Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Easy Guidet
Sergi
Fine F;��
Easy Guide to
Serging Fine
Fabrics
Kitty Benton
ITIThe'P<lUnton Press
E-
Boo
kISBN:978
-6008
5-5
3 4-
4
For Charlie and Hank
Why bother with a serger? Because it's fast! With a serger, you
can stitch, trim, and overcast a seam in one step instead of three,
and in less than half the time of a conventional sewing machine.
This remarkable machine cuts hours of precious sewing time from
large and small projects, and will often give you more professional
results than a conventional sewing machine.
4
If you already own a serger, let me share my excitement and
professional secrets with you to help you discover new ways of
getting the most from your machine. If you are still thinking
about buying one, this guide, based on years of personal
experience and experimentation, will help you decide which
features and threading variations will best serve your needs.
At the end of the book is a handy photo index that will help you
to review, compare, and locate the finishes introduced in the main
text. This section will boost your creativity with the serger
because you will see at a glance the various treatments you can
use, from utility seaming to special decorative effects and
monogramming. Setting boxes tell you just how to thread and
adjust your serger for the treatments shown in the photos. You
will also see the decorative potential of fabrics, threads, and
edgings and design them into your projects.
Introduction 5
EASY GUIDE TO SERGING FINE FABRICS
8
How a Serger Works 10
Demys tifyin
g Anatomy of a Serger
Getting the Most from Your Machine
10
14
18
Initial Threading 18
S tartin
g to Stitch 19
Adjusting the Tensions 20
Adjusting the Cutting Width 21
Adjusting the Stitch Length 22
Hints for Trouble-Free Sewing 23
-- 24
Selecting Fabrics 26
Fabrics, Knits 26
64
Festive De tailin
g 78
Fancy Hems 78
Lace Applique 81
Gathered Ruffles 83
Bias Tubing 84
Photo Index 96
Index 110
Demystifying
the Serger
8
How a Serger Works
Anatomy of a Serger
Although there are many different models and makes of sergers,
all have a shelf at the back of the square frame (on some models,
a convenient c arryi
ng handle is built right into the frame) to hold
spools or cones of thread on three, four, or five spindles,
depending on the capability of the model. An extension bar raises
each thread above the spools, allowing it to unwind evenly from
the spool and feed smoothly into the primary thread gUides
without tangling.
\\ \
Two knife blades trim the edge of the fabric as you stitch. In many
models, the upper blade is mounted on a shaft above the throat
plate to the right of the needles. The lower blade is housed in
front of the loopers to the right of the feed dog on the throat plate.
As you stitch, the upper knife blade moves alongside the
stationary lower blade in a scissors-like cutting action. The
Upper and lower knife blades trim
moving knife blade is usually spring-mounted to maintain the fabric. (Presser foot removed
constant pressure against the stationary knife blade. for clarity.)
Stitch fingers, set into the stitch bed beneath each needle,
support the thread loops as they form. Loops overlock around the
two right stitch fingers when the right needle is used alone. The
left stitch finger supports wider loops when the left needle is used
alone and defines the safety seam when both needles are used
together. A third. or overlock, stitch finger supports the loops as
they interlock over the trimmed edge of the fabric.
After the stitches have been secured by the needles, the rear feed
dog teeth slide the stitches off the stitch fingers.
Stitch length: Use longer stitch lengths for less coverage, shorter
lengths for denser stitching (p. 22).
Cutting width: Adj ust the distance between the trimmed edge
and the needles (p. 2 1 ) to make the overcast edges either lie flat or
roll into tiny hems.
Needle Options
Th ree- and four-thread convertible models stitch w ith
th ree or four threads. Both need l es are used for four
thread appl ications, and either need le may be
removed for th ree-thread appl ications. Remove the
right need le for w ider coverage on heavier fabrics.
Remove the left need le for narrower coverage on
l ighter fabrics and rol led hems.
Looper Options
I n addition to using th ree- and four-thread
app l i cations, with two-, th ree-, and fou r-thread serger You can change the look of your stitching by how
models you can bypass the u pper looper and use you thread the serger. The setups that produced these
e ither need le to stitch with two threads. stitches are described in the chart below.
Sample Color Left N eedle Right Needle Upper Looper Lower Looper
B l ue removed x x x
Brown x removed x x
Pink x x x x
Optional Features
Differential feed and adjustable pressure-foot pressure are offered
as options on many sergers. Understanding how they work will
help you realize the full capabilities of your serger or help you
evaluate different models when making a purchase.
Dilferential Feed Because the serger has two feed dogs, the
front and rear teeth can be set at different speeds. When the
speeds are the same (dial at N or at 1, depending on the model) ,
the fabric enters and leaves the stitch bed at the same speed.
Accessories for the serger include specialized throat plates and A wav}-j stretched edge can be
presser feet for specific applications. remedied by increasing the
differential feed.
