Vogue Australia - 02 2018

DAKOTA
FANNING
Acting royalty
& our latest
screen crush PERFECT FIT
Fashion’s
new sporty
The workout
that’s good
for our skin
Why we
still love
date-night
dressing
f u l l b l o o M
N E W S TO R E O P E N : C H A D S TO N E
S Y D N E Y • M E L B O U R N E C O L L I N S S T R E E T A N D C RO W N • B R I S B A N E • G O L D C O A S T
CONTENTS
February 2018
Dakota Fanning wears a Gucci

dress, top and leggings. On
right hand: The Shiny Squirrel
ring. Konstantino ring. On left
hand: The Shiny Squirrel rings.
Doyle & Doyle ring. Make-up
from Marc Jacobs Beauty,
starting with Re(marc)able
Full Cover Foundation
Concentrate in Ivory Medium;
on eyes, Magic Marc’er
Precision Pen Waterproof
Liquid Eyeliner and Velvet Noir
Major Volume Mascara; on
cheeks, Air Blush in Lines &
Last Night; on lips, Le Marc Lip
Crème Lipstick in Georgie Girl.
Fragrance: Gucci Bloom EDP.
Stylist: Natasha Royt
Photographer:
Emma Summerton
Hair: Serge Normant
Make-up: Jeanine Lobell
Manicure: Yuko Tsuchihashi
Set design: Viki Rutsch
22 EDITOR’S LETTER 48 66
24 CONTRIBUTORS Pumped up; From the waist; Crystal clear. TAKE ME OUT
26 THIS MONTH ON VOGUE.COM.AU 52 Is getting dressed up for a date too last millennium?
ICONS WILL BE ICONS 68
28 VOGUE VIDEO
Paul Andrew has excelled at Ferragamo as the SURF’S UP
30 VOGUE VAULT
designer of its super-slinky womenswear shoes. California’s surf culture and an Australian
Now he is stepping up to a new role. upbringing come together in a new Malibu hotel.
Viewpoint 56
34 SMALLS WONDER Beauty
HOT BUTTONS Lingerie-as-clothing is on show as fashion’s 74
Meet the shirt’s rework, a refreshed re-entry current fetish. HARDER, BETTER, FASTER,
into the style lexicon. 58 BRIGHTER
42 CLICK INTO PLACE It may be possible to work out and wake up
VOL LXIII NO 2 WHOLE NO 644 *RECOMMENDED PRICE
CODES BLUE Yoox Net-A-Porter Group president Alison with younger-looking skin. What better reason
What do athleisure and denim have in common? Loehnis’s position as an innovator and influencer to renew your gym membership?
They’re both modern-day wardrobe bedrock. seemed destined from the outset. 78
46 62 BETTER TOGETHER
FRONT RUNNER MR BRIGHTSIDE Jodhi Meares and Nadia Fairfax on their
Earn your stripes with linear details. Michael Kors, the eternal fashion optimist. collaboration for The Upside.
12 FEBRUARY 2018
inspiring.
On the court since the age of three,
her focus and determination to be
the best have never wavered. Driven
by a true love for her sport, she strives
for her finest performance every
time she plays. Her powerful and
passionate style of play has earned
her two Grand Slam® titles, her first
at the French Open in 2016 and most
recently at The 2017 Championships,
Wimbledon. Rolex is proud of its
‘‘ YOU HAVE TO BE association with Garbiñe Muguruza,

whose journey to the top of the
STRONG tennis world is just beginning. It
doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.
AND KEEP FIGHTING FOR WHAT
YOU WANT.
IN THE END,
THE HARD WORK WILL

PAY OFF. ’’
oyster perpetual 34
CONTENTS
February 2018
80 152
Starting line; Pushing the limits. EASY DOES IT
82 Relax in loosened-up separates and softened
TRENDS WITH BENEFITS neutral tones.
There’s no shortage of new wellness trends to try.

86
Features
34 FACE VALUE
Can a humble facial have the power to heal?
118
DECODING DAKOTA
Dakota Fanning on choosing challenging roles
88
and dodging the pitfalls of child stardom.
FIT FOR PURPOSE
A slick new wellness hub in Bondi. 144
CHANGE AGENT
90
Change is inevitable, but how we respond during
LEADING THE WAY
times of upheaval is coming into focus.
Female scientists inspiring the next generation.
146
92
A LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN
I WALKED ALONE
After years of being told they can’t, the stars of
An Australian woman’s hike of self-discovery.
the AFL Women’s League are proving they can.
94
160
A CREATIVE APPROACH
THE FIGHT OF HER LIFE
The arts can play a role in healing people with
Sara Chivers’s heartbreaking story of living
mental health issues, including anxiety.
with terminal brain cancer, then discovering
74 96
RUNNING UP THAT HILL
her 18-month-old son also had a brain tumour.
Meet the first woman to complete a marathon. Voyage

164
Fashion TOUGH LUXE
104 Rustic luxury and gruelling hikes create lasting
BODY TALK memories – and results – at an LA health retreat.
Bicep curls with Fendi and Chanel chin-ups: the
fashionable way to get the ultimate beach body.
168 VOGUE SOIREE
128 A L I Q U E B R I A N N A C A P OZ Z I D U N C A N K I L L I C K
171 HOROSCOPES
FIRST LOOK
Colour, shine and frivolity mingled on the runway 176 LAST WORD
for spring/summer ’18.
136 SUBSCRIBE TO VOGUE

LIFE AQUATIC TU RN TO PAG E 10 0 TO SU B SCRIB E
O R REN EW AN D G ET 13 IS SU ES
152 A blazing summer sun, glare-bright prints,
electric colour, sporty silhouettes.
FO R TH E PRICE O F 12 .
16 FEBRUARY 2018
Edwina McCann
Editor-in-Chief editor@vogue.com.au
D eput y E d it or a nd Fe at u re s D i re c t or S OPH I E T E DM A NS ON
features@vogue.com.au
Fa sh ion D i re c t or C H R I ST I N E C E N T E N E R A
Cre at i ve D i re c t or at L a r ge A L I S ON V E N E S S
ART art@vogue.com.au
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FASHION fashion@vogue.com.au
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Ju n ior Fa sh ion E d it or PE T TA C H UA Ma rket E d it or BE T H I E GI R M A I
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E d it or ia l C o ord i n at or R E BE C CA S H A L A L A
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A s s o ciat e D ig it a l E d it or L I L I T H H A R DI E LU PICA A s si s t a nt D ig it a l E d it or s DA N I E L L E G AY F R A NC E S CA WA L L AC E
CONTRIBUTORS
A L IC E CAVA N AGH ( Pa r i s) V IC T OR I A C OL L I S ON (S p e cia l P roje c t s E d it or)
PI PPA HOLT ( L ondon) N ATA S H A I NC H L E Y ( Fa sh ion)
EDITORIA L ADMINISTR ATION AND RIGHTS

D ig it a l A s s et s a nd R ig ht s Ma n a ger T RU DY BI E R N AT D ig it a l A s s et s a nd R ig ht s C o ord i nat or J E S S ICA R IC H MON D
Nat ion a l S a le s a nd St rat e g y D i re c t or, St y le N IC OL E WAU DBY (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 61 .

He ad of Bra nd St rat e g y, St y le M E R RY N DH A M I (02) 92 8 8 10 9 0. He ad of D ig it a l C om mercia l St rat e g y, St y le A M A N DA S PAC K M A N (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 5 8 .
NS W Group S a le s Ma na ger C H E Y N E H A L L (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 67.
NS W Key Ac c ou nt Ma n a ger s K AT E C OR BE T T (02) 8 0 4 5 47 3 7. CAT H E R I N E PAT R IC K (02) 8 0 4 5 4 613 . J E S S ICA L A M B (02) 8 0 4 5 4 675 .
Br a nd St r at e g y Ma n a ger T E S S A DI XON (02) 8 0 4 5 474 4 . He ad of St rat e g ic Pa r t ner sh ip s H A N N A H DAV I D -W R IGH T (02) 8 0 4 5 49 8 6 .
D ig it a l Bra nd Ma na ger K R I ST I N A K A R A S S OU L I S (02) 92 8 8 174 3 . NS W C a mpa ig n I mplement at ion Ma na ger K AT E DW Y E R (02) 92 8 8 10 0 9.
NS W Ac c ou nt E xe c ut i ve s , St y le A N A STA S I A PA PAY IORY IOU (02) 92 8 8 132 4 . CA I T L I N PAT E R (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 5 3 .
Vic t or ia S a le s D i re c t or, St y le K A R E N C L E M E N T S (0 3) 92 92 32 02 . Vic t or ia He ad of S a le s E L I S E DE S A N T O (0 3) 92 92 162 1 . Vic t or ia Group B u si ne s s Ma na ger N A DI N E DE N I S ON (0 3) 92 92 32 2 4 .
Vic t or ia He ad of D i re c t S a le s & Pa r t ner sh ip s JO C ONSTA BL E (0 3) 92 92 32 0 3 . Vic t or ia C a mpa ig n I mplement at ion Ma na ger R E BE C CA RODE L L (0 3) 92 92 195 1 .
Q ue en sla nd C om mercia l D i re c t or, L i fe s t y le RO S E W E GN E R (0 7) 3 6 6 6 69 0 3 . Vic t or ia Ac c ou nt E xe c ut i ve S A R A H-JA N E BAC ON (0 3) 92 92 32 0 8 .
C la s si f ie d Ad ver t i si ng R E BE C CA W H I T E 13 0 0 13 9 3 0 5 . A sia : K I M K E NC H I NGT ON , Me d iawork s A sia (8 52) 2 8 82 1 10 6 .
Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve D i re c t or R IC H A R D M c AU L I F F E Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve Ma na ger E VA C HOW N

Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve P ro duc er s J E N N Y H AY E S S A R A H M U RY
Cre at i ve S er v ic e s S en ior A r t D i re c t or s A M A N DA A N DE R S ON CA RY N I S E M A N N
Ad ver t i si ng C opy E d it or s A N N E T T E FA R NS WOR T H BRO OK E L E W I S ROB BA DM A N
P ro duc t ion Ma n a ger M IC H E L L E O ’ BR I E N Ad ver t i si ng P ro duc t ion C o ord i n at or GI N A J I A NG
G enera l Ma n a ger, R et a i l S a le s a nd Ci rc u lat ion BR E T T W I L L I S

Su b s c r ipt ion s Ac q u i sit ion Ma na ger GR A N T DU R I E Su b s c r ipt ion s R et ent ion Ma n a ger C RYSTA L E W I NS
D ig it a l D i re c t or J U L I A N DE L A N E Y S en ior P ro duc t Ma n a ger CA S S A N DR A A L L A R S

P ro duc t Ma n a ger T I N A I S H A K Plat for m Ma n a ger DAV I D BE R RY
Ma rket i ng D i re c t or – L i fe s t y le DI A N A K AY Bra nd Ma n a ger s R AC H E L C H R I ST I A N K I M BE R L E Y GR AC E Event Ma rket i ng Ma na ger BRO OK E K I NG

Event s Ma n a ger GE N E V I E V E M c CA S K I L L Ma rket i ng C o ord i nat or MON IQU E W E H R M A N N
C h ief D ig it a l O f f ic er N IC OL E S H E F F I E L D
D i re c t or of C om mu n ic at ion s S H A RY N W H I T T E N
G enera l Ma na ger, Net work S a le s , NS W PAU L BL AC K BU R N
Prestige and Lifestyle Director NICK SMITH
VO GU E AUST R A L I A m a ga z i ne i s pu bl i she d by New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d (AC N 0 8 8 92 3 9 0 6). I S S N 0 0 4 2 - 8 019. New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d i s a w hol l y ow ne d s u b sid ia r y
of New s L i m it e d (AC N 0 0 7 8 7 1 178). C opy r ig ht 2 018 by New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d . A l l r ig ht s re s er ve d . 2 Holt St re et , Su r r y H i l l s , NS W 2 010. Tel : (02) 92 8 8 3 0 0 0.
Po s t a l add re s s: Vog ue A u s t ra l ia , New sL i feMe d ia , L evel 1 , L o cke d B a g 5 0 3 0, A lex a nd r ia , NS W 2 015 . E m a i l : e d it vog ue au s t @ vog ue .c om . au .
Melb ou r ne of f ic e : H W T Tower, L evel 5 , 4 0 Cit y R oad , S out h ba n k , Vic t or ia 3 0 0 6 . Tel : (0 3) 92 92 2 0 0 0. Fa x : (0 3) 92 92 32 9 9.
Br i sba ne of f ic e : 4 1 C a mpb el l St re et , B owen H i l l s , Q ue en sla nd 4 0 0 6 . Tel : (0 7) 3 6 6 6 6910. Fa x : (0 7) 3 62 0 2 0 01 .
Su b s c r ipt ion s: w it h i n A u s t ra l ia , 13 0 0 6 5 6 93 3 ; over s e a s: (61 2) 92 82 8 02 3 . E m a i l : s u b s @ m a g s on l i ne .c om . au .

Su b s cr ipt ion s m a i l : Ma g s on l i ne , R epl y Pa id 8 70 5 0, Syd ney, NS W 2 0 01 (no s t a mp re q u i re d). We b sit e : w w w.vog ue .c om . au .
C ondé Na s t I nt er nat iona l JON AT H A N N E W HOUS E C ha i r m a n a nd C h ief E xe c ut i ve

WOL F G A NG BL AU P re sident JA M E S WO OL HOUS E E xe c ut i ve Vic e P re sident
P r i nt e d by PM P L i m it e d , Pa p er f ibre i s f rom s u s t a i n a bl y m a na ge d fore s t s a nd c ont rol le d s ou rc e s .
20 FEBRUARY 2018
VOGUE
Editor’s letter
Dakota Fanning in
‘Decoding Dakota’,
from page 118.
S
ome years ago, when I was still quite new in this This month we also celebrate the magic of Valentine’s Day
role, the late editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, Franca and so our cover story of Dakota Fanning sees her photographed
Sozzani, took my hand while looking over Bondi in a riot of florals (from page 118). The actress has just completed
Beach and told me she thought I might be the her most ambitious project to date, The Alienist (now streaming
luckiest Vogue editor in the world. She was referring on Netflix), and is indeed in full bloom. Zara Wong muses on
to the incredible lifestyle I am able to enjoy while doing an why we still dress up for date night, on page 66. We also round
inspiring job that I love. I had just explained that I ran daily along up the trends in the coming season – and therefore the next
the coastline between Bronte and Bondi beaches, right past the issues of this magazine (from page 128) – and feature some of
window we were looking out of at the famed Icebergs restaurant, the incredible women who make up the AFL Women’s teams
where we were hosting an event to welcome Franca to Australia. (page 146). We at Vogue Australia are big supporters of women
She was right, and I have often reflected on that luck when I join in sport, particularly those in male-dominated codes who are
the throng of people exercising at Bondi Beach in the mornings shifting views of what women are capable of. Their pioneering
before heading into the Vogue office. Senior fashion editor Kate spirit is encouraging so many young women today to believe
Darvill and photographer Benny Horne have captured the that they can do whatever they dream of. We hope this eclectic
virtual gym the beach and promenade becomes from daybreak mix of stories and images will inspire you to dream a little, too.
every morning from page 104. Their tongue-in-cheek take on We have been both inspired and saddened by Sara Chivers’s
fashionable fitness makes me smile, as I hope it will you too. courageous battle with cancer. We thank her and her family for
After the craziness of the December and January party bravely telling her story in this issue (page 160). Sara’s fight is one
season, this month we focus on getting back in shape with an we should never forget, and we can show our support by giving
issue largely dedicated to health, fitness and wellness – Vogue generously to the Cure Brain Cancer Foundation.
style. As such we feature the newest health hangout in Bondi:
E M M A S U M M E RTO N
The Well (page 88), the brainchild of former fashion luxury

retailer Robby Ingham, which offers a one-stop shop for fitness
and wellbeing. As Ingham says: “Wellness is the new black.”
And green juice the new champagne – even at Vogue. EDWINA McCANN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
22 FEBRUARY 2018
VOGUE
Contributors
DANIELLE MOYLAN
“The major takeaway from my
hike was really how remarkable it
HANA JIRICKOVA is to have a healthy body and that
I should treasure it while I have
Czech model Hana Jirickova is
it,” explains journalist Danielle
based between New York and
London. “Commuting between
Moylan, who undertook a solo NOELLE FAULKNER
VIKI RUTSCH
hike in Europe. “I wasn’t really A regular Vogue Australia
these two great cities is much
physically capable of climbing contributor, Noelle Faulkner has
easier than people think – for me,
Set designer Viki Rutsch was mountains every day when I her first cover interview in this
flying transatlantic is as natural
the creative force behind the started, but I definitely was by the issue – with Dakota Fanning.
as taking the bus or tube to
set of the Dakota Fanning cover time I finished.” Asked about any “She was wonderful to chat to –
work!” says Jirickova, who
story, from page 118. “The other changes the hike made to very down-to-earth, a girls’ girl.
travelled to Sydney for the
photographer, Emma Summerton, her life, Moylan responds: “I think It made me think how lucky her
fashion story ‘Body talk’, from
suggested we make a greenhouse the days I compulsively checked girlfriends are to have her in their
page 104. Her favourite thing
with stained glass,” Rutsch says. my social media accounts every lives.” Faulkner also interviewed
about modelling? “It gives me the
Her design inspiration? “I once hour or so are over!” Read more the stars of AFL Women’s for ‘A
opportunity to discover this great
made a wall of salvaged windows about her experience on page 92. league of their own’, from page
planet of ours, like this shoot in
in an old apartment to separate 146. “Every single woman on this
Sydney. I fell in love with this
the space and my roommate planet moves through the same
country and next Christmas I’m
and I called it the ‘WOW’ [wall struggles. We have all spent our
taking two weeks off to come
of windows]. This set was lives making sacrifices and
back and really enjoy it!”
a much larger version.” putting blood, sweat and tears
I N S TA G R A M . CO M / H A N A J I R I C KO VA A N D R E W Q U I LT Y
into something we see as worthy.”
24 FEBRUARY 2 0 1 8
2. 1. Isabel Marant S/S ’18. 2. Gilda
Ambrosio in Milan. 3. No. 21 S/S
’18. 4. On the streets of Milan.
5. The Beauty Chef Glow Inner
Beauty Powder, $60.
6. Orchard Street juices from $10.
7. C&M Camilla And Marc cap,
TI M E TO R ECHARG E 1. $79. 8. P.E. Nation crop top,
$109. 9. On the streets of Milan.
10. Isabel Marant S/S ’18. 11. On
How to fuel the streets of London. 12. Nars
your body 3. eyeshadow in Malacca, $37.
in your 20s,
30s, 40s
and beyond.
4.
5.
D R I N K IT I N
10. 6.
A nutritionist
sets the biggest
juice cleansing
myths straight.
12.
G E T M OVI N G
9. 7.
Channel your
inner ballerina
with these barre-
inspired exercises.
P OWER TR I P
A million ways
E D WA R D U R R U T I A A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
8.
to look good
while you work
out this summer.
W O R D S : DA N I E L L E G AY P H OTO G R A P H S : G E T T Y I M A G E S I N D I G I TA L
11.
ONLINE
Vogue.com.au
It’s wellness month on Vogue.com.au. Whether you like to bend and stretch or pound the
pavement, it’s time to get to work. Get glowing inside and out with tips from nutritionists and
power up your wardrobe with the best functional pieces to help you kick every goal.
T WIT TER , FACEBOOK , INSTAG R AM AND TUMBLR: @VO G U E AU STR ALIA ; SNAPCHAT: @ M I S SVO G U E AU STR ALIA
26 FEBRUARY 2018
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RICHARD BAILEY
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of sport: the AFL, which now, two decades later, finally includes women on the field.
30 FEBRUARY 2018 30
Exclusive to the
National Gallery of Australia
Opens 30 March
nga.gov.au
Cartier Paris Crocodile necklace 1975, Cartier Collection. Photo: Vincent Wulveryck, Cartier Collection © Cartier
V O G U E
V I E W
HOT BUTTONS
It has come undone, and then been put
back together in its most experimental
reincarnations yet. Meet the shirt’s rework,
a refreshed re-entry into the style lexicon.
ST YLING K ATE DARVI LL

PHOTOG R APHS D U N CAN KI LLI CK
P O I N T
34
WHITE
NIGHT
Designers have ensured
the white shirt speaks
fluent party. The contrast
between crisp cut and
skin-revealing swathes
is unexpected seduction.
Dion Lee shirt, $490. Rachel
Gilbert skirt, $599. Ryan
Storer earrings, $280.
Balenciaga bag, $2,925,
from www.matchesfashion.
com. Giorgio Armani
shoes, $1,550.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
C ROERDDI ST : A L I C E B I R R E L L H A I R : KO H M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D
W
FEBRUARY 2018 35
VOGUE V IEW POINT
DESKTOP
DRAMA
In its natural office
environment, the shirt is at
a higher risk of looking
pedestrian, so employ
detailing like this clever
lace-up before pairing
with a companion blazer.
Carl Kapp jacket, $1,595.
Sandro shirt, $425.
3.1 Phillip Lim pants, P.O.A.
Studio Elke earrings, $160.
Prada bag, $4,420.
DUNCAN KILLICK
36
DRESS CODES
The forward-thinking woman
knows fashion is about unlikely
pairings. This time deliberately
tailored angles fuse with a
breezy dress. Stuffed shirts
need not apply.
Scanlan Theodore dress,
$500. Phillip Lim earrings,
P.O.A. Off-White c/o Virgil
Abloh boots, $3,490.
FEBRUARY 2018 37
VOGUE V IEW POINT
OFF THE
CUFF
Spontaneous style is a cinch
with an oversized shirt. Just be
prepared to flout traditional
fashion rules: all-over volume
gives carefree weekend style
with flats and a smart stripe.
Louis Vuitton shirt, $1,700.
Rag & Bone pants, $240.
Camilla and Marc shoes, $399.
DUNCAN KILLICK
38 FEBRUARY 2018
VOGUE V IEW POINT
HOT COLLAR
Rarely does a shirt feel youthful
outside of a school uniform.
Imagined in new materials, like
a wet-look version in cinnamon,
it has newfound energy. Nod to
its traditional role worn under
outerwear like Burberry’s
snappy windbreaker.
Burberry jacket, $2,195. Jil Sander
shirt, $945. On right ear: Reliquia
earring, $289, for a pair. On left ear:
Suro earring, $370, for a pair.
MEASURE UP
Bank some style cachet
with Wall Street stripes
taken for a turn outside of
hours. A skirt in a matching
fabric is the new two-piece.
DUNCAN KILLICK
Anna Quan top, $380,

and skirt, $450. Reliquia
earrings, $199. Kenzo
backpack, P.O.A.
40 FEBRUARY 2018
VOGUE V IEW POINT
P.E Nation’s Claire
Tregoning (left) and Pip
Edwards. Tregoning wears
a Chloé jacket, $6,000,
from David Jones. Prada
dress, $2,710, slip, $920,
and shoes, $1,480. Simon
Miller jeans, $355, from
www.mychameleon.
com.au. Edwards wears a
Loewe jacket, P.O.A. Acne
Studios jacket, $590.
Prada skirt, $1,100, socks,
$240, and shoes, $1,070.
STYLE
SYLLABUS
Codes
blue
S T I L L L I F E : G E O R G I N A E G A N H A I R : KO H M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D
What do athleisure and
denim have in common?
They’re both modern-day
wardrobe bedrock. The
power duo behind a cult
label, which makes both,
show how they’re done.
By Alice Birrell.
ST YLING MAR I NA AFO N I NA
42
“People say
FIT FOR WEAR
denim is on
P.E Nation
trend. It’s not crop top, $109.
on trend. It’s
never out”
I’m Isola
Marras
sneakers,
$830.
MaxMara jacket, $6,725. Miu Miu

bodysuit, $2,720. Marques
Almeida jeans, $510, from www.
mychameleon.com.au. Salvatore
Ferragamo shoes, $695.
I
f you don’t know their story by now remember it this way: theirs is the idea you wished you’d
dreamt up, one that makes enough sense one wonders why it wasn’t done before. It might help
though, to remember it could only have been the pairing of Pip Edwards and Claire Tregoning
that established athleisure label P.E. Nation, the two-year-old label that melds sportswear and
streetwear classics in pieces that slot in anywhere, which is exactly where they wear it.
“It’s our own aesthetic. We know the aesthetic: we are the aesthetic,” says Edwards simply,
dressed in leggings, Nike sneakers and a P.E. crop, discussing how spray pants work with heels, P.E Nation
or why a P.E. tank with formal trousers works for nights out (just add heels). The label’s cut- jeans, $249.
through, in a cluttered category, is anchored in versatility. “We’re kind of forging a different
path with women, which is exactly the whole point of why Claire and I do what we do; it’s more Gucci watch,
than just clothes.” Moncler shoes, $1,040. $1,180.
Their retro-tinged pieces, often framed in block stripes, reflect the 80s and 90s ethos of
sportswear where functionality was accented with incursions of electric brights, and have far
outsold their neutral-only pieces. “I think a lot of businesses rely on their core basics, whereas
we rely on our fashion pieces,” explains Tregoning, who was taken aback by the effect the
brighter pieces have had on their clientele. “The way it’s impacted women had been surprising,
the way all women have responded to it; so not one particular demographic. We get so many
emails about how inspired they are.”
A democratic take on fashion underpins their respective approaches to dressing and is why
they split their wardrobes between two key categories: activewear and denim. “Oh my god,
denim is the only thing in the wardrobe, apart from activewear,” says Edwards, who with
Tregoning introduced the category to P.E. in 2017. “Our combined archives of denim are →
FEBRUARY 2018 4 3
VOGUE V IEW POINT
“You don’t have

your activewear
draw anymore.
It all merges”
Giorgio Armani coat, $5,450.

