Professional Documents
Culture Documents
SWAT VALLEY
(Past, Future and Prospects)
A realm of beauty
An ideal destination
by
MOHAMMAD ALAM
Thanks to all Friends and Swat lovers for their supports and suggestions.
The presented material in this book do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the
part of the department or departments.
This publication is Computed, deigned, layout, and cartographic work by Mohammad Alam
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any
form or by means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying. Recording or
by any information storage and retrieval system without permission from the
author.
FAREWORD
SAIDU SHARIF
SWAT
22 Dec 2004
Mr. Mohammad Alam has made a good attempt, in producing “Swat valley”. This book
gives a tourist a good general knowledge of Swat valley, its past and present, places to visit
and many other details. He has spent much time and efforts in collecting details and then
compiles them in to this book.
People like Mohammad Alam should be encouraged by both Government and private
people in producing such documentary books in Pakistan.
Best Wishes
MIANGUL AURANGZEB
Wali Ahad of former Swat State
PREFACE
The book titled “Swat valley; a realm of beauty an ideal destination” written by
Mohammad Alam provides a very useful information and recent data for its readers regarding
the varied aspects of Swat valley. Swat valley has remained an area of major interest for
travellers, archaeologist as well as earth, natural and social scientists. As a result, a number
of studies have been carried out generating considerable published materials as travel
accounts, books, thesis, articles, government reports etc which can be used for future
professional research works.
This book on Swat valley is a very valuable contribution towards knowledge. The author
has very successfully attempted the physical, social and economic aspects of the study area.
The book will prove an asset for travellers, planners, researchers, decision makers and
general media in the forthcoming developmental and research studies.
The present volume need addition and subtraction of some contents, which I hope, the
author will rectify in the next volume. On the whole, the book is the outcome of a very hard
work of the author and is very informative, explorative and descriptive in nature. It is one of
the best publications written on Swat valley.
PROFESSOR DR.. USMAN ALI
Ph.D. Geography
Charmin Department of Geography
Govt; Post Graduate Jehanzeb College
Saidu Sharif, Swat. NWFP Pakistan.
preplanned process and Provides more facilities by maintaining the existing deteriorated and
dilapidated roads. More roads should be constructed in order to make access to all the scenic
areas easy, maintain the archaeological site and provide the necessary facilities so that
tourism can be promoted which will prove a source of great strength for the valley as well for
the fragile economy of the country.
MOHAMMED ALAM
M.Sc Geography, DTH, TGS,
alampices@yahoo.com
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
This book is an introduction to a part of the country, which is most diverse, frequently
visited and attractive in the sense of natural beauty and historical significance. These
distinctive attractions is the two in one combination are the realm of beauty of the Swat
valley gradually it is becoming an ideal destination for the domestic and international tourism.
In this book the attractions of past history and the present developments are discussed for
the future prospects.
The book is written for the tourists and students who are concerned analytically in Swat
valley. In this book I tried to present some basic knowledge about the Geography, sociology,
archaeology, economy and tourism of the valley supported by statistical data to project the
in-depth of valley. This book covers the surface view of the valley to provide some basic
knowledge about Swat, when a tourist arrives in swat what he observes here generally while
for students the aspects of tourism in Swat valley. In this revised edition I tried to correct the
mistakes categorically happeneds due to different reasons, but the revised edition will also
gives you some other additional information about swat valley.
I again say thanks and appreciate the contribution, cooperation suggestions of all people,
colleagues and friends in the successful printing of the frist edition and would like to
gratefully acknowledge all forms of assistance / support for book. I hope that the reader of
this edition will find the book more attractive and informative. I would like to share your
comments and send me the suggestions, information about swat to rectify my short coming.
