCT發
司董事長黃育徵，得知台糖也朝展成像美國藍瓶咖啡一樣，成為咖啡界中的蘋果電腦；至於
社企目的向宏都拉斯咖啡小農採陳安穠希望IMPCT成為各式社企商品的平台，並且笑著說：
購咖啡，IMPCT抓住機會與台糖「把自己嫁掉。」
合作，今（2018）年7月在台糖會靠著創意與夢想，創造收入，也透過教育行善助人，解決
所設置快閃店，共同將所得在宏社會議題，發揮影響力。有什麼比這樣的工作更吸引人呢？l

into selling coffee online and at local markets, selling beans worth between US$10,000 and US$70,000 for
their ideals along with the coffee. In April 2017, they two years running, says Chen An-nung, then that gets
launched a channel for buyers of boxes of coffee to di- IMPCT enough bricks to build one school.
rectly support Playcares, and in August they set up a But this is not the end of the ambitions the four
brick-and-mortar location on Yanji Street, Taipei. founders hold for IMPCT. J.D. hopes that in five years
Through this innovation in their business model, time, IMPCT will be the socially oriented Starbucks;
they have been able to boost cash flow while also in- Escobar hopes to build even more Playcares in El Salva-
creasing their opportunities to do good. During the dor; Scobbie hopes IMPCT will be on par with Ameri-
Mid-Autumn Festival in 2017, for instance, IMPCT can company Blue Bottle Coffee and be the Apple of the
worked with the Social Enterprise Revolving Trust coffee world; and Chen hopes to make IMPCT a social
(SERT) to sell 5,000 coffee gift boxes, and used the funds enterprise platform—and, she laughs, to “get married.”
raised to build a Playcare in Guatemala. In addition to Driven by creativity and dreams, these four have
their direct sales of single-origin beans, IMPCT are also been able not only to create a source of income, but also
working on developing corporate channels. The ROC to help others through education and contribute to re-
government encourages companies to buy from social solving a social issue. What kind of work could be more
enterprises, and IMPCT have taken advantage of this appealing than that? l
opportunity to gain publicity by making the EasyCard (Esther Tseng/photos by Jimmy Lin/
Company one of their customers. If a company buys tr. by Geof Aberhart)
75
島嶼行旅　AROUND TAIWAN
台三線「樟之細路」
浪漫與慢行的大道
The Raknus Selu Trail
—A Slow, Romantic Journey
文•鄧慧純　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•王敬勛
2018年，全長四百多公里的國家級長程步道
「樟之細路」正式被命名，這條之前不曾出現
I n 2018, a partly finished national-level hiking
trail that stretches more than 400 kilometers was
given its official name: the Raknus Selu Trail. Run-
在地圖上的路徑，主要沿著以客家聚落為主的
ning through Hakka communities near Provincial
台三線，縱向串聯舊有的古道、農路、郊山步 Highway 3, it has been stitched together from old
道而成。此地域昔日是大片的天然樟樹林，先 trails, farming roads, and narrow hiking paths. This
民入山伐採煉腦，成就台灣樟腦王國的名號， area used to be covered with native camphor wood
也是帶領台灣通往十九世紀大航海時代與世界 forests. When the Han Chinese pioneers first entered
連結的路徑。 these mountains to cut the camphor trees, they ended
up creating an industry that would earn Taiwan the
moniker “kingdom of camphor.” The industry would
隨著產業興衰，高聳的樟樹林被低矮的茶園、
connect Taiwan to the global shipping routes of the
果園取代，昔日貫通各部落、庄頭的古道，因為
19th century.
台三線修築，部分被鋪上了柏油；部分路徑因少
人使用，被大自然收復。 With that industry’s demise, camphor forests would
千里步道協會的夥伴經半年多的踏查，從有路 be replaced by fruit orchards and tea plantations. With
走到沒路，再硬開出一條細路，翻過山頭，越過 the construction of Provincial Highway 3, some of the
稜線，把遺失的路一段段找回來，串聯起在地的 roads that connected those settlements in former times

were covered over with asphalt, while others, as they
故事。
fell into disuse, were reclaimed by nature.
浪漫台三線裡的「樟之細路」 Members of the Taiwan Thousand Miles Trail Associ
ation spent more than half a year investigating on foot,
「樟之細路」的英文名為Raknus Selu Trail， walking both where there were paths and where there
「Raknus」是泰雅族、賽夏族語中「樟樹」的意 were none, to clear a way once more for the Raknus
思，「Selu」是客語「細路」的發音，意思是小 Selu Trail.

77
徑。從命名即可知這地域容納了原客家古厝是「樟之細路」上常見的風景。
Traditional Hakka residences are a common sight
住民族與客家文化的多元，昔日他 along the Raknus Selu trail.
們為了地域與經濟利益，頻生無數
衝突，而今日各族群在此地合作共
生。在地域上，「樟之細路」沿著
台三線，串聯桃園龍潭到台中東勢
的古道、農路、小徑，沿途經過新
埔、關西、芎林、竹東、橫山、北
埔、峨嵋、南庄、三義、頭屋、獅
潭、公館、大湖、卓蘭十數個客家
小鎮，細路路徑不寬，卻在每個羊
腸小徑裡藏著豐富的人文故事。
小英總統競選時提出「浪漫台
三線」計畫，參考自德國「浪漫大
道」觀光路徑的概念，想將遠離平
原、被稱為內山公路的台三線沿
線，以「浪漫台三線」的概念串
聯，以此振興桃、竹、苗、中的觀
光產業。「樟之細路」是該計畫下
的子項，規劃串聯出一條純粹提供
走路使用的步道，藉由步行深度的
探訪社區、親近自然，也幫助小鎮
的經濟。
而在民間，成立於2006年的
「千里步道協會」，多年來推動
了台灣諸多重要的步道運動，2011
年，協會倡議完成全長三千多公里
的環島路網後，下一步將目標轉向
長距離健行步道的推廣。
山重水複疑無路的探查
「其實不是原本就有一條路叫
做『樟之細路』，也不存在單一條
路從龍潭一直走到台中。而且路是
隨著人的使用一直在改變。經原住
民與漢人開墾、取用山林資源，再
到日治時代、國民政府時期，其實
路都一直在變化。」千里步道協會
副執行長徐銘謙解釋著。

A trail along Taiwan’s “romantic highway” many’s Romantic Road. One fruit of this plan, Raknus
The trail’s name comes from raknus, which is Atayal Selu, pieces together a long trail intended exclusively
and Saisiyat for “camphor tree,” and selu, which is Hakka for walkers, giving them opportunities to explore com
for “trail.” From the name, one can tell that this area holds munities on foot, to experience nature up close, and to
the culture of both Aborigines and Hakkas. The trail’s strengthen the economies of small towns.
route closely follows the route of Provincial Highway 3 The Taiwan Thousand Miles Trail Association, founded
as it connects old foot roads, farming roads and narrow in 2006, announced back in 2011 that its next step after es
trails between Taoyuan’s Longtan and Taichung’s Dong tablishing a network of 3,000 km of trails around Taiwan
shi. Although the trail can be quite narrow, at every twist would be to promote the creation of longdistance trails.
and turn it shows off broad cultural and historical wealth. Finding a way through the wilds
Tsai Ing-wen’s first campaign for the presidency intro “In fact there was never a single ‘Raknus Selu’ road that
duced a “Taiwan Romantic Route 3” plan, which aimed went all the way from Longtan to Taichung,” explains the
to bolster the tourism industries of Taoyuan, Hsinchu, association’s deputy executive director, Hsu Mingchien.
Miaoli, and Tai chung along the Provincial Highway The association linked together several old trails that
3 corridor by drawing inspiration from southern Ger were popular with hikers, but realized that many of the
vehicular roads that they had chosen as connecting seg
ments were illsuited to become part of a hiking trail. As
sociation members had to go out in the field to investigate
踏查的路上，依著古地圖找尋已經消失的古道。 for themselves and look for mountain trails to replace
Here the trail follows an old road that had disappeared but was
rediscovered on an old map. those segments of highway.
79
步道上常可見小巧的伯公廟，守護著當地居民。
There are many Hakka-style shrines to the Earth God
along the trail, which serve to protect local residents.
後方夥伴則負責在樹上綁上識別布條。常
常鑽出樹叢後卻發現卡在邊坡上，或是從
民家的別墅後花園掉出來。聽他的描述十
足如武俠加上時空穿越劇的情節，過程艱
辛又奇幻；也常遇好心民家開車接送，或
是在寒夜遞上一碗燒燒的湯麵，這是踏查
過程中最暖心的一節，也是台灣專屬的人
情味。
樟之細路的定線，除了含括現今常用的
古道外，部分已經消失卻別具文化意義的
路徑也希望能被重現出來。徐銘謙舉「老
官道」為例，這是日治時期連接苗栗大湖
與卓蘭間的交通要道，該路段部分被改為
產業道路，部分路段則因少人利用，而日
一開始，協會依熟悉古道前輩們的建議，
把登山界常用的幾條古道串聯起來，卻發現
途中將會大量使用公路或產業道路，不符合
當初想找出一條純粹提供走路使用的路線。
協會的夥伴只能親自下海普查，找出可以替
代公路的山徑。
他們翻出昔日的《台灣堡圖》（日治時
期繪製的台灣地形圖），套疊古今的地圖、
研判路線，或探訪社區耆老詢問當地是否有
被棄置的舊古道。問不到路時，就自己想辦
法。協會的專案秘書黃思維參與全路段的勘
查，他分享一次出訪探查約4人一組，3人
負責上山找路，1人負責開車接送，當其他
同伴在探查時，司機就負責到鄰近社區，找
居民開講（聊天），希望聊出更多在地的故
事。踏查的過程有可能會走上稜線，或是沿
著民家採竹筍的路，鑽鑽探探。在山重水複
疑無路時，靠著山刀，自己的古道自己開，

They found a set of topographical maps from the cites the lao guan dao—“the old government road”—
Japanese colonial era, which they compared to current which was the main route connecting Miaoli’s Dahu
maps. And they went into local communities to ask and Zhuolan during the Japanese era. Getting little use,
elders if they knew of any abandoned old roads or some portions of the road were abandoned to nature.
trails. In places where these efforts provided no leads, But on the topographical maps completed in 1904 you
the members of the task force were left to their own can find the road. “Before Provincial Highway 3, it
devices. Huang Szuwei, who is heading up this project was the most commonly used road hereabouts, and it
for the association and took part in surveys of the entire didn’t fall into disuse until the highway opened,” Hsu
route, explains that they might walk along a ridgeline explains. “So we felt it was important to make that road
or follow paths that locals use to cut bamboo shoots. part of Raknus Selu.”
They followed all leads, continually searching and ex Digging up local stories
ploring. Where there was no path to follow, they’d pull The trail association has also tried to locate a variety
out machetes to make their own way, as group mem of sites of cultural significance along the trail.
bers behind them hung marker strips on trees to blaze Chuhuangkeng can be found beside Expressway 72
the trail. Friendly locals would often give them lifts or in Miaoli’s Gongguan Township. Huang explains that
offer them hot bowls of noodles on cold nights. Their this was the first site in Taiwan where oil was discov
hospitality was a heartwarming part of the process. ered. The world’s second oil well was sunk there in
Apart from the popular old trails, the Raknus Selu 1877.
Trail also features sections of roadways of important The old Chuyun and Chuguan trails near Chuhuang
cultural significance that had completely disappeared. keng have also been included in Raknus Selu. The Fa
The hope is to bring these back to life. Hsu Mingchien yun Temple affords views of Dahu, where Hakka and
從法雲寺眺望大湖，這邊
是過去客家人和原住民相
遇衝突的地點，而今各族
群在此地合作共生。
Looking from the Fayun
Temple toward Dahu, you
can see where the Hakkas
battled Aboriginal tribes
in times gone by. Today,
various ethnic groups live
here together in peace.
出磺坑還保留當年鑽油井
的設備，鄰近有油礦文化
產業聚落遺跡。
The Chuhuangkeng oilfield
still holds drilling equipment
from back in the day. Nearby
are many other relics from
the era of oil extraction.
81
漸荒廢，但在1904年日本人完成的《台前，大家最常使用的路徑，直到公路出現才
灣堡圖》或其他地籍圖上都有這條「老取代了它的用途，所以我們覺得要把老官道
官道」存在。在訪談中也得知，老官道劃入樟之細路的一部份，把它重現出來。」
曾是當地一位退休老師小時候通學的路徐銘謙說。
徑，「它可以說是在台三線省道施工之
挖掘在地的故事
路是人走出來的，有人的地方就有故事。
踏查古道的同時，發覺在地的故事。
樟之細路沿線，隨處可見昔日先民生活的腳
隱身在石光古道附近的石光天主堂，大家熟知
的關西天主堂是依此雛形而建造的。印。
While scouting out the trail, the task force also
seek out local stories. The Church of St. Francis 千里步道協會在探查中，同時爬梳路徑上
Xavier, tucked away near the Shiguang Old Trail at
Shiguang in Hsinchu’s Guanxi Township, provided 多元的文化景觀，如途中常見的伯公廟、茶
the architectural model for the much better known
Church of the Sacred Heart in downtown Guanxi. 園景觀、水圳路等，從地名樟腦寮坑、上樟
樹林就可知當地與樟腦產業的關聯，還有當
初漢人為了屯墾，劃界設隘，區隔原住民族
的隘勇線。
位在72號東西向快速道路旁出磺坑（苗栗
公館鄉），黃思維解釋說，這地方是台灣最
早發現石油的地方，1877年在此挖掘台灣第
一口油井，也是世界第二老的油井。附近還
留著當年鑽油而形成的產業聚落遺跡，台車
索道、重機具維修庫、二十號宿舍、鑽油平
台，都讓人遙想當年盛景。
出磺坑附近的出雲古道（出磺坑─法雲
寺）跟出關古道（出磺坑─關刀山），一同
被納入樟之細路的主線道。登上鄰近的法雲
寺，從其平台眺望大湖，這邊是過去客家人
和原住民相遇衝突的地點；再遠處則是李喬
的大河小說《寒夜》裡故事的發生地蕃仔林
（現苗栗縣大湖鄉靜湖村舊名）。
繼續北上，往位在苗26縣道旁的「楔隘古
道」（獅潭─公館），黃思維引我們看古道
工法的門道，石階上依稀可見兩處約5公分長
的平整缺口，這是當年古道修築時，用小鑿
子敲開大石的痕跡。石階的終點留有前人以
客語寫下「上崎觸鼻孔，下崎觸髻鬃」的詩
句，彷彿可想見前人行進時氣喘吁吁，生動
的描述這段石階的陡直難行。
續行到新竹關西的「石光古道」，這是昔
日連絡石岡子（石光社區舊稱）與龍潭間的