P.E. Nation jacket, $240.
MaxMara top, $550.
Christian Dior briefs,
$1,250. Balenciaga sneakers,
$1,030, from Sneakerboy.
crazy,” she says of their collections built working in the design teams for Ksubi and street style, they’re clashing,” says Edwards. “You don’t have
Sass & Bide between them. “People say denim is on trend. It’s not on trend. It’s never your activewear draw anymore,” she says as an example of
out,” says Tregoning. existing codes melting away. “It all merges together.”
What is trending is fashion’s tendency toward the rework. The pair cite Vetements’s With their kind of experience one would think they
Levi’s collaboration, Off-White and Re/Done for mismatching, “bringing back would have also hit on the ideal pair of jeans by now.
heritage but also the way they’re cutting and slicing”. They also draw on the blurring “That’s a personal thing,” says Edwards, who likes hers
of traditional wardrobe categories to dress in denim. What interests them in jeans is slightly slouchy and boyish. “I’m a rigid girl,” says
doing it in “a street way … how denim was worn in the 90s”. Tregoning. “The way it stretches out and doesn’t go back.”
DUNCAN KILLICK
That translates now to denim as more than just hard-wearing pieces, and more of a “We’re forever trying to find it,” says Edwards, who like
statement – wearing jeans layered under a dress, or head-to-toe as a jumpsuit. Much us all, is searching for that perfect pair. “We still collect.
like the P.E. approach, it’s less about classics, all about self-expression. “If you look at With denim, there’s always room for more.” ■
44 FEBRUARY 2018 44
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VOGUE V IEW POINT
SNAPSHOT
Front runner
Fast-track your way to earning your
stripes with linear details.
ST YLING K ATE DARVI LL
PHOTOG R APH D U N CAN KI LLI CK
A
call-out to athletic types (or the ones who
are satisfied with just looking the part):
a quick do-it-yourself for sporty subtlety
never had a more complementary teammate than
the stripe. Specifically we mean the stripe as a
detail, a pared-back touch that will take it from
courtside to streetside, a visual cue for speed,
agility, drop-everything-and-go. See the stripe race
down the limbs of tracksuits and the sides of skirts
M O D E L S , F R O M L E F T: S C H I R I N F R O S C H
or trousers to straps and placement prints as a zig

A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S
TA L I A B E R M A N J A S M I N E D W Y E R
and a zag. Any which way, a little goes far at this

stage of the game. Zara Wong
AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
Left: Kate Sylvester jacket, $219, and pants, $169.

Centre: P.E Nation jacket, $269. Ivy Park crop top, $50.
Hugo Boss pants, $479. Reliquia sunglasses, $149. Apple
Watch Series 3, from $459. Right: Tommy Hilfiger
bodysuit, $80, and skirt, $100. Nixon watch, $600.
46 FEBRUARY 2018
FEBRUARY 2018 47
48
NEED IT NOW
PUMPED UP
A throwback to the cultural phenomenon of 1980s sports shoes, Louis Vuitton’s
advanced take on exaggerated thick-soled sneakers will take you back to the future.
ART DIREC TION MAN DY ALE X
PHOTOG R APH G EO RG I NA EGAN
VOGUE V IEW POINT
sneakers, $1,490.
Louis Vuitton
FEBRUARY 2018
WORDS: ZAR A WONG
VOGUE V IEW POINT
TA K E N OT E
FROM
THE HIP
Nothing says on-the-go more than the
hands-free waist bag made runway-
appropriate in leather and with colour.
PHOTOG R APHS EDWAR D U R RUTIA
ST YLING PE T TA CH UA
Right: Maggie Marilyn dress, $530. Asos waist bag, $24. Cartier
bracelet, $122,000. Below: H&M Studio top, $80. Adam Lippes
pants, $285. Tiffany & Co. bracelet, $1,600, and rings $330 and
$660. Gucci waist bag, $1,325. Below right: Sportsmax dress, $935.
Diane von Furstenberg skirt, $520, from Net-A-Porter.com. Bulgari
ring, $2,090, and watch, $81,600. Miu Miu waist bag, $2,060.
W O R D S : Z A R A W O N G M A N I C U R E : ZO E V O K I S
50 FEBRUARY 2018
VOGUE V IEW POINT
IN PROFILE
Icons will be icons

In the past year, Paul Andrew has excelled at Ferragamo
as designer of its super-slinky womenswear shoes. Now
he is stepping up to a new role, and here, shares some
of his magic and inspiration with Alison Veness.
A
lison Veness: “Congratulations on your new role. How does
it feel to be creative director of the women’s collections at
Salvatore Ferragamo?”
Paul Andrew: “Thank you! I feel so grateful for the confidence and trust
the Ferragamo Group and family have put in me. It’s truly a privilege to
work with the expertise of one of the world’s great fashion and leather
goods houses. I’m so excited by the opportunities that lay ahead in
forging a single, powerful identity for a new Ferragamo woman.”
AV: “Will a particular person be part of your journey?”
PA: “Yasmin Sewell has been a friend and mentor to me for almost 20
years. We met in 1999 when she saw my graduation collection and then
bought every piece for her London store Yasmin Cho. Yasmin’s impeccable
style and joie de vivre are a constant inspiration. But I also draw significant
influence from other women in my life who embody grace, sophistication,
intelligence and style; this could be someone as beautiful and glamorous
as Karolina Kurkova, Jessica Chastain or Lupita Nyong’o, or someone
I see walking down the street who has style and confidence.”
AV: “What is the best find in the Salvatore Ferragamo shoes archives
so far, and how is it shaping your future thoughts and designs?”
PA: “I’ve spent countless hours poring over Ferragamo’s archives in
Florence yet I feel that there is still so much to discover: it houses nearly
15,000 pairs of shoes! Much of my inspiration is currently drawn from
his styles from the 1930s and 40s. I’ve studied them in close detail, then
reconsidered the proportions, construction and fabrication to make them
look fresh, new and relevant for today. However, one of my favourite
archival styles is the F-wedge, a heel that Salvatore originally created in
1947. Its curved, feminine-form silhouette was a marvel of architectural
engineering at that time. My new version of the heel, thanks to technology
available today, is higher, more under-slung, and has been coated with
a galvanized metal finish that’s applied in a car factory.”
AV: “What more can you tell us about this slinky and sensual style?”
PA: “When I was redesigning the signature F-Wedge heel it was my idea
to cover the heel in a single piece of velvet with no seams – a seemingly
impossible task given the steep under-slung curvature of the heel’s
silhouette. But with Ferragamo’s incredible artisans, and the aid of
modern technology, we created a process that moulds fabric into the
curved shape over a course of 11 days. I am evolving the F-wedge
silhouette even further in the pre-spring ’18 collection. My particular
favourite is a sandal in vibrant patent leather with a removable floral- Paul Andrew,
printed silk scarf around the ankle.” creative director
of womenswear at
AV: “If Mr Ferragamo were alive today, what would you ask him?”
CREDIT
Salvatore Ferragamo.
PA: “I would be so interested to hear what inspired him; what →
52
CREDIT
LO R E N ZO N E N C I O N I
FEBRUARY 2018 5 3
VOGUE V IEW POINT
drove him to push boundaries in design and construction. The Salvatore second home. I love to visit the Uffizi museum and wander among the
Ferragamo name has been an iconic reference for shoe design and Bronzino and Botticelli paintings. If I happen to be in Florence over the
craftsmanship for nearly a century. He was so ahead of his time in the weekend, I try to take advantage and enjoy the Tuscan countryside. I’m
design space; it’s incredible to touch and feel his early work. He was very fond of Siena, and always look forward to spending time at Castel
truly the first designer to make shoes fashionable objects of desire.” Monastero, an 11th-century monastery and village that’s been restored
AV: “How are you making us lust after your objects of desire?” into the most picturesque hotel resort.”
PA: “My intention has not been to revolutionise the brand, but to evolve AV: “You are British – that must influence you …”
it slowly one room at a time. I want to make this beautiful Italian heritage PA: “I grew up in a small, rural town in the southwest of England. My
brand relevant to a new generation of consumers while maintaining and father was the upholsterer to the Queen at Windsor and my mother an
exciting the current loyal clientele. My goal is to revisit the Ferragamo executive at an international computer company. Growing up
archives and elaborate and update the brand’s fundamental design codes surrounded by artisanship, fine fabrics and colour juxtaposed with an
and values. I am putting a focus on high tech converging with high craft appreciation for technology and advancement was really influential.
to ensure the shoes are once again ahead of their time.” Those memories continue to inform my design process.”
AV: “How do you create an icon? No pressure! The 1938 rainbow AV: “When did you realise fashion would become your career?“
platform sandal is the holy grail of design – is that what you are PA: “Fashion was always my first interest, and my career path became
hoping to achieve as well?” clear quite early in life. Growing up, I enjoyed architecture and art,
PA: “I feel that setting out to create something iconic is too daunting and in high school my favourite class was design technology. I loved
a task. Icons are built over time, not incepted overnight. the idea of designing something that could enhance a
As a designer, one must be instinctive and confident person’s life, and then being able to create it using
– I want all my designs to emulate elegance and joy. “I WANT ALL modern technological advances. When it came time to
Whenever a design doesn’t feel quite right to me, I usually MY DESIGNS choose a field of study for university, fashion footwear
find that it’s missing one of these characteristics.”
AV: “What inspired the pre-spring ’18 shoes?”
TO EMULATE design seemed like the perfect amalgamation of all my
interests. I actually set out to study ready-to-wear design,
PA: “I took notice of the repetition of floral cues and flower ELEGANCE but a professor noticed I had a specific talent for shoes
motifs throughout the Ferragamo archive; Salvatore designed AND JOY” and urged me to cultivate that craft. The aspect of
many shoes with floral motifs in raffia, macramé and designing footwear that I love so much is how a woman’s
embroidery. I then flew to London and took a walk through demeanour, posture and attitude can be changed due to
the Columbia Road Flower Market where I photographed a series of her shoes. Sliding on a sexy heel alters the way she walks, carries
tulips, roses and exotic orchids. The photos became the anchor of the herself, and positions her body; shoes have an incredible power to
collection’s print inspiration.” shape a woman’s presence.”
AV: “What is behind the incredible flower heel?” AV: “Can you remember the first pair of shoes you designed?”
PA: “The inspiration for the flower heel came from an original design of PA: “The first pair of shoes I designed was a flat T-strap sandal with a tie
Salvatore Ferragamo from 1939 that he created for the American market. around the ankle. The upper had two straight bands of hand-embroidered
The heel consisted of four vertical column-shaped pieces of cork covered gold bugle beads across the toes and instep, and it was trimmed with
with gold kid, which had a slightly concave top for a comfortable fit. black snakeskin. I hand-made the shoe from start to finish. This school
Today’s high-tech version has replaced the cork with lightweight and project gave me the passion for shoe design, craftsmanship and
durable plastic covered in a variety of materials, including leather, suede construction. To this day I still hand-cut the patterns and make the first
and fabric, or lacquered with a special metalling coating. The flower heel heel and last prototypes for every shoe in my eponymous collection. I do
is Ferragamo’s new classic: seductive and feminine signature, equally this not only because I love the craft and artisanship, but because this
light and comfortable as the original design. When you look at them from also allows me to control
contro the fit and comfort of my shoes. This important
underneath you can see the flower shape and its unmistakable footprint, element is equally as imimportant to me – as it was for Salvatore – as the
but from the side it resembles a Roman column; it speaks about design of the shoes. The
There is nothing less attractive for me than seeing
architecture, Italy and gives a sense of strength and stability.” a woman walk down the street wearing a pair of shoes that handicap her.
AV: “What do you love about working in Florence?”
Floren My objective is not only to make shoes that make a woman look sexy,
PA “Florence is undoubtedly beautiful and iss essentially now my
PA: strong and empowered, but also feel sexy, strong and empowered.” ■
Salvatore Ferragamo mules, $1,390. Salvatore Ferragamo mules, $995. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, $825.
54 FEBRUARY 2018
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VOGUE V IEW POINT
Smalls
wonder
What has scandalised many and been
kept hidden for centuries emerges
into the open as ready-to-wear.
Lingerie-as-clothing is on show as
fashion’s current fetish. By Alice Birrell.
ILLUSTR ATION KELLY MAKER
S
ome things just take getting used to.
The bellybutton, a universal mark that
shows we’re merely human, was
deemed obscene by Hollywood until – wait
for it – the 1970s, the era when the indomitable
Cher shimmied around on screen in as many
micro tops as a television wardrobe
department could conjure. Sheer fabric?
Helmut Lang afforded us transparent tricot,
respectably but barely shrouding the body
like a whisper of an undergarment in the
1990s, and lingerie in a major way on the
runway? The Victoria’s Secret Angels first
unfurled their wings in 1977.
But are we ready to swallow lingerie as
certified outerwear, on the street, to our
friends’ dinner parties and, yes, also to work?
“Lingerie is so closely connected to the body
that blurring the lines between innerwear and
outerwear is a sign of confidence and the
freedom to express how you feel,” says Julia
Haart, creative director of La Perla, the Italian
lingerie mammoth that launched ready-to-
wear for the first time, for spring/summer ’17,
last year. Their decision to branch into a
seemingly different area highlighted just
how intriguing and essential the relationship
between women’s lingerie and their clothing
really is.
Suiting and lingerie, for one, might seem And while we know about the usual boudoir to broad daylight pieces: the slip dress, peignoir
unlikely bedfellows, but in reality they’re robes as evening dresses (see Attico and new label Cinque), pyjamas as evening wear (see For
made for one another. Where a suit needs Restless Sleepers, Australian label Ginia), it’s the cross pollination of lingerie and clothing into
meticulous measurements and expert pattern a new hybrid that’s bringing something else to fashion. Take Orseund Iris: designer and founder
cutting, a bra involves a similar level of detail: Alana Johnson’s corset-like tops have delicate underwire embedded into the fabric to mimic
sometimes up to 36 pieces are needed for a bra’s shape – a more literal rework than we’re used to. “Embracing a style in history that has
perfect construction. Haart has taken the always been unexposed and hidden under a garment is a bit thrilling,” Johnson explains.
brand’s 60-plus years of expertise making Lingerie detailing can also deliver that thrill. “Almost every element of women’s lingerie has
lingerie to apply it to the cut of a jacket. “We filtered through to fashion, especially lace either as a discreet trim or for the entire garment,” says
developed a revolutionary new sizing that Roger Leong, senior curator at the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences in Sydney, which houses
incorporates dress size and cup size,” she an archive of lingerie. The private on show is everywhere, as in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s now
explains. “What we do is design our pieces signature princess dresses with balconette-style tops for Dior, or the re-emergence of Dolce &
from the inside out.” Both will perennially be Gabbana’s sheer dresses over solid high-waisted briefs and bra sets, or Céline’s lace-front slips for
defined by the same thing: how well they fit. resort 2018 – as close as you can get to going topless. It’s been building in the collections of the past
56
decade, including Jason Wu’s Helmut Newton influenced line-up for spring/summer ’13, Riccardo
HIDE AND PEEK
Tisci’s now famous lace-up piece at Givenchy sparking a surge in the demand for bodysuits, and
THE INFLUENCE OF LINGERIE ON FASHION
Proenza Schouler’s bullet-bra-like structured dresses for spring/summer ’11 before that.
EXTENDS DIRECTLY FROM OUR MOST DISCREET
The culmination of all this is an age in which the Kardashians regularly step out wearing not
DRAWERS TO OUR WARDROBES AT LARGE.
only Alaïa, but Austrian hosiery and bodywear label Wolford, and nothing but Wolford, save
heels in nude flesh tones. The French now have a phrase for it – dessous-dessus – that loosely Jacquemus
translates to underwear as outerwear. What was previously just a hint here and there is now top, $265.
being used by designers as just another styling mechanism.
Alice McCall’s recent resort collection didn’t directly call on lingerie, but paired tops of bra-like
proportions with skirts and pants. “I do love the feeling of the 1950s la dolce vita and embracing
the female form,” the designer explains. “It added a an extra layer of femininity overall.” Tommy Hilfiger bra,
$60, and pants, $45.
But realistically, how much is appropriate to reveal in the everyday world? “Lingerie used to be this
private thing, hidden and only brought out on special occasions. But it’s so beautiful and it should be
seen,” says designer Anine Bing, who argues the case for little but a bra under a blazer, and who
makes both for her label. And even though Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec
painted women in robes de chambre, chemises and tea gowns more than a century ago, “there’s still
a certain tension between what’s right for the bedroom and for the outside world”, Leong says.
As we are “progressively undressing the female body in public”, as he puts it, we’re embracing
the freedom to choose to conceal, to reveal, at will. As women we can also choose how exactly we
do this. For one, lingerie no longer equals racy.
McCall’s bralette with pants combination channels the chic of the French Riviera – she imagined Stella
Giovanna Battaglia Engelbert yachting in Saint-Tropez or Gwyneth Paltrow in The Talented Mr. McCartney
Ripley. “The 1950s high society was so sophisticated without showing too much skin,” she notes. skirt, $1,999,
from David
Prae NYC is a lingerie brand known for its minimalist yet luxurious pieces that unwittingly Jones.
ended up being worn as outerwear by customers. “It wasn’t a conscious decision to create stand- La Perla
alone pieces,” says co-founder Carol Fung. “It’s cool [women] now want to show it off as well.” negligee,
Like Annina Mislin, who wore a plain white triangle bra under a shirt, worn open except for the $600,
from Sylvia
top button to fashion week. “When she walked, the breeze opened up her shirt … the sunlight Rhodes.
hitting the silk, plus Annina’s summer tan … it was stunning.”
Now, more than ever, we might be more accepting of lingerie on display in all its forms owing
to the blurring of public and private. “With the growth of social media, personal style is a visual Christian Dior
extension of your personality,” says Pleasure State creative director Frederika Cook, who has
THE FINISHING TOUCHES necklace,
$1,050.
designed extra-wide embellished bra straps intended to be shown. “They look next-level
incredible when worn underneath a camisole or tank top,” she says.
“Social media has helped celebrate and publicise ourselves,” says Fung. “As our personalities
become more public, so do our intimate environments and our bodies. We all have access to
broader ideas in fashion and then in turn have become more daring and experimental.” If this is
not enough, think then of appreciating lingerie for what it is – beautiful and intricately made
garments. “When I was a child, my grandmother took me to an exhibition, and they had a corset
on display,” Jean Paul Gaultier once recalled. “I loved the flesh colour, the salmon satin, the lace,”
he continued. Sometimes we just need our worlds and our wardrobes flipped upside-down, or in Zimmermann Tiffany & Co. EDP,,
this case, inside out. ■ shoes, $650. 75ml for $195.
Girl and Cat xxxxxx

(1881–82) by
Pierre-Auguste
Renoir.
P H OTO G R A P H S : G E O R G I N A E G A N G E T T Y I M A G E S
Kate Moss in A lace slip dress