(MOHAMMED ALAM)
CONTENTS
1. FAREWORD................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 4
2. PREFACE ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
4. ACKNOWLEDGMENT............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 8
6. GEOGRAPHY .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 17
17. HEALTH & HEALTH CARE .................................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
IMPORTANT TO TOURIST ................................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
18. NATURAL VEGETATION.......................................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
14.1 TYPE OF FOREST ...................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
14.2 MUSHROOMS / MORELS............................................................................................ ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
14.3 MEDICINAL PLANTS ................................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
19. AGRICULTURE.............................................................................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
15.1 CEREAL CROPS ........................................................................................................ ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
15.2 PULSES .................................................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
15.3 VEGETABLE............................................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
15.4 FRUITS ................................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
15.5 HORTICULTURE ....................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
15.6 CASH CROPS ........................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
15.7 MUSHROOM ............................................................................................................ ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
20. LIVESTOCK...................................................................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
21. WILD LIFE AND FISH CULTURE........................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
17.1 SPECIES OF WILD LIFE ............................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
17.2 FISH & FISH CULTURE .............................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
22. MINERALS WEALTH .................................................................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
18.1 MINERALS AVAILABLE ............................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
23. INDUSTRIES ................................................................................................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
19.1 COTTAGE INDUSTRIES ............................................................................................. ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
19.2 MILL, FACTORIES & INDUSTRIES ............................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.
(A)
THE REGION
AND
ITS OUTLOOK
CHAPTER 1
SWAT VALLEY
S wat valley is the ancient Uddiyana (Royal Garden) of the river Suas
(fair dwelling). The Historians of Alexander, the great wrote down and
linked this land with river SWADISTU means pure, white water. Later
on the word changed in to SWAD and then SWAT. Some writers link this
land with the SWATI PATHAN when they were accompanied with the
MOHMOOD ARMY in 11th century AD and settled on this land, accordingly
the swat was named after them.
Some of the tourists found Swat like paradise on earth and they
considered it the Switzerland of the East. The patriots pronounce it as
Swat Zar Land (the land which sprinkles gold). The word Swat can be
summarized as the land of Snow, Water, Air (pleasant weather), and
Fig:1 Glimpse of
Trees (forest). Swat is definitely one of the most fertile regions of Pakistan Bahrain
producing seasonable crops of Rice, Wheat, Maize, vegetables and Fruits.
Cultivation is carried out on every possible bit of land, even on the top of the enclosing hills is
done through specialized terrace farming.
The valley is sprawled on 5937 sq. kms with the average elevation of 2800 feet above the
sea level. Malakand is the southern boundary of swat valley located at a distance of 91 Km
from Peshawar, 211 km from Islamabad. The Physiology of the valley changes from south to
north as elevation increases. River swat is flowing in the axis of the valley. Swat is known
historical and scenic tourist destination all over the world. It is one of the most beautiful,
green and fertile than other valleys further north. Lower Swat valley including Swat Ranizai is
wide and the fields are on the either side of the river, the villages are prosperous and
surrounded by fruits laden orchards. In the upper swat valley, the river flows through
respectively narrow valley while Swat Kohistan is the northern mountainous part of the valley
where alpine forests are in abundance in snow capped mountains. The highest peaks in these
mountains are Mt Falaksir, Mt Chokial and Mt Mankial. Swat offers some of the outstanding
walking and hiking in Pakistan, as well as excellent ground for skiing, fishing, trekking,
rafting, gliding, and climbing.
In short description Swat is nature gifted land of fascinating landscapes, clear healthy
climate, gushing crystal white water torrents, beautiful flora and fauna, welcoming people,
historical sites, mesmerizing alpine lakes, modern resorts and attractive tourist destination in
Pakistan. The valley is of great historical significance as it includes the remains of the
Buddhist Gandhara civilization and Uddiyana. Gandhara was a geographical region extended
from south of Sind to Swat in north, where Buddhism was at its peak. The type of art
developed in Gandhara is known as Gandhara Art. This area was specialized in settlement
architecture, stone cutting and stone carving while Uddiyana was a kingdom within Gandhara
consisting of the present day Malakand division. This geographical region remained like a
sandwich between the great powers of the past throughout the history from one period to
another; this part lies in the corridor from west to east. Among the foreign intruders central
Asia in the west, china and Tibet in the north, Iran from the south and India in the east were
chief exponents. The region was not only located ion the main route but also a very beautiful,
wealthy region and home to prosperous peoples in flourishing towns. In this motive the
region was invaded from time to time and different ethnic groups arrived here using different
routes by subduing the invaded population.
