Clothing factory in Sri Lanka

MAS Intimates Thurulie

A fresh perspective By Peter Spirig, CEO Holcim Lanka

Sustainable construction

Quantum change and transferability

Ecological quality and energy conservation
Ethical standards and social equity
Economic performance and compatibility
Contextual and aesthetic impact

MAS Intimates Thurulie

MAS Fabric Park and MAS Intimates

Site description
Site design
Building program
Sustainable approach
Design for passive cooling
Design for lean production
Employee well-being
Indoor thermal comfort
Construction materials
Economic performance
Energy efficiency
Water management
Clean energy
Green manufacturing

Interviews

Project Team Leader for MAS Intimates Thurulie Vidhura Ralapanawe

MAS Intimates CEO and Managing Director Dian Gomes

Acknowledgements and sources

Holcim Foundation

Technical data
 MAS Intimates Thurulie

Clothing factory
in Sri Lanka
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A fresh perspective
By Peter Spirig, CEO of Holcim Lanka

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Sustainable factory design is important because industrial manufacturing
not only consumes substantial energy and material resources, but directly
or indirectly accounts for significant emissions of pollutants and greenhouse
gases. The factory as a building type has emerged over the last two centuries
as a machine for mass production, with little concern for environmental or
social effects. Factory owners and designers who wish to advance beyond
this model must dismiss all preconceptions of what a factory is.

The designers of MAS Intimates Thurulie attained a fresh perspective by

concentrating on environmental and social criteria. They created a building
in which every occupant enjoys fresh air, natural light, comfortable
surroundings, and beautiful outdoor views of intact nature. Operation of
the building is not only energy efficient but carbon neutral. Seventy five
percent of the factory’s land area is left to nature, covered with greenery
or water, and managed as a habitat for plants and animals. The approach
led to an extraordinary factory that is not a sweatshop, but a workplace
in unison with nature; not a sprawling footprint in its rural setting, but a
preserver of habitat; not a carefree consumer of energy, but a miser.

How did this noteworthy achievement come about? Although the factory
is in Sri Lanka, the story begins in the United Kingdom. Marks & Spencer
learned that its customers demanded even greater ethical and environmental
responsibility. Management responded by devising Plan A, a five-year “eco”
program for worldwide improvement, including the company’s suppliers,
one of which is MAS Intimates. The new plant that MAS Intimates planned
at Thulhiriya and built with the support of Marks & Spencer is one of the
flagship “Eco Factory” projects under Plan A. Everyone in this story is a
winner. Marks & Spencer further bolstered its image with concrete proof
of its commitment to people and to the environment; the workers at MAS

3
“This innovative structure
invites architects and
industrialists to rethink the
factory as a building type.”

4
Intimates Thurulie enjoy an exceptional working environment; MAS
Holdings has an efficient new plant recognized as a benchmark in the
apparel industry; consumers have a further source of clothing they can
trust; the government of Sri Lanka has assurance that the rehabilitation of
the formerly abandoned industrial park is well under way; the communities
near the plant have regained economic hope; and animals reign undis-
turbed on the facility grounds all night long.

It is the combination of all these benefits that makes this building a

remarkable example of sustainable design. MAS Intimates Thurulie was
designed, built, and commissioned in just thirteen months – encouraging
evidence that it is clearly possible to make significant progress toward
sustainability during our lifetime.

We must not forget that MAS Intimates Thurulie is a true proponent of

sustainability because it combines not only environmental and social
performance, but is also economically successful against stringent
competition from other, less “sustainability-minded” manufacturers in
the garment industry. MAS Intimiates Thurulie clearly shows that a
company can indeed do well by doing good.

Holcim (Lanka) Ltd is proud to have been involved in the realization of this
forward-looking building as supplier of locally-produced cement. We take
pleasure in publishing this booklet to raise awareness of the opportunities
for adopting new approaches in construction. Our thanks go to the
Swiss-based Holcim Foundation for Sustainable Construction for providing
extensive support in preparing this publication for the benefit of stake-
holders also beyond Sri Lanka.

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Sustainable construction
Quantum change and transferability
Ethical standards and social equity
Ecological quality and energy conservation
Economic performance and compatibility
Contextual response and aesthetic impact

8
Sustainable development and architecture are multifarious subjects
intertwined with many other complex issues. To make sustainable
construction easier to understand, evaluate, and apply, the Holcim
Foundation for Sustainable Construction developed a five-point definition.
These five so-called “target issues” serve as yardsticks to measure the
degree to which a building contributes to sustainable development. Three
of the five target issues align with the primary goals of the Rio Agenda:
balanced environmental, social, and economic performance. A further
target issue applies specifically to building – the creation of good buildings,
neighborhoods, towns, and cities. The final target issue recognizes the
need for significant advancements that can be applied on a broad scale.
These five target issues are explained in detail and illustrated at
www.holcimfoundation.org/target. Following is a summary of the five
criteria and how MAS Intimates Thurulie meets them.

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Quantum change and
transferability

Significant advancements in construction practice, if applied on a broad scale,

can contribute much toward global sustainability. Important advances must
be recognized as such and repeatedly applied to achieve significant change.
Practices and ideas that transfer best are those that are affordable, simple,
and broadly applicable.

MAS Intimates Thurulie claims to The design is advanced in many

be the world’s first clothing factory respects. Compared with the
powered solely by carbon-neutral average factory, it is state of the
sources. art.

The building is a visionary depar- As the flagship factory of MAS

ture from the traditional factory. Holdings, the building is a globally
It sets new standards for ethics and publicized icon symbolic of the
environmental stewardship in company’s commitment to sustain-
manufacturing. able development.

As a model building under Marks &

Spencer’s eco-initiative Plan A,
the project is an example for the
company, the apparel industry, and
other industries.

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Ecological quality and energy
conservation

Sustainable buildings conserve finite resources and minimize greenhouse gas

emissions. Good built environments are healthful for humans, animals, and
plants. Green buildings help keep the natural environment and ecosystems
healthy by reducing waste, controlling pollution, and treating land, air, and
water as precious resources.