Veronica Lake wears A satin negligee a Calvin Klein at Milan fashion
a corset in 1946. in Vogue, 1973. slip, 1994. week, 2017.
FEBRUARY 2018 57
58
VOGUE V IEW POINT
Rossi boots.
dress and Gianvito
wears an Erdem
London office,
Net-A-Porter’s
Alison Loehnis, in
P O RT R A I T: DY L A N T H O M A S S T I L L L I F E : G E O R G I N A E G A N
D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
IN PROFILE marketing, and in 2011, she was appointed president of
Net-A-Porter. It is at the company that Loehnis “learnt how
Click into place

to launch new businesses, how to grow, how to launch
a new brand in the form of the Outnet and Mr Porter, new
categories like beauty”, and more.
Alison Loehnis never set out to reach the upper echelons of the She became president of the Yoox Net-A-Porter Group in
fashion e-commerce industry, yet her position as an innovator and 2015, in the wake of Massenet’s departure and the role, she
influencer seemed destined from the outset. By Zara Wong. says, has forced her to focus less on detail. “That was a
I
challenge, because I love the detail and I like to know
f you were to concoct the dream fashion executive – a slew of across-the-board exactly what is going on in the business … [and now I]
business experience, a tony education, a love of fashion and a razor-sharp sense of fully empower my team to do their job effectively.”
style – Alison Loehnis would fit the mould. The president of the Yoox Net-A-Porter Loehnis is also proud of the collaborations across teams
Group oversees Net-A-Porter and Mr Porter, two of the most defining luxury within the Net-A-Porter organisation. “We’re seeing
e-commerce brands today. But despite her reputation for intense focus, thoroughness teams energised and excited about what they do and in
and organisation, the young Loehnis – born Alison Appel in New York before marrying addition to them being a super-talented workforce, we are
Alexander Loehnis, a Londoner – knew little of making fashion a career. “I think I was also surrounded by an amazing focus group,” – staff
naïve of what the opportunities were,” she says, even though her love of fashion was members who are fluent in fashion and always return to
evident from an early age. Attending school where she had to wear a uniform, she tells the needs of customers. She provides the example of the
me of anticipating mufti days so she could plan her outfits, and of memories shopping Net-A-Porter app, which launched in 2009 at the same time
with her mother and watching her try on clothes. As a girl, she would also visit a as a slew of other apps that “looked slick and were
clothing store owned by family friend, where she pretended to work. Her shop-girl marketing vehicles”. You can thank Loehnis for the ease of
dreams became reality when she gained part-time employment at Ralph Lauren while mobile phone shopping: she made a point of asking what
studying at Brown University. Over the phone from London, she recalls how it was customers wanted. “We didn’t want to create something
there that she learnt how to “fold sweaters, to visual merchandise, how to use the till”, with beautiful images to get our brand out there, but rather
adding that she “absolutely loved selling”. “It didn’t occur to me till later that selling – a transactional app that created a service, so customers
something that I loved and choosing things for people, service – was a career.” could shop in a queue or in the back of a taxi.”
Ten years of employment at Net-A-Porter has seen Loehnis charged with Fastidiously on time, she is known to be strict with her
establishing the company’s third distribution centre in Hong Kong to cater to schedules. While she puts this down to being a mother (she
Australia, setting up the Net-A-Porter app and launching the company in the has two children: son Milo and daughter Tilly), it becomes
competitive US market. She has also overseen Net-A-Porter’s involvement with apparent that punctuality was ingrained early on.
the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences’s (MAAS) inaugural Fashion Ball, taking “I personally like to be involved in lots of different things
place on February 1, 2018, an event that seeks to raise funds for the Australian at once and the way I’m able to make that happen is by
Fashion Fund, a Centre for Fashion initiative which will support acquisitions for the being relatively disciplined and keeping track of time.”
museum’s collection. “Australian fashion has emerged with a fresh and individual But despite her innate organisational skills, Loehnis,
perspective that has spiked the interest of the global fashion industry,” she states. who has previously worked in advertising and film, never
“As long-time supporters of the market, it is important to both Net-A-Porter and had a firm career plan. “Not that I haven’t had dreams or
Mr Porter to be a part of the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences’s essential ambitions, but I never sat down and planned specifically.
undertaking to preserve Australian fashion history. Through its MAAS Centre for I was always looking for a role that combined business and
Fashion Ball, it is placing Australian fashion firmly on the international stage and creativity and it took me through a few jobs to find that
ensuring it takes part in the conversation for the foreseeable future.” equilibrium,” she says. “So I guess if you had told me about
While on the surface, Yoox Net-A-Porter is the standard-making industry this role early on in my career I would have gone: ‘Oh gosh,
behemoth, it is an “entrepreneurially spirited organisation”. Founded by Natalie that is amazing!’ I wouldn’t have thought it would be in the
Massenet in 2000, Loehnis was recruited by Massenet herself to be vice-president of bag – it would be something of a dream.” ■
ALISON LOEHNIS’S
BOOK PICKS
A KEEN READER, YOOX AND NET-A-
PORTER’S PRESIDENT READS THE
FINANCIAL TIMES AND NEW YORK
TIMES DAILY, AND SAVES THE NEW
YORKER FOR WHEN SHE TRAVELS.
“IT’S SO WONDERFUL – I LOVE LONG-
FORM WRITING,” SHE SAYS. HERE IS
A SELECTION OF HER CURRENT “The latest book I read
“Another one was A
Gentleman in Moscow, “Right now, I’m finishing “A book I’ve loved in
FAVOURITE NOVELS. was Forest Dark.” which is really lovely.” Beautiful Animals.” recent years is Canada.”
FEBRUARY 2018 59
VOGUE PROMOTION
Local hero
The team at Australian label
Eva’s Sunday focuses on creating
wardrobe must-haves that will
stand the test of time. The label,
which launched three years ago,
features classic-with-a-twist
designs in linen sourced from
European mills. It’s stocked in
close to 90 boutiques in Australia
and New Zealand. For more
details and your nearest stockist,
visit www.evassunday.com.au.
VOGUE
In the clear
Clear+Brilliant is a revolutionary
DIARY
and effective yet gentle skincare
laser treatment, clinically proven
to fight the effects of skin ageing.
Clear+Brilliant refreshes your
Explore what’s in store and skin from within – the laser
worth having this month. creates millions of microscopic
treatment zones to replace
damaged skin with healthy,
younger-looking skin for a more
radiant you. For more details,
visit clearandbrilliant.com.au.
Petal power Love it

Valentine’s Day is on the horizon, No matter the occasion, a little
and if that’s your cue to drop the black handbag can make your
hint about receiving a stunning outfit. The Lovette from Dylan
item of jewellery, the Frivole Kain is an elegant bag designed
collection from Van Cleef & Arpels for everyday use. In lush calf
could hit the mark. Each piece leather, it has an external zip
features a heart-shaped petal pocket, so you can keep essentials
design and dazzling diamonds, close at hand, and an interior
such as this white-gold Frivole compartment with a zip for
Between the Finger ring that valuables, plus a double slip
also comes in yellow gold. For pocket fits a phone and notes. For
more details, call 1800 983 228. details, visit shopdylankain.com.
Skin savers
Glowing, radiant skin doesn’t
always just happen, so it’s
important to find a skincare line
that gives you visible results.
Endota has released its New Age
range of treatment serums that are
formulated with scientifically
advanced ingredients to help
combat the signs of ageing and
leave skin feeling smooth, supple
and nourished. For details,
visit www.endotaspa.com.au.
VOGUE V IEW POINT
Images from the book. Top: André Heller’s artwork for Swarovski
Crystal Worlds. Designs featuring Swarovski, above: Lanvin
(left) and Givenchy; right: Gucci ; below: Christian Lacroix.
BOOKS
CRYSTAL
CLEAR
A look back at Swarovski’s
sparkling history through
the pages of a new book.
T
o celebrate a decade of Atelier
Swarovski, Condé Nast has
published the coffee table
book, Brilliant: The Story of Atelier
Swarovski. The tome features
collaborations between Atelier
Swarovski and creatives such as Zaha
Hadid, Christopher Kane, Rosie
Assoulin and Jean Paul Gaultier, and
surveys Swarovski’s 123-year history,
which has seen its crystals used on
haute couture pieces by Gabrielle
Chanel and Cristóbal Balenciaga, and
on the runway with Prada, Versace,
Dolce & Gabbana and Balenciaga.
FEBRUARY 2018 61
VOGUE V IEW POINT
IN PROFILE
Mr Brightside
How does Michael Kors continue
to lift spirits in an uncertain
world? The eternal fashion
optimist fills us in. By Alice Birrell.
PHOTOG R APH JAKE TER R E Y
I
love seeing this: it’s the best!” says
a buoyant Michael Kors before his
audience, a gathering of V.V.I.P. clients
flown in from around Asia, who can’t see
at first what he is talking about. Enter
a lissom model from another room in
the Peninsula Shanghai’s Palace Suite
into what was a sprawling dining room
transformed into a salon-style trunk show.
She is a mirror image of a slight woman,
sitting front row in the neat horseshoe of
chairs, in the same sleeveless charcoal
Prince of Wales check coat-cum-vest, with
the same black belt looping model’s and
client’s waists. “The most exciting thing is
not the fashion show, it’s you. Because
then I see in real life how it works,” he says
as all eyes flick to the woman, who flashes
an involuntarily big smile.
They’ve waited to meet him. When he
arrives in the suite, impeccably dressed
women form a line around the room as
he greets each one. It almost feels royal,
except that there is a lot of laughter and
too much talk of clothes. “We have a
word now in English called ‘shrobing’.
She takes her husband’s bathrobe and
she ‘shrobes’,” he says tugging the vest
down off the model’s shoulders to
demonstrate a favourite move of the
street-style set. Everyone laughs.
It’s the Michael Kors show, or really
trunk show, something of an intimate
couture presentation with the stuffiness
taken out, and for 36 years it has connected
Kors with his customer. “I always said we
can’t just be in New York and Los Angeles
and Chicago, so I would bring my
collection to smaller cities,” he explains
earlier, remembering a time when, as
a young upstart, he and his collections →
62
H A I R : D I A N E G O R G I E V S K I M A K E- U P: G I L L I A N C A M P B E L L M O D E L : B E R N I E
worn throughout.
Kors maillot, $749.

Opposite: Michael
This page: Michael

Kors dress, $5,299,
and earrings, P.O.A.,
FEBRUARY 2018 6 3
VOGUE V IEW POINT
would personally do the rounds in America. “I’d go to Indiana, I’d go to

Nebraska. I’d go all over the country.” Now he is in China, having flown
in from Tokyo. It’s a scaled-up version of the humble trunk shows that
have spawned an empire of clothes and accessories, and made him the
head of a multi-million-dollar IPO in 2011. “There’s something about this
sort of personal touch of hearing why I did something and how to wear it.”
So when he gets up to present to a small cabal of clients, it is as a
practised presenter. The snappy bite-sized dictums he is known for
appear. “Fringe makes you smile, it’s like colour,” he states of an expertly
shredded leather skirt being sashayed into the suite. “We said it’s like a
very chic hot-water bottle!” of a puffy butter-soft bag that can be scrunched
under an elbow and “not every sexy dress is tight”, of a draped wrap dress
with an extra-low slung back, which elicits a soft cooing from the crowd.
As times have changed, his approach has remained this simple. On
standing out: “When the weather’s really cold and everyone is in black,
wear white.” On the ability of his black, yellow and white print from
resort ’18 designed to be worn in the city (hence the black) and on
holidays (the yellow) to lift spirits, he says: “When I see yellow it makes
me happy. I’m a Leo, so I love the sun.”
Known as the designer who got affluent women to wear casual
clothes, as he told US Vogue in 1999, his elevated take on American
sportswear has been notoriously critiqued as commercial. Kors is awake
to this, too. “I know people have called me Pollyanna-ish. I know some
people think in fashion it’s a bad thing to say that it’s wearable.” In fact
it is what has made his luxurious knits, relaxed tailoring and travel- Michael Kors
bandeau,
friendly collections endure. But as the current mood turns wary in an $649, pants,
uncertain world and designers turn to high-concept or escapist themes, $1,749, and
belt, P.O.A.
Kors has found his unwavering formula has a new edge of its own.
He was surprised by the women who attended his Tokyo trunk show.
“Everyone says: ‘Oh, everyone in Japan just wears black every day.’
Well, all of the women came to the event in colour. Every one. It could’ve
SUN SENSE
been Sydney on a hot day. Your preconceived notion can change, so Taking cues from his resort collection, Michael Kors
that’s why you have to keep your eyes open … Designers have to get out shares his rules for mastering warm-weather style.
on the street; go to restaurants, go to clubs. I always joke I could just
take a chair and sit on the street at rush hour and watch.” Mix influences are ultra-lightweight but still
For someone once on the brink of bankruptcy and who is now dealing “The best clothes have charm have a tailored appeal to them.”
with falling foot traffic in shopping centres as well as a shift away from and fantasy mixed with a sense
what was once Kors’s bread-and-butter – accessories – his world view is of reality. When I was designing Five staples for the
unshaken. “As crazy and as mixed-up as the world is right now, things my resort collection, I kept Australian summer
can change quickly,” he says. That morning, the marriage equality thinking about the idea of 1. “A romantic dress that can
plebiscite in Australia had returned a ‘yes’ vote, something Kors had escape to an island, but at the go from the sand to a soirée.
followed. “When marriage equality passed in the States, I never dreamt same time, I wanted to juxtapose It makes packing for a summer
in a million years that it would be a reality. My husband and I were that with the polish you find in getaway a breeze.”
laying on the couch watching TV and I just looked over at him and I said: a city. Why not have it all?” 2. “A flatform sandal, because
‘Let’s get married,’” he recalls. “If you’re nervous about things going the this is the season when your
wrong way, remember that they can turn and go the right way.” Poised in the heat shoe changes your outfit.”
His open-mindedness carries him onward – come what will. “We “It’s all about balancing the 3. “A pair of pyjama trousers.
never assume that fashion’s only happening in big cities. It’s not that easiness with something more They work with a tee on the
way anymore.” To Kors, it happens in Sydney, it happens in Shanghai, it polished – a sarong skirt with a weekend, and with a tailored
happens in Byron Bay or Bora Bora, where his beflowered resort blazer, or a ruffled dress paired blazer for the work week.”
collection ebbed into his mind on holidays. “I love this dress: so with a flatform sandal – that 4. “A woven or printed bag
feminine,” he is telling the gathering of a micro floral dress with gives it some substance. And, of that imbues every look with
detachable cover-up. “But let me show you here. You can wear the dress course, when the temperatures a little charm, because fashion
JAKE TERREY
with the sarong like this, or loose, or with the big black belt that you’re are high, you have to pay should be fun.”
wearing,” he nods once more to the woman poised on her seat, who attention to the fabrics and 5. “A maillot that doubles as
beams again and nods. Everyone nods with her. ■ materials. You want things that ready-to-wear; versatility is key.”
64 FEBRUARY 2018
VOGUE PROMOTION
The looks of love

Fusion is a renowned collection
of exquisite rings and pendants
from Georg Jensen, designed by
Nina Koppel. The beauty of her
designs is the flexibility each piece
gives to the wearer to alter the style
according to taste or clothing. Each
piece interlocks seamlessly with
others, allowing for combinations
of yellow, white and rose gold,
with or without gemstones.
Visit www.georgjensen.com.
VOGUE
Simply the zest
For the warmer months,
DIARY
L’Occitane has specially updated
its invigorating Verbena range,
known for its use of the organic
verbena herb that grows along
Explore what’s in store and the paths of Provence, France.
worth having this month. Featuring eau de toilette, lotions,
soaps, a new shower gel and
more, the range is much-loved
for its unique, fresh and zesty
aroma. For further details,
visit www.loccitane.com.au.
Shiny happy people Top of the grade

It’s a quick and convenient way Vera Wang’s latest homeware
to freshen up your look, but dry design for Wedgwood, Vera
shampoo can leave hair looking Degradée, takes inspiration from
dull and parched. Joico Beach and expressionist artists for a truly
Body Shakes clean hair while individual style. The collection,
adding volume without the sticky which includes four-piece sets,
finish. Unlike traditional salt-based serving dishes and teaware,
beach sprays, Joico’s Beach Shake features a beautiful gradient
uses coconut and sunflower oils design in temperate grey and
instead to hydrate hair, leaving white tones. Available from David
it textured, shiny and soft. For Jones, Myer, selected stockists and
details, visit www.joico.com.au. online at www.wedgwood.com.au.
Stroke of genius
Shiseido’s exciting new Inkstroke
Eyeliner series is inspired by the
Japanese art of calligraphy. Made
with a unique gel-based formula,
it’s the epitome of eyeliner
perfection. Effortless and elegant,
the glide-on silky ink applies
immediate colour impact and
definition to your eyes with
just one swift stroke. There
are six shades to choose from.
Go to www.shiseido.com.au.
VOGUE V IEW POINT
Stepping out
Is getting dressed up for a date
too last millennium? By Zara Wong.
T
he last time I went out to a white-
tablecloth restaurant which required
a booking, and put on heels, crystal
earrings and carefully chose my handbag,
I was having dinner with a group of
girlfriends. We volleyed compliments on new
dresses from Albus Lumen and Zimmermann
and noted a pair of statement heels from
Ganni and another from No. 21. The last time
my fiancé and I had a night out together, we
were in the frozen-food aisle of a supermarket
deciding on vanilla ice-cream. It goes without
saying that our clothing was not much to
write home about.
It can’t be just me. A survey conducted by
US Glamour magazine found that 35 per cent
of women in relationships find that the
hardest part for a couple when it comes to
organising a date is finding a mutual free
night. Add to that the influx of dating apps
like Tinder and Bumble and the landscape of
dating has changed. A first date now could be
a quick 30-minute coffee to meet face-to-face
after texting. The same magazine survey
found that 73 per cent of women had gone on
an outing that they were unsure was an actual
date – a social grey area that can be difficult to
navigate. The first date as a sit-down dinner is
a thing of the past. In the 2003 film How to Lose
A Guy in 10 Days, the delightfully alliteratively
named protagonist Andie Anderson, played
by Kate Hudson, sets out in her dating quest
for a magazine article in a series of perfect
date-ready outfits: the nipped-in floral cotton
dress, the cool-girl sports jersey and jeans,
and, finally, a sunshine-yellow silk gown for a
black-tie gala. Even with the usual suspension
of disbelief needed to view a romantic
comedy, this is not normal – and I can say that
because when I had my own How to Lose A
Guy in 10 Days dating adventures for a
magazine article (a story for another day – it
66
ended well), my own repertoire was consistently of the Dion Lee silk embracing of emerging feminist writings. “I think that I wear slightly
blouses with Alexander Wang leather skirts variety, with lace-up more ‘fashion’ things with friends, although my partner has a
Aquazzura flats. (And no, no cocktail events or galas here.) background in fashion,” says Holly Garber, founder of PR company
That film was released 15 years ago, before the advent of instant Golightly PR, who goes out with friends in dresses and fancy flats.
communication and accessibility. Its depiction of date night – in terms of With all the confusion surrounding dating, what you wear – as trivial
outfits, activities and the delineated definition of what the date is – rings as it may be – is one variable that at least can be controlled, and the
naively sweet and out of step in 2018, when lines are blurred between safest route is to lean towards greater self-moderation. It is not the time
occasions and other social events, and when fine-dining institutions such to test-drive a new trend or the new Monse or Anna Quan top that
as Guillaume in Paddington, Marque and Sepia have closed in favour of requires knotting and unknotting when you head to the restrooms.
more casual, bistro fare or for cafes that specialise in all-day breakfast When asked about the fashion element of a date night, Garber says: “It’s
and brunch which, conveniently, are also the more financially wise another effect of social media where people are generally more
choices. And as a friend once observed, conscious of what they are wearing at all
being asked on a date at a white-tablecloth times, as they are constantly photographing
institution in the early stages of the themselves and being photographed. Not
relationship is invariably a cause for that I am advocating date-night selfies by
suspicion for being too full-on, too fast. any means, although I have been guilty of
Now ‘date night’ is more often used as a one or two!” And as Vogue’s senior beauty
broader term about an evening outing, editor Remy Rippon mentioned to me,
whether with friends or a partner, that is there is less of a thrill when trying a new
planned in advance. Romance is no longer fashion look on a date with your long-term
necessary, as long as it is a social pause partner if you live with them. “It takes the
from the day-to-day routine rather than magic away if they see the preparation
idling away senselessly on smartphones process when they live with you,” she says.
(unless it’s to take a photo to commemorate Matthew McConaughey and “There’s less of an unveiling if they see you
the occasion). The conventional Kate Hudson in How to Lose try on eight different outfits and go from
a Guy in 10 Days (2003).
understanding of date-night dressing – no make-up to smoky eyes, but it’s your
that is, one with a romantic paramour – is friends who see you show up at the
to convey one part laidback cool and one
part allure without veering too far in either
“YOU DON’T WANT TO LOOK restaurant in your look – without seeing
the process – who are going to be
direction, wrapped up within an outer LIKE YOU’RE TRYING TOO HARD. more impressed.”
shell of effortless ease. “You just don’t want I’D BE MUCH MORE LIKELY TO When Kelly Hume, fashion director of
to look like you’re trying too hard,” says
writer and content consultant Katherine
GO ALL-OUT SEXY FOR A NIGHT GQ and Stellar, first met her husband, she
remembers wearing a black long-sleeved
Ormerod on what to wear on a conventional WITH MY GIRLFRIENDS” skater Tome dress, finished off with sheer
date. “And, personally, I’d be much more black stockings and Chanel kitten heels,
likely to go all-out sexy for a night with my chosen, Hume says, because “I’m quite tall
girlfriends: I’d make more effort for my girls than a date!” and I found that a stiletto can be quite intimidating for some men.
It is a point worth considering: who are women really dressing for? I needn’t have worried, he isn’t that sort of guy. When you are first
Marian Mays Martin wrote in 1940: “If women really dressed to please dating, you are trying to make a lasting impression, so what you wear
men, they wouldn’t have blood red nails and sticky lips. They most seems so important on every level. As the relationship evolves, you
certainly wouldn’t wear the wacky hats they do, or the wackier shoes. begin to dress for yourself again rather than your partner.”
It’s always been my story, and I’m still sticking to it, that women dress And now that they have an 18-month-old daughter, date nights are
to please themselves. After all, what’s wrong with that?” a rare occurrence for Hume and her husband, and her choice of fashion
The fashion aesthete will get more credit from their peers – and not has equally evolved to flats worn with jeans or a fitted midi-length
their romantic partners – for wearing more boundary-pushing looks. dress. It is for friends she saves her Jacquemus shirt with oversized
A L A M Y S N A P P E R M E D I A
Think more man-repeller than man-getter, to use the terms that has polka dots and shoulder pads, a look that was lauded as one of the
slipped into mainstream fashion parlance thanks to Leandra Medine, highlights of the autumn/winter ’17/’18 runways. “I recall getting ready
whose Man Repeller content platform was built around espousing the to wear it to a dinner with friends, and my dad, who was in the room at
joys of challenging ‘man-repelling’ silhouettes (think less skin and not the time, said to me: ‘Well, that’s quite a statement.’ My husband simply
a bandage silhouette in sight), which goes hand-in-hand with its nodded in agreement.” ■
FEBRUARY 2018 67
VOGUE V IEW POINT
STYLE
SURF’S UP
As well as drawing on her relaxed sense
of style, Emma Crowther Goodwin calls
upon California’s surf culture and her
Australian upbringing for her new Malibu
hotel, the Surfrider. By Zara Wong.
PHOTOG R APHS J U LI E ADAM S
68
A
cool breeze cuts through the dry heat that permeates the air in
Malibu, the stretch of coastline west of downtown Los Angeles.
It is a sensation typical to the area, as Emma Crowther
Goodwin points out. Growing up between Brisbane and Byron Bay, she
found herself feeling quickly at home in the laidback beach community
of Malibu, where she has co-founded new boutique hotel the Surfrider
with her husband, Matthew Goodwin, and their business partner
Alessandro Zampedri. “It is a California beach house definitely, but
people also see a little bit of an Australian influence here, too,” she says
of the hotel, which opened late 2017. Guests staying in the 18 rooms and
two suites include locals who remember the original Surfrider Motel,
which was built in 1953 and had its heyday in the 60s and 70s, and
celebrities seeking a more intimate luxury hotel experience.
As creative director, Crowther Goodwin has infused the hotel with
her personal touch, one that draws upon her Australian upbringing
and her perspective of California as an outsider. Her husband, who
grew up in the area, had always dreamed of creating a holiday
experience that encapsulated Californian coastal living and the
expectations of Malibu locals: the wealthy, the famous and the creative.
“I’ve definitely got a gypsy soul and am a little bit of a hippie,” explains
Crowther Goodwin of her dress style. She is also inspired by travel – she
left her home in Queensland following university for what was originally
intended to be a holiday in the US, but ended up staying in New York,
where she worked in media and real estate investment, for a decade.
While visually her sense of style combines elements of Australia and
California, her time in New York gave her a refined edge. “I feel like I’m
an Earth child deep down, but when you spend that long living in New
York surrounded by hustle and bustle, there’s that balance there.”
Now a permanent resident of California, she tends to channel
vacation-ready fashion. “Most days I like to feel like I’m on holidays –
relaxed and bohemian with a touch of sophistication,” she says, adding
that she gravitates towards natural fibres in clothing and textiles.
Fashion designers she has on regular rotation include Isabel Marant,
Chloé, Ulla Johnson, La Bottega Di Brunella and Zimmermann (a
reminder of home), for outfits that allow her to transition from a day of
work to evenings, when she plays host to hotel guests over cocktails. Hats
are her signature, with a favourite purchased in Valladolid, a small town
in Mexico. “They’re practical and stylish; a finishing touch that makes
a relaxed outfit look more polished,” she says. The accessory has even
become a decorative feature in the hotel, which houses a collection of
vintage handmade hats sourced from a former hat museum in Hawaii.
While there is an obvious similarity in Crowther Goodwin’s personal
and interior styles – neutral tones and a holiday-esque vibe – her
preferences also stem from a common mantra. “I dress based on the
way I want to feel – like I’m on holiday – and that comes out naturally
in my interior style.” The design process of the hotel, therefore, was
based on how she wanted guests to feel in the space, and how they
Opposite: Emma wanted to experience their time at the Surfrider. “It’s been about
H A I R A N D M A K E- U P: H E L E N R O B E RT S O N
Crowther Goodwin, creating the experience first and designing backwards from that, which
co-owner and creative
we had the luxury of doing, because it was our own project,” she says.
director of Malibu’s
Surfrider hotel. This Working on the Surfrider for the past four years was all encompassing.
page, from top: the “At one point I literally became what I termed ‘the method designer’,”
beachscape of Malibu;
the hotel sign on the she says, laughing. “Our house was covered in images and swatches of
Pacific Coast Highway; how we wanted guests to feel; it was one big mood board.”
Crowther Goodwin on Crowther Goodwin and her husband met in New York, when he was
the beach wearing a
vintage linen cover-up. a student of architecture; he went on to oversee the redevelopment of
Manhattan’s Spring Studios. His expertise came to the fore during →
FEBRUARY 2018
VOGUE V IEW POINT
the project. “I also need to give some credit to Matt here,” says Crowther Right: Helmut Newton’s Polaroids.
Goodwin. “I’ve travelled that journey with him [architecturally and Below: in the living room,
Face, a 70s ceramic, sits atop
aesthetically]. We live it and breathe it. When we move into a space we photographic book, California
feel it and dream up the experience we want to create, and then we Surfing and Climbing in the Fifties.
create it as a husband-and-wife team. When we have a vision, he has an
amazing ability to bring it all together and make it work technically.”
While her interior flair is self-taught, the successful completion of
the Surfrider has meant that other Malibu locals have since asked her
to work on their homes. “It’s so flattering and aligns to the thinking
that ‘ignorance brings innovation’. If you’ve done something for so
long you’re stuck in a system or a pattern so you miss opportunities;
whereas if you’re new to it, you see it differently and it gives the
opportunity to approach it with gut feeling instead. There’s an
innocence to it,” she explains.
An extensive traveller, Crowther Goodwin buys art and furniture
while away and has it sent home in shipping containers. “I don’t think
design and creativity are things that can be compartmentalised into
categories like ‘interiors’, ‘fashion’, or ‘event design’,” she says of her
holistic take. “I love hosting and I’m fascinated by how every decision
influences guests’ experience: the menu, the music, the lighting,
interior design. Hospitality is the ultimate form of hosting.”
With her husband being a Malibu native and Crowther Goodwin an
Australian expat, it was important that the hotel really represented
Malibu style. So while Australian inclinations can be seen in the open-
plan spaces, reclaimed wooden floorboards and the hotel’s harmony
with the natural environment, Crowther Goodwin wanted her guests
to gain an understanding of what it means to be in California. “This
foundation of my Australian roots is really at the core of who I am and
my approach to design,” she says. “I want Australians to come to LA
and to really understand California and everything it has to offer.
There was nowhere that really embodied the coast of California in its
design and experience, and we wanted to fill that gap.”
As such, the Surfrider brings the best of local artists and
entrepreneurs, with suppliers like Canyon Coffee, run by a young
couple who roast beans locally; robes by Parachute Home; and ceramics
made by artists who reside nearby – some of whom once lived in the
Surfrider prior to its renovation. It’s a hyper-local approach that
Crowther Goodwin hints may be replicated in other hotel properties
the couple plan on undertaking in the future.
While the pair clearly take advantage of the coastal atmosphere, there
are surprises in the hotel that elevates the property from a simple beach
shack. The mezzanine-style library, for instance, displays artworks
owned by the couple, such as 1960s Le Corbusier and Picasso line
drawings. “Even the furniture choices are not typically light and
beachy,” says Crowther Goodwin. “They’re more architecturally
forward, almost reflective of an urban space, so it’s a more sophisticated
approach to a beach hotel, especially considering the clientele who visit
Malibu.” She adds: “We definitely wanted it to be architecturally driven
– we probably took the hard way there because it’s much easier to do
a light little beach house.”
The couple’s plans to work on other properties will see them replicate
the Surfrider’s local approach of reading the local geography and applying
it to design, experience and hospitality. And as for what is next for Crowther Goodwin in the hotel
Surfrider: “Time will tell. I think that comes down to human interaction library, which, like her personal
sartorial style, is awash in natural
with the space which, to me, is always the finishing touch.” ■
hues and textures.
70
J U L I E A DA M S
Left: the hotel reception area. Top: a linen textile, Pray