Aboriginal tribes once battled. A bit farther in the dis had been smoothed by the flow of water. When build
tance is the “Fanzai forest” depicted in Cold Night, the ing the road, the pioneers used those river rocks, so the
river novel by Li Qiao. Today, the location is known as pavers look quite different from the large cut stones
Jinghu Village, in Miaoli’s Dahu Township. used to pave the old Shitan–Miaoli road. The height of
Continuing southward, on the Xie’ai Old Trail (the the steps on these roads was also carefully considered
old Shitan–Gongguan road) alongside Miaoli County to suit those carrying loads with shoulder poles.
Route 26, Huang invites us to examine the old trail’s Building the trail oneself
craftsmanship. On its stone steps one can vaguely see Only by having knowledge of how these roads
smooth indentations some five centimeters across, were built can we gain a better understanding of the
which he explains are the marks of chisels from back pioneers’ lives and the wisdom they demonstrated in
when the rock was split to build the road. living in balance with nature. The trail association has
Next we hit the Shi guang Old Trail in Hsin chu’s over the years assiduously promoted building trails
Guanxi Township, which was once an important agricul by hand over the mechanized techniques used when
tural road connecting Shigangzi (the old name for Shi projects like these are bid out to construction firms. Hsu
guang) with Taoyuan’s Longtan. The stone pavers used explains that when you treat building a trail as an engi
here were rounded river rocks. Huang explains that the neering project, the approach naturally becomes build
area was once a riverbed, and it was full of rocks that ing it once to last forever. But the granite, cement and
83
重要農產古道。觀察當地的石階多是渾圓的鵝條件，親身體驗搬運、挪移石塊，了解如何讓
卵石，黃思維解釋，這地域原是河床地，佈滿它以恰恰好的角度，坐立在路基上，就像是盤
被河水沖刷的鵝卵石，先民修路就地取材，也古開天以來就在那兒一般。
因此與楔隘古道取用大石頭再擊切的形狀不我們親自參與了一場工作假期，當天的任
同。石階的高度較矮也有學問，是配合著挑擔務是「渡南古道」維護。步道上有一處邊坡
人行走間扁擔起伏之震幅而修築設計的。被水沖刷而坍塌，之前先用竹子搭了便道，
這回打算用砌石工法讓路基更耐久。一開始
自己的步道自己修
徐銘謙和老師傅檢視邊坡立面，商討如何修
了解前人步道修築的概念，才更能體會先補，接著帶大夥尋找收集合適的大石頭。被
民生活與自然共生的智慧。千里步道協會歷沖刷掉的路基要用大石頭當底基填補，需挑
年來努力推動以手作步道取代工程發包，徐選形狀、大小適宜的石塊。挖鑿的空間亦要
銘謙解釋，以工程的概念施作步道，自然落考量尺寸、深度，石頭到位後必須以各個角
入一次性施作、永久保固的邏輯中，取用如度翻轉、試放，直到尋得最穩固的位置，
花崗石、水泥等的外來原料，但這些東西在才將石頭定位。接續找尋中小型的石塊填補
大自然裡是最不耐用的，常遇損毀需要再修在石縫中，縫隙再倒入大量的砂土，強化穩
復。而手作步道最重要的概念是就地取材、
因地制宜和定期維護。
手作步道的工法常是因地而異、因地制宜手作步道順應所在地的氣候、地質，重視棲
的，難以用文字解釋，協會因此舉辦手作步道地的生態習性。
The ethos of building trails by hand considers local
工作假期，讓志工實地觀察步道的地勢、地質 climate and geology, as well as local ecosystems.

other outside materials that construction firms bring 工具上肩修步道去！手作步道不用工程的思
in are not things that have a lot of durability in nature. 維，而是依靠人力，就地取材。
“Hi ho, hi ho….” With tools on their backs, they’re off
On the other hand, the most important consideration to repair the trail. Building and repairing trails by hand
eschews an engineered approach, relying instead
when making trails by hand is using materials that are on muscle power and on finding materials on site.
found on site—because that makes it easy to perform
regular maintenance. But handmade trails vary from
place to place, so it is hard to describe in writing how to
make them. Accordingly, the association has organized
“trailbuilding holidays” for volunteers.
We participated on one such outing, repairing the
Old Dunan Road section of the trail. At one place where
water had washed out a slope alongside the trail, caus
ing collapse, the maintenance crew decided to lay down
layers of rocks to create a solid base for the trail. At first,
Hsu and an old master trail builder examined the face of
the slope visually and discussed how to repair it. Then
they led the team in looking for suitable large stones.
The base of the trail that had been washed away needed
to be filled in with large stones, which had to be selected
for their size and shape. It’s important to plan before
digging. After the stones were put down, they had to be
turned to get the best fit. Only then were they fixed in
place. Then smaller rocks and pebbles had to be found
to fill in the gaps. Finally, sand was poured into the
cracks to solidify the base. Once repaired, this stretch of
trail looked just like neighboring stretches from the top,
but from the side it resembled patched clothing.
“This way of repairing trails is becoming a global
trend,” says Hsu. “And it’s also the method the pio
neers originally used.”
85
位在新竹縣橫山鄉豐鄉村的茶亭，奉固。修築完的邊坡從上方看來與一般的路
茶文化是台灣濃厚人情味的展現。
This tea shelter in Fengxiang Village in 徑並無二致，但從側面看像衣服的補丁，
Hsinchu’s Hengshan Township tells of a
friendly tea culture distinct to Taiwan. 把缺損的一角再天衣無縫地填回。
其他還有從溪裡找石頭，或鋸木做路
緣，工法概念大致相同，但因為大自然不
像樂高積木的規格化，施作者只能自行發
揮天才，取之自然、因地制宜。「這種方
式是世界的潮流，也是先民的作法。」徐
銘謙說。
這場參與修築步道的夥伴有已在台灣定
居5年的瑞典工程師，也有從桃園復興區、
宜蘭、彰化、台南各地奔來的志工，或許
還是生手，或許已有豐富的山野經驗，大
夥兒都體驗了從眉尖滴落的汗水沁入了土
地，工作手套上沾滿了泥土，彎著腰細細
端詳石頭的形狀，懷抱著沉甸甸的石頭，
只挪移數步都讓人氣喘吁吁的過程。從此
之後，自己的生命與這條路徑有了連結，
人與土地的關係不再陌生，這是許多志工
一再回來參與的原因，一如徐銘謙說：
「參加過工作假期的人就會上癮。」
7月中旬，樟之細路公私協力國際推廣
備忘錄簽署儀式記者會上，自然生態作家
劉克襄的一段話著實令人難忘，他指出台
三線、中山高、北二高通車，追求的是速
度，是用快速的、寬闊的道路帶來經濟跟
開發的可能性。但2018年定線的「樟之細
路」是一條不一樣的道路，「這是一條慢
的大道，印證了台灣社會所追求的生活價
值與內容逐漸在改變中。」
「樟之細路」是浪漫台三線計畫中最
「浪漫」的一個章節，是一群人探著未知
的路徑，只為串聯起一段段有故事的路；
未來也將是一群人荷著鋤頭，接力交遞沉
重的石塊，一點一滴修築起來的手作步
道。千里步道執行長周聖心說：「它雖然
是一條細路，卻是一條大道。」這是一條
帶起不同思維的大道，從快速到慢行，未
來更期待它是市民公共參與的場域。 l

A Swedish engineer who has lived in Taiwan for 細路路徑不寬，卻藏著豐富的人文故事，
等著人們親身走近探索。
five years was on the repair crew, as were volunteers Although the winding trail is narrow, it holds an
from Taoyuan, Yilan, Changhua and Tainan. Sweat abundance of culture and history, and it beck-
ons to people to explore it for themselves.
dripped off their brows and onto the soil, and their
gloves became smeared with mud as they bent down
to carefully examine the rocks. The biggest rocks were
so heavy that volunteers could scarcely breathe as they
moved them. But their lives became connected to the broad roads can foster economic development. But
trail, and they were no longer strangers to the land. the Raknus Selu Trail, whose route was only finalized
These experiences are some of the reasons volunteers in 2018, is wholly different: “This slow road perhaps
come back to work on the trail again and again. As demonstrates how the values and meaning found in
Hsu says, “Those who participate on these outings life are changing within Taiwanese society.”
find them quite addictive.” The Raknus Selu Trail is the Taiwan Romantic Route
In the middle of July, at a press conference to an 3’s most romantic feature. Its path was unknown be
nounce the signing of a memorandum of understand fore a group of people pieced it together segment by
ing for a public–private partnership to promote the segment. In the years ahead many more groups of vol
Rak nus Selu Trail, the nature writer Liu Ka shiang unteers will donate their time and energy to it, lugging
made an unforgettable speech. He pointed out that tools and moving rocks as they build and maintain the
Provincial Highway 3, the Sun Yatsen Freeway and trail one stretch at a time. l
the Formosa Freeway were all opened to traffic with (Cathy Teng/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
the aim of facilitating speed—with the idea that fast, tr. by Jonathan Barnard)
87
島嶼行旅　AROUND TAIWAN
竹塹 300 年
舊中求變 ‧創造對話
Hsinchu 300 Expo

—New Directions for a Historic City
文•鄧慧純　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•胡如瑜

1718年，清代移民王世傑率族人開墾竹塹，
引頭前溪開鑿隆恩圳，以此為起點，新竹成為北
W ith its elegant Yingxi Gate, two-centuries -
old City God Temple, and Dongmen Market
(once the largest traditional market in Taiwan),
台灣最早開發的都市。
Hsinchu is a city that lends itself to reveling in the
擁有莊重典雅的迎曦門、兩百多年歷史的 past. Yet with the Industrial Technology Research
城隍廟、曾是全台最大的東門市場，新竹的 Institute and the Hsinchu Science Park, the city is
「古」，讓人留連忘返；而自工研院、科學園區 known the world over for its modern present. Hsin-
入駐，新竹的「新」已是全球知名。這個新舊交 chu blends the old and the new and also welcomes
錯的城市，無私的接納各方的移民在此定居，參 newcomers from all over to settle down there, par-
ticipate in its bubbling creativity and help write the
與創造、書寫歷史。
next chapter of the city’s history.
2018年，新竹屯墾開發已歷三百年，新竹市政
This year marks the 300th anniversary of Hsinchu’s
府以「新竹300博覽會」述說竹塹的過去，也瞻 founding, and the Hsinchu City Government is cel-
望城市未來。 ebrating with the Hsin chu 300 Expo to highlight the
「舊中有新意」的新竹，早在1999年，東門 city’s past and the hopes for its future.
城的改造解放了空間，將昔日肅穆的廣場還給市 Today the old city breathes with new life. In 1999
民；2018年，被遺忘許久的隆恩圳化身成最愜 the area around Yingxi Gate was turned into a plaza for
public use just as it was in bygone days. In 2018 the city
意、美麗的綠廊道，讓城市居民能放空、自由的
restored the long-neglected Long’en Canal, making it
步行。
one of Hsinchu’s loveliest, most pleasant walking paths.
「舊中求新意」的新竹也在民間版的願景中 Hsinchu is also a city trying to further incorporate
編織著，舊城區的彎曲巷弄和科學園區的50米大 the old with the new. While the city’s landscape in-
道，都是新竹的面貌，但新竹的新移民與老世 cludes both old lanes and modern thoroughfares like the
居，卻鮮少交流。近年，有年輕的一輩投入，希 50-meter-wide road that passes through the science park,
望新竹人更認識自己一點，或幫新竹增添一些多 the city’s old inhabitants and newcomers rarely interact.
In recent years a younger generation has been striving to
元，為老空間多盡一份心力。
help the city better understand itself, welcome diversity,
見域工作室：連結在地，看見老城區 and breathe new life into the city’s storied fabric.
Viewing the old city through a new lens
2014年，一群來自清華大學的學生創辦「見域
In 2014 a group of students from National Tsing
工作室」，見域意指「看見地方」，因為他們發 Hua University (NTHU) founded CitiLens studio be-
現聊到新竹，總不脫貢丸和竹科，但是竹科不生 cause they had discovered that local residents lacked a
（上圖）東門城的廣場改造
後，古蹟成了舞台，也成為市
民休閒的空間。
(facing page) Since the
renovation of the area around the
Yixing Gate, the new plaza has
served as a recreational space for
the city, and the platform around
the old city gate has become a
popular gathering spot.
（右圖）城隍廟是新竹人的信
仰中心。
The City God Temple lies at the
heart of religious life in Hsinchu.
89
產貢丸，大眾對於新竹的認知是片段而斷裂的，
新竹的文化底蘊也遠遠被低估，於是見域的夥伴
們發想創辦地方誌來介紹新竹。
自此，新竹的名產貢丸湯，不只是吃的，還有
讀的，見域創辦的地方誌《貢丸湯》找尋有趣的
觀點介紹新竹的生活，例如一顆貢丸的誕生、下
（上圖）「見域」希望透過城市導覽，讓人們重新
看見新竹這座令人驚艷而且歷史悠久的城市。班後的文藝日常、那些棲息在新竹市的動物們等
（見域工作室提供）
(top) CitiLens studio hopes to introduce the wonders of historic
有趣企劃，勾起大家對新竹的興趣。
Hsinchu through its city tours. (courtesy of CitiLens) 城市導覽是見域的另一個賣點，透過雙足走
訪巷弄，讓人們重新看見這座偉大而悠久的城
（下圖）地方誌《貢丸湯》提供許多另類認識新竹的觀點。
(bottom) The CitiLens publication Pork Ball Soup presents 市。創辦人之一的王昱登帶我們走過曾經最繁
Hsinchu from quirky angles.
華的北門大街，街上的古蹟周益記，是周敏益
家族自1926年遷入大街、落地生根的大厝，
如今由周家來台第六代周友達提報為古蹟，讓
老屋與家族的故事能繼續被記憶。北門街上另
一頭的鴻安堂，老一輩人常在對角的長和宮求
了藥籤，到此抓藥。如今鴻安堂已傳承到第四
代，內部空間還留著已有年紀的藥格子、藥
櫃。老闆開口問要到裡面看看嗎？房子的二進
院落居然別有洞天，古樸的閩南式古厝，宅門
上仍可見「烏衣衍派」字樣，才知道這藥房經
營者正是唐詩《烏衣巷》中的謝姓人家後代。
一間間的老房子都有自己的歷史，新竹不曾缺
少故事。
一步一腳印，越來越多在地人參與見域舉辦
的活動，王昱登玩笑地說還有一個改變，近期開
始有年輕人願意回新竹，在這邊開業，經營老空
間，「或許看到我們這樣都可以活下來，讓一些
人有了信心。」
如何形容新竹這座城市呢？王登昱說現階段他
們還找不到一個準確的詞來形容新竹，但是希望
藉由城市探索與討論，讓新竹人自己提出對城市
未來的想法。
開門工作室：活化百年老市場
東門市場設立於1900年，1977年重建為地下
一層、地上三層的現代化建築，每一個攤位方
方正正3坪，共有571個，擁有新竹市最早的手
扶梯，曾經是國內單一建築面積最大的市場，
卻因時代變遷而沒落。
2015年，一群清大的師生走進蕭條已久的東

