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musical at the new Mondavi Center. Later, we spent a few nights in the quaint
and charming Napa Inn, spending our days in Napa Valley’s vineyards soaking up
The Mondavi Center, a new 1800 seat performance hall set at the entrance
philanthropic efforts. In a prior column I wrote about his largess and guidance in
creating the Copia, the new American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts (707-
to Gilbert and Sullivan’s operetta “HMS Pinafore” with professional leads and a
travellers each morning around the breakfast table and having hosts that
endeavor to make you feel at home in what is often their home. And B & B’s are
several re-incarnations and their own special “karma.” Homes can be haunted,
charming, romantic, or, shall I say it, simply homey. And so, I found the Napa
Inn, with its own “romantic and homey” karma and several incarnations.
The Napa Inn (800-435-1144) was originally called the Johnston home.
Built as a wedding gift from the groom’s parents in 1899, the Johnstons spent
their entired married life, fifty years, in the Queen Anne Victorian home. When
they died, the house was gifted to the City of Napa and over the next half
century it had several more incarnations - as municipal office space and even as
the Napa Police Department. In 1981, it became what it is today, a romantic and
charming bed-and-breakfast.
The Napa Inn was bought and remodeled in 1998 by Brooke and Jim Boyer,
“If you talk to guests that stay at a B & B’s,” Brooke relates, “many will say
that they thought that owning one would be a nice life style. That’s what we
thought. Jim and I would go to a B & B for our anniversary every year. Five or
six years ago we went to one up in the mountains, a nice little farm house. The
couple that owned it were retired and they pretty much worked when they
wanted to, and we thought ‘this is a great idea; we can do this when we retire.’”
A few years ago they decided not to wait until they retired. They decided
to “do it now.” So, they bought the Napa Inn, an existing six room bed and
breakfast.
But with only six rooms, and with Napa and its wine trail becoming ever
more popular, they soon discovered they had to turn many people away. So, they
expanded their new venture and bought the Buford House just behind the main
house which has an additional eight rooms. Both houses are Victorians but not
the same style. The main house is a Queen Anne. The Buford House, built in
of Historic Places.
Simon Buford, a wealthy Berryessa rancher, built the house in 1877 as his
“town” home. It too has passed through many incarnations. From 1920 to 1955,
it was a county “detention home” for wayward boys. From 1955-74 it was a
breakfast inn.
While there certainly must be some lure to being an innkeeper and earning
own home – as attested to by the Boyers and their success - there must also be
financial and personal stresses to the task. So before you leap at the idea of
owning a bed and breakfast, witness the fact that the Napa Inn has had five
different owners since it first became a B & B in 1981. Running a B & B can be a
The main building, the Napa Inn, has fewer rooms because it also has a
large entry, a parlor, the dining room, and the kitchen. The Buford House just
has guest rooms and the owner’s quarters. Rates vary with least expensive
winter rates at $120 on weekdays to $250 on weekends. The same room in the
rotating weekly. There’s an entrée, usually an egg souffle, a hot fruit dish, a
potato dish, a bread dish, fresh fruit salad, granola, and two kinds of juice and
coffee every morning. Quite a variety and their apricot shortbread is fantastic.
In the afternoon, there’s cheese and crackers. There are desserts, cakes
and chocolates after three. The kitchen is always open for hot drinks and sodas.
While the Inn is not as close to Napa’s wineries as other bed and breakfast
venues that are set in the midst of country vineyards, it is still well located. It’s
a five minute walk to town center. Just a few blocks past that is the Opera
House, the Copia, and the Wine Train. The Inn is three blocks from Highway
The rooms are spacious and comfortable but bathrooms are somewhat
cramped. Some of the décor is a little shoddy and needs upgrading. The parlor
however is charmingly period with comfortable couches and wing chairs set
about a fireplace and library. The dining room with hand painted ceilings is
beautifully decorated for breakfast with lace table cloths and fine china. It’s a
What made this trip to wine country extra special were the intimate tours
we received from several small boutique wine owners. My friend, Jerold Gold,
arranged for several of these tours. He’s much more the wine afficiando than I
and has been straining for years to wean me from the white zinfindels, the Coca-
Cola of wines, to the wonders of the reds. Perhaps my palate is maturing. I’ve
suddenly become able to taste those subtle undercurrents in the reds that make
certain wines so very special - the grapefruit, the apple, the peppers. But I’ll
never beat Jerry. While I’m tasting a hint of apple, he can find the cigar
While Jerry did a wonderful job arranging our tours, a major lesson learned
from this trip is that I don’t use my innkeeper enough. The Boyers and other
innkeepers are so very familiar with the Napa Valley community, they can do
wonders in setting up winery tours and making reservations for great dining.
You’ll need to make appointments for personal tours of small privately owned
vineyards. We didn’t use our innkeepers for the task. You should.
are elegant tasting rooms, a gift shop, and a spectacular hand-carved grand
staircse that leads to a second story exhibit of the winery owner’s, Francis Ford
Coppola’s, movie memorabilia. There was lunch at V. Sattui winery with its great
deli and picnic grounds. But most memorable were the intimate tours and
Cakebread. While Robert Mondavi is producing wine by the boatload, these “mom
and pop” ventures, with sometimes just a dozen or so acres under cultivation,
produce just a few thousand cases. Walking through the vines with Shawn
Guilliams or up to a hilltop overlook with Mr. Smith, I learned about local politics
and the travails of growing the grape. Even if you have the land, one owner
grumbled, city hall regulates how many acres of vines you can plant and on what
slope you can plant them. There are worries over insects encroaching from
nearby forests, decisions to be made as to how far apart to plant each vine,
when to harvest, how long to leave it in the cask, what casks to use, how to
Make the trip North, enjoy Mondavi’s cultural generosity – the Mondavi
Center and the Copia. Discover the warmth of a bed and breakfast. And while
tasting the fruit of the vine, get a little up close and personal with the