MAS Intimates Thurulie was The compact building is carefully

designed in compliance with
USGBC standards for green build-
ings. The owner is applying for
LEED certification for the building,
which attests to outstanding over-
all environmental performance.*
Energy required for operation is
forty percent lower than that of
comparable factories. Only renew-
able and carbon-neutral energy
sources are used.
placed on the intensively planted
site to minimize environmental
impact and provide habitat for a
broad variety of plant and animal
species.
Every drop of water on the site is
carefully managed; consumption
of potable water is half that of
comparable plants.
To reduce the gray energy in the
building, the main exterior walls
are made of compressed stabilized-
earth blocks manufactured forty
kilometers from the site.

* LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental

Design) is the Green Building Rating System™ of
the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC).

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13
Ethical standards and social
equity

In many communities, sustainable construction principally involves supplying

urgent basic needs such as shelter, water, schools, and access to goods, services,
and medical care. Towns and buildings must respond to emotional and
psychological needs of people by providing stimulating environments, raising
awareness of important values, inspiring the human spirit, and bonding
society. Sustainable construction also includes fair and respectful treatment
of everyone involved during the design, construction, use, and recycling of
buildings and cities.

Health and well-being of staff are
central to the design of MAS
Intimates Thurulie. The building
offers a comfortable, healthful, and
attractive indoor environment for
all users.
As part of its service to employees,
the plant buses employees to and
from work, provides free lunches
for staff, trains workers, and pro-
vides on-site conveniences such as
medical care and banking.
The production floor is divided into
separate areas where workers
collaborate in autonomous teams,
enhancing productivity and
employee satisfaction.
The eco-factory is an ethical
response to consumers who
called for stronger environmental
stewardship.
The beautiful and stimulating
environment is uplifting; the
factory is a place where people
feel respect and dignity.

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Economic performance
and compatibility

Every building must be financially feasible to build, operate, maintain, and

ultimately remove. Sustainable buildings can help balance the distribution of
wealth by supporting the disadvantaged. This can be achieved by establishing
long-term new bases for livelihoods, stimulating local economic activity, and
paving the way to broader economic integration.

MAS Intimates Thurulie is designed The iconic building enhances the

for lean manufacturing; the factory brand equity of the manufacturer,
is profitable to operate, displaying MAS Intimates; its group, MAS
energy efficiency, operational Holdings; and its retailer, Marks &
efficiency, and good productivity. Spencer.

Because operation is very efficient, The new factory revives a historic

the payback period for the added industrial center, reestablishing a
costs of making a green building is local economic base and providing
only five years. sustainable long-term employment
for 1,300 local people.

As a motor of the new MAS Fabric

Park, the plant is central to the
further development of an efficient
manufacturing hub.

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Contextual and aesthetic
impact

Sustainable architecture is durable and adaptable. It provides an attractive,

comfortable, and functional indoor environment. It enhances its surroundings,
fitting functionally and aesthetically into the community setting. It provides
culturally relevant indoor and outdoor spaces.

MAS Intimates Thurulie offers a To achieve a comfortable indoor

pleasant and functional indoor
environment that ideally supports
manufacturing.
Harmonizing with the site, the
building expresses respect for
nature. The indoor and outdoor
spaces are woven into a green park.
Built literally of local soil, furnished
and finished with indigenous
materials such as bamboo, and
incorporating traditional Sri Lankan
architectural elements such as
courtyards, the building is of and
for the locality and culture in
which it exists.
environment economically, the
design responds to the tropical
climate with a full array of passive
cooling measures and with an
energy-efficient mechanical
cooling system.
The building is a catalyst for the
68-hectare MAS Fabric Park, planned
as a mixed-use rural settlement
that offers a high-quality environ-
ment for working and living.

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MAS Fabric Park and
MAS Intimates Thurulie

Apparel production and export accounts for two thirds of Sri Lanka’s
industrial product. The three-billion-dollar industry is the country’s largest
export earner, directly and indirectly supporting a million of the nation’s
21 million inhabitants.

Thulhiriya Textile Mills was established in 1968 as a state institution in

Thulhiriya, a rural community 65 kilometers northeast of Colombo, the
nation’s capital. In the 1970s the 68-hectare complex was the largest
mill complex in Asia, the motor of the regional economy, and a driver of
national industrial development. After the complex was privatized in
the 1980s, it declined over the following two decades and finally went
bankrupt in 2003, which devastated the local economy. The state tried to
revive the complex several times, but without success.

In 2006 the government of Sri Lanka invited MAS Holdings, the country’s
largest clothing manufacturer, to lease the complex and revitalize it as
a privately managed industrial park for textile processing and export.
Thus MAS Fabric Park was formed from the remnants of its forty year old
forerunner. The new clothing factory MAS Intimates Thurulie opened
here in 2008, initially employing several hundred people, and returning
economic prosperity to the district.

Costs in Sri Lanka are higher than those in most of Asia, so Sri Lankan
companies pick niches to survive. MAS makes sophisticated, high-value
garments such as lingerie for Victoria’s Secret and other leading brands.
MAS Intimates Thurulie manufactures lingerie exclusively for Britain’s
biggest clothier, Marks & Spencer, which operates about 750 stores in

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Europe, 600 in the UK. Marks & Spencer conducted a customer survey in
2006 that showed that 78 percent of its customers wanted to know
what materials go into the products they buy, where and how the items
are made, and what the related environmental impact is. Answering to
customer response, Marks & Spencer devised Plan A – a USD 400,000,
five-year, company-wide environmental and social sustainability program.
Plan A comprises 100 points to be achieved by 2012, one of which is
setting up model green factories that supply goods to Marks & Spencer.

Marks & Spencer invited three Sri Lankan suppliers to build such model
factories. MAS Intimates Thurulie became the first plant to be designed
in line with this plan, and is believed to be the first purpose-built green
manufacturing facility in the world. It cost seven million dollars. Marks &
Spencer financed USD 400,000 of the sum, paying for much of the green
design and for the plant’s photovoltaic system, the largest in Sri Lanka.
Although MAS invested a great amount in the factory, Marks & Spencer
pays no premium for the products, and provides no guarantees. MAS
voluntarily supports Plan A primarily because the company insists on
contributing to a sustainable world.