thorough understanding of their city and that its cul-
tural value was grossly underestimated. Participants in
the initiative thought of new ways to introduce the city
to the people.
Since then they have turned Hsinchu’s famous pork
ball soup into something that can be both eaten and
read. CitiLens began to publish Pork Ball Soup, a mag-
azine that introduces life in Hsinchu from interesting
angles.
City walking tours are another selling point. Arden
Wang, one of CitiLens’s founders, gave us a tour of Bei-
men North Street, once the busiest street in the city. On
草藥店是每座老城市必有的風景。
it we came across the Zhou Yiji House, which was the Traditional Chinese apothecaries are an indispensable
feature of historic towns.
family home of Zhou Minyi (1906–1951). Today Zhou
Youda, Minyi’s grandson, is trying to have it officially
recognized as a historic site so that neither the history
of the place nor the family are forgotten.
On another stretch of Dongmen Street sits the Hong dicates that the family name of the apothecary’s owners
An Tang apothecary. In generations past, people would is Xie. Each of these old buildings has its own history,
go there after visiting Changhe Temple, located across ensuring that Hsinchu is never short of stories to tell.
the street, to get a prescription by divination. Today the When asked how best to sum up Hsin chu, Arden
apothecary is run by the fourth generation of the orig- Wangsaysthatdefiningthecityisanongoingprocess.
inal proprietors. The shop retains its original wooden He hopes that the residents will come up with their
medicine cabinets and trays. Going through into the own ideas for Hsinchu’s future by exploring their city
small courtyard at the back of the shop we enter another and discussing its history.
world: a simple old dwelling house in the Southern Fu- Resurrecting a century-old market
jianese style. Painted on the doors of the house is a verse Dongmen Market, first constructed in 1900, was re-
from the Tang-Dynasty poem “Wu Yi Yan Pai” that in- built in 1977 as a modern structure with a basement and
鴻安堂已經與城市相伴近
一百年，屋內的一品一物都
很有歷史。
The Hong An Tang apothecary
has been a part of local life
for nearly a century. Within lie
treasures from the past.
91
（上圖）東門市場的老店氛圍，
彷彿時間還停留在上個世紀。
(left) The storefronts at the
Dongmen Market conjure
memories of times past.
（下圖）開門工作室陳泓維等
人的進駐，利用辦活動、彩
繪，讓東門市場發展出不同於
傳統市集的樣貌。
(below) After Chen Hung-wei and
other members of KhuiMng Studio
set up shop in Dongmen Market,
they created a new feel for the old
market by adding contemporary
artwork and organizing various
activities.
門市場，想方設法地思索，有什麼方法可以讓「我們對成員的期望就是做你想做的事。」
一間間緊閉的鐵門再拉開。例如具美術專長的同學，提出彩繪牆面或許能
「東門市場的凋零，部分原因是市場無法創招攬人氣，擅長企劃的同學就協助寫企劃書，
造吸引外人進入市場的理由。」「所以我想說向公部門申請經費，再由發想者來執行。多數
如果有一個非常異質的團隊進駐，讓每個人用的活動都在三樓3114室「開門工作室」的客廳
自己的眼睛去觀察，找到在這個時代，在市場裡談出來。當初市場的攤商對開門工作室的進
內能做些什麼，或許是市場活化的出口。」開駐抱持懷疑，但也是「我們做了這些超乎傳統
門工作室的創辦人陳泓維說。市場期待的事情，才吸引到從不進市場的人進
團隊開始在市場的空間嘗試各種可能，辦過來。」市場漸漸有了人氣，也讓商家願意敞開
營隊、講座、工作坊、音樂會、電影放映、心房接納他們。
拍攝紀錄片，這些是市場的阿伯、阿婆覺得不一道道緊閉的鐵門在2016年開始有了轉機。
會在市場發生的事情，通通都在市場裡實驗了慢慢有各類型的工作室進駐，一樓的店舖更逐
一回。漸發展成新竹的夜間食堂，下午4點半，當早市

threefloorsaboveground.ItwasonceTaiwan’slargest events that the old vendors would never have imagined
marketbuildingandhadHsinchuCity’sfirstescalator. taking place in the market.
As times changed, however, its popularity waned. Planning for most of the events takes place in the
In 2015, a group of NTHU students entered the des- living room of KhuiMng Studio, located in Room 3114
olatemarketandtriedtofigureoutawaytoreopenthe ofthemarket’sthirdfloor.Whenthestudiofirstmoved
many shuttered stalls. into the market, the vendors were skeptical. “But we
“The market’s decline was in part caused by its in- did many things to attract people to the market who
ability to attract new customers,” says Chen Hung-wei, would have never come before,” Chen says. As the
founder of Khui Mng Studio. “So I thought why not market became more popular, the vendors warmly wel-
invite a team of freethinking individuals to examine it comed the new visitors.
with their own eyes and come up with ideas to resur- By 2016 shuttered market stalls began to reopen.
rectthemarketthroughsolutionsthatfitourtimes.” First studios began to open in the market, and then
The team explored all manner of possibilities to food vendors set up shop on the first floor, lending it
repurpose the market space. They ran camps, lecture the atmosphere of a night market-cum-traditional fair.
series, workshops, concerts, and film screenings, and As a result it became a popular spot for young people
madedocumentaryfilms.Inshorttheyheldallkindsof to grab a bite to eat and check in on Instagram.
Since the Khui Mng Studio moved
into the market, 17 once-shuttered stalls
have reopened. Each of these tiny shops,
roughly100squarefeetinfloorarea,pro-
vides an opportunity to create something
new in the space.
A home for arts and issues
Sinceitsfoundingoverfiveyearsago,
Jiang Shan Yi Gai Suo, a multiuse space
that serves as a local arts center, coffee-
house and event space, has gradually be-
come a place where people go to discuss
important local issues.
It was founded by Chang Deng-yao.
Although he was born in 1984, Chang’s
sagacious bearing matches his old-soul
spirit. He likes arts and culture and is
concerned with local history, society and
the environment.
There are many things that Chang is
interested in that were not to be found in
華燈初上，東門市場一樓店家
化身為夜間食堂。
In the evening, the first floor of Dongmen
Market becomes a food paradise.
93
江山藝改所引薦許多實驗性的創作、表演，當初創立江山藝改所，張登堯說：「很多我
為新竹提供多一點的選擇。（江山藝改所提供）
Jiang Shan Yi Gai Suo has added new facets to Hsinchu’s 感興趣的東西新竹沒有，沒有的話我就自己創
cultural landscape, including experimental art and performances.
(courtesy of JSYGS)
造。」創立之初，沒有表演者也沒有觀眾，張
登堯就自己找表演團體，在街頭上發傳單招攬客
群。「我們的目標不只在同溫層而已」，語畢他
馬上笑著修正：「應該說新竹也沒有同溫層，所
的攤位拉下鐵門，空出來的走道成了夜間大排以我們能做的就是把一些在新竹接觸不到的東
檔的空間，晚餐、消夜、酒吧，與傳統市集的西，透過這個空間，讓新竹人知道有這麼多元的
混搭風，讓東門市場成為年輕人打卡、品賞美活動。」
食的熱門景點。自此，來到江山，你可以聽到爵士或各類型的
從2015年進駐至今，東門市場內有17道曾是實驗音樂，參加讀書會、詩集發表、講座等，小
封閉的鐵門被拉開了，每個3坪的小空間裡，都小空間，卻能量大爆發。
是一個創生的機會。張登堯也打造這裡成為在地居民參與討論公共
議題的平台。溝通很重要，他認為公共政策若能
江山藝改所：為老城注入多元
在規劃階段能讓更多市民參與討論，讓在地居民
採訪的那天下午，鄰近公投收件截止日，江山有一個對未來的想像，促發共同創造的可能，更
藝改所的玻璃門不斷地被推開，許多年輕人來遞能提升在地居民的認同感。
交連署書，展現年輕世代對公共議題的參與和關而選擇留在新竹的原因，張登堯說：「新竹有
注。成立五年多來，江山藝改所漸漸成為新竹在城市的方便，而且人又不會太擠。因為有風的關
地關心公共議題的重要平台。係，所以空氣還蠻流通的，我覺得算是一個不差
創辦人張登堯，1984年出生，外表與雷鬼歌手的生活點。」歸結一句話就是生活感吧！
M a t u k a幾分相似，老成的外表搭配骨子裡的老
在舊中創造，還空間於民
靈魂，喜歡藝術、文化，也關心歷史、社會、環
境等議題。聊到新竹的生活感，走一趟假日的東門城廣場

（上圖）張登堯、游雅淳
夫妻倆一起在新竹經營自己
喜歡的事情。
Chang Deng-yao and his wife,
You Yachun, have brought their
passions to life in Hsinchu.
（下圖）江山藝改所
藏身在新竹市東區興達街
的老房子裡。
Jiang Shan Yi Gai Suo is located
in an old house on Xingda
Street in Hsinchu’s East District.
Hsinchu. “I decided to create a space to

cultivate these interests on my own,”
he says. “Through this space we can in-
troduce local people to many activities
that they don’t come into contact with
in their daily lives.”
After its founding, Jiang Shan be-
came a place where people could listen
to jazz and all types of experimental
music, attend book club meetings and
poetry readings, and listen to lectures.
The space might be tiny, but it over-
flowswithactivity.
Chang would also like the space
to be used as a forum for local people
to discuss local issues. He hopes that
city policy planning will accommodate
more input from local residents so that
the people and the government can
findcreativewaystoworktogetheron
initiatives and by doing so strengthen
local identity.
The people’s plaza
One can experience Dongmen Plaza
firsthand by walking through it on the
weekend. Young couples pushing stroll-
ers stop for picnics. Teenagers practice
95
就能體驗，推著娃娃車的小家庭在此野餐，年輕空間，也使路面平整，讓步道至少有4米寬，讓
學子在鼓動的旋律中伸展肢體，孩童在廣場上奔市民可以自由、安全地散步、活動。
跑嬉戲，笑聲呵呵。再透過步道串聯，建築師將原本被水圳阻隔成
這方舒適的橢圓形空間，早些年還豎立著政治兩側的巷弄、店家、巨城、學校連結起來，在連
人物銅像和獅子會的鐘塔，嚴肅且政治意味濃結的節點上安置幾張小椅子，余在宥希望大家不
重；1999年，建築師邱文傑改造的「新竹之心再是匆匆路過，而是有機會在此停留，用最簡單
──東門城廣場」，一舉拔除多餘的結構，並將的空間創造相遇的機會。
原本封閉、孤立在車陣中的圓環，透過地下道與比對日治時期的老地圖，隆恩圳的河道幾乎沒
護城河親水公園連結，「我的設計就是把市民的有改變，這也是其最富歷史感之處，因此余在宥
流動介入到歷史的城區，讓此新舊交融。」邱文巧心設計，讓步道的動線盡量增加與水道交錯的
傑說。機會，讓市民可從多個角度閱讀水圳。
自此市民可以一路走入古蹟，成為古蹟的一「年輕一輩的設計師努力把這空間的物質性降
部分；下挖的空間形成似羅馬競技場的舞台，到非常非常低，讓空間看起來很輕盈。」黃聲遠
古蹟空間變成舞台，市民可在此展現自我、創造這才開口解釋。而這正是緊繃的都市生活所需要
歷史。的放空空間，是一條可以漫步、聊天、發呆、小
城市的另一頭，已陪伴新竹三百多年的隆恩憩、獨處的綠色路廊，讓民眾在城市裡能再憶起
圳，今年也經過田中央建築團隊，以最輕、最小陽光灑落、清風吹拂和水聲潺潺的愜意。
的設計介入，讓隆恩圳在城市中輕輕浮現。想像一座城市的願景不只是說說而已，新竹這
「這座城市需要的是更多步行的空間。」設計個悠久的城市，還有賴一群人戮力串起對話，創
師余在宥說。於是他們架高地面，創造出大片的造改變。更好的明天，是他們最認真的期待。 l