for Surf by Ali Beletic, hangs in the library, with a 1920s
Moroccan rug on the floor. Above: original Le Corbusier
line work from the Cortège (1960) series, also in the library.
FEBRUARY 2018
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V O G U E
HARDER,
BETTER,
FASTER,
BRIGHTER
It may be possible
to work out and
wake up with
younger-looking
skin. What better
reason to renew
your gym
membership?
By Remy Rippon.
B E A U T Y
ALIQUE
74
CREDIT
FEBRUARY 2018 75
Chanel boutiques.
P.O.A, from the
exercise ball, both
Chanel bodysuit and
VOGUE BE AUT Y
“Freshly
exercised skin
has an obvious
rosy glow,
however, it’s
the day
following
exercise where
we see the real
benefits that
oxygen-rich
blood has on
our skin”
76
A
supercharged serum? A painful in-clinic One of the most common misconceptions about exercise is that it leads to breakouts.
treatment? A new ultra-blurring primer?” I asked “Some people feel that if you’ve got sweat sitting on your skin it will cause acne,” says
my friend at a recent al fresco lunch date, as the Gunatheesan. “Sweat is just a toxin secretion, which doesn’t actually clog your pores
sun highlighted her glowing complexion. “Nope, cardio,” as people may think.” In fact, a powerful cardio workout may do quite the opposite.
she quipped, knowing that her skin exhibited the type of Exercise reduces inflammation (one of the main causes of acne), plus it levels out
radiance she thought she left behind in her 20s. As it turned cortisol, the ‘stress’ hormone, which, among other things, can trigger flare-ups.
out, her revived visage wasn’t down to a fancy new beauty As for collagen production, the jury’s still out on whether exercise really does dial
regimen (although it must be said, she’s diligent when it it up. “There’s no real evidence,” says Gunatheesan, “but it improves muscle tone, and
comes to skincare), but the result of her daily sweat session. that can give the appearance of skin just looking a lot better.” Manually working the
While we’re all well versed on the health benefits of muscles in your face, however, either through a brawny facial or daily facial exercises,
exercise, growing evidence suggests it may also be can help to release toxins and encourages blood flow for a plumper complexion.
responsible for evening out skin tone, flushing toxins and It should be noted that simply raising your heart rate won’t automatically grant you
calming puffiness. “Apart from your liver, the skin is the a flawless visage, and some skin concerns are exacerbated by vigorous activity. “There
biggest detoxifying agent. Sweating removes toxins which are certain conditions that get worse with exercise, like rosacea,” explains Gunatheesan,
not only makes you feel better, it rejuvenates your skin,” says adding that anything that promotes blood flow to the skin may dial up redness.
dermatologist Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan. The premise is While many trainers urge their clients to switch up their workout to boost interest,
simple: when we push ourselves to the point of perspiration swapping out intense, repetitive motions can also help your skin in the long run.
and that unpleasant shade of tomato red – a result of “A long-term disadvantage for athletes is that the skin’s collagen and fibrous tissues
increased blood flow to the dermis – our skin is being sent (along with fatty cells) are thinned and the skin is less supported,” says Petroni.
essential nutrients, hormones and increased oxygen. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the repetitive impact of pounding the pavement or
Sydney-based facialist Jocelyn Petroni says she sees other unforgiving surfaces can result in sagging facial muscles. While this could also
a vast difference in the complexions of clients who exercise be due to fat loss, perhaps not a direct result of persistent running, interspersing
regularly, which she likens to a pregnancy glow. “Freshly low-intensity interval-training workouts or a more gentle yoga session can be
exercised skin has an obvious rosy glow, however, it’s the beneficial. Likewise, there is mounting evidence to suggest heat-centric activities,
day following exercise where we see the real benefits that such as Bikram yoga and infrared sauna, may actually worsen pigmentation.
oxygen-rich blood has on our skin,” says Petroni, who Topically, what we put on our skin pre- and post-workout can amp up the benefits.
maintains the complexion of many high-profile clients, Knowing that many women head straight from the boardroom to barre, Clinique
including health and fitness advocate Michelle Bridges. has launched Fit, a range of sweat-proof moisturisers, lip and cheek tints and post-
“Increased circulation carries blood to feed the skin workout essentials. “We know women are wearing make-up to the gym or to work
nutrients, hormones and oxygen from the inside, which out, but still want to take care of their skin,” says Kerry Stenzler, state education
gives the skin a healthy glow and plump appearance.” manager for Clinique. “If you’re going to wear make-up to work out in, it needs to be
Research touting the positive link between physical long-lasting, lightweight and not clog pores or cause breakouts.” Post-workout, resist
activity and our skin isn’t extensive (after all, the verdict the urge to over-scrub, says Gunatheesan, as frictional irritation can aggravate the
is unanimous: exercise is good for us), but a 2014 study by skin. Instead, opt for a gentle cleanser to slough away sweat and debris. And it may
researchers at Canada’s McMaster University found that seem common knowledge, but it bears repeating, that if you’re exercising outside,
exercising can actually reverse skin ageing (even when it’s slather on a good quality SPF. Moreover, tying your hair into a top knot can deter
taken up later in life), and that people who exercised pore-clogging oils from gravitating towards the skin during a workout. After all,
regularly sported younger-looking skin than their peers. this is all in the name of glowing skin, not an oil slick. ■
GYM JUNKIES SKIN HEROES FOR BEFORE, DURING OR AFTER YOUR SWEAT SESH.
A L I Q U E G E O R G I N A E G A N E D WA R D U R R U T I A
CliniqueFit Post- Rimmel Scandaleyes

Make P:rem Elizabeth Arden Bourjois Sculpt Chanel Le Lift Workout Mattifying Moroccanoil Waterproof Kohl Kajal
Wrapping Me Firming Ceramide Lift and Firm Bronze Sunkissed Firming Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer, $35, and Dry Shampoo eye pencil in Purple,
Sauna Mask, $8. Sculpting Gel, $135. Highlighter, $25. V-Flash, $145. Neutralizing Face Light Tones, $40. Brown and Sparkling
Powder, $47. Black, $11 each.
FEBRUARY 2018 7 7
VOGUE BE AUT Y
Better together
Friends Jodhi Meares and Nadia Fairfax have
become collaborators after realising that
a certain thread – the energetic Australian
lifestyle – runs strongly in both their lives.
ST YLING PE T TA CH UA
G
ymastics and rugby might seem far removed
in the world of sport, but they’ve come to
define the slight and perpetually energetic
Nadia Fairfax. The daughter of a former Wallaby,
Fairfax cut her path as an elite gymnast before making
her entrée to the style world as a creative polymath. A
friendship with The Upside founder and former model
Jodhi Meares seemed kismet after they were joined
together via another sport: “Surfing!” explains Fairfax,
who met Meares through mutual friends Kelly Slater
and girlfriend Kalani Miller at Pipeline on Oahu’s
North Shore in Hawaii. Meares, heading up a label
with an all-inclusive vision, saw an ambition in Fairfax,
or ‘Nardi’ as she is known to many, that captured the
energy of The Upside, so invited her friend to design a
collection. Writing to one another, the pair discusses Meares wears The Upside tank top, $79. Her own Rolex watch.
Fairfax wears The Upside crop top, $109, and leggings, $149.
the driving creative force that friendship can be.
Jodhi Meares: “We share a passion for sports and
fitness. I was so interested to hear about your “And I think it’s important to note that I genuinely loved working with you on the
background in gymnastics and your family sporting design process; I think our shared love of gymnastics was instrumental in the creative
history. How did this inform you as a person, and process. I really enjoyed your references to Russian gymnasts from the 70s to the 90s.”
your style choices?” JM: “After our first meeting, I think our friendship grew immediately from that point
Nadia Fairfax: “Dad was a Wallaby, he then crossed and we ended up asking you to join us for The Upside #OwnTheMorning weekend at
codes and won two premierships with the Roosters and Wolgan Valley. What do you enjoy about nourishing your body and soul?”
even went on to coach. There was no chance I wasn’t NF: “What exactly does that incorporate, Jodes? I love sport and, of course, I enjoy things
going to love sport. I lived and breathed it my entire that incorporate a bit of wellness, but I wouldn’t say I spend a lot of time ‘nourishing my
childhood. I remember doing almost every sport under soul’ – I think you should step in here and teach me how to meditate!
the sun when I was really young. It was clear I had “Life is about balance. Live life on your own terms. Be healthy when your body craves
a deep love for diamante-spangled leotards; I ended up it, then eat a block of chocolate when you feel like it. Run when you can, walk when you’re
at the Australian Institute of Sport for gymnastics by the not up to it! I think the less you tell yourself ‘no’, the less you crave the naughty. What
time I was nine and spent eight years there. tends to nourish my mind is a fabulous long lunch and a great boogie with dear friends!”
“I was always dressed slightly differently to every JM: “Nadia, you have such a good eye. You always find the best pieces. What are your
P R O D U C E R : A L I C E B I R R E L L H A I R : KO H M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D
girl I competed against: I wore two pigtail buns instead personal favourite pieces in the collection?“
of one, I wore ribbons instead of a scrunchie. I liked to NF: “There is a retro-looking velour tracksuit that I adore. Throw on a pair of heels and
stand out! I guess that is something that has stuck.” it’s even worthy of a strut down Fifth Avenue. I was really inspired by the gymnastics era
NF: “You are such a clever lady. How did the idea to of Nadia Comăneci and Olga Korbut (oh, those 70s tracksuits!). As well as sharing my
collaborate on a capsule collection come about?” name, Nadia was the first gymnast to receive a perfect 10. I adored her.”
JM: “I just discovered what a truly authentic athlete JM: “We see a lot of amazing qualities in you that we think epitomise the brand: your
and person you are. I think what is really interesting is positive energy, fit and healthy outlook on life and you are entrepreneurial yet
that you went on to represent Australia in the national manage everything with a sense of fun! What elements drew you to the brand?”
team [for gymnastics], which I just find incredible. NF: “You, Jodhi! You are magical. You radiate cool. You are exactly the type of woman
What is intriguing is that you have such a gorgeous and I want to become: authentic, loyal, brave and full of heart – the qualities I appreciate most
feminine aesthetic, but at the same time you are really in a human. Knowing you and understanding your personality makes me fall in love
into high-intensity sports: football, soccer, basketball, with each and every item The Upside creates. I feel like I know what you are trying to
everything – you are the world’s greatest jock! achieve: a happy life for all. I love that.” ■
78
Nadia Fairfax (left) wears The
Upside polo top, $129, and
pants, $189. Mara & Mine
loafers, $198. Jodhi Meares
wears The Upside jacket,
$249, and shorts, $169.
Chanel sneakers, P.O.A.,
from the Chanel boutiques.
Her own necklace.
FEBRUARY 2018 79
VOGUE BE AUT Y
Kit yourself out with goal-oriented beauty staples that’ll have your back from prep to recovery.
STARTING LINE
PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA
ART DIREC TION D IJANA SAVO R
W O R D S : L I L I T H H A R D I E LU P I C A
1. Evo Bruce 22mm natural boar bristle radial brush, $40. 2. Joico Blonde Life Brightening Veil UV and
Thermal Defence Multi-tasker, $34. 3. Dior Capture Youth Glow Booster Age-Delay Mattifying Serum,
CLOSE UP
$162. 4. Chanel Le Volume De Chanel Waterproof Mascara, $56. 5. Sisley Phyto-Sourcils Design eyebrow
pencil in Châtain, $75. 6. Chanel La Crème Main Smooth-Soften-Brighten hand cream, $87. 7. Fenty
Beauty Invisimatte Blotting Paper, $24. 8. Bourjois Air Mat Powder in Apricot Beige, $27. 9. Rimmel
Lasting Finish 25H Breathable Concealer in Light 200, $18. 10. Tom Ford Orchid Soleil Lip Color, $88.
11. Payot 48-hr Anti-Perspirant Skin Perfecting Spray, $32. 12. Beautyblender make-up sponge, $30.
13. 111Skin Cryo Face Serum, $262. 14. The Beauty Chef Glow Inner Beauty Powder, $18 for 5 sachets.
80 FEBRUARY 2018
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VOGUE BE AUT Y
WELLNESS
Trends
with
benefits
There is never a shortage of new
wellness trends to try. But for lasting
transformation, find the ones that
suit you best, writes Jody Scott.
H
ands up who doesn’t like a trend with
benefits? The wellness revolution is
the US$3.7 trillion global mega trend
that just keeps on giving. But as wellness
heads mainstream, healthy habits are
getting personal.
Diagnostic testing, activity and emotion
tracking and algorithms that allow us to
customise our own health solutions are
delivering bespoke benefits.
However, confusion is also trending, thanks
to conflicting reports and an abundance of
pseudo experts who have left us wondering
what to believe.
According to Mintel’s 2018 Global Food and
Drink Trends survey, this confusion is
motivating us to develop individual wellness
routines that suit our unique nutritional,
physical and emotional needs.
Personalised approaches to fitness are also
rising as we trade #fitspo, #thighgap and an
aggressive, unhealthy pursuit of perfection
for a gentler approach to self-improvement
and personal growth.
Our constantly connected, rapidly changing
world is making us crave rest and recovery. So
many of the current trends – from float tanks
and infrared saunas to sound baths,
meditation and mindfulness – all offer ways
to press pause.
Energiser bunnies take note: the healthiest
trends emerging are balance and flexibility.
Know yourself, choose what suits your body
best, do it when it suits you and stick to it.
82
1. Know thyself fair trade and minimal packaging are empowering
Diagnostic testing, activity and emotion tracking are Millennials to vote with their wallets and support brands
helping us get to know and bio-hack ourselves better for making a difference.
weight-loss, optimum wellness and longevity.
10. Data selfies: the new naval gazing
2. Customisation Fitness trackers will not lie to you. They shine a light on
The desire for greater self-knowledge is driving demand everything you do, from calories consumed to heartbeat,
for personalised vitamin supplements, bespoke skincare blood pressure and metabolic rate. Knowledge is power.
and aromatherapy, boutique fitness and one-on-one
stretch studios. 11. Sensory deprivation
Float tanks have been around for decades. But new space-
3. Analogue adventures in nature age looking tanks have reinvented floating. An hour in a
Unplugging, device detoxing, electronic sundowns and silent, dark tank of salty water is said to be the equivalent
getting off the grid are the antidotes to 21st-century of eight hours sleep, meditation minus the mantra, or even
anxiety, stress and digital attention deficits. For those who going back to the womb.
like to hashtag their hikes, try going device-free on your
next foray into the forest and feel the serenity. 12. Hemp
Only recently approved for human consumption in
4. Treat yourself Australia, food-grade hemp is low in the psychotropic
Permission to enjoy healthy treats or satisfy cravings is chemical tetrahydrocannabinol, but rich in omega 3 and
becoming an integral aspect of self-care to address the need omega 6 fatty acids and contains about 25 per cent protein.
for stress relief, according to Mintel’s 2018 trends survey. Expect to see these nutritious seeds in cold-pressed oils,
dairy-free milks, snack bars and more.
5. Resistance training
It seems everyone got the message about walking 10,000 13. Portion control
steps a day, but new research reveals that women aren’t Deprivation is being replaced by a move toward moderation.
heeding the call to participate in resistance training: less It seems you can have your cake and eat it, too. Rather than
than one in five Australian women do at least two strength ditching sugar or sweet treats altogether, bite-sized treats
training sessions per week. Ladies, start lifting. made from healthier ingredients are giving us permission to
indulge in a moderate way. Just remember to stop at one.
6. Body clocks
The 2017 Nobel Prize for Medicine or Physiology was 14. Bottled botanicals
awarded for research on circadian rhythms, which regulate Healthy drinks infused with Chinese and Ayurvedic
sleep patterns, body temperature, blood pressure, herbs, spices, adaptogenic herbs and other botanicals with
metabolism and hormone production but get hammered benefits to enhance your skin, digestion and mood. For
by international travel, shift work and modern gadgetry. relaxation, try chamomile, lavender and lemon balm;
Watch this space; science is only just starting to unravel the for concentration rosemary and ginkgo biloba; and for
secrets of our internal clocks. Just in time. stimulation ginseng and gotu kola. Happy hour indeed.
7. HIIT 15. Virtual healing

High-intensity interval training is fast, effective and Anxiety may be rising but Millennials are embracing apps
predicted to be the top fitness trend in 2018, according to and online counselling to address mental health issues.
the American College of Sports Medicine. Seeking help is losing its stigma, and this generation
believes maintaining emotional health is as important as
8. LISS eating well and keeping fit.
Low-intensity steady-state exercise is for those days when
your body needs a gentler approach. Because you can’t go 16. Feel the vibrations
hard all the time. Foam rolling is like having your own personal masseuse on
call to release tight spots and tension in your connective
9. Conscious consumption tissue, soothe sore muscles, get rid of lactic acid post-workout
ALIQUE
Ethical activewear made from recycled plastics, organic and help prevent injury. But the one everyone really wants
farm-fresh produce, eating local, transparency on labels, right now is the vibrating Hyperice Vyper 2.0 roller. ■
FEBRUARY 2018 8 3
VOGUE BE AUT Y
Mugler
Aura EDP,
90ml for
$199.
SCENT
Pushing the limits

