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CONTENTS
S.No. TOPICS
1 Introduction
2 History
3 Current Position
4 Measures
5 Future Prospects
6 Structure of Industry
7 Competitors
8 Problems
9 Export
10 Investment
11 SWOT Analysis
12 Conclusion
INTRODUCTION
The Indian textile industry has a significant presence in the economy as well as in the
international textile economy. Its contribution to the Indian economy is manifested in
terms of its contribution to the industrial production, employment generation and foreign
exchange earnings. It contributes 20 percent of industrial production, 9 percent of excise
collections, 18 percent of employment in the industrial sector, nearly 20 percent to the
countrys total export earning and 4 percent to the Gross Domestic Product.
In human history, past and present can never ignore the importance of textile in a
civilization decisively affecting its destinies, effectively changing its social scenario. A
brief but thoroughly researched feature on Indian textile culture.
India has been well known for her textile goods since very ancient times. The traditional
textile industry of India was virtually decayed during the colonial regime. However, the
modern textile industry took birth in India in the early nineteenth century when the first
textile mill in the country was established at fort gloster near Calcutta in 1818. The cotton
textile industry, however, made its real beginning in Bombay, in 1850s. The first cotton
textile mill of Bombay was established in 1854 by a Parsi cotton merchant then engaged
in overseas and internal trade. Indeed, the vast majority of the early mills were the
handiwork of Parsi merchants engaged in yarn and cloth trade at home and Chinese and
African markets.
The first cotton mill in Ahmedabad, which was eventually to emerge as a rival centre to
Bombay, was established in 1861. The spread of the textile industry to Ahmedabad was
largely due to the Gujarati trading class.
The cotton textile industry made rapid progress in the second half of the nineteenth
century and by the end of the century there were 178 cotton textile mills; but during the
year 1900 the cotton textile industry was in bad state due to the great famine and a
number of mills of Bombay and Ahmedabad were to be closed down for long periods.
The two world War and the Swadeshi movement provided great stimulus to the Indian
cotton textile industry. However, during the period 1922 to 1937 the industry was in
doldrums and during this period a number of the Bombay mills changed hands. The
second World War, during which textile import from Japan completely stopped, however,
brought about an unprecedented growth of this industry. The number of mills increased
from 178 with 4.05 lakh looms in 1901 to 249 mills with 13.35 lakh looms in 1921 and
further to 396 mills with over 20 lakh looms in 1941. By 1945 there were 417 mills
employing 5.10 lakh workers.
The cotton textile industry is rightly described as a Swadeshi industry because it was
developed with indigenous entrepreneurship and capital and in the pre-independence era
the Swadeshi movement stimulated demand for Indian textile in the country.
The partition of the country at the time of independence affected the cotton textile
industry also. The Indian union got 409 out of the 423 textiles mills of the undivided
India. 14 mills and 22 per cent of the land under cotton cultivation went to Pakistan.
Some mills were closed down for some time. For a number of years since independence,
Indian mills had to import cotton from Pakistan and other countries.
After independence, the cotton textile industry made rapid strides under the Plans.
Between 1951 and 1982 the total number of spindles doubled from 11 million to 22
million. It increased further to well over 26 million by 1989-90.
Textile constitutes the single largest industry in India. The segment of the industry during
the year 2000-01 has been positive. The production of cotton declined from 156 lakh
bales in 1999-2000 to 1.40 lakh bales during 2000-01. Production of man-made fibre
increased from 835 million kgs in 1999-2000 to 904 million kgs during the year 2000-01
registering a growth of 8.26%. The production of spun yarn increased to 3160 million kgs
during 2000-01 from 3046 million kgs during 1999-2000 registering a growth of 3.7%.
The production of man-made filament yarn registered a growth of 2.91% during the year
1999-2000 increasing from 894 million kgs to 920 million kgs. The production of fabric
registered a growth of 2.7% during the year 1999-2000 increasing from 39,208 million sq
mtrs to 40,256 million sq mtrs. The production of mill sector declined by 2.6% while
production of handloom, powerloom and hosiery sector increased by 2%, 2.7% and 5.1%
respectively. The exports of textiles and garments increased from Rs. 455048 million to
Rs. 552424 million, registering a growth of 21%. Growth in the textile industry in the
year 2003-2004 was Rs. 1609 billion. And during 2004-05 production of fabrics touched
a peak of 45,378 million squre meters. In the year 2005-06 up to November, production
of fabrics registered a further growth of 9 percent over the corresponding period of the
previous year. With the growing awareness in the industry of its strengths and weakness
and the need for exploiting the opportunities and averting threats, the government has
initiated many policy measures as follows.
