Unit 11

MARINE METEOROLOGY

Basic terms
weather report fair-weather system
pressure bad-weather system
barometer centre of depression
anticyclone halo
heavy winds / rain veering wind
haze backing wind
mist thunderstorm
depression heavy seas

Meteorology is the study of weather patterns with the

object of predicting change in the weather. It is a complex
science, based on current weather reports over a large area,
and it is of great importance to navigators (recent units are
given in hecto-pascals).
To the navigator the atmospheric pressure in the
vicinity of his position at sea is the most important guide he
has to the likely behaviour of the weather in the immediate
future.
Atmospheric pressure is measured by the height of a
column of mercury. Another method of measuring
atmospheric pressure is with an aneroid barometer. The
average atmospheric pressure at sea level in millibars is
1,013 in winter and 1,016 in summer.
There are two main weather systems in the general
weather patterns, anticyclones and depressions.
In the northern hemisphere an anticyclone is a system
of wind which circulates spirally in a clockwise direction
around an area of high pressure, which can at times cover an
area of immense size. In the southern hemisphere the
anticyclone wind circulates in an anti-clockwise direction,
though still around a high pressure area. The stronger winds
are found at the outer limits of the anticyclone, those nearer
the centre being very light or at times non-existent. This is
always a fair-weather system, with the air dry and the
wind strength never more than moderate.
 Anticyclones (or highs) are normally slow moving and
sometimes stationary for quite long periods. The approach
of an anticyclone can usually be predicted by a steadily
rising barometer and a clearing sky.
In a depression (or a low), basically a bad-weather
system, the wind blows in an anti-clockwise direction about
a centre of low pressure in the northern hemisphere, and in a
clockwise direction in the southern hemisphere. The winds
arc usually high, sometimes violent, often accompanied by
heavy rain, and strongest near the centre of the low pressure
area where the barometer gradient is steepest. Depressions
usually move swiftly, at an average rate of about 25 miles
an hour.
A navigator needs to know where the centre of a
depression is in relation to the position of his vessel, in
order to avoid the area of highest wind. The approach of a
depression can be foretold by a falling barometer, a backing
wind, and the appearance in the sky of cirrus clouds. Further
evidence of an approaching depression is a halo, or white
luminous ring, around the sun or moon, and banking up of
low, heavy cloud.
Most meteorological or weather reports consist of
three principal parts:

Part 1 - Warning (gale, storm, hurricane, fog, sand

storm), nil or no warning.

Part 2 - Synopsis of surface weather or weather

situation or inference (i.e. description of weather
systems such as depressions and anti-cyclones).

Part 3 - Weather forecast: outlook (12 hours) and

further outlook (outlook for the next 12 hours).
LES 102 - MSG 355 - MetWarn/Fore Safety Call to Area: 1 - NoPos
BT CSAT 23423440010402 15-JAN-1999 09:29:08 600998

SECURITE

HIGH SEAS WEATHER BULLETIN FOR METAREA 1 FROM BRACKNELL UNITED

KINGDOM ISSUED AT 0800 UTC FRI 15 JANUARY 1999

Part One: STORM WARNING

AT 150000UTC, LOW 58 NORTH 21 WEST 960 EXPECTED 62 NORTH 09 WEST
927 BY 160000UTC.
WINDS WILL REACH STORM FORCE 10 TO HURRICANE
FORCE 12 IN THE SOUTHERN SEMICIRCLE WITHIN 300 MILES OF THE
CENTRE.
WINDS WILL ALSO REACH STORM FORCE 10 IN THE NORTHWESTERN QUADRANT
WITHIN 300 MILES OF THE CENTER.
AT 150000UTC, LOW 63 NORTH 32 WEST 960 EXPECTED 58 NORTH 27 WEST
968 BY 160000UTC. WINDS WILL REACH STORM FORCE 10 IN THE
SOUTHWESTERN QUADRANT BETWEEN 100 MILES AND 350 MILES FROM THE
CENTRE.
WINDS WILL ALSO INCREASE TO STORM FORCE 10 IN THE DENMARK STRAIT

Part Two: GENERAL SYNOPSIS

AT 150000UTC, LOW 58 NORTH 21 WEST 960 EXPECTED 62 NORTH 09 WEST
927 BY 160000UTC.
LOW 63 NORTH 32 WEST 968 EXPECTED 58 NORTH 27
WEST 968 BY SAME TIME. HIGH 35 NORTH 30 WEST 1034 MOVING STEADILY
SOUTHWEST AND DECLINING, LOSING ITS IDENTITY BY THAT TIME

