Taiwan Panorama 2019 Apr

全球．在地．人文
中華民國108年4月第44卷第4期
中英文北美版
Vol. 44 No. 4 April 2019
CHINESE–ENGLISH BILINGUAL MONTHLY ISSN 1991-525X
台美友誼
回眸四十
破風 ‧
印度好麗色彩節在台灣
台灣味覺行腳
從美援到世界麵包冠軍
40 Years
of Taiwan–US
觀海 ‧
Relations
追夕陽
建議售價
NT$150
US$5
HK$40
¥600
泡腳
Soaking Feet
圖／文‧林格立　版面設計‧王敬勛
日清晨，來到宜蘭
冬礁溪的湯圍溝溫泉 E arly on a winter morning at Tangweigou Hot
Springs Park in Jiaoxi, Yilan County, through
swirling mist you see early risers gathered together to
公園，只見霧靄氤氳，早
起的民眾，齊聚泡腳，或 soak their feet. Some sitting, some standing, each finds
坐或站，各自找到最舒服 their own most comfortable position, letting the hot
的方式，讓溫泉水透過腳 spring water warm their entire bodies through their
底暖和全身，享受這片刻 feet, and enjoying a sense of wellbeing.
幸福。 (photo and text by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)
編人的
編者絮話語
台美深厚情誼
文．陳亮君
中華民國108年4月1日出版（月刊）／
中華民國65年1月1日創刊
1979年美國國會通過《台灣關係法》後聽他述說來台的種種故事，以及如何透過
出版者光華畫報雜誌社
發行人／吳釗燮
旋即成立「美國在台協會」，作為美方與沙畫來體驗愛與生活。
Publisher: Jaushieh Joseph WU
社長／陳銘政台灣之間溝通的橋梁。雙方在此法的基礎 * * *
Director: Henry M.J. CHEN
總編輯／陳亮君（代理）
Editor-in-Chief (acting): Ivan CHEN 上，進行包含知識、文化、科技等方面的《光華》行旅的腳步永不停歇，本次騎
副總編輯／陳亮君
Deputy Editor-in-Chief: Ivan CHEN
文稿主編／曾蘭淑交流，也讓台美關係未因動盪的世界局勢行台灣以海線為軸，帶讀者造訪鐵道迷暱
Editor: Esther TSENG
文稿副主編／郭玉平
Deputy Editor: Camille KUO
而衰退，反而日趨緊密與鞏固。稱的「海線五寶」（5座日式木造車站），
文字編輯／鄧慧純陳群芳蘇俐穎
Writers: Cathy TENG, CHEN Chun-fang, 本期《光華》封面故事將以40年來美國一探苗栗海線的故事；還有國家圖書館積
Lynn SU
版面主編／胡如瑜
Director of Layout: HU Ju-yu 對台灣文化、教育、產業的影響，以及美極聯繫海外學人，與外交部駐外人員攜
美術編輯／蕭郢岑王敬勛
Art Editors: HSIAO Ying-tsen, Henry WANG
攝影組召集人／莊坤儒援時期所留下的建築，作深入的探訪與報手，成功在海外設立31個「台灣漢學資源
Photographic Coordinator: CHUANG Kung-ju
攝影組長／林格立
Photographic Director: Jimmy LIN
導，揭開了往日時光的美好印記，也訴說中心」，多年來持續對外輸出台灣式的漢
攝影編輯／林旻萱
Photojournalist: LIN Min-hsuan 了多年來台美交流的深厚情誼。學文化，使東西文化有更多元、開放的匯
英文編輯／陳瑩潔唐樂榕倪凱駿
* * *
English Editors: Audrey CHEN, Robert TAYLOR,
Phil NEWELL 流，免於單一角度的一言堂。
日文編輯／山口雪菜施家騏
好麗色彩節（H o l i F e s t i v a l）是印度三
Japanese Editors: Yukina YAMAGUCHI,
Shila SHIH 同樣令人驕傲的台灣學術貢獻，還包括
印尼文編輯／陳德銘
Indonesian Editor: Temmy WIRYAWAN
越南文編輯／武秋香
大節慶之一，在台灣每年有超過上千人的台灣客家研究，2018年11月13至15日由交
Vietnamese Editor: VU Thu Huong
資深行政編輯／段蜀華參與，其中僅四分之一是印度人，其餘全通大學客家文化學院主辦的跨域國際研討
Senior Administrative Editor: DUAN Shu-hwa
總監／鍾宜蓉是在台灣的外國人與本地人，讓我們跟著會，韓、日、泰、美、印尼、馬來西亞、

Marketing Director: Carianne CHUNG
業務協理／陳俊偉
Deputy Manager: CHEN Jyun-wei 《光華》的腳步，一同體驗印度傳統的紐西蘭的學者均互相交換心得，台灣客家
綜合服務組長／陳淑英
Chief of General Affairs: CHEN Shu-ing
綜合服務組／李淑慧
節日。研究之特質與豐富的跨領域研究經驗，讓
General Affairs: S.H. LEE
發行組／何世隆而以移民為主的台灣，每一道菜餚背後台灣成為全球客家的研究重鎮。
Circulation: HO Shih-lung
都象徵著一個超乎想像的文化系譜，原族群分野，講求的是歷史和文化認同。而
生、移民與殖民的交融，廣納各方的台灣今台灣客家人的認定，早已不侷限在「血
飲食，如何形塑出具台灣特色的「台灣緣論」的條件，而是符合「文化認同論」
菜」，讓《光華》帶大家探尋台菜的古與的思潮。希望透過《光華》的報導內容，
新；還有專訪台灣第一位獲得街頭藝人證讓更多人喜愛台灣、認同台灣，並努力創
照的菲律賓籍移工、沙畫藝術家馬力歐，造下一個美好年代。 l
A Deep and Abiding EDITOR’S NOTE
Friendship
T he United States established the Amer- tral Library’s work with the Ministry of GPN: 2008000038 ISSN1991-525X
原刊名光華 Sinorama Magazine
ican Institute in Taiwan as a channel Foreign Affairs to establish 31 Taiwan Re- 中華民國95年1月改為台灣光華雜誌
Taiwan Panorama
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dia to hear about his life in Taiwan and his The fact that the criteria by which Taiwan’s
use of sand art to depict life and love. Hakka are defined transcend simple lineage
Taiwan Panorama is an inveterate trav- to recognize subjective cultural identity of-
eler. This month, we take our readers along fers a case in point. Similarly, we hope that
the West Coast Line to visit three of the our content will inspire all who love and
five Japanese-style wooden train stations identify with Taiwan to work towards an
known as the “five treasures of the coastal even brighter future for our land. l
line.” We also report on the National Cen- (Ivan Chen/tr. by Scott Williams)
本刊物印刷油墨使用環保認證大豆油墨
目次
CONTENTS 中華民國108年4月第44卷第4期 Vol. 44 No. 4 April 2019
8 封面故事 Cover Story
6 回眸四十‧台美友誼
40 Years of Taiwan–US Relations
8 堅定的夥伴與盟友
台美關係40年
Staunch Partners and Allies
—40 Years of Taiwan–US Relations
文‧曾蘭淑　圖‧美國資料中心
16 16 從美援到世界麵包冠軍
台灣飲食風貌變更
From US Aid to Champion Bakers
—Taiwan’s Changing Dietary Culture
文‧陳群芳　圖‧林格立
26 素樸與新意
走讀台灣第一代現代建築
Straightforward Yet Innovative:
Taiwan’s First Modernist Buildings
文‧蘇俐穎　圖‧林旻萱
26
38 台美文化交流的橋梁
ICRT，40週年
Cultural Bridge to America
—ICRT Celebrates Four Decades
文‧曾蘭淑　圖‧ICRT
編者的話來自地方的明信片
Editor’s Note Postcards from Home
2 台美深厚情誼 1 泡腳 50 月月好讀
A Deep and Abiding Friendship Soaking Feet Variety Pages
文‧陳亮君圖／文‧林格立丁松青
影像對話 Photo Essay
封面說明：
台美關係隨著時光的遞嬗，亙久而堅定。
（林旻萱攝／外交部資料／農委會提供）
54 給影像一個肉身：侯怡亭
Cover: Through changing times, Taiwan’s relations with Giving Images Bodies: Hou I-ting
the US remain enduring and steadfast. (photo by Lin Min- 圖‧侯怡亭提供　文‧沈柏逸
hsuan/MOFA file photo/courtesy of COA)
全球視野 Global Outlook
64 全球客家研究重鎮──台灣
多元研究，全球學術聯盟
Taiwan, Global Center of Hakka Studies
文‧李珊瑋　圖‧林旻萱
島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan
74 台灣味覺行腳
74
舌尖的未竟之旅
Tracing Taiwanese Tastes
—A Tour for the Palate
文‧蘇俐穎　圖‧莊坤儒
86 破風‧觀海‧追夕陽
苗栗海線騎行
Cycling the Miaoli Coast
—Wind, Sea and Sunsets
文‧鄧慧純　圖‧莊坤儒
藝文脈絡 Cultural Trends
98 讓西方與東方相遇
86
台灣漢學國際交流
West Meets East:
Taiwan’s Role in Global Sinology
文‧黃淑姿　圖‧林旻萱
多元族群 Communities
108 繽紛狂歡．彩色人生
A Riot of Colors:
The Holi Festival in Taiwan
文‧曾蘭淑　圖‧林格立
116 幸福由沙畫出發
108
移工藝術家──馬力歐
Going with the Grain
—Migrant-Worker Sand Artist Mario
Subeldia
文‧李珊瑋　圖‧林格立
封面故事　COVER STORY
6 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

回眸四十
台美友誼
40 Years of
Taiwan–US Relations
圖•林格立、林旻萱、美國資料中心、農委會、ICRT
7
封面故事
堅定的夥伴與盟友
COVER
STORY 台美關係40年
Staunch Partners and Allies
—40 Years of Taiwan–US Relations
文•曾蘭淑　圖•美國資料中心提供　版面設計•王敬勛
「在我絕大部份回憶中，台灣人都是非常友
善的。」前美國在台協會台北辦事處處長楊甦
棣12歲時，曾在高雄的美軍社區住了2年。他回
憶：「身為一個八年級學生，我總是從家門前
的泥路等校車。小孩看見我們會說『米國郎，
OK』。『美國人，OK』，那應該是一種美國人
是台灣人盟友與夥伴的直覺，就算是小孩也能了
解。⋯⋯」
“M ostly, I remember that Taiwanese were

very friendly,” says Stephen Young, former
director of the Taipei Office of the American Insti-
tute in Taiwan, who lived in an American military
community in Kaohsiung for two years when he was 東西橫貫公路的開鑿，有美
援與美籍工程專家的協助才
12 years old. He recalls: “As an eighth-grade student,
完成。（外交部資料）
I used to walk down the dirt road and wait for the US aid, and assistance from
US engineers, were crucial to
school bus. Little local kids would see us there and the successful construction
say ‘Bi-gok-lang OK’—‘American OK.’ I think there of the Central Cross-Island
Highway. (Ministry of Foreign
was a sense that America was Taiwan’s friend and Affairs file photo)
partner, and even children had that sense….”

（林格立攝　photo by Jimmy Lin）
9
美國在台協會的「數位行動書車」，開進全台各地的偏鄉小學，
藉此傳遞美國文化。
The “Mobile American Corner” of the American Institute in Taiwan
visits remote primary schools all over Taiwan to teach children about
American culture.

1979年1月1日由於美國與中國大陸建交，風 The United States of America established formal diplo-
雨飄搖之際，同年4月10日美國國會通過《台灣 matic relations with mainland China as of January 1, 1979.
關係法》，成為中華民國台灣與美國繼續維持商 Given the unstable situation that this created, in March
務、文化等關係往來的基礎。 of the same year the US Congress passed the Taiwan Re-
lations Act, which took effect on April 10 and became the
《台灣關係法》實施至今40年，因應此法而
foundation for the continuation of commercial, cultural,
設立的美國在台協會（以下簡稱「AIT」）為此
and other relations between the Republic of China on Tai-
在全台舉辦巡迴「AIT@40-1979年後美台關係特 wan and the US.
展」。在特展中，一張張陳列的照片，在時光的 This year marks the 40th anniversary of the entry into
流轉裡，訴說著台美之間的深厚情誼；在特寫的 force of the Taiwan Relations Act, and the American Insti-
影像中，得見歷經危機的試煉與承諾的珍貴。 tute in Taiwan (AIT), which was established in accordance
with the TRA, has organized a special exhibition entitled
救災護航，雪中送炭 “AIT@40—US–Taiwan Relations Since 1979,” which will
tour throughout Taiwan. Every photo on display in the
特展有張「兩架直昇機起飛」的照片，其中一
exhibition evokes the deep friendship between Taiwan and
架直昇機還吊著一個小小的物件。仔細一看，直
the US over the passage of time. From these vivid images,
昇機是吊掛著一台「挖土機」。 one can see how the promises made have survived trials by
這張照片拍攝的時間是2009年8月17日。莫拉 fire as the two parties have passed through various crises.
克颱風大雨驟至，高雄縣甲仙鄉小林村因「獻肚 Help in times of trouble
山」走山，四百多人遭到土石淹沒，由於道路中 There is one photo in the exhibition that shows two heli-
斷、救援困難。8月14日台灣向美國求援，美國 copters taking off, one of which has a small object hanging
from it. When you look more closely, you see that the heli-
出動駐日本佐世保港的兩棲運輸艦「丹佛號」，
copter is lifting a backhoe excavator.
3天之後載來兩輛可以吊掛挖土機與推土機的直
The image was taken on August 17, 2009. Typhoon
昇機，直接「飛進」災區展開救援。
Morakot had brought torrential rains to Taiwan, and in
美國派遣航空母艦的例子還有1996年，台灣第 Xiaolin Village in Kaohsiung County’s Jiaxian Township
一次舉行總統直選時的台海飛彈危機。美國總統 a debris flow on Mt. Xiandu had buried more than 400
柯林頓決定派遣2艘航空母艦作戰群，航行至台 people. The roads were cut, hampering rescue efforts. On
海附近海域，實踐《台灣關係法》裡美國保障台 August 14 Taiwan appealed for help to the US, which as-
灣民主安全的承諾。中央研究院研究員林正義認 signed the amphibious transport dock USS Denver, based
at Sasebo Harbor in Japan, to head to Taiwan. Three days
為，美國護航台灣，說明《台灣關係法》具有嚇
later the two helicopters it carried, which could airlift
阻能力。
backhoes and bulldozers, flew directly into the disaster
美國對台灣的援助，從1949年國民政府撤退來 area to render assistance.
台時，就有系統地提供大量的支助。根據統計， The US dispatched aircraft carriers to assist Taiwan in
美國在1949∼1963年間提供了36億美援，用在軍 1996, during the Taiwan Strait missile crisis at the time of
事、農、工、教育等方面，從東西橫貫公路至台 Taiwan’s first-ever direct presidential election. US presid-
北市1958年通車的南京東路、從高雄加工出口區 ent Bill Clinton decided to send two US carrier battle
groups into waters near Taiwan, fulfilling the undertaking
到花蓮門諾醫院，都是運用美援完成的建設。台
in the Taiwan Relations Act that the US would resist any
灣也逐漸成長茁壯，從一個依賴援助的國家，成
form of coercion that could affect Taiwan’s security. Lin
為一個有能力提供援助的國家。
Cheng-yi, a research fellow in the Institute of European
台美斷交後，美國對台灣的協助並沒有終止。 and American Studies at the Academia Sinica, argues that
有了《台灣關係法》作為兩國交流的基礎，台美 US protection of Taiwan demonstrates that the Taiwan
之間的交流仍然頻繁且熱切。 Relations Act has a deterrent effect.
11
學術交流基金會藉由傅爾布萊特獎學金的交換計畫，
引進美國優秀人士，來台灣擔任英語教學助理計畫的
協同教學工作。（學術交流基金會提供）
Through the Fulbright scholarship program, the Foundation
for Scholarly Exchange has brought outstanding Americans
to Taiwan to work as assistant English teachers. (courtesy
of the Foundation for Scholarly Exchange)
（Fulbright ETA）的計畫。這些經由美國國務院
經費獎助，從一開始8個人，至今每年有上百名
經由美國國務院選拔來到台灣的美國青年，本著
文化交流的目的，藉由他們教學的活力與創意，
成為台灣年輕學子學習英語最好的助力。
學術交流基金會表示：「這些來到台灣的ETA
都非常熱愛台灣，覺得台灣有人情味、適合居
住，很多人回去美國，努力為台灣發聲，並邀請
家人親友來台灣。」由於留在台灣的美好回憶，
回到美國後口耳相傳，台灣也成為申請Fulbright
ETA的搶手國家。
AIT的美國資料中心2008年起，先贊助天下雜
以到美國留學為例，根據統計，從1980∼2010 誌教育基金會的「希望閱讀書車」，提供英語繪
年間，留學生逐年增加，不因台美斷交而減少。本和得獎童書。2013年起，AIT以配備大尺寸液
自從2012年台灣加入美國「免簽證計畫」後，晶螢幕、iPad、觸控電腦等設備的「數位行動書
AIT曾統計，台灣赴美人數成長超過60%。2017 車」，開進全台各地的偏鄉小學，希望藉此縮短
年有近四十七萬五千名台灣旅客造訪美國，在旅城鄉數位落差。
行觀光商品上的花費超過廿二億美元（約新台幣 AIT官員親自走進台灣各地校園，介紹美國文
680億元）。化，進行小型的科學實驗，或在寒暑假舉辦夏令
營，並且透過視訊，或是將故事裝在平板電腦
文教交流，相知相識
裡，以互動式電子繪本的方式和小朋友分享。美
台灣原本是美國「傅爾布萊特獎學金」合作的國資料中心統計，至2018年中旬，數位行動書車
國家，斷交後，雙方經過交換信件，同意1964年至少拜訪了178 學校，超過三萬五千名學童到書
4月23日簽定之「中美教育文化交換計畫協定」車閱讀美國知名作家的書、中英文繪本，在書香
繼續生效。這個在1946年由美國國會通過的「傅中認識美國文化。
爾布萊特法案」，提供獎學金，由學者、學生、
藝術家等人到雙方國家進行研究、教學、演講或創新能量，世界舞台
攻讀學位，藉此促進美國人民和世界各國人民的美國在台協會自許作為美國與台灣之間的橋
相互了解。梁，處長酈英傑曾提出，增進台灣在全球社會的角
「傅爾布萊特獎學金」除了原有的交換計色，是他2018年上任後優先要做的事項之一。AIT
畫之外，2003年開始，推動美國名校畢業的學自2016年主辦魚客松（Fishackathon）與「NASA 黑
生來台，擔任國中、小學的英語協同教學助理客松」台灣場的比賽，便是鼓舞人心的例證。

The US systematically provided a great deal of sup- has increased by over 60%. In 2017 alone nearly 475,000
port and funding to Taiwan in the years following the Taiwanese visited the US, spending more than US$2.2
ROC government’s withdrawal to Taiwan in 1949. billion (roughly NT$68 billion) on travel and tourism.
But US assistance to Taiwan by no means ceased Cultural and educational exchanges
with the break in formal diplomatic ties in 1979. With Starting in 2008, the AIT’s Information Resource
the Taiwan Relations Act as the foundation for bilateral Center sponsored the CommonWealth Education
inter actions, exchanges between Taiwan and the US Foundation’s “Read for the Future” bookmobile in
have become ever more frequent and warmhearted. providing English-language picture books and prize-
Take for example overseas study by Taiwanese in the winning children’s books to kids. Since 2013, the “Mo-
US. Statistics show that from 1980 to 2010, student num- bile American Corner,” equipped with a 60” TV, iPads,
bers grew year by year, and did not decline as a result of and touchscreen PCs, has visited primary schools in
the break in diplomatic ties. Furthermore, since Taiwan remote locations across Taiwan in hopes of narrowing
joined the US Visa Waiver Program in 2012, according to the urban–rural digital divide.
AIT figures the number of Taiwanese traveling to the US AIT officials have personally visited schools through-
out Taiwan to introduce American culture and under-
take small-scale scientific experiments, and the AIT has
also organized camps for winter or summer vacation.
Moreover, they have been able to share interactive
illustrated e-books with children by video link or by
到美國留學是許多人夢想之一，也是台美交流的重要面向，
圖為美國史丹佛大學校園一景。（莊坤儒攝） installing stories on tablet computers. The Information
Study in the US has been a dream for many people, and is an Resource Center reports that as of mid-2018, the Mobile
important facet of Taiwan–US relations. The photo was taken on
the campus of Stanford University. (photo by Chuang Kung-ju) American Corner had visited at least 178 schools, and
13
美國在台協會響應美國國務院自2014年開始舉辦賽前訓練課程，並且邀請美商，包括台灣
舉辦魚客松程式設計大賽，邀請程式開發人員 IBM、英特爾、台灣微軟等公司贊助，提供比賽
研發應用程式，提出因應海洋生態保育和漁業用的軟硬體與參賽的訓練，甚至得獎隊伍可以到
發展的解決方案，以維護海洋永續資源，因此 IBM實習。
在2016年舉辦台灣場的魚客松比賽。冠軍隊伍沒想到台灣在創新領域的能量實在無法小覷。
「誠映科技」（A k u b i c）之後參加全球比賽， 2017年台灣的冠軍隊伍「Space Bar」，進軍總決
沒有想到首度參賽，即技壓群雄，以「五大湖賽，在全球187個城市參加，共2萬5,140名參賽
救星」（Great Lakes Savior）方案拿到第3屆者、2,017項科技應用的激烈競爭中，脫穎而出，
「魚客松（Fishackathon）」大賽的世界冠軍與以解讀土石流資料的應用程式，獲得NASA黑客松
1萬美元獎金。全球「最佳概念獎」的冠軍。2018年則由台灣隊
美國在台協會得到激勵，接著再挑戰全世界 Light Wonder與Tabby Rangers一起參加世界決賽，
最大規模的黑客松競賽：「NASA黑客松」，自目前已入圍全球前5名。
2016年起拿到台灣場的舉辦權，廣邀英雄帖，美國國務院為分享在科技與創新的軟實力，位
於松菸文創園區的美國創新中心，定期免費舉辦
3D列印創新工作坊、機器人戰鬥營，以及學習虛
擬實境、人工智慧、區塊鏈等最新科技概念的課
程，今年3月起更計劃到各中學分享最新的雷射切
AIT的美國創新中心不時舉辦3D列印創新工
作坊，讓學員可以運用3D列印技術做出各種割機在物理凸輪的設計與應用。台美雙方在知識、
具設計感的作品。（林格立攝）文化、科技等方面的交流，就像《台灣關係法》立
The AIT’s American Innovation Center periodically
holds 3D printing workshops, allowing attendees 法的初衷，拉起了一縷縷友誼的絲線，緊緊地栓綁
l
to use 3D printing technology to make all kinds
of stylish-looking products. (photo by Jimmy Lin) 著雙方，隨著時代的遞嬗，亙久而堅定。

more than 35,000 students had read works of famous 美國在台協會新館外觀。
The new AIT building in Taipei.
American authors as well as illustrated books in Chi-
nese and English at the mobile library, learning about
American culture through reading.
Creative capabilities, world stage
The AIT sees itself as a bridge between the US and
Taiwan, and Brent Christensen, director of its Taipei of- prisingly strong. The 2017 Taiwan champion team,
fice, states that one of his top priorities since taking up “Space Bar,” entered the world finals, and won out
his post in 2018 has been to increase Taiwan’s role in the over a field that included 187 locations, 25,140 partici-
global community. Two examples of the AIT’s efforts to pants, and 2,017 technology applications. The team won
build mutual friendship are the Taiwan competitions NASA’s global “Best Mission Concept” award for an
that it organized for the “Fishackathon” and the “NASA app that can interpret debris flow data.
Hackathon.” In order to share the soft power of technology and
In response to the holding of the Fishackathon coding innovation, the US Department of State has arranged
competition by the US Department of State starting in for the American Innovation Center (located in Tai-
2014, the AIT invited coders to propose digital solutions pei’s Songshan Cultural and Creative Park) to regularly
for problems in marine environmental protection and hold 3D printing workshops, robot combat camps,
fisheries development, to ensure the sustainability of ma- and courses on the latest technologies, such as virtual
rine resources. In 2016 the Taiwanese start-up company reality, artificial intelligence, and blockchains, all free
Akubic won the world championship and US$10,000 at of charge. Mutual exchanges of knowledge, culture
the 3rd Fishackathon for its “Great Lakes Savior” project. and technology between Taiwan and the US are in the
Encouraged by the success of the Fishackathon, AIT original spirit of the Taiwan Relations Act, creating firm
next organized the Taiwan event of the world’s largest bonds of friendship that tie the two sides tightly to-
hackathon competition: the NASA Hackathon (a.k.a. the gether across changing times. l
NASA International Space Apps Challenge). (Esther Tseng/photos courtesy of the Information
Taiwan’s innovative capabilities proved to be sur- Resource Center, AIT/tr. by Phil Newell)
15
封面故事
從美援到世界麵包冠軍
COVER
STORY 台灣飲食風貌變更
From US Aid to Champion Bakers
—Taiwan’s Changing Dietary Culture
文‧陳群芳　圖‧林格立　版面設計‧胡如瑜
（農委會提供　courtesy of the Council of Agriculture）
你今天早餐吃什麼？燒餅油條還是漢堡三
明治？或是在便利商店匆忙買了麵包？直到
1960年代，台灣人的早餐還是以清粥或米飯
搭配簡單的菜色為主，如今卻截然不同。究
竟是誰或甚麼事件改變了台灣的飲食風貌？
讓我們來一探究竟。
W hat did you eat for breakfast this morn-

ing? Shaobing (baked sesame-seed-coated
cake), youtiao (deep-fried breadstick), or perhaps
a sandwich? Up until the 1960s, Taiwanese nor-
mally ate rice or congee for breakfast, but today
things are markedly different. Who or what was
it that changed the dietary habits of Taiwanese?
Let’s take a look.
過去台灣以農業為主，勞力密集的工作型態，
加上盛產稻米，「米飯」一直是台灣人三餐重要
的主食。對老一輩的人來說，吃飯才有飽足感，
麵食只是宵夜，或是餐與餐之間充飢的點心，但
這一切在美援之後有了變化。
1948年美國國會通過《援外法案》，將中
華民國納入美援的受惠國。法案中規定，援助
經費的10％需投入農村復興建設工作，為此中
華民國與美國共同成立了「中國農村復興聯合
委員會」（簡稱「農復會」）。此一特殊的單
台北糧食協進會執行長劉志偉不僅深諳戰後農業與
位，主導了當時美國提供的援助，對台灣農業土地改革的研究，更擅長以幽默輕鬆的文筆喚起網路
世代對農業的注意。
帶來重大影響。 Ivan Chiwei Liu, CEO of the Food Policy Research Institute,
Taipei, is not only well versed in the postwar history of agriculture
and land reform, he is also skilled at writing light and witty essays
擴大養豬規模 that draw the attention of the Internet generation to agriculture.
二次世界大戰後，美國積極出口自產的農作
物，加上當時全世界都嚮往美國的生活方式，
以美國作為現代化發展的指標，認為多吃肉能畜牧業，搭配美國提供的技術，以玉米為主的
讓身體營養、長得高大。深諳戰後農業與土地飼料及配方，讓彼此互利的策略，影響了台灣
改革研究的台北糧食協進會執行長劉志偉表養豬業的發展。
示，美國在此前提下，透過協助其他國家發展過去台灣農村的養豬型態多為儲蓄型飼養，
一戶豢養3到5頭桃園種的黑豬。此豬種的特色
是能夠忍受很差的生活條件，因此能適應農戶
以自家種的地瓜、剩飯餿水為主的飼養方式，
但也因為營養來源不穩定所以長的慢，大約需
養18個月才能發育成熟。若要作為小孩學費、
嫁妝之用大約要從一年半前開始養起，屆時才
能將豬隻賣掉換取現金。
農復會為協助農村經濟發展，擴大農戶的家
庭副業，在美國的協助下，1963年起率先在屏
東試辦綜合養豬計畫，讓農戶改養以藍瑞斯、
約克夏、杜洛克三種品種雜交的LY D白豬。若
完全以飼料作為營養來源，僅需約6個月即可成
熟，大幅縮短養育時間。
農復會指導農民搭建豬舍、提供貸款讓農民
購買豬隻與飼料，並指導農民如何將飼料搭配
地瓜使用，一步步改善養豬的環境與技術。隨
著豬種的改良與飼料配方的引進，每戶農民養
豬的數量也從試辦計畫的20頭逐漸擴大。1970
曾經台灣人的餐桌上以米飯為主。
In the past rice was the main staple on Taiwanese dinner tables.

In former times Taiwan’s economy was mainly agri-
cultural, and when you consider that it produced rice
in abundance, it’s no surprise that rice was the staple
for three meals a day. For the older generation, wheat-
based foods were only for midnight snacks or as a pick-
me-up when hungry. But all this changed after US aid
to Taiwan began.
In 1948 the US Congress passed the Foreign Assis-
tance Act, and included the Republic of China among
the countries receiving US aid. The act required 10%
of aid funds to be invested in rural reconstruction, and
to this end the ROC and US established the Joint Com-
mission on Rural Reconstruction. The JCRR guided the
use of American aid at that time and had an enormous
impact on agriculture in Taiwan.
Going hog wild for pig-raising
After World War II, the US actively exported its own
agricultural products. At that time people across the
world also saw the US as setting the standard for mod-
ern development, and believed that eating more meat
would improve nutrition and help people grow taller
and stronger. Ivan Chiwei Liu, CEO of the Food Policy
Research Institute, Taipei (FPRi), who is well versed
看著媽媽將領到的麵粉製作成饅頭和麵條，
in the postwar history of agriculture and land reform, 這種宛若變魔術般的驚喜，是曾歷經美援時期民眾的
states that the US influenced the development of the 共同記憶。（農委會提供）
Children look on as their mom transforms wheat flour distributed
hog-raising industry in Taiwan through the mutually as part of US aid into noodles and steamed buns. The sense
of delight expressed on their faces, as if they were observing a
beneficial strategy of providing technology to assist magic trick, is a shared memory for many who lived through that
other countries in developing their livestock industries era. (courtesy of the Council of Agriculture)
while supplying corn-based feed.