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Site description

Ground plan

MAS Fabric Park is located in Thulhiriya, five kilometers from a hub where
two highways intersect. The park possesses well-developed infrastructure
with roads, all utilities, and a water treatment plant. It includes zones
for industrial, warehousing, residential, commercial, institutional, and
religious uses. It also includes green belts, but none near the site.

MAS assessed the sites available in the industrial park. Although the park
is large, few suitable sites were available. The vacant buildings in the
park poorly suited the needs of the future plant. The main building of the
old mill is a dark hall measuring 500 meters by 1,000 meters. A site at
the northern tip of the park was chosen for the new factory.

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The site measures 3.32 hectares and is roughly trapezoidal, bordering
Kurunegala Main Road to the east, the Ma Oya River to the west, a
DogiEFA factory to the south, and an electrical substation to the north.
The general orientation is toward the northwest. The rolling terrain
tumbles six meters from the highest point in the southeast corner to the
lowest in the west. Slopes are steep only along the southern boundary.
The soil is laterite with high clay content.

The wooded site was previously undeveloped. A manmade pond, measuring

about 6,900 square meters, occupied much of the western half of the site.
The site had been used earlier as a recreational park, and it also had been
a deer park. Tall trees grew on some parts of the site, and tall grass and
bushes covered other parts.

The climate is typical of the lowland wet-zone of southwest Sri Lanka.

Diurnal temperature fluctuation is greater than annual or seasonal
fluctuation. Average daily temperatures vary from 23° to 30° Celsius.
High temperatures exceeding 32°occur on about 65 days a year. The region
has more than 100 rain days a year, with approximately 2,400 millimeters
per year of rainfall. Humidity averages 74 percent, but can easily approach
90 percent in early morning and late evening during most of the year.

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Site design

The thrust of the site design is to accommodate the building on one hand
and to respect nature on the other. The architects’ approach was to limit
the intrusion of the building on the land and to treat the unbuilt areas of
the site as a natural habitat. This was achieved by planning a compact
building with a footprint of only 6,780 square meters, leaving a maximum
of open space, which was either left undisturbed or improved with erosion
control and new planting. The lake and the heavily wooded western part
of the site were protected. Most large trees on the site were preserved.

The building is located near the center of the site, situated in response to
the terrain, climate, soil, and hydrology. Natural topography and drainage
patterns were preserved as much as possible by situating the building
along the contour lines and raising Building G on stilts. The footprint of
the two-story building covers about fifteen percent of the site.

The entrance to the site is at the southeast corner. Pedestrian and vehicu-
lar circulation are segregated at the entrance, and routed along efficient
pathways. The main road for trucks hugs the eastern boundary of the site,
merging midway with the shipping-and-receiving court. The employee
entrance is north of the main gate, the visitor entrance is to the northwest,
and ten parking spaces for cars of visitors and staff are to the west.
Parking for 25 bicycles is provided next to the locker rooms and showers
at the employee entrance.

All roads, walks, and terraces on the site are paved with cement-stabilized
earth instead of sealed pavement. The porous surface, including gravel
in the mix of the top layer, reduces runoff and helps recharge the ground-
water. Paving covers about ten percent of the site.

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Three quarters of the site is left to nature, including the lake, large areas of
undisturbed terrain, and the densely overgrown western part of the site.
Over 300 trees were planted, doubling the number on the site. Essentially
all areas not taken by the building, lake, or pathways were planted with
trees, most of them in the courtyards and in the green belt to the east of
the building.

Requirements for watering and maintenance are half the usual, due to
the use of efficient drip irrigation and endemic and adapted species. Rare,
endangered, and medicinal species are planted as well.

Thurulie is in the intermediate climatic zone of Sri Lanka. The site can host
plants from the country’s wet zone and dry zone. Species from both zones
are present. For example, at the top of the cascade, dry-zone plants thrive
in the strong sun. At the base, where water accumulates, wet-zone plants
thrive in the moisture. The green roofs of the building support a local grass
variety and some medicinal herbs. These plants require little maintenance.

No drop of water that enters the site is lost without providing a benefit.
Green areas are designed to absorb up to 25 millimeters of rain before
runoff begins. Erosion is controlled by porous surfaces, dense planting,
and, where necessary on steep slopes, stabilized soil. An innovative
feature is the “cascade” – a terraced slope built of cement-stabilized
rammed earth. The pattern is reminiscent of terraced rice paddies in
mountains. All runoff is channeled to the retention pond, which is the
primary irrigation source for the greenery on the site.

32
The pond was dredged and enlarged. Native fish species and indigenous
water plants were introduced to create a sustainable and diverse biotope.
With the lake and green areas, biodiversity on the site has expanded
significantly. In particular, reptiles and birds, including waterfowl, have
increased in number and variety. The facility is used during daylight hours
only. At night the site is left to nature, and emissions of light and noise
are kept low.

With abundant greenery, undulating slopes, and the lake, the site is
a beautiful setting for the factory. The vegetation helps keep the factory
cool. Shading of the building and grounds will keep the building
an estimated 1 to 2° Celsius cooler, especially when the trees mature
and the green canopy spreads.

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Building program

MAS Intimates Thurulie, a 10,000-square-meter building for 1,300 people,

is the first MAS plant designed fully in line with the MAS Operating
System, the company’s lean-production standard. In contrast to the industry
norm, in which the typical factory is a single large hall, the lean-production
standard requires smaller production areas, each containing a complete
value stream, from cutting fabric to packaging finished garments.

The production floors are free from columns and other hindrances, so that
each production cell can arrange its machinery to best suit the garments
being made. The arrangement of electrical receptacles and lighting

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Sustainable approach

Both MAS Holdings and Marks & Spencer wanted the plant to be an
iconic model for green manufacturing, to set new standards for design,
construction, and operation. Incorporating advanced technology in most
areas, the building does this in several ways.