Various spec i a l ized throat plates and presser feet a l low a wide range
of appl ications such as rol l hem m i ng; del icate sea m i ng; bl i nd
hem m i ng; gathering; and applying elastic, b i nd i ng, or cord i ng. Some
sergers are fu l l y automated and requ i re no change of presser feet or
throat plates for these appl ications, w h i l e others requ i re certa i n
adjustments, someti mes i n c l ud i ng a change o f throat p l ate and
presser foot. Usu a l l y cost accompan ies conve n ience, a l though
convenience can be worth paying for i n the l ong r u n .
Initial Threading
Most manufacturers make threading easier by color coding
primary gUides and tension wheels. If you've never threaded a
serger before. the task will be simpler if you select spools of
ordinary sewing thread to match the color codes on your
machine. Study the threading diagrams in your instruction
booklet and use the long tweezers supplied in the accessory pack
to help thread the loopers. Follow the threading instructions
carefully. Most stitching problems resultjrom incorrect threading.
Starting to Stitch
Select a medium-weight, crisp, woven fabric in a solid color that
contrasts well with your thread choices.
Set the controls for needle and looper tensions at normal range as
indicated by your manufacturer, and select normal (or medium)
stitch settings for length, cutting width, and other optional
features such as differential feed and presser-foot pressure.
Begin and end your stitching with a
Sewing without fabriC, chain a thread tail of 2 in. or 3 in. to
short thread chain.
prevent thread and fabric jams. Watch the thread chain to be sure
it doesn't curl around and re-enter the stitch bed.
Stop sewing the thread chain while you position your fabric j ust
in front of the presser-foot toe.
Chain a 3-in. to 5-in. long thread tail off the edge of the fabric
before cutting the thread.
1 If lower-looper threads 2 If upper-looper stitches are visible 3 If needle threads form small
straggle over the edge of the on the underside of the fabric, the beadlike loops of thread on the
fabric and are visible from the top tensions of the loopers are not underside of the fabric, the
side, the tensions of the upper balanced. Tighten the upper-looper needle threads are too loose.
and lower looper are not tension in small increments, and Tighten the appropriate needle
balanced. Tighten the lower release the lower-looper tension tension slightly. If needle threads
looper tension in small if necessary. are too tight, the stitches will
increments before releasing the pucker. Loosen the appropriate
tension of the upper looper. tension dial.
If the fabric twists under the stitches, the cutting width If loops form in the air rather than at the edge of the
is too wide. fabric, the cutting width is too narrow.
If the loops overlock in the air rather than at the edge of the
fabric, the cutting width is too narrow. Follow the manufacturer's
instructions to increase cutting width, and watch the blade
housing move to the right.
A tweezers a n d small screwdriver are handy for To change a blade, follow the manufacturer's
changing a needle. instructions.
To keep the machine clean and lint free, frequently open the panel
door and clean the dust away from the looper mechanisms,
cutting blades, and feed dogs. A small brush for this purpose
is usually included with the accessories, but canisters of
compressed air, sold at computer-supply stores, are even better.
A blast of compressed air will
To keep household dust out of the machine, cover it when not
help remove dust and lint from
in use.
inside the serger.
The first choice you make when planning any proj ect is fabric.
Eye appeal, function, and the styling of the garment you plan
are the primary factors in your choice, but especially when
serging, the decisions you make concerning treads and notions
will be an important part of the appearance and success of your
finished proj ect.
Even if you originally planned to use the serger for quick and
efficient seaming, this chapter will give old hands and beginners
alike many new reasons to keep the serger in mind when buying
new patterns or adding flair to tried-and-true favorites.
24
Selecting Fabrics
Hea vyw
eight fabrics have the thickest yarns and often very dense
weaves, such as twill or pile. Use heavier needles and threads to
construct and decorate these fabrics.
Kni
ts
Like woven fabrics, knits can be light, medium, or heavy,
according to the weight and thickness of the yarn and the density
of the knit. Knits can also be of any fiber, natural or synthetic.
The lightest knits are single knits, in which the wrong side looks
different from the right and a single row of loops will appear on
the edge of the fabric as it unravels. Double knits have two right
sides and reveal a double row of loops as they unravel. Jerseys,
matte jerseys, interlocks, ribbing, tricots, fleeces, sweater knits,
spandex, Lycra, and panne velvets and velours are all knits that
lend themselves to successful serging.
Medium-weight fabrics.
Heavyweight fabrics.
Selecting Fabrics 27
Choosing Thr
ead
!
j
1 Tie in a new thread (blue) to the old (red) with a 2 Be sure that the knot is secure before threading it
simple overhand knot. through the serger.
3 Stitch or pull the knot through the eye of the 4 Thread the looper with a loop of regular garment
looper. thread (red) and pull thick, fuzzy thread (blue) through
the eye.