In the past each household in a Taiwan rural com-
mun ity would typically raise three to five Tao yuan demand, they were also of high enough quality, and
breed black pigs, feeding them on home-grown sweet produced in great enough quantity, to be exported.
potatoes and swill. But they grew very slowly, requiring Flour power
about 18 months to reach maturity. The US aid program provided financial loans, arma-
In 1963, with the assistance of the US, the JCRR ments, technical personnel, agricultural products, and
launched a trial hog-raising program in Pingtung, get- more. Of these, wheat flour bags printed in Chinese
ting farmers to switch over to “LYD” white hogs (cross- with the words “Sino-American Cooperation” are a
bred from three breeds: the Landrace, the Yorkshire, and shared memory for many people.
the Duroc). When raised entirely on feed, these animals At that time, following a suggestion by Miao Yu-
could reach maturity in just six months. shiu, founder of the Lien Hwa Industrial Corporation,
With improved hogs and the introduction of formu- Yin Chung-yung (K.Y. Yin), vice-chairman of the Taiwan
lated feeds, the number of pigs raised by each of the Production Board, negotiated with the US to directly
farming households taking part in the program rose import wheat into Taiwan rather than flour. The US not
steadily from the trial program figure of 20. Taiwan’s only gladly agreed, they also provided flour making
hog-raising industry began to flourish in the 1970s, and machinery, and flour mills opened one after another in
hogs raised in Taiwan not only could satisfy domestic Taiwan.
19
過去麵食只是農忙時期的點心，如今已成為生活日常。
（左圖莊坤儒攝）
Wheat-based foods were once just snacks consumed during
the agricultural busy season, but today they are part of daily
life. (left photo by Chuang Kung-ju)
年代起台灣養豬業開始蓬勃發展，相應的飼料須要活用才能有後續效益。於是在1962年，由農
廠、動物用藥廠也接續興起，台灣飼養的豬隻復會、美援會及台灣麵粉工業同業公會共同出資成
不僅能提供國內所需，更具備外銷的實力，在立的「台灣區麵麥食品推廣委員會」因而誕生。
1996年還曾是全球第二大豬肉出口國，為台灣在台北和台中舉辦麵食示範表演會，將水餃、小
賺進許多外匯。籠包、蔥油餅、刀削麵等麵食介紹給民眾。
經濟不那麼富裕的年代，家戶鮮少外食，街上
「麵麵」俱到
也不像現在餐館林立，讓掌管家中餐食的媽媽們
美援提供借貸資金、武器、技術人員、農產品學習麵點的製作才是比較有效的策略。所以委員
等，其中印有中美合作字樣的麵粉袋，更是許多會設立了麵麥食品巡迴講習小組，招募一批熟悉
人共同的記憶。麵食製作的女性，並將她們培訓為專業講師，
為解決戰後糧食不足，以及國民政府遷徙所帶到各機關團體教授中式麵食的製作與技巧。
來的大批人口，美援麵粉便是時代下的產物。不同於現代的付費烹飪課程，講習所需的食材
當時在聯華實業創辦人苗育秀的建議下，台灣區和工具全部由委員會支應，甚至還準備了麵板、
生產事業管理委員會副主委尹仲容向美方協調，擀麵棍，以成本價提供給參與講習的學員，讓她
改以直輸的方式進口小麥。美國除欣然同意，另們回家後有器材能實際運用。當時這些娘子軍，
提供製粉機器供台灣發展麵粉工業，許多台灣的只要有團體提出授課的申請，不論地處多偏遠，
麵粉廠也就一間間開了起來。她們都會帶著笨重的教具上山下海，走遍台灣
但台灣人的飲食向來以米飯為主，生產麵粉必各地種下麵食文化的種籽。

In 1962 the JCRR, the Council for US Aid, and the Bread and cakes become everyday foods
Taiwan Flour Mills Association collectively funded the With support from US Wheat Associates, the TWPPC
establishment of the Taiwan Wheat Products Promotion extended its interests to Western-style baked goods.
Council (TWPPC). They held demonstration events In 1966, they selected baking instructors Xu Huaqiang
for wheat-based foods, introducing boiled dumplings, and Xu Guilin to go to the American Institute of Baking
steamed dumplings, scallion pancakes, and knife-sliced for training. The following year a baking school was
noodles to the public. set up in Taipei, with the two Xus as lecturers. As well
At a time when people rarely went out to eat and as giving instruction in baking techniques, they taught
the streets were not lined with restaurants as they are the specialized knowledge they had learned in the US,
today, the most effective strategy for promoting wheat including baking theory, the chemical properties of
products was to teach mothers responsible for family ingredients, and nutritional studies.
meals to cook with wheat flour. Therefore the TWPPC At that time, the master bakers in many Western-style
set up a mobile instructional team by recruiting a group bakeries in Taiwan were graduates of the baking school
of women already familiar with making wheat-based or apprentices of graduates. Described by Ivan Liu as
foods and training them as instructors to teach the tech- the Harvard of Taiwan’s baking world, it laid down an
niques for making Chinese-style wheat products. excellent foundation for the island’s baking industry.
So long as any group put in a request for instruction, Even birthday cakes, which today are commonplace
this army of women would carry their heavy teaching in Taiwan, are the result of a course offered at the bak-
gear to any place in Taiwan, no matter how remote, to ing school by Xu Huaqiang after he went to the US in
plant the seeds of wheat-based food culture everywhere 1971 to study cake decoration. Only after this did cakes
across the island. become routine at birthday celebrations.
麵麥食品巡迴講習小組上山下海，
種下麵食文化的種籽。
（農委會提供）
The wheat foods mobile instructional
team traveled all over Taiwan to plant
the seeds of wheat food culture.
(courtesy of the Council of Agriculture)
21
在台灣，大街小巷都有麵包店的蹤影，隨時能品嚐師傅用心製作的美味麵包。
In Taiwan there are bakeries everywhere, where you can try delicious breads carefully made by master bakers.
就連現在常見的生日蛋糕，也是徐華強在1971
讓麵包與蛋糕成為日常
年赴美國學習蛋糕裝飾藝術與技巧後，在訓練班
中式麵食推廣逐漸步上軌道後，在美國小麥開設課程。才讓一個個精緻美麗的蛋糕來到台灣
協會的支持下，麵麥食品推廣委員會將觸角延伸民眾眼前，如今更成為大家慶生時的日常。
至西點麵包。1966年首先透過招考徵選了烘焙講
走出台灣的烘焙之路
師徐華強與徐貴林，並將他們送到美國烘焙學院
（American Institute of Baking）受訓。隔年成立在各界及美國的支持與努力下台灣的麵食文化
烘焙技術訓練班，由徐華強、徐桂林擔任講師，逐漸開枝散葉，如今街上麵館、麵包店林立，劉
不僅指導烘焙技術，更將習自美國的烘焙學理、志偉笑說：「台灣西點麵包店的密度，幾乎是全
原物料化學特性、營養學等專業知識紮實地傳授世界最高。」台灣人的飲食已與麵食密不可分，
給學員。隨處都能買到乾麵條，想自己下廚或上館子打牙
訓練班學員從初期以烘焙從業人員為主，1970 祭，都不是難事。就連世界麵包大賽的殿堂中，
年代起也招收國中或高中職畢業的學生，訓練課也屢屢看見台灣烘焙人才獲獎的身影。
程不僅學雜費全免，還提供食宿，5個月課程結兩年一屆的Mondial du pain世界麵包大賽，是
束後，安排學員到麵包店實習半年，並提供零用由法國一群擁有國家頒發最高榮譽工藝首獎的麵
金。當時，許多西點麵包店的師傅都是訓練班的包大師（Meilleur Ouvrier de France, MOF）組成
徒子徒孫，麵麥食品推廣委員會現已改制為中華的法國麵包大使協會所主辦。比賽進行方式是由
穀類食品工業技術研究所，劉志偉形容就像是台一位麵包師傅偕同一名22歲以下的助手，兩人在
灣烘焙界的哈佛，為台灣的烘焙產業奠定良好的八個半小時內製作14個大項目、11種口味設計，
基礎。總共150個麵包。不僅考驗技術，更是創意、體

A uniquely Taiwanese baking path
Through the support of the US and hard work by all
concerned, wheat-based food culture has taken root and
spread in Taiwan, and today the streets are lined with
noodle shops and bakeries. Master bakers from Taiwan
have also repeatedly won prizes at international bread
competitions.
The Mondial du Pain (“World Championship of
Bread”) contest is held every two years by the Am-
bassadeurs du Pain (“Ambassadors of Bread”), which
was founded by a group of master bakers in France
who had been recipients of the Meilleur Ouvrier de
France (“France’s Best Worker”) award. The contest is
conducted as follows: Each team, comprising a master
baker and an assistant aged under 22, must make a total
of 150 loaves of bread in 14 categories with 11 flavor de-
signs, within a time limit of eight-and-a-half hours. The
champion at the most recent contest, in 2017, was Chen
Yao-hsun from Taiwan.
裝飾精巧的蛋糕，自1970年代開始進入民眾生活，
In preparation for the contest, Chen scoured Tai- 為慶祝活動增添氣氛。（外交部資料）
wan for bread-making ingredients with special local Elaborately decorated cakes began to become a part of
people’s lives in the 1970s, adding to the festive atmosphere of
characteristics. Taiwan has a rich variety of agricultural celebratory events. (MOFA file photo)
世界麵包冠軍陳耀訓以職人精神做出一個個美味
可口的麵包。
Chen Yao-hsun, winner of the Mondial du Pain competition, makes
all kinds of delicious breads in the spirit of a craftsman.
produce, including sweet and delicious fruit throughout

the year, and first-rate fruit drying technology. There are
many unique products, such as djulis (Chenopodium for-
mosanum), a.k.a. red quinoa, which is native to Taiwan
and is closely related to quinoa. After a long process of
development Chen utilized ingredients such as aromatic
litsea (Litsea cubeba), pineapple, and dried Dahu straw-
berries to create breads that dazzled the jury, winning
the title against teams from 17 other countries. Chen
says that during the competition, through his design
concepts he aimed not only to allow the world to see Tai-
wan’s strong abilities in baking, but also to bring unique
agricultural products from Taiwan onto the world stage.
Chen states that Taiwan’s advantages lie in its rich
diversity of produce and its creative capabilities. In
recent years the skills of master bakers in Taiwan have
progressed, and they are able to make soft, delicious
bread from natural ingredients without relying on
23
力與默契的展現。協會以宣導烘焙文化與傳承為開心而且安心。為此陳耀訓接受便利超商邀請，
宗旨，麵包師傅不光技術要好，更要為產業栽培開發幾款強調「真食材、無添加」的麵包，讓超
後進，所以不論獲獎與否，每人一生只能參賽一商也朝不使用食品添加物邁進，「好的麵包越多
次。最近一屆的冠軍，正是來自台灣的陳耀訓。人做，才會影響消費者，進而影響整個產業。」
為了參加比賽，陳耀訓走訪全台，尋找適合作陳耀訓期盼地說。
為國家特色麵包的食材。台灣物產豐饒，四季都過去台灣總是向歐美、日本學習烘焙技術，陳
有滋味甜美的水果，且果乾製作技術一流；更有耀訓自己也曾前往日本拜師，深切感受日本的職
許多特色物產，如台灣原生紅藜、部落野生馬告人精神。去年陳耀訓受日本熊本製粉之邀，不僅
等。經過不斷研發設計，陳耀訓以馬告、鳳梨、成為該品牌第一位海外聯名的烘焙師，麵粉外包
大湖草莓乾等，製作出一款款令評審驚艷的麵裝都印有「陳耀訓使用」字樣，還前往日本舉辦
包，從來自德國、法國、日本、荷蘭等18個國家講習會，無疑是對台灣烘焙技術的一種肯定。
中贏得冠軍。陳耀訓表示，比賽時透過設計理念今年陳耀訓也獲邀擔任丹麥奶油品牌的代言
的訴說，不只讓國際看見台灣烘焙的實力，更將人，將帶著台灣的烘焙技術與農特產前往菲律
台灣的農特產帶到世界的舞台。賓、馬來西亞、新加坡、越南等國家展示，一同
對於台灣連續兩屆獲得世界麵包大賽冠軍，陳開拓亞洲市場。
耀訓表示，台灣豐富的物產與創新的能力是我們因為有前人的努力，美援的物資與技術改變了
的優勢。近年來台灣麵包師傅的技術進步，憑著台灣飲食的風貌。如今仰賴進口小麥的台灣，卻
天然的食材，不用靠食品添加物依然能做出鬆軟有著令世界驚豔的烘焙人才，台灣的農特產也將
可口的麵包。師傅們也更用心製作具有特色的麵伴隨著麵包走向世界，用多元的飲食文化征服眾
包，研發融入在地食材的口味，希望讓民眾吃得人的味蕾。 l
台灣物產豐富、人才創意無限，將習自國外的烘焙技術發揚光大，孕育出許多如陳耀訓（右3）的世界麵包冠軍。
右圖為陳耀訓於比賽現場驚豔國際之作「祥獅獻瑞」。（陳耀訓提供）
Taiwan is rich in farm produce and is home to unlimited talent and creativity. By building on baking skills learned from abroad, Taiwan
has nurtured many master bakers such as Chen Yao-hsun (left photo, third from right). The right-hand photo shows the work, based on
the traditional Chinese Lion Dance, that won a worldwide award for Chen. (courtesy of Chen Yao-hsun)

在台美雙方共同推展下，如今我們的生活已與麵食密不可分。（農委會提供）
Thanks to bilateral efforts by the US and Taiwan, today wheat-based foods are an inseparable
part of our lives. (courtesy of the Council of Agriculture)
additives. Bakers have been studying how to integrate This was undoubtedly a vote of confidence in the level of
local ingredients into their bread, so that customers baking skills in Taiwan.
can eat with enjoyment and peace of mind. To this end This year Chen was also invited by a Danish butter
Chen accepted an invitation from a convenience store company to be its spokesperson. He will bring Taiwanese
chain to produce several breads that emphasize “genu- baking techniques and agricultural produce to do demon-
ine ingredients, no additives,” thus helping the chain to strations in the Philippines, Malaysia, Singapore, Viet-
move away from using food additives. “The only way nam, and elsewhere, thereby developing Asian markets.
to influence consumers is for more people to make good With the hard work of our forebears, the material and
bread, and this in turn will affect the entire industry,” technical aid provided by the US changed Taiwan’s diet-
says Chen, looking to the future. ary habits. Today Taiwan, though it relies on imports for
In the past Taiwan has learned baking techniques its wheat, possesses talented bakers who have dazzled
from Europe, North America, and Japan. Last year the world, and special agricultural products from Taiwan
Chen Yao-hsun accepted an offer from Japan’s Kuma- have also been made known around the globe through
moto Flour Milling Company to have his name appear bread. Taiwan’s diverse dietary culture has something to
on their products, not only becoming the first overseas please every palate. l
baker to enter into this kind of arrangement with the (Chen Chun-fang/photos by Jimmy Lin/
company, but even going to Japan to deliver lectures. tr. by Phil Newell)
25
封面故事
素樸與新意
COVER
STORY 走讀台灣第一代現代建築
Straightforward Yet Innovative:
Taiwan’s First Modernist Buildings
文•蘇俐穎　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•王敬勛
歷史建築，越老的才越有價值？那可不一定。
除了中國傳統的宮廟、庭園，或者日治時期的官方建築、木造宿
舍，大多數人並不知道，在二戰以後的台灣，還有著一批因著美援
留下的歷史建物，就隱身在你我身邊。
1951∼1965年之間，每年高達1億美元的資金流入台灣，這一項結
合了經濟資助、技術支援、教育目的的行動，扭轉了台灣的命運。隨
著這一段短暫歲月的終結，人事多已飛灰湮滅，當人們逐漸淡忘，唯
獨少數存續至今的建築，為我們揭開了回首往昔時光的一扇窗。
M ust buildings be old to have historical significance? Not necessar-

ily. Few people realize that in addition to Taiwan’s traditional
Chinese-style temples and gardens and its Japanese-era government
buildings and wooden homes, our island is also home to historically
interesting structures built after World War II with US aid.
Taiwan received roughly US$100 million per year from the United States
during the period from 1951 to 1965. This financial aid, technical support,
and educational assistance helped change Taiwan’s developmental traject
ory. With the end of this period, the personnel involved departed and local
residents began to forget their legacy. These days, only a few buildings re
main to offer us a window into this portion of our past.

陽明山美軍宿舍群。
Former American military housing on Yangmingshan.
27
因此在第一排建築後方所擴建的，不少便是美
特點1：近在身邊，卻又難以察覺
援時期的作品。
細細數算美援時代遺留下的建築，數量還真而美援建築不僅來自於官方，由於台美交流密
不少。切，民間也有經費透過教會系統流入台灣，好比
根據2016年文化部「美援相關之建築文化資東海大學最早便是經由「美國亞洲基督教高等教
產評估計畫」的報告指出，美援時期以貸款、育聯合董事會」在台創校辦學。
基金等不同形式所興建的硬體建設，總數高達甚至是台北的民生社區，最早便是向美方貸
五百多筆，這些建築主要包含軍事設施、工廠廠款，參考美國社區規劃的集合式住宅；或者延續日
房、辦公大樓、學校建築等不同類型，型態相人的工事，由美方接續完成的西螺大橋，橋梁上至
當多元。今仍有「中美合作」的鋼印；也有軼聞，公館旁的
以台大為例，多數人對台大的第一印象，便蟾蜍山，由於過去便是軍事重地，聚落的居民便曾
是椰林大道兩側的日治時期建築，不過，因著經撿拾美援建設剩餘的物資，在此自力造屋⋯⋯。
是第一學府，來自美方的經費自然相當充沛，美援建築的踪跡，稱得上是俯拾皆是。
美援時期所流行的現代主義建築雖以極簡為本，但建築師仍會交通大學竹銘館外牆上的紀念牌，正是貨真價實的
在少數細節費盡心思作修飾，展現出幾何線條變化的美感。時代證據。
The modernist architecture typical of the US aid period was built This commemorative plaque on the wall of National
around the idea of simplicity, but architects sometimes added Chiao Tung University’s Chu Ming Building is an
decorative touches such as varied geometric features. authentic testament to the period of American aid.

存在，除此之外，便是日式的木造宿舍，
特點2：看似平凡，卻有脈絡可循
或者磚造房屋與傳統的土角厝；此時，格
既然美援建築如此多，為什麼並沒有受大眾注意？局方整、外觀簡潔，甚至帶有幾何造型交
首先，由於不如日本的威權政府統一把持建築風格，織變化的現代建築，突然出現⋯⋯。
再加上美援主要以經濟效益、功能性作考量，造成當時台灣現代建築的新頁，正由此揭幕。
的建築並沒有顯著、統一性的美學表徵。
但對於台灣建築史來說，美援的意義卻相當深遠。美方
帶來的豐沛資金，為當時台灣第一代的建築師提供了不少
大展身手的機會，他們運用從西方學習到的建築專業，不
僅深受現代主義精神的啟發，同時在營造技術與建材應用
穿越綠影斑斑的台大校園，美援遺痕在戰後建築專
上受美方影響，如預力混凝土技術與空心磚建材。
家謝明達的解說之下逐一現形。
想像一下彼時的台灣，戰爭剛結束，物資相當貧瘠， Hsieh Ming-ta, an expert in post-WWII architecture,
points out US-aid-period structures dotting the green
地表上除了日本人所留下來的大型官方建築一枝獨秀地 National Taiwan University campus.
Hidden in plain sight

Though only a few of the many buildings constructed during
this period still stand to offer us a window into the past, there
are more than you might think.
According to the Ministry of Culture’s 2016 “Assessment of
USAidRelated Architectural Cultural Assets,” more than 500
structures built during the period with some form of assistance
from the US still remain. These include military facilities, fact
ories, office buildings, and schools.
If there are so many of these buildings, why don’t people no
tice them?
First, the buildings don’t have a uniform style like that
imposed by the Japanese administration. They also lack any
obviously American symbols, because US aid focused on func
tionality and cost effectiveness.
But American aid nonetheless had a profound impact on the
history of Taiwanese architecture. American capital offered Tai
wan’s first generation of architects numerous opportunities to
showcase their skills. They took advantage of them by applying
the modernist influences they had picked up while studying
Western architecture, and they were also influenced by Amer
ican practices in terms of construction technologies and mater
ials, such the use of cinder blocks and prestressed concrete.
Imagine the Taiwan of those days for a moment: World War II
had just ended, goods were in short supply, and the extant archi
tecture consisted primarily of large Japanese government build
ings, Japanesestyle wooden homes, and mudbrick structures.
And then these sharply regular, geometrically shaped modernist
buildings with plain exteriors suddenly began popping up….
The period marked the start of modern architecture in Taiwan.
29
黑膠文化復興基地
A base for a vinyl renaissance
陽明山 ‧美軍俱樂部
Yangmingshan: US Military Club
沈祖海╱1968年 Haigo T.H. Shen, 1968
由於台北市文化局所推動的「老房子文化運這幢房子，最早由曾擔任美軍顧問團顧問工程
動」，接下修復任務的黃巢設計工務店負責人黃師沈祖海所興建，因著歷經不同時期的擴建、改
建華，座右銘是：「設計是因為人而存在，不是建，建築體融合了木、磚、鋼、R C（鋼筋混凝
為了思想而存在的。」因為這個正確的判斷，讓土）等四種類型，針對繁複的設計，建築團隊一
原本將近頹圮的老屋，成功重燃起復興的火把。點也不敢馬虎，特地找來老師傅運用楯接、鐵件
就座落在草山山腰上，被217戶俗稱「阿督仔的傳統工法，將破敗的屋頂重新修復；黃建華設
厝」的美軍宿舍所簇擁的美軍俱樂部，浩浩蕩蕩計了落地的格子鋁窗，呼應著美國南方鄉村建築
地擁有約900坪的廣闊佔地，挑高的ㄇ字型紅磚的風格；最特別的則屬屋頂的瓦片，生產的窯廠
建物，在過去還擁有一座深達3公尺的露天標準雖然早已收起，但在廠商的倉庫中居然還保存著
泳池，如今搖身一變，成為複合了餐飲、展覽、數千片當時沒賣掉的陶製雙溝瓦，因著窯變的緣
表演、黑膠典藏的多功能空間。故，雖不如現在的產品顏色一致，反而有金橘、
黃建華說，提案期間，他反覆聆聽著英文老黃橙、石榴紅等漸層色澤相互錯落，一如歷史層
歌，想像著在戰爭的年代，美國人在交誼空間裡層疊加的痕跡。
唱歌、跳舞、迎接新年的場景，巧妙的是，承包這幢建築先後奪得倫敦設計獎、台灣建築獎、
案子的業主錸德科技，也是台灣最早製作黑膠唱金點設計獎等大獎，但對黃建華來說，獎項只是
片的公司，這個巧合，讓他將音樂的元素融入空錦上添花，最令他得意的是，能看見老空間恢復
間規劃的企劃。活力，遊客接踵造訪的盛況。

（上圖）與黑膠產業淵源甚深的錸德科技，除了斥資修復成功修復、活化美軍俱樂部，黃建華說這是天時、地利與
老空間，也將企業收藏的黑膠文物融入其中。人合，這樣意義獨具的基地難再遇見。
(top) The Ritek Group, which has a long history with vinyl Huang Chien-hwa, who led the renovation of the former US
records, not only provided financial support for the renovation of military club, says that everything came together at the right time
Brick Yard 33⅓, but also moved part of its record collection there. to enable the transformation of such a uniquely significant site.
（下圖）昔日作為泳池畔的休息區，經過整理、粉刷， Brick Yard 33⅓, with dining, drinking, exhibition, and per
成為造型優雅，供遊人休憩的座椅。
(above) Renovations have turned this poolside patio into an
formance spaces, as well as a large vinyl record collection.
elegant-looking space for visitors to relax. Originally built by Haigo T.H. Shen, then a consul
tant with the US military’s advisory group, the club was
expanded and refurbished at various times in a variety
of materials, including wood, brick, steel and reinforced
Huang Chienhwa has a motto: “Design exists for peo concrete. Faced with such a complicated design, the
ple, not for ideas.” When his company, HC Space Design, renova tion team brought in craftsmen to teach them
renovated the US military club on Yangmingshan as part traditional construction techniques, and help them restore
of the Taipei City Department of Cultural Affairs’ Old the roof. Huang chose to incorporate aluminumframed
House 2.0 project, the principle helped them to success French windows to echo the architectural style of the
fully restore the dilapidated club to its former glory. American South. Interestingly, Huang and his team also
Located partway up Yangmingshan and known to the found a cache of unsold doublegrooved tiles of the kind
217 local households as the “a-tok-á house” (Taiwanese for originally used on the roof, even though the manufac
“Caucasian”), the club that served the US military families turer had long gone out of business, and used them to
who lived in the area was a highceilinged brick structure restore the roof. Unlike modern tiles, these old tiles vary
covering nearly 3,000 square meters and possessed of a in color from kumquatorange to yelloworange and on to
threemeterdeep outdoor swimming pool. The renova pomegranate, their gradual progression of hues suggest
tions turned it into a multipurpose building, renamed ing the passage of history.
31
台灣大學 ‧第一學生活動中心
NTU: First Student Activity Center
王大閎╱1961年 Wang Da-hong, 1961
現代建築裡的
東方符碼
Oriental motifs in a
modernist building
台灣戰後第一代建築師翹楚的王大閎，除了經
手國父紀念館、外交部大樓等知名的公共建築，
在台大校園內也有許多遺作。王大閎的特色在於
以現代主義風格融合中國傳統建築的元素，以第
一學生活動中心為例，空間以九宮矩陣作為基
礎，折線的屋頂、安置在入口處的透空樓梯，均
是現代主義的常見手法；然而，更多的是令人備
感熟稔的中式建築手法，如細長比例的紅門、仿
擬傳統木門窗的格狀窗框、入口處的罩壁與戶外
的迴廊⋯⋯東方與西方的折衝與融合，構築出彼
時建築師心目中的台灣建築表情。
An outstanding talent among Taiwan’s first postwar

generation of architects, Wang Dahong’s forte was
mixing traditionally Chinese elements into works in a
modernist style. In the case of National Taiwan Univer
sity’s First Student Activity Center, he based the space
on the “nine palace” (a 3x3 grid) to which he added the
modernist elements of a broken roof line and exposed
steps approaching the entrance. Other familiar Chinese
style elements include tall, narrow red doors, wooden
window frames, a partition just inside the entrance, and
a veranda around the exterior. This blending of Eastern
and Western styles helped establish a vision for Taiwan
ese architecture in the minds of the architects of the day.

幾何線條變化之美
Geometric beauty
台灣大學 ‧農業陳列館（洞洞館）
NTU: Agricultural Exhibition Hall
虞曰鎮、張肇康╱1963年
Yu Yueh-chen, Chang Chao-kang, 1963
上個世紀的中葉，美國中西部地區流行著 In the middle of the last century, openwork cement

鏤空水泥花磚的建築設計，傳統的閩南式建 panels became popular in the American Midwest. The
fact that traditional SouthernFujianesestyle architecture
築向來常運用到鏤空花磚的裝飾技法，當這
also makes use of decorative openwork provided local
股風潮吹到台灣，本土建築師似乎也能心領
architects with an intuitive grasp of the American style
神會，因此，鏤空花磚砌成的水泥牆，便成
when it arrived in Taiwan. This led to openwork panels
了美援時期建築的重點特色。 in concrete walls becoming a distinctive feature of local
又被稱作「洞洞館」的農業陳列館，便是 architecture during the US aid period.
以水泥牆體上嵌入的琉璃瓦筒而得名，在偌 National Taiwan University’s Agricultural Exhibition
大的校園裡仍相當醒目。這幢建築已被列入 Hall, also known as “Dongdong Guan” (“Hall of Holes”),
「有形文化資產」，並不無道理，許多細膩 is famous for the ceramic tubes that pierce the concrete
walls of its facade, making it one of the most eyecatching
之處，表現出建築師既不想失去現代主義務
buildings on the large campus. The building has been
求簡潔的精神，同時又在極有限的空間裡展
designated a tangible cultural asset with good reason.
現出創意發揮的最大值。好比1樓外牆的磁磚 The first floor’s tile siding emulates a traditional red brick
貼皮，仿擬傳統紅磚牆的修砌方式，但在底 wall. The top and bottom rows of tile are laid vertically,
部與頂部採取豎砌；在迴廊最外側的斬石子 while those in between are horizontal. The facing of the
鋪面上的分割線，則對齊了柱子的分割線； bare concrete plinth supporting the veranda is marked
又或者室內的兩支樓梯，一支採迴旋式、一 with thin vertical lines that align with the columns behind.
The geometric details extend even to the two interior
支則是常見的折梯，細節講究，處處都充滿
stairways, one of which makes a spiral, while the other is
了幾何線條變化的趣味。
straight, their contrasting lines creating visual interest.
33
台灣大學 ‧舊體育館
NTU: The Old Gym
楊卓成╱1962年 Yang Cho-cheng, 1962
大量使用空心磚建材
A cinder-block structure
素樸的舊體育館，處處可見美援時期建築的 Like other USaidperiod buildings, the Old Gym
細節。 is boxlike in its construction. The gym is largely con

structed from cinder blocks, and its front features a
狹長猶如方盒的建築體，恰是美援時期建築的
facade of the openwork cement panels common in
常見樣式，除了常見的水泥花磚裝飾，裝飾在牆
the period. Architect Hsieh Mingta, a lecturer in the
面上，建材上，更大量使用了空心磚作為建材。 Department of Architecture at Tamkang University,
淡江大學建築系兼任講師謝明達為我們解釋，空 explains that cinder blocks have many advantages over
心磚相較於傳統的紅磚，容易製作許多，除了 traditional bricks. They can be produced more quickly
製作時程短、成品的良率高，製成7天後即可使 and easily, have a lower defect rate, can be used just
用，28天便可達到設計所需的抗壓強度；另外， seven days after being produced, and reach their design
strength in 28 days, enabling buildings to be erected
於空心磚的體積相較大塊，也容易對齊，因此施
with new blocks at a pace of one story per month. In
工上也較容易。彼時正是台灣大興土木的時期，
addition, their large size makes them easy to align and
紅磚一時供不應求，因此在美國人的建議之下，
therefore easier to build with. The fact that traditional
不少建設均採用空心磚。 bricks were in short supply during this period’s build
ing boom gave American advisers still another reason to
recommend the use of cinder blocks on many projects.