隆恩圳的改造，讓市民在城市中憶起陽光灑落、
清風吹拂和水聲潺潺的愜意。
The new public space created along the Long’en Canal
gives the public a place to enjoy sunshine, gentle breezes
and the sound of gently flowing water.
dance moves to the sound of music, and children run

about laughing.
Within the open oval space there was once the site
of bronze statues of political figures and a clock tower
erected by the Lions Club. In 1999 architect Jay Chiu
renovated the plaza. This included removing unneces-
sarystructuresandreconnectingpedestrianflowtothe
area within the roundabout, a lonely island surrounded
by traffic, by constructing an underground passage to
the nearby Hsin chu Moat Park. “My design was in-
tended to ease pedestrian access to this historic space,
thus letting the old and new mingle,” says Chiu.
Since the plaza’s renovation people have easy ac-
cess to the historic site. Chiu’s design also lowered the
ground level in the center of the plaza, lending it the ap-
pearance of a Roman amphitheater. The historic site thus
became a stage on which visitors played the lead roles.
In another part of the city, the Long’en Canal, a
feature of Hsinchu for more than three centuries, un-
derwent renovations from FieldofficeArchitects. They
made subtle changes to the canal that made it once
again a more visible part of the city.
“The city was in need of more walking space,” says
Yu Tsai-yu of Fieldoffice. They therefore enlarged the
embankments to at least four meters in width and lev-
eled the surface, creating a safe place for walking and
other activities.
By connecting the walking paths on opposite sides
of the canal, the architects were able to provide access
tolanes,shopsandschoolsthatwereoncecutofffrom
each other.
Comparing today’s canal with maps from the Jap- place to get away from the hustle and bustle. The canal
anese colonial era, its route has hardly changed at all. provides a green space for people to stroll and chat, get
With this history in mind, Yu took care to create extra lost in their thoughts and enjoy the solitude.
opportunities for people walking the path to approach This age-old city’s future will be shaped not by idle
and cross the waterway, and to view it from many dif- dreams but by the combined efforts of those creating
ferent perspectives. change. And the change they seek is an even brighter
“Young architects strive for minimalist designs,” tomorrow. l
explains architect Huang Sheng yuan, Field office’s (Cathy Teng/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
founder. In a frenetic urban environment people need a tr. by Robert Green)
97
藝文脈絡　CULTURAL TRENDS
南迴地景再想像
Reimagining the Nanhui Landscape:

The “Hidden South” Art Project
文•蘇俐穎　圖•莊坤儒　版面設計•王敬勛

傳聞有9個太陽的南迴，陽光終年熱
辣。今（2018）年5月，由台東縣政府啟
動的「南方以南——南迴藝術計畫」，邀
請到20位藝術家走進太麻里、金鋒、達
仁、大武，藉饒富文化對話的藝術創作行
動，標誌出南迴地景的座標，吸引人前往
這片陌生的土地，探索島嶼之南，猶存在
的另一南方。
狹長的南迴四鄉，混居著排灣、阿美、
魯凱等原住民族，以及少數的閩客族群。
地貌層層疊疊，民情、風俗、語言劇烈變
換，每一個村落，都像具體而微的城國。
P eople joke that the Nan hui region has

nine suns, for it is bathed in searing sun-
shine the whole year round. When the Taitung
County Government inaugurated its “The
Hidden South” arts project in May 2018, it
invited 20 artists to sojourn in the county’s
four southernmost townships and to place
this region on the map by creating works that
engage in dialogue with its cultural riches.
The county hopes the program will raise the
area’s profile and draw visitors to this largely
undiscovered part of southern Taiwan.
The four townships of Taimali, Jinfeng, Da

ren, and Dawu, at the southern end of Taitung
County, are home to a diverse mix of peoples,
including indigenous Pai wan, Amis, and Ru
kai, as well as smaller numbers of the Minnan
and Hakka ethnicities that dominate Taiwan’s
population overall. Visitors traversing this rug
ged landscape experience rapid and dramatic
changes of customs and languages, with each
new village almost its own nation. These town
ships are part of the area that has come to be
99
來自菲律賓、泰國、義大利、法國，以及台辦，更遑論藝術計畫。尤其，對於基礎建設仍待
灣的海內外藝術家，一半經由台東縣政府公開徵發展的偏鄉來說，並未準備好要迎接蜂擁而來的
選，另一半經由執行單位「山冶計畫」主動邀觀光人潮。
約，相繼踏入這一幅紋理繁複的風景，藉由一個因此，打從計畫伊始，林怡華就不以商業效益
月以上的長期駐點，與社區居民開展出深刻且持作為主要考量。散落在人跡罕至的山麓、海濱、
續性的對話，再投入個人創作。郊村中的作品，毫不遷就遊客在交通上的便利
面對不同族群的高度歧異，以及以排灣族為主性，為的就是鼓勵大家造訪那些平時少有契機前
的原民文化，策展人林怡華說：「包括我，都必往的地方；行銷上，少了以推廣作品為主的宣傳
須先放下策展的觀念；藝術家也必須放掉自己的策略，而以50場以上富有教育性質的文化活動取
創作主張，才能受到在地的影響、啟發。」這批代。換言之，為沉寂的南迴搭建起一座座對外聯
作品，如同部落裡的小米，紮紮實實、「土生土絡的橋梁，才是這一次策展的立意所在。
長」。因此，這一次的藝術計畫扭轉多數策展「為
藝術服務」的主軸。台北市立美術館館長林平指
20件作品，20座通往南迴的橋梁
出，在這項計畫裡，藝術是媒介，而非最終的目
雖然國內近年不乏商業色彩濃厚的大型節慶活標，透過藝術家長期駐紮後產生的創作，除了作
動，也在短期內創造出可觀的經濟效益；或者有品本身傳遞出許多訊息，甚至可能擾動當地社
如日本越後妻有的「大地藝術祭」，將公共藝術區，「這樣的作品，甚至會讓接觸到的人改變想
視為催動地方發展的引擎，帶動地方觀光發展。法、產生關係。」林平說。
但林怡華認為，由於計畫的資金來源，來自過去至多被單車騎士視為環島必經之路的南
於南迴道路拓寬計畫的回饋金，初衷便是希望回迴，若能藉此吸引到更多人到此留步、停駐，對
饋地方文化發展；加上在地過去罕見大型活動舉於這一次的計畫來說，已然足夠。 l
昔日是大武轉運站
的南方以南服務
站，乘載著居民送
往迎來的回憶，彩
虹一般的裝置藝
術，為空間重新染
上色彩。
Occupying the old
Dawu bus station,
the “Hidden South”
service center is filled
with memories of
comings and goings.
This rainbow-like
work of installation
art paints the space
in new hues.

known as “Nanhui” because it lies along the route of 南迴居民以原住民為主，南島文化隨處可見。
Most Nanhui residents are Taiwanese Aborigines, and
the South Link Highway (nanhui gonglu)—the portion elements of Austronesian culture abound.
of Provincial Highway 9 that links the road networks of
Eastern and Western Taiwan by crossing the southern
end of the Central Mountain Range between the coun
ties of Taitung and Pingtung. Link Highway widening project, and was intended
The artists involved in the Taitung County Govern to support cultural development in the area. But she
ment’s “The Hidden South” project hail from the also notes that the region has rarely hosted largescale
Philippines, Thailand, Italy, France, and Taiwan itself. events, much less arts programs, and its rural infrastruc
Half were chosen by the county via an open selection ture isn’t up to the task of handling hordes of visitors.
process, while the other half were invited to participate Lin therefore chose from the outset to make her pri
by the project’s administrator, Mt. Project. Arriving in mary focus noncommercial. She scattered the works
succession in this textured terrain, each spent more than across sparsely populated terrain—foothills, coastland,
a month engaging in deep and sustained dialogues with and rural villages—that is not particularly easy for
residents before starting work on their individual pieces. visitors to get to, aiming to encourage visits to outof
The resultant works are truly local products, as tied to theway places. The project’s marketing didn’t promote
the area as the millet grown in the villages themselves. the works either, instead focusing on more than 50 cul
Twenty works, 20 bridges to Nanhui tural activities with an educational dimension. In other
Over the last few years, Taiwan has become home to words, the project set out to build bridges connecting
a large number of commercially oriented arts festivals. lonely Nanhui to the outside world.
These typically deliver a shortterm economic boost, or, Cyclists generally view the South Link Highway as a
like Japan’s EchigoTsumari Art Triennial, aim to pro mustsee stretch of road on a trip around the island. The
mote local economic development and tourism through project’s planners decided that their endeavor would be
public art. a success if it were able to build on this interest by get
Eva Lin, who runs Mt. Project and curated The Hid ting more people to pause on their journeys. l
den South, says that the funding for the project came (Lynn Su/photos by Chuang Kung-ju/
from the community improvement budget of the South tr. by Scott Williams)
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消弭二元性 Dissolving dualities
作品巡遊．大地饗宴
南迴的人口組成九成以上都是排灣 More than 90% of Nanhui’s residents are

族，受當地影響的作品自然饒富原民色 indigenous Paiwan, so it’s only natural that
彩。原住民將藝術融於生活，極富創造 works influenced by the local environment
would be infused with an indigenous flavor.
力、啟發性的日常行動，以及與萬物相
The way that Taiwanese Aborigines incor-
融一體的獨特思維，啟發不少藝術家的
porate art into their lives, their creativity and
創作。夢境╱現實、人造╱自然、傳說 inspiration in carrying out their daily activi-
╱真實的分野相繼打破，世界被賦予新 ties, and their view of themselves as a part
意，靈感與想像源源不絕，生活本身就 of the natural world rather than distinct from
是行動中的藝術。 it, inspired many of the project’s artworks.
Selected Hidden South artworks
山冶計畫提供 courtesy of Mt. Project
夢啟酒 Dream Inspired Millet Wine
黃博志╱計畫型作品╱安朔部落美美健康坊
原住民視夢境為真實的存在，也是日常生活的重要依歸；夢的自由狀態，貼近藝術的本質。卡加日坂家
族的頭目包顏華擁有預知夢的能力，藝術家黃博志運用頭目經營的「美美健康坊」作為展場，透過既有
的空間陳設，搭配攝影、書寫與霓虹燈管等配置，混淆現實，重新召喚夢境的模樣。走進這裡，與頭目
攀談，喝一杯祖靈託夢指點過的小米酒，就猶如走進頭目的夢。
Huang Po-chih / planned artwork / Mei-Mei Health Salon, Aljungic Village
Dreams share art’s freewheeling nature, but Taiwan’s indigenous people also view dreams as practical and
important guides to waking life. Dawan Katjadrepan, chief of the Kacalpan clan, interprets dreams, so artist
Huang Po-chih incorporated photos, text, and neon lighting into Dawan Katjadrepan’s Mei-Mei Health Salon to
distance it from the real world and evoke her dreamscapes.

