CHANEL.

COM

NEW FOR LIPS AND CHEEKS

 Regulars
18 EDITOR’S LETTER
20 CONTRIBUTORS
29 LENS
150 LAST LOOK

Shop
38 FUTURE PERSPECTIVE
Switch things up with a pair
of outré frames
44 GONE GIRL Retreat into the
season’s minimalist agenda
54 SEEING CLEARLY Is plastic
as transparent as it seems?

Beauty
63 TOMORROWLAND Graphic
lines and metallic detailing offer
a modern take on makeup
68 TREND REPORT The beauty
guide to the galaxy
70 LIGHT SPLASH A new
perfume embrace the sunrise
72 THE DIGITAL DETOX It may
be time to disconnect
74 SPACE ODDITY New colors
and textures take you out
of this world
80 NEWS The latest releases

89
New Tribe
84 THE HEALING HOUSE
If you’re in need of more than
a massage, head to Spain

13
102
Speaking Volumes
Jewelry
89 NEW TRIBE Emerging Middle
Eastern female jewelers
96 JEWELS WITH A CONSCIENCE
The ethical jewelry industry
aims to change the way we shop
98 TRENDS Gilded cuffs and
galactic watches
Features
26 FILM’S NEW HEROES Producer
Jehane Noujaim makes movies
to empower women
52 IT GIRL Kuwaiti designer
Sama Al Wasmi
102 SPEAKING VOLUMES
Dior artistic director Maria
Grazia Chiuri meets model and
activist Adwoa Aboah
112 TAKING OVER A new crop of
designers is leading the legacy
fashion houses
14
120 THE INVISIBLE MAVERICK 112
Two exhibitions dedicated to
Martin Margiela remind the Taking
world why an original point Over
of view is forever in fashion
124 A CULTIVATED OBSESSION The
region’s most groundbreaking
female art collectors
Living
133 HIDDEN REFUGE Dsquared2
designers Dean and Dan Caten
open a private guest house
in Milan
140 MOOD BOARD Welcome
to the jungle
141 CAFÉ SOCIETY Pasticceria
Cova opens in Dubai
142 HAPPY GLAMPERS The
simple camping experience has
had a reinvention
146 INDEX Forward-thinking
design and cosmic referencing
 ٤٢
Debutants
Arabic
13 EDITOR’S LETTER
15 CONTRIBUTORS
16 THE STORIES WE WEAR Livia Firth
on her activism and family
18 TRENDS Blazers and old
favorites reinvented
٢٢ BALANCING ACT SS18 is all
about balance: confident masculine
silhouettes and feminine details
٢8 SHOE-IN Fashion’s favorite
footwear hits the ground running
3٢ IT GIRLS Actor Sarah Abdelrahman
and designer Timi Hayek
3٤ IN THE FAST LANE How intermittent
fasting can change your lifestyle
36 DORRA ZARROUK The Tunisian
actor opens up
٤٢ DEBUTANTS The new generation
58 FASHION IN THE KINGDOM
Her Highness Princess Noura bint
Faisal Al Saud on the first Saudi
Arabia fashion week
6٢ PAINT IT BLACK Embrace relaxed
tailoring and deconstructed silhouettes
70 CITIES OF THE FUTURE
Architect Hala Younes on the
next step in design
76 EVENTS Vogue and
Aquazzura celebrate in Paris
78 HOME BY DESIGN The cosmopolitan
home of Dubai-based architects
Cecilia Morisi and Andrea Sensoli

6٢
Paint
It Black

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL ARCHER, CASS BIRD, FRANCESCO SCOTTI, HAO ZENG, MIKAEL JANSSON

On The Cover
PHOTOGRAPHY CASS BIRD FASHION DIRECTOR KATIE TROTTER MAKEUP HANNAH
MURRAY ADWOA ABOAH WEARS (LEFT) DRESS, JEWELRY, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
(RIGHT) DRESS, EARRINGS, GUCCI

16
Editor’s Letter‫ﻛﻠﻤﺔ اﻟﺘﺤﺮﻳﺮ‬

ADWOA ABOAH
WEARS JUMPSUIT,
SKIRT, BOOTS,

Changemaker
JEWELRY DIOR

I remember the first time I saw Adwoa Aboah as if it was yesterday. It was on Avenue Georges V, in
Paris, and the model was perching in a doorway, calmly smoking a cigarette. Due to the proximity
to Dior’s headquarters, I imagine she was waiting for her fitting before that season’s show. A few
months later, I met her backstage at Fendi, in Milan, after her agents and I agreed that Aboah would
be our next cover star. In a short time, her well-articulated words gave me the reassurance that she is
the kind of woman Vogue Arabia stands for, especially in an issue dedicated to the future of fashion.
More than just a pretty face, Aboah is the founder of Gurls Talk, a space that, with the help of social
media, a website, and events, aims to celebrate female empowerment by giving women various
platforms for discussion.
When I was brainstorming with the team about Aboah’s feature, it was clear to me that we needed
another strong female to interview this month’s cover star. I am deeply honored that Maria Grazia
Chiuri, Dior’s artistic director, was kind enough to interview her and uncover so much more about
Aboah’s engaging world.
The first woman at the helm of Dior in more than 70 years, Chiuri is a personal hero of mine, with
a body of work that matches my belief that fashion is more than just clothes – it can serve as a catalyst
for change. I’m happy to see that more and more designers, models, and other professionals within
the industry are using their visibility to fight for what they believe is right.
It is also an incredible honor to share that Her Highness Princess Noura bint Faisal Al Saud chose
Vogue Arabia to exclusively reveal her exciting plans for Saudi Arabia’s first-ever fashion week. The
groundbreaking event will take place mid-April and will include a mix of well-established regional
names and international designers. The future of fashion in the Arab world has never looked so bright.
PHOTOGRAPHY CASS BIRD

Manuel Arnaut

18
Contributors‫المساهمون‬

MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI
The first woman to helm Dior as artistic
director says, “Heritage is important, but I also
want to move this house forward. My vision
is something that is easier to wear.” Raised
in Rome by a seamstress mother, Chiuri
developed an interest in design from an early
age. Her passion saw her go on to study at the
Istituto Europeo di Design. She joined Fendi
in 1989, spending 10 years at the brand before
moving to Valentino as accessories designer.
She was named co-creative director of the
brand with her creative partner, Pierpaolo
Piccioli. Her tenure at the Italian house saw
Valentino pushed to the forefront of fashion
again, but it’s as artistic director at Dior that
she’s found her feminist feet and reinvented
the brand for the 21st century. Her “We
Should All Be Feminists” T-shirts became a
must-have for celebrities, with a percentage
of the proceeds going to Rihanna’s non-profit
Clara Lionel Foundation. She interviewed
cover star Adwoa Aboah (p102) to talk about
confidence, happiness, and empowering the
next generation of women.
CASS BIRD
The New York-based, Los Angeles-
born photographer shot this
month’s cover. She graduated from
Smith College and started her
career taking headshots of aspiring
actors. She’s since worked with
Jimmy Choo and Calvin Klein,
and has shot some of the biggest
names in art, pop culture, and
fashion, including Jay-Z, Karen
Elson, Andrew Garfield, and
Michelle Obama. Her approach –
which is always about “connecting
with people” – has differentiated
her fresh aesthetic and expanded
the boundaries of femininity and
masculinity. “I like to create an
environment where we can take
physical and emotional risks –
feel free,” she says.

20
Ild�i
www.adler.ch
 M ANUEL ARNAUT
Editor-in-Chief
Managing Editor
ALEXANDRIA GOUVEIA

Fashion Director Art Director

KATIE TROTTER DONNA WILLIAMS

Arabic Editor-at-Large
HALA KAWSARANI
Features Director
CATERINA MINTHE

Art Editor Beauty Editor

ZIYAAD BASSIER ALEXANDRA VENISON
Picture Editor Copy Editor
BJÖRN SCHÜTRUMPF CHRISTINE VAN DEEMTER
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CLAIRE CARRUTHERS AHMED ABDEL-FATTAH
Assistant to the Editor-in-Chief Editorial Coordinator
RESHMI RAVEENDRAN MOHAMMAD HAZEM REZQ

Contributors
NOURIAH AL SHATTI, DJINANE ALSUWAYEH, MARIE BÄRSCH, MARC BEAUSSART, DAN BELEIU, CASS BIRD, ARCHER DANIEL,
GIEL DOMEN, MARYAM EISLER, LAUREN HASLAM, LEKIEWICZ INA, MARIA JELENAH, ANNA KATSANIS, DANNA LORCH,
KARINE MONIÉ, ADBALLAH SABRY, GRAHAM TOOBY, KENNETH VAN DE VELDE, HAO ZENG

Editorial Interns
TAWFIQ ALI, SREE LAKSHMI MANOJ, MADIHA SHEIKH, DANICA ZIVKOVIC

VOGUE.ME
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PHILIPPA MORGAN
Online Writers
KHULOOD AHMED, KHAOULA GHANEM

Head of Digital Digital Advertising Operations

BOBBY NEMAEI DEAN MASCARENHAS

Arabic Translators
NIRMIN AL-AWADI, SUMMER GHANEM

MANAGEMENT & COMMERCIAL

SH ASHI MENON
CEO and Publisher
Chief Operating Officer
NICK GONZALEZ

Commercial Director (Print) Commercial Director (Digital)

RANA HATEM DIYA AJIT
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US Sales Representative Operations Executive
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Film’s

NEW HEROES
Egyptian Jehane Noujaim, executive producer behind this year’s Academy Award-
nominated film The Breadwinner, makes movies to empower women and girls
As told to CATERINA MINTHE
 ‫في الواجهة‬Upfront

“w hen I read the script for

The Breadwinner – the
story of an Afghani girl
who wants to save her
father from prison – I
was pregnant with my daughter. I was already
starting to think about the images and cartoons
she would see in the world, growing up as a
young Egyptian girl. I knew this movie was one
I would love her to watch.
Director Nora Twomey was very concerned
Having FEMALE
ARAB VOICES shaping
stories is the only solution
to envisioning a better
future for our region

with telling the story in an authentic way. She

was focused on bringing on the right advisors,
to get the right music, details, everything. At
that time, my husband, Karim Amer, and I had
just finished making The Square. Our story about the Egyptian
revolution had been nominated for an Oscar and Angelina Jolie
had seen it. When we met Angelina, she told me that if I had
another project I would like her to look at, she would. She has been
to Afghanistan multiple times and cares deeply about the people
there. We showed her the script for The Breadwinner and she asked JEHANE NOUJAIM
so many questions about who would play the voices, how would WITH KARIM AMER
it feel authentic, and how would we get it to girls’ schools across AND TED SARANDOS
WITH THEIR CREATIVE
the region. We are working on raising funds for that important ARTS EMMY AWARDS
outreach now. FOR THE SQUARE, 2014
Being nominated again for an Academy Award was exciting.
It revealed that a witty, imaginative girl from Afghanistan could In terms of the films we make – whether about the internet
capture hearts and minds. It also showed that seeing the world bubble (Startup.com, 2001) or illiterate women studying to become
through the eyes of a little girl who lives halfway around the world solar engineers in India (Rafea: Solar Mama, 2002), at their core,
is more relevant than ever – even in Hollywood. these are stories about characters who are imagining and believing
I grew up in Kuwait, in the late 70s and early 80s. At that in a world that is different from the one in which we live. They are
time, Indian movies were the only films showing on Kuwaiti TV, thinking beyond boundaries and conceiving a different future. Art
while reruns of old American movies were playing in Egypt. The can provide a platform for people who inspire that. These are the
first time I felt like I saw a film that was not one of these gigantic kinds of people who move
IN THE LEAD

Hollywood productions was when I was in college. I originally Egyptian filmmaker me and who I want to shed
went to Harvard to become a doctor, but I also took photography Jehane Noujaim has been a light on.
classes, and that’s when I realized the power of an image. I began directing and producing In terms of the company,
film school at Harvard and dropped pre-med. My father was documentaries that reflect the we have now partnered
skeptical that I could support myself with film. My mother, on world for two decades. She with and have the backing
the other hand, is in child education and is a strong believer in won the TED Prize in 2006 of very strong women.
nurturing what you love. for Control Room, which My hope is to bring more
My production company launched 20 years ago, at a time when documented news coverage women from our region
reality shows were exploding. I wanted to make documentaries, of the Iraqi war. Her film The to finance some of these
which involve immersing yourself in a story. I’m half American and Square, which depicted the films. Stories shape the way
half Egyptian and I’m constantly in-between both worlds. I have felt Arab Spring in Egypt, earned people think and the more
like the hopes and fears of our region were not being understood. her a second Directors Guild support and muscle we have
Especially after 9/11, there was so much tension between these two of America award, following from our part of the world,
sides of the world that have made me who I am. In 2004, I directed the success of her 2001 the more stories and light
the feature-length documentary Control Room, about world news documentary, Startup.com. will be shone on diversity
organizations that covered the Iraq war. One result of this film was Along with Angelina Jolie, and hope. Having female
that in 2006, I became the first woman to win the TED Prize. The she is an executive producer Arab voices shaping these
PHOTOGRAPHS GETTY, REX

prize grants your wish to the world. My wish was: for one day a year, of The Breadwinner, an stories is the only solution to
let’s bring the world closer by curating a program to be watched Oscar-nominated animated envisioning a better future
simultaneously around the globe. In May 2008, our four-hour film made by women. It won for our region and ensuring
program was broadcast in 1 800 self-organized locations in more best independent feature at that the rest of the world
than 100 countries. From that wish, TEDx was born. the 2018 Annie Awards. sees it in a different way.”

27
 Hubert de
Givenchy, the
master and
the man, is
remembered
by his close
friend Duchess
Claudine
de Cadaval
Words CATERINA MINTHE

Givenchy
AND I
 HUBERT DE GIVENCHY
AND DUCHESS CLAUDINE
DE CADAVAL SHARED
A DECADES-LONG
FRIENDSHIP BELOW
THE DUCHESS WITH
YUL BRYNNER ON HER
WEDDING DAY, WEARING
GIVENCHY OPPOSITE
THE DESIGNER’S MUSE,
AUDREY HEPBURN
O
verlooking the lush landscaped gardens of
her palace in Portugal, Duchess Claudine
de Cadaval remembers that her dear friend
Hubert de Givenchy visited her there
but two years ago. Over the course of 54
years, the pair traveled the world, dined
on countless meals, and even mounted an exhibition together
inside the Cadaval Palace in Evora. Called “Unforgettable
Bridal Gowns,” and held in the summer of 2015, the exhibition
featured dresses from Balenciaga, Carolina Herrera, Dior, Yves
Saint Laurent, Philippe Venet, and Givenchy. At the time,
Maître de Givenchy was 84 years old, and yet he delved into the
experience with fervor, working for a year on the project and
personally curating each piece. The duchess smiles, “It was so
beautiful, people cried.”
The son of a marquis, Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin
de Givenchy passed away March 10 at his renaissance palace
outside of Paris. He was 91. He lived the better part of his life
as a couturier. After a stint with Schiaparelli, he founded his
house in 1952 and became the youngest designer of Paris’s
fashion scene, which at the time included Christian Dior
and Pierre Balmain. He met his muse, Audrey Hepburn, the
following year. Their friendship would last the actor’s lifetime.
Throughout, de Givenchy would design entire wardrobes for
her movies, including Funny Face (1957) and How to Steal a
Million (1966). He was invited to sit next to Hepburn inside
the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion in Los Angeles the night she
30
presented the Academy Award for best costume design in 1986.
Their guests, Duchess de Cadaval and Philippe Venet, sat a few
rows back. “After she passed in 1993, Hubert rarely spoke about
Audrey. I think it hurt him too much,” says de Cadaval.
Along with Hepburn, Maître de Givenchy dressed many
high-profile private clients, among them Wallis Simpson, the
Duchess of Windsor, Maria Callas, Marlene Dietrich, and
Jacqueline Kennedy. “In Givenchy, we felt classy and beautiful
– and good in our heads,” says the duchess. Already envisioning
a new, more economical way of dressing, the couturier
introduced separates; his clothes underscored comfort and
emphasized line. In her clothing archive, the duchess counts
many Givenchy pieces. A pink dress with ostrich feathers and
a chinchilla fur coat with suede skirt and cashmere turtleneck
sweater are among her favorites. “There was a time when we
only wore couture; even my cardigans were made by hand.
Now, the nobility all dress in Uniqlo,” she laughs.
The duchess and de Givenchy met in 1964 through a mutual
friend, French actor and model Capucine. “I was to marry and
I went to Givenchy for my wedding gown. I was betrothed to
someone 30 years older than me and so I didn’t want a dress
for a little girl.” Maître de Givenchy created a green gazar suit
with a white coat for her nuptials. From that moment, their
friendship blossomed. “He liked my husband very much. But
there were things he wouldn’t do, so I would join Hubert
alone – to sail on his boat, for instance. He had a beautiful
boat that used to belong to Aline de Rothschild; I think he
had it for 10 years.”
After retiring in 1995, de Givenchy continued to be involved
in fashion in other ways. As the honorary founding chairman
 ‫عدسة‬Lens

of the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation, he oversaw the
promotion and exhibitions dedicated to the work of the man
he idolized and who was once his mentor. He had also become
an expert on antiques and consulted for Christie’s, the Palace
of Versailles, and the Louvre. “But he had no stomach for the
fashion that followed his era,” recalls the duchess. “He deemed
the new fashion awful. He never asked about designers or
collections from other houses, let alone the one he founded,”
she comments. “But he didn’t critique people. He saw the
world with a sense of humor.”
After his retirement, de Givenchy
traveled more than ever. He owned “Life with
is all in stone, “very pure,” she comments. “He would host
friends at either of his homes, but never more than eight of us.
He always invited the socialite Mercedes Bass, he really loved
her. If the interior designer Alberto Pinto said, ‘Hubert, I have
someone important, I would love to show him your house,’ of
course, he would acquiesce,” she states. At times, de Givenchy
would throw intimate parties. “He hosted the engagement of
my daughter Diana with Prince Charles-Philippe, Duke of
Anjou, and he prepared a big table. It was always very simple,
but elegant. Exquisite, really.” He
also read a great deal and often went
to Galignani bookstore in Paris. He

a chalet in Mégève. The couturier,
who had an athletic 2m tall build,
never skied – or exercised, for that
matter – but he enjoyed excursions.
He only stopped going to the
Alps when a doctor told him he
could no longer travel to altitudes
higher than 1 000m. Outside of
Paris, his favorite city was Venice.
After all, his ancestors – originally
“Tuffini” – were from the sinking
city. He had a beautiful residence
there that he kept for some years,
shares de Cadeval. Towards the end
of his life, he was happier to stay
home. “His house in Paris, with
18th century wood trimmings, is
so beautiful, but it’s his country
residence, the Château du Jonchet,
that is a true reflection of him and
his style,” she says. The grand palace
Hubert was
received three or four magazines
a day, on auctions and art. He had
ALWAYS acquired a remarkable collection of
17th and 18th century sculptures
in motion” and had a vast number of his friend
Diego Giacometti’s pieces.
“Hubert never spoke of the passing
of time,” comments the duchess,
her energetic voice quieting. “We
never talked of death together. He
never said, ‘One day I won’t be here
anymore.’ He was too discreet for
that. Now, I am hurting more. The
pain is more intense. The absence
will be very great. Life with Hubert
was always in motion.” She breaks
momentarily from her grief. “He was
organizing a trip to Marrakech in
April, to see the Yves Saint Laurent
museum. Hubert was a man who
always wanted to have plans.”

Comic book capers Evoke childhood memories in fashion’s cartoon prints

MOSCHINO
PRADA

VERSACE

BALENCIAGA

JEREMY SCOTT
PHOTOGRAPHS GETTY, INDIGITAL

MARVEL MANIA FROM PRADA’S

MANGA ILLUSTRATIONS TO JEREMY
SCOTT’S DEVILISH MONSTERS, DESIGNERS
MINED ALL MANNER OF FICTIONAL
CHARACTERS FOR SPRING

Only
BESPOKE
HA ND MA D E
Hermès opens its first boutique in
the Arab world dedicated to made-
to-measure orders in The Dubai
Mall. Axel de Beaufort, artistic
director of Hermès Sur-Mesure,
i
talks making dreams a reality
nside the pocket-sized tome An ABC of Hermès Crafts by Olivier
Saillard is a vocabulary of 100 words dedicated to skill artistry.
Primarily in French, these are the words used to describe the
gestures of the men and women inside Hermès who specialize
in 16 distinct crafts. It documents a special history – one that
has been passed on for generations. Of course, Hermès has
designed bespoke pieces since it came to be as a harness-maker in 1837.
Now, for the first time in the Middle East, a boutique has opened in the
new extension of The Dubai Mall to celebrate the house’s handcrafted
pieces. The 976 sqm space was designed by Parisian architecture firm
RDAI under the direction of Denis Montel.
To mark the occasion, it created two bags. Both black, the clutch
was inspired by leather items from the Twenties. It references a piece
within the conservatoire; a secret place where Hermès archives are kept
and a great source of inspiration for those making bespoke Hermès
today, namely the department’s artistic director, Axel de Beaufort.
He shares that the new Dubai store ordered the commission. “They
wanted a very dark black, and so different types of leather, including
precious skins, were used to create a landscape that reflects various
shades of noir,” he notes. “Sometimes it’s good to look backwards,” he
comments. “We care for the preciousness of craftsmanship.” He leafs
through an exclusive book (only 50 were printed) that documents the
year’s bespoke projects. It is confidential and shown only to Hermès
clients. “We like to write the story of an object. After all, it exists
32
FAR LEFT THE
NEW STORE IN THE
DUBAI MALL LEFT
AXEL DE BEAUFORT
BELOW LEFT
THE BESPOKE
HERMÈS BAG
CREATED FOR THE
DUBAI MALL STORE
through its story. Just
look at the Birkin,” he
notes. Each project is
unique. One client
ordered boxing gloves;
another wanted a bicycle.
In 2014, former French president
François Hollande offered Queen Elizabeth II a
set of Hermès photo albums of her previous visits to France.
The 40-year-old de Beaufort oversees all international bespoke orders
from Paris. He moves easily through the showspace, speaking quickly;
his deep voice echoes inside a large hangar that was once a cinema studio
belonging to French director Luc Besson. It is where the conservatoire is
located, along with the workshop where some 10 men and women are
hunched over in concentration. A second workshop, where made-to-
measure bags are made, is located on rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré. While
Hermès still makes about 500 unique saddles a year, it has expanded to
create commissions pertaining to accessories, furniture, and just about
any means of transportation available today. Technology has played a
central role in this expansion. De Beaufort points to a model of a boat
inside a glass case. “When we speak of technology, perhaps it’s not in a
sense that people recognize, at first. With this boat we wanted to create
a proper swimming platform at the front, and open the hull for direct
access to the water. If you don’t have the expertise to understand how
this works, you won’t be able to push the boundaries of innovation.”
He navigates between bespoke leather helicopter seats to a skateboard
featuring colorful print on wood. “Here, we wanted to create the look
of stickers. It took a year to determine how to transfer the pigment to
the resin. It looks like it’s handpainted,” he marvels, running his hand
along the smooth maple.
De Beaufort’s path to Hermès started at his great-uncle François
de Lamothe’s work table in the south of France. “He was an award-
winning cinema decorator; an old kid. I learned to draw with him and
dream big.” De Beaufort met Pierre-Alexis Dumas, artistic director of
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIGITAL
Hermès in 2012. “They asked me for my vision of a project, but I can’t
tell you what,” his blue eyes twinkle. Since joining Hermès in 2013, the
department he leads has blossomed into a fully-fledged operation. It
remains to be seen what commissions the Arab world will dream up –
but de Beaufort and his team will be up for the challenge.
 ‫عدسة‬Lens
R13

GIVENCHY
Rodeo

CÉLINE
TRE NDS

REDUX
Saddle up in cowboy boots and
luxury leather macs – Western
design codes have been tapped,
reworked, and elevated for SS18
COACH

BOTTEGA VENETA
VERSACE
MAISON MARGIELA

CHLOÉ
 To the

JACQUEMUS
FA CE

TOP
Not satisfied with her

Just
runway status, Cindy Bruna
is looking to make her mark
with women’s causes, too

m BEACHY
T R AV E L

odel Cindy Bruna is running late for

an already late night call. But it’s not a
fashion party that’s keeping her. She’s
Comporta in Portugal is
ELIE SAAB
in meetings with Solidarité Femmes. The French
federation combats violence against women, with
a focus on domestic abuse. She became involved
the waterfront hideaway on
because she knew a victim. “It was something I everyone’s radar
wanted to fight for. At first, I didn’t think I could do
something,” says the 23-year-old Bruna. “But we’re Visit the 40km of Comporta’s white sand
trying to bring the federation to another level, with beach in Comporta Bliss (Assouline),
the support of the French government.” dedicated to the Portuguese peninsula.
Bruna is one of the models using their visibility and Through the lens of Carlos Sousa, you can
platform – she has almost half a million Instagram almost taste the fresh clams cooked with
followers – to promote a cause important to them. cilantro and garlic cloves, and fruits and
Karlie Kloss campaigns for girls to learn coding, vegetables from the neighboring farmers.
Doutzen Kroes pushes for an end to elephant Located just south of Lisbon, the stretch of
poaching, and this month’s cover star, Adwoa sand is surrounded by rice fields and fragrant
Aboah, founded Gurls Talk. Of course, Bruna’s pine trees. The houses, including that of
Instagram is also peppered with snapshots of her Farida Khelfa, are designed to blend into the
fashionable life, both on the runway and behind the scenes. surrounding landscape. Decorated in azure
Between being a Victoria’s Secret model and walking for Elie tones and whites with wicker furniture accents,
Saab, Balmain, and Jacquemus, the 1.8m tall model has landed they blur the line with manmade structures
campaigns for Prada and Calvin Klein. The French beauty is one of and earthly wonders. Assouline.com
the most recognized faces in the new era where diversity in fashion is
no longer the exception, but quickly becoming the rule.
Born in the South of France, in the seaside town of Saint-Raphaël,
Bruna was scouted on the beach at 16. “My mom wanted me to finish
school first. You hear so many things about modeling that parents don’t
really want for their kids,” she says. One man who took her under his
BALMAIN

wing when she first stepped onto the scene was Azzedine Alaïa. “Alaïa
was my first job,” recalls Bruna. “I arrived at his showroom and was not
even able to walk in heels. I learned to walk with him. Through it all, I
could always feel that I was in the presence of a genius.”
Bruna has also worked with Elie Saab since she was 18. They have
developed an affection for one another. “He offered me a dress for my
birthday,” Bruna says. “I think she will go very far,” offers Saab. With
the experience of walking for his shows, she comments, “Now, I can
better understand his dresses and collections. He impresses me all the
time.” She lives in New York and attributes her “citizen of the world”
mentality to her Congolese mother and Italian father. “I’m so happy I
have different cultures,” she says. “I feel strong because of it. It’s me.”

34
 ‫عدسة‬Lens

The French
IC ON

TOUCH
In discussion for
the occasion of the
new Roger Vivier
flagship store
in The Dubai
Mall, its brand “The brand has always been
ambassador, Inès successful, particularly in Dubai.
It’s like the region is its lucky
de la Fressange, charm,” she enthuses, explaining
discusses all the decision to open a third
store, its flagship, in The Dubai
things style Mall. “At the beginning, I had to
explain who Roger was and what
Words ALEXANDRIA GOUVEIA he was doing. Now nobody asks
– they know,” she says. “What I
love about Roger Vivier is that
the shoes are always elegant.”

s
he’s been the spokeswoman of L’Oréal,
is considered one of Karl Lagerfeld’s
greatest muses, is the ultimate Parisian
style icon, and brand ambassador of
Roger Vivier. When it comes to style, Inès de la
Fressange is a virtuoso.
While visiting the Vogue Arabia offices in
Dubai, de la Fressange is every bit as fabulous and
Parisian as anticipated. She glides in, her statuesque
frame draped in a muted gray three-piece suit
and accessorized with embellished Roger Vivier
sandals. At 60, she has retained her distinguished
model looks while her gregarious personality
is as captivating as it is charming.
It’s de la Fressange’s Parisian allure
and impeccable style that make her
the consummate ambassador
for Roger Vivier. It’s a role
she has held for nearly 15
years. “They wanted something
very Parisian and for the product to be important without having
advertising,” she says. Thanks to her, the world is now au fait with
Roger Vivier.
Despite being inducted in the prestigious Vanity Fair
international best-dressed list hall of fame in 1998, de la
Fressange, who also has her own label, insists she “never
knows how to dress up.” She explains, “I always buy the
same thing and I always have the feeling that I don’t
have the right things, but when I put on Roger Vivier
shoes and accessories, I know it will work.” In spite
of not considering herself a style icon, she is the co-
author of the New York Times bestseller Parisian
Chic: A Style Guide. Her advice? “Keep it simple,
never overload your accessories, and dare to mix
cheap with expensive items.” As for the key staples
every woman should have in her wardrobe, de
la Fressange narrows it
down to three items: a
navy sweater, “because
it will add color to an
outfit but is versatile and neat;” a blue cotton men’s shirt,
to “wear slightly open and roll the sleeves;” and a pair of white jeans,
because “they feel comfortable like a normal pair of jeans. Then you
add nice shoes and bag and you immediately look sophisticated.”
When it comes to black tie and after-work events, she’s a firm
believer in comfort, be it a dress or pant suit. “It’s about elevating your
look with great accessories.” Resolutely proving her point, at the Vogue
Arabia x Roger Vivier dinner party, she arrives wearing an all-white
ensemble – shirt, blazer, and pants – accessorized with Roger Vivier
shoes and bag, bien sûr.

35
 Shifting
cultures
E XH IBITION

Glass
R E VA MP

CASTLE
Chanel will finance renovations

u
of Paris’s historic Grand Palais
nder the glass and steel
domes of the Grand Palais,
the sun always seems to “UNTITLED (GHARDAÏA)” BY KADER ATTIA
shine. Come 2020, its doors will close,
however, to undergo a four-year “But a Storm is Blowing From
facelift, scheduled to be completed in
time for the Paris Summer Olympics
Paradise” exhibition of Arab
in 2024. Chanel will contribute contemporary art heads to Milan
€25 million to restore and renovate
the palace, originally built for the The Guggenheim museum curator for Middle
Universal Exhibition in 1900. East and North Africa, Sara Raza, is elated
The French house is the exclusive with the expansion of the museum’s curatorial
sponsor of its renewal, while the scholarship. “Their position as artists reflects a
French government has committed multifaceted picture of contemporary living,”
€288 million to the project. Chanel she says. Following the New York debut in
has been showing fashion shows 2016, the exhibition will debut in Milan. The
inside the Grand Palais since 2005. works, including lithographs by Ali Cherri
Each season, it dreams up a remarkable setting – an iceberg, a giant lion, and even and a sculpture by Kader Attia, are part of
reproductions of the Eiffel Tower and Versailles gardens have occupied the space. the Guggenheim’s permanent collection. “But
Chanel is not the first fashion house to support the renovations of a city landmark – a Storm is Blowing From Paradise” is on at
Tod’s helped to renovate the Colosseum in Rome, Bulgari repaired the city’s Spanish the Galleria d’Arte Moderna Milano in New
steps, and Fendi financed the renewal of the Trevi fountain. York from April 11-June 17

BELT
it up
SCULPTED FORMS BELTS ARE HAVING A MOMENT
AND IT’S NOT JUST THE UBIQUITOUS WAIST-CINCHER
THAT IS NOW A MAINSTAY OF SS18 WARDROBES. FROM
EXTRA-LONG TO UNDERSTATED, POP COLOR, AND
PLASTIC, THIS OUTFIT-TRANSFORMING ACCESSORY IS
KEY TO AN ARTFULLY LAYERED SILHOUETTE
 ‫عدسة‬Lens

At a
Stroke
ART

Tunisian artist Lassaâd Metoui

decodes his calligraphy style ahead
of his major solo exhibition at the
Arab World Institute in Paris

Homegrown
D ESIG N
As an artist and teacher at
the Beaux-Arts in Paris, how
do you introduce people to
the art of calligraphy? The
first thing I explain is that
d3 unveils the Dubai Institute of Design calligraphy is based on letters
to write a word. But these
and Innovation. Its dean walks Vogue letters are also forms. It’s an art
through its forward-thinking programs that possesses a direct link to
nature. We use a cut reed that

T
he Dubai Institute of Design and Innovation (DIDI) located in
Dubai Design District is ready to open its doors. Inside, each of
its 500 students will have their own space to create and design
their bespoke degree by crossing studies in product design,
strategic design management, multimedia, and fashion. Design in the region
is projected to increase by 20% in the next three years, so the school is timely.
“With such a huge demand for design graduates required in the region by
2019 – up to 30 000 – DIDI will champion talent development to fuel the
growth of the industry,” says Mohamed Abdullah, DIDI president.
Founding dean Sass Brown (below right) is standing just outside the
five-floor, open-plan building designed by Foster + Partners, observing the
bustle of creatives that surround her. The DIDI fashion design curriculum
was written in collaboration with Parsons The New School in New York.
The program is cutting-edge while rooted in the world. Students will learn
how to grow textiles in a lab and develop digital materials. They will also
explore 3D printing, CNC routing, and robotics from process to concept
to product. “This will all revolve around design that solves or eases social
problems and makes a difference in the world,” Brown says.
While DIDI’s mission is global, it has tailor-made courses with the region
in mind. “There are specific design classes that capitalize on the design
history and currency of the GCC, the MENA region,
and the historic silk route,” says Brown. “There are
a myriad of traditions and techniques, which are
alive and contributing to contemporary design
in the region, that are incorporated into
the coursework and research the students
undertake. We also intend to take advantage
of our geographic location within d3 by
tapping into the local and international design
community we share space with, for real-world
industry experts, and exposure to the students.”
DIDI bachelor of design in English costs from AED
98 000 per year, with scholarships available. Didi.ac.ae
is born in nature and not in
the hands of man. The same
can be said for ink and paper.
These three items are treasures
to scholars. Calligraphy is the
art of beauty and aestheticism.
It can decorate the walls of
the Alhambra in poetic forms
or those of the Taj Mahal to
resonate love. It is an art that calls for many years of study –
ideally 30. Personally, I will never stop studying.
How do you define your style of calligraphy? My vision
of calligraphy is based on meditation and a long journey
of reflection. Each object is studied and then integrated in
calligraphic forms. Calligraphy starts at the base of a canvas,
so that its shapes can take root and then develop on the rest
of the white page.
What do you try to convey with such bold use of color
within your work? I principally use three colors: black, red,
and blue. Black represents the reflection of sensations. It is
a reflector of light, and is traced with one, unique gesture.
It’s an important color, because in its essence, it subsumes
all the others. In my childhood home of Gabès, I grew up in
a neighborhood where red was the color used to manifest
happiness. I look for the purity of this color in homage to the
history of art, but also my childhood. When I was young, my
mother taught me how to mix colors together. Blue is linked
to dreams. It is the expression of a nature that we cannot
embrace with one look because it is so immense. Kandinsky
said, “Blue is essentially a celestial color. The ultimate
sensation it creates is one of rest.” In feng shui, blue is the
color of the soul and wisdom. 
Le pinceau ivre, carte blanche à Lassaâd Metoui is on at the
Institut du monde arabe in Paris from April 11-September 30
FROM LEFT DRESS, SUNGLASSES, LOUIS
VUITTON; DRESS, GIVENCHY, SUNGLASSES,
PAWAKA; DRESS, EARRING, SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO, SUNGLASSES,
ANDY WOLF; DRESS, HAIDER ACKERMANN,
SUNGLASSES, PRABAL GURUNG; DRESS, LANVIN,
EARRING, SHOUROUK, SUNGLASSES, DROME

FUTU RE
perspective Compiled by CLAIRE CARRUTHERS Photography DANIEL THOMAS SMITH

Shelve the classics – it’s time to switch things up with a pair of outré frames
 ‫ﺻﻴﺤﺔ‬Trend

LOUIS VUITTON

MIU MIU
THE SS18 RUNWAYS WERE
BRIMMING WITH STYLES
FIT FOR THE FUTURE. TAKE

MAISON MARGIELA
INSPIRATION FROM MAISON
MARGIELA AND MIU MIU,
WHO CLASHED RETRO
READY-TO-WEAR WITH NEXT-
LEVEL ESOTERIC LENSES

PAWAKA EMPAT 4 ACETATE SUNGLASSES

PRABAL GURUNG
YELLOW LENS SUNGLASSES

POPPY LISSIMAN LE SKINNY GREEN/PURPLE SUNGLASSES

GENTLE MONSTER
STAINLESS STEEL SUNGLASSES

ANDY WOLF ACETATE SUNGLASSES AT MODA OPERANDI

LINDA FARROW
TORTOISESHELL SUNGLASSES

The breakout brand ROBERI & FRAUD FRANCES SUNGLASSES

ALI MEHRDAD AND STEFAN FOSTER,
CO-FOUNDERS OF ROBERI & FRAUD

Face shapes to sunglass styles – what works?

“If you have a round face, it’s best to stick to square
shapes. Oval faces tend to work with every style.”
Does the runway impact your designs? “It’s more
about what era is coming back in style. Once we
figure that out, we research what type of frames
ELENA SEROVA MODELS MARIE-LOUISE WEDEL, CHANEL
ASBERG AT ELITE PARIS, MORGAN CHAPMAN, MARINE
SCHUPFER PRODUCERS LEA REVERCHE AT QUADRIGA,

people wore then and bring them back.”

STYLE KATERINA ZOLOTOTRUBOVA HAIR MIKE DESIR
AT B AGENCY MAKEUP LAURE DANSOU AT WALTER

Why futuristic micro lenses? “A mixture of

DELZENNE, ANNA MOVCHAN AT MP PARIS

things, including current trends, inspired our

micro designs. We felt people were ready for
something new.”
Favorite style? “The black Doris
because it sparked a worldwide
trend. Check back in May –
MICRO MANAGING CHAMPIONED OFF THE CATWALK BY KENDALL JENNER, BELLA HADID
we’ll be adding more futuristic AND KAIA GERBER, THE ULTRA SLIMLINE CAT-EYE GIVES AN INSTANT UPDATE TO ELEVATED
styles to our portfolio.” ATHLEISURE AND STREET-SMART TAILORING

39
Trend‫ﺻﻴﺤﺔ‬
GUCCI RE(BELLE) TOP
HANDLE LEATHER TOTE

HALM THE TUTTI LE GRAND BLEU WALLET CLUTCH

CHLOÉ ROY FLAT CLUTCH

BOTTEGA VENETA CLUTCH

BALLY B-TURN SHOULDER BAG

Forever
BAGS
CÉLINE
LEATHER
SHOPPER

LOUIS VUITTON
DUFFLE BAG

Understated, timeless,
versatile – muse the new
hardworking It bags in
structural shapes and
neutral colors

PRADA
MONOCHROME
CHALK WHITE TOP
FENDI HANDLE TOTE
RUNAWAY
LEATHER
TOTE

BURBERRY THE BELT BAG

PHOTOGRAPHS INDIGITAL

40
 GUCCI
THE EVENING
METALLIC:

CÉLINE
ISABEL
MARANT

THE OVERSIZED BOYFRIEND:

MARTINE ROSE AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM

THE MODERN
NAUTICAL:
KRISTINA
FIDELSKAYA

THE CLASSIC WHITE

TUX: MANGO

Major
THE PINSTRIPE:
CLAUDIE
PIERLOT BLAZERS
This season’s investment piece
is one for the masses. From luxe
evening cuts to boxy boyfriend THE DAY
forms, and unexpected crops, JACKET
(WITH A
each offers endless potential TWIST)
BRUNELLO
CUCINELLI
PRADA

THE COCKTAIL
UPDATE: LANVIN
MARC JACOBS

THE UTILITY
PIECE:
MICHAEL
KORS
 TOP, SKIRT, MOSCHINO AT HARVEY NICHOLS

44
 ‫اختاري‬Shop

JACKET, DION LEE

GONE
girl
Photography
DOMEN /
VAN DE VELDE
Style
CLAIRE
CARRUTHERS

Quiet but resolutely powerful, retreat

into the season’s minimalist agenda
Shop‫اختاري‬

TRENCH DRESS, MAISON MARGIELA

46
SUIT, PETAR PETROV AT BOUTIQUE 1; LOAFERS, STUART WEITZMAN; EARRINGS, PAULA MENDOZA AT BYSYMPHONY
SUIT, CROCHET BRA, LOAFERS, CÉLINE
 ‫اختاري‬Shop

DRESS, JACQUEMUS; EARRINGS, PAULA MENDOZA AT BYSYMPHONY

49
Shop‫اختاري‬

DRESS, PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

50
JACKET, TOP, SKIRT, CHLOÉ; BOOTS, CÉLINE; EARRING, ELLERY AT THE MODIST
MAKEUP TONI MALT AT THINGS BY PEOPLE HAIR JO+JO MODEL LISA
VERBERGHT AT IMM BRUXELLES STYLE ASSISTANT MOHAMMAD HAZEM
REZQ SHOT ON LOCATION AT AL MAHA DESERT RESORT & SPA AL-MAHA.COM
 Sama
Al Wasmi
The burgeoning
Kuwaiti resort wear
designer has a sweet
spot for destination-
focused outfits SAMA AL WASMI WEARING
Words NOURIAH AL SHATTI A TIBI DRESS AND SIMONE
ROCHAS EARRINGS TOP
LEFT QUIRKY ANIMAL
VASES AND SUNGLASSES
FROM LE SPECS, TOM
FORD, AND MR BOHO
RETHINKING RESORT BELOW A BESPOKE HAT
BY RAZAN AZZOUNI AND
Sama Al Wasmi tested her resort wear label Dear Nin – HEELS FROM PRADA AND
launching this month – while on vacation last summer. MANOLO BLAHNIK
“I hadn’t planned on starting my own line, until I
traveled with it,” says the former Al Ostoura boutique it would work until I put it on.” She also pairs her favorite pearl-
fashion director. She took everything she created embellished vest by Dries Van Noten with a pleated frock from
on her trips to Lisbon, London, Porto Heli, and Marbella. Sacai. “I like things that are slightly quirky, as well as feminine,”
A devotee to versatility, Al Wasmi packed adjustable wrap- she notes. Her go-to eveningwear designer is Razan Alazzouni.
around tops that can easily transition from beach to an alfresco “Her creations are so ethereal. I love that she’s Arab and that all
lunch, and reversible belted kimonos with a thin terry cloth her clothes are made in Saudi.
lining. Her debut collection is influenced by what she would I have a lot of pieces from her;
pack to Bali. While shooting the look book on the Indonesian one of the dresses I wore for my
island, she “wore everything from the collection.” An emerald wedding was made by Razan.”
green dress left a lasting impression at an intimate dinner with
30 guests. “The next day, everyone was calling me the ‘girl in THROWBACK
the green dress.’ I want women to get recognized and feel great PIECES
when wearing Dear Nin.” “I buy a lot of vintage
bijoux and I like to
OFF-KILTER CLOSET work around bold pieces,”
“I like garments that are constructed in a strange way, Al Wasmi says about her
but make total sense on the body,” the budding designer accessories collection. A unique
remarks about her wardrobe’s hero pieces. “I have a Yves Saint Laurent gold necklace
backless Marni halter top with a thick elastic waistband that’s that she found at a vintage store
perfect for layering. It’s so strangely constructed, I didn’t think while honeymooning in Tokyo
 ‫أسلوب‬Style
LEFT A MOST PRIZED POSSESSION – A SIGNED DAVID BOWIE BOOK BELOW
AL WASMI DESIGNED HER BED IN GRAY AND GREEN. SHE’S WEARING A
ROBE FROM HER LINE DEAR NIN WITH A MARNI BROOCH RIGHT TAKESH
SUNGLASSES, VINTAGE EARRINGS, AND A COS TURTLENECK BELOW
RIGHT A COLLECTION OF CLUTCHES GIFTED BY HER HUSBAND, ALONG
WITH A DRIES VAN NOTEN ROBE AND FAVORITE DELPOZO SHOES

is one of her favorite finds. Another

treasured piece is an heirloom sun
pendant by Bulgari. “I got this from
my parents when I graduated and
it came with a leather choker. Now,
I wear it with two gold chains that I
stole from my sister,” she laughs. “I
think the chains make it look pretty
pimp.” For vintage browsing, she
heads to 1stdibs.com, where she
recently purchased a tea-length 1940s
dress in brocade.