In the ever-changing world of fragrance, it takes something deeply unique to stand
out, which makes Mugler’s newest offering all the more special. By Remy Rippon.
ART DIREC TION MAN DY ALE X
PHOTOG R APH G EO RG I NA EGAN
B
lockbuster scents – those that attract such a devoted they would say: ‘We want something different,’” says perfumer
following their relevance transcends time, generations and Marie Salamagne, who worked alongside noses Daphné Bugey,
trends – can be a brand’s Achilles’ heel. With such success, Amandine Clerc-Marie and Christophe Raynaud.
how does a fragrance house create a follow-up that’s as enticing Different is what they got. On first spritz, crisp and sparkling
and hypnotic as its shiny first-born? rhubarb leaf seems to float off the skin, while orange blossom
Many, of course, fall short, failing to deliver a juice with the gusto brings an edge of femininity and clarity to the juice. As buttery as it
of their predecessors. Occasionally, some succeed. In the agile and is intense, bourbon vanilla pod adds a welcome kick of spice, while
competitive fragrance industry, to have one star recruit is a triumph; Madagascan wolf wood (a plant, not an animal by-product) is
two is nothing short of remarkable. Which is why pioneering smooth and smoky like a soothing rum on cold night.
French fashion brand Mugler has become the unlikely olfactive The Mugler signature and the point of difference really comes
breakout star. In the early 90s, when many French fashion houses into play with Tiger Liana, which has never before been used in
were turning their gazes to the lucrative world of perfume, Mugler perfumery. “It brings the intensity and all the mysterious spark,”
did so with aplomb. The brand’s debut scent, Angel, introduced the says Salamagne. It’s almost animalic in its concentration: rich like
world to gourmand notes and simultaneously carved out an nectar, it’s as if the perfumers ignored everything they had learnt
entirely new category of scent. Alien followed, the unique alchemy about fragrance mixology and opted to push the envelope. “We
of familiar white florals quickly garnering loyal devotees and have to push our limits, try new things, especially try new
anointing the brand as a defining force in fragrance. ingredients. And one of the most interesting things is to overdose
Unsurprising, then, that expectations for the brand’s latest the ingredients,” says Salamagne.
perfume, Aura, were lofty. Could Mugler replicate its past success? It’s rare to uncover something so unique, but to do something safe
“It was a big challenge, because everyone is waiting for us to create would have surely fallen short. “It was brand-new for us,” says
something powerful,” says Pierre Aulas, consultant and olfactory Aulas of the myriad perfumers he assembled and the resulting
artistic director of Mugler, who tasked not one but four perfumers juice. Even the bottle, which is refillable, is unlike anything on
to concoct the scent. department store shelves, a facetted heart-shaped bottle in an
In characteristically Mugler fashion, on application the juice intense, absinthe-green hue. Like the juice, it’s unapologetic and
bombards the senses – a deliberate move by the house to push the unmistakably Mugler. “We believe in fragrance with a
olfactory boundaries, a formula that has served the brand well flamboyance,” says Sandrine Groslier, president of Mugler. “We are
historically. “It doesn’t smell like anything on the market, because free to create and it is important that we create a fragrance that can
every time we smelt one that would remind us of something else, stand the test of time.” ■
84 FEBRUARY 2018
VOGUE BE AUT Y
SKIN
Face value
Can a humble facial have the power to heal and transform
from within? Kathleen Baird-Murray investigates.
ILLUSTR ATION B L AI R B R EITEN STEI N
F
acials with a side of reiki? Healing crystal massage tools? Talking system.” He gently pinches my face, working across the top of the
wrinkles away? If you thought beauty treatments were about eyebrows before moving into smoother, pressing gestures from the top
delivering a pretty complexion or loosening up muscles, then of the nose to the cheekbones. It brings instant relief to the sinuses, and
you, quite frankly, are not getting your money’s worth. The best is so relaxing that I drift in and out of a light sleep.
practitioners are delving much deeper, to deliver maximum benefits to Of course, with all these treatments, it’s hard to quantify what is
skin, body and soul from the inside out. Mindfulness and meditation doing the hard work: tools, touch or talk. Hypnotherapist Marisa Peer
have become wellness normcore, and when it comes to personal doesn’t massage the skin or apply unctuous creams, but nonetheless she
introspection, smart women are now seeking assistance from the experts is often told she has made her clients look 10 years younger. She
to restore and renew on a whole new level. Sure, such treatments are advocates positivity, optimism and happiness as the best beauty
unapologetic in demanding that you leave your cynicism at the door, but therapies. “When people come in you can see the pain and tension
with nothing to lose, why would you not opt for this spiritual bolt-on? etched in their face. When they’ve released that trauma, they look
“Being healthy for most people means ‘not being sick’, but I prefer the instantly younger.”
World Health Organization definition: ‘a state of complete physical, Although the simple act of talking to someone empathetic is helpful,
mental and social wellbeing, and not merely the absence of disease or it’s unlikely that holistic therapies can provide an adequate substitute
infirmity’,” says osteopath Boniface Verney-Carron, who is often for psychoanalysis. Most wellbeing practitioners have little formal
described as having ‘healing powers’ that go beyond the training in psychology. Is that irresponsible? “Holistic
usual crack and manipulation. “I am constantly reminding therapists are helpful in some respects in that they are
myself that the person before me has a mind, a body, a wife “YOU ARE allowing people to unload their problems in a safe,
and kids, in other words, a whole life. It’s only when, as
a practitioner, you grasp all of this that you find a point
DOING SO contained environment,” says Micheline Hogan, of the
Tavistock Society of Psychotherapists. “The element of
of resonance that enables you to treat them.” MUCH MORE touch allows a client to relax, which relaxes the mind, and
Instinct and intuition are key. “When you feel that THAN JUST they feel the need to talk.” The downside is that nothing is
connection between your client and yourself, then you are
doing so much more than just touching their skin,” says
TOUCHING challenged – when was the last time your beauty therapist
pushed you to consider anything deeper than surface
facialist and healer Anastasia Achilleos, whose Method of THEIR SKIN” feelings? “A good psychoanalyst, on the other hand, will
Excellence treatment at London’s Lanesborough Club & establish a trust with their patient and explore what they
Spa takes facials to another level. “It’s not a facial by are experiencing.”
numbers, it’s more like: ‘Hello, I can feel these knots in your stomach, let I visit Toby Aspin, whose light-energy facial is a hands-free technique
me try to release your sacrum, because that’s where we hold fear.’“ To based on Pranic energy healing that is loved for its apparent wrinkle-
Achilleos, it’s bizarre and outdated that facials should generally only smoothing effect, albeit a temporary one. As his hands hover a foot away
focus on the surface of the face. Quite right, too. from my body I feel a slight breeze and some occasional heat, “all of
A treatment with facialist and massage therapist Beata which means your brain is translating the vibes that are coming in”, he
Aleksandrowicz starts by looking into the eyes before opening up a claims, before warning me that “75 per cent of people get a splitting
conversation, often adding elements of Theta healing (a type of intuitive headache afterwards”. When I still have the headache – and glow – he
energy work) to spot internal stresses. “You have to look at body, mind promised 48 hours later, I’m willing to believe that something is at work.
and soul,” she says. “Our body tells us to release the shoulders, but our Not wanting to leave it to the Nurofen, I book in for a follow-up
mind will tell us we need to be ready to face challenges and so to keep osteopathy consultation with Verney-Carron. We talk for about 20
them tense. Body muscle work will make a change, but if I approach it minutes, then there’s some gentle prodding and poking as I lie on the
also from a mental stage the results can be amazing.” couch. My kidneys and ovaries are a little out of whack, he says, echoing
Facial reflexologist Paolo Lai has other tools at his disposal, namely Lai’s assessment. And my emotional wellbeing? “I’ve worked on your
crystals to amplify energy that claims to help cleanse the mind and gall bladder, where you were storing a lot of frustration.” (He actually
soul. He also has a full-moon Tibetan singing bowl to add an element of uses the word anger, but I’m slightly uncomfortable thinking of myself
sound healing to his Crystal Facial at Neville in London. “I have clients as an angry person.) “This will release the tension in your shoulders,
coming for weekly sessions over a period of 12 weeks or so,” he says. which were very tight.” By the way, that headache is gone. That’s not
“It’s not just the face that is lifted, it’s their spirits, because I am not just something my psychotherapist could do. Although she might want to
working on the surface of the skin but at a deep level in the nervous challenge me to explore my, ahem, ‘frustration’. ■
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FEBRUARY 2018 87
VOGUE HE A LTH
The light-filled
cafe space on
the ground floor.
Robby Ingham (left) wears his

own clothes. Keiran Barry
wears a Country Road T-shirt,
$60. Mr P. shirt, $250.
Giorgio Armani jeans, $810.
A towering tree is
a commanding
presence in
the atrium.
Banks of skylights
open up the gym area.
WELLNESS
Fit for purpose

The Well, a slick new wellness hub in
Bondi, is tapping into a global hunger
for a more holistic approach to exercise
and wellbeing. By Remy Rippon.
B
ondi Beach, 5am. Just a few short years ago, the shoreline might
have been dotted with late-night revellers fresh off the dance
floor of a nearby haunt, navigating their way home before the
sun peered over the horizon. Now, there’s a menagerie of soft-sand-
running groups, boot-campers and yogis jump-starting their day with
a collective sweat session alongside surfers. Not a hangover in sight.
It echoes the current movement sweeping fitness hotspots like Los
Angeles, New York and London, which sees new social connections
surfacing between namastes. Take Equinox, the US-based elite health
club that marries fitness classes, spa treatments and organic snack bars
under one convenient umbrella. Likewise, KX Life in London’s well-to-do
88
A chic locker
Former Australian room at The Well.
Ballet dancer
Brooke Lockett in
the Pilates studio
where she teaches
barre. Lockett
wears a Lululemon
top, $75, and
tights, $128.
Ingham’s farm on the

South Coast of New
South Wales. Left:
feeding the chooks.
suburb of Chelsea not only boasts a member’s club and spa, but a fully a clever move. According to a 2016 report by the Australia Sports
fledged restaurant where its members swap gin and tonics for green Commission, we’re spending more than $10 billion a year on gym and
M A K E- U P: G I L L I A N C A M P B E L L A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
juices and grain bowls. It may be a phrase we’ve heard countless times, club memberships, as well as physical activities. But Ingham and
but it bears repeating: in 2018, health is the newest luxury. Barry’s fresh take on the cookie-cutter gym environment means they
Fitting then that Robby Ingham, who brought designer brands like offer a level of detail usually reserved for elite athletes.
S T Y L I S T: P E T TA C H U A P H OTO G R A P H S : J A K E T E R R E Y H A I R : D I A N E G O R G I E V S K I
Givenchy and Dries Van Noten to fashionable Sydneysiders via his Trainers are replaced with exercise physiologists, who monitor
eponymous Oxford Street boutique, is the driving force behind Bondi’s movement and improvement. Naturopaths, physiotherapists,
newest healthy hangout, The Well. “As I’ve said to people over the last psychologists and even kinesiologists round out the stellar line-up of
couple of years, wellness is the new black,” says Ingham, who opened experts at hand for one-on-one appointments. Perhaps it’s the wellness
the club with exercise scientist Keiran Barry. equivalent of temptation bundling, that is, pairing something deemed
A welcome respite from the swimwear and tourist shops of Bondi’s challenging (such as seeing a gruelling Pilates burn class) with something
bustling Campbell Parade, The Well’s open entrance houses a healthy cafe we genuinely look forward to (a nourishing post-workout refuel).
complete with freshly picked produce from Ingham’s south-coast farm. It’s the manifestation of Ingham’s one-stop-wellness-philosophy:
Whether you’ve come for the organic eggs or the oms (upstairs boasts a eating well, exercising often and a healthy state of mind are intertwined.
yoga and reformer Pilates studio, as well as a gym space and change “Our therapies are very well measured and the machines and programs
rooms that rival a chic hotel), the space not only welcomes the elements we give people access to, as well as our assessments, are not simple. It’s
inside, courtesy of the ceiling-width skylights, it exudes the type of much more detailed. Be it nutrition, psychology, acupuncture, massage,
community-focused aesthetic that makes it as accessible to a Bondi local we can put all of those things together for you, because they all
as it does an international jetsetter. Think Soho House on a health kick. contribute to the end result,” says Ingham of the underlying philosophy.
“We are catering to the individual and their needs. We’re definitely “That should be you waking up feeling 100 per cent, every day.”
trying to bring a new product into the marketplace,” says Ingham. It’s Go to www.thewellbondi.com.au.
FEBRUARY 2018 89
VOGUE HE A LTH
SCIENCE
Leading
the way
There may still be a gender imbalance
in the science world, but these women
are determined to inspire a new
generation, writes Jody Scott.
PHOTOG R APH D U N CAN KI LLI CK
W
omen have come a long way on
many fronts during the past
century. In the age of innovation,
however, they remain significantly under-
represented in science.
In fact, women account for around 30 per
cent of the world’s researchers, according to
the L’Oréal-UNESCO For Women in Science
Initiative. The joint program, backed by the
L’Oréal Foundation and UNESCO (the United
Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural
Organization), was established 20 years ago
to encourage more young women to enter From left: 2017
science fields, support their careers and Australian L’Oréal-
UNESCO For Women
recognise accomplished female researchers. in Science 2017
Yet much work still needs to be done to fellows Dr Jacyln
Pearson, Dr Deborah
correct the gender imbalance. “There are still
Williamson, Dr
great barriers that discourage women from Stephanie Simonds
entering the profession and obstacles and Dr Jacqui Romero.
continue to block progress for those already
in the field,” declares a L’Oréal-UNESCO
initiative report. “Science is crucial in tackling some of the world’s of female role models. Here, we introduce such role models: four female
most pressing issues and we need every talented mind available, be scientists who were recently awarded L’Oréal-UNESCO For Women in
they men or women.” Science 2017 Australian fellowships.
We also need to instil confidence in girls from an early age to show
them their own potential, according to Australia’s Office of the Chief Dr Jacqui Romero
Scientist, in a paper titled Busting Myths About Women in STEM (science, A quantum physicist and mother of three boys (aged between 20 months
technology, engineering and maths). “Girls and women represent and almost eight), Dr Jacqui Romero fell in love with science at the age
untapped talent,” write the paper’s authors. But girls typically suffer of eight, when her uncle gave her a book of algebra problems. By the
from the impacts of low self-confidence in their STEM abilities. age of 15 she had decided to become a physicist. “We should definitely
“Overall, a mismatch between girls’ STEM abilities and their confidence be encouraging children young, as in toddler young or younger,” she
reduces female representation in STEM.” says, only half-joking. “I have three young children and I am amazed at
Early intervention is key, and we need to dismiss outdated notions how much they figure out in those early years: it really reminds you
that girls are bad at maths or not interested in STEM subjects. We also that we all started out as scientists. It is important for us to encourage
need to overcome lingering perceptions that STEM is a male domain them to ‘keep the wonder’, and also to inculcate the fact that there are
that deters women from careers in science and perpetuates an absence so many things left to explore or problems to solve.”
90
The University of Queensland-based researcher manages to make the that affect millions of people across the globe,” says Monash University
complicated field of quantum physics sound like child’s play as she researcher Dr Stephanie Simonds, whose research investigates the links
explains her experiments with photons or particles of light. “Photons between CVD and obesity. Research led by Simonds recently identified
have many different properties,” Romero says. “I am most interested in that the fat-derived hormone leptin is responsible for acting on the
their shape; think doughnut-shaped or petal-shaped, etc. These different brain to increase blood pressure. “Many scientists, including myself,
shapes can be used to encode information.” Thus she uses photons to have shown that leptin, a hormone produced by fat cells, acts in the
create “higher-dimensional” alphabets to encode and transmit data brain and stimulates the body to burn more energy,” Simonds says.
more securely. “It is really interesting, because it can lead to infallibly “From an evolutionary perspective this sort of makes sense. The
secure communication and more powerful computation,” she says. amount of leptin in the blood is proportional to the amount of body fat
Romero says her L’Oréal-UNESCO fellowship will fund extra carried. So the fatter the individual is, the greater the energy-burning
childcare while she is away at conferences or meetings. “It will make it signal that is sent to the brain … It remains unclear why leptin does
easier for me to say yes to invitations to give talks or collaborate, because this, but we are working on it.”
I will be assured my husband will not be left alone with the kids.” Simonds’s research has also identified that the hormone oestrogen acts
She says juggling motherhood with a full-time career in science is not as a natural protector against the development of CVD in pre-menopausal
easy, but worth it. “To have happy children, we need to have happy obese females. “As we go through menopause, our risk of cardiovascular
parents,” she says. “Doing science makes me happy, so me being disease increases,” she says. “My work indicates that the post-menopausal
a scientist must be good for my kids.” drop in oestrogen levels may contribute to this increased risk … it’s just
one more reason to stay in shape as we get older.”
Dr Deborah Williamson Simonds is adamant that science is no longer a man’s world.
Clinical microbiologist and researcher Dr Deborah Williamson was 10 “Increasing the visibility of women in science – and indeed women in
when her dad bought a microscope. “I recall being amazed at the world other professions – is a positive move that reinforces the belief in young
we couldn’t see with our eyes,” says Williamson, whose women that they can do whatever they want in life. The
mum was a nurse and dad a research scientist. “I really great thing about being a scientist is that you get out what
wanted to learn about how things that were so small
could cause such damage to us.”
“MY you put in. Hard work doesn’t always get you to the top,
but it will get you pretty damn close.”
Fast-forward a few decades and Williamson is tackling DISCOVERY
the threat of antibiotic resistance, one of the biggest HAS NEVER Dr Jacyln Pearson
man-made health threats of the modern age, through
her work at the Doherty Institute, a joint venture
BEEN SHOWN Microbiologist and drummer Dr Jacyln Pearson
temporarily abandoned her research career in the early
between the University of Melbourne and the Royal BEFORE, SO IT 2000s to go on tour with her all-girl rock band Lash.
Melbourne Hospital. WAS VERY Pearson still drums in a band for fun, but she has now
The ability of bacteria to resist the effects of antibiotic
treatments is leaving healthcare professionals with
EXCITING AND made microbiology, specifically microorganisms in the
gastrointestinal tract, her main gig at Monash University’s
limited or no available treatment options. “Antibiotics HAS LED TO Hudson Institute of Medical Research. And her enthusiasm
have made major advances in modern medicine A LOT OF is infectious.
possible,” says Williamson. “Without them we would
return to the pre-antibiotic era, where common
RESEARCH” “There are more bacteria in your gut than there are
stars in the entire universe, and more bacterial genes
infections like skin infections or urinary tract infections in our bodies than our own genes, which draws some
might result in serious disease, even death.” to the conclusion that we are more bacterial than
Williamson’s research into the cause of antibiotic resistance will also human,” Pearson says.
enable her to advise clinicians and the public on safer use of antibiotics While the reason is still unknown, Australia has one of the highest
and antiseptics. “Safe use of antibiotics is not just a medical issue: it is a prevalences of inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) in the world. Pearson
societal issue that may affect all of us, and so as global citizens we must is currently researching how gut microorganisms contribute to IBD,
all act,” she says. “A key part of this is helping the public understand and their role in disease severity.
that antibiotics should only be used when necessary.” Her research thus far has proven some gut pathogens use their own
Williamson says her L’Oréal-UNESCO Fellowship will help fast-track proteins to make chemical changes within parts of our immune system.
her research, enable her to employ a research technician and assist with “My discovery has never been shown before, so it was very exciting and
H A I R : P E T E L E N N O N M A K E- U P: V I C TO R I A B A R O N
childcare costs. “I feel passionate about letting my daughter see that has led to a lot of research on working out which parts of our immune
women can work, raise a family and have time for themselves, too,” she system are most important for controlling serious bacterial gut
says. “Apart from the financial assistance, I hope the profile that comes infections and for keeping our guts healthy and free of inflammatory
from receiving this award will inspire young females to undertake disease,” she says.
a science or medical degree.” Pearson will next investigate how a mutation in some of the genes
in cells that make up our immune system dampen important early
Dr Stephanie Simonds immune responses during bacterial gut infection, making infections far
Cardiovascular disease (CVD) is the leading cause of death in Australia, worse and less likely to clear up. “We are really just at the beginning of
and 70 per cent of cases can be attributed to excess body fat. “It’s very understanding exactly how it (our gut microbiome) affects our immune
gratifying to think that my research could help combat a set of diseases functions and overall health and disease,” she says. ■
FEBRUARY 2018 91
VOGUE HE A LTH
JOURNAL
I walked alone
Temporarily leaving her husband behind
in their home in Kabul, Australian
Danielle Moylan took a solitary hike
of self-discovery through Spain
and the French Pyrenees.
92
A
t the end of the 49th day of my 1,600-kilometre hike, I felt (heartbreaking); an explosive fight with my mother; and watching
glorious. After climbing high into the mountains, hauling my Hilary Clinton’s presidential campaign implode, I felt more on Robyn
13-kilogram backpack through woods and over rivers, I found Davidson’s wavelength: I wanted time out, in nature, by myself.
a hiker’s field of dreams. Barefoot, I pitched my tent on soft green grass For the first two weeks, the pain was excruciating. Blisters swelled
studded with wildflowers and washed away the day’s sweat with cold over blisters. Toenails turned black and at night, the soles of my feet
and clear water in a nearby stream. throbbed. Blue bruises slashed across my shoulders and my calves
I had by then walked alone for more than 1,000 kilometres: from the bubbled with sunburn. My hair turned orange and dirt was everywhere.
southern Spanish city of Seville to the north coast; then east to France to One morning I woke up in my tent, and thought: ‘What the hell is that
tackle the punishing Pyrenees mountains. smell?’, before realising the stink was me.
I rarely saw other hikers; this trail, the GR10, had been a solitary I was also afraid. I hid my tent behind thick bushes and in ditches,
experience. When I did meet others on the daily staggering ascents, and slept next to a can of pepper spray. When asked if I was hiking solo,
a lone German hiker or a Dutch couple, the I put on a brave face, but I slept little,
conversation was always the same: they eyed petrified of being attacked.
my tiny green tent and oversized backpack However, as I learned how to hike, fear
and exclaimed: “You’re hiking … alone?” and pain subsided. I pared back the weight
I knew they asked because I am a woman. I carried, binning spare clothes, deodorant.
And that night, the sunset glowing pink, as I learnt how strap my backpack properly,
I sat in a sarong, eating a baguette and goat’s to lace my shoes with the right tension.
cheese, the question seemed ridiculous. I listened to my body; learning when I was
I often hiked more than 40 kilometres a day. dehydrated and when I needed rest. In
I filtered water from lakes and cooked food return, my body did the miraculous: it
over campfires. I felt confident, strong and adapted. Over time, I walked faster, further
peaceful. Later, swaddled in a sleeping bag, and higher until one day, I looked down
I fell asleep to the gentle rustle of my tent in and saw I now had hiker’s feet, thick with
the warm breeze thinking: ‘This is the best protective callouses, one toenail gone, and
thing I’ve ever done.’ athlete’s legs, muscular and golden.
Four hours later, I shrieked as a boom The wilderness stretched out before me,
of wind collapsed my tent, reducing it to expansive and mysterious. I started every
a tangle of nylon sheets. Thunder cracked Danielle Moylan day not knowing if there would be towering
overhead, and with it, so did my confidence. trees or thick mist; whether I’d encounter
All the worst memories of the hike flooded in.
“THE WILDERNESS STRETCHED deer, snakes, pigs – or humans. I eventually
OUT BEFORE ME, EXPANSIVE