To realize a sustainable design, the architects applied a three-point

philosophy of respect for the site, respect for users, and respect for
ecosystems. These three aims, complementing the functional and
commercial requirements for the project, served as selection criteria for
all materials and systems used in the building. The design is inspired
by traditional Sri Lankan architecture, built partially on stilts, with court-
yards, amid lush greenery.

The building is energy efficient and the indoor climate is comfortable,

a challenging combination in the tropics. It is powered by carbon-neutral
sources. The facility uses half the water of comparable factories, even
though the grounds are a veritable garden. It incorporates an anaerobic
digestion system for sewage treatment. These are all suggestions of Plan A.

40
Design for passive cooling

The building is designed for efficient production, a comfortable atmo-

sphere, and low energy consumption. Meeting these three criteria in the
tropics means mastering above all one thing – cooling. Cooling is achieved
at the plant primarily by passive design and secondarily by active systems.
Passive means include the orientation and massing of building volumes,
controlled fenestration and ventilation, shading of the building and its
surroundings, and thermal mass and solar reflectivity of the facades and
roofs.

The high angle of the sun during most of the year makes the east and
west facades the most difficult to shade. Thus, the main building volumes,
the production spaces, are aligned on an east-west axis, the north and
south facades being the largest. This solar orientation makes it easier to
block direct solar radiation.

East Elevation

42
The massing of the building volumes and the positioning and sizing of
windows permit daylight to enter as natural illumination without causing
substantial heat gain. Horizontal shading intercepts the northern sun at
midyear and the southern sun later in the year.

Thermal roof load, the largest contributor to heat gain and indoor
discomfort in the tropics, is controlled by a combination of green roofs,
photovoltaic roofs, and cool roofs. Green roofs cover 1,757 square meters
of the building. They are installed on concrete decks over shortspan spaces
such as the offices. Covered with turf and plants, the high thermal mass
of this roof absorbs heat without transmitting it into the building. The
cool roof is a lightweight metal roof assembly over the longspan produc-
tion halls. The white metal, with a solar reflectivity index of 79, reflects
four fifths of the solar energy that reaches the roof. The photovoltaic roof

43
covers 200 square meters of the building with solar panels. This system
not only prevents thermal gain, it transforms the energy into electricity.
Another passive means of keeping the building cool is to cool the micro-
climate, or reduce the ambient heat around the building.

The heat-island effect around the building is controlled by shading, by

covering parking areas, by using lighter, reflective paving around the
building instead of dark, heat-absorbent paving, and by shaded courtyards
between the building volumes. The combination of the many passive
cooling measures reduces the thermal load to a level that can be handled
by environmentally efficient cooling systems instead of power-hungry
conventional systems.

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Design for lean production

The facility accommodates 1,300 occupants, of whom nearly 1,100 are

machine operators. The architects created a worker-centered design in
which industrial processes are decentralized, according to the high-
productivity MAS lean-manufacturing standard. The production floor is
separated into five halls, creating a more intimate atmosphere. This not
only makes climate control more efficient, but also supports a complete
value chain within each hall. At the time of writing, all wings of the facility
have been built except one, the two story Building E, which will be built
in 2009.

Just-in-time manufacturing processes dramatically reduce storage space

required for raw material and finished goods in the facility, improving the
percentage of the factory floor area utilized for value-adding activities.
The production spaces are designed for an inventory-free operation – the
raw material required for the days is delivered in the morning, and
the completed and packed garments leave the floor by end of the day.
Internal layouts are planned to minimize transportation with all elements
required for the machine operators to be within arm’s reach. Space is also
allocated for systematic problem solving.

The layout provides visual connection between offices and production

floors. The plant is wireless network-enabled, and nearly all computer
users have laptops and mobile phones linked to the company phone
system, giving staff the mobility to work anywhere in the facility. In fact,
managers are encouraged to work with their teams in small groups on the
production floors. Meeting areas and lounges are interspersed throughout
the building, encouraging impromptu exchanges.

46
Employee well-being

In the interest of worker well-being, the architects paid special attention

to the work areas, particularly regarding an attractive environment,
pleasant outdoor views, thermal comfort, fresh air, and illumination,
including natural light and task lighting. Large windows are a key part
of the design, bringing the green outdoors into all working spaces. “We
feel like we’re working in a natural environment. There are trees around
and good ventilation though there is no air conditioning,” says machine
operator Harshini Maheshika.

Also in the interest of worker convenience, MAS operates chartered buses

between the plant and nearby villages. Most employees commute by bus.
Mass transit options will increase as more factories come on line in the
park. The plant also provides free meals, medical care, and on-site banking.
MAS developed “Women Go Beyond,” a program to educate and empower
women, who comprise 85 percent of the plant’s workforce. MAS has strong
community relationships and commitments to society. Mahesh Amalean,
Chairman of MAS Holdings says: “We believe strongly that if the people
we work with have their basic needs taken care of, they are freer to con-
centrate on the work at hand and bring out their best.”

48
Indoor thermal comfort

The air in production spaces and offices is cooled and exchanged by a

system of evaporative cooling units. These units intake outdoor air, filter
it, and treat it with atomized water. The air is then distributed through
ducts to the spaces, which remain under positive static pressure. Exhaust
fans help replace the air at a rate of about 40 air changes per hour. Indoor
air movement is perceptible.

When atomized water is sprayed into the warm make-up air, the water
evaporates, extracting thermal energy from the air. This reduces the
dry-bulb temperature of the air while increasing the moisture content. The
system reduces dry-bulb temperatures by up to 3°Celsius and increases
humidity by about ten percent. The amount of water spray is based on the
indoor relative humidity, and thus depends on the diurnal variation of
relative humidity on the site. More water is used at midday, and little or
none in the mornings and evenings. When the outdoor humidity is high,
no water is sprayed, and the units operate in the ventilation mode only.

The cafeteria is
naturally ventilated,
taking advantage
of its situation on
the top floor over-
looking the lake.
The green roof and
shade of trees helps
keep the space cool.
A steady breeze
usually provides
adequate ventila-
tion, eliminating the
need for mechanical
ventilation.