CHAPTER 2
GEOGRAPHY
The physical features and location of a particular region are generally known as geography of
the region avoiding the technical definition. Swat valley is located in the mountainous north of
the country from where the mountain ridge of above 18000 feet begins. The region is encircle
by high mountains of Hindukush. This is the most green and fertile and accessible valley in
the north where water, mountains and dissected plains are the main physical features.
in the East district Shangla is located. The maximum length of the valley from north to south
is 150 km and the maximum width is 50 Km while the minimum width is 13 km.
2.2 PHYSIOGRAPHY
Physiography means the physical features of that particular area it includes the
mountains, plains, rivers etc. Some 50 million years ago when Indian landmass collided with
the Eurasian continent forming the mountains of Himalayas and Hindu kush, the geologist
term this area the Kohistan arc. The physiographic region of Swat valley entirely consists of
the great Hindu Kush mountains system running north to south-eastwards. The northern
ridges reach the altitudes of 18000 feet while in south diminish in Peshawar Plain. The
mountains of Swat are the offshoots of Hindu Kush branch called Hindu Raj Mountains also
known as Shandur OR Mashabar Ranges produced by mountain building movement occurred
in tertiary era.
The valley of Swat can be classified in to the following physical regions, (you can read the
Maps prepared by Survey of Pakistan and Survey of India, The Map Series U502 sheet NI43-
1& 43-5 edition 1-AMS is available on web and the division and figures used here is based on
Maps published in Pakistan)
Map: 1
Map: 2
now look barren but small shribs can be seen on the mountains. In the west Dir-Swat
mountains are separated from Malakand Mountains by river Swat.
ii. Buner Hills
Buner hills lay in the front of lower Swat in the vicinity of Mingora. These hills penetrated
in to Shangla mountains located on the south east of the valley. The average altitude is 1800
meter while Mount Elum 9222' is the highest and sacred mountain in Buddhism, Hinduism
and also in the local muslim population as a place used by sofia for adoration. The hill faces
towards Swat are green and forested during winter season snow accumulated on the high
peaks but welts quickly in the early summers.
Swat Plain
The gradient of the plain is from northeast and northwest to southwest, in which the river
crossing it the middle splitting the valley in to two east and west halves. The whole plain of
Swat valley is sprinkled by the running water, and is made up of fine alluvial soil with gravel,
boulders are embedded. River swat and other tributaries, streams and torrents bring the
alluvial soil. This alluvium is spread on the valley floor during seasonal flooding from May to
August when the river swells. The other type of soil is residual soil of the piedmont.
The valley is gorge like above Madyan while the real plain started south of Baghderi a
town where river swat pass through a slender gorge, the valley broadens down stream with
average from 3-7 Km. The widest view is offered at, khwazakhela Gulibagh, Thana, and
Barikot villages. This part constitutes the richest and most populous part of the valley. The
rainfall is 32" to 35 inches spread over the twelve months, vast majority of people live by
agricultural activities. Most of them are in the richly fertile soil in small or large villages in
clusters surrounded by fields. The two-thirds of the arable land are irrigated. The uses of
modern methods of agriculture are increasing so per hector production is also increasing. The
main crops of the valley are Wheat, Maize, and Rice (Bigami) while other crops, fruits and
vegetables grow in abundance. The main valley of Swat can be divided in to the following
sub-valleys, which are farmed between the mountains, are also locally called as dara. These
sub valleys are important for its climatic variations.
Sub-valley Amluk dara; Lies on Barikot route via karakar
pass.
Sub-Valley Murghazar; south east of Mingora located on a
distance of 3 Km.
Sub-valley Jambil; Located east of Mingora.