I thought of the time I nearly tumbled over realised if there was an unlikely predator out
a cliff. The time I’d plunged waist-deep into there, they would have to stalk me for
snow. Went without food for 24 hours, and AND MYSTERIOUS” kilometres up mountain terrain. But mostly,
the many, many times I got lost. ‘I am lonely after being gifted muesli bars by cyclists,
and cold and exhausted,’ I thought, sobbing. cheese from shepherds and offered places to
The next morning, I lit a fire and boiled water for coffee as the sun shower, I believed the world a good place. As a woman, I could hike alone.
rose, transforming the pink sky to golden to brightest blue. With no-one In fact, women are great at hiking. In 2011, 28-year-old Jennifer Pharr
to rescue me, no hotel to check in to, no way of bailing out, I did what Davis beat the men’s American Appalachian Trail speed record, hiking
I had done every morning for the past 50 days: I stood up, strapped on 3,500 kilometres in 46 days. Another woman, Heather Anderson, is the
my backpack, and continued hiking. only person of any gender to simultaneously hold speed records for the
The decision to walk by myself for 10 weeks, carrying everything Appalachian and Pacific Crest trails. Over long distances, grit and
I needed on my back, was not an obvious holiday choice. I like ordinary willpower is as important as physical strength.
comforts: my husband, drinks with friends, hot showers, firm mattresses. I found my own strength, but I also found simplicity. Hiking 10 hours
I definitely didn’t like sleeping in tents, or insects. And I had barely a day, I unplugged from social media and office gossip. I wore the
hiked before. I exercised most days, but for vanity, not fitness. clothes I had and ate the food I carried. I listened to birds and
Still, I felt drawn to hike. I had devoured the book (and movie) Wild, the metronomic crunch of my feet. I marvelled at the small things, like
where Cheryl Strayed beautifully details her redemptive solo one blue wildflower growing from a rock, and wild horses sleeping in
1,700-kilometre hike; and been moved by the spirit of Robyn Davidson, the sun, indifferent to my presence. At night I looked at the stars or
I N S TA G R A M . CO M / DA N I E L L E J M OY L A N
who walked 2,700 kilometres across Australian desert in 1977. I also read, finishing 18 books in 10 weeks, with no day feeling wasted.
discovered my last month would tread the same paths where the feminist But I also I cried. A lot. I felt the full force of the wild, hiking in days
philosopher Simone de Beauvoir in 1931 began her love affair with solo of rain, blasted in icy wind and falling over in mud. During these times,
hiking. In old dresses and espadrilles, de Beauvoir found independence solitude slipped into loneliness, and I missed my husband ferociously.
‘clambering over rocks and mountains or sliding down screes’, she wrote. But I do know that I’m glad I did it. Now I am back in a world where
For many, hiking is salvation. Cheryl Strayed hiked to kick a heroin being plugged in seems necessary, I think back to the miseries and joys
habit; de Beauvoir to break her dependence on her lover. But for me, I experienced and know, as de Beauvoir wrote: ‘Such moments, with all
although it had been a pretty average year: three failed IVF attempts their warmth, tenderness, and fury, belong to me and no-one else.’ ■
FEBRUARY 2018 93
VOGUE HE A LTH
C U LT U R E
A creative approach
The arts can play a powerful role in healing people with
mental health issues, including anxiety. By Jane Albert.
D
anielle Caruana refers to it as her ‘lightbulb moment’. your mother.’ And I raced out of the room. I realised that was the
Outwardly, the attractive 30-something appeared to have a internal narrative that was creating a lot of the unwellness and
blessed life. Married to popular blues and roots singer John frustration in me, and I made a simple pact I was going to start doing
Butler, mother to two healthy young children and an idyllic home in something. And it wasn’t going to look like what John was doing and
Perth’s portside suburb of Fremantle. Why, then, was she feeling so I wasn’t going to tour as much as John was touring.”
desperately anxious and so deeply unhappy? Adopting the stage moniker Mama Kin, Caruana began singing
The youngest of six children, Caruana was born into a musical Maltese publicly, performing songs that exposed her most vulnerable self. She
immigrant family in the western suburbs of Melbourne. An inherently was astonished by the audience feedback. “The response was immediate
talented singer-songwriter herself, Caruana kept her gifts hidden, instead and I was overwhelmed by it all. [My music was] about expressing my
supporting her older brother Nicky Bomba as he developed his singing journey of being so broken, songs I never thought I would perform, but
career by managing his record label, then joining the management team the songs I thought were the most private were the ones people would
for Butler, an increasingly successful touring artist whom she married in say: ‘I felt like you were writing that from the corner of my most secret
1999. She continued to harbour a burning need to perform herself, but self.’ I realised how shared our experiences of isolation are.”
with no female role models she simply pushed the feelings aside. It was the knowledge of people’s need to share and the powerful role
Then it happened. “It wasn’t until the birth of my second child [Jahli, art can play in both healing and bringing people together that led to
now 11]. I was struggling with the touring schedule of my husband and Professor Jill Bennett running The Big Anxiety festival in Sydney late
how isolated I felt as a parent and where my own creative expression last year. The founding professor of the National Institute of
lived within all that. I was having a conversation with my daughter Experimental Arts at the University of New South Wales, Bennett has
Banjo, who asked why I didn’t share my songs the way Dad did. My grown up with experiences of mental health issues and was convinced
reaction was internally so violent, and I said: ‘Because I’m so busy being there was a gap that an arts, science and mental health festival could fill.
94
If she needed convincing, it came on a freezing winter’s night in 2016. the end of her experiences with anxiety and depression, two ongoing
Bennett and UNSW were hosting a Vivid Ideas event at Sydney’s Museum conditions she has had to learn to manage through a strict regimen of
of Contemporary Art as a precursor to The Big Anxiety, exploring the role transcendental meditation, regular counselling and a healthy lifestyle.
creativity and art might play in helping alleviate anxiety. Recently she learnt about a powerful hormone, oxytocin, which is
“It was a sell-out, but it was in the middle of a massive storm, so we naturally stimulated by communal singing.
thought no-one was going to come. Yet the room was full,” she recalls. “To stand in a gig with hundreds of bodies up against each other
Participants were asked to anonymously respond, using mobile devices, and to experience waves of sound – that’s spiritual!” she enthuses.
to a series of questions about their experiences with anxiety and Collaborating with friend Tommy Spender, Mama Kin Spender is a
depression. “There were massive responses on anxiety and fairly big new project that sees the pair travel into communities and perform
responses to depression. And the audience was a super-cool, young with a local choir. “I wanted things to be deeper than the touring
Vivid crowd. That was the thing that tipped me, because we realised schedule, where you’re just on stage for 20 minutes. I needed the effect
there was a huge interest, and it’s really timely.” for me and that town to be deeper.” The results speak for themselves.
The statistics are sobering. According to Lifeline, suicide remains the “We get these letters, expressions of connection, or of having felt
leading cause of death in Australians aged 15 to 44, while Beyond Blue disconnected, but now feeling so connected,” she says. “The effect is
says more than two million people suffer anxiety in any given year. Yet instant and joyous.”
the vast majority don’t seek help. “Every one of those deaths is In the past six months there has been heightened recognition of the
theoretically preventable in the way cancer isn’t, so that suggests we dual-edged sword that is being creative – the tendency artists have
don’t take care of mental health, and that’s a driver for change. The one towards mental health issues given the
thing it does tell us is that we need richer communication and richer nature of their work, with irregular
engagement,” Bennett says. “Life has hours, performance anxiety, unreliable
Enter The Big Anxiety. The event comprised more than 75 events never been income and the vulnerability of
across the city featuring international and Australian artists, scientists displaying for public scrutiny your
and people with lived experience of mental health issues in a varied, so frenetic … deepest self – while acknowledging the
interactive, entertaining and provocative seven-week festival where and that’s powerful role art plays in creating a
people can share their experiences, learn about others’ and get a sense why we’re more empathetic, balanced society. In
of the healing power of art. November, actor Deborah Mailman
The free program ranged from panel discussions with visual artists coming fronted the Performing Arts Wellbeing
Patricia Piccinini and Brenda Croft, performer Shaun Parker and actor back to Summit at the Sydney Opera House,
David Woods to a converted ambulance with interactive artworks valuing more exploring the specific mental health
controlled by participants’ stress, breathing and heart rates; Awkward needs of performance artists; actors
Conversations with participants that included an artist with dwarfism
meditative Claudia Karvan and Gareth Davies
and a young man who has made repeated suicide attempts, answering activities and and musician Tim Rogers hosted a
any and every question put to them; and a video installation that places ways of being panel on performance anxiety in
viewers inside the experience of stage fright. Sydney that same month; while
The response was overwhelmingly positive, with more than 140,000
creative” Bridging Hope, a charity foundation
attendees, many of them under 25, while broad local and international that seeks to bridge the arts and mental
media coverage resulted in interest in taking the festival abroad. “There health for improved wellbeing, is now a major supporter of the 2018
is general interest in health and wellbeing and how that can be achieved Biennale of Sydney.
using technology and the arts,” says Bennett, who hopes the local Governments and the corporate world are also exploring the role art
festival will be biennial. can play in a healthier workforce. The Big Anxiety festival was funded by
Driving the festival was evidence of the impact art and creativity can the Australian government, the Black Dog Institute, the Mental Health
have on alleviating and even helping prevent mental health issues and Commission of New South Wales and the Neilson Foundation, among
improving health and wellbeing, where art isn’t confined to paintings others, while accounting giant KPMG recently hosted a lunch for high-
© P O L LO C K- K R A S N E R F O U N DAT I O N /A R S . L I C E N S E D BY V I S CO P Y.
on a gallery wall. While Vincent van Gogh and Edvard Munch represent net-worth individuals with the theme ‘Art for health’s sake – the role of
the stereotypical and oft-maligned ‘mad artist’, there is no denying art and culture in developing wellbeing’ as part of the company’s ongoing
A RT W O R K : B LU E P O L E S ( 1 9 5 2 ) BY J A C K S O N P O L LO C K
artists have the ability to express deep-seated mental distress and pain, focus on mental health.
often in subtle ways. “Part of what I wanted to do was value the rich “There is a general interest in health and wellbeing and how that can
benefit of creativity. Artists do generate insights and can share that with be achieved using technology and the arts,” says Bennett. “Life has
the broader community,” she says, pointing out that leading never been so frenetic, and the whole thing about multi-tasking,
organisations such as Apple and Google now put a premium on checking your social media feed while you’re doing other things …
‘creativity’. “They appoint creatives or people with an art background, there’s constant time-splitting. And that’s why we’re coming back to
because we do value that spark of creativity and different ways of valuing more meditative activities and ways of being creative and
working, but we’re only at the start of the journey when it comes to learning about ourselves. It’s about taking care of ourselves and slowing
[how that can benefit] health.” down. And that’s what art does.”
Caruana knows well the healing power of art. Unfortunately, the * If you or someone you know is in need of crisis or suicide prevention support,
ARIA-nominated artist’s discovery of the balm of performing wasn’t please contact Lifeline: www.lifeline.org.au/gethelp.
FEBRUARY 2018 95
VOGUE HE A LTH
FITNESS
Running
up that hill
Running pioneer Kathrine Switzer was the first woman to
complete a marathon, despite being told women weren’t
capable of competing. Fifty years later she is still a force
of empowerment. By Sophie Tedmanson.
W
hen Kathrine Switzer set out to run her first marathon she
didn’t mean to start a running revolution, she simply
wanted to prove the boys wrong.
Switzer was a 20-year-old journalism student in 1967 and the first
woman to join her university track and field running team. During
training, her coach would entertain her with tales of running the Boston
Marathon – one of the world’s most famous and prestigious long-
distance races in the world. Back then, women were considered
physically incapable of running 42 kilometres and were therefore not
eligible to enter the marathon. Switzer was determined to change that.
It was snowing in April 1967 when Switzer lined up with her coach and
then-boyfriend to start the Boston Marathon. While women were
technically not allowed to enter, she had entered under her initials K V
Switzer, but did not try to hide the fact she was a woman: she wore
lipstick and earrings. The marathon began well, but about five kilometres
in, race manager Jock Semple famously leapt off a media bus monitoring
the runners and lunged at Switzer, trying to rip the bib – number 261 – off Kathrine Switzer running in
her chest and push her off the course. The images of Semple attacking the the Boston Marathon in 1967
and being accosted by Jock
lone woman on the course went global, exposing the ugly sexism in sport Semple, who objected to a
and turning Switzer into an equality icon for female athletes. woman competing in the race.
Switzer later recalled the incident in her memoir, Marathon Woman:
“A big man, a huge man with bared teeth, was set to pounce, and before only changed her life but also changed the course of history for women
I could react he grabbed my shoulder and flung me back, screaming: running long distance. Semple later publicly reconciled with Switzer.
‘Get the hell out of my race and give me those numbers!’” Switzer says standing up for her rights as a woman was primarily
Switzer still vividly remembers that moment five decades ago. what kept her going: “When you have an adrenaline rush like that you
“I remember it very clearly,” she tells Vogue. “I remember how scared lose your energy and we went into a deep trough for about six miles, but
and terrified I was. I remember because he came out of the blue it was then we climbed out of it. That’s one of the things that really impresses
a combination of feeling scared but also feeling deeply embarrassed. me about human physiology – that you can do that.
It was in front of so many people … you feel like an idiot. You’re both “I mean, honestly, I wanted to step off the course and go home to my
burning-hot mad and humiliated, and you are disappointed and don’t mum and go to sleep. I wanted it all to go away. But I couldn’t, I had to
quite know what to do. So all of those things hit me at once. But also finish the race. Because I knew if I didn’t then nobody would believe
I was very scared because he was out of control and cursing at me and women could do it, and it would really set us back.”
pushing me. The race made her an instant celebrity, something Switzer harnessed
“I was also worried that I had stepped into a really important sports to benefit female sportswomen worldwide: she campaigned for women
event and done something wrong. It’s like being in a bad dream, that to be allowed to officially enter the Boston Marathon (which was
you’ve done something wrong. But then, of course, my boyfriend hit approved in 1972), created the Avon International Running Circuit
[Semple] and that’s when I got really scared, because I thought he had women-only events in the late 70s, and thanks largely to her influence,
seriously hurt him. Then my coach said: ‘Run like hell’, so down the in 1984 women were finally allowed to run the marathon in the
street we went.” Olympics for the first time. Personally she has since run scores of
Despite the emotion and adrenaline of the situation, Switzer marathons, including the New York Marathon in 1974, which she won,
channelled her anger into her legs and made it to the finish line an and last April, to celebrate 50 years of the iconic moment in these
impressive four hours and 20 minutes later, by which time she had not images, Switzer returned to Boston to run the marathon again – at the
96
age of 70 – and followed that up by running the New York Marathon six builder. We are finding that there’s a great passion in us getting together
months later, also run by model Karlie Kloss. and having fun in a big city and running a big race and not being
During both marathons last year Switzer was surrounded by groups competitive necessarily, but willing to put ourselves on the line in terms
of women who have joined her not-for-profit charity 261 Fearless of physical fitness – it’s an effort; marathons are hard!
(named after her original Boston bib number). The organisation, says “It’s also fearless for women helping a woman who is fearful about
Switzer, is a global running community encouraging women to be taking the next step. You can tell a person to get their sneakers and go
empowered and support each other through running. for a run and they won’t do it by themselves, but if they have
She describes it as a “social revolution” that has scores a buddy with them for a while then they will,” she says. “It’s
of members and clubs worldwide and the support of “THERE’S so hard in so many countries to convince women that
an international sponsorship with Adidas, and continues A GREAT it’s okay to go out and do this. They are still under the
to grow. Prior to Christmas she hosted a training camp
in New Zealand (where she lives half the year when not
PASSION IN impression it’s not the right thing to do, that it’s not
appropriate, that it’s conspicuous, that it’s not what a
US GETTING
I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F T H E B O S TO N H E R A L D
in her native New York) and there are plans to expand woman does. But once they get with a group they are having
261 Fearless to Australia this year. TOGETHER” fun and that’s one reason why 261 Fearless is really terrific,
“We’re creating a community of women that are non- because it’s actually a lot of fun.”
judgmental and doing it safely, so they will run all their Switzer says despite her age she still enjoys running
lives and so that they know that they can communicate with their marathons and has many more on her bucket list, starting with London.
sisters all around the world,” she says. “So it’s really not just about “There are more on my bucket list, but I’ve been too busy. So I got
running on a Saturday morning and grabbing coffee, although thinking: ‘Well, if are you going to do them, you’d better get going.’”
sometimes that’s what we do. The nice thing about marathons for those Vogue’s Sophie Tedmanson will run the 2018 Boston Marathon in April with
who can run them is they are a really great, awesome, community 261 Fearless. For more information, go to www.261fearless.org.
FEBRUARY 2018 97
Iris van Herpen, Amsterdam (fashion house); Iris van Herpen (designer)
Dress 2011 (detail) National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne
Purchased with funds donated by Norma and Stuart Leslie, 2016 © Iris van Herpen
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DRESS CODE:
ECLECTIC
GLAMOUR
WITH AN
OVERLOAD OF
SPORTY LUXE.
ALL YOU NEED
IS ENERGY.
S K AT E B OA R D
P I L AT E S
Gucci jacket, $1,540. Giorgio
Armani dress, $3,600. W. Britt
necklace, $1,005. Aquilano
Rimondi belt, $170. Gucci
watch, $1,750. No. 21 socks,
$144. Valentino shoes, $1,540.
Skateboard from Skater HQ.
Dylan Donnini and Jackson
Donnini (sitting) wear their own
clothes. All prices approximate;
details at Vogue.com.au/WTB.
104
BODY
TALK
From bicep curls with Fendi to Chanel chin-ups, here is the fashionable way to get
the ultimate beach body. Styled by Kate Darvill. Photographed by Benny Horne.
FEBRUARY 2018 105

THE
HANDBAG
CURL
Calvin Klein bodysuit,
$130. Mugler pants, $2,410,
and belt, P.O.A. Oakley
sunglasses, $210. Fendi bag,
BENNY HORNE
$2,590. From left: Michael

Harding, Charles Grant and
Brendan McDonnell wear
their own clothes.
COA STA L B OX I N G
Valentino dress, $5,480. Koral sports bra, $129. Gucci shorts, $660. H&M earrings, $15.
BENNY HORNE
Miu Miu waist bag, $2,060. Christian Dior boots, $1,850. Zach Vickers wears his own clothes.
BEACH YOGA
Wynn Hamlyn bodice, $370. Burberry jumper, $425. Nike shorts, $40, from Mode Sportif. Georg Jensen necklace, $3,600, and ring, $550.
Valentino socks, $200. Moncler shoes, $1,005. Angela Mitchell (left) wears her own clothes. Alanna Chan wears Lululemon pants. Her own top.
ON THE ROPES
Christian Dior jumpsuit, $6,400. Fendi crop top, $360, from www.matchesfashion.com. Koral top, $99. Miu Miu visor, $360, and belt, $770. Stella McCartney sneakers, $800.
BENNY HORNE
From left: Dylan Rivier and Michael Harding wear their own shorts.
DRINK YOUR GREENS
Fendi jacket, $4,270. Hermès bodysuit, $630, and pants, $1,450. Acne hat, $170. Reliquia earrings, $159. Dinosaur Designs bracelet, $300.
Beauty note: Payot Sun Sensi SPF 50+ Face Cream.
BENNY HORNE
J U ST A D D WAT E R
Prada jacket, $2,520. Koral
swimsuit, $169. Valet earrings,
$149. Hermès bracelets, from $685
each. Apple iPhone 8, from $1,079.
BALL STRETCHES
Miu Miu jumpsuit, $2,330, and sunglasses, $560. Reliquia necklace, $210. Armani Exchange watch, $299.
BENNY HORNE
STREET SIDE CHIN-UPS
Chanel jacket, $4,550, pants, $3,100, and watch, $7,060, from the Chanel boutiques. Elizabeth and James earrings, P.O.A. Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses,
$320. Georg Jensen necklace, $1,150. Louise Olsen bracelet, $525. Aquazzura shoes, $1,045. From left: Michael Harding, Dylan Rivier and Brendan
McDonnell wear their own clothes.
WAV E R I D E R
Mugler dress, $3,770.
The Upside leggings, $119.
Lazer Wasp Air helmet, from
Bikesportz Imports. Adidas by
Stella McCartney waist bag, $80,
from www.mychameleon.com.au.
Yioryio bracelets, P.O.A.
3.1 Phillip Lim shoes, P.O.A.
Hair: Alan White
Make-up: Kellie Stratton
Model: Hana Jirickova
BENNY HORNE
DECODING
DAKOTA
The new darling of Netflix, Dakota Fanning has dodged the pitfalls of child
acting, choosing challenging roles and landing squarely on her feet.
By Noelle Faulkner. Styled by Natasha Royt. Photographed by Emma Summerton.
Dakota Fanning wears an Alexander McQueen dress, P.O.A. Tiffany & Co. bracelet, $24,500. Off-White c/o Jimmy
Choo shoes, $3,220. Vintage art deco carpet, from Doris Leslie Blau Antique and Custom Carpets. Mid-century
glassware, from The End of History, New York. All prices approximate. Details at Vogue.com.au/WTB.
118
FEBRUARY 2018 119
Burberry jacket, P.O.A.
Chanel top, P.O.A., from
the Chanel boutiques.
Coach top, $450. Bulgari
necklace, $5,750. Tiffany
& Co. bracelet, $24,500.
Beauty note: Marc Jacobs
Beauty Eye-Conic
Multi-Finish Eyeshadow
Palette in Glambition.
CREDIT
120
P
erhaps it’s just clickbait, but it seems the more you look around, the more
you become attuned to actors going method, being overtaken by their
roles, getting lost in whatever emotional weight their character carries
and their pains. We applaud the actors who go too far, I’m not saying
they’re undeserving, but there’s something to be said for those who can
take on the complexities of trying roles with a Teflon-like attitude. From
age six, Dakota Fanning has been the latter. Whether she’s falling in love,
being sexually abused on screen, committing a crime or dealing with death or mental
illness, she’ll perform as if she’s lived it, but shrugs it away to the same tune: “It’s pretend.”
It begs the question: is Dakota Fanning the most level-headed actress in Hollywood?
It’s just leading up to Christmas when we speak. Having escaped New York for the
holidays, she is holed up in her parents’ Los Angeles home. As happens to busy people
this time of year, Fanning has come down with a flu that reared its head as soon as she
stopped. A sickness, she says she’s been fighting off all year due to pressing schedules,
international travel and work. Having spent a good chunk of her last year in Budapest
filming her first television series, The Alienist (now screening on Netflix), Fanning is
enjoying a moment of down time. This year will see her star in Australian director Ben
Lewin’s film Please Stand By (Australian release to be
confirmed), make a small appearance in the all-female
Ocean’s Eight, and continue her work to get an adaption “I’m such a
of Sylvia Plath’s The Bell Jar off the ground. planner, I like
However, you could say that The Alienist is Fanning’s
biggest project to date. The ambitious adaption of the
a routine … I’m
Caleb Carr novel of the same name saw the 23-year-old in completely
dive headfirst into a project with a crew of strangers, in the wrong
a foreign country, no less. “I was really scared before profession
I went,” she admits. “Six months is a big chunk of your
life. I didn’t know, nor had I ever met, anyone I was for that
working with, and while I’d been to Budapest before, personality
I didn’t know the city that well.” She lights up, her type”
voice sparkling: “But it was one of the most pleasant
surprises of my life. I was so comfortable; I learned to
unwind and really enjoyed my life there. I sobbed hysterically when I had to leave!” She
laughs. “I was trying to explain it to my mum, who wasn’t able to visit, but she just didn’t
get it. She was like: ‘Well, glad you liked it.’” She laughs again.
A crime drama set in the late 1800s, surrounding a series of young male killings, The
Alienist sees Fanning take on the strong but delicate role of Sara, a glass ceiling-smashing
secretary-cum-detective, and stars alongside Daniel Brühl and Luke Evans. The project
is co-produced by a stellar team, including director Jakob Verbruggen (Black Mirror, The
Fall, House of Cards), Cary Fukunaga (True Detective, Jane Eyre), Oscar winner Eric Roth
(Forrest Gump, The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, House of Cards) and nominee Hossein
Amini (Drive, Two Faces of January), so Fanning is in primo producing hands.
“Television has become an amazing place; I feel like I’m watching more TV than I am
movies at the moment,” she says. “So it was something I was completely open to, I just
hadn’t found the right project. I was not familiar with the book, but the more I mentioned
it, people would say like: ‘Oh my God, the book is so good!’ When I read these scripts and
the character, it just started to feel right.” She adds: “I’m such a planner. I like a routine,
I like a schedule, and I’m in completely the wrong profession for that personality type,” she
says, laughing. “So much is out of your control and changes on a whim. So it brought me
some peace, in a way, knowing this is what I’m going to do for the next six months.”
Fanning joins the extensive list of major actors making the switch from film to TV
lately. No longer the B-grade medium of the industry, there is actually more to it than →
FEBRUARY 2018 121

Prada dress, $3,650.
122
Louis Vuitton jacket, top
and shorts, all P.O.A. On
right hand: Tiffany & Co.
ring, $8,700. On left hand:
Bulgari rings, $15,400
and $4,410. Off-White c/o
Jimmy Choo shoes, $3,220.
Christopher Kane jacket,

$6,525. Saint Laurent
shorts, $3,310. On right
hand: The Shiny Squirrel
ring, $120. On left hand:
Bulgari rings, $15,400
and $4,410. The Shiny
CREDIT
Squirrel ring, $120. Jimmy