BRILLIANT BAUBLES
“I once had a big-name jewelry
moment, but now, my taste
has shifted,” she remarks. “I
prefer breakout brands like “I like things that are
Alexander Fuchs, Jacquie
Aiche, and Kuwaiti brand Vous,” slightly quirky, as well as
she continues, while tracing a gold
choker around her neck adorned
SUPER FEMININE
with teardrop diamonds. Al Wasmi
also owns fine pieces from Kuwaiti label May Jewelry. “Having more of flats girl, but
a jeweler is so luxurious. The idea of speaking to someone about I’ll make an exception
something so precious is just a better experience than going to a with Alaïa or Dries
big name store.” Van Noten heels if my
outfit needs a pick-me-
HANDS-FREE up.” If she’s lounging at
“Bags are the one thing I could live without,” Al home or entertaining
Wasmi notes. “It’s something you hold rather than guests, you can find her in a pair of playful baby blue, mink slides
wear, and it’s the only piece in my wardrobe that I courtesy of Natasha Zinko.
can’t place on my body. I’m much more of a clothes
person.” Her carrier of the moment is a tricolor Balenciaga Bazar ALL-IN-ONE
shopper. “It’s practical, durable, and great for traveling,” she says. The Kuwaiti’s solution to hosting attire is slipping
“I’m planning on getting another one in different colors.” on a loose one-piece. “I’ll wear my black romper by
Kenzo or a flowy dress. I wear dark colors just in case
FANCY PANTS I spill something.” Her motto is to look relaxed and
Ask Al Wasmi her wardrobe staple and she is quick to effortless. “When you are comfortable, your guests will
choose. “I love pants.” She rotates feather-trimmed feel comfortable.” When she’s pressed for time, she’ll
Prada trousers and high-waisted cuts by Korean label slick on a red lipstick like MAC’s Chili. “Bold lips are all you need
Fleamadonna. “My favorite silhouette is a really wide to make a quick statement. Also have a collection of pretty plates,
culotte. I have a few from Tome, Delpozo, and Kenzo.” She teams and make sure to have an assortment of fruits, nuts, and cheese in
her stylish slacks with raffia mules or flat forms by Delpozo. “I’m the fridge, ready to toss on a platter.” ☐

53
 Seeing
CLEARLY

GLOVES, CHANEL; HEELS,

GIANVITO ROSSI; BAG,
WALLET, CÉLINE

54
 ‫ﺻﻴﺤﺔ‬Trend

CHANEL

BURBERRY
Luxury fashion has been
turning to the ultimate
utilitarian material for a
playful and unexpected
SS18. But is plastic as

o
transparent as it seems?
Photography PIOTR STOKLASA
Words CHRISTINE VAN DEEMTER

f all the trends making their way from the

OFF-WHITE

runway into our wardrobes, transparent

plastic was perhaps the hardest to see coming.
Bad puns aside, though, polyurethane is
having a moment. The SS18 catwalks were
awash with see-through shoes, coats, hats,
and bags in thick, shiny plastic. Even the show invitations featured
a healthy helping: Givenchy’s came in an oversized transparent
envelope clutch. Chanel underscored the trend’s practicality by
sending its models down a runway set that featured six waterfalls.
Their transparent hooded capes, hats, and even trademark toe-
cap boots all got the plastic treatment. Philipp Plein went full
tilt with clear coats layered over faux fur and metallics. Fashion
search engine Lyst reports that searches for plastic items have
increased exponentially over the last fashion month, with Staud’s
Shirley bag, the Off-White x Jimmy Choo pumps, and Calvin
Klein 205W39NYC’s coat being favorites.
A fun clear plastic shopper, with
a handy vintage check
Plastic can be a wardrobe workhorse – it only needs a wipe-down statement piece pouch inside. “Plastics,
and can last forever. While vinyl and PVC finishes have long since
crossed over from the counterculture goth and punk music scenes portrays a if worn in the right way,
add an edge to a simple
and onto the high street, it’s the more challenging transparent
iteration that’s leading SS18. How, exactly, do you pull off a see-
FUTURISTIC outfit. A fun statement
piece portrays a futuristic
through handbag? With the daily debris of lip gloss, pens, hair ties, outlook on outlook on fashion, and
keys, and phones, keeping a clear bag stylishly visible becomes a
tightrope walk. Street style stars have sussed this out, filling their see- fashion if it’s layered over a classic
look, it embraces past
through bags with cool phone covers, pouches, and sunglasses. As fashion influences. That’s
for clothing – think Burberry’s laminated trench coats and Calvin what I’m drawn to most about this trend – the combination
Klein’s plastic-layered floral slip dresses – the transparent look is of history and the future of fashion coming together.” Ease
best worn one item at a time. Styling it with an unembellished outfit into it with a translucent bag, Maison Margiela or Tibi wide buckle
will prevent you from looking like Paddington Bear setting off on an belt, or a pair of Off-White x Jimmy Choo pumps.
adventure. “We’ve seen this trend before but it’s one I don’t think I While plastic still manages to look futuristic in every new iteration –
would get tired of,” says It girl Dana Hourani, owner of a Burberry from designers in the Sixties enamored with this newfangled material

55
 to the Off-White x Jimmy Choo collab – it was Elsa Schiaparelli who
first started experimenting with synthetic materials in the 1930s. She

MARC JACOBS
created a floating insect necklace from rhodophane, a clear plastic
cousin of cellophane, as well as a cape that had the rather impractical
distinction of shattering like glass if handled incorrectly. Ever the
renegade, Schiaparelli believed creativeness and outrageousness to
be more important than good taste, and that women should dare to
be different. One of her suppliers, a young architecture student who
designed jewelry and buttons with his mother on the side, picked
up this visionary thread in 1966 when he launched his debut show,
“Twelve Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials.” His name?
Paco Rabanne, and he sent dresses made of plastic and metal down
the runway. Peggy Guggenheim, Françoise Hardy, and Brigitte
Bardot were instant fans – but Coco Chanel dismissed him as “the
metallurgist.” Nevertheless, the Sixties was an era besotted with
innovation, and PVC was the material of the moment.
Its durability and longevity is, of course, the darker side of the
plastic coin. PVC – polyvinyl chloride – is particularly beloved by
fashion, but it is also one of the most difficult to handle petroleum-
based synthetics. Its production necessitates huge amounts of
hazardous waste, and disposing of it by incineration releases toxic
chemicals. Its discovery in 1872 was an accident, like so many
scientific breakthroughs, when a German chemist left a flask of
vinyl chloride gas in the sun. The resultant material was brittle and
difficult to work with, but in 1926 scientists figured out a way
to plasticize PVC into a more flexible form, opening the door
for its many commercial uses. More than 8 billion tons of plastic
have been produced since its mass commercialization in the 50s. It’s
being made at such an alarming rate that recycling systems can’t keep
up, with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimating that by 2050,
BALMAIN

there will be more plastic than fish in the ocean. Of all the plastic waste
accumulated since the 50s, only 9% has been recycled – 79% ended up
on landfills or fragile ecosystems, like the ocean.

Plastic fantastic It’s noteworthy that fashion’s interest

in plastic is rising in tandem with society’s
awareness of the perils of this synthetic
Tap the see-through trend with a fabric. While some brands are investing
few choice accessories... in such a proven unsustainable material,
DIOR VISOR
others, like Gucci and Stella McCartney,
have committed to making sustainability
L’AFSHAR part of their businesses. Of course, there’s
CLUTCH
no such thing as a truly sustainable, mass-
produced, environmentally sound material
– even wool and hemp fibers need proper
MIU MIU COAT provenance to ensure its ethical credentials.
A wardrobe, then, is a balancing act. If you
can’t resist those Yeezy thigh-high vinyl
YEEZY
BOOTS boots or Burberry laminated trench coat,
GIANVITO ROSSI perhaps restore some equilibrium to your
SHOES
environmental mojo with a reusable coffee
mug and proper recycling bins for your
home and office. ☐

56
 ‫صيحة‬Trend

1 SHOPPER BAG, BURBERRY 2 JACKET, SKIRT, BRACELETS, BAG, CHANEL 3 SHOES, VALENTINO
GARAVANI 4 MULES, JIMMY CHOO

1
PHOTOGRAPHY TIM ELKAÏM PRODUCTION ALINE DE BEAUCLAIRE PRODUCTION ASSISTANT DARIA DI GENNARO NAILS TYPHAINE KERSUAL

Its durability and

LONGEVITY is, of
course, the darker side
of the PLASTIC coin
4

57
O
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

The
reimagined
Nike reinvents two classic shoes,
aimed specifically at women

The Eighties might be an era many people in

fashion wish to forget but it did give us two iconic
silhouettes: the Nike Air Force 1 and the Air
Jordan 1
Launching in 1982 and 1985 respectively, each
shoe instantly transcended its intended court
purpose, going beyond being a functional shoe for
sport to being a reputable symbol of urban style.
Over subsequent decades, the basketball shoes
inspired countless versions. Both have been canvases
for artists, including Dave White and Mister
Cartoon, and have been part of collaborations with
fashion houses CdG and PSNY. Through shifts in
NE
style and trend, both have also endured as footwear
staples for people from all backgrounds.
This year Nike is once again reimagining the Air
Force 1 and the Air Jordan 1 with the 1 Reimagined,
a collection that has been interpreted and designed
for the 21st century woman. With a 14-strong all-
women team behind the revamp, the concept of the
sneaker has been turned on its head.
The result is 10 new styles, which are divided into
five themes, or personality types: the explorer, lover,
sage, rebel, and the jester.
The 1 Reimagined collection is available at the
Jordan store in The Dubai Mall.

58
EXPLORER
 VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

JESTER

Going beyond being

a functional shoe
for sport to being
a reputable symbol
of urban style

SAGE

60
REBEL
Graphic lines and
metallic detailing
offer a modern
take on makeup,
not just reserved
for sci-fi movie sets
Photography DAN BELEIU
Words ALEXANDRA VENISON

Tomorrowland
Beauty‫جمـال‬
GRAPHIC NOW
Striking details are
key. Symmetry is
not. Look to metallic
applications in
whimsical silhouettes
for a futuristic
beauty vibe.
COAT, GARETH PUGH;
EARRINGS, BRACELET,
CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS

PREVIOUS PAGE
GET GLOSSY
Team matte skin with
a shiny eye. Work with
powder for finesse on
the face. Use subtle
brown eyeshadow as
a base, adding gloss
on the lid, all the way
up to the brow.
JACKET, BALMAIN; METAL
FACE ACCESSORY, MANUEL
ALBARRAN; NAIL COVERS,
EARRING, PERUFFO

64
ALL ABOUT
EMBELLISHMENT
Add unexpected
embellishment under the
lower lash line of one eye.
Opt for clear ovals for a
simple yet modern update.
DRESS, DIOR; SHOULDER PIECE,
JIVOMIR DOMOUSTCHIEV;
EARRINGS, CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS
 SUPERHUMAN SKIN
Use a light matte
foundation to create a
flawless base, building
up coverage as required.
Look to a subtle
sweep of highlighter to
exaggerate cheekbones.
DRESS, LOUIS VUITTON; ARM
ACCESSORY, MANUEL ALBARRAN;
NECKLACE, REGINA DABDAB;
RINGS, PERUFFO
‫جمـال‬Beauty

DELVE INTO DIMENSIONS

Holographic applications
are a simple way to update
your beauty look. Apply
thin strips just under the
brow for an easy update.
SHIRT, BELT, AQUILANO RIMONDI;
PANTS, GARETH PUGH; SHOULDER
PIECE, MANUEL ALBARRAN; SHOES,
VIC MATIE; EARRING, RINGS, PERUFFO

67
GUCCI

FENTY
COVER FX
GLITTER
DROPS

Stellar SKIN
Skin takes it up a notch
with the glow factor. Forgo
contouring and use products
that offer some serious shine,
like Cover FX Glitter Drops. SHISEIDO
Keep things streamlined ESSENTIAL
by using it in multipurpose ENERGY
ways, from highlighter to MOISTURIZING

galaxy
GEL CREAM
sheer eyeshadow.

KEVYN AUCOIN
THE NEO-ELIXIR
WEIGHTLESS
BEAUTY OIL

THE BEAUTY
GUIDE TO THE
Futuristic makeup and coifs take Words ALEXANDRA VENISON

your look to infinity and beyond

HERMES

CROP up OUAI MATTE

GIORGIO ARMANI

POMADE
Texture is key for hair,
followed by shine. “I’m
really into short hair
at the moment,” says
celebrity hair stylist Jen
Atkin. “It’s versatile and
easy to style, getting you
VERNON
out the door quickly.” FRANÇOIS
Ouai Matte Pomade OVERNIGHT
will keep your locks in REPAIR
place effortlessly. TREATMENT OIL
 ‫جمـال‬Beauty
NARS DUO
EYESHADOW
IN KAUAI MARC
JACOBS LE
MARC LIQUID
LIP CRAYON IN

Going BOLDER
BOLD
FRAM-BOIS!

“Strong color doesn’t have to be

fantasy,” states director of makeup
artistry at MAC, Terry Barber.
Whether you accentuate your
eyes or lips, choose vivid colors
that are sure to get you noticed.

FENDI

MARNI
SISLEY
PHYTO-EYE TWIST
LONG-LASTING
WATERPROOF
COLOR IN
EMERALD

TOM FORD

Crystal CLEAR
BEAUTY
BOYS & GIRLS
LIP COLOR IN
Consider gems for a wearable beauty statement. GEORGIE
Run Swarovski crystals along your hair parting, or
your lips, and eyes, as seen at Dries Van Noten.

EMBRACE
DIOR

DOLCE & GABBANA

individuality
Look to your natural
features and style
for the ultimate
inspiration – the more
eccentric, the better.
If there was one look
designers and the
front row agreed on,
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIGITAL

it was that anything

THOM BROWNE

goes – from glitter to

untamed hair.

69
Beauty‫جمـال‬

Light
A new perfume embraces
the sunrise for a radiant
take on fragrance
SPLASH
a marvelous citrus fruit because it’s possible to diffuse from it
simultaneously the optimism of its flesh, the freshness of the
zest, and the floral aspect of the tree.”
Next, jasmine sambac from China marks its entrance. Used
in several of Louis Vuitton’s previous conceptions, it is sourced
from the same variety used in green tea. “When you are in love,
you offer flowers. In my opinion, it’s difficult – even impossible
– to create a women’s fragrance without flowers,” he explains,
adding that he first tests each of his compositions on his
wife. Enveloping the fragrance further within a bouquet, the
perfume features a mix of magnolia petals and apricot-tinged

“I
n the morning when you spray your perfume, I
want it to provoke a smile on your face,” declares
Louis Vuitton master perfumer Jacques Cavallier
osmanthus with tangy blackcurrant
cassis. It makes for a fruity and
The moment floral combination, and musk and
incense harmonize the notes of this
between you and olfactory voyage intended to help

your fragrance is
Belletrud. “This moment – between you and launch the day.
your fragrance – is so intimate.” In the four years The perfume’s soft pink hue
preceding the launch of Louis Vuitton’s debut
seven scents in 2016, Cavallier journeyed the world to find and so INTIMATE is encased within a clear glass
bottle like those of the brand’s
infuse romance back into the art of perfume. Looking to nature, first fragrances. Paying homage
LOUIS VUITTON
he drew inspiration from moments in time: a starlit sky, a MASTER PERFUMER to Cavallier’s atelier in Grasse,
faraway land, a rose garden. His latest fragrance aspires to evoke JACQUES CAVALLIER where bottles can be refilled at the
the first rays of sunlight breaking through the darkness. It’s a BELLETRUD source of production, it features a
vision filled with hope, aptly named Le jour se lève, translating perfume fountain. The bottle can
to “the day begins.” be replenished at any Louis Vuitton
WORDS ALEXANDRA VENISON

As with every Louis Vuitton creation, be it from the world store. If the glass objet is a token to
of fashion or fragrance, craftsmanship is key. “My aim was to be passed on to the next generation,
create something with a lot of sophistication,” says Cavallier. its fragrant potion is grounded in
To achieve this, he sourced the finest natural ingredients. Of the moment, in that first kick when
the voluptuous mandarin from the south of Italy he says, “It’s the subconscious hits “awake.” ☐

70
 THE DIGITAL
DETOX
m y phone lights up. It’s the third
time in under a minute. I walk
across the office to make a
cup of tea and receive another
notification. Like clockwork, I
swipe left. No text message, WhatsApp, email, Instagram,
or push notification is left unread. That’s not to say I
answer them all. This pattern repeats itself from the
moment I wake up, to the second I close my eyes. It’s a
love-hate relationship.
The rapid rise of the digital age dictates that the
average person reading this will have at least two
screens in the room with him. As technology becomes
more advanced, it appears increasingly indispensable.
This growing dependency is not without downsides,
though. “Positive, meaningful social networks are an
important factor in our resilience to daily life stressors,”
72
Permanently
stuck to
your phone?
It may be
time to
disconnect
says Dr Nick Wakefield, clinical psychologist at The
Lighthouse Arabia, a center for wellbeing in Dubai.
“However, we are engaging less with those around us
and more with our digital world.”
By sparking dopamine in the brain – the chemicals
associated with rewards and motivation – notifications
make it hard for us to disconnect from our phones. They
can become so addictive that some people even face
withdrawal symptoms. An online study by the American
Psychological Association found that 43% of people
Photography
surveyed were “constant checkers” when it came to
MARIE BÄRSCH emails, social media accounts, or text messages, in 2016.
Words The report also confirmed that these people experienced
greater overall stress than those who didn’t check as
ALEXANDRA VENISON recurrently. Orianna Fielding, founder of London-based
The Digital Detox Company, explains, “Digital over-
connectivity can be responsible for causing symptoms
 ‫جمـال‬Beauty
Do you need a
of depression and anxiety, due to the lack of real human
digital detox? without splitting your attention between
connection. While our digital life celebrates connectivity, IF YOU TICK MORE your digital and analog lives.” The next step
without real meaning and connection, our actual lives THAN FIVE OF THESE is to work on changing the relationship you
BEHAVIORS, IT’S TIME
have no anchor, no core to sustain us.” have with your devices. You don’t have to cut
TO TAKE A PAUSE
It also plays another role: keeping up with the Joneses. out technology, but work on reducing your
Scrolling through Instagram and Facebook, we don’t see 1 You sleep with your dependency on it. “I constantly felt the need
the full picture. Instead, we view what is often a staged phone next to you. to feel connected and I relied on social media
and filtered snapshot of reality. This can lead to people 2 You check your phone to feel updated,” says blogger and DJ Tala
experiencing feelings of inferiority. Wakefield explains, when you’re with people. Samman. “I also realized we unconsciously
“Social media is negatively affecting our ability to commit 3 When you wake up, reach for our phones out of habit.” By taking
to long-term goals. It creates depression and social your phone is the first mini digital detoxes during the summer and
anxiety due to the constant comparisons between the self thing you look at. winter holidays, she realized that technology
and others.” This is why a digital detox can be necessary. 4 You don’t even go to had not only become a major distraction,
Selena Gomez and Kendall Jenner have both taken to the bathroom without but it enabled procrastination, too. Samman
their social media accounts to announce a temporary your phone. disconnects periodically from social media,
hiatus from the platforms, citing health concerns as the 5 You check your phone rather than go offline entirely – a more
reason for the move away from digital. Both ultimately every 10 minutes. realistic concept for many. The idea stems
returned, with Gomez reconnecting with her 80 million 6 You multi-screen across from focusing on the tasks at hand, while still
followers after 90 days. various digital devices. functioning in the modern world. “Imagine
“A digital detox is a period of time when a full 7 You text someone in being able to think in-depth about a topic
disconnection from all digital devices is undertaken the same room as you. without being disrupted by notifications –
in order to reframe your relationship with technology 8 You suffer from online to really immerse yourself in what you are
as the tool and not the driver of our lives,” explains “creeping” – you set out doing,” proposes Wakefield. “When we learn
Fielding. “It’s not about the devices themselves, but to look up something to reconnect with ourselves and prioritize
what we do with them, such as constantly checking our online and realize you’ve what really matters in our lives, we can start
emails, notifications, and social media,” adds Wakefield. spent two hours surfing. to develop a new form of more mindful
On average, a full digital detox takes seven days. After 9 You spend more time relationships with all our digital devices,
turning off your devices, reconnect with the world on your phone than with creating a positive, balanced, and sustainable
around you, whether through scheduled activities or just your friends and family. foundation for living a life of wellness and
simply appreciating time away from the digital world. 10 You skim over presence in a digital world,” says Fielding.
“Putting digital connectivity on pause is like switching information because If booking a week off work to visit a
onto airplane mode to allow the space to maximize your your attention span has far-flung location where your phone is
potential,” says Fielding. reduced to eight seconds. confiscated isn’t on the horizon, start by
It’s easier said than done, though. One recent study switching off your notifications. When you
indicated that while 65% of people surveyed described are sitting down to dinner, keep your phone
a digital detox as a good way to preserve mental health, in your bag. Start your digital detox by making small
only 28% managed to complete one. This is when a changes. In the long run, they will bring you an inner
retreat becomes useful. From five-star locations to a peace that no like or comment ever will. ☐
summer camp for adults, there
are countless ways for individuals,
friends, and companies to get
involved. “Retreats can be an
Where to detach Send your phone packing
excellent way to detox because
they provide you with structure
and novelty that can distract
you from the need to have your
devices. They actively prevent
you from accessing your screens,”
MODEL SOPHIA KOCH POSTPRODUCTION DGTL-CRAFT

Wakefield says.
Fielding – who creates not
only retreats but also seminars
and courses on the subject –
explains the first step: “You
will almost immediately begin
to feel less stressed and more
relaxed. You’ll feel less rushed as
time slows down and will find
yourself able to think clearly,
INSIGHT MEDITATION FABRIKEN FURILLEN CHUMBE ISLAND WILLKA T’IKA THE SANCTUARY
SOCIETY, GOTLAND ISLAND, CORAL PARK, SACRED VALLERY, KOH PHANGAN,
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FREEDOM OF MIND AND HEAD TO THE WILDERNESS, BASED IN THE CENTER OF A WELLNESS PROGRAMS THE REMOTE JUNGLE OF HAAD
HEART ARE KEY TO THIS WHERE A 20-MINUTE BIKE MARINE PROTECTED AREA, OFFER A REJUVENATING TIEN BAY HOUSES A ONE-OF-
RETREAT EXPERIENCE. WITH RIDE FROM THE MAIN THIS ISLAND HAS ECO- EXPERIENCE, INCLUDING A-KIND PARADISE WHERE
400 ACRES OF WOODLAND, HOTEL TAKES YOU TO THE BUNGALOWS WITH ALMOST CRYSTAL LIGHT THERAPY, YOUR MIND, BODY,
MEDITATORS CAN FIND A HERMIT CABINS. THESE ZERO ENVIRONMENTAL FLORAL SOLAR BATHS, AND SOUL WILL BE
SILENT HAVEN TO PRACTICE BASIC ROOMS IN THE HEART IMPACT. YOUR STAY ALSO AND CHAKRA GARDENS. IT REBALANCED THROUGH
INNER PEACE. BOARDING OF A RESERVE OFFER THE SUPPORTS CONSERVATION ALSO HAS YOGA STUDIOS, MASSAGE, YOGA, AND
IS SIMPLISTIC WITH BASIC ULTIMATE BACK-TO-NATURE AND EDUCATION IN THE A LIBRARY, AND A MUSIC PLANT-BASED FOOD.
AMENITIES. DHARMA.ORG EXPERIENCE. FURILLEN.COM AREA. CHUMBEISLAND.COM COTTAGE. WILLKATIKA.COM THESANCTUARYTHAILAND.COM

73
74
Th
Sp
is i
s gro
a
of und
thi con
s w tr
orl ol t
dw om
Ph
ith ajo
oto ne r m
gra
ph
w- ak
yM
AR
age eu
CB
EA
Od ce
co p, ta
US
SA
lor ki
RT s a ng
W nd yo
ord
sA tex u o
LEX
AN tur ut
DR
AV es
EN
ISO
N
dity
 ‫جمـال‬Beauty
ROCKET UP
Kiss Kiss Matte Hydrating
& Plumping Velvet Matte
Lip Colour in Crazy Nude
and Spicy Burgundy;
Palette 5 Couleurs in
L’Heure de Nuit and Tonka
Impériale; Guerlain Rose
Aux Joues Tender Blush in
Morning Rose All Guerlain

ON ANOTHER PLANET
Chanel Les 9
Ombres Multi-Effects
Eyeshadow Palette
Édition No1 Affresco
 Happiness is the SECRET to all
beauty; there is no beauty that
is attractive without HAPPINESS
CHRIS TIAN DIOR

MAKING CONTACT
Forever Extreme Control
Perfect Matte Powder
Makeup in Medium Beige;
Vibrant Colour Powder
Blush in Coral Cruise;
5 Couleurs Eyeshadow
Palette in Undress All Dior

76
 ‫جمـال‬Beauty

IN ORBIT
Beauty Encre de Peau
Fusion Ink Foundation;
YSL Couture Variation
Lip & Eye Pallette;
Volupté Tint-in-Balm in
Seduce Me Pink; Rouge
Pur Couture Lipstick in
Rouge Vermillon All YSL

77
HIGH IMPACT
Dior 5 Couleurs Designer
All-In-One Artistry Palette in
Smoky Design

POST PRODUCTION LAYER 1 SET

DESIGN AND CGI OLIVIER DJALAYER
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT IDA ZANDER

78
 ‫جمـال‬Beauty

OUT OF THIS WORLD

Rouge Allure Luminous Intense
Lip Colour in Incantevole;
Luminous Matte Lip Colour in
L’Aristocratica and L’Indomabile;
Les 9 Ombres Exclusive
Creation Eyeshadow Creation
in Édition No1 Affresco; Poudre
À Lèveres Exclusive Creation
Lip Balm and Powder Duo in
Rosso Parthenope and Rosso
Pompeiano; Ombre Première
Longwear Cream Eyeshadow
in Verderame All Chanel

on!
e! eap
ienc t a w
sc ha !
L
E

a
at Y, w CE H
A
N

h C

, w UT AN
E

t
L
L
n
e EA EG R
IE

m
B

rn B t EL G
A

o a
Ad , w h
ty
odes
M
Beauty‫جمـال‬
HAIL
Hollywood
Charlotte Tilbury has revolutionized the
world of makeup yet again. Customizable,
complexion boosting, and easily bendable,
her Hollywood Flawless Filter is a hybrid of
primer, highlighter, and filter for starlet skin.
Sublime Skincare
Succumb to the power of vanilla
Planifolia. Chanel Sublimage L’Extrait de
Creme uses the highest concentration of
this ingredient, for a formula that delights
all of your senses. From the heavenly smell
to its powerful restorative properties, it is
truly worth the investment.
80
Making music
MAC Cosmetics teamed up with
Jeremy Scott for a collection of limited-
edition makeup inspired by music. The
designer tells us more
HOW DID THIS COLLABORATION COME
ABOUT? MAC has created the looks for
my shows for many years. They’ve also
supported my designs from a cosmetic
perspective, and helped to bring my
documentary to life.
WHAT IS THE CONCEPT BEHIND THE
COLLECTION? Music is a constant in my life.
When I’m prepping for my show or dressing
a pop star for her tour, I put music on as a
muse to bring different images and visions
to life. Taking a makeup palette and turning
it into a boom box, cassette, and CD pays
homage to music.
TELL US ABOUT THE COLOR PALETTE. All the
products are strong and bold. It makes a
statement. I wanted this collection to offer
diversity and versatility.
COMPILED BY ALEXANDRA VENISON
ON THE VINE
CAUDALIE WORKED
HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE
WITH DR DAVID
PACKAGING? It doesn’t look like a makeup
SINCLAIR FROM
packaging box; it’s the purist expression of
HARVARD MEDICAL my creativity right now. It’s about what I do,
SCHOOL TO ENHANCE the humor I have, and the way I see things.
THE POWERS OF WHAT WAS IT LIKE WORKING WITH THE MAC
ITS PREMIER CRU TEAM ON A FULL COLLECTION? Once I came
RANGE. UNVEILING up with how I wanted the collection
A NEW PATENT to look, we worked very closely
CALLED VINERGY, to make sure it was packaged
ALONGSIDE A SERUM, in the way I had envisioned
THE FIRMING and that the colors we chose
POWERS OF ITS for each of the palettes were
FAMED CREAM HAVE fun, innovative,
BEEN INCREASED and universally
SEVENFOLD. flattering.
 VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
THE ESSENCE OF ESCAPE
A feeling of freedom radiates from Nomade,
t
the latest Chloé fragrance
o define the spirit of Chloé
is to look into the soul of the
brand. “My colors come
from Egypt,” founder Gaby
Aghion once said. Born in
Alexandria and moving
to Paris at 18, she broke barriers in
the industry with her audacious spirit.
Today, the Chloé woman continues
this ideal, with a journey of her own
illuminating the way. The brand’s
latest fragrance captures this.
Nomade is not just a scent, it is a
feeling. With a fresh outlook for the
modern woman, it offers escape and
a world of discovery. Masterfully
blended by perfumer Quentin Bisch,
it is soft yet strong. Notes of floral
entwine with chypre. Oak moss
offers a mineral character cloaked
in the opulent sweetness of Mirabelle
plum. Freesia adds a flourish of floral.
All-natural ingredients, they speak to
the Chloé woman.
French actor Ariane Labed is the
muse. The incarnation of what a
nomad woman embodies, she is
forever on an adventure, stopping in
Rajasthan for the Nomade campaign.
Contemporary artist Ryan McGinley
photographed Labed, with Fleur
Fortuné directing the film.
The wind dances through her
hair and she shows the confidence
derived from a liberty reached
through voyage. Capturing the colors
of the sunrise, the campaign mirrors
the beauty of the bottle, which is
transparent to allow beams of rosy
beige light to filter through. The round
silhouette speaks of a never-ending
journey, while a contrasting collar of
gold is completed with a simple pink
knot. A precious package.
 VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

82
 e
FOREVER
Tom Ford’s latest
scent is exactly what it xplicit. Exclusive. Fabulous.
Tom Ford’s latest foray into
says on the bottle fragrance finally arrives to
the Middle East on April 27.
Photography VIKRAM GAWDE Its most hotly anticipated launch to date,
Tom Ford’s Fabulous has scent enthusiasts
fighting to get their hands on one.
It is no secret that any creation to join

fabulous the Private Blend Collection – known

for its artisanal scents – is coveted the
world over. “Private Blend is my own
scent laboratory; it’s where I create
very special, original fragrances that are
unconstrained by the conventions of
mainstream scent-making,” explains Tom
Ford. “Private Blend is designed with the
true fragrance connoisseur in mind.”
Fabulous is no exception. Drawing
upon oriental leather, you can sense the
decadence of the fragrance from the first
spritz. Clary sage entwines with fresh
lavender upon opening, before bitter
almond and vanilla envelop your senses in
an aromatic twist. Orris root, derived from
the iris flower, meets a warm leather heart,
where the richness of tonka bean and
amber is finished with the smoothness of
blond woods.
It’s not just the scent that is to behold.
The sleek and supple packaging hints at
what the bottle contains. Craftsmanship
is key, and an elegant silhouette in matte
black has been carved to offer your dressing
table a new-found beauty. The white label is
simple yet effective, emblazoned with Tom
Ford Fabulous. “It’s undeniably the most
straightforward name for such a scent,”
Ford says. “Why make it complicated? I
have always said things in the most simple
and direct way possible.”
Fabulous by Tom Ford will launch in stores
across the Middle East from April 27

It’s undeniably the

MOST straightforward
name for such a
SCENT. Why make it
complicated?
 THE WELLNESS AREA AT

a
SHA INCLUDES AN EXTENSIVE
HYDRO CIRCUIT OPPOSITE
PAGE THE WORLD-CLASS
DINING AND FACILITIES

healing
THE t Sha Wellness Clinic, guests wander around
in white robes. Massages are a daily activity. It
is the epitome of tranquility. However, it is not
a spa. Medical innovation, natural therapies,
and healthy nutrition are fundamental. Here,
therapists take a full 360° approach to offer
guests a total rejuvenation experience. With programs starting

HOUSE
If you’re in need of more than a massage, head
to Spain for a holistic wellness retreat
Words ALEXANDRA VENISON
at a minimum of four days, guests are encouraged to immerse
themselves in a total wellness experience.
Being situated between the bay of Altea and the lush greenery
of the Sierra Helada park, overlooking the Mediterranean, the
location itself offers a feeling of serenity. The microclimate,
considered to be one of the best in the world, offers the property
sublime weather all year round. The vibe of the property is
minimalist-chic. From the public areas to the suites with their
large terraces inviting natural light to pour in, guests will instantly
feel at peace. It is secluded, allowing its VIP guests – including
Naomi Campbell and Kylie Minogue – complete privacy.
The day begins with a brisk walk. Although not compulsory,
it is highly recommended for the impressive natural scenery.
A quick weigh-in with the nurse follows, and then breakfast.

84
 ‫جمـال‬Beauty

Ingredients like SUGAR,

DAIRY, GLUTEN, and MEAT
are spared in favor of fresh
organic and seasonal produce
health concerns and
a nutritionist to tailor
your diet, as well as a
stress-management
session. Sha is at the
forefront of the latest
medical innovations
and as such employs
All meals at Sha Wellness are tailored by an in-house nutritionist some of the best
according to your health goals. There are three menus based on a practitioners in the
macrobiotic diet: Kushi is for intensive weight loss; Biolight is a world. Case in point:
milder version; and the gastronomic menu Sha. Even those with its preventative and
the most restricted diets can enjoy an assortment of tastes and regenerative medicine looks to groundbreaking biotechnology
impeccable presentation. Ingredients like sugar, dairy, gluten, and working with stem cell therapy, while its cognitive treatments
meat are spared in favor of fresh organic and seasonal produce. work with the latest technologies to check the mental status of the
The concept teaches and inspires guests to adapt their diets individual and help boost their mental state.
without foregoing flavor. An onsite chef also offers cooking classes Practices from the West are partnered with that of the East.
to help guests continue this journey at home. Guests can delve into traditional Chinese medicine and natural
Every day is different – from recovery to weight-loss, anti-stress, therapies, with many of the treatments helping with ailments
and rejuvenation programs. Consultations include meeting the in- regarding lack of energy and trouble sleeping. Likewise,
house nurse to check vitals, appointments with a doctor to discuss physiotherapy and osteopathic treatments ease tension in the body.
Specialty therapists have mastered innovative techniques from

What to pack
shiatsu to chi kung, and there is also a yoga and meditation studio,
a Pilates studio, fitness area, and paddle court. A hydrotherapy
SOLEIL circuit and infinity pool are also available to help visitors unwind.
GUCCI CAP Encouraging guests to put down their electronics, Sha has an
TOUJOURS SHEER
SUNSCREEN MIST impressive library, a cinema with daily movie screenings – no
popcorn allowed – a putting green, and an exhibition room.
ADIDAS X Then, of course, there is the daily schedule, facials, and beauty
STELLA treatments. Stand out treatments include the Indiba, which
MCCARTNEY HUNZA G rebalances cell interaction to rejuvenate the skin and improve the
LEGGINGS SWIMSUIT
NIKE TRAINERS silhouette of both the face and body. For those requiring a little
extra pampering, beauty services include blow dries, manicures,
and pedicures – before it’s back to facing the real world.
From €1 250 for a four-day Sha Discovery program, excluding
accommodation. Shawellnessclinic.com ☐

85
HAIL HIGHLIGHT
You can perfect your skin
without compromising
its health. Marc Jacobs
Shameless Youthful-
Look 24-H Foundation
contains snow mushroom
for hydration and
blue daisy to combat
pollution, which can
leave skin looking dull.
SPF25 offers broad-
spectrum sun protection.
SHAMELESS FOUNDATION IN Y270;
REMEDY CONCEALER PEN IN UP ALL NIGHT;
GLOW STICK GLISTENING ILLUMINATOR
IN SPOTLIGHT; O!MEGA BRONZE PERFECT
TAN IN TAN-TASTIC; AIR BLUSH SOFT GLOW
DUO IN LINES & LAST NIGHT; EYE-CONIC
MULTI-FINISH EYESHADOW PALETTE IN
SCANDALUST; LE MARC LIQUID LIP CRAYON
IN FLAMING-OH!

Spotlight
on skin
Celebrity makeup artist
Hung Vanngo showcases
Marc Jacobs Beauty’s game-
changing new formula,
Shameless Youthful-Look
24-H Foundation
Photography MANN

154
 VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

GO FLAWLESS
Offering a buildable
medium coverage in
29 shades, this formula
can be matched to
MAKEUP HUNG VANNGO HAIR ANNESOFIE BEGTRUP MODEL BRUNA B AT WILHELMINA

any skin tone. With its

natural finish, you will
look picture-perfect no
matter the lighting.
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NIGHT; GLOW STICK GLISTENING
ILLUMINATOR IN SPOTLIGHT; O!MEGA
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MAN.VOGUE.ME

Follow us at
@VOGUEMANARABIA
 New
Tribe
Emerging Middle Eastern
female jewelers absorb
their rich heritage to put a
native spin on accessories
Photography FRANCESCO SCOTTI
Style CLAIRE CARRUTHERS
Words MADIHA SHEIKH
Alia Bin Omair
ART PIECE
Born in the United
Arab Emirates, Alia
Bin Omair draws
creative inspiration
from surrounding
landscapes. With her
latest collection, Leaf,
she looked to palm
trees and nature to
offer contemporary,
handcrafted pieces
that retain the
look and feel of
raw materials.
DRESS, JACQUEMUS AT NET-A-PORTER
 ‫مجوهرات‬Jewelry
(Opening page) Margherita
METAL MAVEN
Looking to Beirut’s modernist architecture, Margherita Abi Hanna creates geometric
pieces in contrasting metals, silver, and concrete. She studied accessories design at
Milan’s Domus Academy and launched her namesake brand in 2010. Her collection,
My Concrete City, pays tribute to the fading buildings of Lebanon’s capital.
BLAZER, HELMUT LANG AT BOUTIQUE 1

Daou Jewellery
SUPERNOVA
Although originally established in the 1930s, Dalia Daou revived her family’s
jewelry legacy in 2016. By combining the brand’s signature statement jewels with
new graphic designs (like the above Spark Cluster earrings), she offers collections
that will appeal to both longtime fans and fashion’s new wave of influencers.
SHIRT, JOSEPH

91
 Dima Kamal
VINTAGE CATHARSIS
Lebanese designer Dima
Kamal’s fascination
with jewelry from the
1920s – in particular
the signet ring – is what
led her to launch her
own collection in 2010.
Working mainly with
gold, she insists each
piece should have a
unique identity and it is
this attention to detail
that makes her work so
precious and impactful.
DRESS, JACQUEMUS AT NET-A-PORTER

92
 ‫مجوهرات‬Jewelry
Joanna Laura
Constantine
POP ART
The 2018 Vogue
Fashion Prize
accessories winner
discovered jewelry
while attending Parsons
School of Design. She
moved to Beirut in
2010 and swiftly
launched her namesake
brand. Plated in gold
and rhodium with
signature pops of color,
Constantine’s jewelry
is joyous, eclectic, and
utterly wearable.
DRESS, PETAR PETROV

93
Karma El Khalil
NOMADIC SPIRIT
Designing is New York-based Karma El Khalil’s gateway to
offering her interpretation of beauty. Her 18kt gold jewelry in a
fusion of geometric shapes and architectural structures, is inspired
by her international upbringing, having lived and studied in
Nigeria, France, Italy, and New York. She combines strong angles
with soft and fluid elements to create abstract baubles.
TURTLENECK, TIBI AT BOUTIQUE 1; DRESS, MARNI
HAIR SOFIE BEGTRUP MAKEUP SARAH DAMICHI MODEL STEPHANIE OMOROJOR AT ELITE
JEWELRY COORDINATOR MOHAMMAD HAZEM REZQ

94
 ‫مجوهرات‬Jewelry
Jude Benhalim
GRAPHIC HERITAGE
Cairo-based designer
Jude Benhalim
launched her brand
in 2011 at the age of
17. She describes her
work as a combination
of contemporary art
and oriental craft, with
her Egyptian heritage
reflected in the subtle
imprints of calligraphy
found on many of her
pieces. The resulting
lineup includes
interchangeable
earrings (right),
necklaces, and cuffs in
sterling silver and resin.
DRESS, AJE AT BOUTIQUE 1
PENÉLOPE CRUZ
WEARING SWAROVSKI
JEWELS AT THIS
YEAR’S GOLDEN
GLOBE AWARDS

e co-conscious is no longer a
tagline; it’s a way of life. With
climate change a pressing
concern, consumers care more
than ever about where and
how things are made. Being
woke about what we buy and use also extends
to our accessories. It’s not enough for jewelry to
just be beautiful anymore, it must also meet the
ethical requirements of today’s educated buyer.
In recent years, the diamond industry has
come under more scrutiny around its carbon
footprint and human impact. Suddenly, there
has not only been a burst of designers working
with fair-trade diamonds, but companies
bypassing the mining system altogether with
artificial diamonds.
Even when traditional mining companies
adopt fair-trade and conflict-free practices, they
still impact the ecosystem. The California-based
Diamond Foundry wants to fix that by ditching
the mine altogether and creating lab-grown
diamonds. CEO Martin Roscheisen believes
tomorrow’s diamond buyers want better. “The
traditional diamond and jewelry industries
have been reinforcing outdated ideals,” he says.
“Millennials are seeking to connect with brands
that associate with their lives in a real way.”
Since starting Diamond Foundry in 2015,
Roscheisen says consumers have been more
than a little responsive to this new approach
– it’s one of the fastest-growing categories in
luxury. Today’s consumer doesn’t just want a
shiny rock, but also a clear conscience.
So how do you make a precious stone?
Diamond Foundry starts with a small bit of
diamond, which is then placed in a reactor with
plasma that is as hot as the outer layer of the sun.
Next, carbon is added, just like what happens

Jewels
naturally. In two to three weeks, a diamond is
formed. The lab-created diamond is chemically,
atomically, and physically identical to one
found in nature. Yet some argue that the energy
it takes to create a lab-grown diamond is doing

The ethical jewelry

industry aims to change

conscience
the way millennials

WIT H A shop for gems

Words CORBIN CHAMBERLIN
 ‫مجوهرات‬Jewelry
just as much harm as traditional mining. And there’s
the value argument. Is a lab-grown stone worth as
much as a natural one?
“For someone who values authenticity, I’m wary of lab-
grown diamonds,” says Dana Al Khalifa, high jewelry curator
for Nuun Jewels and Suzanne Kalan. “I wouldn’t purchase one LEFT SUSTAINABLE
for myself because I prefer a real, true diamond, which I believe STONES BY ALTRUIST
comes with its own energy and vibrations because it is a natural BELOW LEFT
stone extracted from the earth. I don’t think a lab-grown diamond AND CENTER
SWAROVSKI
would have that. It didn’t come to life; it was brought to life by JEWELS WITH
man.” Fine jewelry designer Ralph Masri echoes her sentiment. “I CREATED DIAMONDS
appreciate that lab-grown stones offer a more sustainable solution BELOW LAB-MADE
that eliminates the need for mines and the negative impacts they DIAMONDS BY
DIAMOND FOUNDRY
have on the laborers and the environment. But when talking about
fine jewelry specifically, a strong psychological factor also plays a
role. It would be hard to try to sell to Arab clients – who are more
material-conscious than others – something seen as not being the
‘real deal.’” Masri suggests that fashion jewelry, where design comes
first and raw materials have less importance, could be a potential
home for lab-grown jewels.
Contrary to Middle Eastern expectations, a recent survey by
Brilliant Earth, a brand that offers both lab-created and traditional
diamonds under intense regulations, found that 40% of respondents
aged 18-34 would feel positive about an engagement ring with a
lab diamond. Fashion Prize high jewelry winner Nadine Ghosn
agrees that the new generation of clients will play a role, but that
industry leaders need to be convinced first. “Diamond investments
are irrational and emotional. It will take a while to shift people’s
perspectives to appreciating and understanding the sustainability likes of actors Penélope Cruz and Zendaya.
factor of lab-grown diamonds,” she says. “I don’t think clients Others are thinking beyond the diamond and taking a look at
will invest until we market it as something luxurious and of high sustainable gold and other precious stones. Enter Caroline Combs
value.” Shouq Al Marzook, who, of Altruist, a brand that keeps sustainability in mind. “We as a

with her brother Fahad, is behind the
Kuwaiti accessories brand Marzook,
is optimistic. “Of course, we love to
work with anything sustainable.”
The brand frequently works with
Today’s
society have never been more concerned with the environment. If
everyone did something, we would be in a different place,” Combs
consumer says. Altruist only uses 100% recycled gold and works directly with
its refinery to trace the product from start to finish. This method is
doesn’t just more difficult and more expensive. “It’s definitely costing and going

Swarovski, which started debuting
lab-created gems, including diamonds
and emeralds, in 2017, to decorate
their spherical bags and clutches.
Swarovski’s new high jewelry line
want a SHINY
to cost us more, especially as we get into larger stones,” Combs says.
“But I see it as a long-term investment.”
ROCK, but If you’re going to drive a Tesla or question whether your hair
product is environmentally friendly, make sure to take a look
also a clear inside your jewelry box, too. Consider exchanging the romantic

conscience
featuring lab-made stones is frequently infatuation with traditionally sourced diamonds for falling in love
showcased on the red carpet, on the with something sustainable instead.