Sub-Valley Manglawar; lies on Kalam road deep in to
Malam and Jabba.
Sub-Valley Khwazakhela; from khwazakhela to Shangla
pass. Fig: 2 River Swat in open valley near
Khwazakhela.
Sub-Valley Miandam; starting from Fatehe pur on east.
Sub-Valley Chail; Located east of Madyan.
Sub-valley Mankial; lies to ward east
Sub-Valley Ushu; North east of Kalam.
Sub-Valley Gabral; North west of kalam.
Sub-Valley Sakhra; located west of Fatehe pur on the right Bank of river Swat.
Sub-valley Harunai ;North west of Matta.
Sub-Valley Shahderi; Lies North of Kabal
Sub-valley Shamuzai; the area in front of Barikot
Sub-Valley Tutakan; Most southern part of Swat valley.
2.3 RIVER SWAT
River Swat is the third important river of the province, the
most important tributary of Kabul River and the backbone of
Swat valley. Swat river watershed consists of 13491 Km2
comprising of district Swat, lower Dir, Sam Ranizai and
adjacent Tribal areas up to the point where it becomes a tributary of river Kabal. The main
tributaries of the River Swat rises from the Shandur or Mashabar range of northern
mountains. The River Swat rises in Kalam where it’s two arms river Ushu and river Gabral
unite at approximately 6600 feet. The river and its tributary network comprising of Gabral,
Batal khwar, Ushu river, Kedam river, Daral river, Bishigram river, Harnuai river etc. River
Gabral (43%) is the chief tributary in water and sediments having the catchments area of 715
Km2. These jointly flow in the southern in the narrow valley (Gorge) of Swat kohistan or
northern Swat. At Bahrain river Daral combines with river Swat while about 24 miles journey
to Madyan lies at 4300 feet dropping in to 100 feet / mile. Down stream from Madyan the
valley broadens considerably. The river again enters in to a very narrow Gorge at Baghderi
and let mountainous journey comes to an end. From here on wards the area covered by the
river widens from 1-2 Km flowing in the network of ever changing, branching and reuniting
forming braided stream. Both monsoon rain and the ever-melting snow influence the water in
the river. The river carries a tremendous amount of sediment during summer flooding. A
seasonal discharge at Kalam is 4488 cusec (cubic feet per second) that reduced to 932 cusec
in winters. After passing Charbagh the river turns towards southwest during this journey the
river engulfs other seasonal streams Or Khwars and Nallas. Further South crossing the district
swat the river enters in to Tuta Kan sub valley at kulangi (right at BOSAQ a small village near
the newly constructed bridge) immediately from west the river is joined by river Panjkora.
Here it turns abruptly southwards and again enters in to a narrow gorge in to the tribal areas
of Arang Barang and Mohmand Agency. The river moves southwards travelling in the Hills of
Mohmand enters in to Charsadda district. After covering some distance, bifurcates in to River
khiali and Jundi. Both rivers fall in to river Kabal near Jungle and Chak Nisatta respectively.
The total distance from Kalam to Madyan is 35 Km while 80-Km further south ward up to the
junction where Panjkora and river swat meet. Where the course is steeper, there the erosion
is frequent particularly in the summer season when all the tributaries are over flooded. The
boulders and stones are rolled, dragged along the riverbed that ultimately causes valley
deepening, widening and disintegrating of rocks. The upper riverbed is rocky consisting of
boulder up to Madyan. The course below consists of relatively scattered boulders, gravel,
pebbles, and debris, sand and fine clay. The river is active every year the river erodes the
riverbanks, engulfs large patches of agricultural land to become the part of the riverbed, in
every season 2-3 tourists become the victims of powerful, swift and chilling water of the
river. Upper Swat canal is taken out of the left bank passing through Benton tunnel and newly
parallel constructed 3 Km long auxiliary tunnel at Dargai where two hydel power stations
were established in 1935 and 1953 the third power station is under construction on the same
canal. This canal irrigates 121,400-hector land in Peshawar valley while the whole of Sam
Ranizai is bless with this water other wise it was deserted land of Acacia, thrones bearing
shrubs and cactus.