50
The psychrometric chart below shows the extended comfort zones achiev-
able at higher indoor air speeds. The limits of the comfort zone specified
by ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 55-2004 are at an indoor air velocity below
0.2 m/s, for PMVs of ±0.5, clothing of about 0.6 clo, and 1.2 met activity.
This data was validated by workers in the factory and through surveys
under similar climatic conditions elsewhere in Sri Lanka. Staff dress cool.
All workers wear T-shirts and may work barefoot.

The maximum observed temperature on the ground floor of Building C is

29° Celsius, which is acceptable because the indoor air velocity of 0.8
meters per second keeps the environment within the extended comfort
zone specified by the ASHRAE standard. The air velocity is maintained by
the balanced duct system, the design of which is quite different from
ductwork for mechanical-compression or vapor-absorption air-conditioning
systems.

Psychrometric
chart from the
ASHRAE Standard
Handbook
showing extended
comfort zones.
The indoor
environment at
MAS Intimates
Thurulie is well
within these
zones.

51
Construction materials

To reduce the gray energy in the building, the main exterior walls are
made of compressed stabilized-earth blocks manufactured forty kilometers
from the site. The blocks, made of local soil, sand, and locally manufactured
cement, are machine molded with a wire-cut finish and chamfered corners.
They are laid in a cement-soil-sand mortar in the ratio of 1:3:6, matching
the color of the blocks. The large blocks minimize mortar joints. The walls
require no plaster finish and are simply sealed with varnish on the interior
and exterior.

The building is framed in concrete and steel with a high recycling content.
Roofing is zinc-aluminum. Windows are metal framed. Floor finishes
include polished concrete tile, rendered and cut concrete, tile, and wood.

Bamboo is used for window blinds and various forms of sunscreen.

Non-hazardous finishes and materials are used throughout the building,
ensuring good indoor air quality, which is aided by a high rate of air
exchange. Partitions are gypsum board, and tabletops MDF. No viable
greener alternatives are available in Sri Lanka.

The construction process was managed with a special emphasis on

minimizing negative impacts to the environment. Topsoil was separated
during excavation and preserved to be used later for landscaping. To
prevent soil erosion during construction, measures were taken such as

52
planting, silt traps, and stormwater-collection ponds. Special mechanisms
were introduced to recycle construction waste, reducing the amount of
waste that went into landfills.

Aesthetics of MAS Intimates Thurulie is fashioned by the interplay of

linear structures softened by the organic forms of trees. The structure is
finished with exposed steel and ducting, with soft brown brick walls.

Vibrant purple, orange, and green accents create a dynamic feel. The pond
has a calming influence as a serene counterbalance to the busy operations
in the factory. Visuals are dominated by lush greenery. A boulder-garden
centerpiece dominates the entrance. Art and antiques add character to
the spaces, and the bare walls are adorned by colorful posters of lingerie
models and the key environmental messages of the factory.

54
Economic performance

The factory cost USD seven million to build; 25 percent more than the
conventional equivalent. MAS expects the higher construction cost to
be amortized within the first five years because of the energy-efficient
operation of the building and higher operational efficiencies based on
MOS. The factory purchases its green power at a premium, which it can
afford because it consumes less.

The additional cost of the green and ethical building creates intangible
but substantial value in the form of goodwill. The building enhances
the image of both MAS Holdings and Marks & Spencer, reinforcing the
reputations of both as responsible and ethical companies.

Employing 1,300 people, the plant revitalizes the local rural economy and
provides sustainable livelihoods. MAS plans to invest USD one million in
the park and achieve many forms of synergy among the various plants.

56
Energy efficiency

MAS Intimates Thurulie was designed for low energy consumption by

reducing power demand and by using efficient equipment. Electricity is
virtually the sole form of energy used by clothing factories in Sri Lanka,
required chiefly for production machinery, lighting, and air conditioning.
Air conditioning alone accounts for about half the consumption in typical
plants with conventional vapor-compression equipment. Using passive
design to reduce heat loads, and efficient evaporative cooling equipment,
an indoor temperature of 27 to 29° Celsius (compared with 25 to 26° in an
average factory) is maintained, while consuming only 25 percent of the
cooling energy of an average factory.

Energy consumption for lighting was reduced by maximizing daylighting

and by using well-designed systems with efficient lamps. Offices, cafeteria,
lounge, reception area, meeting rooms, and board rooms are normally
illuminated by daylight only. The glare-free illumination is usually adequate
even on rainy days. Daylight is adequate roughly from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.,
which easily covers the normal operating hours of the plant. An added
benefit of doing without artificial lights is reduced heat gain inside the
building.

In conventional factories the whole production floor is floodlit at a uni-

form high intensity. At Thurulie, aisles are illuminated with natural and
ambient light, and work areas are illuminated with task lighting – high-
efficiency T5 tubes and LED lamps mounted on the sewing machines –
focusing the correct amount of light at needlepoint. The system requires
about half the number of light fixtures. Every light fixture can be easily
repositioned and switched on and off individually as required. Sewing
machines with direct-drive servo motors were chosen for energy efficiency,
as were laptop computers.

58
Water management

Every drop of water that enters the site is carefully managed. Consumption
of potable water is about half that of comparable plants.

Rainwater that falls on the cool roofs is collected and used for flushing
toilets. The storage tanks and toilets are gravity fed, eliminating the need
for pumps. When the tanks run dry during a drought, water is sourced
from the main own system. When the tanks become full after prolonged
rain, the overflow is conducted underground into the pond. Rain patterns
are such that rainwater covers ninety percent of the flushing needs. Rain-
water that falls on the green roofs is collected, channeled through a gravel-
and-sand filter, and discharged into the pond, which naturally replenishes
the groundwater. Overflow from the pond feeds into the Ma Oya River.

Wastewater from all plumbing fixtures is treated on site in an anaerobic

plant. The system uses very little power – relying primarily on gravity in
moving wastewater and sewage to the plant using pumps only for the
last phase. The plant by itself does not consume power and generates bio
gas, which is captured and used in the kitchen. Water discharged from
the treatment plant passes through an absorption-and-filtration bed, and
the purified water is then conducted into the retention pond. Solids from
the treatment plant are used as compost.