台灣大學 ‧藝文中心（雅頌坊）
NTU: Center for the Arts (the Odeum)
1963年
駐台美軍禮拜堂
An American military
church
台大校園境內另有一美援遺跡，就在管理學院與第二學生活動中心之
間，這是昔日的駐台美軍空軍基地的台北通訊站（Taipei Air Station），
如今我們仍可以看到被拆除的圍牆所遺留下的外緣線。
今日的台大幼稚園，在過去便是修車廠，因此不同於一般建築的規
格，倉庫需要的是挑高設計；不遠處舉辦許多藝文活動的雅頌坊，正面
是不規則五角形，猶如蛋糕盒一般，這個小巧的空間，昔日正是為駐台
美軍所建的教堂，如今則將牧師佈道的講堂翻轉為小型表演廳，稱得上
是今昔呼應。
The NTU campus holds yet another relic from the American aid period. The area
between the School of Management and the Second Student Activity Center once held
the Taipei Air Station, a US Air Force communications center. Traces of the wall that
used to encircle the compound are still visible today.
In those days, the presentday NTU Preschool served as the station’s vehicle repair
depot. The nearby Odeum is distinguished by an elongated pentagonal face that makes
it look like a cake box. Once a church for military personnel, the Odeum’s former nave
has been converted into a performance space that hosts a variety of cultural events.
35
交通大學 ‧竹銘館
NCTU: Chu Ming Building
盧毓駿╱1960年 Lu Yu-chun, 1960
融合漢代建築裝飾元素
Han-Dynasty decorative elements
交大在台最早復校的博愛校區，境內處處可見 The Bo’ai Campus, National Chiao Tung University’s
美援時代的遺痕。穿過入口的牌坊，首先映入眼簾 earliest location in Taiwan, contains numerous traces of
the American aid period. One of the first things visitors
的生物科技系館，即是由操刀南海學園科學館的同
see on walking through the gate is the College of Bio
一位建築師──盧毓駿所設計的。這座看似簡單、
logical Science and Technology’s Chu Ming Building,
素樸的白色建築，運用許多中國傳統的裝飾元素，
designed by Lu Yuchen, the architect behind the Nan
好比入口門廊上方的欄杆，三叉戟造型的斗拱，即 hai Academy. This simple, white structure incorporates
是源於漢代的「人字補間」；屋頂上方的圍欄，鏤 numerous decorative elements drawn from Chinese
空的裝飾是「華」字的局部，這是當時深受建築界 tradition. The include the trident shapes in the parapet
喜愛的裝飾符碼，好比台灣建築學會、成功大學建 above the main entrance, which suggest the interlocking
築系等，都採用此字作為logo，字的造型同樣源於 brackets of traditional Chinese architecture, and have
their origins in the Han Dynasty. A plaque to the left of
斗拱。另外，大門口左側仍可見到書寫著「美援」
the main entrance, reading “American Aid,” offers a vi
的紀念牌，更是時代的鐵證。
sual testament to the period in which it was constructed.

科學教育先鋒
Pioneering science education
清華大學 ‧原科中心反應器
NTHU: Nuclear Science and Technology Development Center
張昌華╱1958年 Chang Chang-hwa, 1958
由於美國人致力提升台人的科學知識水平， The US worked hard to upgrade Taiwan’s scien

為了因應教學需求，在校園內興建了不少科學教 tific and technological standards during the American
aid period, and encouraged the construction of many
室，尤其目前仍坐落於清華大學的原子科學技術
scientific classrooms to facilitate science education. The
發展中心，連同裡頭罕見的核子反應器，這個兼
Nuclear Science and Technology Development Center,
顧教學與研究的場址，同樣可溯源至美援時代。
an educational and research facility at National Tsing
這幢建築由清大土木系的校友張昌華操刀，歷經 Hua University, traces its roots to this period and even
一甲子歲月，至今仍穩若磐石。除了教學場域， has its own nuclear reactor. Designed by Chang Chang
為了因應是時學生人數不斷成長，學生宿舍也一 hwa, an alumnus of the Department of Civil Engineer
併興建，在原科中心鄰近的明齋，同樣由張昌華 ing at the old Tsinghua University in mainland China,
所設計。 l the nearly 60yearold building is still as solid as a rock.
Chang also designed the nearby con temporan eous
student dormitories, which were necessary to meet the
housing needs of a growing student body. l
(Lynn Su/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
tr. by Scott Williams)
37
封面故事
台美文化交流的橋梁
COVER
STORY ICRT，40週年
ICRT──台北國際社區廣播電台，台灣唯一
的英語廣播電台，40年前，在外交歷史的風暴中
誕生。40年來，在整點英語新聞、路況與天氣預
報的放送下，陪伴中外聽友走過風雨，了解國家
大事；不同時段、多元的西洋流行音樂節目，美
式風格的頻道，豐富人們心靈與文化。
「This is I∼C∼R∼T，FM100⋯⋯。」台北國
際社區廣播電台（以下簡稱「ICRT」）耳熟能詳
的台呼，放送著「紅髮艾德」（Ed Sheeran）的
〈Castle On The Hill〉，台灣將是他4月亞洲巡迴
演唱會的首站，這首歌以輕快搖滾節奏，唱出了
人們的年少輕狂，唱遍了回憶的甜蜜美好，就像
ICRT，陪伴外僑與民眾度過輕鬆與歡樂時光。
I nternational Community Radio Taipei—bet-

ter known as ICRT—is Taiwan’s only English-
language radio station. It was founded 40 years
ago at a pivotal moment in the nation’s diplomatic
history. For four decades, it has been issuing news
updates on the hour, as well as weather and traffic
reports, helping Taiwanese and foreigners alike to
understand major international events and prepare to
go out and about. The American-style station, which
also broadcasts a variety of Western pop music, has
enriched Taiwan’s culture and nurtured people’s souls.
“This is ICRT, FM 100.” The station’s tag line is ICRT總經理Tim Berge強調ICRT扮演服務在台外僑、

voiced before playing “Castle on the Hill” by Ed 中西文化交流的使命。（林格立攝）
Tim Berge, ICRT’s general manager, stresses the station’s
Sheeran, who is visiting Taiwan on his April tour. To a mission of serving expats and promoting cultural exchange
rocking beat, “Redhead Ed” sings of sweet memories of between Taiwan and the West. (photo by Jimmy Lin)

Cultural Bridge to America
—ICRT Celebrates Four Decades
文•曾蘭淑　圖•ICRT提供　版面設計•蕭郢岑
我是圖說我是圖說我是圖說我是
圖說我是圖說我是圖說我是圖說
我是圖說我是圖說我是圖說。
Glass art created with recycled glass
embodies the ideals of environmental
friendliness and sustainable
resources that Spring Pool has held
to for the last 50 years.
39
經常佔據告示榜披頭四的〈順其自然〉（Let It
台美關係動盪的產物
Be），以及唐．麥克林（Don McLean）的〈美
I C RT的前身是「美軍電台」（全名為「駐台國派〉（American Pie），這些民謠、搖滾「美
美軍廣播電台」，Armed Forces Network Taiwan, 聲」，在當時戒嚴的氛圍中，也成為台灣年輕人
AFNT），當時美軍大量增援越戰，台灣成為東南尋求自由與夢想的另一片天空。
亞重要的戰略據點，數以千計的美軍駐紮台灣， 1979年元旦，美國政府與中華民國政府終止外
因應美軍與其眷屬的需要，設立了美軍電台。交關係，美軍電台也準備停播，因為按照正常作
一位美國空軍的女兒陶派特（Pat Torguson）曾業的程序，美軍必須把所有播音設備運回美國。
回憶，因為八二三炮戰的攻擊，台南空軍基地總當時美國海軍上將James Linder隨即說服美國政
是處於警戒狀態，必須隨時注意收聽美軍電台的府，以象徵性的「一元美金」，將所有的設備交
廣播。她清晰地記得，每當電台播報員的聲音說給中華民國政府，再轉租給ICRT。
道：「嗆辣椒！我再說一遍，嗆辣椒！」這個暗尤其是美僑商會會長羅伯・派克（R o b e r t P.
號警報，讓她的父親不發一語，立刻站起，迅速 Parker）大力奔走，得到當時總統蔣經國與行政
換上軍服，離開家前往基地。院長孫運璿的支持，指示新聞局長宋楚瑜協助解
美軍電台是駐台美軍、外僑與眷屬收聽新聞決執照、電波等問題，並給予經費補助，匯集美
與西洋流行歌曲的唯一管道。不只外僑，當美軍僑商會與台灣企業界的1,500萬元資金，成立了
電台獨家放送著貓王藍調、鄉村搖滾的新專輯，「台北國際社區文化基金會」來運作ICRT。
ICRT從2009年起舉辦自行車日，至今第10年，DJ與聽友一起騎自行車互動。
ICRT has been organizing its annual Bike Day since 2009. For ten years, listeners and DJs have been riding together.

youth, helping both expats and locals to pass the day in
easygoing contentment—not unlike ICRT itself.
A fruit of changing US–Taiwan relations
ICRT’s forerunner was a US military station: Armed
Forces Network Taiwan.
Pat Torguson, daughter of an American airman, recalls
that as a result of the shelling of Kinmen (Quemoy) by the
PRC that began on August 23, 1958, the US Air Force base
in Tainan was in a continuous state of high alert, and its
personnel had to pay constant attention to AFNT broad-
casts. She remembers that each time one of the station’s
broadcasters said, “The pepper is hot. I say again, the pep-
per is hot,” her father would, without uttering a word, get
up, put on his uniform and promptly leave for the base.
AFNT was the sole channel for American military and
foreign diplomats, as well as their families, to hear West-
ern popular music. And it wasn’t just foreigners: Whether
for blues-inflected rock music by Elvis Presley, “Let It Be”
by the chart-topping Beatles, or “American Pie” by Don
McLean, AFNT was also where young Taiwanese tuned
their dials during the martial-law era when searching for
freedom and dreaming of distant places. 美僑商會前會長R o b e r t P. P a r k e r（右）大力奔走，促成
On New Year ’s Day in 1979, the US and the ROC ICRT的誕生，圖為Robert P. Parker與當時擔任台北市長的
李登輝合影。
broke off diplomatic relations, and the station prepared Robert P. Parker (right), former chairman of the American
to cease broadcasting. According to standard procedures, Chamber of Commerce in Taipei, put much time and energy into
launching ICRT. The photo shows him with Taipei mayor Lee
the US military was expected to ship all broadcasting Teng-hui, who would later become ROC president.
ICRT電台舉辦感恩節餐會，
將感恩節文化介紹給聽友。
ICRT holds a Thanksgiving
Day banquet to introduce the
culture of Thanksgiving Day
to listeners.
41
1979 年 4 月 16 日午夜前，在中華民國與美國
國歌的樂聲中，結束了「美軍電台」。緊接著
午夜12點，羅伯．派克宣布：「ICRT is on the
air」，台北國際社區廣播電台正式開播，「無縫
接軌」，一秒都不間斷地接續播音。ICRT前台長
朱友龍說：「ICRT是台美斷交這一段外交歷史上
最直接的產物。」
即時新聞，播報不間斷
ICRT克服了台美斷交這段歷史的波折，得以非
營利性組織的方式，以新聞、西洋流行音樂的聲 DJ們為節目的廣告配音。（林格立攝）
A DJ lends his voice to a programming ad. (photo by Jimmy Lin)
波，串流起台美文化交流的使命。
ICRT總經理Tim Berge早期在ICRT負責製播新
聞與路況，他指出：「我們在國際與體育新聞的活動，ICRT扮演了重要媒體聯絡的角色，尤其
的即時性，常成為其他媒體的消息來源。常是是每當美國舉行重要總統與國會選舉，ICRT不忘
剛收到國際通訊社的外電，立即轉化為口語化提醒美僑記得在截止日進行通訊投票。
的新聞播出。」例如他還記得1992年曾播出老特別在是天氣預報與路況播報，更是在台外
布希總統（George H.W. Bush）訪日，因身體不籍人士重要的消息來源。2001年納莉颱風將大
適，突然吐在日本首相宮澤喜一身上的新聞，台北地區變成一片汪洋，捷運板南線因此停駛3
不僅是全台最先披露的媒體，還接到電視台詢個月。能說一口流利中文的總經理Tim Berge回
問此新聞的電話。憶：「那時我們與中國廣播公司同在中廣松江
縱使現在網路媒體如此普及，ICRT仍肩負著服大樓，所有的機器全部泡在水裡，中廣因此停
務在台外僑、中西文化交流的使命。舉凡美國在播一天，可是I C RT停播不到一個小時。因為當
台協會，美國、歐洲與加拿大等商會與外僑學校時I C RT總經理趕緊跑到陽明山發射台，用一個
「大衛王」王再得（右一）
曾是ICRT的傳奇主持人。
David Wang (right) was a
renowned ICRT program
host.

equipment back to the United States. Admiral James were very timely in reporting international and sports
Linder, the last commander of the US Taiwan Defense news and were often a news source for other media,”
Command, convinced the US government to “sell” the he notes. For instance, he recalls reporting on George
equipment for a symbolic US$1 to the ROC government, H.W. Bush’s trip to Japan, describing how the US presi-
which then leased it to ICRT. dent grew ill and suddenly vomited on Japanese prime
Shortly before midnight on April 16, 1979, to the minister Kiichi Miyazawa’s lap. Not only was Berge the
sound of the national anthems of the United States and first to report on the news in Taiwan, he even took calls
the Republic of China, AFNT ceased broadcasting. Then, from television stations inquiring about the incident.
right at midnight, Robert P. Parker, chairman of the Amer- Even now, when Internet media can be accessed al-
ican Chamber of Commerce in Taipei, announced, “ICRT most anywhere, ICRT is still holding firm to its mission
is on the air.” It has continued to broadcast ever since. of serving foreigners in Taiwan and fostering cultural
Timely news, uninterrupted service exchange with the West. During the run-up to import-
ICRT helped to dampen the shock associated with the ant international elections, such as US presidential elec-
breaking of diplomatic relations. Adopting a non-profit tions, ICRT reminds foreign residents to send in their
status, the station began broadcasting news in English as absentee ballots.
well as playing Western pop music, bearing a mission to For foreigners in Taiwan, the station’s weather and
promote US–Taiwan cultural exchange. traffic reports are also important sources of information.
ICRT’s general manager Tim Berge started out broad- In 2001, when Typhoon Nari hit Greater Taipei hard, the
casting news and traffic reports at the station. “We Blue (Bannan) Line of the MRT was flooded and put out
走出錄音室，在台北市天母「搞什麼鬼」萬聖節活動現場轉播現場實況。
Having left the studio for the IRCT Halloween party in Tianmu, DJs keep listeners informed of the latest goings-on there.
43
ICRT舉辦「樂團大競技」，讓國內外優秀的獨立樂團和音樂創作者有「被聽見」的平台。
ICRT’s “Battle of the Bands” gives exposure to independent bands and musical artists, both local and foreign.
C D播放機插著發射台的機器，開始做節目。」主持人，是I C RT的傳奇人物，也是許多聽眾的

I C RT工程師與D J敬業的精神，風雨無阻地讓偶像。
ICRT放送不間斷。將D a v i d Wa n g視為廣播導師的I C RT主持人
Joseph Lin透露，David Wang原先在ICRT當工讀
多元樂音，青春洋溢
生時，晚上值班負責播放外電新聞，每天用空白
ICRT曾在1979年進行聽眾調查，在AM與FM 錄音帶將外電新聞錄下來，反覆練習多年，終於
聽眾比例65%是外籍人士；可是到了1980年代以「機會是給予準備好的人」，有一天一位DJ因故
後，根據AC 尼爾森廣播收聽率的調查，台灣聽不能上節目，總經理臨時指派David Wang代打，
眾反而佔了9成以上。結果一鳴驚人，人稱「大衛王」的王再得成為
一個以英文發音的電台，卻讓許多台灣人愛 ICRT第一位台灣籍的主持人。雖然他39歲時以肝
聽，主要是ICRT平日提供的西洋流行音樂現場節癌病逝，大衛王的「青春夜線」節目，伴隨著許
目，以及週末的音樂排行榜、爵士音樂、靈魂音多聽友留下美好回憶。
樂、舞曲特區等塊狀節目，吸引了許多喜歡西洋
學英語、練聽力
流行音樂的鐵粉聆聽。
ICRT昔日主持人Suzi Wonder、 Kev Morgan、在美國出生的Joseph Lin，雖然英語是母語，
Tony Taylor、Richie Walker、David Wang的現但要成為廣播節目主持人，也是下過多年苦
場節目，陪伴聽眾走過青春年少。特別是David 功，先是揣摩美國著名電視脫口秀主持人的
Wa n g，本名「王再得」的他，不是外文系，沒風格、常用的字彙，再逐漸找到自己主持的
有出國留學過，卻能以道地的美國腔成為I C RT 路。現已是I C RT「功力最深」的節目主持人，

of operation for three months. “Back then we were in the
Broadcasting Corporation of China building on Song-
jiang Road, and all the equipment was submerged in wa-
ter,” recalls Tim Berge in fluent Chinese. “The BCC went
off air for a day, but ICRT only stopped broadcasting for
an hour. That was because ICRT’s general manager hur-
ried up to our radio transmitter on Yangmingshan with
a CD player, and started making shows from there.” The
dedicated spirit of ICRT’s engineers and DJs kept the sta-
tion on air through the strong winds and heavy rains.
Musical variety, youthful spirit
An audience poll by ICRT in 1979 showed that 65%
of the station’s listeners were foreigners, but since the
1980s, according to Neilsen surveys, more than 90% of
ICRT’s audience have been Taiwanese.
That an English-language station would nonetheless ICRT的昔日DJ Tony Taylor 訪問1997年來台開演唱會的
attract many Taiwanese listeners is mainly a result of Boyzone。
ICRT’s former DJ Tony Taylor interviewed Boyzone when the
ICRT broadcasting live shows of Western music, as well band visited Taiwan on its 1997 tour.
as chart countdown shows and special jazz, soul, and

dance programming on the weekends, which attract
hardcore fans of Western popular music.
ICRT’s live shows have accompanied many listeners
through their youths. The late David Wang didn’t major
in English or another foreign language, and he didn’t go
overseas to study. But his authentic-sounding American
accent helped him to become an ICRT DJ. He became a
station legend, an idol to many listeners.
Learning English by listening
ICRT’s top host today is Joseph Lin, who originally
planned on working at the station for two years before
returning to the United States. In the blink of an eye, he’s
been in front of the station’s microphones for 20 years.
With his magnetic, charming voice, Lin says: “That’s
because I’m doing what I’ve loved to do ever since I was
small: finding and listening to music. I even get free CDs
from record labels. Imagine a fashion lover who was
able to get free clothes to wear every day!” What could
be more enticing than getting your dream job?
（上圖）主持人Joseph Lin從周杰倫未出名時即開始訪問 ICRT was the first radio station in Taiwan to take
他，至周杰倫成為巨星。（Joseph Lin提供）
(top) Host Joseph Lin has interviewed Jay Chou several times,
call-in requests. But it hasn’t stopped there: For ten
starting back before he was famous. (courtesy of Joseph Lin) years Joseph Lin has been making “surprise call-outs,”
where at the request of listeners he calls people up to
（下圖）ICRT的昔日DJ 聶雲訪問歌手光良與品冠。
reveal secret crushes, to wish them happy birthday, to
(above) Former ICRT DJ Dennis Nieh interviews the singing duo
Michael & Victor. play songs in their honor or to prank them. These calls
45
Joseph Lin20年前還是美國菲利浦公司的電腦工 ICRT 是台灣第一個創造call in的電台，不只
程師，熱愛音樂的他，週末在美國華人電台擔 call in，Joseph Lin做了10年「驚喜call out」的
任主持人，但由於一通與I C RT總經理面試的越單元，因應聽友的要求打電話告白、慶生、點
洋電話，毅然決然放下美國的舒適圈，飛來台歌或是惡作劇，常常讓聽友跟著血脈賁張或是
灣當廣播節目主持人。感動流淚。「我為聽友求婚至少30次。」接到
中文名為「林哲修」的Joseph Lin，原本想做 Jo s e p h L i n的電話，聽眾不禁尖叫，這個長青
2年就回美國，一晃眼，在麥克風前度過20年歲單元也將許多對I C RT陌生的聽眾，變為死忠
月。林哲修以他略帶磁性、富有魅力的嗓音說：聽友。
「因為我作的是我從小就愛的工作：找音樂、聽 I C RT更是國內學子學習英語，練習聽力的絕
音樂，還有唱片公司免費提供的CD，就像喜歡時佳管道。David Wang與Joseph Lin等DJ以國、英
尚的人每天都有人寄免費的衣服給你穿一樣。」雙語雙聲帶，製作風趣輕鬆的節目。經常有聽
有什麼比將夢想變工作更吸引人呢？眾反映，因為先有20∼30秒的中文，聽久了，
但節目做久了，卻有更深的使命感，「以前英文聽力就跟著加強。隨著社群媒體的發達，
同類型的西洋流行音樂節目，像飛碟等電台，或 I C RT順勢推出線上廣播、線上有聲節目，讓更
是 MTV、Channel V的節目沈寂不復以往，但還多的聽眾透過手機下載APP，聽廣播、學英文。
有我們可以為聽眾提供更多流行音樂的資訊。」 1993年起政府逐步開放廣播頻道，面臨愈來
Joseph Lin每兩週蒐集美、英、澳告示排行榜的音愈多電台的競爭，I C RT透過大型外場活動、
樂資訊分享給聽眾，也傳遞了流行文化的使命。社區公益活動，與台灣社會接地氣，抓住聽友
的黏著度。1985年開始與中國信託銀行合作的
「點燃生命之火」募款活動，對弱勢兒童的扶
助，歷史悠久且溫暖持續著。超過十年歷史的
「客家風情」單元以輕鬆活潑的方式，成為介
紹在地客家文化最好的媒介。I C RT每年舉辦的
單身派對、萬聖節派隊與自行車日，更是聽眾
與DJ一起狂歡、交流的重要活動。
作為西洋流行音樂的領航電台，I C RT致力
培育新秀，從1986年提供「青春之星」藝術獎
學金，幫助有才華的青年人深造；2007年創立
「樂團大競技」活動至今，副總經理于淑湄指
出，I C RT提供頻道與節目，讓國內外優秀的
獨立樂團和音樂創作者「打歌」，有「被聽
見」的發聲管道，歷屆冠軍持續在樂壇閃耀發
光，例如第3屆冠軍 i o 曾入圍2012年金曲獎
「最佳樂團」； 2 0 1 2 年冠軍隊 T R A S H 以及
2013年冠軍F L U X皆曾獲得貢寮音樂祭海洋之
星大賞。
與《台灣關係法》同年的I C RT，將在今
（2019）年慶祝40週年慶，7月13日將舉行西洋
老歌音樂會，邀請樂迷一同回顧聆聽I C RT的時
刻，就像優美的樂音，滲透時光，穿越歷史，只
ICRT行之有年的單身派對，十分受到聽友歡迎。
ICRT Singles Night Parties are popular with listeners. 有ICRT。 l

ICRT的主持人在單身派對中變裝與聽友互動。
At a singles event, an ICRT host wearing a costume interacts with listeners.
excite listeners and sometimes even move them to tears. astically welcomed by listeners and DJs alike and help
“I’ve proposed marriage on listeners’ behalf at least 30 to build relationships between them.
times.” A call from Joseph Lin often provokes a scream As the leading broadcaster of Western music in Tai-
of delight, and this ever-popular segment has turned wan, ICRT has worked hard at developing new shows
many people into faithful ICRT listeners. and programs. Its “Battle of the Bands” activity was first
ICRT is also an excellent channel for local students held in 2007. Deputy general manager Ding Yu points
to learn English and practice their listening comprehen- out that ICRT has contributed its channel and program-
sion skills. With the development of social media, ICRT ming to spotlight outstanding independent bands and
has gone on to launch online broadcasts and podcasts, musicians. After being “discovered,” champions of
allowing more listeners to listen and study English on those battles have gone on to bright performing careers.
their smartphones through the station’s app. Born the same year as the Taiwan Relations Act, ICRT
In 1993 the government took steps to open up the is celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2019. On July 13,
broadcasting industry. Facing competition from more it will hold a concert of Western music, inviting fans to
and more channels, ICRT has held major outdoor events gather and reminisce about their experiences listening to
and organized community public interest activities the station over the years. The concert will bear witness
to emphasize its local roots and bolster loyalty from to how beautiful music makes a mark on history and
listeners. Its We Love Hakka show, with its lively and transcends eras, and will spotlight the station’s unique
easygoing style, has become one of the best mediums history. As the station’s slogan goes: “Only on ICRT!” l
for introducing Hakka culture. ICRT’s annual singles (Esther Tseng/photos courtesy of ICRT/
parties, Halloween parties, and bike days are enthusi- tr. by Jonathan Barnard)
47
貝魯特之旅 ◎ 丁松青
好讀
月
是一個關於家族、旅程、山岳的故事。故事起點是前往
這遙遠黎巴嫩山的旅行，追尋我未曾謀面的先祖家族；終
點則在臺灣的群山之間，返回我沒有血緣的家人身邊，回到我
服務的泰雅族清泉部落，我是這裡的教區神父。整趟旅程中，
外公、外婆的故事和我自己的故事交織在一起，引導我，也支
持我為臺灣原住民服務的生活。我相信祖先的靈魂仍然與我同
在。本書主題就是我如何來到現在所在的這座山，以及伴隨旅
程而來的喜悅和掙扎。
二○一四年，我從臺灣前往黎巴嫩，試著尋找母親的祖先：外
公、外婆早在一百多年前就從黎巴嫩移民美國。黎巴嫩朝聖之
旅同時也是我向內探問的旅程。我成功找到了自己黎巴嫩人的
身分，這個身分透過母親祖先的漫長譜系烙印在我的靈魂上。
是一趟巡覽好文的旅程，
更是一回賞讀美篇的心靈停駐……
也是一段遍閱佳構的遨遊，
新結交的朋友和親戚都成為我身上重要的一部分，我會永遠加
以珍惜。
我坐在阿提哈德航空的飛機準備降落時，我的內心因期待
上，從窗邊的位子往外看，俯瞰黎而狂跳不已。這麼多年來，我一直
巴嫩曲折的海岸線。岩岸和河口期待這趟旅行，幾乎是一生以來
描出蔚藍海水的邊界，房舍三三的企盼。我想起在密西西比的黎
兩兩散落，從海岸攀爬上遠方的巴嫩阿姨和舅舅，回憶流過心頭：
山巒。眼前的黎巴嫩美麗又平靜，我們去拜訪他們的時候，他們總
儘管之前內戰連年，近年又衝突不是溫暖好客；暑假時我們到農場
斷，但現在沒有戰事。此時是二○ 幫外公撿雞蛋，或是在廚房看外婆
一四年五月，這個國家正享有難煮出一道道黎巴嫩佳餚 …… 往後
得的和平時期。的歲月我便一直對那些住在黎巴
嫩、素未謀面的親戚感到好奇。現 A n i s s e h）。三十年來，我一直好
在我即將抵達此地，抵達母親祖好記著這兩個珍貴的姓名，希望有
先的故土。朝一日自己也能啟程前往黎巴嫩。
飛機盤旋準備降落時，我瞥見這個夢想終於實現了。
貝魯特繁忙的港口。一百多年前，飛機降落在貝魯特機場，機場
新婚的外公外婆就是從這裡搭船不大，但相當現代化。移民關通關
前往美國的嗎？我對他們在黎巴快速簡單，我因為拿美國護照，得
嫩的生活所知無幾，不論是他們到一個月的免費落地簽。機場裡只
的成長過程，或是他們決定前往有少數西方觀光客，大部分的旅人
新國度的原因，也不太清楚他們看起來像是中產階級難民，逃離戰
抵達美國之後做了什麼。我知道的爭蹂躪的家園，來到更安全的黎巴
大都來自三十多年前訪問外公時嫩國土，至少目前依然安全。
錄下的內容。我了解到貝魯特基本上是個突
那是一九八 ○ 年的夏天。阿公出海洋的海岬，高聳的懸崖以及書名：從彼山到此山