In the River swat about 1544 billion cubic meter water is present around the year, in
winter it is reduced to 1288 cusec while in summer 5632-cusec water is flowing at Amandara
Head works, mean annual discharge of river swat at Chakdara is 172 m3s-1. About 70% of the
arable land in the valley is irrigated through civil canal taken out of the river swat. River swat
playing the role of blood artery, it irrigates, nourishes the soil, providing scenic beauty,
opportunity of fishing ground and opportunities for water
sports.
The river Swat plays an important role in the economy of
the valley. The river provides aesthetic value to the valley,
water for irrigation and domestic use, recharging water for
wells and springs, as a habitat for various fish and bird
species and important source of construction materials for
the new developments in the valley. But from last decade
river Swat face threats of contamination due to rapid
2.5 PASSES
Pass is the narrow passage, road, pedestrian trek between the hill and
mountains. These physical barriers are cutted in modern
techniques to construct the modern day’s road to facilitate
communications between the regions. These are the check
points are strategically important all times. Except the three
main passes other passes are usually use as pedestrian trek
mostly in the use of Ajar. Swat valley is connected with
other valleys with a number of Passes few of them,
1. Malakand Pass; (2705’) connects swat valley with
Peshawar valley via Dargai.
2. Kulangai pass; connects Swat valley with Peshawar Fig:5 Majestic view of Kundol Lake
valley via Charsadda or Dargai via Kot.
3. Gabral pass/Badwai Pass; Connects Swat valley with Kumrat valley of District upper Dir
via Gabral (Jamra).
4. Shangla Pass; (7000') connects Swat Valley with
Bisham via Alpuri.
5. Kalail Pass; connects swat through Jambil with District
Buner via Pir Baba.
6. Karakar Pass; (4384') connects Swat valley with dust
Buner via Jawar.
7. Dadarili Pass; connects Gilgit with swat via Mahodand
(Trekking route).
8. Kachikani Pass; (15637') connected to Chitral valley
in northwest from Mahodand. (Trekking route).
Shahkot pass, Charhat pass, Jawari pass, and Kamraney Fig: 6 Mt Speen sar houses Saidgai
pass are some of the other passes. lake.
Ushu sub-valley. Mahodand is the only accessible lake and a unmetalled road is extended
from Matiltan. This excursion takes your full day travelling in 4x4 vehicle available from
kalam. Kandal Shai lake and Massgal lake further north of Mahodand. Bishigram Lake
located in the sub-valley of Chail, you can access to via 4x4 vehicle up to Chail then at least 3
hours hiking to the lake or you can also trek via Miandam.
All these charming Lakes of various sizes in swat valley are waiting for their turn to be
fully explored and provide additional site of visits for tourists and hikers.
CHAPTER 3
CLIMATE
Climate is the over all condition of weather for long duration of a particular region.
The Climate of swat valley is influenced by various factors, i.e. altitude, direction of wind,
vegetation covers are the main contributors.
MAX/MINI TEPRATURE SAIDU
Climate of Swat valley is dominated by mountain
SHARIF 1997
intertwined by narrow sub-valley. The valley 40
Bottom is 600 meter while the surrounded 35
30
mountains are 4000 to 4500 meters in elevation. 25
Swat valley having five seasons, having its own
CELSUS
20
charm and splendour. The climate varies from sub- 15
tropical to alpine type. The summer season is short 10
5
and moderate, Mountain and Valley breeze are the 0
frequent contributor to adjust to weather. It is -5
warm in the Swat ranizai and lower Swat valley but J F M A M J J A S O N D
point. January is the coolest month with the mean monthly Temp at Saidu sharif is as lower
as -1ºC to the maximum to 19ºC is at the hottest part of the Valley. July is the hottest
month, when the temperature rises above 35ºC while June, July and August are the sister
hottest months.