名字嗎？我有很多個 My Name? I Have a Lot of Names
吳思嶔╱多媒體裝置╱大鳥溪畔
流傳在各個原住民族之間的矮黑人傳說，雖然缺乏可考的歷史文獻佐
證，但在耆老歷歷如繪的描述下，仍是族人共享的記憶亮點。藝術家吳
思嶔的作品，選擇放置在大鳥部落旁、傳聞中的矮黑人遺址附近，遊客
可以下載App「My name? I have a lot of names.」，掃描藝術品上的
QR Code，透過AR技術重新召喚矮黑族現身，體驗傳說與真實交融。
Wu Sih-chin / mixed-media installation / bank of the Daniao Creek
Many of Nanhui’s indigenous villages relate legends of the “Black Dwarfs,”
dark-skinned people of short stature that some anthropologists speculate
may have been a Negrito people. While there is no reliable evidence that
this people ever existed, the village elders’ vivid descriptions of them have
shaped the collective memory of the region’s indigenous peoples. Artist Wu
Sih-chin sited his work on the bank of the Daniao Creek near ruins reputed
to have belonged to the Negritos. Visitors who have downloaded an app
called “My Name? I Have a Lot of Names” can scan a QR code on the
artwork to call up an augmented reality overlay that integrates the legendary
into the real and brings the Negritos back to life.
游文富╱立體裝置╱下南田海濱
從自然取材的竹材，經過大自然的洗滌，呈現出深淺不一的色澤，交錯起
伏的紋路，仿擬海風、浪濤的造型。自然的力量不受人造建築的限制，師
法自然的人造藝術品，揭露自然力量無孔不入的特質，突破水泥堤防的侷
限，跨越到海的另一端，寫下人造與自然相互辯證的張力。
Yu Wen-fu / 3D installation / coast at Xianantian
Woven from natural bamboo strips, the work echoes the ocean winds and
waves. But human structures cannot contain natural forces. By imitating
Nature, this manmade work highlights Nature’s omnipresence, transcends the
constraints of concrete seawalls, reaches out across the ocean, and evokes
南方向量 Vector of the South the dialectical tension between the natural and the manmade.
103
全方位五感體驗 A complete sensory experience
除了常見的雕塑、裝置藝術、塗鴉、 In addition to the more common silent forms of

攝影等靜態藝術，藝術家同時訴諸聽覺， art like sculpture, installations, graffiti, and photo-
使用聲音紀錄、音樂演出，或者運用科技 graphs, the artists also worked with sound, using

recordings, musical performances, and techno-
工具，以AR（擴增實境）、VR（虛擬實
logical tools such as augmented and virtual reality
境）創造動態體驗，不少藝術品更延伸舉
to create complete sensory experiences. Some
辦文化學習課程。藉由視覺、味覺、聲景 even developed cultural education classes. Mixing
與地景方方面面地交融，全方位傳遞出地 sight, taste, soundscapes and landscapes, they cre-
方蘊含的豐饒訊息。 ated rich and comprehensive depictions of place.
海生月民間譚 Moon Rising on the Sea
楊雨樵╱表演藝術╱台九線大武濱海公園海灘
邱承宏創作的〈陽台〉，突兀地降落在空曠的大武海濱沙灘。說唱藝術家楊雨樵，在陽台前講述世界各國與海
相關的民間謠傳。說書人起伏有致的聲腔，與部落裡盛行的口傳文化相互指涉。後方一輪明月從黝暗的海平面
上緩緩浮升，看似封閉的南迴，透過大海，連結廣大的世界。
Somanana Rain / performance art / Dawu Coast Park
Shuochang artist Somanana Rain shared folk tales about the relationship between the world’s nations and the sea from in
front of Chiu Chen-hung’s installation The Balcony on the wide beach at Dawu. Somanana Rain related the stories using
an undulating delivery that harkened back to the oral culture of the local villages. Behind him, the moon slowly rose over
the dark ocean, giving a sense of the seemingly isolated Nanhui region connecting to the rest of the world via the sea.

移動的景緻‧奔流熱舞樂 Moving Scenery, Streaming Summer
李世揚╱表演藝術╱南迴線普快車3672
即將退役的藍皮普快車3672，是傳統的柴油列車，車廂內沒有冷
氣，只有吊頂的風扇，伴隨著鳴笛、柴油煙味，復古味十足。恰好
行經南迴四鄉的普快車，從太麻里到大武40分鐘的車程，成為即
興鋼琴家李世揚的演出舞台，他從排灣古調改編成容易為現代人理
解的新曲，同時結合說唱、舞蹈，融合成大地上飛馳的魔幻風景。
Lee Shih-yang / performance art / South Link Line, Train 3672
Train 3672, which is soon to be withdrawn from service, passes
through Taitung’s Nanhui townships on its journey from Taitung City to
Fangliao in Pingtung, traveling from Taimali to Dawu in roughly 40 min-
utes. The diesel-hauled train is one of the last in Taiwan still to use the
1970s-era blue-and-white railcars, which have no air-conditioning but
instead rely on ceiling fans for cooling. The sound of the train’s horn,
the smell of the diesel and the whir of the fans make for a highly nos-
talgic atmosphere. For this work, the train served as a stage for pianist
Lee Shih-yang, who adapted an old Paiwan melody into a new piece
more suited to modern ears. The work as a whole combined shuo-
chang (folk storytelling with a rhythmic accompaniment) and dance with
a trip across the local landscape to create something magical.
洄游音樂聚 Migratory music gathering
文化學習活動╱土坂部落新興橋下
活動以地勢隱密的土坂部落作為據點，仿擬原鄉的傳統生活。先由共煮共食原味午餐開始；午後一同學習製作花
環、藤球、紙鎮等傳統工藝；夜晚，學員聚集在河岸旁，不同族群、不同國家的音樂家輪番演出。除了外地遊
客，半數以上都是部落族人前來參與，這一場高度私密的活動，復刻了部落昔日生活的甜美，林怡華說：「就像
所有人都重新回到孩子的狀態。」
Cultural education event / Tjuabal Village, beneath the Xinxing Bridge
The event, which replicated aspects of traditional life, was held by the Dazhu Creek in secluded Tjuabal Village. It began with
a collectively prepared communal lunch, followed in the afternoon by instruction in traditional crafts, including the making
of flower garlands, paperweights, and rattan balls. In the evening the participants, more than half of them village residents,
gathered on the riverbank to hear musicians of different ethnicities and nationalities take turns performing. The very intimate
gathering concentrated the pleasures of days gone by, offering, as Eva Lin puts it, “a return to childhood for everyone there.”
山冶計畫提供 courtesy of Mt. Project
105
回饋在地文化 Giving back to local culture
計畫強調以南迴四鄉為 Taitung’s four Nanhui townships are them-

selves the focus of the project, so the partici-
主體，藝術家先聆聽在地需
pating artists had to learn about communities’
求，再回應地景。所有的作
needs before crafting their responses. All the
品，是對南迴深情的凝視， works look deeply into local feelings and are a
也是一趟奇妙相遇的饋贈。 wonderful gift to the region.
在屾 Rebirth
豪華朗機工╱立體裝置╱大鳥休憩站旁的濱海公路地
2016年的尼伯特風災，摧毀台東多處荖葉園，以跨界聞名的豪華朗機工，在廢墟裡看見天然
災害的啟示。團隊擇荖葉園中頹圮的鋼筋水泥作為創作素材，不再產生額外的浪費，鏤空的
山形，帶有幾分虧欠之意。這一場人為的造山運動，想以人造的山景填回已然失去的山景。
Luxury Logico / installation / beside Dawu Recreation Area
In 2016, Typhoon Nepartak devastated many of Taitung’s betel leaf plantations. When the Luxury
Logico art collective viewed the results of the disaster, they collected some of the broken steel rebar
and concrete from the ruins. By using this debris as the raw material for their own artwork, the collective
avoided creating additional waste. The openwork mountain shape of their piece suggests a lack, the
manmade mountain scene standing in for real mountain scenes that have been lost to development.

Vuvu & Vuvu Vuvu & Vuvu
戴克斯特•菲南德╱彩繪漆╱大武國中
出於南島語族的共通性，林怡華特別邀請多位東
南亞藝術家參與計畫。菲律賓藝術家戴克斯特•菲
南德遠道而來，進駐南迴2個月，將期間的閱歷、
遭遇到的人事物，結合他慣用的塗鴉符碼，繪製
於大武國中活動中心的牆面。壁畫猶如一幅巨大
的拼貼畫，沒有明確視覺的起點與終點，扣合排
灣族將阿嬤與小孩都稱為「Vuvu」，生生不息的
哲學觀。
Dexter Fernandez / painting / Dawu Junior High School
Inspired by a shared Austronesian cultural heritage, Eva
Lin made a point of inviting Southeast-Asian artists to
participate in the project. Filipino artist Dexter Fernandez
spent two months in Nanhui, combining his experiences
with the people he met there and the region itself into
the graffiti-like painting he created on an exterior wall of
the Dawu Junior High School activity center. The work re-
sembles a giant collage. Echoing the Paiwan word vuvu,
which means both “grandmother” and “grandchild,” the
work has no obvious visual starting or ending point and
suggests a profound connectedness between all things.
Ina的記憶花園 Ina’s Garden of Memory
謝聖華╱展演性計畫╱南方以南服務站
與自然相依的原住民，保有與自然互動的豐富
文化。藝術家謝聖華運用台灣原生種植物，以
及原住民常食用的野菜，在南方以南服務站，
打造出一座室內花園。花圈的概念，源於排灣
文化常見的花環頭飾，對性情內斂的排灣族來
說，花環不只是單純裝飾物，不同的植物與編
織方式，暗藏了不同部落、家族的身分線索；
贈與對方花環，也帶有祝福之意，是族人之間
無須言明的傳情之物。
Cudjuy Malijugau / exhibition project / Hidden
South service center
Taiwan’s indigenous peoples retain a rich culture
closely connected to the natural world. Finding
inspiration in the floral wreaths of Taiwan’s Paiwan
people, artist Cudjuy Malijugau created an indoor
garden at the Hidden South project’s service center
using native plants, including herbs often used by
Taiwan’s Aboriginal peoples. The wreaths are more
than mere adornment to the reserved Paiwan, with
the choice of plants and the pattern of the weave
offering clues to the wearer’s village and clan. The
gift of a wreath also represents the giver’s good
wishes for the recipient, and serves as a nonverbal
expression of love.
107
產業新創　ENTREPRENEURSHIP
茹苦含辛廿年
山苦瓜的蛻變文•曾蘭淑　圖•林格立　版面設計•王敬勛
Twenty Years of Bitter Labor

—The Transformation of the Bitter Melon
花蓮農改場的採種圃內，有幾十種從全球蒐集來的苦瓜品種。
The seed nursery at the Hualien District Agricultural Research and Extension
Station has tens of varieties of bitter melon collected from around the world.

明代《本草綱目》記載：「苦瓜，
苦、寒、無毒，除邪熱，解勞乏，清
心明目。」花蓮農改場歷經20年辛苦
的田間試驗，育出「花蓮1至7號」品
種，讓山苦瓜不只是餐桌上的一道配
菜，在現代科技萃取、純化技術的助
力下，由生技公司與有機農場開發出
多樣機能性的保健食品，讓山苦瓜不
只苦，而且補。
「這是今天的新娘子，你看『她』顏
T
色最豔麗，花苞最黃，可以選她授粉。
he encyclopedic Ming-Dynasty Com-
授粉後，明天開始慢慢長成苦瓜，15天
pendium of Materia Medica states:
後即可瓜熟蒂落。」 “Bitter melon is bitter, cold, and non-toxic;
10月的秋老虎豔陽照著網室，高達 it can relieve unhealthy heat and exhaus-
30度溫度，讓網室變成名副其實的「溫 tion from overwork, and can relieve fever
室」，農委會花蓮區農業改良場（以下 and improve eyesight.” Through 20 years
簡稱「花改場」）作物改良課副研究員 of arduous field experiments, the Hualien
District Agricultural Research and Exten-
全中和上班第一件事，就是來到他的秘
sion Station has bred seven varieties of
密基地「採種圃」，為他的山苦瓜「母
bitter melon (Momordica charantia). And
本」進行授粉與採種工作。
bitter melon is no longer just a side dish
on the dining table: with the help of mod-
世界無敵的苦瓜母本
ern extraction and purification techniques,
全中和單手扶起一條鮮綠的藤蔓說 biotechnology companies and organic
著：「這是高雌花母本，是我們台灣的 farmers have used it to develop numerous
寶貝。」 functional health supplements.
一般的品種，一株苦瓜藤蔓開出的
“This is today’s ‘bride.’ You can see that she
100朵花中，大約只會開出2至10朵雌
has the most beautiful color and the yellowest
花，即結2至10個果實；但這株經由自
buds, so we have chosen her for pollination.
交純化超過5個世代的「高雌花性」的 After she is pollinated, starting tomorrow bit-
苦瓜藤蔓，100朵花中，卻可開出高達 ter melons will gradually begin to grow, and
80∼90朵雌花。 after 15 days the gourds will be ripe.”
109
換算成產量，尊敬之心油然而生。因為原本的品系純化、篩選、雜交後才得到優良的品種，
一個產季每公頃約1公噸的產量，可以增加6至10 1.5個月的採收期，每公頃的產量可以達14公噸。
公噸，產量大大提升，再看看此株珍貴的苦瓜藤花蓮6號強調鮮果食用功能，果實呈現漸層的
蔓，眼睛也跟著發亮起來。鮮綠，豔澤透亮，口感脆爽，略帶蘋果酸口感，
稍微冰鎮後去除苦味，適合作為生食用的沙拉、
山苦瓜的前世今生
精力湯等各式料理。
苦瓜在《本草綱目》裡又稱錦荔枝或癩葡萄。我們來到種植花蓮2號、6號的奇萊美地有機農
80年代花蓮山海產店提供野生山苦瓜炒鹹蛋、苦場，總經理蔡志峰指出：「花改場育種的苦瓜產
瓜鑲肉等料理，讓遊客嚐鮮。花蓮農改場1989年開量相當高，採收期時，每週採收一次，例如2分地
始投入研究山苦瓜品種改良與栽培技術的改進，每天即可採收1公噸。我們目前有三十多公頃經過
加上台灣農地愈來愈少，農民愈來愈老，研發出有機認證的農場，除了供應餐廳、超市，還有接
產量高、品種好的苦瓜，可以增加農民的收入。受生技公司契作苦瓜，因為苦瓜必須經過無農藥
全中和1996年開始進行苦瓜的育種，2005年起殘留的檢測，才能做為保健與藥品的材料。」
連著3年研發出的「花蓮苦瓜1、2、3號」，均是蔡志峰所經營的立川漁場餐廳，是遊客來到花
結果力強，並且針對小家庭食用的「中小果」，蓮摸蜆玩水的著名景點，餐廳即提供苦瓜茶與苦
身長大約一支原子筆長，體重約160公克，大約瓜冰沙，最識貨的是帶團的導遊，每次一下車先
只有白色大苦瓜三分之一的重量，在生鮮超市十來一杯苦瓜冰沙，生津止渴。
分受歡迎。
「花蓮6號」則是2016年開發出的品種，「父
母親」（即母本與公本）均是來自花蓮土生土長山苦瓜可以切片做精力湯，可以烘乾做成苦瓜茶。
Bitter melon can be juiced, or can be sliced and dried to be used
的苦瓜，這是全中和從1998年開始經過10年不斷 to make bitter melon tea.