作者：丁松青
（Pa p a，我們這樣叫外公）九十多沙灘沿著海岸分布；城市的另一定價： 350元頁數：280頁
歲，身強體壯。那時候，除了一次邊延伸至樹林茂密的山丘。貝魯特出版：大塊文化
疝氣手術之外，阿公從來沒住過有將近兩百萬居民，再加上持續
院。阿公矮小精瘦，身體因為長年流入此地的敘利亞難民。這裡傳
務農而強壯結實。他的英文始終統上分成西貝魯特的穆斯林區和
不太好，但是仍然足以回答我的東貝魯特的基督徒區，不過自從戰
問題、敘述他的回憶，包括他在黎爭開打以來，這些區分就不像以前
巴嫩的成長過程、航向美國的旅那麼重要了。我選擇住在西貝魯特
程，還有早年在密西西比的生活。的旅館，因為我想離大海近一點。 ○年），是這一區少數歷經內戰仍
我不是家族裡第一個造訪黎巴我們逐漸接近美麗的濱海地然碩果僅存的飯店。我注意到這
嫩的人，但是，因為黎巴嫩幾乎連區，我的心情也隨之更加雀躍，一帶仍在重建中，旁邊有座尚未
年戰亂不斷，所以這樣的旅行十我終於第一次近距離看到地中完工的高聳摩天大樓，讓瑞吉斯
分少見。一九六四年，我的兩個表海。棕櫚成行的步道沿著海岸飯店顯得嬌小無比。與其說瑞吉
親曾經到黎巴嫩追尋家族根源。線延伸，這條步道稱為濱海大道斯是間真正的飯店，不如說它更像
十年後，有個表姐帶著丈夫一起（C o r n i c h e），綿延將近五公里。家常的民宿，讓我感到非常自在。
試著追溯祖先起源。他們成功前我的旅館離濱海大道的起點只有旅館瀰漫一股家庭氛圍，還有一
往黎巴嫩北部山區，並找到了阿公幾步之遙。我下了計程車，走進旅位溫暖又周到的經理。
的故鄉安圖靈村（A i n t o u r i n e）。館；海平面上，午後的陽光正逐漸一大早，瑞吉斯飯店大廳冷冷
他們回來之後，告訴我村裡兩個轉成金黃色，夜晚即將降臨。清清，彷彿久無人居，前門依然鎖
親戚的名字，瑪爾莎以及賽德．老瑞吉斯見證了黎巴嫩十五年著，因此我開始思索該如何出門，
阿尼瑟（M a r s h a a n d S a y d e 來內戰的蹂躪（內戰結束於一九九以便來趟清晨漫步。我發現有另
51
一位旅人也在尋找出口，我們很快我們從白鴿岩這裡轉向內陸，走瑞吉斯飯店大廳本身就是個有
找到側門，從側門溜進後面的巷進貝魯特的哈姆拉區（H a m r a），趣的地方。大廳的電視永遠開著，
子；於是我們倆一起散步，在涼爽這是靠近美國大學的熱鬧商業區。通常都轉到黎巴嫩當地的ＭＴＶ音
的朝陽下沿濱海大道前行。林肯走過這條路線，因此是位好樂頻道。磨痕累累的沙發被幾個
和我共同散步的同伴是位又高嚮導。我們在大學大門得到穿越敘利亞年輕人盤據，他們或者喝咖
又瘦的年輕醫生，來自密蘇里州，校園的許可，操場居高臨下俯瞰大啡、閒聊，或者滑手機。多數人或
名叫林肯。林肯只在黎巴嫩待幾海。美國大學相當氣派，由基督教許就像阿拉丁一樣，也是難民，不
天，稍後就要前往埃及。我接下來傳教士設立於十九世紀，被公認為過在找工作或等待前往下一個國度
在黎巴嫩共待了兩週，這兩週竟黎巴嫩最頂尖的大學。校內綠意盎之際，還負擔得起住旅館的費用。
只遇到林肯一位美國觀光客。走然，有著綠草如茵的小山丘，向山三不五時就會有黎巴嫩軍人前
著走著，我們經過幾位漁夫身邊，下的濱海大道延伸而去。來盤查敘利亞旅客，或許是出於
只見他們勇敢的爬上岸邊滿布青散步兩小時之後，我們繞回瑞吉安全考量。我很想在大廳待久一點
苔的岩石，拋出釣線；還看到幾位斯，林肯準備好往機場出發，我和和敘利亞人聊聊天，但又迫不及待
晨泳的泳客以及做日光浴的人。我他道別。接著我遇到了旅館的櫃想再多探索貝魯特。方才清晨迷人
們從靠近市中心的聖喬治灣遊艇檯人員阿拉丁，他邀我再享用第二的散步正好挑起我的胃口，讓我想
俱樂部出發，一直走到知名的白頓早餐。旅館的房租不含餐費，不再多四處看看。
鴿岩（Pigeon Rocks）那裡，走了過阿拉丁似乎不在意這點，他開心稍事休息之後，我再次踏上一早
大約四十分鐘；白鴿岩從貝魯特的向大廳每個人提供免費的食物和林肯散步的部分路線。此時濱
高雅的勞切爾（Raouché）海岸突和飲料。早餐包括一片美味的扁麵海大道上的人更多了，天空明亮蔚
出海面。包，上面塗著優格起司，還有香濃藍，陽光開始散發熱力。
林肯指著濱海大道對面山丘上的黎巴嫩咖啡。我在哈姆拉區的幾間書店停下
的房子，他聽說一間房子至少都阿拉丁個子高䠷，皮膚白皙，是腳步，買了一張黎巴嫩地圖和一本
要四百萬美元；他再補充，即使是來自敘利亞阿勒坡（Aleppo）的難關於現代貝魯特的小說，接著在
貝魯特郊區的公寓大樓也值一百民，過去一年來大多數時間都在瑞哈姆拉一間高級餐廳用餐，坐在
萬美元。貝魯特這個城市顯然寸土吉斯飯店工作。他的家園毀於敘餐廳中庭，點了完整的黎巴嫩套餐
寸金，我們都覺得能找到像瑞吉斯利亞內戰，事實上整座村莊都毀（之後大都只吃些點心）。服務生
飯店這樣的地方真是幸運，不只房於戰亂。阿拉丁的家人在戰爭爆發問我這是不是我第一次到貝魯特，
價低廉，位置又很方便。前就搬走了，因此能夠安然無恙的我說沒錯，而且隔天我就要動身
我們走到白鴿岩附近，這是貝魯住在伊斯坦堡。他覺得可惜的是，去尋找素未謀面的親戚。聽到我
特海岸的代表地標，然後在路邊家裡遭到轟炸時，他的電腦也付的話，服務生臉上露出驚訝的表
一間小咖啡店停下來吃點早餐。之一炬，不過他說一旦和平重新降情，他指著自己的手說：「你看，聽
我們一邊享用果仁蜜餅、喝葡萄冰臨，他就要重建家園。他讓我看蘋你這麼說，我都起了雞皮疙瘩，聽
沙，一邊欣賞海岸邊這兩座巨大白果手機裡阿勒坡的照片，還有他起來實在太棒了！」
色石灰岩的奇形異狀，試著分辨它家炸毀之前的照片，當時一切皆無下午，我繼續探索哈姆拉區，
們看起來到底像不像鴿子。比祥和。發現一間羅馬天主教教堂，進教

（大塊文化提供）
堂簡單參觀，還看見幾間有意思全國八百萬人當中，每四人就有一軍人問路。我始終覺得很安全。
的店。黎巴嫩內戰對哈姆拉區的人是難民，大部分是敘利亞人，但夜色即將降臨時，我走過旅館
破壞不像市中心那麼嚴重。事實也有五十萬的巴勒斯坦人。附近的港口，看到一座綠草如茵
上，正因為大部分轟炸都落在市中我很喜歡貝魯特。貝魯特既精的小山丘，以前或許是遭到轟炸
心，所以人們才湧向哈姆拉區；哈巧又國際化，有來自中東形形色的市區的一部分；市區尚未全面重
姆拉區現在成了時髦的去處。哈色的人，還有一些西方人。由於曾建完成。在涼爽的微風中，草原逐
姆拉區僅有的困苦跡象來自敘利經受到法國統治多年，這裡還有漸布滿居民，他們帶狗來遊戲、運
亞難民，他們大都是黑衣婦女，坐一股優雅的歐洲氛圍。儘管如此，動；暮色讓草原看來如此超現實。
在人行道上乞討，或者是衣衫襤褸幾乎所有標誌都寫英文，幾乎每個我盯著狗狗看了好久，其中一隻黃
的孩子，等著為路人擦鞋。自從敘我遇到的人也都好像至少能講幾金獵犬跑過來跳到我身上；我有一
利亞內戰開打以來，貝魯特的人口句英文。有幾條街上有軍人站崗，隻黃金獵犬也老是這樣。我開始
增加了一倍。就黎巴嫩而言，現在不過他們相當友善，我偶爾會向想念我的狗了。
53
影像對話　PHOTO ESSAY
給影像一個肉身：
侯怡亭
G i v i n g I m a g e s
Bodies:
文•沈柏逸　圖•侯怡亭提供　版面設計•蕭郢岑
Hou I-ting

一直以來，侯怡亭關注的主題多是關於
「身體的政治性」，也就是身體是如何被塑 H ou I-ting has long been concerned about the “politics
of the body”—how images of the body are shaped and
molded. Whether this molding occurs in mass culture, or in
造的。無論是從大眾文化、藝術史、女性身
the history of art, or in the politics of women’s bodies, or
體政治，以及全球生產線塑造的勞動身體
in the ways that global production chains employ workers’
等，都在探問我們習以為常的身體，進而揭 bodies, she asks questions about familiar images and then
露「形塑身體的運行機制」。 proceeds to reveal the “shaping mechanisms” involved.
Body as media
身體作為媒介
Hou I-ting’s creative focus was originally on performance
侯怡亭早期的創作偏向行為藝術，以實 art, in which her own body would engage in various kinds
際的肉身進行各種行為表演，並透過影像記 of performances and be recorded in images. For instance, in
Usurper, to convey the absurdity of trying to meet society’s
錄。比方說《篡位者》透過自己的肉身符合
body ideals, she mixed and matched her own body parts
各種美女明星，或是動漫人物的姿態，再經
with those of great beauties or female celebrities, or she
由投影疊加在自己的身體上，呈現人們為了 adopted the poses of cartoon characters and projected images
符合社會理想樣貌的荒謬樣態。又或是《複 of them onto her own body. In Complexing Body, she took self-
體》藉由在傳統市場自拍的影像，再透過刺 ies at traditional markets, and then added embroidery and
繡縫合西方美術史的經典元素在其中，形塑 classic elements from Western art history, thus juxtaposing—
雅（西方美術史）俗（傳統市場）並置的矛 in all their contradictory glory—elegance (the history of
Western art) with crudeness (traditional Taiwanese markets).
盾奇觀。
歷史刺繡人 1，2015∼2016年。
Lík-sú Tsiam-tsílâng 1, 2015–2016
55
「代工繡場」展覽現場，2015年。
Sewing Fields venue, 2015
不可見的肉身
上述的前期作品中，她多以自己的身體作為主要的創作媒介。然而，在近期
的創作中，她更關注的不再只是自己的身體，而更多地著眼於隱藏在身體背後
運行的各種機制。假若之前的作品以「可見肉身的表演」為主，那麼近期的作
品更可說是聚焦於「不可見的肉身」。
Invisible flesh
In the previously mentioned works of her early period, she mostly used her own body
as her creative medium. Yet over time her focus has turned from her own body toward
the various behind-the-scenes mechanisms that are manipulating bodies. If her earlier
work mainly had a focus on “the performance of the visible body,” then her more recent
work could be described as focusing on “the invisible body.”

從2015年的《代工繡場》展覽開始，
她的「刺繡行為」不再只是如同《複
體》一般隱藏起來，而是在展場中直接
展示被一般人所忽略的刺繡過程，並結
合打卡上下班的模式；也就是說，過去
我們看作品大都只注重最後的美學表
現形式，然而侯怡亭卻透過展覽回返到
「作品是如何創作出來的過程」，進而
接觸藝術機制的勞動議題。過往藝術家
的勞動力往往是隱藏在作品之後，但侯
怡亭卻是透過「現場」刺繡及打卡，對
此類展覽作品的隱形機制作出「機制批
判」（institutional critique）。
In her 2015 show Sewing Fields, her “em-

broidering actions” are no longer hidden as
they are in Complexing Body. Rather, the ex-
hibition spotlights the embroidery process,
which is usually overlooked by most people,
and features workers who punch in with
timecards at the start and finish of work. In
the past we would have only seen the fin-
ished product as a work of art, but here Hou
uses this exhibition of her work to revisit “the
process of how a work is created,” before
touching upon the labor issues involved in
the mechanisms of the arts’ creation. The la-
bor involved in creating art formerly was hid-
den in the product itself, but Hou has used “on
site” embroidery and punch cards to offer an
“institutional critique” of the hidden mechan-
isms endemic to these types of exhibitions.
57
歷史刺繡人 2，2015∼2016年。
Lík-sú Tsiam-tsílâng 2, 2015–2016
集體的勞動群像
值得一提的是，對照過去藝術家作為主要表演的角色；侯怡亭在《代
工繡場》中並非作為作品中的勞動主角，其中也有許多不是藝術家的勞動
者在現場協助縫製作品。這種「去作者化」的行動也在《代工繡場》中呈
現，作品中挪用過去台灣女子學校現成老照片的《歷史刺繡人》，藉由歷
史回返探討「集體的勞動」。她所選擇的老照片多為女子學校的學生群體
執行女紅的場景，像是聚集起來縫紉、刺繡、插花等的時刻。這種過去群
體的勞動影像也同時呼應畫廊中集體勞動的現在行為。重要的是，從個人
身體到集體生命政治的發展，也讓她離開了作者的個人風格標誌，走向
「勞動的群像」，而這群像也交織著過去與現在的勞動。

Images of collective labor
It’s worth mentioning that in contrast to her earlier work, where the artist herself took center stage, in
Sewing Fields Hou I-ting does not take the leading role of laborer within the work. Instead, there are also
many non-artist laborers who work at the exhibition venue, sewing. This is a form of “de-authorship.” In
the series Lík-sú Tsiam-tsílâng, old photos of girls’ schools in Taiwan have been reappropriated. The works
look back at history to explore the idea of “collective labor.” The old photos Hou selected mostly capture
moments of girls at school collectively practicing the “feminine arts,” where groups of them are engaged
in sewing, embroidery, or flower arranging. That past collective work also echoes the current collective
work being done in the gallery. Importantly, there is development from the individual’s own body to
the politics of the collective. She has left behind the personal experiences of an “author” to move toward
“images of the group at labor,” and these group images also blend the labor of the past and the present.
59
歷史刺繡人 7，2017年。
Lík-sú Tsiam-tsílâng 7, 2017
時間的共時與主體的產生
在時間方面，除了勞動表演者現場打卡計算工時的線性時間；〈歷史刺繡人〉也透過刺繡的
姿態，縫合了過去與現在的共時綿延。在這縫補的過程中，也將過去的女學生跟現在的勞動表
演者重合。恰恰是在這回返過去的過程中，使得這些看似被攝影以及教育固化身體的女性，也
同時在跟「鏡頭對視」與「縫合行為」中重新展顯了她們的主體性。這些女子學校的學生不只
是作為被觀看（被教育）的客體，而是在這過去與現在對視的剎那展現了新的能動主體，進而
透過回視抵抗僵化的單向凝視。

The synchronicity of time and the production of subjects

With regard to time, apart from the linear time embodied by the clock punching of the labor perform-
ers, Lík-sú Tsiam-tsílâng also stitches together a continuum between past and present through the poses of
embroiderers. This process of sewing connects those students of the past with the labor performers on site.
Precisely in the mixing of past and present, it causes these women whose bodies seem to have been solidi-
fied by photography and education to regain their subjectivity via their “looking back into the lens” and
“acts of sewing.” These students at a girls’ school are more than simply objects being watched (or being
educated). Rather, in the instant of a mutual gaze between the past and the present, they display a new
sense of being active subjects. By looking back at the camera, they resist the stiffness of a one-way gaze.
61

重新賦予影像身體
要言之，侯怡亭透過動態辯證的運動，
將停滯於過去的影像重新賦予了生命、一
個活生生的身體。而這身體相較於過去她
表演的具體身體，更加地具有虛擬、歷
史，以及政治性，更同時讓我們思考我們
的身體是在怎麼樣的歷史條件中所形塑，
進而召喚新的集體身體可能。 l
Again giving bodies to images

In short, Hou, via a dynamic dialectical pro-
cess, takes images frozen in the past and gives
them new life, with living, breathing bodies. And
these bodies, in contrast to the concrete physicality
of her own body as the medium of her early work,
are more virtual, historical and political. Mean-
while, they prompt us to consider how our bodies
have been molded by historical conditions and to
summon new possibilities for collective bodies. l
(Shen Bo-yi/photos courtesy of Hou I-ting/
tr. by Jonathan Barnard)
63
全球視野　GLOBAL OUTLOOK
全球客家研究重鎮──台灣
多元研究，全球學術聯盟
Taiwan, Global Center of
Hakka Studies
文‧李珊瑋　圖‧林旻萱　版面設計‧胡如瑜
硬頸春秋史，斑斑血淚痕。冠上「客家」的稱謂，意謂著劃下與在
地的鴻溝。數十代的遷徙流離，由原鄉到遍及全球，處處為家，終身做
客。在漂泊中咬牙打拚，落腳後勤毅隱忍。
客家，一個沒有固定屬地的族群。台灣30年前一場「還我母語運
動」，喚醒客家人的自覺，在民主洪流裡，爭取對多元族群的尊重。
2003年客家研究走進學術殿堂，15年來，研究面向百花齊放，不僅以在
地化的視角，建置族群研究領域；更放眼全球，相互交流，採擷綿延永
續的客家軌跡，創新客家學術邊界。
R emaining steadfast despite their history of hardship, the Hakkas are tradi-
tionally thought of as a people without a homeland of their own. Taiwan’s
mother tongue revival movement of three decades ago sparked a growing sense of
ethnic consciousness among Hakkas. Amid the swirling currents of democracy,
they have striven to gain respect. Hakka studies first emerged as an academic
discipline in Taiwan in 2003. In the 15 years since, the discipline has produced
prodigious and varied fruits that have both shaped localized forms of ethnic stud-
ies and, through international exchanges, raised the profile of Hakkas by staking
out a place for Hakka studies in the international academic community.
Who are the Hakkas?

“Who am I? Where do I come from? Why am I called a Hakka?” That web
of mysteries is what first sparked research into the ethnic
group. After a series of conflicts in Eastern Guang
dong from the 19th century onward, in which the
除夕祭祖是客家的家
族大事，用誠敬的心，
向祖先追念感恩。
（廖泰基攝）
Praying to the ancestors
on New Year’s Eve is
an important event for
Hakka families, when
they express their
sincere gratitude to
those who went before.
(photo by Liao Taichi)
「羅香林對客家族群的見解，有他的
誰是客家人
時空背景。」台灣大學歷史學博士、任
「我是誰？從那裡來？為什麼要稱呼職國史館的林正慧認為，羅香林的客家
我是客家人？」一連串待解的迷惘，點研究，是源於被污名化後的族群自覺，
燃族群身世的探究。19世紀時，在粵東並期待以學術論點，樹立族群的正統與
發生「客家非漢事件」後，清末民初祖優越性。用社會文化做為根基，先產生
籍廣東興寧縣的史學家羅香林，為了印結構性的失憶，再建構新的集體記憶，
證千頭萬緒的尋根疑雲，在綿延悠遠的凝聚族群意識。
歷史脈絡中，抽絲剝繭，以客家界說、「客家其實是一種相對應的稱
客家源流及遷移軌跡等見解，開啟了學呼。」已由人類學和社會學中取得印
術研究的濫觴。羅香林首創「客家民證。所謂土客之爭，客家意指由外地
系」一詞，由血源及地源的關係，描繪遷徙而來，先來者對後到者所加諸的
客家族群的變遷。稱呼，是一種由「他覺」而「自覺」
「客家人透過文化建構來認同身的歷程。張維安以他切身經歷，印證
分。」前中央研究院民族學研究所所長「客家」一詞，其實是始於一種族群
徐正光說。「想法決定結論。」獲得第邊界（b o u n d a r y）理論的結果。「我
南庄的客家聚落，仍然 7屆客家貢獻獎的前交通大學客家文化自小在客家庄成長，當我沒有接觸到
沿襲著傳統的生活方學院院長張維安，娓娓述說台灣客家研外面的世界時，並不知道客家人所代
式。（林格立攝）
In Hakka communities 究學術化的始末。學術研究必須以大量表的意義。」張維安不會說閩南語，
in Miaoli County’s
Nanzhuang, the 的資料來辯證真理，以跨域的方法論與同學們也聽不懂客家話。「唯有在不
traditional ways of life live
on. (photo by Jimmy Lin) 相關理論，建構知識體系，擺脫族群情同族群相互接觸後，才會發覺到彼此
結的糾葛，回歸歷史原貌，這就是學術的相異。」於是由「自在的客家」成
研究可貴的價值。為具有客家意識的「自為的客家」。

Han ethnicity of Hakkas was disputed, Lo rooted in the group’s experience with stigmat
Hsianglin (1906–1978), a historian born in the ization: It was Lo’s hope that academic theo
late Qing era, strove to resolve numerous ques ries could bring legitimacy to the ethnic group
tions about the history and origins of Hakkas. and highlight their many strong suits.
He embarked on a meticulous investigation, “In truth the appellation ‘Hakkas’ [“guest
making inquiries within the Hakka community people”] is a name given them by others.” This
to gain understanding of Hakka migrations. point has been corroborated both anthropo
Thus began the discipline of Hakka studies. logically and sociologically. The name is an
“Hakkas find their ethnic identity in cul expression of conflict over who belongs in a
tural constructs,” says Hsu Cheng kuang, locality and who is an outsider. It denotes a
former head of the Institute of Ethnology at people that moved from somewhere else, and
the Academia Sinica. “Opinions govern con was used by established inhabitants of an area
clusions,” says Chang Weian, former dean to describe those who arrived later. Thus, the
of the College of Hakka Studies at National very way they call themselves indicates a pro
Chiao Tung University, who won a Hakka cess of incorporating others’ sense of them into 多樣的客家米食和料
理，早已跨越族群，成
Contributions Award in 2017. They thus sum their own sense of themselves. “From a young
為台灣具有代表性的美
up scholarship about Hakkas in Taiwan. age, I grew up in a Hakka community,” says 食。（莊坤儒攝）
“Lo Hsianglin’s views about Hakkas were Chang Weian. “Before I experienced the out The varied rice dishes
and other components
very much a product of their time,” says Lin side world, I didn’t know what it meant to be a of Hakka cuisine
have crossed over
Chenghui of the Academia Historica, who Hakka.” It was only when he went to element to become important
holds a doctorate in history from NTU. Lin ary school that he discovered that his class parts of Taiwanese food
in general. (photo by
believes that Lo’s research into Hakkas was mates spoke Hokkien and didn’t understand Chuang Kung-ju)
位於新竹縣北埔鄉的北
埔金廣福公館是國定古
蹟，是在清朝官方支持
下，閩粵合股的拓墾組
織，為台灣閩粵族群之
合作立下典範。
Jin Guang Fu Hall in
Hsinchu’s Beipu Township
is a national historic site.
With the support of the
Qing government, the
building became home
to a settlers’ organization
supporting both Hokkien
from Fujian and Hakka
from Guangdong. It
served as a model of
cooperation between the
two groups.
67
依照社會學概念，族群分野，講求的客家語言保存一直是客家運動著墨的
是歷史和文化認同。而今台灣的客家人重點，也是族群存續重要的靈魂。「第
認定，早已不侷限在「血緣論」的條件，一本客語字典，是外國傳教士寫的。」
而是符合「文化認同論」的先進思潮。心繫客語存續的張維安，在瑞士巴色會
《客家基本法》則採用務實定義，只要總部發現並拍攝到客語發音表。位於
具有「客家血緣」或是「客家淵源」，瑞士巴色城（B a s e l），今瑞士第三大
並且「自我認同」，就算是客家人。城「巴塞爾」的基督教「巴色差會」
(Basel Mission)，據信是第一個到廣東
客語是族群識別標記
客家地區傳教的教會，羅香林當時就是
語言是文化的載體，也是族群研究不巴色教會的長老，對客家文化的保存與
可或缺的重要元素，承載著族群的歷史復興，有舉足輕重的貢獻。相隔一個世
和命運。每一種方言的形塑，都有其醞紀，歷經26 年完成翻譯的客語聖經，也
釀的背景，客家方言正是客家族群在中在台灣出版，顯現基督教與客家文化的
國移民歷史中，相互產生的溝通認同。淵源與連結十分緊密。
「台灣的客家話就有『四海永樂大張維安與中央大學客家學院張翰璧
客家文化發展中心圖平安』不同的腔調。」徐正光說。所教授編輯《基督教與客家文化》論文
書資料中心館藏宣教
謂「四海永樂大平安」是指四縣、海集，集結海內外牧者對客語和文化的
士Donald MacIver於
1905年完成初版的陸、永定、長樂、大埔、饒平、詔安，論述，創新客家研究的範疇。其中長
A C h i n e s e-E n g l i s h
Dictionary, Hakka-Dialect
主要源於粵東，少部份是閩南、閩西地老總會客家宣教委員會主委曾昌發引
《客英大辭典》。區。在高雄六堆成長的徐正光說，「直述德國學者赫德（Herder, 1744-1803）
The library of the Hakka
Culture Development 到北上唸大學，才知道有不同腔調的客名言：「一個民族有比先民們遺傳下
Center holds a copy
of A Chinese–English 家話。」張維安也說起一個趣事，「台來的語言，更寶貴的資產嗎？」認為
Dictionary, Hakka
Dialect, compiled by 灣的客家話在日據時期被誤認為廣東搶救客家話，是刻不容緩的族群使
the Reverend Donald
MacIver and first 話。」當時日軍派台灣的客家人去廣東命。以《客家人》獲教育部「推展本
published in 1905.
進行翻譯溝通，才發現雙方語言根本完土語言傑出貢獻獎」的陳運棟，更彰
全不同。顯母語的重要性。因為社區開放的潮
流趨勢，導致全球客家語言族群逐年
凋零，「雖然父母是客家人，但是下
一代卻不會講客家話。」這種學術上
歸結出的危機感，成為執政者參考聆
聽的指標。
在民主化的公平正義下，「客家人
是台灣人，客語是國語。」漂泊的族
群，已然在台灣落地生根。2018年1月
31日公布施行的《客家基本法》修正條
文，明定客語為國家語言。講客、寶島
客家、新客家等電台與客家委員會「哈
客網路學院」，是客語主流化的重要推
手，對於客家話傳遞的普及化，增強客
家認同，激發隱性客家人的客家意識，
都有大幅的助益。

客家文化發展中心圖書
資料中心致力保存客家
典籍及相關研究論著。
The library of the
Taiwan Hakka Culture
Development Center
collects and preserves
Hakka classics and Hakka-
related research papers.
Hakka. “It wasn’t until I came into contact with ton) that they discovered that the languages
different ethnic groups that I realized how we were completely different.
differed from each other.” So it was that a “nat The preservation of Hakka language has
ural Hakka” became a “selfaware Hakka.” always been a focus of Hakka movements,
In sociology, the separation between ethnic and the language is an important component
groups is a matter of historical and cultural of the ethnicity’s soul. “The first Hakka dic
identification. And the sense of ethnic identiy tionary was written by a foreign missionary.”
among Taiwan’s Hakkas has long not been de Deeply committed to the continued vitality of
lineated by blood alone. The Hakka Basic Law Hakka, Chang Weian discovered and photo
adopts a practical definition: So long as one graphed a Hakka pronunciation chart at the
is of “Hakka descent” or has “Hakka origins” Basel Mission headquarters in Basel, Switzer
and one identifies as a Hakka, then one is re land. That society of missionaries is believed
garded as a Hakka. to have been the first to establish a presence
The Hakka language: An ethnic marker in Hakka communities in Guangdong, and it
Language is a carrier of culture, and it is also made important contributions to preserving
an essential element of ethnic studies that is in and reviving Hakka culture. The dictionary is
extricably tied to a people’s history and fate. a good demonstration of the close connections
“In Taiwan you can find every kind of Hakka between Christianity and Hakka culture.
accent,” says Hsu Chengkuang, who grew up In Christianity and Hakka Culture, edited by
in Liudui, Kaohsiung. “But it wasn’t until I went Chang Weian and Chang Hanpi, a professor
up north for university that I learned that there in the College of Hakka Studies at National
were different Hakka accents.” Chang Weian, Central University, the authors have collected
meanwhile, cites an interesting historical anec essays about Hakka culture by Christian cler
dote: “During the Japanese era, Taiwan’s Hakka ics, opening innovative avenues for Hakka
dialects were mistaken for Cantonese.” It was research. Among these works, one by Zeng
only after the Japanese armed forces sent Hak Changfa, chairman of the Hakka Mission
kas to work as interpreters in Guangdong (Can Committee of the Presbyterian Church in
69
食用期限。敬天愛地，珍惜生存空間。
客家的遷徙地圖
「客家婦女沒有纏足的習性。」因為在
「客家是分散又聯繫的族群。」山嶺間奔走，採茶飼養，大足才能方便
客家研究中，世代遷徙是族群演進的行走做事。
重要軌跡。「客家人像鳥，是覓食的因為流離顛沛的生活太苦了，客家人
民族。」當生存基礎被動搖，就開始非常重視子女的教育，希望借由知識的
遷移。勇於挑戰新環境的傳承，形成力量，翻轉貧窮。「一等人忠臣孝子，
今日廣袤的人口分佈。「全球保守估兩件事耕讀傳家。」正是客家人訓誡子
計有六千多萬客家人口，除了東南亞孫的圭臬。
地區，連巴布亞新幾內亞都有客家人「有一個觀念是值得去深思的。」徐
的蹤跡。」致力全球客家研究的張維正光提出一個不同的論點，「其實具有
安，不斷奔走進行田野考察，由族群一定的經濟能力，才能夠帶著家族長途
文化主體來做詮釋。遷徙。」交通大學人文社會學系博士後
「居住地和生活習慣，都反映出研究員徐雨村在研究砂拉越客家族群提
客家文化。」徐正光說。先到的居住到，1900年初期，當地政府分配土地給
者，當然選擇肥沃的土壤，平坦的地農民，吸引大批從事農業的客家人，集
前中央研究院民族學研
域。後來者只能被驅趕到山坡地，相體移民到砂拉越開墾。「在教會的協助
究所所長徐正光對推動對貧瘠的地方。為了爭取生存的空下，整個家族一起搬遷到沙巴。」張維
客家研究學術化，付出
極大心力。間，客家族群在惡劣環境中，養成強安說。事先安排好住宿及營生行業，集
Hsu Cheng-kuang,
former head of the
韌堅毅的性格。體到新天地開啟新生活。
Institute of Ethnology 「由客家的生活習慣中，可以看
at the Academia Sinica,
has spared no effort
放眼全球，多元探索
出先民的艱辛。」客家習於製作醃漬
in promoting academic
research about Hakkas. 物，在作物盛產時，醃漬保存，延長視野的高度，決定研究的深厚與廣
國家文藝獎第十屆文學
類得主李喬，是出生於
台灣苗栗縣大湖鄉番仔
林山區的客籍作家。
Winner of one of the
Tenth National Awards
for Art, Li Qiao is a Hakka
writer who was born in the
hill country of Fanzailin in
Dahu, Miaoli County.

