How To Design Analog Filter Circuits

DIY Enclosures
1
Introduction
In this document I will try to show you how I build enclosures without any fancy tools.
Figure 1 shows my first builds as examples. As you will see, it is quite simple.
So….
- Why? I can make any dimensions (within some limits of course) and more
importantly sloped enclosures.
- Do I save a lot of money? Compared to your average 125B box? No. Especially if you
run a company (I don’t) and time is money. But, if you look at what they charge for
the few sloped enclosures on the market, I’d say yes.
- Does the finished result look professional? Yes and no. In my opinion the boxes look
great if you take your time and work on them. But they are handcrafted and at some
level they cannot compete with machine made boxes. And the inside will give you
away. :)
Figure 1. Finished boxes using the techniques according to 2.1.1 and 4.
2
1 Equipment
1.1 Tools
I use very basic tools to make the enclosures:

● Saw: I actually prefer hand saws. A jig saw is more unpredictable and the blade easily
gets clogged. And hand sawing aluminium is not hard at all!
● File and rasp
● Drill and drill bits
● Thread tap
● Screwdriver
● Rivet pliers (If you don’t have one- get one! Very cheap, very nice to have.)
● Vice (optional)
● Bending brake (optional - but then you need at least a vice), see Appendix.
1.2 Material
● Aluminium sheet. 1.6 mm (is easier to work with) or 2 mm (stronger).
● Aluminium s quare tube. Your prefered enclosure width determines the dimensions. I
recommend 60x60 or 70x70 with a wall thickness of 2 mm.
● Aluminium angles. 10 x 10 to 15 x 15 mm.
● Wood, e.g. oak. Thickness: 8 mm for type 1 and 15 mm for type 2. Your box size
determines the length and width.
● Screws and rivets.
3
2 Sloped enclosures - type 1
The enclosure is depicted in figure 1 (right).
2.1 The Top