In the bright sunshine of October’s Indian summer, began to work on improving bitter melon varieties and
the temperature in the net greenhouse reaches 30°C, cultivation techniques, to boost farmers’ incomes.
turning it into a genuine “hothouse.” When Chyuan Chyuan Jong-ho began breeding bitter melons in 1996,
Jong-ho, associate researcher in the Crop Improvement and over three years from 2005 he completed develop-
Section at the Hualien District Agricultural Research and ment of the Hualien Nos. 1, 2, and 3 varieties, all of which
Extension Station (HDARES) of the Council of Agricul- are high-fruiting cultivars. Moreover, they produce small-
ture, gets to work each day, the first thing he does is to to-medium-sized gourds, suitable for small families.
come to his seed nursery, where he pollinates his bitter About as long as a pen and weighing some 160 grams
melon “mother plants” and harvests seeds from them. (one-third the weight of the larger white bitter melon),
World-beating mother plants they are a very popular vegetable in supermarkets.
Lifting up part of a bright green vine with one hand, Chyuan completed development of Hualien No. 6 in
Chyuan declares: “This mother plant has a high propor- 2016. The male and female parent stock were all drawn
tion of female flowers. It is a treasure of Taiwan.” from bitter melon varieties native to Hualien. This is an
In most varieties of bitter melon, out of every 100
flowers that a melon vine produces, only about two to ten
are female flowers, which means you will get between 高雌花母本的山苦瓜藤，開出豔黃的花朵。
two and ten gourds. But on this vine, which has been Beautiful yellow flowers bloom on this bitter melon vine, a
“mother plant” that produces a high ratio of female flowers.
through more than five generations of self-fertilization to
increase the ratio of female flowers, 80–90% of the flow-
ers will be female.
When you calculate the effect on production, you can’t
help but feel admiration. For while traditional varieties
yield around one metric ton of melons per hectare in each
growing season, the new figure could be six to ten tons.
Bitter melons past and present
In the 1980s, game and seafood restaurants in Hua-
lien prepared such dishes as bitter melon with salted
egg and bitter melon stuffed with minced pork to enable
visitors to try fresh bitter melon. In 1989, the HDARES
花蓮農改場副研究員全中和
辛勤育種山苦瓜，開闢山苦
瓜多樣的經濟價值。
HDARES associate researcher
Chyuan Jong-ho has devoted
huge efforts to bitter melon
breeding, boosting the plant’s
economic value in diverse ways.
111
在國科會國家型計畫的支持下，學術單位紛紛
山苦瓜的蛻變
針對「苦瓜萃取物」進行研究，在製程、保健功
然而全中和辛苦為苦瓜育種，除供食用，還有能累計已申請超過46種專利。
一特殊的原因，是為了研究單位的需要。例如國立屏東科技大學生物科技研究所教授鄭
原來國科會2005至2011年執行「農業生物技術雪玲長達10年的研究發現，從「花蓮2號」與類
國家型計畫」，邀請台灣大學、中國醫藥大學等似沖繩綠山苦瓜的藤與果實中，純化出三萜類化
學術單位，進行山藥、金線蓮等作物研究，希望合物與皂苷成分，用在細胞與小鼠實驗上，均有
能開發成中草藥與健康食品， 2006年起將苦瓜納改善細胞對胰島素抗性的作用，顯示苦瓜具有開
入，進行調整血糖、降血脂與抗癌的研究。而研發為第二型糖尿病保健食品的潛力。
究單位每次要拿苦瓜作中草藥實驗，從市場買到慈濟大學生命科學所教授徐雪瑩10年來利用苦
的苦瓜，因為品種與來源都不一樣，有時有效，瓜萃取物與純化物進行癌症細胞株的研究，結果
有時沒有效，影響研究的效度與信度。顯示特定成分對癌細胞的生長有生長抑制效果。
全中和說，這是因為苦瓜是異交作物，農民自但徐雪瑩強調，預防勝於治療，吃綠苦瓜需在日
行留種，品種混雜，再雜交後，後代植株會產生常生活保健裡落實才有助益，如果到了癌症末期
性狀分離，果實便會大小參差不齊，形狀多變。才吃就太晚了。
因此花蓮農改場也在研究單位的要求下，提供相國科會國家型計畫研發團隊的成果，可以說照
同品種、相同產期與基質穩定的苦瓜，作為研究亮了山苦瓜的未來，讓山苦瓜在研發成保健產品
之用。的選擇中，成為績優潛力股，大大拉抬了山苦瓜
作為產業作物的身價。花改場研發團隊因此朝向
研發「保健型」山苦瓜方向來育種。
尤其是全中和團隊在2008年獲得品種權的「花蓮
4號」、2010年開發的5號，是花改場自2002年即開
始培育的品系，「矮、肥、短」身形，「尖銳突
起」深綠色的果面，有些「其貌不揚」。但真是
「瓜不可貌相」，經過食品工業發展研究所等機
構的檢驗，這兩號苦瓜適合開發作為保健食品。
全中和說，花蓮4、5號具有「雜種優勢」，就
是一般人所說「混血的第一代都比較聰明」，果
實產量高又營養。
風雨搶救，後代爭氣
特別的是，4、5號的母本有著從風雨中逃生
的經歷。全中和說，花蓮每年都有颱風，有一年
颱風把種苗圃裡的苦瓜苗吹得七零八落，颱風
過後，工友自然把吹斷的藤蔓當成垃圾丟掉。
寰宇生技公司總經理劉技謀利用「超臨界萃取」技術，開發
出各式山苦瓜的保健食品。
Dr. Davis Liu, general manager of Aquavan Technology, notes
that the company uses “supercritical fluid extraction” technology
to develop all kinds of bitter melon health supplements.

outstanding cultivar that Chyuan only got after ten years
of continual line purification, selection and hybridization
starting in 1998. It has a harvest season of six to seven
weeks, and yields up to 14 tons of gourds per hectare.
Hualien No. 6 is best eaten raw. The gourd shows
graduated layers of bright green, with a lustrous exte-
rior, a crisp texture, and a hint of malic acid in the taste.
The bitter flavor is removed by briefly cooling the sliced
melon in ice water. It is suitable for salads made with raw
ingredients, for juicing, and for various cooked dishes.
We come to Chi-Lai Green Land organic farm, where
Hualien No. 2 and No. 6 bitter melons are grown. Gen-
eral manager Cai Zhifeng observes: “The yields of the
寰宇生技公司檢測契作苦瓜的品質與純度分析。
Aquavan Technology tests the quality and purity of bitter melons
grown by farmers under contract.
深綠色的「花蓮4號」，身形矮、肥、短，味道十分深苦，
適合開發保健食品。（全中和提供）
The deep green “Hualien No. 4” bitter melon variety, which is
short and plump in shape and has a very bitter taste, is suitable
for developing health supplements. (courtesy of Chyuan Jong-ho)
stitutions, including National Taiwan University and

China Medical University, to research crops like yam and
Taiwan jewel orchid in hopes of developing herbal medi-
cines and health supplements. Bitter melon was included
bitter melon varieties bred by the HDARES are quite in the program starting in 2006, when studies began into
high. During harvest season we pick them once a week, its potential for modulating blood sugar levels, reducing
and, for example, on 2,000 square meters of land we can hyperlipidemia, and combating cancer. However, because
harvest one ton each week. Right now we have more the varieties and sources of the bitter melons that research
than 30 hectares of land with organic certification. Be- institutions purchased at vegetable markets for their ex-
sides supplying restaurants and supermarkets, we also periments were inconsistent, sometimes the extracts were
produce bitter melon under contract for biotechnology efficacious, and sometimes they were not, thereby impact-
companies.” ing the validity and reliability of the research.
Bitter melon transformation Therefore at the request of the research institutions,
Indeed, the purpose of Chyuan Jong-ho’s arduous the HDARES began supplying them with bitter melons
efforts in breeding bitter melons has not been merely to of reliable quality, of the same variety, and grown and
produce varieties for eating, but also especially to meet harvested at the same time, for their research.
the needs of research institutions. With the support of the NSC program, academic insti-
It all started when the National Science Council be- tutions have done a great deal of research on substances
gan implementing the National Science and Technology extracted from bitter melon, and have already been
Program for Agricultural Biotechnology, which ran from granted more than 46 patents with respect to production
2005 to 2011. At first they invited various academic in- processes and health effects.
113
「但我那夜入睡後，在半夢半醒之間，忽然想到取」技術，萃取、純化花蓮4號的成分，已經開
那株藤蔓應該還活著！」未等至天明，全中和趕發出各式增加身體機能的保健食品，行銷至美國
到苗圃，果真這株藤苗還未被清理掉，把它救回與大陸，同時還進行苦瓜藥品的開發與實驗，而
來後，經過可遇不可求的異交過程，成為花蓮4 且目前正在申請美國食品藥物局（FDA）核淮，
號與5號的母本，「高雌花母本」不但沒有從世以及全球專利布局的階段。
界消失，反而為花改場拿到至少數百萬元的授權花改場又培育出最新的「花蓮7號」白苦瓜，
金，培育出很爭氣的後代。還在向農委會申請品種權中。累計至今，花蓮
拿到花蓮4號品種專屬授權的寰宇生技公司， 1-6號已經技術轉移給13家農場與生技公司，將
總經理劉技謀博士指出，他們利用「超臨界萃苦瓜開發成苦瓜滴雞精、苦瓜籽油、苦瓜茶、

For example, in ten years of research Cheng Hsueh-ling, a profes-
sor in the Department of Biological Science and Technology at Na-
tional Pingtung University of Science and Technology, discovered
through experiments on cell cultures and on mice that triterpenoids
and saponins purified from the vines and fruit of Hualien No. 2 and
the similar Okinawa bitter melon can reduce insulin resistance in
cells, indicating that bitter melon has the potential to be developed
into a health supplement to combat Type 2 diabetes.
Meanwhile Professor Hsu Hsue-yin of the Department of Life
Sciences at Tzu Chi University has for the past ten years been us-
ing substances extracted from bitter melon for research on cancer
cell lines. She has discovered that a certain ingredient has the effect
of inhibiting growth of cancer cells.
The results achieved by research teams under the NSC pro-
gram suggest a bright future for the bitter melon. This is why the
HDARES research team has focused its development efforts on
breeding “health-protecting” bitter melon varieties.
This especially applies to Hua lien No. 4, for which Chyuan
Jong-ho’s team was granted plant variety rights in 2008, and No. 5,
which they completed development of in 2010. Both are varieties
that the HDARES began to breed in 2002. Though unprepossessing
in appearance—with their fat and short shape, and dark green skin
with a knobbly, serrated surface—they both prove that “you can’t
tell a gourd by its cover.” Tests by the Food Industry Research and
Development Institute and other bodies have shown that these
奇萊美地有機農場總經理蔡志峰，所
two bitter melon varieties are suitable for development into health
種植花蓮２、６號苦瓜，無農藥殘
留，可以生吃作沙拉，也可以做為保 supplements.
健與藥品的材料。 Chyuan says that Hualien No. 4 and No. 5 both display “heter-
The Hualien No. 2 and No. 6 bitter melon
varieties grown by the Chi-Lai Green osis” (a.k.a.“hybrid vigor”), which reminds one of the common say-
Land organic farm under the direction of
general manager Cai Zhifeng have no
ing that “the first generation of mixed-blood children are smarter.”
pesticide residues, so they can be eaten They are high-yielding varieties with high nutritional value.
raw in salads, and can also be used as
raw material for health supplements and Dr. Davis Liu, general manager of the Aquavan Technology
pharmaceuticals.
Company, which exclusively licensed plant variety rights for
Hualien No. 4, notes that the company uses “supercritical fluid
extraction” technology to extract substances from Hualien No.
4 and purify them. They have already developed various health
苦瓜膠囊，甚至還有美妝產品。 supplements that boost bodily functions, which they sell in the US
如果能將花蓮4號苦瓜開發成癌症 and mainland China. They have also developed and tested phar-
用藥，將創下台灣單一品種的本土植 maceutical products derived from bitter melon, for which they are
currently seeking approval from the US Food and Drug Adminis-
物作為植物性用藥的歷史，苦瓜的前
tration, as well as applying for patents worldwide.
途將是無可限量。
If it proves possible to develop an anti-cancer drug from the
全中和說，「我的夢想就是有朝一
Hualien No. 4 bitter melon, this will be a historic use of a native
日，山苦瓜能開發成抗癌的藥品，苦 plant as the basis for a plant-based medicine, and the future pros-
瓜便能像毛豆一樣，成為農委會眼中 pects for the bitter melon will be unbounded. l
農產品加工、外銷國際的模範生。」l (Esther Tseng/Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)
115
多元族群　COMMUNITIES
情留台灣的越薔薇
越語廣電主持人的心路歷程南
A Vietnamese Rose in Taiwan
—Tuong Vy’s Journey to Success
文•郭玉平　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•蕭郢岑
「我是來自越南的留學生。」曾經不敢如此
自我介紹的范瑞薔薇，現職廣播主持人，剛來台 “I am an international student from Vietnam.”
Now a radio host and reporter, when Pham
Thuy Tuong Vy first arrived in Taiwan, she went
灣時，歷經一段自我身分迷惘的歲月。
through a period where she lacked the confidence to
演出公視戲劇《別再叫我外籍新娘》是一個
even introduce herself this way.
契機，她慢慢看淡少數台灣人對「越南女性」的 Performing in the Public Television Service drama
異樣眼光；現在，范瑞薔薇充滿自信地說：「我 The Vietnamese Brides in Taiwan, though, gave her
是來自越南的薔薇。」發揮聲音甜美的特質與語 a means to get beyond the stereotypes a minority of
言專長，在台灣主持廣電節目及越南語教學，為 Taiwanese hold about Vietnamese women, and today
挪去台越文化之間的隔閡帷幕努力著。 she proudly introduces herself as “ Tuong Vy from
Vietnam.” With her sweet voice and linguistic skills,
she has now become a radio host and works to break
天賦美聲．天生主播 down the barriers between Taiwanese and Vietnam-
ese cultures.
范瑞薔薇擁有令人稱羨的甜美聲音與亮麗外型，
被稱為「新越南林志玲」、「越南范文芳」，面 A voice for radio
對媒體，她淺淺笑著說：「我覺得我像我自己。」 Tuong Vy has an enviably mellifluous voice and a face
除了廣播，她也活躍在公視、大愛電視台等電 to match. In addition to her radio work, she has made
視節目中，中文、越南語、台語都說得很標準的 appearances in programs on the Public Television Ser-
她，已經在台灣生活15年。會來台灣讀書是因為 vice (PTS) and Da’ai Television, making use of not only
her Vietnamese, but also the outstanding Mandarin and
小學開始對台灣連續劇著迷，由於早期越南電視
Taiwanese she has learned over her 15 years in Taiwan.
台的配音技術不成熟，無法完全覆蓋原音，所以
To learn Chinese, she read through the novels of Ei-
范瑞薔薇在若隱若現的原音台詞耳濡目染下，隨
leen Chang, as well as classics like Romance of the Three
口就能說上一兩句中文，或和同學一起哼唱台灣 Kingdoms and Dream of the Red Chamber. “I wanted to
連續劇《星星知我心》的插曲：「世上只有媽媽 learn Chinese well and quickly. Language is a key, and
好，有媽的孩子像個寶。」 if I couldn’t open the door, how could I go anywhere?”