前交通大學客家文化學
院院長張維安為研究客
家文化與傳承學術命
脈，海內外四處奔走。
Chang Wei-an, former
dean of the College of
Hakka Studies at National
Chiao Tung University,
travels often in Taiwan
and abroad, striving to
spotlight and disseminate
academic research into
Hakka culture.
Taiwan, argues that saving the Hakka language of ethnic evolution. “Hakkas are like birds: they
is a mission of the highest urgency. The Hakkas, are a migratory group.” When the foundations
by Chen Yundong, which won an award from of their survival are shaken, they move, cour
the Ministry of Education for its “outstanding ageously tackling the challenges of new en
contribution to promoting native languages,” vironments. Their willingness to pull up stakes
makes an even stronger case for the importance has led to the wide scattering of their population
of native languages. These academic works, today. “There are an estimated 60millionplus
which are responding to a sense of crisis, have Hakkas in the world. Beyond Southeast Asia,
become important references for government they can even be found in Papua New Guinea.”
policy makers. “The places they have lived and the cus
Amendments to the Hakka Basic Act, which toms of those places are all reflected in Hakka
took effect on January 31, 2018, made Hakka an culture,” says Hsu Chengkuang. It is a Hakka
officially designated national language. Hakka custom to make pickled vegetables: During
language radio stations, such as Hakka Radio, harvest season, they pickle some of the crop to
Formosa Hakka Radio and New Hakka Radio, preserve it, thus extending the time that it can
as well as the Hakka ELearning Center of the be consumed. They cherish the land, making
Hakka Affairs Council, are important main the most of their environments.
stream promoters of the use of Hakka. These Aware of the hardships of being poor and
institutions have made major contributions to displaced, the Hakkas put a lot of emphasis on
promoting the widespread use of Hakka as a the education of the young, hoping to leverage
spoken language, bolstering a sense of Hakka knowledge to change their fortunes for the
identity, and igniting a latent sense of Hakka better. “People of quality are loyal subjects and
consciousness. filial children; they work the land and study,
Map of Hakka migration to maintain their families from generation to
“Hakkas are a scattered yet connected ethnic generation”—these are principles that Hakkas
group,” says Chang Weian. In Hakka research, have traditionally taught to their children and
generational migrations are an important tracker grandchildren.
71
位於台灣新竹縣新埔鎮博。面對全球客家的多樣化與區域會，致力維繫鄉親情誼。對傳承客家文
的褒忠亭義民廟，因林
爽文事件而建立，被列性，客家學門需要進行比較研究，運化，提供學術研究資料庫，有不可或缺
為縣定古蹟。
用跨學科的研究方法、觀點和理論，的貢獻。
Baozhong Temple in
Hsinchu’s Xinpu Township 進行跨領域的對話，提昇客家研究的張維安主編的《全球客家期刊》是
was established to
commemorate the Lin 幅員和層次。「2003年由中央大學全球客家研究溝通交流的平台。沒有地
Shuangwen Rebellion.
It is listed as a county 開始，國內學術機構相繼成立客家學理界線，不受時空拘束，透過學術研究
historic site.
院。」以學院為單位的制度性學術機及社區經驗的交流，累積客家研究的底
構，用專業的理論，科學的方法，對蘊。學術機構更藉由國際研討會，定期
客家語言、文學、歷史、社會、文集結研究論述。2018年11月13至15日由
化、政治、經濟、法律、政策等議交通大學客家文化學院主辦的跨域國際
題，進行全方位探討。近年更結合文研討會，韓、日、泰、美、印尼、馬來
學、社會、信仰、傳播、地理、語西亞、紐西蘭的學者均互相交換心得。
文、戲劇等進行跨學科的比較研究。全球客家研究聯盟諮詢會議中，由台灣
「公部門的投入，也是客家研究客家研究之特質，擴及跨領域初探與新
成為全球核心的巨大助力。」張維安領域的開拓，百花齊放的研究成果，已
說。成立17年的客家委員會，定期形塑全球客家研究中心的規模。海納百
召開全球客家文化會議、海外客家社川的客家風範，吸引全球好客雲集，齊
團負責人諮詢會議、全球客家懇親大心耕耘這片沃土。 □

“It’s worth considering,” says Hsu Cheng other.” Typically organized as colleges within
kuang, taking a new tack, “that you can only universities, these academic institutions use
pull up stakes and move your family long dis specialized theories and scientific methods
tances with a certain level of economic power.” to undertake multifaceted explorations of the
“It was with the support of the church,” notes Hakkas.
Chang Weian, “that whole families were able Publicsector support has also significantly
to move to Sabah, Malaysia.” It was only after assisted in bringing Hakka research into the
having first made living arrangements and lin global mainstream,” says Chang. Established
ing up work that they would collectively leave for 17 years, the Hakka Affairs Council has
for a new place and embark on new lives. held Global Hakka Cultural Meetings, Leader
New explorations, global perspective ship Council of Overseas Hakka Groups con
The scope of one’s vision determines the ferences, and World Hakka Conventions. It is
depth and breadth of one’s research. “Begin committed to maintaining bonds of friendship
ning with National Central University in 2003, with Hakka communities everywhere. With
academic institutions in Taiwan have estab regard to passing on the legacy of Hakka cul
lished Hakka studies programs one after an ture, academic research databases have made
a contribution that shouldn’t be overlooked.
Global Hakka Studies, which Chang edits,
serves as a communication platform for those
一百多年前，馬來西亞曾是客家族群的重點遷徙
interested in global Hakka research. With no
地。客家委員會客家文化發展中心於2018年9月
15日在台灣客家文化館舉辦「錫金歲月——客家 limits in terms of geography or era, the jour
馬來西亞錫礦展」。 nal, via exchanges about academic research
More than a century ago, Malaysia was a magnet
for Hakka migration. The Taiwan Hakka Culture and community experiences, collects the lat
Development Center of the Hakka Affairs Council
opened an exhibit on the Malaysian tin mines on est inside information about Hakka studies.
September 15, 2018 in its Taiwan Hakka Museum. Academic institutions also regularly bring
scholars together to share research results at
conferences. Last year, on November 13–15,
the College of Hakka Studies at National
Chiao Tung University held the 2018 Inter
national Conference on Interdisciplinary and
Transnational Hakka and Ethnic Studies,
which attracted scholars from Korea, Japan,
Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, and New
Zealand.
From a focus on the special concerns of
Taiwan Hakka studies, the Consortium of
Global Hakka Studies has expanded its scope
to introduce perspectives from new fields
and crossdisciplinary studies. Its many and
varied research achievements are on a scale
worthy of a global Hakka research center. The
burgeoning field of Hakka studies is being
nourished by powerful streams and attract
ing strong scholars to plow its fertile soils. l
(Lee Shan Wei/Lin Min-hsuan/
tr. by Jonathan Barnard)
73
島嶼行旅　AROUND TAIWAN
台灣味覺行腳
舌尖的未竟之旅
Tracing Taiwanese Tastes
—A Tour for the Palate
文•蘇俐穎　圖•莊坤儒　版面設計•胡如瑜

原生、移民與殖民的交融，廣納各方的台灣
飲食，恰似所謂「橫看成嶺側成峰，遠近高低各 “S een from the side, a whole range; from the end,
a single peak / Far or near, high or low, no
two parts alike.” These opening lines of a poem by
不同」，屢屢有著令人驚奇的發現。
Su Dongpo about China’s Lushan mountains could
equally be describing the variety found in Taiwan-
踏入獨擁兩層豪邸的山海樓，難以想像台北鬧
ese cuisine. A blend of indigenous, immigrant, and
區仍有這般的深宅大院存在，復刻1930年代的木 colonial contributions, the cuisine of Taiwan has a
雕花窗、牌樓石牆，猶如抵擋了時光，召喚出老 diversity that makes it full of surprises.
時代的風華。
在這樣的空間，端上了一道由鑲金瓷盤盛裝 Stepping into the luxurious Mountain & Sea House,
的「扁魚春捲」，酥黃餅皮，裹著由扁魚、銀 it can be hard to believe that such a sprawling complex,
complete with outdoor garden, could still exist in bust
芽、蝦仁製成的內餡，佐上一盅金澄的雞高
ling Taipei. With its oldfashioned, 1930sstyle wooden
湯；這一道可溯源至日治時代的「酒家菜」，
滋味清新俊逸，雖然看似熟稔，卻又令人有幾
許歡喜的陌生。
讓人知其然，卻不知其所以然的扁魚春捲，就像許多
在地食材，台味上菜老台菜，靜待我們挖掘其中的掌故、內蘊。
Flatfish spring rolls, like many popular Taiwanese dishes, have
近年，當「台灣菜」、「台灣味」成為下一波 tales behind them just waiting to be uncovered.
飲食趨勢的關鍵字，台菜也逐步扭轉只有清粥小
菜、海鮮快炒的刻板印象，如同山海樓這般兼顧
菜色、器皿、服務與空間的高檔餐廳，已然打破
過往「台灣沒有台灣菜」的成見。
根據長年研究台灣飲食文化的台灣師範大學台
灣語文學系副教授陳玉箴的觀察，當前的台菜浪
潮，醞釀已逾二十年。
約從1990年代末期開始。由於政府大力投入社
區總體營造，以「一鄉一特產」作為發展策略，
並積極舉辦節慶活動，好比白河蓮子節、東港黑
鮪魚節，創造經濟效益之餘，也為產地與本土食
材作了盤整。
「政策、論述與市場，三個環節緊緊相扣，若
只有藝文論述，卻沒有經濟效益，風潮也無法持
久。」陳玉箴說明。
尤其在2005年以後，名廚名家更積極表述，好比
海歸名廚江振誠舉辦「台灣味」論壇，飲食文化工
作者如葉怡蘭、陳淑華等人撰文不輟至今，逐一
廓清台灣飲食文化的脈絡，加上國內豐饒的農漁
牧物產作為強大後援，與消費市場的綜合效益，
使得台灣味的浪潮方興未艾，至今仍在持續。
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傳統台菜調味不多，僅點到為止，相當符合現代人的飲食風格。
Traditional Taiwanese dishes are lightly seasoned, making them a good fit for modern culinary tastes.
黃婉玲「阿舍菜」，以她的家族為例，甚至有因著婚
嫁之故，跟隨著新嫁娘傳入的「嫁妝菜」。
經典大菜重現於世
富豪之家的私房菜與餐廳菜的出發點截然不
千禧年之際，前總統陳水扁將碗粿、虱目魚同，不僅不計食材、時間成本，製作方式的繁瑣
丸湯端上國宴餐桌，接地氣、象徵著庶民飲食程度往往令人咋舌，同時還能傳遞出家族的背景
的台灣小吃，開始浮上檯面。與精神，相當精采，只是，由於製作方式密而不
台灣小吃壓倒性的鋒芒，甚至讓許多人認傳，加上社會結構轉變，多已不復存。
為，台灣只有小吃，沒有大菜。單純出於個人的好奇，也因著對老味道的喜
不過，出身府城世家的黃婉玲可不這麼認愛，約從三十年前，她即起即行，尋訪碩果僅存
為。的老師傅，受惠於成長環境養成的品味，以及家
她從家族記憶娓娓談起，原來，曾追隨著鄭族經營製糖事業，對於甜味的敏銳，布袋雞、五
成功來台的家族先祖，在台南建功封地，甚至柳枝魚、通心鰻等百多道老菜，重新端上餐桌。
以製糖為業，富甲一方。所謂的富過三代才懂黃婉玲說明，台灣由於移民的背景，人民生活
吃喝，正如她的寫照，富庶環境的生活環境，大多窮困，因此沒有餘裕發展出繁複的醬料，主
為她累積了豐富的飲食閱歷。要僅以鹽、糖、醬油、醋來調味，這也造就了台
台灣有大菜，無庸置疑。黃婉玲自身便可佐菜擅長表達食材原味的特性。
證，除了昔日因應政商酬酢之需，在酒樓吃的藉由鮮味的提調、食材的碰撞與交融，加上繁
「酒家菜」，好比著名的螺肉魷魚蒜，過去在複的重重手工，令許多菜餚雖然其來有自，卻能
大戶人家裡，還有由家廚掌杓，在花廳享用的原曲變奏，滋味更勝一籌。

window frames and stone arches, the restaurant recalls the It all began in the late 1990s. The government was invest-
glory of a time gone by. ing heavily in community empowerment, launching the
Here one can enjoy “cabaret cuisine” (jiujiacai) that goes “a specialty product for every township” strategy for rural
back to the Japanese era, featuring items such as flatfish development and holding a variety of festivals and events like
spring rolls—stir-fried flatfish, beansprouts, and shrimp the Baihe Lotus Festival and the Donggang Bluefin Tuna Fes-
meat wrapped in crispy, golden spring roll wrappers, served tival. Beyond their economic benefits, such events also helped
in gold-edged porcelain bowls with a side helping of chicken consolidate pricing and production of various foodstuffs.
broth. Fresh and flavorsome, while these dishes seem famil- Since 2005, through efforts such as celebrated chef An-
iar, they nevertheless have a pleasing unfamiliarity to them. dré Chiang’s Taiwan Flavor Symposium and a continuing
Local flavors on Taiwanese tables stream of articles by culinary culture experts like Yeh Yilan
Recent years have seen Taiwanese cuisine become a key and Chen Shuhua, the context of Taiwanese food culture
focus of the next wave of dining trends. Taiwanese food has gradually been clarified. Moreover, the strength of the
has gradually begun to escape the stereotype that it com- domestic agriculture and fisheries industries and consumer
prises little more than congee and stir-fried seafood, with market synergies have helped the rise of Taiwanese flavors
high-end restaurants like Mountain & Sea House bringing continue to this day.
together dishes, tableware, service, and spaces to shatter the
old idea that there’s no such thing as “Taiwanese cuisine.”
According to Chen Yu-jen, an associate professor of Tai-
wan Culture, Languages and Literature at National Taiwan
學成以後的黃婉玲，獨資開設烹飪教室，矢志將失傳的
Normal University and a long-time researcher of Taiwan- 老菜重新發揚。
After completing her studies, Huang Wan-ling set up her own
ese culinary culture, this new wave of Taiwanese cuisine culinary classroom to help rediscover traditional dishes on the
has been brewing for more than two decades. verge of disappearing.
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正好比中菜各大菜系都有的香酥鴨，但台菜
的香酥鴨，經過滷、蒸、炸等重重工序，連骨
頭都酥綿可食，臻至「屍骨無存」。
蘇紋雯、陶桂槐
家庭餐桌上的族群融合
是以料理的保存，須扎根於日復一日的操
演。大菜如此，家常菜亦如是。
當台灣以美食聞名，弔詭的是，台灣人卻越來
談飲食可不只是紙上談兵的文史工作，
越少開伙為自己做飯。前些日子，美食家王宣一
親自操作、享用，才能將文化傳承下去。
Cuisine is not something simply to be written about from a 驟逝，詹宏志便回憶著，許多她所擅長製作的家
historical perspective, but rather should be engaged with
through the making and enjoying of dishes if one truly wants 味，過去往往習以為常，竟就瞬間絕世。
to keep the traditions alive.
「家常菜、家滋味，和餐館裡常見的菜不一
樣，若沒有日日操作的人，一代代地去傳承，
其實非常難保存。」對此，蘇紋雯心有戚戚。
她與大學學妹陶桂槐共同創辦的「魚麗人文
共同廚房」，全然另闢蹊徑，以商業空間的力
對黃婉玲來說，每道菜背後，
都藏著一段與老師傅真心交陪的回憶，量，矢志收藏民間流傳的家味。
滋味流轉在舌尖，也在心裡。魚麗的起家菜「桂花鹹水鴨」，滋味腴潤鮮
For Huang Wan-ling, each dish comes with memories of
learning it from an old chef, and those tales are passed 爽，吃來齒頰留香，便是源於蘇紋雯的母親。
along through the taste buds and to the heart.
雖是家庭料理，但可不表示就簡單做。魚麗
也有幾道功夫菜，如江浙名菜的蘇式燻魚、四
喜烤麩、十香菜，但教她們的不是餐館裡的師
傅，而是來自餐飲名門、永福樓創辦人的遺孀
葉林月英。
「據說，當年永福樓的熟客，一年可以上葉
府吃一次家宴。」蘇紋雯說。即便是費工的宴
客菜，依舊不脫「家味」的軸線。
會形成此獨特的經營方式，其實一點兒也不
奇怪。
十多年以前，彼時身體微恙的蘇紋雯，為了
養傷，當時同居一個屋簷下的兩人便日日開
伙，因著人少難做菜，索性邀集十來位的好友
來到家裡輪流下廚。
當背景不同的人們齊聚一堂，信手捻來的家
常菜南轅北轍，這讓蘇紋雯開始察覺到，原來
家家戶戶都來都有幾道私藏的手路菜。
正如同當時的光景，這樣日日更替、擁抱
各方菜系的用餐模式，也孕育出日後館子的
經營模型。

the cabaret cuisine that evolved in response to the need
Huang Wan-ling: to entertain political or business guests, Huang also
Bringing classics back to life points to the fare known as “a-sià dishes,” which would
At a dinner celebrating the turn of the millennium, be prepared in the homes of wealthy families and en
thenpresident Chen Shuibian presided over a banquet joyed in a lounge room.
that featured local dishes like milkfish fish ball soup and The meals produced in the private kitchens of such
savory uánn-kué rice pudding. This was an indication that wealthy homes were starkly different from those made
folk cuisine was making its way to higherclass tables. in restaurants. Private kitchens, for one, did not have
The overwhelming popularity of Taiwanese street to worry as much about the cost of ingredients or the
food (xiaochi) has led many people to believe that that is preparation time needed, and so the ways such meals
all Taiwanese cuisine has to offer. were made could be staggeringly complex. Furthermore,
Huang Wanling, who comes from a family with a the dishes prepared would often communicate the back
long history in Tainan, begs to differ. ground and spirit of the family, sometimes in spectacular
Her family can trace its roots in Taiwan back to fashion. However, with the recipes of such dishes gener
the 17th century, when her ancestors followed Zheng ally closely guarded secrets, as time passed and the struc
Chenggong to Taiwan and established themselves in the ture of society changed, many of them were lost.
sugar business. They say that it takes three generations
of wealth to truly appreciate the finer things, and over
the generations, Huang’s family laid the foundations of
her own culinary expertise. 蘇紋雯（左）與陶桂槐（右），兩個女人打造出如家一般的
Taiwan has as much of a heritage in gourmet cuisine 溫暖小館子。
Su Wenwen (left) and Tao Guihuai (right) have together created
as in folk cuisine, that is beyond doubt. In addition to a little restaurant with the warmth of home.
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半路出家的陶桂槐，
因著四處學菜，也療
癒了失親的遺憾。
Tao Guihuai came to
cooking late. Through
the process of traveling
around and learning new
dishes, she found a way
to come to terms with
losing a parent.
如今的魚麗，四菜一湯的套餐，菜單融貫大執業13年，像這樣出於各樣因緣際會，逐步
江南北、日日變換，正是主要特色之一。累積下的菜譜，已超過千道，「這些是人生紀
餐桌上的共冶一爐，對蘇紋雯來說一點兒也不念品。」蘇紋雯說得珍重。
奇怪，本省家庭長大的她回憶著，昔日生活的嘉由她們所照顧的家暴婦女，同樣也是學習的
義老家，與空軍眷村正相隔著一條街，母親拿手對象。採用肥美的豬五花絞肉與豬皮，再添上
的桂花鹹水鴨，實則是南京名菜，還有鄰居浙江紅麴增色熬煮成的紅麴肉燥；另一道化骨秋刀
奶奶的荷葉粉蒸肉，都是熟悉的家味。魚，以洋蔥番茄醬汁同燒，再經過壓力鍋的淬
「在那個年代，省籍意識還很強烈，但奇怪鍊，不僅入味，連骨頭都可以食用。
的，餐桌上就是沒有。」她說。口味討喜、營養豐足，且方便一次大量製作
可見得，吃，常是最單純直接的方式，表達的媽媽菜，仍是一貫的母親本色，絲毫沒有半
了和解與包容。分的自艾與怨嘆。
由於年輕時遭遇到未婚懷孕的人生急轉彎，近來在套餐上頻頻出現的滇緬菜，則來自
性情溫軟的蘇紋雯，總不忍旁觀他人痛苦。於她們的朋友、在台灣相當少數的泰緬孤軍
經營館子的她，在許多關鍵時刻，自然而然地後裔。
選擇以食物作為媒介，為許多走投無路的人，源自雲南的辣醃菜炒肉末，與來自緬甸的茶
提供身心的安頓。豆沙拉與黃金三角包，這是一般泰緬餐廳也罕
好比一連4年，藉每月探視的機會，為冤錯案見的邊境鄉土菜，濃凜鮮爽的滋味，不僅是移
的受刑人鄭性澤送上便當，直到無罪獲釋。食民身世的註記，也如無言的家書。
物成為不需言明的交流，特地為茹素的鄭性澤因此，食物是支持，也是賦權，每一道菜餚
開發了兩百多道素食料理，道道都傳達出對死背後都是身世與人情的流轉。
囚的聲援，鄭性澤的母親則傳授了苗栗老家酸不論生活再怎樣艱難，都能在同一張餐桌上
柑茶的作法，成為店裡的飲品之一。被圓融。

Out of a combination of personal curiosity and a taste
for oldfashioned dishes, about 30 years ago Huang set
out to visit the few remaining old master chefs to learn
from them. With their guidance and the benefit of her
own background and the tastes it had cultivated in her,
she was able to pick up over 100 of these classic dishes.
Su Wenwen and Tao Guihuai:
Ethnic fusion on the family table

The preservation of cuisines has to be rooted in day
to-day efforts. This is as true for home-style cooking as it
is for gourmet cuisine.
While Taiwan is famous for its food, paradoxically
fewer and fewer Taiwanese are actually cooking for them
selves. When wellknown foodie Wang Hsuanyi passed
away a few years ago, her widower, Jan Hungtze, re
called that many of the dishes she excelled at and which
had become so familiar to him essentially died with her.
“Family recipes are different from the food you see in
restaurants. If there’s no one to make them regularly and
to pass them down, it can be almost impossible to keep
them alive.” This is something that deeply concerns Su
Wenwen. 魚麗的料理，道道都藏著一段曲折、令人動容的故事。
上：辣醃菜炒肉末；中：化骨秋刀魚；下：酸柑茶。
Together with college friend Tao Guihuai, she founded The dishes of Yuli Common Kitchen each come with their
Yuli Common Kitchen, with which the pair have chosen own fascinating, convoluted tales. Pictured here: pork and
pickled peppers stir fry (top); slow-cooked swordfish (above);
to forge a new trail, harnessing the power of a com and bitter orange tea (below).
mercial space to collect and pass along family recipes.
The dish they began with, brined duck with osman
thus, leaves a lingering, fresh flavor in the mouth. They
got it from Su’s mother.
It might be a homecooked recipe, but that doesn’t
mean it’s simple. Yuli also prepares other, more gourmet
recipes, including wellknown Jiangsu and Zhejiang dishes
like Suzhoustyle smoked fish, deepfried sliced gluten
with “four joys” (daylily, black fungus, bamboo shoots,
and mushrooms) and teningredient mixed vegetables.
However, these weren’t taught to Tao and Su by chefs
from highend restaurants, but rather by YeLin Yueying,
widow of the founder of Taipei’s Yun Fu Lou Restaurant.
“They say that back in the day, regulars of Yun Fu
Lou would get invited to the Ye household once a year
for some home cooking,” says Su. Despite the dishes be
ing laborintensive, they’re still built around homestyle
cooking.
The path that led to this way of doing business is, in
retrospect, not at all surprising.
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A bit over a decade ago, as Su was recovering from
陳靜宜
an illness, she and Tao decided to begin cooking for
華人飲食系譜之對照 themselves. With it much easier to cook for a group,
though, she invited a group of friends over, who then
包容性強大的台灣菜，無私地擁抱了各方門
started taking turns cooking for everyone.
派，因此，想透闢地了解背後的來龍去脈，海
This group, hailing from a variety of backgrounds,
外的探索成為了必然。 began to share their family recipes, and Su started to
始於馬來西亞友人的熱情邀約。飲食作家， realize that every home had its own few specialties.
同時也是資深美食記者陳靜宜，選擇馬來西亞 It was from that rotating roster and open embrace
作為海外考察的第一站。 of all kinds of dishes that the recipe for Yuli Common
台南女兒的她，踏上了美食之都檳城，才驚 Kitchen grew.
Today, the restaurant’s menu spans dishes from all
訝地發覺此地與故鄉有許多肖似之處。
over Greater China, changing every day but always
好比與閩南語相近的福建話、多樣化的庶民
offering a set meal of four dishes and a soup. This has
小吃，加上當地人在文化上若有似無的優越感 become the restaurant’s trademark.
⋯⋯「彷彿是在不同的國度，有一群人過著與 Su herself was already no stranger to this kind of
台灣如此相似的生活。」她這樣形容。 sharing of meals from all over. She still remembers
與庶民生活相濡以沫的小吃，更猶如孿生倒 how, when she was a little girl, her mother would take
影。台灣的擔仔麵，猶如此地的蝦麵；台灣的 some of her brined duck with osmanthus over to the
neighbors in the air force dependents’ community a
雞捲，換了名字叫滷肉；甚至是客家擂茶，被
street over and then come back with some freshly made
稱作河婆擂茶，只是滋味由甜轉為鹹⋯⋯種種
若合符節，隱約透漏了彼此的身世秘密。
「那個驚豔感，實在很難用言語表達。」陳
靜宜回憶著第一次接觸到馬華飲食的心情。
這樣的心情，開啟了之後2年，6∼7趟不辭千
里的密集遠行，每次停留動輒半個月以上，累
積下將近300家的飲食閱歷。
曾經考據過台灣飲食的她，終於從千絲萬縷
的線索裡，發現了台馬兩地的華人，如出一轍
的身世。原來，昔時先民為了討生活，勇於橫
渡險惡的黑水溝，到台島開墾；同樣在清末時
代，也有閩粵地區的人民，以性命作為賭注，
下南洋討生活。
（左圖）移民縈繞於心的家鄉味，一般泰緬餐廳極難見的
茶豆沙拉。
(facing page) Simple comfort foods from home can be hard for
immigrants to find at restaurants—for example, this laphet thoke
(tealeaf salad), a popular dish in Myanmar and Thailand, is a
rarity in Burmese and Thai restaurants in Taiwan.
（右圖）吃遍街坊，深入考究，陳靜宜認為食物的背後總是
有人的故事。
Having explored in depth and dined all over, Chen Ching-yi has
found that behind each dish there is a human story.
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移民往往攜帶著原鄉的口味，在異地生出新好，與台南人相較甚至有過之而無不及。
貌，由於台馬華人系出同源，又身世相似，因此而台南地區其實潮州人口不少。好比街頭巷尾
造就了兩地的食物既陌生又親近的特性。常見的三山國王廟，便是潮州人的祭祀中心；或
曾經考據過台灣飲食的她，視野瞬間擴大，者是潮汕口味的沙茶火鍋、汕頭魚麵的店家等。
像從受限的斷代史提升到通史，從微距進展到全也許台南人如此嗜甜，便是受潮汕口味的影響。
幅，「一口氣拉高了我對食物的立體感、空間感「瞭解得越多，再回頭來看，雖然是同一道
與時間感。」她這樣形容。菜，看的角度也已不再相同。」陳靜宜說。
陳靜宜說明，過往因為場域囿限於台灣，難免以移民為主的台灣，每一道菜餚，背後都象徵
有許多瓶頸，但藉由不同地區華人飲食的對照，了一個超乎想像、枝蔓橫生的文化系譜。
尤其是與台灣較親近的中國沿海、東南亞，也能到底什麼是台灣菜、台灣味？難以用三言兩語
順勢解開許多久懸未決的疑問。說明，或許多元混成、面貌難辨正是台灣飲食的
她以台南人愛吃甜來說明。不少人以為台南人宿命，但更重要的是，能在尋找答案的過程，因
嗜甜，是因為過去產蔗糖，有錢人想藉著吃糖以彰著了解，懂得接納彼此的不同。
顯身分地位，「但台灣到處都有糖廠，況且，吃糖恰如陳靜宜所說：「討論台菜，不是要講從哪
也不是唯一詮釋身分的方式。」她發出疑問。裡來，才是正宗，而是去知道它的脈絡；因為知
直到造訪過潮汕，她才察覺當地人對甜味的喜道過去，才可以走向未來。」 l
每一道看似尋常的料理，背後都連結著廣大的文化系譜。
Even the most seemingly ordinary dish can have an extensive cultural pedigree.