Sustainable
sparkle
Chopard has committed to using
responsibly sourced stones, as
worn by Julianne Moore (far
left). By July, it will only use
100% ethical gold in its jewelry
and watches. Arizona Muse
(center) and Thandie Newton
(left) wear Swarovski lab-created
diamonds on the red carpet.

97
 PROENZA
SIDNEY GARBER SCHOULER
18KT GOLD WAVE CUFF TWISTED
METAL CUFF

THE BIG
TIME Lace your wrists
with geometric,
hammered, or
twisted gilded cuffs

LEIGH MILLER VERSACE GOLD-TONE

GOLD-TONE METAL MEDUSA CUFF
BRASS CUFF CHARLOTTE
CHESNAIS
SWING BRACELET

CAROLINA
CERCLE AMÉDÉE BUCCI
CRYSTAL-EMBELLISHED YELLOW GOLD
ENAMEL CUFF AT FLORENTINE
MATCHESFASHION.COM FINISH CUFF

SAINT LAURENT METAL BALL BRACELET

98
 HUBLOT DIAMOND
‫مجوهرات‬Jewelry
EMBELLISHMENT
DESIGNED BY
VAN CLEEF & MAXIME BUCHI DIOR
ARPELS LADY GIVES HUBLOT’S BIG A HIGH-TECH
ARPELS DAY BANG WATCH REAL CERAMIC
AND NIGHT COSMIC POTENTIAL BRACELET
WATCH IN WHITE GIVES THE VIII
GOLD, DIAMOND, STAR QUALITY
AND MOTHER-
OF-PEARL IS AN
ASTRONOMICAL
MASTERPIECE

OFF-WHITE
SWAROVSKI WITH
HIGH-SHINE VINYL BAUME &
DOMINATING THE MERCIER A
RUNWAYS, SWAROVSKI DIAMOND-SET
HAS LAUNCHED DIAL ADDS
THE COSMIC ROCK AN ELEGANT
COLLECTION, TOUCH TO THE
COMPLETE WITH NEW PROMESSE
BLACK CRYSTALS STEEL WATCH

TIFFANY & CO.

FOR CLASSIC
TYPES, THIS WHITE
COCKTAIL WATCH

FASHION
ALEXANDER McQUEEN

IN STAINLESS
STEEL WITH
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIGITAL, ACE AMIR COMPILED BY CLAIRE CARRUTHERS

BRILLIANT-CUT
DIAMONDS IS THE

FACES
PERFECT STYLE

IWC PAIR THIS

TRIBUTE TO THE
PALLWEBER
Where fashion’s modernistic catwalks TIMEPIECE,
FEATURING AN
led, watches followed in a galactic ALLIGATOR STRAP,
WITH PARED-DOWN
palette of monochrome and silver MONOCHROME
TAILORING
vog
April 2018
gu
Introducing
the new faces
encapsulating
the fashion
zeitgeist. This
season we go
stratospheric
 ‫توب وفستان من‬
‫؛ قبعة‬LOUIS VUITTON
FAETH MILLINERY ‫من‬
‫الصفحة المقابلة‬
‫فستان وقرطان‬
‫؛ توربان من‬GUCCI ‫من‬
ELLEN CHRISTINE
TOP, DRESS, LOUIS
VUITTON; HAT, FAETH
MILLINERY OPPOSITE
DRESS, EARRINGS,
GUCCI; TURBAN, ELLEN
CHRISTINE

102
Speaking
In dazzling
sequins
and flyaway
sheers, Adwoa
Aboah sets
the scene for
a scintillating
night
Photography CASS BIRD
Fashion director KATIE TROTTER

VOLUMES
‫فستان وقرطان من‬
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
DRESS, EARRINGS, JEAN
PAUL GAULTIER

104
 JUNYA ‫فستان من‬
‫؛ حذاء من‬WATANABE
FAETH ‫؛ قبعة من‬GUCCI
‫؛ قفازان من‬MILLINERY
GARO SPARO
DRESS, JUNYA
WATANABE; SHOES, GUCCI;
HAT, FAETH MILLINERY;
GLOVES, GARO SPARO
‫فستان وسوار من‬
SAINT LAURENT
DRESS, BRACELET,
SAINT LAURENT
 ‫بلوزة وبنطلون من‬
‫؛ حذاء من‬JEREMY SCOTT
GARO ‫؛ قفازان من‬GUCCI
‫؛ إكسسوار لألذن‬SPARO
HOUSE OF MALAKAI ‫من‬
SHIRT, PANTS, JEREMY
SCOTT; SHOES, GUCCI;
GLOVES, GARO SPARO; EAR
CUFF, HOUSE OF MALAKAI

107
‫«بوديسوت» وتنورة وحذاء طويل‬
DIOR ‫الساق ومجوهرات من‬
BODYSUIT, SKIRT, BOOTS, JEWELRY, DIOR
MAKEUP HANNAH MURRAY MAKEUP
ASSISTANT KATIE ROBINSON NAILS
LOLLY KOON LIGHTING DIRECTOR JON
HELLER CAMERA ASSISTANT CLAY
HOWARD SMITH LIGHTING ASSISTANTS
ZANE SCHAFFER, TYLER ROSTE DIGITAL
TECH ANTHONY MILLER FASHION
ASSISTANTS MOHAMMAD HAZEM
REZQ, ALEKSANDRA MARKOVIC, NICK
BROWNE SET DESIGN JACK FLANAGAN
PRODUCTION TYLER STRAWHECKER

108
Maria Grazia Chiuri
Interviews

ADWOA ABOAH
t he glamour of magazine covers and the
When two powerful The first time the designer and model worked
excitement of the runway are bait for pioneers come together, together was for Chiuri’s debut pre-collection
millions of girls who aspire to become
models. The industry is tough and
paradigms shift – as at Dior, which was followed by a shoot for Dior
Mag. But what started as a working relationship
competitive, and it is easy for a beginner when Dior artistic soon escalated to something more meaningful.
to feel lost in the crowd. There are cases, however,
when unique looks and an engaging personality
director Maria Grazia “When I finally met her in person and I was
able to speak with her about her projects and
create an irresistible mix. Some call it star power; Chiuri met model and her ‘militant’ activism, I knew she was the
others, the X factor. The fashion world calls it activist Adwoa Aboah to perfect person to interpret the spirit of ‘my’
“Adwoa Aboah.”
Hailing from an influential industry family discuss female unity Dior,” Chiuri says. “There is a new generation
of models who work in the industry but pursue
(her mother is Camilla Lowther, founder of
photography agency CLM), Aboah rose rapidly
and empowerment their own projects as well. Adwoa is one of them.
It is powerful and encouraging to see a young girl
to fame, accumulating covers for US, Italian, like her use her time to help other women.”
Mexican, Spanish, British, and now Arabian Vogue along the way. She Chiuri is referring to Aboah’s Gurls Talk platform, with its
was also named Model of the Year at the 2017 British Fashion Awards. 165 000 Instagram followers, website, and events that celebrate women
For Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior, Aboah is much and give them a safe space to share their stories. Instead of the classic
more than a pretty, yet unconventional, face. Her heart-shaped visage bikini images many top models choose to post to increase their social
is a glowing honey color speckled with freckles, while her wide-set, media reach, Aboah prefers to share messages of inclusion, love, and
hazel eyes seem to convey wisdom beyond her 25 years. “I first noticed empowerment. Gurlstalk.com features articles discussing topics girls
Adwoa on the catwalks,” says Chiuri. “What struck me was how she might feel embarrassed to ask about. “What I admire is the strength and
understood modeling as a profession that comes with heightened passion with which she has created Gurls Talk. She has a unique sense
visibility and, therefore, great responsibility.” of responsibility,” Chiuri continues. “Adwoa may be young, but she

110

has made clear choices, and her engagement is genuine and incredibly
powerful. I have learned a lot from young women like her, who decided
to feel good about themselves and claimed the right to be themselves,
using their own experiences to denounce certain situations.” Chiuri and
Aboah sit down to discuss strong role models, reaching out to girls, and
what’s important for women today.
MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI: How were you discovered?
ADWOA ABOAH: I was discovered at a school fashion show and then
scouted outside Topshop on Oxford Street a few times. I didn’t have
any interest in modeling, so I waited before meeting with Sarah Doukas
from Storm Models, who was
a family friend. Modeling
was certainly something that
seemed exciting and I loved
the idea of getting dressed
up. But I didn’t have the
confidence or any thought
that I would actually become
a model. It seemed completely
out of reach.
MGC: Did confidence come
with age?
AA: Confidence grows with TOP ADWOA ABOAH AT THE 2017 BRITISH FASHION AWARDS TOP RIGHT WITH SCARLETT JOHANSSON
age and the more I work, IN GHOST IN THE SHELL (2017) ABOVE ABOAH ON THE COVER OF BRITISH, US, AND SPANISH VOGUE
the more I understand the
relationship between the model and the photographer, and the model,
the crew, and the publication; what it is they want and how we can
create something together. I now understand what is needed. It is not
just about coming on set and being a model, it is about trusting my
intuition and creating a character.
MGC: How did you come up with the idea for Gurls Talk?
AA: For me, Gurls Talk is a safe place and community – a tribe that I
spent so much of my younger years trying to find to feel less alone. It is a
platform with no stigma and nothing is taboo. We base ourselves on the
simple idea that if we talk about issues, we break boundaries and create a
space where everything is out in the open.
MGC: When you founded it, who did you want to help?
AA: There wasn’t a particular girl I felt I wanted to help. I think this is
the beauty of Gurls Talk. It is aimed at every girl. It’s not dependent on
demographic or what you have necessarily been through.
MGC: Were you motivated by your own personal issues?
AA: My story was somewhat traumatic. It is exhausting to look back on
something that was a difficult time for myself and my family. [Aboah
has struggled with addiction.] But I’ve become used to it and it is not
scary anymore. Instead of focusing on myself, I prefer helping others and
PHOTOGRAPHS SOPHIE CARRE, REX
giving them a platform. I’m proud of where I am now and of my ability
to push through difficult situations.
MGC: What is the most beautiful aspect of creating a community
of women supporting each other?
AA: Perhaps in a selfish way, I have created something I feel very much
a part of: a tribe of women who are like-minded and who make me feel
I’m so
PROUD to
be a woman
now
safe and comfortable and loved.
Being able to create a safe place for
them is magical and something
I am truly thankful for.
MGC: What is the most important
thing for women today?
AA: Camaraderie, sticking
together, and respecting one
another, whatever your opinion
may be. The more we stick
together, the better chance we
have of making changes. I’m so proud to be a woman now. MGC:
Where do you get your strength and your inspiration from?
AA: From the Gurls Talk team and community, and every single girl
who comes up to me to talk. I’m also inspired by my sister, my family,
and the wonderful women I get to meet every day.
MGC: Do you ever feel the need to have some time for yourself?
AA: I always need time for myself. For me, it is not just about coming on
set and being on my phone and not talking to anyone. It is about creating
relationships and working with these people again – if we get along, that
is. When I am exhausted and have had enough of everything, it’s tough
to do that. I work hard to get a good photo, and by giving away part
of myself, I also give away a lot of energy. When you are in a bad place,
having your own space is important. During fashion week, I surround
myself with friends; that keeps me grounded. I am also lucky to be at an
age and place in my career where I have a supportive team around me.
MGC: I am fascinated by your tattoos, in particular the one on your
hand which reads “power.” Can you tell us what pushed you to get it?
AA: I wish it had more thought behind it than it does! I was participating
in a documentary series for Vice and ID and I thought I would look cool
on camera if I had a tattoo [laughs].
MGC: Would you like to leave a message for the Arab women
reading this?
AA: I very much respect their courage to make changes. I find it
empowering to have watched from afar what they have all achieved and
I would like to learn more from them. I think other parts of the world
would love to hear more of their story. ☐
 Taking
OVER A new crop
i
of designers
n 2018, a fashion house is not a home – not is leading the
unless the designer living there is able to
transform it so that it reflects our lives and times
legacy fashion
rather than some vainglorious past. A respectful houses –
reverence for the way things once were is one
thing, but no one wants (or wants to wear) a
and they are
timid tiptoe through a house’s greatest hits. shaking up
Thankfully the last couple of years have seen houses
taken over by designers who aren’t interested in just
the industry
blithely looking back. It’s a big world out there – show Photography
that you actually live in it and put out work that’s
MIKAEL JANSSON
both personal and real. The appearance of Alessandro
Michele at Gucci in 2015 kick-started a revolution Words NICK REMSEN
in the industry that’s still being felt. Michele was an
unknown studio stalwart of two-plus decades who
manned up – in bejeweled brocades and masses of rings – to take on
a label that was threatening to lose its luster. His riotous celebration
of outsider beauty and embrace of diversity didn’t just give us all
some thrilling stuff to wear; it provided a gorgeous, sparkly brew that
was a delicious corrective to the challenging and oftentimes nasty
narratives coming at us from elsewhere.
In the space of a mere two years or so, there has been a remarkable
number of names arriving at some of the most storied houses, and we
celebrate them this month by photographing their SS18 collections
on an equally compelling cast of characters. Some of these designers
are further into their respective home renovations than others, yet
112
they all share the viewpoint that we can’t be shackled to
the old way of doing things. (And expect more of that
when, later this year, Hedi Slimane arrives at Céline.)
Raf Simons, a conceptually inclined, couture-trained
Flemish provocateur, left Europe for the New World
and Calvin Klein in 2016 and quickly held up a mirror
to America. Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga (2015) and
Francesco Risso at Marni (2016) – raw, uncompromising
young talent brimming with vigorous ideas – arrived to
question all our assumptions on luxury and status, the
twin underpinnings that fashion has always held dear.
What they do is still beautiful – you simply have to
behold it differently.
A troika of fantastically assured women – Maria
Grazia Chiuri at Dior (2016), Natacha Ramsay-Levi at
Chloé, and Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy (the last two both 2017)
– put the boys’ club on notice and infused their labels with a feminist
approach, which added serious substance to their street-inflected style.
Lastly, a young man got the gig of a lifetime nearly two years ago.
The Belgian Anthony Vaccarello took over Saint Laurent from Hedi
Slimane and brought alluring appeal, and diversity, to YSL again.
Vaccarello’s spring collection was presented in the shadow of the
Eiffel Tower, which dramatically lit up the minute the show started.
High-stakes theatrics, for sure, but also a brilliant reminder that
if you’re going to take on a house today, you’d also better light the
way forward.
CA LV I N K L E I N
by Raf Simons
Nicki Minaj
The 35-year-old songwriter,
producer, and philanthropist (last
year, she tweeted to fans that
she’d cover college tuition for
any of them with straight-A report
cards) is no stranger to reinvention.
The Queens-raised prodigy has
changed – and opened up – the
rap world by being fearlessly
adaptive in her ascent to the top of
that game (and with the upcoming
release of her long-awaited fourth
album seems destined to remain
there). She’s inhabited a male
alter ego, Roman Zolanski, and
a cyborg speed demon with
pale-pink braids that whip the
floor; she’s played a more delicate
Barbie type while simultaneously
proclaiming herself the “King.”
“Transforming, to me, means
changing for the better based on
your experiences,” she says. “I’m
equipped to be a better boss now.”

DRESS AND SHOES, CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC

 CHLOÉ by
Natacha
Ramsay-Levi
Vittoria Ceretti
The Italian model, 19, had a
big 2017, shooting campaigns
for everyone from Chanel to
Loewe (along with a cavalcade
of runway shows). Her particular
magic: Ceretti can switch
easily between downtown
tomboy and uptown sovereign
– a transformative look that,
unsurprisingly, has garnered
admirers industrywide. And
while she intends to continue
modeling full-time, Ceretti would
like to try acting next. “I don’t
know if I’m going to be good at
it!” she says with both hope and
humor. “But I want to try.”

DRESS, NECKLACE, CHLOÉ

MARNI by
Francesco Risso
Margaret Qualley
This year brings a pair of new
films for Qualley, 23, who’s played
everything from a mutant socialite
(in Spike Jonze’s Kenzo shoot) to
a nun-in-training (in Maggie Betts’s
Novitiate), along with a regular
role on HBO’s The Leftovers. In the
upcoming Donnybrook, a fight-
to-the-death noir, Qualley is the
hardscrabble sister of a man who
bare-knuckles it for a chance to
win US $100 000. It’s the sort of
lane-switching that has proven her
an entirely charming actor – and a
natural-born chameleon.

DRESS, MARNI

115
BALENCIAGA by
Demna Gvasalia
Teddy Quinlivan, Lauren Ridloff,
Bunny Rogers, Agnez Mo, Alek
Wek, and Bria Vinaite
From left: Teddy Quinlivan, 23, a
fiercely outspoken model who has
worked for everyone from Balenciaga
to Pat McGrath; Lauren Ridloff, 39,
a boundary-breaking deaf actor
starring in Broadway’s Children of
a Lesser God; Bunny Rogers, 28, a
provocative conceptual artist who had
a solo show at the Whitney; Agnez
Mo, 31, the breakout Indonesian pop
star, songwriter, actor, producer, and
anti-drug and anti-human trafficking
activist; Alek Wek, 40, the legendary
South Sudanese model turned goodwill
ambassador for the United Nations;
and Bria Vinaite, 24, the star of last
year’s much-acclaimed The Florida
Project. “I want to work on stories that
most likely wouldn’t be told otherwise,”
Vinaite says. Watch these spaces.

ALL CLOTHES, ACCESSORIES, BALENCIAGA

116
 SAINT LAURENT by
A n t h o n y Va c c a r e l l o
Clara McGregor, Coco Gordon Moore,
Selah Marley
An ambitious group of millennials with
famous parents are showing moxie of their
own and putting the “multi” in multitalented.
From left: Clara McGregor, 22, who finished
her cinema-studies major at NYU’s Tisch
School of the Arts at the end of 2017,
aims to act, write, direct, and get back into
photography, her original passion. “I want
to tell stories about important women,” she
says. Coco Gordon Moore, 23, is a painter
and poet whose work often combines the two
disciplines, focusing on “women reclaiming
their bodies.” Selah Marley, 19, is working
in video and cinematography, music, and
fashion – “and I’ve been doing trapeze and
am starting aerial silk classes,” she says.
“I want to get into my body.”

ALL CLOTHES, ACCESSORIES, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

118
 GIVENCHY by
C l a r e Wa i g h t
Keller
Gigi Hadid
With her megawatt beauty – a
combination of pouty lips and
sparkling doe eyes – winning her
an extensive list of campaigns
and catwalks as well as lucrative
collaboration projects, Hadid, 22,
is on her way to becoming not
only the supermodel of her era
but a fashion mogul to boot. Her
number-one priority (which doubles
as an intuitive coping strategy):
to be receptive and reflexive – to
not be too worried about things
beyond the moment. “It’s important
to always be ready, and when you
come to work being inspired by
things outside the fashion industry,
it makes the work better.”

DRESS, GIVENCHY; SHOES, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

FASHION EDITOR CAMILLA NICKERSON HAIR KIM KIMBLE,
SHAY ASHUAL MAKEUP SHEIKA DALEY, DICK PAGE
 THE
invisible

MAVERICK
Two spring exhibitions in Paris dedicated to Martin Margiela remind the
world who did it first – and why an original point of view is forever in fashion
Words CATERINA MINTHE

120

t
he Palais Galliera, the Paris museum dedicated to
fashion and its history, opened a new temporary
exhibition during fashion week in March: Margiela
Galliera 1989-2009. The first retrospective in the city
devoted to Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela
is part of a bigger theme; a veritable Margiela “season.”
It also opens Margiela, The Hermès Years exhibition
at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which debuted in
the designer’s hometown of Antwerp last year.
The season of Margiela comes at an apt time. References to his
work are being pulled from some of the most coveted brands today.
A stroll through the Galliera exhibition is a reminder that Margiela
first dared years ago what is being naively hailed as fresh today. If he
always stayed behind the scenes and never gave interviews, he was
fully immersed in his work, and even this exhibition dedicated to
it. Enthusiastically lending many pieces from his archives, he was
involved since the beginning, when former Galliera director Olivier
Saillard suggested the retrospective to him. He personally selected
each of the 130 silhouettes, the scenographer Ania Martchenko,
and worked on the scenography with her – even painting some of
the mannequins and styling their hairdos.
Born in 1957 in Louvain, a small Flemish Belgian town,
Margiela attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.
Soon afterward, he left for Paris. Following three formative years
working as assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier (1984-1987), he started
his own fashion house. Perhaps because Margiela launched at
a time when fashion was at the height of its brash glamour era,
which would soon transition to the grunge expressions of the early
122
FAR LEFT WIGS
AND HAIRPIECES
JACKET, FW2008
LEFT JACKET AND
DRESS, SS199 BELOW
FW1989 WAISTCOAT
WITH PORCELAIN
AND EARTHENWARE
SPLINTERS, FW1986
NARROW SUIT JACKET
PREVIOUS PAGE
RIBBON WORN AS
RINGS, FW1989;
PRINTED SILK SATIN
POSTER WORN AS A
DRESS, SS09
90s, his ethos, based on fundamental “artisanal” practices – a chic,
conceptual word for “recycling” – shocked. Along with making
new clothes with the precious scraps of recovered materials hunted
at flea markets, or ball gowns from theater wardrobes, Margiela
was a virtuoso of construction. The Galliera exhibition proves
this and more with clothes, how-tos (like how to make a sweater
with eight socks), videos, and show excerpts in random locations
– metro stations and car parks – to the music of Iggy Pop and The
Velvet Underground. All invite visitors to come face-to-face with
the man who has none.
Wander through the labyrinth of gray halls of the Galliera
exhibition and the visitor is immersed in a timeline of the Belgian
designer’s exploits only matched by his communication coups. In
his first five years, he introduced the split-toed tabi boot, giving
models, whose faces were covered with veils to draw attention to
the clothes, the appearance of walking barefoot. He quickly made
the 80s shoulder passé by way of introducing a tight and narrow
shoulder with raised sleeve heads. Margiela, whose favorite colors
were white, black, and red next showcased a trompe l’oeil mesh shirt

Margiela questioned
CONFORMITY with
every turn of a seam
printed with graphic motifs. A close look at his clothes revealed
expert technique. But when he wanted to study haute couture
draping, he went to Hieron Pessers – Hubert de Givenchy’s
premier d’atelier. And when choosing the models for his shows, he
eschewed supermodels, preferring to work with women of all ages.
In 1997, Margiela was invited to helm Hermès women’s
ready-to-wear. During this six-year period, he drew the eye to his
impeccable detailing. To wit: he waved away logos and instead
designed hand-sewn buttons stitched to form an H for Hermès.
Margiela had his pick of the finest leathers and the softest cashmere.
He used these materials to dress women who celebrated their
independence, not their fading youth. His clothes were malleable,
and designed to adapt to the wearer, not vice versa. A cashmere
vareuse sweater featured a deep V-neck. This allowed women to
easily tie it around their shoulders or waist and also protected their
hair when it was pulled over. Margiela didn’t just put himself in
the skin of a woman, but in their heads, too. Equipped with some
of the best craftsmen, he guaranteed that the insides of his clothes
were as beautifully crafted as the outsides. He also traded color for
PHOTOGRAPHS PIERRE ANTOINE, ROGER VIOLLET
tones. All this shifted the perception of luxury – as not something
for show, but something intimate to be enjoyed first and foremost
by the woman herself.
At his namesake house, he was blending stockman silhouettes
with plastrons and jackets, blurring the lines of manufacturing and
finishing. Duvet coats would soon follow. Goose down blankets
offered its wearers comfort and protection in the uncertain age of
the turn of the century and all the computer bugs that would come
with it. In the year 2000, the trend was slim fit, and so Margiela
LEFT A TOP MADE
OF INSIDE-OUT WIGS,
FW05 RIGHT A PAIR
OF GRAFFIT TABI BOOTS
BELOW A TOP MADE
OF RECLAIMED BRAND
LABELS AND TAGS AND
BOTTOM MADE FROM
RECLAIMED PLEATED
SKIRTS, SS01
introduced XXXXL fashion. So expansive was this new landscape
that he massaged the concept for five collections and created not
just oversized shirts and pants (today known as the boyfriend
look) but also capes and skirts with elastic waists. Looking back,
it is somewhat ironic that humans’ physical sizes have grown
exponentially. On a more elegant note, so have women’s roles in
the workplace. The overblown proportions were a sign of times
to come – almost 20 years later, they have shifted from Maison
Margiela’s runway to the high street. And then, on the night of
his two-decade anniversary, during a show that celebrated all 40
collections, Margiela bid adieu.
Margiela questioned conformity with every turn of a seam. He
made clothes for a budding tribe of women who were the mirror
of himself – those who were not identified by their physicality but
by their ideas. Emerging from the rabbit hole that is the Galliera
exhibition one is enlightened – it is an intangible gift from one
of the last living designers to renew fashion’s all-too cyclical
vocabulary. Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009 is on at the Palais
Galliera in Paris until July 15. Margiela, The Hermès Years is on at
Musée des Arts décoratifs in Paris until September 2. ☐
123
 A cultivated

Four of the
region’s most
groundbreaking
female art
collectors open
up to Vogue
Arabia, revealing
anything but
blank walls

OBSESSION
Photography MARIA JELENAH,
MARYAM EISLER,
DJINANE ALSUWAYEH
Words DANNA LORCH
c an you buy art based on an algorithm for financial
investment? “Sure, just like you can buy a car,” jokes
Myrna Ayad, director of Art Dubai. “But that takes
so much fun and enlightenment out of the process.
Buying art can be financially beneficial, but I would
much rather subscribe to buying art being beneficial for your mind
and passion, in addition to its aesthetic pleasure.”
Although there has been a thriving creative scene in the region
for decades, the roots of the commercial art market were planted
with the opening of Christie’s Middle East and Art Dubai in
artistic platform Dar El Fan in Beirut in 1967. Princess Wijdan
Ali opened Jordan’s National Gallery of Fine Arts in 1979 with
works from her own collection, and Sheikha Salama Bint Hamdan
Al Nahyan established a namesake foundation in Abu Dhabi.
While the perception of a collector is someone with a vast
number of works at their disposal, Salma Shaheem, the head of
Middle Eastern markets at the Fine Art Group, argues, “A valuable
collection can start with as little as five or six very rare, museum-
quality pieces.” Even if this level of investment is not a reality, a
collection can begin with just one standout work on paper by a
2006. It has rapidly flourished and art from the region is now favorite artist, a piece you return to with every morning coffee,
being shown and sold in cities worldwide – and women are at as though lingering in conversation with the work. Four female
the forefront. “We had many women pioneers in the region’s art collectors from the region are proving that collecting is not a staid
scene and that continues today – women dominate,” Ayad says. hobby focused on financial returns, but rather a full-time pursuit
Some of the early starters include Janine Rubeiz, who founded incorporating philanthropy, patronage, and community.
BELOW “THE STRAW” BY MICHAEL BORREMANS OVERLOOKS THE “FASCIA” SCULPTURE BY REBECCA WARREN. CERITH WYN
EVAN’S NEON WORDS ADORN THE CEILING RIGHT MARIA SUKKAR WITH PAWEL ALTHAMER’S SCULPTURE “SELF-PORTRAIT AS
THE BILLY GOAT” AND THOMAS HOUSEAGO’S “EARTH MASK” ON THE WALL SHIRT, STELLA MCCARTNEY AT SELFRIDGES; JEANS,
SIWY; BOOTS, ISABEL MARANT BOTTOM “FAMILY NEST NO 2” BY SUBODH GUPTA OPPOSITE MARIA SUKKAR WITH HANS
JOSEPHSOHN’S “UNTITLED” DRESS, ZEUS + DIONE; SNEAKERS, ADIDAS

MARIA SUKKAR
Maria Sukkar has built a remarkable collection with her husband, Malek. They
tend to harmonize in taste. “We try to agree on most works,” she says. “We try,”
she repeats, laughing a little. “We allow one another 10% deviation. Not because I
don’t like what he has chosen, but because sometimes I think a work is a little too
far out, too edgy. I think he does the same.” The family’s Victorian townhouse in
London is so filled that the Lebanese Sukkar admits to having removed practical
seating in order to fit more art.
Their collection is titled ISelf. Like a coin with two sides, “One side is quite
tough, brutal, full of angst, and visceral to look at, and is mirrored in pieces by
Jenny Saville and big sculpture works by artists like Antony Gormley. The other
side is more feminine. This is me. Domestic and spiritual, and that is reflected
with pieces by artists like Louise Bourgeois and Tracey Emin.”
Through leadership positions, Sukkar supports the Delfina Foundation, The
New Museum, and the Tate Modern. As part of Whitechapel Gallery’s initiative
to open up seldom seen collections to the public, pieces from the ISelf Collection
have been on view at the London Gallery since April last year and will continue
to be exhibited until August.

125
 I no longer buy from
dead artists. I have a
very strong preference
to buy from LIVING
ARTISTS

RANA SADIK
Rana Sadik’s role in the art world transcends labels
of any kind. Is she a collector, patron, or curator?
Does it even matter? Ever the nonconformist
thinker, she states, “These are oversimplified
terms, because the cultural landscape requires
you to be all those at once if you are looking to
be effective.” Sadik’s studio, minRASY Projects,
regularly runs interventions around the region,
memorably among them “Study for a Domiciled
Gallery (2015),” in which the art and furnishings of her own living room were TOP LEFT A CHRISTTO+ANDREW
transported to Kuwait’s Museum of Modern Art, then displayed in sterile PHOTOGRAPH HANGS ABOVE AN
ATELIER VAN LIESHOUT CONSOLE
glass cases to provoke discussion about unspoken protocols of collecting, ABOVE A JOHANNA GRAWUNDER
particularly in countries where immigration is non-fixed. DISKY LIGHT FITTING PRESIDES
The collection Sadik keeps with her husband, Samer Younis, in their Kuwait OVER THE MADISON TABLE AND
home is a separate matter altogether. “It is based around politics. It began more PETER TRAAG FOR EDRA CHAIRS.
A COLORFUL HAMRA ABBAS PIECE
than 20 years ago at a time when people thought it was unusual to collect things HANGS ON THE WALL LEFT A
with a message rather than things with symbolic meanings, like doves, olive tree BOFI CONSOLE AND ADAM HENIN
branches, and keys.” She claims to have no favorite. However, she has a few rules SCULPTURE UNDERNEATH A HALIM
for acquiring. “I no longer buy from dead artists. I have a very strong preference KARABIBENE PIECE ON THE WALL
to buy from living artists. If I can meet them or their studio, that’s great.”
 RANA SADIK IN THE SALON,
WITH YELLOW AND RED
CHAIRS BY GAETANO
PESCE, TRIPTYCH GOLD
LEAF PANELS BY STUDIO
JOB, A BRONZE TABLE BY
ATELIER VAN LIESHOUT, AND
ANTIQUE WONDER CABINET
SHIRT, PANTS, SHOES, CÉLINE

127
MOUNA ATASSI WITH AKTHAM ABDULHAMID’S
“UNTITLED” WOOD SCULPTURE
DRESS, MADIYAH AL SHARQI
 LEFT LOTFI AL
ROMHEIN’S “UNTITLED” M O U NA ATA S S I
SCULPTURE BELOW Mouna Atassi and her sister Mayla’s art gallery in Homs, Syria, was a legendary
ALI KAAF’S INK PAINTING
“RIFT” BOTTOM gathering place in the 80s and 90s for those modern Syrian artists whose names
RIGHTTHE FAMILY dapple today’s auctions. The refined Atassi believes that artists are “always the
ROOM FEATURES conscience of society,” so when the civil war forced her to shutter the gallery and
LOUAY KAYYALI’S
“PICKING COTTON” OIL move to Dubai, she and her family formed the Atassi Foundation in 2015 as a
PAINTING, AS WELL AS home for the study of Syrian art. This encompasses an astoundingly thorough
SCULPTURES BY LUTFI collection and includes work by some of Atassi’s greatest friends, such as Fateh
AL ROMHEIN HUSSEIN Moudarres, who once frequented the family’s mountain home.
MADI BOTTOM
LEFT TAWFIK TAREK’S Brushing away the prestige factor with a wave of her hand, Atassi says,
“UNTITLED” OIL PAINTING “The collection is around 450 works, but that’s not
what’s important. Its importance stems from the
fact that it is coherently Syrian, covering more than
100 years of artistic production in Syria.” So far, the
Atassi Foundation has taken a pop-up approach, most
notably presenting “Syria Into the Light,” the inaugural
exhibition at Concrete, the Rem Koolhaas-designed
space on Dubai’s Alserkal Avenue. Atassi’s pet project,
the Modern Art Syria Archive, an online research
platform for the study of Syrian art is in the works next.

Artists are
always the
conscience of
SOCIETY

129
 Art is about how the universal
language of creativity can be used for
SOCIAL CHANGE

TOP LEFT “THE GREAT” BY

SCULPTOR UGO RONDINON
ABOVE EVA ROTHSCHILD’S
“ME AND YOU AND YOU”
SCULPTURE AND GEORGE
CONDO’S “PACIFIC COAST
HIGHWAY” BELOW
“UNTITLED” BY ANISH
KAPOOR LEFT THE LIVING
ROOM, FEATURING CINDY
SHERMAN’S “UNTITLED
#548” AS WELL AS WORKS
BY URS FISCHER AND
ADRIAN VILLAR ROJAS

M AYA R A S A M N Y
Maya Rasamny’s love of art often blinds her to the practicalities of its placement
in her London apartment. “Sometimes I buy work that is extremely heavy and I
don’t think about the actual logistics until it arrives,” she says. A Cindy Sherman
self-portrait featuring clothes from the Chanel archive was gracelessly hoisted
through a window. A massive stainless steel Urs Fischer sculpture addressing
domesticity through the image of an iron board silkscreened on all sides was
nearly impossible to get in the elevator.
Rasamny left Lebanon for the UK as a child, then found her place in the art
world after studying at Christie’s Education. It was an encounter with one of
Egyptian artist Ghada Amer’s embroidered canvases at a fair that ignited her
desire to collect. One of Art Dubai’s initial patrons, she now co-heads the Tate
Modern’s committee on Middle East and North African acquisitions, along
with her friend Maryam Eisler – the role affords her the opportunity to host art
salons, dinners, and discussions in her home for the Tate and other institutions.
“It’s not just about buying art for me anymore,” she says. “It’s about powerful
connections and inspiring conversations made through art, and how the
universal language of creativity can be used for social change. I have a collection,
but what has taken over is an adventure of curiosity and discovery.” ☐

130
 MAYA RASAMNY WITH ETEL
ADNAN’S “UNTITLED (BEIRUT)”
ON THE WALL AND REBECCA
WARREN’S “TOTEM” SCULPTURE
SHIRT, STELLA MCCARTNEY AT
SELFRIDGES; SKIRT, TIBI
DUBAI: Main Branch: +971 4 337 0116, Jumeirah: +971 4 340 0559 - ABU DHABI: +971 2 6797040
SHARJAH: +971 6 5393082 - AL AIN: +971 3 7211233 - RAS AL KHAIMAH: +971 7 2434044

www.interiorsfurniture.com InteriorsFurnitureUAE InteriorsUAE

 Hidden
REFUGE
Dsquared2 designers Dean and Dan Caten
open a private guest house in the heart of
Milan filled with eclectic, bespoke design
Words KARINE MONIÉ
BROTHERS DAN (LEFT)
AND DEAN CATEN IN THEIR
GUEST HOUSE IN ITALY
 ocated in Milan’s former national energy
building, the Dsquared2 headquarters,
helmed by founding twin brothers and
designers Dean and Dan Caten, is a 1930s
brick building from the fascist era. It’s a
stone’s throw from 10 Corso Como, one
of the most stylish hotspots in Milan,
featuring an art gallery, bookshop, garden
cafe, and design and fashion store. It’s also home to Ceresio 7, a
boutique lifestyle complex with a spa, restaurant, two swimming
pools, and a terrace with views of the skyline. “The guest house
completes and intensifies our Dsquared2 lifestyle project,” the
Catens say.
The Canadian brothers moved to Italy
in 1992 and were quickly seduced by the
Italian way of life. The country is in their
We are perfectionists
blood, after all – their father was born in in everything we do. It is
Casalvieri, and the Catens were recently
offered the keys to the city. a STATE of MIND
134
The guest house offers a modest exterior that gives no hint as
to what it harbors. “From the outside, it is rigorous,” concur the
designers. “But inside you will find so much that characterizes
our style.” Three floors offer a 500 sqm space, while a 180 sqm
terrace presents an intimate outdoor area in the center of the
city. The architectural focal point of the front entry room (and
more broadly of the whole house), is a grand, sinuous staircase
in sage green silk velvet with black wood and a brass banister.
It is set against walls featuring floor-to-ceiling pivoting mirrors.
Welcoming guests is a Rönisch piano. Overhead, a chandelier
that previously hung in the hall of the Milano Centrale Train
Station floods the room with light, creating contrasts in the
otherwise opaque space.
On the spacious ground level, black
slate floors are decorated with silk rugs,
establishing the mood of a luxurious
gentlemen’s club. To ensure privacy, all
the windows in the house are fitted with
double screening and dressed with dark
 ‫حياة‬Living
THE LOUNGE AREA WHERE
BLACK LEATHER AND BRONZE
FURNITURE GIVE A GRAPHIC
FEEL OPPOSITE THE
CHEST OF DRAWERS AND THE
BOOKCASES IN THE LIBRARY
WERE MADE BY STORAGE
ASSOCIATI, WITH A BASQUIAT
PAINTING ON THE WALL
 CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT IN THE DINING ROOM,
GUESTS CAN ENJOY MEALS
BY CHEF ELIO SIRONI;
THE GRAND STAIRCASE
AND CHANDELIER FROM
THE MILANO CENTRALE
TRAIN STATION; THE
BROTHERS IN A DINING
NOOK; THE LOUNGE WITH
MIDNIGHT BLUE EMBOSSED
WALLPAPER; CHANDELIERS
CREATE AN OPULENT,
LUXURIOUS FEEL
 ‫حياة‬Living
THE HOUSE LIES AT
THE END OF A LONG,
STATELY DRIVEWAY

curtains. Treated with hot Microtopping – a concrete coating

with a modern aesthetic – the walls are textured and accented
with two black Marquina marble fireplaces. Adorned with hand-
painted and embroidered silk wallpaper, a charming alcove is
furnished with a large sofa in ivory velvet and satin. “The furniture
is all bespoke,” explain the designers. “It reflects and enhances
a nostalgic sartorial spirit from the inspiration period, but with
contemporary colorways and details, resulting in an eclectic yet

T
modern style.”

he first floor opens up to an oval room lined

with black wood canes. In the middle of the
space is a brass and wood dining table, which can
accommodate up to 20 guests. Two Italianate
chandeliers from the 1950s complement the look.
A second sitting area consists of a cozy library where artworks,
vintage pieces, fashion books, and objects such as a small cabinet
of curiosities collected
The furniture over time by the pair
shape a sophisticated,
is all BESPOKE. yet personal aura. “We

It reflects and want all our guests to

walk in and feel as if they
enhances a were right at home,” the
Catens say. “We had this
NOSTALGIC thought very clear in

sartorial spirit our minds when we

first decided to start

137
Living ‫حياة‬
THE THREE GUESTROOMS
ARE DECORATED IN MUTED
TONES WITH ACCENTS OF
GOLD, BURGUNDY, AND BLACK
OPPOSITE THE ENTRACE
IS DOMINATED BY GRANDIOSE
CHANDELIERS AND VELVET
CURTAINS BY DEDAR
the Ceresio 7 guest house.” To the right, a
standalone central kitchen in Calacatta marble
and steel and paved in teal tiles leads to a
small nook where guests can sit on a leather
horseshoe-shaped bench, or in one of the two
fuchsia velvet chairs for a private breakfast.
Meanwhile, a large bay window connects the
dining area to the terrace, which is surrounded
by vegetation.
A gentle push through hidden doors in the
wood paneling and guests reach two private
rooms; each one featuring a staircase that
leads to a large dressing room organized with
black slats. “If you take a look at the pieces of
art and furniture, they all blend perfectly,”
the designers explain. “And this feeling is
even more accentuated by a play of mirrors,
lights, and reflections. Every detail in this
house has been carefully considered. We are
perfectionists in everything we do. It applies
to both our professional and personal life. It
is a state of mind.” ☐

Buon appetito Dean and Dan Caten share their favorite Milan restaurants

1 2 3
A SANTA LUCIA AL MATAREL DA GIACOMO
“It’s an old trattoria with pictures of all Although the cozy Al Matarel Trattoria Da Giacomo reflects
the movie stars. Frank Sinatra used is renowned for its authentic the relaxed, traditional setting
to go there,” say the brothers. Located menu, which includes Tallone di of Milanese restaurants from the early
in the heart of Milan, A Santa Lucia was Salame, cassoeula, and risotto alla 1900s. Green paneling complements
ADDITIONAL RESEARCH MADIHA SHEIKH

opened by Leone Legnani in 1929. It
offers signature Milanese dishes including
Neapolitan pizza and is a favorite among
bon vivants. Since its opening, the dining
areas have been maintained as they were
in the 1930s and make for an authentic
Italian experience. Asantalucia.it
Milanese, art fanatics will enjoy the
unique pieces and family photographs
on the walls. The traditional family-run
business is a particular favorite of Dan
Caten’s, who enjoys visiting because
“the mamma in the kitchen cooking all
day is so lovely.”
embossed wallpaper and patterned
graniglia floors. The restaurant offers
Tuscan food and is renowned for its
seafood delicacies, including scampi,
crab, and sea bass. “An amazing fish
restaurant that we go to often,” the
Catens share.