117
對中文的熱愛持續加溫，她透過大量閱讀學習
中文，讀完一本本張愛玲小說、《三國演義》、
《紅樓夢》等經典書籍，「因為我要快速學好中
文，語言是一把鑰匙，如果打不開這個門，還能
去哪裡？」范瑞薔薇兩年內學習完一般人十年的
程度，迅速學會字正腔圓的中文。
「聲音」是上天給予她最美好的禮物，「我
很喜歡自己的聲音，也喜歡聽廣播。」范瑞薔薇
說，小時候會對著電風扇模仿廣播主持人說話，
天賦美聲，台風穩重，就像是天生的主播。在台
灣選擇大學科系時，也順理成章地選了廣播電視
學系。
別再叫我外籍新娘
范瑞薔薇回想起剛來台的心情，她認為大多數
的台灣人很和善，只有少數人會問：「妳是嫁來
台灣的嗎？」或是露出一種「多希望妳不是越南
人」的表情，久而久之，范瑞薔薇產生自我身分
認同的衝突，不喜歡與人談論到自己的國籍，若
被問是否來自香港或馬來西亞，都會敷衍地都回
范瑞薔薇主持的線上越南語教學節目《飛越世界
答：「是。」 GO》，是在台越南人學習中文的管道之一。
Tuong Vy’s online show teaching Vietnamese has also
18歲，正是艾瑞克森（Eric H. Erickson）「心 become a means for Vietnamese living in Taiwan to
learn Mandarin.
理社會發展理論」中，青少年探索自我認同的階
段，特別容易受到外界期待或批評等價值觀念的
影響。范瑞薔薇為自我身分煩惱所苦，同在台灣
留台工作的契機
的姊姊安慰她說：「妳要認同妳是越南人，我們
是越南人很好呀！妳那麼努力，認真去學中文，「認同自己、不要在意別人的眼光，先從自己
認真融入台灣的生活，為什麼沒有自信？」之改變，」范瑞薔薇相信只要努力、堅持、做到最
後，范瑞薔薇漸漸改變自己的想法，將這些曾讓好，以及為台灣社會付出，「有一天他們都會看
她難以應對的問題，變成她介紹越南、介紹自己見你的好，他們會改變對你的想法。」
的機會。范瑞薔薇認真充實自己，參加主持人培訓班、開
擁有自信，范瑞薔薇開始在台灣綻放花蕾。她發新穎的節目題材，幾乎將工讀生當正職在做，但
考上國立台灣藝術大學廣播電視學系，並演出公是在面臨大學畢業後的去留，仍充滿擔憂。
視連續劇《別再叫我外籍新娘》，以及在中央廣當年外籍生大學畢業後如要留在台灣工作，必
播電台（簡稱「央廣」）打工，錄製越南廣播節須符合兩個條件：2年工作經驗、從事月薪48,000
目。范瑞薔薇說：「那時候我已經慢慢看淡這些元以上的工作（勞動部自2012年已放寬門檻，大
歧視眼光與刻板印象，我覺得公視的劇本寫得很學應屆畢業外籍生可申請留在國內從事平均月薪
真實，就去演了。」為37,619元及以上的專門性或技術性工作，不須
由於不斷增強自信心，范瑞薔薇化解自我認同具有2年工作經驗），范瑞薔薇雖有2年經驗，但
的危機，以坦然的心面對沉重的劇本，也學會面高月薪的工作對一名大學應屆畢業生而言，極其
對社會少數人的目光。難尋。

Thanks to this hard work, in just two years she was able to the influence of external values. Tuong Vy’s older sister
to develop impeccable Chinese. was also in Taiwan at the time and understood what she
Gifted with a wonderful voice, Tuong Vy says that was going through. “You work so hard to integrate into
she was almost born to be a radio host—as a child she Taiwanese life, but why don’t you have any confidence
would even sit in front of the electric fan and imitate the in yourself? You should accept that you are Vietnamese.”
hosts she heard on the radio. Given this, it seems only Slowly but surely, Tuong Vy began to change her perspec-
natural that when she decided to study at college in Tai- tive, taking these questions that had once been so trou-
wan she would choose to major in radio and television. bling to her and turning her situation into an opportunity
Don’t call me a “foreign bride” to introduce herself and Vietnam to Taiwan.
While the majority of Taiwanese are very kind, there As her confidence returned, her life in Taiwan began
are always a small number of people who just have to to really blossom. She tested into the Department of Ra-
ask Tuong Vy if she came to Taiwan to marry a local. dio and Television at National Taiwan University of Arts,
Over time, assumptions like this led to her developing a landed a role in the PTS drama The Vietnamese Brides in Tai-
bit of a complex about her identity, not even wanting to wan, and began working part time at Radio Taiwan Interna-
mention her nationality to people. tional (RTI) producing programming for their Vietnamese
According to Erik Erikson’s stages of psychosocial service. With her identity crisis behind her, she was able to
development, the age of 18 is a time when young people tackle the somber PTS drama with a calm heart and learn
explore their identities and are particularly vulnerable to stand tall under the gaze of that discriminatory minority.
A chance to stay and work
Tuong Vy believes that if you work hard, stick at it, do
范瑞薔薇（右）與資深主播陳梅，合作主持線上越南 your best, and do your part for Taiwanese society, “One
語教學節目。
day they’ll change how they think about you and will look
Tuong Vy (right) and veteran TV host Chen Mei jointly
host an online show teaching the Vietnamese language. on you more kindly.”
119
她看著香港和馬來西亞的同學們一一回國，己的經驗。甚至，美國《時代》雜誌（TIME）
更是心煩意亂。一天，央廣的長官找她去談，原將#MeToo運動的「打破沉默者」（The Silence
來越南語導播早已向長官建議讓范瑞薔薇留在央 Breakers）選為2017年度風雲人物，呼籲人們正
廣，她的努力，長官們都有看見。范瑞薔薇放下視性侵和性騷擾的問題。
心中重擔，留在台灣主持廣播，也接下行腳節目范瑞薔薇第一份工作是在仲介公司擔任翻譯，
《越南腳步台灣行》的拍攝。與業務同事出差途中，遭到同事性騷擾，當時直
這個節目用最精簡的人力與經費製作，雖然台覺反應是自我檢討服裝儀容，但經反覆思考後，
灣與越南沒有邦交，但經過央廣一年半的努力，隔天決定向主管舉發惡狼同事。
以及外交部、駐台北越南經濟文化辦事處等單位如同其他打破沉默者所描述，范瑞薔薇說：
的協助，成為首部在越南電視台播出的台灣節「有些人會覺得自己做了什麼，才會讓對方性騷
目。范瑞薔薇說：「很多越南人看了節目才發現擾？不是，妳沒有做錯任何事，錯的是他們的
原來台灣那麼好玩，有些觀眾寫信說希望來台灣心態！」她呼籲女性要保護自己，如果真的遇到
旅遊。」成功將台灣行銷到越南家鄉。了，要勇於揭發他們的行為，#MeToo，「我也
是，但我絕不妥協」。
#MeToo. 永不妥協
情留台灣的紅薔薇
范瑞薔薇有段不願回首的回憶，但為了告訴其
他女性，勇敢說出「#MeToo（我也是）」。紅薔薇的花語是熱情奔放的愛戀，正如同范瑞
「#MeToo」是美國黑人女權運動者柏克在2006 薔薇對台灣的熱愛。她觀察到，台灣與越南人彼
年發起的「反性侵性騷擾運動」，好萊塢女星此越是不瞭解，越容易產生負面的觀感，她為了
在Twitter發起以「#MeToo」主題標籤鼓勵受害挪去台越文化之間的隔閡帷幕努力著。在台灣，
者發聲，全球各地的名人紛紛響應，勇敢說出自以身作則，認真工作，證明在台越南人也有很優
央廣越南語節目開
播65週年慶活動
中，范瑞薔薇挺著
9個月大的孕肚飾
演《西遊記》豬八
戒。（中央廣播電
台提供）
During the events
celebrating the
65th anniversary
of Radio Taiwan
International’s
Vietnamese service,
the nine-months-
pregnant Tuong Vy
plays the role of
Zhu Bajie (Pigsy)
in a performance
of an episode from
Journey to the West.
(courtesy of RTI)

不僅主持廣播，范瑞薔薇
也是電視台外景節目的
主持人。（大愛電視《在
台灣站起》節目提供）
Tuong Vy is not just a
radio and online video
host, but also goes on
location to host television
shows outside the
studio. (courtesy of Da’ai
Television, New Faces in
Taiwan)
Despite only working part time, she took her job as lations, after a year and a half of hard work by RTI and
seriously as a full-time one, taking a hosting skills class with the help of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the
and developing interesting new programming ideas. Vietnam Economic and Cultural Office in Taipei, Dau
But even so, she was still worried about whether she’d Chan Nguoi Viet became the first Taiwan-made show to
be able to stay after finishing college. be broadcast on Vietnamese television.
At that time, if an international student wanted to Never back down
work in Taiwan after graduating, they had to meet two For all her success, though, Tuong Vy also has some
conditions: they had to have two years of work expe- memories she would rather leave in the past. But for the
rience, and a job paying at least NT$48,000 a month. sake of other women, she has chosen to stand up and
(The Ministry of Labor has since 2012 relaxed these say “me too.”
conditions somewhat, dropping the pay requirement to The Me Too movement dates back to efforts begin-
NT$37,619 a month and doing away with the experience ning in 2006 by African-American civil rights activist
requirement.) Tuong Vy had the experience, but getting Tarana Burke to combat sexual harassment. It began
a job that paid that well was a tough ask for a fresh col- to take off in recent years as actresses in Hollywood
lege graduate. started using the hashtag #MeToo on Twitter to encour-
As she watched her classmates head back to their age other victims to stand up and share their experi-
countries one after the other, she only grew more wor- ences. Burke and other activists, dubbed “The Silence
ried. Then one day one of the bosses at RTI came to see Breakers,” were even named Time Magazine’s Person of
her. As it turned out, the director of the Vietnamese the Year in 2017, drawing further attention to the issues
service had already long since asked them to keep her of sexual assault and sexual harassment.
on, and having seen how hard she had been working, Tuong Vy’s first job was an interpreter for an agency,
management agreed. With that load off her mind, Tuong and while on a business trip, she was sexually harassed
Vy set to work again with RTI, filming a show for them by a colleague. After a long night of deliberating, she
entitled Dau Chan Nguoi Viet, or “Vietnamese Footprints.” decided to report the perpetrator to management.
Made under a tight budget and with minimal staff, She, like other “silence breakers,” says, “Some peo-
the show nonetheless turned out to be an excellent way ple will wonder if they did something that made the
for Tuong Vy to promote Taiwan in her homeland. De- other person harass them. But no, it is not your fault!
spite the two countries not having formal diplomatic re- The fault is in the other person’s mindset!” She also
121
秀的表現；在越南，則是將台灣好的一面，透過其實，常說自己人生很順利的范瑞薔薇，並不
影片呈現給更多越南人看見。是沒有遭遇挫折，儘管遭遇過歧視和騷擾，她都
范瑞薔薇工作中與聽友們締結深厚的友誼，她選擇以自信樂觀的態度去面對。採訪這天，范瑞
印象最深刻的是一位寫信訴說心事的監獄聽友，薔薇挺著9個月大的孕肚說：「我們越南人必須
她看了《別再叫我外籍新娘》和收聽廣播節目，要更努力融入台灣社會、對台灣社會有所付出。
被范瑞薔薇感動，特別請越南籍獄友代筆寫信，不一定要做什麼最偉大的，好好教育我們的後代
范瑞薔薇也會回寄一些卡片或小禮物，鼓勵她度就是一種付出。」樂觀、從小地方做起，范瑞薔
過人生的低潮。薇持續在台灣綻放溫暖的光芒。 l
calls on women to protect themselves, and if they en-

counter sexual harassment, to be brave enough to ex-
pose it in the spirit of #MeToo—“Me too, and I will not
back down!”
A rose in Taiwan
Red roses are a symbol of love, just like the love
Tuong Vy, whose name is Vietnamese for “rose,” has for
Taiwan. That love is what has motivated her to work so
hard to break down the barriers between Taiwan and
Vietnam. In Taiwan, she leads by example, working
hard and proving that Vietnamese people in Taiwan can
also excel. In Vietnam, she presents the positive face of
Taiwan to the Vietnamese people through her videos.
When Taiwan Panorama visited her, Tuong Vy was
nine months pregnant, and she remarked, “We Viet-
namese in Taiwan don’t necessarily have to do any-
thing amazing for Taiwanese society—just raising the
next generation well is contribution enough.” With her
simple approach, Tuong Vy continues to be a beacon of
inspiration and positivity in and for Taiwan. l
(Camille Kuo/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
tr. by Geof Aberhart)