The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) was launched in April 99 to provide
easy access to capital for technological upgradation by various segments of the Industry.
The Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC) was launched in February 2000 to address
issues relating to the core fibre of Cotton like low productivity, contamination, obsolete
ginning and pressing factories, lack of storage facilities and marketing infrastructure
A New Long Term Textiles and Garments Export Entitlement (Quota) Policies 2000-
2004 was announced for a period of five years with effect from 1.1.2000 to 31.12.2004
covering the remaining period of the quota regime.
In the current year Budget 2009-2010 states the measures for Textile Industry as
follows
► Allocation to the Technology Upgradation Fund (TUF) enhanced from Rs4.4bn to Rs
5.4bn.
► Provision for the interest subsidy on term loans to the handloom sector to be increased
from Rs2.0bn to Rs 2.4bn.
► Rs1.9 bn to be provided for the scheme for integrated Textiles Parks (launched in
October 2005 with the intention of creating 25 textile parks)
► Excise duty on all man-made fibre yarn and filament yarn to be reduced from 16% to
8%
► Import duty on all man-made fibers and yarns to be reduced from 15% to 10%.
FUTURE PROSPECTS:
The future outlook for the industry looks promising, rising income levels in both urban
and rural markets will ensure a rising market for the cotton fabrics considered a basic
need in the realm of new economic reforms (NER) proper attention has been given to the
development of the textiles industry in the Tenth plan. Total outlay on the development
of textile industry as envisaged in the tenth plan is fixed at Rs.1980 crore. The production
targets envisaged in the terminal year of the Tenth plan are 45,500 million sq metres of
cloth 4,150 million kg of spun yarn and 1,450 million kg of man made filament yarn. The
per capita availability of cloth would be 28.00 sq meters by 2006-2007 as compared to
23.19 sq meters in 2000-01 showing a growth of 3.19 percent. The export target of
textiles and apparel is placed at $32 billion by 2006-2007 and $50 billion by 2010.
The textile sector in India is one of the worlds largest. The textile industry today is
divided into three segments:
1. Cotton Textiles
2. Synthetic Textiles
3. Other like Wool, Jute, Silk etc.
All segments have their own place but even today cotton textiles continue to dominate
with 73% share. The structure of cotton textile industry is very complex with co-
existence of oldest technologies of hand spinning and hand weaving with the most
sophisticated automatic spindles and loom. The structure of the textile industry is
extremely complex with the modern, sophisticated and highly mechanized mill sector on
the one hand and hand spinning and hand weaving (handloom sector) on the other in
between falls the decentralised small scale powerloom sector.
♦ Composite Mills.
Relatively large-scale mills that integrate spinning, weaving and, sometimes, fabric
finishing are common in other major textile-producing countries. In India, however, these
types of mills now account for about only 3 percent of output in the textile sector. About
276 composite mills are now operating in India, most owned by the public sector and
many deemed financially sick. In 2003-2004 composite mills that produced 1434 m.sq
mts of cloth. Most of these mills are located in Gujarat and Maharashtra.
♦ Spinning.
Spinning is the process of converting cotton or manmade fiber into yarn to be used for
weaving and knitting. This mills chiefly located in North India. Spinning sector is
technology intensive and productivity is affected by the quality of cotton and the cleaning
process used during ginning. Largely due to deregulation beginning in the mid-1980s,
spinning is the most consolidated and technically efficient sector in Indias textile
industry. Average plant size remains small, however, and technology outdated, relative to
other major producers. In 2002/03, Indias spinning sector consisted of about 1,146 small-
scale independent firms and 1,599
♦ Fabric Finishing.
Fabric finishing (also referred to as processing), which includes dyeing, printing, and
other cloth preparation prior to the manufacture of clothing, is also dominated by a large
number of independent, small-scale enterprises. Overall, about 2,300 processors are
operating in India, including about 2,100 independent units and 200 units that are
integrated with spinning, weaving, or knitting units.
♦ Clothing.
Apparel is produced by about 77,000 small-scale units classified as domestic
manufacturers, manufacturer exporters, and fabricators (subcontractors).