138
 The pieces of ART and
furniture all BLEND perfectly
Living ‫حياة‬
1 3 Totally

ELIE SAAB
TROPICAL
2 You don’t have to trek
to the Amazon for an
authentic forest experience

DOLCE & GABBANA

THE GREEN
9 PLANET, DUBAI
The four-story bio-
dome is home to
more than 3 000 plants
and animals, including
toucans, crocodile lizards,
sloths, and porcupines.
There’s also the world’s
largest indoor tree.
Thegreenplanetdubai.com

4
8
THE SPHERES,
SEATTLE These

5
three connected
spheres contain
around 40 000 plants.
The spheres, which have
Wi-Fi, are designed for
Amazon employees
7 as a place to unwind.
Seattlespheres.com

WELCOME
MOOD BOARD

to the jungle
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIGITAL, INSTAGRAM.COM/NAIJUNANDAN

JEWEL
CHANGI,
Get green fever with pieces that SINGAPORE
recall a lush tropical forest A new lifestyle project
at Singapore’s Changi
1 PARADISE WALLPAPER BY FREUNDIN HOME COLLECTION 2 STAR SUSPENSION LAMP airport will have an
BY UTU SOULFUL LIGHTING 3 PATRICIA GIUDICELLI SISTER SUCCULENTUS WALLPAPER indoor forest with hiking
AT MUES DESIGN 4 OLHAR O BRASIL PLATE BY VISTA ALEGRE 5 LEWIS SIDEBOARD AT
6
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DORDONI AT MINOTTI 9 HIDEOUT LOUNGE CHAIR BY FRONT

140

PASTICCERIA COVA’S
MILANESE FACADE HAS BEEN
RECREATED FOR THE NEW
BRANCH IN THE DUBAI MALL,
WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY ITS
FAMOUS DOLCE FRUTTO CAKE
Café Society
“As they would say in Milan: ‘It’s a match made
As Pasticceria
Cova opens
in heaven,’” enthuses Paola Faccioli, CEO of in Dubai, it
family business Pasticceria Cova. The café, which
is steeped in more than 200 years of history,
continues
recently opened its doors in the new Fashion its tradition
Avenue extension in The Dubai Mall – and the
Faccioli family couldn’t be happier.
of providing
“The Middle East has charmed us with its an elegant
energy, cultural legacy, grand architecture, and
exotic aromas, not to mention the hospitality,”
rendezvous
she adds. “Dubai is such an international city. point for the
This has allowed it to become a hub between
east and west. We are honored to have the chance
bourgeoisie
to offer our coffee and pastries to our guests in
Words
such a special location.”
Pasticceria Cova is somewhat of a renowned ALEXANDRIA GOUVEIA
institute. It was founded in 1817 by Antonio
Cova, a solider in Napoleon’s army. His café fast
became a meeting place for members of the social and political
movement Risorgimento.
However, it wasn’t until its move in 1950 to the Via
Montenapoleone, the heart of the Milanese fashion district, that
it became not only the most celebrated bakery in Milan, but the
world. The café has since expanded with branches opening in
Japan, China, Taiwan, Monte Carlo, and now the UAE.
“Cova’s tradition is timeless,” explains Faccioli, revealing it’s
sometimes difficult to find a balance that respects Cova’s rich
heritage while keeping up with modern demand. “Maintaining
the brand’s historic standards while carrying them forward has a
‫حياة‬Living
great significance for us. We are surrounded by change and new
challenges. These become the source of inspiration to finding that
perfect balance between innovation and tradition.”
Staying true to the aesthetic of the original café, Pasticceria
Cova in The Dubai Mall is decorated in near identical lavish
furnishings. Multiple grandiose chandeliers hang from the
ceiling, the chairs are upholstered in a deep blue velvet, and the
walls are lined with vintage images from the café’s past. In true
Italian café style, the daily newspapers are available on sticks to
read, and the staff uniforms are reminiscent of a bygone era – the
barista is suited in a fitted white jacket and bow tie. The ambience
is extremely sophisticated.
The jewels of Pasticceria Cova – its delicious pastries and
chocolates – are on display in an old-fashioned bancone in glossy
mahogany with brass finishing and are nigh impossible to resist. If
you are able to stray from the sweet treats, the café’s signature main
dishes are also on the menu. “I recommend the risotto Milanese
or the real veal cutlet Milanese,” suggests Faccioli. “We have also
developed custom-made plates to delight our guests in Dubai.
But, for me, the classic artisanal panettone is an absolute favorite,
as is the coffee – which is made with an exclusive blend of the
finest beans – and our unique Sachertorte.”
The venue is already bustling with tourists and locals alike, all
keen to get a real flavor of Pasticceria Cova. Get there early if you
wish to have the prime seats with views overlooking the fountains.
With Faccoli revealing the main aim is for guests to leave wanting
to come back for more, it’s clear it’s an ambition that will come
to fruition. As the café’s motto states, “It’s a meeting place for
yesterday, today, and tomorrow.” Covamilano.com ☐
141
HAPPY
Glampers
The simple camping
experience has had a
reinvention. No longer a
family adventure in the
wilderness or a tent in
a field during a festival,
glamping – glamorous
camping – is the new
luxe way to travel
Compiled by ALEXANDRIA GOUVEIA
 ‫حياة‬Living
AMAN-I-KHAS
Rajasthan, India
When it comes to providing luxury accommodation,
Aman Resorts never disappoints. Even this 10-tent
Mughal-style safari outpost feels majestic, and so it
should, located on the threshold of Ranthambore
National Park. The park is a former royal hunting
ground home to tigers, leopards, marsh crocodiles,
the imposing 10th century Ranthambore Fort, and
the Ganesh Mandir temple. The tents are surrounded
by a leafy wilderness and there’s a stately communal
pool to unwind by. With 6m high canopies, sunken
marble bathtubs, and custom-made teak furniture,
these are not your average tents. In fact, Katy Perry
and Russell Brand got married here. If you wish to
roam outside, guides are on hand to take you tracking
for wildlife. Otherwise, indulge at the on-site spa or
take advantage of the butler service. Prices on request.
Aman.com

WHITEPOD
Les Cerniers, Switzerland
While these wintry white pods look minimalistic
from the outside, they are far from basic inside,
with wood stoves, fluffy duvets on king-size beds,
cowhide rugs, and fur-covered chairs – it’s like
having your very own boutique alpine hotel to
yourself. The luxe eco-camp, compromising 15
space-age domes, is situated on the mountainside,
28km from Swiss ski resort Villars. Each pod suite
has its own design and special amenities (although
all have an iPad Pro with Netflix). The 007 Bond-
themed pod comes with a large terrace with the best
views of the alps. Prices on request. Whitepod.com

FOUR SEASONS antiques and metal craftwork by local

TENTED CAMP
Golden Triangle, Thailand
If it wasn’t for its tented walls and
canvas roof, it would be hard to believe
this opulent abode is “glamping.”
Located in the heart of the jungle in
northern Thailand, bordering Burma
and Laos, these 15 luxury tents
were conceived by interior designer
Bill Bensley. Each tent is decorated
with hand-picked explorer-themed
artisans. Opt for the deluxe styles that
include private outdoor whirlpools
overlooking the lush landscape. The
all-inclusive resort offers excursions
and activities, including private
sunrise breakfasts, helping to bathe
elephants, rainforest treks, mountain
trails, picnics, and cruising down the
Mekong River in a traditional long-
tail boat. After a busy day, unwind
in the treetop spa. Prices on request.
Fourseasons.com/goldentriangle

143
Living ‫حياة‬
TREEBONES RESORT
Big Sur, California
No road trip across California is complete
without a journey down the picturesque Big
Sur – a rugged stretch of coast bordered by
the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Pacific
Ocean. Nestled in the foothills of South
Big Sur and overlooking the Pacific lies
this unique resort. While its 16 signature
Mongolian-inspired yurts are glamorous
enough, take your experience up a notch
with the autonomous tent. The 46 sqm
giant cocoon has its own private deck and
outdoor fire pit. Inside there’s a king-size
bed complete with luxurious cotton linens,
a gas fireplace, and leather lounging chairs,
as well as a private shower. Perched on the
edge of the cliff, it’s the most stunning
off-grid spot on the resort. From US $320.
Treebonesresort.com

JOY’S CAMP
Shaba, Kenya
This off-the-beaten-track home away from home
in Shaba will bring you as close to Africa’s wildlife
as possible. The elegant camp is built on the site of
renowned conservationist and author of Born Free, Joy
Adamson’s tented home in Shaba National Reserve.
Offering a truly complete luxe experience, each tent
comes with an en suite bathroom with stone floors,
flush toilets, and a hot water shower. Each also has
its own peaceful veranda from which to imbibe the
serene surroundings. While game drives are the most
popular activities on site, you can also treat yourself
to a massage or mani/pedi and take a dip in the
communal pool, with its views of the spring. It offers
a true back-to-basics adventure feel without having
to forgo any lavish desires. From US $270 per person.
Elewanacollection.com

144
SANDAT
Ubud, Bali
While the decor may be deliberately rustic,
Sandat has the elegance and efficiency of a
hotel rather than a campsite. Conveniently
located close enough to Ubud, Bali’s
cultural heart, the site, wrapped in a jungle-
style garden, also feels remote enough to
be a hidden paradise. Even though there
is an emphasis on being environmentally
sensitive, the deluxe side of camping is also
a priority, with each tent having its own
plunge pool, iPod docking stations, large,
comfortable beds, a range of locally made
toiletries, and coffee-making facilities.
Those wanting to explore further afield
can jump on the free shuttle bus to Ubud.
While there is no on-site masseuse, it can
be arranged for you – it is glamping, after
all. Prices on request. Glampingsandat.com
 STARSTRUCK WHEN OUT OF THIS
OUTER SPACE BECOMES WORLD KNOWN FOR ITS
A PLAYING FIELD FOR BEAUTIFULLY ETHEREAL
DESIGNERS, JEWELRY GOES AESTHETIC, PAOLO
STRATOSPHERIC. CRYSTAL ROVERSI’S IMAGES ARE
ENCRUSTED EARRINGS, SHOWCASED IN A NEW
ALEXIS BITTAR AT SHOPBOP COFFEE TABLE TOME IN
COLLABORATION WITH
DIOR. IMAGES: PAOLO
ROVERSI (RIZZOLI)

NEW
Age Contemplate
the future
with forward-
thinking
design, cosmic
referencing,
and fashion’s
otherworldly
creations

THE FINAL FRONTIER

MAKING OUTER SPACE
SEEM ACCESSIBLE TO ALL,
YAYOI KUSAMA’S RECENT
EXHIBITION, “INFINITY
MIRRORED ROOM – THE SOULS
OF MILLIONS OF LIGHT YEARS
AWAY,” FEATURED A MIRROR-
LINED CHAMBER HOUSING A
DAZZLING LED LIGHT DISPLAY

IS IT A BAG? PROVING THAT

SIMPLE TYPOGRAPHY CAN
CHALLENGE PERCEPTION,
VIRGIL ABLOH’S “SCULPTURE”
EMBLAZONED TOTE SHOULD FUTURE VISION
PLEASE THE INSTA CROWD CLEAN LINES THE MATRIX
IN STEEL WIRE TRINITY’S HIGH
AND ACETATE SHINE CATSUIT ISN’T
CHARACTERIZE THE FOR EVERYONE – BUT
EDDY FRAME BY YOU CAN STILL TAP
GLASSING THE VINYL TREND
WITH ISA ARFEN’S
BURGUNDY MAC

146
 ‫دﻟﻴﻞ‬Index
BOOM LIGHTYEAR TOM
DIXON’S BOOM LAMPS COULD
BE CHARACTERS IN A PIXAR
MOVIE – ADD ONE TO YOUR PACE BLURRING THE LINES
LIVING SPACE AND LET YOUR COSMIC CRUSH HEADS BETW
IMAGINATION RUN WILD CONTINUING TO CARVE EEN A
RT A
OUT NEW DESIGNS FROM N D FA
ACRYLICS, L’AFSHAR’S SH
SIGNATURE NEW LEON BAG

ION
IN CRUSHED ICE IS OUR

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YAL
CURRENT FAVORITE

C
OLL E
GE OF
ART GR
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GARETH PUGH
PROPOSED A VISION
OF STYLE’S FUTURE
FOR SS18. WHAT WILL
WE BE WEARING?
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TAC
AR S UL
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CU
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LPT
MUSIC MADE BETTER WITH ISTL BR
URA
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BEOSOUND 2 BRASS TONE A C E EC E S
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AND AD
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AROUND KNOLL’S
SWIVEL CHAIRS
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DRIES VAN NOTEN

PHOTOGRAPHS INDIGITAL COMPILED BY CLAIRE CARRUTHERS

THE FUTURE IS
BRIGHT ZAHA HADID’S
HEYDAR ALIYEV CENTER
IN BAKU, AZERBAIJAN,
REJECTS THE NATION’S
RIGID ARCHITECTURAL
SIGNATURES IN FAVOR OF
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FORMATIONS, FOLDS, PACIOTTI BY MIDNIGHT PAIR THESE KITTEN-HEEL MULES – A FUTURISTIC
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 VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

THE ROYAL

At the Maxx Royal

Kemer Resort,
there’s so much
more than a holiday
on offer – there’s a
whole new luxury
lifestyle to explore

TREATMENT
 MAXX ROYAL KEMER
RESORT IN ANTALYA,
TURKEY, OFFERS
AZURE VIEWS AND
CONSIDERED DESIGN

w ant that home-away-from-home feeling on

vacation, but with an added luxe touch?
Check into the award-wining Maxx Royal
Kemer Resort in Antalya, Turkey.
Your unique journey to the resort begins with a
complimentary hotel transfer – for villa guests staying for
seven or more nights that service includes a chauffeured
helicopter ride to the hotel. On arrival, the A-list treatment
continues, with a warm welcome from the multilingual staff,
a cold drink, strawberries, and Turkish delight at check-in.
From there it’s up to you to design your adventure, though
there is a Maxx Assistant on hand to help you personalize your
holiday if you get stuck with the vast options.
While nestled in its own serene space, Maxx Royal Kemer
Resort is conveniently located 6km from the center of
Kemer. The design of the nature-conscious resort reflects its
surrounding natural beauty – it sits along a vast beach front,
and is cradled by a mountain face, whose
friendly goats can often be spotted roaming
the manicured gardens of the resort. to the à la carte choices and the Bronze Steak
With its 291 rooms – including the House and Emerald Restaurant are also loved
bespoke Royal Residence blocks, Laguna by guests. In need of a sweet treat? Pop into the
suites, and beach villas – privacy is easily patisserie, chocolatier, or ice cream shop. For
found, even for families, who can make the sundowners, head to the Beach Club. If a beach
most of the children’s club. party isn’t your vibe, head to the silence beach
Maxx Royal Kemer Resort has a 24-hour for a more peaceful and relaxed ambience.
“Maxx Inclusive” concept, which means Before leaving, unwind at the on-site
you don’t have to keep reaching for your Aven Royal Spa, which offers indulgences
wallet. Food and drink are included, and from Ayurvedic treatments to plant-based
the offerings are plentiful. The fine dining massages, as well as local therapies and healing
à la carte restaurant The Azure offers an oil massages. You can choose to have your
enticing spin on world cuisine, while at treatment in your room, in the VIP spa areas,
Azure Court, you can enjoy tantalizing or on private pavilions on the jetty. The choice
meals from Azure Turk, Azure Italia, or is yours – after all, at Maxx Royal Kemer Resort,
Azure Fish. The restaurants are not limited everyone is treated like a king and queen.

149
Last look‫اإلطاللة األخيرة‬

‫تحاول النساء دوماً تمالك‬

‫أنفسهن والظهور بمظهر هادئ‬
‫مع التق ّدم في ال ُعمر؛ ولكن أجمل‬
‫النساء هن غالباً َمن يتم ّتعن‬
‫بطبيعة جامحة إلى ح ٍّد ما‬
‫ميوتشا برادا‬

PHOTOGRAPHY GRAHAM TOOBY STYLE CLAIRE CARRUTHERS SET DESIGN LAUREN HASLAM

Women always try to

TAME themselves as they
get older; but the ones
who look best are often a
bit WILDER
MIUCCIA PRADA
COMIC BOOK BAG, PRADA

150
 FULL PROGRAMME ONLINE
AT CNILUXURY.COM
Guest speakers include:
H.E. António Costa
Prime Minister of the Portuguese Republic
Alexandre Arnault
Co-CEO, RIMOWA
Christian Louboutin
Maria Grazia Chiuri
Artistic Director, Christian Dior
Federico Marchetti
Founder, YOOX; Chief Executive Officer,
YOOX NET-A-PORTER Group
Claus-Dietrich Lahrs
Chief Executive Officer, Bottega Veneta
Giambattista Valli
Mark Shapiro
Co-President, WME IMG
Philipp Plein
Hilary Swank
Founder, Mission Statement
Paula Amorim
Owner and Chairman, Amorim Luxury Group
Michele Norsa
Member of the Board of Directors, Ermenegildo
s
ke
en
M

Zegna; Vice Chairman, Biagiotti Group

zy
Su

Adrian Cheung
Founder, K11
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida
i
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Founders, Marques’Almeida
ult
Ch

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zia

Ar
ra

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Johnny Coca
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Ale
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Creative Director, Mulberry

Alexandre Birman
Chief Executive Officer, Arezzo & Co.
n
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Carlos Jereissati
st
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He
an
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Sw

la
tia

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Chief Executive Officer, Iguatemi

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Ch

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Hervé Pierre
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Creative Director, Lacoste
ng
eu

Ara Vartanian
o
pir
Ch

ha
a
lic

kS
ge

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An

Sabine Getty
Gabriela Hearst
Simone Rocha
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Vania Leles
ch
ar
M
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ric

Founder, VanLeles Diamonds

de
Fe

Uché Pézard
18-19 APRIL 2018, PÁTIO DA GALÉ, LISBON, PORTUGAL Chief Executive Officer, Luxe Corp.
Simona Cattaneo
THE PREMIER EVENT FOR LUXURY BUSINESS AND CREATIVE LEADERS Chief Marketing Officer, Coty Luxury

Hosted and curated by Suzy Menkes, International Vogue Editor, the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference Marisa Berenson
Founder and President, Marisa Berenson Cosmetics
is the leading event for decision makers from the fashion and luxury industry.
Alfredo Orobio
500 attendees from over 30 countries will gather in Lisbon for two days of learning, networking and discovery. Founder, AWAYTOMARS
Sophie Hackford
SECURE YOUR PLACE NOW AT CNILUXURY.COM Futurist
Stefan Siegel
Founder and CEO, Not Just A Label
Sofia Lucas
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH CAR SPONSOR DRINKS SPONSOR
Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Portugal
Manuel Arnaut
Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Arabia
Eugenia de la Torriente
Editor-in-Chief, Vogue España
Karla Martinez de Salas
EVENT SPONSORS Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Mexico/Latin America
Angelica Cheung
Editor-in-Chief, Vogue China

@CNILuxury @SuzyMenkesVogue
 ‫من اليسار في اتجاه عقارب الساعة‬
‫لمحة من غرفة النوم حيث مصباح‬
‫طاولة المكتب من ‪ EQUILIBRIST‬من‬
‫‪ ARTEMIDE‬والكرسي من ‪.MAGIX‬‬
‫لمسة عربية في الحمام من خالل مرآة‬
‫مغربية وصور من مصر في القرن التاسع‬
‫عشر‪ .‬المدخل‪ ،‬حيث تعرض مجموعة‬
‫فنية من حول العالم وتركيبات اإلضاءة‬
‫من ‪ .BUZZI & BUZZI‬تمثال خشبي من‬
‫أندونيسيا يستخدم كقطعة تعلّق عليها‬
‫المجوهرات‪ .‬تفاصيل في المطبخ‪ :‬خريطة‬
‫دبي وقطع من السيراميك والزجاج من‬
‫أفغانستان والصين‪ .‬في غرفة الطعام‪،‬‬
‫طاولة طويلة من ‪ ATELIER ALINEA‬وثريا‬
‫«فينتاج» من ‪STILNOVO‬‬
 ‫‪Living‬حياة‬
‫أندريا سانسولي وسيسيليا‬
‫موريسي في الحديقة‪،‬‬
‫مجموعة األثاث الخارجي‬
‫‪ M’AFRIQUE‬من ‪MOROSO‬‬
‫األزياء كلّها من ‪POSE‬‬
‫‪ ARAZZI‬لدى ‪THE CARTEL‬‬
‫أسفل طاولة برونزية من‬
‫‪O’DE ROSE‬‬

‫العالمــة السويســرية أتلييــه ألينيــا‪ ،‬وتحيــط بهــا مقاعــد مــن عالمــة إيمــز‪.‬‬
‫أمــا أرفــف الكتــب المدمجــة فــي الحائــط‪ ،‬فتحمــل مجموعــة مــن زجاجــات‬
‫الميــاه المعدنيــة –بمختلــف األلــوان‪ ،‬واألشــكال‪ ،‬واألحجــام– وهــي القطعــة‬
‫المفضلــة للثنائــي فــي هــذا المنــزل‪ .‬وعنهــا تقــول موريســي‪« :‬إنهــا تحفتنــا‬
‫أردت أن أدمجهــا فــي المنــزل‪ ،‬لذلــك‬ ‫الفنيــة الخاصــة»‪ ،‬وتضيــف‪« :‬وقــد ُ‬
‫وفــرت لهــا مكان ـاً خاص ـاً إلبرازهــا»‪ .‬وتنعكــس األنمــاط القبليــة والمؤثــرات‬
‫الغريبــة فــي كل ركــن مــن أركان المنــزل‪ ،‬مثــل الســجادة المخططــة فــي‬
‫غرفة الطعام‪.‬‬
‫ُ‬
‫الطريقــة التــي نتبعهــا فــي ديكــور منزلنــا‬ ‫«تجســد‬
‫ّ‬ ‫تقــول موريســي‪:‬‬
‫مفهــومَ روح المــكان»‪ ،‬وتضيــف‪« :‬نبحــث دومــاً عــن التناغــم والتناســق‬
‫بيــن التصميــم والمضمــون‪ ،‬فهــذان العامــالن يؤثــران علــى بعضهمــا‬
‫البعــض»‪ .‬وفــي ســعيها نحــو تحفيــز‬
‫روحهــا اإلبداعيــة‪ ،‬تراقــب موريســي‬
‫المشــه َد الفنــي وعالــمَ الموضــة‬
‫وتقــوم بتحليلهمــا‪ .‬تقــول‪« :‬بوصفــي‬
‫مهندســة معماريــة‪ُ ،‬تشـ ِّـكل الموضــة‬
‫مصــدراً هامـاً لإللهــام ألن هــذا المجــال‬
‫أســرع مــن مجــال عملــي فيمــا يتعلــق‬
‫بتجســيد التغيّــرات الثقافيــة»‪.‬‬
‫يعكــس الديكــور الداخلــي أيضــاً‬
‫أســلوب موريســي الشــخصي‪ ،‬وهــي‬
‫«حــس‬
‫ّ‬ ‫تعشــق علــى وجــه التحديــد‬
‫المزج بين التراث‬ ‫البســاطة غيــر المتكلّفــة» لمجموعــات‬
‫عالمــة ســيلين‪« .‬أحــبُّ المصمــم أو‬
‫والجرأة يتسق تماماً مع‬ ‫العالمــة التــي تقــدِّم األزيــاء للنســاء‬
‫بلمســة ذكوريــة»‪ ،‬تقــول مضيفــ ًة‬
‫عادتنا في اإلقامة في أماكن‬ ‫تفضــل البنطلــون علــى التنــورة‪.‬‬ ‫إنهــا ِّ‬
‫بعالمتــي لوميــر‬
‫ّ‬ ‫وهــي معجبــة‬
‫تحمل عبق التاريخ‬ ‫ولويڤــي علــى وجــه التحديــد‪ ،‬وتعجبهــا‬
‫الطريقــة التــي تمــزج بهــا عالمــة‬
‫دريــس ڤــان نوتــن األلــوان والطبعــات‬
‫الخاصــة‪ .‬تقــول راســم ًة ابتســام ًة فــوق ثغرهــا‪« :‬منــذ‬ ‫واألقمشــة للحصــول علــى نتائــج‬
‫انتقالنــا إلــى دبــي‪ ،‬أصبحــت األزيــاء التــي أرتديهــا أكثــر ثــرا ًء‬ ‫عصريــة وأنيقــة‪ ،‬إلَّا أنهــا تعتبــر ذوقهــا‬
‫باأللــوان»‪ .‬وســواء فــي المنــزل أم فــي العمــل‪ ،‬يعتنــق الثنائــي فلســفة‬ ‫فــي اإلكسســوارات أكثــر غراب ـ ًة‪ ،‬إذ تقــول إنَّ العالمــات التــي تفضلهــا فــي‬
‫ِّ‬
‫مختبرهمــا اإلبداعــي‪« .‬ننظــر إلــى التصميــم علــى نحــو عــام‪ ،‬لــذا نظريــاً‬ ‫هــذا المجــال هــي بــاوال مينــدوزا‪ ،‬ومونيــز‪ ،‬وآنــي كوســتيلو بــراون‪ ،‬وكذلــك‬
‫كل مظهـ ٍـر فــي العالــم الــذي نعيــش فيــه‪’ ،‬مــن الملعقــة‬ ‫نرغــب فــي تعديــل ِّ‬ ‫عالمــة بالعربــي‪.‬‬
‫إلــى المدينــة‘‪ ،‬كمــا كانــوا يقولــون فــي مدرســة باوهــاوس الفنيــة‪ .‬ونحــن‬ ‫كل مــن منزلهــا‬ ‫مــع تركيزهــا علــى األناقــة ذات الطابــع العصــري فــي ٍّ‬
‫ننظــر إلــى التصميــم بوصفــه أحــد أوجــه التعبيــر الثقافــي‪ ،‬تمامــاً مثــل‬ ‫وأزيائهــا‪ُ ،‬تبقــي المهندسـ ُـة المعماريــة عينيهــا مفتوحتيــن لتفهــم َّ‬
‫كل مــا‬
‫الطعام واللغة»‪☐.‬‬ ‫ـكل أفضــل‪ ،‬بحيــث يمكنهــا تأويــل ذلــك بصري ـاً بطريقتهــا‬ ‫يحيــط بهــا بشـ ٍ‬

‫‪80‬‬
‫وڤالنتينــا‪ ،‬وفيــدورا) الراحــ َة واالســترخاء‪ .‬أمــا الردهــة‪ ،‬وغرفــة الطعــام‪،‬‬
‫وغرفــة الجلــوس فقــد ربطــا بينهــا جميعـاً إلضفــاء شــعور برحابــة المــكان‪.‬‬
‫وعنــه تقــول‪« :‬أكثــر مــا أح ّبــه فــي منزلــي هــو إحســاس الســكينة الــذي‬
‫ينبعــث فــي أرجائــه‪ ،‬وكيــف تتدفــق اإلضــاءة عبــر المــكان‪ ،‬وعالقتــي الجميلــة‬
‫بالحديقــة»‪ .‬وداخــل المنــزل‪ ،‬يتناغــم اللــون األبيــض العاجــي مــع مظهــره‬
‫الخارجــي‪ .‬وتشــرح موريســي‪« :‬بالعــودة إلــى مفهــوم الكتلــة الحجريــة‪،‬‬
‫قررنــا أن نضــع لونـاً واحــداً فــي كل مــكان – كمــا لــو كان المنــزل ُنحِ ــت فــي‬
‫أفضــل اللونيــن األبيــض واألســود‪ .‬وأختــار األســود ألزيائــي‬ ‫الصخــر‪ .‬وأنــا ّ‬
‫واألبيــض ألماكــن المعيشــة‪ ،‬ألنهمــا يجســدان األناقــة فــي أي مــكان‬
‫حيــادي األلــوان»‪.‬‬
‫ً‬
‫يشــبه منــزل هــذا الثنائــي قصيــدة شــعرية تعكــس نمــط حياتهمــا‬
‫العفــوي‪ .‬وهمــا يحبــان أن يشــعرا بالراحــة واالســترخاء أثنــاء تناولهمــا‬
‫اإلفطــار‪ ،‬أو االســتمتاع بمشــهد الغــروب‪ ،‬أو إعــداد العشــاء لألصدقــاء بعــد‬
‫نزهــة علــى الشــاطئ‪ ،‬وأحيان ـاً أثنــاء عملهمــا فــي المنــزل بعيــداً عــن صخــب‬
‫المدينــة‪ .‬ومعظــم قطــع األثــاث واإلكسســوارات جلبهــا الثنائــي مــن البــالد‬
‫التــي أقامــا فيهــا‪ ،‬بمــا فــي ذلــك خزانــة مطليــة باللــون األحمــر‪ ،‬وصناديــق‬
‫جلديــة‪ ،‬وخزانــة أدويــة عتيقــة اشــترياها مــن‬
‫الصيــن‪ .‬كمــا جمعــا بعــض القطــع مــن المنطقــة‪،‬‬
‫منهــا بــاب قديــم مــن عُمــان‪ ،‬وفــراش مــن‬
‫باكســتان‪ ،‬وفانــوس مــن المغــرب‪ .‬وتقــول‬
‫موريســي‪« :‬أنتقــي كل قطعــة مــن األثــاث‬
‫ونفضــل اســتخدام مــواد قليلــة توفــر‬ ‫بنفســي‪ّ .‬‬
‫خلفيــة ناعمــة‪ ،‬وتجعــل التركيــز ينصــبّ علــى‬
‫أدوات معيشتنا»‪.‬‬
‫وفــي الغرفــة المواجهــة للردهــة‪ ،‬تمتــزج‬
‫المكتبــة النحاســية مــن عالمــة تشــيكوتي‬
‫كوليتســيوني مــع وحــدة اإلضــاءة الناعمــة‬
‫مــن تصميــم «ســوبر فيوتشــر ديزايــن» علــى‬
‫شــكل دوامــة لعالمــة بوتســي بوتســي أطلــق‬
‫عليهــا اســم «بــاز»‪ .‬وتتدلّــى فــي غرفــة الطعــام‬
‫ثريــا مــن عالمــة ســتيلنوڤو تعــود إلــى منتصــف‬
‫القــرن الماضــي فــوق طاولــة مــن األلومنيــوم من‬
‫‪79‬‬
‫المهندسان المقيمان في دبي والشريكان‬
‫في الحياة والعمل‪ ،‬سيسيليا موريسي وأندريا‬
‫سينسولي‪ ،‬يز ّينان منزلهما بالقطع الغريبة التي‬
‫تعكس نمط حياتهما العصري‬
‫تصوير ‪ MAHA EDDÉ‬تنسيق ‪ MOHAMMAD HAZEM REZQ‬بقلم ‪KARINE MONIÉ‬‬
‫ال يخشــى المهندســان المعماريــان‪ ،‬سيســيليا موريســي وأندريــا‬
‫أسســا المختبــر اإلبداعــي «ســوبر فيوتشــر‬ ‫سينســولي –اللــذان َّ‬
‫ديزايــن» مــع شــريكيهما إياكوبــو مانيللــي وأندريــا ريتــوري– التغيي ـرَ‪ .‬بــل‬
‫علــى العكــس‪ ،‬يبرهــن نمــط حياتهمــا علــى شــغفهما بمواجهــة التحديــات‬
‫الجديــدة‪ .‬ومنــذ ســنة ‪ ،2015‬يتخــذ الثنائــي اإليطالــي مــن دبــي وطنـاً ثانيـاً لهمــا‪.‬‬
‫وتتحــدث موريســي عــن منزلهمــا فــي دبــي قائل ـ ًة‪« :‬عثرنــا عليــه بالصدفــة‪،‬‬
‫وبصراحــة‪ ،‬كان األمــر ســه ًال»‪ .‬وقــد جذبهمــا علــى‬
‫كرسي من ‪MOROSO‬‬
‫الفــور هــذا المنــزل الكائــن بمنطقــة أم ســقيم ‪2‬‬
‫في ركن المدخل‬ ‫الســكنية‪ ،‬بطابعــه المحلــي األصيــل والعصــري فــي‬
‫آن واحــد‪ .‬وتضيــف‪« :‬المــزج بيــن التــراث والجــرأة‬
‫يتســق تمام ـاً مــع عادتنــا فــي اإلقامــة فــي أماكــن‬
‫تحمــل عبــق التاريــخ»‪.‬‬
‫يتميّــز هــذا المنــزل ذو الطابــق الواحــد والــذي‬
‫ُشــيِّد فــي الثمانينيــات بواجهتــه عربيــة الطــراز‬
‫التــي ال تخلــو مــن لمســات فــن اآلرت ديكــو‪.‬‬
‫وتعلّــق موريســي علــى تصميمــه قائلــ ًة‪« :‬يتســم‬
‫هــذا المنــزل بجماليــات فريــدة‪ ،‬فهــو يشــبه الكتلــة‬
‫الحجريــة – أو الهيــكل الضخــم الــذي «تــم نحتــه»‬
‫لغــرض مــا»‪ .‬وقــد حـوّال الطابــق الــذي كان يحتــوي‬
‫فــي األصــل علــى ثــالث غــرف للنــوم إلــى غرفــة‬
‫واحــدة رئيســية ومــكان متســع للجلــوس يتيــح‬
‫لهــذا الثنائــي وقططهمــا الثــالث (ستانيســالس‪،‬‬
 ‫‪Living‬حياة‬
‫مدخل الشرفة يضمّ‬
‫مقعداً من ‪MOROSO‬‬
‫وثريا برونزية مغربية‬

‫األزياء كلّها من ‪DION‬‬

‫‪ LEE‬لدى ‪THE CARTEL‬‬
 FARIDA KHELFA 7 BRYAN INGRAM, ANGELA LINDVALL 6
JESSICA 10 MANUEL ARNAUT 9 JASMINE SANDERS 8
SAMAR SERAQUI DE BUTTAFOCO 11 KAHAWATY, KENZA FOURATI
ABEER AL OTAIBA 14 INGIE CHALHOUB 13 NADINE LEOPOLD 12

77
 ‫‪Living‬حياة‬

‫ما يستدعي‬
‫االحتفال‬
‫دعت ڤوغ العربية وأكوازورا إلى حفلة عشاء‪،‬‬
‫أُقيمت في أوتيل ديفرو الواقع في ساحة فاندوم‬
‫في باريس‪ ،‬لمناسبة الذكرى السنوية األولى‬
‫بتوسعها‬‫النطالق المجلة‪ .‬كما احتفلت أكوازورا ّ‬
‫في الشرق األوسط عبر إطالق متجرين ّ‬
‫خاصين‬
‫بالعالمة‪ .‬والتزم الحضور بأزياء من وحي ّ‬
‫توهج‬
‫السبعينيات كما ح ّددت الدعوة التي ل ّبتها العارضات‬
‫ديفون وندسور وسيندي برونا وماريا بورغيس‬
‫وأنجيال ليندفال‪ .‬كما احتفلت بڤوغ العربية نجمات‬
‫أغلفتها هناء بن عبد السالم وكنزة فراتي وفريدة‬
‫خلفة‪ ،‬إلى جانب ّ‬
‫مصممي األزياء زهير مراد‬
‫وجورج حبيقة ومحمد آشي وعبير العتيبة‪ .‬وغادر‬
‫المدعوون حاملين هدايا تذكارية من ‪.L’Objet‬‬
‫‪MARIA BORGES, CINDY 1‬‬
‫‪ZUHAIR MURAD, 2 BRUNA‬‬
‫‪ELLEN VON UNWERTH‬‬
‫‪DEVON WINDSOR 3‬‬
‫‪GEORGIA FOWLER 4‬‬
‫‪JASMINE SANDERS, 5‬‬
‫‪MARIA BORGES, GEORGIA‬‬
‫‪FOWLER, NADINE LEOPOLD,‬‬
‫‪EDGARDO OSORIO, DEVON‬‬
‫‪WINDSOR, CINDY BRUNA‬‬
‫حياة ‪Living‬‬

‫في اتجاه عقارب الساعة من أعلى‬

‫اليسار البيت ذو الشرفة المطلّة على‬
‫محيطها في شمال لبنان‪« .‬تراس»‬
‫فندق الهيلتون الذي تعاونت المهندسة‬
‫في تصميمه مع كلود مونتفور وريشار‬
‫بيدوزي‪ .‬هالة يونس في البيت الذي‬
‫يدل على جمال‬ ‫صمّ مت عمارته‪ .‬مم ّر ّ‬
‫انسجام العمارة مع محيطها‬

‫فستان من ‪JW ANDERSON‬‬

‫وحذاء من ‪CÉLINE‬‬
 ‫طبيعيــة أو أرضـاً زراعيــة بــد ًال مــن أن تكــون أرضـاً لــم نســتطع أن نبنــي عليها‪.‬‬
‫يجــب أن نضــع التصّ ــور منــذ اآلن كــي تكــون مدينــة الغــد جميلــة وكــي نضــع‬
‫نمــط عيــش متكام ـ ًال وجديــداً ســيكون نمــط الغــد»‪.‬‬
‫أطلعتنــا المهندســة المعماريــة علــى أن الســعودية تشــارك للمــرة‬
‫األولــى فــي بينالــي البندقيــة وأنهــا اطلعــت علــى مشــاركات البحريــن‬
‫واإلمــارات ومصــر‪« .‬لقــد ُطرحــت آراء مهمــة وناقــدة تتعلّــق بإشــكالية تطـوّر‬
‫المــدن فــي هــذه البلــدان‪ .‬الجيــل الجديــد يعــي تمام ـاً التحديــات‪ .‬هــذا الوعــي‬
‫دفــع إلــى إعــادة النظــر فــي طــرق العمــران فــي البلــدان التــي تشــهد تطــوراً‬
‫معماريـاً ســريعاً‪ .‬هــذا األمــر جميــل ويفتــح نافــذة األمــل علــى المســتقبل‪،‬‬
‫فمــا بُنــي قــد بُنــي‪ ،‬المهــم أن ثمــة جيـ ًال شــاباً مــن المعمارييــن حريــص علــى‬
‫التق ـدّم فــي االتجــاه الصحيــح الــذي يخــدم اإلنســان والبيئــة‪ .‬ومــا يشــجع‬
‫المعماري النجم‬
‫علــى األمــل هــو أنّ هــذه الطاقــات وهــؤالء المهندســين الشــباب يتل ّقــون‬
‫دعمــاً مــن المؤسســات الرســمية فــي بالدهــم ليطرحــوا هــذه األفــكار‬
‫واإلشــكاليات ويعيــدوا النظــر فــي طريقــة تطويــر مدنهــم فــي األعــوام‬
‫العشــرين األخيــرة»‪.‬‬
‫تــرى المهندســة يونــس أن البعــد االجتماعــي السياســي لمهنــة‬
‫المهنــدس المعمــاري فــي المراحــل الزمنيــة األخيــرة تقلّــص علــى حســاب‬
‫ســعيه إلــى النجوميــة‪ ،‬لكــن «نظــام المعمــاري النجــم بــدأ بالتراجــع‪ .‬ويُطــرح‬
‫فــي هــذه الــدورة مــن البينالــي ســؤال عــن دور المهنــدس المعمــاري‬
‫تنســيق ‪ JEFF AOUN‬تصفيف الشــعر ‪ WISSAM‬لدى ‪ KÜLOR BEIRUT‬مكياج ‪SILVY IKNADOSSIAN‬‬
‫فــي المجتمــع؟ الــدور التقليــدي هــو خدمــة المجتمــع‪ ،‬وهــو يتطــوّر عالميــاً‬
‫فــي االتجــاه الــذي نعرضــه فــي الجنــاح اللبنانــي‪ ،‬وهــو أن المعمــاري ليــس‬
‫مســؤو ًال عمــا يبنيــه فحســب بــل عــن المســاحات غيــر المبنيــة حولهــا‪،‬‬
‫عــن كل المحيــط‪ .‬هنــا تتطــوّر مهنتنــا وتتوســع صالحياتنــا لتشــمل كل‬
‫المجــاالت التــي تحتــاج إلــى تصميــم‪ ،‬فنشــرف علــى الطرقــات التــي يصمّ مهــا‬
‫وينفذهــا المهنــدس المدنــي‪ ،‬وأيضــاً علــى تصميــم البنــى التحتيــة‪ .‬كل‬
‫اختصاصــي يــرى المشــهد مــن منظــاره الضيــق‪ ،‬لكــن المهنــدس المعمــاري‬
‫يمكــن أن يــرى المشــهد الشــامل‪ ،‬هــو تــدرب علــى ذلــك خــالل دراســته‬
‫مهتمــاً باألمــان والســالمة ونوعيــة البنــاء لكــن أيضــاً نوعيــة االســتعمال‪،‬‬
‫كيــف يمكــن للمــكان أن يتطــوّر فــي المســتقبل وأن يكــون اآلخــرون‬
‫جزءاً منه»‪☐ .‬‬
‫منســقتا‬
‫تــدور حــول المجــاالت المتاحــة ‪ .FreeSpace‬هــذه الفكــرة وضعتهــا ّ‬
‫البينالــي‪ ،‬إيفــون فاريــل وشــيلي مكنامــارا (غرافتــون اركيتكتــس)‪ ،‬وهــي‬
‫تركــز علــى قــدرة المعمارييــن علــى خلــق مجــاالت متاحــة عندمــا يســعون‬ ‫ّ‬
‫إلــى تشــييد بنــاء مــا‪ .‬هــم يبنونــه للزبــون لكــن أيض ـاً للنــاس الذيــن ســيرونه‬
‫يحــس المــارة أمــام بيــت أو مقهــى أنهــم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وسيســتفيدون منــه‪ .‬يجــب أن‬
‫غيــر غربــاء عــن المســاحة الخارجيــة للبنــاء‪ ،‬وأنّ‬
‫وجودهــم مرحّ ــب بــه‪ .‬هــذه الفكــرة تعكــس‬
‫ظاهرة‬ ‫قــدرة المعمــاري أو المعماريــة علــى بنــاء عمــارة‬
‫“كريمــة” تخــدم مــن دفــع ثمنهــا‪ ،‬لكنهــا تخــدم‬
‫أيض ـاً مــن ليــس لــه عالقــة مباشــرة بهــا»‪.‬‬
‫يطــرح الجنــاح اللبنانــي الرســمي الــذي‬
‫بدأت بالتراجع‬ ‫يشــارك للمــرة األولــى فــي البينالــي تحــت عنــوان‬
‫«مــا تب ّقــى» مصيــر األراضــي الح ـرّة ودورهــا فــي‬
‫على حساب الدور‬ ‫تحديــث االمتــداد العمرانــي وتطويــره‪« .‬فــي لبنــان‬
‫المجــاالت المتاحــة هــي المجــاالت غير المبنيــة‪ ،‬ألن‬
‫التقليدي الذي‬ ‫كل مــا يبنــى يصبــح غيــر عــام وغيــر متــاح‪ .‬كمــا‬
‫أنّ الكثافــة الســكانية مرتفعــة والمســاحات غيــر‬
‫يقوم على خدمة‬ ‫المبنيــة قليلــة‪ ،‬لــذا فــإن قيمتهــا الماديــة والمعنويــة‬
‫المجتمع‬ ‫مهمــة والمحافظــة عليهــا اســتراتيجية ألجــل‬
‫المســتقبل‪ .‬يجــب أن نفكــر مليـاً فــي مصيــر هــذه‬
‫األراضــي ومســتقبلها وشــكل المحافظــة عليهــا‪،‬‬
‫وعلــى األقســام المهمــة فيهــا‪ ،‬إن كانــت مجــاالت‬
‫عامــة أو خاصــة‪ ،‬فــي قلــب الطبيعــة أو فــي المدينــة‪ .‬يمكــن أن نعيــد صياغــة‬
‫المعادلــة العامــة كــي نجعلهــا تخــدم مدينــة المســتقبل‪ .‬هكــذا تتطـوّر المــدن‬
‫اآلن‪ ،‬لــم تعــد المدينــة مغلقــة وضيقــة‪ .‬أصبحــت المدينــة المرك ـ َز مــع الجبــال‬
‫المحيطــة بهــا أيض ـاً والشــواطئ التــي تز ّنرهــا‪ .‬أصبحــت أقســام كبيــرة مــن‬
‫المحيــط الطبيعــي لمدينــة كبيــرة متشــعّ بة أو منتشــرة ‪ Diffused‬مثــل‬
‫بيــروت جــزءاً منهــا‪ .‬نــرى االمتــداد العمرانــي علــى الســفوح لكــن الوديــان‬
‫خاليــة لصعوبــة البنــاء فيهــا‪ .‬هــذه الفراغــات فــي مدينــة حيــث التنقــل الســريع‬
‫متــاح يجــب أن نســتفيد منهــا‪ ،‬كأن نجعــل الــوادي حديقــة عامــة أو محميــة‬
‫‪74‬‬
 ‫ثمة جيل جديد‬
‫من المعماريين‬
‫حريص على‬
‫التق ّدم في االتجاه‬
‫الصحيح الذي يخدم‬
‫اإلنسان والبيئة‬