Start with the top. I have made tops in two ways: from flat aluminium sheets and from square
tubes.
2.1.1 Flat aluminium sheets
I like the result better compared to using the square tube, since the corners of the 90 degree
angles are more rounded. But it is a lot easier to mess up and getting the whole thing skewed.
1. Cut out a trapezoid shape from the sheet, see figure 2. Just decide your dimensions
and take the bend radius into account. The latter could be determined on some scrap
material of the same type. In my case the corner builds 4 mm from the bending line
(outer radius).
Figure 2. Trapezoid cut out from an aluminium sheet.
2. Bend the sides with a bending brake (along dotted lines in figure 2).A vice jaw bender
set is used in figure 3. However, I found it a bit unreliable since nothing really
prevents it from moving around (which will ruin everything). So instead I strongly
recommend using the two bending brakes described in the appendix instead.
4
Figure 3. Bending.
Done!
2.1.2 Square tube
Figure 4 shows a 70x70x2 mm square tube. Using these is definitely the easiest way. Corners
a bit too sharp, but I still think it looks great.
I got my square tubes from Metalshop (metalshop.co.uk), also at ebay
(http://www.ebay.com/usr/metalsshop?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2754). The prices and
shipping charges are reasonable. I purchased 40x40, 60x60, 70x70 and 80x80 mm, all 2 mm
thick.
Figure 4. Square tube.
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1. Figure 5 shows a drawing of what we want to achieve. In my opinion a good value for
angle b is 5-10°. You can use “"Sloped enclosure calculations.xls" (look through the
archive) to calculate the angle and dimensions.
Figure 5. Schematic drawing of the box (side view).
2. To make your top, just draw the box to your dimensions and start cutting (Figure 6-8).
Figure 6. Tube prepared for cutting.
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Figure 7. Tube prepared for cutting, side view.
Figure 8. Tube prepared for cutting, detailed view. Dimensions (as an example): A: 135 mm,
B:47 mm and C: 32 mm resulting in angle b: 6.3° and D: 136 mm.
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3. Use your files to make everything straight and even. Done! - See figure 9.
Figure 9. The result.
The box in the pictures is quite large. Of course you can change the lengths and the two
heights as you wish, but:
- To stick a battery behind the footswitch you need C to be at least 30 mm.
- To fit a normal 3PDT foot switch you need the height where you drill the hole at least
26 mm.
(Both calculated with a 2 mm thick base piece and some minor margins).
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2.2 The base
The base is basically just a rectangle that you bend according to figure 10.
Figure 10. Drawing of the base. Top view (top) and side view (bottom).
1. I use a hand saw and a file to get it straight (figure 11 and 12). Remember to leave
some margins for the paint coat. Some paints (e.g. hammertone) build quite a lot.
Make it at least 1 mm narrower than the inside of the top.
I really don’t have the precision (yet) to make the dimensions perfect before
bending, so I make it longer than I need. Then I work on A and C (see figure 10) with
a file to make the base fit the top.
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Figure 11. Cutting the base with a hand saw. Just keep watching the line!
Figure 12. The result. Not too bad. Just needs some work with the file.
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2. Since your bending line will be on the inside, the bent corner “builds sideways”. How
much depends on the thickness of the metal and the design of your bending brake. I
advise you to determine it empirically on some scrap. In my case (with a 1.6 mm
aluminium sheet) it builds +4 mm / corner (d in figure 10). Hence, if I want a 128 mm
long bottom piece I draw my bending lines 120 mm apart.
If your bending brake allows it (mine doesn’t; the piece needs to be longer), you
can fasten A and C when bending. That gives more control not make B too long.
3. Make sure that your base is 90° to the brake before bending (Figure 13)!
Figure 13 Make sure the piece is fastened and absolutely straight (90°).
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4. It may be difficult to estimate the correct angle when bending. Go slowly and
compare with your top (Figure 14).
Figure 14. Bend away. Compare the angle with your top!
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5. Attach the two aluminium angles to the base with rivets, see figure 15. It is easier if
you use double sided tape to secure it.
This might not be the most beautiful way to do it, but it's easy and works well.
For a more professional look you would cut out the angles from the base piece itself.
However, you will waste a lot more aluminium and you have to adapt your bending
brake to fit the angles perfectly.
Figure 15. Angles attached using rivets.
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2.3 Assembly
The top and base are held together with four M3 screws, see figure 16.
1. Tape the top and the base together the way you want it and drill the screw holes
through both the top and the angles on the base with a 2.5 mm bit.
2. Enlarge the holes in the top with a 3.2-3.5mm bit.
3. Use a M3 threading bit to make the screw holes on the base. Though it's easy to
make threads in aluminium, it's not the most durable material. An alternative is to
use threaded rivet nuts. See figure 17.
Done! - See figure 18.
Figure 16. Screw holes and threading.
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Figure 17. Threaded rivet nuts
Figure 18. The result.
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3 Sloped enclosures - type 2
I have only done this once so bear with me.
1. Use a square tube and mark the cuts you are going to make, see figure 19 and 20.
You can use "Sloped enclosure calculations.xls" (look through the archive) for
guidance. Note that these calculations are to be seen as approximate as you cannot
bend to make the sides meet perfectly.
Figure 19. Schematic drawing . A and E is the face of the box, i.e. square tube wall.
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Figure 20. Measuring.
2. Cut the sides B, H and K, see figure 19. Note that A and E is the face of the box.
3. Cut out the sector between J and K, see figure 19 and 21. Remember that it is more
important to make the two sides identical (well, as similar as possible) rather than
following the blueprint. Don't try to cut D and G just yet.
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Figure 21. Cutting out the sector.
4. Bend the enclosure. It's a bit tricky. I used a piece of steel, aligned it to the bending
line and clamped it down with a wood block, see Figure 22.
Figure 22. Bending.
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5. Draw and cut G as an extension of F, see figure 23. I ended up not cutting D
according to the blueprint since I liked it being 90° to E. It’s a matter of taste of
course.
Figure 23. Drawing G not until now makes sure its 180° to F.
.
6. The base is made in the same way as above (2.2).
7. If you shape the sector with a needle file you might want to leave it like that, but I
filled the gap with chemical metal (no, it doesn't have anything to do with metal)
with a strengthening piece of aluminium on the inside.
Done! As can be seen in figure 24 it’s not an enclosure to etch, but with some paint it will
look nice.
Figure 24. The finished result.
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4 Wood side enclosure - type 1
Boxes with wood sides look very nice and are easy to build (see figure 1, left).
4.1 Base
Start with the base.