Nan jing food, and how an older neighbor originally better life, in the late Qing era a similar migration from
from Zhe jiang would share her lotusleafwrapped the Fujian–Guangdong region saw settlers make new
steamed pork with sticky rice with them. lives in Southeast Asia.
“Even though back in those days people really cared Emigrants often take with them the flavors of their
about where your family was from, at the dinner table homes and give them new looks in their new lands.
none of that mattered,” she says. It is that similarity in origins that makes the cuisines
Food really can be the most straightforward way to of Malaysia and Taiwan simultaneously familiar and
bring people together in acceptance and tolerance. strange to the peoples of each location.
With this realization, Chen found her world sud
Chen Ching-yi: denly expanded with a new awareness of history not
Comparing Chinese cuisines as a series of fragmented events, but as a constant flow.
Taiwanese cuisine has a tendency to be very welcom Armed with a newfound appreciation for the bigger
ing to dishes of all kinds, so often picture, “it was as if cuisine took
times if you want to seek out on a whole new sense of space
the roots of a dish, you’ll find and time,” she comments.
yourself having to head abroad In the past, she explains,
to explore. having restricted her scope just
For veteran food writer to Taiwan meant she hit a lot of
Chen Chingyi, that exploration dead ends, but by comparing
began with a warm invitation Taiwanese dishes with those
from a Malaysian friend. in other Chinese communities,
Raised in Tai nan, she was especially those closer to Tai
surprised to find so many simil- wan such as the Chinese coast
arities with that hometown and Southeast Asia, she was
when she set foot in Malaysia’s gradually able to find answers
gourmet capital, Penang. to a number of longstanding
The street food, similarly questions.
born of a need to make do with “The more you know,” says
meager resources, was strangely reminiscent of that Chen, “the more of a different perspective you get when
found in Tainan. The taⁿ-a-mi (also known as danzi noo you look back at the same dish.”
dles) of Taiwan had its counterpart in the local shrimp In Taiwan, a nation primarily of settlers and migrants,
noodles, Taiwan’s “chicken rolls” (actually pork rolls) each dish has a story and cultural pedigree behind it
were known as lor bak, and even Hakka lei cha was that is almost beyond imagining.
available, albeit in a savory form rather than the sweet So in the end, what actually is Taiwanese cuisine?
Taiwanese style. The comparisons between the two re That is a difficult question to answer succinctly, and
vealed the little secrets of their respective pasts. perhaps that lack of clarity is to be its fate. What is more
With this experience under her belt, Chen spent the important, though, is that the process of looking for the
next two years traveling thousands of miles on half a answer leads us to greater understanding and, through
dozen trips of two weeks at a time, accumulating re that understanding, acceptance of the differences be
cipes and histories from some 300 restaurants. tween us.
Having already thoroughly looked into Taiwanese As Chen Chingyi says, when we talk about Taiwanese
cuisine, Chen followed hundreds of clues and threads cuisine, we should be less concerned with where it came
to find that the Chinese communities of Taiwan and from than with how it got here, because it is by knowing
Malaysia ultimately share a common origin. your past that you can move forward into the future. l
Just as early migrants to Taiwan arrived on the is (Lynn Su/photos by Chuang Kungju/
land having braved the perilous Taiwan Strait to find a tr. by Geof Aberhart)
85
島嶼行旅　AROUND TAIWAN
破風‧觀海‧追夕陽
苗栗海線騎行
Cycling the Miaoli Coast
—Wind, Sea and Sunsets
文•鄧慧純　圖•莊坤儒　版面設計•蕭郢岑
談文車站
Tanwen Station
大山車站
Dashan Station
好望角
Haowangjiao
白沙屯拱天宮
Gong Tian Temple
石蓮園
Shilian Yuan
新埔車站
Xinpu Station
苑裡掀海風
Say Hi Home

故事可追溯到1922年，鐵道海線通
車了，運輸南來北往的物資，也帶起
沿線城鎮的繁榮。但隨著高速公路開
通，鐵路貨運為公路取代，海線榮景
不再；但列車依舊奔馳在稻穗與浪花
間，獨留的幾座近百年的木造車站則
成為鐵道文化珍貴的記憶空間。
苗栗的海線風光還不僅於此，白沙
屯的拱天宮媽祖廟，還有苑裡的返鄉
青年「掀海風」，都是一路上美麗的
風景。
以海線為軸，以自行車的速度和自
由，隨興追著火車，我們騎行在台61
號線，一探苗栗海線的故事。
O ur story can be traced back to 1922,

when the coastal railroad (offici
ally known as the West Coast Line) was
opened to traffic. The movement of goods
between north and south brought prosper
ity to cities and towns along the rail line.
Since the construction of the freeways,
goods have been transported by highway
instead of by rail, and the coast is no lon
ger as affluent. But train cars still run to
day between the rice fields and the waves,
and the few remaining wooden train sta
tions, nearly 100 years old, have become
precious spaces for memories of railroad
culture.
在西湖溪出海口邊取景，
可將風車、火車、海濤一併收入景框內。
A photo taken at the mouth of the Xihu River, with
wind turbines, a train, and ocean water all in a
single composition.
87
山海線是台鐵最讓人流連的風景，北端從竹南談文、大山、新埔三座車站格局相仿，從1922年啟用至今已近
百年，仍保存原初樣貌，成為見證海線鐵路創建的歷史建築。
站分道揚鑣後，又再殊途同歸於彰化站。鐵道迷 The Tanwen, Dashan, and Xinpu train stations all have similar
layouts. It is nearly 100 years since they first opened in 1922, but
暱稱的「海線五寶」（5座日式木造車站）中， they retain their original appearance, bearing witness to the early
history of the coastal rail line.
談文、大山、新埔三座車站都在苗栗境內。
遊海線、追火車
此趟騎行的起點就從談文站開始。早年作為造計算著從龍港往白沙屯的列車時刻，我們守株待
橋木炭、公館紅瓦及南庄煤礦等貨物的轉運點，兔，就等著火車駛過三叉河橋，按響喀嚓喀嚓的
談文站因之興盛。大山站位在苗栗後龍，原名為快門聲。
大山腳驛。位在通霄的新埔車站，是西部幹線離下一個景點要奮力騎上苗33號鄉道，上到鄰近
台灣海峽最近的車站，一出站就能看到海。的制高點「好望角」。從好望角可遠眺湛藍的台灣
這幾座造型古樸的驛站，啟用於1922年，迄海峽，海濤如白馬奔騰舞動著，豎立在岸邊的大
今已近百年的歷史，站體以杉木建造，三角形屋型風力機組兀自在風中刷刷地轉動，將海線風景
脊、Y字形廊柱、牛眼窗及夯土牆為其特徵；海盡收眼底。強風中，我們還是等著火車，奔馳過
線車站雖因鐵路運量萎縮，以致周邊發展停滯，綠地，留下身影，才滿足地收了鏡頭。
卻也因禍得福，得以保存原初樣貌，成為見證海附近還有「舊過港隧道」值得探訪，已退役
線鐵路創建的歷史建築。的三座隧道是全國海拔最低的隧道，1970年
續行回到台61線上，我們繼續破風。這路線上代因鐵路電氣化，鐵路改線，三座隧道走入歷
有兩個鐵道迷「呷好道相報」不可錯過的鐵道攝史。隧道內部運用圓拱力學原理堆疊紅磚成漂
影景點，在106.3公里處，下到一旁的小路可近亮的馬蹄鐵弧形，頂部還留有被蒸汽火車燻黑
西湖溪出海口，朝西面取景，風車、火車、海濤的痕跡。如今隧道改成自行車道，打上燈光，供
一併收入景框內，傍晚時分，還多了夕陽入鏡。民眾散步騎行。

Yet the scenery along the Miaoli coast is not limited Traveling the seacoast
to train stations. There is also Gong Tian Temple in We start our bicycle journey at Tanwen Station, and our
Baishatun, dedicated to the goddess Mazu, as well as path carries us to the Dashan and Xinpu stations.
the “Say Hi Home” workshop for young people return These stations, of simple and unsophisticated design,
ing to their hometown. There is beautiful scenery all were first used in 1922, so by now they have nearly 100
the way. years of history behind them. Constructed of Cunninghamia
Following the route of the coastal line, with the wood, the buildings have a variety of common features,
speed and freedom of bicycles, we ride along Provincial including pitched roofs, branching pillars, œil-de-bœuf (“ox
Highway 61 in search of stories of the Miaoli seacoast. eye”) windows, and rammedearth walls. Though develop
ment around West Coast Line stations stagnated because of
The coastal rail line and the older “mountain line” (the the decline in rail traffic, this cloud has a silver lining: It has
Taichung Line) provide the most captivating scenery of enabled the stations’ original appearance to be preserved, as
any of the railroads of the Taiwan Railways Adminis historical structures that testify to the line’s past.
tration. Of the five Japanese-style wooden train stations We continue our journey along Provincial Highway 61.
along the West Coast Line (known to railway enthusiasts Rail fans have told us of two can’tmiss sights for photo
as the “five treasures of the coastal line”), three—Tan graphy along this route. At the highway’s 106.3 kilometer
wen, Dashan, and Xinpu—are located in Miaoli County. mark, a side road leads down to the mouth of the Xihu
River. From there you can get a shot
of wind turbines, trains, and ocean
waves together in one frame, and
when evening comes you can add the
setting sun into the picture.
To reach the next scenic spot, we
have to work hard riding up Miaoli
County Road 33 to the commanding
height of Haowangjiao, from where
you can see the deep blue Taiwan
Strait in the distance, the gigantic
wind turbines along the coast, and a
panoramic view of the coastline. In
the strong wind, we wait for a train
to come coursing through the ver
dant land, so that we can capture its
image. Only then do we contentedly
pack up our cameras.
Another sight worth exploring is
the nearby Old Guogang Tunnel—
in fact a sequence of three tunnels.
When the West Coast line was electri
fied in the 1970s, its route was altered
to avoid the tunnels, which were
abandoned. Today the old route, com
牛眼窗是談文、大山、新埔三座日式木造車站 plete with the beautiful horseshoe
共有的特徵，為站體增添美感。
shaped bricklined tunnels, has been
The Japanese-style wooden train stations at
Tanwen, Dashan, and Xinpu all have ox-eye transformed into a bicycle trail with
windows, which add a sense of beauty to the
structures. colorful lighting.
89
從好望角遠眺，農田、風車、海峽，不時還可遇見火車奔馳過綠地的身影。
Gazing out from Haowangjiao, farms, wind turbines, and the Taiwan Strait are all visible, along with the
occasional sight of a train coursing through the greenery.
隧道外有過港貝化石層，整塊裸露的山壁，挾 Shilian Yuan: Front-row sea views

雜著無數的貝殼化石，考據這塊山丘在距今100 Leaving Highway 61 to follow a small road near the
sea we come to the Shilian Yuan railcar restaurant. Shi
萬至600萬年前，位於淺海中，如今則距離海岸
lian Yuan, now in its 17th year, is a special sight along the
線0.5公里遠，見證了台灣陸地隆升的演變史，宛
coastal line. Retired railroad cars have been repurposed
如活的地理教室。
as spaces to operate a restaurant and a homestay.
Owner Luo Shilian, whose home is in nearby Baisha
石蓮園──海景第一排的火車餐廳
tun, tested into the Taiwan Railways Administration in
騎下台61線，沿著靠海的小路直行即可見火 1970. He witnessed the days when steam trains ran along
車餐廳「石蓮園」。經營已邁入第17年的石 the rail lines, and each day he rode the trains to work and
蓮園是海線上特殊的景點，把廢棄的火車車廂 back, working at the TRA for 33 years.
拿來做空間利用，開餐廳、做民宿。 Luo’s job once took him to India, and there he traveled
in sleeper cars, providing him with a fresh and fun experi
家就住在白沙屯，老闆駱石蓮讀書的時候也
ence that he couldn’t get in Taiwan. He thought to himself:
是搭著火車，走海線到竹南念書。1970年考入台
“After I retire, it would be good to take a couple of trains
鐵，駱石蓮經歷蒸汽火車還在鐵道上奔馳的日 home with me to turn into a restaurant and homestay.”
子，每天搭著火車上下班，在鐵路局工作一晃眼 First Luo bought five 30ton railway carriages at the
就是33年。 price of scrap metal, NT$1.2 per kilogram. Little did he ex
曾因公務考察到印度，體驗當地臥鋪列車之 pect that the transportation costs would amount to NT$1
旅，新鮮又有趣，是台灣沒有的經驗，駱石蓮想 million, it taking two nights to transport the cars by truck
from Kaohsiung to Miaoli. Because of the carriages’ height
著：「退休後，弄兩台火車回去做餐廳、民宿也
and length, they could only travel on ordinary roads, and
不錯。」

「舊過港隧道」現已改為自行車道，運用
圓拱力學原理堆疊紅磚而成的馬蹄鐵弧形，
頂部還留有被蒸汽火車燻黑的痕跡。
The Old Guogang Tunnel has been
transformed into a bicycle path. The red
bricks that line the horseshoe-shaped vaulted
structure are still stained black with traces of
smoke from the days of steam engines.
91
駱石蓮把廢棄的火車車廂
拿來做空間利用，饒富
時代記憶。
Luo Shilian uses
decommissioned railroad
carriages, rich in the
memories of days gone by,
as spaces for a restaurant
and homestay.
但買車容易，運送難。當初他以廢鐵價1公斤早年許多宮廟都有徒步進香的傳統，只是隨著時
1.2元買入5台30噸的車廂，沒料到運費卻要價100 代的進步，當其他人改搭遊覽車進香時，只有白
萬，從高雄運到苗栗，花了兩個晚上。因為車廂沙屯媽祖還傻傻堅持徒步。而每回出門飄忽不定
超高超長，只能趁夜間行駛平面道路，遇到平交的路線，是媽祖與在地居民的結連，白沙屯媽祖
道需申請斷電，把電線撐高，讓貨車通過，再請會主動去找信眾，直接與信眾互動，也因此每年
出50噸的吊車兩台，才把車廂安置在鐵軌上。數萬人的追隨，路程上每一雙合十祈拜的手，每
駱石蓮指著車內的設備，「這600型車體是日個人都有屬於自己跟媽祖的故事。
本人在1940年代製作的，至今不鏽鋼行李架、窗拱天宮的媽祖故事更是多元而精采，在當地
戶，都還完好，可以想見日本技術的品質。」耆老的口述中，有著換錯媽祖、神轎潦過濁水溪
鐵道餐廳開幕至今，仍吸引許多遊客來訪，鐵等各種版本。「民間信仰其實反映著當地人的生
道迷來看門道、內裝，研究車底的轉向架，許多活方式。」林幸福說，先民在白沙屯的生活並不
民眾則來重拾當年搭普通車的回憶，平日觀浪、輕鬆，應付著秋冬兩季每日吹拂的東北季風，生
黃昏賞夕陽，這邊堪稱海景第一排。活環境困頓、不穩定性高，加深居民對媽祖的依
賴與虔敬，媽祖因之成為在地居民的心靈寄託，
白沙屯拱天宮──好與信眾互動的媽祖
也衍生出白沙屯媽祖沒有固定行程的進香路線，
造訪海線，不能錯過苗栗海線的信仰中心── 「因為每天要面對生活中諸多的不確定因素，所
白沙屯拱天宮，這座幅員不算大的地方廟，每年以白沙屯媽祖進香到現在還留有這樣的線索。」
農曆三月媽祖生，吸引了眾多信徒跟著媽祖徒林幸福說。
步到雲林北港朝天進香，全程四百多公里，而其實，此趟苗栗騎行之旅不巧安排在冬季，
且無固定行程、路線，前進轉彎，全憑媽祖的今年雖是暖冬，但沿海地區的東北季風依舊展現
意識。無比的威力，吹得人昏頭轉向，站都站不穩，林
這樣的特色，拱天宮委員林幸福解釋是因為幸福笑說我們選錯日子了，但也是實地經驗這一
「白沙屯太守舊了，守舊到最後反變成特色」。遭，才知道當地生活的不易。

only at night. Wherever the convoy would traverse a times, others have gone over to allowing worshippers to
railway level crossing, they had to apply for the electric- arrive by tour bus, with only Baishatun still insisting that
ity to be shut off and the power lines raised so that the people approach Mazu on foot. And each time that Mazu
trucks could pass through. Finally Luo had to hire two goes out on her meandering trail, this provides a chance
50-ton cranes to lift the cars onto the rails laid down for for the goddess to connect with local residents. The Bai-
them at the site. shatun Mazu takes the initiative to seek out believers, and
Since its opening, the railroad restaurant has attracted as a result each “inspection tour” she makes gives rise to
numerous travelers. This place, where you can gaze out many moving stories of believers’ experiences of her.
over the ocean and admire the sunset at dusk, really does There are also various colorful stories surrounding the
offer “front-row” views of the sea. Gong Tian Temple Mazu herself. From the mouths of lo-
Gong Tian Temple cal elders one hears tales of the wrong Mazu statue being
When you visit the Miaoli coast, you shouldn’t miss brought back to Baishatun, or of the deity’s palanquin
the local center of faith: Gong Tian Temple in Baishatun. being carried through the waters of the Zhuoshui River
Each year at Mazu’s birthday, in the third lunar month, at her own behest. “Folk beliefs reflect local people’s way
the faithful come from all over Taiwan to walk alongside of life,” says Lin Xingfu. He explains these stories from
the goddess on her procession to Chao-Tian Temple in another angle—that they reveal a dependence on Mazu.
Beigang, Yunlin County, and back to Baishatun. The jour- The lives of Baishatun’s early settlers were not easy. Hav-
ney covers more than 400 kilometers and has no fixed ing to cope with the powerful northeast monsoon winds
itinerary, with the twists and turns along the way all be- that blow daily in the fall and winter, as well as the vag-
ing decided according to Mazu’s will. aries of life in a harsh environment, deepened residents’
This tradition exists because, as Gong Tian Temple com- reliance on Mazu. “People had to face uncertainties in
mittee member Lin Xingfu explains, “Baishatun sticks to life every day, and there are still threads of this in the
the old ways, so much so that it has become distinctive.” worship of the Baishatun Mazu today,” says Lin.
In earlier times many temples had the tradition of people In fact, winter is a somewhat inopportune time for
coming to them on foot to worship, but with changing our bicycle trip. Although this winter has been warm, the
白沙屯拱天宮是
苗栗海線的信仰
中心。
Gong Tian Temple
in Baishatun is a
center of faith for
the coastal region
of Miaoli County.
93
劉育育（左）和林秀芃（右）是「掀海風」工作室最初的創辦人，她們要從被動地被海風「搧」巴掌，
轉為主動「掀」起改變的風潮。
Liu Yuyu (left) and Lin Hsiu Peng (right), the original founders of the Say Hi Home workshop, were inspired by
the wish for a transformation from passive acceptance to actively initiating change.
從這角度考察，這樣的氣候，形成了如此的習「返」，「第一個是社會運動的反對，第二個是
俗，連帶影響了白沙屯人的性格。17歲那年就跟著返回鄉土的『返』，回到自己的原鄉。」林秀
徒步進香的林幸福說：「我在其中看到白沙屯人不芃說。
認輸的性格，有什麼事情我可以做的，都可以做看從接觸土地開始，重拾人與土地的連結，是重
看。」與林幸福的一席話，猶如進行了一場社會學新認識苑裡的起點，也是掀海風的第一步。她們
的觀察，也恰巧印證了文化是人類適應環境尋求生踏遍大街小巷做田野調查，協助友善農友解決缺
存的課題，是此趟行程的意外之趣。工及販售通路的問題，也嘗試重新找回苑裡曾經
輝煌的藺草編織產業，把藺草種回土裡，再找回
掀海風──從反到返，找回人與土地的連結
已三十多年沒編織的阿嬤們，鼓勵她們編織，要
繼續往南，車行到苗栗最南、也是此趟旅程把這門手工藝再傳下去。
最後一站苑裡。轉進新興路，我們要去拜訪去台灣曾經的經濟起飛，帶來了富裕，但代價是
（2018）年8月剛開幕的「掀冊店」書店，這邊把地球資源像石油一樣燃燒，到了林秀芃她們這
是苑裡「掀海風」工作團隊的基地，也是苑裡小個世代，經濟成長固然是重要的事，但一群人更
鎮第一家獨立書店。思考著：與土地產生連結的產業是什麼樣子？台
「掀海風」工作室由一群七八年級生組成，劉灣未來微型經濟的模式是什麼樣子？
育育和林秀芃是最初的創辦人，她們因苑裡「反 2015年，苑裡「掀海風」團隊把田野調查的成
瘋車」社會運動而結識，歷經多次事件後反思，果轉成小旅行的形式，帶領大家去苑裡天下路老
「如果（社會）運動要走下去，抗爭只是一時，街的帽蓆行、看已有120年歷史的老市場，或是
但如果要讓社會往好的方向改變，那麼回到土被尊為台灣民族音樂先驅的郭芝苑故居，深入認
地才是根本。」因此她們身體實踐，從「反」到識苑裡。2016年，出版刊物報導在地日常，也為

1980s. Liu and Lin met through the anti- wind-turbine
movement launched by the people of Yuanli. After partici-
pating in various social movements they reflected on their
experience and concluded, “If social movements want
to get results in the future, protesting is just a temporary
phase. If you want to make society change in a positive di-
rection, you have to return to the land.” They put this into
practice themselves by returning to their hometown.
The first step for Say Hi Home was to reconnect with
the land, and this was the beginning of getting to know
Yuanli anew. They traipsed through streets large and
藺草編織曾是苑裡在地共同的記憶，如今卻只剩下60歲以上 small doing field surveys, helped eco-friendly farmers to
的阿嬤還嫻熟，再找回這門手藝，是迫切之急。 resolve labor shortages and find sales channels, and also
Rush weaving is a part of the collective memory in Yuanli, but today
only a few women in their 60s or older are still versed in this tried to revive the rush weaving industry that once flour-
craft. Action is urgently needed if their skills are to be preserved. ished in Yuanli.
In 2015, the Say Hi Home team transformed the infor-
mation gleaned from their field surveys into mini-tours
northeasterly winds along the Miaoli coast are as powerful for vis itors, guiding people through historic Tian xia
as ever, leaving us dizzy and making it hard even to stand Street, to see the 120-year-old market, or to visit the for-
upright. Lin laughs as he says that we chose the wrong mer residence of Kuo Chih-yuan, a pioneer of Taiwanese
time to come here. But we are having a genuine local ex- folk music. In 2016, Say Hi Home launched a publication
perience, which lets us know that life here is not easy. to report on local news and collect cultural memories
The climate has shaped the indomitable character of from the area. In 2017 they held the “Hi Home Festival,”
the people of Baishatun, says Lin. Lin’s remarks are like with “say hi to everyone” as the core spirit of the event.
sociological observations, and they seem to confirm that
culture is the result of how people adapt to their environ-
ment to survive. This was one of the unanticipated points
of interest of our journey.
Say Hi Home: Reconnecting land and people
Continuing southward we arrive at Yuanli, Miaoli’s
southernmost township and the last stop on our trip.
Turning onto Xinxing Road, the place we want to visit
is the Hi Home Bookstore, which opened in August
of 2018. This is the base of operations for the “Say Hi
Home” workshop.
Most of the members of Say Hi Home, founded by
Liu Yuyu and Lin Hsiu Peng, were born in the 1970s and
95
地方積累文化記憶。2017年舉辦海風開心，晚上書店的燈亮著，帶著一種陪
祭，有趣的是，以諧音為名，海風祭伴的感覺，「長照2.0最真實的樣子應
的英文為「Hi Home Festival」，「跟該長這樣子。」林秀芃說。書店歡迎孩
家鄉說H i」是祭典的精神，她們在昔子來看書，也悄悄為地方、埋下一顆種
日熱鬧的媽祖廟對面搭起舞台，以母子、成為孩子接觸世界的窗。
語音樂會為主軸，想把在地的熱鬧再 2018年，掀海風的留鄉已經四年多
找回來。不僅希望吸引外地人來認識了，林秀芃說：「返鄉其實不難，難的
苑裡，更期待離家的遊子能回家看看是留鄉。」所幸有一群志同道合的夥
苑裡不一樣了。伴，讓她們不孤單，而我們更期待她們
「推動這些活動久了，會覺得要回不畏環境的強風，持續地走下去。
到在地的孩子身上。文化的根本其實是以往海線地區總被認為是既貧窮又弱
『教育』⋯⋯。一個人的自信除了來自勢，沒有經濟資本，也缺乏文化資源。
對地方的認識外，還有對自己的認識，但一趟騎行之旅，聽著「掀海風」的故
所以『閱讀』很重要。」林秀芃解釋為事，一群返鄉青年，如何從被動地被海
何要在這書店紛紛歇業的時代，創立風「搧」巴掌，轉為主動「掀」起改變
「掀冊店」。的風潮，也讓我們的騎行之旅，有繼續
書店開幕了，左鄰右舍的老人家也破風前行的動力。 l

They erected a stage across from the Mazu Hi Home Bookstore is a place where chil-
Temple, which was a very bustling place in dren are welcome to read. Elderly people
days gone by, and put on a “mother tongue living nearby were also happy when store
concert” in hopes of rediscovering that local opened, its lights at night conveying a sense
hustle and bustle and of attracting young of companionship. As the bookstore quietly
people who had left Yuanli to return home plants a seed for the locality and for the chil-
and see how different Yuanli could be. dren, we hope that the founders will not be
“After promoting these activities for a long daunted by the buffeting winds of the environ-
time, we felt we had to put the focus back on ment and will continue to press onward.
local young people. The root of culture is in In the past the coastal area along the rail
fact ‘education.’ If people don’t have enough line was considered poor and disadvantaged,
understanding of themselves, they will lack lacking both economic capital and cultural
self-confidence. This self-confidence comes resources. But on one bicycle trip, hearing the
not only from knowledge of the locality but story of Say Hi Home—how a group of young
also from knowing yourself, so reading is people who had returned to their rural home
very important.” This is how Lin Hsiu Peng underwent a transformation from passivity to
explains what prompted them to open a new actively initiating a tide of change—gave us
bookstore—Hi Home Bookstore—in an era the energy to press ahead. l
when large numbers of them are going out of (Cathy Teng/photos by Chuang Kung-ju/
business. tr. by Phil Newell)
97
藝文脈絡　CULTURAL TRENDS
讓
西方 West Meets East:
與
Taiwan’s Role in Global Sinology
東方
文•黃淑姿　圖•林旻萱　版面設計•蕭郢岑
台
相遇
台灣
灣漢
漢學
學國
國際
際交
交流
流
國家圖書館。 The National Central Library.