Choosing Thread 29
Decorative Threads
When it comes to decorative threads, sergers have it hands down
over conventional machines. Thick threads that have to be wound
by hand on the bobbins of conventional machines pass easily
through the larger looper eyes. Since the serger spindles can
easily hold entire spools, creative combinations of decorative
thread can be chained into lengths to make custom piping and
braid. Woolly nylon fluffs up to embellish a seam with decorative
flatiocking, and raw edges can be overcast quickly with fancy
finishes in place of hems and facings.
The type of fabric you are using will determine the size needle you
need. Heavier fabrics require larger needles, and lighter fabrics
require smaller ones. For example, with denims, velvets, and
corduroy I generally use a size 70 needle. With lighter-weight
fabrics such as batiste, charmeuse, or organza, I generally use a
size 90 needle.
Selecting Needles 31
Basting Techniques
Pinning
The serger will not sew over pins! At best, either the pin or the
needle will break. At worst, the knives will be damaged and the
timing of the machine disrupted. When pins are called for, such
as when matching plaids or holding very slippery fabriCS, place
them at least 1 in. inside the raw edge so there is no danger of
one inadvertently passing through the stitch bed. On fabrics that
may retain permanent pin marks, place pins at right angles to the
seam line and be exceptionally vigilant about removing them from
the seam allowance as you stitch; or consider other ways of
securing the two layers, such as taping or glue basting.
Starching
Starching. though not really a form of basting. can serve the same
purpose by stabilizing tricky fabriCS. making them easier to sew.
For lightweight fabrics and laces starch can actually bond two
layers temporarily. Laces stretch like bias fabric and need to be
stabilized with starch before stitching. Lay a protective covering
over your ironing board (p . 35) and spray lightly. Allow the starch
to settle into the lace before pressing. Stretch lace slightly as you
steam with a medium-hot iron. A press cloth keeps starch from Spray starch and pressing will
building up on the sole plate of your iron and prevents scorch stabilize lightweight fabrics
marks on your lace or fabric. Similarly. if you are joining lace to and laces.
fabriC. starch very lightweight cottons to help support the lace
during stitching.
Basting Techniques 33
Other Helpful Products
Bias Tricot
When hemming difficult fabrics, Bias tricot is a tape of o/s-in. or 1 Y4-in. width that comes in white,
bias tricot tape helps control black, and several basic colors; it is packaged in rolls and sold as
the edges. a seam binding to control fraying. In the serger it helps control
stray threads that tend to escape when rolling difficult fabrics or
bias areas during roll hemming. Serge decorative threads over
the folded edge to create piping and braid; the tricot forms the
seam allowance. It is strong enough to reinforce knit shoulder
seams that might sag or stretch, yet flexible enough to let the
fabric "give."
Fusible Thread
Fusible thread is sold on cones as a basting and positioning
aid. For serging, manufacturers recommend threading the looper
of the side that will be fused. (For example, if the wrong side of
the fabric is to be fused, thread the lower looper and sew right
side up.)
Fusible thread in the lower looper Cover every stitch of the fusible thread with a press cloth before
can be pressed to form a hem.
applying the iron. Light fUSing will be sufficient preparation for
final topstitching; longer fUSing at higher heat and more pressure
may yield a permanent bond .
Preven t i ro n i m p r i nts o f
serged s e a m a l l owa nces by
t u c k i n g fo l ded stri ps of p a pe r
towel beneath a l l ow a nces
d u ri n g p ress i n g . Press a s u s u a l
w i t h a p p ro p r i ate h eat a n d
ste a m setti ngs.
The speed of the serger affects how you gUide fabric into it.
Understanding what to expect and knowing the right ways to
position your hands help you to gain control and manipulate
fabric through the stitching process. It's easy to learn the basics ,
because they grow logically out o f understanding the way the
serger works. Once learned , they become the foundation for
specific applications such as seams, interior finishes, and hems.
36
Building Serger Skills
Understanding
Where the
Knives Cut
Know i ng where the k n i ves cut Practice your stitches and seams on scrap fabric. Stripes will help you
i n rel ation to the stitc h i ng is the guide the fabric in a straight line.
fi rst step i n m astering the serger.
Once you are certa i n that you
Cut a 1 2- i n . length of stri ped
won't cut away too much of you r
fabric w i th a rel atively wide str i pe
fabric by accident, you w i l l g a i n
(a l - i n . stri pe is ideal) and c a l m
confidence. A few moments of
colors that w i l l withstand i ntense
practice w ith a striped fabric w i l l
focus without t i r i ng your eyes.
h e l p bu i ld accu racy and contro l .
Select a med i u m-long stitch
A t the beg i n n i ng, focus you r eyes
length and a t h read color that lets
on the knife blade, then grad u a l l y
you focus eas i l y on the fabric
sh ift you r attention forward t o the
beneath the stitches. Set the
toe of the presser foot and the
cutti ng width at its widest setti ng.
fabric pass i n g beneath it.