Choo shoes, P.O.A.
124
a hefty pay packet: accessibility, a distribution politics bypass. As an campaign at 17, which was criticised for sexualising a minor, she paid
actor, the idea that your character can unfold week by week, reveal no notice. “There are much more important things to talk about than
a piece of itself to as many screens as possible around the globe, is what I’m wearing or not wearing,” she says. “It’s a waste of energy. I’d
tempting. Working with a budget and talent that ensures a feature-film- done things with Marc Jacobs before and [photographer] Juergen Teller
quality patina? The cherry on top. “There is something so exciting about is a friend of mine and when somebody tried to pollute that, I was just
TV,” she nods. “The way things are now, certain films will only screen in like: ‘You’re not going to take this away from me. This is so cool. It’s
certain theatres and countries, and people might not even know they girlie and pretty and I can wear that I want. If you’re being creepy, then
exist. So it’s something really cool for me to know that this show is going you have the problem.’”
to be available every day and reach more people in their own homes. ” One of the few actors her age who has managed fame and privacy for
From the young daughter of a mental-illness sufferer to an overtly as long as she has, Fanning didn’t jump on to social media right away,
sexualised teen, a jailbait rock star, leukaemia patient, victim of sexual worried she’d reveal too much, make mistakes or disappoint her future
assault, environmental protestor, child bride, criminal on the lam, mute self. “I remember sitting in a class in high school looking at our phones
fearing for her life, unwashed political activist hiding in the underground, and Instagram had just come out,” she says. “My friend was like: ‘You’ve
escaped clone, young autistic, and the hunted prey of an Arctic monster … got to get on Instagram.’ I never had a Facebook or Twitter or anything,
create a shortlist of Fanning’s most interesting roles (she’s appeared in because I was always afraid. What was I going to put up? I didn’t want
more than 45 films) and you’ll see that she’s certainly done a lot of running, other people to see my stuff. It’s changed now, but I feel I got to go
but also chooses characters with layers of complexity. From the age of six, through some of those true teenage
Fanning has been picking up these tough characters and experiencing life years before things entered the
through them vicariously – how has it not made her go insane? “[There’s] craziness level they are at now. Even
a boundary, and I’ve always said or thought this in the back of my mind:
“I want to though they were kind of crazy then,
maybe it’s because I started when I was younger, but it’s all make-believe,” direct more I feel like things have just taken such
she says. “It’s like: ‘Oh, I’m going to go pretend to do this.’ As I’ve gotten and personally, a bigger turn.”
older, the boundaries have always been clear and that’s stayed with me. So And then there’s dating, which
I still am just like: ‘Oh, I pretended that happened to me.’” She pauses. “It’s
I can’t wait to Fanning despises – preferring to
also important to remember that just because you acted something doesn’t be a mum. I either be all in or all out. The former is
make you actually know what it’s like.” can’t wait to where she’s currently at, or rather,
Fanning adds that making a point of under-thinking things helps her “happily not single”, but not dating
to keep her mental health in check; the opposite, she says, leads to
get married. “a public person”. “I’ve always sort of
insecurity and a tendency to get overwhelmed. “This is not just Not yet, but dated somebody a little bit removed,”
particular to being an actor or being in the entertainment industry,” she those things she says, her most notable relationship
says. “You can make yourself insane thinking about all the possible in recent years with model Jamie
outcomes of the what-ifs, the should-ofs … It’s just like an endless,
are very Strachan, 13 years her senior. “I see
endless hole, and I just … can’t. So all those parts, I never really thought important to the whirlwind of [famous] people
about them as that. There was just something about the project or about me and I think dating [famous] people and it just
the character that I was like: ‘Oh, that’s cool’ or: ‘Oh, I want to do that. about them” looks so intense,” she says.
I want to be the one who gets to say that!’” How exactly does one navigate
She’s been a working actor since kindergarten (just like her younger dating when your entire childhood,
sister, Elle), so one has to ask how has she navigated the rocky path adolescence, early adulthood and literally everything you’ve ever said
of cliches that many child actors trip over. “I still don’t know how to in public is accessible? Especially for a self-confessed over-thinker?
answer this,” she says. “I think because I’ve always maintained that Fanning breaks into a sweet laugh. “Hey, I’ve done it! I swear, when it
I never felt that I was entitled to anything because I did movies. I guess comes to Instagram, my stalking abilities are unparalleled. I can find out
that comes from my mum. It took her years and years to admit that we anything, I really can. I have a private account for my stalking.” She cracks
lived in Los Angeles. When people were like: ‘Oh, where do you live?’, up again. “But it would weird me out if someone started talking about
her answer was always: ‘We’re from Georgia, we live in Georgia, we’re all that stuff. It’s like: ‘Okay, look it up for your own personal knowledge
just out here doing this for some film Dakota is doing for a little while.’ bank, just don’t tell me you have!’” Celebrities, they’re just like us.
There was no: ‘We’re moving to Hollywood so Dakota can be an It’s hard to believe that someone so young and so accomplished still
actress!’” Which arguably says more about Fanning and her family’s carries the hunger for her craft, but you get the feeling Fanning is turning
down-to-earth way of raising spotlit children more than anything else. a corner right now, and landing exactly where she’s meant to be. “I want to
“I just never wanted to make too big of a mistake that jeopardised what feel settled personally and professionally,” she shrugs. “I feel most settled
I love doing,” she adds thoughtfully. “There can be other reasons that it when I’m consistently working. I want to direct more and, personally,
goes away – nothing is ever guaranteed. But, I never wanted it to be I can’t wait to be a mum. I can’t wait to get married. Not yet, but those
taken away from me because I had made a really bad decision, you things are very important to me and I think about them.”
know? And I’m also really scared of my mum and didn’t want to get in Fanning will turn 24 on February 23, marking what she refers to as her
trouble or disappoint anybody.” What a woman Mrs Fanning must be. “make-believe age”: the number that’s always been her age when playing
The actress also maintains that she never experienced any of the dark dress-ups. “When we would play around the house when I was younger,
clouds that have been hovering over Hollywood, insisting she was we would all pretend to be 24,” she reveals, laughing warmly. “It didn’t
never sexualised as a young star, or at least if it happened in the media, sound too young, and it didn’t sound too old, and so I’m finally getting
wasn’t privy to it. Even when she fronted a controversial Marc Jacobs to be 24, which is weird. It’s always the age I’ve pretended to be.” ■
126
Rodarte cape and jumpsuit,

both P.O.A. On right arm:
Tiffany & Co. bracelet,
$9,900. On left arm: Cartier
bracelet, P.O.A. Bulgari
rings, $15,400 and $4,410.
Gucci shoes, $1,110.
Hair: Serge Normant
Make-up: Jeanine Lobell
CREDIT
Manicure: Yuko Tsuchihashi

Set design: Viki Rutsch
FEBRUARY 2018 127

SACHIN & BABI
ELIE SAAB
NINA RICCI
LOEWE
CÉLINE
EDUN
ON THE
FRINGE
CALVIN KLEIN
Cascading down
BALMAIN
neck ines, adding

necklines,
drama to skirts, the
elongated fringe is
an updated take on
a 1920s vibe. This is
made for your next
grand entrance.
128
S M O OT H TA L K E R
Think luxury but with comfort
levels in check. Supple silks
snaked down the runway in
an array of colours, from
dusty blush to daffodil yellow.
RALPH & RUSSO

VIONNET
PACO RABANNE
LEMAIRE
FIRST
LOOK
SONIA RYKIEL
COACH
Colour, shine and frivolity mingled

on the runway for spring/summer ’18.
I N D I G I TA L
By Alice Birrell and Zara Wong.
FEBRUARY 2018 129

SELF-PORTRAIT
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
BALMAIN
A.W.A.K.E.
CAROLINA HERRERA
JUNYA WATANABE
DOT DOT DOT

Balancing the line between
grand society dame and
VALENTINO
MARY KATRANTZOU
playfully whimsical, the

polka dot is the print to
anchor you in the season.
130
GLISTEN
AND GLOW
Sparkle and shine in
crystal, Glomesh and
sequins, all of which
call to mind fashion’s
favourite reference:
Studio 54. Lengths are
exaggerated, so pick
either ankle-grazing or
GUCCI
thigh-skimming and skip
the rest in between.
ALTUZARRA
TEMPERLEY LONDON
KENZO
TOM FORD
CHRISTIAN DIOR
JULIEN MACDONALD
PACO RABANNE
DOLCE & GABBANA
I N D I G I TA L
FEBRUARY 2018 131

FAUSTO PUGLISI
SIMONETTA RAVIZZA
MARC JACOBS
KRIZIA
CHRISTOPHER KANE
BALENCIAGA
DRIES VAN NOTEN
ROCHAS
ALEXANDER McQUEEN
WALLFLOWERS
Where did florals get to this season?
They’ve flattened themselves to resemble
David Hicks-like wallpapers and elaborate
furnishing of the past, then are splashed
across skirts and dresses. The litmus test
this time around is whether they’d fit in
on the pages of Architectural Digest.
132
EMPORIO ARMANI
VERONIQUE LEROY
LOUIS VUITTON
Y/PROJECT
ALBERTA FERRETTI
VERSACE
NINA RICCI
CÉLINE
MIU MIU
MISSONI
SHERBET BOMB
The palette cleanser to retreat to comes as
a sweetener in sugar shades. Dip into pale
violet, Tiffany blue and peony, all twilight hues
I N D I G I TA L
that borrow from an 80s make-up palette.
FEBRUARY 2018 13 3
FENDI
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
CALVIN KLEIN
CHRISTIAN DIOR
VERSUS
TIBI
INDIGO VISION
After the nostalgia of seasons past
TOM FORD
we’ve entered into new denim

territory – that of the brand-spanking
new. Deep indigo in sharp shapes
resonates with the designers’ message:
denim has reached elevated status.
134
THE PLASTICS
When something feels
BALENCIAGA
taboo, it ups its appeal.
Enter plastic-look dresses,
wet-look raincoats and
rubberised separates that
play to an artificial and
fetishistic mood.
PTION RRUNWAY
CAPTION
CAP UNWAY
MARY KATRANTZOU
CHRISTOPHER KANE
BURBERRY
CALVIN KLEIN
BALMAIN
ASSEMBLY
TOGA
CHANEL
I N D I G I TA L
FEBRUARY 2018 135

136
LIFE
AQUATIC
A blazing summer sun, glare-bright prints,
electric colour, sporty silhouettes.
Dive in headfirst. Styled by Venetia Scott.
Photographed by Inez and Vinoodh.
Tomas Maier jacket,

$1,820, and swimsuit,
$425. General Eyewear
sunglasses, $435. Pascale
Monvoisin necklace, worn
throughout, $1,390.
H. Samuel necklace, worn
throughout, $75. Beyond
Retro belt, $40. Victorinox
watch, $955. All prices
approximate; details at
Vogue.com.au/WTB.
FEBRUARY 2018 137

MSGM coat, $1,530.
Stella McCartney
swimsuit, $335.
Beauty note:
Label.m Shine Spray.
Michael Kors Collection
shirt, $1,530, and shorts,
$1,020. Links of London
INEZ AND VINOODH
necklace, $75. Courreges

visor, courtesy of Albright
Fashion Library. Palm
Angels belt, $220. Louis
Vuitton watch, $5,010.
Sonia Rykiel sweater,
$1,320. Hublot
watch, $42,395.
Laura Urbinati swimsuit,
P.O.A. Village Hats cap,
$20. Corum watch,
$13,685. Adidas
sneakers, $290.
INEZ AND VINOODH
Cynthia Rowley wetsuit,
$405. Versace sunglasses,
$399. Victorinox watch,
$955. Stella McCartney
sneakers, $865.
Red Valentino bra top, $240,
and shorts, $279. Stella
McCartney sunglasses, $480.
Hair: Ward Stegerhoek
Make-up: Sil Bruinsma
Production: VLM Productions/Queen
of Spade Production Services
Model: Rianne van Rompaey
INEZ AND VINOODH
CHANGE
AG E NT
Change is inevitable, but how we respond during
times of upheaval is coming into focus. Remy Rippon
investigates the rise of modern-day resilience.
W
Photographed by Steven Klein.
hen Sheryl Sandberg, Facebook chief
operating officer and author of Lean In,
delivered the 2017 commencement speech at
Virginia Tech, most would have assumed she
would recite the inspirational yet rather
customary, ‘go get ’em style talk. But to the
surprise of the audience, a few minutes into
her address she stated matter-of-factly: “Today’s going to be a little bit
different because I’m not going to talk about something I know and you
don’t. I want to talk about something the Virginia Tech community
knows all too well. Today, I want to talk about resilience.” Sandberg
went on to explain how the sudden death of her husband over two years
ago “fundamentally changed how I viewed this world” and forced her
to research and learn the importance of resilience and recovery in times
of adversity. Last year, she even released a book on the topic, Option B,
co-authored with Adam Grant.
Sandberg isn’t the only one focusing on the subject. If 2017’s buzzword
was surely ‘wellness’, then the 2018 equivalent is set to be ‘resilience’. Most
recently, in a New York Times reader letter titled: ‘Will y’all please stop
yammering about resilience?’, the reader urged her mother to “stop sending
me these annoying articles about resilience”. Irritating or not, the upsurge
of literature and research on the subject echoes our increased need to be
adaptable and respond confidently to the changes that are happening all
around us. And we’re not talking about the latest iPhone update.
The ability to ‘bounce back’ from challenges has become increasingly
important in our demanding, always-on lives. We can have online
shopping delivered to our door in a matter of hours; technology to ping
you a notification to move when you’ve been sedentary for too long;
even simulated situations and landscapes by way of artificial
intelligence. But it seems, with this at-your-fingertip gratification and
streamlining of our lives, we’re increasingly blindsided when an change, or living in a convenient bubble where nothing goes awry, but
uncontrollable setback occurs. how you repair yourself after a state of hardship, which goes beyond
In her book, Bouncing Back: Rewiring Your Brain for Maximum Resilience dusting yourself off, pretending it didn’t happen, or donning a smile.
and Well-Being, Linda Graham notes modern society has pushed us into For Rebecca Todd*, life was plodding along rather smoothly. She was
a heightened state of anxiousness, which actually inhibits the parts of the financial controller of a media company and she and her husband
the brain that can rationally deal with situations and problem-solve. had just renovated their inner-city terrace. “Everything in my life felt
What happens when the start-up stops? Or you’re overlooked for that like it was lining up just right,” says the 33-year-old. In the space of a
big promotion? Or worse, you receive a terrible diagnosis regarding month, a knock-back from a new position at another company and the
your health? culmination of 12 months of unsuccessfully trying to fall pregnant
“Most people acknowledge that stress affects their lives and their started to have an impact. “I just felt as though this life I had worked
health,” says health advocate and author of A Life Less Stressed, Dr Ron so hard for began to tumble down around me, and I had no idea how to
Ehrlich. “But truly understanding what those stresses are and how they deal with it,” she says. “It felt like there was nothing I could do to pull
can affect you is empowering.” Resilience, it should be noted, hinges myself out of the hole I was in.”
not on the perceived level of stress associated with a problem (after all, For both Todd and Sandberg, it wasn’t until they found themselves in
what’s incredibly stressful to one person may not be to the next) but the eye of upheaval that they went in pursuit of a mechanism for
more on how we react to any given situation. It isn’t about resisting handling it. Early research suggested that those who were able to bounce
144
“When the
stress response
begins
to happen,
recognise it as
your body’s way
of upping your
energy and
helping you
rise to the
challenge”
back from hardship were gifted with an innate ability to handle stressful can help you leave the stress of work at work, and shift your focus to who
situations, but more recent findings conclude resilience can actually be you want to be as a partner, parent or friend when you get home.”
taught, developed and even strengthened; the brain, in fact, can be Likewise, being optimistic in dire times can shift thinking from being
rewired. “We are not born with a certain amount of resilience. It is a negative to finding solutions, which often means extracting yourself
muscle and that means we can build it,” says Sandberg in her address. from the situation in order to see a way out. Using stress to fuel reaction
“They [resilience skills] are not only ‘learnable’ they are potentially life- can also help. Clements says a way to deal with a deadline or stressful
altering,” says Ehrlich. The key is self-awareness; identifying when situation is to channel stress warning signs – heart pounding, palms
resilience levels are low, and stress levels are high, and knowing the sweating, thoughts racing – into a positive outcome. “One of the best
strategies to implement. While everyone’s method varies, Rachel strategies for strengthening your resilience is shifting your stress mind-
Clements, director of psychological services at the Centre for Corporate set so you harness your body’s physiological response to stress, instead
Health, notes the simplest (and most easily learnt) methods are often the of allowing your stress response to overwhelm you,” she says. “When
most effective, particularly when it comes to stress at work: “It could be the stress response begins to happen, recognise it as your body’s way of
as simple as getting enough restful sleep, blocking out some time to upping your energy and helping you rise to the challenge. This is a key
exercise, or learning some simple breathing exercises to rest and relax at trait of resilient people; instead of letting their body’s stress response be
the end of the working day,” she says. “Practising mindful meditation for debilitating, they use it to keep them in their performance zone.”
just 10 minutes on your way home from work can be a great strategy that *Names have been changed.
FEBRUARY 2018 14 5
146
A
LEAGUE
OF
THEIR
OWN
After years of being told they can’t, the stars of
the AFL Women’s League are here to prove they
can and certainly will. By Noelle Faulkner. Styled
I
by Petta Chua. Photographed by Justin Ridler.
t was an otherwise ordinary Friday sunset in February 2017 when a
roaring crowd of around 24,500 people were sardined into historic Ikon
Park, all there to watch a clash of notable rivals, the Carlton and
Collingwood football clubs. The venue, under-prepared and
overwhelmed, was forced to execute a lockout at quarter-time due to
overcrowding, and by halftime, 2,000-plus people had been turned away
and a snaking queue of hopeful blue, black and white jerseys had formed.
The match, streamed on free-to-air television, earned an audience of more
than 1.1 million people, setting the tone for a thrilling season to come.
Except, this wasn’t your regular footy match – these players kicked like girls.
To relay the sheer goosebump-inducing emotion and thick, nervous
energy involved in the kind of debut experienced by the AFL Women’s
League (AFLW), you first have to comprehend the tireless toil behind it.
Imagine these women as children, talented and passionate, living and
breathing their beloved game, then at 13, being told: “Sorry, you’re good at
this, but you can’t do it anymore, because you’re a girl: there’s nowhere for
you to play.” That’s the hard truth and a weight carried by many of the
women of the AFLW, forced to give up their boots because a glass ceiling
covered their playground.
“When you’re that young, you’ve just living in your own fantasy world
of playing football. You don’t really think there’s ever going to be an end,”
sighs Adelaide co-captain, Olympic gold medallist and WNBA basketball
player Erin Phillips, 32, who has returned to Australia from her adopted US
home to play in the league. “You love it. Then, as you get a bit older, your
parents have to tell you it isn’t forever, and that’s tough for a 13-year-old who
doesn’t understand inequality. That was going to be my dream; all I wanted
to do was play football like my dad.” Phillips admits the only reason she
started playing basketball was to distract herself from the sadness of giving
up football.
“Every time someone asks me how this feels, I shake my head. I have no
words,” says Adelaide Crows co-captain Chelsea Randall. “At 11 this was
my dream, and now at 26, it’s a reality. Incredible. Shattering. Devastating.
You just don’t understand why you can’t play anymore.” All sentiments
repeated by the six players pictured on these pages over and over again.
AFL Women’s team players, from “There was definitely that feeling during the season, where you’d looked
left, Western Bulldogs’s Katie around and think: ‘Wow. Every woman who is here has been told at some
Brennan, Carlton’s Darcy Vescio and
the Adelaide Crows’s Erin Phillips. point that they shouldn’t be,” says Carlton’s Darcy Vescio, 24, who began
Banner from Allstar Banners. playing football at five. “Or they’ve been forced to stop through the →
FEBRUARY 2018 147

Darcy Katie
Vescio Brennan
(left) and (left) and
Brianna Chelsea
Davey. Randall.
Stars of the AFL Women’s teams.
Ellie Blackburn
Darcy Vescio (left)

and Brianna Davey.
Chelsea Randall
CREDIT
and Katie Brennan
148
Opposite page, group
shot, left to right: Erin
Phillips wears a Puma
sleeveless hoodie, $70,
crop top, $45, and
shorts, $40; Chelsea
Randall wears a
Lululemon top, $69, and
bra, $59. L’urv leggings,
$99. XBlades football
boots, $180; Katie
Brennan wears a Puma
tank top, $30, crop top,
$45, and shorts, $40;
Ellie Blackburn wears
an Adidas by Stella
McCartney sports bra,
$120. Adidas pants,
$80; Darcy Vescio wears
a Nike jacket, $165,
sports bra, $50, and
leggings, $60; Brianna
Davey wears a Nike tank
top, $75, and shorts,
$50. All athletes (except
Randall), wear their
own football boots.
Right: Erin Phillips.
system. It certainly hasn’t been an easy path to get here; we’ve had no Bulldogs, the Dockers, the Pies, the Blues, the Demons. They are not a
encouragement to play all the way through.” Minnie Mouse lipstick league, like the Carlton Cranberries or something
There are more than 400,000 girls across Australia playing football at all – there is a definite strive for equality.
levels, and with national women’s leagues for soccer, basketball, cricket, “That first game, where we ran out in our uniforms, it hit home. It was
rugby union and more, some decades-old and Olympic medal-winning; like: ‘How good is this?!’” gushes Ellie Blackburn of Western Bulldogs,
considering the game dates back to 1896, and the fact that female Aussie 23. “We’re so lucky to be wearing AFL colours, and you look to the
Rules teams date back to 1915, you have to wonder: what took so long? crowd and see little girls and boys with our teams on their jumpers –
“It is a dream come true, which has taken a lot of blood, sweat and tears they haven’t seen that before!”
to finally achieve,” says Susan Alberti, AC, former vice-president of the “I adored the ground the AFL players walked on,” says Brianna
Western Bulldogs Football Club and one of the AFLW’s biggest advocates. Davey, 23, Carlton co-vice captain, former W-League soccer player and
“It took a big push from a very committed group of ‘believers’ to finally childhood Aussie Rules player. “There were no female players, so you
deliver AFLW. In 2013 we began a regular representative match of elite just looked to the men, which is why it’s so cool to have the opportunity
A LJLU SP TR I NC ERSI DALPEPRR OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
women footballers representing the Melbourne Football Club and the to be that and give young girls a future.”
Western Bulldogs,” she explains. “They played ‘curtain raisers’ to the The clubs themselves are taking on the roles as well. For example,
men’s games, drawing a lot of interest and support. I think there was a Adelaide Crows runs various football programs for girls across the
recognition that the standard was actually better than most people state, fostering the AFLW stars of the future and making sure no child
expected – we have elite athletes now choosing to play Aussie Rules over ever has to put down the ball because of their gender. “We’ve seen
other sports.” Alberti, herself a former Footscray cheer-girl with quashed around 10,500 girls across South Australia, across clinics in high schools
aspirations of playing the game professionally, says the clincher was the and primary schools,” says Randall, also the club’s community
incredible corporate support, attendance and television ratings that programs officer. “We introduce football and teach these girls the
those marquee games garnered. game, the skills and also run positive education programs around body
The silver lining to the late-to-the-party cloud is, despite only eight image and wellbeing.” She adds: “We love getting out there into the
clubs in the league so far (with six more to join by 2020), these players communities, because they’re the future of our game and we want to
CREDIT
are wearing AFL colours – they’re the Lions, the Giants, the Crows, the make sure there’s a healthy place for them to grow.” →
FEBRUARY 2018 149

Seeing the league’s trailblazer stars for the fearless
women they are, Disney Australia has just launched a
#ProudtobeaPrincess campaign with some of the AFLW
players (including the six shot here) in the hope to redefine
what it means to be a modem-day princess, taking back the
sexist slur thrown at them along the way. (These women
have stories upon stories of that kind of behaviour.)
“It’s a powerful thing in itself, that like the Disney
princesses, all women are different,” says Western
Bulldogs’s Katie Brennan, 25, who fell for the game when
she stood in for her brother and kicked seven goals in one
game at age four. “I was always that little girl who played
with the boys and never wanted to wear a dress. But then
you look at characters like Mulan, who doesn’t wear a
dress! And you realise she’s a boss who loves doing what
she wanted to do. She just does her.”
“I’ve certainly been called a princess as a derogatory
term,” pipes up Vescio. “It’s just sexism, isn’t it? But we
look at it in the same way as what we’re doing with the
AFLW where ‘playing like a girl’ is a positive thing.” She
laughs. “We’re playing like girls every time we play!”
Like many women, the majority of the AFLW players are
multitasking at the highest level – they still have day jobs.
There are graphic designers, business owners, musicians,
office workers, mothers, carers and even those who have
served in the defence forces. Unlike the men’s teams, who
can earn upwards of six digits a year, these athletes are
balancing work, life, football and training requirements.
And if you’ve ever witnessed an AFL game in the flesh,
you’ll respect the kind of endurance needed to play at a
professional level. So there’s still a road to go before the
next generation experiences an equal playing field.
“We need to continue investing in the grassroots,” says
Alberti of achieving equality. “Participation is booming,
with more than 1.5 million people playing the game in
2017 and females making up 30 per cent of that figure.
The AFL has a goal of female players making up 50 per
cent participation, which will continue to improve the
standard of the game in coming years.” Interestingly,
notes Alberti, for a lot of young girls it’s not so much a
task of convincing them to play, but offering better
facilities so that they can.
“Maybe it’s because I’m a mother, but it’s not just about
winning or losing,” muses Phillips. “There is a different
sense of why we’re really here. Yes, one is we love to play
football and to win, but we’re inspiring so many younger
females to play this game. Whether they take it on forever
is irrelevant, it’s more the fact they’re getting out there,
having a go and being fit and healthy,” she continues.
“They look up to us. We’re somebody’s heroes. That to me
has become the number-one reason to play this sport. I’m
just really grateful that I’ll never have to sit my daughter
CJ UR SETDIINT R I D L E R
down like my parents did and say: ‘Well, your brother can
play football but you can’t.’ To me, that is very special.”
Join the movement: #ProudtobeaPrincess.
150 FEBRUARY 2018