‫قميص من ‪ALEXANDER‬‬
‫‪ WANG‬وبنطلون جينز من‬
‫‪ VIVETTA‬وحذاء من ‪CÉLINE‬‬

‫تبنــي المهندســة عالقــة بالمــكان الــذي ســيحضن تصميمهــا‪« .‬أرى أنّ‬
‫َمــن يصمّ ــم بنــا ًء يضــف جملــة إلــى فقــرة كتبهــا آخــرون فــي المــكان نفســه‪.‬‬
‫أخطــط لتنفيــذ بنــاء فــي مــكان مع ّيــن‪ ،‬يجــب أن أفهــم وأستكشــف‬ ‫عندمــا ّ‬
‫طبيعــة المــكان والعمــارة الموجــودة فيــه ومــا يمكــن أن يضمّ ــه مــن أبنيــة‬
‫فــي المســتقبل‪ ،‬كمــا أدرس مــا ن ّفــذه مــن ســبقوني فــي العمــل فــي ذلــك‬
‫المحيــط‪ ،‬وكيــف يمكــن أن أق ـدّم قيمــة إضافيــة إليــه‪ ،‬وال أسـ ّـخر المــكان‬
‫فأخطــط ألن يبــرز اســمي عبــر بــروز التصميــم»‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لنجوميــة أســعى إليهــا‬
‫ليــس ســه ًال تغييــر ثقافــة العمــارة الســائدة والقائمــة علــى التباهــي بــدالً‬
‫مــن احتــرام الطبيعــة ومحيــط البنــاء‪« .‬عندمــا يُبنــى بيــت فــي إحــدى القــرى‬
‫الجبليــة فــي لبنــان نفهــم مــن تصميمــه والح ّيــز الــذي يشــغله حــرص المالــك‬
‫علــى أن يبــرز هــذا البيــت كأنــه يكشــف عــن األمــوال التــي أُنفقــت لبنائــه‪.‬‬
‫كيــف نقنــع النــاس بــأن البيــت األجمــل هــو ذاك الــذي ال يبــرز بــل هــو البنــاء‬
‫الــذي يشــبه محيطــه؟ يجــب أال نحجــب المنظــر الطبيعــي عــن غيرنــا‪ ،‬وأال‬
‫نغلــق الطرقــات أمامهــم‪ ،‬خصوص ـاً علــى المنحــدرات فــي المناطــق الجبليــة‪.‬‬
‫نحتــاج إلــى شــرح أهميــة عالقــة الجمــال باالندمــاج واالنســجام مــع‬
‫الطبيعــة والمحيــط»‪.‬‬
‫أمــا فــي المدينــة‪ ،‬فمــا الــذي تعكســه العمــارة؟ «العمــارة تعكــس موازيــن‬
‫القــوى‪ ،‬والــذوق‪ .‬يمكــن أن نفهــم مشــكالت البلــد السياســية واالقتصاديــة‬
‫عندمــا يحجــب األثريــاء عــن الفقــراء المجــاالت العامــة التــي هــي مــن ح ّقهــم‪،‬‬
‫وعندمــا ُتبنــى مشــاريع علــى البحــر وتمنــع الناس مــن الوصول إلى الشــاطئ‪.‬‬
‫عندمــا يشــتري شــخص واحــد أجمــل تلــة ويبنــي عليهــا أكبــر بيــت ويغ ّيــر‬
‫المشــهد الطبيعــي‪ .‬تكشــف العمــارة كيــف يُســتخدم المــال و َمــن يخــدم‪.‬‬
‫هــذه الموضوعــات يناقشــها بينالــي البندقيــة للعمــارة فــي دورته المقبلــة والتي‬
‫‪Living‬حياة‬
‫«تراس فيال» من تصميم‬
‫هالة يونس‪ ،‬هو بيت بشرفة‬
‫واسعة ّ‬
‫مطل على الطبيعة‬
‫المحيطة به في بلدة شاتين‬
‫في شمال لبنان‬
‫بــدا اختيــار التخصّ ــص فــي الهندســة المعماريــة بديهي ـاً لهالــة يونــس قبــل‬
‫انطالقهــا فــي رحلــة الدراســة الجامعيــة‪ .‬فقــد نشــأت الصبيــة الطموحــة فــي‬
‫كنــف عائلــة تضــمّ مهندســين معمارييــن‪ ،‬وشــعرت بأ ّنهــا تســير بثقــة نحــو‬
‫التخصّ ــص فــي العمــارة‪ .‬وعندمــا قــررت أن توســع دائــرة اختيــار التخصّ ــص‬
‫الجامعــي الــذي سيســاهم فــي صنــع مســتقبلها‪ ،‬وفــي حيــن كانــت تناقــش‬
‫األمــر مــع الدهــا نقــل لهــا مــا قالــه أحــد أصدقائــه وهــو أن مهنــة الهندســة‬
‫المعماريــة «غيــر مناســبة للمــرأة»‪« .‬كانــت هــذه الجملــة كافيــة ألخــوض‬
‫والتمســك بــه‪ .‬والــدي شــخص‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التحــدي وأص ـ ّر علــى اختيــار هــذا التخصّ ــص‬
‫منفتــح وأفــكاره ن ّيــرة‪ ،‬كمــا أن خالتــي مهندســة معماريــة‪ ،‬وكنــت معجبــة‬
‫بإنجازاتهــا‪ ،‬كانــت عرّابتــي وكنــت أود أن أتبــع خطاهــا المهنيــة‪ .‬لعـ ّـل والــدي‬
‫تمســكت بــه ودافعــت عنــه‪ .‬طــرح صعوبــة‬ ‫أراد أن يؤثــر فــي قــراري لكننــي ّ‬
‫أن تمــارس امــرأة هــذه المهنــة أكــد لــي اقتناعــي باختيارهــا»‪.‬‬
‫ال تتطلّــب الهندســة المعماريــة إلمامــاً فنيــاً وقــدرة علــى التصميــم‬
‫والتصــوّر والتخيّــل فحســب بــل تحمــل‪ ،‬كمــا تقــول هالــة يونــس‪« ،‬بعــداً‬
‫سياســياً اجتماعيـاً مهمـاً‪ .‬هــي ليســت مهنــة فنانيــن بــل ترتبــط مباشــرة‬
‫بالمجتمــع وبــأدوار النــاس فــي المجــاالت العامــة وكيــف يتحرّكــون فيهــا‪،‬‬
‫كيــف يتعاطــون مــع بعضهــم البعــض‪ ،‬وترســم أشــكال الحــدود بيــن العــام‬
‫والخــاص‪ .‬البعــد االجتماعــي مهــم فــي الهندســة المعماريــة‪ ،‬إضافــة إلــى‬
‫فهــم المدينــة ومــا يقــوم بــه سـ ّـكانها‪ .‬أنــا أســتاذة فــي الهندســة المعماريــة‬
‫منــذ ‪ 1٥‬ســنة وأقــول لطالبــي (فــي الجامعــة اللبنانيــة األميركيــة)‪ :‬أنتــم‬
‫لســتم فنانيــن فقــط‪ ،‬فــال يكفــي أن يكــون التصميــم جميـ ًال‪ ،‬يجــب أن يكــون‬
‫منســجماً مــع محيطــه وأن يحتــرم بيئتــه‪ ،‬فالتصميــم الجميــل ال يبــرز‪ ،‬ال‬
‫يظهــر واضح ـاً نافــراً ضمــن محيطــه»‪.‬‬
‫‪72‬‬
‫المهندسة هالة يونس على‬
‫شرفة بيت من تصميمها‬
‫ترتدي قميصاً وبنطلون جينز‬
‫من ‪ ،UNRAVEL PROJECT‬تي‬
‫شيرت من ‪ ،REDONE‬وتنتعل‬
‫حذا ًء من ‪COURRÈGES‬‬

‫‪71‬‬
 ‫‪Living‬حياة‬

‫المهندسة المعمارية هالة يونس هي‬

‫منسقة الجناح اللبناني في المعرض‬ ‫ّ‬
‫العالمي للعمارة‪ -‬بينالي البندقية الذي‬
‫تقام دورته السادسة عشرة بين ‪٢٦‬‬
‫مايو و‪ ٢٥‬أكتوبر ‪ ٢٠١٨‬مس ّلطة الضوء‬
‫على «المجاالت الح ّرة» أو «المساحات‬
‫غير المبنية»‪ .‬التقينا المعمارية‬
‫المتحمسة لفهم «ثقافة األرض‬ ‫ّ‬
‫وتحسس واقعها»‪ ،‬فشرحت لنا‬ ‫ّ‬
‫توجه العمارة نحو ما يخدم اإلنسان‬ ‫ّ‬
‫والبيئة وح ّدثتنا عن مدن المستقبل‬
‫‪HALA KAWSARANI‬‬ ‫بقلم‬ ‫تصوير ‪SAM RAWADI‬‬
 ‫سترة وبنطلون من‬
‫؛ قميص من‬AWAKE
‫؛‬CHANEL ‫؛ حذاء من‬DIOR
IGNATIUS ‫قبعة من‬

JACKET, PANTS, AWAKE;

SHIRT, DIOR; SHOES,
CHANEL; HAT, IGNATIUS
 ‫معطف وبنطلون من‬
‫؛‬MERCHANT ARCHIVE
‫؛‬BURBERRY ‫قميص من‬
CHRISTOPHER ‫حذاء من‬
CHANEL ‫؛ قالدة من‬KANE

COAT, PANTS, MERCHANT

ARCHIVE; SHIRT, BURBERRY;
SHOES, CHRISTOPHER
KANE; NECKLACE, CHANEL

PABLO ‫تصفيف الشعر‬

TONI MALT ‫ مكياج‬KUEMIN
ALICE ANDREWS ‫ديكور‬
RAQUEL PASCUAL ‫العارضة‬
MILK ‫ من وكالة‬VILA
‫ شكر‬MANAGEMENT
AARDVARK ‫خاص إلى‬
UPHOLSTERY

68
PETAR PETROV ‫سترة من‬
‫؛‬NET-A-PORTER ‫على موقع‬
‫«بودي سوت» وتنورة‬
STELLA ‫وحذاء من‬
‫؛ قبعة‬MCCARTNEY
DIOR ‫من‬

JACKET, PETAR PETROV

AT NET-A-PORTER; BODYSUIT,
SKIRT, SHOES, STELLA
MCCARTNEY; HAT, DIOR

67
ROLAND ‫توب من‬
‫؛ زينة للرأس‬MOURET
GUCCI ‫من‬

TOP, ROLAND MOURET;

HEADBAND, GUCCI
‫سترة و«بودي‬
‫سوت» وتنورة‬
DIOR ‫من‬

JACKET, BODYSUIT,
SKIRT, DIOR

65
‫؛‬FENDI ‫سترة وتنورة من‬
CHRISTOPHER ‫حذاء من‬
PHILIP ‫؛ قبعة من‬KANE
‫؛ قرطان من‬TREACY
CORNELIA WEBB

JACKET, SKIRT, FENDI; SHOES,

CHRISTOPHER KANE; HAT,
PHILIP TREACY; EARRINGS,
CORNELIA WEBB
 ‫تستعيد ّ‬
‫القصات المريحة‬
‫وهجها في ربيع وصيف‬
‫‪ ،2018‬لذا اِعتمدي اإلطالالت‬
‫ً‬
‫مفككة لالرتقاء‬ ‫التي تبدو‬
‫بمظهرك بجاذبية أنيقة‬
‫ِ‬
‫تصوير ‪DANIEL ARCHER‬‬

‫‪paint it‬‬
‫تنسيق أزياء ‪INA LEKIEWICZ‬‬

‫‪BLACK‬‬
 ‫معطف وفستان من‬
‫؛ قبعة‬CHRISTOPHER KANE
‫ الصفحة‬PHILIP TREACY ‫من‬
‫المقابلة معطف وبنطلون‬
‫؛ قالدة‬CÉLINE ‫وحذاء من‬
CORNELIA WEBB ‫من‬

COAT, DRESS, CHRISTOPHER

KANE; HAT, PHILIP TREACY
OPPOSITE COAT, PANTS,
SHOES, CÉLINE; NECKLACE,
CORNELIA WEBB

62
t
The Arab Fashion
Council’s newly
he news that Her Highness Princess Noura bint appointed a second showcase in Riyadh is on
Faisal Al Saud would be joining the Arab Fashion
Council started to make the rounds on Instagram. executive president, the books for October.
Behind the perceived glamour
Mid-February, during a London fashion week Her Highness of fashion events, however, Jacob
breakfast for journalists, Caroline Rush, chief
executive officer of the British Fashion Council, Princess Noura Abrian, founder and CEO of
the Arab Fashion Council, is
announced the formal partnership between the bint Faisal Al Saud, seeking to establish a fully self-
British and Arab fashion councils. Its purpose,
she said, would be to tap into the Arab Fashion Council’s regional says a fashion week sufficient industry. The council
urges designers to navigate a
knowledge to support British fashion businesses. Rush then in Saudi Arabia “Made in Arabia” infrastructure.
motioned to a woman sitting across from her. “We’re honored
to have Her Highness Princess Noura here today,” she stated. The
is a catalyst for This involves benefitting from the
Arab world’s resources and talents
princess nodded to the delighted journalists seated at her table. major change in clusters: North African Arab
On that rainy morning in London, it was something of a spring countries can supply textiles and
promise of progressive change to come. raw material; Levant countries

ROBERTO CAVALLI
The Saudi princess tells Vogue Arabia, “My appointment as can offer garment manufacturing
honorary president to the Arab Fashion Council came after deep and finishing expertise; and the
analysis and studies.” In fact, her position was quietly announced Gulf countries are positioned as
in December last year, at the same time the Arab Fashion the go-to for retail and marketing.
Council declared that it would open an office in Riyadh. “I plan Abrian says, “New York fashion
to commit for as long as I am able to add value in serving the week began 75 years ago, during
vision of both Saudi Arabia and the Arab Fashion Council.” the second world war. When we
Her commitment has no set terms, only to “urge for speak about the war zones in the
acceleration in realizing our goals.” The princess continues, Arab world, or the Arab Spring,
“Arab fashion week is just the beginning for successive the image perceived in the West is
achievements to come.” Her Highness stresses the not a good interpretation. But in
council’s position in Saudi Arabia’s Vision 2030 – a plan those conflict zones we have some
to reduce Saudi Arabia’s dependence on oil, diversify its of the wealthiest human resources.”
economy, and develop public service industries. “The Her Highness Princess Noura
Arab fashion week in Riyadh will be more than a world- understands that fashion can also
class event, it is a catalyst through which we believe the encourage promoting a woman’s
fashion industry will lead other economic sectors, such point of view. She considers fashion
as tourism, hospitality, travel, and trade.” an extension of oneself. “It can be
The Arab Fashion Council launched in 2014. Introduced very diverse, just like every woman
ARWA AL BANAWI

as “the world’s largest not-for-profit organization,” it holds the – each one is different,” she says. “A
license of an international extraterritorial authority to represent woman can be beautiful and strong,
the fashion industry in 22 Arab countries. Its biannual fashion and all these values can be expressed through a personal
weeks – until recently, held in Dubai sense of fashion and style.” She recalls how her own
– exclusively showcase ready-couture interest in fashion blossomed during her days studying
MASHAEL AL RAJHI

and pre-collections by both regional towards a master’s degree in international business at

and international fashion brands. The the Rikkyo University in Tokyo. “The street fashion in
debut fashion week in Riyadh, from Tokyo was intense; it was there that I was inspired to
April 10 to 14 at the Ritz Carlton, will find my own style,” says the princess, who is fluent in
open with Roberto Cavalli, followed by Arabic, English, French, and Japanese. Managing
regional brands like Arwa Al-Ammari, a daily agenda of meetings, she enjoys dressing
Basil Soda, and Arwa Al Banawi. The “comfortably, but still chic.” When she does attend
week will also feature shows by Jean formal events, she will wear something “feminine,
Paul Gaultier and Reem Acra. elegant, and understated.”
The Saudi edition represents Her Highness anticipates that the upcoming
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

a breakaway from Dubai, where fashion week will inspire Saudi’s fashion-inclined
previous fashion weeks organized by citizens to experiment with fashion even further.
the council have been showcased. It “With more women traveling and becoming more
doesn’t mean the emirate is off the map exposed, I see Saudi women finding their own fashion
INDIGITAL :‫الصورة‬

entirely; on the contrary, the council is sense. They are becoming more confident and bold in
simply expanding its outreach. Dubai’s their fashion choices; and giving their own personal
fashion week is scheduled for May and touch that is very Saudi – and I love that.” ☐

٦1
 ‫األميرة نورة بنت‬
‫فيصل آل سعود‬

‫االســتفادة مــن مــوارد العالــم العربــي ومواهبــه ضمــن مجموعــات تكامليــة‪:‬‬

‫حيــث يمكــن للــدول العربيــة فــي شــمال إفريقيــا توفيــر المنســوجات‬
‫والمــواد الخــام؛ فيمــا تقــوم بــاد الشــام بصناعــة المابــس وتقديــم خبراتهــا‬
‫فــي اللمســات النهائيــة؛ أمــا دول الخليــج فهــي فــي وضــع يؤهلهــا لتكــون‬
‫مركــزاً لتجــارة التجزئــة والتســويق‪ .‬ويســتكمل أبريــان حديثــه قائـ ًا‪« :‬بــدأ‬
‫أســبوع الموضــة فــي نيويــورك قبــل ‪ 75‬عامـاً‪ ،‬أثنــاء الحــرب العالميــة الثانيــة‪.‬‬
‫وعندمــا نتحــدث عــن مناطــق الحــروب فــي العالــم العربــي‪ ،‬أو الربيــع العربــي‪،‬‬
‫فــإن الصــورة التــي يراهــا الغــرب ال تقــدم شــرحاً جيــداً‪ .‬ولكننــا فــي مناطــق‬
‫الصــراع هــذه لدينــا أغنــى المــوارد البشــرية»‪.‬‬
‫إلــى جانــب فــرص العمــل‪ ،‬يكتســب تمكيــن المــرأة فــي العالــم العربــي‬
‫وتــدرك األميــرة نــورة أن الموضــة‬ ‫أرضيــة جديــدة فــي كل ركــن مــن أركانــه‪ُ ،‬‬
‫يمكــن أيضــاً أن تعــزز الترويــج لــرأي‬
‫المــرأة‪ ،‬فهــي تعتبــر الموضــة امتــداداً‬
‫لإلنســان نفســه‪« .‬يمكــن أن تكــون‬ ‫صارت السعوديات‬
‫فــي غايــة التنــوع‪ ،‬تمامــاً مثــل النســاء‬
‫– تختلــف كل امــرأة عــن األخــرى‪.‬‬ ‫أكثر ثقة وجرأة في‬
‫وقــد تتمتــع المــرأة بالجمــال والقــوة‪،‬‬
‫ويمكــن أن تع ّبــر عــن قيمهــا عبــر ذوقهــا‬
‫اختيار أزيائهن التي‬
‫الخــاص فــي الموضــة واألســلوب»‪.‬‬
‫وتتذكــر األميــرة ‪-‬التــي تتحــدث بطاقــة‬
‫يضفن إليها لمسات‬
‫العربيــة‪ ،‬واإلنكليزيــة‪ ،‬والفرنســية‪،‬‬
‫واليابانيــة؛ وتعيــش جــدول أعمــال حافـ ًا‬
‫األصالة‪ ،‬وهو ما‬
‫باالجتماعــات يوميــاً؛ وتســتمتع بارتــداء‬ ‫ّ‬
‫يستحق اإلعجاب‬
‫أزيــاء «مريحــة‪ ،‬ال تخلــو مــن األناقــة»؛‬
‫وترتــدي قطعـاً «أنثوية‪ ،‬أنيقة‪ ،‬وبســيطة»‬ ‫واالهتمام‬
‫عندمــا تحضــر مناســبات رســمية‪ -‬كيــف‬
‫أن اهتمامهــا بالموضــة نمــا خــال األيــام‬
‫التــي أمضتهــا فــي الدراســة لنيــل درجــة‬ ‫أروى العمــاري وأروى البنــاوي ودار باســيل‬
‫الماجســتير فــي األعمــال الدوليــة مــن‬ ‫ســودا‪ .‬كمــا ســيقدم جــان بــول غوتييــه وريــم‬
‫جامعــة ريكيــو باليابــان‪ ،‬فتقــول‪« :‬كان‬ ‫عكــرا عرضيــن خــال هــذا األســبوع‪ .‬ويعــ ّد إقامــة‬
‫للموضــة حضــور قــوي فــي شــوارع‬ ‫أســبوع الموضــة بنســخته الســعودية بعيــداً عــن‬
‫طوكيــو؛ وهنــاك دفعنــي اإللهــام إلــى‬ ‫إمــارة دبــي المتألقــة‪ ،‬حيــث نظــم المجلــس أســابيع‬
‫البحــث عــن أســلوبي الخــاص»‪.‬‬ ‫الموضــة الســابقة‪ ،‬تغييــراً جذريــاً مهمــاً‪ .‬وال يعنــي‬
‫تتوقــع األميــرة نــورة أن يلهــم‬ ‫ذلــك إزاحــة دبــي مــن علــى خريطــة الموضــة تمام ـاً؛‬
‫‪ROBERTO CAVALLI‬‬

‫أســبوع الموضــة الســعوديات اللواتــي‬ ‫بــل العكــس هــو الصحيــح‪ ،‬ولكنهــا مجــرد خطــوة‬
‫يعشــقن الموضــة‪ ،‬ويدفعهــن إلــى‬ ‫يوســع بهــا المجلــس نطــاق نشــاطه‪ .‬أمــا دبــي فمــن‬
‫تجريــب فــي عوالمهــا علــى نطــاق‬ ‫المقــرر أن تســتضيف أســبوع الموضــة شــهر مايــو‬
‫أوســع‪ .‬وتوضــح قائلـ ًة‪« :‬مــع تزايــد أعــداد‬ ‫المقبــل يليــه تنظيــم أســبوع ثــان فــي الريــاض خــال‬
‫النســاء اللواتــي يســافرن إلــى الخــارج‬ ‫شهر أكتوبر‪.‬‬
‫ويكتســبن خبــرات جديــدة‪ ،‬أرى أنّ‬ ‫وبعيــداً عــن المشــاهد المبهــرة والمناســبات‬
‫بحــس‬
‫ّ‬ ‫الســعوديات أصبحــن يتمتعــن‬ ‫االجتماعيــة المترفــة المصاحبــة لفعاليــات الموضــة‪،‬‬
‫خــاص بالموضــة‪ .‬كمــا صــرن أكثــر ثقــة‬ ‫يبحــث جاكــوب أبريــان‪ ،‬المؤســس والرئيــس‬
‫وجــرأة فــي اختيــار أزيائهــن التــي يضفــن‬ ‫التنفيــذي لمجلــس األزيــاء العربــي‪ ،‬فــي المقــام األول‬
‫إليهــا لمســات خاصــة تتســم بالمامــح‬ ‫عــن تأســيس صناعــة تتميــز باالكتفــاء الذاتــي‪ .‬ويحـ ّـث‬
‫الســعودية األصيلــة – وهــو مــا يثيــر‬ ‫سيشهد فندق الريتز كارلتون‬ ‫ـس المصمميــن علــى إقامــة بنيــة تحتيــة ترتكــز‬ ‫المجلـ ُ‬
‫إعجابــي وأحترمــه»‪☐ .‬‬ ‫عروض أسبوع الموضة العربي‬ ‫إلــى كلمــات «صنــع فــي الــدول العربيــة» مــا يعنــي‬
 ‫بعد تعيينها رئيساً شرفياً‬
‫لمجلس األزياء العربي‪،‬‬
‫تتح ّدث صاحبة السمو‬
‫األميرة نورة بنت فيصل‬
‫آل سعود عن أسبوع‬
‫كل مــن الســعودية ومجلــس األزيــاء العربــي»‪ .‬وهــذا االلتــزام ليــس‬ ‫رؤيــة ٍ‬ ‫الموضة في السعودية‬ ‫أثــار خبــر انضمــام صاحبــة الســمو‬
‫لــه شــروط محــددة‪ ،‬فقــط‪ ،‬وكمــا جــاء علــى لســان األميــرة‪« :‬الدفــع ُقدُمـاً‬ ‫األميــرة نــورة بنــت فيصــل آل ســعود‬
‫بأهدافنــا وتعجيــل تحقيقهــا»‪ .‬وواصلــت حديثهــا قائلــ ًة‪« :‬أســبوع الموضــة‬ ‫باعتباره حافزاً سيساهم‬ ‫إلــى مجلــس األزيــاء العربــي موجــة‬
‫العربــي ليــس ســوى صفحــة البدايــة لإلنجــازات المتواليــة القادمــة»‪ .‬وتؤكــد‬ ‫في تشجيع صناعة‬ ‫مــن المناقشــات والتكهنــات –كمــا هــي‬
‫األميــرة نــورة علــى الوضــع البــارز للمجلــس فــي المشــروع التنمــوي‬ ‫العــادة اآلن– علــى موقــع انســتقرام‪.‬‬
‫’رؤيــة المملكــة العربيــة الســعودية ‪ – ‘2030‬وهــي خطــة تســتهدف تقليــص‬ ‫الموضة وتمكين المرأة‬ ‫وكانــت كاروليــن راش‪ ،‬الرئيســة‬
‫اعتمــاد الســعودية علــى النفــط‪ ،‬وتنويــع اســتثماراتها االقتصاديــة‪ ،‬وتطويــر‬ ‫التنفيذيــة لمجلــس األزيــاء البريطانــي‪،‬‬
‫قطاعــات الخدمــات العامــة فيهــا‪« .‬ســيغدو أســبوع الموضــة العربــي أكثــر‬ ‫بقلم ‪CATERINA MINTHE‬‬ ‫قــد أعلنــت فــي منتصــف شــهر فبرايــر‬
‫مــن مج ـرّد حــدث عالمــي‪ ،‬فهــو الحافــز الــذي نؤمــن بأنــه ســيجعل صناعــة‬ ‫الماضــي عــن شــراكة رســمية بيــن‬
‫الموضــة تقــود غيرهــا مــن القطاعــات االقتصاديــة األخــرى‪ ،‬مثــل الســياحة‪،‬‬ ‫المجلســين العربــي والبريطانــي‪ ،‬أثنــاء مأدبــة إفطــار أقيمــت للصحفييــن‬
‫والضيافــة‪ ،‬والســفر‪ ،‬والتجــارة»‪.‬‬ ‫خــال أســبوع الموضــة فــي لنــدن‪ .‬وقالــت إن هــذه الشــراكة تهــدف‬
‫كان تأســيس مجلــس األزيــاء العربــي عــام ‪ 2014‬خطــوة جريئــة وغيــر‬ ‫إلــى وضــع خطــط اســتراتيجية واالســتفادة مــن خبــرة مجلــس األزيــاء‬
‫معتــادة فــي العالــم العربــي‪ .‬وقــد جــرى اإلعــان عنــه بوصفــة «أكبــر منظمــة‬ ‫العربــي علــى المســتوى اإلقليمــي لدعــم شــركات األزيــاء البريطانيــة‬
‫غيــر ربحيــة للموضــة فــي العالــم» وحصــل علــى إجــازة للعمــل كهيئــة دوليــة‬ ‫قبــل أن تنظــر إلــى امــرأة تجلــس بالقــرب منهــا قائلــ ًة‪« :‬إنــه لشــرف‬
‫تتجــاوز الحــدود اإلقليميــة لتمثــل صناعــة الموضــة فــي ‪ 22‬دولــة عربيــة‪.‬‬ ‫عظيــم لنــا حضــور صاحبــة الســمو األميــرة نــورة هنــا»‪ .‬وبإيمــاءة مــن‬
‫وحتــى وقــت قريــب‪ ،‬لــم يكــن المجلــس ينظــم أســبوع الموضــة الــذي يقيمــه‬ ‫رأســها ح ّيــت األميــرة الصحفييــن الذيــن جلســوا ســعداء حــول مائدتهــا‬
‫مرتيــن ســنوياً‪ ،‬ســوى فــي دبــي – حيــث ُتعــرض حصري ـاً األزيــاء الراقيــة‬ ‫المزينــة بزهــور الياســنت األبيــض والهدرانــج‪ .‬وكان مثــل هــذا الخبــر‬
‫ومجموعــات مــا قبــل المواســم لعامــات األزيــاء اإلقليميــة والعالميــة‪.‬‬ ‫فــي صبــاح لندنــي ممطــر كنســمة ربيعيــة منعشــة وشــت بريــاح التغييــر‬
‫وتســتضيف الريــاض للمــرة األولــى أســبوع الموضــة بيــن ‪ 10‬و‪ 14‬أبريــل‬ ‫التدريجي القادم‪.‬‬
‫الجــاري‪ ،‬فــي فنــدق الريتــز كارلتــون فــي الريــاض‪ ،‬وسيشــهد افتتاحــه‬ ‫وفــي لقــاء لهــا مــع ڤــوغ العربيــة‪ ،‬قالــت األميــرة الســعودية‪« :‬تعيينــي‬
‫عــرض روبرتــو كاڤالــي‪ .‬وقــد علّــق جيــان جياكومــو فيراريــس‪ ،‬الرئيــس‬ ‫رئيس ـاً شــرفياً لمجلــس األزيــاء العربــي جــاء بعــد إجــراء تحليــل متعمّ ــق‬
‫التنفيــذي لمجموعــة روبرتــو كاڤالــي‪ ،‬علــى هــذا الحــدث المنتظــر بســعادة‬ ‫ودراســات مســتفيضة»‪ .‬فــي الواقــع‪ ،‬تــم اإلعــان عــن تعيينهــا فــي هــذا‬
‫قائــ ًا‪« :‬لطالمــا احتضنــت الســعودية والعالــم العربــي أســلوبَ روبرتــو‬ ‫المنصــب بهــدوء تــام فــي ديســمبر الماضــي‪ ،‬فــي وقــت تزامــن مــع إعــان‬
‫كاڤالــي‪ .‬وفــي الوقــت نفســه‪ ،‬ألهمــت ثقافتــه الثريــة العامــة إلهامـاً عميقـاً»‪.‬‬ ‫مجلــس األزيــاء العربــي افتتــاح مقــ ّر لــه فــي الريــاض‪ .‬وأضافــت‪« :‬أنــوي‬
‫وســتتبع عــرض روبرتــو كاڤالــي عــروض العامــات اإلقليميــة مثــل‬ ‫االلتــزام بمنصبــي هــذا طالمــا كان بوســعي إضافــة قيمــة حقيقيــة تخــدم‬

‫‪59‬‬
‫صاحبة السمو األميرة نورة‬
‫بنت فيصل آل سعود‬
‫؛ سوار‬DOLCE & GABBANA ‫فستان وقرطان من‬
ISAAC MANEVITZ ‫ من تصميم‬BEN-AMUN ‫من‬

‫ من وكالة‬ERIC WILLIAMS ‫تصفيف الشعر‬

GHD ‫ باستعمال منتجات‬WALTER SCHUPFER
STREETERS ‫ من وكالة‬YUKI HAYASHI ‫مكياج‬
GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY ‫باستعمال منتجات‬
‫ تصميم الخلفيات‬MIGUEL ZARATE ‫تصميم الرقصات‬
BRYDGES ‫ من وكالة‬VANESSA BARRANTES
THE PRODUCTION FACTORY NY ‫ إنتاج‬MACKINNEY
PAULINA CASTRO OGANDO ‫مساعدو األزياء‬
‫ مساعدا الشعر‬MAZHANÉ ROSE‫ و‬SIQIAO MENG‫و‬
‫ مساعدا‬MICHAEL WARREN ‫ و‬RASHAD TAYLOR
‫ العارضون‬GRACE ROSE ‫ و‬RILEY KATE ‫المكياج‬
‫ من‬LORI HARVEY‫ و‬SELAH MARLEY ‫والعارضات‬
KOBE DELGADO ‫؛‬AL STAR ENTERTAINMENT ‫وكالة‬
CLICK ‫ من وكالة‬RAPHAEL‫ و‬AUSTEN PLANES‫و‬
‫؛‬FENTON MODELS ‫ من وكالة‬ZAQUAN ‫؛‬MODELS
LUE ‫؛‬FORD MODELS ‫ من وكالة‬ELLA RATTIGAN
CALEB ELIJAH ‫؛‬FUSION MODELS ‫ من وكالة‬DORIS
‫ من‬MARKEL WILLIAMS‫ و‬SISTINE STALLONE‫و‬
MAJOR ‫ من وكالة‬TONY RODRIGUEZ ‫؛‬IMG ‫وكالة‬
KENNIDY HUNTER ‫؛‬MODEL NYC
ALANA‫ و‬THAIS MARTINS‫ و‬KARO LACZKOWSKA‫و‬
JAY‫ و‬DOM ALBA ‫؛‬MUSE NYC ‫ من وكالة‬CASSI‫و‬
JUSTIN ‫؛‬NEW YORK MODELS ‫ من وكالة‬WRIGHT
MYLES B O’NEAL‫ و‬MATTHEW MCCABE‫ و‬LAVELLE
ELEANOR LAMBERT ‫؛‬NEXT MODELS ‫من وكالة‬
STEVAN DITTER ‫؛‬ONE MANAGEMENT ‫من وكالة‬
‫ من وكالة‬ELLA RICHARDS ‫؛‬Q MODELS ‫من وكالة‬
‫ و‬CLARA MCGREGOR‫ و‬CAI LEE‫؛ و‬SUPREME
‫ من وكالة‬ZIKALE‫ و‬MAKALA‫ و‬DJENICE‫ و‬BRIGGS
WILHELMINA MODELS

57
‫إطاللة ‪ JAY‬فستان وحذاء طويل الساق من‬
‫‪CÉLINE‬؛ قفازان من ‪ LACRASIA‬إطاللة ‪ TONY‬بذلة من‬
‫‪SALVATORE FERRAGAMO‬؛ قميص من ‪LOUIS VUITTON‬؛‬
‫ربطة عنق بابيون من ‪ DSQUARED2‬إطاللة ‪ELEANOR‬‬
‫فستان من ‪J. MENDEL‬؛ قفازان من ‪LACRASIA‬‬

‫‪56‬‬
 SISTINE
STA L L O N E
19, daughter of actor
Sylvester Stallone

My sisters and
I have been in the
SPOTLIGHT
from such a
young age, we
don’t know any
different. It is
our normal.
I am lucky
to have such
SUPPORTIVE
parents who will
stand by any
decision
I make

‫؛ قفازان من‬HUSSEIN BAZAZA ‫فستان وتوب من‬

‫ من تصميم‬BEN-AMUN ‫؛ سوار من‬LACRASIA
ISAAC MANEVITZ

55
‫ فساتين من‬ALANA‫ و‬CAI LEE‫ و‬CASSI ‫إطالالت‬
‫؛ مجوهرات‬LACRASIA ‫؛ قفازات من‬AZZI & OSTA
ISAAC MANEVITZ ‫ من تصميم‬BEN-AMUN ‫من‬
LORI HARVEY
21, stepdaughter of TV
personality Steve Harvey

My parents are
AMAZING. I was
homeschooled
so I was able to
TRAVEL the
world with them,
have incredible
experiences, and
learn great life
lessons from them.
They also did their
BEST to make
sure I had a normal
childhood without
the scrutiny of the
public eye
‫؛ قفازان‬GIAMBATTISTA VALLI ‫فستان من‬
BEN-AMUN ‫؛ قرطان من‬LACRASIA ‫من‬
ISAAC MANEVITZ ‫من تصميم‬

53
ELEANOR LAMBERT
24, daughter of actors Diane Lane
and Christopher Lambert

I was incredibly
BLESSED to have
parents who made
sure I was given a life
of relative normalcy
and privacy. My mom
is my BEST FRIEND,
closest confidante, and
biggest ally. My father
is an extraordinary
man. What excites me
most about the future
to see young people
EXPLORE, reassess,
and REMOLD
our realities

‫؛ حذاء من‬ETRO ‫فستان من‬

‫؛ قرطان‬DOLCE & GABBANA
HARRY WINSTON ‫وقالدة من‬
ELLA RICHARDS
21, granddaughter of Rolling
Stones guitarist Keith Richards

My childhood
was definitely
INTERESTING
but I consider
myself very
LUCKY. I am
excited about what
the future holds
because who
knows what will
happen?

‫؛ قفازان‬PRADA ‫فستان من‬

‫؛ حذاء من‬LACRASIA ‫من‬
DOLCE & GABBANA
‫من اليسار‪ :‬إطاللة ‪ DJENIS‬فستان من ‪LUISA BECCARIA‬؛ حذاء من ‪SALVATORE‬‬
‫‪FERRAGAMO‬؛ قالدة من ‪ BEN-AMUN‬من تصميم ‪ ISAAC MANEVITZ‬إطاللة ‪THAISE‬‬
‫فستان من ‪LUISA BECCARIA‬؛ قالدة من ‪ BEN-AMUN‬من تصميم ‪ISAAC MANEVITZ‬‬
‫إطاللة ‪ MAKALA‬فستان من ‪BLUMARINE‬؛ قفازان من ‪LACRASIA‬؛ حذاء من‬
‫‪ VERSACE‬إطاللة ‪ LOU‬سترة وقميص وبنطلون وربطة عنق بابيون من ‪DSQUARED2‬؛‬
‫منسقة األزياء‬
‫تخص ِّ‬‫حذاء من ‪LOUIS VUITTON‬؛ جوارب ُّ‬

‫‪50‬‬
 ‫؛ حذاء‬GUCCI ‫فستان من‬
‫؛‬DIOR ‫طويل الساق من‬
DOLCE & GABBANA ‫تاج من‬

SELAH MARLEY
19, daughter of musician Lauryn Hill
and granddaughter of Bob Marley

I didn’t UNDERSTAND
the life I was living until I
came of age and was able to
see the world through my
PARENTS’ eyes
49
 ‫إطاللة ‪ JUSTIN‬سترة وكنزة بال أكمام وبنطلون من‬
‫‪ MICHAEL KORS‬إطاللة ‪ CARO‬فستان من ‪EMILIA WICKSTEAD‬؛‬
‫قفازان من ‪ LACRASIA‬إطاللة ‪ ELLA RICHARDS‬فستان وحذاء‬
‫طويل الساق وحقيبة من ‪CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC‬‬
‫الصف األمامي (من اليسار)‪ :‬إطاللة‬
‫‪ ELLA‬فستان من ‪VERSACE‬؛ قفازان من‬
‫‪LACRASIA‬؛ حذاء من ‪ VERSACE‬قرطان‬
‫من ‪ BEN-AMUN‬من تصميم ‪ISAAC‬‬
‫‪ MANEVITZ‬إطاللة ‪ BRIGGS‬فستان من‬
‫‪MISSONI‬؛ حذاء من ‪TOM FORD‬؛ قفازان‬
‫من ‪LACRASIA‬؛ قرطان من ‪BEN-AMUN‬‬
‫من تصميم ‪ ISAAC MANEVITZ‬إطاللة‬
‫‪ ELEONOR‬قميص وتنورة من ‪STELLA‬‬
‫‪MCCARTNEY‬؛ قفازان من ‪LACRASIA‬؛‬
‫حذاء من ‪SALVATORE FERRAGAMO‬‬
‫إطاللة ‪ KENNIDY‬فستان من ‪REEM‬‬
‫‪ACRA‬؛ قفازان من ‪LACRASIA‬‬
‫الصف الخلفي (من اليسار)‪ :‬إطاللة‬
‫‪ ZIKALE‬بذلة من ‪HERMÈS‬؛ قميص من‬
‫‪BURBERRY‬؛ حذاء من ‪LOUIS VUITTON‬‬
‫إطاللة ‪ ZAQUAN‬بذلة وقميص من‬
‫‪BURBERRY‬؛ ربطة عنق بابيون من‬
‫‪DOLCE & GABBANA‬؛ إطاللة ‪AUSTEN‬‬
‫سترة بلوزون وقميص وبنطلون‬
‫وحزام من ‪ BOTTEGA VENETA‬إطاللة‬
‫‪ JUSTIN‬بذلة وقميص من ‪BURBERRY‬؛‬
‫ربطة عنق بابيون من & ‪DOLCE‬‬
‫‪ GABBANA‬إطاللة ‪ KOBE‬سترة من‬
‫‪KARL LAGERFELD‬؛ قميص من‬
‫‪DSQUARED2‬؛ بنطلون من ‪SALVATORE‬‬
‫‪ FERRAGAMO‬إطاللة ‪ TONY‬بذلة من‬
‫‪SALVATORE FERRAGAMO‬؛ قميص‬
‫من ‪ LOUIS VUITTON‬ربطة عنق بابيون‬
‫من ‪ DSQUARED2‬إطاللة ‪MARKEL‬‬
‫معطف وصدرية وقميص وبنطلون من‬
‫‪ GIVENCHY‬إطاللة ‪ CALEB‬سترة من‬
‫‪PERRY ELLIS‬؛ كنزة صوفية من ‪PRADA‬؛‬
‫قميص وبنطلون من ‪VERSACE‬‬
46
 M Y L E S B O ’ N E A L 20, son of NBA player Shaquille O’Neal

I’m excited for my FUTURE. I’ve only just started working

in the FASHION industry, so everything is still new

‫؛‬STELLA MCCARTNEY ‫؛ قميص من‬ETRO ‫بذلة من‬

‫إكسسوارات خاصة بالعارض‬
 CLARA MCGREGOR
22, daughter of actor Ewan McGregor

Growing up, I
was never put in the
SPOTLIGHT. I chose
when I was ready to be
in the public eye and
I APPRECIATE my
parents’ approach with
that. I am most excited
about making movies,
playing interesting
and CHALLENGING
ROLES, and traveling
the world

‫؛ حذاء‬SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ‫فستان من‬

‫؛‬LACRASIA ‫؛ قفازان من‬DOLCE & GABBANA ‫من‬
‫ من تصميم‬BEN-AMUN ‫قرطان وسوار من‬
ISAAC MANEVITZ

44
 ‫‪Debutants‬‬ ‫تصوير‬
‫‪HAO ZENG‬‬
‫تنسيق أزياء‬
‫‪ANNA KATSANIS‬‬
‫الصف الخلفي (من اليسار)‪ :‬إطاللة‬
‫‪ LOU‬سترة وقميص وبنطلون وربطة‬
‫عنق بابيون من ‪DSQUARED2‬؛ حذاء‬
‫من ‪ LOUIS VUITTON‬إطاللة ‪MATTHEW‬‬
‫سترة من ‪KARL LAGERFELD‬؛ قميص‬
‫من ‪VERSACE‬؛ بنطلون من ‪SALVATORE‬‬
‫‪FERRAGAMO‬؛ حذاء من ‪DSQUARED2‬‬
‫إطاللة ‪ MYLES B O’NEAL‬سترة وقميص‬
‫وجينز من ‪ BALENCIAGA‬إطاللة ‪STEVAN‬‬
‫بذلة وقميص وربطة عنق بابيون من‬
‫‪ DOLCE & GABBANA‬إطاللة ‪RAPHAEL‬‬
‫بذلة وقميص وربطة عنق بابيون من‬
‫‪DOLCE & GABBANA‬‬
‫الصف األمامي‪ :‬إطاللة ‪DJENICE‬‬
‫فستان من ‪LUISA BECCARIA‬؛ حذاء من‬
‫‪SALVATORE FERRAGAMO‬؛ قالدة من‬
‫‪ BEN-AMUN‬من تصميم ‪ISAAC MANEVITZ‬‬
‫إطاللة ‪ SISTINE STALLONE‬فستان‬
‫وبلوزة وحذاء من ‪LOUIS VUITTON‬؛‬
‫مجوهرات من ‪ HARRY WINSTON‬إطاللة‬
‫‪ MAKALA‬فستان من ‪BLUMARINE‬؛ حذاء‬
‫من ‪VERSACE‬؛ قفازان من ‪LACRASIA‬‬
‫إطاللة ‪ CLARA‬فستان من ‪GEORGES‬‬ ‫ﻧﺘﻌ ّﺮف إﻟﻰ ﺟﻴﻞ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻮاﻫﺐ‬
‫‪HOBEIKA‬؛ حذاء من ‪JIL SANDERS‬؛‬
‫مجوهــرات من ‪ HARRY WINSTON‬قرطان‬
‫ُ‬
‫ﺳﻠﻴﻞ ﻛﺒﺎر اﻟﻨﺠﻮم‪،‬‬ ‫اﻟﺼﺎﻋﺪة‪ ،‬ﺑﻌﻀﻬﻢ‬
‫من ‪ BEN-AMUN‬من تصميم ‪ISAAC‬‬ ‫ﻳﻤﺜﻞ ﻧﺨﺒﺔ ﻋﺎرﺿﻲ وﻋﺎرﺿﺎت‬ ‫واﻟﺒﻌﺾ اﻵﺧﺮ ّ‬
‫‪ MANEVITZ‬إطاللة ‪ THAIS‬فستان من‬
‫‪LUISA BECCARIA‬‬ ‫اﻷزﻳﺎء ُ‬
‫اﻟﺠﺪد’ ﻧﺠﻮم اﻟﻐﺪ ﻳﻌ ّﺒﺮون ﻋﻦ آﻣﺎﻟﻬﻢ‬
‫‪4٢‬‬
VIVIENNE ‫معطف من‬
‫ بنطلون‬WESTWOOD
PRADA ‫من‬