Thread tensions and feed options
Most models of sergers now help (if any) shou ld be normal .
you gu ide the fabric w ith
At fi rst, focus o n the i n ner edge of
i n d ications on the toe of the
the stationary kn ife b l ade (nearest
presser foot that show the
the need les), then stitch u n t i l the
positions of the need l es and
cut edge i s perfectl y stra ight and
stationary kn ife. If you r serger
coi n c ides exactly with the edge of
lacks these, you can mark your
the str i pe. Usual ly, when the
own as you become aware of the
cutt i ng w idth i s at its widest
relationsh i ps between the toe of
setti ng, the right edge of the
the presser foot and the stitc h i n g
presser-foot toe w i l l coi ncide with
mechanisms o f t h e serger.
the i n ner edge of the stationary
knife b l ade.
Narrow cutting widths are best for overcast i ng tiny Movi n g the position of the b l ade housing changes
seams on del icate fabrics and for flatlocking tri mmed the cutting w idth . The widest setti n g is shown i n
edges. Wide cutt i n g widths are used for overcasting the photo a t left; the narrowest is shown i n the photo
at right.
Pu l l the th read c h a i n beh ind the presser foot u ntil the Swing the presser foot back ( i f necessary), lower it,
stitch fingers c l ear. and resu me sewing to chain a thread tai l .
To clear the stitch fingers without fabric in the To clear the stitch fingers with fabric in the machine,
machine, chain, then pull slack in the thread. pull the fabric back until the fingers clear. (Presser
(Presser foot removed for clarity.) foot removed for clarity.)
Foldin g on
Position t h e need le r i g h t a t
t h e fol d .
Makin g a Cutout
2 End a circular edge by clearing the stitch fingers and chaining off so
stitching is continuous.
Two-needle non
continuous method
Us i n g a l a rge-eyed hand-sewi ng
To follow an inside curve, push the To seam outsidf! corners with two need le, run the thread tai l back
fabric toward the knife as you stitch. needles, place the hand-trimmed th rough the stitc h i ng to conceal it.
portion of the second side flush
One-needle method for
against the knives.
continuous decorative stitchin g
When stitc h i ng corners, adjust the cutting width for U se the left need le o n l y for:
each fabric. Adj ust to as narrow a width as possible
• Crisp med i u m- and heavyweight fabrics that w i l l
that keeps stitches from fa l l i n g off the edge. You a l so
su pport wider decorative stitch i ng a n d heavier thread
need to select the right needle com bi nat i o n .
U se the right need le only for:
U se two need les for:
• A l l fabrics, particu larly del icates
• Grad ual curves
• Overcast prestitched i nterior corners
• Outside corners ( u s i ng the non-conti n uous stitch
method, which i s descri bed on p. 46) • A l l other corners and cu rves
Plackets can be finished by using the inside-corner Even delicate plackets like this lingerie placket may
technique (p. 47). be edged with lace using the inside-corner technique.
00 not stitch over the tape that holds the lace in
place; remove each piece as you come to it.
Use both hands to pull the fabric taut under the needle.
Machine Easing
When fabric h as a tendency to
stretch , i nvoke the d i fferential
feed option (using setti ngs above
normal), or d u p l icate its effect
man u a l l y by placing your fi nger
or a tool such as a screwd river
bl ade fl ush aga i nst the hee l of the
presser foot. A l low the fabric to
p i l e up agai nst the restriction as
you stitch, releasi n g and
reposition i n g every few i nches.
The long foot and feed dog have a Hold grain by pressing the fabric
tendency to d i stort stretchy areas to the deck of the serger with the
of gra i n such as bi as, c i rc u l ar, or right hand.
d i agon a l seams. To prevent t h i s,
"hold gra i n " as you sew. Press the
fabric to the deck of the serger
with you r right hand and keep
you r eye on the weave to be sure
threads are cross i n g at right a ngles
as the fabric enters the presser
foot. The seam a l l owance may
appear sl ightly ripp led, but the
presser foot w i l l fl atten it aga i n
d u r i ng stitc h i ng .
Overstitching
at the End
of a Seam
Fol low t h i s method if it is
necessary to stitch the ta i l at the
end of the sea m .
Overstitching the thread tail at the end of the stitching can be done by
clearing the stitch fingers, then flipping the fabric over.
2 Overlock the elastic to the fabric, stretching the elastic as it's sewn.
Gathering
L i g htwe i g h t fab r i cs m a y be
gathered w i t h o u t a spec i a l
attac h ment.
setti ngs to produce very narrow was hi ng, but take care to use a
stitch widths, and use the press c l oth to prevent traces of
narrowest poss ible cutting w idth the stab i l izer from fou l i ng the
so the fabric wi II not rol l . bottom of you r i ron . For more
Decrease the stitch length and t i ps on water-so l u b l e sta bi l izers,
i ncrease the tensions grad u a l l y if see p. 3 5 .
the stitches are v i s i b l e from the
Two- and Three-Thread
right side.
