Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Euromonitor International
July 2015
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport I
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport II
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 1
TRENDS
Hair care in Bulgaria is a mature category saturated with products. In 2014, retail volume
sales decreased modestly in most subcategories, while average unit prices increased slightly.
Unit price growth was an interesting development given general deflationary pressures as the
Consumer Price Index (CPI) turned negative for the first time since the start of the new
century. Higher unit prices reflected a trend among consumers to purchase smaller packages.
Consumers looked for variety as they purchase multiple products within each subcategory.
In 2014, hair care current value sales increased by less than 1% to reach BGN131 million.
This was weaker than the 2% CAGR recorded over the review period, due to the combined
effects of demographic trends and deflation. The declining total population continued to
undermine retail volume in 2014. Moreover, deflation weakened retailers’ ability to prop up
value sales with price hikes. During the review period, deflation was visible for the first time in
2014.
Medicated shampoos and hair loss treatments performed well in 2014. Medicated shampoos
posted a 2% increase in current value sales to reach BGN5 million while hair loss treatments
recorded the fastest growth of 11% to reach BGN1 million. Such growth reflected stronger
demand, as retail volume sales increased while unit prices were stable. The consumer base
for medicated shampoos remained relatively narrow. Research showed that conditions like
psoriasis and seborrhoea affected around 7% of the population. Both medicated shampoos
and hair loss treatments were sold at a moderate premium compared with standard
shampoos. Within hair loss treatments, there was a clear trend towards shampoo-based
products.
Premium products continued to see low penetration in hair care, accounting for only a 2%
share of retail value sales in 2014. While premium penetration has trended upwards, this
occurred very slowly. The margins on premium hair care products were much higher
compared with mainstream products, although premium products find it difficult to justify such
a difference with claims and effects.
In 2014, current value sales of styling agents increased by 1% to reach BGN13 million. This
result reflected stable retail volume sales and a modest rise in unit pricing. Styling agents had
moderate penetration, used mainly by the younger population – 1-in-3 teenagers, 1-in-4 20-
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 2
29-year-olds and 1-in-5 30-39-year-olds. The gel format was very popular with men, while
women showed a greater preference for mousses and sprays. In 2014, mousse-based styling
agents accounted for a 24% share of retail value sales, followed closely by spray (23%) and
gel (21%).
In 2014, salon hair care posted current value sales growth of 1% to reach BGN1 million. This
modest performance was informed by unit price growth as retail volume sales dropped
slightly. In order to expand their consumer base, some cosmetic salons in Bulgaria have
launched online stores. Generally, the younger population is significantly more attracted to
salon treatments like curling and hair colouring, compared with the older population. This is
because salon treatments offer much greater variety in terms of options.
In 2014, current value sales of conditioners grew by 1% to reach BGN17 million. According to
industry sources, growth was driven by the demand for products treating dry, thin or damaged
hair, while products for normal hair lost ground. In terms of product application, rinse-out
dominated sales, particularly products for damaged hair.
Bulgarian consumers showed increasing interest in natural hair care products. This reflected a
general trend among consumers of rising interest in organic products. The solid consumer
interest in organic hair care products was illustrated by the often wide product offer in bio
stores (80-100 articles), covering the full range of hair care (colourants, shampoos, styling
agents, conditioners and perms).
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE
L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and Henkel lead hair care in 2014, with a combined retail value
share of 47% in 2014, an increase of one percentage point on 2013. L’Oréal and Henkel
posted above-average current value growth for the category, while Procter & Gamble stood
still as its performance was affected by a slowdown in standard shampoos, which generated
77% of company sales in hair care.
Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique Bulgaria recorded the fastest current value sales increase of
22% in 2014 to reach BGN1 million. Growth was fuelled mainly by conditioners and its leading
brand Avène. The domestic manufacturer Ventoni Cosmetics saw a 15% decrease in current
value sales to reach BGN0.4 million. A lack of advertising negatively affected the henna-
based colourants of the company.
International companies dominated hair care, but the retail value share of domestic brands
increased by one percentage point in 2014 to reach 16%.The key local manufacturer is
Aroma, which ranked fourth in the large colourants subcategory. More than one half of local
manufacturers were present in colourants.
In late 2013, Aroma extended the product lines of its two colourants brands – Aroma Color
and Aroma Style. Aside from new formulas based on natural oils, Aroma increased the
packaging size to accommodate longer hair styles. The new products were well accepted by
customers and helped boost company sales of colourants, particularly in 2014.