The precipitation comes during summer by eastern depression as well as in winter mainly
from western depression. i.e. in winter (December to March) but this part of the country also
receives tail of the monsoon in July and August some time prolonged in to the middle of
September. The rainfall from local depression in April-June is more than October-November.
CELSUS
20
MONTHS
Western depression is the influence of weather changes from west.i.e. when temperature
fall in Mediterranean and Siberia region. This rainy season starts from the end of December
to February or March. In this season a continuous rainfall occurs some time continue for
weeks locally this is known as Jarai. In this type of rain usually small raindrops with slow
showers for longer duration. The first rain brings snowfall on the mountains while the plain
area (up to Mingora) receives snowfall once or more after January. The snowfall on mountains
between December to mid February are long lasting locally called Speena salie and the snow
after mid February melt quickly and known as Tora salie.
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jabba while the mountain’s tops experience lowest temperature. The daily range of
temperature is high.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
MINISTRY OF TOURISM
GEOLOGICAL REPORT ON MINGORA EMERALD DEPOSITE SWAT DOMESTIC TOURISM IN PAKISTAN SURVEY.2000 REPORT
EXPOLRATION AND EVALVATION OF MINISTRY OF TOURISM
EMERALD DEPOSITE IN THE BELT BETWEEN LODGING INDUSTRY IN PAKISTAN
SHAMOZAI & ALPURI AREAS, SWAT & MINISTRY OF TOURISM
SHANGLA DISTRICT NWFP,NOVEMBER, TOURISM IN PAKISTAN 2002
2001 MINISTRY OF TOURISM
CULTURAL TOURISM IN PAKISTAN 2002
INAM-UR-RAHMAN, ALAIN VIARO
SWAT AN AFGHAN SOCIETY IN PAKISTAN MOHAMMAD ASIF KHAN
CITY PRESS 2002 TAREKH RIYASAT SWAT AND BIBLOGRAPHY OF THE FOUNDER
OF SWAT MIAN GUL ABDUL WADUD.
JAN VAN HARSSEL
TOURISM AN EXPLORATION MOHAMMAD AMJAD SABIR
PRENTICE HALL CAREER & TECHNOLOGY 1994 EVALVATION OF SURFACE WATER RESOURCES AND
JOHANNES KALTER SEDIMENT LOAD IN INDUS AND SWAT KOHISTAN.
THE ARTS AND CRAFTS OF SWAT VALLEY AND HINDUKUSH
THOMOS & HUDSON LTD LONDON MUHAMMAD HAMAYUN AND MIR AJAB KHAN
THESES PAPER ON COLLECTION AND MARKETING OF
JOHN MOCK AND KIMBERLEY O’NEIL. MORCHELLA (MORELS) OF UTROR-GABRAL VALLEYS,
TREKKING IN THE KARAKURAM & HINDUKUSH DISTRICT SWAT, PAKISTAN
LONELY PLANET PUBLICATION
M. SAEEDULLAH YOUSAFZAI,
MAKIN KHAN; ATTRACTION OF SWAT, AKRAM PRINTING PRESS, SWAT
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, SAIDU SHARIF, SWAT 1996
INDEX
ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, 96
ARYAN, 81
ARYAN PERIOD, 89
ASSAKENOI, 81
A
A. STEIN, 99
ABDUL GHAFOOR, 83
ACTINOLITE, 137
ADANZAI, 15 AUXILIARY TUNNEL, 21
AHABARATA, 81 AYOUB BRIDGE, 134
AJJAR, 110, 129
AJJAR, 128
B
ALEXANDER THE GREAT, 81
ALIGRAMA, 80 BACTRAIN, 81
ALPINE FORESTS, 118 BADSHAH SAHIB, 84
ALPINE LAKES, 23 BAGHDERI, 21
ALPINE PASTURES, 117, 129 BARIKOT, 94
AMANDARA, 22 BATKHELA, 37, 38
ANGLING, 44, 45, 64 BAZIRA, 81, 94
APICULTURE, 141 BENTON TUNNEL, 21
PERSONAL NOTES