Rolled Seams For a rol led
Bias Hairline Seam B i as seam, choose a wide cutt i ng
h a i rl i ne seams are exactly l i ke w idth so the seam a l l owance w i l l
any th ree-thread h a i rl i n e seam rol l i nto the sea m . Rol led seams
o n gra i n , but the b i as is so l i kely may be sewn on lengthwise or
to stretch that the d ifferential crosswise gra i n . B i as and d i agon a l
feed shou l d be put to the gra i ns a r e d iffic u lt to rol l neatly, a s
h ighest setti ng. t h e b i as threads escape from the
seam, giving it an u n sightly
If bias stretches even when
appearance. For b i as edges,
d i fferential feed i s at its h ighest
choose s i m ple h a i rl i n e seams
setti ng, stitch the seam on top of a Two-thread rolled seam; see setting
i n stead of ro l l ed seams. Crisp
strip of water-sol u ble sta b i l izer. chart, p. 98.
fabrics can tolerate a stiff thread,
Tea r sta b i l izer away from both
such as c lear fi l ament nylon,
sides of the seam after stitc h i n g .
but use flex i b l e t h reads such
A n y stab i l izer remai n i ng i n the
as Orion or woo l l y nylon with
seam w i l l d i ssol ve at the fi rst
softer fabrics.
G arment sections c a n al so be
staystitched or "framed" with
serg i n g before sea m i ng. Most fi ne
fabrics shou ld be overcast w ith
three th reads, with the left need le
omitted for a narrower stitc h .
Need les, loopers, a n d c utti ng Narrow overlocking can be used to finish areas like armholes.
Single-Layer Overcasting
When stitched conventional
seams are to be pressed open,
overcast each side separately,
tri m m i n g away j ust enough from
the seam a l l owance to neaten
the edge.
T h read t h e serger w i t h colors Blind hems are sewn wrong side up after pinning an S-fold at the hemline;
that blend eas i l y i nto the fabric, see setting chart, p. 1 02.
loosen the need le tension, tighten
the lower- looper tension, and
moderately loosen the u pper
looper tension, as you wou l d for
flatloc k i n g (p. 5 8 ) .
Even though 90% of the time you might use your serger to finish
seams, it doesn't mean that all the fun and creativity of serging
are limited to the remaining 1 0% of specialized uses. The essence
of good design is appropriate use of fabric combined with well
executed construction. If you are like me, you will enjoy the
challenge of selecting the best possible settings to add to the
professional quality of your work.
64
Working with Kni
ts
Knits are the most fun of all to sew on the serger. Serger
seams are quick and easy, and most knit styling is
simple, so projects are not difficult to finish. The flexibility
of serger stitches allows them to move with the knit
without breaking, so every knit fabric can be stretched
hOrizontally to become self ribbing for neckbands
and cuJfs.
An Elegant
Knit Top
Any d ressy k n i t, such as s i l k or
rayon jersey or velour, t u rns a
u t i l ity tee sh i rt i n to an elegant k n i t
top. A serged horizontal band of
self fabric makes an e l egant fi n ish
for the neckl i ne and cuffs of a fi ne
knit top. Choose narrow bands for
crew necks and short sl eeves,
wider ones for t u rtlenecks or
tu rnback cuffs for long sleeves.
Thread Accents
Textu red novelty threads can
out l i ne seams or the geometric
shapes of col la rs, cuffs, and
pocket fl aps. Treat decorative and
novelty threads as part of the
overa l l des ign, choos i n g them to
blend, h ig h l ight, or accent colors
in the weave or design . Match the
we ight of the thread to the weight
of the fabric.
Tucking
Serger tucks are a good way to
add deta i l s to ta i lored styles. They
en hance the texture of the weave
and, by d rawing the eye to the
d i rection of the tuck, underscore
the vertical or horizontal aspects
of the design s i l houette.
Tailored Finishes 71
A p i n p laced t h rough the fabric at
a 4 5 ° angle secu res the beg i n n i ng
of the tuck to the i ron i n g board,
enab l i ng you to pu l l the fabric
taut and press c risp folds (2).
4 Position the pattern over the fabric that has been tucked.
Tailored Finishes 73
Flatlocked decorative thread can To serge a flatlocked seam :
replace piping in a seam.
Prepare each section to be
joi ned as you r pattern d i rects.
(The pocket band in the photo
at left has been i nterfaced and
pressed prior to flatlock i ng it to
the pocket.)