Hair care is reliant on advertising for growth. It is therefore not surprising that the top three
players in the category were the first-, second- and fifth-largest cosmetics advertisers in
Bulgaria, with budgets that amounted to almost one half of category expenditure on
advertising.
Pricing and advertising shaped the competition between premium and mass brands in hair
care. Premium brands tended to be priced at comparable or even higher levels to Western
Europe and, as a result, had very narrow appeal in Bulgaria. More importantly, premium
brands were much less frequently advertised, relying on established brand recognition. As a
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 3
result, mass brands focused consumer attention and built an image as innovation leaders.
This was crucial in a category where customers purchased smaller packaging in search of
greater variety.
Private label continued to see strong current value sales growth in 2014. Growth was
supported by the continued expansion of retailers’ outlet networks. Nonetheless private label’s
retail value share was only 1% in hair care at the end of the review period. This was largely
due to the solid position of domestic brands in the economy and mid-priced segments.
PROSPECTS
Over the forecast period, a negative demographic trend is projected to have a dual effect on
hair care in Bulgaria. On the one hand, limiting the potential for growth in volume terms and,
on the other hand, increasing the demand for hair care products as the population ages
progressively. This is expected to be particularly beneficial to colourants and styling agents.
A negative 1% value CAGR at constant 2014 prices is predicted for the forecast period. This
represents a weaker performance than the review period, which saw a marginally positive
value CAGR at constant 2014 prices. A crucial factor affecting growth is demographic
movement, with Bulgaria’s population set to shrink by 3% by 2020.
Premium brands have limited potential for penetration in the medium term. Priced at levels
comparable or higher than in Western Europe, premium hair care products have a very
narrow consumer base, especially if not supported by advertising. By 2019, premium brands
are expected to hold a 3% share of retail value sales, only a slight increase on 2014.
The competitive landscape is not expected to undergo serious transformation. Domestic
brands do not have the advertising and research and development resources necessary to
steal significant retail value shares from international brands. At the same time, private label
brands, despite strong current value sales growth over the review period, are unlikely to
significantly dent the shares of competing domestic branded manufacturers.
In 2013, Henkel introduced Syoss Oleo Intense, a new colourant positioned above its
headline Palette brand. The new product boosted company sales in 2014 and is expected to
continue to perform well into 2015. The manufacturer also introduced high-end shampoo,
conditioner and mask products under Syoss Repair. These helped Henkel to grow its retail
value share in conditioners but failed to have a significant impact in shampoos. In 2015, these
products are likely to continue to grow sales in conditioners and shampoos.
CATEGORY DATA
Table 1 Sales of Hair Care by Category: Value 2009-2014
BGN million
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 4
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 5
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 6
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 7
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 8
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 9
Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources
BGN million
2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 10
Strategic Direction
As a large manufacturer of mass cosmetics, positioned at the low-end of the market, Aroma
sees future growth opportunities in exports and foreign private label orders. Thanks to a
significant investment in new equipment and anticipated improved product quality, the
company is likely to gain retail value share in beauty and personal care in Bulgaria. However,
this would likely be a consequence of its export-orientated strategy, rather than its key goal.
Key Facts
Competitive Positioning
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 11
In 2014, Aroma ranks seventh in beauty and personal care, with a 4% share of retail value
sales.
The company’s retail value share in the industry has been stable at 4%, with marginal
fluctuation, during the review period. This largely reflects its broad product portfolio, which
balances three strong categories (hair care, skin care and oral care), two significant
categories (bath and shower and men’s grooming) and several small categories (sets/kits,
colour cosmetics, deodorants, depilatories, baby and child-specific products and fragrances).
The player is positioned within mature areas of the industry. Over the review period,
categories where the company has a strong or significant presence tended to grow at a
slightly slower value rate than the industry average. More importantly, Aroma has only a small
presence in fast-growing categories like fragrances and baby and child-specific products and
no presence in premium segments.
Aroma markets a broad portfolio of around 350 products. The company develops four brands
– Aroma, Astera, Viking and Zdrave. Aroma is the main brand, with products spread across
most categories of beauty and personal care. Astera is a brand centred entirely on oral care;
Viking is focused on men’s grooming; while Zdrave products fall within skin care.
The firm targets consumers with limited financial means and this determines its pricing policy.
In oral care, Astera’s products are positioned in the economy segment. In skin care, Zdrave is
positioned in the mid-priced range, among mass products. In men’s grooming, Viking is also
positioned in the economy segment. Finally, the Aroma brand is often positioned towards the
low-end of the price spectrum.