台北市中山南路與信義路口，佇立著一棟質
樸沈穩的建築物，對面的中正紀念堂經常人聲鼎
沸，這棟建物卻總是安靜優雅，其實，裡面典藏
著國民政府建立以來所搜羅的傳世古籍，近年更
擔負起漢學國際學術交流之重責，宛如帶著神秘
氣息的黑色珍珠，蘊藏無價的思想與文化寶藏。
70年國際交流經驗
這裡是國家圖書館，台灣最高圖書機構，從1944
年開始負責中華民國的出版品國際交換業務，超
過七十年的國際交流資歷，與全球87國、606個交
換單位，包括國家圖書館、大學圖書館、學術機
構、國際組織及漢學中心等交換並典藏出版品。
1989年起舉辦「外籍學人來台研究漢學獎
助」，共有來自44國、超過450位外籍教授及博
士生來台研究，自2010年開始接受外交部委辦
「台灣獎助金」事務，接待來自74國807人。除
了提供獎助金與研究室空間，也邀請學者們參與
台灣重要文化與節慶活動，使國際學人感受到台
灣的學術能量與友善熱情，回到母國後經常成為
雙邊溝通的樞紐。
豐富的國際交流經驗，使國家圖書館在國家圖書館第13任館長曾淑賢，同時也是創館八十多年來的
首位女性館長。
2011年時受命推動海外實體機構「漢學書房」 NCL director general Tseng Shu-hsien, the first woman to lead
the institution in its 80-plus years of existence.
（Resource Point）。當時，中華民國政府要向
世界推廣「具有台灣特色的中華文化」，在海外
設置「台灣書院」（Taiwan Academy），選擇美
國紐約、休士頓、洛杉磯三地，在當地的僑務中
心規劃實體書房空間。國家圖書館精選台灣編印
A sedate and firmly grounded building stands at
the intersection of Taipei’s Zhongshan South
Road and Xinyi Road. In contrast, located oppos
的人文社會類圖書陳列在漢學書房中，邀請著名 ite is Chiang Kaishek Memorial Hall, which often
學者主講「台灣漢學講座」（Taiwan Lectures on overflows with the sound of boisterous visitors. The
Chinese Studies）並舉辦古文獻展，吸引當地僑胞 building in question, however, remains quiet and com
與學術文化界人士前往參與。 posed. In fact, inside are stored texts that have come
down through the ages, and have been collected since
傳遞文化薪火 the establishment of the Republic of China in 1912.
More recently, it has also served as the venue for inter
為何要在海外建立台灣書院或漢學書房？「五四
national academic exchanges in the field of sinology.
運動」之後講求「全盤西化」，西方的民主、科
Like a black pearl endowed with a mysterious air, it
學、文學、藝術無不成為主流，然而，文明與生物 constitutes a priceless treasure of thought and culture.
99
2017年曾淑賢館長與盧比亞納大學社會科學院院長Rado Bohinc(右1)及人文學院院長Branka Kaleni
Ramšak(中)共同簽署「臺灣漢學資源中心」合作協議，插旗東南歐漢學重鎮。（國家圖書館提供）
In 2017, NCL director Tseng Shu-hsien, Rado Bohinc (right), dean of the Academy of Social Sciences at the
University of Ljubljana, and Branka Kalenić Ramšak (middle), dean of the School of Humanities, sign the
cooperation agreement to establish a Taiwan Resource Center for Chinese Studies in Slovenia. (courtesy of NCL)
演化一樣，都需要多樣性的交匯融合，萌發新的
無價的文化優勢
靈感，孕育新的生命，才能不斷適應環境變遷。
文化也是如此，如瑞典漢學家施舟人「漢學」一詞是西方說法，華人並不如此稱
（Kristofer Marinus Schipper）所言：「文化帶來呼，而是將研究中國文化，特別是中國經典的學
交流，交流帶來文化。」兩、三百年前的歐洲，問稱為「國學」──這同時也是傳統漢學的研究
曾經掀起一股中國熱，源自明、清時期，利瑪對象。
竇、湯若望、南懷仁等西方傳教士抵達中國，因半世紀以來，特別在美國，因冷戰時期的政治
能流利使用中文而進入中國朝廷權力中心，頻繁需要，掀起中國研究的熱潮，將漢學從傳統中國
與士大夫交往。傳教士將西方科技帶入中國，也經典研究領域擴大至中國研究及區域研究，並因
將《論語》、《老子》等中國經典帶至歐洲上流 200年來社會科學的蓬勃發展而挹注新的方法論。
社會與知識份子圈中流傳。傳統漢學以經典翻譯、釋義學及哲學研究為重，
漢學，或說「具有台灣特色的中華文化」，並現代漢學則導入社會學、政治學、經濟學、現象
非華人的私有財，一如西方文化，都是全人類共學與文化研究等，加上30年來中國經濟起飛，漢
有的文化寶藏。東方與西方不斷交流，刺激原本學──或說中國研究，成為熱門的跨領域研究。
僵固的思考慣性，使人類更能面對快速變遷的世 1980年代中國改革開放後，研究者紛紛前往中
界，在當下一片「人工智慧即將取代人類」的危國取經，台灣自冷戰時期扮演的傳統中華文化傳
機呼聲中更顯重要。走出島嶼，站上世界舞台，薪者角色，產生了邊緣化危機。
在海外傳遞「漢學」薪火的任務，更具有迫切性然而，台灣在東西文化流中，始終具有不可取
與必要性。代的優勢與重要性。台灣仍使用繁體中文，保留

Seven decades of international exchanges Passing on the torch of culture
This is the National Central Library (NCL), Taiwan’s Why establish Taiwan Academies or Resource Points
highest-ranking book depository. Since 1944, it has been abroad? After the May Fourth Movement, advocates of
responsible for the international exchange of the Republic the movement strove for so-called “total Westerniza-
of China’s publications. Having undertaken seven decades tion.” Western-style democracy, science, literature and art
of such interaction worldwide, it has collaborated with all became mainstream. But for continuous adaptation
606 bodies in 87 countries, such as national and university to environmental change, civiliza tion—like biological
libraries, academic institutions, international organiza- evolution—requires the convergence of diversity, inspira-
tions and centers of sinology, to facilitate the exchange and tion from fresh ideas and the nurturing of new life.
collection of various publications. The same is true of culture. As stated by the Swedish
Since 1989, the library has managed Taiwan’s “Research sinologist Kristofer Schipper: “Culture brings exchange
Grant Program for Foreign Scholars in Chinese Studies.” and exchange brings culture.” During the late Ming and
More than 450 foreign professors and doctoral candidates early Qing dynasties, “China fever” swept Europe and
have visited Taiwan to conduct research under this pro- missionaries such as the Italian Matteo Ricci, German
gram. In addition, since 2010 the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Johann Adam Schall von Bell, and Flemish Ferdinand
has commissioned the library to host 807 scholars from 74 Verbiest arrived in China. Fluent in Mandarin, they
countries on behalf of the ministry’s “Taiwan Fellowship.” were able to gain entrance to the court’s inner power
Thanks to the library’s rich experience in managing center and frequented scholar-officials. The missionaries
international exchanges, in 2011 it was tasked with setting brought Western technology to China, while introducing
up a series of bodies overseas, dubbed “Resource Points.” ancient Chinese classics such as The Analects and Tao Te
At the time, the government intended to establish a “Tai- Ching to European high society and intellectual circles.
wan Academy” network abroad, to promote “Chinese Neither sinology nor “Chinese culture with Taiwanese
culture with Taiwanese characteristics.” characteristics” is the private property of Chinese
2018年曾淑賢館長
與泰國朱拉隆功大學
（C h u l a l o n g k o r n
U n i v e r s i t y）圖書館
館長Amorn Petsom
共同簽署「臺灣
漢學資源中心」
合作協議，舉行
揭牌啟用典禮。
（國家圖書館提供）
Opening ceremony: NCL
director general Tseng
Shu-hsien and Professor
Amorn Petsom, director
of the Office of Academic
Resources at Thailand’s
Chulalongkorn
University, celebrate
the 2018 signing of the
agreement establishing
a Taiwan Resource
Center for Chinese
Studies there. (courtesy
of NCL)
101
許多重要古籍善本與文物，有開放的言論與出版點，並積極聯繫教育部，設置「台灣研究講座」
風氣，思想不受審查，敢於向權威挑戰⋯⋯擁有或「台灣書院」的海外聯絡點，和世界級重點大
這些無價之寶，如果不將之帶上世界舞台，對台學與研究機構，從2012年11月5日在美國德州大
灣自身、對東西方文化交流、甚至對世界發展，學奧斯汀分校，親手為第一個台灣漢學資源中心
都將是一巨大損失。掛牌，曾淑賢帶領著國家圖書館的同仁們，以豐
富的國圖典藏與台灣出版品為資源庫，踏足歐、
6年掛牌31個漢學資源中心
亞、美、大洋洲，插旗設點。
因此，雖然2011年後台灣書院據點並未增加，但細數海外據點，有英國倫敦大學亞非學院、
國家圖書館館長曾淑賢已經意識到將台灣漢學推上加拿大多倫多大學、法國里昂第三大學、荷蘭萊
世界舞台的重要性，延續當初接掌國圖時所設定的頓大學、比利時根特大學、馬來西亞馬來西亞大
「在海外推廣具台特色的中華文化」主軸，在教育學、日本京都大學、韓國首爾大學、澳洲國立大
部支持下，繼續以國際出版品交換為基礎，於海外學等重要大學，俄羅斯科學院東方研究所、德國
籌建國圖自有品牌「台灣漢學資源中心」（Taiwan 巴伐利亞圖書館等重要國際機構⋯⋯6年來，國
Resource Center for Chinese Studies, TRCCS）。圖這群文化尖兵，積極聯繫海外學人，也與外交
考慮到多年累積的跨國學人交流情誼，曾淑部駐外人員攜手，成功在海外設立31個台灣漢學
賢策略性地選擇從獎助學人較多的海外大學為起資源中心。

people. Like Western culture, they are treasures to be into China proper and regional studies. Add to this
shared by mankind. Unceasing interaction between East China’s three-decade-long economic boom, and sino-
and West has frequently disrupted the inertia of rigid logy—or “China studies”—has become a popular cross-
thought, and facilitated mankind’s ability to deal with disciplinary field in its own right.
our rapidly changing world. At a time when a bevy of With mainland China’s reform and opening in the
voices warn that “AI will soon replace mankind,” such eighties, researchers flocked to the mainland to learn
exchanges have taken on greater significance. It is now from its experience. Taiwan, in its Cold-War role as
more urgent and crucial than ever to abandon an insu- torchbearer for traditional Chinese culture, was thus
lar stance, plant our feet on the international stage, and threatened with marginalization.
carry the torch of sinology across the globe. Taiwan has always possessed, however, a certain
Priceless cultural advantages importance and irreplaceable advantages in the flow of
Due to the political needs of the Cold War, particu- exchanges between the cultures of East and West. Tai-
larly those of the United States, over the last half wan still employs traditional Chinese characters, retains
century there has been an upsurge in China-related many ancient and original manuscripts and cultural rel-
analysis. Sinology has broadened from a focus on tradi- ics, enjoys an atmosphere conducive to free speech and
tional Chinese classical canons, to include research publishing, and does not conduct censorship, and its
台灣漢學資源中心全球據點
Worldwide locations of 英國 UK (3) 荷蘭 Netherlands (1)
Taiwan Resource Centers for Chinese Studies 德國 Germany (2) 比利時 Belgium (1)
法國 France (1) 丹麥 Denmark (1)
全球共計31個據點義大利 Italy (2)
31 locations
美國 USA (4) 波蘭 Poland (1) 拉脫維亞 Latvia (1)

匈牙利 Hungary (1) 捷克 Czech Republic (1)
加拿大 Canada (1)
斯洛維尼亞 Slovenia (1)
俄羅斯 Russia (1)
韓國 S. Korea (2)
日本 Japan (2)
泰國 Thailand (1)
越南 Vietnam (1)
馬來西亞 Malaysia (2)
澳洲 Australia (1)
圖•蕭郢岑
資料來源：國家圖書館
art by Hsiao Ying-tsen
source: NCL
103
國家圖書館以互動科技賦予
《註東坡先生詩》新生命，用
手指點一點電子螢幕，就能
放大觀賞古書中精采的內容跟
欽印。
Going interactive: Technology has
given new life to the Song era’s
Annotated Poems of Su Dongpo.
Visitors can zoom into the ancient
tome’s content simply by tapping
a finger on a touch screen.
中文古籍國際數位化平台
國家圖書館不只跨出島嶼至海外設立實體
資源中心，也因應科技發展數位資源，建構中焦尾本《註東坡先生
詩》被譽為宋版書
文古籍國際數位化平台，與全球重要典藏機構中的極品，問世八百
多年來多秘隱於私人
共享書目資源，讓研究者無論身在世界哪個角
藏書家手中，後來
落，都能透過網路查找珍貴漢學古籍文獻。輾轉成為國家圖書館
藏書。此為2012年
近代中國大量珍貴古籍、善本流落海外，遭限量景印復刻版，讓
逢掠劫或被重金收購，根據漢學界初步調查，常人也能一窺國寶
的絕代風華。
海外中文古籍總量超過三百萬冊，除日本、美 Annotated Poems of Su
Dongpo, which survived
國、英國、法國、俄羅斯等主要藏國的書況清 damage by fire, has
been hailed as one of
楚，其他國家則仍有待釐清。中文古籍四散， the finest treasures of
the NCL’s collection of
不只影響學術研究，也重創民族自信，如英國 Song-Dynasty books.
探險家斯坦因（Marc Aurel Stein）在1920至30 Owned by private
collectors for more
年代進入中亞帶走大批敦煌古籍，使得最早研 than eight centuries,
it eventually found its
究敦煌學有成者，不是中國學者，而是歐洲漢 way into the NCL
collection. Pictured
學家，以至於學者陳寅恪曾有「敦煌在中國， is a 2012 limited-
edition facsimile of
敦煌學在海外」的辛酸點評。 the original, placed on
public display.
當年國家圖書館之所以能躋身世界圖書交換
重點單位，「根基就在國家圖書館典藏的中文
善本古籍。」曾淑賢說，這批具有重大歷史意
義的善本古籍，跟著中華民國一路從南京輾轉
遷徙到重慶、成都躲避戰禍，最後輾轉落腳台
灣。「曾在圖書館內任職的前輩，說起當年參
與運書的過程，驚心動魄。這批書，簡直是用
命換回來的。」館長秘書唐申蓉說。

people dare to challenge authority. Given these price- ing the library’s own brand, “Taiwan Resource Centers
less treasures, if Taiwan were to fail to bring them to the for Chinese Studies” (TRCCS).
world stage, this would represent a huge loss for Tai- Beginning with Tseng’s personal inauguration of
wan itself, for East–West interaction, and even in terms the first TRCCS at the University of Texas at Austin on
of global progress. November 5, 2012, she has led her colleagues to venues
Six years, 31 resource centers in the United States, Europe, Asia and Oceania, where
Although the number of Taiwan Academy sites has they have planted the TRCCS flag and established re-
not increased since 2011, the NCL’s director general, Dr. source library sites comprising Taiwanese publications
Tseng Shu-hsien, recognized the importance of high- and items from the National Central Library’s plentiful
lighting Taiwan’s contribution to sinology on the world collection.
stage. In order to persevere with the stewardship of the Over the past six years and more, the library’s pioneer-
library’s concept of overseas promotion of “Chinese cul- ing cultural vanguard has proactively reached out to over-
ture with Taiwanese characteristics,” and with support seas scholars, and joined forces with Ministry of Foreign
from the Ministry of Education, the library utilized the Affairs staff to successfully inaugurate 31 TRCCS sites.
exchange of publications as its foundation for establish- Ancient Chinese texts, accessible online worldwide
Besides establishing resource centers outside
Taiwan, in response to technical innovation facil-
itating digital data the NCL has also constructed
an international digitization platform. This
platform shares its catalogue with bodies hous-
ing major sinology collections worldwide, thus
permitting researchers in any location to access
precious ancient tomes and documents via the
library’s online platform.
Since the 19th century, a large number of price-
less ancient books and original manuscripts have
fallen into foreign hands, or have been looted or
sold off internationally for large sums. Sinologists
estimate that more than 3 million ancient Chinese
volumes are currently outside Greater China.
Their dispersal not only negatively impacts aca-
demic research, it has also deeply damaged the
self-confidence of the Chinese people. For exam-
ple, the British explorer Aurel Stein entered Cen-
tral Asia on several expeditions in the 1920s and
1930s, and left with a haul of tens of thousands
of scrolls from the Dun huang Grottoes. This
meant that the first scholars to earn a reputation
國家圖書館不只有豐富中文、西文館藏，也提供
安靜舒適的閱覽空間，供學人精進求知。
The NCL not only houses an abundant collection of
Chinese and Western works of sinology, it also provides
a quiet and comfortable reading space for scholars to
deepen their knowledge.
105
2018年5月，國圖首度於北歐、也是丹麥設立臺灣漢學資源
中心。圖為丹麥皇家圖書館東方館藏部主任E v a-M a r i a
Jansson展示館藏中文古籍。（國家圖書館提供）
In May 2018, the NCL established a Taiwan Resource Center for
Chinese Studies in Denmark, marking the centers’ first outpost in
Scandinavia. Here, Eva-Maria Jansson, director of the Oriental
Collection Department at the Royal Danish Library, shows a
selection of the department’s ancient Chinese tomes.
(courtesy of NCL)
取得全球80個館所數位授權
國家圖書館成立館內跨組室工作小組，協同
館藏發展、書目管理、特藏文獻管理、數位系
統開發、國際合作、漢學中心等內部單位，首
先將典藏古籍數位化，並自2008年參與「世界
數位圖書館（WDL）」計畫，上傳160筆古籍數
位影像資料﹔自2013年起加入「國際敦煌計畫
（IDP）」，上傳141筆館藏敦煌寫經影像及詮釋
資料。在這兩個重量級世界數位典藏計畫中，國
家圖書館都是來自台灣唯一的參與單位。
參與國際級數位典藏計畫的同時，國家圖書館
陸續取得全球80個館所的數位化授權，收錄來自
全世界、總共超過73萬筆的古籍聯合目錄，以及
德國柏林國家圖書館、巴伐利亞圖書館、香港中
文大學圖書館、哈佛燕京圖書館等古籍數位化影
像資源。
為了讓更多人親炙古籍風采，國家圖書館與出 as Dunhuang experts were European sinologists, not
版社合作出版古籍復刻本，選擇國寶級文物，如 China’s. Even a scholar such as Chen Yinke noted
ironically, “The Dunhuang caves are located in China,
800年歷史的宋刻焦尾本《註東坡先生詩》，與
but ‘Dunhuang Studies’ are located overseas.”
元朝中國第一本雙色印刷孤本《金剛經》，將脆
From the 1930s through the 1980s, the library’s status
弱的古籍文物轉化為可捧在手上展讀的書籍，讓
as one of the top institutions engaging in international
古人知識美學走入現代人的生活中，也成為文化 book exchange was, according to Tseng, “rooted in
交流的最佳伴手禮。 the National Central Library’s collection of rare and
在國際學術交流的氛圍中，國家圖書館異軍 ancient texts.” This collection followed on the heels
突起，無論是設立海外台灣漢學資源中心、搭建 of the Republic of China’s government when it set up
世界級中文古籍數位化平台，或是善本復刻等， in its capital, Nanjing, then found its way to Chong-
qing in China’s interior, relocated to Chengdu to avoid
多年來持續對外輸出台灣式漢學文化，使東西文
the disasters of war, and finally came to Taiwan in the
化有更多元、開放的匯流，免於單一角度的一言
late 1940s. “When our predecessors who served at the
堂。也許在不久的將來，學者錢穆於《歷史文化 library talked about how they transported the books
論叢》一書中所說：「將來人類新文化⋯⋯當由 back then, it was breathtaking,” recounts Tang Shen-
東西雙方之文化交流中產生」的大膽預言，將成 jung, secretary to Director Tseng. “It was accomplished
事實。 l literally at the cost of human lives.”

Digital rights from 80 libraries images of some 160 rare books. In 2013, it took part in
The NCL established a cross-departmental workgroup the “International Dunhuang Project,” for which it put
to supervise development of its collection, cataloguing, digital images of 141 Dunhuang texts and annotations
curation of special documents, digital system develop- online. The NCL is the sole Taiwan-based body to take
ment, international cooperation, and operation of the part in either of these world-class digitization projects.
resource centers and other organizations under the li- As well as participating in these prominent digital
brary’s management. The NCL’s own collection of ancient collection projects, the NCL has acquired digital rights
books was digitized first; then, in 2008, it participated in from 80 libraries worldwide. This effectively grants the
the “World Digital Library” program, uploading digital library access to a shared catalogue of digital images for
more than 730,000 ancient books.
Perhaps in the near future, the bold prediction made
by scholar Qian Mu in his work Essays on History and
善本圖書室典藏善本古籍十三萬餘冊、普通本線裝書十二萬 Culture will come to pass: “A new form of human civil-
餘冊，並在閱覽區提供《百部叢書集成初編》等重要參考
文獻，方便讀者比對查詢。
ization will emerge… from interaction between the cul-
NCL’s Rare Book Library houses more than 130,000 rare books tures of East and West.” l
and 120,000-plus less precious tomes. Within its reading room,
it also provides access to important reference works such as the (Sanya Huang/photos by Lin Minhsuan/
One Hundred Collectanea, to facilitate research. tr. by Bruce Humes)
107
多元族群　COMMUNITIES
繽紛狂歡．彩色人生
A Riot of Colors: The Holi Festival in Taiwan

好麗色彩節（Holi Festival）是印度三大節慶之一，「Holi」在
印度語是「色彩節」的意思，在強調種姓制度的印度教規範中，只
有這一天，可以讓人忘記種姓與階級的不同，向彼此潑灑五顏六色
的顏料，一同平等過節。
由於一位印度女婿，與知名華裔大提琴家同名的馬友友（Mayur
Srivastava）之倡議，讓印度人的傳統節慶在台灣，成為不分國
籍、宗教，大家都可以一起歡樂的慶典。不論是紀念過去一年的
豐收；或是迎接未來嶄新的一年；或只是想狂歡一場，你準備
好五顏六色的顏料了嗎? 3月16日在台北華山文創園區一同高喊
「Happy Holi」！
好麗色彩節又叫灑紅節、五彩節，台灣夢想印度博物館館長吳
德朗指出，好麗色彩節是印度的三大傳統節日之一。另外兩個重
要的傳統節日：一是大約每年10月∼11月之間的排燈節，就像新
年；另一是在每年 9∼10 月舉行的十勝節（ Dussehra ），又名凱
旋節，為慶祝羅摩（ Rama ）戰勝十首魔王拉瓦那（ Ravan ）而設
的節日。
H oli is one of India’s three biggest festivals. It is an egalitarian

holiday, the only day of the year on which Indians may set aside
differences in caste and class to sprinkle or spray colored powders on
one another.
Thanks to Mayur Srivastava, the Indian husband of a Taiwanese
woman, people in Taiwan can now celebrate this joyful traditional
Indian festival as well, no matter their nationality or religious beliefs.
Whether you’re planning to celebrate the previous year’s abundance,
welcome the year ahead, or just enjoy the party, Holi arrives in Tai-
wan on March 16 with a celebration at Taipei's Huashan 1914 Creative
Park. Have you got your Holi colors ready?
（馬友友提供　courtesy of Mayur Srivastava）
文•曾蘭淑　圖•林格立
版面設計•蕭郢岑
109
印度人在過節時都會唱歌、
跳舞慶祝。
Indians celebrate their New
Year with singing and dancing.
王子灑上七色彩粉或水，讚頌他的善良和勇氣。
慶豐收、迎春天
「馬友友印度廚房」主廚馬友友說，在印度
關於色彩節的起源有許多說法，吳德朗說，其南部，當地人會在春季的第一天慶祝色彩節，
中之一的傳說是「毗濕奴神」的分身之一「奎師除了代表色彩單調的冬天已經結束，大地萬物
那神」（Krishna）生性調皮，喜歡在牧羊女身上即將重生，迎接春暖花開的春天；另外也有祈
灑彩色粉末，神話流傳千年後，成為印度當地特求新的一年五穀豐收之意。尤其是農民剛收割
有的習俗。完稻穀，利用沒有耕種的農田種植花卉，而不
在印度最普遍的傳說是根據印度著名史詩《摩同顏色的花卉作成天然的彩粉，正好用來慶祝
訶婆羅多》記載，傳說中有一國王希蘭亞卡西普色彩節。因此，好麗色彩節又叫印度春之節
（Hiranyakashipu），他受到梵天的保佑有不死之（Spring Festival of India）。
身，卻生性驕縱殘暴，禁止國民崇拜天神毗濕奴不論來由如何，好麗色彩節這天，當地人播放
（Vishnu），只能崇拜他。著印度傳統音樂，隨著dholak鼓的節奏，忘情地
偏偏他的兒子P r a h l a d是虔誠崇敬毗濕奴的信唱歌跳舞，不管大人小孩，全都走上街頭，將彩
徒，國王懷恨在心，屢次想謀害王子未成，最後色粉末，點抹在對方額頭以示祝福，更多人是直
國王找來不怕火的妹妹女妖霍利卡（Holika），抱接抓起粉末互相噴灑「攻擊」，從頭到腳，所到
著王子跳入火堆，但王子安然無恙，反而霍利卡之處皆是不可思議的繽紛世界，連空氣裡都懸浮
化為灰燼。人們為了慶祝王子平安無事，紛紛向著彩色粉末，頑皮的孩子們甚至還加水調合，以
︵印度博物館戴永發攝
photo by Dai Yongfa, the India Museum, Taiwan
︶
Welcoming the spring stead. Hiranyakashipu’s subjects celebrate the prince’s
Jeffery Wu, director of the India Museum, Taiwan, says goodness, his courage through this trial, and his safe
that Holi is also known as the “Festival of Colors,” adding emergence from it by sprinkling him with powdered
that there are many explanations of the holiday’s origins. pigments and water.
The version of the origin story most common in India Srivastava, owner and head chef at Mayur Indian
appears in the famous epic Mahabharata, and tells of an Kitchen, says that people in southern India now observe
asura and king named Hiranyakashipu. Granted im the Festival of Colors on the first day of spring. He ex
mortality by the god Brahma, Hiranyakashipu becomes plains that the holiday celebrates the end of the mono
arrogant, violent and cruel, and bans his people from chromatic winter, welcomes the return of the flowers and
worshiping Vishnu, instead demanding that they worship warmth of spring, and represents a prayer for an abund
only him. ant harvest in the coming year. For this reason, Holi is
When Hiranyakashipu’s son Prahlada becomes a de also known as the Spring Festival.
votee of Vishnu, the king grows enraged and repeatedly On the day of the festival, locals play traditional In
attempts to kill the prince. When these efforts fail, the dian music, and dance and sing to the beat of the dholak,
king has the princess Holika, who cannot be harmed a twoheaded hand drum. Young and old alike take to the
by fire, embrace the prince and leap into a pyre. But streets with colored powders that they sprinkle or smear
the prince remains unscathed, and Holika burns in on one another to represent well wishes. Some fling
whole handfuls of pigment in “attacks” that leave people
covered from head to foot in a whole spectrum of colors
and fill the air with powder; and mischievous children
排燈節是印度的新年，大家會盛裝打扮慶祝。
sometimes load buckets, balloons and water guns with
Everyone dresses up for Diwali, the Indian New Year festival. colored water that they use to douse everyone they meet.
111
好麗色彩節由於印度籍廚師馬友友的
倡議，擴大舉辦為不分國籍，大家都
可以一起歡樂的慶典。
Indian restaurateur Mayur Srivastava
organizes Holi festivities in Taiwan that
welcome everyone, regardless of national
origin.
水桶、水球或水槍「掃射」每一個
遇見的人。
分享印度文化之美
好麗色彩節成為印度節慶的傳
統，至今已有近千年歷史，隨著印
度學生、移民足跡遍及全球，逐漸
成為國際慶典。
來到台灣已卅多年的台北印度人
協會會長Vijay Kapadia說，台灣慶
祝好麗色彩節歷史悠久，印度鄉親
每年都會慶祝排燈節、色彩節。
像11月的排燈節是印度的新年，
印度人會盛裝打扮，透過在台灣的
社團招聚鄉親一起過節：放煙火、
一起跳舞、吃應景的印度食物，主
辦者為尊重耆那教徒在飲食上的戒
律，會特別為耆那教的鄉親準備不
含根莖類，例如馬鈴薯、洋蔥、大
蒜等食物。
「在印度我們是各自過年，反而因為在台灣，年更會在台北、桃園與新竹同步舉辦，現場還會
我們不分宗教，一起慶祝，大家就像一家人一有印度舞團的表演。
樣。」台灣印度人協會會長Shan Manish說，透過「甜點是印度慶典中很重要的一部份。」馬
這些活動也讓我們的子孫認識自己的傳統文化與習友友說，印度人祭拜神明大多使用甜點作為供
俗，人在異鄉也不忘本。品，節慶時互相祝福，唱歌、跳舞，吃著應節
對馬友友而言，今（2019）年是他來到台灣的的美食，很像台灣人在拜拜後會吃拜拜的東
第12年，來自印度德里的他，不只在台灣開了7 西，但印度人除了吃素食咖哩、優格，甜點一定
家餐廳，同時也在台灣娶妻生子，他也將台灣視不可少。
作第二個家。熟知台灣文化的他，發現許多台灣印度年節慶典準備的甜點，例如用鷹嘴豆
民眾並不了解印度，因此從2013年開始，透過舉粉、酥油，混合堅果、糖漿捏成球狀的甜點拉杜
辦好麗色彩節，開放給一般大眾參加，期待更多（Laldoo），或是用乾果、堅果與紅糖包成餃子
民眾了解印度的文化、理解屬於印度的故事，今形狀的甜角（Gujiya），以及素食的咖哩餃，這

Sharing Indian culture Originally from Delhi, Srivastava has spent 12 years
The Holi tradition dates back nearly 1,000 years in in Taiwan. His wife, children, and seven restaurants
India. Carried abroad by Indian emigrants and students, now make it feel like home. While Srivastava is well
it has recently become a global celebration as well. acquainted with Taiwan’s culture, he recognizes that
Indians in Taiwan also celebrate Diwali, the Indian many Taiwanese are not equally familiar with India’s.
New Year, dressing up and gathering with their com He began organizing Holi celebrations for the public
patriots in November to light fireworks, dance, and eat here in 2013 to try to rectify that by increasing the gen
seasonal dishes. Out of respect for the dietary restric eral public’s awareness of Indian culture and stories.
tions of Jains, organizers of these gatherings make sure For this year’s celebrations, he’s arranged simultaneous
to include dishes that contain no root vegetables (such events in Taipei, Taoyuan and Hsinchu that will feature
as potatoes, onions, or garlic). performances by Indian dance companies.
“In India, we pass the New Year with our own eth “Sweets are an important part of Indian celebra
nic and religious groups, but in Taiwan we celebrate tions,” adds Srivastava.
together without regard for religious background. Those who buy tickets to his Holi events will there
We’re like one big family,” says Shan Manish, head of fore be provided with treats such as laddu (chickpea
the Taiwan Indian Club, who explains that these events flour and ghee shaped into balls with nuts and syrup),
help expatriate children become familiar with their own gujiya (fried dumplings filled with dried fruits, nuts,
traditional culture and customs, enabling them to better and brown sugar), and vegetarian curry puffs, to intro
hold on to their roots. duce them to Indian food culture.
各式甜點是印度年節最受歡迎的禮物，並增添年節的歡樂。
Sweet treats are popular gifts at the Indian New Year, adding joy
to the season.
好麗色彩節必吃的甜點：蔬菜咖哩角。
A must-eat Holi Festival treat: vegetarian curry puffs.
113
些甜點也會提供給購買門票的民眾，藉此體驗印不分宗教、種族，每人都可以在這裡一起唱歌、
度的飲食文化。跳舞。
愈來愈多的印度籍工程師與學生來台灣工作與
跨越國籍，一同Holi！
留學，對來到台灣的印度鄉親來說，好麗色彩節
印度有21個省份，從南到北大家膚色都不同，是回憶鄉情的美好、聯結台灣經驗的時刻。
只有在好麗色彩節，大家都是一樣的，都變彩色「小時候都是與在印度德里的鄰居一起慶祝好
的。馬友友強調，好麗色彩節傳達一個很重要的麗色彩節。」馬友友以流利的中文說，在台灣很
訊息，大家不分黑白、貧富，每人都是平等的。不同，由於愈來愈多人知道好麗色彩節，並且他

International Holi!
India has 21 states, and its citizens’ skin colors also
vary with region. It is only on Holi that people are all
the same, with everyone becoming a bright mix of hues.
不管大人小孩互相噴灑 Srivastava stresses that Holi contains an important
彩色粉末，是慶祝印度
message: that everyone is equal regardless of color or
好麗色彩節的重頭戲。
（馬友友提供）。 wealth. During the holiday, everyone sings and dances,
People of all ages
no matter their religion or ethnicity.
sprinkle colored powders
on one another during “When I was a boy, we always celebrated Holi with
the Holi celebrations.
(courtesy of Mayur our neighbors in Delhi.” Speaking fluent Mandarin,
Srivastava)
Srivastava says it’s different in Taiwan, where more
and more people are becoming aware of the festival,
and where Brazilians, Spaniards and others take part
in it. Since 2015, annual participation in his Holi events
has exceeded 1,000 people, but only about one-quarter
會通知巴西、西班牙等在台灣的同 of these have been Indians residing in Taiwan. The
鄉會參加。2015年起每年均超過上 others have been Taiwanese and Taiwan residents of
千人參加，四分之一是在台灣的印 other nationalities, turning Taiwan’s Holi into an inter-
度人外，其餘全是在台灣的外國人 national celebration.