1. Cut it from a square tube. I made it ~100 mm long with sides ~20 mm high. The
width is determined by which tube you use, see figure 25.
2. Drill four holes in the sides, ~15 mm from the base, see figure 25.
Figure 25. The base.
20
4.2 The top
The top is a rectangle bent as shown in figure 26.
Figure 26. Schematic drawing of the top. The numbers indicate dimensions I’ve used with good
results.
21
1. Cut a rectangle from your aluminium sheet. Make it [Width of the base - 1] mm wide. Shape
it with a file till it is perfectly straight (figure 27).
Figure 27. Make sure the rectangle is symmetrical and straight.
2. Start by bending the straight angles a, b and e.
3. Now start bending c and d. Go slowly, check your progress and measure the angles. It
is best if you bend both angles little by little until you are satisfied (figure 28).
Figure 28. Top after bending.
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4. To make the base and the top fit you need to make 2 mm recesses in A and F, see
figure 29 and 30.
Figure 29. Recesses for the base.
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Figure 30. Top and base.
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4.3 The sides
1. Secure two pieces of the wood (I have used 8 mm oak) with double sided tape (figure
31). Do not separate the pieces until you are finished with paragraph 4! In this way
you ensure two identical sides.
2. Place the top on the wood and draw its profile.
3. Extend the profile 1-2 mm, see figure 32.
4. Cut the wood and shape it with a rasp and file. Yes, of course it is easier with a
circular saw or similar, but you can do it by hand!
Figure 31. Secure the two pieces of wood with double sided tape.
Figure 32. The top profile with a 1 mm offset.
25
4.4 Assembly
1. Drill screw holes through the base and the top, see figure 33. As described above:
- Enlarge the holes in the base with a 3.2-3.5 mm bit.
- Use a M3 threading bit to make the screw holes on the base. Though it's easy to
make threads in aluminium, it's not the most durable material. An alternative is to
use threaded rivet nuts.
Figure 33. Base with screw holes.
2. If you want, this is the time to paint the base and apply finish to the wood. Tru-Oil is
easy to apply and gives a nice finish.
3. Screw the base and the wood sides together. For 8 mm wood, use 8 mm screws (the
2 mm aluminium walls will give you thenecassary margin). This calls for a short
screwdriver or a ratchet. Pre-drilling is strongly recommended.
Done! - See figure 34
26
27
For my first build (figure 1, left) I used a different construction using angles to attach the
sides, see figure 35. I don’t recommend this version since it makes the interior a lot less
accessible.
Figure 35. Wooden side attachment using aluminium angles.
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5 Wood side enclosure - type 2
This might be the most obvious way to make wood side boxes. However, even though it
looks quite professional I don't like this type of enclosure for two reasons:
- The thick wooden walls are protruding into the box, making the inside much smaller than in
type I.
- It requires a router. It's not a super fancy tool, but not everybody has one and the idea here is
to keep it simple. (Don't you just hate it when a tutorial, after 9 miles of introduction, drops
something like "Place the piece in your CNC router"?)
Anyway, this is how I did it:
1. Make the top as described in paragraph 4.2.
2. Prepare and cut the wood sides as described in paragraph 4.3, but use 15 mm wood
this time, see figure 36.
Figure 36. Shape the wood to match the top.
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3. Use a router to trim a recess, 2-3 mm in from the edge and 8 mm deep (with the
wood on its side), see figure 37. See to that A, C, D and F in figure 26 gets support
from the wood.
Figure 37. Trimming the edges.
4. Cover the bottom with a rectangular plate.

Done! - See figure 38.
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31
6 Appendix - diy bending brakes
6.1 No bending brake
If you are building for example sloped enclosures using a square tube you only have to make
two angles on base. For this I think you will get away with a vice doing something like
shown in figure 39.
● Place the piece (A) to be bent between four steel brackets (B) - two above and two
below the bending line. Note the gap (C) between the upper and lower bracket;
without it you will not be able to bend anything. Make sure everything is aligned as
straight as possible and 90° where it is supposed to be. Use double sided tape keep
things in place.
● Fasten the sandwiched piece in a vice so that the brackets sits above the jaws (D).
● Secure the upper brackets with a clamp (E). Place it as low as possible! In figure 39 it
is unnecessarily high (to make things more visual).
● And bend.
But, building a bending brake is quite easy. Or buying a simple one is not that expensive.
Figure 39. Bending without a bending brake.
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6.2 Bending brake
The bending brake is depicted in Figure 40 (top), 41 (side) and 42 (bottom).
● The base of the brake is two wood pieces (A), 90x45 and 90x70 mm, respectively.
● Two steel angles (B) are screwed to the wood.
● The two pieces are joined with three hinges (C).
● Handles (D) are screwed to the wood.
● A third angle (E) holds the piece to be bent by screwing the bolts (F) into threaded
holes in B.
Figure 40. DIY bending brake, top view.
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Figure 41. DIY bending brake, side view.
Figure 42. DIY bending brake, bottom view.
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6.3 Press brake
The base for this brake is a vice brake tool (see figure 43). When using them as intended they
tend to move around on the vice (only fastened with magnets) so I decided to make a press
brake from them instead.
The brake is depicted in Figure 44 (full view), 45 (top) and 46 (detailed view).
● The brake is mounted on a wood board (A)
● A metal frame (B; the legs from an old lab bench) is mounted using four steel angles
(C) allowing it to move. Note a piece of wood (D) for some elevation is necessary
toget the right angle.
● The vice brake tool (E) is mounted on an iron angle (F) in turn mounted on the steel
frame (B).
Figure 43. Vice brake.
35
Figure 44. Press brake, full view.
Figure 45. Press brake, top view.
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Figure 46. Press brake, detailed view.
37