Aroma is a large manufacturer of mass cosmetics and it follows market trends. In October
2013, the company opened a new production plant. The investment in the new facility was
valued at BGN14 million (BGN8 million of which went on new production equipment). The key
feature of the new plant is that it significantly expands Aroma’s overall production capacity.
For example, the lines for hair colorants have a total production capacity which exceeds by
several times the volume sales of the whole Bulgarian market. At the plant opening, Aroma’s
management announced that the investment boosts the company’s ability to handle foreign
private label orders, with the aim of increasing export’s share of total revenue to as much as
70%, up from 40% in 2014.
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 12
Sets/kits 8.4% 5
Source: Euromonitor International from company reports, company research, trade press, trade sources, trade
interviews
Strategic Direction
As an export-orientated manufacturer, Rubella Beauty has modest ambitions for the domestic
market. The company is expected to maintain and enlarge its broad product portfolio and
improve product quality. It is also likely to increase its retail value share slightly. However,
these developments would chiefly represent fallout from its efforts to increase foreign private
label contracts rather than an emphasis on the domestic market.
Key Facts
Competitive Positioning
In 2014, Rubella Beauty ranks 12th in beauty and personal care, with a 2% share of retail
value sales.
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 13
The company’s retail value share has been stable at 2%, with marginal movement, during the
review period. This largely reflects the broad product portfolio of the company, which despite
some emphasis on oral care is generally well balanced.
The player is positioned within mature areas of the industry. Over the review period,
categories where the company has a presence, such as oral care, hair care, skin care,
depilatories, men’s grooming and colour cosmetics, grew at similar value rates to the industry
overall. More importantly, Rubella Beauty is not present in fast-growing categories like
fragrances, baby and child-specific products or, generally, premium segments.
The firm markets a broad product portfolio and develops three brands – Deva, Dental and Top
Ten. Deva is a female-centred brand with products in skin care, hair care, depilatories and
colour cosmetics. Dental’s products are focused on oral care while Top Ten is positioned in
men’s grooming.
Rubella Beauty has positioned its brands at the low-end of the market. The Dental brand is
found in the mid-priced/economy segments, while Top Ten and Deva are economy brands.
The company does not take risks when it comes to new product development; it introduces
cheaper alternatives to the best-selling products of international manufacturers. This strategy
predefines its lower-priced positioning.
In 2012-2013, Rubella Beauty invested BGN4.1 million in equipment for laminated tubes.
Some 60% of the investment came from EU competitiveness funding. The investment
boosted the overall production capacity and improved the company’s ability to handle orders
for the manufacture of private label products.
Strategic Direction
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 14
Key Facts
Competitive Positioning
In 2014, Solvex held a 1% retail value share to rank 19th in beauty and personal care in
Bulgaria.
The company’s retail value share has doubled over the review period. This growth reflected
significant investment in equipment upgrades and capacity expansion. Since 2008, Solvex
has invested BGN4.8 million in new machinery. In 2013, production capacity was expanded
by 30%. Over the forecast period, there are plans for further investments valued at BGN3
million, specifically for colourants, which accounted for over a 60% share of company revenue
at the end of the review period.
The company is positioned within mature areas of the market – hair care (particularly
colourants), skin care (particularly facial care) and depilatories. Over the review period, these
categories performed roughly in line with the overall industry in current value growth terms. In
the forecast period, colourants and depilatories are expected to remain in line with industry
growth while skin care is likely to grow faster. Crucially, however, the value growth in skin
care is likely to come from premium products, where Solvex is not present.
The player markets three brands – Elea, Miss Magic and Solvex. Elea and Miss Magic include
a large number of skin care products, depilatories and colourants.
Generally, Solvex seeks to position itself at the low-end of the market. Both Elea and Miss
Magic target consumers with modest financial means, although Elea is priced slightly higher
than Miss Magic.
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 15
Solvex is a small, conservative company. It follows market trends and is present mainly in
well-established product categories. This stance predefines the player’s positioning at the low-
end of the market in terms of pricing. The conservative business approach is also illustrated
by its advertising activity. In 2014, total advertising spending declined by 19%, amounting to
only 3% of total revenue.
In the second half of 2014, the company introduced a new line of Miss Magic colourants (hair
cream) and a new line of Elea depilatories with Argan oil. The firm also actively sought export
opportunities, participating in industry fairs – Beauty Eurasia (Istanbul, Turkey) and
Cosmoprof (Bologna, Italy).
