Damper basics
To choose the right damper, consider the number of fireplace openings,
the throat design, and the labor for installation and repairs
n a masonry fireplace, the
I damper controls heat and gas
flow and forms a barrier to
back draft in the firebox. When
open, it allows gases and smoke
to pass through from the fire
chamber to the smoke chamber.
When closed, a damper reduces
A universal damper’s funnel shape promotes even burning of the fire in a
multi-opening firebox.
By Robin L. Daugherty
heat loss and directs heat into the
room, eliminates downdrafts, and
keeps animals, wind, and rain out
of the fireplace, home, and in
some cases, the chimney.
Keep the damper closed when
the fireplace is not in use to pre-
vent warm air in the home from
escaping. Open it fully when start-
ing a fire. Once the fire starts, re-
duce the opening size to maxi-
mize the heat. Don’t reduce it too
much or smoke will filter back in-
to the room.
Dampers are made from either
steel or cast iron. Most types
have a framework with a pivoting
valve plate that swings open to-
ward the back of the fireplace
with the help of a chain, lever, or
exterior turnscrew device.
Five types of dampers can be
installed in a masonry fireplace:
blade, form, high dome (high
form), universal (square form),
and chimney-top. The first four
dampers are typically installed
during new construction. Chim-
ney sweeps usually install chim-
ney-top dampers as a repair if in-
ternal dampers burn out or
function improperly.
Damper options
Blade and form dampers work
best in single-opening fireplaces
because their throat capacities
are generally too small for multi-
ple openings. The oldest type of
masonry fireplace damper, the
cast-iron blade damper, has a
valve plate with a welded handle
that extends into the firebox for
opening and closing. Its main ben-
efit is its sturdy, cast-iron con-
struction that resists warping and
burning out.
The form damper generally is
made of steel. It incorporates a
blade damper inside a metal box
form that serves as a throat be-
tween the firebox and flue, saving
the labor and costs of building a
complete smoke chamber.
High-dome and universal
dampers are good choices for
multi-opening fireplaces because
they cover more of the firebox and
throat area. They provide more
room for the additional smoke re-
leased in multi-opening fireplaces.
Both may be either steel or cast
iron. Some masons prefer a high-
dome damper over universal mod-
els because its built-in downdraft
shelf forms a large part of the
smoke chamber. This shelf allows
the chimney flue to be construct-
ed directly over the firebox to pro-
mote draft. The damper’s height
also reduces the possibility of ma-
sonry blocking the valve plate.
The main benefit of universal
dampers is their suitability for sin-
gle-opening, multi-opening, and
corner fireplaces. Universal
dampers are deeply sloped on
both sides. The sloped sides are
designed to fit comfortably into
the narrow throats of multi-open-
ing fireplaces. The wide throat
and funnel shape help promote
even burning of fire everywhere in
the firebox. The universal damper
also saves on labor by integrating
the damper, smoke chamber, and
lintel in its sloped design.
Internal dampers open and
close with a push-and-pull action,
but types of handles vary. Some
are operated by inserting a poker
into a lever or by a pull-chain con-
trol that extends from the damper
into the firebox. Others have a ro-
tary turnscrew control that ex-
tends through the fireplace’s ma-
sonry face and is turned to open
and close the damper. Although
the traditional poker control is
most common, rotary control
mechanisms have gained popular-
ity because users don’t have to
Although chimney-top dampers
differ in design, all open and close
by means of a weight- or spring-
loaded chain that runs down the
flue into the firebox.
reach into the firebox to adjust
the damper, thus eliminating mess
and the chance of being burned.
Chimney-top dampers
Chimney-top dampers fall into a
separate class from conventional
dampers. Like high-dome and uni-
versal dampers, they can be used
with any type of fireplace, but
protect it from the top rather than
from inside the flue. Because of
this, they also function as chim-
ney caps when closed. In most
cases, these dampers are in-
stalled on chimneys after the orig-
inal throat damper has burned
out or malfunctioned.