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DIY​ ​Enclosures

I​ ​use​ ​very​ ​basic​ ​tools​ ​to​ ​make​ ​the​ ​enclosures:

2.1​ ​ ​The​ ​Top

Figure​ ​2.​ ​Trapezoid​ ​cut​ ​out​ ​from​ ​an​ ​aluminium​ ​sheet.

2.1.2​ ​ ​Square​ ​tube

Figure​ ​4.​ ​Square​ ​tube.

Figure​ ​5.​ ​Schematic​ ​drawing​ ​of​ ​the​ ​box​ ​(side​ ​view).

Figure​ ​6.​ ​Tube​ ​prepared​ ​for​ ​cutting.

Figure​ ​9.​ ​The​ ​result.

Figure​ ​15.​ ​Angles​ ​attached​ ​using​ ​rivets.

Figure​ ​16.​ ​Screw​ ​holes​ ​and​ ​threading.

Figure​ ​1​8​.​ ​The​ ​result​.

I​ ​have​ ​only​ ​done​ ​this​ ​once​ ​so​ ​bear​ ​with​ ​me.

Figure​ ​22.​ ​Bending.

Figure​ ​24.​ ​The​ ​finished​ ​result.

Start​ ​with​ ​the​ ​base.

Figure​ ​25.​ ​T​h​e​ ​base.

Figure​ ​28.​ ​Top​ ​after​ ​bending.

Figure​ ​29.​ ​Recesses​ ​for​ ​the​ ​base.

Figure​ ​33.​ ​Base​ ​with​ ​screw​ ​holes.

Figure​ ​35.​ ​Wooden​ ​side​ ​attachment​ ​using​ ​aluminium​ ​angles.

Figure​ ​36.​ ​Shape​ ​the​ ​wood​ ​to​ ​match​ ​the​ ​top.

Figure​ ​37.​ ​Trimming​ ​the​ ​edges.

4. Cover​ ​the​ ​bottom​ ​with​ ​a​ ​rectangular​ ​plate.

Figure​ ​39.​ ​Bending​ ​without​ ​a​ ​bending​ ​brake.

Figure​ ​40.​ ​DIY​ ​bending​ ​brake,​ ​top​ ​view.

Figure​ ​42.​ ​DIY​ ​bending​ ​brake,​ ​bottom​ ​view.

Figure​ ​43.​ ​Vice​ ​brake.

Figure​ ​45.​ ​ ​Press​ ​brake,​ ​top​ ​view.

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DIY Enclosures

I use very basic tools to make the enclosures:

2.1 The Top

Figure 2. Trapezoid cut out from an aluminium sheet.

2.1.2 Square tube

Figure 4. Square tube.

Figure 5. Schematic drawing of the box (side view).

Figure 6. Tube prepared for cutting.

Figure 9. The result.

Figure 15. Angles attached using rivets.

Figure 16. Screw holes and threading.

Figure 18. The result.

I have only done this once so bear with me.

Figure 22. Bending.

Figure 24. The finished result.

Start with the base.

Figure 25. The base.

Figure 28. Top after bending.

Figure 29. Recesses for the base.

Figure 33. Base with screw holes.

Figure 35. Wooden side attachment using aluminium angles.

Figure 36. Shape the wood to match the top.

Figure 37. Trimming the edges.

4. Cover the bottom with a rectangular plate.

Figure 39. Bending without a bending brake.

Figure 40. DIY bending brake, top view.

Figure 42. DIY bending brake, bottom view.

Figure 43. Vice brake.

Figure 45. Press brake, top view.