To understand Indias position among other textile producing the industry contributes
9% of GDP and 35% of foreign exchange earning, Indias share in global exports is only
3% compared to Chinas 13.75% percent. In addition to China, other developing
countries are emerging as serious competitive threats to India. Looking at export shares,
Korea (6%) and Taiwan (5.5%) are ahead of India, while Turkey (2.9%) has already
caught up and others like Thailand (2.3%) and Indonesia (2%) are not much further
behind. The reason for this development is the fact that India lags behind these
countries in investment levels, technology, quality and logistics. If India were
competitive in some key segments it could serve as a basis for building a modern
industry, but there is no evidence of such signs, except to some extent in the spinning
industry
The cotton textile industry is reeling under manifold problems. The major problems
are the following:
♦ Sickness:
Sickness is widespread in the cotton textile industry. After the engineering industry,
the cotton textile industry has the highest incidence of sickness. As many as 125 sick
units have been taken over by the Central Government. Sickness is caused by various
reasons like the problems mentioned below.
♦ Obsolescence:
The plant and machinery and technology employed by a number of units are obsolete.
The need today is to make the industry technologically up-to-date rather than expand
capacity as such. This need was foreseen quite sometime back and schemes for
modernisation of textile industry had been introduced. The soft loan scheme was
introduced a few years back and some units were able to take advantage of the scheme
and modernise their equipment. However, the problem has not been fully tackled and
it is of utmost importance that the whole industry is technologically updated. Not
many companies would be able to find resources internally and will have to depend on
financial institutions and other sources.
♦ Government Regulations:
Government regulations like the obligation to produced controlled cloth are against
the interest of the industry. During the last two decades the excessive regulations
exercised by the government on the mill sector has promoted inefficiency in both
production and management. This has also resulted in a colossal waste of raw
materials and productive facilities. For example, the mills are not allowed to use
filament yarn in warp in order to protect the interest of art silk and powerloom sector
which use this yarn to cater to the affluent section of society.
♦ Labour Problems:
The cotton textile industry is frequently plagued by labour problems. The very long
strike of the textile workers of Bombay caused losses amounting to millions of rupees
not only to the workers and industry but also to the nation in terms of excise and other
taxes and exports.
♦ Accumulation of Stock:
At times the industry faces the problems of very low off take of stocks resulting in
accumulation of huge stocks. The situation leads to price cuts and the like leading to
loss or low profits.
♦ Miscellaneous:
The industry faces a number of other problems like power cuts, infrastructural
problems, lack of finance, exorbitant rise in raw material prices and production costs
etc.
EXPORT AT GLANCE:
Textile exports plays a crucial role in the overall exports from India.Throught export
friendly government policies and positive efforts by the exporting community, textile
exports increased substantially from US$ 5.07 billion in 1991-92 to US$ 12.10 billion
during 2000-01. The textile export basket contributing over 46 percent of total textile
export. In world textile trade has risen to 3.1 percent in 1999-2000 as against 1.80
percent in early nineties. Exports have grown at an average of 11 percent per annum
over the last few years, while world textile trade has grown only about 5.4 per cent per
annum in the same years. During the year 2000-01 Indias textile export was US$
12014.4 million. It was increased the year 2004-05 US$ 13038.64 million. The
exports of textiles (including handicrafts, jute, and coir) formed 24.6% of total exports
in 2001-2002, however this percentage decreased to 16.24% during 2004-2005. The
textile exports recorded a growth of 15.3% in 2002-2003 and 8.7% in 2003-2004.
Textile exports during the period of April-February 2003-2004 amounted to $11,698.5
million. During 2004-05 textile exports were US$ 13,039.00 million, recording a
decline of 3.4% as compared to the corresponding period of previous year. However,
during April-November, 2005, the textile exports have shown growth of 8.2% as
compare to the corresponding period of previous year. Against a target of US$ 15,160
million during 2004-05, the textile exports were of US$13039 million, registering a
shortfall of 14% against the target. The overall export target for 2005-06 has been
fixed at US$ 15,565 million. In 2005 textile and garments accounted for about 16% of
export earning. Indias textile export to the US have shown a good rise of 29.5%
between January and June 2005.
Investment is the key for Indian textiles to make rapid strides. The Vision Statement
prepared by the Indian Cotton Mills federation has projected that the industry has the
potential to reach a size of $85 billion by 2010 from the current level of $ 36 billion.
Further, the vision statement has estimated that textile exports could touch $40 billion
by 2010 from $ 11 billion in 2002. In the process, Indias share in the global textile and
clothing trade is expected to double from three percent in 2002 to six percent by 2010.
To reach these these ambitious target, it is estimated that new investment to the tune of
Rs.1, 40,000 crores will be needed in the next five years. After analysing the capacity
and technology levels in various segments of textile Industry and the need for
modernisation, funds required for various segments have been below.