Part Three: AREA FORECASTS FOR NEXT 24 HOURS

SOUTHEAST ICELAND
EAST 6 OR 7 BACKING NORTHEAST GALE 8 TO STORM 10. SHOWERS THEN
RAIN. MODERATE OR POOR

EAST NORTHERN SECTION

IN NORTH, CYCLONIC IN EAST AT FIRST, OTHERWISE NORTH OR NORTHEAST
7 TO SEVERE GALE 9, OCCASIONALLY STORM 10 IN EAST AT FIRST.
SQUALLY WINTRY SHOWERS. MODERATE.
IN SOUTH, WESTERLY GALE 8 TO STORM 10, OCCASIONALLY VIOLENT STORM
11 TO HURRICANE FORCE 12 IN THE EAST AT FIRST, DECREASING 6 TO
GALE 8. WINTRY SHOWERS. MODERATE OR POOR

WEST CENTRAL SECTION

IN NORTH, WESTERLY GALE 8 TO STORM 10. SQUALLY WINTRY SHOWERS.
MODERATE OR GOOD. LIGHT ICING IN SOUTH, NORTHWESTERLY 7 TO SEVERE
GALE 9. SQUALLY WINTRY SHOWERS.
MODERATE OR GOOD

NORWEGIAN SEA AND DENMARK STRAIT

EAST OF 00 DEGS WEST, SOUTHEASTERLY 6 TO GALE 8 INCREASING SEVERE
GALE 9. WINTRY SHOWERS THEN RAIN. GOOD BECOMING MODERATE OR POOR.
FROM 10 DEGS WEST TO 00 DEGS WEST, SOUTHEASTERLY BACKING
NORTHEASTERLY 6 TO GALE 8 INCREASING SEVERE GALE 9. SNOW SHOWERS
THEN RAIN. MODERATE OR POOR.
WEST OF 10 DEGS WEST, NORTHEASTERLY 7 TO SEVERE GALE 9 ,
OCCASIONALLY STORM 10 IN THE DENMARK STRAIT AND FOR A TIME NEAR
NORTHEASTERN ICELAND. SNOW SHOWERS MODERATE OR POOR. TEMPERATURES
MS02 TO MS06 WITH MODERATE OR SEVERE ICING
IMO STANDARD MARINE COMMUNICATION PHRASES
(SMCP 2001)

III/3.1 - WARNINGS INVOLVING

METEOROLOGICAL AND HYDRO LOGICAL
CONDITIONS

3.1.1 - Winds, storms, tropical storms, sea state

What is wind direction and force in your position/in
position... ?
- Wind direction ... (compass points), force Beaufort ...
in my position/in position...

Is wind backing/veering?
- Wind backing/veering.

Is wind expected to increase/decrease?

- Wind expected to increase/decrease.

What is latest gale warning?

- Latest gale warning is as follows: Gale warning.
Winds at... UTC in area ... (metarea) from direction ...
(compass points) and force Beaufort ... backing/veering
to ...

What is atmospheric pressure in your position/in position... ?

- Atmospheric pressure... millibars.

What maximum winds are expected in storm area?

- Maximum winds of... knots expected in storm area.

What is sea state in your position/in position... ?

- Sea/swell in my position/in position ...... metres from ...
(compass points).

Is sea state expected to change (within next hours)?

- No, sea state not expected to change (within next hours).
- Yes, sea/swell of... metres from ... (compass points)
expected (within next hours).
3.1.2 - Restricted visibility (due to mist/fog, precipitation)
What is visibility in your position/in position... ?
- Visibility in my position/in position ......
metres/nautical miles.
- Visibility reduced by mist/fog/snow/dust/rain.
- Visibility increasing/decreasing/variable.

Is visibility expected to change in my position/in position...

(within next hours)?
- Yes, visibility expected to increase/decrease to ...
metres/nautical miles in your position/in position ...
(within next hours).

What is latest ice information?

- Ice warning. Ice/iceberg(s) located in position...
/reported in area around … .
A. Comprehension & vocabulary

A.1 Decide whether the following statements are true or

false:

1. Meteorology is an exact science today.

2. A sudden change of pressure is an
important guide for the navigator.
3. In an anticyclone the winds are usually moderate.
4. A depression is basically a fair-weather system.
5. A depression has low air pressure in the centre.
6. Anticyclones are accompanied by heavy rain.
7. Anticyclones are predicted by a steadily rising barometer.
8. Cyclonic weather is predicted by a clearing sky.