The factory uses potable water only for cooking, washing, drinking (after
filtration), for the evaporative cooling system, and as a backup for flushing
toilets. Dual-flush toilets and low-flow plumbing fixtures minimize water
consumption. The water comes from the Ma Oya River, which borders the
park. It is purified and distributed by MAS Fabric Park. The plant is not
connected to a municipal sewer or water distribution system. No water is
used in production.

60
Clean energy

The plant uses clean energy only, and in several forms. The rooftop photo-
voltaic system with a capacity of 25.6 kilowatts generates ten percent
of the power required. Thurulie boasts the first use of net metering in
Sri Lanka. Net metering is an arrangement between the power company
and consumer whereby the consumer is credited for the electricity it
generates and feeds into the public grid. At Thurulie this happens on
weekends and holidays.

A small hydroelectric power plant connected to the public grid provides

the other ninety percent of the factory’s power. Thurulie signed a power-

62
supply agreement with the plant, the first such agreement in Sri Lanka.
Thus the plant’s two primary energy sources, photovoltaic and hydro-
electric power, are renewable and carbon neutral.

Three electric bikes are used at the plant. The plant is equipped with a
vacuum-tube system for solar water heating. Water is preheated in
the tubes and then heated in conventional boilers. Methane gas from
the sewage-treatment plant is collected for firing stoves and ovens in
the kitchen.

63
Green manufacturing

MAS Intimates Thurulie is an encouraging picture of what green manufac-

turing can be – an energy-efficient plant using carbon-neutral power from
renewable sources, and a non-polluting, resource-conserving operation in
an environmentally friendly setting. The plant strives toward zero waste
in landfills. Empty thread cones are recycled as are paper, plastics, glass,
and metal. The plant is collaborating with Marks & Spencer to develop
a fabric-defibering system for fabric waste. Fabric scraps currently go to
local craftspeople. The company seeks to reduce transport-related CO2
emissions by promoting carpooling and offering financial incentives for
employees who commute by bicycle or bus.

Looking beyond the site, the sourcing of base materials and the distribution
of finished goods come into the overall picture of the supply chain. Sri
Lanka traditionally has had to import most of its raw materials and fuels.
MAS Holdings is working to establish local sources of base materials.
Finished products are shipped to Europe by sea, the most environmentally
efficient mode of transport. Thus MAS Intimates Thurulie, as an environ-
mentally, socially, and economically sustainable factory, significantly
contributes to the greening of this international supply chain.

64
“Creating awareness and under-
standing for sustainability”
Interview with Vidhura Ralapanawe, Manager Sustainability &
Communications at MAS Intimates and Team Leader of the
Thurulie building project

67
Has this green building changed the attitude of people
toward sustainability?

Vidhura Ralapanawe: A building should always invite a person to engage,

to create curiosity. At Thurulie we wanted to create a curiosity and an
interest to look into the concept of sustainability.

This is a big philosophical challenge, because while many will broadly

articulate what it is, there is very little consensus on how radical the shift
has to be, beyond business as usual. If we need broader engagement and
enhancement of discourse, a mere green building would not have sufficed.

During the design phase, we made a conscious choice to optimize the

building-human ecosystem rather than just the building. The building
invites the active participation of its occupants for optimal functioning.
There are required behavioral changes – more climate-appropriate
clothing, being a conscious consumer of energy, i.e. switching off lights
in lavatories and workspaces when not needed.

All of this is achieved with creating awareness and understanding. All

occupants of the building get detailed training that explains the whys and
hows of the building. If we are to move into a sustainable society, we need
radical behavioral change. We could have designed a motion-sensitive
lighting system that automatically switches off when no one is around.
But if one gets used to switching off an unnecessary light at work, he or
she will do the same thing at home. And we know this is actually happening.
This is a learning center. In the first six months of operations, we have
hosted more than 1,000 people coming to see the factory – people from
the apparel industry, construction industry, industrialists, academia, com-
petitors, and students. We discuss climate change and its local impacts.
We framed our approach in broader environmental principles. We have
made it iconic and accessible, taking time to explain the principles behind
what we do, and a lot of the visitors take something back.

Thurulie has inspired many suppliers to Marks & Spencer on their own
journeys toward creating sustainable buildings. I think we have created a
transformational building.

68
MAS Intimates Thurulie is designed to meet LEED criteria for
green buildings. How did you incorporate this criteria into
the design process for this building? Do you think there is
a danger of using the criteria as a checklist to collect
certification points, but missing the unique opportunities
that each project presents?

There is the danger of LEED becoming a straightjacket rather than an

enabler, and the distinction lies in the hands of the designers. At
Thurulie, LEED came into the picture later in the design process – once
the concept, form, and structures were well defined. So LEED was
never the driver of the design. I always consider Thurulie to be first a
green building, and second a LEED building. For us, LEED was never the
ultimate test of sustainability.

LEED is set to become the de facto global standard, hence it will be

very difficult to ignore. It is a great standard and will ensure one
has looked at all aspects of sustainability within the design. When
clients start demanding specific LEED ratings it will constrain creative
expression, and force points accumulation.

LEED of course is a consensus standard, and that has its inherent

challenges. But sustainability demands that one break free from the
orthodoxy, and designers need to be daring enough to look beyond LEED.

The building footprint could have been further reduced

by adding a third floor. The production halls are column
free to give flexibility in the layout of the production
lines. Two or three columns down the middle could
have halved the span, greatly reducing the steel framing.

Factories in Sri Lanka are built as column-free single story buildings.

Two-story is itself a departure from the traditional style. Multiple
stories do pose challenges – in terms of regular goods and people
movement, as well as fire safety. Installing columns would have
reduced steel framing, but our lean processes demand column-free
spaces. It gives additional flexibility in changing the layouts of each

69
 production cell as well as the overall layout within the production hall as
well as enabling line-of-sight visibility of the complete production floor from
any one location.