BLACK CREATIVE ‫إنتاج‬

‫ موقع التصوير‬STUDIOS
KITELOOP ISLAND
‫ مكياج‬,)‫(رأس سدر‬
SHARIFF TANYOUS

‫فستان‬
‫وكورسيه من‬
ELISABETTA
FRANCHI
 ‫مهمــا كانــت الظــروف السياســية‬ ‫عنــي‪ .‬يســمّ ون أنفســهم «الدرّاوييــن»‪،‬‬
‫واالقتصاديــة ســيئة‪ .‬والــدور الــذي‬ ‫ووجودهــم يرفــع معنوياتــي ويدفعنــي‬
‫أقصــده هــو دوري فــي مسلســل‬ ‫إلــى تقديــم المزيــد»‪.‬‬
‫«ســجن النســاء» الــذي أشــاد بــه‬ ‫انطلــق أخيــراً عــرض مسلســل جديــد‬
‫ومثــل نقلــة فــي مســيرتي‬ ‫الن ّقــاد ّ‬ ‫بعنــوان «الشــارع اللــي ورانــا» تــؤدي درة‬
‫ّ‬
‫المهنيــة‪ .‬هــو دور مركــب وصعــب‬ ‫فيــه دور البطولــة‪ ،‬فمــا الــذي يضيفــه هــذا‬
‫ومهــمّ ‪ .‬وثمــة أيضــاً أدوار أحبهــا‬ ‫الــدور الجديــد إلــى مســيرتها؟ «لهــذا‬
‫النــاس وعبّــروا عــن تعلّقهــم بهــا‬ ‫العمــل مكانــة مميــزة فــي مســيرتي‪،‬‬
‫مثــل دور ســماح فــي مسلســل‬ ‫ألنــه دور بطولــة مطلقــة‪ .‬والقصــة فريــدة‬
‫«العار»‪ .‬لقد ح ّقق «ســجن النســاء»‬ ‫ومختلفــة‪ ،‬تــدور تفاصيلهــا حــول ناديــة‬
‫المعادلــة الصعبــة التــي تكلّمنــا عنهــا‪،‬‬ ‫الشــخصية التــي أؤديهــا‪ .‬وهــي مــن نــوع‬
‫أحبــه الجمهــور والن ّقــاد‪ ،‬النخبــة‬ ‫«الســايكو درامــا» المعتمــد علــى التحليــل‬
‫والجماهيــر‪ .‬هــذا ال يتح ّقــق دومــاً‪.‬‬ ‫النفســي والتشــويق الرومانســي‪ .‬وأنــا‬
‫هــو مسلســل ســيصمد فــي تاريــخ‬ ‫لــم أشــأ أن أكــرّر نفســي‪ ،‬بــل أردت‬
‫الدرامــا العربيــة»‪.‬‬ ‫تقديــم عمــل مختلــف‪ ،‬وهــذا العمــل‬
‫تحكــي درّة عــن تفــوّق الدرامــا‬ ‫تحديــداً ح ّقــق لــي مــا أردتــه‪ .‬كمــا أنّ‬
‫علــى الســينما فــي العالــم العربــي‪،‬‬ ‫فستان من‬ ‫شــخصية ناديــة مــن أقــرب الشــخصيات‬
‫خصوصــاً أن صناعــة الســينما ال‬ ‫‪AHMED TALFIT‬‬ ‫إلــي»‪.‬‬
‫التــي قدّمتهــا ّ‬
‫تــزال محصــورة فــي مصــر‪« .‬الصناعة‬ ‫تفضــل‬ ‫هنــا نســأل‪ ،‬هــل يمكــن أن ّ‬
‫الســينمائية غائبــة فــي تونــس‪ ،‬وال‬ ‫الطريق الذي اخترته طويل لكنه‬ ‫ممثلــة دوراً معين ـاً بيــن أدوارهــا؟ «طبع ـاً‬
‫تفضــل الممثلــة دوراً واحــداً‪،‬‬ ‫يمكــن أن ّ‬
‫تمكــن مقارنــة عــدد األفــام المنتجــة‬
‫وعــدد الصــاالت بمــا نشــهده فــي‬ ‫طريق الفن الذي يستم ّر‬ ‫وجملــة «كل األدوار أوالدي» أصبحــت‬
‫مصــر‪ .‬نعــم ثمــة تجــارب مميــزة‪،‬‬ ‫«محــط كام»‪ .‬ثمــة دور أحبــه أكثــر مــن‬
‫ثمــة أفــام مغربيــة ولبنانيــة وفلســطينية بديعــة‪ ،‬تحقــق أحيانــاً‬ ‫مثــل محطــة مهمــة فــي حياتــي‬ ‫غيــره‪ ،‬ألننــي اســتمتعت بأدائــه وألنــه ّ‬
‫نجاح ـاً جماهيري ـاً‪ ،‬لكنهــا تق ـدّم ضمــن إطــار ســينما المؤلــف‪ .‬األفــام‬ ‫الفنيــة‪ ،‬وال يرتبــط تفضيلــي لــه بتقييمــي األخاقــي للشــخصية‪ .‬عموم ـاً‬
‫اللبنانيــة والتونســية تصــل إلــى مهرجانــات عالميــة وتص ّنــف مــن أهــم‬ ‫نحــن ال نحــب أن نذكــر دوراً معين ـاً لــم نتعلّــق بــه‪ ،‬ألن األدوار مرتبطــة‬
‫األفــام العربيــة‪ ،‬لكنهــا ال تجــذب جماهيــر عربيــة»‪ .‬أخيــراً تكشــف درّة‬ ‫بفريــق عمــل‪ .‬لكــن يجــب أن نعتــرف بــأن ثمــة أدواراً مهمــة تؤثــر فــي‬
‫أنهــا تشــعر باالنتمــاء إلــى مصــر‪« .‬أنــا فخــورة بتونــس بلــدي األول‪،‬‬ ‫رحلتنــا المهنيــة‪ ،‬حتــى نعتبرهــا أدوار حيواتنــا»‪.‬‬
‫ولمصــر فضــل علـ ّـي‪ .‬ثمــة تفاصيــل مرتبطــة بثقافــة بلــدي أشــتاق إليهــا‬ ‫المفضــل بيــن أدوارهــا‪ ،‬هــو دور‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫هــذا الــدور الــذي تنتخبــه درّة‬
‫كطريقــة المــزاح‪ ،‬كمــا أشــتاق إلــى الطبيعــة فــي تونــس‪ .‬لكــن‬ ‫تلفزيونــي‪« .‬ألنّ التلفزيــون فــي وطننــا العربــي مؤثــر أكثــر مــن‬
‫حياتي أصبحت هنا‪ ،‬في مصر» ☐‬ ‫الســينما‪ .‬جمهــور التلفزيــون أوســع وأكبــر‪ ،‬فالشاشــة الفضيــة متاحة‬

‫من اليمين درّة ترتدي‬

‫«جمبسوت» من عامة سلطانة‬
‫خال حفلة اختتام مهرجان‬
‫الجونة السينمائي‪ .‬ارتدت فستاناً‬
‫أبيض من تصميم عاء نجد لحضور‬
‫حفلة قنوات النيل المتخصّ صة‪ .‬بعد‬
‫تسلّمها جائزة أفضل ممثلة عن‬
‫دورها في فيلم «موالنا» خال‬
‫حفلة تكريم قناة نايل سينما‬
‫للنجوم‪ .‬اختارت فستاناً من‬
‫تصميم رامي قاضي لحفلة اختتام‬
‫مهرجان القاهرة السينمائي‪.‬‬

‫‪40‬‬
‫كنزة خاصة بدرّة‬
‫فحســب هــو فنــان مغمــور ال يصــل إلــى النــاس‪ .‬ولــن يعــرف النجــاح‬
‫الحقيقــي َمــن يقـدّم تفاهــات غيــر محتــرم المتل ّقيــن‪ .‬أقـدّم أفامـاً جيــدة‬
‫وجذابــة‪ ،‬بعضهــا تجــاري‪ ،‬لكنهــا فــي الوقــت نفســه أفــام ذات قيمــة‪.‬‬
‫أمــا عــن ذوقــي الشــخصي‪ ،‬فأنــا أحــب األفــام األوروبيــة وأتابــع تجــارب‬
‫مختلفــة‪ ،‬خصوص ـاً فــي المهرجانــات‪ .‬لكــن أحيان ـاً يحلــو لنــا أن نشــاهد‬
‫فيلمـاً للتســلية فقــط‪ ،‬للترفيــه‪ ،‬نحــن نحتــاج إلــى الهــروب إلــى الفــن»‪.‬‬
‫«الشــهرة لــم تكــن يوم ـاً هدفــي» تؤكــد درّة‪« .‬الفــن كان ومــازال‬
‫هدفــي‪ ،‬والشــهرة ترافــق النجــاح الفنــي‪ .‬وأنــا ســعيت إلــى أن أكــون‬
‫ناجحــة ولــم أســعَ إلــى أن أكــون مشــهورة»‪ .‬إال أنّ درّة التــي ال‬
‫تســعى إلــى الشــهرة جذبــت ماييــن المتابعيــن علــى منصّ ــات التواصــل‬
‫االجتماعــي‪« .‬أتواصــل مــع جمهــوري‪ ،‬وأحــاول قــدر اإلمــكان أن أر ّد‬
‫علــى الجميــع‪ .‬أتابــع آراءهــم فــي أعمالــي‪ ،‬وهــم يتل ّقــون منــي مباشــرة‬
‫الخبــر الصحيــح‪ .‬هــم محبــون حقيقيــون‪ ،‬جيــش مســتع ّد للدفــاع‬
‫ليســت مهووســة بالتخطيــط لــكل خطــوة تخطوهــا‪« .‬فــي عالــم‬
‫التمثيــل يصعــب التخطيــط‪ ،‬فالنجــاح يعتمــد أيضــاً علــى األدوار التــي‬
‫تعــرض علـ ّـي‪ .‬وأحيان ـاً تولّــد مصادفــة مشــروعاً جديــداً‪ ،‬وأحيان ـاً أخــرى‬
‫يتوقــف العمــل فــي مشــروع بعــد التجهيــز لــه‪ .‬يمكــن أن أضــع العناوين‬
‫العريضــة فقــط‪ .‬لكــنّ أمــوراً كثيــرة تحــدث بالمصادفــة‪ .‬وأنــا أحــاول أن‬
‫أختــار بتــأنٍّ ‪ ،‬لكننــي لســت ّ‬
‫مخططــة»‪.‬‬
‫بيــن النجــاح التجــاري واالنتمــاء إلــى ذاكرة الفــن‪ ،‬أي دور تختــار درّة؟‬
‫«المعادلــة الصحيحــة‪ ،‬وهــي المعادلــة الصعبــة التــي تجمــع بيــن النجــاح‬
‫التجــاري والمســتوى الفنــي الراقــي‪ .‬أحــبّ الفيلــم ذا القيمــة الفنيــة والذي‬
‫يبقــى فــي ذاكــرة الفــن لكــن يجــب أن يســتقطب الجمهــور‪ ،‬فالســينما‬
‫مــن دون مشــاهدين ليســت ســينما‪ .‬لمــن نقــدّم الفيلــم؟ يجــب أن‬
‫يقبــل عليــه النــاس وأن يفهمــوه‪ .‬وليــس الفيلــم التجــاري فيلم ـاً تافه ـاً‬
‫بالضــرورة‪ .‬كمــا أنّ الفنــان المرتبــط بأفــام تعــرض فــي المهرجانــات‬
 ‫أؤمــن بفكرة‬
‫األيقونــة‪ ،‬أن تترك‬
‫الممثلــة بصمتهــا الفنيــة‬
‫وتصنــع إرثهــا الفني‬
‫تعتــرف درّة بــأنّ البدايــة أحيانــاً تفــرض تنــازالت‪،‬‬
‫لكنهــا ليســت جوهريــة‪« .‬فــي البدايــة خصوصاً‪ ،‬يســعى‬
‫الفنــان إلــى االنتشــار والشــهرة‪ ،‬فلــن أقــول إنّ كل‬
‫أدواري كانــت رائعــة‪ .‬بعضهــا لــم يكــن عظيم ـاً لكننــي‬
‫قدّمتهــا ألثبــت وجــودي‪ .‬وطبعــاً هنــاك حــ ّد أدنــى ال‬
‫أق ـدّم مــا يقـ ّـل عنــه‪ .‬أضــع حــدوداً لنفســي كــي أبقــى‬
‫فــي مكانــة معينــة ألننــي لــو خســرتها ســأصبح‬
‫حيــث لــم أطمــح إلــى أن أكــون‪ ،‬وســتكون صورتــي‬
‫مختلفــة‪ .‬يجــب أن أكــون مقتنعــة بالــدور وإن لــم يكــن‬
‫دوراً عظيم ـاً‪ ،‬وأال أخجــل منــه‪ .‬أنــا أصنــع هويــة فنيــة‪.‬‬
‫والطريــق الــذي اخترتــه هــو الطريــق الطويــل‪ ،‬لكنــه‬
‫طريــق الفــن الــذي يســتمرّ»‪.‬‬
‫أعلى درّة في مشهد من فيلم «كدبة كل يوم»‪ .‬لقطة من الفيلم الكوميدي‬
‫خططــت درّة للســير علــى طريــق الفــن‪ ،‬لكنهــا‬
‫إحســاس داخلــي قـرّب الصبيــة التونســية مــن الثقافــة المصريــة‪ .‬خــال‬
‫ُ‬
‫موهبتهــا الناميــة عاق َتهــا بالســينما المصريــة‪ .‬تقــول‬ ‫رســخت‬ ‫نشــأتها ّ‬
‫الممثلــة التونســية درّة التــي عرفــت الشــهرة فــي مصــر حيــث قطفــت‬
‫ثمــار اجتهادهــا وتوقهــا إلــى اإلبــداع «أحــب الســينما المصريــة منــذ أيــام‬
‫الطفولــة‪ .‬منــذ صغــري أتابعهــا‪ ،‬وكنــت أشــعر بأننــي ســأكون وجه ـاً‬
‫مــن وجوههــا‪ .‬هــو إحســاس داخلــي نمــا وتكــرّس ودفعنــي إلــى‬
‫التفكيــر فــي المغــادرة إلــى القاهــرة‪ .‬لحظــة وصلــت أحسســت بأننــي‬
‫أعــرف مصــر منــذ زمــن بعيــد‪ ،‬لــم أواجــه صعوبــة مرتبطــة باللغــة أو‬
‫باالندمــاج فــي البلــد‪ .‬انتابنــي هــذا الشــعور بأننــي عشــت هنــا مــن قبــل‪،‬‬
‫ورأيــت المشــاهد فــي الماضــي ( ‪ ،)Déjà Vu‬ربمــا يعــود ذلــك إلــى الثقافــة‬
‫التــي تشـرّبتها مــن خــال األفــام والمسلســات واألغانــي والروايــات‪،‬‬
‫فقــد قــرأت بنهــم أعمــال نجيــب محفــوظ وإحســان عبــد القــدوس»‪.‬‬
‫درّة التــي يتــأأل الشــغب فــي عينيهــا طفلــ ٌة ناضجــة‪« .‬تلتقــي ّ‬
‫فــي‬
‫الشــخصيتان‪ ،‬الطفلــة التــي ال تكبــر‪ ،‬والفنانــة‬
‫الناضجــة والمتزنــة‪ .‬قبــل اهتمامــي بالمســرح‬
‫شــاركت فــي عــروض أزيــاء‪ ،‬كنــت ومــا زلــت‬
‫أحــب الموضــة‪ ،‬لكننــي لــم أفكــر يومــاً فــي أن‬
‫أكتفــي بعــرض األزيــاء‪ .‬رأيــت نفســي فــي‬
‫الفــن‪ ،‬فــي مجــال أسـ ّ‬
‫ـتغل فيــه ثقافتــي وأتطـوّر‬
‫وأتعلّــم وأنمّ ــي قدراتــي‪ .‬لــذا درســت العلــوم‬
‫السياســية واتجهــت إلــى المســرح‪ .‬تدرّبــت‬
‫فــي ورش مســرحية‪ ،‬ثــم عملــت مــع فــرق‬
‫مختلفــة وشــاركت فــي مســرحيات جديــة مــع‬
‫مخرجيــن مســرحيين أمثــال فاضــل الجعايبــي‬
‫وتوفيق الجبالي»‪.‬‬
‫قدّمــت درّة أعمــا ًال تلفزيونيــة ومســرحية‬
‫فــي تونــس‪ ،‬لكــنّ «أهــم أعمــال مســيرتي‬
‫الفنيــة ح ّققتهــا فــي مصــر»‪ .‬وتقــول إنهــا عرفــت‬
‫الشــهرة بعــد مــدة قصيــرة مــن وصولهــا‬
‫إلــى القاهــرة قبــل نحــو ‪ ١١‬عامــاً‪ ،‬لكــن «كــي‬
‫أســتطيع أن أح ّقــق نفســي كمــا آمــل وأريــد‪،‬‬
‫احتجــت إلــى وقــت أطــول‪ .‬أنــا مؤمنــة بمقولــة إن‬
‫اســتمرار النجــاح أصعــب مــن الوصــول إليــه‪ .‬فــي‬
‫البدايــة تواجهيــن العراقيــل وتريديــن أن تثبتــي‬
‫نفســك‪ ،‬تتعبيــن وتضحيــن‪ ،‬لكــن االســتمرار‬
‫ليــس ســه ًا‪ .‬لــذا أنــا معجبــة بالنجــوم والنجمــات‬
‫الذيــن يحافظــون علــى نجاحهــم خــال عقــود‬
‫ويجـدّدون أنفســهم مثــل يســرا وميرفــت أمين‬
‫اللتيــن اســتطاعتا الحفــاظ علــى مكانتيهمــا‪ .‬وفي‬
‫العالــم ثمــة نجمــات أعتبرهــن نمــاذج عليــا مثــل‬
‫ميريــل ســتريب وجوليــا روبرتــس ومونيــكا‬
‫بلوتشــي‪ .‬هــنّ أيقونــات‪ .‬أؤمــن بفكــرة األيقونــة‪،‬‬
‫وهــي تعنــي أنّ هــذه الممثلــة تركــت بصمــة‪ ،‬وال‬
‫«عنتر ابن ابن ابن ابن شداد»‪ .‬من فيلم «تصبح على خير»‬ ‫أتكلّــم عــن اإليــرادات‪ ،‬أقصــد البصمــة الفنيــة»‪.‬‬
‫‪38‬‬
VIVIENNE ‫معطف من‬
‫ بنطلون‬WESTWOOD
PRADA ‫من‬
‫اختارت الممثلة التونسية‬
‫د ّرة ز ّروق السير في‬
‫طريق الفن الطويل‪ ،‬ذلك‬
‫الذي يوصل إلى النجاح‬
‫الراسخ والمستم ّر‪.‬‬
‫اجتهدت د ّرة ونالت ثمار‬
‫مثابرتها وموهبتها‪ ،‬ها هي‬
‫تق ّدم دور البطولة األولى‬
‫في عمل درامي جديد‬
‫‪HALA KAWSARANI‬‬ ‫بقلم‬
‫تصوير ‪ABDALLAH SABRY‬‬

‫‪36‬‬
‫جمـال‪Beauty‬‬

‫إليــكِ ثالثة أنواع من‬

‫الصيــام المتقطع‬
‫المجلــة األمريكيــة للتغذيــة اإلكلينيكيــة ذي أمريــكان‬ ‫طريقة ‪8/16‬‬ ‫المتقطــع‪ .‬وهــي ليســت مجــرد حميــة تقليديــة‪ ،‬بــل نظامـاً غذائيـاً قــد يغ ّيــر نمط‬
‫ّ‬
‫جورنــال أوف كلينيــكال نيوتريشــن بيــن هــذه الحميــة‬ ‫تعتمد على الصيام لمدة ‪ 16‬ساعة –‬ ‫كل مــن بيونســيه والعارضــة ميرانــدا كيــر‪.‬‬ ‫حياتــكِ – وتعتمــده ٌ‬
‫والمســاعدة علــى الوقايــة مــن األمــراض المزمنــة‪ ،‬بمــا‬ ‫ويُسمح خاللها فقط بشرب الماء‪،‬‬ ‫وعــن هــذه الحميــة الغذائيــة‪ ،‬تقــول كاتارينــا إلبراخــت‪ ،‬المؤسســة ومديــرة‬
‫فــي ذلــك أمــراض القلــب والســكري مــن النــوع الثانــي‪.‬‬ ‫والقهوة السادة‪ ،‬وأنواع الشاي‬ ‫الطــب الســريري فــي مركــز بيونــد نيوتريشــن لخدمات الصحــة والعافيــة‪« :‬مع‬
‫وبعد‬ ‫الخالية من السعرات الحرارية‪.‬‬
‫المتقطــع اختالفـاً كبيــراً عــن الحميــة‬
‫ّ‬ ‫يختلــف الصيــام‬ ‫المتقطــع‪ ،‬تتن ّقليــن بيــن فتــرات األكل وفتــرات الصيــام‪ .‬وتختلــف مــدة‬‫ّ‬ ‫الصيــام‬
‫انتهاء هذه المدة‪ ،‬تناولي الطعام خالل‬
‫الخاصــة بخفــض اســتهالك الســعرات الحراريــة‪.‬‬ ‫الساعاتالثمانيالمتبقية‪،‬ثماِبدئي‬ ‫هــذه الفتــرات حســب نــوع الصيــام الــذي تختارينــه»‪ .‬ويضــع هــذا المركــز الــذي‬
‫وعلــى الرغــم مــن أنهمــا يقيّــدان تنــاول الطعــام‪ ،‬إال‬ ‫هذه العملية من جديد‪ .‬وهنالك كثير من‬ ‫يتخــذ مــن دبــي مقــراً لــه لعمالئــه خططـاً مصممــة حســب االحتياجــات الخاصــة‬
‫المتقطــع لــن تضطــري إلــى حســاب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أنــكِ مــع الصيــام‬ ‫الناس يصومون بدءاًمن الساعة الثامنة‬ ‫لــكل فــرد‪ ،‬مــن الصيــام لمــدة ‪ 16‬ســاعة متواليــة خــالل ‪ 24‬ســاعة‪ ،‬إلــى تنــاول‬
‫عــدد الســعرات الحراريــة‪ .‬ويمكــن لهــذه الطريقــة فــي‬ ‫مسا ًء حتى ظهر اليوم التالي‪.‬‬ ‫الطعــام كالمعتــاد لمــدة خمســة أيــام فــي األســبوع مــع الحــد مــن تنــاول‬
‫الصيــام أن تزيــد اإلنســولين فــي الجســم‪ ،‬مــا يســاعد‬ ‫الســعرات الحراريــة خــالل اليوميــن المتبقييــن‪.‬‬
‫علــى تنظيــم مســتويات الســكر فــي الــدم‪ ،‬ويــؤدي‬ ‫حمية ‪5:2‬‬ ‫الصيــام فــي حــد ذاتــه ليس ممارســة جديــدة‪ ،‬فقد ظهر منذ مئات الســنين‪.‬‬
‫تتيح لكِ تناول الطعام واتباع نظامكِ‬
‫بمــرور الوقــت إلــى الســيطرة على اإلحســاس بالجوع‪.‬‬ ‫الغذائي المعتاد لمدة خمسة أيام في‬ ‫وعنــه تقــول الدكتــورة النــال دان‪ ،‬التــي تعمــل لــدى مركــز شــيرون كلينيــك‬
‫وهــو أمــر يســهّ ل اتبــاع هــذه الحميــة الغذائيــة علــى‬ ‫األسبوع‪.‬وخاللاليومينالمتبقيين‪،‬‬ ‫فــي دبــي‪« :‬يعـ ّد الصيــام منهجـاً مارســته مختلــف الثقافــات والجماعــات حــول‬
‫المســتويين البدنــي والنفســي‪.‬‬ ‫يقتصراستهالككِ للسعراتالحرارية‬ ‫العالــم نظــراً لفوائــده الصحيــة والروحيــة»‪ .‬ويجســد الصيــام معانــي التضحيــة‪،‬‬
‫يعتمــد اختيــار الطريقــة الصحيحــة للصيــام علــى الفــرد‬ ‫على ما بين ‪ 500‬إلى ‪ 600‬سعرة حرارية‬ ‫والنقــاء‪ ،‬وجــالء البصيــرة‪ ،‬ويعمــل علــى بنــاء الجســم وتطهيــره‪ .‬فحيــن يتناول‬
‫نفســه‪ .‬وتشــير الدكتورة دان‪« :‬ال يتعلّق األمر بطريقة‬ ‫في اليوم الواحد‪ .‬ويمكنكِ اختيار أي‬ ‫اإلنســان الطعــام‪ ،‬يدخــل الجســم مرحلــة البنــاء‪ .‬وقــد تــؤدي هــذه المرحلــة‬
‫يومين لممارسة هذا النوع من الصيام‪،‬‬
‫تعتبرينهــا صحيحــة‪ ،‬لكــن بمــدى مالءمة طريقــة الصيام‬ ‫البنائيــة إلــى اإلحســاس بالخمــول والكســل – تذكــري الخمــول الــذي ينتابــكِ‬
‫طالماحرصتِ علىفصلهماوتخصيص‬ ‫عـ ً‬
‫لــكل إنســان»‪ .‬وليــس ثمــة طريقــة واحــدة تصلــح‬ ‫يومواحدبينهمالتناولطعامكِ المعتاد‪.‬‬ ‫ـادة بعــد تنــاول الغــداء‪ .‬وعندمــا يصــوم اإلنســان ألكثــر مــن ســت ســاعات‪،‬‬
‫للجميــع‪ .‬ومثــل أي حميــة غذائيــة أخــرى‪ ،‬قــد تســتجيب‬ ‫تبــدأ مرحلــة التطهيــر‪ ،‬ويدخــل الجســم خاللهــا فــي حالــة الهــدم والتقويــض‪.‬‬
‫ســيدة مــا لطريقــة صيــام أفضــل مــن غيرهــا‪ .‬ولحســن‬ ‫طعام‪-‬راحة‪-‬طعام‬ ‫وخــالل هــذه الفتــرة‪ ،‬يتــم تدميــر الخاليــا التالفــة ويبــدأ الجســم فــي إصــالح‬
‫ّ‬
‫المتقطــع يمكنكِ‬ ‫الحــظ‪ ،‬توجــد عــدة أنمــاط مــن الصيــام‬ ‫ساعة‬ ‫يعتمد على الصيام لمدة‪24‬‬ ‫نفســه‪ .‬وأثنــاء هــذه العمليــة‪ ،‬يقـ ّـل اإلحســاس بااللتهــاب‪ ،‬وينشــط الجهــاز‬
‫االختيــار مــن بينهــا‪ ،‬منهــا الصيــام علــى مــدار ‪ 24‬ســاعة‬ ‫مع‬ ‫‪،‬‬‫ً‬ ‫ا‬ ‫أسبوعي‬ ‫متواصلة‪ ،‬مرة أو مرتين‬ ‫المناعــي‪ ،‬وتتحســن وظائــف الدمــاغ‪.‬‬
‫أما‬ ‫والقهوة‪.‬‬ ‫شرب الماء‪ ،‬والشاي‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬
‫مــرة أو مرتيــن أســبوعياً‪ ،‬أو تنــاول الطعــام خــالل إطــار‬ ‫يعكــف العلمــاء علــى دراســة فوائــد الصيــام المتقطــع منــذ ثالثينيــات القــرن‬
‫باقي األيام‪ ،‬فيمكنكِ تناول ما شئت من‬
‫زمنــي محــدد‪ .‬وتعــد طريقــة ‪ ،8/16‬أي الصيــام لمــدة‬ ‫طعام‪ ،‬لكن باعتدال‪ .‬واِحرصي على عدم‬ ‫الماضــي‪ .‬وقــد اكتشــف عالِــم التغذيــة فــي جامعــة كورنيــل‪ ،‬كليــڤ مــكاي‪ ،‬أن‬
‫ثمــان‬
‫ِ‬ ‫‪ 16‬ســاعة متواصلــة ثــم تنــاول الطعــام خــالل‬ ‫الصوميومينمتتابعين‪.‬‬ ‫خفــض اســتهالك الفئــران للطعــام بنســبة مــن ‪ %30‬إلــى ‪ %40‬أدى إلــى زيــادة‬
‫ســاعات‪ ،‬أكثرهــا شــعبية‪ .‬وقــد ابتكرهــا خبيــر التغذيــة‬ ‫أعمارهــا بنســبة بلغــت الثلــث أو أكثــر‪ .‬وفــي عــام ‪ ،1956‬أُجــري بحــث فــي‬
‫والمــدرب الشــخصي مارتــن بيركهــان‪ ،‬ويشــرح هــذه‬ ‫إســبانيا علــى مجموعــة مــن الرجــال والنســاء المســنين شــمل ‪ 120‬شــخصاً‪،‬‬
‫الطريقــة قائــ ًال‪« :‬تخلــي عــن وجبــة اإلفطــار‪ ،‬وتناولــي‬ ‫صــام نصفهــم أليــام متناوبــة علــى مــدار ثــالث ســنوات‪ .‬وكشــف البحــث أن ‪60‬‬
‫غــداءكِ فــي منتصــف النهــار‪ ،‬واِجعلــي آخــر وجبــة لــكِ الســاعة ‪ 8‬أو ‪ 9‬مســاءً‪ .‬ثم‬ ‫شــخصاً مــن الصائميــن قضــوا أياماً في المستشــفيات بلــغ إجمالي عددهــا ‪123‬‬
‫تابعــي فــي اليــوم التالــي الطريقــة نفســها‪ .‬وال ينبغــي أن تكــون أكثــر صعوبــة‬ ‫يومـاً وتوفــي منهــم ‪ 6‬أشــخاص‪ ،‬فيمــا قضــى النصــف اآلخــر الذيــن لــم يصومــوا‬
‫ّ‬
‫المتقطع زيــادة االنتاجية‬ ‫مــن ذلــك»‪ .‬ويشــير بيركهان‪« :‬تشــمل نتائج الصيــام‬ ‫وعددهــم ‪ 60‬شــخصاً ‪ 219‬يوم ـاً فــي المستشــفيات وتوفــي منهــم ‪.13‬‬
‫والقــدرة علــى التركيــز‪ ،‬والتخلــص مــن الدهــون‪ ،‬وتحســن الصحــة المتعلقــة‬ ‫كشــف بحث ُنشــر في مجلة ذا جورنال أوف ترانسليشــيونال ميديســن‪،‬‬
‫بمشــاكل الدهــون‪ .‬وســتحصلين علــى هــذه النتائــج بعــد مــرور مــا بيــن بضعــة‬ ‫ّ‬
‫المتقطــع لمــدة ثمانيــة‬ ‫ســنة ‪ ،2016‬عــن أن األفــراد الذيــن مارســوا الصيــام‬
‫أيــام إلــى أســبوعين»‪ .‬وعلــى الرغــم مــن ذلــك‪ ،‬يشــدد بيركهــان علــى أهميــة‬ ‫أســابيع انخفــض مســتوى الدهــون فــي أجســامهم أكثــر مــن أولئــك الذيــن‬
‫المحافظــة علــى نظــام غذائــي متــوازن وممارســة الرياضــة بانتظــام‪.‬‬ ‫لــم يفعلــوا ذلــك‪ .‬وفــي عــام ‪ ،2017‬الحظــت الجمعيــة العالميــة للتغذيــة الرياضيــة‬
‫ورغــم هــذه الوعــود المُ ب َّشــرة‪ ،‬ثمــة بعــض الشــكوك؛ فــدون إجــراء‬ ‫فوائــد الصيــام فــي تحســين شــكل الجســم‪ ،‬وخفــض مســتوى الدهــون‪،‬‬
‫أبحــاث منظمــة علــى البشــر ال يمكــن الوصــول إلــى نتائــج واضحــة تمامـاً لهــذا‬ ‫وزيــادة نحافــة الجســم‪ .‬كمــا تب ّيــن االرتبــاط بيــن الوقايــة مــن األمــراض وتأثير‬
‫ّ‬
‫المتقطــع‬ ‫النــوع مــن الحميــات الغذائيــة‪ .‬وتن ـوّه إلبراخــت‪« :‬ال يُوصــى بالصيــام‬ ‫العــالج وبيــن هــذه الحميــة الغذائية‪ .‬وتشــرح الدكتــورة دان‪« :‬أظهــرت األبحاث‬
‫للحوامــل واألطفــال واألشــخاص المصابيــن بــداء الســكري‪ .‬فغالبـاً‪ ،‬ال يتنــاول‬ ‫المتقطــع يســاعد علــى عــالج مقاوَمــة الخاليــا لهرمــون‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األوليــة أن الصيــام‬
‫األفــراد الذيــن يتبعــون هــذه الحميــة جميــع العناصــر الغذائيــة التــي تحتاجهــا‬ ‫اإلنســولين‪ ،‬وتقليــل االلتهــاب‪ ،‬وتســريع فقــدان الــوزن – وتحديــداً مــن خــالل‬
‫أجســامهم»‪ .‬وهــو مــا قــد يــؤدي إلــى انهيــار العضــالت فيمــا يدخــل الجســم‬ ‫حــرق الدهــون‪ ،‬وتحســين الهرمونــات‪ ،‬وخفــض خطــر اإلصابــة باألمــراض‬
‫فــي حالــة جــوع شــديد‪ .‬وأخيــراً تنصــح إلبراخــت‪« :‬اِلجئــي إلــى اختصاصــي‬ ‫المزمنــة»‪ .‬كمــا يربــط مــارك ماتســون‪ ،‬أحــد الباحثيــن فــي المعهــد القومــي‬
‫الصــورة‪CNI ARCHIVE :‬‬

‫حميــات غذائيــة م َُؤهــل أو خبيــر تغذيــة لتجنــب أضــرار نقــص العناصــر الغذائيــة‬ ‫المتقطــع وانخفــاض خطــر اإلصابــة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للشــيخوخة فــي أمريــكا‪ ،‬بيــن الصيــام‬
‫المهمة في طعامكِ »‪☐ .‬‬ ‫بمــرض تدهــور القــدرات العقليــة وفقــدان الذاكــرة‪ .‬ومنــذ ‪ 10‬ســنوات‪ ،‬ربطــت‬

‫‪35‬‬
‫ال تتوقــف األبحــاث فــي عالــم الصحــة والعافيــة عــن التوســع – تمامــاً كمــا‬ ‫حميات غذائية كثيرة تلقى إقبا ًال ثم تختفي‪ ،‬ولكن‬
‫يحــدث لخصورنــا وبطوننــا‪ .‬وبمــا أننــا نعيــش فــي عصــر يشــعر فيــه كثيــر مــن‬
‫الموظفيــن الجالســين علــى مكاتبهــم لســاعات طويلــة بالخمــول والكســل‬ ‫المتقطع الذي كشفت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ليس من بينها الصيام‬
‫‪-‬ألنهــم يتناولــون علــى تلــك المكاتــب اإلفطــار والغــداء وأحيانـاً العشــاء‪ -‬فنحــن‬ ‫حياتك‬
‫ِ‬ ‫األبحاث عن قدرته على تغيير نمط‬
‫علــى أتــم االســتعداد لتجربــة أي شــيء‪ ،‬بــدءاً مــن الحميــات الغذائيــة القاســية‬
‫إلــى تنــاول العصائــر إلزالــة الســموم مــن الجســم كــي نخســر بعــض‬ ‫بقلم ‪ALEXANDRA VENISON‬‬
‫الكيلوغرامــات الزائــدة ونحصــل علــى دفقــة إضافيــة مــن الطاقــة والنشــاط‪ .‬وما‬
‫الجديــد فــي ذلــك؟ فــي اآلونــة األخيــرة ظهرت حميــة يطلق عليها اســم الصيام‬
‫أﺳﻠﻮب ‪Style‬‬

‫ﻫﻞ ﺗﺘﻌ ّﻠﻘﻴﻦ ﺑﺎﻷﻣﻜﻨﺔ؟ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ أن‬

‫أﺷﻌﺮ ﺑﺎﻟﺤﻨﻴﻦ إﻟﻰ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻷﻣﻜﻨﺔ‬
‫ﻟﻜﻨﻨﻲ ﻻ أﺗﻌﻠّﻖ ﺑﻬﺎ˜‬
‫ﺗﻔﻀﻠﻴﻦ ﻟﺘﻤﻀﻴﺔ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أي وﺟﻬﺔ‬
‫اﻹﺟﺎزة؟ أي ﻣﻜﺎن إذا ﻛﻨﺖ أﻗﺼﺪه‬
‫ﻣﻊ ﻣﻦَ أﺣﺒﻬﻢ˜‬
‫ﻣﺎ اﻟﺬي ﺗﺤﻮﻳﻪ ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺘﻚ ﻟﻠﺴﻔﺮ‬
‫ﺑﻬﺪف اﻟﻌﻤﻞ؟ أﺣﺎول أن أﺳﺎﻓﺮ‬
‫ﻣﻦ دون أن أﺛﻘﻞ ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺘﻲ˜ أﺣﺮص‬
‫أﻏﺎن ﺟﺪﻳﺪة‬
‫ﻋﻠﻰ أن أﺳﺘﻤﻊ إﻟﻰ ٍ‬
‫ﻋﺒﺮ ﻫﺎﺗﻔﻲ‪ ،‬وﻋﻠﻰ أن ﻳﺮاﻓﻘﻨﻲ ﻛﺘﺎب ﺟﻴﺪ ودﻓﺘﺮ‬
‫اﻟﺮﺳﻢ اﻟﺨﺎص ﺑﻲ اﻟﺬي أﺣﻔﻈﻪ ﻣﻊ ﺟﻮاز اﻟﺴﻔﺮ‬
‫واﻟﻤﻔﺎﺗﻴﺢ واﻟﻤﺤﻔﻈﺔ˜‬
‫ً‬
‫أي ﻛﺘﺎب ﺗﻘﺮﺋﻴﻦ اﻵن؟ ﻏﺮﻗﺖ أﺧﻴﺮا ﻓﻲ ﻗﺮاءة‬
‫ﻛﺘﺎب ﺑﻌﻨﻮان ‪The Brain’s Way of Healing – Stories‬‬
‫‪of Remarkable Recoveries and Discoveries‬‬
‫ﻟﻨﻮرﻣﺎن دوﻳﺪج˜‬
‫ﻣَﻦ ﺑﻴﻦ ﻣﺼﻤّ ﻤﻲ اﻷزﻳﺎء ﺗﻔﻀﻠﻴﻦ؟ ﺗﺘﻐﻴّﺮ أﺳﻤﺎء‬
‫أﻓﻀﻠﻬﻢ‪ ،‬ﻟﻜﻦ ﻳﺒﻘﻰ اﺳﻢ ﺳﻴﻤﻮن‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺼﻤّ ﻤﻴﻦ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ّ‬
‫روﺷﺎ ﺛﺎﺑﺘﺎً˜ وأﻗﺪّر اﻵن ﺗﺼﺎﻣﻴﻢ دﻳﻮن ﻟﻲ وﺟﻮاﻛﻮﻣﻮس‬
‫وﺑﺮﻳﻦ ﻣﻦ ﺛﻮرﻧﺘﻮن ﺑﺮﻳﻐﺎزي وﻟﻮﻳﺰا ﺑﺎرﺑﻮرﻳﺎن˜‬
‫ﺗﻔﻀﻠﻴﻨﻬﺎ؟ أﺣﺐ اﻟﺨﺪود‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ ﺻﻴﺤﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﺎل اﻟﺘﻲ ّ‬
‫اﻟﻤﺤﻤﺮّة واﻟﺸﻔﺎه اﻟﻤﻠﻮّﻧﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻮردي اﻟﻨﺎﻋﻢ˜ ﻟﻠﺤﺼﻮل‬
‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻹﻃﻼﻟﺔ أﻟﺠﺄ إﻟﻰ أﺣﻤﺮ اﻟﺸﻔﺎه ﻣﻦ ‪˜M.A.C‬‬ ‫اﺳﺘﺜﻤﺎر اﻟﻤﻮﻫﺒﺔ‬
‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ اﻟﺬﻛﺮى اﻷﻗﺮب إﻟﻰ ﻗﻠﺒﻚ؟ اﻻﺳﺘﺮﺧﺎء ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﺼﻤﻤﺔ أزﻳﺎء ﺷﺎﺑﺔ‬
‫ﺗﻴﻤﻲ ﺣﺎﻳﻚ ّ‬
‫اﻟﺒﻴﺖ ﺑﻌﺪ اﻟﻮﺻﻮل ﻣﻦ رﺣﻠﺔ ﺳﻔﺮ ﻃﻮﻳﻠﺔ˜‬ ‫اﺳﺘﺜﻤﺮت ﻣﻮﻫﺒﺘﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺮﺳﻢ‬
‫أي ﺑﻠﺪ أو ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﺗﺤﺒﻴﻦ أن ﺗﺰوري ﺑﺎﺳﺘﻤﺮار‬
‫ﻛﻞ ﻣﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻳﺠﺬﺑﻨﻲ‪ ،‬اﻟﻄﻌﺎم وأﻫﻠﻬﺎ‬ ‫وﻟﻤﺎذا؟ إﻳﻄﺎﻟﻴﺎ‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫وﺣﺒﻬﺎ ﻟﻠﻤﻮﺿﺔ‪ ،‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺷﻜﻠّﺖ ﻣﺤﻮر‬
‫واﻟﺜﺮاء اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ‪ ،‬اﻟﺮﺣﻠﺔ إﻟﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﻤﺘﻌﺔ دوﻣ ﺎً˜‬ ‫ّ‬
‫ﻟﺘﺸﻖ‬ ‫دراﺳﺘﻬﺎ اﻷﻛﺎدﻳﻤﻴﺔ‪،‬‬
‫اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻞ¡ »ﻻ دوﻟﺘﺸﻲ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﺧﺘﺎري ﻓﻴﻠﻤﻚ اﻟﺴﻴﻨﻤﺎﺋﻲ‬ ‫ﻃﺮﻳﻘﻬﺎ ﻧﺤﻮ اﻻﺳﺘﻘﻼﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﻬﻨﻴﺔ‬
‫ﻓﻴﺘﺎ« ﻟﻔﻴﺪﻳﺮﻳﻜﻮ ﻓﻴﻠﻴﻨﻲ˜‬
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‫أي ﻓﻴﻠﻢ ﺷﺎﻫﺪت أﺧﻴﺮا؟ »ﻋﺸﺮة أﺷﻴﺎء أﻛﺮﻫﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻮ ﻣﺼﺪر اﻹﻟﻬﺎم اﻷﺳﺎﺳﻲ ﻓﻲ ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻚ؟‬
‫ﻓﻴﻚ« أﺣﺪ ﻛﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺎت اﻟﺘﺴﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎت˜‬ ‫ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺔ اﻹﺑﺪاع‪ ،‬اﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ واﻟﺒﻨﺎء واﻟﺘﻔﻜﻴﻚ˜‬
‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻮ ﻣﺸﺮوﻋﻚ اﻟﻤﻬﻨﻲ اﻟﻤﻘﺒﻞ؟ اﻟﻌﻮدة إﻟﻰ‬ ‫أي أﺳﻠﻮب ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻮﺿﺔ ﻳﻌﻜﺲ أﺳﻠﻮﺑﻚ؟‬
‫اﻟﺮﺳﻮم اﻟﻤﻄﺒﻮﻋﺔ˜‬ ‫اﻷﺳﻠﻮب اﻟﺒﺴﻴﻂ اﻟﺬي ﺗﻌﺎﻧﻘﻪ ﻟﻤﺴﺔ‬
‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ اﻟﻘﻄﻌﺔ‬ ‫ّ‬
‫ﻣﻔﻜﻚ ﻟﻜﻦ‬ ‫ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ˜ أﺳﻠﻮﺑﻲ‬
‫اﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ أن‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﺗﺠﺎه ﻋﻘﺎرب‬
‫ﻛﻼﺳﻴﻜﻲ‪ ،‬ﻋﻤﻠﻲ ﻟﻜﻦ أﻧﺜﻮي˜‬
‫ﺗﺴﺘﻐﻨﻲ ﻋﻨﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ رﺳﻢ أﻧﺠﺰﺗﻪ‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ أﺟﻤﻞ ﻫﺪﻳﺔ ﺗﻠ ّﻘﻴﺘﻬﺎ؟ أﻋﺘﺒﺮ‬
‫ﺗﻴﻤﻲ ﺣﺎﻳﻚ˜ﻋﺎرﺿﺔ‬
‫ﺧﺰاﻧﺘﻚ؟ اﻟﻘﻄﻌﺔ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ زي ﻣﻦ ﺑﺮﻳﻦ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻔﺮ أﺟﻤﻞ اﻟﻬﺪاﻳﺎ˜‬
‫ﺛﻮرﻧﺘﻮن ﺑﺮﻳﻐﺎزي˜ ﺗﻴﻤﻲ‬
‫اﻷﺳﺎﺳﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺣﺎﻳﻚ˜‬ ‫أي ﻣﻜﺎن ﻓﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺘﻚ ﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮﻳﻨﻪ‬
‫ﺧﺰاﻧﺘﻲ ﻫﻲ اﻟ»ﺗﻲ‬ ‫ﺳﺘﺮة ﻣﻦ ﺳﻴﻤﻮن‬
‫روﺷﺎ˜ ﻣﻠﺼﻖ ﻓﻴﻠﻢ»ﻻ‬
‫ﻣﻜﺎﻧﻚ؟ ﻣﻘﻬﻰ ‪Cantina Social‬‬
‫ﺷﻴﺮت« اﻷﺑﻴﺾ˜‬ ‫دوﻟﺘﺸﻲ ﻓﻴﺘﺎ« ﻟﻔﻴﻠﻴﻨﻲ˜‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺮوت ﺣﻴﺚ اﻟﻜﻞ ﻳﺨﺪم‬
‫ﻣﺸﻬﺪ ﻃﺒﻴﻌﻲ إﻳﻄﺎﻟﻲ‬
‫ﺻﻔﻲ ﻧﻔﺴﻚ ﺑﺜﻼث‬ ‫ﺗﻌﺸﻘﻪ ﺗﻴﻤﻲ˜ أﺣﻤﺮ‬ ‫ﻧﻔﺴﻪ ﺑﻨﻔﺴﻪ‪ ،‬أﺣﺐ اﻟﺪﻳﻜﻮر‬
‫اﻟﺸﻔﺎه اﻟﻮردي اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﻲ‬
‫ﻛﻠﻤﺎت¡¡¡ ﺣﺎﻟﻤﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺬي ﺗﺴﺘﺨﺪﻣﻪ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺮﻳﺢ واﻟﻔﺴﺤﺔ اﻟﺨﺎرﺟﻴﺔ ﺣﻴﺚ‬
‫وﻣﻨ ّﻔﺬة وراﻗﺼﺔ˜‬ ‫اﻷﺿﻮاء ﺳﺎﺣﺮة˜‬