A.2 Supply the missing terms

• tropical storm • hectopascals • average • wind • heavy
• hectopascals • depression • falling • settled • weather
• moderate • pressure

1. Every rise in the ____________ does not foretell an

anticyclone and every fall does not foretell a
____________ .
2. Variations of three to four ____________ except in the
tropics, are fairly normal.
3. Five hp above and steady or still rising barometer
indicates ________________ weather with light to
____________ winds.
4. A barometer reading of five hectopascals, below normal,
with the barometer still _____________ , is an indication
of a period of unsettled ______________ .
5. In the tropics a fall of three mb below the _____________
needs to be treated with caution.
6. If it lasts for two or three days, it is a sure predication of a
______________ .
7. In other areas the pressure of less than 1000
_____________ , and the barometer falling rapidly at one
hp per hour, indicates strong _____________ and
_____________ rain.
A.3 Insert the following missing meteorological terms:
• heavy • visibility • veer • drizzle • front • direction
• warm • speed • cold • sky • rain • wind • approach
• speed • haze • sleet • cold front

1.In modern meteorological language wind-shift lines are

called ______________ ; three types of fronts are
recognized: __________________ fronts, _____________
fronts, and occluded fronts.
2. The meteorological elements of special interest to the
navigator are wind _____________, wind
_____________ , appearance of the _____________
and frontal _____________ .
3. The ______________ of a well-defined warm front is
indicated in middle and high latitudes by solidly overcast
skies with more or less steady _______________ and
diminishing _______________ . When the warm front
arrives, the _____________________ veers rather
suddenly, the rain stops or diminishes to a fine
_____________ .
4. The conditions following the passage of a warm front are
succeeded, sooner or later, by passage of a
_____________ .
5. When this occurs, _____________ rain begins and the
wind _____________ suddenly.
6. Precipitation of rain and snow or snow and hail is called
_____________ .
7. In _____________ the visibility is reduced to about one
mile.
A.4 Answer the following questions:
1. What does meteorology study?
2. What is it based on?
3. How can the navigator best predict the change in weather?
4. What is the atmospheric pressure measured with? Where?
5. What are the two main weather systems?
6. Describe an anticyclone: circulation of wind, pressure at
its centre, strength of winds, air, moving, forecasting
anticyclones.
7. Describe a depression: circulation of wind, pressure, wind
strength, air, moving, forecasting depressions.

A.5 Match the English terms of the Beaufort Wind Scale

with the Italian or your language equivalent (see
Beaufort Wind Scale, p. 84):
A.6 Working in pairs describe the two weather systems
ANTI-CYCLONE DEPRESSION
denotation on
weather maps
Pressure in the
centre

Wind change

Wind force

Type of Weather

Appearance of
ther sky

Precipitations

Prediction
B. Grammar

B.1 Put the verbs in brackets into the Simple Present

(active or passive):

Tropical storms
Tropical storms (occur) _______________ in tropical and
sub-tropical latitudes in all oceans. They (have)
_____________ different names in different oceans. In the
western North Atlantic, eastern North Pacific and western
South Pacific they (know) _________________ as
hurricanes. They (call) ____________ cyclones in the
Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, South Indian Ocean and the
vicinity of North-West Australia. In the western North
Pacific they (refer) _______________ to as typhoons. A
monsoon (not be) ______________ a tropical storm because
it (be) ____________ a seasonal wind which (occur)
__________________ in the Indian and western Pacific
Oceans. In the Arabian Sea and in the China Sea a monsoon
wind (reach) ______________ gale force.
B.2 Put the verbs in brackets into the Simple Past, the
Past Continuous or the Past Perfect Tense:

Hurricane «Gladys» (1975)

«Gladys» (follow) ____________ the disturbance from
which the hurricane «Faye» (form) ____________ four
days before. «Faye» (take) ____________ a more
northerly track while «Gladys» (follow) ____________
the south-east along latitude 11°11' N. It (reach)
____________ tropical depression status near long. 35°00'
W and tropical storm strength near long. 40°00' W.
It (reach) ____________ hurricane intensity before
«Faye». As the hurricane (turn) ____________ to a
northerly track the MS «Marconi Trader» (report)
____________ hurricane-force winds of 70 knots on
October 1st. Twenty-four hours later at 18.00 hrs southerly
winds of 60 knots (report) _____________ and a
reconnaissance aircraft (measure) ____________ a central
pressure of 939 mb and 120-knot wind. On the 2nd October
the «Gladys» (accelerate) _____________ as it (pass)
____________ about 70 miles off Cape race. Widespread
gales (cover) ____________ the western Atlantic as
«Gladys» (merge) ____________ with a strong cold
front.
A ship which (run) ____________ into a tropical storm
three months earlier (report) ____________ 44-knot winds
early that day.
B.3 Classify the words according to the pronunciation of
the stressed vowel:
• meteorology • weather • passage • atmosphere •
atmospheric • mercury • barometer • barometric •
anticyclone • depression • hemisphere • anticyclonic •
gradient • halo • hurricane • typhoon • monsoon • gale
• facsimile