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 16
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 17
Outlook
Given that beauty and personal care is expected to see slower retail sales growth in the
forecast period, advertising is likely to become an even more important competitive tool.
Companies running profitable operations or relying on strong financial backing from a
multinational parent will be well placed to dedicate more resources for advertising and gain a
competitive edge over smaller, particularly domestic, players. Some smaller players, which
maintain broad product portfolios, may be forced to reconsider their presence in categories
which are heavily dependent on advertising, such as hair care, oral care and facial care.
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 18
dropped by one percentage point to reach 67%. The relative share of the 0-14-year-old
population also narrowed, by two percentage points, to reach 14% in 2013.
Researchers single out two main reasons for the negative trend in Bulgaria’s population – low
birth rates and immigration. According to analysis by the National Statistical Office, two thirds of
the population decline between 2001 and 2011 was related to a mortality rate that exceeded
birth rates while the remaining third was related to immigration.
Demographic trends shape the development of beauty and personal care in Bulgaria. The
declining population of working age consumers (15-64-year-olds) weakens total purchasing
power significantly, as fewer and fewer people are earning salaries. Unlike in developed
Western countries, where the elderly population is generally more affluent, the situation is
reversed in Bulgaria. In a recent parliamentary debate, the Minister of Labour and Social Affairs
announced that 1.2 million retirees in the country (or just over one half of total retirees) receive
pensions under the poverty threshold set at around BGN300 per month. At the same time, the
ceiling on the highest possible retirement benefit is BGN840, which is roughly equal to the
average wage.
Outlook
The demographic outlook for the forecast period is negative. According to the forecast of the
Statistical Office, Bulgaria’s total population is projected to reach seven million in 2020, down
3% on 2014. By 2020, the 65+ population is expected to reach 1.5 million, an increase of 7% on
2014, the 15-64-year-old population is predicted to decline by 7% to reach 4.5 million and 0-14-
year-old population is projected to drop by 2% to less than one million. As a result, the relative
share of the 65+ population is set to increase to 22%, the relative share of 15-64-year-old
population is estimated to narrow to 64% and the relative share of the 0-14 population is
expected to remain at 14%.
The declining population indicates that the demand in the forecast period will be soft and
depend entirely on gains in personal disposable income. Purchasing power is likely to remain
weak, as the number of wage earners dwindles and the number of people relying on retirement
benefits rises.
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 19
Outlook
Retail volume sales of beauty and personal care are projected to see limited growth as a
negative demographic trend undermines the consumer base. As a result, over the forecast
period, sales are expected to grow mainly through higher pricing. A key problem for the main
players in this period will be brand loyalty.
Brand loyalty is low in beauty and personal care in Bulgaria, mainly for financial reasons as
consumers often switch between brands if they can find cheaper alternatives. However,
consumers also switch easily because they believe that manufacturers’ product claims should
be treated with high degree of suspicion and that producers hide potentially important
information.
In this environment, companies that invest considerable resources in research and
development and attach increasing numbers of claims to their products are at a clear
disadvantage. All it takes for consumers to abandon their brand or product and turn to
alternatives is a small difference in pricing.
A key tool for solving the consumer loyalty problem in the industry is corporate social
responsibility. CSR has the potential to strengthen brand recognition and image and improve
corporate credibility. Major players like L’Oréal, Beiersdorf, Henkel, Aroma and Oriflame are
likely to put significantly more effort into CSR activities as the nature of competition transforms
into a zero-sum game.
MARKET DATA
Table 15 Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: Value 2009-2014
BGN million
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 20
Table 16 Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: % Value Growth 2009-2014
Table 17 Sales of Premium Beauty and Personal Care by Category: Value 2009-2014
BGN '000
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
Premium Baby and Child- 984.1 1,162.0 1,347.7 1,361.5 1,777.9 1,798.0
specific Products
Premium Bath and Shower 1,720.0 2,066.3 2,484.6 2,744.5 3,000.8 3,315.1
Premium Colour Cosmetics 3,153.9 4,289.7 3,404.5 4,264.4 4,637.8 5,677.2
Premium Deodorants 521.5 552.9 615.4 664.4 695.4 1,225.0
Premium Fragrances 31,674.5 32,729.2 33,882.3 35,290.8 38,338.2 39,350.7
Premium Hair Care 1,804.9 1,849.3 2,037.1 2,476.2 2,818.1 3,057.7
Premium Skin Care 12,563.0 13,163.0 13,724.7 14,016.6 14,870.8 16,103.7
Premium Sun Care 1,113.5 1,229.7 1,393.0 1,486.4 1,337.9 1,357.4
Premium Sets/Kits 447.8 606.9 696.1 727.1 805.6 847.1
Premium Beauty and 53,983.2 57,649.2 59,585.4 63,031.9 68,282.7 72,732.0
Personal Care
Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources
Note: Premium/mass beauty and personal care sales are additionally included within baby and child-specific
products, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, deodorants, fragrances, hair care, sets/kits, skin care and
sun care.