‫‪ææ‬‬
‫إﺷﺎرات اﻟﻤﺴ’’ﺘﻘﺒﻞ‬ ‫ّ‬
‫وﻣﺼﻤﻤﺔ اﻷزﻳﺎء ﺗﻴﻤﻲ ﺣﺎﻳﻚ إﺷﺎرات اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﺒﻞ ﺑﺬﻛﺎء‬ ‫ﺗﻘﺮأ اﻟﻤﻤﺜﻠﺔ ﺳﺎرة ﻋﺒﺪ اﻟﺮﺣﻤﻦ‬
‫ﻣﺴ ّﻠﺤﺘﻴﻦ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻮﻫﺒﺔ اﻟﺼﺎدﻗﺔ واﻻﺟﺘﻬﺎد اﻟﻤﺪروس‬
‫وأﺣ’’ﺲ ﺑﺄﻧ’’ﻪ ﻣﻜﺎﻧ’’ﻲ‪ ،‬ﻓﺄﺻﺤ’’ﺐ‬ ‫ّ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻔﻀ’’ﻞ ﻓ’’ﻲ اﻟﻘﺎﻫ’’ﺮة ﻫ’’ﻮ ﺟﺴ’’ﺮ‬
‫ﻣﺨﻔﻴ’’ﺔ ﻓ’’ﻲ اﻟﻘﺎﻫ’’ﺮة‪،‬‬
‫اﻟﺠﻤﻴ’’ﻊ إﻟﻴ’’ﻪ… وﻣﻜﺎﻧ’’ﻲ ّ‬
‫ﺳﺎرة واﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬
‫ﻗﺼ’’ﺮ اﻟﻨﻴ’’ﻞ…‬ ‫ﺳﺎرة ﻋﺒﺪ اﻟﺮﺣﻤﻦ ﻣﻤﺜﻠﺔ ﺷﺎﺑﺔ‬
‫ﺗﻔﻀﻠﻴﻦ ﻟﺘﻤﻀﻴﺔ اﻹﺟﺎزة؟ ﺳ’’ﻴﻨﺎء‬ ‫أي وﺟﻬﺔ ّ‬ ‫اﻧﻄﻠﻘﺖ ﻧﺤﻮ اﻷﺿﻮاء ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل ﻣﺪ ّوﻧﺔ‬
‫واﻟﺴ’’ﺎﺣﻞ اﻟﺸ’’ﻤﺎﻟﻲ…‬ ‫اﻟﻔﻴﺪﻳﻮ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺳﻤﺤﺖ ﻟﻬﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﻌﺒﻴﺮ ﻋﻦ‬
‫ﻣﺎ اﻟﺬي ﺗﺤﻮﻳﻪ ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺘﻚ ﻟﻠﺴﻔﺮ ﺑﻬﺪف اﻟﻌﻤﻞ؟‬
‫ﺣﻘﻴﺒ’’ﺔ اﻟﺴ’’ﻔﺮ اﻟﺨﺎﺻ’’ﺔ ﺑ’’ﻲ ﺧﻔﻴﻔ’’ﺔ اﻟ’’ﻮزن‪ ،‬أﺣﻤ’’ﻞ‬
‫ﻧﻔﺴﻬﺎ وﻋﻦ ﻣﻮﻫﺒﺘﻬﺎ… ﺳﺎرة ﺗﺠﻴﺪ‬
‫ﻣﻌ’’ﻲ ﻣ’’ﺎ أﺣﺘﺎﺟ’’ﻪ ﻓﻘ’’ﻂ‪ ،‬ﻧﻈ’’ﺎرة ﺷﻤﺴ’’ﻴﺔ‪ ،‬أزﻳ’’ﺎء‬ ‫اﻟﻨﻈﺮ ﺑﻌﻴﻦ اﻟﻐﺪ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﺒﻞ‬
‫ﺿﺮورﻳ’’ﺔ وﻗﻄﻌﺘﻴ’’ﻦ أﻧﻴﻘﺘﻴ’’ﻦ ﺗﻌﻜﺴ’’ﺎن أﺳ’’ﻠﻮﺑﻲ‪،‬‬
‫وﺟﻮارب ﻋﺪﻳﺪة…‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻮ ﻣﺼﺪر اﻹﻟﻬﺎم اﻷﺳﺎﺳﻲ ﻓﻲ ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻚ؟‬
‫أي ﻛﺘﺎب ﺗﻘﺮﺋﻴﻦ اﻵن؟ أﻗ’’ﺮأ اﻵن ﻛﺘ’’ﺎب اﻟﻄﻐ’’ﺮى‬ ‫اﻟﻘﺎﻫ’’ﺮة وأﺻﺪﻗﺎﺋ’’ﻲ…‬
‫ﻟﻴﻮﺳ’’ﻒ رﺧ’’ﺎ…‬ ‫أي أﺳﻠﻮب ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻮﺿﺔ ﻳﻌﻜﺲ أﺳﻠﻮﺑﻚ؟‬
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‫َﻣﻦ ﺑﻴﻦ ﻣﺼﻤّ ﻤﻲ اﻷزﻳﺎء ﺗﻔﻀﻠﻴﻦ؟ ﻋﺎﻟﻤﻴ’ﺎ أﻟﻜﺴ’’ﻨﺪر‬ ‫أﺳ’’ﻠﻮﺑﻲ اﻧﺘﻘﺎﺋ’’ﻲ داﺋﻤ ’ﺎً وأﺑ’’ﺪاً‪ ،‬أﺣ’’ﺐ أن أﻣ’’ﺰج‬
‫ﻣﺎﻛﻮﻳ’’ﻦ‪ ،‬وﻓ’’ﻲ ﻣﺼ’’ﺮ ﻣﻬﻨ’’ﺪ ﻛﻮﺟ’’ﺎك…‬ ‫اﻷﻗﻤﺸ’’ﺔ واﻷﺳ’’ﺎﻟﻴﺐ…‬
‫ﺗﻔﻀﻠﻴﻨﻬﺎ؟ أدﻣﻨ’’ﺖ اﻵن‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ ﺻﻴﺤﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﺎل اﻟﺘﻲ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬
‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ أﺟﻤﻞ ﻫﺪﻳﺔ ﺗﻠﻘﻴﺘﻬﺎ؟ﻗﻗ’’ﺪ ﻳﻜ’’ﻮن‬
‫اﻷﻇﻔ’’ﺎر اﻟﺰاﺋﻔ’’ﺔ‪ ،‬ﻃﻮﻳﻠ’’ﺔ وﺣ’’ﺎدة وﻗﻮﻳ’’ﺔ… ﻛﻤ’’ﺎ أن‬ ‫اﻟﺠ’’ﻮاب ﻏﻴ’’ﺮ ﻣﺒﺘﻜ’’ﺮ و"ﻛﻠﻴﺸ’’ﻴﻪ"‪،‬‬
‫اﻟﻘﻔﺎﻃﻴ’’ﻦ ﺗﻤﻨ’’ﺢ اﻷﻧﺎﻗ’’ﺔ ﻣﻌﻨ’’ﻰ…‬ ‫ﻟﻜ’’ﻦ ﺷ’’ﻘﻴﻘﺘﻲ ﻫ’’ﻲ أﺟﻤ’’ﻞ ﻫﺪﻳ’’ﺔ‬
‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ اﻟﺬﻛﺮى اﻷﻗﺮب إﻟﻰ ﻗﻠﺒﻚ؟ ﺣﻴ’’ﻦ‬ ‫أﺿﺎءت ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻲ…‬
‫ﻛﻨ’’ﺖ أﻟﺘﻘ’’ﻲ أﻗﺮﺑﺎﺋ’’ﻲ ﻓ’’ﻲ ﺑﻴ’’ﺖ ﺟﺪﺗ’’ﻲ ﻛﻞ ﻳ’’ﻮم‬ ‫ﻫﻞ ﺗﺘﻌ ّﻠﻘﻴﻦ ﺑﺎﻷﻣﻜﻨﺔ؟ أي ﻣﻜﺎن‬
‫ﺟﻤﻌ’’ﺔ‪ ،‬ﻧﻐﻨ’’ﻲ ﻣﻌ ’ﺎً وﻧﺮﻗ’’ﺺ وﻧﻠﻌ’’ﺐ…‬ ‫ﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮﻳﻨﻪ ﻣﻜﺎﻧﻚ؟ أﺗﻌﻠّ’’ﻖ ﺑﺎﻷﻣﻜﻨﺔ‬
‫أي ﺑﻠﺪ أو ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﺗﺤﺒﻴﻦ أن ﺗﺰوري‬ ‫واﻷﺷ’’ﻴﺎء اﻟﺘ’’ﻲ ﺻﻨﻌ’’ﺖ ذﻛﺮﻳﺎﺗ’’ﻲ…‬
‫ﺑﺎﺳﺘﻤﺮار وﻟﻤﺎذا؟ ﻣﻮﻧﺘﺮﻳ’’ﺎل اﻟﺘ’’ﻲ‬ ‫ﺛﻤ’’ﺔ ﻣﻄﻌ’’ﻢ ﻛ’’ﻮري‪ ،‬أﻋﺘﺒ’’ﺮه ﺟﻮﻫﺮة‬
‫أﻋﺘﺒﺮﻫ’’ﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺘ’’ﻲ اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻴ’’ﺔ…‬
‫اﺧﺘﺎري ﻓﻴﻠﻤﻚ اﻟﺴﻴﻨﻤﺎﺋﻲ‬
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‫اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻞ‪ ¢‬اﻟ’’’’’’ﻔﻴﻠﻢ اﻟﻤﺼ’’’’ﺮي‬
‫اﻟﻜﻮﻣﻴ’’ﺪي »ﺻﻌﻴ’’ﺪي ﻓ’’ﻲ اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌ’’ﺔ‬
‫اﻷﻣﻴﺮﻛﻴ’’ﺔ«…‬
‫أي ﻓﻴﻠﻢ ﺷﺎﻫﺪت أﺧﻴﺮاً؟ اﻟﻔﻴﻠﻢ‬
‫اﻟﻤﺼ’’ﺮي »ﺧ’’ﺮج وﻟ’’ﻢ ﻳﻌ’’ﺪ«‪ ،‬ﻣ’’ﻦ‬
‫إﺧ’’ﺮاج ﻣﺤﻤ’’ﺪ ﺧ’’ﺎن…‬
‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻮ ﻣﺸﺮوﻋﻚ اﻟﻤﻬﻨﻲ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻘﺒﻞ؟ أﻃﻤ’’ﺢ إﻟ’’ﻰ ﻛﺘﺎﺑ’’ﺔ‬
‫أﻓﻼﻣﻲوإﺧﺮاﺟﻬﺎ…‬
‫اﻟﺼ’’ﻮرة ‪STUDIO BAKR, INDIGITAL, GETTY‬‬

‫ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ اﻟﻘﻄﻌﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ أن‬

‫ﺗﺴﺘﻐﻨﻲ ﻋﻨﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺧﺰاﻧﺘﻚ؟ »ﺗ’’ﻮب«‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ اﺗﺠﺎه ﻋﻘﺎرب‬
‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺳﺎرة ﻋﺒﺪ اﻟﺮﺣﻤﻦ… ﺻﻮرة‬
‫أﺳ’’ﻮد ﺑﺴ’’ﻴﻂ…‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﺰﻫﺎت ﻣﻊ اﻷﺻﺪﻗﺎء… ﻗﻔﻄﺎن‬
‫ﻣﻦ ‪Bedouin‬‬
‫‪ …Bedouin‬ﻃﻼء أﻇﺎﻓﺮ ﻳﻼﺋﻢ‬
‫ﺻﻔﻲ ﻧﻔﺴﻚ ﺑﺜﻼث ﻛﻠﻤﺎت‪ ¢¢¢‬ﻧﺸ’’ﻴﻄﺔ‬ ‫ﺻﻴﺤﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﺎل اﻟﺘﻲ ّ‬
‫ﺗﻔﻀﻠﻬﺎ… ﺻﻮرة‬
‫ﻣﻦ رﺣﻠﺘﻬﺎ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻬﻨﺪ… ﻋﺎرﺿﺘﺎن ﻓﻲ‬
‫وﻣﺘﺤﻤﺴ’’ﺔ وﻃﻤﻮﺣﺔ…‬ ‫أزﻳﺎء أﻟﻜﺴﻨﺪر ﻣﺎﻛﻮﻳﻦ… ﻣﻊ أﺧﺘﻬﺎ‬
‫وأﺧﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻠﺬﻳﻦ ﺳﺎﻫﻤﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺤﺪﻳﺪ‬
‫ﻣﻼﻣﺢ ﺷﺨﺼﻴﺘﻬﺎ‬
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PHOTOGRAPHY: NAJD AL TAHER, INDIGITAL, SHUTTERSTOCK

‫ﺗﺎﺑﻌﻮﻧﺎ‬
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 ‫‪Trend‬ﺻﻴﺤﺔ‬

‫‪CELINE‬‬
‫‪ALEXANDER MCQUEEN‬‬

‫‪LOUIS VUITTON‬‬

‫ﻗﺼّ ﺎت رﺟﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬
‫وأﺣﺬﻳﺔ رﻳﺎﺿﻴﺔ‬

‫‪STELLA MCCARTNEY‬‬

‫ارﻛﻀــﻲ اﻟﻌاﻟم‬
‫‪BALENCIAGA‬‬

‫يمﻜﻨﻚ أن تصﻠي من ﻫذا المﻜان إلﻰ ذاك في‬

‫وﻗت ﻗصير مﻊ مﺠموعات الﺴﻨيﻜرز الراﺋﻌة‬
‫التي أُﻃﻠﻘت في عالم الموضة‬
‫‪FENDI‬‬ ‫‪EMPORIO ARMANI‬‬
‫اﻟﻤﻮﺿﺔ ﺗﺨﺘﺎر‬
‫اﻷﻧﺎﻗﺔ اﻟﻤﺮﻳﺤﺔ‬

‫‪EMILIO PUCCI‬‬
‫‪BALMAIN‬‬
‫‪CHANEL‬‬

‫‪ROGER VIVIER‬‬

‫أزﻳﺎء اﻟﺸﺎرع؟ ﻓﺴﺎﺗﻴﻦ‬

‫وﺟﻮارب وﺳﻨﻴﻜﺮز‬
‫‪PRADA‬‬ ‫‪MARNI‬‬
‫‪VETEMENTS‬‬

‫‪٣٠‬‬
‫ﺻﻴﺤﺔ‪Trend‬‬

‫‪PUBLIC SCHOOL‬‬
‫ﺣــﻮل اعﺘﻤــاد ﺣــﺬاء اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮ اﻹﻛﺴﺴــﻮار‬ ‫دعــﻚِ ﻣــﻦ أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﻜﻌــﺐ اﻟﻌاﻟﻲ‪ ،‬ﻓﺤــﺬاء اﻟﻤﻮﺳــم ﻟﻴﺲ إﻻ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻔﻀــﻞ ﻟدﻳــﻚِ ‪ ،‬ﻓقــﻂ ﺧــﺬي ﻟﻐــﺔ اﻷرﻗــام‬ ‫اﻟﺤــﺬاء اﻟﺮﻳاﺿــﻲ اﻟﺨﻔﻴــﻒ )أو اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮ(‪ .‬ﱢ‬
‫ﻧﺆﻛــد ﻟــﻚِ أنﱠ ﻫــﺬه‬
‫بﻌﻴــﻦ اﻻعﺘﺒــار‪ ،‬ﻓقــد ﻧﺸــﺮت ﺻﺤﻴﻔــﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺼﻴﺤــﺔ ﻻ تــﺰال راﺋﺠـ ًﺔ إﻟــﻰ اﻵن‪ .‬وعلــﻰ ﻣــدار عــدة ﻣﻮاﺳــم‬
‫ﻧﻴﻮﻳــﻮرك تاﻳﻤــﺰ تقﺮﻳــﺮاً ﻣﻔــاده أن ﺳلﺴــلﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻀــﺖ‪ ،‬دأبــﺖ ﻣﺮتــادات اﻟﺼﻔــﻮف اﻷﻣاﻣﻴــﺔ علــﻰ اﻧﺘﻌــال ﻟﻴــﺲ‬
‫اﻟﻤﺘاﺟــﺮ اﻷﻣﺮﻳﻜﻴــﺔ ‪ Macy’s‬أﺟــﺮت اﺳــﺘﺒﻴاﻧاً‬ ‫ـﻮب عاﻟﻴــﺔ ﺟــداً‪ ،‬بــﻞ أﻳﻀـاً أﺣﺬﻳﺔ رﻳاﺿﻴــﺔ ﻣﺮﻳﺤﺔ‬ ‫ﻓقــﻂ أﺣﺬﻳـ ٍﺔ بﻜﻌـ ٍ‬
‫ﺣــﻮل أﻛﺜــﺮ عﻼﻣــات اﻟﻤﻮﺿــﺔ ﻇهــﻮراً ﻓــﻲ‬ ‫ﻛﺬﻟــﻚ‪ .‬وﻟــم ﻳقﺘﺼــﺮ اﻷﻣــﺮ علــﻰ ﻣﺮتــادات اﻟﻌــﺮوض ﻓﺤﺴــﺐ‪ ،‬بــﻞ‬
‫اﻟﺼــﻮر علــﻰ ﻣﻮﻗــﻊ اﻧﺴــﺘقﺮام وتﺒﻴﱠــﻦ ﻣــﻦ‬ ‫ﻇهــﺮ اﻟﺤــﺬاء ذو اﻟﻨﻌــﻞ اﻟﻤﻄاﻃــﻲ ﻓــﻮق ﻣﻨﺼــات اﻟﻌــﺮوض ﻓــﻲ‬
‫تﺤﺘــﻞ اﻟﺼــدارة‪ ،‬ﺣﻴــﺚ‬ ‫ﱡ‬ ‫ﺧﻼﻟــﻪ أن ﻧاﻳﻜــﻲ‬ ‫بارﻳــﺲ‪ ،‬إذ تﺒﺨﺘــﺮت بــﻪ اﻟﻌارﺿــات‪ ،‬واﺣــد ًة تلــﻮ اﻷﺧــﺮى‪ ،‬ﻓــﻜان‬
‫وﺻــﻞ عــدد اﻟﻮﺳــﻮم اﻟﺘــﻲ ﻇهــﺮت ﻓﻴهــا‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺮﻛﻴــﺰ ﻣﻨﺼ ّﺒـاً علــﻰ اﻟﺮاﺣــﺔ ﻓــﻲ اﻟﻤقــام اﻷول‪.‬‬
‫ﻛﻞ‬‫ﻣلﻴــﻮن وﺳــم‪ .‬ﻛﻤــا أﺟــﺮت ﱞ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫إﻟــﻰ ‪٤٧‬‬ ‫اﻷﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺮﻳاﺿﻴــﺔ اﻟﺨﻔﻴﻔــﺔ تﻔﻀﻴــﻞ اﻟﻨﺴــاء‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫وﻟﻄاﻟﻤــا ﻧاﻟــﺖ‬
‫ﻣﺆﺳﺴــﺔ اﻟﺨدﻣــات اﻟﻤاﻟﻴــﺔ ﻏﻮﻟدﻣــان‬ ‫ﻣــﻦ ﱠ‬ ‫)وﻣــﻦ ذﻟــﻚ علــﻰ ﺳــﺒﻴﻞ اﻟﻤﺜــال عﻼﻣــﺔ ‪ TK‬اﻟﺘــﻲ تﺼﻄــﻒ ﻣﻌﺠﺒاتهــا‬
‫ﺳــاﻛﺲ وﭬــﻮغ ﻟلﻤﺮاﻫقﻴــﻦ اﺳــﺘﺒﻴاﻧاً علــﻰ‬ ‫ﻓــﻲ ﻃﻮابﻴــﺮ ﻃﻮﻳلــﺔ ﻟﺸــﺮاء أﺣﺬﻳﺘهــا اﻟﺮﻳاﺿﻴــﺔ(‪ .‬وﻟﻜﻨﻨــا‬
‫اﻹﻧــاث ﻣــﻦ ﺟﻴــﻞ اﻷﻟﻔﻴــﺔ )تﺮاوﺣــﺖ أعﻤارﻫــﻦ‬ ‫وﺻلﻨــا إﻟــﻰ ﻣﺮﺣلــﺔ أﺿﺤــﺖ ﻓﻴهــا تلــﻚ اﻷﺣﺬﻳــﺔ تﻈهــﺮ علــﻰ‬
‫بﻴــﻦ ‪ ١٣‬و‪ ٢٩‬عاﻣـاً(‪ ،‬اﺣﺘلــﺖ ﻓﻴــﻪ ﻧاﻳﻜــﻲ اﻟﻤﺮتﺒﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﺼــات اﻟﻌــﺮوض‪ ،‬ﻓلــم تﻌــد ﻫﻨــاك ﺣاﺟــﺔ ﻻﺳــﺘﺒدال‬
‫ّ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻔﻀلــﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺜاﻧﻴــﺔ علــﻰ ﻗاﺋﻤــﺔ عﻼﻣاتهــﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺤــﺬاء اﻟــﺬي تﻨﺘﻌلﻴﻨــﻪ ﻟلﺘﻨ ـ ّﺰه بﺂﺧــﺮ )عﻨــد ارتــداء اﻷزﻳــاء‬
‫‪CELINE‬‬

‫‪.Love List‬‬ ‫اﻟﺮاﻗﻴــﺔ(‪ ،‬ﺣﻴــﺚ ﻳدعــﻮكِ عاﻟــم اﻟﻤﻮﺿــﺔ اﻵن إﻟــﻰ اﻧﺘﻌاﻟــﻪ‬
‫ﻟــﻮن‬
‫ٍ‬ ‫ﱢ‬
‫ﻛﻞ‬ ‫علــﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز‬ ‫أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ‬ ‫وتﺄتــﻲ‬ ‫ﻃــﻮال اﻟﻴــﻮم‪.‬‬
‫وﺷــﻜﻞ تقﺮﻳﺒــاً‪ ،‬ﻟــﺬا إن بــدأتِ اﻻﺳــﺘﻤﺘاع باﻧﺘﻌــال أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺘﻤارﻳــﻦ‬ ‫وﻧﺴــﺨﺔ ﺧﺮﻳــﻒ وﺷــﺘاء ‪ ٢٠١٨‬ﻟــم تــﺄت ﻓــﻲ ﺷــﻜﻞ‬
‫اﻟﺮﻳاﺿﻴــﺔ‪ ،‬ﺳــﺘﺠدﻳﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮعــﺔ واﺳــﻌﺔ ﻳﻤﻜﻨــﻚِ اﺧﺘﻴــار ﻣــا ﻳﻨاﺳــﺒﻚِ‬ ‫ﺣــﺬا ٍء ﻟﻄﻴــﻒٍ ﺻﻐﻴــﺮ‪ ،‬بــﻞ علــﻰ اﻟﻌﻜــﺲ ﻣــﻦ ذﻟــﻚ تﻤاﻣ ـاً‪،‬‬
‫ﻣــﻦ بﻴﻨهــا‪ .‬وﻣــﻦ اﻟﺤــﺬاء ﻃﻮﻳــﻞ اﻟﺴــاق اﻟﻀﺨــم إﻟــﻰ ﺣــﺬاء ‪ Dad‬ﻣــﻦ‬ ‫إذ ﻛاﻧــﺖ أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز ﺧــﻼل اﻟﻌــﺮوض ﻛﺒﻴــﺮة‬
‫راف ﺳــﻴﻤﻮﻧﺰ وﭬﻴﺘﻤــان ﻓــﻲ اﻟﻤﻮاﺳــم اﻟﺴــابقﺔ‪ ،‬ﻳﺒــدو أنﱠ ﻫﻨــاك‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺠــم وعﺮﻳﻀــﺔ بﺠــﺮأة واﺿﺤــﺔ‪ ،‬ﻛﻤــا ﻟــﻮ ﻛاﻧــﺖ ﻣﺮتدﻳﺘها‬
‫ﺧﻴــارات ﻛﺜﻴــﺮة تﺮﺿــﻲ أذواق اﻟﺠﻤﻴــﻊ‪ .‬تقــﻮل ﻟﻮرﻳــﻦ ﺳــاﻧﺘﻮ دوﻣﻴﻨﻐــﻮ‪،‬‬ ‫تﻌلــﻦ ﻟلﻌاﻟــم أﺟﻤــﻊ‪» :‬ﻗدﻣــاي تﺒــدوان راﺋﻌﺘﻴــﻦ!« وأعــادت‬
‫ـارﻛﺔ ﻓــﻲ ﻣﻮﻗــﻊ ﻣــﻮدا أوبﺮاﻧــدي‪» :‬ﻛﻨـ ُـﺖ أﻗــﻮل دوﻣـاً‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺆﺳﺴــﺔ اﻟﻤﺸـ ِ‬‫ﱢ‬ ‫اﻷﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﻤلّﻮﻧــﺔ اﻟﺘــﻲ وﺻــﻞ ﻃﻮﻟهــا إﻟــﻰ اﻟﻜاﺣــﻞ ﻓــﻲ‬‫ُ‬
‫‪LOEWE‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬
‫إﻧﻨــﻲ ﺳــﺄﺟﺮﱢب أي ﺷــﻲ ٍء ﻣــﺮة واﺣــدة‪ ،‬ﻃاﻟﻤــا أﻧــﻪ ﻻ ﻳﺘﻌلــﻖ بﺄﺣﺬﻳــﺔ‬
‫اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز‪ ،‬وﻟﻜــﻦ اﻟﺰﻣــﻦ ﻗــد تﻐ ﱠﻴــﺮ«‪ ،‬وتﻀﻴــﻒ‪» :‬ﻻﺣﻈـ ُـﺖ أﻧﻨــﻲ أﻧﺘﻌــﻞ‬
‫أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز بقــدر أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﺘﻴلﺘﻮ عاﻟﻴــﺔ اﻟﻜﻌــﺐ اﻟﺘــﻲ أﻣﺘلﻜهــا‪ ،‬ﻟــم أتﺨﻴــﻞ‬
‫أن ﻫــﺬا ﺳــﻴﺤﺼﻞ ﻣﻄلق ـاً«‪.‬‬
‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬
‫تقــدم عﻼﻣــﺔ ذا ﻧــﻮ بﺮوﺟﻴﻜــﺖ ﺳــﺒﺒا ﻳﺘﻌلــﻖ بﺄﻧاﻗــﺔ اﻟﻤﻈهــﺮ ﻳدعــم اﻟﺘﺤـﻮّل ﻧﺤــﻮ‬
‫أﺳﺴــﺘها ﻧــﻮر اﻟﺘﻤﻴﻤــﻲ‬ ‫اﻧﺘﻌــال أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز‪ .‬وتﺨاﻃــﺐ ﻫــﺬه اﻟﻌﻼﻣــﺔ‪ ،‬اﻟﺘــﻲ ﱢ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻮﻟــﻮدة ﻓــﻲ اﻟﺴــﻌﻮدﻳﺔ وتﺸــارك ﻓــﻲ ابﺘــﻜار تﺼاﻣﻴﻤهــا بﺴــﻤﺔ ﺷــدﻳاق‬
‫اﻟﻤﻮﻟــﻮدة ﻓــﻲ ﻟﺒﻨــان‪ ،‬ﺟاﻣﻌــﻲ اﻷعﻤــال اﻟﻔﻨﻴــﺔ وﻣﺤﺒــﻲ أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز علــﻰ ﺣـ ﱟد‬
‫ﺳــﻮاء‪ .‬وﻳﺘــمﱡ تﺼﻤﻴــم ﻗﻄــﻊ اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮعــﺔ اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴــﻴﺔ ﻟلﻌﻼﻣــﺔ ﻣــﻦ واﻗــﻊ تﻌاوﻧهــا ﻣــﻊ‬
‫ﻓ ﱠﻨاﻧﻴــﻦ ﺻاعدﻳــﻦ‪ ،‬ﻣــا ﻳﺠﻌــﻞ أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز اﻟﺘــﻲ تﻨﺘﺠهــا أعﻤــا ًﻻ ﻓﻨ ّﻴــﺔ ﻳﻤﻜــﻦ‬
‫ـﻜﻞ ﻣﻌﻨــﻰ اﻟﻜلﻤــﺔ‪ .‬تقــﻮل ﺷــدﻳاق‪» :‬تﺨﺘلــﻒ عﻼﻣــﺔ ذا ﻧــﻮ بﺮوﺟﻴﻜــﺖ‬ ‫اﻧﺘﻌاﻟهــا‪ ،‬بـ ﱢ‬
‫عــﻦ ﻏﻴﺮﻫــا ﻣــﻦ عﻼﻣــات أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز ﻣــﻦ ﺧــﻼل تﻌاوﻧﻨــا ﻣــﻊ اﻟﻔﻨاﻧﻴــﻦ واﻟــﺬي‬
‫ﻳﺴــﻤﺢ ﻟلﺰباﺋــﻦ باﻟﺘﻌﺒﻴــﺮ عﻤــا ﻳﺠــﻮل ﻓــﻲ ﺧاﻃﺮﻫــم‪ ،‬وﺧدﻣــﺔ ﻗﻀﻴــﺔ ﻣــا ﻣــﻊ ﻛﻞ‬
‫ﺧﻄــﻮة ﻳﺨﻄﻮﻧهــا«‪ ،‬وتﻀﻴــﻒ‪» :‬ﻧﺴــﺘﻌﻤﻞ اﻟﺮﺳــاﺋﻞ اﻟقﻮﻳــﺔ اﻟﺘــﻲ ﻳﺮﺳــلها اﻟﻔﻨاﻧﻮن‬
‫ﻟﻨﺨاﻃــﺐ اﻟﺰباﺋــﻦ وﻧﺠﻌلهــم ﻳﺸــﻌﺮون باﻟﺘﻔ ـﺮّد«‪.‬‬
‫وباﻟﻄﺒــﻊ ﻷﻧﻨــا اﻵن ﻓــﻲ عــام ‪ ،٢٠١٨‬ﻻ ﻳﻤﻜﻨﻨــا إﻏﻔــال اﻟﺠاﻧــﺐ اﻷﻧﺜــﻮي ﻷﺣﺬﻳــﺔ‬
‫اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز‪ ،‬ﻓاﻟﻨﺴــاء ﻳﺮﻏﺒــﻦ ﻓــﻲ اﻷﻧاﻗــﺔ اﻟﻤﻤﺰوﺟــﺔ باﻟﺮاﺣــﺔ‪ ،‬وﺧﺼﻮﺻ ـاً ﺧــﻼل‬
‫اﻟﻨهــار‪ .‬ﻓﻔــﻲ ﻧهاﻳــﺔ اﻟﻤﻄــاف‪ ،‬إدارة ﻧﺸــاط تﺠــاري ﻣــا واﻟقﻴــام بــدور اﻷم ﻟــﻦ ﻳﻜﻮﻧــا‬
‫ﻛﻌــﺐ بﻄــﻮل أربــﻊ بﻮﺻــات‪ .‬وﻟﺤﺴــﻦ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ﻣﻤﻜﻨﻴــﻦ عﻨدﻣــا تﻨﺘﻌــﻞ اﻟﻤــﺮأة ﺣــﺬا ًء ذا‬
‫اﻟﺤــﻆ‪ ،‬ﻳﻌﻤــﻞ اﻟﻤﺼﻤﻤﱢ ــﻮن علــﻰ ابﺘــﻜار ﻣﻮدﻳــﻼتٍ ﺟدﻳــد ٍة ﻣــﻦ أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز‪،‬‬
‫اﻟﻤﺴــﻄﺤﺔ‬‫ﱠ‬ ‫ﻓﻤــﻦ أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ باﻟﻨﺴــﻴاﻏا اﻟﺮﻳاﺿﻴــﺔ اﻟﻀﺨﻤــﺔ إﻟــﻰ أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز‬
‫اﻟﻔاﺧــﺮة ﻣــﻦ ﻫﻴﺮﻣﻴــﺲ‪ ،‬ﻫﻨــاك ﻣــا ﻳﺮﺿــﻲ باﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴــد ﺟﻤﻴــﻊ اﻷذواق‪.‬‬
‫عــﺮض ﻣارﺟﻴــﻼ إﻟــﻰ اﻷذﻫــان تلــﻚ اﻟﻤﻮدﻳــﻼت اﻟﺘــﻲ راﺟــﺖ‬
‫ﺧــﻼل اﻟﺜﻤاﻧﻴﻨﻴــات‪ .‬ﺧــﺬي علــﻰ ﺳــﺒﻴﻞ اﻟﻤﺜــال أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ‬
‫رﻳﺒــﻮك‪ ،‬وإل إﻳــﻪ ﻏِﻴــﺮ‪ ،‬وﻟﻜﻨهــا ﺟــاءت بــاﻷزرق اﻟداﻛــﻦ‪ ،‬واﻟﻔﻀــﻲ اﻟقﺰﺣــﻲ‪ ،‬وباﻷﺣﻤﺮ‬
‫اﻟــﺬي ﻳﺒــدو ﻣﺜاﻟﻴــاً ﻟﺤُ ﻤــﺮة اﻟﺸــﻔاه‪ .‬ﻓﺈﻣــا أن تﺨﺘــاري ﺣــﺬا ًء ﻛﺒﻴــﺮاً وﺟﺮﻳﺌــاً‪ ،‬أو ﻻ‬
‫تﻜلﱢﻔــﻲ ﻧﻔﺴــﻚِ اﻟﻌﻨــا َء ﻣﻄلقـاً‪ .‬وﻣــﻦ أﺟــﻞ ﻣﺠﻤﻮعﺘهــا ﻟﺮبﻴــﻊ وﺻﻴــﻒ ‪ ،٢٠١٨‬عﻤــدت‬
‫ﻟــﻮي ﭬﻮﻳﺘــﻮن إﻟــﻰ ﻣﻔارﻗــﺔ تارﻳﺨﻴــﺔ ﻏﻴــﺮ ﻣﺴــﺒﻮﻗﺔ عﺒــﺮ اﻟﺠﻤﻊ بﻴــﻦ ﻓﻨــﻮن اﻟﺨﻴاﻃﺔ‬
‫اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴــﻴﺔ اﻟﻌﺮﻳقــﺔ اﻟﺘــﻲ تﻌــﻮد إﻟــﻰ اﻟقــﺮن اﻟﺜاﻣــﻦ عﺸــﺮ وﺣــﺬاء رﻳاﺿــﻲ ﺧﻔﻴــﻒ‬
‫ذي ﻧﻌـ ٍـﻞ ﻣﻨﻔــﻮش‪ ،‬ﻟﺘﺴــﺠّ ﻞ اﻟﻌﻼﻣــﺔ علــﻰ إﺛــﺮ ذﻟــﻚ ﻟﺤﻈـ ًﺔ ﻓــﻲ ﻏاﻳــﺔ اﻷﻧاﻗــﺔ علــﻰ‬
‫ﻣﻨﺼــﺔ اﻟﻌــﺮض‪ ...‬تﺨﻴﱠلــﻲ ﻧابلﻴــﻮن ﻳلﻌــﺐ دور اﻟﺒﻄﻮﻟــﺔ ﻓــﻲ ﻓﻴلــم ‪.Tron‬‬
‫ﺻﻴﺤــﺔ اﻷﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺮﻳاﺿﻴــﺔ اﻟﻀﺨﻤــﺔ بﻤﺠﻤلهــا أﺻــدا َء ﺣــﺬاء‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫واﻟﻴــﻮم‪ُ ،‬تــﺮدﱢد‬
‫‪ Ozweego‬اﻟــﺬي ابﺘﻜــﺮه راف ﺳــﻴﻤﻮﻧﺰ ﻟﻌﻼﻣــﺔ أدﻳــداس عــام ‪ ،٢٠١٣‬وﻗــد ﺣﺼــﻞ‬
‫ذﻟــﻚ اﻟﻤﻮدﻳــﻞ علــﻰ رواج باﻟــﻎ ﻓــﻲ اﻟﻌــام اﻟﺘاﻟــﻲ عﻨدﻣــا أرﻓقــﻪ ﻛارل ﻻﻏﺮﻓﻴلــد‬
‫ﻛﻞ إﻃﻼﻟ ـ ٍﺔ ﻓــﻲ عﺮﺿــﻪ ﻟﻸزﻳــاء اﻟﺮاﻗﻴــﺔ ﻟﺮبﻴــﻊ ‪ ٢٠١٤‬ﻣــﻦ ﺷــاﻧﻴﻞ‪ .‬ﺛــم أﻗدﻣــﺖ‬ ‫ﻣــﻊ ﱢ‬
‫دور باﻟﻨﺴــﻴاﻏا‪ ،‬وﻻﻧﭭــان‪ ،‬وإﻳــﭫ ﺳــان ﻟــﻮران علــﻰ تقدﻳــم اﻟﺤــﺬاء علــﻰ ﻣﻨﺼــات‬
‫عﺮوﺿهــا بﺘﺼاﻣﻴــم ﻣﺘﻨﻮعــﺔ‪.‬‬
‫تقــﻮل ﭬاﻧﻴﺴــا ﻓﺮﻳدﻣــان‪ ،‬اﻟﻨاﻗــدة اﻟﻤﺘﺨﺼﺼــﺔ ﻓــﻲ اﻟﻤﻮﺿــﺔ‪» :‬أﺣﺬﻳــﺔ اﻟﺴــﻨﻴﻜﺮز‬
‫ﺟــﺰ ٌء ﻣــﻦ ﺣﺮﻛــﺔ أﻛﺒــﺮ ﻓــﻲ عاﻟــم اﻟﻤﻮﺿــﺔ تﺮاعــﻲ اﻷبﻌــاد اﻟﺼﺤﻴــﺔ واﻟﺮاﺣــﺔ عﻨــد‬
‫اﻻﺳــﺘﻌﻤال واﻟﺘــﻲ تــم اﻟﺘﻌﺒﻴــﺮ عﻨهــا ﻓــﻲ عاﻟــم اﻟﻤﻮﺿــﺔ بﻤﺼﻄلــﺢ ‪Athleisure‬‬
‫]ﻳﻄلــﻖ علــﻰ اﻟﻤﻼبــﺲ اﻟﺮﻳاﺿﻴــﺔ اﻟﺘــﻲ تﺠﻤــﻊ بﻴــﻦ اﻟﺮاﺣــﺔ واﻷﻧاﻗــﺔ واﻟﻌﺼﺮﻳــﺔ[«‪.‬‬
‫وتــﺮدف‪» :‬ﻣﻨــﺬ زﻣـ ٍـﻦ بﻌﻴــد‪ ،‬اعﺘــاد ﻣﺴــﺘهلﻜﻮ اﻟﻤﻨﺘﺠــات اﻟﻔاﺧــﺮة ﻣــﺰج ﻗﻄﻌهــم‬
‫اﻟﻤﺨﺘلﻔــﺔ ﻣﻌــاً ‪-‬ﺣﻴــﺚ ﻳﺮتــدون بﻨاﻃﻴــﻞ اﻟﺠﻴﻨــﺰ ﻣــﻊ ﻗﻄــﻊ ﻣــﻦ ﺷــاﻧﻴﻞ‪ -‬وﻫــﺬا‬
‫بﺒﺴــاﻃﺔ تﻌﺒﻴــﺮ آﺧــﺮ عــﻦ ذﻟــﻚ اﻟﻤﻔهــﻮم«‪ .‬وإذا ﻛاﻧــﺖ ﻻ تــﺰال تﺴــاوركِ ﺷــﻜﻮك‬

‫‪٢٩‬‬
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‫في عالم الموضة‪ ،‬وما زالت‬
‫ّ‬
‫المصممين‬ ‫تأسر خيال‬
‫‪CLAIRE CARRUTHERS‬‬ ‫أعدتها‬
‫بقلم ‪CORBIN CHAMBERLIN‬‬
 ‫ســترة وحذاء طويل‬
UNRAVEL ‫الساق من‬
‫؛ بذلة من‬PROJECT
VICTORIA BECKHAM

JACKET, BOOTS, UNRAVEL

PROJECT; SUIT,
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‫؛‬FREYA DALSJØ ‫ســترة من‬
ANGEL ‫ســترة عصرية من‬
‫؛ حذاء طويل الســاق‬CHEN
BALENCIAGA ‫من‬

BLAZER, FREYA DALSJØ;

JACKET, ANGEL CHEN; BOOTS,
BALENCIAGA

METTE ‫تصفيف الشــعر‬

‫ من وكالة‬THORSGAARD
TRINE ‫ مكياج‬LUNDLUND
‫ من وكالة‬SKJØTH
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‫؛ فستان من‬CHALAYAN
‫؛ حــذاء طويل‬ISA ARFEN
UNRAVEL ‫الساق من‬
PROJECT

COAT, SHARON WAUCHOB;

BLAZER, CHALAYAN;
DRESS, ISA ARFEN; BOOTS,
UNRAVEL PROJECT

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LOUIS ‫وشورت من‬
DRESS, AWAKE AT ‫؛ بنطلون‬VUITTON
HARVEY NICHOLS FILA ‫من‬

VEST, SWEATSHIRT,
TURTLENECK, SHORTS,
LOUIS VUITTON;
PANTS, FILA

‫معطف م ََطري‬
‫وقميص وبنطلون‬
‫؛ حذاء‬CÉLINE ‫من‬
ASICS ‫رياضي من‬

TRENCH COAT, SHIRT,

PANTS, CÉLINE;
SNEAKERS, ASICS
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PRINGLE OF ‫فستان من‬
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‫ﺑﺬﻟﺔ اﻟﺴﻬﺮات‬
‫ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم ‪ ،ÆÇÇÊ‬ﺑﻴّﻨﺖ اﻟﻌﺎرﺿﺔ ﻟﻴﻨﺪا‬
‫إﻳﻔﺎﻧﺠﻴﻠﻴﺴﺘﺎ ﻟﻨﺴﺎء اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬
‫ﻛﻴﻒ ﻳﺮﺗﺪﻳﻦ ﺑﺬﻻت اﻟﺴﻬﺮات‬
‫ﺧﻼل اﻓﺘﺘﺎح أول ﻣﺘﺠﺮ‬
‫ﻟﺠﻴﺎﻧﻲﭬﻴﺮﺳﺎﺗﺸﻲ‪ª‬‬
‫وﺑﻌﺪ ﻣﺮور ﻋﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬
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‫اﻟﻌﻼﻣﺔ ﺗﻠﻚ‬ ‫ﻋﺎﻣﺎً‪ ،‬ﺟﺪّدت‬
‫اﻹﻃﻼﻟﺔ ﺑﺈﺿﺎﻓﺔ اﻟﺠﻠﺪ‬
‫اﻷﺳﻮد إﻟﻰ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ‬
‫رﺑﻴﻊ وﺻﻴﻒ ‪ ÈÊÆË‬اﻟﺘﻲ‬
‫ﺗﺤﻴﻲ ذﻛﺮى اﻟﻤﺼﻤﻢّ‬