B.4 Form adjectives from the following nouns (note the

shifting of stress):
C. Translation

C.1 Translate the following dialogue into English:

MV MISTRAL - Messina Radio. Messina Radio. Qui MV Mistral.
Quali sono le
condizioni del mare nella tua zona?
- MESSINA RADIO - Mistral. Mistral. Qui Messina Radio. La
direzione prevista delle onde è 40 gradi.
MV MISTRAL - Quali condizioni del mare sonopreviste nella zona
15 gradi Nord e 12 gradi Ovest?
- MESSINA RADIO - Ci sono indicazioni di una forte depressione
in formazione in posizione 15 gradi Nord ell Ovest. Ci si aspetta
che la temperatura dell'aria scenda sotto zero. È prevista onda
morta lunga debole. È prevista una riduzione di visibilità.
MV MISTRAL - Come cambia l'intensità e laforza del vento?
- MESSINA RADIO - II vento è in aumento. Dovreste cambiare
rotta finché le
condizioni migliorano.
MV MISTRAL - Ricevuto. Aspetterò finché il tempo migliora.
 BEAUFORT WIND SCALE AND SEA DISTURBANCE
TABLE
Equivalent speed at 10 m
above sea level
Mean Limits Description State Probable
Force Description Specification for use at knots metres knots metres in forecasts of height of
sea* per per sea waves*
second second metres
0 Calm Sea like a mirror. 0 0.0 <1 0.0-0.2 Calm Calm 0.0
1 Light air Ripples with the 2 0.8 0.3-1.5 Light Calm 0.1 (0.1)
1-3
appearance of scales are
formed, but without foam
crests.
2 Light breeze Small wavelets, still short 5 2.4 4-6 1.6-3.3 Light Smooth 0.2 (0.3)
but more pronounced.
Crests have a glassy
appearance and do not
break.
3 Gentle Large wavelets. Crests 9 4.3 7-10 3.4-5.4 Light Smooth 0.6 (1.0)
breeze begin to break. Foam of
glassy appearance.
Perhaps scattered white
horses.
4 Moderate Small waves, becoming 13 6.7 11-16 5.5-7.9 Moderate Slight 1.0 (1.5)
breeze longer, fairly frequent
white horses.
5 Fresh breeze Moderate waves, taking a 19 9.3 17-21 8.0- Fresh Moderate 2.0 (2.5)
more pronounced long 10.7
form; many white horses
are formed. Chance of
some spray
6 Strong Large waves begin to 24 12.3 22-27 10.8- Strong Rough 3.0 (4.0)
breeze form; the white foam 13.8
crests are more extensive
everywhere. Probably
some spray.
7 Near gale Sea heaps up and white 30 15.5 28-33 13.9- Strong Very 4.0 (5.5)
foam from breaking 17.1 rough
waves begins to be blown
in streaks along the
direction of the wind.
8 Gale Moderately high waves of 37 18.9 34-40 17.2- Gale High 5.5 (7.5)
greater length; edges of 20.7
crests begin to break into
spindrift. The foam is
blown in well-marked
streaks along the
direction of the wind.
9 Strong gale High waves. Dense 44 22.6 41-47 20.8- Severe gale Very 7.0 (10.0)
streaks of foam along the 24.4 high
direction of the wind.
Crests of waves begin to
topple, tumble and roll
over. Spray may affect
visibility.
10 Storm Very high waves with 52 26.4 48-55 24.5- Storm Very 9.0 (12.5)
long overhanging crests. 28.4 high
The resulting foam, in
great patches, is blown in
dense white streaks
along the direction of the
wind. On the whole, the
surface of the sea takes a
white appearance. The
'tumbling' of the sea
becomes heavy and
shock-like. Visibility
affected.
11 Violent Exceptionally high waves 60 30.5 56-63 28.5- Violent Pheno- 11.5
storm (small and medium-sized 32.6 storm menal (16.0)
ships might be lost to
 view for a time behind
the waves). The sea is
completely covered with
long white patches of
foam lying along the
direction of the wind.
Everywhere the edges of
the wave crests are
blown into froth. Visibility
affected.
12 Hurricane The air is filled with foam - - 64 32.7 Hurricane Pheno- 14.0 (-)
and spray. Sea and and force menal
completely white with over over
driving spray; visibility
seriously affected.