Table 18 Sales of Premium Beauty and Personal Care by Category: % Value Growth
2009-2014
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 21
Table 19 GBO Company Shares of Beauty and Personal Care: % Value 2010-2014
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 22
Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources
Table 20 NBO Company Shares of Beauty and Personal Care: % Value 2010-2014
Table 21 LBN Brand Shares of Beauty and Personal Care: % Value 2011-2014
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 23
Beauty and Personal Care 0.1 0.1 0.5 0.7 1.1 1.3
Baby and Child-specific - - 0.2 0.4 0.5 0.7
Products
Bath and Shower 0.3 0.6 1.3 2.0 2.7 2.9
Deodorants - - 0.7 1.0 1.4 1.6
Depilatories - - 0.1 0.2 0.5 1.0
Hair Care 0.2 0.3 0.6 0.8 1.0 1.1
Men's Grooming 0.0 0.1 0.5 0.7 1.2 1.6
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 24
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 25
Table 24 Distribution of Beauty and Personal Care by Format and Category: % Value
2014
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 26
Grocery Specialists
-- Mixed Retailers 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
--- Department Stores 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
--- Mass Merchandisers 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
--- Variety Stores 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
--- Warehouse Clubs 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Non-Store Retailing 7.6 18.9 32.5 17.5 5.6 44.0
- Direct Selling 3.3 9.5 22.7 12.9 4.2 39.2
- Homeshopping 0.7 3.0 2.4 0.7 0.4 1.1
- Internet Retailing 3.6 6.4 7.4 3.9 1.0 3.6
- Vending 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Non-retail channels - - - - - -
- Hair Salons - - - - - -
Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
HC MG OC SC SU SK
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 27
Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources
Key: BC = baby and child-specific products; BS = bath and shower; CC = colour cosmetics; D = deodorants;
DP = depilatories; F = fragrances; HC = hair care; MG = men’s grooming; OC = oral care; SC = skin
care; SU = sun care; SK = sets/kits
Table 25 Forecast Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: Value 2014-2019
BGN million
2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
Table 26 Forecast Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: % Value Growth
2014-2019
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 28
Table 27 Forecast Sales of Premium Beauty and Personal Care by Category: Value
2014-2019
BGN '000
2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
Premium Baby and Child- 1,798.0 1,874.1 2,033.6 2,129.5 2,203.4 2,221.0
specific Products
Premium Bath and Shower 3,315.1 3,428.4 3,596.2 3,697.7 3,813.0 3,860.8
Premium Colour Cosmetics 5,677.2 5,844.9 5,899.7 6,010.1 6,169.2 6,235.7
Premium Deodorants 1,225.0 1,237.3 1,236.1 1,240.9 1,260.3 1,291.5
Premium Fragrances 39,350.7 39,050.1 39,194.9 39,554.6 40,013.2 40,484.0
Premium Hair Care 3,057.7 3,118.0 3,160.3 3,291.1 3,393.6 3,505.2
Premium Skin Care 16,103.7 16,760.4 17,323.4 17,928.9 18,571.5 19,204.3
Premium Sun Care 1,357.4 1,363.1 1,404.3 1,454.2 1,518.3 1,571.9
Premium Sets/Kits 847.1 862.8 878.2 897.8 918.5 937.1
Premium Beauty and 72,732.0 73,539.1 74,726.7 76,204.8 77,861.0 79,311.5
Personal Care
Source: Euromonitor International from trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews,
trade sources
Note: Premium/mass beauty and personal care sales are additionally included within baby and child-specific
products, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, deodorants, fragrances, hair care, sets/kits, skin care and
sun care.
Table 28 Forecast Sales of Premium Beauty and Personal Care by Category: % Value
Growth 2014-2019
© Euromonitor International
HAIR CARE IN BULGARIA Passport 29
SOURCES
Sources used during the research included the following:
© Euromonitor International