Decorative
Chaining without
Fabric
A few adj ustments i n stitch length
and tension are necessary to
c h a i n decorative braids (see the
bottom chart on p. 1 05 ) . Retai n
the basic fl atlock thread i ngs
and sett i ngs (see the top chart
on p. 1 05), but return the need l e
tension to norm a l . Loosen the
u pper looper to make l a rge loops
(bypass the tension a ltogether if
the lowest tension setti ngs do not
produce even results), and tighten
the lower looper to m a i nta i n the
shape of the bra i d . I nc rease the
stitch length as necessary to keep
Chaining without fabric creates a decorative braid. the stitches from jamm i ng on the
stitch fi nger without the feed dog
and fabric to carry them away.
Chaining over fusible thread makes a press-on braid Fuse the chain in place, using a scrap of organdy to
that can be used for monogramming. protect the iron from glue.
Tailored Finishes 75
QU ICK SQUARE PROJ ECT:
L I N E D EYEG LASS CASE WITH TUCKS AN D MONOG RAM
Try out a variety of decorative tai lored deta i ls with U s i ng you r eyeglasses as a gu ide, trace a pattern on
some l i ned eyeglass cases. a piece of paper, u s i ng a ruler to ensu re that the sides
are straight, and c u rv i ng the top s l i ghtly.
Cut a rectangle of fabric l O i n . by 2 0 i n .
P lace the bottom of the pattern aga i nst the crosswise
Mark and stitch the decorative tucks o f you r choice
fold of the fabric, and cut out the case.
to embe l l ish the case.
U nfold the case and serge the c u rve of each top
Cut a l i n i n g to fit the tucked rectangle, and fuse the
edge. Refold the case and, starting at the bottom fold,
l i n i ng to the wrong side of the fabric.
serge through all layers to close each s ide. For
Fold the tucked fabric i n half crosswise, and prepare a q u ick shou lder strap, continue to serge without
and position a thread-cha i n monogram between the fabric for the length of the strap before c losing the
tucks, if des i red . second side, this time sew i ng from top to bottom .
Tailored Finishes 77
Festive Det ailin
g
Fancy Hems
Hemm i ng the large swee p i ng
s k i rts, tu l le vei ls, and cascades of
ruffles that are common i n
spec i al -occas ion and bridal wear
can be a frustrati ng, time
consu m i ng chore by hand or by
the conventional mach i ne . Let the
serger do the work for you . Refer
to pages 61 and 62 for how to
ease a large c i rc u l a r hem or
prepared a narrow topstitched
hem ("baby hem").
78
U se a narrow sheer hem to
make you r own custom
r i bbons! Cut strips of sheer
organza or organdy and fi n i sh
both edges with t i ny folded
hems to c reate custom
ri bbons for h a i r ornaments,
sashes, or gift wraps.
Festive Detailing 79
•
Wide thread tracing can be applied to net and tulle.
Overcast a l l the raw edges of each piece with thread Pu l l up the basting stitches to gather all layers together.
trac ing (pp. 79-80).
Use your i magination ! Trim fabric scraps with one of
Layer the pieces together and hand-baste them the edgings in this book to make quick coord i nati ng
together verticlaly through the center with strong tai lored or festive hair ornaments. Or make custom
thread and long stitches. ri bbons (p. 79), and tie in bows .
Lace Applique
Lace appl i q ue i s a pop u l a r fi n i s h
for t h e hems, sleeves, and necks
of spec i a l -occas ion wear, bridal
gowns, s leepwear, and l i ngerie.
Prepare the l ace appl ique as your
pattern or design d i rects. Trace the
shape of the l ace o n to the
recei v i ng area of the garment,
mod i fy i n g extreme shapes as
m uc h as possi ble. F i n i s h the
traced out l i n e with a n arrow,
balanced th ree-thread overlock.
Refer to pp. 46-47 for help with
i nside and outside corners.
Festive Detailing 81
MONOFI LAMENT H EM
You can give a soft, fi l my fabric a sl ightly wiry edge Mark the beg i n n i ng of the cutting l i ne on the fabric
by hem m i ng over monofi lament. with a crease or removable marker to help gu ide
your eye as you feed the fabric. Al ign the mark with
Control the u n ruly stiff curls of monofi lament at the
the edge of the cutting blade and position the fabric
beg i n n i ng of the seam by taping the end in position
right side up underneath the fi lament.
beh i nd the presser foot. With the spool secure in a
plastic freezer bag or cup, stretch the fi lament taut As the fabric begins to rol l over the monofilament,
above the right stitch fi nger, and chain 6 i n . or 7 i n . use your left hand to ensure that the monofi lament
without fabric. Remove the tape after the first few moves smoothly away from the heel of the presser
inches to al low the cha i n to flow freely off the foot without al lowing the fabric to bunch up over it.
stitch fi nger.
At the end of the hem, cha i n over the monofi lament
Monofi lament is so s l i ppery that it wi l l tend to pu l l another 8 i n . to l O i n . before passi ng it in front of the
out of the seam, but you can tape the beg i n n i ng of knife to cut.
the fi lament thread chain to hold it i n place.