From left: Erin Phillips,

Chelsea Randall, Katie
Brennan, Ellie Blackburn,
Darcy Vescio and
Brianna Davey.
Hair: Wayne Chick
Make-up: Colette Miller
Shot on location at the
CREDIT
Victoria University
Whitten Oval.
FEBRUARY 2018 151

EASY
DOES
IT
Slip into
something a little
more comfortable
for the start of
the year – relax
in loosened-up
separates and
softened neutral
tones. Styled
by Kate Phelan.
Photographed by
Brianna Capozzi.
152
J.W. Anderson vest,
$630, and pants, $1,275.
Beauty note: Dior Addict
Lip Glow. All prices
approximate; details at
Vogue.com.au/WTB.
FEBRUARY 2018 15 3
B R I A N N A C A P OZ Z I
Peter Pilotto
shirt, $970.
154 FEBRUARY 2018

Isa Arfen trench coat,
$1,590. Daks shirt,
$225. MM6 Maison
Margiela jeans, $600.
Fragrance: Bulgari
Goldea EDP.
FEBRUARY 2018 155

Calvin Klein
205W39NYC
jacket, $1,095,
and pants, $750.
Manolo Blahnik
shoes, $1,125.
Brunello Cucinelli shirt,

$5,135, and pants,
$1,800. Tiffany & Co.
earrings, $4,750.
158 FEBRUARY 2018

Giorgio Armani
top, $4,350, and
pants, $3,600.
Hair: Malcolm Edwards
Make-up:
Lynsey Alexander
Manicure: Adam Slee
Props: Samuel Overs
160
THE
FIGHT
OF
HER
LIFE
As brain cancer research recently received a
much-needed funding boost from the federal
government and philanthropists, Sara Chivers
shines a personal spotlight with her
heartbreaking story of being diagnosed with
the terminal disease, then discovering her
18-month-old son also had a brain tumour. As
told to Kate Halfpenny. Styled by Petta Chua.
S
Photographed by Justin Ridler.
ome people collect coloured glass or vintage
cufflinks or old kitchen tins. I’m a keeper of
mementoes. Cards – birthday, Christmas,
engagement, wedding, both boys’ arrivals –
hospital name tags, the poem my husband
Leigh wrote for my 21st birthday, first baby
clothes. It’s the sentiments they hold.
I treasure them.
In the last few months, I’ve also collected memories. I am
living with terminal brain cancer and, thanks to three
inoperable, incurable, creeping tumours, the question isn’t
whether I will die from this disease, it’s when. I am facing
my mortality, so remembering incredible times and
writing goodbye letters to Leigh and my sons Hugh and
Alfie has become a race against time. But even knowing
where to start is hard. Apologise for not being there?
Impress it wasn’t my choice to be taken away?
It doesn’t deserve top billing, but maybe it’s best to get
the shadowy evil out of the way early. Brain cancer and
I first met when I was training for my first half-marathon
at age 25 and collapsed at work. Three surgeries and
seven weeks of radiation therapy later, I had scar tissue
and a large cavity in my brain, but the beast was
effectively tamed. →
FEBRUARY 2018 161

I got on with life, the spectre of cancer becoming less terrifying as I was 13, which was more about her ruining my beloved magazines.
years passed. Then on a muggy day in March last year, in a room with At school I wanted to be a lawyer, but at university realised the power
scuffed walls and bad light, I had a death sentence delivered while of PR, which took me to London and gave me pride in the ambition and
Melbourne went by outside. That was surreal. It’s surreal to know I have headstrong glee it sparked in me.
been given such a short life timeframe. To know I won’t get to see Hugh I can’t stand price tags that leave behind that sticky film. My perfume
and Alfie start school, graduate, forge careers, find partners, get of choice is Michael Kors. My consumption of Whittaker’s coconut
married, have their own children. chocolate is next level. Chick lit is my favourite literary genre. I’ve
It’s surreal to know I won’t see old age. And that I will leave Leigh always had an obsession with numbers and dates (I loathe odd
A
a single dad. numbers). Winter is my preferred season. I wish I was a better cook.
I have so much grief for a life I won’t be living.
As my aggressive tumours refused to crumble to chemotherapy, I lost t the heart of the Sara jigsaw, far from the edges,
movement down the right side of my body. Tying up my hair, opening is Leigh. We went to brother and sister schools
a bottle and showering became puzzlingly hard. I concentrated on and there was a lot of fanfare about him, because
choosing kitchen splashback tiles to fend off the searing pain that came of his good looks and athletic build. We first kissed
with life turning into a waiting game with death. after a rowing after-party and I didn’t find out
But then came the cruellest twist. In September, Alfie was also until years later that one of our friends said that night
diagnosed with an aggressive and rare form of brain cancer. Some we would get married, which we did on a fabulous,
statistics suggest three children in one million have it. There are no riotous day in 2012.
words that do justice to the way in which our hearts have been shattered I had always considered myself a career woman, then suddenly the
for our beautiful little boy. Blood tests could not find an inherited desire to have a baby was all-consuming. It took five months of trying
genetic mutation, so this may just be the most horrible of coincidences. before those two thin lines appeared. We wanted to tell our families on
Lightning can strike twice. Christmas Day and I gave Leigh the responsibility. After we unwrapped
Alfie’s diagnosis with the paediatric illness that kills more Australian presents, one was left under the tree. Leigh said it was for me. I pulled
children than any other gave me a new momentum. Within a day, out a Country Road baby onesie and the significance dawned on the
cruelly kind knives were cutting inside his dear little head, which family. I burst into tears.
swelled like a cartoon image despite a shunt to drain fluid. There was After 10 tumultuous months with Hugh, we were both shell-shocked
despair: the best treatment option to kill the tumour and not leave him and delighted to find out I was pregnant again. It felt right, making a
disabled from lifesaving poisons was in the US, which would take home and having two perfect children to care for. Now, my marriage
him and Leigh away from me and Hugh for perhaps a year. There was and family have given me something special to live for, which
triumph: he was accepted into the US trial, and of course he had to go; sometimes makes it even harder to think about not being part of their
he came first. There was new despair: he was too sick to fly. There was future. Ten years on, I am in love with Leigh’s courage, care and
P R E V I O U S PA G E : M A X M A R A D R E S S . PA S PA L E Y E A R R I N G S . T I F FA N Y & CO . B R A C E L E T A N D R I N G .
renewed hope: he started best-practice chemotherapy in Melbourne and willingness to pick up the pieces and continue to move our family
O P P O S I T E PA G E : E R D E M D R E S S , F R O M DAV I D J O N E S . C A RT I E R E A R R I N G S . B U LG A R I R I N G .
still managed to smile hugely at me after daily four-hourly sessions of forward regardless of the obstacles in our way.
slow intravenous dripping. My love for Leigh knows no bounds, so I would always want him to
I stopped thinking about home decoration, because I refuse to let my find happiness, with me or after I’m gone. More than anything, I want
little boy be a statistic. It’s frustrating: at a time when my usual to be there to see our family grow together, but I find the thought
energy has left and I’m taking daytime naps – me! – I need all my of another long-term female presence just as comforting for the
might and willpower to give Alfie a voice. He needs me to champion his boys’ future and Leigh’s happiness. Leigh is too young to live the rest
cause. He needs me to be strong. He will be my legacy. He needs me to of his life alone. I have faith he will make the right choice for himself
keep on living. and the boys.
God knows, I’m trying. I say God, although right now my family is The doctors really don’t know how much time I have left. It’s all about
a stronger religion that my actual one. After Alfie was diagnosed I had options and how long they might be effective for. Right now my greatest
surgery on the most insistent of my tumours and started radiotherapy fear is not so much how much time, but how much quality time. With
again, in a last-roll-of-the-dice scenario. And I kicked the memory my speech now being affected, I’m more fearful of further loss of D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
project into high gear. Hugh and Alfie need to know about who I really capabilities than how much time I have left.
am, and how much I love them and their dad and the world we made. Underneath the complexity and sadness of our situation, I believe
Now able to only type with my left hand, I am fighting to tell my story, nothing can be wholly good or bad unless we choose or decide it is this
not the kind, homogenised one everyone knows, but my own. way. I am a perfectionist, priding myself on impeccable manners, hard
There’s no order or importance to what I want to say. Like I’ve always work, style. But I am also honest: I must let go of my previous life and
been pedantic about the state of my books. That I cried countless times absorb that the odds are no longer in my favour. I hope by telling my
as Mum ripped out the sealed sections of my Dolly magazines when story, I can help change this for Alfie and those yet to be diagnosed. ■
162
“The doctors really don’t know how much time I have
P H OTO G R A P H : J U S T I N R I D L E R H A I R : WAY N E C H I C K M A K E- U P: CO L E T T E M I L L E R
left. It’s all about options and how long they might be
effective for. Right now my greatest fear is not so
much how much time, but how much quality time”
FEBRUARY 2018 16 3
VOGUE VOYAGE
Tough luxe
Rustic luxury and gruelling hikes
create lasting memories – and
results – at this health retreat
in Los Angeles. By Jody Scott.
PHOTOG R APHS AN SO N S MART
The Ranch at Live Oak, a luxury

boot camp in Malibu, nestled in
the Santa Monica mountains
outside of Los Angeles.
164
E D I TO R : M A R K S A R I B A N
The communal living, dining

room and kitchen are housed in
the original Spanish hacienda.
FEBRUARY 2018 165

VOGUE VOYAGE
This page, clockwise

from top left: a
communal area at
The Ranch; the pool,
a welcome respite
from the heat; lunch
is served at the
shaded outdoor
table; the calm living
area, furnished with
creamy linen sofas
and weathered
wood; The Ranch
owners Sue and Alex
Glassock. Opposite:
paths and gardens
connect the guest
cottages to the
communal hacienda.
166
In the whitewashed cabins, crisp linens,
king or queen beds, bare timber floors,
natural textures and limestone bathrooms all
create a cocoon-like effect to help calm and
recalibrate the nervous system. And while
The Ranch is a phone-free zone, the cabins do
have WiFi (a recent concession to the twitchy
times we are in).
The sprawling 80-hectare property was once
a working ranch owned by Hollywood film
star William Boyd, of Hopalong Cassidy fame.
The property also served as a children’s
summer camp, but then the tiny camp cabins
lay abandoned for several decades before being
reincarnated by The Ranch owners Sue and
Alex Glassock.
In fact, it was fond memories of childhood
summer camps and long days spent outdoors
that inspired the Glassocks to create a retreat
where guests could recalibrate their physical
and emotional health. “I wanted to create a
place that felt like when you are a little kid
and go to camp and it’s so happy,” says Sue.
“For years before we created it, we laughingly
called it ‘the happy camp’.”
While The Ranch lies just a few kilometres
away from LaLa Land (arguably the epicentre
of global wellness fads), it has a surprisingly
simple albeit strict philosophy based on
exercise, low-calorie (just 1,400 calories,
or around 6,000 kilojoules, per day) but
nutrient-dense, organic vegetarian meals,
rest and conversation.
Everyone – no exceptions – wakes at 5am to
the sound of Tibetan bells and begins their
day with a half-hour stretch class, followed by
a bowl of house-made granola and almond
milk for breakfast. Next comes the daily
W
group hike along steep mountain trails for
hat’s happens on the trail, stays on the trail at LA’s most four to five hours. Total immersion in nature, tough physical challenges,
luxurious boot camp, where everyone hikes for at least four the talking and the tears that are often shed on the trail are all part
hours a day. And it has an A-list clientele that makes you of the magic, says Sue. “People are giving themselves permission to let
wish those rocky canyon trails could talk. Former US First Lady Michelle go. It is quite cathartic and beautiful to see.”
Obama recently paid a visit, wellness maven Gwyneth Paltrow is a fan Back at The Ranch, guests eat lunch around the communal outdoor
and Rebel Wilson famously lost almost four kilograms in a week here. table under a wicker canopy or in the organic vegetable garden; that’s
Perched on a magnificent ridge in the Santa Monica mountains, The followed by a mandatory nap. Then it’s on to the afternoon’s activities,
Ranch at Live Oak sits high above Malibu’s celebrity-studded canyons, which include a fitness class, a massage and a yoga class. All up that’s
gated ocean-front estates (where Kelly Wearstler has a summer house) eight, yes, eight hours of exercise every single day.
and the sparkling blue Pacific Ocean. But this boot camp delivers results The evening meal takes place at a long table in the dining room, which
as seriously spectacular as the 360-degree views. Numbers are capped at is the original main house, an original Spanish hacienda with steel-
just 18 guests a week, and everyone stays for a minimum of seven days. framed doors opening onto the gravelled courtyard and gardens.
After checking in, guests are weighed, have their body composition While dinner is a wine-free affair, there is no set bedtime and
calculated and cholesterol tested before settling into rustic yet refined everyone is free to sink into the oversized linen sofas in front of the
private cabins surrounded by leafy, landscaped gardens. fireplace to keep the healing conversations going.
Before arriving at The Ranch, you’re advised to give up alcohol, sugar, “Everyone is in it together, and that is part of the magic, I think,” says
A N S O N S M A RT
dairy and coffee, to make the transition easier. Guests are also asked to Sue. “Everyone is really nurtured and leaves feeling completely
send a photograph of something that makes them feel at home – family, empowered.” And a whole lot lighter …
friends or even a pet – which is put into a frame on their bedside table. For details, go to www.theranchmalibu.com.
FEBRUARY 2018 167

VOGUE SOIR ÉE
1. 3.
2. 4.
6.
5.
1. The dining room at the Stella Artois Christmas Sensorium lunch. 2. Chef Guillaume Brahimi. 3. A poolside setting at Shannon Bennett’s Melbourne home. 4. Guests dined
al fresco beneath the trees. 5. From left: Nick Smith, Edwina McCann, Angelos Frangopoulos, Penny Fowler and Brian Phan. 6. The custom Stella Artois-inspired menu.
168
7. 8. 9.
SOCIAL
11.
Stellar dining
Described as a “multi-sensorial, multi-course dining
10.
experience”, the Stella Artois Christmas Sensorium, held on 12.
a stunningly sunny day in Melbourne in December, was
celebrated at chef Shannon Bennett’s private South Yarra
residence. Bennett’s long-time friend, chef Guillaume
Brahimi, along with his team from Bistro Guillaume, tailored
a custom Stella Artois-inspired menu that drew on French
cuisine and showcased the best of local produce. Dishes
included a dressed spanner crab and wagyu beef with a
Stella Artois mayonnaise. And for dessert: “I wanted to make
the course interactive for guests, enabling them to construct
their own with me in the kitchen,” said Guillaume.
The third stop of the national initiative following the success
of the Sydney Sensorium with Shannon Bennett and the
Perth Sensorium with Adam D’Sylva, the Melbourne
Christmas celebration was an intimate gathering of just
35 guests, among them The Good Wife’s Makenzie Vega,
Outlander’s David Berry, Dalton Graham and Laura Henshaw
and Joey and Jane Scandizzo. Naturally, the beer flowed, too!
LU C A S DAW S O N
13. 14.
7. From left: Paul Juchima, David Abela, Nick Russian and Daniel Russian. 8. Rebecca Amos. 9. David Berry. 10. Laura Henshaw and Dalton Graham. 11. Blair Norfolk and
Makenzie Vega. 12. Staff serving guests in the outdoor setting. 13. Jane and Joey Scandizzo. 14. Inside the dining room with its elegant and refined ambience.
FEBRUARY 2018 169

YOU ’ RE INVITED
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Dr Julie Bradford, Dr Ross Farhadieh,

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specialist plastic Giorgio Armani
surgeon Beauty
READER EVENT
PHOTOGRAPH: SABINE VILLIARD/TRUNK ARCHIVE/SNAPPER MEDIA
ESSENTIALS
EVENT
Join Vogue and a team of insiders for
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the lowdown on the latest beauty and Time: 9am–3.30pm Jon Pulitano, Vincent Nobile,
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Aquarius Pisces Aries
HOROSCOPES
February
21 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY 19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH 21 MARCH – 20 APRIL
You’re supercharged this month It’s all happening inside your Retreat is your mantra now, so
and radiating fabulousness. head now. Any uncanny insights back off from energy vampires
Recent developments on the you have this month could and the pull of too many random
relationship front could see give you inside information on aims. Perfect peace gives you
you taking charge of your own a romance or with plans yet to the chance to dream big and get
destiny, with or without a plus be manifested. As things begin your thoughts clear about love,
one. You’re all about the money to take shape more tangibly, too. When inspiration strikes,
now too, and your best ‘mind over matter’ continues bringing new insights, you’ll
investments are purchases to bring out the best in you and know exactly what you need
that help to save the planet. attract love (and more) your way. to do and who you want.
STYLE ICON: Amal Clooney STYLE ICON: Rihanna STYLE ICON: Reese Witherspoon
Taurus Gemini Cancer

21 APRIL – 21 MAY 22 MAY – 21 JUNE 22 JUNE – 22 JULY
Welcome to a frantic and freaky You’re the centre of attention now There’s an intensity about your
work phase. The fall-out from for your wit and wisdom, so love-life now that’s thrilling
a home scenario that needed a channel your unique approach but also rather unsettling, and
shake-up could be the incentive to make some waves with your as your personal values are
to find more niche ways to pay career. Something you know or evolving, too, any hint of
the mortgage or rent, but you’ll do that nobody else does is the neediness will turn you off
find your career USP now and secret to your success this month. rather than activate your
feel invincible. Down time with Let it lap over your workplace caretaker instincts. Broaden
friends is also vital, for your gently, then sit back to watch your love and life experiences, as
imagination, creativity and love. your money and love grow. it’s time to go rolling in the deep.
STYLE ICON: Cher STYLE ICON: Lana Del Rey STYLE ICON: Eva Green
Leo Virgo Libra

23 JULY – 23 AUGUST 24 AUGUST – 22 SEPTEMBER 23 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER
Love grows where individuality This month brings you Head and heart are in
goes in a month that’s all about opportunities to get fit and unison, enabling a quirky new
relationships. Whether it’s by fabulous. Going with the flaw romance to arise or eliciting a
embracing your own inner nerd rather than with the flow spontaneous declaration of love
or celebrating the quirks that motivates you to look and feel to or from a significant other.
make the less than Greek your best by defying rather A spell of working selflessly
god(dess) in your life your perfect than defining boundaries. The frees your soul, as does
plus one, what’s unconventional outcome is an upswing in your accepting your body, so that
has the edge. Love and money romantic and work roles, as you’ll you’re loved for any perceived
are also entwined. be radiating poise and glamour. imperfections, not despite them.
STYLE ICON: Jennifer Lawrence STYLE ICON: Pippa Middleton STYLE ICON: Marion Cotillard
Scorpio Sagittarius Capricorn

24 OCTOBER – 22 NOVEMBER 23 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER 22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY
Your home life and ingrained You’ve got the gift of the gab this A different approach to your
habits need refreshing and month. Whether you’re seducing, usual love or money styles could
rebuilding so that you can pitching, teaching or learning, have unexpected benefits this
move onward and upwards. you can work miracles that will month. When it comes to amour,
Serendipity gets you out of a open doors and take you places. friendship rather than passion
A S T R O LO G E R : S T E L L A N O VA
home or personal rut and back You’re more focused than ever, works best. With finance, daring
in the game romantically, as but be wary of overdoing the (but not too risky) deals could
merging mind, body and soul hard sell. Home is love central for pay off. Deluding yourself or
with a lover or a creative project you now, full of conversations misleading others is a potential
is the only way to go. and the urge to merge. hazard, so talk and listen hard.
STYLE ICON: Kendall Jenner STYLE ICON: Lara Stone STYLE ICON: Sienna Miller
FEBRUARY 2018 17 1
GEORGIA MAE SLAY THE LABEL
Georgia Mae is an Tomorrow’s fashion today,

Australian based fashion
VOGUE AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY
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MOVE YOUR BODY ZOE AUSTIN

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TIGER AND TAUPE BARE BODY BOUTIQUE

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ENVY ATTIRE HIRE BLUSH CLOTHING

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READY OR NOT JO MERCER
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STATE OF STYLE TRENDY CREATURE

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EVAS SUNDAY
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FEBRUARY 2018
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MUSSEN BOUTIQUE
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DAKOTA

Dakota Fanning wears a Gucci

‘‘ YOU HAVE TO BE association with Garbiñe Muguruza,

THE HARD WORK WILL

TRENDS WITH BENEFITS neutral tones.

There’s no shortage of new wellness trends to try.

Meet the first woman to complete a marathon. Voyage

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EDITORIA L ADMINISTR ATION AND RIGHTS

Nat ion a l S a le s a nd St rat e g y D i re c t or, St y le N IC OL E WAU DBY (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 61 .

Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve D i re c t or R IC H A R D M c AU L I F F E Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve Ma na ger E VA C HOW N

P ro duc t ion Ma n a ger M IC H E L L E O ’ BR I E N Ad ver t i si ng P ro duc t ion C o ord i n at or GI N A J I A NG

G enera l Ma n a ger, R et a i l S a le s a nd Ci rc u lat ion BR E T T W I L L I S

D ig it a l D i re c t or J U L I A N DE L A N E Y S en ior P ro duc t Ma n a ger CA S S A N DR A A L L A R S

Ma rket i ng D i re c t or – L i fe s t y le DI A N A K AY Bra nd Ma n a ger s R AC H E L C H R I ST I A N K I M BE R L E Y GR AC E Event Ma rket i ng Ma na ger BRO OK E K I NG

Su b s c r ipt ion s: w it h i n A u s t ra l ia , 13 0 0 6 5 6 93 3 ; over s e a s: (61 2) 92 82 8 02 3 . E m a i l : s u b s @ m a g s on l i ne .c om . au .

C ondé Na s t I nt er nat iona l JON AT H A N N E W HOUS E C ha i r m a n a nd C h ief E xe c ut i ve

P r i nt e d by PM P L i m it e d , Pa p er f ibre i s f rom s u s t a i n a bl y m a na ge d fore s t s a nd c ont rol le d s ou rc e s .

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Anna Quan top, $380,

MaxMara jacket, $6,725. Miu Miu

“You don’t have

Giorgio Armani coat, $5,450.

Get that natural

“Perfectly imperfect beach texture is what you’ll get after using

or trousers to straps and placement prints as a zig

and a zag. Any which way, a little goes far at this

Left: Kate Sylvester jacket, $219, and pants, $169.

Icons will be icons

Girl and Cat xxxxxx

Kate Moss in A lace slip dress

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Petal power Love it

Kors maillot, $749.

This page: Michael

would personally do the rounds in America. “I’d go to Indiana, I’d go to

The looks of love

Shiny happy people Top of the grade

Left: the hotel reception area. Top: a linen textile, Pray

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Robby Ingham (left) wears his

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