While we could have worked with the current team to come up with a
suitable layout, that is merely a transient solution. The facility needs to
be able to support different product and or manufacturing processes.
Shifting away from the conventional column-free factory model could
have hindered the longer term usability of the facility.

Thurulie design is heavily reliant on trees for functionality

and aesthetics. What prompted this choice?

It’s partly influenced by the location. Thulhiriya is an area with lush ver-
dancy, and the same can be said of the homes of most employees working
in the factory. So there is a natural affinity to this type of a setting com-
pared to a sterile factory type of setting. Trees also bring in a natural
harmony to the surroundings, in addition to the cooling properties and
carbon sequestration it brings.

On top of that, there is the aesthetic impact. The fluidity of the form, and
how it interplays with the strong lines of the building, and the utter calm-
ness that the surrounding brings into the busy working environment… it is
exactly what we wanted to achieve. And in a few years time, when the
newly planted trees really spread out and thrive, this facility would be
phenomenal to behold.

MAS as an organization also has an affiliation to an aesthetic heavily reliant

on trees and landscape – an initiative personally driven by Dian Gomes.

70
The timeframe from the concept to the opening of the factory
was merely thirteen months – an outstanding achievement.
How was this possible?

Time was perhaps the biggest challenge we had. From the beginning
we understood that we had to create new rules of engagement
between the three entities – design team, contractors, and the com-
pany – if we were to deliver the project on time. Success of the project
depended on how well the relationship worked.

We were fortunate to tap into multiple synergies across the whole

process. There was a sense of experimentation and breaking bound-
aries that permeated across all parties all the way to subcontractors.
There was proactive engagement and a deep amount of trust. This
enabled us to tap into creativity at a grassroots level all the way to the
masons. Thus at the end the facility became better than we envisaged,
staying true to the original principles laid out thirteen months ago.

Still we did not leave anything to chance. The thermal control systems
were simulated and then deployed in trial spaces to tweak the system.
The materials were tested for structural properties. The rapid schedule
was not a shortcut.

We needed an exceptional team, who were brilliant in their own fields,

yet open enough to create synergies and build on each other. We were
able to create an idea of being explorers together, which was brilliantly
utilized by Ushaan Abeywickrama, General Manager of MAS Intimates
Thurulie, to ensure that the execution was exceptional and two weeks
before schedule.

71
“Opportunity to rewrite
industry standards”
Interview with Dian Gomes, CEO and Managing Director
of MAS Intimates

73
Going green is not something we widely hear from the
apparel industry. Can you tell us what it means to you?

Dian Gomes: For us, “going green” means opportunity – the opportunity to
rewrite industry standards, and bring the message of corporate environ-
mental sustainability to the fore in Sri Lanka and the world. We have
always been an ethical apparel manufacturer. We have invested heavily in
uplifting the lives of our employees, and the communities that we operate
in. We have focused on empowering our employees, especially women,
who make up the majority of our workforce. Our exceptional standards
and factory conditions, and our flagship program “Women Go Beyond,”
has received industry plaudits. Making a difference is an element of our
culture which is ingrained in the DNA of our employees.

Our focus has been primarily on social sustainability of our business, and
moving toward environmental sustainability is a natural progression. The
current global environmental challenges demand a robust response from
companies. We need to radically reassess all aspects of our business,
and understand its impacts in order to minimize them. We need a new
paradigm for the industry.

What were the origins of MAS Intimates Thurulie?

Marks & Spencer approached us with their Plan A, inviting us to set

up the first green factory under its umbrella. When I proposed this to
Deshamanya Mahesh Amalean, Chairman of MAS Holdings, his support
was wholehearted and immediate. He has always been a visionary chart-

Partnership of two
like-minded compa-
nies: Sir Stuart Rose
(M&S) and Mahesh
Amalean (MAS) at
the opening of the
new factory.

74
 ing our company’s direction years ahead. Our success was based on
unconventional relationships we developed with our key customers
and partners based on common values. This initiative fell right within
that frame and synergized with our focused emphasis on sustainability.

There were no benchmarks, no signposts along the way. It was a

pioneering effort, without any blueprints to follow, but one which
would impact the whole of Sri Lanka and beyond. A challenge, without
a doubt, but it was a natural position for us to be in. To innovate and
lead, to steer the industry in a whole new direction – that is some-
thing we have always excelled in. It was innovative and challenging, and
it was tightly coupled with sustainability – a natural fit for MAS. Our
customer relationships are always unconventional. We align ourselves
with companies that share our values of social conscientiousness.

Our relationship with Marks & Spencer broke new ground with
the construction of Thurulie. To paraphrase Marks & Spencer CEO
Sir Stuart Rose, it was really a partnership of two like-minded companies,
M&S and MAS.

The apparel industry is a fiercely competitive one, especially

in countries like Sri Lanka. How do you build the business
case for this, and especially the premium capital cost?

Our role with our customers is not transactional, but based on rela-
tionships. This project marked a beginning – we as well as Marks &
Spencer understand the end value that this brings to both our brands.
The extra cost is partly offset by reductions on operational costs,
and increased efficiency. The plant is specifically designed for MAS’s
lean manufacturing standard, MOS. MOS’s primary focus is on the
reduction of waste, including cost, whilst boosting efficiency. Thus,
initial costs may have been high but we envision this to be offset
in the future as the MOS system becomes full integrated. In a new
business reality of shrinking margins and hyper-competition this
would become a key leveraging and differentiating factor. Thurulie
is an investment, and by changing industry standards and mindsets,
it is already yielding dividends.