The Multi-Fibre Agreement (MFA)
The Multi-Fibre Agreement (MFA), that had governed the extent of textile trade
between nations since 1962, expired on 1 January 2005. It is expected that, post-MFA,
most tariff distortions would gradually disappear and firms with robust capabilities
will gain in the global trade of textile and apparel. The prize is the $360 bn market
which is expected to grow to about $600 bn by the year 2010 barely five years after
the expiry of MFA.
Faced with new challenges and opportunities in a changing global trade environment,
the GOI unveiled its National Textile Policy 2000 (NTP 2000) on November 2, 2000.
The NTP 2000 aims to improve the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry in
order to attain $50 billion per year in textile and apparel exports by 2010.86 The NTP
2000 opens the countrys apparel sector to large firms and allows up to 100 percent
FDI in the sector without any export obligation.
Export Promotion Capital Goods (EPCG) Scheme
To promote modernization of Indian industry, the GOI set up the Export Promotion
Capital Goods (EPCG) scheme, which permits a firm importing new or Secondhand
capital goods for production of articles for export to enter the capital goods at preferential
tariffs, provided that the firm exports at least six times the c.i.f. value of the imported
capital goods within 6 years. Any textile firm planning to modernize its operations had to
import at least $4.6 million worth of equipment to qualify for duty-free treatment under
the EPCG scheme.
Export-Import Policy
The GOIs EXIM policy provides for a variety of largely export-related assistance to firms
engaged in the manufacture and trade of textile products. This policy includes fiscal and
other trade and investment incentives contained in various programs
DEPS is available to Indian export companies and traders on a pre- and post-export basis.
The pre-export credit requires that the beneficiary firm has exported during the preceding
3-year period. The post-export credit is a transferable credit that exporters of finished
goods can use to pay or offset customs duties on subsequent imports of any unrestricted
products.
The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) promises abolition of all quota
restrictions in international trade in textiles and clothing by the year 2005. This provides
tremendous scope for export expansion from developing countries.
Under the Scheme funds can be given to Central/ State Government Departments/ Public
Sector Undertakings/ Other Central /State Governments agencies/recognized industrial
association or entrepreneur bodies for development of infrastructure directly benefiting
the textile units. The fund would not be available for individual production units.
Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS)
At present, the only scheme through which Government can assist the industry is the
Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) which provides for reimbursing 5%
interest on the loans/finance raised from designated financial institutions for bench
marked projects of modernisation. IDBI, SIDBI, IFCI have been designed as nodal
agencies for large and medium small scale industry and jute industry respectively. They
have co-opted 148 leading commercial banks/cooperative banks and financial institutions
like State Finance Corporations and State Industrial Development Corporation etc.
The Council looks after the export promotion of cotton fabrics, cotton yarn and cotton
made-ups. Its activities include market studies for individual products, circulation of
trade enquiries, participation in exhibitions, fairs and seminars at home and abroad, in
order to boost exports.
Strengths
Reduced Lead-times:
Manufacturing capacity present across the entire product range, enabling textile
companies and garmenters do source their material locally and reduce lead-time.
Super Market:
Ability to satisfy customer requirements across multiple product grades- small and large
lot sizes specialized process treatments etc.
Weaknesses
Fragmented industry
Fragmented industry leading to lower ability to expand and emerge as world-class
players.
Technological Obsolescence
♦ Large portion of the processing capacity is obsolete
♦ While state of the art integrated textile mills exist majority of the capacity lies currently
with the powerloom sector.
♦ This has also resulted in low value addition in the industry.
Opportunities
Threats
Regional alliances
♦ Reginal trade blocs play a significant role in the global garment industry with countries
enjoying concessional tariffs by virtue of being members of such blocs/ alliances.
♦ Indian industry would need to be prepared to face the fall out of the post 2005
scenarious in the form of continued barriers for imports.
CONCLUSION:
The Indian textile industry is currently one of the largest and most important sector in the
economy interms of output foreign exchange earnings and employment in India. The
Textile industry has the potential to scale new height in the globalized economy. The
textile industry in India has gone through significant charges in anticipation of increased
international competition. The industry is facing numerous problems and among them the
most important once are those of liquidity for many organized sector units, demand
recession and insufficient price realization. The long-range problems include the need for
sufficient modernisation and restructuring of the entire industry to cater more effectively
to the demands of the domestic and foreign markets for textiles as per the needs of today
and tomorrow.