* These columns are a guide to show roughly what may be expected in the open sea, remote from land.
Figures in brackets indicate the probable maximum height of waves. In enclosed waters, or when near land
with an offshore wind, wave heights will be smaller and the waves steeper.
 Republika Hrvatska - Državni Hidrometeorološki Zavod

VREMENSKO IZVJEŠĆE, dan 12.10.2006 u 19:00 sati

UPOZORENJE
Sutra se u Velebitskom kanalu očekuju mjestimični udari NE vjetra
30-40 čvorova.
SITUACIJA
Nad Jadranom se zadržava polje povišenog atmosferskog tlaka, kao dio
prostrane anticiklone s europskog kopna.
VREMENSKA PROGNOZA ZA JADRAN ZA 24 SATA
Vjetar uglavnom NW, tijekom noći i jutra uz obalu NE, 6-14 čvorova. Sutra
na sjevernom Jadranu NE vjetar 6-16, u Velebitskom kanalu u pojačanju
tijekom dana do 22 čvora. More 1-2, na otvorenom južnog Jadrana i sutra na
sjevernom Jadranu ponegdje 3. Vidljivost 10-20 km, na otvorenom moru
sjevernog i dijela srednjeg Jadrana ponegdje oko 4 km zbog sumaglice.
Pretežno vedro.

WEATHER REPORT ISSUED BY THE MARINE METEOROLOGICAL

CENTER SPLIT
ON 12.10.2006 AT 1200 HOURS

WARNING
Tomorrow by midday gusts of NE 30-40 knots are possible in the
Velebit Channel.
SYNOPSIS
The ridge of high is stationary over the Adriatic.
WEATHER FORECAST FOR THE ADRITATIC FOR THE FIRST 12 HOURS
NW, also SW 4-10 along the coast while up to 15 knots in the open of the
Central and South Adriatic. In the course of the night calm along the coast or
NE 4-10 knots. The sea 1-2 while 2-3 in the open of the South and Central
Adriatic. Visibility 10-20 km, possible to be reduced to 1-4 km due to mist in
the open of the North Adriatic. Mostly clear.
WEATHER FORECAST FOR THE NEXT 12 HOURS
Mostly clear while moderate cloud increase in the North Adriatic. Light NW in
the open while moderate in places of the Central and South Adriatic. Calm or
with light NE along the coast of the Central and South Adriatic. Light to
moderate NE along the coast of the North Adriatic, by midday onwards at
times strong at the foot ofVelebit. The sea smooth to slight. No significant
change in air temperature.
Marine forecasts glossary
Marine forecasts contain a number of terms which are used to convey specific meanings.

Gale warnings

Gale Winds of at least Beaufort force 8 (34-40 knots) or gusts reaching 43-51 knots

Severe gale Winds of force 9 (41-47 knots) or gusts reaching 52-60 knots

Storm Winds of force 10 (48-55 knots) or gusts reaching 61-68 knots

Violent storm Winds of force 11 (56-63 knots) or gusts of 69 knots or more

Hurricane force Winds of force 12 (64 knots or more)

Note: The term used is 'hurricane force'; the term 'hurricane' on its own means a true tropical
cyclone, not experienced in British waters.

Imminent Expected within six hours of time of issue

Soon Expected within six to 12 hours of time of issue

Later Expected more than 12 hours from time of issue

Visibility

Fog Visibility less than 1,000 metres

Poor Visibility between 1,000 metres and 2 nautical miles

Moderate Visibility between 2 and 5 nautical miles

Good Visibility more than 5 nautical miles

Movement of pressure systems

Slowly Moving at less than 15 knots

Steadily Moving at 15 to 25 knots

Rather quickly Moving at 25 to 35 knots

Rapidly Moving at 35 to 45 knots

Very rapidly Moving at more than 45 knots

Note: For those more familiar with the millibar, 1 hPa = 1 mb

Wind

Wind direction Indicates the direction from which the wind is blowing

Becoming cyclonic Indicates that there will be considerable change in wind direction across the path of
a depression within the forecast area

Veering The changing of the wind direction clockwise, e.g. SW to W

Backing The changing of the wind in the opposite direction to veering (anticlockwise), e.g. SE
to NE