‫ﻣﺮﺑّﻌﺎت ﺑﺮﺑﺮي‬
‫ﻋﺮﻓﺖ ﻃﺒﻌﺔ اﻟﻤﺮﺑّﻌﺎت اﻟﺮواج‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ ﻇﻬﺮت ﺛﻢ اﺧﺘﻔﺖ ﻋﺪة ﻣﺮات‬
‫ﻣﻨﺬ أن ﺗﻢ ﺗﺴﺠﻴﻠﻬﺎ ﻛﻌﻼﻣﺔ ﺗﺠﺎرﻳﺔ ﺳﻨﺔ ‪ ªÆÇÈÆ‬وﻓﻲ رﺑﻴﻊ وﺻﻴﻒ‬ ‫‬ ‫
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‫‪ ،ÈÊÆË‬ﺗﻘﺪّم ﺑﺮﺑﺮي ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺗﺤﺘﻔﻲ ﺑﻤﺮﺑﻌﺎﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﻴﺪ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻤﻬﺎ‬
‫ﺑﺄﻟﻮان ﻗﻮس اﻟﻤﻄﺮ‪ ،‬وﺗﻨﺜﺮﻫﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺒﻠﻮزات اﻟﺮﻳﺎﺿﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺑﺎدرة‬
‫ﺣﻨﻴﻦ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺜﻤﺎﻧﻴﻨﻴﺎت واﻟﺘﺴﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎت‬
‫ﺳﺘﺮة ﺟﻠﺪﻳﺔ ﻣﻦ &‬
‫‪OTHER STORIES‬‬
‫ﻣﻦ ﻣﻌﺎﻃﻒ اﻟﻤﻄﺮ‬
‫إﻟﻰ اﻟﻘﺒﻌﺎت اﻟﻀﺨﻤﺔ‬
‫اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤﻤﻴﻚِ ﻣﻦ أﺷﻌﺔ‬
‫اﻟﺸﻤﺲ‪ ،‬ﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ زﻳﻨﺔ‬
‫اﻟﺮأس ﻣﻦ اﻹﻛﺴﺴﻮارات‬
‫اﻟﺒﺎرزة ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻮﺳﻢ‪ ،‬ﻣﺜﻞ‬
‫ﻗﺒﻌﺔ إﻟﻴﺰاﺑﻴﺘﺎ ﻓﺮاﻧﻜﻲ‬
‫ﻹﻃﻼﻟﺔ اﻟﺸﺎﻃﺊ‬
‫أﺻﺒﺢ اﻟﺤﺬاء ﻃﻮﻳﻞ اﻟﺴﺎق ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺒﺎً ﻹﻃﻼﻻﺗﻚِ ﻓﻲ‬
‫ﺟﻤﻴﻊ ﻓﺼﻮل اﻟﺴﻨﺔ‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ أﻃﻠﻘﺖ ﻋﻼﻣﺔ ﻛﻠﻮي ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻤﺎً‬
‫زودﺗﻪ ﺑﺮﺑﺎط وإﺑﺰﻳﻢ‪ ªªª‬ﺳﻴﻨﺎل إﻋﺠﺎﺑﻚِ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴﺪ‬
‫‪ÈÆ‬‬
‫‬
‫اﻟﺴﺘﺮة اﻟﺠﻠﺪﻳﺔ‬
‫ﺑﺎﻷﻛﺘﺎف اﻟﺒﺎرزة واﻟﻴﺎﻗﺔ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻘﻠﻮﺑﺔ واﻟﺘﻨﻮرة اﻟﻀﻴﻘﺔ‬
‫أﺿﻔﻰ ﻋﺰ اﻟﺪﻳﻦ ﻋﻠﻴّﺔ‬
‫ﻋﻠﻰ اﻹﻃﻼﻻت اﻟﺠﻠﺪﻳﺔ‬ ‫ ﺳﺘﺮة ﻣﻦ ‪TOM FORD‬‬
‫روﻧﻘﺎً وﺟﺎذﺑﻴﺔ راﻗﻴﺔ‬ ‫ ﻗﻼدة ﻣﻦ ‪ CÉLINE‬‬
‫ﺑﻨﻄﻠﻮن ﻣﻦ ‪ROLAND‬‬
‫ﺧﻼل اﻟﺜﻤﺎﻧﻴﻨﻴﺎت‪ ª‬واﻟﻴﻮم‪،‬‬ ‫‪  MOURET‬ﺻﻨﺪل ﻣﻦ‬
‫ﺗﺘﺤﻮّل ﺧﻴﺎرات اﻟﺴﺘﺮات‬ ‫ ‬ ‫‪GIORGIO ARMANI‬‬
‫اﻟﻀﻴﻘﺔ ﻟﻔﺘﺮة اﻟﻤﺴﺎء إﻟﻰ‬
‫ﺗﺼﺎﻣﻴﻢ ﻓﻀﻔﺎﺿﺔ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ‬
‫ﻣﺜﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﻟﻺﻃﻼﻻت اﻟﻤﺮﻳﺤﺔ‬
‫إذا ﻟﻢ ﻳﻜﻦ ﻟﺪﻳﻚِ ﺑﻌﺪ‬
‫ﻓﺴﺘﺎن ﻣﻦ ﭬﻴﺘﻤﺎن‪،‬‬
‫اﻗﺘﻨﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ‬
‫اﻟﻤﺰﻳﻦ ﺑﺸﻌﺎر ‪TABLOID‬‬
‫واﻟﺬي ﺗﺠﺪﻳﻨﻪ ﻟﺪى‬
‫ﻫﺎرﭬﻲ ﻧﻴﻜﻠﺰ‬
‫ﻳﺠﺪر أن ﺗﺜﺮي ﺧﺰاﻧﺔ ﻣﻼﺑﺴﻚِ‬
‫ﺑﻘﻄﻌﺔ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪﻧﻴﻢ ﻛﻠّﻤﺎ‬
‫أردتِ ﺗﺠﺪﻳﺪﻫﺎ‪ ،‬وﻫﺆﻻء اﻟﻤﺼﻤﻤﻮن‬
‫ﻟﺤﺴﻦ اﻟﺤﻆ ﻋﻠﻰ اﺳﺘﻌﺪاد ﻟﺘﻠﺒﻴﺔ‬
‫رﻏﺒﺎﺗﻚِ ‪ ª‬وﺗﺘﻮق ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﻨﻮرة ذات‬
‫ﻨﺴﻠﺔ ﻣﻦ راغ آﻧﺪ ﺑﻮن‬‫اﻟﺤﻮاف اﻟﻤُ ّ‬
‫ﺷﻮﻗﺎً إﻟﻰ ﺗﻴﺸﻴﺮت وﺧﻒ ﺟﻠﺪي‬
‫إذا ﻛﺎن اﻟﻤﻌﻄﻒ اﻟﻨﺎﻳﻠﻮن اﻟﻮاﻗﻲ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻄﺮ‬
‫ﺗﻌ ّﺪ ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺔ أﺳﻜﻮت اﻟﺴﺎﺗﺎﻧﻴﺔ اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮة ﻣﻦ ﻋﻼﻣﺔ ذا‬
‫واﻟﺴﺘﺮة اﻟﻔﻀﻔﺎﺿﺔ ذات اﻟﻘﻠﻨﺴﻮة ﻳﺸﻌﺮاﻧﻚِ‬
‫رو ﺑﺘﺼﻤﻴﻤﻬﺎ اﻟﻔﻨﻲ ذي اﻟﻌﻘﺪ واﻟﻄﻴّﺎت اﻟﻼﻓﺘﺔ‪ ،‬واﻟﺘﻲ‬
‫ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻠﻞ‪ ،‬اِرﺗﻘﻲ ﺑﻬﺬه اﻟﺼﻴﺤﺔ ﻣﻊ ﺳﺘﺮة ﺗﻮري‬
‫ﻳﻐﻤﺮﻫﺎ ﻟﻮن اﻟﻴﺎﻗﻮت اﻷﺣﻤﺮ‪ ،‬أﺣﺪث إﻛﺴﺴﻮار‬
‫ﺳﺒﻮرت اﻟﻮاﺳﻌﺔ اﻟﻤﺰﻳﻨﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻄﺒﻌﺎت‬
‫ﻹﻃﻼﻻﺗﻚِ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﻬﺮات‬
 ‫أﺣﺬﻳﺔ ﻃﻮﻳﻠﺔ اﻟﺴﺎق ﻻﻣﻌﺔ‬
‫ﻋﻤﺪت دوﻟﺘﺸﻲ آﻧﺪ ﻏﺎﺑﺎﻧﺎ إﻟﻰ ﺗﺠﺪﻳﺪ اﻷﺣﺬﻳﺔ ﻃﻮﻳﻠﺔ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻮﺿﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻐ ّﻴﺮ ﺻﻴﺤﺎﺗﻬﺎ ﺑﺼﻔﺔ دورﻳﺔ‪ ،‬ﺗﺤﺘﺎج‬ ‫اﻟﺴﺎق اﻟﻤﻌﺪﻧﻴﺔ واﻟﺜﻘﻴﻠﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻋﺸﻘﺘﻬﺎ ﻣﻐﻨﻴﺘﺎ ﻓﺮﻗﺔ‬
‫ﻣﻨﺎ أن ﻧﻌﻮد إﻟﻰ ﻗﻄﻌﻨﺎ اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻠﺔ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ وﻧﻀﻔﻲ‬‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Abba‬اﻟﺸﻬﻴﺮة ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺒﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎت وﻟﻜﻨﻬﺎ اﺧﺘﻔﺖ ﻣﻦ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ‬
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‫اﻟﻌﻼﻣﺔ ﻣﻊ اﻹﻃﻼﻻت اﻟﻮردﻳﺔ اﻟﺸﺎﺑﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻮﺿﺔ‪ ،‬ﻧﺴﻘﺘﻬﺎ‬
‫ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ ﻟﻤﺴﺎت ﻋﺼﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﻐﻨﻴﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺰﺧﺎرف ﻟﻤﻮﺳﻢ اﻟﺮﺑﻴﻊ واﻟﺼﻴﻒ‬
‫اﻟﺼﻮرة ‪ PETER CAINE (MUSÉE YVES SAINT LAURENT PARIS), GETTY, CNI DIGITAL ARCHIVE‬ﺟﻤﻌﺘﻬﺎ ‪CLAIRE CARRUTHERS‬‬

‫أﻗﻤﺸﺔ اﻟﺪﻧﻴﻢ‬
‫ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺔ اﻟﺪﻳﺴﻜﻮ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﺮﻓﺔ‬
‫ﻣﻊ اﻟﻨﺴﺨﺔ اﻟﻤﺮﺻّ ﻌﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﻴﻴﺮي ﻣﻮﻏﻠﺮ‪ ،‬ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ‬
‫ﺳﺎن ﻟﻮران اﻟﻜﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺔ ذات‬ ‫رﺑﻴﻊ وﺻﻴﻒ ‪‡ŠÎ‹Ì‬‬
‫اﻟﺴﻠﺴﻠﺔ اﻟﻤﻌﺪﻧﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﺑﺎت ﺑﺈﻣﻜﺎﻧﻚِ‬ ‫ﻧﺤّ ﻲ ﺟﺎﻧﺒﺎً اﻹﻛﺴﺴﻮار‬
‫أن ﺗﻀﻔﻲ ﻟﻤﺴﺎت ﺟﺪﻳﺪة‬ ‫اﻟﻐﺮﻳﺐ واﻟﻤﻜﻴﺎج اﻟﺒﺮوﻧﺰي‬
‫ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷﺟﻮاء اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻤﻸ أرﺟﺎءﻫﺎ‬ ‫وﺧﺼﻼت اﻟﺸﻌﺮ اﻟﻤﺘﻄﺎﻳﺮة‪،‬‬
‫اﻷﻏﺎﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻮﺣﺎة ﻣﻦ ﻣﻠﻬﻰ‬ ‫واﺳﺘﻌﻴﻨﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻮﺳﻢ‬
‫اﺳﺘﻮدﻳﻮ ‪ ÌÍ‬ﻟﻠﺪﻳﺴﻜﻮ‬ ‫ﺑﺈﻃﻼﻟﺔ اﻟﺪﻧﻴﻢ اﻟﻜﺎﻣﻠﺔ‡ ﺗﻀﻔﻲ‬
‫ﺳﺘﺮة أﻟﻜﺴﻨﺪر ﻣﻜﻮﻳﻦ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻔﻜﻜﺔ ﻟﻤﺴﺎت ﻋﺼﺮﻳﺔ –‬ ‫ّ‬
‫أﻗﺮﻧﻴﻬﺎ ﺑﻘﻼدة ﻣﻦ اﻟﻠﺆﻟﺆ‬

‫ﺑﻌﻴﺪاً ﻋﻦ ﻳﺎﻗﺘﻪ اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻘﺔ‪ ،‬ﻳﻤﺘﺎز ﻫﺬا اﻟﻘﻤﻴﺺ‬

‫اﻟﺤﺮﻳﺮي اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻞ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻴﺘﺮ ﺑﻴﺘﺮوڤ ﺑﻨﻘﺎط‬
‫ﺑﺤﺠﻤﻬﺎ اﻟﻮاﺳﻊ وﺗﺼﻤﻴﻤﻬﺎ اﻟﺮاﺋﻊ‬
‫اﺧﺘﺮﻧﺎ ﻟﻚ‬
‫ﻣﺎ اﻟﺼﻴﺤﺎت اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة‬
‫وﻣﻘﺎﺑﻀﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﻴﺰران وﻃﺒﻌﺔ‬
‫ﺑﻴﻀﺎء ﻣﺘﻔﺮﻗﺔ ‪ -‬وﻫﻮ ﺑﺪﻳﻞ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻟﻸﻗﻤﺸﺔ‬
‫اﻟﻤﺮﻗﻄﺔ وﻳﻤﻜﻦ ارﺗﺪاؤه ﺑﻄﺮق ﻣﺘﻨﻮﻋﺔ‬
‫اﻟﻤﺮﺑﻌﺎت اﻟﻔﺮﻳﺪة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻤﻴّﺰﻫﺎ‪ ،‬ﺗﻔﻲ ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺔ‬
‫راﻧﺎواي ﻣﻦ ﻓﻨﺪي ﺑﺠﻤﻴﻊ ﻣﺘﻄﻠﺒﺎﺗﻚِ‬ ‫إﻟﻴﻚ ﻋﺸﺮ‬‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﺮﺑﻴﻊ؟ ِ‬
‫ﻗﻄﻊ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة ﺗﺠ ّﺪد ﺧﺰاﻧﺔ‬
‫ﻣﻼﺑﺴﻚ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻔﻮر‬
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‫اﻧﺘﻌﻠﻲ ُﺧ ّﻔﺎً ﻣﻔﺘﻮﺣﺎً‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻷﻣﺎم ﺑﺄﻟﻮان‬
‫ﻻﻓﺘﺔ ﻣﻊ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻔﺴﺘﺎن‬
‫ذي اﻷﻛﻤﺎم اﻟﺒﺎرزة‬
‫اﻟﺬي ﻳﺘﺴﻢ ﺑﺄﻧﺎﻗﺔ‬
‫ﻋﻔﻮﻳﺔ ‪ -‬وﻫﻮ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻻ ﺳﺒﻴﻞ ﻟﻤﻘﺎوﻣﺔ ﺳﺤﺮ اﻷﺣﺬﻳﺔ ذات‬
‫ﻋﻼﻣﺔ ‪ SEA‬وﻣﺘﺎح ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﻜﻌﺐ اﻟﻘﺼﻴﺮ‪ ،‬وﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﻓﻲ رﺑﻴﻊ وﺻﻴﻒ‬
‫ﻣﻮﻗﻊ ‪SHOPBOP‬‬ ‫‹Š‰ˆ‡ وﻫﺬا اﻟﺤﺬاء اﻷﺑﻴﺾ اﻟﻤﺰود ﺑﺤﺰام‬
‫ﺧﻠﻔﻲ ﻣﻦ ﭬﻴﻜﺘﻮرﻳﺎ ﺑﻴﻜﻬﺎم ﻳﻀﻔﻲ‬
‫ﺟﺎذﺑﻴﺔ وﻣﻈﻬﺮاً أﻧﺜﻮﻳﺎً ﻣﻦ دون ﻣﺒﺎﻟﻐﺔ‬

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‫‪BALENCIAGA‬‬
‫ﺗﻨﻮرة ﻣﻦ‬
‫‪NOON BY‬‬
‫‪NOOR‬‬

‫ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺔ ﻣﻦ ‪BAIA‬‬

‫ﻣﻬﻤﺔ‬
‫ّ‬
‫أرﺟﻮاﻧﻴﺔ‬
‫‪GUCCI‬‬

‫ﺣﻘﻴﺒﺔ ﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ ‪CHANEL‬‬
‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻠﻴﻠﻜﻲ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺒﻨﻔﺴﺠﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻃﻊ‬
‫ّ‬
‫اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻞ واﻋﺘﻤﺪﻳﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﺧﺘﺎري درﺟﺎت ﻟﻮﻧﻚ‬
‫ﻣﻦ رأﺳﻚ إﻟﻰ أﺧﻤﺺ ﻗﺪﻣﻴﻚ‬

‫‪TIBI‬‬
‫ﻧﻈﺎرة‬
‫ﺷﻤﺴﻴﺔ‬
‫ﻣﻦ ‪TOM‬‬
‫‪FORD‬‬
‫‪SALVATORE FERRAGAMO‬‬

‫ﺑﻨﻄﻠﻮن ﻣﻦ ‪J. CREW‬‬

‫ﺗﻨﻮرة ﻣﻦ‬
‫‪MADIYAH‬‬
‫ﺗﻮب ﻣﻦ ‪CHLOÉ‬‬
‫‪AL SHARQI‬‬
‫‪ROCHAS‬‬

‫ﻋﺎل‬
‫ﺣﺬاء ﺑﻜﻌﺐ ٍ‬
‫ﻣﻦ ‪TOPSHOP‬‬

‫ﺣﺬاء ﻣﻦ ‪DORATEYMUR‬‬
‫ﻟﺪى ‪THE MODIST‬‬

‫†…‬
‫في الواجهة‪Upfront‬‬

‫تتط ـرّق إل ــى الموض ــة األخالقية (المس ــتدامة)! يمكن عندها‬
‫أن أتقاع ــد»‪.‬‬
‫توافــق ليفيــا علــى أنّ عملهــا حمّ ــل الموضــة قيمــاً‬
‫وجعله ــا موضوع ـاً مثي ـراً لالهتم ــام‪« ،‬أؤم ــن ب ــأنّ إيك ــو‪ -‬إي ــدج‬
‫نجح ــت بج ــدارة ف ــي ه ــذه المهم ــة»‪ .‬ه ــذا ال ــدور ال ــذي صنعت ــه‬
‫لنفس ــها منحه ــا الق ــوة ورس ــم ص ــورة واضح ــة لبحثه ــا عن‬
‫العدال ــة االجتماعي ــة‪ ،‬لكنها ليس ــت دوم اً راضي ــة عمّ ا حققته‪،‬‬
‫«لس ــت دوم ـاً راضي ــة تمام ـاً‪ ،‬بالرغ ــم م ــن أنن ــا حققن ــا الكثي ــر‬
‫ف ــي إيك ــو إي ــدج‪ .‬إال أنن ــي أعت ــرف ب ــأن عمل ــي ه ــذا يمنحن ــي‬
‫الق ــوة ويؤث ــر ف ــي المس ــتقبل»‪.‬‬
‫تع ّب ــر ليفي ــا ع ــن أفكارها‬
‫بجــرأة وشــفافية‪ .‬لقــد‬ ‫مهما كانت األوقات التي نتجاوزها‬
‫ت رّب ــت عل ــى ه ــذه الص راح ــة‬
‫المبنيــة علــى عــدم‬ ‫صعبة ٌّ‬
‫كل منا هو صخرة اآلخر‪ .‬وأنا ال‬
‫الخــوف مــن المواجهــة‪،‬‬
‫«طالمــا ع بّــرت عــن آرائــي‬ ‫أخاف من الحقيقة بل أعتبرها قوتي‬
‫بشــفافية‪ ،‬فأنــا ال أخــاف‬
‫م ــن الحقيق ــة‪ ،‬ب ــل ه ــي أه ــم س ــالح يمك ــن أن نتمس ــك ب ــه‪ .‬أعتق ــد أنن ــا نعي ــش‬
‫مرحل ــة تاريخي ــة حساس ــة ومهمّ ــة‪ ،‬فالنس ــاء اآلن يتحدث ــن جه ـراً ويكش ــفن‬
‫الحقيق ــة‪ ،‬لنع ــرف أنن ــا لس ــن وحي ــدات»‪ .‬دعم النس ــاء أح ــد أهمّ جوان ــب عمل ليفيا‪،‬‬
‫وق ــد ضمّ ــت جهوده ــا إل ــى جه ــود المغني ــة حاص ــدة الجوائ ــز آن ــي لينوك ــس الت ــي‬
‫أسس ــت الجمعي ــة غي ــر الربحي ــة «ذي س ــيركل» الهادف ــة إل ــى تمكي ــن النس ــاء‪.‬‬
‫نس ــألها‪ ،‬ه ــل كون ــك ام ــرأة جع ــل قضيت ــك عالمي ــة وملحّ ــة؟ «نع ــم‪ ،‬ألن النس ــاء‬
‫يتس ــوقن أكث ــر م ــن الرج ــال! لك ــن أيض ـاً‪ ،‬إذا نظرن ــا إل ــى القضي ــة بعي ــن النس ــوية‪،‬‬
‫يج ــب أن نك ــون نس ــويات عالمي ــات ونفك ــر ف ــي النس ــاء اللوات ــي يصنع ــن أزياءن ــا‪.‬‬
‫لســن مختلفــات عنــا‪ ،‬ويجــب أن نحميهــن ونحترمهــن»‪.‬‬
‫س ـ ّر آخ ــر س ــألناها عن ــه بع ــد العاصف ــة الت ــي ه بّت عل ــى عالقتها بزوجه ــا النجم‪:‬‬
‫كي ــف توصلتم ــا إل ــى ه ــذه الش ـراكة المتين ــة برغ ــم اإلغ ـراءات واألض ــواء المض لّل ــة‬
‫وظ ــروف العم ــل؟ «الس ـ ّر ه ــو معرف ــة كل من ــا نق ــاط الضع ــف ل ــدى اآلخ ـر‪ ،‬وأن‬
‫يدع ــم أحدن ــا اآلخ ـر‪ ،‬مهم ــا كان ــت األوق ــات الت ــي نتجاوزه ــا صعب ــة‪ ،‬فف ــي نهاي ــة األم ــر‬
‫كل من ــا ه ــو صخ ــرة اآلخ ــر»‪☐ .‬‬
‫أناقة وتوهّ ج يحترمان البيئة‬
‫التــي أدمناهــا ال يمكــن تحمّ لهــا وال يمكــن أن تــدوم‪:‬‬
‫تأثيره ــا س ــيء ف ــي البيئ ــة الت ــي تعان ــي أذاه ــا الرهي ــب‪ ،‬وف ــي‬
‫البش ــر م ــن خ ــالل العمال ــة المس ــتغ لّة الت ــي تص ــل إل ــى ح ــد‬
‫العبودي ــة عل ــى مس ــتوى العال ــم‪ ،‬وف ــي جيوبن ــا‪ ،‬فنحن ننفق‬
‫الكثي ــر عل ــى أش ــياء ال نحتاجه ــا وال نحتف ــظ به ــا ألن ال ــدورة‬
‫س ــريعة إل ــى أبع ــد الح ــدود‪ .‬أظ ــنّ أن الس ــردية ب ــدأت بالتغ ّي ر‪،‬‬
‫إذا نظرن ــا إل ــى الموض ــة الس ــريعة ف ــي ش ــكل خ ــاص (ه ــي‬
‫األزي ــاء الت ــي تصن ــع س ــريع اً)‪ ،‬ف ــإن أرباحه ــا ب ــدأت باالنخف ــاض‬
‫للمــرة األولــى منــذ أرســت وجودهــا‪ .‬بــدأ النــاس يقللــون‬
‫ليفيا فيرث‬
‫وزوجها‬
‫مش ــترياتهم ويهتمّ ــون بالنوعي ــة‪ ،‬ويع ــون أهمي ــة الع ــودة‬
‫كولن فيرث‬ ‫إلــى شــراء مــا يمكــن أن يعتبــروه اســتثماراً‪ .‬كل تقريــر‬
‫نق ــرأه اآلن يش ــير إل ــى أمري ــن‪ :‬أبن ــاء الجي ــل «زد» مهتمّ ــون‬
‫بالقص ــص الت ــي أدت إل ــى والدة المنت ــج‪ ،‬والمس ــتهلكون في‬
‫ش ــكل ع ــام يري ــدون فرص ـاً جدي ــدة»‪.‬‬
‫كأنّ ليفي ــا تتب ــع إلهام ـاً يمنحه ــا الق ــدرة عل ــى المض ــي ف ــي‬
‫المهم ــة‪« .‬اس ــتوحيت اإلله ــام م ــن النس ــاء والرج ــال الذي ــن‬
‫التقيته ــم خالل أس ــفاري إل ــى بنغالدش وكمبودي ــا وزامبيا‪.‬‬
‫قص ــص االس ــتغالل واإلس ــاءة الت ــي يس ــردونها تدفعن ــي إل ــى تمهي ــد خريط ــة‬
‫الطري ــق نح ــو موض ــة واعي ــة وأخالقي ــة‪ .‬كما يلهمن ــي فريق عم ــل إيكو‪-‬إي ــدج ال رائع‪،‬‬
‫واألش ــخاص الذي ــن نتع ــاون معه ــم مث ــل كارولي ــن ش ــوفيل الرئيس ــة والمدي ــرة‬
‫اإلبداعي ــة لمجوه ـرات ش ــوبار الت ــي أقدم ــت بج ــرأة عل ــى ترس ــيخ ش ــبكة إم ــدادات‬
‫ت راع ــي ش ــروط العم ــل األخالق ــي جاعل ـ ًة ش ــوبار أول دار مجوه ـرات وس ــاعات‬
‫تح ّق ــق ه ــدف الذه ــب النظي ــف (أخالقي ـاً) مئ ــة ف ــي المئ ــة»‪.‬‬
‫قلن ــا إنن ــا يج ــب أن نب ــدأ التغيي ــر م ــن م ــكان م ــا‪ ،‬وف ــي عال ــم الموضة تس ــود ثقافة‬
‫اتب ــاع أح ــدث الصيح ــات‪ ،‬فه ــل نب ــدأ بالمس ــتهلكين أو بم ــن يطلق ــون الصيح ــات؟‬
‫«نبــدأ بالجميــع!» تقــول ليفيــا بحــزم‪« ،‬بمطلقــي الصيحــات والمســتهلكين‪،‬‬
‫بالرئي ــس التنفي ــذي أو ب ــأي كان‪ ...‬ك لّ ن ــا مواطن ــون‪ .‬فلنب ــدأ بالمواطني ــن‪ ...‬أما في ما‬
‫ـص الصيح ــات‪ ،‬فأن ــا أكرهه ــا‪ .‬وال أح ــب أن أرت ــدي م ــا يرتدي ــه الجمي ــع! أذك ــر م ــا‬ ‫يخ ـ ّ‬
‫قالت ــه ل ــي ال راحل ــة ف ران ــكا س ــوتزاني (رئيس ــة تحري ــر ڤ ــوغ إيطالي ــا)‪« :‬ليفي ــا‪ ،‬ال أرتدي‬
‫الصيح ــة األح ــدث‪ ،‬فه ــي مم لّــة للغاي ــة»‪.‬‬
‫حس ــن اً‪ ،‬فلنتش ــجّ ع عل ــى تغيي ــر عالقتن ــا باألزي ــاء الت ــي نش ــتريها‪ ،‬خصوص ـا تل ــك‬
‫ً‬
‫الت ــي نقتنيه ــا وال نرتديه ــا‪ .‬نري ــد أن نع ــرف كي ــف نصب ــح مس ــتهلكين‬
‫أخالقييــن؟ تســارع ليفيــا إلــى اإلجابــة‪« :‬خفضــوا مشــترياتكم‪،‬‬
‫واطرحــوا األســئلة وكونــوا فضولييــن‪ .‬أستشــهد دومــاً بمــا قالتــه‬
‫آلــي هوســون (الناشــطة وســيدة األعمــال زوجــة الفنــان بونــو)‪:‬‬
‫نحــن نرتــدي قصــص األشــخاص الذيــن صنعــوا أزياءنــا‪ .‬وأنــا واثقــة‬
‫م ــن أنن ــا جميع ـاً نري ــد أن نرت ــدي قصص ـاً جميل ــة‪ .‬وق ــد ب ــدأ الن ــاس يع ــون‬
‫ويس ــألون‪ ،‬لك ــن المش ــكلة ه ــي أن الموض ــة الس ــريعة تتط ـوّر م ــع‬
‫اس ــت راتيجيات التواص ــل (المعلوم ــات) الت ــي تض لّــل الن ــاس‪ .‬فلي ــس م ــن‬
‫مصلح ــة الق يّمي ــن عل ــى ه ــذه الصناع ــة والتج ــار أن نتوق ــف ع ــن ش ـراء‬
‫األزي ــاء المن ّف ــذة بس ــرعة مجنون ــة‪ ،‬وبكميات هائل ــة‪ ،‬خصوص ـاً أنّ نموذج‬
‫عمله ــم قائ ــم عل ــى ه ــذه الفرضي ــة‪ .‬ل ــذا ف ــإنّ س ــالحنا األق ــوى ه ــو أن‬
‫نخفــف االســتهالك»‪.‬‬
‫لنش ــر ثقاف ــة االكتف ــاء عل ــى نط ــاق واس ــع‪ ،‬ال ب ــد م ــن اللج ــوء إل ــى‬
‫منصّ ــات التواص ــل االجتماع ــي برغ ــم أنه ــا تجع ــل البع ــض مهووس ــين‬
‫ـى‬ ‫بالمظه ـر‪« .‬منصّ ــات التواص ــل االجتماع ــي س ــالح مه ــمّ أس ــعى إل ـ‬
‫الصــور‪REX, GETTY :‬‬

‫من اليسار جيزيل بوندشين خالل حفلة توزيع جوائز السجادة الخضراء‬
‫في ميالنو‪ .‬ليفيا فيرث مع دوقة كامبريدج وستيال مكارتني وآنا وينتور‬ ‫اس ــتخدامه لصال ــح الخي ــر الع ــام وألض ــمّ إل ــى مش ــروعنا المزي ــد م ــن‬
‫النــاس‪ .‬تخ يّلــي مــا يمكــن أن يحــدث إذا قــررت كيــم كارداشــيان أن‬

‫‪17‬‬
 ‫تتع ّدد أدوار ليفيا فيرث‬
‫المنتجة والناشطة‬
‫في مجاالت عدة‪،‬‬
‫من البيئة إلى حقوق‬
‫اإلنسان وقضايا‬
‫المرأة‪ ،‬من دون أن‬
‫ننسى دورها في‬
‫حياة الممثل القدير‬
‫كولن فيرث وولديهما‬
‫بقلم ‪HALA KAWSARANI‬‬

‫تلب ــي رغب ــات المس ــتهلكين‪ .‬وج ــدت ليفي ــا قضيته ــا ع ــن طري ــق الموض ــة‪ ،‬إال أنّ‬
‫الموض ــة ل ــم تلع ــب دوراً مهم ـاً ف ــي نش ــأتها «ك ــي أك ــون صادق ــة يج ــب أن أعت ــرف‬
‫بأ ّن ن ــي ل ــم أهت ــمّ بالموض ــة خ ــالل نش ــأتي‪ .‬ل ــم أك ــن يوم ـاً «فاشونيس ــتا»‪ ،‬ول ــم‬
‫أس ــارع إل ــى ش ـراء كل جدي ــد‪ ،‬ب ــل كن ــت أتس ـوّق باعت ــدال وأهت ــمّ ب ــأن ألب ــس‬
‫األزي ــاء الت ــي أش ــتريها وب ــأن تك ــون ذات نوعية تس ــمح لي باالس ــتفادة منه ــا وقت اً‬
‫طوي ـ ًال‪ .‬أصبح ــت الموض ــة مهم ــة ف ــي حيات ــي عندم ــا فهم ــت تأثي ــر م ــا نرتدي ــه ف ــي‬
‫البيئ ــة والن ــاس»‪.‬‬
‫لوهل ــة يب ــدو ط ــرح ليفي ــا في ــرث س ــوريالي اً ف ــي زم ــن االقتص ــاد المعول ــم وال ــذي‬
‫يش ــكل إدم ــان االس ــتهالك أح ــد أب ــرز ركائ ــزه‪ .‬وهي تطرح فك ــرة مؤثرة وج ــدا ًال ال‬
‫يمك ــن دحض ــه ع ــن العالق ــة بي ــن اس ــتغالل البش ــر والبيئة وم ــا تس ــمّ يه «الموضة‬
‫الس ــريعة»‪ .‬لك ــن كي ــف تمك ــن مواجه ــة ه ــذه الرغب ــة العارم ــة ف ــي االس ــتهالك‬
‫وإدم ــان الحاج ــة إل ــى المزي ــد؟ «يج ــب أن نب ــدأ م ــن م ــكان م ــا‪ ،‬ف ــدورة االس ــتهالك‬
‫ليفي ــا في ــرث ام ــرأة قوي ــة ل ــم تستس ــلم إلغ ـراءات الش ــهرة‪ .‬فالمنتج ــة اإليطالي ــة‬
‫والناش ــطة الجريئ ــة ه ــي زوج ــة النج ــم البريطان ــي كول ــن في ــرث‪ ،‬إال أنه ــا رس ــمت‬
‫وتمس ــكت بالقضي ــة الت ــي أصبح ــت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لنفس ــها أهداف ـاً بعي ــداً ع ــن امتي ــازات زوجه ــا‬
‫محــور حياتهــا المهنيــة وخدمــت قضايــا البيئــة والمــرأة والعدالــة االجتماعيــة‬
‫الت ــي ش ــغلتها‪ .‬في ــرث ه ــي المؤسس ــة والمدي ــرة اإلبداعي ــة إليك ــو إي ــدج‪ ،‬ش ــركة‬
‫االستشــارات التــي ترشــد العالمــات ودور المجوهــرات واألزيــاء إلــى كيفيــة‬
‫التطــوّر مــع وعــي شــروط االســتدامة والتأثيــر اإليجابــي فــي البيئــة‪ .‬وهــي‬
‫الشــركة نفســها التــي أطلقــت جوائــز الســجادة الخضــراء للموضــة وتحــدي‬
‫السجادةالخض راء‪.‬‬
‫يح ـرّك ليفي ــا ش ــعور بالمس ــؤولية تج ــاه ظل ــم يتع رّض ل ــه اإلنس ــان والطبيعة‪،‬‬
‫وق ــد رفض ــت أن تق ــف مكتوف ــة اليدي ــن بع ــد م ــا رأت ــه ف ــي بنغ ــالدش م ــن اس ــتغالل‬
‫للبش ــر وللنس ــاء ف ــي ش ــكل خ ــاص ألج ــل ض ـ ّـخ كمي ــات هائل ــة م ــن األزي ــاء الت ــي‬
‫المساهمون‪Contributors‬‬

‫ماريا غراتسيا كيوري‬
‫تقول ماريا غراتسيا كيوري‪ ،‬وهي أول امرأة تتولّى‬
‫منصباً قيادياً في ديور حيث تشغل وظيفة المديرة‬
‫الفنيّة للدار‪« :‬أرى التراث مهماً‪ ،‬ولكني أريد التقدم‬
‫بالدار إلى األمام‪ .‬ورؤيتي تنصبّ على ما يسهل‬
‫ارتداؤه»‪ .‬وكانت كيوري‪ ،‬التي نشأت في روما ألم‬
‫تعمل خيّاطة‪ ،‬قد شغفت بالتصميم منذ عمر مبكر‪،‬‬
‫وقادها شغفها إلى الدراسة في معهد إستيتوتو‬
‫أوروبيو دي ديزاين‪ .‬والتحقت بالعمل في دار فندي‬
‫سنة ‪ ،1989‬وأمضت عشر سنوات هناك قبل أن‬
‫تنتقل إلى دار ڤالنتينو كمصممة لإلكسسوارات‪،‬‬
‫ثم تم تعيينها مدير ًة إبداعي ًة مساعد ًة إلى جانب‬
‫شريكها اإلبداعي بييرباولو بيتشولي‪ .‬وخالل فترة‬
‫عمل كيوري في الدار اإليطالية‪ ،‬نجحت ڤالنتينو في أن‬
‫تحتل الصدارة في عالم الموضة مجدداً‪ ،‬ولكن عملها‬
‫حسها‬ ‫كمديرة إبداعية لديور هو ما أتاح لها إظهار ّ‬
‫األنثوي وإعادة تشكيل العالمة وإعدادها للقرن‬
‫الحادي والعشرين‪ .‬وأصبحت التيشيرتات التي طبعت‬
‫عليها عبارة «يجب أن نكون جميعاً نسويات» قطعاً‬
‫تتهافت عليها النجمات‪ ،‬وأُهديت نسبة من عائدات‬
‫بيعها إلى المؤسسة الخيرية التي أسستها ريهانا‬
‫باسم كالرا ليونيل فاونديشن‪ .‬وقد أجرت حواراً‬
‫مع نجمة الغالف أَ ُدوَا أَ ُبوَا (ص ‪ )1٠٢‬ناقش قيم الثقة‬
‫والسعادة‪ ،‬وأهمية تمكين الجيل الجديد من النساء‪.‬‬
‫كاس بيرد‬
‫تخرجت المصوِّرة كاس بيرد‪ ،‬التي‬
‫ولدت في لوس أنجليس وتقيم حالياً‬
‫في نيويورك‪ ،‬في كلية سميث كوليدج‬
‫وبدأت مسيرتها المهنية بالتقاط صور‬
‫للنجوم والنجمات الصاعدين‪ .‬وعملت‬
‫عالمتي جيمي تشو وكالڤن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بعدها مع‬
‫ً‬
‫كالين‪ ،‬والتقطت صورا ألشهر األسماء‬
‫في عالم الفن‪ ،‬وثقافة البوب‪ ،‬والموضة‪،‬‬
‫مثل جاي زي‪ ،‬وكارين إلسون‪ ،‬وأندرو‬
‫غارفيلد‪ ،‬وميشيل أوباما‪ .‬وقد ميّز‬
‫منهجها –الذي يستند دائماً إلى مفهوم‬
‫حسها الجمالي‬ ‫«التواصل مع الناس»– َّ‬
‫ووسع من حدود مفاهيم األنوثة‬ ‫اليافع ّ‬
‫والذكورة لديها‪ .‬وعن ذلك تقول‪« :‬أحب‬
‫أن ِّ‬
‫أشكل بيئة تتيح لنا المجازفة‪،‬‬
‫والشعور بالحرية»‪.‬‬
‫ّ‬

‫‪1٥‬‬
‫ﻛﻠﻤﺔ اﻟﺘﺤﺮﻳﺮ‪Editor’s Letter‬‬

‫أدوا أﺑﻮا ﺗﺮﺗﺪي‬

‫»ﺑﻮدي ﺳﻮت«‬
‫وﺗﻨﻮرة وﺗﻨﺘﻌﻞ‬
‫ﺣﺬاء ﻃﻮﻳﻞ اﻟﺴﺎق‬

‫ﻋﺎرﺿﺔ اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴﺮ‬
‫وﺗﺘﺰﻳّﻦ ﺑﺠﻮاﻫﺮ‪،‬‬
‫ﻛﻠّﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ ‪DIOR‬‬

‫أذﻛﺮ ﺗﻤﺎﻣﺎً ﻳﻮم ﻟﻤﺤﺖ أدوا أﺑﻮا ﻟﻠﻤﺮة اﻷوﻟﻰ‪ ،‬ﻛﺄ ّﻧﻪ اﻟﺒﺎرﺣﺔ رأﻳﺘﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺎدة ﺟﻮرج اﻟﺨﺎﻣﺲ ﻓﻲ ﺑﺎرﻳﺲ‪ ،‬وﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬
‫اﻟﻌﺎرﺿﺔ ﺗﻘﻒ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻤ ّﺮ وﺗﺪﺧﻦ ﺳﻴﺠﺎرة ﺑﻬﺪوء وﻧﻈﺮاً ﻟﻘﺮب ﻣﺮﻛﺰ دﻳﻮر اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴﻲ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻜﺎن ﻟﻘﺎﺋﻨﺎ أﺗﺨ ّﻴﻞ أﻧﻬﺎ‬
‫ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﻨﺘﻈﺮ ﺟﻠﺴﺔ اﻟﻘﻴﺎس ﻗﺒﻞ ﻋﺮض ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻤﻮﺳﻢ ﺛﻢ ﺑﻌﺪ ﺷﻬﻮر ﻗﻠﻴﻠﺔ اﻟﺘﻘﻴﺘﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻛﻮاﻟﻴﺲ ﻋﺮض ﻓﻨﺪي‬
‫ﻓﻲ ﻣﻴﻼﻧﻮ ﺑﻌﺪﻣﺎ اﺗﻔﻘﺖ ﻣﻊ ﻣﻤﺜﻠﻴﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ أﻧﻬﺎ ﺳﺘﻜﻮن ﻧﺠﻤﺔ ﻋﺪدﻧﺎ اﻟﻤﻘﺒﻞ ﻓﻲ وﻗﺖ ﻗﺼﻴﺮ أﺛﺒﺘﺖ ﻟﻲ ﻛﻠﻤﺎﺗﻬﺎ‬
‫ﺗﻤﺜﻠﻬﺎ ﭬﻮغ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﺧﺼﻮﺻ ﺎً ﻓﻲ ﻋﺪد ﻣﻬﺪى إﻟﻰ ﻣﺴﺘﻘﺒﻞ اﻟﻤﻮﺿﺔ ﻟﻴﺴﺖ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻌ ّﺒﺮة أﻧﻬﺎ ﻧﻤﻮذج ﻟﻠﻤﺮأة اﻟﺘﻲ ّ‬
‫ً‬
‫أﺑﻮا ﺻﺎﺣﺒﺔ وﺟﻪ ﺟﻤﻴﻞ ﻓﺤﺴﺐ ﺑﻞ ﻫﻲ أﻳﻀ ﺎ ﻣﺆﺳﺴﺔ ‪º‬ﻏﻴﺮﻟﺰ ﺗﻮك·‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ ﻣﺴﺎﺣﺔ ﺗﻄﻤﺢ إﻟﻰ اﻻﺣﺘﻔﺎل‬
‫ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺔ‪ ،‬ﻋﺒﺮ ﻣﻨﺤﻬﻦ ﻣﻨﺼّ ﺎت ﻟﻄﺮح‬ ‫ﺑﺘﻤﻜﻴﻦ اﻟﻨﺴﺎء‪ ،‬ﺑﻤﺴﺎﻋﺪة اﻟﺴﻮﺷﺎل ﻣﻴﺪﻳﺎ وﻣﻮﻗﻊ إﻟﻜﺘﺮوﻧﻲ وﻣﻨﺎﺳﺒﺎت ّ‬
‫اﻟﻨﻘﺎﺷﺎت واﻵراء‬
‫ﻓﻲ ﺟﻠﺴﺔ ﺗﺒﺎدل أﻓﻜﺎر ﻣﻊ اﻟﻔﺮﻳﻖ ﺣﻮل ﺣﻀﻮر أﺑﻮا ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺠﻠﺔ‪ ،‬ﺑﺪت واﺿﺤﺔ أﻫﻤﻴﺔ أن ﺗﺤﺎور ﻧﺠﻤ  َﺔ اﻟﻌﺪد‬
‫ﺮأة ﻗﻮﻳﺔ وﻳﺸﺮّﻓﻨﻲ أن ﺗﻜﻮن اﻟﻤﺪﻳﺮة اﻹﺑﺪاﻋﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ دار دﻳﻮر ﻣﺎرﻳﺎ ﻏﺮاﺗﺴﻴﺎ ﻛﻴﻮري ﻗﺪ ﺣﺎورت أﺑﻮا وﻛﺸﻔﺖ‬ ‫اﻣ ٌ‬
‫اﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮ ﻋﻦ اﻟﺘﺰاﻣﻬﺎ اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻲ‬
‫ً‬
‫أول اﻣﺮأة ﻋﻠﻰ رأس دﻳﻮر ﺧﻼل أﻛﺜﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺳﺒﻌﻴﻦ ﻋﺎﻣ ﺎ‪ ،‬ﻛﻴﻮري ﺑﻄﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋﻴﻨ ّﻲ‪ ،‬ﻫﻲ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺒﺪع ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺎت‬
‫ﺗﻨﺴﺠﻢ ﻣﻊ إﻳﻤﺎﻧﻲ ﺑﺄنّ اﻟﻤﻮﺿﺔ ﻟﻴﺴﺖ أزﻳﺎء ﻓﻘﻂ‪ ،‬ﺑﻞ ﺣﺎﻓﺰ ﻧﺤﻮ اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﻳﺴﻌﺪﻧﻲ أن أرى اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺼﻤّ ﻤﻴﻦ‬
‫واﻟﻌﺎرﺿﺎت واﻟﻌﺎرﺿﻴﻦ وﻏﻴﺮﻫﻢ ﻣﻦ أﻫﻞ اﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ ﻳﺴﺘﺜﻤﺮون ﺷﻬﺮﺗﻬﻢ وإﻣﻜﺎﻧﺎﺗﻬﻢ ﻟﺨﺪﻣﺔ ﻣﺎ ﻳﺆﻣﻨﻮن ﺑﻪ‬
‫ﻳﺸ ﺮّﻓﻨﺎ أﻳﻀ ﺎً أن ﺗﺨﺘﺎر ﺻﺎﺣﺒﺔ اﻟﺴﻤﻮ اﻷﻣﻴﺮ ﻧﻮرة ﺑﻨﺖ ﻓﻴﺼﻞ آل ﺳﻌﻮد ﭬﻮغ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ ﻟﺘﻜﺸﻒ ﺣﺼﺮﻳ ﺎً ﻋﻦ‬
‫ﺧﻄﻄﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺘﻌﻠّﻘﺔ ﺑﺄول أﺳﺒﻮع ﻟﻠﻤﻮﺿﺔ ﺗﺸﻬﺪه اﻟﺴﻌﻮدﻳﺔ اﻟﺤﺪث اﻟﻀﺨﻢ واﻟﻤﻨﺘﻈﺮ ﺳﻴﻀﻢّ ﻋﺮوض ﻣﺼﻤّ ﻤﻴﻦ‬
‫ﻣﻜﺮّﺳﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘﺔ وآﺧﺮﻳﻦ ﻋﺎﻟﻤﻴﻴﻦ ﻟﻢ ﻳﺴﺒﻖ ﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﺒﻞ اﻟﻤﻮﺿﺔ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ أن ﺑﺪا ﺳﺎﻃﻌﺎً إﻟﻰ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺤﺪ‬
‫اﻟﺼﻮرة ‪CASS BIRD‬‬

‫‪Manuel Arnaut‬‬

‫‪ÒÓ‬‬
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