Secure the end of the monofi lament with tape u nti l
you stitch the crossing seam.
A monofilament hem can give a crisp finish to the Control monofilament by securing it with tape at
edge of a filmy fabric. the beginning of the seam and stretching it taut as
you sew.
Festive Detailing 83
1 Cut 2-in. wide bias strips, fold, Bias Tubing
and mark the stitching line.
B ias tu b i n g is a d readed chore for
many sewers. With the serger,
t u bi ng is rid i c u l ously easy to
make. It stitches and trims the t i ny
seam a l l owances perfectly, and
s i n ce the stitches "give" when you
pu l l lengths right side out, you
won 't get the popped seams that
can ru i n tu b i ngs sewn on the
conventional mach i ne.
Festive Detailing 85
To make button loops, tape bias tubing over the pattern and serge it into
position on the stabilizer.
Easy Button Loops Lengths of Tape the cut loops to the sta b i l izer
bias t ub i ng can repl ace pu rc hased and staystitch them in position.
cord i ng or ri bbon when a
Align the raw edge of the
pattern's c losi ngs or design deta i ls
sta bi l ized loops over the
ca l l for decorative l aces and ties.
buttonhole side of the c losi ng,
Mark a strai ght l i ne to represent and staystitch to the garment ju st
the seam l i ne on a p iece of i nside the sea m l i ne . Tear the
stabi I i zer. Center the buttons over sta b i l izer away before fac i ng
the l i ne, spac i n g them as they w i l l the c10si ng.
b e sewn to the garment.
Buttons and Frogs When
Mark each side and the top of the d ivid i ng longer lengths of bias
butto n . Remove the buttons and t u bi ng i nto shorter segments for
loop the bias so that the marki ngs loop c losi ngs and straps, mark the
are v i s i b l e with i n the loop and the measurement of each segment
bias extends to the cutt i ng l i ne. (plus desi red seam a l lowances)
The loops w i l l resemble tiny and use the serger to cut and
c roquet w i c kets. fi n ish the t i ny ends of each
segment. Overcasting w i l l sl ightly
Mark and cut the bias tub i ng
flatten the segment ends and
accord i ng to the i n structions that
m ake them easier to p i n and stitch
fol l ow in " Buttons and F rogs."
i nto garment seam s .
Festive Detailing 87
Working with
Delicate Fabrics
3 Prepare the top edge of the camisole by marking the seamline, trimminK
and centering the lace pattern.
5 Roll-hem the lace to the camisole between bust points. Fold the ends of
the lace out of the way so you won't stitch them into the seam allowance.
7 With the stitch fingers cleared, position the folded lace at the start of the
underarm seam under the needle with the L portion of the cutout flush with
the inside of the lower knife blade.
9
th read ri bbon t h rough l ace
Trim excess lace close to the zigzag stitching.
bead i ng . Trace the outl i ne of the
bust poi nts onto the bea d i ng
assembly and overcast the outl i ne. Loosen the need l e tension fu l l y,
and loosen the looper tensions
Pin the prepared strap to the moderately. I nc rease the stitc h
cam i so l e, matc h i n g the center of length t o 4mm, set t h e b l i nd
the bead i n g to the center of the hemmer gu ide if you have one,
bust point and the flatlocked edge and serge, lett i n g the need l e
to the i n ner edge of the rol l hem. bare l y penetrate t h e fol ded edge
Edgestitch i n the d itch to secu re, of the fabric as it overcasts the
and h a nd-tack the l ace to the raw edge. The cutting width
strap at the poi nt. Try on the sho u l d be normal to support over
c a m i sole to adj ust the l ength of casting. Open the fold and press
the strap before fi n i s h i n g the back flat. F i l l the cas i n g with e l astic .
edge of the strap and sec u r i n g it
to the cam i sole. Retu rn t h e serger to b i as- h a i rl i ne
setti ngs, and c lose the fi n a l seam
E m be l l ish the center front of the at center back and crotch .
cam isole w ith a ri bbon bow,
w h i c h can be made by loopi n g 10 Tie a decorative bow for the
ri bbon arou nd t h e spind les o f the front of the camisole and trim the
Don't try t o fi n ish l ace o r
serger. Pass the free end a round ri bbon edges w i t h a rol l h e m . ends of the beaded lace.
beh i nd the loops and tie in front. The l ace t h reads are too far
Remove the bow from the apart, patterned a reas a re too
spind les and trim the ends i rreg u l a r for a smooth hem, When sew i ng l ace, ribbon, or
d i agonal l y (1 0). and ri bbons are just too bu l ky other prefi n ished edges, rotate
to rol l wel l . I nstead, flatlock the u pper k n i fe out of position
Press the elastic-ca s i n g a l l owance the raw edge of ri bbon or l ace to remove any danger of
i nto a n S-shaped fold at the top of w ith a narrow cutti ng w idth accidenta l l y tri m m i ng the
the pants, as desc r i bed o n p. 5 2 . and a sma l l stitch lengt h . edge, and stitch as usu a l .