Although they differ from con-
ventional dampers by design,
chimney-top dampers function in
a similar way. All open and close
by means of a weight- or spring-
loaded chain mechanism that
runs from the top of the chimney,
down the flue, and into the fire-
box. Some adjust to open the flue
to different settings, thus control-
ling the amount of draft. Some
chimney-top dampers have lock-
ing mechanisms that are said to
form an airtight seal on the chim-
ney top and muffle outdoor
sounds when they’re closed.
Most chimney-top dampers
come ready to install. In contrast,
most internal dampers must be as-
sembled before being installed.
For repairs or replacement, chim-
ney-top dampers can be lifted out
of the flue. Builders say mortared-
in internal dampers are much
harder to remove because they are
embedded in the flue. Because of
the extra time and effort involved
in installing or replacing internal
dampers, labor costs for installa-
tion are usually higher than labor
costs for chimney-top dampers.
One builder says it takes at least a
day or two of labor to remove and
replace an internal damper.
Chimney-top dampers work
well for fireplaces or masonry
stoves that will be used as a pri-
mary heat source because they
hold heat in more efficiently after
the fire is out. Some builders of
Rumford fireplaces also prefer
chimney-top dampers because
The high-dome damper’s built-in
downdraft shelf extends upward,
creating a large portion of the
smoke chamber.
most internal dampers don’t fit
well in the small Rumford throat.
Builders who use chimney-top
dampers say they have one draw-
back. Because they are exposed to
the elements, moving parts may
freeze when temperatures drop,
making the damper inoperable.
Proper installation
When a damper is installed cor-
rectly, it should last the life of the
house. Incorrect installation of a
damper can create potential
smoke problems, crack internal
masonry and masonry facing, and
cause the damper to burn out.
Before installation, you must as-
semble the damper according to
manufacturer’s instructions. Be
sure all moving parts work freely
before it is installed because it is
difficult to remove once mortared
in. When placing the damper in
the flue, make sure its handle is
centered in the firebox.
In a new masonry fireplace, the
damper should be bedded loosely
in the throat in enough refractory
mortar to make it level on top of
the firebox. Place the damper at
least one shiner course of fire-
brick higher than the angle-iron
lintel that covers the firebox open-
ing. To allow for expansion, leave
about a 1⁄2-inch space around the
damper’s ends and solid sides.
Some type of noncombustible, fi-
brous insulation, such as mineral
wool, should be placed around
the space and the adjacent ma-
sonry to prevent heat loss. The
space compensates for movement
and the insulation insulates.
When installing a damper, take
care to avoid some common
problems:
• If the damper is mortared in too
tight, expansion when it heats
up can cause masonry on the
face of the fireplace to crack.
• If too much space is left around
the sides, without insulation,
outside air comes in and heat-
ed air escapes from the room.

Damper costs
Damper costs vary depending
on size, style, materials, and geo-
graphic region. For an average 36-
inch damper, the most frequently
used size, a cast-iron blade damper
usually costs $35 to $45; a steel
form damper costs $30 to $35; a
steel high-dome damper costs $45
to $50; and the steel universal
models typically cost $160 to $170.
Prices of chimney-top dampers
vary widely. One manufacturer’s
prices range between $108 for one
that fits 8x8-inch flue tiles and
$182 for one fitting 24x24-inch flue
tiles. Another manufacturer offers
an 8x8-inch for about $87, and
that firm’s largest, a 17x17-inch,
sells for about $140. A third manu-
facturer’s prices range from $95
for an 8x8-inch flue to $153 for a
17x17-inch flue.
Each type of damper fills certain
fireplace needs. The blade damper
works well in venting single-open-
ing fireplaces. The form damper
helps create a throat between the
firebox and flue in single-opening
fireplaces. The high-form damper,
which can be used in any kind of
fireplace, has a built-in downdraft
shelf that permits the flue to be
built directly over the firebox. The
funnel-shaped universal damper in-
tegrates various chimney compo-
nents in its design, saving on labor
and providing an even burn
throughout the hearth. In selecting
a damper, choose the one that best
suits your taste and the design of
the fireplace you’re building.

PUBLICATION #M910358
Copyright 1991
The Aberdeen Group
All rights reserved