台灣光華·世界光華北美地區訂閱單
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畫說成語平裝 Paperback US$11 本

Chinese Sayings Told in Pictures
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全 球 ． 在 地 ． 人 文

中華民國107年11月 第43卷 第11期

O ur land is like a book that lies waiting

封面故事 Cover Story

影像對話 Photo Essay

2 福爾摩沙地質之美 1 羅屋書院 52 月月好讀

島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan

藝文脈絡 Cultural Trends

6 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

Not Just the Queen’s Head:

8 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

varying degrees of hardness, and

10 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

12 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

14 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

abundant in that spot and promised

The Island in Microcosm

18 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

20 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

Caoling’s landscape features

22 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

方向始終如一。 Philippine Sea Plate. The resultant

24 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

26 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

Water Curtain Cave, Great Steep

Good Fruit from Bad Land

28 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

30 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

32 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

34 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

36 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

38 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

40 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

O ur visit to Taiwan’s North-

42 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

44 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

帶，第一個要看到螃蟹，第二 源，以海洋生態為主軸，在暑假 木舟，地點就在鼻頭漁港裡的軟

46 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

48 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama 2018/11

感 恩的字？ 要 牢 記 在 心，不 可 忘 記，因 為 大

是什麼，卻記得它在書的某一角； 會 心 慌。她 問：這 種 無 時 無 刻 都

自 主 地 低 下 頭 看，還 有 沒 有 一 百 英 文的「a l o n e」和「l o n e l y」雖

道 理。大 腦 對 凡 是 跟 生 存 有 關 的 寂寞，端看你的修養。一 個國家若

訊息，是不 花力氣 就記住了。 是 大 人小 孩 都 定 不 下 心，社 會 將

辦 教 育 就 是 為了要 使 人 超 越 動 物 人一 向 喜 歡 熱 鬧，好 像 喧 鬧 就 是 書名：靜下來，才知道人生要什麼

比對父 母好，那是自然 定律，不 必 德 國 參 加 世 界 宗 教 音 樂 節。他

還 大，父 母 不 要 去 扮 偵 探，有 話 員 在 後 台 大 聲 喧 嘩 時，日 本 的 演 感 覺。整 個 舞 台 就 他 一 個 人，吹

* * * 中 央，跪 坐 下 來，低 頭 一 言 不 發 他 們 有 笙、管、笛、木 魚，加 上

靜下來，才知道人生要什麼 兩 三 分 鐘。所 有 的 觀 眾 都 感 受 到 鼓、鐃 鈸 和 鑼，是 正 宗 的 佛 教 音

一 位 老 師 很 憂 心 地 對 我 說， 這 個 沉 默 的 力 量，大 家 都 安 靜 下 樂，他 們 也 演 奏 得 很 好，但 效 果

現 在 的 孩 子 愈 來 愈 浮 躁，靜 不 下 來，屏息 凝 氣等 待。 卻 不 及 日 本 表 演 者 的 獨 奏。會

來，他 們 無 法 完 整 地 聽 進 一 句 當日本 音 樂 家 把 尺 八 放 到 嘴 邊 後 一 個 歐 洲 學 者 說：「 在 日 本 的

話，常 常 只 聽 一 半，有 時 中 間 漏 開 始 演 奏 時，那 個 嗚 咽 聲 彷 彿 從 尺 八 中，我 聽 到 了 禪 意，在 中 國

掉，頭 尾不銜 接 也不自覺，所以做 遙 遠 的 時 空 深 處 傳 來，讓 人 產 生 的 音 樂 中，我 只 覺 得 吵，不 見 佛

事 會 出 錯。甚 至 有 些 大 人也 是 一 「 前 不 見 古 人，後 不 見 來 者，念 意。」這 個 吵 趕 走 了 佛 教 音 樂 應

回 家 就 立 刻 把 電 視 打 開，不 管 看 天 地 之 悠 悠，獨 愴 然 而 涕 下」的 有 的 悠 揚。

在 許 多 教 室 都 配 有 擴 音 器，怕 坐 別 人 的 回 答 都 是 樣 版 ——我 是 來 己 吃。我 說 潛 艇 堡 比 你 平 常 吃 的

在後面的學 生 聽不見，其實，專 心 學 習 的，不 論 跟 著 誰 我 都 會 好 好 麵 包貴一 倍吧？他 說不會，切一半

才是 聽 見 的 主 要 原 因。有 一 次 我 學；這 位 同 學 卻 能 馬 上 說 出 名 字 賣 給同學，還可以小賺 一 點呢。

去 一 所 國 中 演 講，在 走 廊 上 就 聽 及 想學的東 西，所以他被 錄 取了。 很多人不 在 意小節，說「成 大事

到 各 班 級 的 授 課 聲，為了 要 蓋 過 老 闆 說，「當 大 家 都 差 不多 時，決 者不 拘小節」，其實小節是 窺 視 人

隔 壁 班 的 音 量，老 師 只 好 開 得 更 定 在 細節」，令 我深思。 品 的窗，小處 不 苟且 的人，大 處 不

大 聲。擴 音 器 不 但 不 能 幫 助 孩 子 有一 個小故事。二次世界大戰結 會 妥 協。細 節 的 注 意 需 在 生 活 中

學 習，反而造 成干擾。其實聲 音愈 束後，大阪 民不 聊生，有個放 貸的 培養，這孩子 有個好 母 親，平日有

全球．在地．人文

中華民國107年11月第43卷第11期

帶，第一個要看到螃蟹，第二源，以海洋生態為主軸，在暑假木舟，地點就在鼻頭漁港裡的軟

感恩的字？要牢記在心，不可忘記，因為大

是什麼，卻記得它在書的某一角；會心慌。她問：這種無時無刻都

自主地低下頭看，還有沒有一百英文的「a l o n e」和「l o n e l y」雖

道理。大腦對凡是跟生存有關的寂寞，端看你的修養。一個國家若

訊息，是不花力氣就記住了。是大人小孩都定不下心，社會將

辦教育就是為了要使人超越動物人一向喜歡熱鬧，好像喧鬧就是書名：靜下來，才知道人生要什麼

比對父母好，那是自然定律，不必德國參加世界宗教音樂節。他

還大，父母不要去扮偵探，有話員在後台大聲喧嘩時，日本的演感覺。整個舞台就他一個人，吹

* * * 中央，跪坐下來，低頭一言不發他們有笙、管、笛、木魚，加上

靜下來，才知道人生要什麼兩三分鐘。所有的觀眾都感受到鼓、鐃鈸和鑼，是正宗的佛教音

一位老師很憂心地對我說，這個沉默的力量，大家都安靜下樂，他們也演奏得很好，但效果

現在的孩子愈來愈浮躁，靜不下來，屏息凝氣等待。卻不及日本表演者的獨奏。會

來，他們無法完整地聽進一句當日本音樂家把尺八放到嘴邊後一個歐洲學者說：「在日本的

話，常常只聽一半，有時中間漏開始演奏時，那個嗚咽聲彷彿從尺八中，我聽到了禪意，在中國

掉，頭尾不銜接也不自覺，所以做遙遠的時空深處傳來，讓人產生的音樂中，我只覺得吵，不見佛

事會出錯。甚至有些大人也是一「前不見古人，後不見來者，念意。」這個吵趕走了佛教音樂應

回家就立刻把電視打開，不管看天地之悠悠，獨愴然而涕下」的有的悠揚。

在許多教室都配有擴音器，怕坐別人的回答都是樣版 ——我是來己吃。我說潛艇堡比你平常吃的

在後面的學生聽不見，其實，專心學習的，不論跟著誰我都會好好麵包貴一倍吧？他說不會，切一半

才是聽見的主要原因。有一次我學；這位同學卻能馬上說出名字賣給同學，還可以小賺一點呢。

去一所國中演講，在走廊上就聽及想學的東西，所以他被錄取了。很多人不在意小節，說「成大事

到各班級的授課聲，為了要蓋過老闆說，「當大家都差不多時，決者不拘小節」，其實小節是窺視人

隔壁班的音量，老師只好開得更定在細節」，令我深思。品的窗，小處不苟且的人，大處不

大聲。擴音器不但不能幫助孩子有一個小故事。二次世界大戰結會妥協。細節的注意需在生活中

學習，反而造成干擾。其實聲音愈束後，大阪民不聊生，有個放貸的培養，這孩子有個好母親，平日有

大，孩子愈不需要專心聽，於是老人每天晚上把髒皺的鈔票在小教導他做人做事的道理，成就了

就愈聽不見，反而是聲音不大時，火爐上一一熨平。有人問：錢就是他的細心。杜威（J o h n D ewey）

為了要聽見，大家都會靜下來。錢，不會因熨平而多一點，何必如是對的，「生活教育比知識教育

風，而且一班有六十四人 (不像現鈔，給人的感覺比較好。就這一點 * * *

人人會Google，天才來得及到北京。在高鐵站，這看他們在這方面是怎麼做。

小細節決勝負學生遞來一個潛艇堡，叫我不用逸夫學院的學生每學期有四

我有三個學生成績一樣好，個買便當。這教授一見眉開眼笑，說次正式晚宴演講。學院規定男生

性也都樂觀合群，但是在找工作他很怕便當會弄髒他還要穿好幾西裝革履、女生洋裝高跟鞋，跟

上，其中一個找到兩個工作，有兩天的西裝。演講者一起坐下來吃三道菜的西

個還未找到，我不免有些好奇。我我還他錢時，順便問他怎麼想餐，餐後再聽演講。院長說，服

闆，就問他詳情。教授不太會拿筷子，就知道便當這個場合。人的行為會受到環境

他說現在年輕人在面試前，都對他不合適，尤其去台南的車每制約，衣冠楚楚時表現會比較文

會先上網看一下公司情形，也都站停，會不停剎車，麵包可能比便雅，就像喧鬧的孩子在進入教堂

能各言爾志，但是別人只在網路當好，所以就先買了。我說萬一我後會噤聲一樣。

上看產品，這個找到工作的學生不要時，你怎麼辦？學生說：我媽從過去的講者如李遠哲、楊

卻到光華商場實際看了成品，所說，替人買東西，一定要買萬一人振寧、費孝通、邱成桐、何炳棣

以回答的深度不一樣。被問到若家不要的話，自己可以要的，才不看來，這個講座的確是學院的大

事，演講完的發問時間比演講時七十億元新台幣，而台大學生卻家，媽甘願養你一輩子。」拉了孩

間還長，使院長有機會當場評估比城市大學多了一萬人。香港城子便走人。這位老師說，不是孩子

演講的成效。市大學的校長郭位是台灣清華大不想長大，是家長不肯放手。她

我問經費的來源，院長說都是學的校友，他很自豪地說，法國國問：「如何使家長不依賴孩子？」

香港仕紳捐贈的，每名學生餐費為家科學院有四名院士在亞洲，這好個「依賴」，竟不是孩子依賴

一百二十元港幣，出席便不收費，四名全在城市大學。目前他們媒媽媽，而是大人不能接受孩子長

須養成誠信守諾的習慣，食物也不之百，聽了令我們羨慕不已。巧婦孩子沒有機會去嘗試新經驗，一

可浪費。那天演講結束是晚上十難為無米之炊，徒呼奈何。個從來沒有試過新東西的人會安

點，學生卻沒有散去。院長說聽演我也有機會去香港兩所中學演於現狀。老地圖找不到新航線，

講是吸取別人智慧最快的方法，他講，老師們的問題不在學生，反而目光自然如豆了。

們學生的視野便在這四年三十二在父母身上。一個老師說，他有學歌德說，「光是知道是不夠

場的超級演講中，逐漸打開了。生畢業後去當店員，上工第一週，的，必須會用；光是願意是不夠

回顧台灣的企業家，除了少數母親天天站在對街看。開店自然的，必須力行。」 (Knowing is not

如溫世仁基金會之外，似乎沒有要補貨，香港地狹人稠路很擠，下 enough, we must apply; willing is not

香港太平紳士這種捐錢贊助通完貨後車必須馬上開走，因此店 enough, we must do.) 要打開孩子

識講座的習慣；只靠公家經費在員得搬貨。這位母親看到兒子在的視野，除了給他新知，還得放

台灣的大學辦這種高級講座，幾搬貨，衝過馬路，對著老闆大叫：手讓他去體驗才行。大人放不了

費太少，香港城市大學一年有兩的東西？我兒子是來做店員，不是悉的世界，墨守成規的小孩，是不

百億元新台幣的預算，台大只有做苦工的，」接著對兒子說：「回會有創意的！

（林旻萱攝　 photo by Lin Min-hsuan）

The four townships of Taimali, Jinfeng, Da