75
Design team Team leader: Vidhura Ralapanawe, MAS Intimates, vidhurar@masholdings.com
General manager: Ushaan Abeywickrama, MAS Intimates Thurulie,
ushaana@masholdings.com

Architecture: Sanjeewa Lokuliyana, dslokuliyana@yahoo.com

Architecture and conceptual framework: Professor Rohinton Emmanuel,

University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, Rohinton.Emmanuel@gcal.ac.uk

Civil engineering: Professor Thishan Jayasinghe, University of Moratuwa,

Sri Lanka, thishan@civil.mrt.ac.lk

Building materials: Dr. Chintha Jayasinghe, University of Moratuwa,

Sri Lanka, chintha@civil.mrt.ac.lk

Energy and cooling system: Professor Rahula Attalage, University of

Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, rattalage@hotmail.com

Ecology: Professor B. N. P. Sinhakumara, University of Sri Jayawardenapura,

Sri Lanka, sinha@eureka.lk and Nalinda Peiris, Peoples Institute for
Sustainable Development, 69/17C, Templars Road, Mount Lavinia, Sri Lanka,
singha@eureka.lk

Chemical engineering: Professor Ajith de Alwis, University of Moratuwa,

Sri Lanka, ajith@cheng.mrt.ac.lk

Project manager for construction: Akash Hettiarachchi, MAS Intimates

Thurulie, akasha@masholdings.com

General contractor: Maga Engineering (Pte) Ltd, 200, Nawala Road,

Colombo 05, Sri Lanka, www.maga.lk

Electrical engineering and lighting: Illukkumbura Automation (Pvt) Ltd,

23, Deal Place “A”, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka, iluko@sltnet.lk

Interiors: Westgate International (Pvt) Ltd, 71, Sri Saranankara Road,

Dehiwala, Sri Lanka, www.westgateinteriors.net

78
Sources “Get your green pants here,” The Economist, 31 May 2008
Address by His Excellency President Mahinda Rajapaksa at the
opening of the Thulhiriya Textile Export Complex on October 19, 2007;
www.president.gov.lk
www.masholdings.com
The Official Government News Portal of Sri Lanka
LBRdigital, 17 May 2008, pp 4-7
Holcim Awards 2007/2008 Submission Form

Photos Devaka Senevirathna, Studio Times

Acknowledgements Grateful acknowledgement is due to Vidhura Ralapanawe,

Sustainability Manager, MAS Intimates, and to Kokila Arandara and
Hashini Wickramaratne, MAS Intimates Thurulie

Address MAS Intimates Thurulie (Pvt) Ltd, MAS Fabric Park, Kurunegala Road,
Thulhiriya, Sri Lanka www.masholdings.com

79
Holcim Foundation
The Holcim Foundation for
Sustainable Construction promotes
innovative approaches to sustainable
construction. The objective of the
Holcim Foundation is to encourage
sustainable responses to the
technological, environmental,
socioeconomic and cultural issues
affecting building and construction,
regionally as well as globally –
through a range of initiatives,
including Holcim Awards, Holcim
Forum, and Holcim Projects.
* The partner universities of the Holcim Foundation
are the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH
Zurich), Switzerland; Massachusetts Institute of
Technology (MIT), Cambridge, USA; Tongji University,
Shanghai, China; Universidad Iberoamericano (UIA),
Mexico City, Mexico; and University of the
Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, South Africa.
The Universidade de São Paulo (USP), Brazil, is an
associated university of the Holcim Foundation.
80
An international competition for
future-oriented and tangible
sustainable construction projects.
The Holcim Awards recognize
any contribution to sustainable
construction – irrespective of scale –
in architecture, landscape and
urban design, civil and mechanical
engineering and related disciplines.
Prize money of USD 2 million per
three-year competition cycle encour-
ages and inspires achievements
that go beyond convention, explore
new ways and means, and draw
attention to and identify excellence.
The Awards competition is conducted
in partnership with some of the
world’s leading technical universities*
who lead the independent competi-
tion juries to evaluate entries
according to the target issues for
sustainable construction.
www.holcimawards.org
A series of symposiums for academia
and practitioners to encourage
discourse on the future of the built
environment. The Holcim Forum
supports sustainable construction
in the scientific field, among
experts in the construction sector,
business and society.
In addition to renowned specialists
from around the world, promising
international students from leading
technical universities are invited,
to represent the next generation
and to share their visions.
The first Holcim Forum was
held at the Swiss Federal Institute
of Technology (ETH Zurich),
Switzerland, in 2004 under the
theme “Basic Needs.” The second
Holcim Forum was held in 2007
at Tongji University in Shanghai,
China, under the theme
“Urban_Trans_Formation.”
www.holcimforum.org
Seed funding for building initiatives
and grants for research projects to
accelerate progress and promote
sustainable construction.
Within the framework of Holcim
Projects the Holcim Foundation
provides USD 1 million per three-
year cycle to support research in
sustainable construction and the
implementation of building proj-
ects. Projects nominated for seed
funding are evaluated according to
the target issues for sustainable
construction, and must be endorsed
by a local Holcim Group company.
The Holcim Foundation acts as
an enabler for both research
projects and building initiatives so
that, whatever their origin, exciting
and important new ideas can be
more widely implemented and
tested by a broader audience of
specialists.
www.holcimgrants.org
81
Technical data

Site statistics: Location: Thulhiriya, Sri Lanka

Climate: tropical, humid
Terrain: rolling, moderately sloped
Area: 52,434 m2
Setting: rural industrial park
Parking: 10 spaces for vehicles and 25 for bicycles

Building Construction period: September 2007 to April 2008

statistics: Building type: clothing factory
Building volume: 48,486 m3
Maximum number of occupants: 1,300
Gross usable floor area: 7,854 m2
Number of finished floors: 2
Number of basements: 0
Construction: concrete and steel framing; compressed stabilized earth block
(CSEB) exterior walls; zinc-aluminum roofing and green roofs
Construction cost: USD 2.66 million (338.50 USD/m2)
Construction cost of typical factories in Sri Lanka: 308 USD/m2
Annual operating cost: 0.3 USD/m2
Annual operating cost of comparable factories in Sri Lanka: 1.61 USD/m2
Holcim (Lanka) Ltd
413 R.A.de Mel Mawatha
Colombo 3, Sri Lanka
Phone +94 11 7800 800
Fax +94 11 2555 435
www.holcim.lk

©2008 by Holcim (Lanka) Ltd, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Holcim (Lanka) Ltd
413 R.A.de Mel Mawatha
Colombo 3, Sri Lanka
Phone +94 11 7800 800
Fax +94 11 2555 435
www.holcim.lk