Srivastava promotes Holi for another reason as
與台灣人，台灣的好麗節變成跨越
well. He says that many people abroad think Taiwan
國籍的慶典。
is a province of mainland China. He hopes that the
馬友友推廣好麗色彩節，還有一 indi viduals from 30-some nations who participate in
個原因。他透露，很多外國人都以 Taiwan’s Holi will help correct that misunderstanding
為台灣是中國大陸的一省，他希望 and let people abroad know that Taiwan is a wonderful
透過舉辦好麗色彩節，讓這些來自 country by posting stories and pictures of the festivities
三十多個國家的外國人，同時在社 on social media.
“My children were born in Taiwan, so I hope Taiwan
群媒體Twitter與Instagram放上在台
keeps getting better!” Mayur loves Taiwan even more
灣參加好麗色彩節的訊息或照片，
than Taiwanese people do, and hopes that the Holi
同時可以告訴別人，台灣是一個很
celebrations here become the largest in Asia outside of
棒的國家。 India itself.
「我的孩子在台灣出生，我希望 What’s the best way to take part in the Holi festiv-
台灣愈來愈好！」比台灣人更愛台 ities? Don’t bring anything susceptible to water damage,
灣的馬友友希望，台灣成為在印度之外，全亞洲 like electronics, and do wear a plain T-shirt (expect it to
最大舉辦好麗色彩節的國家。 be ruined). With these simple guidelines in mind you

can play to your heart’s content, learn to forgive, and
如何參加好麗色彩節？最好不要攜帶沒有防水
experience an aspect of Indian tradition. Are you ready
的電子用品，穿著簡單的T恤，並且要有衣服全
to participate in wild and colorful Holi? Come enjoy a
毀的心裡準備，盡情玩鬧、學習原諒並體驗印度 chromatic experience as the streets run with pigments
傳統。你準備好參加瘋狂、七彩絢麗的好麗色彩 and life takes on new hues! l
節嗎? 體驗色彩的一天，街道是彩色的，人生是 (Esther Tseng/photos by Jimmy Lin/
彩色的。 l tr. by Scott Williams)
115
多元族群　COMMUNITIES
幸福由沙畫出發
移工藝術家──馬力歐
Going with the Grain
—Migrant-Worker Sand Artist Mario Subeldia
文•李珊瑋　圖•林格立　版面設計•王敬勛
台灣第一位獲得街頭藝人證照的菲律
賓籍移工──沙畫藝術家馬力歐飄洋過
F ilipino sand artist Mario Subeldia is
the first migrant worker to be licensed
as a street artist in Taiwan. Since crossing
海，用智慧徹底翻轉命運，活出精彩自
the sea from his homeland, he has used his
我，開啟瑰麗人生。 intelligence to transform his destiny, and by
台灣自由的創作環境，給予他無盡滋 living out his dreams, has embarked upon a
養，除了展現沙畫藝術天分，更用無限 beautiful life.
創意，從事繪畫與服裝設計；不僅凝聚 Nourished by Taiwan’s free creative en
在台菲籍同鄉情誼，並回饋家鄉貧童。 vironment, Mario has not only demonstrated
his talent at sand art, but also applied his
擁有事業和生命中的賢內助，馬力歐感
boundless creativity to painting and cloth
恩家在台灣。
ing design. As well as becoming a focal point
for friendship among Filipino compatriots in
Taiwan, he has given back to poor children
由寵兒到台灣移工
in his hometown. With a wife who is his
「這是我完全沒有預期的人生。」 partner in both business and life, Mario is
排行么兒的馬力歐，在充滿愛的家庭裡 grateful that his home is in Taiwan.
成長，一直是父母兄姐的寵兒，極力栽
From pampered child to migrant worker
培。在菲律賓就讀大學的馬力歐，過的
“This has been a completely unexpected life.”
是無憂無慮的生活，媽媽常鼓勵他參加
As the youngest child of a loving family, Mario
各式各樣的競賽，展現才藝。從政的父
was pampered by his parents and elder sib-
親，經歷一場突如其來的大病，讓家中 lings, who put a lot of energy into raising and
的支柱瞬間崩塌，龐大的醫療費用，以 educating him. But when his father, who was
及漫漫無期的復健之路，讓家中經濟萬 in politics, suffered a sudden illness, the family

台灣第一位獲得街頭藝人證照
的菲律賓籍移工──馬力歐，
用沙畫藝術，活出精彩自我。
Filipino Mario Subeldia, the first
migrant worker in Taiwan to
earn a license as a street artist,
is living out his dreams through
sand art.
117
分沉重。「是我回饋父母的時候了。」2011年馬
力歐隻身來台，進入新竹高科技公司，擔任低階
輪班作業員。「我住在移工宿舍，每天早出晚
歸。」嚴謹的集中管理，機械式的作息，單調無
趣的日子，深沉的疲憊，常不知如何抒發。
儘管宿舍中不乏同鄉，每天可以聽到鄉音，
吃到家鄉的食物，但是依然無法消弭馬力歐心
中的孤寂。當他一人獨處時，濃郁的思鄉愁
緒，就會溢滿心頭，在孤單中不停發酵。回憶
是提振情緒的唯一解藥，「小時候姐姐教我畫
畫。」馬力歐回想起兒時的快樂時光，稍稍沖
淡了鬱悶的情懷。不知不覺中，他開始用身邊
的雜物信手塗鴉。
從頭苦學，無師自通
放假時，獨自坐在新竹南寮海邊，海風呼嘯
下，馬力歐環抱雙膝，望著茫茫大海出神。想到
家人在海的那一邊，相隔遙遠，何時再聚？兩行
熱淚，不知不覺地輕輕滑落。「爸爸媽媽的臉，
清晰地浮現在眼前。」馬力歐不自覺地用手指，
在沙地上隨手勾勒，慰藉思念。
「我看過別人表演沙畫，覺得很神奇。」一
盤散沙在藝術家手中，瞬息萬變，像是魔術般出
神入化。就是這道靈光，開啟了馬力歐璀璨的人
生。「我是看YouTube的影片學的。」從未接觸陳心瑀是馬力歐背後重要的支柱，彼此互相照顧陪伴。
Mario’s wife, Chen Xinyu, is his main behind-the-scenes
過沙畫，經濟條件也不允許他花錢學習，只能暗 supporter; the couple look after each other and spend time
together.
自摸索，無師自通。
無數個黑夜裡，不斷地揣摩到天明，最常畫
的就是父母和家人的臉。雖然雙手被沙粒摩擦到
粗糙龜裂，眼睛被畫板下的日光燈，反射到刺痛
畏光，但是一股追求夢想的動力，讓馬力歐燃起
無盡的鬥志。每一張臉龐，由糢糊扭曲到清晰亮第一次出現在電視裡，馬力歐難掩興奮，立即
麗，進而達到唯妙唯肖。剛開始要花一整天的時打電話回家。「中風多年，無法說話的爸爸，一
間，不斷修飾，後來進步到8到10分鐘，就能完直高興的啊啊大叫。」以動畫效果，配合燈光投
美呈現。影的現場沙畫表演，讓人驚豔。「第一次正式表
「宿舍裡有什麼比賽，大家都推我出去參演是在元宵節燈會。」自此邀約不斷，也成為媒
加。」拿到榮譽的獎章，讓馬力歐重拾自信，回體爭相報導的寵兒。
復昔日的開朗活潑。為了讓更多人看到沙畫表馬力歐最擅長的是擬真，不管是人像、建築
演，馬力歐鼓足勇氣，參加街頭藝人甄選。2015 物、文字、LOGO，逼真的圖像，都能讓客戶讚
年成為台灣第一位以外籍移工身分，取得台北、嘆。除了公益和商業演出，還曾受馬尼拉經濟文
新竹縣市街頭藝人證照。化辦事處邀請，在菲律賓國宴上表演沙畫。

abruptly lost its means of support. “This was the time for Countless times he would work through the night
me to repay my parents.” In 2011 Mario came alone to trying to master this art form. His most frequent subject-
Taiwan and entered a high-tech company in Hsinchu as matter was the faces of his parents and family members.
a low-level shift worker. “I lived in the migrant workers’ Although his hands became coarse and cracked from
dormitory, and each day I went out early and returned the grains of sand, and his eyes grew sore and sensitive
late.” Strictly managed and passing monotonous days from the fluorescent light beneath the glass panel of the
with machine-like regularity, all he could do was numb lightbox on which he worked, Mario’s determination to
himself with his profound exhaustion. follow his dream gave him inexhaustible resolve.
Memories were the only antidote to raise his spirits. To enable more people to see sand painting perform-
“When I was small my sister taught me to paint.” Look- ances, Mario plucked up his courage and entered the
ing back on the happy times of childhood lifted Mario’s street artist selection process. In 2015, he became the
depression somewhat. Unconsciously he began to use first foreign migrant laborer in Taiwan to be licensed as
odds and ends around him to do some casual painting.
Self-taught from the beginning
“I was really amazed when I saw other people do-
ing sand art performances.” In the hands of an artist, a
tray of sand can go through endless seemingly magical
transformations in an instant. It was this inspiration
that launched Mario’s dazzling new life. “I learned by 馬力歐最喜愛畫人像，尤其是母親和孩子，
watching videos on YouTube.” He groped his own way 並融入對父母的思念。
Mario most enjoys doing portraits, especially of mother
forward and taught himself without a teacher. and child, imbuing them with thoughts of his parents.
119
城購物中心舉行，馬力歐是主辦人。「我希望搭
AFACE：搭建交流平台
建一個交流平台。」嘉年華式的商展活動，成功
除了沙畫，馬力歐更把觸角延伸到用複合媒材匯集人氣。半年後第二次舉行，更吸引了菲律賓
作畫，也開始設計服裝，安排走秀。「我們本來就的設計師，專程來台擺攤行銷。「我們正在規劃
有一些很小的表演團體，但都是在同鄉的圈子裡，下一個活動，預訂在今（2019）年四月間。」馬
關起門來自己玩。」成為移工藝術家，馬力歐心力歐計畫以工作室或是N G O型態，整合資源，
中只想為同鄉們多做些事，讓台灣人看見他們的才擴大規模。
華。「第一次表演是受邀在西門町街頭快閃。」除
用愛享受生活
了用彩沙現場作畫，並由菲籍移工模特兒，穿著運
用環保回收材質做出的創意服飾走秀。馬力歐取得街頭藝人證照後，一直用陽春的
初試啼聲，就引起關注，馬力歐興起籌組菲律道具進行表演。「這個燈箱沙畫架，是我爸爸幫
賓移工藝術團隊的念頭，取名A FA C E，進行公他做的，三年多來跟著我們四處奔波。」馬力歐
益藝術表演。透過藝術集結眾人之力，創造多背後的支柱、太太陳心瑀笑著說。原本是語言學
贏。第一屆彩繪公益願景計畫，在新竹市遠東巨校班主任的她，被馬力歐的才華吸引，更被他善
良的天性感動。「我們募集到第一筆捐款，馬力
歐立即返鄉為貧童買書包、衣服、食物。」由相
知相惜，到彼此依靠。「我是他的助理。」來自
新竹客家的陳心瑀，甘願由正職轉兼差，專心扮
馬力歐引領外籍移工朋友走秀，搭建一個讓大家
演賢內助的角色。除了照料生活起居，還負責對
展現才能的平台，實現夢想。（馬力歐提供）
Mario has realized a dream by organizing fashion shows 外的溝通協調、中文翻譯、編寫腳本和表演內容
for migrant workers, building a platform where everyone
can show their talents. (courtesy of Mario Subeldia) 等。「他其實是務實的浪漫者。」兩人最喜歡的

擅長用複合媒材作畫的馬力歐，
色彩炫麗，張力十足。
Mario is skilled at mixed-media
paintings, producing powerful works
in dazzling colors.
are invariably impressed by the lifelike im-

ages. Besides doing charity and commercial
performances, Mario has even been invited
by the Manila Economic and Cultural Office
in Taipei to do a sand art performance at a
Philippines state banquet.
Building a platform for interactions
As well as doing sand art, Mario has also
taken up mixed-media painting and begun
to design clothes and arrange fashion shows.
As a migrant-worker artist, Mario’s prime
concern is to do something for his compatri-
ots, to enable Taiwanese to see their talents.
“For my first performance I was invited to
take part in a flash mob in Ximending.” Be-
sides using colored sand to do paintings on
the spot, Mario also designed an eco-fashion
show for Filipino migrant-worker models,
with creative clothing made from recycled
materials.
Having garnered attention with his first
shot, Mario got the notion to form an arts
troupe, named Aface, for Filipino migrant
workers, to put on charity performances. The
combination of different art forms would
create a synergistic effect. The first project,
a street artist, in his case in Taipei City as well as Hsin- “Art and Fashion: A Charity Event,” was
chu city and county. held in the Big City shopping center in Hsin-
After his first appearance on television, Mario could chu, with Mario as the organizer and direc-
not contain his excitement and immediately called tor. “I was hoping to build a platform for
home. “My father, who had suffered a stroke many interactions.” The carnival-like commercial
years previously and was unable to talk, kept happily exhibition proved very popular. The second
shouting out ‘Ah! Ah!’” People were amazed by the live event, held half a year later, even attracted
sand art performances, with their animation-like effect designers from a variety of industries in the
and backlit colors. Philippines to make a special trip to Taiwan
Mario’s greatest strength lies in the realism of his to set up stalls and sell their wares. “We are
images. Be it portraits, buildings, text or logos, clients currently preparing for the next event, which
121
馬力歐能夠依照客戶要求，
精準地製作文字或圖形的沙畫。
Mario is able to create sand-art text
or images precisely according to
clients’ wishes.
we anticipate will be held in April.” Mario is planning to

use workshops or NGO events to bring together resources
and expand in scale.
Enjoying life with love
Since acquiring his street-artist license, Mario has al-
ways performed with only the most basic of props. “This
lightbox was made by my father for Mario,” says his wife
and main behind-the-scenes supporter Chen Xinyu (a.k.a.
Samentha). “For the last three-plus years, it has gone with
us everywhere.” Chen, who comes from a Hakka family
in Hsinchu, was willing to convert her full-time job into a
part-time one in order to play the role of “good wife and
helpmate.” Besides running the household, she is also
responsible for a variety of other tasks including com-
munication and coordination with the outside world, Chi-
nese translation, scriptwriting, and performance content.
休閒活動，是手牽手，一起去看場電影。「他喜 “These days I’m very busy, but in a happy way,” says
歡橘子和香蕉，更迷戀台灣的各種水果飲料。」 Chen. How beautiful life is when one is turning one’s
用愛享受生活中平凡的小確幸。 dreams into reality! Mario not only performs in Taiwan,
「現在的日子很忙碌，但是忙的很開心。」 he was invited to participate in the TaiwanFest held in
逐夢踏實，人生多美好。不僅在台灣表演不斷， Canada in August of 2018.
“Sand art is not very widely known in Taiwan.”
2018年8月更受邀到加拿大台灣文化節參展。
Mario’s desire at the present moment is to stay in Tai-
「當時接到父親病重的消息，但是這項表演對馬
wan and promote this art form. He hopes that through
力歐的團隊太重要了。」回到台灣後，就接到了 demonstrations, events, and stage performances he can
病危通知，「我們緊急飛回菲律賓，卻沒趕上見 help migrant workers increase their incomes, and also
父親最後一面，這是最深的遺憾。」 enable Taiwanese to become more familiar with the
「沙畫在台灣還不普遍。」在台灣推廣這門 culture and unique aspects of the Philippines. “All we
藝術，是馬力歐現階段的心願。期望透過藝術展 expect is equal treatment.” Respect for cultural diversity
also allows various ethnic groups to see the friendliness
演、活動及舞台表演，協助移工朋友增加收入，
and beauty of Taiwan. In the world of sand art, where
也讓更多台灣人認識菲律賓的文化、特色。「我
there can be countless transformations in an instant, Ma-
們只期待平等的對待。」尊重多元文化，也讓多
rio has brushed away the shadows of destiny and taken
元族群看到台灣的善良和美好。就像馬力歐在瞬 the high road to happiness in life. l
息萬化的沙畫世界，抹除命運陰影，走上人生的 (Lee Shan Wei/photos by Jimmy Lin/
康莊大道一樣。 l tr. by Phil Newell)

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畫說成語平裝 Paperback US$11 本

Chinese Sayings Told in Pictures
臺灣特稀有生物
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Taiwan’s Extraordinary Plants and Animals
當西方遇見東方──國際漢學與漢學家平裝 Paperback US$11 本

When West Meets East: International Sinology and Sinologists
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Stories of Chinese Herbal Medicine
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Embrace Taiwan 100 Images of Contemporary Taiwan
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Hold that Note!—Stories from Taiwan’s Stage
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Call of the Wild—Taiwan’s Natural World
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Shindigs and Solemnity in Taiwan
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Days of Being Wild: Youth Culture in Taiwan
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全 球 ． 在 地 ． 人 文

中華民國108年4月 第44卷 第4期

總 監 ／ 鍾宜蓉 是在台灣的外國人與本地人，讓我們跟著 會，韓、日、泰、美、印尼、馬來西亞、

8 封面故事 Cover Story

島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan

藝文脈絡 Cultural Trends

6 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

“M ostly, I remember that Taiwanese were

8 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

10 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

12 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

14 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

（農委會提供 courtesy of the Council of Agriculture）

W hat did you eat for breakfast this morn-

18 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

while supplying corn-based feed.

20 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

22 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

produce, including sweet and delicious fruit throughout

24 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

M ust buildings be old to have historical significance? Not necessar-

26 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

28 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

Hidden in plain sight

30 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

An outstanding talent among Taiwan’s first postwar

32 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

上個世紀的中葉，美國中西部地區流行著 In the middle of the last century, openwork cement

素樸的舊體育館，處處可見美援時期建築的 Like other US­aid­period buildings, the Old Gym

細節。 is box­like in its construction. The gym is largely con­

34 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

36 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

由於美國人致力提升台人的科學知識水平， The US worked hard to upgrade Taiwan’s scien­

I nternational Community Radio Taipei—bet-

“This is ICRT, FM 100.” The station’s tag line is ICRT總經理Tim Berge強調ICRT扮演服務在台外僑、

38 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

40 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

42 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

C D播放機插著發射台的機器，開始做節目。」 主持人，是I C RT的傳奇人物，也是許多聽眾的

44 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

as chart countdown shows and special jazz, soul, and

46 台灣光華 Taiwan Panorama

上，從窗邊 的 位子 往外看，俯 瞰 黎 而狂 跳 不已。這 麼 多年來，我一直

斷，但現在 沒有戰事。此時是二○ 幫外公撿雞蛋，或是在廚房看外婆

貝魯特 繁忙的港口。一百多年前， 飛 機 降 落 在 貝 魯 特 機 場，機 場

那 是 一九 八 ○ 年 的 夏 天。阿 公 出 海 洋 的 海 岬，高 聳 的 懸 崖 以 及 書名：從彼山到此山

院。阿公矮小 精 瘦，身 體因為長年 流 入 此 地 的 敘 利 亞 難 民。這 裡 傳

問題、敘 述他的回憶，包括他在黎 爭開打以來，這些區分就不像以前

程，還有早年在密西西比的生活。 的旅館，因為我想離大海近一點。 ○年），是這一區少數 歷 經內戰仍

嫩的人，但 是，因 為 黎巴嫩 幾乎連 區，我 的 心 情 也 隨 之 更 加 雀 躍， 一 帶 仍 在 重 建 中，旁 邊 有 座 尚 未

年 戰 亂 不 斷，所 以 這 樣 的 旅 行 十 我終於第一次 近距離看 到地中 完 工 的 高 聳 摩 天 大 樓，讓 瑞 吉 斯

分少見。一九 六四 年，我的兩 個表 海。棕 櫚 成 行 的 步 道 沿 著 海 岸 飯 店 顯 得 嬌 小 無 比。與 其 說 瑞 吉

十 年 後，有 個 表 姐 帶 著 丈 夫 一 起 （C o r n i c h e），綿延將近五公里。 家常的民宿，讓我感到非常自在。

往黎巴嫩北部山區，並找到了阿公 幾步之 遙。我下了計 程車，走進 旅 位溫暖又周到的經理。

的故鄉安圖靈村（A i n t o u r i n e）。 館；海 平面上，午 後的陽光 正 逐漸 一 大 早，瑞 吉 斯 飯 店 大 廳 冷 冷

他 們 回 來 之 後，告 訴 我 村 裡 兩 個 轉成金黃色，夜晚即將降臨。 清 清，彷彿久無人 居，前門依然鎖

阿 尼 瑟（M a r s h a a n d S a y d e 來內戰的蹂躪（內戰結束於一九九 以 便 來 趟 清 晨 漫 步。我 發 現 有 另

找 到 側 門，從 側 門 溜 進 後 面 的 巷 進貝魯特的哈姆拉區（H a m r a）， 趣的地方。大廳的電視永遠開著，

子；於 是我們倆一起散步，在 涼 爽 這是靠近美國大學的熱鬧商業區。 通常都轉到黎巴嫩當地的ＭＴＶ音

的朝陽下沿濱海大道前行。 林 肯 走 過 這 條 路 線，因 此 是 位 好 樂 頻 道。磨 痕 累 累 的 沙 發 被 幾 個

又瘦的年 輕醫生，來自密蘇里州， 校園的許可，操場居高臨下俯瞰大 啡、閒 聊，或者 滑 手 機。多數 人或

名 叫 林 肯。林 肯 只 在 黎 巴 嫩 待 幾 海。美國大學相當氣派，由基督教 許 就像阿拉丁一樣，也 是 難 民，不

天，稍後 就要前往埃 及。我接下來 傳教士設立於十九世紀，被公認為 過在找工作或等待前往下一個國度

在 黎 巴 嫩 共 待 了 兩 週，這 兩 週 竟 黎巴嫩最頂尖的大學。校內綠意盎 之際，還負擔得起住旅館的費用。

只 遇 到 林 肯 一 位 美 國 觀 光 客。走 然，有 著 綠草 如茵的小山丘，向山 三不五時就會有黎巴嫩軍人前

著走著，我們經過幾位漁夫身邊， 下的濱海大道延伸而去。 來 盤 查 敘 利 亞 旅 客，或 許 是 出 於

苔的岩石，拋出釣線；還 看 到幾 位 斯，林肯 準備 好往機 場出發，我 和 和敘利亞人聊聊天，但又迫不及待

全球．在地．人文

中華民國108年4月第44卷第4期

總監／鍾宜蓉是在台灣的外國人與本地人，讓我們跟著會，韓、日、泰、美、印尼、馬來西亞、

（農委會提供　courtesy of the Council of Agriculture）

素樸的舊體育館，處處可見美援時期建築的 Like other USaidperiod buildings, the Old Gym

細節。 is boxlike in its construction. The gym is largely con

由於美國人致力提升台人的科學知識水平， The US worked hard to upgrade Taiwan’s scien

C D播放機插著發射台的機器，開始做節目。」主持人，是I C RT的傳奇人物，也是許多聽眾的

上，從窗邊的位子往外看，俯瞰黎而狂跳不已。這麼多年來，我一直

斷，但現在沒有戰事。此時是二○ 幫外公撿雞蛋，或是在廚房看外婆

貝魯特繁忙的港口。一百多年前，飛機降落在貝魯特機場，機場

那是一九八 ○ 年的夏天。阿公出海洋的海岬，高聳的懸崖以及書名：從彼山到此山

院。阿公矮小精瘦，身體因為長年流入此地的敘利亞難民。這裡傳

問題、敘述他的回憶，包括他在黎爭開打以來，這些區分就不像以前

程，還有早年在密西西比的生活。的旅館，因為我想離大海近一點。 ○年），是這一區少數歷經內戰仍

嫩的人，但是，因為黎巴嫩幾乎連區，我的心情也隨之更加雀躍，一帶仍在重建中，旁邊有座尚未

年戰亂不斷，所以這樣的旅行十我終於第一次近距離看到地中完工的高聳摩天大樓，讓瑞吉斯

分少見。一九六四年，我的兩個表海。棕櫚成行的步道沿著海岸飯店顯得嬌小無比。與其說瑞吉

十年後，有個表姐帶著丈夫一起（C o r n i c h e），綿延將近五公里。家常的民宿，讓我感到非常自在。

往黎巴嫩北部山區，並找到了阿公幾步之遙。我下了計程車，走進旅位溫暖又周到的經理。

的故鄉安圖靈村（A i n t o u r i n e）。館；海平面上，午後的陽光正逐漸一大早，瑞吉斯飯店大廳冷冷

他們回來之後，告訴我村裡兩個轉成金黃色，夜晚即將降臨。清清，彷彿久無人居，前門依然鎖

阿尼瑟（M a r s h a a n d S a y d e 來內戰的蹂躪（內戰結束於一九九以便來趟清晨漫步。我發現有另

找到側門，從側門溜進後面的巷進貝魯特的哈姆拉區（H a m r a），趣的地方。大廳的電視永遠開著，

子；於是我們倆一起散步，在涼爽這是靠近美國大學的熱鬧商業區。通常都轉到黎巴嫩當地的ＭＴＶ音

的朝陽下沿濱海大道前行。林肯走過這條路線，因此是位好樂頻道。磨痕累累的沙發被幾個

又瘦的年輕醫生，來自密蘇里州，校園的許可，操場居高臨下俯瞰大啡、閒聊，或者滑手機。多數人或

名叫林肯。林肯只在黎巴嫩待幾海。美國大學相當氣派，由基督教許就像阿拉丁一樣，也是難民，不

天，稍後就要前往埃及。我接下來傳教士設立於十九世紀，被公認為過在找工作或等待前往下一個國度

在黎巴嫩共待了兩週，這兩週竟黎巴嫩最頂尖的大學。校內綠意盎之際，還負擔得起住旅館的費用。

只遇到林肯一位美國觀光客。走然，有著綠草如茵的小山丘，向山三不五時就會有黎巴嫩軍人前

著走著，我們經過幾位漁夫身邊，下的濱海大道延伸而去。來盤查敘利亞旅客，或許是出於

苔的岩石，拋出釣線；還看到幾位斯，林肯準備好往機場出發，我和和敘利亞人聊聊天，但又迫不及待

晨泳的泳客以及做日光浴的人。我他道別。接著我遇到了旅館的櫃想再多探索貝魯特。方才清晨迷人

俱樂部出發，一直走到知名的白頓早餐。旅館的房租不含餐費，不再多四處看看。

鴿岩（Pigeon Rocks）那裡，走了過阿拉丁似乎不在意這點，他開心稍事休息之後，我再次踏上一早

大約四十分鐘；白鴿岩從貝魯特的向大廳每個人提供免費的食物和林肯散步的部分路線。此時濱

高雅的勞切爾（Raouché）海岸突和飲料。早餐包括一片美味的扁麵海大道上的人更多了，天空明亮蔚

出海面。包，上面塗著優格起司，還有香濃藍，陽光開始散發熱力。

林肯指著濱海大道對面山丘上的黎巴嫩咖啡。我在哈姆拉區的幾間書店停下

的房子，他聽說一間房子至少都阿拉丁個子高䠷，皮膚白皙，是腳步，買了一張黎巴嫩地圖和一本

要四百萬美元；他再補充，即使是來自敘利亞阿勒坡（Aleppo）的難關於現代貝魯特的小說，接著在

萬美元。貝魯特這個城市顯然寸土吉斯飯店工作。他的家園毀於敘餐廳中庭，點了完整的黎巴嫩套餐

寸金，我們都覺得能找到像瑞吉斯利亞內戰，事實上整座村莊都毀（之後大都只吃些點心）。服務生

飯店這樣的地方真是幸運，不只房於戰亂。阿拉丁的家人在戰爭爆發問我這是不是我第一次到貝魯特，

價低廉，位置又很方便。前就搬走了，因此能夠安然無恙的我說沒錯，而且隔天我就要動身

我們走到白鴿岩附近，這是貝魯住在伊斯坦堡。他覺得可惜的是，去尋找素未謀面的親戚。聽到我

特海岸的代表地標，然後在路邊家裡遭到轟炸時，他的電腦也付的話，服務生臉上露出驚訝的表

我們一邊享用果仁蜜餅、喝葡萄冰臨，他就要重建家園。他讓我看蘋你這麼說，我都起了雞皮疙瘩，聽

沙，一邊欣賞海岸邊這兩座巨大白果手機裡阿勒坡的照片，還有他起來實在太棒了！」

色石灰岩的奇形異狀，試著分辨它家炸毀之前的照片，當時一切皆無下午，我繼續探索哈姆拉區，

們看起來到底像不像鴿子。比祥和。發現一間羅馬天主教教堂，進教

堂簡單參觀，還看見幾間有意思全國八百萬人當中，每四人就有一軍人問路。我始終覺得很安全。

的店。黎巴嫩內戰對哈姆拉區的人是難民，大部分是敘利亞人，但夜色即將降臨時，我走過旅館

破壞不像市中心那麼嚴重。事實也有五十萬的巴勒斯坦人。附近的港口，看到一座綠草如茵

上，正因為大部分轟炸都落在市中我很喜歡貝魯特。貝魯特既精的小山丘，以前或許是遭到轟炸

心，所以人們才湧向哈姆拉區；哈巧又國際化，有來自中東形形色的市區的一部分；市區尚未全面重

姆拉區現在成了時髦的去處。哈色的人，還有一些西方人。由於曾建完成。在涼爽的微風中，草原逐

姆拉區僅有的困苦跡象來自敘利經受到法國統治多年，這裡還有漸布滿居民，他們帶狗來遊戲、運

亞難民，他們大都是黑衣婦女，坐一股優雅的歐洲氛圍。儘管如此，動；暮色讓草原看來如此超現實。

在人行道上乞討，或者是衣衫襤褸幾乎所有標誌都寫英文，幾乎每個我盯著狗狗看了好久，其中一隻黃

的孩子，等著為路人擦鞋。自從敘我遇到的人也都好像至少能講幾金獵犬跑過來跳到我身上；我有一

利亞內戰開打以來，貝魯特的人口句英文。有幾條街上有軍人站崗，隻黃金獵犬也老是這樣。我開始

增加了一倍。就黎巴嫩而言，現在不過他們相當友善，我偶爾會向想念我的狗了。