Basics
S ERGER S ETT I N G S
96
F O U R-T H R EAD S EAM
N EE D LES/
LOOPERS
TH READ TENSION F O R L 1 G HTW E I G HT KN ITS
S E R G E R S ETTI N G S
.----
BASIC T H R E E-T H R EAD S EAM
N E E D LES/
TH READ TENSION
LOO PERS
�--
Left needle Omit (for wider
seams, t h read the
left needle and
o m it the right)
!-- --- --
Right need le Garment t h read Normal
S E RG E R S ETT I N G S
[ Differential feed
--- Normal u n l ess fabric puckers
Photo Index 97
TWO-TH R EA D RO L L E D S EAM
N E E D L ES /
LOO PERS
T H R EA D t TENSION
S E RG E R S ETT I N G S
�
Stitch length 2 m m to 2 . 5 m m
l
upper looper with c l ea r nylon
u nder high tension.
TWO-T H R E A D S EAM
F O R J O I N 1 NG LAC E
N E E D L ES /
LOO PERS
Left needle
I TH READ
Omit
_j TENSION
S E R G E R S ETT I N G S
98 Photo Index
F R E N C H S EAM
N E E D LES/
LOOPERS
r TH READ TENSION
t I
Left needle Omit
-
r Right needle Garment th read Normal
S E R G E R SETTI NGS
l- -
Stitch length 2 . S m m to 3 m m
EAS E D OV E R LOC K H E M
N E E D LES/
TH READ TENSION
LOOPERS
rs E RG E R S ETTI N G S
Photo Index 99
I TH READ
BASIC ROL L E D H EM
N E E DLES/
TENSION
LOO PERS
I as two-ply poly
S E R G E R S ETTI NGS
Stitch length 2 m m to 2 . 5 m m
f--
Cutting width Wide
See page 62. --
D ifferential feed Normal u n less fabric puckers
RO L L E D R E C E I VI N G H EM
I N E E D LES/
LOOPERS
T H READ TENSION
I Left needle
--
Omit
--
Right needle Garment th read Normal
D i fferential feed
-- Widest (3mm)
f---
Normal u n less fabric puckers
SERGER S ETTI N G S
MO N O F I LAM E N T H E M
N EE D LES/
TH READ TENSION
LOO P E RS
SERGER S ETT I N G S
S E R G E R S ETTI N G S
\
\ Stitch length Med i u m to long
S E R G E R SETI I N G S
Stitch length 2 . S m m to 3 m m
MOC K H O N G KO N G F I N I S H
N EE D LES/
TH READ TENSION
LOOPERS
S E R G E R S ETII N G S
S E R G E R S ETT I N G S
S E R G E R S ETT I N G S
SERGER S ETI I N G S
D ECO RAT I V E C H A I N I N G
N E E D LES/
T H R EA D TENSION
LOOP E RS
S E R G E R S ETT I N G S
Gathering
See page 54.
Plackets
See page 48.
Gathered Ruffles
See page 83.
B medium-weight, 26, 2 7
See also Knits.
Holding grain, technique for, 49
c of lace edges, 95
of ribbon edges, 95
described, 26
types of, 66
Camisole and tap pants, Flatlocking, decorative, 73- 74 Knives:
instructions for, 90-95 setting chart for, 1 05 bypassing,
Chaining: tips for, 73 by avoiding, 43
decorative, 74 Frogs , of bias tubing, 87 by folding on, 45
setting chart for, 1 05 by making a cutout, 45
at start and end of seam, 1 9 described, 1 1
Corners: replacing, 22
inside, 47 G
mitered, 84 Gathering, technique for, 54
outside,
L
Gathering ratios, testing, 54
one-needle method for, 46-47 Guiding, practice techniques for,
two-needle method for, 46 39-4 1 Lace:
Curves: edge-finishing tip for, 95
inside, 46 stabilizing, with starch, 33
outside, 46
H
two-thread seam for, 98
Cutting width: See also Hems, rolled receiving.
adjusting, 2 1 Hair ornament, instructions for, 8 1 Lint, removing, 23
changing, 40 Hems: Loopers:
defined, 2 1 , 40 blind, 63 described, 1 2 , 1 3
setting chart for, 1 02 tension adjustments for, 20
deep circular, 6 1 and threading options, 1 5
1 10
N 5 T
Needles: Scarf: Tape, bias tricot, 34
R instructions for, 1 9
ripping out, 5 3
Ribbons:
custom, 79
Straps :
of bias tubing, 85
w
edge-fmishing tip for, 95 Waistbands, finish for, 77
of ribbon and lace, 95
Ruffles, gathered, 83 Stretching, remedy for, 1 7
Index 111
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Fine Machine Sewing: Easy Ways to Get the Look of Hand Finishing
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